GARDEN

GUIDE

620 Goddard Avenue NE

(403) 274-4286

www.goldenacre.ca

GArDen Sentre
$.99 SKU 480
GOLDEN ACRE GARDEN GUIDE
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 store information
contents
STORE INFORMATION.........................3-17
ANNUALS...........................................18-34

VEGETABLES........................................40-46
BULBS.................................................47-67
PERENNIALS........................................68-91
HOUSEPLANTS....................................93-105
TREES AND SHRUBS.............................106-133
ROSES.................................................135-142
LAWNS................................................147-149
Print Management
The PRINTMAN, LANDSCAPING....................................150
Calgary XERISCAPING......................................151-153
printman@nucleus.com
SOIL...................................................154
COMPOSTING....................................155
NUTRIENTS.........................................157-161
B IR D S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 6 2 - 1 6 3
PESTS & PROBLEMS.........................164-178
C H RI S TMA S. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7 9 - 1 8 1
Store Information
How tofind us
calgary 620 Goddard Avenue NE
1 Block North from the corner of Edmonton trial and McKnight Blvd.
Phone: (403) 274-4286

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visit our website at www.goldenacre.ca

store map

store information
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 Guarantees

store information
Golden Acre Garden Sentres Guarantee and Return Policy

GUARANTEE POLICY
1. Perennials are guaranteed up to the first frost of the season
2. Tropicals are guaranteed for 30 days from the date of purchase
3. Trees, Shrubs, Evergreens, and Shrub Roses are guaranteed for one (1) year from the date of purchase
□ A Replacement Certificate will be provided for returned items
4. Non-plant hard goods are guaranteed for 30 days from the date of purchase

Items Not Guaranteed

• Annual Plants
• Seasonal Flowering Tropicals
• Tea Roses
• Cedars
• Holiday Merchandise

RETURN POLICY
1. Customer must have a valid receipt for any returned items (no exceptions)
2. Returns less than $5 will receive Cash Back
3. Returns greater than $5 will receive Golden Acre Gift Card
4. Purchases with a Replacement Certificate are final sale and not guaranteed
5. Items not deemed resalable will not be returned
6. Golden Acre reserves the right to deny any returned merchandise if it is deemed to be misused, abused, or carelessly
treated

Delivery Service
• Golden Acre Garden Sentres is glad to deliver any of your large purchases such as trees, shrubs, house plants, bird baths,
fountains, or other concrete products.
• A general delivery service charge applies to most deliveries, consisting of any number of items, which are delivered to the same
address within the city limits.
• A higher delivery service charge applies to patio furniture and fountains which are leveled and set up upon delivery to the same
address.
• Deliveries cannot be specified to arrive in the morning or afternoon on a specific day. We will guarantee that your delivery will
arrive between 9am-9pm on the specified day of delivery.
• Due to the seasonality of our business the frequency of our delivery service varies periodically. Please check with sales staff
you for specific delivery days.
• Special instructions on where delivery items can be placed in your yard are to be indicated on the delivery form at the time of
purchase.

It is not necessary that you be home when your delivery arrives. Your delivery items will be placed in your yard as you requested
at the time of delivery. If no special instructions were given at the time of purchase our driver will place your delivery items in the
most appropriate available location.

• Occasional problems do occur with deliveries. Please notify Golden Acre within 24 hours if you experience any difficulties with
your delivered items.
 ccht/lanta Certification
Store Information

Golden Acre Garden Sentres Ltd. Calgary is proud

to announce that we have the greatest number of
Canadian Nursery Trades Association/ certified
Horticultural Technicians in Western Canada. In
order to serve you better and to fulfill our mission
statement every year staff members train for the
nationally recognized CNTA program. Each of our
staff members who has taken and passed this course
underwent rigorous testing in both practical and
applied knowledge across a wide range of subjects
Aaron Barb
such as plant identification and care, pest and plant
pathology, fertilizing, and so on. All our staff members
who have attained this high level of horticultural
training are listed to the left . Ask them any question
you may have; their knowledge base is broad and if
they do not know the answer they will know who does.
Congratulations to all who have acheived this honour!

Carol Donna

Jeanette Kelly

Ken Liana

Nancy Pavlina
 store information
GiftS & At Golden Acre Garden Sentre and Gifts you can find

Home
everything you need for the perfect christmas. And that
includes the perfect gift.
In our Giftware Department we carry a variety of gifts
ideal for both the home and garden. We have racks of

DeCor
stunning artwork, realistic artificial flowers, decorative
containers, hand & body lotion, and anything else you
might need (or want).
Our stock is constantly changing, and we are always
receiving new and unique giftware. Come in and see
our amazing selection for yourself.


 working with
our communities
Store Information

Calgary Children’s Foundation

The Calgary Children’s Foundation has always been one of Golden Acre’s favorite charities. We have supported
the Children’s Foundation for over 20 years and donated over $300,000. Wade Hartwell, founder of Golden Acre,
is even a director of the foundation. During May, designated Arbor Month, we donate $1.00 from every tree sold
at both the North and South Calgary store to the Calgary Children’s Foundation. At Christmas we hold a Black Tie
Gala from which all proceeds of a silent auction go to the Children’s Foundation. Also during Christmas we donate
$1.00 from every live tree and $5.00 from every everlasting tree over six feet tall that we sell.

10
Olds College Foundation
Golden Acre is a big supporter of the Olds College Foundation, improving education in our industry and agriculture
in Alberta. Projects we have worked on are the development of an indoor teaching centre and the Olds College
Arboretum.

Our Community
In addition to these programs, Golden Acre assists literally hundreds of community organizations in a number of
ways. We are always willing to help schools through donations of plant material for educational purposes, goods
for fundraising raffles, and beautification projects. Golden Acre helps out more than 400 organizations includ-
ing churches, sports teams, community associations, and performing arts groups by donating items for raffles,
money raising activities, and so on. For the past few years we have been proud to support the Dean House, Fort
Calgary, and the Okotoks Community Center by supplying plants for their extensive gardens. Finally, and perhaps
most importantly, Golden Acre is committed to education. We assist schools in fundraising and by supplying plant
material for learning purposes.
store information
 landscape consultant
Store Information

Dan Sinclair
If you have landscaping in mind for this year and don't know where to begin, Golden Acre offers a landscaping
consulting service. Our consultant, Dan Sinclair, has been in the horticultural industry for over 30 years. For a
fee he will offer recommendations regarding placement of structutral elements, and planting advice. He will also
make suggestions regarding evergreens, colorful trees and shrubs, perennial flowers, shade planting, seasonal
flowering, annuals, and ground covers.

Dan can help with trouble-shooting your garden. If you have any questions about pests, problems, or diseases
he will be able to assist you from an Integrated Pest Management point of view. He is also available to give advice
on pruning and tree care.

to arrange an appointment call:

274-4286

12
CALGAry’S
GArDen Center
SinCe 1967

GArDen Sentre
store information
 alberta plant hardiness
zone map
Store Information

16
local
horticultural SOCIETIES

store information
We at Golden Acre Garden Sentres Ltd. are proud of
the diversity and enthusiasm of local gardening groups
and are aware of the benefits they bring to the horticul-
tural milieu of Calgary and southern Alberta. They are
an exceptional group of people involved in exceptional

WEBSITES
groups! Above all they love gardening and growing by
their own hands and for this they should be recognized.
To help promote the individual groups and to encourage
the diversity of our horticultural community we would like
to try to mention most of the societies active in southern
Alberta. If you belong to a horticultural society that you
think should be listed here, please give us a call at (403) Calgary Horticultural Society
274-4286. 208-50 Ave S. Calgary, AB
403-287-3469 Fax: 403-287-6986
E-mail: office@calhort.org
http://www.calhort.org

Calgary Rock and Alpine Garden Society

http://www.crags.ca

Calgary Rose Society

E-mail: info@calgaryrosesociety.com
http://www.calgaryrosesociety.com

Foothill Orchid Society

E-mail: foothillsorchidsociety@shaw.ca
http://members.shaw.ca/foothillsorchidsociety/ 17
Stampede City African Violet Society
E-mail: violets@telus.net
http://www3.telus.net/scavs

McKenzie Towne Gardening Club

http://www.mckenzietownegardeningclub.com

LANTA
Landscape Alberta Nursery Trades Association,
10215 - 176 Street, Edmonton, Alberta T5S 1M1
Phone: (780) 489-1991, Fax: (780) 444-2152
http://www.landscape-alberta.com

Petals Garden Club - Okotoks, AB

http://www.petalsgc.shawbiz.ca/petals/

Morinville Garden Club - Morinville, AB

http://www.petalsgc.shawbiz.ca/mgc/
ANNUALS
annuals your questions
Q: What is that white powdery substance on the top of zone when the soil is dry several inches down, depending
my begonia? Rose? Impatiens leaf? on the pot size.
A: Powdery mildew is the name of this fungus that attacks the
upper leaf structure of begonias, roses, chrysanthemums, Q: What annuals bloom late in the season?
and impatiens. It starts out as white spotting which, A: Good annuals for late summer flowering are zinnia,
with time, forms a white mass on the leaf. This is due to cosmos, cleome,salvia, sunflower, and morning glory.
high humidity coupled with poor air circulation around a
stressed plant. Watch your planting space so plants are
not so close as to be overcrowded when mature; Q: My plants are so leggy, long, and spindly. What
avoid watering at night. When powdery mildew can I do?
is at it’s beginning phase, A: Cut or pinch the soft tissue of the plant’s
spray with a fungicide main stem, removing up to 50% of the
like Funginex, following overall plant’s height. Increase the light
directions on the bottle. availability if inside the house. Fertilize
the plant with an all-purpose fertilizer
Q: My peppers have following the instructions for that
little tiny green bugs on particular fertilizer.
the tips of the plant. What
are they? Q: I have what look like
A: These bugs are called little white flies covering the
aphids, sucking insects underneath leaves of my fuchsia.
which are born pregnant. What are they?
Unfortunately, peppers A: As the description of the insect
and aphids seem to go implies, they are known as white
hand-in-hand. The best flies. From egg, larvae, pupae to
control is to start out with adult, they reside on the underneath
a clean, weed-free growing portion of the leaf. If a small
area. Secondly, during the infestation is present, even a quick
growing phase, spray with manual wiping off will control the
18 Safers Soap or Trounce problem. Total removal of the leaf
every two weeks for a or leaves during the egg,
constant control. Ensure larvae and pupae stage is
that you rinse the spray off the easiest. Yellow sticky
the plant the following day strips attract and catch the
or damage may occur over adult. Use of the chemicals such as
time. Trounce or Safers Soap as per label
directions coupled with the above
Q: My tomatoes and/or manual control may
peppers have a sunken work. Many beneficial
soft black spot on their bottom. insects like lacewings
What is it? and ladybugs feed on
A: Blossom end rot is the name of whiteflies. Care must be taken
this problem, brought on by one or a when applying pesticides so as
combination of these factors: not to inadvertently destroy good
-Insufficient calcuim in the soil insects.
-Excess nitrogen, magnesium, potassium, or
sodium has been applied as a fertilizer. This interferes Q: I have a fuchsia that has little berry-
with calcium absorption. like structures forming on the tips where
-Very wet or very dry conditions interfere with the the flowers used to be.What are they?
uptake of calcium. A: The berry-like structures are the seed pods, which form
To reduce the possibility of blossom end rot maintain soil pH after the flowers were pollinated. It would be best to remove
around 6.5. The lime in our soil adds calcium but it cannot the pods to send all the energy into more blooms. Pinching
be absorbed by the plant unless the soil is less alkali. or cutting off can be easily done.
Watering with rain water will help as it is neither alkali nor
acidic and adding sulphur to the soil will reduce alkalinity. Q: I planted my annuals yesterday during the day; today,
Avoid drought stress and wide fluctuations in soil moisture they are like limp little noodles. What’s happening?
by mulching or watering consistently. To avoid moisture A: This may be transplant shock. Transplanting on a cool
stress apply enough water to wet all the soil in the root or overcast day, avoiding the hottest part of the day to do
the actual planting would be less stressful on the young
plants. Watering the plants thoroughly with a final soaking
in with a high phosphorous fertilizer would cushion the
roots protecting them from their new surroundings.
Q: I woke up this morning to find white, droopy leaves
on my petunias. What’s wrong?
A: Frost may have touched them; typically a papery, thin,
white leaf structure is synonymous with frost damage. If the
whole plant has toppled over it may be too late to revive. If
it’s just the leaves it will regrow but protect the plant from
future frost damage by using a frost blanket. This sort of
damage may also be from too much heat or too little soil
moisture; be sure to evaluate the situation.
Q: How do I prepare my soil for planting annuals?
A: In the spring, before planting, turn the soil of your beds
to a depth of 6-12” (15-30 cm). Loosen heavy clay soil by
adding peat moss and/or compost and zeolite. You can
also add slow release fertilizer like Vigoro Pink (8-12-16).
Rake bed smooth and you’re done!
Q: How do I look after my plants before I plant them?
A: If you are unable to plant your bedding out plants the
day you purchase them make sure to water them well and
place in the shade. If frost is expected, keep indoors in a
well-lit location and water as needed. The ideal planting
time would be a cloudy evening but if you have to plant on
a sunny day water immediately after planting. Also, be sure
to use a rooting fertilizer like Plant-prod 10-52-10 or Plant
Start 5-15-5.
Q: How often should I water my hanging baskets?
A: There are a number of factors contributing to the rapid
drying of hanging baskets – size of the pot, the exposure
to wind, air, and sun, and the tendency of hanging plants
to get root bound. Because of this, hot days can be a
real problem; you may have to water 2-3 times per day.
Normally simply water when the soil is dry to the touch.
There are water-conserving soils available which can help
reduce the amount of watering. The addition of zeolite can
also help as it will lock in moisture. Both of these products
only help the soil conserve moisture; on hot days you will
still need to check the soil often.
Q: When is the best time to water plants?
A: Ideally watering should be done in the early morning.
This lets the plants soak up water thoroughly. Watering in
the afternoon, especially during hot weather, can cause
damage to the plant leaves. Water can sit in drops on the
leaves, effectively acting like little magnifying glasses and
burning the plant tissue. Watering late in the day allows
the water to sit over night and can promote disease and/or
fungus problems like powdery mildew.
Q: What is the best date to plant my annuals?
A: In the Calgary area we have a notoriously unpredictable
spring. Because of this we generally recommend that you
plant your annuals on the first weekend of June. If you
purchase them before this date please follow the above
instrucions regarding keeping bedding out plants alive in
their containers.
ANNUALS
Q: How much fertilizer should I use on my flowers and
how often should I fertilize?
A: This depends on the type of fertilizer you are using. As
a general rule liquid/water soluble fertilizer can be applied
every 2-4 weeks. There are specific annual fertilizers
available that encourage blooming. Look for a high middle
number (15-30-15 or 10-52-10). You can also use Smartcote
slow-release granular fertilizers designed for annuals and
hanging baskets. Simply turn fertilizer into the soil when
you plant. Other granulated fertilizers are available and
can last up to 3 months, though occasional supplemental
fertilizing with a water-soluble fertilizer is recommended.
Q: What does deadheading mean and is it important?
A: Deadheading is the process of removing spent flower
heads from the plant to encourage further blooming. The
seeds would form where the dead flowers were if they were
pollinated and the plant would focus most of its energy
towards seed production instead of flowering. Removing
dead flowers also helps reduce the risk of diseases such
as Botrytis.
Q: What would be the best annuals for cut-flower
gardening?
A: The most popular flowers for cut-flower gardening are
as follows: snapdragon, calendula, cosmos, gypsophila,
sweet pea, zinnia, celosia, aster, sweet william, sunflower,
and bachelor’s button. Cut the flowers early in the morning
and immediately place in lukewarm water. Cut off all the
leaves below the waterline to reduce bacterial and odour
problems. 19
Q: I heard on the news that we are going to have a
frost and I have planted my annuals already. What can
I do?
A: The best defense against frost on tender annuals is
waiting to plant until either the May long weekend or the first
weekend of June. However, we do live in Calgary and the
weather can be quite unpredictable. Covering your annuals
with blankets or frost protection products like Remay fabric
will certainly help. Obviously, if it is in a container bring it
indoors for the night. Take care not to use plastic coverings
if you can help it. If it is unavoidable definitely keep the
plastic from touching the leaves of the plant.
ANNUALS
annual favorites
We would like to share with you some of our favorite Impatiens
tried and true plants that work well or are very popular in The bright green, shiny leaves of this plant are attractive
Calgary every year. indoors as a houseplant or outdoors as an easy to grow
Alyssum annual. This 8-10 in.(20-25cm) tall annual produces an
This annual flowers from early spring until the first frost, abundance of salmon, pink, white, or red flowers. Plant
making it one of the most useful border plants. Masses of in partial or full shade, spacing the seedlings 18 in.(45cm)
dainty, fragrant blue, pink, or white flowers are produced on apart and keep the soil evenly moist.
2 in.(5cm) plants. This annual does well in sun or partial
shade. Space alyssum 6-8 in.(15-20cm) apart to create Lobelia
a carpet of color. There are two basic varieties of lobelia: trailing and upright.
The trailing variety looks especially good cascading over
Coleus the edge of a planter box. This profusely blooming an-
This rapidly growing foliage plant can also be used as a nual grows 6 in.(15cm) upright and trailing 12 in.(30cm).
houseplant. Pinch back the terminal buds of a 12-14 in. Lobelia produces a mass of dainty blue, purple, white, or
(30-35cm) tall plant to produce a very full multicolored red colored flowers.
accent plant for shady areas.
Marigold
Dracaena Spike Available in numerous heights, each variety produces
These vase-shaped foliage plants have grass-like leaves a wide range of colors from bright yellow and orange to
that cascade as the plants mature. Dracaena makes a bronze and reddish-brown. Plant marigolds in full sun,
great centerpiece in containers or formal flowerbeds. spacing the seedlings 12-14 in.(30-35cm) apart.

Fuchsia
Fuchsias are weeping woody plants grown here as annu-
als. These attractive plants have large glossy leaves and
produce exquisite bell-shaped single or double-pink flowers
in purple, mauve, pink, or red. They are often bi-colored
with combinations of these colors with white centers.
20 Place these hanging baskets in partially shaded locations
and keep them consistently moist throughout the growing
season. These plants can be over-wintered indoors.
Nasturtium
Nasturtiums can be planted in either flower beds or hanging
containers. They grow in a mounded fashion with round,
smooth leaves. Dwarf varieties are 8-10 in.(15-25cm) tall
while taller varieties can grow to 24 in. (60cm) tall. The
2 in.(5cm) white blossoms come in white, salmon, yellow,
orange, or red colors and have a strong fragrance. Plant
this annual in full sun or partial shade, spacing the seedlings
8 in.(20cm) apart.

Alyssum Dracaena Spike Fuchsia Marigold

Coleus

Impatiens Nasturtium

Lobelia
 annual favorites
Osteospermum
Also known as African daisy, this tender plant produces
masses of large 4 in.(10cm) flowers which are excel-
lent for cutting. White, yellow, salmon, and rose colored
flowers are produced on a 12 in.(30cm) tall plant. Plant
osteospermum in a sunny location in dry soil and space
6in.(15 cm) apart.
Pansy
Pansies are a flexible annual/perennial that can be found
in a wide assortment of colors. Pansies are extremely frost
tolerant so they do well in the early spring and with atten-
tion can bloom well into the fall. They thrive in cool moist
soil. Sunnier locations will produce more flowers, although
hot positions are not recommended. Pansies are good for
borders, beds, edging, and container gardening. Do not
allow them to dry out in hot weather.
Petunia
Petunias are the most popular annual because they require
little care to produce masses of flowers all summer long.
Petunias produce 2-4 in.(5-10cm) wide, trumpet shaped
flowers and are available in an endless number of colors.
The large, showy flowers and the low maintenance required
to keep them growing and producing flowers makes the
Grandiflora petunias the most popular. Multiflora petunias
have smaller flowers but make up for it in the number of
flowers they produce. Multiflora petunias are available
in more colors and shapes than the Grandifloras – star-
shaped and striped varieties are available.
Pansy
Osteospermum Snapdragon
ANNUALS
Portulaca
Portulaca grandiflora consists of bright flowers that look
like tiny roses. Portulaca oleracea is a single petal trail-
ing plant on a woodier stem used for enhancing hanging
baskets and containers. Portulaca does require a hot and
sunny location.
Snapdragon
This familiar plant creates large masses of color in any
flower bed. Each flower is like a colorful butterfly, making
them excellent for cutting. Large heads of lightly fragrant
flowers are produced on tall, medium, or dwarf snapdragon
varieties. Tall varieties grow 24-30 in.(60-75cm) tall re-
quiring support and produce white, red, yellow, orange,
bronze, cherry, pink, and rose flowers. Medium varieties
grow 18-24 in.(45-60cm) tall and produce scarlet, crimson,
yellow, orange, white, pink, cherry, or mixed colored flow-
ers. Dwarf varieties grow 6-8 in.(15-20cm) tall and come
in mixed colors. Snapdragons are heat-tolerant and should
be planted in rich, well-drained soil.
21
Petunia Portulaca
 annuals
container gardening
ANNUALS

In recent years container gardening has become very
popular mainly because this sort of gardening is both at-
tractive and convenient. Containerized gardening is perfect
for those with little or no garden space such as people living
in apartments, condominiums, or small lots. This form of
gardening is appealing to anyone with little time to spend
cultivating, weeding, fertilizing, etc. Even though the same
or more attention must be paid to container gardens, it
takes less time and some jobs (like weeding) are greatly
reduced. Gardening this way is more economical in the
long run; you will require less water, less soil, less fertilizer,
and so on. Container gardening is ideally suited for those
with limited mobility like the elderly or disabled who wish
to grow a beautiful garden or their own vegetables but
are unable to do so in the conventional manner. Finally,
container gardens simply look good and many gardeners
use them to supplement their own garden beds.
Containers
There are a wide variety of container types available for
planting. What must be remembered is that they all require
decent drainage holes (if this is impossible then a layer of
rocks or Styrofoam peanuts at the bottom of the pot will
work if a layer of fiberglass screen or landscape fabric
is added on to prevent soil and plant roots from growing
amongst the rocks) or the soil may retain water and roots
can begin to rot. Drainage can be increased by raising
the pot off the ground an inch or so with 'feet', wedges, or
blocks. It is also important to keep in mind that the top of the
22 plant is usually proportionate to the roots. Therefore, large
tomatoes require a large pot otherwise they can become
root-bound and will require constant watering.
Wood is a very popular form of container because it is
attractive, fairly lightweight, and blends in well with most
homes. Woods like cedar provide some resistance to rot
and are usually the best to use. Try to stay away from pres-
sure treated woods or railroad ties as they emit chemicals
that are harmful to plants.
Clay, terracotta, and ceramic containers are often used.
Indeed, few things look nicer than an herb garden or an-
nual arrangement in a terracotta pot. The main drawback of
ceramic is that it wicks water away from the soil because it
is porous. As a result they may have to be watered more of-
ten. Always bring ceramic pots indoors or store somewhere
dry during in the fall; our winter weather with its cycles of
freezing and thawing can quickly destroy these pots.
Another commonly used type of container is plastic. These
are light, inexpensive, and usually have pre-drilled drain-
age holes (and if they don't it is easy to make your own).
Be careful not to use dark or black pots for sun-loving
plants. The dark color absorbs light and heats the soil,
increasing water evaporation.
If a permanent location has been selected, large containers
made of concrete, iron, or metal can be used but always
make sure they have proper drainage. A similar look can
be achieved with lightweight foam pots.
Soil
Generally, it is not a good idea to use garden soil or top soil
for containers planting. The high clay content of garden soil

DESIGN LAYOUT OF A MIXED PLANTER

Center Area

Middle Area

Edge Area

Center Area Middle Area Edge Area

Plant the tallest or largest
plants to act as the focal point
of your planter. Use one or
two plants here. You can try
canna lilies, tall marigolds,
or the traditional dracaena
spikes.
Use lots of colorful plants with
a ‘mounding’ growth habit to
fill your container and provide
early color. Try geraniums,
pansies, petunias or any num-
ber of things. Be creative!
Choose at least two differemt
trailing plants to add texture
and to soften the look of the
container. Try bacopa, trailing
lobelia or any plants with a
trailing habit.
will not provide adequate drainage and is not conducive
to root growth. If allowed to dry out, garden soil separates
from the side of the pot and is hard to re-wet. Container
plants should be grown in a light, airy soil capable of hold-
ing water and nutrients while at the same time draining
easily. It is best to use a soil-less potting mix made up of
peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite. There are even some
mixes that are made specifically for container garden with
moisture-retaining crystals and/or wetting agents. Adding
charcoal will help to sweeten the soil. Finally, make sure
the soil is only filled up to within two inches of the top of
the pot to allow space for watering.
Fertilizer
Container-grown plants require a lot of water over the
summer and this will flush out fertilizer quite quickly. This
can be counteracted by mixing a slow-release fertilizer into
the soil before planting. A consistent fertilizing program
every two to four weeks as per the fertilizer instructions
will keep the plants fed if a slow-release fertilizer is not an
option. Make sure you do not over-fertilize. The salts and
nitrogen in fertilizer can easily burn tender roots.
Water
Careful watering is perhaps the single-most important
aspect of container gardening. In a normal summer con-
tainers dry out faster than the ground (hanging baskets dry
out even faster) because they are exposed to the drying
effects of the wind and the sun. Containers will require
watering at least two to three times per week during a
normal season. In wet periods water less or the roots will
sit in water. In dry times water more often, up to twice a
day for some plants. To tell if watering is required watch for
HELPFUL DESIGN TIPS
Foliage plants provide colour, leaf shape and texture.
Use plenty of them.
Don’t be afraid to cutback or trim faster growing plants
that may ruin your original design.
Mix Zeolite into the soil when planting. Zeolite will help
the soil retain water.
Use more plants than seem to be needed. Containers
will look better and bloom longer.
Start with flowers that are just about ready to flower.
Use a variety of plant sizes.
Water often! Containers tend to dry out quicker than
you might expect.
Use colourful foliage plants (like coleus) to ‘echo’ the
colours of the flowers in your container.
Add flowers of different shapes in your container to
add interest.
wilting or test the top inch or so of the soil. If it is dry then
ANNUALS
water until water flows out of the drainage holes. Some
containers need to be watched more closely like terracotta,
smaller pots, dark pots, and hanging baskets.
Planting
There are a few general tips for planting container gar-
dens. For more specific information please refer to that
particular section in the guide. Do not crowd too many
plants together since they will require room to establish
themselves. Remove dead flowers and prune back leggy
plants to encourage bushy growth. Watch for insects
and diseases on your container plants as the plants are
stressed. Finally, be sure to stake climbing plants or rig
up a trellis. If this is done use a very heavy pot or anchor
the container to prevent it from blowing over.
Annuals
Annuals, lasting only a single season, are the most com-
mon plants found in containers. Flowers and foliage plants
can be mixed or all of the same type. It is important when
planting a mixed container that all plants have the same
light requirements. Growth habits must also be consid-
ered; place tall plants like dracaena or canna lilies near
the back or center and trailers and low-growing plants like
petunias or bacopa on the outside of the planter. The fol-
lowing is a list of light requirements for commonly grown
annuals. For further information on these plants refer to
the annuals tables. NOTE: for Supertunias it is vital that
they be watered daily.
23
Sun
Amaranthus Geranium - Ivy Minalobata
Asarina Gomphrena Petunia
Cobaea
Datura
Hyacinth Bean
Sunflower - Dwarf
Snapdragons
Lavatera
Marigolds Eccremocarpus Verbena
Sun / Part Shade
Alyssum Rhodochiton Bush Lantana
Bacopa Lobelia Scaevola
Calibrachoa Nasturtium Schizanthus
Dracaena Nemesia Stock
Fuchsia Sweet Potato Vine Nicotiana
Godetia Petunias Thunbergia
Phlox Kennilworth Ivy Vinca
Shade
Coleus Asparagus Fern Pansy
Begonia Impateins Viola
Browallia Mimulus
 annuals
container gardening
ANNUALS

Vegetables
Planting vegetables in container gardens can be fairly
simple, convenient, and rewarding if a few steps are
followed, though productivity will vary depending on variety
and season. Vegetables require a sunny location and a
large container. Root vegetables need a lot of soil while
large plants like tomatoes require a lot of space for root
development and to ensure that the soil does not dry out
too quickly. The following is a list of vegetables that can
do well in containers arranged by growth habit. Further
information can be found in the vegetable section of this
guide.

Climbing / Trailing
Cucumber Summer Squash Peas
Muskmelon Pole Beans

Root Vegetables
Beets Green Onions Radishes
Carrots Parsnips Turnips

Leaf Vegetables
Perennials, Shrubs, Bulbs, etc.
Cabbage Lettuce Generally plants do not do well when left in containers over
Kale Swiss Chard the winter in Calgary. Our fluctuating winter temperatures
Others are the main problem; the soil freezes and thaws, either
encouraging growth and then killing it or destroying roots
Bush Beans Tomatoes (dwarf and determinate)
and bulbs. Soil temperatures in the ground are much more
Bush Peas Eggplant Peppers (hot and sweet)
consistent, protecting roots from winter damage.
24 Summer-Flowering Bulbs
Spring-flowering bulbs like tulips and daffodils rarely However, there are exceptions to this rule. Larger
survive a winter in a container. However, summer-flowering containers with more soil will shelter plant roots. Adding an
bulbs, corms, tubers, etc. do very well in large containers insulating material like Styrofoam lining before planting will
for the growing season. Try dahlias (especially dwarf also help. Only very hardy native species like potentillas
varieties), begonias, glads and specialty bulbs such as do well. It is important to water the plants in the containers
the climbing gloriosa lily. well before the ground freezes in the fall. This ensures
moisture during warm, dry winter periods. Even following
Herbs this method will not guarantee that plants will overwinter.
A very popular container-grown crop, fresh herbs can be The end result is completely dependent on severity of the
grown close to the back door for convenient harvest as weather, the plants' location, the type of container used,
long as there is sufficent light. Please see the herb section the size of the plant, etc.
for details.

Sun
Anise Oregano Basil
Feverfew Rosemary Borage
Horseradish Sage Chives
Hyssop Savory Dill
Lavender Thyme - lemon Fennel
Verbena - Lemon Marjoram
Sun / Part Shade
Bay/Laurel Cilantro Rue
Caraway Comfrey Sorrel
Garlic Catmint/Catnip Tarragon
Chamomile Thyme - Common Lemon Balm
Shade
Chervil Mint Parsely Sweet Woodruff
 annuals
geraniums

Geraniums are one of the most popular and commonly
used bedding out plants. Geraniums are available in a
wide range of colors from red, scarlet, pink, coral, salmon,
peach, orange, lavender, to white. Geraniums are used in
many areas in the yard, including flower beds, pots, plant-
ers, and hanging baskets.
Types
1. Zonal - Pelargonium hortorum
Aptly named because of red zones on leaves.
2. Martha Washington - Pelargonium domesticum
Plant has fancy flowers.
3. Ivy - Pelargonium peltatum
Trailing plant is suitable for hanging baskets.
Care & Culture
Most geraniums prefer full sunlight in a west or south
location, needing approximately 6 hrs. of sun each day.
Martha Washington geraniums prefer partial shade in a
north or east orientation. For watering, keep the soil moist
until the roots are established, after which geraniums are
considered to be semi-drought tolerant. Fertilize every
week or two during the growing season with a complete
fertilizer such as 20-30-20.
ANNUALS
1. It may be treated like an indoor house plant, giving it
as much light as possible in a south or west window. If the
plant gets stretched out or spindly in winter, prune it back
by pinching off the large, lanky leaves and long stems.
2. The second method involves lifting the plant out of the
pot, shaking off as much soil as possible, and storing it in
a cool, dark box. Keep the roots covered with a moist cloth
which maintains the plant’s life at a bare minimum.
3. Another method is also shaking the soil off the root
system and then storing the plant upside down in a garage
or other area where the temperature hovers just above
freezing. With the last two methods plant in pots in early
March and water with a high phosphorus fertilizer like
Plant-prod 10-52-10 to initiate root growth. With all of the
above three methods, plant the geraniums outside at the
end of May when the danger of frost is over.

Overwintering
Geraniums may be kept from year to year, as they are
technically perennials grown as annuals. There are 3
methods of overwintering geraniums:
25

annuals geranium cuttings

Preparation Fertilizer
Take cuttings, applying rooting hormone on unrooted Can be applied two weeks after planting. Fertilize with 10-
cuttings will aid in rooting uniformly. Even the smallest 52-10, and as always read the label.
excess of hormones may cause severe damage use
sparingly. Ventilation
To prevent Botrytis keep humid air moving using a
Air Temperature horizontal fan. Keep leaves dry at night.
Temperatures of 15-20 degrees Celsius should be
maintained during rooting. Ideally the cutting should receive Fungicides
bottom heat to keep the planting media temperature at Use No Damp two weeks after planting or when rooting
20-22 degrees Celsius. occurs. Cleaning off old leaves and dis-budding will also
control disease. When rooted out put into 4” or 6” pots in
Watering Cuttings professional planting mix.
Moisten just enough to prevent wilting. Excessive misting
can leach nutrients from the cuttings or create conditions for
Botrytis infections to develop. There is a fine line between
wet and dry. Change duration of misting. Short bursts are
better. Stop misting after six days. Shading for first couple
of weeks helps The cuttings can receive full sunlight as
soon as they develop roots.
 bedding out plants all annuals listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability
ANNUALS
Height/ Uses Flower Sun ™ Indoor/ Seed/
Names Features
Spread Color(s) Part Shade » Outdoor Trans-
Shade ˜ Seed Date plant

AFRICAN DAISY 12/8 in. beds, borders, orange, Dark eyed, daisy flowers; » Mar. 20-28 seed
Dimorphotheca species 30/20 cm mass planting yellow also called cape marigold May 1-10 trans.
AGERATUM 6/10 in. borders, beds blue,red, Compact mound of ™ Feb. 20-28 seed,
(Floss Flower) 15/25 cm mass planting white fluffy flower clusters May 1-15 trans.
ALYSSUM, SWEET 8/10 in. border, purple, Compact mound of dainty ™–» Mar. 15-30 seed,
Lobularia maritima 20/25 cm edging plant white flowers, excellent edging plant May 1-10 trans.
ASTER, CHINA 12/8 in. beds, borders, purple, Late summer blooming; flower ™ Mar. 15-30 seed,
Callistephus chinensis 30/20 cm mass planting pink forms are daisy and pompom May 1-10 trans.
BABY’S BREATH 12/12 in. beds, borders, white, Profuse sprays of ™ May 15-30 seed,
Gysophila elegans 30/30 cm bouquets pink dainty delicate flowers May 1-10 trans.
BEGONIA, WAX 8/6 in. beds, borders, red, pink, Colorful clusters of flowers; ˜ Feb. 1-28 seed,
Begonia semperflorens 20/15 cm planters white fleshy leaves and fibrous roots n/a trans.
BEGONIA, TUBEROUS 14/12 in. planters, pots, red, pink, Large showy double flowers; ˜ n/a trans-
Begonia tuberhybrida 35/30 cm specimen yellow plant tuberous root after last frost n/a plant
BELLS OF IRELAND 24/12 in. borders, green, & Tiny white flowers in green bells; ™ Mar. 1-15 seed
Moluccella laevis 60/30 cm cut flowers white square stems, toothed leaves Apr. 20-30
BRACHYCOME 10/10 in. planters, pots, purple, Daisy-like flowers are ™ Mar. 1-15 seed
(Swan River Daisy) 25/25 cm hanging baskets gold eye suitable in all containers May 1-15 trans.
BROWALLIA 14/12 in. planters, pots, violet Trumpet-shaped blossoms; ˜ Feb. 20-28 seed,
Browallia speciosa 35/30 cm hanging baskets likes sheltered, shaded situation May 1-15 trans.
CARNATION 12/8 in. beds, borders, various Strong stemmed, ™ Jan. 1-15 trans-
Dianthus caryophyllus 30/20 cm cut flowers mixed fragrant flowers n/a plant
CELOSIA 12/6 in. beds, borders, various Feathery, plumed, or crested, ™ Apr. 20-30 trans-
(Cockscomb) 30/15 cm planters mixed comb-like large flowers n/a plant
CENTAUREA 18/10 in. beds, borders, true blue, True blue flowers readily reseed ™ Feb. 15 seed
(Bachelor’s Button) 45/25 cm mass planting pink also called cornflower Apr. 15
COLEUS 18/10 in. beds, borders, colored Combo. of multi-colored leaves, ˜ Mar. 1-15 seed,
Coleus x hybridus 45/25 cm planters foliage also called flame nettle n/a trans.
26 COSMOS 36/24 in. background pink Tall plant with feathery foliage, ™ Apr. 1-10 seed,
Cosmos bipinnatus 90/60 cm of border easily grown from seed May 10-20 trans.
DAHLIA 14/10 in. beds, pots, various Late summer blooming; ™ Mar. 10-20 seed,
Dahlia pinnata 35/25 cm borders mixed tuberous root May 10-20 trans.
DATURA 4/2 ft. back of border white, Exotic plant, large trumpet ™ Mar. 10-20 seed,
Datura pinnata 1/.5 m specimen in pot yellow flowers also called thorn apple n/a trans.
DIANTHUS-China Pink 12/8 in. beds, borders, red, pink, Fragrant fringed flowers similar ™ Mar. 1-10 seed,
Dianthus chinensis 30/20 cm mass planting white to carnations or sweet william n/a trans.
DRACAENA SPIKES 24/24 in. planters, pots, foliage Rosette of sword shaped leaves; ™–» n/a trans-
Cordyline indivisa 60/60 cm specimen plant plant in center of container n/a plant
African Daisy Dahlia Begonia Celosia Datura

Cosmos Dianthus Ageratum

all annuals listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability bedding out plants

ANNUALS
Height/ Uses Flower Sun ™ Indoor/ Seed/
Names Features Trans-
Spread Color(s) Part Shade » Outdoor
Shade ˜ Seed Date plant

DUSTY MILLER 12/8 in. border, silvery Colored foliage plant ™ Feb. 1-10 seed,
Centaurea cineraria 30/20 cm edging plant foliage with hairy, divided leaves n/a trans.
GAZANIA 12/12 in. beds, borders, yellow, Similar to African daisy; ™ Feb. 10-20 seed,
Gazania splendens 30/30 cm planters orange also called treasure flower n/a trans.
GERANIUM-Pelargonium 20/20 in. planters, beds, pots red, pink, 4 types: zonal, ivy, seed ™–» Jan. 10-15 seed,
hortor-domestic-paltatum 50/50 cm hanging baskets white or Martha Washington n/a trans.
GODETIA/CLARKIA 18/12 in. beds, borders, red, pink, Showy, satiny, ™–» Apr. 10-20 seed,
Satin Flower 45/30 cm mass planting white cup-like blossoms May 10-20 trans.
IMPATIENS 10/10 in. planters, borders, red, pink, Succulent stems, spur flowers; ˜ Feb 15-20 seed,
(Garden Balsam) 25/25 cm hanging baskets white for sheltered, shaded sites n/a trans.
KALE-Ornamental 16/16 in. beds, borders, pink &/or Colorful rosette of foliage; edible, ™ Apr. 10-20 seed,
Brassica oleracea 40/40 cm specimen white color shows in cool temp. in Sept. May 1-10 trans.
LANTANA 18/18 in. specimen orange, Place outside after last frost; ™–» n/a trans-
Lantana camara 45/45 cm in container yellow does well in hot, dry area n/a plant
LAVATERA 36/24 in. back of border, pink, Large, showy, cup-like flowers; ™ Apr. 1-10 seed,
Lavatera trimestris 90/60 cm pots white resembles hibiscus & hollyhock May 10-20 trans.
LIVINGSTONE DAISY 6/6 in. borders, planters, pink, red, Daisy-like flowers; succulent; ™ Mar. 15-30 seed,
Mesembryanthemum 15/15 cm hanging baskets lavender good for windy, hot, dry area May 1-10 trans.
LOBELIA 4/6 in. borders, planters, true blue, Both trailing and compact forms ™–» Feb. 20-28 seed,
Lobelia erinus 10/15 cm hanging baskets red,white with delicate flowers for edging n/a trans.
MARIGOLD, AFRICAN 30/12 in. background of bed, orange, Tall plants with lacy leaves and ™ Apr. 1-15 trans-
Tagetes erecta 75/30 cm cut flowers yellow large flowers that repel insects May 15-30 plant
MARIGOLD, FRENCH 16/6 in. borders, beds, yellow, Combos. of bicolor flowers; ™ Apr. 10-20 seed,
Tagetes patula 40/15 cm mass planting orange includes Dwarf Boy Series May 15-25 trans.
MARIGOLD, POT 12/8 in. beds, borders, yellow, Similar looking to true marigolds; ™ Apr. 10-20 seed,
Calendula officinalis 30/20 cm cut flowers orange flowers reseed readily May 15-25 trans.
MIMULUS 10/6 in. beds, borders, red & Suitable for moist shaded area; ˜ Mar. 15 seed.
(Monkey Flower) 25/15 cm mass planting yellow flowers mimic monkey faces May 15-20 trans.
NASTURTIUM 10/10 in. beds, borders, yellow, Dwarf plants with edible foliage ™–» Apr 1-10 seed,
Tropaeolum majus 25/25 cm planters orange and round peltate leaves May 1-10 trans. 27
NEMESIA 10/6 in. beds, borders, various Clusters of flowers with ™–» Mar. 10-20 seed,
Nemesia strumosa 25/15 cm mass planting mixed lower bearded petals May 10-20 trans.
NICOTIANA 16/10 in. beds, borders, red, wine, Fragrant, star-shaped flowers; ™–» Mar. 1-10 seed,
Nicotiana alata 40/25 cm cut flowers rose also called flowering tobacco May 1-10 trans.
PANSY 6/6 in. border, beds, various Hardy, frost tolerant, short plants ˜ Feb. 1-10 seed,
Viola tricolor 15/15 cm edging plant mixed for shaded, moist areas n/a trans.
PETUNIA 16/8 in. borders, beds, wide Most popular annual flowers; ™–» Feb. 15-20 trans-
Petunia hybrida 40/20 cm planters, baskets range spreading or cascading growth May 10-20 plant
Livingstone Daisy Nicotiana Nemesia

Gazania Lavatera
ANNUALS
hanging baskets all annuals listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability
Sun ™
Name Features Flower
Part Shade »
Color
Shade ˜

BACOPA » Shade tolerant annual white

Satura cordata
BEGONIA,Tuberous ˜ Showy, large, double flowers; pink, red,
Begonia tuberhybrida shade Illumination & Non-Stop series orange
CALIBRACHOA ™–»–˜ Small pastel colored petunia-like blue,pink
(Million bells) blooms likes lots of water and food or white
COLEUS » Combo. of multi-colored leaves; colored
Coleus hybridus Minter Rainbow cultivar foliage
FUCHSIA » Drooping bicolored flowers; red, white
Fuchsia hybrida bring woody shrub indoors in fall & purple
GERANIUM, IVY ™ Hanging or climbing stems, red, pink
Pelargonium peltatum durable plant with divided leaves or white
IMPATIENS ˜ Popular annual hangers; wide
Garden Balsam Accent and Rosebud series range
SCAEVOLA ™–»–˜ Creeping herbaceous perennial; blue
Scaevola aemula Blue Wonder variety
SUPERTUNIAS ™–»–˜ Abundant pastel flowers; wide
Petunia hybrida lots of water and fertilizer each day!!! range
VERBENA ™ Flower clusters; keep wet!; various
Verbena hybrida hairy, toothed, lanceolate leaves

Frost Tolerant Annuals

Hanging Baskets Centaurea
Dianthus
Dracaena
Pansy
Petunia
Snapdragon
Dusty Miller Viola
28 Kale

Frost Sensitive Annuals

Ageratum Lavatera
Amaranthus Marigold
Begonia Mesembryanthemum
Dahlia Portulaca
Gazania Statice
Geranium Strawflower
Impateins Verbena
Lantana Zinnia
annualvines

ANNUALS
all annuals listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability
Sun ™ Indoor Seed or
Names Ht. Use Flower Features Part Shade » Seed Trans-
Color Shade ˜ Date plant

Asarina- 7 ft. hangers, planters, pink Trailing vine with large, ™ Feb. trans.
Mystic Pink 2 m. trellis trumpet-shaped flowers 15-28
Canary Bird Vine 7 ft. vine coverage on yellow Annual climber with ™–» May seed,
Tropaeolum peregrinum 2 m. fence or trellis (with cut petals) 5-lobed leaves 10-20
COBAEA SCANDENS 12 ft. trellis, violet Bell-shaped flowers ™ n/a trans.
(Purple Climber) 4 m. hanging basket with green sepals
CREEPING JENNY 4 in. planters, yellow Creeping perennial ™–» n/a trans.
Lysimachia nummularia 10 cm. hanging basket or ground cover
Eccremocarpus 10 ft. hangers, planters, yellow, orange, 2 cm. tubular blooms ™ Mar. trans.
(Chilean Glory Vine) 3 m. trellis screening red 1-15
Hyacinth Bean 10 ft. hangers, planters, Lilac flowers form Twining climber with ™ Mar. trans.
Dolichos lablab 3 m. trellis purple edible pods triangular leaves 1-15
KENILWORTH IVY- 24 in. bed, border, planter, single, tiny pink Profusion of small ™–» Feb.
Cymbalaria muralis 60 cm. hanging basket, pot blooms leafed foliage 15-20 trans.
MINA LOBATA 12 ft. planters, red, orange, Twining climber; ™ Mar. trans.
(Spanish Flag) 4 m. hanging basket yellow 3 flower colors same time
Moon Vine 10 ft. trellis screening white Large 15 cm. fragrant ™ Mar. trans.
Calonyction aculeatum 3 m. flowers open at night 20-31
Morning Glory- 10 ft. trellis screening blue Large 10-15 cm. trumpet- ™ Mar. trans.
(Heavenly Blue) 3 m. shaped flowers 20-31
PETUNIA -Super 4 ft. planters, blues,pinks 6 cm. flower ™ n/a trans.
cascadias, surfinia 1.2 m. hanging basket
RhOdochiton- 7 ft. hanger, planter, purple bell-shaped flowers ™–» Mar. trans.
Purple Bells 2 m. houseplant 20-31
Scarlet Run. Bean 7 ft. screens, trellis, red Vine with flower clusters; ™ n/a seed
Phaseolus coccineus 2 m. posts edible beans
Sweet Pea 10 ft. screens, pink, white, blue, Old-fashioned favorite ™–» n/a seed,
Lathyrus odoratus 3 m. beds red, cream, purple with fragrant flowers trans.
Thunbergia ALATA 3 ft. planters, orange or yellow Arrow shaped leaves; ™–» April seed, 29
Black Eyed Susan Vine 1 m. hanging basket with dark center individually borne flowers 10-20 trans.
Vinca major 3 ft. hanger accent, blue Variegated trailing foliage; ™–» n/a trans.
(Greater Periwinkle) 1 m. planter cousin to Vinca minor
 annuals herbs all herbs listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability
ANNUALS
Annual, Sun ™ Indoor/ Days From Seed/
Names Biennial, Culinary Cuisine Uses Part Shade » Outdoor Seed to Trans-
Perennial Shade ˜ seed date Harvest plant
ANISE annual Licorice flavored seeds for Anisette liqueur, ™ May 15-30 70-75 seed
Pimpinella anisum baking and white meat n/a trans
BASIL annual Pungent flavor for tomato sauces; 6 varieties ™ May 15-30 80-85 seed
Ocimum basilicum including Sweet, Purple and Lemon types n/a trans
BAY/LAUREL woody Bay leaves flavor soup and stew; ™–» n/a
Laurus nobilis also available as indoor tropical plant n/a trans
BORAGE biennial Leaves are used in salads; ™ May 15-30 80-85 seed
Borago officinalis edible blue flowers self seed n/a
CARAWAY biennial Seeds flavor bread and cheese; ™–» n/a seed
Carum carvi resembles carrot or dill May 15-30 2nd year
CATGRASS Oats perennial Cat treat; ™–» n/a 15-20 seed
plant indoors in pot or outdoors May 10-20
CATMINT/CATNIP perennial Cat treat or soothing tea; ™–» May 10-20 75-80 seed
Nepeta cataria in mint family with square stems n/a trans
CHAMOMILE, German annual Relaxing, soothing tea; ™–» May 10-20 20-30 seed
Matricaria recutita white daisies readily re-seed n/a
CHERVIL annual Gourmet parsley for salad garnish; »–˜ May 15-30 70-80 seed
Anthriscus cerefolium one of the four fine French herbs n/a
CHIVES perennial Mild, onion-like flavor to salad, sauce & soup; ™ May 15-30 80-85 seed
Allium schoenoprasum attractive purple flowers n/a trans
CHIVES, Garlic perennial Mild garlic flavor to salad, sauce & soup; ™ May 15-30 85-90 seed
Allium tuberosum attractive white flowers n/a trans
CILANTRO/Coriander annual Leaves are also called Chinese parsley; ™–» May 10-20 20-30 seed
Coriandrum sativum seed is called coriander n/a trans
COMFREY perennial Once used as a poultice on ™–» n/a 60-90
Symphytum officinale cuts, bruises and broken bones May 10-30 trans
DILL, Fernleaf annual Tangy tasting pickles, salad, sauce & stew; ™ May 15-30 60-70 seed
30 Anethum graveolens a dilly of an herb that self seeds! n/a trans
ECHINACEA perennial Also called coneflower, ™ Apr. 1-15 120 seed
Echinacea angustifolia strengthens immune system n/a trans.
FENNEL annual Mild anise/licorice flavor to ™ May 10-20 80-90 seed,
Foeniculum vulgare salad, sauce & fish n/a
FEVERFEW perennial Put in salad or soup to ™ May 10-30 80-90 seed,
Matricaria parthenium prevent migraine headaches n/a trans.
GARLIC annual Popular sulphur flavoring to meat & veg. dishes ™–» May 1-15 100-120 bulb
Allium sativum allegedly wards off evil vampires! n/a cloves
GARLIC, Elephant annual Nutty, milder garlic flavor; ™–» May 1-15 100-120 bulb
Allium ampeloprasum good grilled or roasted veggie n/a
HORSE RADISH perennial Hot condiment on beef and pork; ™ May 1-15 100-120 bulb,
Armoracia rusticana tuberous roots n/a
HYSSOP perennial Bitter taste to salad, soup or stew; ™ May 10-30 30-60 seed,
Hyssopus officinalis blue flower spikes n/a
LAVENDER, English hardy Fragrant flowers for bouquets, ™ Mar. 1-10 100-120 seed,
Lavendula angustifolia perennial baths, potpourris and sachets n/a trans.
LAVENDER, French tender Fragrant flowers for bouquets, ™ Mar. 1-10 100-120
Lavendula dentata perennial baths, potpourris and sachets n/a trans.
LEMON BALM perennial Balmy lemon flavored tea, ™–» Apr. 10-20 90-100 seed,
Melissa officinalis salad garnish n/a trans.
LEMON VERBENA tender Zesty lemon flavor to hot or cold ™ n/a
Aloysia triphylla perennial desserts, dishes or drinks n/a trans
MARJORAM, Sweet annual Strong flavor to meat and veggie dishes; ™ Apr. 10-20 80-85 seed,
Origanum majorana closely related to oregano n/a
MINT/Peppermint perennial Strong, hot flavored tummy tea, lamb, jelly & ™ Apr. 1-10 80-85 seed,
Mentha piperita dessert; plant has square stems May 1-10
annuals herbs all herbs listed subject to seasonal

ANNUALS
and supplier availability
Annual, Sun ™ Indoor/ Days From Seed/
Names Biennial, Culinary Cuisine Uses Part Shade » Outdoor Seed to Trans-
Perennial Shade ˜ seed date Harvest plant
MINT/Spearmint perennial Cool, mild flavored Mint Julep and lamb; » Apr. 1-10 80-85 seed
Mentha spicata square stems with pebbled, pointed leaves May 1-10
OREGANO tender Sharp flavor to Italian pizza & pasta sauce » Apr. 10-20 60-80 seed,
Origanum vulgare perennial or Mexican dishes; Greek & common types n/a trans
PARSLEY, Curled biennial Curled leaf garnish type; ™ Apr. 1-15 70-90 seed,
Petroselinum crispum replant every year May 15-30 trans
PARSLEY, Italian biennial Plain leaf cooking type; » Apr. 1-15 70-90 seed,
Petroselinum neopolitanum replant every year May 15-30 trans
ROSEMARY tender Mediterranean herb in meat & veggie dishes; » n/a seed,
perennial
Rosemarinus officinalis blue flowers and evergreen, linear leaves May 10-20 75-85 trans
RUE tender Bitter tasting herb to reputedly repel cats; ™–» Apr. 15-30 70-90
Ruta graveolens perennial toxic to pregnant women n/a trans
SAGE perennial Strong flavor in stuffing, sausage & poultry; ™ Apr. 10-20 80-85 seed,
Salvia officinalis 4 varieties with purple flower spikes n/a trans
SAVORY, Summer annual Strong, peppery flavor to beans and meat; ™ n/a seed
Saturega hortensis use fresh or dry leaves May 10-20 60-65 trans
SAVORY, Winter perennial Strong, peppery flavor to beans and meat; ™ n/a
Saturega montana evergreen creeping plant May 10-20 60-65 trans
SORREL, French perennial Sour lemon flavor to soup or salad; ™–» May 1-15 60-90 seed
Rumex acetosa also known as sour grass in Europe May 15-30
SWEET WOODRUFF Perennial Sweet scented tea or wine; » n/a
Galium odoratum great ground cover with white flowers n/a trans
TARRAGON, French Perennial Anise/licorice flavor to salad or fish; ™–» n/a
Artemesia dracunculus another one of the four fine French herbs n/a trans
TARRAGON, Russian perennial Mildly bitter anise flavor to salad or fish; ™–» May 10-30 60-90 seed
Artemesia dracunculus less versatile variety lacks aromatic oils n/a
THYME, Common perennial Flavors soup, meat and veggie dishes; ™–» Apr. 1-10 85-90 seed,
Thymus vulgaris good ground cover n/a trans 31
THYME, Lemon perennial Lemon fragrance to white meat dishes; ™ Apr. 1-10 85-90
Thymus citriodorus attractive green and gold variegated leaves n/a trans

Basil

TIPS FOR SAVING HERBS

Harvest herbs just before the flower buds appear since this
is when they are at their most flavorful. Using a sharp knife
or scissors, cut the stem leaving at least four inches below a
pair of leaves in order to ensure good regrowth. Wash herbs
in cold running water and drain on paper towels.

The easiest way to preserve your herbs is through air-drying

at room temperature. For plants with long stems such as
sage, parsley, and rosemary tie 6-8 stems together and
hang upside down in a warm, dark place for approximately
1-2 weeks. Use trays or screens for short-stemmed herbs
like thyme and large-leafed herbs like basil. Store in a warm
dark place until dry.
Once the herbs are succussfully preserved keep in an
airtight container in a cool, dark place as light and heat will
destroy their flavour and color.
Another method of preservation is freezing. This is
especially useful for herbs that do not dry well such as dill,
chives, and basil. Simply wash, chop, freeze, and thaw
when needed.
ANNUALS
water plantsyour questions
Q: How deep should I plant my water lily?
A: Your lily can survive with only one and a half inches of water
above the crown of the plant. It will be more susceptible to adverse
temperature swings in Calgary from day to night. The best location
is in a quiet portion of the pool, away from any waterfalls, to a
depth of eighteen inches from the bottom of the pot to the top of
the water. If you follow these directions your lily will be safe even
when there is a threat of frost.
Q: What is the difference between marginal and bog
plants?
A: There is not a major difference - marginal plants need high
humidity while bog plants need wet roots. The best place for
marginal plants is on the edge of the pond; bog plants should be
immersed in the water depending upon variety - follow instructions
for individual plants.
Q: Why can’t I get my water hyacinth to bloom?
A: The hyacinth is a “tropical” plant which loves the heat.
Unfortunately, the cool nights of Calgary are not conducive for
blooming. These plants do well in crowded conditions which may
help to encourage blooming.
Q: Do I need to fertilize my water plants?
A: Use pond tablets to feed your lilies at a rate of one tablet per
plant per growing month. This provides the minor elements which
are used up from your pond quite quickly. Nitrogen, phosphorous,
and potassium, are in ample supply from your water source so
there is no need to add any.
Q: What type of soil do I use for my water plants?
A: A rich clay loam, is preferred. “Top soil” by Homestead would
be the best choice for planting all your water plants into.
32
Q: Why are marginal / bog plants in such a small pot?
A: This benefits the customer. Small pots are a much more
economical altenative to the expensive larger potted plants.
Q: Can I put water plants in a half oak barrel?
A: Yes, but only a maximum of one lily, one floater, such as a
hyacinth, or lettuce, and one bog plant. Don’t forget to top up
water lost through evaporation.
Q: How many water plants should I put in my pond?
A: You can use one lily per 5 square feet of pond surface area,
one bog plant per one square foot, and one bundle of oxygenating
plants such as hornwort per 18 cubic feet (3’x3’x2’). Floaters,
including surface area covered by bog and lily, can equal up to
60% of the total surface area.
Q: What do I do with the plants when winter comes?
A: If the pond is to be drained at the end of the season and all the
bog plants and lilies are in their own containers make sure you
leave the plants in their own containers. Floaters and oxygenators
are not in containers so they’ll need to be treated differently.
A) Lilies- Lift the entire plant, pot and all, and place in a dark,
plastic bag. Store the lily in the bag in a cool location, with the bag
slightly draped closed not twist-tied shut. Place moist sphagnum
moss around the crown of the plant, on the soil surface. Keep this
moss wet, checking at least every two to three weeks. Once the
foliage has died back, remove. Keep in this location until March of
the following year. At this time place in bucket of water and cover
one and a half inches above the crown. Give the plant a pond
tablet. Bring into a higher light, warmer location. Place into pond
when frost is unlikely at a minimum depth 18”.
B) Bog plants once lifted out of the pond can be “heeled-in”,
which is digging a trench deep enough to cover the pot up to
four inches above the crown of the plant. Backfill the trench
after soaking the roots, leave the foliage on the plants until they
are totally brown and dead, then remove. In the spring dig up
once the soil has thawed and bring into a warmer and brighter
location. Water well, and keep them standing in a saucer, which
is constantly filled with water.
C) Marginal plants which can be planted along the edge of the
pond will need a four inch mulch layer after being well watered
before the big freeze of winter sets in. Their survival will depend
upon the plants’ hardiness zone.
D) Floaters, water hyacinth and lettuce, will need to be brought
in before they are touched by frost. To over-winter they will need
to have their free-floating root system planted into ‘top soil’,
and placed in a high ligh­t window, south preferred for the winter
months.
E) Hornwort- the best place for it to over winter if the pond is
to be drained is in an aquarium type setting with 12-14 hours of
flourescent light a day.
Q: How do I control the algae?
A: A little amount (a thin coating) is fine but when it gets to the
point where a film, or what is known as filamentous algae, has
grown it is time to scoop it out. Follow the 3’x3’x2’ cubic footage
space needs for the hornwort bundles in order to have enough
oxygenating plants for the area. Have the water pass through a
filter system, which is maintained, skim off the garbage from the
top to keep the surface as clean as possible, and if you have fish
don’t overfeed.
 pondinstallation

ANNUALS
Pond Basics
Water features, such as ponds and fountains, have recently become very popular . The sound of running water is soothing and
an attractively landscaped pool with some fish, water plants (even water lilies!), and a waterfall or fountain can be a beautiful ad-
dition to your garden. The most important first step is to decide where your pond is to be located, and how it is to be constructed.
Things to consider are:
Pond size should be as large as the site and your budget will allow. Larger volumes of water do not change temperature as
quickly. Depth is most practical at 18-23 inches. A pool 24 or more inches deep requires, by law, a lockable, 6 foot fence. If plants,
particularly water lilies, are to be included, at least 6 hours of sunlight daily is necessary. Locate your pond where it can be seen
and heard from both inside your home and seating areas of your garden. Try to avoid locating under decidous trees, as leaves
dropping into the pond are a nuisance. An electrical supply is necessary for a pump and possible lighting.

Choosing the Pond

Pre-formed ponds are the easiest to install but are limited in
HOW TO INSTALL
size and shape. Heavy butyl liners are more of a challenge
to install, but give you unlimited flexibility and design. Poured
concrete is not practical in Alberta. With our fluctuations in
temperature, they crack too easily.

Installing a Pond
Choose site and outline area with garden hose to visualize
shape and orientation. Excavate area and line with old carpet,
or layers of newspaper, then add sand to cushion the liner.
Pre-formed ponds are set into the hole so that the lip is just
at soil level. Liners are draped into the hole and neatly folded
at curves to fit.
Add water as you shape the liner to help it settle into the
pond.
Be sure the pool is level. Use a board across it with a carpen-
ter's level. If the pond is not level, the water will still be level, so
it will look unbalanced. Edge the pond with appropriate material
for your garden. It might look best with rock edging if rock is
used elsewhere in the area. If there are other wood features
such as a deck close by, it could look best with wood edging.

Water Garden Plants 33

Oxygenators help filter the water and utilize nutrients that algae
otherwise use, so their utilization cuts down on algae formation.
They float on the water surface. Floating plants, and potted
plants with floating leaves such as water lilies, cover a portion
of the water surface, so also cut down on algae production by
eliminating sunlight on the water. They also are very attractive
additions to the pond. Marginal plants, in pots on shelves or
upturned pots in the pool at the edges, grow in soil, and add a
natural appearance to the pond. Plants around a pond should
look appropriate, but often mimic what would normally grow in
a bog around a natural pond. The area surrounding an artificial
pond is usually dry, so bog plants do not do well.

Fish
Fish add a fascinating aspect to a pond, with their movement
and color. Goldfish do well in a pool over the summer, and are
inexpensive. Koi are more expensive, have beautiful coloration,
grow to be large fish and become somewhat tame. Fish also
eat mosquito larvae.

Overwintering
Once there has been a frost, water plants and fish should be
brought indoors. Neither can survive outdoors over the winter. Once foliage has died back remove and keep remainder in a loosely
tied plastic bag with a damp rootball, in a cold but frost-free place until spring. Check the rootball periodically to be sure it hasn't
dried out. Some tropical water plants may be kept in water under artificial lights for the winter. If an appropriate place is not avail-
able to store plants over the winter (we don't always have cold basements anymore), it is best to consider them as annuals and
replace them in the spring. Fish can be kept in an aquarium indoors for the winter. It will need a filter, but not a light or heater.
 annuals water plants
ANNUALS
all water plants listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
Floating Plants Latin Name Description
Hornwort Ceratophyllum Submerged feathery foliage; good oxygenator
Water Hyacinth Eichornia Fleshy floater with occasional lavender flowers
Water Lettuce Pistia Looks like small floating cabbage

Marginal Plants Latin Name Description

Arrowhead Sagittaria Arrow-shaped leaves, white flowers
Buttercup, Creeping Ranunculus Bright yellow flowers, creeping stems
Cardinal Flower Lobelia Red or blue trumpet-shaped flowers
Cattail, Miniature Typha Miniature brown cattails, slender leaves
Creeping Jenny Lysimachia Bright yellow flowers, small round leaves, trailing stems
Iris, Blue or Yellow Flag Iris Blue or yellow flowers on these stunning specimens
Marsh Marigold Caltha Golden yellow flowers, serrated leaves
Monkey Flower Mimulus Yellow or pink, snapdragon-like flowers
Palm, Umbrella or Papyrus Cyperus Tall plant with umbrella-like foliage
Pickerel Weed Pontederia Heart-shaped leaves, flower clusters
Rush Juncus Narrow leaves, brown seed heads
Sedge Carex Grass-like, arching leaves; brown seed heads

Water Lilies Nymphaea Colours: pink, red, white, yellow

34
STARTING SEEDS
starting seedsyour questions
Q: How deep should seeds be planted?
A: Most seed packages give depth and spacing directions
but a good rule of thumb is to plant at a depth of three
times the width of the seed. Very small seeds can simply
be pressed into the soil and not covered.
Q: What causes young seedlings to collapse?
A: The most common cause of this is lack of light or wa-
tering problems. If watering or lack of watering is not the
cause then “damping off” (a fungus) is a possible cause.
By using a sterile soil less mix and providing good air cir-
culation, the risk is reduced. A fungicide called No Damp
used at the time of planting or with early waterings will also
protect the seedlings.
Q: Why do seedlings started indoors tend to get tall
and weak?
A: Light conditions and temperatures indoors are often
unsuitable for healthy growth. Young plants stretch toward
light and are less robust when kept too warm. By using
full spectrum fluorescent lights for 12-16 hours a day, kept
about 4-6 inches(10-15 cm) above the plants, they should
stay more compact. Temperatures should be kept at about
15 degrees C at night and 20 degrees C during the day.
Q: How often should seedlings be watered?
A: The soil should be kept slightly moist. Light, tempera-
ture, growth and size of plant will affect how often watering
36 should be done. High temperatures and strong sunlight
will dry soil very quickly as will larger plants in small con-
tainers.
Q: Should seedlings be fertilized?
A: Once the young plants have their second set of true
leaves they can be fed. Any fertilizer with a slightly higher
phosphorous ( second number) level is fine. Follow pack-
age directions for mixing and frequency of feedings.
Q: What is pricking out?
A: The transplanting of seedlings is referred to as pricking
out. When separating or moving small plants try to move
as much soil as possible with the plants. Use a pencil or
popsicle stick to lift plants and handle the plants by a leaf
rather then the stem. Replant into individual containers at
the same depth and form soil gently around plant.
Q: What does ‘pinching’ mean?
A: Pinching is a type of pruning. By removing the growth tip
of plants they are encouraged to branch out. Many plants
respond well to pinching but check on individual varieties
as some are best left alone.
Q: Can garden soil be used when starting seeds in-
doors?
A: Garden soil can be very heavy and dense and may
contain weed seeds or fungi. Generally it is best to use a
sterile soil-less mix. A soil-less mix is usually a mix of peat
moss, vermiculite, and perlite. This combination is light,
porous, and works well when starting seeds and growing
plants to maturity.
Q: What is hardening off?
A: This is the process of exposing plants to outdoor con-
ditions gradually. About two weeks before placing plants
in their final location put plants out in a shady spot for an
hour or so. Each day increase time outside and exposure
to sun. Protect plants from frost.
Q: Why bother to grow things from seeds?
A: Although seed prices have increased it is still far less
expensive to grow plants from seed than to buy plants.
The selections and varieties of seeds are much larger then
that of plants, particularly annuals and vegetables. Growing
plants from seed can be very rewarding.
Q: I planted runner beans and would like to save the
seeds for next year. How can I do this?
A: Cut the beans from the vine and store in a cool dry place.
When the pods have dried, remove the beans and store
them in a cool dry place as well. This method wil also work
for sweet peas and other legumes. For sweet peas lightly
cover the container the pods are in with a piece of paper
as the pods pop and you may have sweet pea seeds all
over your basement!
Q: What is ‘damping off’? How do I treat it?
A: Damping off is a fungal disease that causes the seed-
lings to wither at the soil line and fall over. Using a sterile
growing medium like soil-less mixes helps greatly to reduce
this problem. Make sure you wash containers well if you
plan to re-use them. Don’t overcrowd the seedlings and
leave the tops of any indoor greenhouses slightly ajar to
improve airflow. If this fails there are fungicides like No
Damp available.
 starting seedsflowers

STARTING SEEDS
Flower Indoor Seeding Outdoor Seeding Germination Temperature Germination
Time Time (Celsius) (days)
African Daisy Mar 20 - 28 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 18
Ageratum Feb 20 - 28 May 1 - 15 18 - 24 15 - 20
Alyssum Mar 15 - 30 May 1 - 10 24 - 27 3 - 5
Amaranthus Feb 20 - 28 - 18 - 24 15 - 20
Aster Mar 1 - 15 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 15
Aubretia Mar 15 - 30 May 10 - 20 16 - 22 18 - 25
Baby’s Breath Mar 15 - 30 May 1 - 10 18 - 22 12 - 15
Bachelor’s Button Mar 15 - 30 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 18 - 22
Balsam Mar 1 - 20 May 1 - 15 18 - 24 12 - 15
Begonia Feb 1 - 28 - 18 - 24 18 - 22
Bells of Ireland Mar 1 - 15 - 10 - 13 25 - 35
Canterbury Bells - May 15 - 30 22 -24 14 - 21
Calendula Mar 20 - 30 May 1 - 10 17 - 23 12 - 15
California Poppy - May 1 - 10 18 - 24 20 - 25
Candytuft Mar 1 - 20 May 1 - 15 18 - 24 12 - 30
Carnation Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 15 18 - 24 10 - 15
Castor Bean Mar 15 - 20 May 10 - 20 22 - 26 12 - 18
Celosia Mar 10 - 20 May 15 - 20 18 - 24 12 - 15
Chinese Lantern Feb 1 - 28 May 1 - 20 18 - 24 18 - 24
Christmas Pepper Apr 1 - Jun 15 - 23 - 27 20 - 28
Cineraria Mar 1 - 15 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 12 - 15
Chrysanthemum Mar 1 - 10 May 15 - 20 16 - 18 12 - 15
Clarkia - May 10 - 20 18 - 24 12 - 18
Cleome Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 13 - 27 15 - 20
Coleus Mar 1 - 15 - 23 - 27 16 - 20
Columbine Mar 1 - 15 - 18 - 24 28 - 36 37
Cosmos Apr 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 6 - 12
Cynoglossum Mar 15 - 20 May 20 - 30 22 - 24 7 - 14
Dahlia Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 6 - 12
Delphinium Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 13 - 18 18 - 25
Dianthus Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 10 - 15
Digitalis Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 6 - 10
Dusty Miller Feb 1 - 10 - 19 - 23 6 - 10
Euphorbia Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 18 - 22
Four O’Clock - June 1 - 10 18 - 24 10 - 15
Gaillardia Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 15 - 20
Geranium Jan 10 - 25 - 22 - 24 12 - 18
Geum Mar 1 - 10 Mar 15 - 30 22 - 24 28 - 30
Godetia Apr 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 16 - 22 12 - 20
Hollyhock May 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 15 - 18 10 - 12
Impatiens Feb 15 - 20 - 21 - 24 18 - 22
Larkspur Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 12 - 15 20 - 25
Lathyrus(Sweet Pea) Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 15
Lavatera - May 1 - 10 18 - 24 10 - 21
Livingstone Daisy Mar 15 - 30 May 1 - 10 21 - 22 12 - 18
Lobelia Feb 20 - 28 - 18 -24 15 - 20
Lupine May July 12 - 14 14 - 16
Marigold Mar 10 - 20 May 15 - 25 18 - 26 5 - 10
Money Plant Mar 10 - 20 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 18
Mimosa Mar 15 - 30 May 30 26 - 29 10 - 12
Morning Glory Mar 15 - 30 May 20 18 - 24 10 - 14
Nasturtium Apr 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 18

 starting seedsflowers
STARTING SEEDS
Flower Indoor Seeding Outdoor Seeding Germination Temperature Germination
Time Time (Celsius) (days)
Nemesia Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 13 - 15 15 - 20
Nicotiana Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 20 - 26 15 - 20
Night Scented Stock Mar 20 - 30 - 20 - 26 7 - 10
Ornamental Cabbage - June 15 18 - 24 10 - 12
Pansy Feb 1 - 10 - 21 - 24 8 - 15
Petunia Feb 15 - 25 May 10 - 20 18 - 21 12 - 18
Poppy Annual - May 15 - 30 18 - 21 10 - 14
Poppy Iceland Mar 20 - 30 May 15 - 30 18 - 21 12 - 15
Portulaca Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 18 - 21 12 - 18
Salpiglossis Mar 15 - 25 May 10 -20 18 - 26 12 - 18
Salvia Mar 1 - 10 - 24 - 26 12 - 18
Scabiosa Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 12 - 18
Schizanthus Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 15 - 21 15 - 18
Shasta Daisy Mar 15 - 30 June 18 - 24 8 - 14
Snapdragon Mar 1 - 15 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 10 - 15
Statice Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 20 - 25
Sunflower - May 10 - 20 21 - 26 12 - 18
Sweet Pea - Apr 15 - 20 18 - 21 12 - 15
Sweet William Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 18 - 21 10 - 15
Verbena Feb 20 - 28 May 10 - 20 20 - 30 20 -25
Vinca Feb - Mar - 18 - 24 15 - 25
Viola Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 20 - 26 10 - 12
Wallflower Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 20 20 - 26 10 - 14
Wildflower mix - May 10 - 20 18 - 24 varies
Zinnia Apr 1 - 10 May 20 - 30 20 - 26 5 - 12
38

starting seedsherbs
Herb Indoor Seeding Outdoor Seeding Approximate days
Time Time from seeding to harvest
Anise - May 15 - 30 70 - 75
Basil - May 15 - 30 80 - 85
Borage - May 15 - 30 80 - 85
Catnip - May 10 - 20 75 - 80
Chervil - May 15 - 30 70 - 80
Chives - May 15 - 30 80 - 85
Dill - May 15 - 30 70 - 75
Lavender Mar 1 - 10 - 100 - 120
Lemon Balm Apr 10 - 20 - 90 - 100
Oregano Apr 10 - 20 - 60 - 80
Peppermint Apr 1 - 10 - 80 - 85
Rosemary - May 10 - 20 75 - 85
Sage Apr 10 - 20 - 80 - 85
Sweet Majoram Apr 10 - 20 - 80 - 85
Summer Savory - May 10 - 20 60 - 65
Thyme Apr 1 - 10 - 85 - 90
starting seedsvegetables

STARTING SEEDS
Vegetable Indoor Seeding Outdoor Seeding Approximate days from
Time Time Seeding to harvest
Beans - May 20 - 30 50 - 80
Beets - May 10 - 20 50 - 60
Brussel Sprouts Mar 15 - 30 - 90 - 100
Cabbage Mar 20 - Apr 10 May 15 - 30 70 - 100
Chinese Cabbage Mar 15 - 30 May 15 - 30 70 - 80
Carrot - May 1 - 10 65 - 80
Cauliflower May 10 - 20 May 15 - 30 55 - 75
Cantaloupe Mar 15 - 30 - 110 - 120
Celery Mar 15 - 30 - 120 - 130
Corn - May 10 - 20 68 - 80
Cucumber Mar 10 - 20 May 20 - June 10 55 - 65
Chicory Apr 10 - 20 - 130 - 140
Cress Anytime May 15 - July 31 10 - 2 0
Eggplant May 10 - 20 - 80 - 100
Borecole Kale - May 20 - 30 60 - 75
Kohlrabi - May 10 - 20 60 - 70
Leek Mar 20 - 30 May 10 - 20 60 - 90
Lettuce - May 10 - 30 50 - 70
Onion Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 30 90 - 110
Okra Apr 30 - May 10 May 20 - 30 55 - 65
Pak Choi - Apr 20 - 30 45 - 55
Parsley - Apr 30 - May 10 70 - 90
Parsnip - Apr 15 - 30 120 - 130
Pea - Apr 15 - 30 60 - 75
Pepper Mar 15 - 30 - 65 - 75
Pumpkin Apr 15 - 30 - 90 - 100 39
Radish - Apr 30 - July 15 20 - 30
Spinach - Apr 30 - July 15 45 - 60
Squash - May 15 - June 1 50 - 100
Swiss Chard - May 1 - 15 55 - 65
Swede Turnip - May 20 - June 10 70 - 90
Strawberry Feb 15 - May 15 - 140 - 150
Tomato Mar 15 - Apr 1 - 80 - 110
Turnip - May 1 - 15 55 - 60
Vegetable Marrow - May 15 - 30 85 - 100
Watercress Anytime May 20 - 30 60 - 70
Watermelon Apr 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 75 - 90

FLUID SOWING
Starting vegetable seeds indoors is usually a good idea, especially in our
climate. It allows you to get a jump start on the season and reap the fruits of
your labour faster. If you don’t get a chance to start the seeds indoors, have
dry soil, or want to sow seeds in the summer months. Here’s a little trick you
can try:

Pre-germinate the seed on sheets of moist paper towel. When the roots are
just showing, before the leaves open, mix the seeds with a half-strength, fun-
gicide-free wallpaper paste or a special sowing gel. Put the mix into a plastic
bag to prevent the paste oozing out, then squeeze out the mixture into the
prepared seed drill as if you were icing a cake. This helps speed up germina-
tion and keeps the seeds moist while they get established. But don’t forget
to keep them well watered. Most vegetables grow much better when there is
plenty of water available. Check the seed packages if you are not sure.
 vegetablesgetting started
VEGETABLES
Planning a Vegetable Garden
The environmental requirements for growing vegetables are
quite simple. The best vegetable gardens are grown in sunny
locations where the soil is moist and nutritious.
In order to maximize the productivity of your garden plot you
should first consider which vegetables your family enjoys
most. It is senseless to waste valuable garden space on
vegetables that no one is going to eat. Plan the planting
order of your vegetable garden. Start with a sketch showing
approximately where you want to locate each vegetable crop.
Increase your gardens’ production potential by planting cool-
crop vegetables such as broccoli and cabbage early in the
spring. Use these early vegetables when they are mature and
then re-plant the same spot with warm-weather, short-season
crops such as lettuce and radish. Leave only enough space for
development between low-growing vegetables such as radish,
lettuce, and onion. Space can also be conserved by growing
trailing vegetables such as cucumbers on trellises or other
supports. Plant newly developed, dwarf vegetable varieties
that require less space to grow than their larger, traditional
counterparts. If ground space for a garden plot is not available
vegetables can be grown in containers. Vegetables can also
be effectively grown in combination with annuals. Be sure to
organize the garden so that tall growing vegetables do not
shade low growing vegetables.
Planting Vegetables
Soil Preparation: Spade or rototill the garden soil deeply
to break the soil into small clods. Add 454 g (1 lb) of granular
all purpose fertilizer per 30 sq m (37.5 sq yd) and turn the
soil again. Rake the soil smooth and your garden is ready for
planting. Improve the texture of heavy, clay-loam soils with
40 additions of peat moss, compost, vermiculite, perlite, or sand.
Do not work garden soil when it is wet.
Pre-Planting Care: Due to the short length of our growing
season many vegetables are available as bedding-out plants.
Vegetable bedding-out plants that can not be planted the
same day they are purchased should be watered and stored
in a shady location to prevent excessive wilting.
Planting vegetables from seed or bedding out
plants: Sow vegetable seeds in moist soil, just dry enough
to be workable. Vegetable seeds are generally sown three
times as deep as their diameter. Cover the seeds with fine soil,
compost, vermiculite, or sand. Gently remove vegetable bed-
ding-out plants from their packs or flats. Plant them in moist
soil deep enough to bury the root ball and a portion of the
lower stem. Plant vegetables started in peat pots or expand-
able peat pellets in the same way. In these cases also bury
the peat pot or pellet. When planting vegetable bedding-out
plants be sure to leave adequate room for development.
Watering: After sowing
your vegetable seeds
keep the garden soil
consistently moist until
the vegetable seedlings
are established. Water
freshly planted vegeta-
ble bedding-out plants
thoroughly to give them
a good start; use a starter fertilizer to establish a healthy
root system. Thereafter, water your garden whenever the
top 2.5-5 cm (1-2 in) of soil dries out. It is best to water early
in the day. Keep plant foliage as dry as possible by watering
at the soil level. Water droplets that remain on plant foliage
overnight encourage the development of plant diseases. Do
not rely on rain to water your vegetable garden sufficiently. It
is important to observe the condition of your garden often to
ensure continued growth and productivity.
Post-Planting Care: Keep your garden healthy by remov-
ing weeds as soon as they appear. Weeding is easier when
garden soil is moistened before you weed. This makes the
soil looser and more workable. Remove the weeds between
the rows by scraping a flat-bladed hoe over the top few cen-
timeters of soil. Pull weeds from within the rows out by hand.
This reduces the chance of disturbing vegetable roots and
prevents weeds from competing with them.
Frost-free Days: Frost free days for a particular area are
the average number of days in a growing season with the
minimum temperature above 0 degrees Celsius. Freezing
temperatures may not necessarily kill all of your plants. This
means that the growing season may be longer than the num-
ber of frost free days. The length of a growing season may
vary within relatively close proximities. For example, the heat
island effect of cities such as Calgary and Edmonton extends
their growing seasons. The average number of frost free days
in Calgary is approximately 105, from May 24 to September
5. Edmonton has a longer growing season because of their
lower elevation and longer distance from the mountains. The
average number of frost free days in Edmonton is approxi-
mately 140, from May 7 to September 23. When you decide
to plant and to harvest, take these factors into consideration:
elevation and proximity to mountains, nearness to bodies of
water, wind exposure, personal observation, and whether the
garden is on a north or south slope of a valley.
Vegetables and Vitamins: Vegetables are high in vari-
ous vitamins. Vitamins are classified as being fat soluble or
water soluble. Vitamins A, D, E and K are fat soluble, which
means that they can be stored in the body's fat tissue. Vi-
tamins B and C are water soluble, which means that they
must be taken into the body on a daily basis. Vitamin A is
known as retinal and is present in orange, yellow and green
vegetables. It is especially high in cantaloupe, carrots, pep-
pers and squash. Vitamin A deficiency is characterized by
dry eyes and night blindness. Vitamin C is called ascorbic
acid and is contained in cantaloupe, peppers, potatoes and
tomatoes. Vitamin C deficiency is called scurvey. Vitamin E is
known as tocopherol and is found in vegetable oils. Vitamin
E deficiency allegedly causes sterility.
vegetables potatoes, onions & garlic
Seed Potato Planting
Tubers should never be exposed to hot sun or drying winds
before planting keep them in a cool place. Large tubers may
be cut into several pieces, as long as you are careful to leave
two or three eyes in each piece. Let cut surfaces dry before
planting. Soil should be loose and drain well. Dig as deeply
as possible before planting. DO NOT add lime or manure
– both encourage scab formation on potatoes. They are
planted 4-6” deep, and 15-18” apart, which requires 3-4 lbs
per 50-foot row. Fertilizer should not be high in nitrogen, as
this promotes excess top growth. Most vegetable fertilizers
would be appropriate. Consistent watering is essential as
potatoes that become too dry before watering are prone
to hollow heart and scab, and tubers will rot in very wet
soil. Weeds between rows can be hoed – be careful not to
damage roots of potatoes. After harvesting, store them in
the dark about 8 degrees C, with good air circulation, and
they will keep several months.
Seed Potato Varieties
Early
Norland: Red potato, oblong with smooth skin and shallow
eyes. Resistant to scab, a good eating potato.
Warba: White potato, earliest cultivar available. Round,
deep eyes, good yield, but susceptible to scab.
Purple Potato: Early bluish-purple skin, white flesh, uniform
shape; good yielder, hardy.
Mid Season
Kennebec: White potato, large with smooth skin. Stores
well, good for boiling, baking and frying.
Pontiac: Red potato, round heavy yield, drought resistant,
excellent for boiling and mashing, bruises easily.
Yukon Gold: Yellow potato, round, smooth skin, boils and
bakes well, good flavor.
Late Varieties
Bintje: Yellow potato, one of the most popular in Europe.
Good for good for boiling and baking, store well.
Russet Burbank: White potato, large oblong with shallow
eyes. Excellent for baking and frying; stores well.
Garlic
Is a member of the onion family but instead of producing
one bulb, it produces a group of small bulbs called cloves.
They are planted in early spring (or try fall planting, mulch-
ing over winter to protect bulbs). Break bulb apart and plant
cloves separately in rich soil. Garlic needs ample water
over the summer. Insects are not a problem with garlic it
is a natural insect repellent. Harvest bulbs when tops die
down, and hang to dry in bundles.
Onions
Can be planted from seed started early indoors, but plant-
ing “onion sets” (tiny onions from previous year, purchased
in packages) outdoors when ground can be worked, is
much simpler and more dependable. These are available
for multipliers (also called shallots or scallions) bunching
onions, cooking onions and spanish onions.
VEGETABLES
Multipliers (or scallions) from clusters of bulblets in the
ground. They are usually used as a green onion but can
be allowed to mature, to a larger bulb. If they are going to
be allowed to mature, thin out or space well.
Shallots are larger then multipliers but similar in growth
habit.
Cooking onions produce a large, single bulb, and are
available in yellow, white and red types. They keep well.
Spanish onions are mild flavored, often eaten raw but poor
keepers. They are available in yellow and white types.
Silverskin or pickling onions are started from seed in
March or early April.
Growing Onions
Onions need well-drained, cool soil. Onion sets are planted
in early spring, about the first of May, transplanted (either
purchased or your own grown from seed) are set out a little
later. Use an onion maggot killer when planting to prevent
damage from these pests. Do not plant too deep the bulb
should ½ - 1” below the ground. They must never be al-
lowed to dry out. Keep the soil evenly moist. A fertilizer
lower in nitrogen (such as 3-11-0 or a bulb fertilizer) would
be suitable. As the days lengthen and the temperature rises
the tops stop growing and the bulb enlarges. Stop water-
ing mid-August. The tops will wilt and fall over naturally,
indicating it is time to harvest. Store clean, dry onions in
a dry, cool place.
Chives
A hardy perennial that can be clipped continuously all 41
summer to provide an onion like flavor to salads, dips,
sauces, etc. Chives prefer rich, moist soil in full sun but
will tolerate partial shade. They can be used fresh, frozen
or dried. There are also “garlic chives” like regular chives
but tall with a garlic flavor. If not clipped regularly, chives
produce pom-poms of lavender flowers.
Leeks
Are a mild flavored member of the onion family. They do
not form bulbs as onions do. To get long, white stems,
plant in trenches 4-6 inches deep and hill up as the plant
grows. They take 80-90 days to grow from transplants and
140-150 days from seed, so seed must be started indoors
by the end of March.
 vegetables
VEGETABLES
Asparagus
Asparagus is normally grown from roots or year-old crowns
since growing from seed is unreliable and it takes three
years until the plant is mature enough to harvest. Plant
between May 10 and 30, 15” apart in a trench with the
buds 6” below the ground level but with only a thin layer
of earth covering them. Fill in this trench as the growing
season progresses. Harvesting should begin in early to
mid-spring depending on the season and should last only
4 to 6 weeks. Harvest a very limited number of spears in
the first year after planting. Always allow a few spears to
develop into ferns. These ferns can be pruned occasionally
to keep them at bay but they must remain to feed the
root system throughout the summer; fertilize the plants
occasionally and water as normal.
Days to Harvest: 1 to 3 years
Beans
Plant beans in the spring after all danger of frost has
passed, usually between May 20 and 30. For bush beans
plant seeds about 1” deep and 2” apart in rows 2 to 3 feet
apart; thin seedlings to 3-4” apart. Growing pole beans
requires more space; rows should be 3 to 4 feet apart in
hills 3 feet apart along each row. Use a pole or other form
of support approximately 7 feet tall in the center of each
hill. Plant 3-4 seeds around this pole. Do not let the soil
dry out while the beans are blooming as this will cause the
flowers to drop, reducing your yield. Harvest beans when
they are around 5-6” long and the plant should continue
to produce for several weeks.
Days to Harvest: 48-70 depending on variety
42
Broccoli
Asparagus Brussels Sprouts
Beets
Beets do best when planted in full sun and well-drained soil.
Seed in mid-May (10-20) outdoors about ½” deep and 1”
apart in rows. Thin as they grow to 3” apart. Take care to
keep weeds down, especially among young seedlings as
beets have difficulty competing at this stage. Harvest the
beets whenever they appear large enough for use; roots
any larger than 3” in diameter are usually too tough and
fibrous. Leave an inch or so of the top attached to the root
after harvest to prevent ‘bleeding’.
Days to Harvest: 45-65 from seed depending on type
Broccoli
The best time to start this member of the cabbage family
is indoors between March 15 and 30. Transplant to the
garden when all danger of frost has passed. Do not allow
plants to remain in potting trays for too long since they
may not mature properly. Plant seedlings 15” apart in rows
spaced up to three feet apart. It is important that broccoli
gets sufficient water, especially as the heads begin to
grow. To harvest cut off the central head along with 5-6”
of stem when it is fully developed but before it begins to
loosen or flower. Side shoots should grow after the central
head is removed.
Days to Harvest: 75 from transplant
Brussels Sprouts
This hardy, slow-growing, long-season vegetable is in the
cabbage family. It requires a long growing season maturing
in the cooler fall days. Seed indoors around March 15-
30 and transplant outside after all danger of frost has
passed. Transplant the seedlings when they reach 3” tall
approximately one foot apart. During dry summer periods
Beets Beans

make sure you keep the plants watered and the area
weed-free. Pick or cut sprouts from the stem when they
are firm and around one inch in diameter. Lower sprouts
are the first to mature.
Days to Harvest: 90-100 from transplant depending on
variety.
Cabbage
One of the most popular and healthy vegetables, cabbage
comes in a variety of colors and types from green to
purple and from wrinkled to smooth. Start indoors between
March 20 and April 10 or plant seeds directly in the garden
between May 15 and 30. Seedlings can be hardened off
to allow for earlier planting. Transplants should be spaced
one to two feet apart. Harvest cabbage any time after the
heads form but before they split or become damaged.
Always removed damaged cabbage heads and cut stems
to reduce insect pests and diseases.
Days to Harvest: 65-100 depending on variety.
Carrot
Carrots can be seeded outdoors quite early (May 1-10)
because they can tolerate some frost. The soil should be
worked to a depth of 9” to allow good root growth. Plant
seeds ¼” to ½” deep in rows 1’ to 1½’ apart. Thin seedlings
when they reach an inch in height to 3 per inch for finger
carrots, one or two per inch for a young harvest, and one
per 1-2 inches for large varieties. Keep weeds under
control during the early stages. Harvest carrots when they
reach ½” in diameter for young or finger varieties. Others
should be allowed to grow ¾” in diameter.
Days to Harvest: 50 to 80 depending on variety
Cabbage
Califlower
vegetables
VEGETABLES
Chard
Essentially chard is a beet that has been bred for its leaves
at the expense of root formation; there are red, white, or
yellow-veined varieties. Seed outside from May 1 to May
15, ½” to ¾” deep. Thin seeds as they grow to about 5”
apart. Chard tolerates heat better than spinach but an
adequate water supply is still important. To harvest cut
the outer leaves 1 to 2 inches above the ground when
they are around 8 to 12 inches in length. Take care not
to damage the terminal growth bud at the bottom centre
of the foliage.
Days to Harvest: 50-65 from seed.
Cauliflower
Cauliflower is more difficult to grow than other members
of the cabbage family and takes a bit of experience and
a lot of patience. Start cauliflowers from seeds indoors
between April 1 and April 20; move them outside after all
danger of frost has passed since cauliflowers are more
sensitive to the cold than other crucifers. Ensure that
the plants are kept growing throughout the season. Any
interruption from heat, cold, drought, etc. can result in
no heads being formed. Because of this it is important to
water consistently. To blanch (or whiten) the head tie the
outer leaves over the centre of the plant. This prevents the
head from turning green or developing incorrectly. When
the head is mature (firm and white) it can be harvested by
cutting the main stem. Do not allow the heads to become
coarse in appearance as quality will be significantly
reduced.
Days to Harvest: 60 from transplant
43
Carrots
 vegetables
VEGETABLES
Corn
Corn requires a lot of light and a long growing season. Sow
seeds outdoors between May 15 and 30 about 1” deep
and 9” to 12” apart. It is best to plant two or more rows of
the same variety to ensure good pollination. Sweet corn
should be protected from cross-pollination by starchy corn
like field or popcorn; pollination by starchy corn will result
in a loss of sweetness. Keep weeds down and ensure a
good water supply while the tassels are emerging through
to harvesting. Pick corn ears when they are full and plump,
usually 20 days after the appearance of the first silk
strands. Signs that the corn is ready to harvest include
drying and browning of the silks, fullness of tip kernels,
and firm-feeling ears.
Days to Harvest: 65-80 days depending on variety
Cucumbers
Cucumbers, as well as other curcurbits such as squash,
pumpkins, and melons, are large vines which grow best
during warm nights and warm days. These plants require a
lot of space in the garden but can be trained onto trellis in
order to save room. Seeds require warm soil to germinate
so it is best to start them indoors and transplant outside
at the end of May/beginning of June. Plant in the late
afternoon or early evening in hills up to 2 feet apart taking
care not to disturb the roots. Water deeply to make sure
the lower roots are wet. All curcurbits benefit from organic
mulches applied in the summer like peat moss, compost,
or herbicide-free lawn clippings to a depth of 3”.
44 Days to Harvest: 50-70 depending on variety
Corn
Eggplant
This vegetable is cold-sensitive and requires a long warm
season. Begin indoors between March 20 and 30 and
transplant after the soil has warmed and the danger of
frost has passed. Plants should be spaced one foot apart.
When the fruits are 6” to 8” long and glossy they are ready
to be harvested. Eggplants need full sun and a consistent
watering regime.
Days to Harvest: 58 from transplant
Kohlrabi
Though it looks similar to a turnip, kohlrabi is actually a
member of the cabbage family. Start the plants indoors
in early April and transplant when the danger of frost has
passed or sow seeds directly outdoors at the end of April.
Plant seeds ¼” to ½” deep and thin to 6” apart. It is best to
harvest kohlrabi when it is small (around 2” in diameter).
Days to Harvest: 55-60 from seed or transplant date
Lettuce
Lettuce does best in cooler temperatures and should be
planted in the early spring or late summer. Seed lettuce
outdoors around the end of May ¼” to ½” deep in rows 12”
to 18” apart. Thin to 4” apart for leaf lettuce or 8” to 10” for
Romaine and other large lettuce types. Cultivate carefully
to avoid disturbing shallow roots and water frequently yet
lightly for good quality leaves. Cut leaf lettuce whenever it
is large enough to be used.
Days to Harvest: 45-85 depending on variety
Cucumber Lettuce
Eggplant

Muskmelon (Cantaloupe)
Refer to ‘Cucumbers’ for general growing instructions.
Start indoors to allow the plant adequate time to grow in
our short season. When the melons are ripe they should
easily separate from the vine and take on a tan or yellow
color. These plant require light, warmth, and shelter.
Days to Harvest: 70 from transplant
Onions
Plant onion bulbs in the spring as soon as the soil can be
worked; early planting generally results in larger onions.
Plant from sets to produce green onions or from bulbs for
larger onions. For green onions plant sets 1” apart and 1½”
deep. Dry onions should be planted 1” to 2” deep and 3”
to 4” apart. Green onions can be harvested whenever
they appear ready; if they are picked earlier the flavor is
milder. Bulb onions are usually ready in late August or early
September. When the tops are dry pull the onions and dry
in a shaded area for 2 to 4 weeks. When the plants have
dried cut off the tops an inch above the bulb and store
in a container (mesh bag or slatted crate) in a dry, well-
ventilated area. It is important that the necks are completely
dry to reduce the likelihood of disease or decay.
Days to Harvest: 60-120 depending on variety
Parsnip
Grow this root vegetable in full sun in deeply turned soil.
Seed between April 15 and 30, ½” deep in rows 18” to 24”
apart. Thin seedlings until they are 6” apart. Since rapid
growth is needed for good quality roots a fertilizer with high
phosphorous is recommended. Parsnips can be harvested
any time they reach a good size. If they are kept in cold
storage for a short period parsnips tend to sweeten and
Onion
Peppers
vegetables
VEGETABLES
improve in flavor.
Days to Harvest: 120 from seed.
Peas
Three types of this frost-hardy cool-season vegetable are
grown in Calgary: garden or English peas, snap peas,
and snow or sugar peas. Garden peas are grown for their
seeds, while both snap and sugar peas are grown for
their pods. Plant peas outdoors near the end of April 1 to
1½” deep and 2” to 3” apart. Rows should be spaced 18”
to 24” apart. Treat small seedlings with care since over-
fertilizing or improper cultivation can damage them. Dwarf
and determinate peas are self-supporting. The taller, more
productive pea vines (indeterminate varieties) require poles
or stakes to climb. Harvest garden peas when the pods are
swollen and round, snap peas before the seeds get very
large, and snow peas when they are still flat.Pick snow
peas often to ensure sweet, fibre-free pods.
Days to Harvest: 55-70 from seed
Peppers
Peppers are a tender warm-season vegetable which
require fairly high temperatures. It is best to start peppers
indoors between March 15 and 30 and then transplant
them into the garden when all danger of frost has passed
and the soil and air are warm. Place transplants 18” apart.
Ensure that the soil is well-drained and well-watered during
dry periods. Pick the fruits at any time they appear to be
ripe; green peppers are usually picked when they are 3”
to 4” long or left to ripen as red or yellow peppers. Hot
peppers can be picked at any stage.
Days to Harvest: 60-90 from transplant depending on 45
variety
Peas
VEGETABLES
vegetables
Potato
Potatoes are cool season vegetables that do best in
cooler soils. Plant seed potatoes between May 15 and 30
approximately 10” to 12” apart and cover to a depth of 1”
Squash
See ‘cucumber’ for general growing instructions. Many
to 3”. Rows should be spaced two feet apart to allow the
types of squash are available from zucchini to yellow
foliage to shade the soil. After the plants have emerged
crook-neck and other summer varieties to winter types
a mulch can be applied to keep weeds down, conserve
such as acorn or spaghetti squash. Harvest zucchini when
moisture, and cool the soil. After the potatoes break the
they are around 6” to 10” long and yellow crookneck at 4”
surface, build up a ridge
to 7” in length. Winter squash should be picked when the
of loose soil around the
stems are greyish and beginning to dry up. Cold weather
plant. This will reduce the
will increase the sugar content.
number of greened tubers.
Days to Harvest: Summer: 50-60 depending on type
Dig potatoes when they
Winter: 90-100 depending on variety.
are 1” to 2” in size for
‘new’ potatoes or allow the
tops to die down before Tomato
harvesting. There are two main types of tomatoes: determinate and
To avoid scab (rough, indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes eventually form a
raised corky lesions on flower cluster at the terminal growing point causing the
the potato surface) reduce plant to stop growing in height. Indeterminate tomatoes
the application of organic have only lateral or side-branching flower clusters and
material; do not apply grow indefinitely. Indeterminate varieties can be very
manure in the spring. late in maturing but are generally more flavorful then
Days to Harvest: varies depending on type (early, mid, determinate types whose fruit is far quicker to mature
late) and, in general, easier to control. Start seeds indoors
early in mid to late-March and transplant outside when
all danger of frost has passed (usually the first weekend
Pumpkin
in June). Spacing depends on the type of plant - dwarf
Follow ‘cucumber’ instructions for general information.
plants only need 12”, staked plants 15” to 24”, and some
Start indoors between April 15 and 30 and plant outside
46 when the soil is warm in an area which receives a lot of
indeterminates require up to 8 feet between plants. Apply
a mulch after the soil has warmed and ensure consistent
sun. Harvest when the rind is hard and of a deep, solid
watering throughout the growing season. Pick tomatoes
color. Pumpkins can be covered during a light frost but
when they are firm and well-colored. If a heavy frost
should be brought in if a heavy frost is expected to prevent
is expected harvest all the green fruit and allow them to
such damage as softening.
continue ripening indoors in a cool, light area.
Days to Harvest: 110-120 from transplant
Days to Harvest: 45-80 depending on variety.

Radish
Radishes are among the
Turnips
These members of the cabbage family require the cool
easiest of vegetables
temperatures of spring and fall as well as full sun for best
to grow. Early varieties
results. The leaves can be used for greens and the root
usually do best in the spring
can be cooked like beets. Plant seeds outdoors between
but some later-maturing
May 1 and 15 and thin to 3” to 4” apart. The soil should
varieties can be planted
be loosened to 10” to 12” deep for adequate root growth
for summer harvest. Seed
before the seeds are planted.
directly outdoors any time
Days to Harvest: 55-60 depending on type
between May 1 and July
15 ¼” to ½” deep. Thin the
rows out, leaving ½” to 1” Watermelon
between plants for spring varieties and 2” to 4” for winter For basics regarding watermelons refer to ‘Cucumbers’.
types like Daikon. Pull radishes when they are young When growing seedless varieties it is important that a few
(around 1” in diameter); leaving them in the ground any normal seed types be planted to allow pollination. Start
longer results in spongy, poor-tasting roots. Large winter seeds indoors at the beginning of April or outside at the
varieties can be kept in the ground much longer. end of May at a depth of one inch. Transplant seedlings
Days to Harvest: Spring: 20-30 from seed; Winter: 50 when the soil is warm and allow considerable space (plants
should be 3 to 5 feet apart). Watermelons are ready for
harvest when the skin is rough and dull and when the
bottom of the melon turns from light green to yellow.

Allium (Allium species)
These bulbs belong to the large onion family. They pro-
duce 6 in. - 5 ft. (15 cm - 1.5 m) tall plants, depending
on the variety, with typical hollow flat basal leaves. They
also produce few or many white, yellow or pink to purple
ball-shaped flower clusters on tall hollow stems. These
bulbs prefer sunny locations. Plant allium bulbs 4-6 in.
(10-15 cm) deep and 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) apart.
Crocus (Crocus species)
These corms produce dwarf 3-4 in. (7.5-10 cm) plants
with narrow grass-like leaves. They also produce at-
tractive short-stemmed purple, yellow, white, or striped
cupped flowers during the early spring. There are a few
varieties that flower in fall. These corms can be natural-
ized in your lawn or planted under trees or shrubs. Plant
crocus corms in early Sept., 4-6 in.(10-15 cm ) deep and
2-6 in. (5-15 cm) apart.
Daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus)
These bulbs produce 6-18 in. (15-45 cm) plants, de-
pending on the variety, with flat rush-like basal leaves.
They also produce, in the very early spring, attractive
white, yellow, orange, or bicolored, nodding bell-shaped
single or double flowers.The Narcissus family contains
many types of daffodils, the most common being King
Alfred, a large bright yellow trumpet-like daffodil. How-
ever, there are several other varieties that grow well
here. Most varieties are suitable for forcing indoors.
Plant daffodils bulbs 8 in. (20 cm) deep and 6-8 in.
(15-20 cm) apart.
Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis)
These bulbs produce 18 in. (45 cm) tall plants with nar-
row grass-like basal leaves. They also produce fragrant
showy columnar clusters of yellow, white, pink, or blue-
purple flowers. Plant 6 in. (15 cm) deep and
6 in. (15 cm) apart.
BULBS
bulb
favorites
Grape Hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum)
These bulbs produce 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) tall plants with
long narrow leaves. They also produce clusters of blue,
white or mauve urn shaped and drooping flowers. These
bulbs are great for naturalizing, for rock gardens, or for
forcing indoors. Plant muscari bulbs 2 in. (5 cm) deep
and 4 in.(10 cm) apart.
Lily (Lilium species)
Garden lilies are one of the most under used bulbs. A
wide range of colors are now available, from the typical
‘Tiger’ orange to red, yellow, peach, rose, pink, purple,
maroon, cream, and white. Many varieties are attrac-
tively spotted. Lilies may planted in the spring or the 47
fall. Lilies bloom in the mid-summer rather than early
in spring. Plant lily bulbs 6-8 in. (15-20 cm) deep and
12 in. (30 cm) apart.
Striped Squill (Puschkinia scilloides)
These bulbs produce 6 in.(15 cm) tall plants with strap-
like leaves. They have pale blue, blue-green striped,
bell-shaped dense flower spikes. These hardy and long-
lived bulbs multiply each year. Plant puschkinia bulbs
4 in. (10 cm) deep and 2-4 in. (5-10 cm) apart.
Tulip (Tulipa species)
These bulbs produce 4-30 in. (10-75 cm) tall plants,
depending on the variety, with wide bluish-green basal
leaves. They have solitary flowers on thick upright stems
that arise from the basal leaves. The flower shape can
vary tremendously from slender and pointed to round
and open-faced. Their flowering time can vary from early
April to late May. The flowers are available in almost
every imaginable color including striped, mottled, and
different colored edges. No other spring bulb offers such
diversity as the tulip. Tulips are great for indoor forcing.
Plant tulips bulbs 8 in..(20 cm) deep and
6-8 in. (15-20 cm) apart.
 bulbsyour questions
BULBS

Q: Can gladioli be started indoors to encourage

earlier flowering?
A: Gladioli can be given a head start by planting them
in April in pots. It is a good idea to dust bulbs with in-
secticide/fungicide dust before planting.

Q: What causes white streaks and distorted blos-

soms on gladioli?
A: A small insect called thrips can cause damage to both
the corm and the plant. Dust corms prior to storing and
planting and spray for exposed thrips on the plant itself
as soon as insects or damage appear.

Q: How can one prevent squirrels from digging up

bulbs?
A: There are no absolute remedies to this problem but
by planting bulbs at their maximum depths or sprinkling
blood meal onto the soil surface damage may be re-
duced. Squirrels do not eat daffodils so planting some
with other bulbs may also help. Some have had success
with putting out a feeder for the squirrels. The animals
feed on sunflower seeds and do not bother to look for
the harder to find bulbs.

Q: Can tulips and other spring flowering bulbs be

planted in outdoor pots in the fall for bloom the
next year?
A: Our climate is very harsh, with extremely cold temper-
atures and large fluctuations when our chinooks come
48 and go. Generally speaking, bulbs in pots tend to either
freeze or rot as a result of these conditions and do not
survive the winter. Container gardening with tulips can
be attempted if you protect the bulbs from the weather.
Containers should be a minimum 14 inches across. If
possible store in a garage or other unheated protected
area. If containers are too heavy to move wrap them
with burlap and cover with snow in the winter.
Q: Which bulbs produce fragrant flowers?
A: Oriental and Trumpet lilies are very fragrant. Tu-
berose, acidanthera, hyacinth, some narcissus, tulips
and iris are also fragrant.
Q: Are tulips perennial?
A: Species tulip are quite good at coming back year after
year. Other tulips often act as short lived perennials and
do best when planted 6 to 8 inches deep in rich, well
drained soil, and fed in the spring and fall. Allow the
leaves to die back completely before removing them
since they feed the bulb.

Q: When should I start my begonias?
A: Ideally, begonia tubers should be started indoors in
March 6-8 weeks before you plan on setting them out.
Plant tuber concave side up just below the surface of
the soil (ideally sterile mix). Place in a well-lit spot that
cools overnight to about 15 degrees C.
Q: When should the flower stem and leaves be cut
down after a bulb has flowered?
A: The flower stem can be cut as soon the flowers are
finished. The leaves should be allowed to die back
before being cut. By planting bulbs around perennials
the yellowing bulb foliage will be hidden.
Q: Which are the hardiest lilies for our area?
A: Tiger and Asiatic lilies are the hardiest. Trumpet and
Oriental can do well here with a good layer of mulch
applied after the ground has frozen.
Q: Can bulbs which have been forced be saved and
forced again?
A: Amaryllis can be kept to replant for next year. Hya-
cinth, tulip, daffodil, crocus, and paper whites should be
discarded after flowering. In some cases hyacinths can
be planted in the garden in the spring, however, it will
take at least two years for them to reflower.
Q. Why can’t I plant tulips in the Spring?
A. Spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips and daffodils
must be planted in the fall or early winter to bloom in
spring because they require a long period of cool tem-
peratures. The exposure to low temperatures allows
the bulb to flower. Not only do they need to be planted
in fall but they need to be planted before the ground
freezes to develop roots.
 bulbsyour questions
Q. I forgot to plant my spring-flowering bulbs last
fall and I just found them in the garage. Should I wait
until next fall to plant?
A. No. If the bulbs are still firm plant them as soon as
you are able to in the spring. If you leave them too long
they will dry out. These bulbs still may survive and could
even flower this season if you are lucky. However, if you
leave them in the bag you may as well just throw them
out.
Q. Help! It’s the middle of March and my crocuses
have started to sprout but cold weather is forecast
for next week. Will this kill my bulbs?
A. Not usually. Spring-flowering bulbs are very tough. A
short spell of freezing weather will do little if any damage
to the leaves though it may burn the flowers. Warm snaps
during Chinooks can encourage growth but this should
not damage your bulbs either.
Q. What are species tulips?
A. These are varieties that have not been hybridized or
bred. They are basically as they can be found in nature.
As a result species tulips naturalize much more readily
than heavily hybridized bulbs. Though they are usually
smaller they are colorful and unique. Examples of spe-
cies tulips are Tarda, Kaufmaniana, and Saxatilis
Q. Which fertilizer is best for my bulbs?
A. When planting spring-flowering bulbs you can use
either a sprinkle of bone meal or commercial fertilizer in
the bottom of the hole to get the roots started. After this,
fertilize with bulb fertilizer in the fall and once again when
the shoots appear in the spring.
BULBS
Q. Do tulips prefer a sunny or a shady spot in the
yard?
A. Tulips prefer sun but can do alright in the shade. When
planning your garden late in the season remember that
early spring gardens are much brighter as the leaves
have yet to come in on the trees.
Q. My tulip has finished blooming and the leaves
make my garden look ugly. Can I cut them down?
A. No. The leaves are vital in supplying the bulb with nu-
trients and energy through photosynthesis. If you remove
the leaves you will quickly exhaust the bulb. Letting the
leaves remain will increase your chances of having the
bulbs naturalize. Plan to plant perennials or annuals in
the area to disguise the fading leaves.
Q. What is a good bulb for shady areas?
A. Most bulbs like a decent amount of sunlight but there
are a few that can adapt to partial shade.
These are glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa),
Siberian squill (Puschkina), checkered lily
(Fritillaria melagris), and some hyacinth.
Planting bulbs in shady areas greatly re-
duces the chances of naturalizing and the
amount of blooms.
Q. Will my daffodils multiply like my
tulips?
A. In optimum conditions daffodils will 49
naturalize. They will split and form new
bulbs and thus new flowers. In less-than
top conditions (ie. Calgary) the bulbs will
split into smaller bulbs and thus smaller
flowers and in poor conditions only the
original bulb will continue to flower.
Q. Why is it recommended to plant
bulbs in clusters?
A. Bulbs planted in groups of odd numbers
tend to look more natural than those planted in rows.
They will complement each other and appear to be more
or at least have a greater impact than a single bulb. Large
bulbs should be planted 3-6 inches apart and smaller
bulbs should be planted 1-2 inches apart to allow for bulb
growth.
BULBS bulbsspring flowering information
Spring-flowering bulbs bloom in March, April, May
& June and must be planted in the fall. They are
popular because they are the first harbingers of spring
time, and provide the spring garden with color and
variety. There are so many different bulbs with as many
colors and heights that combinations are endless. Due
to the large variation in blossoming periods, one can
50 enjoy flowering bulbs for many months.
Soil Requirements
All soil types are suitable for planting flower bulbs.
Only very wet soil presents problems. Before planting
loosen the soil thoroughly. Heavy clay soil is improved
by mixing gypsum, peat, or compost into topsoil.
Fertilizing
Flower bulbs don’t require extra fertilizer since bulbous
plants have storage food of their own. If the flower bulbs
are to remain in the soil for many years, application
of a slow release fertilizer in fall is recommended. A
balanced complete fertilizer (such as bone meal) is
suitable for bulbs. Additional nourishment provides
sufficient strength for flowering the following spring.
Fertilizing must be repeated every year.
When to Plant
Spring flowering bulbs are planted from September
till November, provided the soil is not frozen and can
be worked easily. Planting before it becomes too cold
provides more time for root growth.
Where to Plant
Spring flowering bulbs can be planted everywhere in
the garden depending on their light requirement: in
sunlight, shade or part-shade; in borders, around a
fence or tree. Low-growing flower bulbs look their best
in an area where they are clearly visible. Tall varieties
are best planted in the back of borders.
How Deep to Plant
The general rule of thumb for spring bulbs is that they
should be planted three times as deep as they are
high. More specifically, the underside of the bulb (the
flat side), should be 8 inches deep for large bulbs such
as the tulip, hyacinth and daffodil; and 4 inches deep
for smaller bulbs such as the anemone, scilla, and
muscari.
Watering After Planting
If nature itself does not provide sufficient water after
planting, the plants should be watered by hand. The
plants form roots quicker in moist soil, and this is
important for their further development.
Covering Layer
Flower bulbs benefit from a mulch of leaves or straw. If
the winters are extremely severe and particularly if we
do not have adequate snow cover, a protective mulch
of about 4 inches will prevent alternate freezing and
thawing which can prevent flowering.
Good Combinations
Best results are obtained by taking into consideration
heights, color combinations and flowering periods. It
is preferable to plant the bulbs in small groups, but to
avoid circles or squares, in order to obtain as natural
an effect as possible. Gardens may be provided with
long periods of color by planting different bulbs together
which have varying flowering times. Examples to try
are combinations of low-growing crocuses with late
flowering tulips, scilla with early flowering tulips, or
saffodils with Darwin tulips.
Naturalizing
Many spring bulbs are ideally suited for naturalizing,
and they provide the garden with a "natural" look when
planted in the grass, around trees or under shrubs. storage food to recharge the bulb underground. It will

Species tulips, low-growing daffodils, crocuses, snow-
drops, and scillas are very suitable for naturalizing.
Taller-growing bulbous plants (ie. Trumpet daffodils)
can best be combined with others. When planting near
trees or among rocks, always use at least six bulbs. If
planting bulbs in grass consideration should be given
to the fact that mowing should not be done until the
flowers and leaves have withered.
Among Ground Covers
Flower bulbs are well suited for planting among ground
covers. The roots of flower bulbs sit deeper and there-
fore don't rob the ground cover of food. Moreover, once
the flowers have finished blooming, the ground cover
ensures an attractive garden.
Indoors
Many kinds of spring bulbs are suitable for indoor forc-
ing, enabling them to blossom in the winter. There are
special bulbs such as the amaryllis and the paperwhite
(Narcissus spp.) perfect for providing fragrance and
color during the long winter days. Species such as
hyacinth, tulip, daffodil and crocus will require a cold
period to bloom. Please refer to our Indoor Forcing of
Flower Bulbs section.
Perennial Flowering
By leaving the flower bulbs in the ground after they
blossom, most spring bulbs will bloom again the follow-
ing year. It is important to cut the flowers off after they
have finished blooming, but leave as many leaves as
possible on the stem. The plant will receive sufficient
BULBS
then bloom again the following spring.
After the Flowering Period
After the flowering period, the choice is leaving the
bulbs in the ground or digging them up. By leaving
them in the ground a sort of naturalizing takes place.
Planting some additional bulbs in the area will create
a splendid effect. You can also dig up the flower bulbs
and plant something different the following season. To
be able to use these bulbs another time, they should
be dug up only when the leaves have completely died.
Remove the soil from the bulbs and save them until fall
in a dry, well ventilated place.
Cold Climate
In a very cold climate, sprouting bulbs can be dam-
aged by extreme weather and by sudden Chinooks. If
the bulbs are starting to sprout in December or Janu-
ary, it's wise to cover them with a layer of soil, peat
or leaves. Mulching bulbs in the fall with straw or dry
leaves helps prevent them from sprouting too early. If
it starts to get warmer more quickly than normal, the
bulbs' flowering time may also begin earlier; so you
should be prepared to cover them with sheets or burlap
if a frost is forecast.
Problems
Bulb Dust is helpful in preventing either soil insects
or disease from damaging bulbs. Gopher or squirrel
problems ( they use garden bulbs as a food source)
can be deterred by sprinkling blood meal on top of the
soil where bulbs are planted. 51
Grape Hyacinth

FRAGRANT TULIPS
If you plan on cutting tulips for indoor flower
arrangments, or want to add more fragrance
to your spring garden, here is a list of some of
the more fragrant varieties of tulips.

Angelique (Double Late)

Apricot Parrot (Parrot)
Apricot Beauty (Single Early)
Ballerina (Lily-flowered)
Christmas Marvel (Single Early)
Dillenburg (Single Late)
Keizerskroon (Single Early)
Princess Irene (Triumph)
T. tarda (Species)
 bulbsspring flowering
BULBS

all bulbs listed subject to seasonal

Crocus and supplier availability
Planting Bloom
Variety Color Height Depth/ Time Features
Spacing
DUTCH HYBRID: very large, showy flowers
Flower Record strong purple 4”-6” 3” deep/ early spring large, showy flowers
2”-6” apart
Golden Yellow rich, buttercup 4”-6” 3” deep/ early spring Heirloom since 1600; fragrant
yellow 2”-6” apart
Jeanne d’Arc pure white 4”-6” 3” deep/ early spring Heirloom: 1925
2”-6” apart
Pickwick greyish white 4”-6” 3” deep/ early spring Heirloom: 1940
with lilac stripes 2”-6” apart
SPECIES: hardiest crocus; produce small flowers very early in the spring
Advance soft yellow inside, 4” 3” deep/ early spring Orange stamens
violet outside 2”-6” apart
Ruby Giant reddish 4” 3” deep/ early spring Somewhat squirrel resistant
purple 2”-6” apart
Tricolor orange, white, 4” 3” deep/ early spring Bronze/burgundy stamens
lilac

Daffodils
Planting Bloom
Variety Colour Height Depth/ Time Features
Spacing
ROCK GARDEN
Canaliculatus white & yellow 4” 6” deep/ late spring A true miniature
52 3”-6” apart
Jenny ivory matures 12” 6” deep/ early spring Reflexed petals
to white 3”-6” apart
Peeping Tom pure yellow 12” 6” deep/ early spring Long trumpet with back
3”-6” apart curving petals
Tete-a-tete yellow with 8” 6” deep/ early spring Long lasting; good for
golden cup 3”-6” apart forcing
Thalia white 12” 6” deep/ mid spring Three blossoms per stem
3”-6” apart
LARGE CUPPED
Accent white petals with 16” 6”-8” deep/ early spring Unusual color!
salmon cup 4”-6” apart
Carlton all yellow 18” 6”-8” deep/ early spring Vanilla scent
4”-6” apart
Kissproof creamy yellow with 20” 6”-8” deep/ early spring Unusual color!
large, flat brick red cup 4”-6” apart
TRUMPET
King Alfred bright yellow 18” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring Excellent in cooler climates
4”-6” apart
Mount Hood creamy white 15” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring Local favorite
4”-6” apart

PLANTING DEPTH
Bulbs are usually planted either too deep or too shallow.
For best results, bulbs should be planted THREE times as deep as their diameter.
 bulbsspring flowering

BULBS
Daffodils all bulbs listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability
Planting Bloom
Variety Color Height Depth/ Time Features
Spacing
BUNCH-FLOWERING
Geranium white & orange 15”-17” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring 3-5 flowers per stem;
4”-6” apart heirloom 1930
Yellow Cheerfulness yellow 16” 6”-8” deep/ late spring Double flowers
4”-6” apart
DOUBLE-FLOWERING
Flower Drift white with 16” 6”-8” deep/ early spring Beautiful, large daffodil
yellow-orange cup 4”-6” apart
Ice King white 16” 6”-8” deep/ early spring Very vigorous
4”-6” apart
Rosy Cloud white petals with 18” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring Cup is double
pink cup 4”-6” apart
SMALL CUPPED
Actea pure white; 18” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring Heirloom 1927
small yellow cup 4”-6” apart
has red band
Barret Browning white with 16” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring One pretty and small
orange-red cup 4”-6” apart flower on a tall stem.

53

Pickwick Crocus Flower Drift Daffodil Carlton Daffodil

Jeanne d’Arc Crocus

Daffodil
Golden Yellow Crocus
 bulbsspring flowering
BULBS

Tulips all bulbs listed subject to seasonal

and supplier availability
Planting Bloom
Variety Color Height Depth/ Time Features
Spacing
BOUQUET
Gypsy Love Raspberry violet 18-20” 6” deep/ late spring Great cut flower
4”-6” apart
Toronto salmon rose 14” 6” deep/ mid spring Multi-flowering.
4”-6” apart
DARWIN HYBRIDS: excellent perennializing tulip; one of the best in Calgary. Many more varieties available!
American Dream yellow with 24” 6” deep/ mid spring Very showy!
red edging 4”-6” apart
Daydream apricot orange 22” 6” deep/ mid spring Unusual color.
4”-6” apart
Golden Oxford golden yellow 22” 6” deep/ mid spring Sometimes will have a red
with yellow center 4”-6” apart edge or blush.
Pink Impression deep pink with 24” 6” deep/ mid spring Favorite pink.
black center 4”-6” apart
Parade bright red with yellow base 22” 6” deep/ mid spring Biggest red tulip.
& yellow edged black center 4”-6” apart
Silver Stream creamy yellow; 20” 6” deep/ mid spring Leaves edged with pink and
streaked red & pink 4”-6” apart yellow.
DOUBLE EARLY
Abba deep red 10”-16” 6” deep/ early spring Red is a very popular tulip
4”-6” apart color.
Monte Beau lemon yellow with a 10”-12” 6” deep/ early spring New Variety
broad white edging 4”-6” apart
Peach Blossom deep rose 10”-16” 6” deep/ early spring Heirloom 1890.
4”-6” apart
54 DOUBLE LATE
Angelique soft shades of pink 14”-16” 6” deep/ late spring Fragrant.
4”-6” apart
Blue Spectacle reddish purple 14”-16” 6” deep/ late spring Interesting variety
4”-6” apart
Lilac Perfection lilac purple 16”-18” 6” deep/ late spring A favorite!
4”-6” apart
Uncle Tom dark mahogany 18” 6” deep/ late spring Beautiful, deep color.
red 4”-6” apart

Golden Oxford Tulip American Dream Tulip Monte Beau Tulip Parade Tulip

Silver Stream Tulip Angelique Tulip Blue Spectacle Tulip

bulbsspring flowering

BULBS
Tulips all bulbs listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability
Planting Bloom
Variety Color Height Depth/ Time Features
Spacing
FOSTERIANNA/EMPEROR
Easter Parade rose/yellow 16” 6” deep/ early spring Just in time for Easter
4”-6” apart
Flaming Purissima pastel white with 18” 6” deep/ mid spring Streaked blooms.
rose feathering 4”-6” apart
Red Emperor lipstick red with 14” 6” deep/ early spring Other ‘Emperor” colors are
black center 4”-6” apart yellow, orange, and white.
FRINGED lavender, wine, 20”-26” 6” deep/ mid to late spring Feathery, fringed petal edges
red, yellow 4”-6” apart
GREIGHII red, pink, 8”-12” 6” deep/ early spring Very reliable; interesting
red with white stripe 4”-6” apart mottled leaves.
KAUFMANNIANA red, lemon, salmon 6”-8” 6” deep/ early spring Striped, mottled leaves.
pink, salmon variegated 4”-6” apart
LILY-FLOWERING: more available!
Mariette deep rose 22” 6” deep/ late spring Great in south facing gardens!
4”-6” apart
Marilyn peppermint 24” 6” deep/ late spring Try with blue tulips for impact
4”-6” apart
West Point golden yellow 20” 6” deep/ late spring Named after West Point
4”-6” apart Academy
White Triumphator opens ivory yellow 24” 6” deep/ late spring Lovely pure white
and turns white 4”-6” apart
PARROT
Blue Parrot lavender blue with 22” 6” deep/ mid spring Sport of ‘Blue Amiable’.
violet hints 4”-6” apart
Estella Rynveldt deep red with 20” 6” deep/ mid spring Very good cut flower.
55
ivory flames 4”-6” apart
Fantasy bright pink with green 22” 6” deep/ mid spring Very strong fringed edges.
streaks and white flames 4”-6” apart
SINGLE EARLY
Apricot Beauty shades of apricot 18” 6” deep/ early spring Strong stems, fragrant.
tinged pink 4”-6” apart
Christmas Dream fushia pink with 14” 6” deep/ early spring Good for forcing.
large white base 4”-6” apart
Christmas Marvel cherry pink 14” 6” deep/ early spring Good for forcing.
4”-6” apart
Fringed Tulip Apricot Beauty Tulip Marilyn Tulip Flaming Purissima Tulip

Christmas Dream Tulip Blue Parrot Tulip Mariette Tulip

BULBS bulbsspring flowering
Tulips all bulbs listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability
Planting Bloom
Variety Color Height Depth/ Time Features
Spacing
SPECIES
T. clusiana red & white 12” 4” deep/ mid spring Multiply and naturalize well.
peppermint 4” apart
T. saxatilis lavender pink with 10” 4” deep/ mid spring Small, delicate center.
yellow center 4” apart
T. tarda yellow edged in 6” 4” deep/ mid spring Star-shaped flowers!
white 4” apart
TRIUMPH
Attila reddish violet 20” 6” deep/ late spring Great with pansies.
4”-6” apart
Blueberry Ripple white with purple 18” 6” deep/ early spring Exclusive to independent
flames 4”-6” apart garden centers.
Calgary snow white 8”-10” 6” deep/ early spring White as spring snow.
4”-6” apart
Francoise creamy white with 24” 6” deep/ mid spring Large, long-lasting blossoms.
ivory yellow flames 4”-6” apart
Negrita reddish purple 18” 6” deep/ mid spring One of the deepest tones.
4”-6” apart
Princess Irene orange with pale 14” 6” deep/ mid spring Fragrant.
purple flames 4”-6” apart
Rosalie two-toned 20”-22” 6” deep/ mid spring Dark purple stems.
lavender pink 4”-6” apart
Sweet Love soft pink petals with 20”-22” 6” deep/ mid spring New variety.
deep rose flames & pale 4”-6” apart
pink edges
56 VIRIDIFLORA
Deidre true green petals and 18”-20” 6” deep/ early spring New variety.
greenish white edge 4”-6” apart
Greenland soft to rich pink brushed 18”-20” 6” deep/ early spring New variety. Good cut flower.
with yellow and green 4”-6” apart
Nightrider blue-purple blooms with 18”-20” 6” deep/ early spring New variety. Good cut flower.
grass green flames 4”-6” apart

Attila Tulip Blueberry Ripple Tulip Nightrider Tulip Queen of the Night Tulip

Francoise Tulip Princess Irene Tulip Rosalie Tulip

bulbsspring flowering
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal

BULBS
and supplier availability
Planting Bloom
Variety Color Height Depth/ Time Features
Spacing
ALLIUM
A.christophii lavender 14” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Prefers sunny location.
6” apart Globes of star-shaped flowers
A. giganteum purple-blue 48” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Large globes.
6” apart
A. ‘Globemaster’ purple 36” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Ten inch flower heads.
6” apart
A. moly yellow 11” 3” deep/ early summer Multiplies quickly.
3” apart
A. ‘Mount Everest’ white 48” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Broad leaves; fluffy white
6” apart heads
A. ‘Purple Sensation’ purple 36” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Very reliable perennial.
6” apart
A. sphaerocephalon purple-red 25” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Available in single & double
6” apart forms.
FRITILLARIA
Fritillaria meleagris cream, purple and 8” 4” deep/ mid spring Delicate bell-shaped
‘Checkered Lily’ brown 4” apart checkered flowers.
Fritilaria Imperialis red or yellow 36” 6”-8” deep/ late spring Bulb gives off skunk-like
8” apart fragrance which may repel
squirrels.
GLORY OF THE SNOW
Chinodoxa blue or pink with 5”-8” 3”-4” deep/ early spring Tall plants with narrow grass
white centers 2”-4” apart like leaves and nodding
flowers.
GRAPE HYACINTH
Muscari white, blue, violet 4”-6” 2”-3” deep/ mid spring Double and single varieties
4” apart available. Naturalize well.
57
HYACINTH
Hyacinthus orientalis white, pink, purple, 8”-12” 6” deep/ mid spring Suitable for forcing; many
blue, yellow, apricot 6” apart varieties of pre-cooled
bulbs available.
IRIS - DWARF
Iris spp. yellow, light blue, blue 6” 2”-3” deep/ early spring Flowers appear before
4” apart leaves in spring. Good for
forcing or rock garden.
Fritillaria meleagris Hyancinth Allium giganteum Dwarf Iris

Allium moly
BULBS bulbsspring flowering
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability
Planting Bloom
Variety Color Height Depth/ Time Features
Spacing
SNOWDROPS
Galanthus spp. white 4” 3” deep/ early spring Available in single & double
2”-3” apart forms. Solitary, nodding
dainty white blooms.
SIBERIAN SQUILL
Scilla siberica deep blue 5” 4” deep/ early spring Multiplies readily.
3” apart
STRIPED SQUILL
Puschkina libanotica blue with dark 5” 4” deep/ early spring Hardy, long-lived bulb.
blue stripe 3” apart Good companion for tulips.
STAR OF BETHLEHEM
Ornithogallum spp. white 7” 4” deep/ late spring Large clusters of star-shaped
6” apart blooms. Plant under trees or
shrubs.
WINTER ACONITE yellow 3” 4” deep/ early spring Tuberous plants with rounded
Eranthis hyemalis 6” apart/ leaves. Solitary, bright yellow
flowers.

58
bulbs summer flowering information

BULBS
Bulbs that bloom in summer, rather than spring, are usually Tuberous Begonias
not as winter hardy as spring-flowering bulbs and cannot sur- Start tubers indoors at the end of March. Plant the bulbs in a
vive the winter outdoors on the Prairies. This group includes shallow tray or pot in any well-drained planting medium, i.e.
dahlias, gladioli, begonias, some lilies, and numerous small Golden Acres Professional Mix. Set the tubers in this mix, with
bulbs. They are often started in pots indoors, in March or April, the depression upward about an inch apart, do not cover tuber
and planted outdoors after the last spring frost. In fall they are with soil. Set the tray in an area where it will have at least 60
dug up, cleaned, allowed to dry, F temperature to break dormancy.
dusted with Bulb Dust, and stored Keep rooting medium slightly damp.
in a cardboard box or paper bag Bright light is necessary, but keep
(not plastic) containing vermicu- out of full sun and keep water out of
lite, sawdust, or peatmoss in a tuber’s depression (the hole in the
cold but frost-free place until next centre of the tuber).
spring. The inexpensive smaller As soon as the tubers are well rooted
bulbs can be treated the same and shoots are ½” or more long,
way but are usually replaced transplant into individual 6” pots. Use
every year as their size makes the same planting medium as stated
them hard to find once planted above. Fill pots without disturbing
and the cost is minimal. roots. Do not cover the tuber with
planting medium.
Gladiolus Keep the planted tubers in a warm
For top quality blooms, select area in bright light but shaded from
high crowned corms at least 1 the hot sun. Too much heat will pro-
½” in diameter. They will pro- duce long, weak growth. Feed weekly
duce a single sturdy stalk with with a flowering fertilizer diluted at
large flowers. Wide, flat corms half strength, such as Plant-Prod 15-
with hollow centres are older, 30-15 or Plant-Prod 20-20-20. They
and not as vigorous. In Calgary, are both excellent fertilizers. Plant
corms started in the house about the tubers outside after the threat
the end of April will have an ear- of frost has passed, where they will
lier flowering season then those be sheltered from wind and hot sun.
planted directly outside. They Tubers can be removed from pots and
can be planted several to a large placed in open soil, about 12” apart.
shallow pot (ice cream pails with You can leave them in their pots and
holes punched in the bottom, or plunge them into the flowerbed. This 59
large bulb pans work well) in a is sometimes preferable in case of
mixture of 2/3 potting mix and 1/3 early frost – it is easier to take them
sand, just burying the corm. Keep indoors.
slightly moist, and in a bright light TIP: Stake tall plants or those heavy
once growth begins. Placing out- with blooms.
doors when weather permits can In the fall, after a light frost, reduce
harden them off. Bringing in or protecting if there is danger of watering until the leaves die. Dig up, break stem close to tuber
frost, and planted outdoors about the beginning of June. They and allow them to dry in an airy location. Dust tubers with bulb
should be planted slightly deeper outdoors than they were in dust to prevent insect and disease damage and store in dry
pots. If preferred, corms can be planted directly into outdoor peat, perlite or vermiculite. Store in a cold frost-free room.
beds about the end of May.
Gladiolus like a sunny spot, sheltered from wind. They are Dahlias
planted about six inches apart. Fertilize with an all purpose Similar care to a begonia. Mature plants can range from a
fertilizer (15-30-15) monthly. They will bloom in late July and few inches high to several feet, so choose appropriate size
August, in a wide array of colors. for that area where they are to be planted. They are usually
In fall, after a frost, dig up corms, and cut tops several inches started in the house about the end of April, to be set outside
above the top of the corm. Keep in a warm, dry area for about after any danger of frost is past. Dahlias are planted so that
two weeks, until the tops are dry. Pull off the old corms, tops the long fingers are spread out pointing down, with the top of
and roots, dust with bulb dust (to prevent any problems with the root just below soil level, in a sunny spot sheltered from
insects or disease) and store in a frost-free cold, dry place in the wind.
vermiculite or peat moss in a cardboard or paper container. The larger types will need staking. If a stake is set in at plant-
The little “cormels” on the corms can be stored separately and ing time it will avoid possible root damage which could occur
planted next year – they take about three years to bloom. if you tried to insert a stake into the ground later.
Thrips are a problem with gladiolas. They are tiny insects, Fall care is the same as for tuberous begonias.
which leave long white streaks on leaves and distort blooms.
Dusting with bulb dust before storage and again before plant-
ing is essential. Planting in a different area the next season
is helpful if practical.
For more detailed information on summer flowering bulbs, please visit our bookstore.
BULBS
bulbsgrowing iris
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted in July, August or
September. It’s imperative that the roots of newly planted Iris
be well-established before the growing season ends. Iris are
also available as potted plants in the perennial lot, and these
can be planted in spring, summer or fall.
Where to Plant
Iris need at least a half-day of sun. In extremely hot climates
some shade is beneficial, but in most climates iris do best
in full sun. Be sure to provide your iris with good drainage,
planting either on a slope or in raised beds.
Soil Preparation
Iris will thrive in well-drained garden soil. Planting on a slope
or in raised beds helps ensure good drainage. If your soil is
heavy, coarse sand may be added to improve drainage. Gyp-
sum is an excellent soil conditioner that can improve most clay
soils. The ideal pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic), but iris are tolerant
in this respect. To lower the pH of your soil, sulphur may be
added to alkaline soils.
Depth to Plant
Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are ex-
posed and the roots are spread out facing downward in the
soil. In very light soils or in extremely hot climates, covering
the rhizome with 1 inch of soil may be desirable. Firm the soil
around each rhizome and then water to help settle the soil. A
common mistake is to plant iris too deeply.
ground, or you may dig up the entire clump and remove and
replant the large new rhizomes.
General Garden Care
Keep your iris beds clean and free of weeds and debris, allow-
ing the tops of the rhizomes to bask in the sun. Bloom stems
should be cut off close to the ground after blooming. Healthy
green leaves should be left undisturbed, but diseased or brown
leaves should be removed.
TIPS FOR IRIS GROWERS
Divide clumps of bearded iris every 3 to 5 years
for best bloom; remember they like good drainage
and plenty of sun. Clean up and burn dead bearded
iris leaves in the fall or spring to help control iris
border. Plant plenty of yellows and blues for best
visual results. Lavenders add sparkle! There are
many shorter growing iris to choose from, including
early blooming dwarfs such as dwarf bearded (Iris
pumila), arctic (I. setosa), beardless Japanese (I.
ensata) and Siberian iris (I. sibirica). Irises do not
require frequent division; many beardless irises also
do well in moist spots

Distance Apart
Iris are generally planted 12 to 24 inches apart. Close planting
60 gives an immediate effect, but closely planted iris will need to
be thinned often. Plants spaced further apart will need less
frequent thinning.

Watering
Newly set plants need moisture to help their root systems
become established. Specific watering information depends on
your climate and your soil, but keep in mind that deep watering
at long intervals is better than more frequent shallow water-
ing. Once established, iris normally don’t need to be watered
except in arid areas. Over watering is a common error.

Fertilization
Specific fertilizer recommendations depend on your soil type,
but bone meal, superphosphate and10-52-10 are all effective.
A light application in the early spring and a second light ap-
plication about a month after bloom will reward you with good
growth and bloom. Avoid using anything high in nitrogen, as
nitrogen encourages rot problems.

Thinning Old Clumps

Iris need to be thinned or divided before they become over-
crowded, generally every 3-4 years. If iris are allowed to be-
come too crowded the bloom will suffer. Some varieties may
crowd others out and disease problems may be aggravated.
Old clumps may be thinned by removing the old divisions
at the centers of the clumps and leaving new growth in the
 bulbs storage
For storage, temperatures and moisture conditions vary
for each bulb species. The following list is compiled
from the Netherlands Flowerbulb Information Center
at www.bulb.com. Some of the directions refer to
container grown bulbs and other directions for bulbs
planted out in the ground.
Achimenes - Leave in container, dry out planting me-
dium, and place at 16-21°C.
Agapanthus - Leave in container with slightly moist
planting medium and place at 2-13°C.
Amaryllis belladonna - Store in container at 13-21°C
Anemone coronaria (St. Brigid and De Caen) - Store
dry at 10-13°C. It is better to leave in the ground and
cover.
Begonia (Tuberous Hybrids) - Dig in fall, and store in
dry peat at 2-5°C.
Canna - Dig in fall, store in dry peat or vermiculite at
5-10°C
Crinum - Store in slightly moist sand at 2-7°C. If grown
indoors in a container, place in a bright room with cool
(13°C) night temperatures.
Crocosmia (Montbretia) - Store in peat or vermiculite
at 2-5°C.
Dahlia - Harvest tuberous roots in fall and store in ver-
miculite or dry sand at 2-7°C.
Eucomis - Store dry at 13-20°C.
Freesia - Store in containers dry at 25-30°C.
Galtonia - Store dry in vermiculite at 17-23°C.
Gladiolus - Harvest after foliage dies and before the
BULBS
first frost. Store dry at 5-13 °C.
Gladiolus Callianthus (Acidanthera bicolor) - Harvest
in the fall before frost, dry, clean carefully, and store at
13-20°C.
Haemanthus - Bring containers indoors and either store
dry or continue growing at 13-18°C.
Hymenocallis - If container-grown, bring indoors and
grow at 13-18°C. To store bulbs, harvest them carefully
leaving soil around the roots, and store at 16-21°C.
Ixia - Store dry at 20-25°C.
Liatris - Store in moist peat at 2°C.
Lilium - Best left in the ground, but can be stored in
moist peat at 2°C.
Nerine - Store dry or in ventilated container at 2°C.
Ornithogalum - Store dry at 21-27°C.
Oxalis- Store in peat or vermiculite at 2-5°C.
Ranunculus - Store dry at 10-13°C.
Sandersonia aurantiaca - Store in peat or vermiculite
at 13°C.
Schizostylis - Place in moist peat at 7°C.
Sparaxis - Store dry at 20-25°C.
Sprekelia - Store dry in peat or vermiculite at 5-13°C.
Tigridia - Store in peat or vermiculite at -5°C.
Veltheimia - store dry at 25°C. When in containers, take
indoors for winter at 10-16°C.
Zantedeschia (Calla Lilies) - Store dry at 10- 16°C.
Take care not to injure the storage organs.
Zephyranthes - Store bulbs in peat or vermiculite at
10-16°C. 61
BULBS bulbs summer flowering
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal
Dahlias and supplier availability
Planting
Variety Color Bloom Height Depth/ Features
Size Spacing
DECORATIVE DAHLIAS: Good garden display; excellent cut flowers.
Arabian Night Deep burgundy 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Popular deep color; rounded petals.
Duet Red with white tips 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Excellent color
Mystery Day Deep burgundy 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Elegant, slightly pointed petals.
with white tips Nicely formed flower heads.
Blue Bell Purple blue 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Best dahlia!
Bonesta White with rose veins 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Stunning presentation
DINNERPLATE: The following is only a sample of our many varieties.
Babylon Purple Medium purple up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Large, well-formed blooms.
Big Wow Wine red up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Clear green leaves; pointed petals.
Fleur Pure white up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart White
Grand Prix Yellow with up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Incurved petals give
white tips. interesting texture.
Café au Lait Creamy mocha up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Beautiful in fall arrangements.
GALLERY: A shorter variety excellent for pot, container, and garden.
Art Fair white; greenish yellow center 3” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Excellent for fall pot displays.
Cezanne Yellow 3” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Clear, vibrant yellow.
Singer Deep red 3” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Good flower form;
GIANT BALL: Rounded, multi-headed flowers.
Babette Lavender pink 5”-6” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Deep color.
Belinda Pink Soft rose pink 5”-6” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Charming in summer arrangements.
Evelyn White with 5”-6” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Bloom in abundance
lavender tips. over a long period.
Marble Ball white with purple streaks 5”-6” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Pristine.
CACTUS: Long narrow petals give a starburst cactus-like appearance.
Black Cat Dark Maroon 5”-6” 20”-50” 3” deep/12” apart Excellent garden or border plant.
62 Fire Bird Fiery red; gold center 5”-6” 20”-50” 3” deep/12” apart Tall, striking plant.
Mixed Peppermint White with rose streaks 5”-6” 20”-50” 3” deep/12” apart Extra large flower heads up to 8”.
Red Pygmy Blood Red 5”-6” 20” 3” deep/12” apart Border type at around 1.5 feet tall.
POWDER PUFF: A new class of Dahlias with soft, multi-petalled rounded center.
Blue Bayou Double purple 6”-10” 24”-36” 3” deep/12” apart Interesting color
Lambada Soft rose petals, 6”-10” 24”-36” 3” deep/12” apart Similar appearance to Scabiosa
creamy white center
River Dance Red flowers 6”-10” 24”-36” 3” deep/12” apart Exclusive to independent garden
centers.

Arabian Nights Dahlia Duet Dahlia Big Wow Dahlia Lambada Dahlia Cafe au Lait Dahlia

Babette Dahlia Red Pygmy Dahlia Blue Bayou Dahlia Blue Bayou Dahlia Bonesta Dahlia
 bulbs summer flowering
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal
Dahlias

BULBS
and supplier availability
Planting
Variety Color Bloom Height Depth/ Features
Size Spacing
WATERLILY: similar in appearance to waterlily flowers.
Le Castel White 4”-5” 40”-45” 3” deep/12” apart Traditional color
Sam Hughes Dark maroon 4”-5” 40”-45” 3” deep/12” apart Beautiful when paired with yellow.
Sympathy Buttercup yellow 4”-5” 40”-45” 3” deep/12” apart Blends with summer color palettes
IMPRESSION: single blooms with a contrasting ruff.
Famoso Sunny yellow 3” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Solid, strong yellow
Fantastico Cherry red with 3” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Red and white compliment each
white ruff other
Festivo Scarlet with gold 3” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Nice impact
BORDER: shorter plants that grow without staking.
Bluesette Purple and pink 4”-5” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Unusual color combination
Extase Salmon and gold 4”-5” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Pink and yellow compliment each
other
Begonias
Planting
Variety Color Bloom Height Depth/ Features
Size Spacing
ROSE FORM Pink, scarlet, white, yellow, 4”-5” 14”-18” Concave side up just Double flowers similar in shape to
apricot, peach, rose, salmon below the surface camelia or rose blossoms.
Picottee: Yellow with red edge, 6”-12” apart
white & pink, white & bright red
HANGING Copper, orange, pink, red, rose, 3”-4” na Concave side up just Fully double flowers
BASKET white, yellow, white/pink, below the surface Bright non-fading colors
yellow/red 6”-12” apart Plant in partial to full shade.
NON-STOP Copper, pink, red, yellow, white 2.5” 8”-12” Concave side up just Continuous bloom; early flower-
yellow/red, apricot below the surface ing. Excellent for window boxes,
6”-12” apart patios, and low borders.
CRISPA Red/white, red/yellow 3” 12”-18” Concave side up just Large single flowers with frilled, 63
below the surface ruffled edges of a different color.
6”-12” apart
CAMELLIA Scarlet, yellow, pink, white 3” 12”-18” Concave side up just Bright, clear colors.
below the surface Beautiful flower form.
6”-12” apart
RUFFLED White, copper, pink, yellow, 3” 12”-18” Concave side up just Unusual fringed flower petals.
CAMELIA orange, red below the surface Large, even blooms.
Picottee:Cream/apricot, white/red, 6”-12” apart
white/pink, yellow/red
Famoso Dahlia Extase Dahlia Sympathy Dahlia Hanging Basket Begonia Camellia Begonia

Bluesette Dahlia Le Castel Dahlia Rose Form Begonia Non-Stop Begonia Ruffled Camelia Begonia
BULBS bulbs summer flowering
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal
Gladioli and supplier availability
Planting
Variety Height Depth/ Features
Spacing
ORCHID up to 24” 6”/6” Smaller delicate blossoms; best planted in clumps.
Types available: Charm, Prins Klaus, Charming Beauty, and Elvira in shades from white to deep pink.
LANDSCAPE 36”-42” 6”/6” Need no staking; perfect for small-scale gardens.
Types available: Coral Seas (soft coral); Award (pink); Florida (yellow with red blotch); High Seas (lavender)
Land O’ Lakes (magenta with white stripes); Norseman (brilliant red); Sunbold (golden yellow); White Wings (white)
POPULAR 48”-60” 6”/6” Excellent cut flowers with large blossoms.
VARIETIES
Types available: Glowing Orange; Golden Yellow; Snow White; Vibrant Red; Deep Red; Light Yellow; Peach Parfait; Rosy Pink;
Lavender & White; Pink & Red; White & Red; Yellow & Red
DUTCH HYBRIDS 48” 6”/6” Extra-large corms; unique colors.
Types available: Flevo Eyes (white with raspberry blotch); Don Juan (raspberry red with white throat);
Flevo Safari (Crimson with white brushmark); many more varieties available.
CALIFORNIA 48” 6”/6” Large flowers in unusual colors.
NOVELTY
GLADS
Types available: Airborne (rich royal purple); Cloud Nine (begonia pink); Great Lakes (light blue); Mr. Lincoln (rich dark red);
Green with Envy (green); Popcorn (pale yellow with cream edge).
Lilies
Planting
Variety Height Depth/ Features
Spacing
ASIATIC 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” Reliably hardy; earliest of the lilies to come into bloom.
Types available: Pair of Giraffes ( orange with red spots); Chianti (vintage pink); La Toya (magenta purple);
Marseilles (pretty pink & white); many more varieties available!
ASIATIC PIXIE 12” 6”-10”/12” Can be used as an annual when planted in pots
Great in perennial garden.
Types available: Butter Pixie (primrose yellow); Crimson Pixie (bright red); Denia (soft cherry pink); Orange Pixie (orange)
64 ORIENTAL up to 48” 6”-10”/12” Large, beautifully fragrant flowers; full sun to part shade.
Favorite of florists; usually the last to bloom.
Types available: Arena (Huge white flowers with yellow markings); Cascablanca (white); Tom Pounce (pink petals with white)
Starfighter (wine red edged in white with burgundy spotting); Stargazer ( bright red to pink with white margins)
FAIRDALE HYBRID 18” 6”-10”/12” Good for pot culture; very fragrant.
DWARF ORIENTAL
LILIES
Types available: Gold Nymph: (white petals with yellow stripes and spots); Pink Nymph (pink with dark pink spots);
Red Nymph: (pink petals with white edges an dark pink stripes); Silver Nymph (bright silvery white)

Charm Gladiolus Airborne Gladiolus Flevo Eyes Gladiolus Chianti Lily Stargazer Lily

Elvira Gladiolus Green With Envy Gladiolus Popcorn Gladiolus Acapulco Lily Casablanca Lily
 bulbs summer flowering

BULBS
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal
Lilies and supplier availability
Planting
Variety Height Depth/ Features
Spacing
TRUMPET 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” Large trumpet shaped fragrant flowers.
Tolerates partial shade.
Regal’ does well in Calgary area.
Types available Golden Splendour (yellow); Pink Perfection (pink); African Queen (yellow with garnet brown markings);
Regal (white with maroon)
L.A. HYBRIDS 40” 6”-10”/12’ Combine the best features of asiatics with longiflorums
Large waxy flowers; subtle fragrance.
Types available: Fangio (dark pink); Rodeo (clear pink with fuschia tips); Royal Perfume (deep fiery red)
TIGER 36” 6”-10”/12” Garden favorites since Victorian times; very easy to grow.
Broad, slightly recurved petals dotted with black spots.
Types available: Tigrinium Splendens (gleaming salmon orange); Tigrinium Rose (rich pink with black dots);
Yellow Star (buttery yellow with black dots); Sweet Surrender (white flowers with maroon dots)
OTHER
Lilium Citronella 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” Lemon yellow with dark brown spots
Lilium Rubrum 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” White and pink
lilium Tenufolium 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” Red and orange

Other
Planting
Variety Colors Depth/ Features
Spacing
ACIDANTHERA White with purple 3” deep/ Similar to gladioli, having sword-shaped leaves and flower spikes.
BICOLOR MURILAE blotch at throat. 6” apart Originally from high mountain regions of East Africa.
ANEMONE White, lavender, blue 3” deep/ Soak tubers overnight then plant in partially shaded moist area.
pink, or purple 6” apart Many varieties
BABIANA Violet, blue, and red 2” deep/ Flowers similar to freesias; leaves and stems are hairy.
2” apart Common name is ‘Baboon Root’.
BLETILLA STRIATA White, blue, pink, 1” deep/ Terrestrial orchid; grow outside in hanging baskets in summer 65
amethyst red, purple 4” apart Originally from Asia; common name is ‘Chinese Ground Orchid’
BRODIAEA SPECIES Lavender Funnel-shaped flowers and narrow leaves; needs full sun.
4” apart Flowers after the leaves die down.
CALADIUM No flowers but 2” deep/ Leaf colors in shades of green, white, red, and pink with obvious
brilliant leaf color 4” apart veins. Leaves hate wind - plant in a partially shaded, moist,
sheltered area.
CALLA LILY White, pink, yellow, 4” deep/ Flower bract surrounds central spike covering small, true flowers.
(Zantedeschia species) rust, various colors 16” apart Requires full sun, heavy watering, acid soil, and good drainage.

Regal Lily Golden Splendour Lily Yellow Star Lily Tigrinium Splendens Lily Calla Lily

African Queen Lily Royal Perfume Lily Sweet Surrender Lily Acidanthera Bicolor Murilae Caladium
BULBS
bulbs summer flowering
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal
Other and supplier availability
Planting
Variety Colors Depth/ Features
Spacing
CANNA Orange, red, pink, 3” deep/ Large, dramatic feature at the back of a perennial bed.
or yellow 18”-36” apart Canna will bloom longer if dead flowers are removed.
CHILDANTHUS Yellow 1” deep/ Fragrant, lily-like flowers in a cluster at the top of a stem.
FRAGRANS 4” apart Prefers full sun; long-lasting as a cut flower.
COLOCASIA NA 2”-3” deep/ Grown as an ornamental for its large leaves.
(ELEPHANT EARS) 3’ apart Plant in partial shade in moist or wet soil near ponds.
CROCOSMIA Deep orange 2” deep/ Flowers on long branched stems with sword-shaped leaves.
CROCOSMIFLORA 4” apart Flower spikes make attractive, long-lasting cut flowers.
EUCOMIS SPECIES Greenish-white barely covered/ Common name is ‘Pineapple Lily’; two foot high flower spike with
6” apart small star-shaped flowers topped with bracts resembling a pineapple.
GALTONIA CANDICANS White 6” deep/ Tall spike with fragrant, bell-shaped flowers.
8” apart Likes warm spots in the garden; common name: ‘Summer Hyacinth’
GLORIOSA Red & yellow 2” deep/ Tuberous, climbing plant with tendrils on leaves for support.
ROTHSCHILDIANA one per 6” pot Prefers cool roots and moist soil. Climbs up to 6 feet tall.
HOMERIA COLLINA Yellow or peach 3” deep/ Two-inch, cup-shaped, fragrant flowers last only a day but stems
4” apart have many buds opening in succession. Full sun is needed.
HYMENOCALLIS Creamy white barely covered/ Fragrant, spider-like flowers hence the common name ‘Spider Lily’.
8” apart Best suited to a sunny spot - one plant per 5” pot.
IXIA HYBRIDA Pink, yellow, red, 3” deep/ Long-lasting flowers make excellent cut flowers.
orange, cream, white 2-3” apart Needs full sun; also known as ‘African Corn Lily’.
NERINE Pink barely covered/ Funnel-shaped flowers with six spreading segments at tips.
8” apart Needs full sun and ample water.
POLIANTHES TUBEROS White barely covered/ Waxy tubular flowers have a powerful fragrance.
5” Single and double forms available; full sun & good drainage.
RANUNCULUS White, red, pink, gold, 1”-2” deep/ Requires full sun, and good drainage; several blooms on each stem.
ASIATICUS range,bronze,picotte 3” apart Soak corms for an hour before planting.
66 SPARAXIS TRICOLOR Yellow, pink, purple 2” deep/ Small funnel-shaped flowers in spike-like clusters.
red, or white 2”-3” apart Full sun, good drainage, keep on the dry side.
SPREKELIA Crimson 2” deep/ Spectacular 5” flowers resemble a waxy orchid.
FORMOSISSIMA 2”-3” apart Full sun, ample water, and good drainage required.
TIGRIDIA PAVONIA Orange, yellow, rose, barely covered/ Many of the large cup-shaped flowers are bi-coloured with spots.
crimson, scarlet 6” apart Leaves form a pleated fan; full sun & good drainage required.
ZEPHYRANTHES Pink, white 4” deep/ Crocus-shaped flower with needle-like foliage.
CANDIDA 3” apart Grows best in full sun.

Canna Lily Colocasia Nerine Tigridia Pavonia

Crocosmia Ranunculus Asiaticus Zephyranthes Candida

 bulbs forcing indoors

BULBS
Many fall planted, spring flowering bulbs may be grown Firmly pack the soil around the base of the bulb. Keep
indoors to bloom during winter. Some of the most com- the soil only slightly moist until the bulb starts to grow,
monly forced indoor bulbs are small early tulip varieties, thereafter keep the soil evenly moist.
crocuses, daffodils, narcissus, and hyacinths. Pot these
bulbs in a well-drained planting mix and containers with Keep potted amaryllis in a cool place until their roots
drainage holes. Plant the bulbs so that they are only half are well developed. If you want an early bloom increase
covered with potting soil. Allow for 1 in. (2.5 cm) or more the temperature to 22-25 C (70-75 F) when the leaves
of soil below the bulbs. For best results plant bulbs with appear. After flower buds form feed these bulbs lightly
the same flowering time in the same container. with a complete fertilizer every two weeks throughout
the blooming season. After the flowers fade cut them off.
Most hardy outdoor bulbs require a cool dormancy Remove the stems after they die, leaving at least 2 inches
period at 3-10 C (35-50 F) after they are potted. A cold of stem on the bulbs. These plants will now produce
room or an extra refrigerator can be put into use for this large strap-like leaves. During the summer they need a
purpose. However, apples sunny location; they may be
or cabbages must not be in put outdoors. Sink the pots into
the same area since they the ground up to the rim and
release ethylene gas which fertilize and water them like
will damage the flower buds. you would any sun-loving an-
These bulbs require total nual or perennial. Bring them
darkness during dormancy; indoors before the first hard
be sure to cover the bulb frost. Gradually reduce the
pots if they are located in an watering and place the bulbs
unheated porch or daylight- in a cool dark room. When the
exposed area. leaves have withered cut them
off. Allow the bulbs to rest for
The length the cool period several months in a frost-free
varies depending on the dark place until the first signs
type and variety of bulb. The of growth appear then repot
cooling requirements for some of the popular bulbs have the bulbs and repeat the whole process.
been listed below to help you with choosing compatible 67
bulbs. Paperwhites (Narcissus tazetta)
These bulbs produce fragrant white daffodil-like flow-
During the cool period keep the soil barely moist; check
ers with very little effort at all. They cannot be grown
every week or so to make sure the soil does not dry out.
outdoors but are popular indoor-flowering bulbs. They
If the bulbs are kept too wet they can rot; dust bulbs with
do not require a cold dormancy period to encourage
Bulb Dust before planting to prevent such problems.
blooming. Plant these bulbs in pebbles in a shallow
Hyacinths can be forced in special hyacinth glasses pan filled with water to just below the top of the pebbles
which are filled with enough water to touch the base of and they will bloom in a few weeks. Since they cannot
the bulb. They will still need to be cooled in water-filled be forced twice they must be discarded after blooming.
glasses for 10-12 weeks. Some varieties are:
CHINESE SACRED LILY: white and dark yellow
Amaryllis (Hippeastrum species) GRAND SOLEIL D’OR: yellow
These bulbs, usually associated with Christmas, can be ZIVA: white
easily forced to flower indoors. They produce four to six
large flowers, 8-9 in. (20-22 cm) on thick, hollow stems
in colors of red, salmon, pink, coral, and white with pink
stripes. Name of Bulb Cooling Time (@ 3-10 C)
Crocus 5-8 weeks
Amaryllis should be planted in August to October for Grape Hyacinth 8-10 weeks
flowering during the Christmas season. Before planting, Hyacinth 10-12 weeks
soak the base of the bulb in a shallow dish of lukewarm Iris (dwarf) 5-8 weeks
water for 12 hours. Pot the bulb in rich sandy soil to which Narcissus 10-12 weeks
bone meal (or a complete commercial fertilizer (5 ml or Paperwhites See paragraph above
1 tsp) to a 6 in. (15 cm) pot) has been added. Select a Siberian Squill 6-10 weeks
pot that allows for 1 in. (2.5 cm) of space between the Striped Squill 6-10 weeks
bulb and the edge of the pot. Set the bulb so that the Tulip 10-12 weeks
neck and one half of the bulb are above the soil surface.
PERENNIALS
perennialsyour questions
Q: What is a perennial?
A: In garden centers perennials are herbaceous plants
that live for at least three years. There are however, some
evergreen perennials like bergenia.
Q: Will perennials flower the first year they are
planted?
A: Generally speaking perennials establish their roots
when first planted and flower the following year. Plants
that bloom early in the season are not likely to bloom in
the garden the year they are planted. Later blooming ones
will have more chance.
Q: When is the best time to plant my perennials?
A: Generally in Alberta we suggest planting after the May
long weekend. Planting before then increases the risk of
your new plants being killed by frost.
Q: How can I have flowers all summer long?
A: Make sure to include plants that flower in spring,
summer and fall as well as long bloomers like blanket
flowers (Gaillardia).
Q: Who decides what will be the perennial of the
year?
A: The Perennial Plant Association has a committee that
casts votes to choose one of four selected plants. Criteria
for the plants are: climate types, low maintenance, easy
to propagate, true to seed, and exhibits multiple seasonal
68 interest.
Q: Which perennials attract butterflies?
A: Asters, blanket flowers (Gaillardia), daylilies
(Hemerocallis), goldenrods (Solidago), and scabiosa
are a few of the many plants butterflies enjoy.
Q: What perennials grow under spruce trees?
A: Look for dry shade plants such as bergenia, goatsbeard
(Aruncus), lady’s mantle (Alchemilla), lamium, lily-of-
the-valley (Convallaria), and snow-on-the-mountain
(Aegopodium) and sweet woodruff (Galium).
Q: Am I limited to Zone 3 Plants?
A: No, zones are guidelines only. There are areas in your
yard that are warmer than Zone 3. You should also mulch
your plants in after the ground is frozen for the winter.
You will never know what you can grow in your garden
until you try.
Q: Why won’t my peony bloom?
A: Don’t expect flowers on a peony in an area that is too
dry or too shady. Newly planted peonies usually will not
bloom for one or two years. Peony crowns must be planted
no shallower than 1” deep and no deeper than 2” below
the surface, any deeper and they will never bloom.
Q: Why won’t my daylily bloom?
A: Plants must be established in good soil; the area must
not be too shady or too dry. Various weather conditions
can reduce blooming. Essentially, daylilies bloom better
some years than others.
Q: Are perennials considered low maintenance?
A: To some degree yes! Many should still be divided
every few years to maintain vigour. Others may be
short-lived but could be allowed to re-seed themselves.
Lower maintenance perennials include balloon flowers
(Platycodon), bleeding hearts (Dicentra), coneflowers
(Echinacea), and peonies (Paeonia).
Q: When can I transplant my iris?
A: Iris plants should be transplanted every 3 to 4 years
(2 to 3 blades per section) just after they finish blooming.
Cut away all soft and rotten pieces, divide into sections.
Replant as soon as possible, with the top of the rhizome
no more than one inch below the soil. Iris will push itself
above the soil.
Q: I have been told that my perennial needs dividing.
What does this mean and how can I do it?
A: Regular dividing of perennials every 3-4 years keeps
the plants healthy and blooming well. Crowding can often
reduce flowering. The best time to divide is early spring
just as the new growth begins to emerge if the plant
blooms in mid-summer or later. If it is spring-blooming
wait until the flowering is finished and then divide. To
divide the plant dig up as much of the root ball as possible
with a spade or a garden fork. Cut the root ball into
approximately 4 in.(10cm) pieces, depending on the size
of the clump. Plant the divided perennials at the same
depth as they were before you dug them up. Ensure that
they get constant moisture when transplanted. When
the top growth begins to show, fertilizer may be applied.
Generally the divided plant will take a year to recover
and eventually surpass its original state. However, if not
divided the plant will gradually fade over time.
Q: Is it a good idea to deadhead my perennials?
A: Removing the spent flowers or forming seed heads is
good practice for some plants as it can encourage further
flowering. If the seed heads have already formed then
scatter the seeds around your garden, some may take –
just be careful when weeding in the spring! For plants like
delphiniums, hollyhocks (Alcea), and foxglove (Digitalis),
leave the seeds to develop and soon you’ll have a thick
bed of flower spikes. These newly seeded perennials can
take over two years to become fully established.
 perennialsfavorites
PERENNIALS
Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis)
These plants produce long, lacy, one-sided clusters of
heart-shaped, rose or red-colored flowers during May and
June. Prune back the ragged foliage after flowering. The
variety ‘Alba’ is a white flowering form. Dwarf bleeding
heart (Dicentra formosa) has feathery leaves and produces
heart-shaped pink flowers during May and June. Plant in
partially shaded or shady locations with some protection
from the wind.
Elephant Ears (Bergina cordifolia)
This is one of the first perennials to emerge in the spring. It
is noted for it’s large green leaves and dainty prink flower
clusters on long slender stems. In the fall, leaves turn an
attractive reddish-bronze. They add interest to the garden
through fall and winter since this plant is an evergreen.
Silver mound (Artemesia schmidtiana ‘Silver
Mound’)
These plants have soft, fern-like silvery gray foliage that
forms a compact mound. This foliage creates a stunning
contrast in the landscape, especially next to evergreen
shrubs. They produce small, inconspicuous white or yel-
low flowers. Use silvermound as rock garden, accent,
or edging. Plant these perennials in sunny well-drained
locations.
Coral Bells (Heuchera spp.)
70 These plants have mostly basal, long-stalked, rounded,
and lobed leaves. Open flower spikes arise from the ba-
sal leaves to display tiny bell-shaped flowers all summer
long. Available with dark leaves. Plant these perennials
as rock garden or edging plants in partially shaded fertile
locations. The new varieties of coral bells can add stunning
color to your perennial beds; from the shiny black leaves
of ‘Obsidian’ to the striking bright yellow green foliage of
‘Lime Ricky’.
Daylily (Hemerocallis spp.)
These hardy, reliable plants have narrow, basal, and
arching sword-like leaves. They produce long stalked,
funnel-shaped flower clusters from July to September. The
flowers are available in a wide range of colors – cream,
yellow, orange, red, pink, purple, and maroon. Plant these
heat and drought tolerant perennials in sunny, well-drained
locations.
Hostas (Hostas spp.)
These perennials are grown primarily for their foliage
value. They form attractive clumps of large, dark green
leaves edged with broad white bands. White or lilac tubular
short flower spikes arise from the compact foliage in late
summer. Plant these perennials in shaded or partially
shaded, moist locations.
Irises (Iris spp.)
German or bearded irises have wide, sword-shaped, basal
leaves. They produce six-petalled blossoms (three upright
 perennialsfavorites
and three descending) in early summer. The flowers are
available in a wide range of colors – blue, blue/white,
bronze, pink, purple, red, white, and yellow. Plant in sunny,
well-drained, low-fertile locations.
Dwarf irises are miniature versions of german irises and
are good for rock or border plantings in sunny, well-drained
locations.
Siberian irises produce slender, delicate, blue or white
blossoms above a mass of grassy leaves in May or June
and are the most shade-tolerant iris.
Lilies (Lilium spp.)
These stately plants have narrow green leaves borne
along many thick, upright stems. They are available in a
wide variety of sizes and colors including orange, pink,
red, white, and yellow. The large flowers are produced on
strong stems, perfect for cutting. Plant these perennials
in sunny or partially shaded locations.
Peonies (Paeonia spp.)
These plants have glossy, dark green, lobed foliage that
remains attractive all summer long. During June, on the
tip of each of their many upright stems, they produce the
well-known, fragrant, double flowers in red, pink, or white.
These flowers make excellent old-fashioned cut flowers.
Plant the root so the eyes are face up and are exactly 1 in.
PERENNIALS
(2.5cm) below the soil surface. Peonies can be divided in
the spring or fall and are best left in the same location for
five years before dividing. Plant these popular perennials
in sunny, fertile locations.
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
People are falling in love with the long blooming easy-care
echinacea. Most people know this plant for its health ben-
efits, but it is also a very pretty plant! Similar to rudbeckia,
they have the dark brown centers. New varieties are be-
ing introduced faster than you can spell echinacea. Not
only are there the popular purple and white flowers we
all know, but now yellow, orange, pink and mango colors
are available. Echinacea is best planted in full sun and
will tolerate hot, dry areas. Great companion plants are
rudbeckia, salvia, and ornamental grasses.
Sedum (Sedum spp.)
This large group of succulent plants are low-growing and
mat-forming. They feature and endless variety of foliage
types and produce star-like flowers in red, pink, purple,
yellow, or white. Plant these perennials as groundcovers in
hot, dry locations. Be sure to contain roots with edging.
71
PERENNIALS

Dianthus barbatus Dicentra spectabilis Digitalis purpurea Dianthus delt. ‘Zing Rose’
Sweet William Bleeding Heart Foxglove Dianthus

Echinacea purpurea Erigeron speciosus Eryngium ‘Sapphire Blue’ Eupatorium ‘Chocolate’

Purple Coneflower Fleabane Sea Holly Joe Pye Weed

Gaillardia grandiflora Gentiana acaulis Geranium ‘Johnsons Blue’ Helictotrichon sempervirens

72 Blanket Flower Gentian Cranesbill Blue Oat Grass

Heliopsis helianthoides Hemerocallis ‘Chicago Ruby’ Heuchera ‘Chocolate Ruffles’ Heuchera ‘Palace Purple’
False Sunflower Daylily Coral Bells Coral Bells

Heuchera ‘Snowstorm’ Hosta ‘Francee’ Hosta ‘Frances Williams’ Hosta ‘Golden Tiara’
Coral Bells
 PERENNIALS
Hosta ‘Sum & Substance’ Iris germanica ‘China Dragon’ Lavandula ‘Munstead’ Leucanthemum ‘Becky’
German Bearded Iris Lavender Shasta Daisy

Lewisia cotyledon Ligularia ‘The Rocket’ Lilium ‘Lollypop’ Linum perenne

Lewisia Ligularia Asiatic Lily Perennial Flax

Lupinus ‘Russel Hybrid’ Lysimachia nummularia Malva moschata Monarda didyma

Lupine Creeping Jenny Musk Mallow Beebalm 73

Nepeta faasenii Paeonia lactiflora Papaver nudicuale Persicaria bistorta

Catmint Peony Iceland Poppy Fleeceflower

Phlox paniculata Phlox subulata ‘Candy Stripes’ Platycodon grandiflorus Primula auricula
Tall Phlox Creeping Phlox Balloon Flower Primrose
PERENNIALS

Rudbeckia f. ‘Goldsturm’ Salvia nemerosa ‘Maynight’ Saponaria ocymoides Scabiosa ‘Butterfly Blue’
Black-Eyed Susan Sage Soapwort Pincushion Flower

Sempervivum x hybrids Tanacetum coccineum Thymus pseudolanuginosus Trollius x cultorum

Hens & Chicks Painted Daisy Wooly Thyme Globeflower

Nepeta ‘Waker’s Low’

74 Veronica spicata Vinca minor

Spike Speedwell Periwinkle

PERENNIAL OF THE YEAR

Dianthus gratianopolitanus ‘Firewitch’
2006 Dianthus gratianopolitanus 1996 Penstemon digitalis
(Firewitch) ‘Husker Red’ Perennial of the Year
2005 Helleborus x hybridus
(Lenten Rose)
2004 Athyrium niponicum
1995 Perovskia atriplicifolia
1994 Astilbe ‘Sprite’
1993 Veronica ‘Sunny
2007
Heritage Perennial Profile
2003 Leucanthemum x Border Blue’
superbum ‘Becky’ 1992 Coreopsis verticillata
2002 Phlox ‘David’ ‘Moonbeam’
2001 Calamagrostis x 1991 Heuchera micrantha Introduced in 1988 in Europe, Walker’s Low
acutiflora ‘Karl ‘Palace Purple’ Catmint has become increasingly popular with
Foerster’ 1990 Phlox stolonifera each passing year due to its lovely blue-violet
2000 Scabiosa columbaria flowers and its long bloom time, attractive grey-
‘Butterfly Blue’ green foliage, ease of propagation, lack of pest
1999 Rudbeckia fulgida var. or disease problems, and low maintenance
sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’ requirements.
1998 Echinacea purpurea
‘Magnus’
1997 Salvia ‘May Night’
perennialsornamental grasses
This interesting group of landscape plants is finally being
seen and enjoyed in Alberta gardens. Ornamental grasses
are grown for their colorful or striped foliage and showy
seed heads. Grasses look their best when integrated into
the mixed border along with perennials, annuals, shrubs
and evergreens. Low maintenance designs may rely on
ornamental grasses to provide their backbone.
Blue Fescue (Festuca ovina glauca)
Cool season, ht. and spread to 1 ft., hardiness zone 3.
Clumps of fine blue grass; good color contrast plant.
Likes sun. ‘Elijah Blue’ and ‘Skinner’s Blue’ varieties are
available.
Blue Lyme Grass (Elymus glaucus/racemosus)
Warm-season, ht. and spread 3 ft., hardiness zone 3.
Outstanding bright blue foliage color. Fast spreading
clumps are aggressively invasive. Tan colored flower
spikes appear in summer. Bloom time: July - August.
Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens)
Cool-season, ht.and spread 2-3 ft., hardiness zone 4.
Perfect rounded clumps of intensely blue leaves. This
non-spreader is the best blue grass for general purpose
border use. Tan spikes appear above on graceful arching
stems. Evergreen.
Karl Foerster Grass
(Calamagrostis x acutiflora ’Karl Foerster’)
Cool season, ht. 4-5 ft., spread to 2 ft., hardiness zone
3. Stiff, upright habit. Feathery greenish flower plumes
PERENNIALS
appear in summer, then change colors until maturing into
stiff wheat-colored spikes, which provide winter interest.
Excellent specimens in borders. 2001 Perennial of the
Year.
B u l b o u s O at G r a s s (Arrhenatherum elatius
bulbosum)
Cool-season, ht. and spread to 1 ft., hardiness zone 2.
Bushy, low clumps of cream and green striped leaves. Tan
color spikes in spring. Combines well with spring bulbs.
Drought tolerant when established.
Hair Grass (Deschampsia caespitosa)
Cool-season, ht. to 3 ft., spread to 15 in., hardiness zone
4. Clump-forming evergreen grass. Tufts of delicate flowers
appear in early summer, gradually turning darker. Mass
planting for best effect. Bloom time: May - August.
Red Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum)
Warm-season, ht and spread to 3 ft., hardiness zone 3.
Airy clouds of flowers turn into red seed heads. Outstanding
orange fall foliage color. Bloom time: July - August.
Ribbon Grass (Phalaris arundinacea)
Cool-season; hardiness zone 2. Fast spreading
clumps of striped leaves; invasive; variegated varieties
require sunlight for coloration. Good ground cover
yet too aggressive for border or rockery. ‘Picta’
(Gardener’s Garters), ht. 3 ft., green and cream stripes. 75
‘Rosea’ (Feesey Form), ht. 2 ft., tricolor pink, cream and
green stripes.
 perennialsfor special situations
PERENNIALS

ALPINE ROCKERY PLANTS DRY SANDY SOIL

Anemone - Windflower Gypsophila - Baby’s Breath Achillea - Yarrow Linum - Perennial Flax
Arabis - Rock Cress Heuchera - Coral Bells Ajuga - Bugleweed Lychnis - Maltese Cross
Armeria - Thrift Leontopodium - Edelweiss Artemisia - Silver Mound Paeonia - Peony
Aster - Alpine Aster Papaver - Alpine Poppy Coreopsis - Tickseed Papaver - Iceland Poppy
Aubrieta - Rock Cress Phlox - Creeping Phlox Echinops - Globe Thistle Penstemon - Beard Tongue
Campanula - Bellflower Primula - Primrose Eupatorium - Joe Pye Persicaria - Fleeceflower
Dianthus - Pink Saponaria - Rock Soapwort Euphorbia - Cushion Spurge Rudbeckia - Rudbeckia
Gentiana - Gentian Saxifraga - Rockfoil Gaillardia - Blanket Flower Salvia - Sage
Geranium - Cranesbill Geranium - Cranesbill Sedum - Stonecrop
Gypsophila - Baby’s Breath Yucca - Yucca
GROUND COVERS
PERENNIALS FOR BUTTERFLIES
Aegopodium - Snow-on-the-Mountain
Antennaria - Pussy Toe Pachysandra - Japanese Spurge
AND HUMMINGBIRDS
Arctostaphylos - Kinnikinnick Paxistima - Cliff Green Agastache - Anise-Hyssop Hesperis - Dame’s Rocket
Bergenia - Elephant Ears Polygonum - Fleece Flower Alcea - Hollyhock Heuchera - Coral Bells
Cerastium - Snow-in-Summer Potentilla - Cinquefoil Allium - Flowering Onion Liatris - Blazing Star
Convallaria - Lily of the Valley Saxifraga - Saxifrage Anaphalis - Pearly Everlasting Lobelia - Cardinal Flower
Cornus - Bunchberry Sedum - Stonecrop Aquilegia - Columbine Malva - Mallow
Hosta - Plantain lily Sempervivum -Hens & Chicks Asclepias - Milkweed Monarda - Beebalm
Hypericum - St. John’s Wort Vaccinium - Lingonberry Aster - Fall Aster Physostegia - Obedient Plant
Lysimachia - Creeping Jenny Vinca - Periwinkle Chelone - Turtlehead Rudbeckia - Rudbeckia
Coreopsis - Tickseed Scabiosa - Pincushion Flwr.
Echinacea - Purple Coneflower Sedum - Stonecrop
SHADE OR PART SHADE Echinops - Globe Thistle Solidago - Goldenrod
Aegopodium - Snow-on-the-Mountain Eupatorium - Joe Pye Weed
Ajuga - Bugleweed Hosta - Plantain Lily Shooting Star

76 Aquilegia - Columbine Iris - Siberian

Astilbe - False Spirea Lamium - Deadnetttle
Bergenia - Elephant Ears Lobelia - Cardinal Flower
Brunerra - Bugloss Myosotis - Forget-Me-Not
Campanula - Bellflower Polemonium - Jacob’s Ladder
Convallaria - Lily of the Valley Primula - Primrose
Dicentra - Bleeding Heart Tradescantia - Spiderwort
Ferns Vinca - Periwinkle
Geranium - Cranesbill Viola - Violet
Galium - Sweet Woodruff
Heuchera - Coral Bells
Pachysandra - Japanese Spurge
Cimicifuga - Snakeroot
ACID SOIL
Caltha - Marsh Marigold Heuchera - Coral Bells
Cimicifuga - Snakeroot Lupinus - Lupine
Dicentra - Fringed Bleeding Heart Phlox - Woodland Phlox
Digitalis - Foxglove Primula - Primrose
Epimedium - Barrenwort Trillium PERENNIALS OR WEEDS?
Gentiana - Gentian Proper management will prevent certain perennials from
becoming a weed problem. Choose the right perennial for
MOIST SOIL the right place and use each plant’s characteristics to your
advantage whenever possible: ie. plant a self-seeding variety
Aruncus - Goatsbeard Lupinus - Lupine
in a natural or informal area. If you need to control self-seeding
Brunnera - Siberian forget-me-not Monarda - Beebalm
plants, deadhead them regularly and keep your soil covered
Hosta - Plantain Lily Phytostegia- Obiedient plant
with mulch. Periodic division of spreading plants will help slow
Iris - Japanese; Blue Flag Primula - Primrose
them down, as will barriers to stop invasive roots. To learn about
Lobelia - Cardinal Flower Trollius - Globeflower
managing specific perennials please feel free to call or come
in and ask questions.
 perennialsshade & part sun

PERENNIALS
all perennials listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
Z Sun ™
Names Height/ Light o Leaf Flower Bloom Soil
Spread n Color Color Time Moisture Features/Uses Part Shade »
Shade
e ˜

Aconitum cammarum 48/24 in. ™–˜ 3 green purple July to moist Bicolor purple and white flower combination.
MONKSHOOD BICOLOR 120/60 cm white Aug. soil Useful for cut flowers or border.
Aconitum napellus 54/24 in. ™–˜ 2 green purple July to moist Tall sturdy perennial looks good in large
MONKSHOOD 135/60 cm Aug. soil border. Showy spikes of flowers good for cut
flowers
Aegopodium podagraria 12/24 in ™–˜ 1 green green- July to moist Vigorous ground cover with variegated
SNOW-ON-THE-MOUNTAIN 30/60 cm white white Aug. soil foliage. Too invasive for the rock garden or
border.
Alchemilla mollis 12/24 in. ™–˜ 2 silver yellow June to well- Scalloped leaves for edging border.
LADY’S MANTLE 30/60 cm green green July drained Sprays of flowers used in cut arrangements.
Ajuga species 8/18 in. »–˜ 3 bronze purple May to moist Low ground cover with colored, round leaves.
AJUGA-BUGLEWEED 15/45 cm June soil Used for mass planting.
Anemone sylvestris 18/24 in. ™–˜ 2 green white May to well- Spreading ground cover with nodding flowers.
ANEMONE-SNOWDROP 45/60 cm June drained Good cover for spring bulbs.
Aquilegia x hybrida varies ™–˜ 2 green various May to moist & Popular perennial available in various colors.
COLUMBINE-HYBRIDS June drained McKanna Giant has long spur flowers for
cutting
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi 6/6 in. ™–˜ 2 green light May to moist Native evergreen ground cover.
KINNIKINNICK-BEARBERRY 15/15 cm pink June acidic Low growing plant for acid area under spruce.
Aruncus dioicus 48/56 in. »–˜ 2 green creamy June to moist Large plant, lacy leaves.
GOATSBEARD-GIANT 120/90 cm white July Good at waterside.
Aruncus aethusifolius 12/12 in. »–˜ 2 green white June to moist Beautiful beside a water garden.
GOATSBEARD-DWARF KOREAN 30/30 cm July soil Shorter size for a smaller garden.
Astilbe species 36/30 in. »–˜ 3 green various June to moist Large showy flower spikes on lacy foliage.
ASTILBE-FALSE SPIREA 90/75 cm Aug. soil Must have moist soil.
Astrantia species 24/18 in. »–˜ 4 green pink, red June to moist Starry flowers look like Queen Anne’s lace.
ASTRANTIA-MASTERWORT 60/45 cm white Aug. soil Use in shaded, moist area or as cut flower. 77
Bergenia cordifolia 18/24 in. ™–˜ 2 green pink June to moist Large glossy green leaves turn bronze in fall.
BERGENIA-HEARTLEAF 45/60 cm white July soil Clusters of flowers rise above foliage in
spring.
Brunnera macrophylla 18/18 in. »–˜ 2 green blue May to moist A true perennial forget-me-not.
FORGET-ME-NOT, SIBERIAN 45/45 cm June Heart-shaped leaves.
Caltha palustris 12/12 in. ™–˜ 2 green yellow May moist Buttercup flowers, heart-shaped leaves.
CALTHA-MARSH MARIGOLD 30/30 cm soil wonderful, wet, waterside plant.

Snow on the Mountain Marsh Marigold Bugleweed Columbine

Kinnikinnick
PERENNIALS
perennialsshade & part sun
all perennials listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
Z Sun ™
Names Height/ Light o Leaf Flower Bloom Soil
Spread n Color Color Time Moisture Features/Uses Part Shade »
Shade
e ˜

Cimicifuga racemosa ‘Brunette’ 72/36 in. »–˜ 4 purple pale Aug to moist Lacy purple leaves and
BUGBANE-BRUNETTE 200/90 cm pink Sept. fragrant pale pink flowers.
Cimicifuga simplex 48/36 in. »–˜ 3 light white Sept to moist White flower in the fall.
BUGBANE-WHITE PEARL 120/90 cm green Oct.
Convallaria majalis 6/12 in. ™– ˜ 1 green white May to well- Old fashioned, fragrant, bell-shaped flowers.
LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY 15/30 cm June drained Good ground cover for shady areas.
Cornus canadensis 6/8 in. »–˜ 2 green white May to moist Native ground cover with glossy leaves.
BUNCHBERRY 15/20 cm June acidic Red berries and fall foliage.
Corydalis flexuosa 12/12 in. »–˜ 4 green yellow June to moist & Long bloomer, self-seeds.
CORYDALIS 30/30 cm Sept. drained Blue species not as hardy.
Dicentra formosa hybrids 18/12 in. »–˜ 3 green white June to well- Compact mounds of ferny foliage.
BLEEDING HEART-FERNLEAF 45/30 cm red Sept. drained Luxuriant red variety blooms all summer.
Dicentra spectabilis 36/24 in. »–˜ 2 green pink May to well- Drooping chains of heart-shaped flowers!
BLEEDING HEART 90/60 cm white June drained Classic shade perennial/old-fashioned
favorite.
Doronicum cordatum 16/12 in. »–˜ 2 green yellow May to moist & Heart-shaped leaves are attractive.
LEOPARD’S BANE 40/30 cm June drained Showy daisy-like flowers are good for cutting.
Epimedium species 12/12 in. ˜ 4 bronzy yellow May to moist Rare semi-evergreen foliage in various colors.
BARRENWORT 30/30 cm green pink June soil Slow spreading ground cover for shaded area.
Galium odoratum 8/24 in. ˜–» 3 green white May to moist Whorled leaves with aromatic flower clusters.
SWEET WOODRUFF 20/60 cm July soil Excellent ground cover for moist shady area.
Gaultheria procumbens 6/12 in. »–˜ 3 green light July to moist Shiny aromatic leaves on this ground cover.
WINTERGREEN 15/30 cm pink Aug. acidic Pink flowers followed by red edible berries.
Heuchera hybrid 24/18 in. ™– ˜ 3 dark white June moist-well Leaves large and ruffled.
CORAL BELLS-Chocolate ruffles 60/45 cm brown July drained Burgundy underneath
78 Heuchera hybrid 18/12 in. ™– ˜ 2 green scarlet June moist-well Bred in Morden Manitoba.
CORAL BELLS-Northern Fire 45/30 cm mottled red July drained Flowers high over low foliage.
Heuchera hybrid 18/18 in. ™– ˜ 3 deep white June moist-well Leaves fade to bronze in Summer.
CORAL BELLS-Palace Purple 45/45 cm purple July drained Plants vary from seed.
Heuchera hybrid 18/12 in. ™– ˜ 3 white/ cerise June moist Very bright, ruffled leaves
CORAL BELLS-SNOW STORM 45/30 cm green pink July well drained
Elegans 30/48 in. ˜–» 2 blue white July moist, The original and one of the best large-leafed
HOSTA - SEIBOLDIANA 75/120 cm green well true blue hostas; leaves are heavily
drained corrugated.

Hosta Bleeding Heart Lily of the Valley Bunchberry

Sweet Woodruff
 perennialsshade & part sun

PERENNIALS
all perennials listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
Z Sun ™
Names Height/ Light o Leaf Flower Bloom Soil
Spread n Color Color Time Moisture Features/Uses Part Shade »
Shade
e ˜

Hosta var. 24/36 in. ˜–» 2 green lilac July moist-well Slow Groundcover.
HOSTA-FRANCEE 60/90 cm white edge drained
Hosta var. 24/36 in. ˜–» 2 blue white July moist-well Specimen plant. Very showy.
HOSTA-FRANCES WILLIAMS 60/90 cm yellow edge drained
Hosta var. 14/12 in. ˜–» 2 green purple July moist-well Edging plant. Fast Grower.
HOSTA-GOLDEN TIARA 35/30 cm yellow edge drained
Hosta var. 24/48 cm ˜–» 2 light mauve August moist-well Fragrant flowers. Vigorous
HOSTA-HONEYBELLS 60/120 cm green drained grower.
Hosta var. 30/60 in »–˜ 2 golden lavender August moist-well Slug resistant. Very large
HOSTA-SUM & SUBSTANCE 75/150 cm drained leaves
Iris pseudacorus 48/24 in. ™– ˜ 2 green yellow May to moist Attractive at the waterside.
IRIS-YELLOW FLAG 120/60 cm June soil Similar to blue flag Iris.
Lamium maculatum 12/12 in. ˜– ™ 2 green pink May to well- Attractive ground cover with variegated
LAMIUM-DEAD NETTLE 30/30 cm white white Sept. drained foliage.
Ligularia ‘Desdemona’ 48/18 in. »–˜ 3 purple orange June to moist Huge, rounded, purple leaves.
Ligularia dentata ‘Othello’ 120/45 cm July soil Tall spikes of orange flowers.
LIGULARIA-DESDEMONA Useful for background of border.
Ligularia stenocephala 6/3 ft. »–˜ 3 purple yellow June to moist Large, rounded, toothed leaves.
LIGULARIA-THE ROCKET 200/90 cm July soil Tall background plant with yellow spikes.
Lysimachia nummularia 4/18 in. ™– ˜ 2 green/ gold May to moist Trailing stems quickly form thick carpet.
CREEPING JENNY 10/45 cm yellow Aug. soil Used in hanging baskets or as ground
cover.
Myosotis sylvatica 8/8 in. ™– ˜ 3 green true blue May to moist Showy spring display by self seeding
FORGET-ME-NOT-Garden 20/20 cm pink June soil biennial. Used as under-planting with
spring bulbs.
Pachistima canbyi 12/18 in. » 2 green acidic Low growing, broadleaf evergreen. 79
PACHISTIMA-CANBY 30/45 cm Suitable ground cover for shady area.
Pachysandra terminalis 8/12 in. ˜ 3 green white May moist Glossy evergreen foliage for a ground
JAPANESE SPURGE 20/30 cm acidic cover. Needs winter protection on the
Prairies.
Polemonium caeruleum 36/12 in. ™– ˜ 2 green bluish May to moist Ladder-like leaflets. Bell-like bluish flowers.
JACOB’S LADDER 90/30 cm white July soil Tall perennial for a shady border.
Polygonatum species 24/12 in. ˜–» 3 green white May to moist Graceful stems add exotic touch to shady
SOLOMON’S SEAL 60/30 cm June soil area.Delicate bell flowers hang from stems.

Forget Me Not Jacob’s Ladder Bugleweed Creeping Jenny

Japanese Spurge
PERENNIALS
perennialsshade & part sun
all perennials listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
Z Sun ™
Names Height/ Light o Leaf Flower Bloom Soil
Spread n Color Color Time Moisture Features/Uses Part Shade »
Shade
e ˜

Primula auricula 8/8 in. ™–˜ 3 green mixed April moist Felt-like strawberry shaped leaves.
PRIMROSE-AURICULA 20/20 cm various to May soil Wide range of flower colors with yellow eyes.
Good for rock gardens or edging borders.
Primula denticulata 12/10 in. »–˜ 3 green mixed April moist Ball shaped flowers in white and lavender
PRIMROSE-DRUMSTICK 30/25 cm to May soil shade. Needs snow cover or mulch for winter.
Primula vialii 24/12 in. ˜–» 3 green mauve- May to moist Gorgeous rocket shaped spikes of flowers in
PRIMROSE-China Pagoda 60/30 cm pink July soil a dazzling mauve-pink combination.
Primula ‘Wanda’ 6/12 in »–˜ 2 green purple April moist Double flowers for spectacular spring display.
PRIMROSE-WANDA 15/30 cm pink to May soil Perhaps the hardiest Primrose.
Pulmonaria species 18/12 in. »–˜ 3 green various April moist Attractive spotted leaves
LUNGWORT 45/30 cm silver blue to May soil Good for mass plantings as ground cover
spots pink
Rodgersia species 4/3 ft. »–˜ 3 purple pink July moist Tinted large leaves; good as tall waterside
RODGERSIA 120/90 cm bronze white soil plant. Misty plumes of flowers similar to
astilbe.
Tiarella cordifolia 12/12 in. ˜–» 4 green pink May to moist Evergreen with bronzy winter color.
FOAMFLOWER 30/30 cm July soil Low clumps of foliage with flower sprays.
Trollius x cultorum 36/24 in. ˜–» 2 green orange May to moist Large round, buttercup flowers and cut
TROLLIUS-Globeflower 90/60 cm yellow June soil leaves. Popular in shady border or as cut
flowers.
Vinca minor 6/18 in. ˜–» 3 green violet May to well- Evergreen ground cover with glossy leaves.
VINCA or PERIWINKLE 15/45 cm white Sept. drained Needs mulch or snow for winter protection.
Viola cornuta 8/12 in. ™–˜ 2 green various May to moist Excellent for bedding, edging or rock gardens.
VIOLA-Johnny Jump Up 20/30 cm Sept. soil Needs mulch or snow for winter protection.
Viola labradorica 6/6 in. ™–˜ 4 purple purple May to moist Shorter rock garden violet.
80 VIOLA-Labrador Violet 15/15 cm Sept. soil Purple leaves and flowers.
FERNS:
Adiantum pedatum 24/24 in. ˜–» 2 light n/a n/a moist Delicate fronds turn gold in fall.
FERN-Northern Maidenhair 60/60 cm green Very beautiful.
Athyrium filix-femina 24/24 in. ˜–» 3 bright n/a n/a moist Lacy-looking frond. Creeping rhizome.
FERN-LADY 60/60 cm green
Dryopteris filix-mas 24/24 in. ˜–» 2 dark n/a n/a moist Easy, elegant fern.
FERN-MALE 60/60 cm green
Matteucia struthiopteris 4/2 ft. ˜–» 1 green n/a n/a moist Native has deciduous fronds, edible fiddle
FERN-FIDDLEHEAD/Ostrich 120/60 cm soil heads. Good ground cover for shady moist
areas.

Cactus

perennial guarantee
Perennial plants are guaranteed to start
growing the first season only.

This guarantee ends with the first fall frost.

No over winter guarantee applies to these

plants.

For more information on our guarantees

please see page 7.
 perennialsshade & part sun

PERENNIALS
all perennials listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
Z Sun ™
Names Height/ Light o Leaf Flower Bloom Soil
Spread n Color Color Time Moisture Features/Uses Part Shade »
Shade
e ˜

Achillea ptarmica 18/24 in. ™ 2 green white June to well- Similar cut flowers to those of Baby’s
YARROW-Sneezewort 45/60 cm Sept. drained Breath. Inclined to spread so good for
massing.
Achillea hybrids 30/24 in. ™ 2 green various June to well- Good for cutting fresh or dried flowers.
YARROW-HYBRIDS 70/60 cm Sept. drained Good for mass planting in the border.
Achillea tomentosa 8/12 in. ™ 2 green yellow May to well- Dwarf shorter, earlier blooming yarrow.
YARROW-WOOLLY 20/30 cm July drained Useful rock garden plant.
Aconitum cammarum 48/24 in. ™–˜ 3 green purple July to moist Bicolor purple & white flower combination.
MONKSHOOD-BICOLOR 120/60 cm white Aug. soil Useful for cut flowers or border.
Aconitum napellus 54/24 in. ™–˜ 2 green purple July to moist Tall sturdy perennial looks good in large
MONKSHOOD 135/60 cm pink Aug. soil border. Showy spikes of flowers good for
cut flowers
Aegopodium podagraria 12/24 in ™–˜ 1 green green- July to moist Vigorous ground cover with variegated
SNOW-on-the-MOUNTAIN 30/60 cm white white Aug. soil foliage. Too invasive for the rock garden or
border.
Alcea rosea 84/18 in. ™ 2 green mixed July to well- Old-fashioned favorite biennial reseeds
HOLLYHOCKS 200/45 cm Aug. drained itself. Best in back of border because of
their stature. Large blooms available in
double or single.
Alchemilla mollis 12/24 in. ™–˜ 2 silver yellow June to well- Scalloped leaves for edging border.
LADY’S MANTLE 30/60 cm green green July drained Sprays of flowers used in cut arrangements.
Alyssum montanum 8/24 in. ™–» 3 silver yellow May to well- Good spring blooming rockery plant.
Aurinia saxatilis 20/60 cm June drained Varying shades of yellow flowers.
ALYSSUM-Basket of Gold Ideal for area where cascading plant is
desired.
Anemone sylvestris 18/24 in. ™–˜ 2 green white May to well- Spreading ground cover with nodding
ANEMONE-SNOWDROP 45/60 cm June drained flowers. Good cover for spring bulbs. 81
Antennaria dioica 6/12 in. ™ 1 silvery pink May to well- Forms dense carpet of silvery foliage.
ANTENNARIA-Pussy Toes 15/30 cm June drained Drought tolerant ground cover.
Anthemis sancti-johannis 18/36 in. ™ 2 green yellow June to well- Hardy, showy members of the daisy family.
Anthemis tinctoria 45/90 cm orange Aug. drained Excellent for cutting. Drought tolerant.
ANTHEMIS-MARGUERITE Kelwayi has deep yellow flowers.
Aquilegia x hybrida 36/24 in. ™–˜ 2 green various May to moist & Popular perennial available in various
COLUMBINE-HYBRIDS 90/60 cm June drained colors. McKanna Giant has long spur
flowers for cutting.
Arabis species 8/24 in. ™ 3 green red,pink May to well- Spring flowering plant cascades over rocks.
ARABIS-WALLCRESS 20/60 cm white June drained Dead head flowers after blooming.
Armeria pseudarmeria 24/12 in. ™ 2 green white June to well- Taller border strain with various flower
ARMERIA-LARGE THRIFT 60/30 cm red Aug. drained shades. Good for cutting, fresh or dried.
Armeria juniperifolia 6/12 in. ™ 3 green pink May to well- Excellent evergreen with grassy leaves.
Armeria maritima ‘Alba’ 15/30 cm red July drained Flowers finally fade into papery
Armeria ‘Dusseldorf Pride’ white everlastings. Suitable rock garden plants.
ARMERIA-THRIFT Also called ‘sea pink’.
Artemisia stelleriana 12/30 in. ™ 2 silver well- Low growing leaves similar to dusty miller.
ARTEMISIA-Silver Brocade 30/75 cm drained Excellent for edging or as ground cover.
Artemisia ludoviciana 36/30 in. ™ 3 silver well- Silver aromatic foliage.
ARTEMESIA-Valerie Finnis 90/75 cm drained Drought tolerant plant for dry areas.
Artemisia schmidtiana 12/18 in. ™ 1 silver well- One of the most popular perennials!
‘Silver Mound’ 30/45 cm drained Fine feathery foliage forms compact mound.
ARTEMISIA-Silver Mound Good for color contrast. Soft to touch.
Aster alpinus 12/12 in. ™ 2 green pink May to well- Short plants display star-shaped daisies.
ASTER-ALPINE 30/30 cm purple June drained Ideal for front of border or rockery.
white
PERENNIALS
perennialsshade & part sun
all perennials listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
Z Sun ™
Names Height/ Light o Leaf Flower Bloom Soil
Spread n Color Color Time Moisture Features/Uses Part Shade »
Shade
e ˜

Aster-novae-angliae 48/36 in. ™ 3 green red Aug. to well- Taller varieties are excellent for cut flowers.
Aster novi-belgi 120/90 cm pink Sept. drained New England Asters are best for cutting.
ASTER-FALL purple Michaelmas Daisies are fall blooming.
Aubrieta hybrids 6/24 in. ™ 4 gray- pink, red May to well- Popular rock garden plant.
AUBRIETA-ROCKCRESS 15/60 cm green purple June drained Foliage cascades over banks and walls.
Bergenia cordifolia 18/24 in. ™–˜ 2 green pink June to moist Large glossy green leaves turn bronze in
BERGENIA-HEARTLEAF 45/60 cm white July soil fall. Clusters of flowers rise above foliage in
spring.
Campanula medium 36/12 in. ™–» 2 green purple May to well- Old fashioned favorite with big bellflowers.
BELLS-CANTERBURY 90/30cm white July drained Biennial, sometimes self-seeding.
Campanula carpatica 9/12 in. ™–» 2 green purple May to well- Cup-shaped flowers on compact clumps.
BELLFLOWER-Carpathian 20/30 cm white June drained Blue Clips’ is one of our most popular
perennials.
Campanula cochlearifolia 4/12 in. ™–» 2 green purple June to well- Alpine rockery plant with little bells.
BELLFLOWER-Fairy Thimble 10/30 cm Aug. drained Fast spreading plant.
Camp. rotundifolia‘Olympic’ 12/12 in. ™–» 2 green lavender June to well- Also called Blue Bell of Scotland.
BELLFLOWER-OLYMPIAN 30/30 cm Aug. drained Good in border or as cut flower.
Campanula persicifolia 36/18 in. ™–» 2 green purple June to well- Showy, taller bellflower blooms longer.
BELLFLOWER-Peachleaf 90/45 cm white Aug. drained Strong stems good for cut flowers.
Catananche caerulea 24/12 in. ™ 3 gray/ lavender July to well- Cut papery flower for everlasting dried
CUPID’S DART 60/30 cm green Aug. drained flower. Drought resistant plant for hot dry
area.
Cerastium tomentosum 12/24 in. ™ 2 gray white May to well- Popular spreading plant. Drought tolerant.
SNOW-IN-SUMMER 30/60 cm June drained One of the best ground covers for full sun
light.
82 Centaurea dealbata 30/24 in. ™ 3 gray/ pink- June to well- Sturdy perennial for the border. Thistle-like
CORNFLOWER-PERSIAN 75/60 cm green purple Aug. drained blooms for long lasting cut flowers.
Centaurea macrocephala 4/2 ft ™ 2 gray/ gold- June to well- Good for the back of a border.
CORNFLOWER-GLOBE 120/60 cm green yellow Aug. drained Excellent for cutting, fresh or dried.
Centaurea montana 24/24 in. ™ 2 gray/ bluish- June to well- An old-fashioned favorite bluish flower.
BACHELOR’S BUTTON 60/60 cm green purple Aug. drained Also known as ‘Mountain Bluet’.
Chrysanthemum morifolium 12/8 in. ™–» 3 green yellow Aug. to well- Hardier series of mums produces fall
MUMS-MORDEN 30/20 cm bronze Sept. drained flowers.
Chrysanthemum parthenium 24/12 in. ™–» 3 green white June to well- Mum-like daisy flowers are good for cutting.
FEVERFEW 60/30 cm yellow Sept. drained Foliage is aromatic. Formerly called
matricaria.
Clematis integrifolia 36/24 in. ™–» 2 green indigo July- moist-well Sprawls does not vine.
CLEMATIS SOLITARY 90/60 cm blue Aug. drained Dies to ground in winter.
Coreopsis verticillata 36/12 in. ™ 4 green yellow June to well- Bright daisy-like flowers are good for
COREOPSIS-TICKSEED 90/30 cm gold Sept. drained cutting. Varieties with various color shades
available. Moonbeam was the 1992
Perennial of the Year.
Delphinium grandiflorum 12/12 in. ™ 3 green bluish- June to well- Dwarf bushy mounds.
DELPHINIUM-BLUE ELF 30/30 cm purple Aug. drained Excellent for edging or massing.
Delphinium x elatum 30/24 in. ™ 3 green mix June to well- Colorful spikes of double flowers for cutting.
DELPHINIUM-Magic Fountain 75/60 cm July drained Remove old flowers to induce repeat
blooming.
Dephinium elatum 6/3 ft. ™ 2 green bluish- June to well- Tall colorful spikes of double flwers for
DELPHINIUM-Pacific Giants 1.8/.9 m violet July drained cutting. Remove old flowers to induce
repeat blooming. Requires staking. Good
background to border.
Dianthus gratianopolitanus 2/6 in. ™ 3 green pink May to well- Dwarf rock garden plant.
DIANTHUS-TINY RUBIES 5/15 cm June drained Grassy clumps of foliage.
 perennialsshade & part sun

PERENNIALS
all perennials listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
Z Sun ™
Names Height/ Light o Leaf Flower Bloom Soil
Spread n Color Color Time Moisture Features/Uses Part Shade »
e Shade ˜

Dianthus barbatus 24/12 in. ™–» 2 green red, pink June to well- Classic cottage, self-seeding, biennial plant.
SWEET WILLIAM 60/30 cm white Aug. drained Deadheading increases fragrant cut flowers.
Dianthus deltoides 8/18 in. ™ 2 green pink,red June to well- Low spreading mat forming ground cover.
DIANTHUS-MAIDEN PINK 20/45 cm white Aug. drained Varieties include popular Flashing Light.
Dianthus gratianopolitanus 12/12 in. ™ 2 green pink June to well- Flowers are sweet scented & good for
DIANTHUS-CHEDDAR PINK 30/30 cm white,red Aug. drained cutting. Popular for edging and rockeries.
Dianthus plumarius 12/12 in. ™ 3 blue/ pink May to well- Bluish grassy-like foliage forms a wide
DIANTHUS-CLOVE PINK 30/30 cm green white June drained clump. Carnation type flower is strong
mix clove scented.
Diactamnus 36/24 in. ™ 2 green white, June to well- Super plant for the sunny border.
GAS PLANT 90/60 cm lavender July drained Spike-like flowers rise above the foliage.
Digitalis purpurea 48/18 in. ™–» 4 green purple May to moist & Large showy spikes of flowers for cutting.
FOXGLOVE-COMMON 120/45 cm pink, mix July drained Biennial but self seeds.
Digitalis mertonensis 48/18 in. ™–» 4 green pink June to moist & Compact foliage. Large tubular flowers.
FOXGLOVE-PINK 120/45 cm Aug. drained Good for cutting. True perennial habit.
Digitalis grandiflora 36/18 in. ™–» 2 green yellow June to moist & Wind proof spikes of tubular flowers.
FOXGLOVE-YELLOW 90/45 cm Aug. drained True perennial habit. Good for cutting.
Dodecatheon meadia 12/6 in. » 2 green pink May to moist Delicate flowers from a flat rosette of
SHOOTING STAR 30/15 cm June soil leaves. Mass planting in shady border.
Echinacea purpurea 48/24 in ™ 3 green purple July to well- Long-lasting daisies droop from brown
CONEFLOWER 120/60 cm white Sept. drained cone.
Echinops ritro 48/24 in. ™ 2 green bluish- June to well- Globular blooms for cut & dried flowers.
GLOBE THISTLE 120/60 cm purple Sept. drained Tall thistle-like plant for the back of the
border.
Erigeron speciosus 30/24 in. ™ 2 silver pink June to well- Excellent cut flower or for summer border.
FLEABANE 75/60 cm blue Aug. drained Pink Jewel is the prettiest variety. 83
Eryngium species 24/12 in. ™ 2 green blue June to well- Prickly flowers are good for cutting.
SEA HOLLY 60/30 cm Aug. drained Drought tolerant of hot dry sites.
Eupatorium maculatum 7/3 ft. ™–» 4 purple purple Aug. to moist Large plant with purple flower heads.
EUPATORIUM-Joe Pye Weed 2/1 m. Sept. soil Attracts butterflies.
Euphorbia polychroma 18/18 in. ™ 3 green yellow May to well- Dome of leaves covered by colored bracts.
SPURGE-CUSHION 45/45 cm June drained Drought-tolerant for hot, dry location.
Filipendula purpurea 48/24 in. » 4 green white Aug. to moist Fragrant flower clusters have red stamens.
MEADOWSWEET-Japan 120/60 cm Sept. soil Elegant accent, specimen or waterside
plant.
Filipendula rubra ‘Venusta’ 6/4 ft. » 3 green pink Aug. to moist Large flowers on this bold accent plant.
MEADOWSWEET 1.8/1.2 m Sept. soil Tall plumed perennial for the back of the
border.
Fragaria frel ‘Pink Panda’ 6/12 in. ™–» 2 green bright May to well- Excellent ground cover or in a hanging
STRAWBERRY-Pink Panda 15/30 cm pink Sept. drained basket. Cross of Fragaria and Potentilla has
edible fruit.
Gaillardia x grandiflora 36/12 in. ™ 2 green red eye June to well- Daisy-like flowers with contrasting center
GAILLARDIA-Blanket Flower 90/30 cm gold tip Sept. drained eye. ‘Goblin’ & ‘Burgundy’ are two cultivars.
Gentiana septemfida 8/24 in. » 2 green true July to moist One of the easier gentians to grow.
GENTIAN-SEVEN-LOBED 20/60 cm blue Sept. soil Plants clump & are good for edging.
Gentiana acaulis 4/12 in. »™ 2 green true May moist Low growing creeping mat is good for
GENTIAN-STEMLESS 10/30 cm blue soil rockery. Light blue flowers in springtime.
Geranium sanguineum 18/18 in. ™–» 3 green white June to well- Low spreading mound of finely cut leaves.
GERANIUM-Blood Cranesbill 45/45 cm pink, red Aug. drained Useful ground cover available in a few
colors.
Geranium dalmaticum 4/6 in. ™–» 3 green pink May to well- Alpine rock garden plant.
GERANIUM-DALMATIAN 10/15 cm July drained Dense mounding foliage turns red in fall.
PERENNIALS
perennialsshade & part sun
all perennials listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
Z Sun ™
Names Height/ Light o Leaf Flower Bloom Soil
Spread n Color Color Time Moisture Features/Uses Part Shade »
Shade
e ˜

Geranium macrorrhizum 18/18 in. ™–» 2 green pink June to well- Fragrant leaves form dense ground cover.
GERANIUM-INGWERSEN 45/45 cm July drained Heat tolerant. Good fall foliage color.
Geranium x Johnson Blue 24/24 in. ™–» 2 green blue- June to well- Popular geranium with large bluish flowers.
GERANIUM-Johnson Blue 60/60 cm violet Aug. drained Good vigorous border plant type.
Geranium endressii 24/24 in. ™–» 3 green pink- June to well- Good vigorous ground cover.
GERANIUM-Wargrave Pink 60/60 cm salmon Aug. drained Shiny evergreen leaves.
Geum x ‘Borisii’ 12/12 in. ™–» 3 green orange May to well- Rare, bright orange flowers good for cutting.
GEUM-DWARF AVENS 30/30 cm June drained Compact plant for edging or rockery.
Goniolimon tataricum 16/12 in. ™ 2 green light July to well- Grown for cut or everlasting dried flowers.
STATICE-GERMAN 40/30 cm pink Aug. drained Foliage forms basal rosette of leaves.
Gypsophila paniculata 36/24 in. ™–» 2 green white June to well- Bristol Ferry is a suggested variety.
BABY’S BREATH 90/60 cm pink July drained Delicate flowers for fresh or dried bouquets.
Gypsophila repens 6/24 in. ™–» 2 green white June to well- Low creeping mat for edging or rock
BABY’S BREATH - Creeping 15/60 cm pink July drained gardens. Misty clouds of blooms.
Helenium autumnale 48/24 in. ™ 3 green yellow July to well- Bright daisy-like flowers excellent for cutting
HELENIUM-SNEEZEWEED 120/60 cm red Aug. drained Moisture loving plant for the summer border.
Heliopsis helianthoides 48/24 in. ™ 2 green yellow July to well- Large, long blooming, daisy-like flowers.
HELIOPSIS-False Sunflower 120/60 cm Sept. drained Strong sturdy stems are good for cutting.
Helianthemum nummularium 12/24 in. ™ 4 gray- various June to well- Available in single or double flowering
ROCK or SUN ROSE 30/60 cm green Sept. drained forms. Good for edging and rockery. Mulch
in winter.
Hesperis matronalis 36/12 in. ™–» 2 green purple June to well- Fragrant flowers resemble Summer Phlox.
SWEET ROCKET 90/30 cm July drained Old-fashioned garden plant for the border.
Hemerocallis x hybrida 36/24 in. ™–» 2 green various July to well- Plants form sturdy clumps of grassy foliage.
DAYLILY 90/60 cm Aug. drained Lily shaped flowers bloom in long
succession.
84 Hemerocalis var. 16/16 in. ™–» 2 green canary June- well- Prolific repeat bloomer.
DAYLILLY-HAPPY RETURNS 40/40 cm yellow Sept. drained Flowers have slight fragrance
Hemerocallis ‘Stella D’Oro’ 18/18 in. ™–» 2 green yellow June to well- Popular compact dwarf.
DAYLILY-STELLA D’ORO 45/45 cm Sept. drained Longer blooming period.
Heuchera hybrid 24/18 in. ™–» 3 dark white June moist-well Leaves large and ruffled.
CORAL BELLS-Chocolate ruffles 60/45 cm brown July drained Burgundy underneath
Heuchera hybrid 18/12 in. ™–» 2 green scarlet June moist-well Bred in Morden Manitoba.
CORAL BELLS-Northern Fire 45/30 cm mottled red July drained Flowers high over low foliage.
Heuchera hybrid 18/18 in. ™–» 3 deep white June moist-well Leaves fade to bronze in Summer.
CORAL BELLS-Palace Purple 45/45 cm purple July drained Plants vary from seed.
Heuchera hybrid 18/12 in. ™–» 3 white/ cerise June moist-well Very bright, ruffled leaves
CORAL BELLS-SNOW STORM 45/30 cm green pink July drained
Iberis sempervirens 10/36 in. »–˜ 3 green white May to well- Evergreen foliage forms compact ground
IBERIS-CANDY TUFT 25/90 cm June drained cover. Good for rock gardens or front of
border.
Iris setosa 8/12 in. ™ 2 green lavender May to well- Compact clump with narrow leaves.
IRIS-ARCTIC 20/30 cm June drained Hardy species for edging border.
Iris pumila 8/12 in. ™ 2 green purple May to well- Old-fashioned favorite flower in showy
IRIS-DWARF BEARDED 20/30 cm pink June drained display. Available in separate colors &
yellow named varieties. Also varieties available as
white bare root rhizome in the bulb department in
August.
Iris germanica 30/18 in. ™ 3 green purple May to well- Old-fashioned favorite flower in showy
IRIS-GERMAN BEARDED 75/45 cm pink June drained display. Available in separate colors &
yellow named varieties. Also varieties available as
bronze bare root rhizome in the bulb department in
August.
 perennialsshade & part sun

PERENNIALS
all perennials listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
Z Sun ™
Names Height/ Light o Leaf Flower Bloom Soil
Spread n Color Color Time Moisture Features/Uses Part Shade »
e Shade ˜
Iris ensata 48/18 in. ™–» 4 green various June to moist Flowers appear on top of tall grassy clumps.
IRIS-JAPANESE 120/45 cm July soil Suitable waterside plant.
Iris sibirica 36/24 in. ™ 2 green purple May to well- Clumps of grassy leaves look good all
IRIS-SIBERIAN 90/60 cm white June drained summer. Delicate looking flowers for cutting.
Iris pallida 24/12 in. ™ 3 gold- lavender June to well- Grown for attractive striped foliage.
IRIS-SWEET 60/30 cm green July drained Edging border plant.
Iris pseudacorus 48/24 in. ™–˜ 2 green yellow May to moist Attractive at the waterside.
IRIS-YELLOW FLAG 120/60 cm June soil Similar to blue flag Iris.
Lamium maculatum 12/12 in. ™ 2 green pink May to well- Attractive ground cover with variegated
LAMIUM-DEAD NETTLE 30/30 cm white white Sept. drained foliage.
silver
Lathyrus latifolius 8/1 ft. ™ 3 green pink- June to well- Native wildflower used as dried everlasting.
PEA-SWEET-Perennial 240/30 cm purple Sept. drained Good fresh cut flower.
Lavandula angustifolia 16/24 in. ™ 4 gray pink June to well- Fragrant flower spikes & foliage.
LAVENDER-MUNSTEAD 40/60 cm purple Aug. drained Suitable for the herb garden.
Leontopodium alpinum 6/10 in. ™ 3 gray white June to well- Well known rockery plant from Swiss alps.
EDELWEISS 15/25 cm July drained Woolly flowers used for dried arrangements.
Leucanthemum X superbum 24/18 in. ™–» 3 green white June to well- Several cultivars available; not The Ox-eye
SHASTA DAISY-’Alaska’ 60/45 cm Sept. drained Daisy. White Daisies with yellow centers
good to cut.
Lewisia cotyledon 12/6 in. ™–» 3 green pink May to well- Unique alpine rockery plant requires
LEWISIA 30/15 cm July drained drainage. Evergreen rosette of fleshy
foliage.
Liatrus spicata 36/18 in. ™ 2 green white July to well- Popular as cut flower for tall long lasting
LIATRUS-BLAZING STAR 90/45 cm purple Sept. drained spikes! Beautiful border plant.
Lilium x hybrida 48/12 in. »™ 2 green wide June to well - Hardier & easier to grow than Oriental or
LILY-ASIATIC 120/30 cm range July drained Tiger. Excellent long lasting cut flower.
85
Lilium x hybrids 72/18 in. »™ 4 green pink, red Aug. to well- Late blooming, fragrant, star-shaped
LILY-ORIENTAL 200/45 cm white Sept. drained flowers. Mulching recommended for winter
protection.
Lilium lancifolium 60/18 in. »™ 2 green orange June to well- Old-fashioned favorite perennial.
LILY-TIGER 150/45 cm July drained Superb strong stemmed cut flower.
Limonium latifolium 30/24 in. ™ 2 green lavender June to well- Grown for cut or everlasting dried flowers.
STATICE-Sea Lavender 75/60 cm Aug. drained Drought-tolerant perennial border plant.
Linum perenne 18/12 in. ™–» 2 green blue May to well- Linear leaves with continual blooms.
FLAX-PERENNIAL 45/30 cm white Aug. drained Sapphire Blue or Diamond White.
Lupinus x ‘Russell Hybrid’ 36/24 in. ™–» 3 green purple June to well- Tall spikes of flowers are good for cutting.
Lupinus x ‘Gallery Series’ 90/60 cm pink Aug. drained Old-fashioned favorite perennial. Dwarf
LUPINE yellow series available in mix of various colors.
Lysimachia clethroides 36/36 in. »™ 2 green white July to moist Unique flower spikes bend like a
LOOSESTRIFE-Gooseneck 90/90 cm Aug. soil gooseneck. Foliage has good fall color.
Lychnis species 15/12 in. ™ 3 gray- pink May to well- Self-seeding alpine rockery plants. All
CAMPION-Arctic, Moss, Rose 38/30 cm green Sept. drained arctic, moss & rose species need drainage.
Lychnis chalcedonica 48/12 in. ™ 2 green red June to well- Old fashioned, long-lived, hardy tall plant.
MALTESE CROSS 120/30 cm Aug. drained Red flower clusters for cutting or in border.
Lysimachia punctata 36/24 in. »™ 2 green yellow June to well- Upright bushy clumps form a large patch.
LOOSESTRIFE-YELLOW 90/60 cm Aug. drained Star shaped flowers appear in leafy spikes.
Macleaya cordata 6/2 ft. ™–» 2 blue- cream July to moist Colorful lobed leaves with cream flower
POPPY-PLUME 200/60 cm green Aug. soil plumes. Giant unique background plant.
Malva moschata 36/18 in. ™–» 3 green pink July to well- Satiny pink flowers like little Hollyhock.
MALLOW-MUSK 90/45 cm Sept. drained Musky scented leaves for back of border.
Monarda didyma 36/18 in. ™ 3 green purple June to moist Tall plants with aromatic mint-like foliage.
BEEBALM-BERGAMOT 90/45 cm pink, red July soil Thistle-flowers attract bees and butterflies.
white Plants are good in border or for cutting.
PERENNIALS
perennialsshade & part sun
all perennials listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
Z Sun ™
Names Height/ Light o Leaf Flower Bloom Soil
Spread n Color Color Time Moisture Features/Uses Part Shade »
Shade
e ˜

Myosotis sylvatica 8/8 in. ™–˜ 3 green true blue May to moist Showy spring display by self seeding
FORGET-ME-NOT-Garden 20/20 cm pink June soil biennial. Used as under-planting with spring
bulbs.
Oenothera missourensis 12/12 in. ™ 3 green yellow June to well- Papery flowers open during daytime.
Oenothera fruticosa 30/30 cm Aug. drained Drought tolerant of hot dry areas.
SUNDROPS/EVENING PRIMROSE Fruticosa has red stems and buds.
Paeonia hybrids 36/36 in. ™ 2 green pink June well- Old-fashioned favorite with double flowers.
PEONY-DOUBLE 90/90 cm red drained Use rings or hoops to support large flowers.
white Longest lived & largest flowering perennial!
Paeonia tenuifolia ‘Pena 18/12 in. ™ 2 green red June well- Rare plant with finely cut leaves.
PEONY-FERNLEAF’ 45/30 cm drained Delicate double flowers.
Papaver alpinum 8/6 in. ™ 3 green mixed May to well- Dainty poppies with lacy leaves for the
POPPY-ALPINE 20/15 cm Aug. drained rockery. Yellow, orange, pink & white
flowers shades.
Meconopsis sp. 48/24 in. »–˜ 5 green blue July moist,well- Needs winter protection.
POPPY-BLUE HIMALAYAN 120/60 cm drained,acid Prefers shelter from wind.
Papaver nudicaule 18/12 in. ™–˜ 2 green mixed May to well- Papery yellow, orange, pink & white flowers!
POPPY-ICELAND 45/30 cm Sept. drained Short lived plants but they reseed readily.
Papaver orientale 36/24 in. ™ 2 green pink, red May to well- Huge flowers and hairy foliage are showy.
POPPY-ORIENTAL 90/60 cm orange July drained Excellent border perennial or cut flower!
Penstemon hybrids 36/24 in. ™ 4 green various May to well- Showy tubular flower spikes like snapdragon
PENSTEMON-Beard-tongue 90/60 cm Aug. drained Taller varieties make good cut flowers.
Persicaria affine 8/24 in. ™–» 3 green red- June to well- Low mat of leathery leaves turn red in fall.
FLEECEFLOWER-DWARF 20/60 cm pink Aug. drained Short spikes of flowers fade to pink.
Physostegia virginiana 48/24 in. ™–» 2 green pink July to moist Tubular flower spikes make great cut
OBEDIENT PLANT 120/60 cm white Sept. soil flowers. Useful background plant.
86 Platycodon grandiflorus 30/24 in. ™–» 3 green purple June to well- Inflated buds pop into balloon-like flowers!
BALLOON FLOWER 75/60 cm white Aug. drained Similar to Campanula (Bellflower)
Phlox douglasii 5/18 in ™ 2 green pink, red May well- Exotic woody shrub with spectacular
Phlox subulata 12/45 cm white drained flowers. Excellent edging & rockery plant.
PHLOX-Creeping or Moss lavender Crackerjack is a very popular variety.
Phlox maculata 36/24 in. ™–» 3 green pink June to moist & Evergreen ground cover with spring flowers.
PHLOX-MEADOW 90/60 cm white Aug. drained Flowers are fragrant and good for cutting.
Phlox paniculata 48/30 in. ™ 3 green various July to moist & Showy clusters of spectacular flowers.
PHLOX-Tall or Garden 120/75 cm Sept. drained Wide range of colors for the border.
Excellent fragrant cut flowers.
Potentilla neum ‘Nana’ 4/12 in. ™ 3 green yellow May to well- Low non-spreading alpine rockery plant.
POTENTILLA-ALPINE 10/30 cm June drained Buttercup flowers on compact mound.
Potentilla nepalensis 12/12 in. ™ 2 green red- June to well- Melon red flowers with darker pink centre.
POTENTILLA-Miss Willmott 30/30 cm pink Sept. drained Shear plants back after first flush of flowers.
Perovskia atriplicifolia 4/2 ft. ™ 4 gray- blue- July to well- Long bloomers with Black-eyed Susan
RUSSIAN SAGE 120/60 cm green violet Sept. drained flowers. Perennial Plant of the Year in 1995.
Pulsatilla vulgaris 12/12 in. ™–˜ 2 green purple April well- Early bloomer with a prairie crocus type
ANEMONE-Pasque Flower 30/30 cm red to May drained bloom.
Rheum X hybridum 3/3 ft. ™–» 2 green white May to well- Hardy perennial vegetable with large leaves.
RHUBARB 1/1 m. Sept. drained Sour edible stalks for pies or wine.
Rudbeckia fulgida goldsturm 36/18 in. ™ 3 green yellow/ July to well- Long blooming flowers; Hirta hybrids
BLACK-EYED SUSAN 90/45 cm orange Sept. drained self-seed.
Rudbeckia nitida 6/3 ft. ™ 2 green yellow July to well- Enormous plant suitable for back of border.
RUDBECKIA-Gloriosa Daisy 200/90 cm Sept. drained Herbstonne has drooping daisies.
Sagina subulata 2/12 in. » 4 green white May to moist & Creeping moss-like ground cover forms
Sagina subulata ‘Aurea’ 5/30 cm gold June well- carpet. Good between paving stones.
MOSS-IRISH & SCOTCH drained Tiny white, star-like flowers. Mulch in winter.
 perennialsshade & part sun

PERENNIALS
all perennials listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
Z Sun
Names Height/ Light o Leaf Flower Bloom Soil ™

Spread n Color Color Time Moisture Features/Uses Part Shade »

e Shade ˜
Salvia nemerosa 24/24 in. ™ 3 gray- pink June to well- Scented spikes of flowers.
SALVIA-SAGE 60/60 cm green violet Aug. drained Drought tolerant.
Salvia nemerosa ‘May Night’ 24/24 in. ™ 3 gray- indigo- May to well- Perennial Plant of the Year 1997.
SALVIA-MAY NIGHT 60/60 cm green violet July drained Aromatic leaves and spike-like flowers.
Saponaria ocymoides 8/18 in. ™ 2 green pink May to well- Most vigorous trailing rockery or edging
SOAPWORT-ROCK 20/45 cm June drained plant. Useful for cascading over rocks and
slopes.
Saxifraga arendsii 8/12 in. » 4 green red, pink May to moist & Cup shaped flowers on short stems.
SAXIFRAGE-MOSSY 20/30 cm white June drained Excellent evergreen rock garden plant.
Saxifraga urbium 6/12 in. » 4 green light May to moist & Low growing alpine rockery plant. Short
SAXIFRAGE-London Pride 15/30 cm pink June drained stems of small light pink flowers in spring.
Scabiosa caucasia 30/18 in. ™ 2 green white June to well- Ideal for edging along a shady border.
PINCUSHION FLOWER-DWARF 75/45 cm Aug. drained Strong stems for long lasting cut flowers.
Scabiosa columbaria 18/12 in. ™ 3 green lavender June to well- Large globe shaped continuous flowers.
PINCUSHION FLOWER 45/30 cm blue Aug. drained Perennial of the Year 2000.
Sedum x species 6/18 in. ™ 3 green various June to well- Fleshy succulent plants with various colors.
SEDUM-Dwarf Stonecrop 15/45 cm purple yellow Aug. drained Spreading, drought tolerant ground covers.
Sedum spectabile 24/24 in. ™ 3 green pink Aug. to well- Succulent plants with upright growth habit.
SEDUM-Tall Stonecrop 60/60 cm Sept. drained Autumn Joy and Brilliant provide pink fall
color.
Sedum spurium 6/18 in. ™ 3 green various June to well- Succulent evergreen ground cover.
SEDUM-Dragon’s Blood 15/45 cm red Aug. drained Various colored flowers and foliage.
Sempervivum x Hybrids 6/12 in. ™–» 2 green pink June to well- Succulents with evergreen rosettes of
HENS AND CHICKS 15/30 cm purple red Aug. drained leaves. Useful for edging & rock gardens.
gray Star shaped flowers rise up on stalks.
Sidalcea malviflora x cultorum 36/18 in. ™–» 4 green pink June to well- Elegant long spikes of satiny flowers for
MALLOW-Prairie/Checker 90/45 cm Aug. drained cutting. Party Girl is a mixture of various 87
pink shades.
Solidago species 36/12 in. ™–» 2 green gold- Aug. well- Cultivated native wild flower.
GOLDENROD 90/30 cm yellow drained Golden-yellow flower plumes.
Stachys byzantina 18/12 in. ™–» 3 silver pink June well- Spreading mat of silver woolly leaves.
LAMB’S EAR 45/30 cm drained Drought tolerant edging plant or ground
cover.
Tanacetum coccineum 30/18 in. ™ 2 green rose- June to well- Old-fashioned cut flower with ferny foliage.
PAINTED DAISY/Pyrethrum 75/45 cm pink July drained Deadhead regularly to increase flowering.
Thalictrum aquilegifolium 36/24 in. ™–» 3 green mauve May to moist Cut leaves closely resemble Columbine.
MEADOW RUE 90/60 cm white June soil Fluffy flower sprays are used for cutting.
Thalictrum delavayi 60/24 in. ™–» 3 green purple June to moist Airy sprays of double flowers & lacy foliage.
MEADOW RUE-Double 150/60 cm Aug. soil Tall background plant for cutting.
Thymus x citriodorus 6/12 in. ™ 3 gold red June to well- Aromatic, excellent edging or rockery plants
Thymus praecox 15/30 cm silver lavender July drained Lemon thyme has lemon scented leaves.
Thymus pseudolanuginosus green white Creeping thyme is a good ground cover.
Thymus serpyllum gray pink Woolly thyme forms a vigorous mat.
THYMUS-THYME green purple Mother-of-thyme is a much loved carpeter.
Tradescantia X andersoniana 24/24 in. ™–» 3 green various June to moist Grassy foliage with showy triangular
SPIDERWORT 60/60 cm Aug. soil flowers.Plant in diagonal drifts in the border.
Verbascum phoeniceum 48/12 in. ™ 4 silver mixed June to well- Unique daisy flowers with red on the back.
MULLEIN-PURPLE 120/30 cm Aug. drained Suitable for grouping in the border.
Veronica allioni 6/12 in. ™–» 2 green blue- June to well- Attractive compact flower spikes.
VERONICA-Alpine 15/30 cm violet Aug. drained Excellent edging or alpine rockery plant.
Veronica repens 2/12 in. ™–» 2 gray- white May to well- Low creeping carpet with spring flowers.
VERONICA-CREEPING 5/30 cm green June drained Good ground cover or rock garden plant.
Veronica spicata 24/12 in. ™ 2 green blue June to well- Border plant with long-lasting flower spikes.
VERONICA-Spike Speedwell 60/30 cm pink Aug. drained Red Fox is good for cut flowers.
PERENNIALS
perennialsshade & part sun
Z Sun ™
Height/ Light o Leaf Flower Bloom Soil
Names Spread n Color Color Time Moisture Features/Uses Part Shade »
Shade
e ˜

Veronica spicata incana 18/18 in. ™ 2 silver blue- June to well- Silver woolly foliage with flower spikes.
VERONICA-WOOLLY 45/45 cm violet July drained Excellent for edging or mass planting in
border.
Veronica ‘Sunny Border Blue’ 24/12 in. ™ 3 green blue June to well- 1993 Perennial Plant of the Year.
VERONICA-Sun. Border Blue 60/30 cm Sept. drained Long blooming spikes for cut flowers.
Yucca glauca 24/18 in. ™ 3 green white July well- Succulent, evergreen, narrow, stiff leaves.
YUCCA 60/45 cm drained Native. Extremely drought tolerant in hot,

perennialsgrasses
dry, sun area.

Z Sun ™
Height/ Light o Leaf Flower Bloom Soil
Spread n Color Color Time Moisture Features/Uses Part Shade »
Names e Shade ˜

Arrhenatherum bulbosum 18/12 in. ™–» 3 cream tan June well- Clumps of cream & green striped leaves.
‘Variegatus’ 45/30 cm green drained Combines well with bulbs in spring.
GRASS-BULBOUS OAT Variegated form is a colorful variety.
Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’ 42/24 in. ™–» 3 white gold June to well- Foliage is boldly striped in white and green.
GRASS - KARL FOERSTER 100/60 cm green Sept. drained Perennial Plant of the Year 2001
Festuca glauca 12/12 in. ™–» 3 blue tan May to well- Clump forming with fine textured leaves.
GRASS-BLUE FESCUE 30/30 cm June drained Elijah Blue is the best & brightest selection.
Helictotrichon sempervirens 36/24 in. ™ 3 blue tan May to well- Round clump of intense blue leaves.
GRASS-BLUE OAT 90/60 cm July drained Evergreen cool-season grass.
Panicum virgatum 36/24 in. ™ 3 green white July to well- Airy flowers turn into red seed heads.
GRASS-RED SWITCH 90/60 cm Aug. drained Outstanding orange fall foliage color.
Phalaris arundinacea 36/24 in. ™ 2 white tan June to moist & Spreading clumps striped with various
GRASS-RIBBON 90/60 cm green July drained colors. Useful, hardy ground cover.
88
perennialsclematis photos

PERENNIALS
Warsaw Nike Edvard Andre

Alpine Odorata Nelly Moser Rouge Cardinal

89

Tangutica Ville de Lyon

Jackmanii Romantika Zoin

PERENNIALS perennials vines
Sun ™
Names Height Spread Light Zone Pruning Flower Features
Part Shade »
Group Color Shade ˜

Celastrus scandens 7 ft. 3 ft. ™» 4 n/a White Produces red seed capsules in fall if both male
AMERICAN BITTERSWEET 2 m. 1 m. (Hercules)and female(Diana) plants are planted.
Clematis alpina 'Odorata' 7ft 3ft ™» 3 A Blue Mid to light blue, scented flowers
CLEMATIS - Odorata 2m 1m Flowers early in year; attractive seed heads
Clematis Inspiration 'Zoin' 7 ft 3ft ™» 3 C Dark Blue Dark blue variety of 'Inspiration'
CLEMATIS - Zoin 2m 1m Blooms later in season; good for cut flowers
Clematis integrifolia 'Blueboy' 7 ft. 3 ft. ™» 3 C Blue Steel blue, nodding flowers in summer.
CLEMATIS - Blueboy 2 m. 1 m. Clematis cross bred in Morden, Manitoba.
Clematis 'Jackmanii' 10 ft. 3 ft. ™» 3 C Purple Purple flowers in summer on current, new wood.
CLEMATIS - Jackman 3 m. 1 m. Popular cultivar. Prune to ground level in spring.
Clematis jackmanii 'Romantika' 9 ft 3ft ™» 3 C Dark Blue New variety from the Soviet Union
CLEMATIS - Romatika 3m 1m Light foliage compliments dark blooms
Clematis macropetala 'Bluebird' 10 ft. 3 ft. ™» 3 A Blue Lavender blue flowers in May on one yr. old wood.
CLEMATIS - Bluebird 3 m. 1 m. Big petal Clematis bred for Canadian Prairies.
Clematis 'Rouge Cardinal' 10 ft. 3 ft. ™» 3 C Red Cardinal crimson flowers in summer on new
CLEMATIS - Rouge Cardinal 3 m. 1 m. wood.
Clematis tangutica 10 ft. 3 ft. ™» 2 C Golden Golden yellow, nodding flowers on new wood.
CLEMATIS - Golden 3 m. 1 m. Yellow Tough, vigorous plant with fluffy seed heads.
Clematis 'Ville de Lyon' 10 ft. 3 ft. ™» 3 C Red Carmine red flowers in summer on current wood.
CLEMATIS - Ville de Lyon 3 m. 1 m.
Clematis viticella 10 ft. 3 ft. ™» 3 C Purple Deep purple flowers in summer on new wood.
CLEMATIS - Etoile Violette 3 m. 1 m.
Humulus lupulus 7 ft. 7 ft. ™» 2 n/a Green Fast growing, hardy vine grown for making beer.
HOPS 2 m. 2 m. Useful screening plant that requires support.
Lonicera x ‘Dropmore Scarlet’
10 ft. 3 ft. ™» 2 n/a Red Scarlet tubular flowers attract hummingbirds.
HONEYSUCKLE- 3 m. 1 m. Best summer flowering, woody vine for Alberta.
90 Dropmore Scarlet Rresistant to Honeysuckle aphid.
Lonicera x brownii 'Mandarin' 20 ft. 7 ft. ™» 2 n/a Orange Orange tubular flowers attract hummingbirds.
HONEYSUCKLE - Mandarin 6 m. 2 m. Resistant to honeysuckle aphids.
Parthenocissus ‘Englemanii’ 20 ft. 3 ft. ™» 3 n/a White Self-clinging variety that does not need support.
ENGLEMAN IVY 6 m. 1 m. Attractive green leaves turn to brilliant red in fall.
Parthenocissus quinquefolia 20 ft. 3 ft. ™» 2 n/a White Requires trellis, fence or other support structure.
VIRGINIA CREEPER 6 m. 1 m. Attractive green leaves turn to brilliant red in fall.
Vitis x ‘Canadice’ 7 ft. 3 ft. ™» 4 n/a White Early red, seedless berries for juice, jelly or wine.
GRAPE - Canadice 2 m. 1 m. Self pollinating but 2 varieties produce more fruit.
Vitis x ‘Concord’ 7 ft. 3 ft. ™» 4 n/a White Blue berries used primarily for fresh grape juice.
GRAPE - Concord 2 m. 1 m. Most popular widely grown grape in north america.
Vitis x ‘Interlaken’ 7 ft. 3 ft. ™» 4 n/a White Golden green, early ripening, seedless berries.
GRAPE - Interlaken 2 m. 1 m. Cross of Thompson Seedless for white wine.
Vitis x ‘Steuben’ 7 ft. 3 ft. ™» 4 n/a White Purplish-blue berries used for juice or jelly.
GRAPE - Steuben 2 m. 1 m. Good for table grape or making red wine.
Vitis x 'Valiant' 7 ft. 3 ft. ™» 3 n/a White Early blue berries on a vigorous annual producer.
GRAPE - Valiant 2 m. 1 m. Hardier grape for the Prairies; used for jelly.

Group A
Flowers in spring on woody stems produced the previous season. Prune out weak or dead stems just after blooming is
finished, usually in June. Choose hardy cultivars of Clematis alpina & Clematis macropetala.
Group B
Clematis in the B1 pruning group are generally not hardy in zone 3. For group B2, most blooming usually occurs on
new growth. Use pruning method for Group C.
Group C
Blooms on current season’s growth. Many hardy varieties are available. Prune back in spring to about 1 ft. (30cm).
Leave 2 strong sets of buds per stem. This produces more flowers along the full length of the plant. Prune out weak or
dead stems when you see them.
perennialsplanting a clematis

PERENNIALS
91
houseplantsyour questions
Q: Which houseplants should I choose for a hot, sunny
area in my house?
A: Direct sunlight can cause damage to many house
plants. Choose thick-leaved plants such as jade plants,
aloe vera, and a wide variety of cacti all of which tolerate
sun.
Q: Which houseplants should I choose for an area
with low light?
A: Low light is referred as an area that receives little or no
sunlight, such as north facing windows. Many plants such
as peace lily and chinese evergreen will do well.
Q: How do I get my hibiscus to re-flower?
A: From spring to fall provide direct sunlight and feed with
a fertilizer such as 15-30-15.
Q: When and how should I repot my houseplants?
A: Spring is the best time to repot as plants are starting
to grow. Choose a container up to 1 in. (5 cm) in diameter
larger (with drainage holes). Use a good all purpose
potting soil.
Q: Small black flies appear to be around my plants.
What are they? How should I treat them?
A: The fungus gnat larvae begins its life in the top layer of
soil, feeding on dead organic matter, and then develop into
a small black fly. Gnats prefer moist conditions, so keeping
soil on the dry side is a good preventive messure. If this
does not work apply predatory mites (Hypoapsis Mites
- more info in the Pests and Problems section) to your
plants. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label.
Q: What fertilizer should I use for my plants?
A: An all-purpose fertilizer such as 20-20-20 or 15-30-
15 is appropriate for all indoor plants. The best time to
fertilize is during the active growing season which is spring
HOUSEPLANTS
through fall.
Q: Which plants “clean the air”?
A: Not only do plants create atmosphere in our homes,
they also help purify the air. Some plants that are proven to
be effective are: spider plant, pot mum, peace lily, dragon
tree and gerbera daisy.
Q: Can I take cuttings from my plants?
A: There are several ways to start new plants from your 93
existing ones. Taking cuttings, root division and air layering
can all be tried depending on the type of plant.
Q: How often should I water my plants? What are the
best ways to water my plants?
A: Many factors influence the water needs of plants,
including light, temperature, size of pot and type of
plant. Make sure to know your plants’ needs and water
thoroughly then allow the soil to become as dry as that
type of plant can tolerate.
Q: What are the common pests I should watch for on
my plants?
A: Some common indoor pests include spider mite, aphids,
scale and whitefly which are generally located on leaves
and stems. A thorough inspection when watering your
plants will keep problems to a minimum.
Q: Which common tropicals are poisonous?
A: The main poisonous houseplants are anthurium,
cyclamen tubers, dieffenbachia, english ivy, hydrangea,
mistletoe, and oleander among others. For further
information check the Canadian poisonous plants
information system website at:
(http://sis.Agr.Gc.Ca/pls/pp/poison?P_x=px)
Or call the 24 hour Calgary emergency poison control
hotline at 670-1414.
 houseplants light
HOUSEPLANTS

Lighting is a crucial consideration in the choice of plant green light which is why most plants have a green leaf
material for either indoor or outdoor locations. Adequate color.
light is required for photosynthesis. Flowering plants
that need a high light level to flower such as outdoor Orientation Toward Sunlight:
roses or peonies; or indoor hibiscus or oleander, won't
Orientation toward south or west sunlight either inside
flower in low light conditions. Plants that prefer partial
or outdoors provides high light or full sunlight condi-
shade such as bleeding heart, cedar, and cranberry will
tions. Conversely, plants situated in east or north
not perform as well in full sunlight.
windows or on the east or north side of a house receive
lower levels of sunlight. The angle of sunlight during dif-
Aspects of Light: ferent seasons of the year is also a consideration for the
1. Intensity - brightness or level of light light requirement of plants.
2. Duration - day length or photoperiod
3. Quality - color of light High Light Houseplants:
These house plants require high light levels. They prefer
the bright direct sunlight of south or west windows.
Light Intensity:
Aloe, Agave, etc. - succulents
Light intensity, the brightness or light level, is accurately
Cereus, Euphorbia, etc. - cacti
measured with a light meter. The units of measurement
are either foot-candles (British system) or lux (metric Citrus - calamondin orange, etc.
system). Light intensity is the limiting factor in growing Codiaeum - croton
plants indoors. Plants with variegated or colored leaves Crassula - jade plant
generally need more light because photosynthesis does
not occur in these leaf surface areas. Artificial light may Hibiscus - rose of China
provide the necessary additional light for these plants. Hoya - wax plant
Kalanchoe - flaming Katy
94 Light Duration: Nerium - oleander
Light duration, the length of daylight or photoperiod, Yucca - spineless yucca
affects the flowering capability of certain plants. There
are three types of plants according to their flowering
Low Light Houseplants:
response to day length: Short Day, Long Day and Inde-
terminate. Certain house plants, usually ones with larger leaves to
trap more light, tolerate lower light levels than others.
They may be situated in a north or east window and
Short Day Plants:
include:
These indoor plants require less than twelve hours of
light per day in order to initiate flower buds. If inadver- Aglaonema - Chinese evergreen
tently given more light the flower buds will not develop. Aspidistra - cast iron plant
They all flower in the winter months around Christmas Homalomena - emerald gem
time. Monstera - split-leaf philodendron
Christmas Cactus Philodendron - heart- leaf, selloum or Xanadu
Chrysanthemum Sansevieria - snake plant
Kalanchoe Spathiphyllum - peace lily
Poinsettia
Houseplants for Children:
Light Quality: These indoor house plants offer unique or interesting
Light quality refers to the color of light. White light, features or characteristics to children:
which is actually a combination of all of the colors, is Chlorophytum - spider plant - has hanging plantlets
best for plants. Red light is important for photosynthesis
Kalanchoe tomentosa - panda plant - has fuzzy leaves
and photoperiodism. Plants absorb red light and reflect
houseplants standing

HOUSEPLANTS
all houseplants listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE

AIR PLANT Bright filtered sunlight Mist frequently to Colored, long lived Plant absorbs moisture from air!
Tillandsia species increase humidity. flowers. Rosette of Epiphytic bromeliad in wild grows on
narrow leaves. trees.
Aloe-medicine Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Narrow fleshy, Medicinally used to treat burns.
Aloe vera thoroughly before watering. succulent leaves. Useful plant to have in your home.
Aralia-Balfour Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Variegated round leaves. Foliage plant.
Polyscias balfouriana slightly before watering. Extra humidity is beneficial.
Aralia-False Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Compound leaves with Delicate elegant slender foliage.
Dizygotheca elegantissima slightly before watering. dark slender leaflets.
Unique leaf shape & color.
Aralia-Japanese Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil moist in summer. Compound glossy Prefers cool well ventilated area in
Fatsia japonica Reduce watering in winter. lobed leaflets. winter. Keep leaves free of dust.
Aralia-Ming Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Named after Ming dynasty in China.
Polyscias fruticosa elegans slightly before watering. Delicate elegant foliage Extra humidity is beneficial.
Aralia-PARSLEY Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Delicate, dark Shrub with aromatic, lacy leaves.
Polyscias fruticosa 'Parsley' slightly before watering. green leaves. Extra humidity is beneficial.
Begonia-Rex Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Decorative leaves. Colorful foliage plant.
Begonia rex before watering. Keep Many interesting varieties.
leaves dry.
Bird of Paradise Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Orange & blue bird-like Flowers after plants are 7 years old.
Strelitzia reginae before watering. flower occurs in spring! Prefers to be root-bound.
Reduce watering in winter. Lg. leaves on long stalk. Keep cooler in winter.
Bonsai According to species Frequent watering. Foliage pruned to form. Outdoor varieties require cold
Buxus, Ficus, etc. Stunted growth because treatment. Tropicals are easier to
of restricted rooting. care for. Examples are fig, boxwood
& natal plum.
Bougainvillea Direct sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Colored bracts on Excellent climber for direct sunlight 95
Bougainvillea buttiana before watering. Reduce in paperyflowers. locations. Woody, climbing shrub.
the winter. Climbing leaves.
Bromeliads Bright filtered sunlight Keep cup-like reservoir Colorful flowers and Prefer warm temperatures & high
Aechmea, Neoregalia filled with water. bracts.Various humidity. To propagate remove and
Stemless rosette of leaves. variegated leaves. plant offsets.

Aloe vera Japanese Aralia Bougainvillea Bird of Paradise

 houseplantsstanding
HOUSEPLANTS
all houseplants listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE

Bunya Bunya Bright indirect sunlight Moderately dry Sharp pointed needles. Unique, coniferous evergreen tree.
Araucaria bidwillii between waterings Shiny foliage.
Cacti Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Various colored flowers. Spines are actually modified leaves.
Cereus, Euphorbia, etc. thoroughly before watering. Peruvian tree cactus and milk tree.
Reduce watering in winter. Well-drained, sandy soil.
Caladium Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist Heart-shaped, paper-thin Grown from tubers.
Caladium x hortulanum in summer. leaves ornamented Foliage dies down in fall and goes
Stop watering in fall. with various colors. dormant. Commonly called elephant ears
CALATHEA Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Ornate leaves. Intricately patterned, colorful foliage.
Calathea makoyana Benefits from extra humidity. Similar looking & culture as Prayer Plant.
Cast Iron Plant Medium to low light Allow soil surface to dry out Tough-as-nails plant for low light and
Aspidistra elatior thoroughly before watering. Lance-shaped leaves. temp. Requires least care of house
Reduce watering in winter. plants. Keep leaves free of dust.
Avoid wet feet.
China Doll Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Compound leaves with This plant is as pretty as a China doll.
Radermachera sinica glossy leaflets. Delicate exquisite foliage.
Chinese Evergreen Medium to low light Allow soil surface to dry out Lance- shaped leaves Several varieties including Silver
Aglaonema commutatum before watering. with many variegations Queen. Easy to grow; for home or office.
Citrus Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Fragrant white flowers. No fertilizer in winter; allow to dry out
Citrus species before watering. Glossy green leaves. in winter. Prefers cooler night & winter
temperatures.
Croton Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Various leaf colors Variegated leaves provide indoor
Codiaeum variegatum Extra humidity is beneficial. and shapes contrast. Keep leaves clean of dust.
DUMB CANE Medium sunlight Allow soil to dry out Variegated oblong Decorative foliage plant.
Dieffenbachia species before watering. leaves. Low maintenance plant tolerates low light
Dracaena Medium sunlight Allow soil to dry out Green or striped, Janet Craig/warnecki/corn cane/
Dracaena species before watering. lance-shaped leaves. marginata. Accent plants used for
96 interior landscapes.
Ferns Filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Various shaped fronds! Shade tolerant, moisture loving plants.
Asplenium, Pellaea, etc.

Calathea Croton China Doll Chinese Evergreen

Fern Caladium
houseplantsstanding

HOUSEPLANTS
all houseplants listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE

Fig-Weeping Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Wavy oval leaves. Graceful weeping tree. Favorite
Ficus benjamina foliage plant for interior landscapers.
Flamingo flower Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Red or pink spathes. Long-lasting cut flower of Hawaii.
Anthurium species Extra humidity is beneficial. Ovate leathery leaves.
homalomena Low to med. sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Heart-shaped leaves. Similar to Philodendron.
Homalomena species thoroughly before watering. Em gem cultivar is available.
Jade Plant Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Delicate white flowers. Popular succulent with jade green
Crassula argentea thoroughly before watering. Succulent leaves. leaves. Jades like to be pot-bound.
Jasmine Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. White fragrant flowers. Several climbing varieties available.
Jasminum species Extra humidity is beneficial. Small leaflets. Use on trellis or as a hanging plant.
Kaffir Lily Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist Orange funnel-like Prefers to be root bound.
Clivia miniata during spring & summer. flowers. Long narrow, Needs 2 months cool dry, winter rest
glossy leaves. period.
MONEY TREE Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil to dry out Elongated leaves. 5 leaves symbolize 5 elements of Feng
Pachira moderatly before watering. 5 per stem. shui.
Palms Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Feathery fronds. Graceful exotic, tropical foliage plants.
Chamaedorea, Phoenix, Extra humidity is beneficial. areca, bamboo, date, fan, kentia, & lady.
Chamaerops, Rhapis, etc. Require good drainage. Many varieties with several leaf shapes.
Palm-PONYTAIL Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Arching narrow leaves. Swollen stem base stores water.
Beaucarnea recurvata thoroughly before watering. Not a true palm; actually a succulent.
Passion Flower Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Intricate flowers. Unusual flowers.
Passiflora species Extra humidity is beneficial. Lobed leaves. Beautiful exotic varieties.
Peace Lily Med to low sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. White spathe on long Easiest flowering plant for low light
Spathiphyllum 'Mauna Loa' stem. Lance-shaped area. Interior landscape plant. Called
leaves. white flag.
Peperomia Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Round fleshy leaves. Several species are semi-succulent such
Peperomia species out thoroughly before as watermelon, emerald ripple, pepper
watering. face. 97
Philodendron Low to med sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Heart-shaped, Many varieties including Selloum and
Philodendron species out before watering. large leaves. Xanadu. Easy to grow plants that
tolerate low light.
Philodendron-SPLIT Low to med sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Large perforated, Plant sends out aerial roots.
Monstera deliciosa LEAF out before watering. split leaves.

Weeping Fig Jade Plant Money Tree Peace Lily

Homalomena
HOUSEPLANTS
houseplantsstanding
all houseplants listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE

Pine-Buddhist Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Large linear leaves. Coniferous evergreen tree.
Podocarpus macrophyllus Requires staking and cool winter temp.
PINE-FERN Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Linear leaves. Graceful coniferous evergreen tree.
Podocarpus gracilior Drooping foliage.
Pine-Norfolk IslandBright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly Soft needles. Coniferous evergreen with tiered
Araucaria excelsa branches. Can be decorated as indoor
Christmas tree.
Polka Dot PLANT Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Lavender flowers. Adds a splash of color to the home or
Hypoestes phyllostachya Pink spots on leaves. office. Prune to retain bushiness.
Rubber Plant Medium sunlight Allow soil to dry out Thick oval leaves. Old-fashioned, sturdy house plant.
Ficus elastica before watering. Good drainage. Keep leaves clean.
Schefflera Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Compound leaves. Popular foliage plant for interior
Schefflera actinophylla out before watering. landscapes. Two species are umbrella
Schefflera arboricola tree and Hawaiian. Small tree or large
shrub for home or office.
Sensitive Plant Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Compound lacy leaflets. Unique feature of folding leaves if
Mimosa pudica touched. Popular plant with kids to show
plants move.
SNAKE PLANT Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Erect, lance-shaped, One of the hardiest of all indoor plants.
Sansevieria trifasciata Tolerates mid-low light. thoroughly before watering. variegated rosette Semi-succulent plants such as bird's
Sansevieria zeylanica Provide good drainage. of leaves. nest. Easy to care for, popular plants.
Succulents Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Various colored flowers. Various species of varying forms and
Agave, Aloe, thoroughly before watering. Fleshy succulent leaves. hangers. Needs cool dry, dormancy
Haworthia, etc. Provide good drainage. period in winter. Needs well-drained
sandy soil. Easy to grow.
TI PLANT Medium sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Variegated, Hawaiian or Polynesian plant.
Cordyline terminalis out before watering. lance-shaped leaves. Similar culture to Dracaena.
98 Venus Fly Trap Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Rosette of leaves. Novelty carnivorous plant feeds on
Dionaea muscipula Extra humidity is required. insects. 'Mouths' do not reopen once
closed.
Yucca Bright direct sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Lance-shaped leaves. Durable plant tolerates adverse
Yucca elephantipes out thoroughly before conditions. Evergreen accent or
watering. specimen shrub.

Snake Plant Rubber Plant Schefflera Norfolk Island Pine

Ti Plant Venus Fly Trap

houseplantsflowering

HOUSEPLANTS
all houseplants listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE

African Violet Bright filtered sunlight Allow to partially dry. Available in many colors, Fertilize with African Violet fertilizer
Saintpaulia ionantha Do not get leaves wet. continuous blooming. or one with a higher middle number.
Popular, reliable flowering houseplant.
Azalea Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Pink, red or white, Woody shrub with oval leaves.
Rhododendron species continual flowers. Prefers cool, humid area & acidic soil.
Begonia-Reiger Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to Yellow, pink, orange, Avoid getting water on leaves.
Begonia hiemalis dry before watering. salmon, white and red. Pinch to keep shape.
Chenille Plant Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Long red, fuzzy, Avoid draft or sudden temp. change.
Acalypha hispida fabric-like tassels. Unique colorful fuzzy blossoms.
CINERARIA Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Daisy-like flowers with Winter blooming, short day plant.
Senecio cruentes various colored petal tips. Triangular toothed leaves.
Cyclamen Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Purple, pink, red, or white Winter blooming and can be reforced.
Cyclamen persicum stunning flowers. Gorgeous plant for gift giving.
FLOWERING MAPLE Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Red, pink, yellow or white. Evergreen woody shrub.
Abutilon hybridum Maple-like leaves. Also called 'Chinese Lantern'.
Gardenia Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Fragrant white semi- Glossy ovate leaves.
Gardenia jasminoides Needs extra humidity. double or double flowers. Needs cool nights: 60-65 F (15-18 C)
Gerbera Daisy Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to White, red, yellow, Spectacular blooms in vivid colors.
Gerbera jamesonii dry before watering. orange, or hot pink Likes outdoor cool temp. in summer.
daisies on long stems. Also known as 'Transvaal Daisy'.
Gloxinia Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Velvety blooms in purple, Dry rest period for 3 mo., then repot.
Sinningia speciosa Do not get leaves wet. white, pink, or red. Old-fashioned favorite.
Hibiscus Bright direct sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Large red, pink, white, Woody shrub with toothed leaves.
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Likes extra humidity. yellow or orange Spectacular continuous blooms.
ephemeral flowers. Fertilizer with high last numbers.
HYDRANGEA Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Large pink or blue Flower color is determined by
Hydrangea macrophylla flower clusters. alkalinity or acidity of soil.
Kalanchoe Bright direct sunlight Allow soil surface to Clusters of long-lasting Succulent plant with fleshy leaves.
Kalanchoe blossfeldiana dry before watering. red or pink flowers. Xmas flower plant called 'Flaming 99
Katy'.
LILY, CALLA Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Pure white spathes. Attractive leaves.
Zantedeschia aethiopica Needs extra humidity. Requires dry rest period.
LILY, KAFFIR Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Orange, trumpet-shaped. Requires cool, dry, winter rest period.
Clivia miniata Reduce water in fall. Strap-shaped leaves. Fabulous flowering plant.

Hydrangea Kalanchoe Hibiscus African Violet

Gardenia Cyclamen
 houseplantsflowering
HOUSEPLANTS
all houseplants listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability
NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE

MUM, POT Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Various colored daisies in Florists' mums are long-lived blooms.
Chrysanthemum morifolium forms such as pompom. Popular gift plant for moms!
OrchidS: Bright filtered sunlight Allow potting media to Various colors of Keep away from heat registers.
Epiphytic & Terrestrial dry before watering. exquisite flowers. Care & culture depends on variety.
Phalaenopsis, etc. Needs extra humidity. Moth orchid is the easiest to bloom.
See our Orchid page for more info.
Persian Violet Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Purple or white Native to Persia. Avoid drafts.
Exacum affine fragrant flowers.
Poinsettia Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to Colorful bracts in Traditional Xmas plant.
Euphorbia pulcherrima dry before watering. red, pink, or white. Group together as a show piece.
Adds a festive touch to any decor.
See our Chrismas section of the
guide for information on reblooming.
PrimRoseS Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Clusters of bright, fragrant Primroses are a prelude to spring.
Primula species flowers in pink, purple, Available species are Fairy, German,
red, white & yellow. Chinese & polyanthus.
PrimRose-CAPE Bright filtered sunlight Allow soil surface to Purple, pink or white Same family as African Violet.
Streptocarpus species dry between waterings tubular flowers. Fertilize for long-lived blossoms.
Rose, Miniature Bright direct sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Mini fragrant flowers. Great gift for loved ones!
Rosa chinensis Likes extra humidity. Available in various colors. Remove spent flowers for reblooming.

100

house plant guarantee

We guarantee All indoor, standing and Seasonal flowering
to provide our hanging house plants house plants are not
customers are guaranteed for thirty guaranteed because of Store Phone Numbers:
(30) days. their perishable nature. Calgary: 274-4286
with plant You will receive a credit Bonsai plants and or- Medicine Hat: 526-2378
material of towards a replacement chids are also not guar-
plant. anteed.
excellent quality.
houseplantshanging

HOUSEPLANTS
all houseplants listed subject to
seasonal and supplier availability

NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE

Arrowhead VINE Bright filtered sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Arrow-shaped, Easy to grow hanging houseplant.
Syngonium podophyllum out before watering. variegated leaves. Suitable for lower light area.
Baby’s Tears Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Tear-sized, Creeping ground cover with trailing
Soleirolia soleirolii Extra humidity is required. tiny round leaves. stems. Great for gound cover in
terrarium or hanger.
Burro’s Tail Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Fleshy succulent Hanging leaves look like donkey tail.
Sedum morganianum before watering. leaves. Withstands low humidity of houses.
Bridal Veil Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Small white flowers. Trailing plant.
Gibasis geniculata Delicate foliage and flowers.
CREEPING CHARLIE Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Circular crinkled leaves. Creeping ground cover plant.
Pilea nummulariifolia Easily propagated by stem/leaf cuttings.
Ferns Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Distinctive, dissected, Suitable for hanging basket or plant
Nephrolepis, Adiantum Extra humidity is required. delicate, lacy fronds. stand. Includes traditional Boston and
unique staghorn.
FiG-Creeping Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Heart-shaped, Self-clinging, climbing or hanging plant.
Ficus pumila small leaves. Suitable for use as a ground cover or on
pole.
Glory Bower Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. White sepals and red Tall twining shrub with trailing stems.
Clerodendron thompsonae petals. Ovate leaves. Requires cool, dry, winter rest period.
Also called bleeding heart vine!
Goldfish Plant Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Orange pouch flowers. Blooms resemble goldfish!
Hypocyrta glabra Glossy green leaves. Trailing vine is outstanding flowering
hanger.
Ivy-ENGLISH Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Green or variegated Trailing, climbing vine with several
Hedera helix out before watering. lobed leaves. varieties. Good hanging plant for bright
location.
Ivy-Grape Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Compound leaves with Fast growing, climbing, trailing vine.
Cissus rhombifolia out before watering. 3 toothed leaflets. Member of the true grape vine family. 101
IVY-KANGAROO Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Toothed ovate, Member of the grape ivy family.
Cissus antarctica out before watering. glossy leaves.
Ivy-Swedish Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Aromatic, square stems. Trailing, fast growing, hanging
Plectrantus australis Small oval leaves. houseplant. Easy to prune & propagate.
Lipstick PLANT Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Red tube-like flowers. Trailing stems suitable in a hanging
Aeschynanthus species Elliptic leaves. basket. Blossoms resemble lipstick
tubes!
NERVE PLANT Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Small oval, Creeping ground cover plant.
Fittonia verschaffeltii Extra humidity is required. veined leaves. Variegated veins look like nerves.
Pothos-GOLDEN Medium sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Heart-shaped, Easy to grow climbing or hanging plant.
Scindapsus aureus out before watering. variegated leaves. Also called devil's ivy. Also marble
queen.
Prayer Plant Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Ornate oblong leaves. Suitable plant for trellis or hanger.
Maranta leuconeura Extra humidity is required. Leaves bend up at night to pray!
PURPLE PASSION VINE Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Velvety, purple Pinch off any flower buds as flowers
Gynura sarmentosa Avoid getting foliage wet. hairy leaves smell bad. Also called velvet plant.
Spider Plant Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Arching, variegated, Small spider-shaped, hanging plantlets.
Chlorophytum comosum linear leaves. Colorful foliage that also cleans the air.
String of Pearls Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Pea-shaped, Pearly unique, dangling leaves on a
Senecio rowleyanus before watering. succulent leaves. string. Withstands low humidity of
houses.
Wandering Jew Medium sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Purple and green, Colorful foliage.
Zebrina pendula out before watering. ovate leaves. Beautiful hanging houseplant.
wax plant Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Waxy scented flowers. Semi-succulent, climbing foliage.
Hoya carnosa before watering. Fleshy leaves. Prefers to be root bound.
 houseplantsbonsai
HOUSEPLANTS

Bonsai does not refer to a type of plant, but rather will tell you if the soil is damp, or dry enough to need
describes a method of pruning and shaping to create water. No bonsai soil surface should be covered with
an illusion of a very old, miniature tree. A dwarf plant is any material that prevents water from evaporating from
created by restricting the root zone in a shallow pot. A the surface, or does not allow you to feel the soil. In hot
bonsai can be created from any plant which develops weather, most bonsai will need checking for water daily,
a woody trunk and tolerates pruning well. Bonsai are as once a plant dries out, the roots may not be able to
classified into tropical plants, deciduous shrubs or absorb water and it could die. After many years of care,
evergreens. There are several forms, such as formal that may be devastating! Bonsai do not need a great
upright, informal upright, cascade and windswept. deal of fertilizer, as you not want to encourage rapid
growth. The type of fertilizer used depends on the type
The easiest bonsai to care for, if you are a of plant, but is generally a balanced one, such as 20-
beginning novice, is a tropical plant. A fig, for example, 20-20, for deciduous trees or tropicals, and 30-10-10 for
grows well in our indoor living conditions, so continues evergreens. Use half the recommended strength only,
to do so after it is pruned and repotted. Also suitable and do not fertilize in the winter unless it is a tropical that
are boxwood (Buxus), Fukien Tea (Carmona), Myrtle is activley growing under fluorescent lights.
(Myrtus), Natal Plum (Carissa), and Tree of a Thousand
Stars (Serissa). There are specific rules for pruning, wiring, etc.,
and many good books are available in our book stores to
Deciduous shrubs and trees need a cold, help you. Remember that if the book suggests growing
dormant period in the winter, just as if they were outside, it may be referring to Japan! We encourage you
growing outdoors. Plants such as Young's Weeping to ask for our assistance to help you enjoy your Bonsai!
Birch, Siberian Elm, Cotoneaster damneri, and Pygmy
Caragana form attractive bonsai. During the winter
they need to be kept in a cool but frost-free area and
need little light once they have lost their leaves. Close
to but not touching a window in a cool room is suitable.
They can't be kept outside in their pots above ground
during the winter, as the soil temperature fluctuates
dramatically during our weather changes. A garage
heated to just above freezing is suitable, or the plant
may be buried in the ground to just above the pot rim,
then mulched well over the winter.
102
Evergreens are the most challenging. Because
they need high humidity in the winter, and a temperature
just above freezing, they cannot be grown successfully
in your living room. They will tolerate a windowsill if
kept close enough to the glass to be quite cool, as long
as the needles don't touch the glass if it is very cold
outside. Keep warm air away from the pot and ensure
there is no hot air register under them. To increase
humidity, set the pot on pebbles in a large tray with the
water level just below the top of the pebbles. Water
evaporates from the tray and creates higher humidity
around the plant.
The amount of light a bonsai needs depends
on the type of plant. Figs, for example, need medium
sunlight while azaleas require bright filtered light and
citrus needs bright direct sunlight. Deciduous trees need
no light when they have lost their leaves in the winter,
and a bright, sunny spot when in leaf. When evergreens
are cold in the winter, they go semi-dormant so need
little light, but need a bright light when warm enough to
grow. Many bonsai are grown under fluorescent lights,
usually using one cool white and one warm white bulb.
The lights must be quite close to the plants, and the
length of the day depends on the type.
Because bonsai are in small pots, with their
roots confined, watering is critical. Soil mixtures should
encourage good drainage, and will vary depending
on the type of plant. Inserting a finger into the soil
houseplantsorchids
The orchid family includes 25,000
species, with a large variety in
size, shape and color. Most of
these, the house plant grower
never sees. Many of these are
very difficult to grow but there
are also orchids which can be
grown very successfully indoors
by anyone who can grow
houseplants. Orchids have
the longest lasting flowers
of all houseplants, up to 4
months. For convenience,
orchids are classified into
two basic types by growth
habit. Epiphytic orchids grow
on trees for support, such as
Oncidium or Phalaenopsis.
Terrestrial orchids grow with
their roots in soil. Care is slightly
different for each type. There is also
two types of growth. Those with
a monopodial type become taller
each year, growing only at the
tip of the stem. Leaves are in
two rows on opposite sides
of the stem, alternating from
side to side. An example is
Dendrobium. The second,
and more common type is
sympodial. In this case, the
upward growth of the plant stops
after one growing season, and the
next year’s growth comes from the
base. Blooms come from the tips
of recent growth or from the sides
or bases of it. Cymbidiums are
sympodial orchids. Sympodial
orchids have pseudobulbs,
thickened stems that store food
and water and enable the plant to
survive periods of drought.
Orchid leaves are usually thick and
leathery and the vast majority are
evergreen. The flowers always
contain three sepals and three
petals, but the variety is
remarkable.
Orchids may be grouped
into three general categories,
according to the temperature
they prefer for their best growth.
Cool-growing orchids prefer
daytime temperatures of 60-70
Cymbidium - Kit Ho F(15-21 C) during the day, dropping
HOUSEPLANTS
to 50-55 F (10-13C) at night. This group
includes Cymbidium. Intermediate
temperatures of 65-75 F (18-24 C)
during the day and 55-60 F (13-16 C)
at night are suitable for Cattlyea and
Dendrobium. Daytime temperatures of
75-85 F (24-29 C) dropping to 65-75 F
(18-24 C) at night, are best for warm-
growing orchids such as Phalaenopsis.
This does not mean that you need
separate rooms for each type of orchid;
the cool growing one will be okay closest
to a window and the warm growing one
in a warmer area of your room.
Orchids do need higher humidity than
is usual in our homes, particularly in
the winter. Pebble trays (large saucers
or pans filled with pebbles or marbles),
with the level of water just below the top
of the pebbles and the plant sitting on
the pebbles, so that water can’t get into
the pot from the bottom but evaporates
around it; or saucers of water with plastic
egg crating, wire mesh or cake racks on
top help to increase the humidity in the
immediate vicinity of the plants.
The amount of light orchids need varies
considerably, depending on the type of
orchid. It is important to identify your
103
orchid and choose plants best suited for
your growing area. Many may be grown
on window sills and others thrive under
florescent or high-intensity lights.
Most orchids are potted into fir bark
although there are other suitable
potting media. Choose appropriate size
pieces for the pot size, ensuring so by
buying only that packaged specifically
for orchids. Any container with a
drainage hole can be used. Typically,
clay pots are used, but ceramic pots
may be successful. Because they are
not porous, care must be taken not to
over water. Some orchids are fastened
to slabs of bark or logs, and hung from
the ceiling or on walls, duplicating their
natural environment.
Watering frequency depends on the
size and type of container. Orchids in
small pots need watering more often
than ones in a larger pots; plants
growing in clay pots or on bark dry out
more quickly than those in plastic pots.
Orchids won't tolerate stagnant water
HOUSEPLANTS
houseplantsorchids
around their roots or bark that is constantly wet. Allow the in a variety of vivid colors and sizes. They have several stalks
bark to become dry before watering again. with flower clusters in rows along them. Dendrobiums flower
Orchid fertilizer or 20-20-20 fertilizer is suitable. Use more in spring or summer and each bloom lasts approximately 2
frequently when plants are actively growing and less in winter months, ensuring continuous enjoyment. These orchids have
when light levels are lower and plants are in a semi-dormant similar cultural requirements as Phalaenopsis. Dendrobiums
stage. Orchids need a cycle of growth and dormancy, so if need bright filtered sunlight, high phosphorus fertilizer and
they are being grown under artificial lights, the length high humidity.
of day will indicate how long lights Phalaenopsis(Moth orchid): These plants are native
should be on. primarily to Southeast Asia where the climate is warm and
Orchids are prone to fungal moist. They are well suited to home culture. The Moth Orchid
disease and root rot, caused (the common name for Phalaenopsis), needs bright light,
usually good air circulation, regular watering as necessary
by poor drainage or too and average to slightly cool temperature. Bloom
f r e q u e n t w a t e ring. spikes are produced sporadically throughout the
Insect problems are year. After blooms fade do not cut off the spike.
rare but sometimes The spike tip may continue to produce buds or
mealybugs branches may form from nodes lower down the
appear. If this spike. Flowering lasts 3-4 months on the spike
happens, in the pot, or 1 - 2 weeks if cut and floating in
check with our a bowl.
staff for help
with a suitable
control. Orchids such as the above mentioned are relatively easy
Of the many types to grow. They will reward attentive growers with exotic
of orchids available, and beautiful color and variety. In a well-planned collection
Phalaenopsis, dwarf blooming is possible every season of the year.
Cattleya and Dendrobium are the
easiest to grow and bloom successfully. For the
beginner, these are definitely worth a try and require no unusual
growing conditions. For more detailed information on growing
104 orchids see our bookstore.

Cattleya: Cattleyas become large plants, but there are also

dwarf varieties which are more suitable for our homes. They
need a warm, sunny spot; and should become dry before
watering. They will produce one or two flower spikes
each year.

Cymbidium: Keep these orchids in bright light.

They need cool evening temperatures to ensure
blooming. Place plants outside in late May and leave
them out until early September or until threat of frost.
During the summer water freely and fertilize with a
well-balanced plant food. This will ensure healthy,
strong new growth. In August stop feeding and decrease
water. This will put the plant into a stress situation which
is essential to force it to initiate flower spike production. At
this time, night temperatures must be considerably colder
than daytime temperatures.The starting spike will appear at
the base of mature new growth. At this time start fertilizing
with a high potassium plant food. Watering should be resumed
to a normal amount. Cool evening temperatures must be
maintained if possible or the spike will wither or buds may
drop. If all goes well your plant will reward you with as many
as thirty blooms on a single spike that lasts up to 3 months
on the plant or several weeks if cut.
Dendrobium: Dendrobiums are epiphytic orchids that come
houseplants transplanting
House plants may be repotted for two reasons; either
the plant has outgrown its pot and needs a larger one,
or the potting mix needs replacing but the plant can be
returned into the same pot. Young plants in small pots
need repotting more often than older, larger ones. If
water runs quickly through the soil into the saucer and
the plant needs watering more often because the soil
isn't retaining moisture, it could need a larger pot.
Early spring, just as new growth begins, is an ideal time
to repot, but a plant that needs repotting should be done
anytime of the year, except when actively flowering.
Choose a pot one size larger than before (e.g. an eight-
inch pot if the plant has outgrown a six-inch one). A plant
in a pot too large cannot absorb moisture from the soil
quickly enough to allow air into the soil and root damage
may result.
Most plants do well in ceramic, clay or plastic pots.
Unglazed clay pots allow the soil to dry out more quickly,
which is preferable for cacti and succulents, and allow
gaseous exchange. Soil in plastic or glazed ceramic pots
stays moist longer, which is appropriate for ferns and
ivies. With careful watering, a plant will do well in any
type of pot. Choose a pot with drainage holes to allow
excess water to drain from the soil. If you use rocks in
the bottom of the pot, be sure a rock isn't plugging the
drainage hole, and cover the rock layer with a piece of
landscape fabric or fiberglass screening to prevent soil
and roots from entering the space between the rocks. Be
sure water doesn't remain standing in drainage saucers.
houseplantspropagation
You may want to propagate a plant because you want more
plants, such as an African violet you wish to share with a
friend. You may be concerned if the plant has a long stem
and want to reroot it at a more suitable place (such as a
dieffenbachia), or you may want to grow a plant from seed
you saved or found or take cuttings from a plant.
Leaf Cuttings: This method is used most often with
African violets. Choose a leaf that is not the newest or the
oldest, cutting it cleanly with 1 inch of stem. It can be rooted
in water, but the roots are very fragile and more difficult
to plant. A better choice is vermiculite, in a small pot (or
styrofoam drinking cup), kept slightly moist. If you put clear
plastic wrap over the cup of vermiculite and poke a hole in
it with a pencil, you can insert the stem through the hole
and it will support the leaf and also keep the vermiculite
from drying out. A rooting hormone such as Stimroot will
encourage root development. Simply dip the cut stem in the
powder before it is inserted in the rooting material. When
bushy little roots have developed, the plant is potted into a
small pot in potting soil. Several little plants will be clumped
together. They can be pulled apart and planted separately
when still small.
Stem Cuttings: Tropical plants such as ivy, creeping
charley, wandering Jew, and geranium are easily
propagated by cutting a piece off the end of a stem, with
about five leaves on it. Cut just below a leaf, and cut that
leaf off. It is rooted the same way as an African violet leaf.
If the plant is one that needs high humidity, enclosing the
cutting & pot in a plastic bag with an air hole punched in it
will keep the humidity higher around the leaves until they
root. Geranium cuttings should be left for the cut surface
HOUSEPLANTS
Most potting mixes are combinations of peat moss,
vermiculite, perlite and/or sand. Cacti and succulents
need extra sand added to improve drainage (one part
sand to one part potting mix is suitable). Other house
plants such as dracaenas, palms, or citrus that need
well drained soil should have about one part sand added
to three parts potting mix. When repotting remove what
soil comes off easily, without damaging the roots; and
add new soil in the bottom and the sides, placing the
plant at the same depth it was previously. Leave 1/2
inch between soil level and the rim of the pot to make
watering easier.
Water house plants when the soil in the pot is as dry
as it should be for that plant. Some need to become
completely dry (e.g. cactus), some must always be moist
(e.g. azalea), and most should allow the soil surface
to partially dry before watering. Water thoroughly, so
that a small amount trickles through the drainage hole,
indicating that the whole root ball has been moistened,
and remove any water remaining in the saucer. Water
again when the soil has become as dry as it should be
for that plant. Inserting a finger into the soil will indicate
if the plant requires watering. Soil pulling away from the
side of the pot also indicates a need for water. Watering
too often is a very common problem, and can cause root
rot, so it is important to check each plant, and not water
them all because one plant needs a drink! Do not fertilize
until the plant has shown some sign of new growth. At
that point, your plant has settled nicely into its new pot
and should continue to thrive.
to dry before being inserted into the rooting material. Cacti 105
and succulents should also be left to dry, and are best
rooted in moist sand.
Air Layering: Plants such as a dieffenbachia or rubber
plant often lose lower leaves so that a tuft of leaves is at
the top of a long stalk. By air layering you can form a root
system just below the leaves to create a shorter, bushy
plant. First, stake the plant, tying above and below where
you want the roots to be. Choose a spot where you want
the roots to be, just below where a leaf was. Cut a narrow
wedge half way into the stalk, taking care not to cut all the
way through! Rooting hormone inserted into the cut area
with the knife blade will encourage rooting. Wrap moist
sphagnum moss around the cut area, then cover with clear
plastic, tying above and below the moss.
Roots will take about 4 - 6 weeks — check periodically
to be sure moss is damp. When a good root system has
developed, cut stalk below roots and plant in a small pot.
The stalk can be cut off a few inches above the soil and
new leaves will form at that point. Pieces of stalk can also
be rooted, by placing them horizontally in damp soil.
Starting Plants from Seed: Many tropical plants will
develop seeds if dead flowers are allowed to remain on the
plant. African violets, weeping fig, palms and cactus are
some examples. Leave the seed pod on the plant until it
is starting to dry, then remove it and place in a warm, dry
place until dry. Scatter seeds on moist soil in a shallow
container and cover with clear plastic. Once seedlings
emerge, keep in bright sun or under florescent lights,
checking frequently to be sure soil doesn't dry. Repot when
several leaves have grown, into separate small pots.
TREES and SHrUBS
deciduous
favorites
Ash (Fraxinus spp.)
These fast-growing, large trees have long, compound
leaves. They leaf out late in the spring and lose their
leaves early in the fall after a short period of a brilliant
yellow show. All ash varieties make excellent shade
or street trees. Common types are Fallgold Black Ash
which have a pyramidal form, Green Ash which have a
dense, oval canopy, and Patmore Ash which is a male
106 non-seeding clone of Green Ash.
Birch (Betula spp.)
The white bark of these trees peels off making them es-
pecially attractive in the winter months. White birch are
often sold in an attractive multi-stemmed format. These
stately trees make an excellent shade tree. Birches
require a good supply of water in our dry summers to
keep up their strength in order to fight off leaf miner
and to prevent winter dieback, two major problems of
birch. Good varieties are White Birch, Cut-leaf Weeping
Birch, and Paper Birch.
Hawthorn (Crataegus spp.)
These medium textured small trees grow in an upright
oval fashion. The glossy, dark green, coarsely toothed
leaves form a dense, low-headed canopy. Branches of
Hawthorn are covered with long, sharp thorns. These
trees make excellent small shade trees and can easily
be combined with shrubs and perennials. Snowbird
Hawthorns feature bright white, long lasting double
flowers in late spring. Toba Hawthorn has bright pink
flowers in spring followed by clusters of dark red ber-
ries.
Mountain Ash (Sorbus spp.)
The compound fern-like dark green leaves of this
tree turn orange and red in the fall and form a dense,
low-headed canopy. Large clusters of scarlet colored
berries follow the large clusters of white flowers. These
berries are retained all winter long and attract birds.
The dark reddish-brown bark is especially attractive in
the winter months. All Mountain Ash trees make excel-
lent, medium-sized shade trees and can be combined
with shrubs and perennials. Good drainage for roots
is necessary.
Mayday (Prunus padus commutata)
These coarse textured trees grow in an upright, spread-
ing fashion. The oval-shaped green leaves, turning
yellow in the fall, form an open, high-headed canopy.
The large, fragrant clusters of white flowers, produced
in May, are followed by small, black chokecherries.
Maydays make excellent shade trees.
Poplar (Populus spp.)
Poplars are coarse-textured trees that rapidly grow
into a large, broad specimen. The glossy green leaves,
turning yellow in the fall, form a dense canopy. Two
new and highly popular forms of Populus species are
Swedish Columnar Aspen which has a very compact
habit with small leaves similar to Trembling Aspen and
Tower Poplar (pictured above) which bears larger, more
triangular leaves and has a slightly more pyramidal
form.
Russian Olive (Eleagnus angustifolia)
These fine textured trees grow in an upright oval
fashion. The silvery, linear leaves form an open, low-
headed canopy. Dry, silvery seed follows the yellow,
very fragrant flowers. The silvery color of this species
contrasts well with evergreens. These trees perform
best in sheltered locations.
deciduous trees
your questions

TREES and SHRUBS

Q: What can I do to give us some privacy on our
back deck? There is about 8 feet from my back deck
to my fence, and the neighbour’s deck is right on
the other side of the fence.
A. You have two options you could go with:
1. You could add a lattice screen onto your deck. may contribute to polluting lakes and rivers. Over-
2. Plant narrow growing trees such as Swedish
Columnar Aspens, or Tower Poplars. This would still
allow a small walkway between your trees and your
deck. They look best when planted in odd numbers
such as three or five depending on the distance you
need to cover.
Q: My front yard is very small because I have a pie
shaped lot. I was wondering if a spruce tree might
be too overwhelming?
A. Because the winter months outnumber the summer
months it is recommended that you should plant 50%
of your front yard with evergreens. Spruce are larger
at the bottom which takes up a lot of space in your
yard. You can substitute for an ornamental deciduous
tree to minimize the ground area used. You can also
complement the tree and the foundation of your house
by planting junipers, dwarf pines, or cedars, to give you
year round greenery.
Q: I am looking for a fruit tree and I am wondering
what will give me the best production and quality
of fruit?
A: There are many fruit trees available and they are
very popular as new yards are smaller. Apples and
crabapples give you the best quality and the highest
consistent yields of fruit. Apricots, pears, and plums are
also very hardy in Calgary, but fruit can be inconsistent
due to late spring frosts which damage flower buds.
Because of our short season early fall frosts can
hamper fruit formation. More information in the fruit
tree section.
or slow-release tree stakes for established trees. You
should stop in August as you want the trees to start
the hardening off process in the fall. Different trees
have different needs so please feel free to ask a staff
member. Take care not to over-fertilize because it
fertilization can also increase the likelihood of some
plant diseases.
Q. I have just cut down my poplar. How can I
prevent it from suckering?
A. Suckers, shoots of the tree that come up from the
roots, are essentially the tree’s way of replacing the
upper growth that has been removed. Nearly half
of the tree exists underground in the form of roots.
These roots need to survive so they send up suckers
to allow the tree to photosynthesize and thus continue
to survive. In this situation the worst thing you can do is
grind the stump; you will be left with many independent
roots. Leave the stump and drill holes at 45 degree
angles near the top edge. Pour in a mixture of one part
concentrate Killex to four parts water - any stronger
will burn the plant tissue and the solution will not
travel through the whole system. This will indtroduce
a herbicide into the tree and should spread throughout
the root system. You can help this process by applying
regular strength Killex to any suckers that may come
up.
107

Q: When should I prune my tree?

A: The rule of thumb for most trees is they should be
pruned before leaves start to emerge in the spring.
There are however some exceptions. Birch and
maples should be pruned in late summer to prevent
heavy bleeding (loss of sap). This is when the plant is
starting to slow down its growth and the cut has the
best chance of healing over. Diseased, damaged, or
dead wood should be removed on sight regardless of
season. Good books on pruning are available for the
do it yourselfer.

Q: My trees seem to be doing fine, but aren’t

growing as fast as some of my neighbours’ trees.
Is it necessary to fertilize my trees?
A: Our body needs a whole spectrum of nutrients
and micronutrients, and trees are no different. Your
trees may be doing fine, but could be doing better.
Fertilize in early spring with granular, water soluble,
TREES and SHrUBS

Brandon Elm Plum Columnar Aspen

108

Snowbird Hawthorn Mayday

Dolgo Crabapple Cutleaf Weeping Birch

deciduous trees
fruit trees
Apples (Malus spp.)
There are a number of quite hardy apples that can be
grown on the prairies. Apple trees are very decorative,
provide the benefit of edible fruit, and are an appropriate
size for small yard landscaping. All edible-fruited apple
trees have white blossoms and require cross-pollination
from other local apples or crabapple trees to produce
fruit. Some varieties are Fall Red, Goodland, Harcourt,
Norland, North Battleford, and September Ruby.
Apple-crabs are fruit trees developed by crossing
standard apples with crabapples. The fruit is generally
smaller (less than 5 cm or 2” in diameter) but the trees
are hardier than standard apples. Two varieties are
Kerr and Rescue.
Crabapples are very hardy and wide-spreading produc-
ing small, tart crabapples with a high pectin content
making them exceptionally good for jelly making. A
good variety is Dolgo with tart, juicy, and crisp fruit that
ripens in late August.
Apricots (Prunus armeniaca)
Because apricot trees bloom so early in the spring late
frosts often damage the flowers and prevent fruit from
forming. Stop apricots from flowering early by heavily
TREES and SHRUBS
mulching the soil around the base of the trees. This will
keep the soil temperature low. Remove the mulch in
mid-May, allow the soil to warm and the blossoms to
form after the danger of frost has passed. Since apricots
are cross-pollinators two trees of different varieties are
required to set fruit. All apricot varieties hardy enough
for the prairies like Brookcot were developed from the
Manchurian Apricot.
Pears (Pyrus x spp.)
As ornamental trees, the hardy pears are worth growing
for their abundant, white flower clusters produced early
in the spring and for their bright yellow to red autumn
colors. The dense foliage is also an attractive glossy
green color. The fruit, good for making jams or cooked
desserts in most cases, is small and hard with gritty
flesh. Since pears are cross-pollinators two varieties
of trees are required to set fruit.
Plums (Prunus spp.)
Like apricots, plum trees bloom early in the spring.
Follow the directions for apricots regarding the slow-
ing of blossoming. Plums also require another variety
for pollination. Good varieties are Brookgold, a yellow,
sweet variety good for eating fresh, and Brookred, a
red, sweet plum good for canning.
109
 deciduous trees all trees listed subject to seasonal
TREES and SHrUBS
and supplier availability
Summer Fall
Names Height Spread Zone Foliage Foliage Flower Features
Color Color Color

AMUR CHERRY 30 ft. 15 ft. 3 Green Yellow White Black fruit follow flowers.
Prunus maacki 9 m. 5 m. Colorful flaking bronze bark for winter color.
AMUR MAPLE 16 ft. 10 ft. 3 Green Scarlet Samara Small graceful tree or large shrub.
Acer ginnala 5 m. 3 m. Red Excellent fall color leaves and 2-winged seeds.
APPLE - Malus
BATTLEFORD 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Lg green/red striped fruit. Ripens Sept; fresh/cook
COMBINATION 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow Lt Pink Minimum of 3 cultivars grafted onto 1 tree; unique
FALL RED 15'/5m 12'/4m. 3 Green Yellow White Lg red fruit; Ripens in Sept; eat fresh; stores well
GOODLAND 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Lg red/green fruit. Ripens mid Sept; fresh/cook/store
HARALSON 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Lg green/red striped fruit. Ripe late Sept; fresh/store
HARCOURT 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Fruit is red. Ripens late Sept; Good for eating fresh.
HARDI-MAC 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow Lt Pink Bright red crisp fruit. Ripe late Sept. MacIntosh var.
HEYER#12 16'/5.3m 13'/4.3m 3 Green Yellow Lt. Pink Early Ripening; good for eating fresh and cooking
NORLAND 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Medium green fruit w/ red stripes; Ripe August; fresh
NORKENT 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Lg green fruit w/ red stripes; like Golden Delicious
PARKLAND 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Med. red fruit. Ripe August; fresh/cook/store
PATTERSON 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Med. yellow fruit. Ripe mid Sept; fresh/cooking
RED SPARKLE 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Med red/green fruit with nutty/fruity taste
SEPTEMBER RUBY 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Med. red fruit. Ripe mid Sept; fresh/juice/store
APPLECRAB - Malus - Cross of apple and crabapple
KERR 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow White Med. dark red fruit; ripe Sept; eat fresh
RESCUE 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow White Med. green/red striped fruit; Ripe Sept.
APRICOT - Prunus
BROOKCOT 16'/5m 13'/4m 4 Green Amber White 2 var. needed for pollination; better for flowers only
MANCHURIAN 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Amber White Sm. fast-growing ; Rounded; winter hardy; xeriscape
SCOUT 16'/5m 13'/4m 4 Green Amber White Similar to Brookcot; freestone fruit; canning & jams
WESTCOT 16'/5m 13'/4m 4 Green Amber White As above; Freestone good for canning, jam making.
ASH - Fraxinus
FALLGOLD BLACK 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow n/a More uniform shape than green ash; seedless
FOOTHILLS 12'/4m 7'/2.5m 3 Green Yellow n/a Uniform shape; seedless; good fall color
110 MANCHURIAN 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow n/a Compact uniform street/ shade tree; exotic look
NORTHERN GEM 40'/13m 40'/13m 3 Green Yellow n/a Glossy green leaves; orange-yellow fall color
NORTHERN TREASURE 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow n/a Hybrid with upright growth; Excellent cold tolerance.
PATMORE GREEN 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow n/a Seedless;leafs out earlier & holds leaves longer
PRAIRIE SPIRE 12'/4m 6'/2m 3 Green Yello n/a Seedless; narrow pyramidal form
ASPEN - Populus
QUAKING/TREMBLING 30'/9m 15'/5m 2 Green Yellow Catkins Native tree; leaves tremble in wind; DOES have fluff
SWEDISH COLUMNAR 30'/9m 5'/2m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Narrow columnar tree; vertical accent for small area.
BIRCH - Betula
CUTLEAF WEEPING 30'/10m 20'/6m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Likes lots of water. Bark whitens with age; graceful
EUROPEAN WHITE 30'/10m 20'/6m 3 Green Yellow Catkins As above with round leaves; clump avail; likes water
PAPER 30'/10m 20'/6m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Whitest papery bark of all; clump avail; likes water
RIVER 30'/10m 20'/6m 4 Green Yellow Cones One of the best and fastest-growing birches for shade
TROST'S DWARF 3'/1m 3'/1m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Mounding lace-leaf form; likes full sun
BIRCH-YOUNG’S WEEPING 10'/3m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Small weeping tree; White bark; Likes lots of water.
CARAGANA - SUTHERLAND 13 ft 5 ft 2 Green Yellow Yellow Tall, columnar accent plant
Caragana arborescens 'Sutherland' 4m 1.5 m Attractive in row plantings as a tall hedge
CHERRY - Prunus
EVANS SOUR 12'/4m 10'/3m 3 Green Yellow White Self-pollinating; excellent for eating, jams ,etc
NANKING (tree) 9'/3m 9'/3m 3 Green Yellow Pink Red fruit mid-July; eating; jellies, etc; loved by birds
NORTH STAR 16'/5m 13'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Self pollinating tree with red sour cherries.
CHERRY-PLUM - Prunus - cross between cherry and a plum
COMPASS 12'/4m 10'/3m 2 Green Yellow White Self pollinating; good to pollinate other prunus spp.
SAPALTA 12'/4m 10'/3m 3 Green Yellow White Small purple fruit (1") ripe mid-August
CRABAPPLE - Malus
ALMEY 25'/8m 15'/5m 3 Purple Bronze Rose Pink Red Fruit; upright growth habit
COLUMNAR DOLGO 20'/6m 4'/1m 3 Green Yellow White Columnar form of popular Dolgo variety
COLUMNAR ROSTHERN 20'/6m 4'/1m 3 Green Yellow White Suitable for small yard; Fragrant flowers; small fruit.
DREAMWEAVER 10’/3m 3’/1m 3 Purple Purple Bright Pink Columnar crabapple perfect for today’s smaller yards
DOLGO 25'/8m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow White Wide branching; makes delicious jelly.
ECHTERMEYER WEEPING 15'/5m 6'/3m 3 Reddish Red Purple Requires staking 1st few years; large fruit & blooms
deciduous trees all trees listed subject to seasonal

TREES and SHRUBS

and supplier availability
Summer Fall
Names Height Spread Zone Foliage Foliage Flower Features
Color Color Color
FUCHSIA GIRL 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Purple Purple Red/Pink Fireblight resistant; Good alternative to 'Royalty'
HOPA 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow Rose Prolific bloomer; Upright growth widens with age.
KELSEY 15'/5m 15'/5m 4 Bronze Orange Red/Purple Bronze foliage. Only double flowering crab.
MAKAMIK 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Bronze Orange Rose Vigorous growing crab with profuse flowers.
MORNING PRINCESS 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Purple Bronze Pink Beautiful deep purple leaves with pink blooms
PINK SPIRE 15'/5m 6'/1.5m 3 Red-purple Bronze Rose-pink Small reddish-purple fruit; narrow habit
PRAIRIE FIRE 15'/5m 15'/5m 4 Green Yellow Red/Purple Very resistant to disease; prolific flowering
RADIANT 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Red-Green Orange Rose New leaves emerge red then turn to green.
ROSY GLO 6'/2m 6'/2m 3 Purple Bronze purple-pink Weeping growth habit; purple-black fruit
ROYAL BEAUTY 12'/4m 8'/2.5m 3 Red-Bronze Purple Red-Pink Dark red fruit does not fall; birds love fruit
ROYALTY 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Purple Orange Red Spectacular purple leaves; dark red flowers in spring
RUDOLPH 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Bronze Orange Red Small tree with very attractive spring growth.
SELKIRK 20'/6m 20'/6m 3 Bronze Orange Pink Red leaves turns bronze-green over summer; hardy
SNOWCAP 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Orange White No fruit; very fragrant spring flowers
SPRING SNOW 20'/6m 20'/6m 3 Green Orange White Does not bear fruit; Tolerates heat well
STRATHMORE 20'/6m 13'/4m 3 Bronze Orange Pink Uniform upright pyramidal grower; Profuse blooms.
THUNDERCHILD 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Purple Orange Pink More uniform than Royalty; fire blight resistant
TINA - TOPGRAFT 5'/1.5m 5'/1.5m 4 Green Yellow White Dwarf shrub grafted on standard; slow-growing
ELM - Ulmus
AMERICAN 50'/15m 30'/9m 3 Green Yellow Samara Umbrella or vase-shaped street or shade tree.
BRANDON 40'/12m 25'/8m 3 Green Yellow Samara Same as American elm but small and compact.
SIBERIAN 25'/8m 20'/6m 2 Green Yellow Samara Quick growing; resistant to Dutch elm disease.
HAWTHORN - Crataegus
SNOWBIRD 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Green White Glossy serrated leaves. Clusters of red fruit.
TOBA 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Green Pink Upright tree with double pink flowers in spring.
LILAC - Syringa
JAPANESE TREE 20'/6m 12'/4m 3 Green Orange Cream-wht Flowers in summer; Deep brown bark color.
IVORY SILK 20'/6m 12'/4m 3 Green Orange Cream-wht Compact selection of Japanese Tree Lilac.
GOLDEN ECLIPSE 15'/5m 10'/3m 2 Green-gold Yellow Cream-wht Leaves edged with gold; resists sunburn
LINDEN- DROPMORE 20'/6m 12'/4m 4 Green Yellow Cream Very fragrant flowers in June; pyramidal form
Tilia flavescens 'Dropmore' borderline species in Calgary
111
MAPLE
MANITOBA 30'/9m 20'/6m 2 Green Yellow Samara Has furrowed bark and is also called box elder.
KOREAN 15'/5m 10'/3m 4 Green Orange Purple Good replacement for Japanese Maple; beautiful
SENSATION 30'/9m 20'/6m 3 Green Red Male clone so no seeds; slow-growing
MAYDAY
MAYDAY 30'/9m 25'/8m 3 Green Yellow White Showy fragrant flower clusters in May.
Prunus padus commutata Black bitter fruit attracts birds.
MAYDAY - ADVANCE 30 ft 10 ft 3 Green Yellow White Columnar form of Mayday
Punus padus commutata 'Advance' 9m 25m Flowers bloom earlier than standard Maydays
ETHEL MAYDAY 30'/9m 25'/8m 3 Green Yellow Pink Pink flowers for unique spring show
MOUNTAIN ASH - Sorbus
AMERICAN americana 25'/8m 20'/6m 3 Green Orange White Fruit attracts birds; lacy leaves; good fall color
DWARF reducta 1'/30cm 3'/1m 3 Green Orange White Very-low growing; pink berries
COLUMNAR auc. 'Fastigiata 25'/8m 9'/3m 3 Green Orange White Orange-red berries on narrow tree.
EUROPEAN aucuparia 30'/9m 20'/6m 3 Green Orange White Similar to American but larger; Rowan Tree
KOEHNE'S/CHINESE 7'/2m 3'/1m 4 Green Orng/red White White berries; striking fall color
OAKLEAF hybrida 30'/9m 20'/6m 3 Green Yellow White Leaves shaped like oak leaves; red-orange berries
RUSSIAN aucuparia ‘Rossica 25'/8m 12'/4m 3 Green Orange White Selection of European ; Upright columnar growth.
SHOWY decora 20'/6m 15'/5m 2 Green Orange White Hardiest mt. ash with lacy compound leaves.
OAK-BURR 30 ft. 20 ft. 3 Green Yellow Acorns Rare, slow growing, hardy oak for the prairies.
Quercus macrocarpa 9 m. 6 m. Produces acorns. Lobed leaves. Corky bark.
OHIO BUCKEYE 20 ft. 15 ft. 3 Green Yellow Light Large compound leaves.
Aesculus glabra 6 m. 5 m. Yellow Interesting prickly nuts follow flowers.
PEAR Pyrus spp. Two varieties required for cross pollination.
EARLY GOLD 20'/6m 15'/5m 2 Green Amber White Very hardy, disease resistant, fruit like Ure
GOLDEN SPICE 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Amber White Showy spring flowers; fruit good for cook or can
MICHENER 20'/6m 15'/5m 4 Green Amber White Showy spring flowers; mid-sized fruit
URE 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Amber White Sm. sweet, green fruit for canning; showy blooms
PIN CHERRY 16 ft. 10 ft. 3 Green Orange White Small ornamental tree with fragrant flowers.
Prunus pensylvanica 5 m. 3 m. Red cherries in fall attract birds. Reddish bark.
 deciduous trees all trees listed subject to seasonal
TREES and SHrUBS
and supplier availability
Summer Fall
Names Height Spread Zone Foliage Foliage Flower Features
Color Color Color
PIN CHERRY 15 ft 10 ft 3 Green Red White Large weeping shrub - can be trained to tree form
JUMPING POUND 5 m 3 m Small bright red berries in mid-summer
PLUM
BROOKGOLD 15' 12' 3 Green Amber White Gold skinned, tasty fruit.
Prunus ‘Brookgold’ 5 m. 4 m. Ripens in August. Good fresh or canned.
Cross pollinate with Nanking or Sandcherry.
BROOKRED 15 ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Red skinned and orange fleshed, larger fruit.
Prunus ‘Brookred’ 5 m. 4 m. Ripens in August. Good for canning.
Cross pollinate with Pembina or Opata.
BOUNTY 15 ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Hardy and productive tree
Prunus 'Bounty' 5 m. 4 m. Sour fruit very good for preserves
OPATA 15ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Greenish-purple skinned and green fleshed fruit.
Prunus ‘Opata’ 5 m. 4 m. Ripens in August. Good for eating fresh and jelly.
Pollinates with Brookred or Pembina.
PEMBINA 15 ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Purple skinned,orange fleshed, larger fruit.
Prunus 'Pembina' 5 m. 4 m. Ripens in Sept. Good for eating fresh.
Pollinates with Brookred or Opata.
TECUMSEH 15 ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Bears heavy crops of red plums with yellow flesh
Prunus 'Tecumseh' 5 m. 4 m. One of the earliest to ripen.
Plum - Canadian Wild Prunus nigra
PRINCESS KAY 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Amber white Double-flowering; very fragrant
POPLAR Populus spp.
BROOKS #6 50'/15m 40'/12m 2 Green Yellow Catkins Large hardy fast-growing; good for large area
BYLAND GREEN 50'/15m 25'/10m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Fast growing tree for acreage or large area.
NORTHWEST 65'/20m 50'/15m 2 Green Yellow Catkins Largest and fastest growing poplar tree.
TOWER canescens ‘Tower’ 30'/9m 7'/2m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Narrow columnar tree for smaller yards.
TRISTIS 40'/12m 30'/9m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Rapid growing round headed tree.
RUSSIAN OLIVE 20 ft. 12 ft. 4 Silver Yellow Yellow Small tree with attractive silver leaves.
Elaeagnus angustifolia 6 m. 4 m. Fragrant flowers. Drought tolerant.
CHOKECHERRY Prunus virginiana
112 SCHUBERT 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Purple Purple White Black cherries; new leaves green but mature purple
BAILEY SELECT 21'/7m 12'/4m 3 Maroon Dk. Purple White Spring foliage matures maroon; black berries
SPUR SCHUBERT 15'/5m 10'/3m 3 Maroon Dk. Purple White Compact Schubert; purple berries
WESTERN CHOKECHERRY 16 ft. 13 ft. 2 Green Yellow White Multi-stemmed, native tree that attract birds.
Prunus virginiana melanocarpa 5 m. 4 m. Black cherries follow fragrant spring flowers.
WILLOW - Salix
GOLDEN alba vitellina 30'/9m 25'/8m 4 Green Yellow Catkins Fast growing; attractive golden stems
LAUREL LEAF pentandra 30'/9m 25'/8m 3 Green Green Catkins Fast growing; glossy leaves; water-loving
SILVER/WHITE alba sericea 35'/10m 20'/6m 3 Silver Silver Catkins Fast growing ; silver summer foliage; likes water
shrubfavorites
Azalea/Rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.)
These compact shrubs grow in an open, upright fash-
ion. The leathery, glossy leaves are dark green in color.
The fully double clusters of flowers, produced in late
May or early June, are available in a number of colors,
depending on variety. Azaleas and Rhododendrons re-
quire a partially shaded, sheltered location and damp,
acidic soil. Winter protection is recommended. Look for
the University of Finland varieties of Rhododendrons
like Helsinki, Haaga, and Mikelli. Good azaleas are the
Northern Lights and Orchid Lights series.
Caragana (Caragana spp.)
These fine-textured, drought-resistant shrubs come in
many forms from upright pyramidal to grafted weeping
and dwarf compact. They all produce bright yellow
pea-like flowers in June followed by pea-like pods
which ‘explode’ when ripe. Common caragana is good
mainly for tall hedges or windbreaks. Fern leaf varieties
grow in an upright, weeping fashion with very narrow
light green leaves. Globe and pygmy caraganas are
compact, upright, and spreading and occasionally are
grafted to upright forms for specimen or accent shrubs.
Also grafted are Walker’s Weeping Caraganas which
are formal, fine textured, and highly weeping. Very
alkaline tolerant.
Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster spp.)
These vigorously growing, upright, and spreading
shrubs are dense and full in their growth habit. The
glossy, dark green leaves form right to the base of the
plant and turn a bright orange-red color in the early fall
in Peking Cotoneasters. Purple-black berries follow the
inconspicuous white flowers. These very hardy shrubs
are widely used as a hedge plant. European Cotoneas-
ters have dark green leaves with wooly undersides and
duller fall color but do well in shadier locations.
Dogwood (Cornus spp.)
The dogwood varieties that do well in Southern Alberta
are grown primarily for foliage in the summer and as a
winter color specimen due to their attractive bark. Most
grow in rounded upright fashion with inconspicuous
flowers followed by colored berries in fall. Variegated
forms, those bearing leaves with white or yellow mixed
with green, are Golden Variegated, Siberian Variegat-
ed, and Silver-Leafed. Dogwood good for winter color
are Isanti, Kesselring, Red Osier, and Yellow-Twigged.
Varieties that have prominent berries are Isanti, Red
Osier, and Siberian Coral.
TREES and SHRUBS
Double Flowering Plum (Prunus triloba ‘Multiplex’)
These attractive shrubs grow in an upright spread-
ing fashion. The three-lobed leaves are dark green
and create a dense, full shrub. The fully double, pale
pink flowers are produced in clusters along the stems
before the leaves form in the spring. These shrubs
are one of the most popular large flowering shrubs
available. These shrubs will adapt to shady spots
but flower and grow best in bright, sunny locations.
(Pictured above)
Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.)
These coarse textured shrubs grow in an upright ball-
like fashion. The large oval leaves are green in color.
Annabelle Hydrangea bears large, flat clusters of white
flowers that are showy and long lasting. Pee Gee Hy-
drangeas are more open in form and produces pinkish
flowers in large, pyramidal clusters. Hydrangea End-
less Summer, is the first Hydrangea macrophylla that
blooms on both old and new wood, for large colorful
flower mops, virtually all season long. Endless Sum-
mer can flower repeatedly on new wood, so you can
be confident that regardless of whether the plant dies 113
back to the crown or is trimmed at the wrong time, you’ll
still get wonderful flowers that grow all season. Plant
hydrangea in heavy soil in shady or partially shady,
sheltered locations.
Potentilla (Potentilla spp.)
These fine textured shrubs grow in an upright, com-
pact, naturally rounded form. The compound leaves
are a light green color. The bright single yellow, white,
pink, or red flowers vary in shade and intensity de-
pending on the variety. These hardy native shrubs
are popular since they produce flowers throughout
the growing season. Plant potentillas in a sunny or
partially shaded location. Varieties commonly available
are Abbotswood, Coronation Triumph, Goldfinger, Pink
Beauty, and Red Robin.
Spirea (Spiraea spp.)
There are a wide variety of these popular accent
shrubs. Most grow in a low, mounding or spreading
fashion. Additionally, many produce beautiful flowers
in the early summer. Bridal Wreath spirea feature white
blossoms cascading along arched branches. Frobelli
and Anthony Waterer both sport light red flowers in
flat-topped clusters. Goldmound spireas have coarsely
toothed leaves in a lime-green color with small light-
pink flowers. Please see our shrub tables for further
varieties. Plant in sun or partial sun.
 shrubs
your questions
TREES and SHrUBS

the problem becomes out of control pruning of infected

leaves is useful.

Q: I enjoy growing and harvesting fruit. What can I grow

other than raspberries, strawberries, and saskatoon
berries?
A: There are many bush fruits that do quite well in our area.
These include gooseberry, currant, sour cherry, nanking
cherry, cranberry, and grape. Plant in well-drained rich
clay loam and mulch with grass clippings, bark chips,
or chopped straw to conserve moisture and maintain a
cool soil temperature. Grapes should be planted in a very
sheltered south-facing location in order for them to get the
necessary sunlight and make it through the winter. Ensure
that your plants are well watered before going into winter
as this will help them survive the cold weather.

Q: Why do my lilacs only have a few flowers each

year? I water, fertilize, and shape them every year,
and the foliage looks nice and healthy.
A:Lilacs are often pruned too late, and this will remove
the flower buds for next years crop of flowers. The
114 proper time to prune lilacs, forsythia, double flowering
plum, nanking cherries, and any other shrubs that
flower on old wood is right after flowering. You do this
because these shrubs set the next years flower buds
soon after they are finished flowering.

Q: What are the best shrubs to use for a hedge

between houses?
A: The most consistent and true hedge plant in the
Calgary area is the cotoneaster. It’s not only very dense
it will also provide a fall colour, and a great screen for
a hedge up to 6-7’. If you are looking for something
taller caragana is the best shrub to use for hedges 7’or
more. You can also use most other types of shrubs,
but they will not give you a manicured look like
cotoneasters.
Q: I have a bad time with powdery mildew on my
shrubs...
A: This is a problem for many gardeners, especially for
plants that get more shade. The best ways to combat
this problem is to maintain proper pruning practices
to allow more air movement and sunlight within and
between plants. Watering is also best done in the
morning to ensure that leaves do not stay wet for a
long period of time. It is best if possible to keep the
water off the leaves altogether. Most fungicides do
work if applied in the early stages of the disease. If
Q: Do plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons, and
hydrangeas grow in this area?
A: Yes they do grow in this area, however they cannot just
be planted and left alone as many of the hardier plants
such as potentilla. Due to our extreme low and fluctuating
temperatures in winter these plants must be protected.
Take advantage of the insulating properties of snow by
planting them in an area of your garden that will get a lot of
snow. If this is not feasible mulch with dry leaves or straw
and always water before winter to help with cold weather
survival. East exposure is the best location for these plants
if you are going to try them. That protects them from the
southwest chinook winds or the burning north winds in
the winter.
 shrubs
pictures

TREES and SHRUBS

Fruit on American Cranberry Azalea Wayfaring Tree

Cranberry Dwarf American Forsythia Waterton Mockorange 115

Abbotswood Potentilla

Nanking Cherry Goldflame Spirea

 cherry bomb
TREES and SHrUBS

shrubsbarberry
sunsation

Berberis thunbergii
After a 30-year absence Barberry has finally returned
to Canada! This beautiful plant makes an excellent
low hedge, barrier planting, single shrub accent, or
contrast plant. When first planted water well until
the shrub is well established. Do not let barberries
dry out in the first few weeks following transplanting.
Once the barberry is established begin to water as
rose glow

required.

Cherry Bomb
• compact branches with deep crimsonfoliage
• bright red berries in fall and winter
• grows approximately 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide
golden nugget

Sunsation
• compact dwarf golden barberry
116 • good for colour contrast
• keep out of full sun - morning or filtered sun only
• grows approximately 3-4 feet tall and wide

Rose Glow
• graceful arching branch rose-red glow over mottled white and
green spring foliage
• bright red berries in fall and winter
• grow approximately 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide
emerald carousel ruby carousel

Golden Nugget
• compact dwarf golden barberry
• keep out of full sun - filtered or morning sunlight only
• grows approximately 12 inches tall and 18 inches wide

Ruby Carousel
• excellent hedge, accent or barrier plant with thorny stems
• superb red colour and uniform habit
• prefers moist, well-drained soil
• grows approximately 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide

Emerald Carousel
• excellent hedge, accent or barrier plant with arching thorny stems
• The foliage is green but turns dark red to purple in the fall
• prefers moist, well-drained soil
• grows approximately 5 feet tall and 5 feet wide
shrubs all shrubs listed subject to seasonal

TREES and SHRUBS

and supplier availability
Sun ™
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage Flower Features Part Shade »
Color Color
Shade ˜

AMUR MAPLE - RED RHAPSODY 15 ft 15 ft ™–» 3 Green Red Brilliant red fall colour; very hardy
Acer ginalla 'Red Rhapsody' 5m 5m Small, fragrant yellowish flowers in spring
ARROWOOD 7 ft. 5 ft. ™–» 4 Green White Showy umbrella-shaped flower clusters in
Viburnum dentatum 2 m. 1.5 m. spring. Attractive autumn red leaf color.
ASHLEAF or FALSE SPIREA 7 ft. 7 ft. ™– ˜ 2 Green Cream Spreading shrub which will grow in any
Sorbaria sorbifolia 2 m. 2 m. White landscape. Lacy foliage produces plumes of
flowers.
AZALEA 3 ft. 3 ft. ™–» Plant in sheltered area in moist peaty soil
Rhododendron Lights Varieties 1 m. 1 m.
LEMON LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Red/OR Red-orange flowers with a delicate fragrance
GOLDEN LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Gold Gold double flower clusters in late spring.
MANDARIN LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Orange Orange double flower clusters in late spring.
ORCHID LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Purple Purple double flower clusters in late spring.
ROSY LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Pink Pink double flower clusters in late spring.
WHITE LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green White White double flower clusters in late spring.
BARBERRY Berberis thunbergii
BURGUNDY CAROUSEL 3'/1m 3'/1m ™–» 4 Purple Yellow Spreadng variety with drooping foliage
CHERRY BOMB 3'/1m 3'/1m ™–» 4 Red/Purp Yellow Compact variety; slow growing
EMERALD CAROUSEL 5'/1.6m 5'/1.6m ™–» 4 Green Yellow Arching foliage; red berries; bright fall color
GOLDEN NUGGET 1'/0.3m 1.5'/0.5m ™–» 4 Gold Yellow Compact, slow-growing; orange fall cololr
ROSE GLOW 4'/1.3m 4'/1.3m ™–» 4 Rose-pink Yellow Mottled rose-pink foliage matures deep red-purple
ROYAL BURGUNDY 3'/1m 3'/1m ™–» 4 Purple Yellow Dwarf rounded form; black-red in fall
RUBY CAROUSEL 3'/1m 3'/1m ™–» 4 Rose-pink Yellow Mottled rose-pink foliage matures deep red-purple
SUNSATION 3'/1m 3'/1m ™–» 4 Gold Yellow Compact; new growth green-gold matures gold
BLUEBERRIES - see our bush fruit section
BROOM
DWARF -Genista lydia 2'/0.6m 3'/1m ™ 4 Green Yellow Fine textured sprawling shrub. Flowers in June. 117
ROYAL GOLD - Genista tinctoria 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 4 Green Yellow Flowers in tall conical panicles on new growth
BUFFALOBERRY - RUSSET 10 ft 7 ft ™ 2 Green Yellow Hardy native, nitrogen-fixing shrub; drought
Sheperdia canadensis 3m 2m tolerant. Sour yellow-orange fruit popular with
birds
BUFFALOBERRY-SILVER 10 ft. 7 ft. ™ 2 Silver Yellow Hardy native, drought resistant, spiny shrub.
Sheperdia argentea 3 m. 2 m. Red berries on female plants.
BURNING BUSH - DWARF WINGED 6 ft. 10 ft. ™–» 4 Green Flaming red fall color
Euonymous alata compacta 2 m. 3 m. Excellent for small shrub beds and hedges
BURNING BUSH -TURKESTAN 1.5 ft. 3 ft. ™–» 2 Green Pink Low sprawling shrub with linear leaves.
Euonymus nanus 'Turkestanica' 0.5 m. 1 m. Rose fall foliage color appears to be burning.
CARAGANA ™–» 2 Green Yellow Siberian pea-shrub. Drought tolerant.
Caragana arborescens var. Excellent hedge, shelterbelt or windbreak.
COMMON 13'/4m 7'/2m 2
FERNLEAF - 'Lorbergii' 13'/4m 10'/3m 2 Green Yellow Lacy leaves on this graceful plant.
SUTHERLAND 13'/4m 5'/1.5m 2 Green Yellow Tall, columnar, accent plant.
WALKER'S WEEPING 5'/1.5m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Fine lacy foliage hangs from weeping branches.
WEEPING - 'Pendula' 7'/2m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Weeping, grafted variety with oval leaflets.
CARAGANA-GLOBE 3 ft. 3 ft. ™– » 2 Green Yellow Globe-shaped shrub that requires no pruning.
Caragana frutex 'Globosa' 1 m. 1 m. One of the woody plants of yr. in 1996, 97 & 98.
CARAGANA-PYGMY 3 ft. 5 ft. ™– » 2 Green Yellow Spiny shrub with spring flowers.
Caragana pygmaea 1 m. 1.5 m. Useful armed hedge plant for dry area.
CHERRY - EVANS 12'/4m 9'/3m ™ 3 Green White Excellent fruiting type; fruit bright red
Prunus cerasus Rose Cherry a dark brown variety also available.
CHERRY-MONGOLIAN 3 ft. 3 ft. ™ 3 Green White White flowers and glossy green leaves.
Prunus fruticosa 1 m. 1 m. Red sour cherries for jelly.
CHERRY-NANKING 10 ft. 7 ft. ™ 2 Green Light Red edible cherries are great for jelly.
Prunus tomentosa 3 m. 2 m. Pink Our most popular large flowering shrub.
 shrubs all shrubs listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability
Sun
TREES and SHrUBS
™
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage Flower Features Part Shade »
Color Color Shade ˜

CHERRY - NANKING 'Alba' 10 ft 7 ft ™ 2 Green Light White-fruiting variety

Prunus tomentosa 'Alba' 3 m 2 m pink Fruit excellent for jelly; popular with birds
CHERRY - NANKING 'Lee's Black' 10 ft 7 ft ™ 2 Green light Black-fruiting variety
Prunus tomentosa 'Lee's Black' 3 m 2m pink Good for jellies; popular with birds
CHERRY PRINSEPIA 5 ft. 3 ft. ™ 2 Green Yellow Spiny hardy shrub for the Prairies with red fruit.
Prinsepia sinensis 1.5 m. 1 m. Useful as an armed barrier plant.
CHERRY-WESTERN SAND 3 ft. 3 ft. ™ 3 Green White Olive-green leaves and black sour cherries.
Prunus besseyi 1 m. 1 m. Sprawling shrub is used as late plum pollinator.
CHOKECHERRY - AUTMUN MAGIC 5 ft. 3 ft. ™ 3 Green White Abundant edible black cherrries attract birds in fall
Aronia melanocarpa 1.5 m. 1 m. Red fall color
COTONEASTER
Hedge or Peking - acutifolia 7'/2m 5'/1.5m ™ 2 Green pink Hedge plant; leaves turn red in fall, very popular
CENTENNIAL - integerrimus 8'/2.5m 8'/2.5m ™–» 3 Green pink Arching branches; prefers moist areas
CRANBERRY - Viburnum opulus varieties
COMPACT EUROPEAN 8'/2.5m 8'/2.5m ™–» 2 Green White Standard cultivar; red fruit; Densely flower & fruit
European Dwarf 2'/.6m 2'/.6m ™–» 3 Green Sterile Dwarf shrub for shaded, moist area; purple fall
color
CRANBERRY - Viburnum trilobum varieties Suitable for shaded moist areas.
AMERICAN HIGHBUSH 10'/3m 7'/2m ™–» 2 Green White Green lobed leaves turn red in the fall.
BAILEY COMPACT 5'/1.5m 2'/1m ™–» 2 Green White Compact shrub with colorful red fall foliage.
DWARF AMERICAN 3'/1m 3'/1m ™–» 2 Green White Edible red berries in summer; red fall foliage
CRANBERRY - WENTWORTH 10 ft. 7 ft. ™–» 3 Green White Prolific bloomer and heavy fruit producer
Viburnum spp. 3 m. 2 m. Red fall color
CURRANT-ALPINE 5 ft. 5 ft. ™–» 2 Green Green Small green flowers and lobed leaves.
Ribes alpinum 1.5 m. 1.5 m. Used for mass planting.
CURRANT- BUSH FRUIT VARIETIES - see our bush fruit section
CURRANT-GOLDEN 5 ft. 5 ft. ™–» 3 Green Gold- Fragrant flowers in spring; good for hedging
Ribes aureum 1.5 m. 1 m. Yellow Dark berries are good for jelly.
118 DOGWOOD - Cornus alba varieties
BUD'S YELLOW 7'/2m 7'/2m ™–» 3 Green wht/ylw Beautiful yellow twigs for winter colour
GOLDEN Variegated - 'Gouchaultii' 7'/2m 5'/1.5m ™–» 3 Green White Variegated green and gold leaves on red stems.
GREY 7'/2m 5'/1.5m ™–» 3 Green White Smooth light-grey bark; moist, well-drained soil
IVORY HALO 7'/2m 5'/1.5m ™–» 3 Green White Bright red stems and silver variegated leaves
KESSELRING 5'/1.5m 5'/1.5m ™–» 3 Green White Deep purple stems are outstanding in winter.
PRAIRIE FIRE 6'/2m 4'/1.6m ™–» 2 Gold White Beautiful red foliage in fall.
SIBERIAN 7'/2m 5'/1.5m ™–» 3 Green White Vivid red stems in winter; white berries attract birds
SIBERIAN VARIEGATED 7'/2m 5'/1.5m ™–» 3 Grn/Wht White Foliage has red fall color. Bluish berries.
SILVER Variegated 7'/2m 5'/1.5m ™–» 3 Grn/Wht White Very popular foliage plant for color contrast.
DOGWOOD - Cornus sericea varieties
ISANTI 3'/1m 3'/1m ™–» 3 Green White Compact selection of Red Osier dogwood.
KELSEY 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m ™–» 3 Green White Dwarf selection of Red Osier dogwood.
RED OSIER 7'/2m 5'/1.5m ™–» 3 Green White Red stems for winter color; shrub spreads by
stolons.
ELDER
BLACK BEAUTY 6'/2m 6'/2m ™ 4 Black Pink Striking new variety - black foliage & pink blooms!
BLACK LACE 7’/2m 6’/2m ™ 4 Black Pink Japanese Maple-like leaves, New Product!
GOLDEN 7'/2m 5'/1.5m ™ 3 Gold White Golden yellow foliage color in summer and fall.
GOLDEN PLUME- 'Plumosa Aurea' 7'/2m 5'/1.5m ™ 3 Gold Cream Golden yellow, deeply serrated leaves.
GUINCHO PURPLE 10'/3m 7'/2m ™ 3 purple Cream Foliage is especially striking when grown in full sun
MADONNA 10'/3m 7'/2m ™ 3 white and Cream Compact plant with white and dark green foliage
RED 10'/3m 7'/2m ™ 3 Green Cream Serrated green leaflets; fruit used for jelly/wine.
SUTHERLAND CUTLEAF 7'/2m 7'/2m ™ 3 Golden Cream Golden yellow dissected leaves; good contrast
FORSYTHIA-NORTHERN GOLD 5 ft. 3 ft. ™–» 3 Green Yellow Profusion of yellow flowers early in spring.
Forsythia ovata 'Northern Gold' 1.5 m. 1 m.
shrubs all shrubs listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability
Sun

TREES and SHRUBS

™
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage Flower Features Part Shade »
Color Color Shade ˜

GOOSEBERRY- see our bush fruit section

HONEYSUCKLE
ALBERT REGAL 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 3 Blu/Grn Purple Fragrant flowers then blue berries; narrow leaves
ARNOLD RED 10'/3m 5'/1.5m ™–» 3 Green Dark Red Dark red fruit follow dark red fragrant flowers.
SWEETBERRY 5'/1.5m 3'/1m ™ 3 Green White Compact shrub with shredding bark; fruit edible.
DWARF BUSH - Diervilla lonicera 3'/1m 3'/1m ™–» 3 Green Yellow Compact native North American shrub
HYDRANGEA
ANNABELLE 3'/1m 3'/1m » 3-4 Green White Large, white, flat flower clusters; shady moist area
BLUSHING BRIDE 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 4-5 Green White Blooms fade to pink/blue as they age
ENDLESS SUMMER 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 3-4 Green Blue/Pink Blooms all summer, good cutflower
PEE GEE 3'/1m 3'/1m » 3-4 Green Lt/Pink Showy, large, pinkish pyramidal flower clusters.
TARDIVA 7'/2m 7'/2m » 3-4 Green Lt/Pink Blooms later than other panicle hydrangeas
MOCKORANGE - Philadelphus spp.
GALAHAD 5'/1.5m 5'/1.5m ™–» 4 Dk Grn White Fragrant single blooms; rounded form
MINIATURE SNOWFLAKE 3'/1m 3'/1m ™–» 4 Green White Fragrant double blooms; compact rounded form.
MINNESOTA SNOWFLAKE 5'/1.5m 3'/1m ™–» 3 Green White Fragrant flowering shrub; Double white in summer.
SNOWBELLE 4'/1.3m 4'/1.3m ™ 4 Green White Fragrant double white blooms; very adaptable.
VIRGINAL 8'/3m 4'/1.5m ™–» 4 Green White Double, white very fragrant flowers; needs pruning
WATERTON 7'/2m 5'/1.5m ™–» 2 Green White Hardy Mockorange from Waterton Park in AB.
NANNYBERRY 10 ft. 7 ft. ™–» 3 Green White Glossy green foliage turns bright red in fall.
Viburnum lentago 3 m. 2 m. Flowers turn into clusters of black berries.
NINEBARK - Physocarpus spp.
DART'S GOLD 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 3 Golden White Deep pink fruit in late summer; Compact shrub
DIABOLO 7'/2m 5'/1.5m ™–» 3 Purple White Flowers in summer; Strong, upright growth.
GOLDEN 5'/1.5m 3'/1m ™ 3 Golden White Golden yellow colorful foliage.
NUGGET 5'/1.5m 4/1.3m ™ 3 Golden White Foliage turns lime green as season progresses
SUMMER WINE 4'/1.3m 6'/1.6m ™ 3 Bronze White New compact form;good for contrast w/gold shrub
PLUM-DOUBLE FLOWERING 7 ft. 5 ft. ™ 3 Green Pink Emergence of flowers signifies spring arrival.
119
Prunus triloba 'Multiplex' 2 m. 1.5 m. Spectacular pink double flowers before leaves.
POTENTILLA
ABBOTSWOOD 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green White Most popular white flowering potentilla.
CORONATION TRIUMPH 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Yellow Longest blooming period of all potentilla.
GOLD DROP 2'/0.6m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Yellow Larger yellow flowers on this compact shrub.
GOLDFINGER 5'/1.5m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Yellow Popular and largest yellow flowering potentilla.
GOLD STAR 2'/0.6m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Golden Golden yellow flowers on this dwarf shrub.
JACKMAN 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Yellow Very durable; good for xeriscaping
KATHERINE DYKES 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Yellow Creamy yellow flowers on this old standby.
MANGO TANGO 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Golden Golden yellow blooms; New variety!
MOONLIGHT 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Yellow Light yellow flowers with woolly foliage.
ORANGE WHISPER 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Orange Orange flowers on this uniform mounded shrub.
PINK BEAUTY 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Pink Double pink flowers on this mounding shrub.
PINK QUEEN 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Pink Very light pink flowers
RED ACE 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m ™ 3 Green Red Red-yellow flowers on this compact shrub.
RED ROBIN 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m ™ 3 Green Red- Hardier selection of Red Ace retains color better.
SNOWBIRD 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m ™ 3 Green White 80% of the flowers double; hardy, compact
SNOWFLAKE 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green White Beautiful white blooms
SUNSET 2'/0.6m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Orange Brick orange flowers simulate sunset.
SUTTER'S GOLD 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m ™ 3 Green Yellow Large creamy yellow flowers
TANGERINE 3'/1m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Amber Amber flowers on this spreading shrub.
YELLOW BIRD 2'/0.6m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Yellow Bright yellow flowers on this compact shrub.
YELLOW GEM 1.5'/0.5m 3'/1m ™ 2 Green Yellow Bright yellow flowers on this spreading shrub.
RASPBERRY - please see our bush fruit section
RHODODENDRON
ALBUM 3'/1m 3'/1m ™–» 3 Evergreen White White flowers early spring; Very hardy
TREES and SHrUBS shrubs all shrubs listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability
Sun ™
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage Flower Features Part Shade »
Color Color Shade ˜

Boursalt 3'/1m 3'/1m ™–» 3 Evergreen Purple light purple flower in early spring; Compact growth
CLOUDLAND 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m ™–» 4 Evergreen Purple Funnel-shaped blooms; tiny, aromatic leaves
RHODODENDRON - FINNISH VAR. 5'/1.5m 5'/1.5m ™–» 3 Evergreen varies Very hardy Finnish cultivars
'Haaga' pink Round crowns; upright habit
'Hellikki' purple purple-red flowers fade; buds covered in down
'Helsinki University' pink upright growth habit; red-tinged new growth
'Mikkeli' white dark-green foliage; blooms midsummer
''Peter Tigerstedt' white flowers have dark patches
'Pohjola's Daughter' pink violet-red flower buds; white, blotched flowers
NORTHERN STARBURST 3’/1m 3’/1m  4-5 Evergreen Pink Ruffled blooms with yellowish center
PJM 3’/1m 3’/1m  4 Evergreen Pink Trumpet shaped blooms early in spring; hardiest
PJM COMPACT 3’/1m 3’/1m  4 Evergreen Pink Compact version of above plant; Likes acidic soil.
NOVA ZEMBLA 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m  4 Evergreen Lavender Very hardy variety with lavender -red blooms
RAMAPO 2’/0.6m 2’/0.6m  4-5 Evergreen Blue Pale violet-blue flowers;New growth is blue-green
ROSEUM 3’/1m 3’/1m  4-5 Evergreen Pink Rosy-lilac flowers fade to pink;large green leaves
ROSE DAPHNE - Daphne cneorum
CAROL MACKI 2’/0.6m 3’/1m  4 Green/cream Pink Beautiful variegated leaves; Excellent for rock
gardens
ROSE DAPHNE 1’/0.3m 2’/0.6m  4 Evergreen Pink Flowers early spring; good for areas insulated by
snow.
RUSSIAN ALMOND 5 ft. 5 ft.  3 Green Pink Plum-like, fuzzy almonds.
Prunus tenella 1.5 m. 1.5 m. Small shrub for mass planting.
RUSSIAN OLIVE 16 ft. 13 ft.  3-4 Silver Yellow Outstanding silvery foliage and fragrant flowers.
Eleagnus angustifolia 5 m. 4 m. Large multi-stemmed shrub small specimen tree.
SALTBUSH (Russian Salt Tree) 6’/2m 6’/2m  3 silver-grey purple- Deep penetrating roots; tolerates saline soils
Halimodendron halodendron white Reproduces from seeds and from roots.
SASKATOON - see our bush fruit section
120 SANDCHERRY - PURPLE-LEAF 7 ft. 5 ft.  3 Purple Light Spectacular purple foliage on this accent plant.
Prunus cistena 2 m. 1.5 m. Pink Most popular shrub for color contrast.
SEA BUCKTHORN 13 ft. 10 ft.  2 Silver Yellow Thorny shrub with silver linear leaves,orange
Hippophae rhamnoides 4 m. 3 m. berries. Drought tolerant and hardier than Russian
olive.
SNOWBALL 7 ft. 5 ft.  3 Green White Showy snowball-shaped flower clusters in spring.
Viburnum opulus roseum/sterilis 2 m. 1.5 m. Suitable shrub for shaded moist area.
SNOWBERRY 3 ft. 3 ft.  2 Green Pink Native hardy, small shrub.
Symphoricarpos albus 1 m. 1 m. White berries in winter attract wildlife.
SPINDLE TREE 10’/3m 10’/3m  4 Green Yellow Green branches have corky strips like Burning
Euonymous europaeus Green Bush. Red fall color; flower clusters; showy orange
seeds
SPIRAEA
ANTHONY WATERER 2’/0.6m. 3’/1m  3 Green Pink Low growing with long blooming season
BILLARDI TRIUMPHANS 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m  3 Green Pink Large deep-pink flower spikes; Summer blooming
BRIDAL WREATH 7’/2m. 5’/1.5m  3 Green White Arching branches veiled with white flowers in June.
CRISPA 2’/0.6m 2.5’/0.8m 3 Grn-Brnz Pink Deeply serated, crinkled leaves;continous blooms
DART’S RED 3’/1m 3’/1m  4 Green Red Similar to Anthony Waterer but with darker blooms
FAIRY QUEEN 2’/0.6m 2’/0.6m  3 Green White Low sprawling shrub with white flowers in June.
FLOWERING CHOICE 1’/30cm 1’/30cm  3 Green Pink Similar to Little Princess but smaller with larger
flowers
FROEBELLII 3’/1m 3’/1m  2 Green Pink Similar to Anthony Waterer but hardier and taller.
GARLAND 3’/1m 3’/1m  3 Green White Spring blooms; garlands of flowers; fine-textured
foliage
GOLDEN CARPET 3’/1m 3’/1m  3 Green Tri-color White, pink, and red flowers on this compact shrub
GREEN CARPET 8”/20cm 1’/30cm  3 Green Pink Foliage turns red-purple in the fall
GOLDFLAME 3’/1m 3’/1m  3 Gold Pink Compact shrub for color contrast in the landscape.
GOLDMOUND 2’/0.6m 3’/1m  3-4 Gold Pink Compact substitute for Goldflame spirea.
shrubs all shrubs listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability

TREES and SHRUBS

Sun ™
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage Flower Features Part Shade »
Color Color
Shade ˜
GUMBALL 3’/1m 3’/1m  4 Green Pink Compact form of Froebellii; very adaptable
HALWARD’S SILVER 3’/1m 3’/1m  3 Green White Compact selection of nipponica species
KOREAN 3’/1m 3’/1m  4 Green White Mounding shrub covered with blooms
LITTLE PRINCESS 2’/0.6m 3’/1m  4 Green Pink Dwarf compact mound shape; Foliage turns dark
red in fall.
MAGIC CARPET 1’/30 cm 3’/1m  4 Gold, Red Pink Forms a miniature compact mound
MINI SUNGLO 1’/30 cm 2’/0.6cm  3 Gold Pink Dense dwarf similar to Goldmound
NEON FLASH 3’/1m 3’/1m  3 Green Pink Similar to Anthony Waterer with darker blooms
RENAISSANCE 4’/1.3m 4’/1.3m  3 Green White Graceful arching display of white flowers in spring
SHIROBANA 3’/1m 3’/1m  4 Green Pnk/Wht Serrated lacy foliage with pink, red&white flowers.
SNOWMOUND 4’/1.3m 4’/1.3m  3 Green White Small, blue-green leaves; fine white flowers in
mid-summer
SNOWHITE 5’/1.5m 3’/1m  2 Green Pink Abundant flowers along arching branches in June.
SPARKLING CARPET 10”/25cm16”/40cm  3 Lime/Gold Pink Fine spreading shrub; nice fall color; few blooms
THOR 3’/1m 3’/1m  4 Green White Deep green, leaves different from other spiraeas
THREE-LOBED 3’/1m 3’/1m  2 Green White Graceful arching branches; three-lobed leaves
WHITE SWAN 3’/1m 3’/1m  3 Green White Ball-shaped shrub with pure white flowers in June.
SUMAC - Rhus spp.
CUTLEAF 7’/2m. 7’/2m.  3 Green Yellow Bright fall coloration; flower panicles last all winter
CUTLEAF SMOOTH 7’/2m. 7’/2m.  3 Green Yellow Smooth bark and divided, lacy leaves;Red fallfruit.
GRO-LOW 1’/ 0.6m 7’/2m  4 Green Yellow Stems aromatic when bruised
THREE-LEAF 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m  3 Green Yellow Shiny green, oak leaf-shaped foliage; orange-red
berry
STAGHORN 10’/3m 5’/1.5m  3 Green Green Fern-like foliage. Red fall fruit and foliage.
Xeriscape plant.
TIGER EYES 7’/2m. 7’/2m.  4 Yellow White Golden cutleaf variety; new for 2005.
WAYFARING TREE 7 ft. 7 ft.  3 Gray- White Olive-green, leathery leaves.
Viburnum lantana 2 m. 2 m. Green Fruit turns from red to black.
WAYFARING TREE - MOHICAN 5 ft. 5 ft.  3 Gray- White Olive-green, leathery leaves. Red to black fruit.
121
Viburnum lantana ‘Mohican’ 1.5 m. 1.5 m. Green Compact selection of Wayfaring Tree.
WEIGELA - Weigela florida
ALEXANDRIA/WINE & ROSES 4’/1.3m 4’/1.3m  4 Purple Pink new variety; Leaves are a deep wine purple
CENTENNIAL 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m  3 Green Pink Pink tubular flowers in June, reblooms again later.
MINUET 3’/1m 3’/1m  4 Green Pink/Red Rose tubular flowers in June/reblooms again later.
RED PRINCE 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m  4 Green Red Red tubular flowers throughout the summer.
RUBY QUEEN 3’/1m 3’/1m  4 reddish Pink Reddish-burgundy foliage; very popular in Europe
WILLOW - Salix spp.
ARCTIC 3’/1m 3’/1m  3 Gray-Grn Mound-shaped with linear leaves and purple
stems.
BEBB 10’/3m 10’/3m  3 Gray-Grn Catkins Large multi-stemmed shrub or small tree
BLUE FOX 3’/1m 3’/1m  3 Bluish- Upright globe-shaped shrub; Colorful blue-gray
foliage.
COYOTE 12’/4m 12’/4m  3 Blue-gray Catkins Good in moist areas; good for riverside planting
CREEPING 2’/0.6m 6’/2m  3 Green Catkins Spreading form good for ground cover
HAKURA NISHIKI 3’/1m 3’/1m  4 Pnk/Wht Tricolor pink, white and green leaves.
FLAME 16’/5m. 10’/3m  3 Green Flaming red-orange bark for winter color.
POLAR BEAR 16’/5m. 6’/2m  2 Green Catkins Hairy silvery blue foliage, hardy variety.
PUSSY WILLOW - FRENCH 16’/5m 10’/3m  2 Green Catkins Silvery catkins appear in spring; llikes moist areas
SILVER CREEPING 2’/0.6m 7’/2m  3 Silver Catkins Creeping shrub with silver-grey foliage
YELLOW 12’/4m 12’/4m  2 Green Catkins Native species; good for wet areas
WOLF WILLOW 7 ft. 7 ft.  2 Silver Yellow Hardy, native shrub with silvery foliage.
Elaeagnus commutata 2 m. 2 m. Scented spring flowers. Drought tolerant.
LArGe CALiPer treeS

AVAiLABLe in Store noW

Located west creek side of the store.
small fruit all small fruit listed subject to sea-

TREES and SHRUBS

sonal and supplier availability
Size
Names Fruit Color Height/ Sun/ Fruit Features/Uses
Spread Shade
BLUEBERRIES: sun/part shade
BLUECROP dark blue 4/4ft most widely planted blueberry on earth
BLUEJAY medium blue 4/4ft large, firm berries with moderate to high yield
BLUERAY powder blue 4/4ft mid-season, large berries
CHIPPEWA light blue 4/4ft medium, very light blue, mid-season berries
NORTHBLUE dark blue 3/3 ft. dark blue, sweet flavored fruit
NORTHCOUNTRY sky blue 3/3 ft. mild, sweet, sky blue fruit
NORTHLAND dark blue 4/4 ft. wild berry tasting, dark blue fruit
NORTHSKY sky blue 2/2 ft. hardiest blueberry with sweet, sky blue fruit
PATRIOT medium blue 3/3ft large berries with high yield, excellent flavour
POLARIS light blue 3/3ft best ripening in northern gardens; new variety

CHERRIES: full sun

MONGOLIAN red 3/3 ft. sun sour cherries for jelly
NANKING red 10/10 ft. sun edible cherries great for jelly

CRANBERRY: please see our shrub section

CURRANTS: sun/partshade
BLACK black 3/3 ft. abundant black fruit for preserves
GOLDEN gold 5/5 ft. ornamental golden fragrant flowers
JOSTA dark red 6/3 ft. cross between black currant and gooseberry
RED LAKE red 3/3 ft. plentiful fruit produced for jelly
WHITE white 3/3 ft. mild flavored fruit for preserves

GOOSEBERRIES: sun/part shade

HINNONMAEKI RED red 3/3 ft. tart red, juicy fruit for preserves
HINNONMAEKI YELLOW green-gold 3/3 ft. tart green, juicy fruit for preserves
PIXWELL green 3/3 ft. productive fruit producer for preserves 123

GRAPES: sun or part shade
CANADICE red red seedless early variety for all uses
CONCORD blue popular blue variety used for fresh grape juice
INTERLAKEN green golden green seedless grapes to eat fresh
STEUBEN purple bluish-purple fruit used for jelly, juice or wine
VALIANT blue hardiest grape for the prairies used for jelly

RASPBERRIES: full sun
BLACK JEWEL dark purple 5/5 ft. hardy, heavy producer of purple, juicy fruit
BOYNE RED red 5/5 ft. hardy, heavy producer of sweet red berries
CHESTER black 5/5 vigorous, hardy variety; shiny black fruit
HERITAGE RED red 5/5 ft. everbearing producer in September
MEEKER red 5/5ft summer-bearing; medium to large berries
RED KILLARNEY red 5/5ft summer-bearing; deep red sweet fruit
SK RED MAMMOTH red 5/5 ft. hardy, very sweet red berry new from the UofS
SK RED BOUNTY red 5/5 ft. hardy, large red berry new from UofS
YELLOW-FALL GOLD gold-yellow 5/5 ft. new everbearing variety with unique gold fruit

SASKATOONS: full sun

ALTAGLOW white 10/5 ft. new variety with unique white fruit
HONEYWOOD purple 7/5 ft. later large fruit for eating fresh or pies
NORTHLINE purple 7/5 ft. productive fruit producer to eat fresh or pies
PEMBINA purple 10/7 ft. well-known variety with large fruit to eat
REGENT purple 7/5 ft sweet fruit is good for eating fresh or pies
SMOKEY purple 10/7 ft. high yielding variety with mild sweet fruit
THEISSEN purple 10/5 ft. large fruit is good for eating fresh or pies
 lilac
photos
TREES and SHrUBS

Golden Acre Is Proud to be able to Supply you with over 25 varieties of Lilacs including
the following sub-categorys: French Hybrid, Hyacinth, Preston, and Treeform.
For best results plant in a full sun area, fertilize regularly, dead-head old blooms, and don’t
prune till just after flowering. This should ensure lots of blooms,and lots of enjoyment.

Aucuba Leaf Congo Dark Knight Dwarf Korean

124

Forrest K. Smith Ludwig Spaeth Madame Lemoine Michael Buchner

Miss Kim Montainge Persian Pink French Hybrid

President Grevy President Lincoln Sarah Sands Victor Lemoine

lilacs all lilacs listed subject to seasonal

TREES and SHRUBS

and supplier availability

Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage Flower Features/Uses

Color Color

LILAC - BEAUTY OF MOSCOW 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Pink Very heavy bloomer; double pink flowers
Syringa sp. 3m. 2 m. part shade Good screening plant or feature
LILAC-COMMON 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Purple Old fashioned favorite with fragrant flowers.
Syringa vulgaris 3 m. 2 m. part shade Has suckering habit but good windbreaks.
LILAC - CONGO 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Reddish Single, dark red flowers
Syringa sp. 3 m. 2 m. part shade
LILAC-DWARF KOREAN 3 ft. 3 ft. sun or 3 Green Lavender Miniature leaves and flowers good for small
Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’ 1 m. 1 m. part shade yards.
LILAC - MISS ELLEN WILLMOTT 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green White Double white flowers
Syringa sp. 3 m. 2 m. part shade
LILAC-FRENCH-CHARM 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Deep Grafted roots to control suckering.
Syringa vulgaris ‘Charm’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Pink Charming single pink fragrant flowers.
LILAC-FRENCH-CHARLES JOLY 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Reddish Grafted roots to control suckering.
Syringa vulgaris ‘Charles Joly’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Purple Reddish purple, double fragrant flowers.
LILAC-FRENCH-KATHY HAVEMEYER 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Bluish- Grafted roots to control suckering.
Syringa vulgaris ‘Katherine Havemeyer’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Pink Pink double fragrant flowers.
LILAC-FRENCH-LUDWIG SPAETH 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Reddish Grafted roots to control suckering.
Syringa vulgaris ‘Ludwig Spaeth’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Purple Purple single fragrant flowers.
LILAC-FRENCH-MADAME LEMOINE 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green White Grafted roots to control suckering.
Syringa vulgaris ‘Madame Lemoine’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade White double fragrant flowers.
LILAC - FRENCH - MONTAIGNE 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green lavender Double, pale, fragrant flowers
Syringa sp. 3 m. 2 m. part shade Good bloomer
LILAC-FRENCH-PRESIDENT GREVY 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Blue Grafted roots to control suckering.
Syringa vulgaris ‘President Grevy’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Blue double fragrant flowers.
LILAC - FRENCH - PRESIDENT LINCOLN 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Blue Single blue flowers with a lavender tint
Syringa sp. 3 m. 2 m. part shade Heavy bloomer but clusters are small
LILAC-FRENCH-SENSATION 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Purple Grafted roots to control suckering.
Syringa vulgaris ‘Sensation’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade & White Sensational purple flowers with white edges.
LILAC-HYACINTH-ASESSIPPI 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Lavender Earlier and more fragrant blooms than French lilac
125
Syringa hyacinthiflora ‘Asessipi’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Lavender single flower.
LILAC-HYACINTH-MOUNT BAKER 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green White Earlier and more fragrant blooms than French lilac
Syringa hyacinthiflora ‘Mount Baker’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade White single flowers.
LILAC-HYACINTH-POCAHONTAS 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Deep Earlier and more fragrant blooms than French lilac.
Syringa hyacinthiflora ‘Pocahontas’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Purple Deep purple, single flowers.
LILAC-MISS KIM 5 ft. 3 ft. sun or 3 Green Lavender Larger leaves and later flowering than
Syringa patula ‘Miss Kim’ 1.5 m. 1 m. part shade Korean. Purplish fall foliage.
LILAC - PRESTON - CORAL 7 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Pink Blooms later than most lilacs
Syringa prestonia ‘Coral’ 2 m. 2 m. part shade Coral pink flowers
LILAC-PRESTON-MISS CANADA 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Pink Vigorous non-suckering shrub.
Syringa prestoniae ‘Miss Canada’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Pink single flowers later than French Lilac.
LILAC-PRESTON-RED WINE 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Pink Vigorous non-suckering shrub.
Syringa prestoniae ‘Red Wine’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Pink single flowers later than French Lilac
LILAC-PRESTON-ROYALTY 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Purple Vigorous non-suckering shrub.
Syringa prestoniae ‘Royalty’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Purple single flowers
LILAC - TINKERBELLE 5-6 ft. 5-6 ft. sun or 3 Green Reddish Wine-red flower buds open in late spring
Syringa sp. 1.5 m. 1.5 m. part shade Similar to dwarf Korean lilac
LILAC-VILLOSA or LATE 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Lavender Hardy, drought tolerant hedge or wind-
Syringa villosa 3 m. 2 m. part shade break. Purple single flowers later than French Lilac.
TREES and SHrUBS
evergreen
favorites
Cedars (Arborvitae)
This group of globe-shaped and pyramidal evergreen
shrubs has smooth flat foliage. The color of cedar
foliage is a rich, soft, light green; some varieties have
golden yellow tipped foliage. Globe-shaped cedars
like Brandon or Globe can be used in the landscape
as foundation plants, in groupings to form a mass,
or in combination with other shrubs, trees, perenni-
als, or annuals. Tall, upright, pyramidal cedars like
DeGroot’s Spire or Emerald can be used as large
foundation, specimen, or accent plants. All cedars
perform best in locations that are sheltered from the
126 wind and bright winter sun. All cedars require consist-
ently moist soil conditions to survive.
Junipers
This large group of evergreen shrubs grows in a
low-spreading or upright pyramidal fashion. Juniper
foliage may be scale-like and soft or needle-like
and prickly. Junipers are available in various colors
– shades of yellow, gray, blue, and/or green. Spread-
ing junipers like Blue Star, Calgary Carpet, or Buf-
falo can be very low growing, mounding, arching, or
even vase-shaped (Mint Julep). Spreading junipers
can be used in the landscape as foundation plants
in groupings to form a mass or in combination with
other shrubs, trees, perennials, and/or annuals. Up-
right junipers like Cologreen, Scopulorum, or Wichita
Blue grow in a tall, pyramidal form and can be used as
large foundation, specimen, or accent plants. Several
varieties of junipers are available in grafted, staked,
and/or sculptured forms. Most grafted junipers grow
downward to create a weeping, pyramidal form.
Staked junipers are low growing forms in which one
branch has been staked to grow upward in a upright
form; they require constant staking. Sculptured forms
are most often pompon (balls of foliage on the end of
many stems) and are used as specimen plants.
Larch
This group of very hardy, deciduous coniferous trees
form soft green needles in the spring and summer.
In the fall these needles turn golden yellow before
they fall off. These trees prefer moist soil conditions.
The most commonly available variety is the Siberian
Larch (Larix sibirica).
Pines
This large group of evergreen coniferous shrubs and
trees has long needles in bundles of two or five spi-
rally arranged along the scaly branches. Every few
years in the fall pines lose the needles close to their
trunks and from their lower branches. To keep pine
shrubs and trees compact prune the new growth or
candles back by half each year during the month of
June. Good varieties for Alberta are Scotch, Mugho,
and Bristlecone.
Spruce
This large group of evergreen coniferous shrubs and
trees has short square needles that are borne singly
on scaly branches. Spruce usually have a pyramidal
shape but dwarf rounded forms are also available.
The foliage color varies from dark blue to green. Many
spruce varieties provide a good contrast in the land-
scape and are especially attractive during the winter
months. To keep spruce shrubs and trees compact
prune the new growth or candles back by half each
year during June or when growth is fresh.
evergreen
photos

TREES and SHRUBS

Columnar Spruce

Daub’s Frosted Juniper

127
Mugho Pine Globe Blue Spruce Calgary Carpet Juniper

Blue Spruce Emerald Green Cedar Moonglow Juniper

 evergreens all shrubs listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability
TREES and SHrUBS
Sun ™
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage Flower Features Part Shade »
Color Color
Shade ˜
CEDAR/ARBORVITAE Thuja occidentalis
BRANDON 13’/4m 5’/1.5m  3-4 Green Columnar conifer used as a vertical accent; from Brandon,MB.
DANICA 3’/1m 3’/1m  4 Green Slow-growing, compact; prefers moist areas; keep out of wind.
DEGROOT’S SPIRE 7’/2m 2’/0.5m  4 Green Narrow, upright, plant. Suitable as a specimen for a small spot.
EMERALD 13’/4m 5’/1.5m  4 Emerald Popular emerald green foliage; Pyramidal plant used as a specimen.
GLOBE 7’/2m 7’/2m  3-4 Dk Green Large, globe-shaped evergreen. Rotund, rounded form.
HOLMSTRUP 7’/2m 3’/1m  4 Green Upright, compact, conical conifer. Slow-growing shorter variety
LITTLE GEM 3’/1m 4’/1.3m  4 Green Crumpled foliage holds color in winter; very compact
LITTLE GIANT 3’/1m 3’/1m  4 Green Popular globe-shaped evergreen.
TECHNY 13’/4m 5’/1.5m  3 Dark Hardiest cedar for the chinook area. Narrow pyramidal shape.
WAREANA or SIBERIAN 10’/3m 7’/2m  3-4 Green Broader upright cedar. Robust rugged plant.
FIR
DOUGLAS - Pseudotsuga meniesii 40’/14m 18’/6m  3-4 Green Does best in areas with abundant air moisture
DWARF BALSAM Abies balsamea ‘Nana’ 1’/0.3m 3’/1m  3 Green Needs protection from summer sun; provide ample water
JUNIPER - SPREADING - Juniperus var.
ALPINE CARPET 8”/20cm 3’/1m  4 Green Good groundcover with dense, soft-textured foliage
ANDORRA - YOUNGSTOWN 2’/0.6m 4’/1.3m  4 Blue-Green Gray-green foliage turns a lovely purple in winter
ARCADIA 24”/0.5m 3’/1m  2 Med. Green All-purpose; soft foliage.
BAR HARBOR 1’/0.3m 7’/2m  3 Blue-Green Foliage turns purple in winter; center can open with age
BLUE CHIP 1’/0.3m 7’/2m  3 Blue Bright blue foliage is retained in winter; popular ground cover.
BLUE DANUBE 3’/1m 7’/2m  3 Blue-Green Aquamarine bluish-green foliage; spreading selection of Savin.
BLUE PRINCE 1’/0.3m 3’/1m  3 Blue-Green Provide snowcover in winter for protection; Excellent blue color.
BLUE STAR 1.5’/0.5m 5’/1.5m  4 Blue Bright blue, star-shaped needles used for color contrast.
BOYKO STARDUST 1.5’/0.5m 5’/1.5m  4 Bllue-Gold Variegated blue star from Oregon; may burn in full sun.
BROADMOOR 1’/0.3m 7’/2m  3 Green Bright green foliage. Dense, low, wide, spreading juniper
BUFFALO 1’/0.3m 7’/2m  3 Green Bright green feathery foliage on this spreader.
CALGARY CARPET 1’/0.3m 5’/1.5m  3 Green Bright foliage and dense branches. Excellent spreading juniper.
DAUB’S FROSTED 1.5’/0.5m 4’/1.3m  4 Gold-blue Bluish foliage tipped with gold in good light; needs shelter
EFFUSA 1’/30cm 6’/2m  3 Green New foliage soft-brown matures green; circular spreader
128 GOLDCOAST/OLD GOLD 3 ‘/1m 5’/1.5m  4 Gold tip Golden foliage on arching branches. Good for color contrast.
GOLD STAR 4’/1.3m 6’/2m  4 Lt. Green Light green foliage on gold branches; sun needed for color
HOLGER 1.5’/0.5m 5’/1.5m  4 Gold/Blue Compact spreader ; gold tipped blue foliage provides good
contrast.
HUGHES 1’/0.3m 6-8’/2m  3 silver-blue Graceful, arhcing branches; retains foliage colour through the
winter
ICEE BLUE 1’/0.3m 5’1/5m  3 Blue Impressive icy blue foliage from Illinois.
LIMEGLOW 1.5’/0.3m 4’/1.3m  4 lime-green New variety from Iseli Nursery; bright foliage holds colour well
MINT JULEP/SEA GREEN 3’/1m 7’/2m  4 Green Dark green foliage; fountain-like form. Best in semi-shaded location.
MOOR-DENSE 1’/0.3m 5’/1.5m  3 Green Selection of Broadmoor juniper with denser and darker green
needles.
MOTHERLODE 0.5’/0.1m 4’/1.3m  4 Gold Golden yellow sport of Wiltonii. New variety from Iseli Nursery
NEW BLUE TAM 2’/0.6m 5’/1.5m  3 Blue Symmetrical mound shaped spreader. Contrasting blue foliage color.
PRINCE OF WALES 1’/0.3m 7’/2m  3 Green Lowest growing green spreading juniper from Waterton,Alberta.
SAVIN 3’/1m 7’/2m  3 Green Original species with scale-like, green foliage. Vase-shaped form
SCANDIA 1’/0.3m 5’/1.5m  3 Green Sister to Arcadia juniper but smaller and lower growing.
TABLE TOP BLUE 5’/1.5m 7’/2m  3 Blue Unique upright, flat topped variety. Use as a specimen plant.
TAMARISCIFOLIA 2’/0.6m 7’/2m  3 Green Symmetrical mound-shaped spreader.
WILTONI - BLUE RUG 6”/0.15m 7’/2m  3 Blue Lowest growing spreading juniper. Useful as a ground cover.
YUKON BELLE 10”/25cm 4’/1.3m  2 Green Broad spreading and very hardy; good accent
JUNIPER - UPRIGHT - Juniperus var.
COLOGREEN 10’/3m 5’/1.5m  3 Green Bright foliage on upright juniper.Compact branches and conical form.
GHOST PLANT - ‘Candelabrum’ 9’/3m 6’/2m  3 Blue-Green Rare weeping variety of Rocky Mountain juniper
IDYLLWILD 6’/2m 3’/1m  4 Green Upright dark-green foliage; good as a single specimen or for a hedge
MEDORA 10’/3m 3’/1m  3 Blue-Green Upright columnar form. Bluish-green foliage.
MOONGLOW 10’/3m 5’/1.5m  3 Blue Popular upright blue Juniper; similar to Wichita Blue
ROCKY MOUNTAIN 9’/3m 6’/2m  3 Blue-green Native upright variety; good drought tolerance; Dense growth habit.
TOLLESON’S WEEPING 10’/3m 5’/1.5m  4 Blue-Green Small tree with weeping, graceful branches. Unique specimen plant
WICHITA BLUE 10’/3m 5’/1.5m  3 Blue Similar to moonglow but finer foliage. Most popular upright
juniper.
evergreens all shrubs listed subject to seasonal
and supplier availability

TREES and SHRUBS

Sun ™
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage Features Part Shade »
Color Shade ˜
LARCH-SIBERIAN - Larix sibirica 25’/8m 12’/3.5m  2 Green Unique deciduous conifer sheds needles in winter. Gold fall foliage.
PINE - Pinus
AUSTRIAN - P. nigra 40’/12m 20’/6m  4 Green Dark green stiff needles; compact growth habit
BRISTLECONE - P. aristata 13’/4m 7’/2m  2 Green-White Slow growing, unique rugged plant with 5 needles in cluster
LIMBER - P. flexilis 20’/6m 10’/3m  3 Green-Blue Native to foothills; slow grower; dense flexible branching
LODGEPOLE - P. contorta latifolia 35’/10m 10’/3m  4 Green Tall, slender tree with narrow loose crown; native forest tree.
PONDEROSA - Pinus ponderosa 30’/10m 10’/3m  3 Green Large pyramidal pine; beautiful long needles and cones
SWISS STONE - Pinus cembra 20’/6m 10’/3m  3 Green Columnar conical conifer. Picturesque pine tree.
PINE - MUGO - Pinus mugo var.
DWARF - P. mugo pumilio 6’/2m 6’/2m  3 Green More compact than freefrom; prune to keep shape
MOPS 3’/1m 3’/1m  3 Green Compact form of mugo; very slow-growing
MUGO - FREEFORM - P. mugo mughus 15’/5m 15’’/5m  1 Green Popular shrubby pine; Hardiest coniferous evergreen in Calgary.
SLOWMOUND 3’/1m 3’/1m  2 Green Forms dense mound; slow-growing; good for rock gardens
SWISS MOUNTAIN - P. uncinata 20’/6m 10’/3m  3 Green Coniferous tree similar to Mugho Pine. Pollution tolerant.
TANNENBAUM 10’/3m 6’/2m  3 Green Compact pyramidal pine; new interesting variety
VALLEY CUSHION 3’/1m 3’/1m  3 Green Uniform compact mounding growth; a Tru-Dwarf variety
WHITE BUD 3’/1m 3’/1m  3 Green/White White resin in buds in late winter; a Tru-Dwarf variety
PINE - SCOTS - Pinus sylvestris var.
ALBYN PROSTRATA 2’/60cm 8’/2.6m  3 Green Spreading Scots pine; holds color in winter.
SCOTS 40’/13m 30’/10m  3 Blue-Green Unique orange-brown bark on upper trunk and branches
COLUMNAR - ‘Fastigiata’ 15’/3m 7’/1m  3 Blue-Green Narrow upright form; keep snow off during winter
HILLSIDE CREEPER 1’/30cm 8’/2.6m  3 Green Low-growing ground-huggging ScotS Pine
RUSSIAN CYPRESS - Microbiota decussata 1’/0.3m 5’/1.5m  3 Green Rare evergreen with bright green foliage used as
ground cover.
SPRUCE - COLORADO - Picea pungens var.
BAKERI 13’/4m 10’/3m  2 Deep Blue Long, dark blue needles. Conical conifer.
BLUE - ‘Glauca’ 35’/10m 13’/4m  2 Blue Selected for blue needle color. Used as a screen, shade, street tree.
BLUE CREEPING - P. pungens procumbens 3’/1m vaires  3 Blue New creeping variety of Colorado spruce
BOYKO MYSTIQUE varies varies  3 Blue Irregular growing sport of Colorado Blue; good for specimen.
COLUMNAR BLUE - ‘Fastigiata’ 15’/3m 7’/1m  3 Blue Popular hardy, columnar narrow, spruce instead of upright juniper
FAT ALBERT 25’/8m 12’/3.5m  3 Blue Beautiful bright blue spruce. Broader based than Colorado Spruce. 129
GLOBE BLUE/GREEN - ‘Globosa’ 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m  2 Blue-Green Compact, dwarf, slow growing, globe-shaped. Avail. as standard
GREEN 35’/10m 13’/4m  2 Green Long, rigid needles on pyramidal shape.Use for screening or shelter.
GREEN SPIRE 25’/8m 12’/3.5m  3 Green Green form of Fat Albert; dense pyramidal form
HOOPSII 30’/10m 10’/3m  2 Blue Brightest bluest spruce. Narrow pyramidal shape.
JIMMY JAMES 13’/4m 10’/3m  3 Blue New very blue, almost silver, variety
MESA VERDE 3’/1m 6’/2m  3 Green Very hardy nest form of spruce; better than Nest Spruce in Alberta
MONTGOMERY 4’/1.3m 6’/2m  3 Blue Compact globe blue spruce that forms leader as matures
MRS. CESSARINI 3’/1m 3’/1m  3 Green Bright green mounding spruce; light green bud break
WEEPING - ‘Pendula’ varies varies  3 Blue Weeping tree needs staking when young; can be used as groundcover
SPRUCE- SPRUCE - NORWAY - Picea abies var.
ACROCONA 6’/2m 6’/2m  3 Green Compact, slow-growing, irregular; has red cones on branch tips
BIRD’S NEST - ‘Nidiformis’ 3’/1m 5’/1.5m  4 Dk-Green Flat-topped, low growing, coniferous shrub. Use in place of juniper.
COLUMNAR - ‘Cupressina’ 15’/5m 3’/1m  4 Green Very narrow Norway Spruce; better with snow loads than others
DWARF NORWAY - ‘Pumila’ 3’/1m 3’/1m  4 Green Compact nest form; early bud break may not be good in Calgary
LITTLE GEM 3’1/m 3’/1m  4 Green Very dense nest spruce with small needles; good for rock gardens
OHLENDORFII 8’/2.5m 5’/1.5m  3 Green Grows slowly from a rounded shrub to a small conical tree
WEEPING NORWAY - ‘Pendula’ 7’/2m variable  4 Green Weeping spruce requires staking to grow upright.
SPRUCE - WHITE - Picea glauca
BLACK HILLS 20’/6m 10’/3m  3 Blue-Green Superior to white spruce. Symmetrical, compact growth habit.
WHITE 20’/6m 10’/3m  2 Blue-Green Pyramidal native spruce; highly adaptable
WEEPING WHITE - ‘Pendula’ 10’/3m 3’/1m  4 Green Very narrow weeping form; stiff, downward hanging branches
 planting guide
TREES and SHrUBS
Spring planting is preferable for most roses, vines, shrubs,
trees and evergreens. However, the advent of the contain-
erized nursery stock has extended the planting season to
match the growing season. With proper care these plants
can be planted any time during the growing season, from
spring thaw to fall freeze-up. By following a number of
simple steps you will be able to successfully plant con-
tainerized nursery stock. Remember that containers of all
types and wraps other than burlap should be removed from
the root ball before or during planting.
Pre-planting Instructions: Take care to prevent wind
burn to plants during transport by covering them well. Keep
plants cool, in a shady area, and well watered until they are
planted. Cover the root ball of balled and burlapped trees
to prevent root drying.
Soil Preparation: All trees, shrubs, and roses should
be planted in well-drained topsoil. If there is less than
20 cm. of topsoil in the planting area additional
topsoil should be added. As you dig a hole
separate the topsoil from the heavy subsoil.
Discard the subsoil and replace it with rich
topsoil. Do not pull heavy subsoil in around
a plant as backfill. Add one part peat moss
or prepared soil mix to three parts soil that
you have dug from the planting hole. If,
after digging a hole, you find the subsoil to
be excessively heavy, having a high clay
content; dig the hole down an additional
15-30 cm. (6-12 in.). Fill this space with
clean sand or gravel to enhance the subsoil
drainage conditions.
130
Bare Root Stock: The most commonly
available bare root shrub is Cotoneaster
(Cotoneaster lucida) which is use as a
hedging material. Caragana and Lilac
are also available. Until planted keep
the root system of bare root plants
moist. Protect bare root plants from drying out
in the sun and wind by storing them in a shaded
location with the roots wrapped in plastic or
submerged in a bucket of water. Dig holes, or a
trench, large enough to accommodate the plant's entire root
system without crowding. Set the plants in the holes so that
the ground level is even with or slightly higher than the top
of the root system. Pull the topsoil in around the plant’s root
system to fill the hole. Tamp the topsoil in firmly around the
base of the plant with the sole of your shoe. This eliminates
air pockets and ensures good contact between the topsoil
and the root system. Create a tree well or indentation, which
will hold water, around the base of the plant. Water the plant
thoroughly by filling this indentation with a solution of water
and a plant starter such as Schultz 10-60-10. Water the plant
whenever the soil surface dries out, usually bi-weekly, during
the first growing season to ensure the plant’s survival.
Balled and Burlapped Stock: Dig a hole 15 cm.
deeper and 30 cm. wider in diameter than the root ball.
Place the plant in the hole and check to ensure that ground
level is even with the top of the root ball. Cut and loosen
the burlap wrap on the root ball, removing the burlap from
the top of the root ball, and leave it around the sides, to
hold the soil around the roots. As you pull the topsoil in
around the root ball to fill in the hole, tamp the topsoil
down firmly with your shoe. This eliminates air pockets and
ensures good contact between the topsoil and the root sys-
tem. Create a tree well, which will hold water, around the
base of the plant. Water the plant thoroughly by filling the
depression with a solution of water and a plant starter such
as Schultz 10-60-10. Water the plant deeply whenever the
soil surface dries out, generally biweekly, during the first
growing season to ensure the plant's survival.
Containerized Stock: Dig a hole 15 cm. deeper and 30
cm. wider in diameter than the container in which the plant
is growing. With the container on, set the plant in the hole
to ensure that the ground level is even with the top of the
root ball. Remove the plant from the hole and carefully, so
as not to disturb the soil around the root system, remove the
root ball from the container. Place the root ball back into the
hole. As you pull topsoil in around the plant to fill the hole,
tamp the topsoil down firmly with the sole of your shoe.
This eliminates air pockets and ensures good contact
between the topsoil and the root system. Create a
tree well or indentation, which will hold water, around
the base of the plant. Water the plant thoroughly by
filling this indentation with a solution of water and
a root starter such as Schultz 10-60-10. Water the
plant deeply whenever the soil surface dries out,
generally biweekly, during the first growing season
to ensure the plant’s survival.
Staking a Tree: Due to the windy condi-
tions in the Calgary area all but the smallest
of trees require staking. Staking keeps trees
straight while they are rooting and prevents
uprooting during wind storms. There are two
methods of staking trees: using guy wires,
or metal posts or wooden stakes. When
staked, a tree should be able to move
a few inches, as this will encourage
strong root and trunk development.
Guy Wires: Attach 3 guy wires to the tree,
2/3 the way up the tree. Protect the tree’s bark
by wrapping the portion of the wire contacting
the tree trunk with a section of garden hose. Run one wire
toward the northwest, directly into the prevailing winds,
and attach it to a small stake, 40 cm. long, driven into the
ground about two meters away from the base of the tree.
Run the other two wires out from the tree ensuring even
spacing between the three guy wires. Attach these wires to
similar small stakes. Make sure that each of the 3 wires are
evenly tightened.
Metal or Wooden Stakes: Select a metal or wooden
stake that is about one meter taller than the tree you are
staking. Locate the stake on the NW side of the tree as
this is the origin of most prevailing winds in Calgary. Drive
the stake into the ground next to the tree making sure that
the stake passes on the outside of the root ball. Pound the
stake in deep enough to secure it, about one meter. Attach
the tree to the stake using plastic tree ties or wire. Cover
the wire with a section of garden hose where it contacts the
tree trunk so as not to damage the bark.
pruning guide
General Pruning Tips:
The basic objectives of pruning are to maintain the plant's
natural shape, to maintain its health and vigor, and to keep
it a manageable size. There are a number of general rules
that should be followed no matter what type of pruning
you are doing. Pruning cuts should be made with a sharp
and clean pruning tool such as pruning shears. Disease
organisms can be spread from branch to branch or from
tree to tree if your pruning tools are not kept clean. Clean
your pruning tools by dipping them in bleach (1 part bleach
& 10 parts water) or alcohol between cuts, on disease
infected plants or between plants, on disease-free plants.
So as not to leave any stubs that will inevitably die, pruning
cuts should be made cleanly and on the outside of the
collar (wrinkled area between trunk and branch). Pruning
cuts on small stems are always made just above a leaf
or branch joint or node. Large pruning wounds can be
painted with pruning paint to prevent the entry of disease
organisms. Damaged, dead or diseased wood should
be removed as soon as it is noticed. Branches which are
crossing should be removed before they enlarge and start
rubbing together. Try to maintain the natural shape of the
tree or shrub. Carefully select which branches should be
removed or headed back so as not to spoil the shape of
the plant.
Hedges:
Newly planted hedges such as cotoneaster, caragana, Lilac,
and cranberry; should be pruned back to encourage lateral
branching which creates a fuller hedge more rapidly. As your
hedge develops trim it so that the base is wider than the
top. This allows sufficient sunlight to reach all leaf surfaces,
preventing the base of the hedge from becoming open and
sparse. Hedge shearing can be carried out at any time during
the growing season. Older hedges in need of rejuvenation
are more easily thinned out during the dormant season, in
the early spring before new growth appears or in the fall after
the leaves have fallen.
Shrubs That Flower on Old Wood:
Shrubs that flower on old wood in the spring such as
forsythia, double flowering plum, nanking cherry, or lilac,
for example, should be pruned as soon as flowering is
finished. Pruning at any other time of the year will remove
the dormant flower buds. Flower buds for most shrubs
are formed on previous year's growth. White spireas such
as bridal wreath, garland, and three-lobed also flower on old
wood. Any other shrub that flowers in the summer on old wood
should be pruned immediately after flowering. To prune older
shrubs, usually requiring thinning, occasionally remove entire
large branches by cutting them out at base.
Shrubs That Flower on New Wood:
Shrubs that bloom on new wood, such as elders,
hydrangea, dwarf pink spireas (S. bumalda and japonica
cultivars), Group C clematis, and most roses including hybrid
TREES and SHRUBS
teas and parkland series, may be pruned in the spring to
remove old wood. Flower buds are formed on current year's
growth. All other shrubs not listed above bloom on old wood.
Suckers which emerge from below ground are removed during
the summer, as they originate from the root stock.
Shade Trees:
Shade trees should be trained when they are still young.
By shaping shade trees early, unwanted lower branches,
crossing or rubbing branches, and branches growing in the
wrong location or direction are eliminated. Most shade or
ornamental trees prefer to be pruned during the dormant
season, in early spring. Birch and maple (which are called
"bleeders"), are exceptions, however. These species should
be pruned in mid-summer, usually in July or August. Pruning
cuts on birch and maple do not heal quickly because they
bleed sap if pruned before their leaves are fully expanded.
Most shade trees, if properly located and pruned when
young, may require less pruning when mature. If you do have
large trees requiring pruning, we recommend you consult a
professional pruning service.
Fruit Trees:
Fruit trees such as apple, plum, or pear, are pruned during
the dormant season in early spring to encourage vigorous
growth and to create a better producing tree. Prune fruit
trees so that all parts of the tree receive adequate sunlight.
Unwanted lower branches, crossing or rubbing branches, and
branches growing in the wrong direction or location should be 131
removed when the tree is young. Any suckers growing from
the roots or water sprouts growing from the trunk should also
be removed. To prevent fruit from overloading and breaking
permanent branches the smaller, outside branches should
be also be thinned.
Evergreens:
The new growth on pines, called "candles", should be
cut in half in June, after the new growth has hardened,
to encourage a compact shape. Cedars and junipers
may be shaped at any time. The long soft, new growth
on spruce may be shortened to shape it, or minimize
growth, in June. If the leader of a spruce is damaged or
removed, a new one may be formed by tying a sturdy
stick to the trunk, extending it above the top of the tree,
and bending and tying one top branch up to the stick.
You can avoid having to keep evergreens smaller than
their natural size by choosing varieties that have an
appropriate mature size.
 pruning equipment & uses
TREES and SHrUBS

Pruning Equipment: The use of proper pruning the hedge should be kept wider than the top of the
equipment, to complete the job at hand is very important. hedge, as this enables sunlight to reach all the
It will not only save you time, but also money. One leaves, and to prevent die-back and thinning from
problem that we see at the garden centre is people lack of light and air circulation.
bringing in broken pruning equipment, wanting to know
why this happened. It happens because we try to save
time by doing the job with one tool. Small hand pruners
should only be used to cut branches the thickness of Safety Equipment: Basic protection for all
your little finger. The next tool would be the lopper. The pruning jobs includes: gloves, sturdy footwear, long
longer the handle the more leverage you will get, but sleeved shirt, pants, a hat, but most important is a
cuts larger than 1 in (2.5 cm) should not be made. This good pair of eye protectors, to keep pruning cuttings,
size of cut can also be made with a long handled pole and debris out of your eyes. If using electric or gas
pruner, but the more the pole is extended the harder it is hedge shears, or chainsaws, ear protection should
to prune. Whenever possible use a ladder with the pole be mandatory. With chainsaws you should also have
pruner, this will enable you to get higher up into the tree protective legwear, such as chainsaw pants, and steel
without extending the handle all the way. When the cut toed work boots. Proper knowledge on using a chainsaw
is larger than one inch in diameter, a saw should be is should be obtained before using this equipment.
used. For very large branches, a chainsaw would be
the tool of choice, but must be used with extreme
caution, and proper safety equipment.
Both the small one handed pruner, and the lopper
come in two different styles. The first is the anvil
pruner, where the blade comes down onto a
chopping block. We however do not recommend
this type of pruner, because it tends to crush
the branch, and tear the cambium layer, which
slows the healing process, and can cause health
132 problems later on, such as rotting as well as insect
and fungus entry. These anvil type pruners are
great when removing a tree completely, because
it allows you to use more pressure without causing
more damage to the pruner. The second type and
most practical, is the hooked or curved blade. It
is frequently called a by-pass pruner, where the
blade passes by the cutting block, similar to a
pair of scissors. This allows a nice clean cut to
occur,which helps the healing process. There are
many styles available so it is important to find one
that is comfortable and practical for the amount
and type of use.

If pruning hedges there are manual, gas, and

electric hedge shears available. For small jobs
manual hedge shears work great and are much
easier to sharpen. For larger jobs, electric or gas
shears will save you time. Gas shears are much
more powerful and versatile, however are not as
easy to service or sharpen. One thing to keep in
mind when pruning a hedge is that the bottom of
 winter protection

TREES and SHRUBS

Trees, Shrubs And Evergreens:
Several types of winter plant damage occur in the Cal-
gary area. The most obvious type, referred to as tip-kill
or die-back, is a result of the local conditions - mainly
warm, dry Chinook winds, bright sun, and low relative
humidity. These conditions accelerate the normally slow
loss of water from plant tissues and result in dry twigs,
damaged buds, desiccated evergreen foliage, and the
death of certain plants.
Warm Chinook winds also cause plant injury
by inducing premature spring. This occurs when plants
break dormancy and begin growing during extended pe-
riods of warm winter weather. Subsequent cold periods
damage developing leaves, crack sap-filled bark; and, on
occasion, damage root systems. Frost damage, caused
by rapid temperature fluctuations, is a condition we should
therefore be aware of and attempt to prevent.
Since evergreens retain their foliage year round, the
needles are constantly losing moisture through a process
known as transpiration. This moisture must be constantly
replaced in order to prevent Chinook damage. Therefore,
evergreen trees and shrubs require additional moisture
and protection to ensure their survival under local condi-
tions.
Sheltered gardens have a better chance of standing up to
the warm, dry winds of Calgary. Shelter may be provided
by houses, walls, fences, or even by other trees. The most
sheltered spots in your yard are located where the snow
drifts the deepest. Snow protects plants by insulating
them from winter temperature extremes. But snow often
doesn’t accumulate in this area, and many new gardens
lack shelter entirely. We have to offer a helping hand when
it comes to winter protection.
Tea Roses:
Since tea roses are grafted onto hardier root stock, the
most important aspect of winter protection is keeping the
plant alive above the graft. The bush should be planted
so that the graft is 4 - 5" below ground level, where the
temperature is much more consistent. Soil is then used
to further protect the plant. In the fall, after light frost,
water the plant well, and cut back to about 8 - 10". Place
a rose cone, a large tree pot with the bottom removed,
or a heavy, waxed cardboard box over top of it; and fill
the box with soil, vermiculite, peat moss, straw, sawdust,
or dry leaves. Cover the top with cloth, not plastic, and
don’t remove the covering until early May. You may have
to cover again temporarily if frost is expected. While this
method is no guarantee that every tea rose will survive,
it is quite successful most of the time, and means that
tea roses can be grown successfully in Calgary. It can
also be used to protect other less hardy shrubs, such as
azalea, blueberry, clematis, rose daphne, rhododendron
and weigela.
Climbing Roses:
Since most climbing shrub roses bloom most heavily on
previous year’s growth, it is important that the bushes
survive well above ground, in order to have maximum
number of flowers. Non-hardy climbing roses are not
recommended for Calgary gardens because they are
not reliable. Some Explorer series roses such as William
Baffin and John Cabot are much hardier and will bloom
reliably. Rambling roses such as John Davis and Henry 133
Kelsey may also be trained as climbers.

You can not control the weather but you can reduce the
damage caused by Chinook winds and bright winter sun.
In the late fall, apply an anti-desiccant such as Wilt-Proof
to sensitive evergreens. Rather than wrapping them with
burlap, create a windbreak or sun screen by placing two
or three stakes into the ground 12-18" from the tree on
the sunny or windy side, and stretching burlap between
the stakes. Water all trees (especially evergreens and
birch), and shrubs thoroughly in the fall, before freeze-up,
to ensure they have sufficient water. During Chinooks,
evergreens planted close to the house foundation, par-
ticularly on the sunny side, may require watering if the
soil is dry. Hose down foliage, too, as some moisture can
be taken into needles. Mulch the soil surface around the
base of less hardy plants to ensure consistent, cold soil
temperature throughout the winter. Pile straw, dry leaves,
or dry plant material around the base.
TREES and SHrUBS tree cankers
A canker is defined as a diseased, sunken lesion on woody
tissue. There are three types of cankers; fungal, bacteria
or frost. Frost cankers, actually physiological disorders, are
cracks on the bark caused by freezing and thawing. Fungal
and bacterial pathogens usually gain
entry through frost cracks, pruning
wounds, wind damage, or sun scald.
Sun scald is another physiological
condition that occurs on the south
west side of tree trunks exposed to
bright winter sunlight, most often
affecting mayday and mountain ash
trees. Fungi are in fact microscopic
plants which do not invade healthy
plant tissue. Once inside the plant the
fungi move into the sap system and
eventually decrease or stop water
from moving upward from the roots to
the branches. If you look closely at the
trunk where the branch is attached,
you may see cracks in the bark with
the bark peeled back from the crack,
elongated oval, sunken or darkened
areas in the bark or places where sap
is oozing from broken areas in the
bark. One common fungus causes
Cytospora canker in Cotoneasters,
particularly inside older hedges where
there is little light or air circulation; a
perfect place for fungi to grow. The
commonly observed orange Nectria canker on cotoneaster
134
is actually a secondary rot organism that does not harm the
plants itself. Some of these cankers are incorrectly diagnosed
as fireblight, in which the leaves die because the bacteria kill
them, and then the cankers come afterwards. While possible
on most trees, fungal Cytospora
cankers are most prevalent on
mountain ash, poplar, spruce, and
willow. Bacterial cankers, also
called slime flux or wetwood, are
most freqently observed on poplar
trees. There is no chemical control
for fungal or bacterial cankers.
The only way to control them is
to prune the branches back well
into healthy wood. In the case of
hedges; remove the inside, affected
branches and then the remaining
branches will grow into the center
because of the available light and
air circulation. This is not a cure as
the fungi or bacteria could spread
within the sap of the plant and
cause more cankers. Eventually, if
it invades the main trunk, the tree
may have to be removed. Be careful
to clean pruning tools with a 10%
bleach solution between each cut,
as fungi or bacteria spread on tools.
It is difficult to diagnose cankers by
describing them on the phone so
bring in a branch to customer service for easier identification.
roseshardy roses
Roses, the “Queen of Flowers,” are available in a va-
riety of sizes, colours and fragrances. All roses require
a sunny location and well-drained, slightly acidic soil.
See the Planting Guide on p. for information on plant-
ing containerized plants. All roses, especially tea roses,
respond to adequate watering and fertilizing by an
increase in flower size, abundance, and color intensity.
When watering, avoid getting the foliage wet while
keeping the soil evenly moist. Fertilize once in spring
with a slow-release rose food or apply a water soluble
rose fertilizer about once a month from May to mid-Au-
gust.Roses are generally divided into two groups: Hardy
Roses and Tender Roses.
Hardy roses include: Explorer, Parkland, Rugosa, etc.
Tender Roses include: Floribunda, Grandiflora, Hy-
brid Tea, Miniature, etc. Roses come in various forms:
groundcover, shrub, hedging and rambling or climbing,
etc. with much variation in color, fragrance, shape and
size of flowers. The majority of roses bloom on new
growth and rebloom or flower continuously throughout
the growing season. Blooms may be small - less than
2"(5cm), medium - 2-4"(5-10cm) or large - more than
4"(10cm).
Hardy Roses include a One Full Year Guarantee!
Hardy Shrub Roses
World-wide,tea roses are the most popular rose. However,
here in Calgary, hardy roses are more popular. Their ease
of cultivation, disease resistance, and winter hardiness
earns them high points in Calgary gardens.
Planting and Care
Hardy roses require a sunny location and well-drained,
slightly acidic soil. See the Planting Guide on p. for
information on planting containerized plants. Hardy roses
respond well to adequate watering and fertilizing. Fertilize
once in spring with a slow-release product like Smartcote
Rose Food. If using a water-soluble fertilizer like Shultz
Rose Food, supply four, evenly spaced applications from
May to no later than mid-August. Ask about Myke Tree
and Shrub growth supplement. It builds root systems to
create healthier rose plants.
Pruning
It is important to prune out any damaged, dead, or diseased
stems. Light pruning can be carried on throughout the
growing season. Prune out dead blooms (deadhead) and
prune back to just above 5-leaflet leaves to encourage
more flowers on re-blooming types of roses.
Winter Protection
Some hardy roses may suffer Chinook or winter damage,
but almost all bloom on new wood and will recover in the
spring. Cover the soil with 3-4 in.(7-10cm) of mulch at
least out to the drip line.This will help protect and maintain
healthier roots in any season.
ROSES
Most of our hardy roses are grown on their own roots.
This makes them much hardier than grafted plants.
Categories of hardy roses include Explorer, Parkland
(Morden), Hybrid Rugosa, and Species types. Different
forms include climbers, groundcovers, shrub and hedging
roses. Besides abundant flowers during the growing
season, many hardy roses can also be enjoyed for their
colorful rose hips in winter.
Explorer Roses
Developed through Agriculture Canada and named after
early Canadian explorers, these are some of the hardiest
roses ever developed and include climbing, groundcover,
shrub and hedging types.
Parkland Roses (Morden Roses)
Developed by Agriculture Canada in Morden, Manitoba,
many are direct descendents of floribunda and hybrid tea
roses crossed with various native roses. They tend to
have beautifully formed flowers that re-bloom and grow
on medium-sized plants.
Hybrid Rugosa Roses
These are vigorous, reliable roses with repeat blooms
all season. Many Explorer Roses owe their hardiness to
breeding with Rugosa Roses. Some Rugosa favorites
are: Hansa Rose, Blanc de Coubert, Theresa Bugnet and
Topaz Jewel. Also see (and smell) our Pavement Roses: 135
low-growing, salt-tolerant roses with very fragrant white,
pink or purple blooms.
Species Roses
A few favorite roses in this category:
Red Leaf rose is a popular rose with year-round interest
Persian Yellow rose is a tall, vigorous plant that produces
an abundance of deep yellow flowers in June.
Austrian Copper rose, related to Persian Yellow rose,
grown since the 1500's; vivid orange-red blooms with
yellow centers.
ROSES
roses
your question
Q. Can I grow roses in the shade?
A. In general, roses need at least six hours of direct sun
a day to be happy. Roses grown in the shade bloom less,
are leggy and prone to insects and diseases.
Q. What do you suggest for climbing roses?
A. We recommend hardy roses which can be trained to
climb such as Capt. Samuel Holland, Henry Kelsey, John
Cabot, John Davis, William Baffin and others.
Q. There are black spots on my rose leaves. What is
wrong with this plant?
A. This is a fungus simply called 'Black Spot'. Infected
leaves form black spots that are about 1/16 -1/2 in.
diameter. The infected leaves can turn yellow and in
severe cases may eventually fall off if not treated. Wet
leaves and warm temperatures encourage this fungus.
To fight and/or prevent Black Spot, water the soil not the
136 leaves. Prevent splashing on the foliage by using a slow
trickle or a soaker hose. Water early in the morning to
allow leaves to dry during the day. Spray the upper and
lower leaf surfaces with a fungicide such as Funginex
may help to slow down the spread of Black Spot. Water
in the morning and ground level can help solve this
problem too.
Q. My rose has a white powdery buildup on the leaves.
What is it and what can I do about it?
A. This is a fungus called powdery mildew. It coats the
leaves and can destroy them. One way to reduce this
problem is to improve air flow around the plant. Prune
out crossing canes and do not plant too close to a wall or
fence. Applying a fungicide like Funginex on both infected
and uninfected leaves may also help prevent the spread
of powdery mildew.
Q. There are some semi-circular holes in the leaves of
my roses. I can't find any insects causing the damage.
what could it be?
A. This sounds like leaf-cutter bees. The bees, which are
commonly used for pollinating alfalfa crops, use the small
pieces of leaf to line their larval chambers. They cause
no real damage to the rose and should not be treated.
Q. My rose won't flower or it flowers poorly. What
could be the problem? Do I need to fertilize more?
A. Your rose may need more light: at least 6 hours of
direct sun per day, preferably morning sun. It may need
more regular watering, especially suring our dry summers.
Roses like slightly acid conditions and will benefit when
peat moss, compost and garden sulphur is mixed into the
soil. Another cause of poor flowering could be too much
nitrogen which may cause your plant to produce more
leaves and less flowers. To encourage flowering, use a
balanced rose fertilizer. (See next question.)
Q. How do I fertilize my roses?
A. Roses are happy in a sunny, well-drained, slightly
acidic location. In addition, roses respond well to
regular watering and feeding. Many gardeners feed
their roses by regularly mixing in compost and bone
meal around the roots. Others have had success with
Alaska MorBloom, a soluble fish fertilizer. Another well
balanced soluble fertilizer is Schultz Rose Food (10-
12-12) which can be applied about once a month from
May until mid-August. Alternatively apply a slow-release
formulation like Smartcote Rose Food (14-12-12) once
in spring. Provide adequate watering with every feeding
and throughout the growing season. Ask about Myke Tree
and Shrub growth supplement. It builds root systems to create
healthier rose plants.
Q. When and how do I prune my roses?
A. Damaged, dead, or diseased stems should be
removed as soon as you notice them. To encourage more
flowers on all types of re-blooming roses, prune out dead
blooms (deadhead) and prune back to just above 5-leaflet
leaves. In general, hardy roses require only light pruning
during the growing season. Tender roses need additional
care. Remember to trim out one third of the grey stems
in the fall and prune back remaining stems to about 8-
10" (20-25cm) and cover these with a winter mulch. The
following spring trim out any dead stem tips.
Q. How do I protect tender roses (including tea roses)
for winter ?
A. Please refer to Winter Protection for Tender Roses
on page 133.
roseshardy roses

ROSES
c - May be trained as climber
r - Attractive rosehips in winter

Variety Color Bloom Petal Height Frag- Features

Size Count (approx.) rance
Adelaide Hoodless r bright medium semi- 4 ft. light Clusters of bright red continual flowers.
Parkland red double 1.2 m Old-fashioned favorite rose.
Alexander McKenzie reddish- medium double 6 ft. medium Tall rose with continual fragrant blooms.
Explorer pink 1.8 m Flowers and foliage similar to Tea Roses.
Austrian Copper c red- medium single 6 ft. medium Unique flower show in June. Grown since 1500's.
Rosa foetida bicolor orange 1.8 m Red-orange petals with copper centers & reverse.
Blanc de Coubert r white medium double 5 ft. strong Continual white fragrant flowers all season.
Hybrid Rugosa 1.5 m Red rosehips in fall & winter.
Cpt. Samuel Holland c reddish- medium double 6 ft. light Trailing growth habit; continual blooming
Explorer pink 1.8 m Resistant to powdery mildew & black spot.
Carefree Beauty r pink small semi- 3 ft. light Spreading growth habit; continual blooming
Shrub double 1 m Blooms from spring until fall.
Champlain r dark medium double 3 ft. medium Most red of the Explorer Roses. Disease resistant.
Explorer red 1 m Continual blooming from summer to frost.
Charles Albanel r medium medium semi- 1.5 ft. strong Hardier groundcover rose than Flower Carpet.
Explorer pink double 0.5 m Repeat blooming from summer to frost.
Chuckles deep medium single 2 ft. light Continual blooms. Deep pink with yellow center.
Shrub pink 0.6 m Glossy green foliage on a compact plant.
Cuthbert Grant purplish- large semi- 3 ft. light Largest flower of any Parkland or Explorer rose.
Parkland red double 1 m Old-fashioned favorite rose; repeat blooms.
Dart's Dash r mauve- medium semi- 3 ft. strong Fragrant blooms repeat all season.
Hybrid Rugosa red double 1 m Disease resistant plant; colorful rosehips in winter.
David Thompson deep medium double 3 ft. strong Similar to Hansa Rose but more compact.
Explorer pink 1 m Continual fragrant blooms. No rose hips.
De Montarville medium medium double 3 ft. medium Tight red buds open to a medium pink.
137
Explorer pink 1 m light Continual blooming. Disease resistant.
F. J. Grootendorst medium small double 5 ft. light Carnation-like red flowers.
Hybrid Rugosa red 1.5 m Wrinkled foliage; continual blooming.
Frontenac deep medium double 3 ft. light Continually flowering in clusters of up to eight.
Explorer pink 1 m Resistant to powdery mildew & black spot.
George Vancouver r soft medium double 3 ft. medium Abundance of soft red flowers in clusters.
Explorer red 1 m Repeat blooms all season. Disease resistant.
Golden Wings r golden large single 4 ft. light Golden yellow, lightly scented flowers.
Shrub yellow 1.2m Repeat blooming through growing season.
Hansa - r reddish- medium double 1.5 m strong Hardy popular fragrant rose; repeat blooms.
Hybrid Rugosa purple 5 ft. Unique reddish-violet flowers.
Harrison Yellow sulphur medium double 5 ft light One-time mass of yellow blooms.
Hybrid foetida yellow 1.5 m Substitute for Persian Yellow rose.
Henry Hudson r pinkish- medium double 2 ft. medium Pink flower buds open up into white flowers.
Explorer white 0.6 m Repeat blooming from summer to frost.
Henry Kelsey c medium medium semi- 7 ft. medium Tall trailing rose may be trained as a climber.
Explorer r red double 2 m Glossy foliage. Repeat bloomer all season.
Hope for Humanity blood- small double 2 ft. light Deep red blooms repeat all season.
Parkland red 0.6 m Commemorates Canadian Red Cross 100th anniv.
Hunter crimson medium double 4 ft. light Brilliant red flowers repeat until frost.
Hybrid Rugosa red 1.2 m Tidy shrub form with dark green foliage.
J. P. Connell cream- medium double 4 ft. light Repeating cream-yellow flowers all season.
Explorer yellow 1.2 m Flower color is stronger on established plants
Jens Munk - r medium medium semi- 3 ft. strong Continual fragrant blooms; attractive rosehips
Explorer pink double 1 m in fall/winter; very hardy shrub/hedging rose.
ROSES
rosespictures

hardy
roses
Adelaide Hoodless Alexander McKenzie Blanc de Coubert

Cpt. Samuel Holland Champlain Charles Albanel Chuckles

138
Cuthbert Grant David Thompson F.J. Grootendoorst Frontenac

George Vancouver Hansa Henry Hudson Henry Kelsey

Hunter J.P. Connell Jens Munk John Cabot

roseshardy roses

ROSES
c - May be trained as climber
r - Attractive rosehips in winter

Variety Color Bloom Petal Height Frag- Features

Size Count (approx.) rance

John Cabot - c reddish- medium double 7 ft. light Tall climbing fragrant rose.
Explorer r pink 2 m Fully double blooms repeat all season.
John Davis - c medium medium double 7 ft. medium Tall rambling rose may be trained as a climber.
Explorer pink 2 m Continual blooms all season.
John Franklin medium medium double 4 ft. light Continual blooms all season.
Explorer red 1.2 m Disease-resistant foliage.
Lambert Closse pale medium double 3 ft. light Full, double flowers; disease resistant shrub.
Explorer pink 1 m Blooms similar to tea roses; repeat blooms.
Linda Campbell ruby medium double 5 ft. light Heavy blooming specimen or hedge rose.
Hybrid Rugosa red 1.5 m Repeat blooms. Almost thornless, arching canes.
Lois Jolliet - c medium medium double 4-5 ft. light Continuous bloom from summer to frost
Explorer pink 1.5 m Trailing growth habit; disease resistant.
Martin Frobisher light medium double 5 ft. strong First introduced Explorer Series rose.
Explorer pink 1.5 m Continual fragrant blooms.
Morden Amorette deep medium double 2 ft. light Continuous blooms from summer to frost
Parkland pink 0.6 m on a very compact plant.
Morden Blush soft small double 3 ft. light Repeat hybrid tea type flowers; low growing rose.
Parkland pink 1 m Longest blooming period of any shrub rose.
Morden Cardinette cardinal medium double 2 ft. light Deep red flowers on a low growing rose.
Parkland red 0.6 m Ever blooming from June until frost.
Morden Centennial - r medium medium double 3 ft. medium Plentiful hot pink flowers; glossy green foliage.
Parkland pink 1 m Repeat blooms; all season.
Morden Fireglow orange- medium double 2 ft. light Unique orange-red flowers repeat all season.
Parkland red 0.6 m Low growing, disease resistant rose.
Morden Ruby ruby medium double 3 ft. light Clusters of ruby red flowers repeat all season. 139
Parkland red 1 m A real jewel in the Morden series.
Morden Sunrise orange small semi- 3 ft. medium Continuous orange-peach blooms with citrus
Parkland blend double 1 m fragrance. Disease resistant, compact shrub.
Nearly Wild - r medium small single 3 ft. medium Pink flowers with light center; everblooming
Shrub pink 1 m Proven all-weather performer.
Persian Yellow - c deep medium double 6 ft. light Tall popular rose with deep yellow flowers.
Rosa foetida persiana r yellow 1.8 m One time profusion of blooms.
Pink Grootendorst medium small double 5 ft. light Carnation-like, pink flowers.
Hybrid Rugosa pink 1.5 m Wrinkled foliage.
Pavement Roses - r white medium single, 3 ft. medium Fragrant blooms repeat all season; orange
Hybrid Rugosa pink, red semi-db. 1 m rosehips. Tolerate temperature extremes and salt.
red-purple double Good for borders and low hedges.
Prairie Dawn medium small double 5 ft. light Continual double pink blooms all season.
Shrub pink 1.5 m Glossy foliage.
Prairie Joy - r medium small double 4 ft. light Hedge type rose for screening; repeat all season
Shrub pink 1.2 m Dense foliage is disease resistant.
Quadra - c deep medium double 5 ft. light Clusters of deep red blooms repeat all season.
Explorer red 1.5 m Arching stems can be trained to climb.
Red Leaf - r light small single 5 ft. medium Reddish-purple foliage; pink flowers in June.
Rosa glauca/rubrifolia pink 1.5 m Red hips and purple branches for winter color.
Rosarie de l’Hay magenta medium semi- 7 ft. strong Continual deep magenta blooms all season.
Hybrid Rugosa red double 2 m Extremely vigorous plants.
Royal Edward deep medium single 1.5 ft. medium Repeat blooms all season.
Explorer pink 0.5 m Low growing, groundcover rose.
ROSES
rosespictures

John Davis John Franklin L.D. Braithwaite Lambert Closse

Linda Campbell Louis Jolliet Martin Frobisher Morden Blush

140

Morden Centennial Morden Fireglow Morden Ruby Nearly Wild

Persian Yellow Pink Grootendoorst Prairie Dawn Rosa Rubrifolia

Theresa Bugnet Topaz Jewel William Baffin Winnipeg Parks

roseshardy roses

ROSES
Variety Color Bloom Petal Height Frag- Features
Size Count (approx.) rance

Samuel Holland c reddish medium double 6 ft. light Continual blooming pillar type rose.
Explorer pink 1.8 m May be trained as a climber.
Simon Fraser medium medium semi- 2 ft. light Continually covered in blooms all season.
Explorer pink double 0.6 m Low growing compact plant.
Sir Thomas Lipton pure medium semi- 7 ft. strong Tall rose with pure white, large fragrant flowers.
Hybrid Rugosa white double 2 m Leathery foliage; repeat blooms all season
Theresa Bugnet r medium medium double 6 ft. medium Tall shrub with full flowers; repeats all season.
Hybrid Rugosa pink 1.8 m Orange-scarlet fall foliage; orange rose hips.
Topaz Jewel butter medium double 5 ft. medium Butter to cream yellow flowers.
Hybrid Rugosa yellow 1.5 m First ever blooming yellow rugosa rose.
Wild Rose of Alberta r medium small single 3 ft. medium Floral emblem of Alberta; repeats all season.
Rosa spp. pink 1 m Native plant is also called Prickly Rose.
William Baffin c medium medium semi- 7 ft. light Popular climbing rose. Prolific bloomer that
Explorer r pink double 2 m repeats from June until frost.
William Booth c pink medium single 5 ft. light Continuous blooms from summer to frost.
Explorer 1.5 m Trailing growth habit.; disease resistant.
Winnipeg Parks r deep medium double 2 ft. medium Popular hardy, low growing rose.
Parkland pink 0.6 m Everblooming.

141
ROSES
roses tender roses
of rose survival, it has been an effective overwintering
method for many tender roses in Calgary.

Tender roses are placed into different categories or

classes which include Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, Grandiflora,
Miniature, Climbing, Old Fashioned, English and Dream
types.

Hybrid Teas are the most popular worldwide. They

have long pointed buds with straight stems. These roses
are typically seen at florist shops. They will require winter
All Tender Roses, Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, Grandi- protection.
flora, Miniature, and Climbing Roses, etc. carry a sea-
sonal guarantee only. Tender Roses are not guaranteed
Floribunda Roses are bred by crossing hybrid teas and
to overwinter.
Polyanthas (typically a single-flowered rose type). Floribun-
das are ever-blooming, flower in clusters, and are generally
shorter plants than hybrid teas. They are a little hardier than
Tender roses, are very popular and add beauty, colour, hybrid teas but still require winter protection.
and fragrance to gardens. They can basically be grown
like an annual in the open garden or on patios in pots. If Grandiflora Roses are hybrids bred from floribundas
you choose to use them as a patio plant make sure you and hybrid teas. Their blossoms are larger than floribundas
sink the pots in the ground in the winter to give the roses and slightly smaller than hybrid teas. Again, they flower
a chance of winter survival. in clusters and resemble hybrid teas in form with longer
stems than floribundas. Suitable for cutting.
Planting and Care:
Tender roses require a sunny location and well-drained, Miniature Roses are ever-blooming with small flowers
slightly acidic soil and respond well to adequate watering that look Similar in form to hybrid teas. They are usually
and fertilizing. For information on planting please see the quite short - 6-18 in.(15-45cm). Due to their short height
Planting Guide on p. . If your plant is a grafted rose then they are easier to overwinter than other non-hardy roses.
plant the graft union about 4 in. (10cm) below ground There are not that many miniatures noted for their fra-
142 level. Plant non-grafted roses with the top of the root ball grance. They can make good houseplants as well if given
at ground level. To reduce foliage diseases keep the soil bright light and cool conditions.
evenly moist without wetting the leaves. Fertilize with one
spring application of Smartcote Rose Food or use a liquid Climbing Roses can have parents that are floribundas
concentrate like Schultz Rose Food applied once a month or hybrid teas. They normally bloom on last year’s growth
from May to mid-August. which will need protection over the winter. You can try to
bend the stems over into a trench and cover them with a
Pruning: mulch. Even with extra protection, tender climbing roses
Remember to trim out one third of the grey stems in the can be quite a challenge to over-winter in our area.,
fall. Trim out the dead stem tips in the spring as well. Cut therefore most Calgary gardeners prefer to plant hardy
out all damaged, dead, and diseased wood. To encourage climbing or rambling roses. Explorer roses such as John
re-bloom , prune back spent flower stems to just above Cabot, John Cabot, Henry Kelsey, or William Baffin, are
the ‘five-leaflet’ leaf. Remember, some tender roses are much hardier, will bloom reliably and can easily be trained
seasonal and do not re-bloom. as climbers.

Winter Protection for Tender Roses:
To protect against Chinook and cold damage, help ten-
der roses prepare for winter. Reduce watering in fall to
allow plant growth to slow down and harden off. In late
fall, just before ground freezes, water the plant gener-
ously. After the ground has frozen, cut back to about
8-10" (20-25cm), place a rose cone, a large tree pot with
the bottom removed, or a heavy, waxed cardboard box
over top of it; and fill the box with vermiculite, peat moss,
straw, sawdust, or dry leaves. Cover the top with cloth,
not plastic, until early May. In spring cover temporarily
if frost is expected. While this method is no guarantee
Old Fashioned or Old Garden include various
species and cultivars that generally bloom early in the
season. They were quite popular before hybrid teas
were developed in the late 1800’s.
English or David Austin have become quite popular.
Hybrids between old fashioned and hybrid tea roses, they
are mostly fragrant with repeat blooms.
Dream Roses were a new introduction in 2001. They are
very disease resistant and vigorous with repeating hybrid
tea type flowers.
 ROSES
Pan Am
exclusives
Golden Cascade Lady Di Prince Charles

Gemini Knock Out 99’ Kaleidoscope First Light

david
austin
roses 143
95’ Brass Bands Abraham Darby Golden Celebration

Graham Thomas Heritage L.D. Braithwaite Wenlock

landscape
roses
Winchester Bonica Carefree Wonder
Cathedral
ROSES

internationaly
patented
hybrid tea
& grandiflora

Anastasia Belami Brandy

Caribbean Gold Medal Heirloom Just Joey

144
Love Midas Touch Paradise Rio Samba

internationaly
patented
floribunda
Secret Touch of Class White Lightnin’

Amber Queen Charisma French Lace Intrigue

 ROSES
hybrid tea
roses
Blue Girl Caribia Chrysler Imperial

Double Delight Irish Gold John F. Kennedy Lady X

145
Mister Lincoln Peace Oldtimer Whiskey Mac

floribunda
roses
Angel Face Circus Iceberg

miniature
sunblaze
roses
Spanish Sun Classic Sunblaze Debut Sunblaze

lawns
your questions
Q: How do I get rid of dog spots?
A: Dog spots are brown or yellow patches edged with dark
green and are a very common lawn problem. The main
reason for the dead grass is the high nitrogen and salt
content in the dog’s urine. This creates a burn exactly like
over-fertilizing. As the nitrogen dilutes towards the edge
of the spot it actually feeds the grass, resulting in the
green areas. The best way to deal with this is to heavily
water the area to flush out the excess nitrogen and salt.
Gypsum, lime, or top-dressing may be applied in order to
increase drainage. If this is a recurring problem in your
lawn, planting a resistant grass like fescue will reduce the
appearance of damage.
Q: The grass under my evergreen is dead or dying.
What can I do?
A: Grass will not grow under spruce and other evergreens
for a number of reasons. The tree blocks both the sunlight
and the rain resulting in a dark, dry area. The best way to
deal with this is to allow the spruce branches to grow to the ground with a spike or metal tine). It is best to consult
the ground as they would naturally. Pruning off the lower
limbs will not encourage the grass to grow, instead it simply
emphasizes the problem. If this pruning has already been
done there are a few things that you can try: seed with
a drought and shade-tolerant grass like a fescue, apply
lime to reduce any accumulated acidity from the needles,
water more often, or use perennials like Aegopodium or
Lily-of-the-Valley as ground covers. The easiest thing to do
in the long run is to lay down landscape fabric and apply
mulch or decorative stone beneath the tree.
Q: I have heard that a lawn needs to be dethatched?
What does this mean and how do I do it?
A: Thatch is a layer of undecomposed grass stems and
roots that accumulates near the soil surface. This is a
natural part of lawn growth and is only harmful if the
thatch is thicker than 1/2 inch (1cm). If it is too thick the
grass will root into the thatch, which does not have the
LAWNS
water holding capabilities of soil, causing the grass to dry
out quickly in hot weather. The best ways to control thatch
are: a spring power raking, aerating with a coring machine
(removes plugs of earth, allowing air and moisture to help
decompose the thatch), or top dressing with a thin layer of
soil to help break down the thatch. Spray on products and
micro-organisms are available to assist in dethatching by
accelerating the decomposing process.
Q: What can you tell me about aerating my lawn?
A: Aerating allows oxygen into the soil; oxygen is impor-
tant for healthy root growth which in turn is important for
147
a healthy lawn. It also improves compacted soil, thatch
problems, and clay soils. Aerating breaks up the thatch
and loosens the soil, encouraging new deeper root growth,
making the lawn more heat and drought tolerant. The lawn
should be aerated in early spring and fall if using a coring
aerator (a machine that removes plugs of soil) or anytime
of the year if the spiking method is used (punching holes in
a professional if a coring method is required.
Q: What is the difference between granular and liquid
fertilizer?
A: A good quality slow-release granular fertilizer will feed
the lawn for around two months, depending on the weather
and the brand purchased. Liquid fertilizer has a faster ef-
fect but it only lasts in the soil for approximately a month,
again depending on the weather.
LAWNS
lawnsplanting & care
SEEDING AND SODDING NEW LAWNS
148
Preparation for a New Lawn: Prior to sowing lawn seed
or laying sod you must first establish a desirable slope and grade
in your yard. In order to prevent basement water problems slope
the soil away from your house. Remember that gentle slopes
are easier to maintain than steep slopes and that the installation
of poured sidewalks, patios, and large trees is best done before
planting a lawn. It is also a good idea to leave shrub and flower
beds unsodded. This will eliminate unnecessary sod removal
when you are ready to landscape.
If you have less than 15-20 cm. of good quality topsoil in your yard you
need additional soil. Purchase screened loam and spread it evenly over
the previously graded subsoil. It is important to level and pack the soil
surface before planting a lawn. Use a landscape rake to level the soil
surface evenly smooth. Then, pack the soil with a lawn roller until the
soil is firm. Finally, apply Root Grow (10-30-10) fertilizer at a rate of five
kilograms per 100 square meters. At this point you are ready to seed
or sod your new lawn.
Seeding:Almost all lawns in the prairies consist of various mixtures of
Kentucky Bluegrass and Creeping Red Fescue. Some lawn mixes also
contain Ryegrass; this grass germinates quickly to stabilize the area,
but dies out after the first season. As a general rule, a blend or mixture,
under average growing conditions will prove the most successful, and
withstand the widest range of conditions. GoldenAcres supplies several
types of excellent quality grass mix. We also carry individual cultivars
for specific locations.
Kentucky Bluegrass - Easy to grow in a sunny location, but suffers
from summer heat if mowed too close. It is disease prone and requires
more fertilizer and dethatching and does not tolerate drought. Kentucky
Bluegrass is coarser textured than fescue, stands up better to high traffic,
and requires more fertilizer at least twice a year.
Creeping Red Fescue - Mixes well with other seed species such as
Kentucky Bluegrass. It is a quick germinating, fine textured, deep green
grass. It grows well in shade and has a medium fertilizer requirement.
Creeping Red Fescue does not hold up as well to high traffic. Best
results are achieved if lawns are seeded in the spring or fall following
the directions listed below. When seeding, make sure an adequate
supply of water is supplied.
How Much Seed is Required: To determine how much seed
you will need, measure the length and width of the plot to be seeded
and multiply one measurement by the other; to calculate the area. If
for example, the plot to be seeded is 10 m. (38 ft.) long by 8 m. (26 ft.)
wide the area of the plot to be seeded equals 80 sq. m. (858 sq. ft.).
Check the package of lawn seed to determine how much seed will be
required to cover the plot in question. Do not try to spread lawn seed
further than suggested on the package. If you skimp on lawn seed
your lawn will look bare and unattractive. Likewise do not over seed in
attempt to create a more dense lawn.
1. Use a drop seeder to evenly spread 2.5 kg. of seed over 100
square meters. It is best to set the spreader at half this rate and apply
the seed in two passes at right angles to each other.
2. After seeding apply a thin layer of peat moss over the entire
area. This helps retain moisture and holds the seed to ensure a quality
product.
3. Lay sod, usually purchased in 50 centimeter by 2 meter rolls, so
that the end seams are staggered. Be sure to fit the seams together tightly.
Trim the sod with a sharp knife where it meets sidewalks or other objects
and fill in any gaps with soil or peat moss. Roll the sod with a lawn roller
to ensure good contact between the grass roots and the soil. Water the
newly sodded area thoroughly, two to three hours per area, three to four
times per week. Keep the sod consistently moist until there are significant
signs of new growth.
CARING FOR ESTABLISHED LAWNS:
Spring Clean-Up:Oncethesnowhasmelted,thegroundhasthawed,
and the soil has dried enough to cultivate, it is time to prepare your lawn
for spring.
1. Removedeadgrass,thatch,leaves,anddebrisfromyourlawnwith
a hand or power rake. For best results rake your lawn twice in directions
that are at right angles to each other.
2. Applyahighnitrogen,slowreleasefertilizer;spreadingitevenlyover
the entire lawn. Consult Golden Acre staff for information on the various
types of lawn fertilizer we sell and the recommended fertilizer application
rates. Weed and Feed fertilizers and weed sprays such as Killex are most
effective when applied during warm weather when weeds are actively
growing.
3. Water the entire lawn thoroughly so that the water penetrates to
a depth of 10 to 15 cm. This encourages the development of a deep
root system which is capable of maintaining the grass during dry spells.
Lawns become green when soil warms up; south exposures will green
up more quickly than north exposures. To maintain this spring green
appearance continue to fertilize and water your lawn throughout the
summer months.
Fertilizing: For best results fertilize your lawn four times a year: early
spring (April-May), early summer (June-July), late summer (August-
September),andearlyfall(September-October).Fallfertilizerapplications
are important. The slow release, low nitrogen fertilizer you apply in the fall
develops strong roots which enables the grass to over winter well. Fall
fertilizersarestoredintherootsystemoverthewinterandprovidenutrients
for early spring growth. For this reason the fall is also a good time to control
perennial weeds. As nutrients are being stored in the root system of your
lawn, herbicides can likewise be moved into the extensive root systems
of perennial weeds. Spring and summer fertilizer applications replace
the nitrogen you remove constantly, every time you mow your lawn. A
constant source of suitable nutrients and adequate moisture is all your
lawn requires to remain green and actively growing.
Watering:Allgardenplants,includingyourlawn,requireregularirrigation.
Less frequent, deep watering is better than light, frequent waterings.
Except during rainy periods, water your lawn once a week for 1-2 hours
per area.
Mowing: In the spring, once your lawn has grown to about 5 cm tall, it is
time to start mowing. Set the mower to cut at a height of 4-6 cm and mow
the lawn. It is a good practice to cut the lawn before the mower has to cut
off more than 2 cm. Don’t mow your lawn in the same direction every time
you mow. By mowing in the opposite direction to your last mow you can
obtain a more even cut and prevent lines form forming in your lawn. If you
aremeticulousaboutyourlawnmowittwice.Bymowingtwice,inopposite
directions, you can attain an evenly cut, manicured lawn.
Preparing Your Lawn for Winter: A little preparation in the fall
encourages early spring growth in your lawn. As the days get shorter
and the temperatures drop your lawn will stop growing. Now is the time
LAWNS
to mow your lawn for one last time. Set your mower to cut 1-2 cm lower
than normal, mow the entire lawn, apply a slow release nitrogen winter
formulation fertilizer, and then water the entire lawn thoroughly. This will
ensureanamplesupplyofnutrientsandmoistureforearlyspringgrowth.If
fall turns into an Indian Summer and the lawn dries out, continue watering
your lawn until freeze up. Remember to drain outside taps or any items
that are stored outside; for example, sprinklers, nozzles, or hoses. These
articles can be seriously damaged by freezing water.
Renovating Old Lawns: Older, poorly cared for lawns will eventually
require renovation. To renovate such lawns, aerate the entire lawn using
a plug removing core aerator; rather than one that simply slices holes.
This enables air, water, and nutrients to penetrate the soil surface to reach
the root zone. Over the surface of the area, evenly spread a thin (1-2 cm
thick) coat of peat moss, topsoil or Soil Booster. Using a grass seeder,
spread lawn seed at a rate of 1.5 kg per 100 square meters over the
entire area. Now fertilizer the area with a high nitrogen lawn food following
the manufacturer’s recommended application rate. Finally water the area
thoroughly; allowing 2-3 hours per area. The combined growth of the old
grass and the newly seeded grass will produce a quality lawn you can
be proud of.
Turfgrass Terms:
SPECIES - a group of plants that are able to interbreed such as Kentucky
Bluegrass (Poa pratensis), or Creeping Red Fescue (Festuca rubra).
CULTIVARS-cultivatedvarietiesincludingBaron,Fylking,Glade,Nugget
or Regent of Kentucky Bluegrass
BLEND-acombinationofseedsof2ormorecultivarsofasingleturfgrass
species such as Kentucky bluegrass
MIXTURE - a combination of seeds of 2 or more species such as
Kentucky Bluegrass and Creeping Red Fescue
149
Lawn Rollers
&
Fertilizer Spreaders
are available
for rent at our store.
Ask at Customer
Service for more
details.
LANDSCAPING
landscapingdesign tips
The general principles for good yard and garden design remain
the same no matter where in the world you are landscaping.
Landscaping involves the creation of an attractive plant display in
such a way that the available space is used economically. Listed
below are the general considerations or basic rules necessary to
design a landscape that suits your particular needs.
1. Organize yourself by preparing a working design on paper
first. It is much easier to move trees and shrubs around on
paper than to transplant misplaced plants later.
2. Consider the requirements for maintenance-free landscaping
in the planning stage. Weeding and watering can be reduced
considerably if you plan ahead. By using landscape
fabrics, lawn edgings, and ground covers weeding is much
less and easier. Installed soaker lines or underground
sprinkler systems not only reduce watering requirements
but also considerably reduce water wastage. The result of
planning ahead and installing these labor saving devices
is a more attractive landscape with reduced maintenance
requirements.
3. Use natural angles and curves in construction and planting
rather than straight lines. Straight lines are monotonous in
flat, regular, rectangular yards.
4. Use plant material to cover unattractive foundations, corners
and fences. Planting in this way creates a natural looking
landscape.
5. Avoid overplanting, one of the biggest problems in home
landscaping. Overplanting leads to the need for extensive
150
pruning or even the removal of some plants once the
landscape matures. Overplanting occurs when fast results
are desired, when you compensate for an initial lack of color,
and when you fail to foresee the ultimate size and shape of
small, young plants.
6. Create interesting landscapes by grouping similar plants
into compact groups or by grouping unlike plants into
complementary arrangements. In the latter case space the
plants further apart, allowing room for each plant to develop
individually. Avoid planting single specimens in a haphazard
manner.
7. Arrange plants so that their colors contrast or complement
one another. Plan for color during the dormant season
by using at least one-third evergreen material. Use plant
material which has attractive fall leaf color or winter stem
color. Burning Bush and Red Osier Dogwood are respective
examples.
8. Use perennial and annual flowers, in combination with
trees and shrubs, to add color during the growing season.
Do not attempt to replace trees and shrubs with perennial
and annual flowers.
9. Consider the different microclimates within your yard. Select
site specific plants tolerant of the various conditions in
your yard. The Golden Acre staff will be glad to assist you
in selecting plant material for the sunny, shady, or windy
location in your yard.
xeriscaping

XERISCAPING
In spite of the unusually wet spring of 2005, Southern Alberta
remains very dry. We need several years of above normal
precipitation spread throughout the year to replenish ground
moisture. Intelligent and responsible water usage is required if we
wish to have beautiful and productive gardens and landscapes.
This section is a brief guide on gardening in our generally dry
conditions.

Lawns
Dry weather can take its toll on lawns in particular, or at least on
the person caring for the lawn. Nobody likes to see his or her lush
green grass slowly become sparse and brown. There are ways of
coping with this problem instead of simply giving up. In order to
conserve water the following steps can be followed.

Know Your Irrigation System

Maintain your irrigation system and use it effectively. Make sure
sprinkler heads are working properly and not leaking or wasting
water. Avoid having heads spray onto the pavement or road. To
find out exactly how much water you are putting down place empty
margarine containers on the lawn to catch the water. Time how long
it takes to fill the containers with ½ inch of water. Irrigate twice as
long to provide sufficient moisture: about 1 in. of water. If surface
run-off occurs, stop irrigating that area until water soaks in then
water again until the area has received about 1 in. and is soaked
to a depth of about 4-6 in. (10-15cm). Reduce evaporation; water
at night or in the early morning.

Strengthen Your Grass 151

Even when there are no watering restrictions, infrequent deep
waterings are recommended in order to help create stronger,
deeper root systems. Most lawns can easily wait 7 days or longer
between waterings. Avoid a set schedule and prevent the lawn
from ‘expecting’ water at a certain time. Wait until you footprints
are easily visible in the grass and/or the lawn takes on a blue-green
color. If there are no water restrictions apply about 1 inch of water
across the entire lawn, moving your sprinkler as necessary. Wait
until you see signs of water stress again (footprints, blue-gray color)
before re-watering. If only small areas are dry then hand water with
a hose or watering can. Another way to help your grass prepare
for drought situations is to avoid heavy nitrogen fertilization. Lush, What to do During a Drought
fast-growing grass requires more water and fares poorly in dry Don’t Panic! If you have prepared your grass by following the
weather. Apply nitrogen fertilizer once in the spring, once in mid- above instructions it should make it through the dry spell. The
summer, and once in the fall. Water thoroughly after fertilizing. It lawn may not appear as attractive as you would like but it is still
also helps to let your lawn grow to about 3 in. The longer grass alive. In order to help the grass through this stressful period
blades create more food and build stronger grass plants. Finally, restrict foot traffic as this can easily damage the plants. Do not
and this may be the hardest task of all, try to accept the fact that apply chemicals (fertilizers, pesticides, or fungicides) and stop
you lawn may be less than perfect. mowing once the grass stops growing. In a worst case scenario
(total water restrictions) the grass will begin to go dormant. Again,
Preparing the Lawn for Water Restrictions don’t panic! Kentucky Bluegrass can and does survive a whole
If water restrictions are expected avoid planting new lawns by seed summer without irrigation. Naturally, the lawn will be brown but
or with sod and reduce or cease any planned nitrogen applications. it is not dead. Fine fescue lawns will also survive in a dormant
To help conserve moisture keep your grass as long as your mower state but tall fescue and perennial rye grass do not fare as well.
will allow. Do not keep the soil moist in anticipation of a drought; Once the drought is over and watering goes back to normal the
instead water deeply as infrequently as possible; your lawn will be grass will begin to return to its original state, greening up quite
stronger going into any drought situation. quickly in the case of Kentucky Bluegrass.
XERISCAPING
xeriscapinggardens
Vegetable Gardening in Dry Weather
Unfortunately vegetables, unlike your lawn, do not go dormant
when water supplies run low. However, there are a number of
methods you can employ to reduce the water requirements.

Amend the Soil

Adding soil amendments such as compost or manure will increase
the quality of the soil along with water retention. If you plan on
applying manure use a composted not raw form in the fall, al-
lowing it to break down further over the winter. Zeolite’s open
structure is especially effective in retaining water and breaking
down clay soils.
Irrigation
The best form of irrigation for vegetable gardens is drip or trickle
irrigation that can reduce water usage by about 50%. The soaker
hose, not to be confused with the sprinkler hose, is the best
method of drip irrigation, allowing water to seep out the length
of the hose at a slow and constant rate. To ensure that you do
not overwater check the soil regularly. If it holds together when
you squeeze it in your hand it is moist and watering should be
delayed.
There are a few other methods that can be applied to save water.
Plant in blocks instead of rows; this creates shade for the roots
and reduces evaporation. Be vigilant with the weeding since
weeds compete with your vegetables for water. Finally, a layer
of mulch can help conserve moisture. Place organic material on
the garden to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (the larger the particle of
mulch the deeper the layer) in late spring. The best mulch is a
152 thin layer of grass clippings with no herbicide or weed and feed
or pesticides or even fertilizer recently applied. Allow each
layer to dry before adding more.
Know Your Plants
If you know when your vegetables need the most water
you can target them at that time, shifting focus from one
in favor of another if necessary. The following is a partial
list of crops and when they require water the most:
Broccoli, Cabbage, and Cauliflower
- Generally need water most of the season. Water use
is highest when the heads are forming.
Beans
- need a constant supply of water. These plants uses
the most water of any garden vegetable. On dry windy
days blossoms can easily fall. To tell if your beans
are experiencing water stress look at the leaves. If
they are grayish then apply water.
Carrots, Radishes, Etc.
- need a constant supply of water otherwise they will
crack, get knobby, and/or take on hot flavor.
Lettuce, Spinach, and other Leafy Vegetables
- water use is most during head development but for
quality they need a constant supply of water.

Flowers Onion, Garlic

The most important element in growing flowers in a dry area or
- need plenty of moisture.
in practicing water conservation is the soil. Most flowers perform
poorly on heavy clay as oxygen levels are lower around their
roots. On the other hand, sandy soils do not hold water well. Peas
If either is the case you can begin to improve your soil through - need lots of water especially during pod growth
the addition of compost and/or peat moss and zeolite. If this is
your first year amending either an old, uncared for bed or a new Potatoes
poor garden, plant annuals the first season. It will be easier to - dry conditions cause tubers to become knobby
cultivate and incorporate organic material after the plants are - supply adequate moisture during and after
killed by frost. flowering
In addition to having a good growing medium it is important to
Tomatoes and Peppers
know your plants. Make sure you plant flowers that are appro-
priate for the place you want them to grow. For example, plant - tomatoes and peppers actually have a lower watering
shade-tolerant plants like canterbury bells or columbines in shady requirement than many vegetables and tend to get
areas or plant yarrow or baby’s breath in dry, sunny areas. This overwatered. Too much watering can lead to blos-
way you won’t be fighting to keep a plant that likes it moist alive som end rot where the bottom of the fruit turns black
in a dry area and vice versa. and sunken. Consistent watering is best for these
plants.
Annuals & Bulbs
Most annuals will do well in dry gardens that have decent soil,
needing only one to two inches of water per week. The best
bedding out plants for hot areas are marigolds, zinnias, alyssum,
and bachelor’s button. Spring-flowering bulbs do most of their
growing when the season is moister and cooler.
xeriscaping trees & shrubs

XERISCAPING
Of all our garden plants trees and shrubs are perhaps the most Planting Trees in Dry Periods
neglected. We are not normally aware that they face the same Plant trees during dry periods as you would during normal
sorts of troubles that our showier garden plants face. A tree under weather - just be careful not to let them dry out. Plant smaller
drought stress, and many of them trees (2 in. caliper or less for deciduous or 5-6
are in Calgary, is not as obvious Leaf Curl ft. tall for evergreens). This helps reduce finan-
as a dried up petunia. It can take cial risk if any are lost. This size of tree usually
up to two years for the full impact adapts better to dry weather than a larger one.
of drought to become noticeable Use Myke Tree & Shrub growth supplement to
in a tree. Some things you should help establish vigorous root systems that will
look for are wilting, leaf curl, and stand up to drought in the future.
yellowing. Deciduous trees may
develop leaf scorch, brown-edged
leaves, and/or browning between
leaf veins. Evergreen needles may
Needle Browning
turn yellow, red, or even purple and
browning may be seen throughout
the needle. Drought stress may not Leaf Browning
kill the tree but can severely weaken
it, leaving it open to insect infesta-
tions or disease as in the case of
birch leaf miners.

Watering
Most trees in Calgary are underwa-
tered but following these steps will
help to give your tree the moisture it
needs. Water to a depth of 12 inches
by saturating the soil from the trunk
or main stems out to and beyond dripline, (the outer edge of the
branches). In the case of evergreens, water three to five feet Trees & Shrubs That Perform
153
beyond the dripline. Slow, long watering encourages deep roots Well in Dry Areas
which leads to better drought tolerance. If or when there are
dry periods trees should take precedence over your lawn. Deciduous Trees
A 25-year old tree takes 25 years to replace – a lawn takes Bur Oak – Quercus macrocarpa
a few months. Move the sprinkler/soaker hose around during Chokecherry - Prunus virginiana var.
watering to ensure total coverage. To water the entire root area Elm - Ulmus americana ‘Brandon’
at once, use a long soaker hose coiled several times around the Green Ash - Fraxinus pennslyvanica
tree and out towards the dripline and beyond. Trees generally Russian Olive - Elaeagnus angustifolia
need two to three deep waterings per month following the above Snowbird Hawthorn - Crataegus mordensis
guidelines to receive adequate moisture. Evergreen Trees and Shrubs
Junipers – Juniperus spp. - especially blue upright and
Winter Watering and Mulching blue spreading types
As a result of our warm dry winters and lack of snow cover our Pine - Pinus spp. ie. Bristlecone, Mugo, Ponderosa,
trees and shrubs need periodic watering during the winter. Gen- Scots
erally, water one to two times per month October though April Spruce - Colorado Blue (Picea pungens ‘Glauca’)
on a warm day when the ground is not frozen but when freezing Deciduous Shrubs
temperatures are forecast. Follow the above summer watering
Caragana – Caragana spp.
method. As water freezes in the soil, it will keep roots from dry-
Golden Currant – Ribes aureum
ing out and stabilize winter soil temperatures, improving winter
Honeysuckle - Lonicera spp., Diervilla lonicera
survival. It also helps to mulch the root area of plants that are
exposed to warm winter sun and Chinook winds. Mulch protects Pavement Roses - Rosa rugosa hybrids
shallow roots from winter damage and prevents premature spring Preston Lilac and Late Lilac – Syringa spp.
growth. Sea Buckthorn - Hippophae ramnoides
Silver Buffaloberry – Shepherdia argentea
Snowberry - Symphoricarpos albus
Wolf Willow - Elaeagnus commutata
SOIL
soilyour questions
Q: What is the difference between vermiculite and
perlite?
A: Perlite is a naturally occurring volcanic rock that
expands when heated. Vermiculite is also a mineral and it
too expands when heated. The finished expanded product
is what you buy from the store. Both provide aeration and
drainage and both retain water for release later. Perlite
has a neutral pH and lasts longer than vermiculite which
holds more water than perlite.
Q: Why should I use manure? What is the best
kind?
A: Manure contains the primary nutrients (nitrogen,
phosphorous, and potassium) but in small amounts and
should be supplemented with fertilizer. Manures are,
however, usually an excellent source of vital secondary
elements like sulphur, calcium, and magnesium and
micronutrients such as zinc, boron, iron, and copper.
Manure’s most important use is as a soil conditioner; it
retains moisture in sandy soil and helps aerate clay soil.
The best manure for a spring application is pre-composted
mushroom manure. It is better to apply steer and sheep
manure in the fall, allowing it to compost during the
winter.
containing a mix of fine and coarse particles which allow
for drainage and air circulation. Loam, though excellent in
the garden and in farmers’ fields, holds too much water and
not enough air for successful container gardening. Most
potting soils are made up of peat moss, vermiculite, and
perlite but some will also have earthworm castings, water
retaining crystals for hanging baskets, and fertilizer.
Q: What are the benefits of adding compost to my
garden?
A: The most important thing compost adds is organic
material. This improves the way water interacts with the
soil. For example, in sandy soils compost helps retain
water while in clay soils it actually improves drainage.
Compost also innoculates the soil which means that it
adds large quantities of beneficial microbes like bacteria
and fungi. These microbes extract nutrients from the
mineral part of the soil and eventually pass the nutrients
on to plants. For further information, particularly on how
to start and maintain your own compost, please see our
composting section.

Q: What is the best mulch to use and why? How

do I apply it?
A: Putting down a layer of shredded wood, wood
chips, or bark on your garden beds is good for a
154 number of reasons. Mulch helps keep the soil an
even temperature in summer and winter, it aids in
moisture retention, it inhibits weed growth, and it
makes your garden look more attractive. The best
time to apply or top up your mulch is in the fall after
the first hard frost but it can be put down any time
at a depth of 2-4 inches. Shredded wood/bark is
probably the best choice as it holds moisture better
than wood chips and the lower layers decay more
readily, adding composted material directly to the
garden beds.

Q: What is the difference between loam and topsoil?
A: The word ‘topsoil’ actually means whatever soil is found
on the surface of the land in any particular region. This ‘soil’
can range from mostly sand to mostly clay. Loam falls in the
middle, containing clay, silt, sand, and organic materials.
This is what is usually meant by ‘topsoil’. Commercial
topsoil is usually loam.
Q: Why is there no soil in potting soil?
A: Technically ‘soil’ refers to any growing medium which
means that potting soil can be considered a ‘soil’. What
most people mean to ask is “Why is there no loam in
potting soil?” Potting soil is specifically formulated for
growing plants in containers. It is much lighter in texture,
Q: What is Zeolite soil conditioner?
A: Zeolite is a natural volcanic mineral that does not break
down like organic material. Once you work it into the soil it
will remain active for years. The sharp edges of the zeolite
break down clay and allow air and moisture to both reach
and leave the soil. When zeolite is turned into the soil its
open structure interacts with other minerals to improve
the soil. It also balances soil pH by locking away alkali
contaminants, allowing nutrients such as nitrogen, calcium,
iron, and magnesium to reach the plants. Zeolite will lock
away water, releasing it during dry spells as well.
composting

COMPOSTING
What is composting? What You Can Compost
Composting is a natural biochemical process of decay in which Kitchen food wastes such as vegetable trimmings, fruit peels,
bacteria, fungi, worms, and other small organisms in the soil tea bags, grass clippings, dead plants, pruning clippings and
decompose organic matter. This breakdown of kitchen and sawdust.
yard waste results in a dark, earth-smelling, nutrient-rich, soil
conditioner known as humus or compost. What You Can Not Compost
Meat, fat or bones. Weeds with seeds present that could
Why compost? germinate where you don't want them. Grass clippings that have
Composting is an easy way to return organic material to the soil. been sprayed with weed killer.
It conditions soil and improves plant growth. Another reason
for composting is to reduce the amount of organic matter going Using the Compost
to landfill sites. Kitchen and yard waste makes up about 33% Usually a compost pile is started in the spring, when there is a
of residential solid waste. If you compost, and also recycle great deal of refuse to clean up. Organic matter is added until
newspapers, bottles and cans; it will help reduce the amount of the pile contains as much as it can and still have room to turn.
household garbage going to landfill sites. By fall this is a crumbly, dark, earthy soil - like material that is
very useful to condition flower and vegetable beds, to use as a
Compost Enclosures mulch for winter protection or moisture preservation, or improve
In the city, most people want a compost pile enclosed, to keep it the soil for new beds. When you have used the compost you have
tidy and inconspicuous. This can be as simple as wooden slats, made, fall clean-up material can be used to start a new batch. It
with spaces between for air circulation, or chicken wire, supported will decompose until the weather becomes too cold, then begin
by wooden fence posts at the corners. There are also plastic again in the spring and become the basis of the pile for the next
compost bins, made from recycled
plastic, which are unobtrusive, tidy, and
retain heat and moisture. Ideal size for
a compost pile is about a metre (yard)
cube. Many people have two bins
side-by-side, so that they can add to
one while the other full one is finishing
the composting process. It should be
in an area with good air circulation,
and a sunny, warm spot will enable
it to work faster, but is not absolutely
necessary. In a cool, shady spot it will
155
just take longer.

Starting a Compost Pile

Start with a layer of brush cuttings
from pruning, or coarse vegetable
matter. Add layers of grass clippings
and other fresh, green material, then
layers of dry, brown material, such
as sawdust, tea bags, coffee grounds
or dry leaves. Manures, fertilizers,
compost activators or soil will speed
up decomposing assuming the pile is
kept damp but not wet. year. For further information, there are several good books on
composting in the bookstore.
Maintaining a Compost Pile
Composting requires good air circulation, the material must be
damp but not wet, and there must be a layer of green, damp
material and dry, brown material. The pile must be turned
periodically to enable oxygen to reach the material in the centre.
It should be covered if there is a lot of rain. If the compost pile
has an unpleasant odor, then it is too wet. Be sure it has good
drainage at the bottom, add more dry material, cover to protect
from rain, and turn more frequently. You may also need to sprinkle
it with water if the weather is hot and dry. The heat developing
in the pile kills bacteria, and also indicates that decomposition
is taking place. Cover kitchen wastes with soil or other material
to avoid attracting pets and rodents. Plastic containers with lids
prevent this problem.
 • lawns • flowergarden • vegetable gardens • evergreens • trees • shrubs
• planters • indoor tropical plants • deck planters • lawn patch • fridge odors
• odor control in cat litter and dog runs • compost pile • chemical spill clean-up

use anywhere in the garden and beyond

Benefits
- overall soil characteristics
- water holding capability
- absorbs toxins from the soil
- loosens and aerates hard clay soils
- reduces amounts of fertilizer used
- naturally adjusts the pH of the soil
- remains stable and does not break down
- odor absorbing qualities
- accelerates established root zones
- lowers nutrient leachate loss
- 100% natural and ecologically safe
Results
- stronger, deeper more robust root zones
- maintainance in hot weather is easier with less
watering time
- reduced fertilizing costs
- healthier and more productive plants
- greatly improved water retention in soils
- reduced salts and toxic metals in soil
- controls odors in your compost bin
Zeolite has many different uses in and around
your home and garden
nutrients
zeolite
ZEOLITE, not to be confused with ZONALITE, has been used
in industrial, agricutural, and livestock feed applications for a
number of years but is relatively new to the gardening
community. Zeolite is available at Golden Acre in it's
pure form, in soil-less planting mixes and in Gypszeolite
(a blend of gypsum and Zeolite)
Zeolite is an extraordinary product with a multitude of
uses above and beyond gardening, many of which are
listed below. It is a natural volcanic mineral formed when
volcanic ash was deposited in ancient alkali lakes. The ash
interacted with the salts in the
water, creating
zeolite minerals.
These minerals
have an unusual
crystalline
structure; trace
minerals like
potassium,
calcium, iron,
and magnesium
are arranged
throughout
the mineral in
honeycombs of
channels and
cavities. This open structure greatly increases the surface are
within the mineral, giving it amazing absorbing capabilities. One
of the most, if not the most, important aspect of zeolites is that
they are able to exchange positively charged ions allowing them
to absorb harmful elements from the water, soil, or air. Zeolites
can remove calcium from hard water by exchanging sodium
ions for calcium ions resulting in soft water and allowing natural
calcium to be available to the plant. Zeolites can do this with
many heavy metals and, because of these properties, are used
extensively in industrial and environmental applications.
Since zeolite is a mineral it does not break down like leaves,
sawdust, or other organic material and it performs better than
either gypsum or sand. Once zeolite has been worked into the
soil it will remain for years absorbing any harmful or toxic
elements. The sharp edges of its silica structure break up clay and
increase air and moisture movement through the soil. Zeolites’
open channels and cavities increase it’s surface area more
than 100 times greater than sand allowing for excellent water
absorption when wet and water release when the soil around it
begins to dry.
Horticultural Use
Zeolite can be used in all gardening situations. For tropical plants
incorporate 20% zeolite into your soil-less mix to eliminate
excess salts from fertilizers. It can be especially helpful in the
lawn, increasing the roots of the grass, which means greater
drought tolerance and faster recovery time from damage and
NUTRIENTS
disease. By opening the pores in the grass it softens the blades
resulting in a more cushiony lawn. For lawns scatter 20 kg per 10
m2/3530 ft2. For garden beds use 20
kg per 10 m2 /353 ft2. When applying
to planters mix in about ½ an inch.
The water-holding capacity of the soil
will be greatly increased. Harmful
metals and other elements will be
locked away allowing the plants to
receive the nutrients that they need.
Clay soils will become lighter and
more workable and much more air
will reach the roots of the plants.
Animal and Pet Uses
Zeolite will create a healthier environment for
your animals by locking away ammonia and
other harmful and/or disagreeable chemicals. It
is commonly used in horse stalls and feed lots for
odor control. You can add it to cat litter to greatly
reduce that lovely ammonia aroma and to deodorize
doghouses and/or dog runs. Work in 1/4 inch layer
prior to re-seeding dog spots to neutralize the area.
Zeolites can be used in bird and small rodent cages
and even for chinchilla baths. Finally, it is excellent
for absorbing any pet accidents from the carpets
or flooring.
Household Uses
157
Zeolites are excellent at absorbing odors and/or excess moisture.
Place some in a small box as you would baking soda to reduce
or eliminate odors in the fridge, cabinets, closets, shoe storage,
and so on. It can eliminate freezer ice buildup by locking away
excess moisture. A sachet placed in hockey bags, with sports
equipment, in clothes hampers, or similar areas will greatly
reduce odors.
Absorbent Properties
One of the best uses for zeolites is taking care of spills. Zeolites
are highly absorbent and lock away chemicals, neutralizing
dangerous materials. According to www.nationalzeolite.
com zeolites can absorb, trap, or neutralize the following: acids,
ammonia, antifreeze, bleach, blood, diesel fuel, Drano, gas from
carpet glues, gasoline, lighter fluid, mold, oil, paint and paint
thinner, many pesticides including sevin, Round-Up and Killex,
oil stain, turpentine, WD40, and even urine. And this is only
a partial list! There are many other spills and environmental
contaminants that zeolites can contain and control.
Gypszeolites are natural minerals that do not breakdown
like sawdust or leaves. The silica in gypszeolites breaks up
clay soil by splitting the clay particles to allow air and mois-
ture to move both ways. When gypszeolite in incorporated
into the soil, its open structure and channels interact with
other minerals to improve the soil. Gypszeolite's structure
and high Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) attracts water
and nutrients such as calcium, iron and magnesium, lock-
ing them up inside the gypszeolite and slowly releasing
the water and nutrients as the plant requires them. The
CEC of gypszeolite is 100 times greater than sand.
Gypszeolite also reduces the soil pH as it absorbs excess
calcium, magnesium, sodium and other alkaline-causing
agents from the soil. When soil pH is corrected, the proper
balance of nutrients becomes available for absorption by
plant roots.
This product holds moisture. Do not over water.
Tropical Plants: Mix in 10% gypszeolite onto mix to
eliminate salts due to excess fertilization. Makes for a
finer rootsystem by splitting root hairs.
Lawn: 10 kg per 100 sq. meters/1530sq. ft.
Potting Mixes: Mix 5% gypszeolite into potting soil.
Vegetables: Make row and slightly scatter down row,
seed and cover.
Bulbs, Tubers, Potatoes, and Perennials: Mix a small
handful of gypszeolite in and around plants
Small Trees (evergreens and shrubs up to 5 gal): one cup
mixed in and around root zone
Large Trees (7 gallon up to caliper trees): mix two cups
in and around root zone
Other Uses
Dog Runs: Sprinkle one pound (454 grams/2 cups) per
100 sq. ft./9.30 sq. meters)
Gypszeolite can also be added to dog urine spots on lawn.
Cover spot with mix of grass seed, peat moss, loam, and
gypszeolite.
Composting Piles: add 1-2 cups (252-454 grams) per
layer of pile to aid in keeping odors down.
nutrients
Major Elements Functional Uses In Plant Deficiency Symptoms

NUTRIENTS
(Macro Nutrients)
Nitrogen (N) Growth and development of green leaves Chlorosis of older, lower leaves; stunting
and stems; component of most proteins

Phosphorus (P) Promotes root growth and development; Purplish coloration; stunted root growth
energy storage and transfer within plant

Potassium (K) Improves cold hardiness, drought tolerance Poor flowering and fruit formation;
and disease resistance; promotes blooms brown leaf edges

Sulphur (S) Component of 3 proteins and 2B vitamins; Chlorosis of younger leaves; stunting
flavor of onion, garlic, and mustard; a fungicide

Calcium (Ca) Promotes cell division, strong cell walls, Collapse of cell walls and structural failure;
and sturdy structure curled leaf tips; stunting

Magnesium (Mg) Component of chlorophyll; Marginal (edges) and interveinal (between

essential for photosynthesis veins) chlorosis of older leaves

Minor Elements Functional Uses In Plant Deficiency Symptoms

(Micro Nutrients)
Iron (Fe) Formation of chlorophyll Interveinal chlorosis of younger leaves

Manganese (Mn) Helps in uptake of carbon dioxide which is Mottled interveinal chlorosis of leaves
used for photosynthesis.

Boron (B) Development of shoot tips and leaf bud; Tip growth die back and deformed buds
formation and movement of sugars in plant 159
Chlorine (Cl) Stimulates photosynthesis Wilting but rare because present in water

Copper (Cu) Formation of chlorophyll and converting leaf chlorosis and shoot tip growth die
sunlight into energy; also a fungicide back

Molybdenum (Mo) Helps production and use of nitrogen Marginal and interveinal chlorosis of
older leaves

Zinc (Zn) Formation of growth hormones Mottled leaf chlorosis, little leaves;
Rosetting
 nutrients
NUTRIENTS

Plant Type Nutrients Needed Some Recommended Fertilizers

ANNUALS*
* If using Myke® Annual & Perennial growth supplement (increases phosphorous uptake), use fertilizers with 15% or less phosphorous (5-15-5)
Bedding Out Plants High phosphorous to Water soluble powder: Miracle Gro, Plant-Prod Flowering
promote flowering. Liquid concentrate: Alaska MorBloom
Granular: So-Green Rose and Flower, Smartcote Annual Food
Hanging Baskets Treat as a bedding out Water soluble/liquid concentrate: see ‘Bedding Out Plants’
plant or use slow-release Granular: Smartcote Hanging Basket Food
fertilizer in the soil. Other: Jobe’s Plant Spikes
Seedlings/Transplants High phosphorous for root Water soluble: Plant-Prod 10-52-10
growth; a root stimulant Liquid concentrate: Plant Starter 5-15-5 with rooting stimulant
is often required. Granular: Bone Meal, Root Grow
Vegetables Less emphasis on nitrogen Water soluble: Plant-Prod Tomato & Vegetable
except for leafy vegetables. Liquid concentrate: Schultz Tomato Food
Granular: So-Green Garden Food or Tomato Food, Vigioro Pink
All Purpose
Water Plants Only trace elements are Pond tablets in the water at the rate of one per month will supply
required. the necessary nutrients.

PERENNIALS*
* If using Myke® Bulb or Annual & Perennial growth supplement (increases phosphorous uptake), use fertilizers with 15% or less phosphorous (5-15-5)
Bulbs Relatively high Water soluble: Plant-Prod Flowering, Miracle Gro
(Spring & Summer) phosphorous fertilizer to Granular: Bone Meal
encourage roots & flowers. Note: Bloodmeal helps keep some squirrels from feeding on
bulbs.
Perennials Need phosphorous for a Water soluble: Plant-Prod Flowering, Miracle Gro
strong root system and Liquid concentrate: Alaska MorBloom, Shultz All Purpose
160 potassium for healthy Granular: Bonemeal, So-Green Perennial Food, Smartcote
growth. Perennial, Miracle Gro Shake-n-Feed
Transplanting High phosphorous to Water soluble: Plant-Prod 10-52-10
promote root growth Liquid concentrate: Plant Starter 5-15-5 with rooting stimulant
Granular:Root Grow or Bone Meal, So-Green Super Phosphate
Vines Require higher levels Water soluble: Miracle Gro, Plant-Prod Flowering
of phosphorous. Liquid concentrate: Alaska MorBloom
Granular: So-Green Clematis & Vine, Bone Meal when planting
Winterizing Never add nitrogen A fertilizer without nitrogen will strengthen plants for better
in fall as it encourages winter survival: Alaska MorBloom, So-Green Muriate of Potash
excess leafy growth.
TREES & SHRUBS*
* If using Myke® Tree & Shrub growth supplement (increases natural phosphorous uptake), use fertilizers with 15% or less phosphorous (5-15-5)
Deciduous Balanced nutrients Water soluble: Plant-Prod All Purpose, Miracle Gro
are necessary Liquid concentrate: Schultz All Purpose
Granular: Smartcote Shrub & Evergreen,
Miracle Gro Shake-n-Feed
Other: Tree/Shrub or Fruit Stakes, Ross Root Feeder Cartridges
Evergreens Higher in nitrogen for Water soluble: Plant-Prod Evergreen
for green growth. A soil Granular: Green Harvest Evergreen &Tree Food,
acidifier is beneficial. So-Green Evergreen, Smartcote Shrub & Evergreen Food
Other: Evergreen Tree Stakes, Ross Root Feeder Cartridges
Acidifier: Garden Sulphur, Aluminum Sulphate
Roses Need phosphorous for Water soluble: Miracle Gro, Plant-Prod Flowering
rooting & blooming. Liquid concentrate: Schultz Rose Food
Granular: So-Green Rose & Flower, Smartcote Rose Food,
Alaska MorBloom
 nutrients

NUTRIENTS
Plant Type Nutrients Needed Some Recommended Fertilizers

TREES & SHRUBS* (continued)

* If using Myke® Tree & shrub growth supplement (increases natural phosphorous uptake), use fertilizers with 15% or less phosphorous (5-15-5)
Transplanting High phosphorous; Water soluble: Plant-Prod 10-52-10
rooting stimulant Liquid concentrate: Plant Starter 5-15-5 with rooting stimulant
Granular: Root Grow, Bone Meal,
Smartcote Tree & Shrub Food
Winterizing No nitrogen after Aug. 1 A fertilizer with no nitrogen will strengthen plants & give roots
Less nitrogen slows top- a slight boost. Alaska MorBloom, So-Green Muriate of Potash
growth and helps plant
prepare for fall & winter.
LAWNS
Spring & Summer In spring and summer Liquid concentrate: CIL Golfgreen Liquid, Scotts Feed-n-Gro
higher nitrogen is required Granular: CIL Golfgreen, Scotts Turf Builder,
Myke Lawn Fertilizer
Winterizing Less nitrogen and more Granular: CIL Winterizer, Scotts Fall-Wintercare
potassium strengthens
grass plants for winter.
HOUSEPLANTS
Foliage Plants A balanced fertilizer Water soluble: Schultz All Purpose, Plant-Prod All Purpose
Liquid concentrate: Schultz All Purpose
Slow release: Jobe’s Houseplant or Fern & Ivy Spikes
Flowering A moderately high Water soluble: Plant-Prod Flowering
phosphorous level Liquid concentrate: Schultz All Purpose
to promote flowering Slow release: Jobe’s Flowering Plant Spikes, Myke Indoor Plant
African Violets Require phosphorous Liquid concentrate: Schultz African Violet
for bloom production
161
Orchids Water soluble: Schultz Orchid Food, Plant-Prod Orchid
Cactus Cacti need less nitrogen Liquid concentrate: Schultz Cactus Food
BIRDS

feeding & attracting birds

More people enjoy bird watching than any other hobby except
gardening. What a great combination; you can garden and
enjoy the beauty and wildness of nature up close at the same
time. Birds have four basic needs: food, water, protection from
predators, and a place to raise their young safely.
from both weather and predators.
Study what groundcovers, perennials, and annuals the birds
enjoy. Plant a sunflower and your children will enjoy the comical
activities of birds while they eat the seeds.

With water gardening becoming so popular you can be en-
tertained by your fine-feathered friends in the showpiece you
have created in your yard. The sound of gently moving water
is extremely appealing to birds. In fact bird banders often lure
them with dripping water. A birdbath is the easiest way to set
up a water source in the garden. For the winter months, when
water is not available, a bird bath heater is required, and ap-
preciated by the birds.
Plants are the most important element in the garden; to birds as
well as to you. No matter what size your landscape is, whether
formal or naturalistic in style, you can use plants to enhance its
attractiveness to birds. The presence of trees or shrubs near a
feeder is essential. Trees offer both food and protective cover
Establish a year round feeding program. Many people feed
only in the winter months, but warm months will bring a differ-
ent clientele to your feeders. Birds tend to scatter at nesting
time and become less social, but the presence of a convenient
food source can lure them to nest nearby. Try feeding different
seeds in scattered feeders, and you will attract a variety of birds.
Hummingbird feeders are easy to maintain, and a ready-made
mixture is available. Hairy and downy woodpeckers, chicka-
dees, and nuthatches enjoy suet in the winter months. Try
putting suet in a pinecone as it’s natural for these gregarious
birds, and they are quite entertaining. Save coconuts, and put
sunflower hearts in them. Hang from a tree and chickadees,
nuthatches, woodpeckers, and pine grosbeaks will always
come back for more.

Some of the trees and shrubs that attract birds are:

PLAN T ATTRACTS
BIRCH GOLDFINCHES, PINE SISKINS, CHICKADEES, AND JUNCOS

BLUEBERRY 34 SPECIES INCLUDING ROBINS, MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRDS, WAXWINGS

162
CHOKECHERRY 43 SPECIES INCLUDING: BLUEBIRDS, ROBINS, PHEASANTS, GROUSE, PARTRIDGES

COTONEASTER BROWN THRASHERS, ROBINS, WAXWINGS

CRABAPPLE NORTHERN FLICKERS, WHITE THROATED SPARROWS, WAXWINGS, AND ROBINS

CRANBERRY 7 SPECIES EAT THE FRUIT, CEDAR WAXWINGSS, MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRD, PHEASANTS

COLORADO SPRUCE EXCELLENT NESTING SITE FOR ROBINS, CHICKADEES, PINE SISKINS, BLUEJAYS,
AND PINE GROSBEAKS; ALL EAT ITS SEEDS.

DOGWOOD 36 SPECIES EAT FRUIT INCLUDING 6 SPECIES OF THRUSHES, NORTHERN

FLICKERS, HAIRY WOODPECKERS, SUMMER TANAGERS, EVENING GROSBEAKS,
AND PINE GROSBEAKS.

ELDERBERRY 33 SPECIES INCLUDING WOODPECKERS, BLUEBIRDS, AND ROBINS

HAWTHORN 18 SPECIES INCLUDING WAXWINGS

HONEYSUCKLE A FAVOURITE FOR OUR FRIENDS THE HUMMINGBIRDS

MOUNTAIN ASH 14 SPECIES INCLUDING WAXWINGS, BLUEBIRDS, PINE GROSBEAKS AND BLUE
JAYS.

NANKING CHERRY ROBINS, MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRDS, WAXWINGS, CHICKADEES AND NUTHATCHES

ROSES HUMMINGBIRDS AND 20 OTHER SPECIES OF BIRDS

 BIRDS
Try speciality seeds such as black oil sunflower, sunflower hearts, red ribbon tied on top, will attract the birds just as well.
niger seeds, cracked corn, and peanuts. You will attract more
colourful birds such as goldfinches, pine siskins, chickadees, blue NOTE: Change nectar every three to five days to prevent mold
jays, nuthatches, woodpeckers, pine grosbeaks, and red polls. and deadly fermentation. NEVER use honey as a sweetener.
Birdseeds that contain mostly millet will attract sparrows in great It readily grows mold that can injure hummingbird tongues. Do
numbers and scare the colourful songbirds. not put any kind of oil around feeding portals to deter bees;
you might contaminate the nectar. If bees or wasps become a
Come visit the garden sentre to see all the various types of feeders problem, try moving the feeder.
available. Start with one feeder away from the house, and gradually
add new styles closer to your windows for easier viewing. A set of
binoculars is a must for the bird lover. Eventually you will be able to
hand feed a cheery little bird like a chickadee. Save your eggshells
for when you rototill your vegetable garden, your soil will love it and
so will the birds.

Year-round Feeding Tips

Dried or fresh fruit and baked goods (bagels, hard rolls, pizza crusts)
are liked by many birds. Bird beaks and gullets cannot handle large
chunks, so break items into small pieces.

Sand or ground oyster shells are also welcomed to help their giz-
zards grind food.

The location of the food is also important. Do not put food ‘out in
the open’ away from protection. It makes the birds easy prey for
hawks and cats. The best spot is to put the feeder 5 to 10 feet from
a bush, shrub or tree. More than one feeder prevents one bird from
monopolizing the feeder.

A year round water supply is very beneficial. During winter water is

very hard to find and birds need a source.

Hummingbirds
If you provide hummingbird feeders, you will need “nectar.” To make 163
nectar, add one part sugar to four parts boiling water (boil the water
before measuring, because some water will be lost in the process.)
When the mixture is cool, it is ready for use. You can store extra sugar
water in your refrigerator for up to one week, but left longer it may
become moldy. Adding red food coloring to nectar is unnecessary
and possibly harmful to birds. Red portals on the feeder, or even a
Nests and eggs, clockwise from top right:
Boreal Chickadee; House Sparrow; European Starling;
NESTBOX DIMENSIONS FOR SMALL CAVITY NESTERS assemblage of Bluebird eggs showing colour and size variations;
(measurements in inches with millimetres in brackets) Mountain Bluebird; Tree Swallows; House Wren;
Black-capped Chickadee.
Species Entrance Hole Floor Box Depth
Bluebirds
Eastern 1 1/2 (38) 4 x 4 (101 x 101) 10 (254)
Mountain 1 9/16 (40) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254)
Western 1 9/16 (40) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254)

Chickadees 1 1/8 - 1 1/4 (29-32)

All Species 1 1/4 (32) 4 x 4 (101 x 101) 8 (203)

Finch
House 1 1/2 (38) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254)

Nuthatches
Both Species 1 1/2 (38) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254)

Swallows
Six Species 1 1/2 (38) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254)

Wren
House 1 - 1 1/4 (25-32) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254)
 pests & problems ipm: a practical
PESTS AND PROBLEMS
Many people are concerned about excess chemicals and pes-
ticides in their immediate environment, made obvious by the
increase in popularity of organically grown foods. Following an
integrated pest management method or IPM at home will greatly
reduce the amount of chemicals you need in your garden. For a
more environmentally sound, organic approach IPM is the way
to go.
Soil
As always, start with good soil. If you have not done so already
incorporate up to one-third organic material like peat moss or
compost. If you are applying aged manure on the vegetable gar-
den it is best to do so in the fall, allowing it to break down over
the winter and significantly reducing or eliminating any bacteria
present in the manure. It also helps to add zeolite at rate of 20
kg per 10m2 or per 3533 ft2.
Plant Resistant Varieties
An easy way to avoid disease and fungus problems is to purchase
resistant varieties. Many vegetables, flowers, bulbs, shrubs, and
trees have been bred to resist certain problems. For example,
some tomatoes are bred to resist fusarium wilt and verticillium
wilt. The letters ‘VFN’ on their tags identifies these plants.
Rotate Crops
Of particular importance in reducing plant problems and sub-
sequently reducing chemical use is crop rotation. If you grow a
plant or a plant in the same family in the same area year after
year disease-causing organisms can build up. In addition certain
insects may lay their eggs in the fall in anticipation of a spring
food source. It is best to cycle through three types of plants over
164 three years. This will reduce the build up of disease organisms
in the soil that affect specific plants. A sample crop rotation at
one location would be tomatoes, peppers, and/or potatoes the
first year, cauliflower and/or cabbage the next, and beans and/or
peas the third year. This is only an example but be sure to check
what family your plants belong to before rotation. Tomatoes and
potatoes are in the same family (Solanacea) and alternating these
crops does not help to prevent disease though it can help to a
lesser degree with insect pests.
Controlling Pests
Check you plants once or twice a week. It is much easier to take
care of a pest problem when it first appears. If you find any pest
insects (remember not all insects are pests) or a fungus problem
remove them by hand if possible. Pull weeds to reduce competi-
tion, increase airflow, and remove host plants for some insect
pests. Handpick any large insects like caterpillars if they are in
lower numbers. For small insects like aphids or spider mites a
hard stream of water can dislodge them from the plant, knock-
ing them to the ground and making them easy prey for ground
beetles, centipedes, birds, or other predators. If this does not
work try to use chemicals with a low toxicity/ low environmental
impact. Though non-toxic or of low toxicity to ourselves, sprays
like insecticidal soap or pyrethrins are extremely effective against
soft-bodied insects. There are also fungicides like sulfur dust that
are much safer to use than some chemicals. Do not forget that
even though these pesticides are more environmentally friendly
than others they are still pesticides; read and follow all label
directions carefully. If all the above options fail then you can
turn to synthetic pesticides and/or fungicides knowing you did your
best to try other methods. Take care when using pesticides in the
vegetable garden. Follow all instructions carefully – check how
long you have to wait until they are safe to consume and, most
importantly, if the plant you want to treat is not listed on the
pesticide then that pesticide is not for that plant. You could
damage the plant or harm yourself or both.
Biological Controls
It is important to recognize that not all insects are pests. Some
are very helpful. Encourage ladybugs and their larvae to feed on
aphid-infested plants. They can consume up to 300 aphids each
per day. Lacewings and syrphid fly larvae are also excellent aphid
controls. See our beneficial insect section for further information
on the ‘good guys’ of the insect world. Wholesale spraying of
strong chemicals will eliminate the beneficial insects, sometimes
setting you up for a worse infestation in the long run since the
natural control insects (present usually in much smaller numbers
than the pest) have been destroyed in the area.
Take Good Care of Your Plants
A healthy plant almost always has an easier time resisting pests
than an unhealthy one. Generally we keep our vegetable garden
well-watered, free of weeds, and fertilized. The same holds true
usually for the flower gardens be they perennial or annual. We
tend to neglect, however, our trees and shrubs, both of which, but
trees are commonly underwatered and undernourished. A good
example of this in Calgary is the birch. Birch trees need a lot of
water and are often quite dry. This reduces their resistance to
the leaf miner, which can do tremendous damage to the leaves.
In addition, a weak birch will experience major winter dieback.
Follow watering directions set out in our xeriscaping section and
fertilize either with spikes or by hand watering 2-3 time per season
but no fertilizing later than the last weekend of July. As a result,
your birch will be stronger and more able to resist attack by leaf
miner. The same basic principles apply for all trees and shrubs;
a healthy plant tends to have less pest problems.
Accept a Few Insects
If all the above directions are followed and your plant still has a
few pest insects it is best to simply accept it. This is especially
true of trees and shrubs. A tree is an ecosystem unto itself. It has
evolved to support minor pest populations. Trees, depending on
the variety, can even handle one or two years of total defoliation
by insects before running into major trouble. If it is not bothering
the plant, do not let it bother you. Granted, in the case of vegeta-
bles and prize perennials it can be frustrating and may warrant
control methods. However, if you find that a particular type of
plant under good growing conditions still seems to attract aphids
to your yard, it may be best to simply remove it for the sake of
your other plants. Integrated pest management (IPM) is basically
common-sense pest control that aims to keep pest populations at
levels below which they cause significant damage. IPM controls
pests and problems through a combination of biological, cultural
and chemical methods. However, a treatment is used only when
it is necessary. Instead of completely eliminating pests, they are
kept at non-damaging levels. Both the gardener and the garden
benefit from a balanced IPM approach. Reduced chemical use
reduces damage to non-target organisms like beneficial insects
and plants, protects the broader environment and decreases
threats to human health. It also prevents pesticide-resistant pests
from developing and reduces pesticide costs. In the long term it
is the most practical and viable pest control solution.

PESTS AND PROBLEMS

One of the most important ways to prevent pest infestations in the garden is by
providing good growing conditions that encourage strong, healthy plants. A pest
A Framework for Practical IPM
infestation can be a sign that cultural conditions need to be corrected. Improper
light, poor soil drainage, overpruning, too much or poorly timed watering or 1. Preparation
fertilizing. Any of these can create a weakened plant that becomes susceptible - Be aware of potential problems
to insects or disease. - Try to anticipate and avoid costly
Correct identification of pests, their food source and the damage they do is remedies.
important. In other words, know your enemy. Their are three basic forms of insect - Be aware of what control tactics are
pests: generalist, specialist, and opportunist. Generalist pests like some species available if, despite your best efforts,
of aphid, attack a wide range of plants. In this case it is wise to control the insect. pests get out of control.
Specialist pests like birch leaf- miner attack only specific plants. In this situation
biological control, plant resistance and/or proper care can be more helpful than 2. Prevention
chemicals. Opportunistic pests target weaker plants. Again, attention to the plant - Use practices that contribute to protec-
and its required growing conditions will help immeasurably. tion for the long term such as:
After the plants and/or the pests have been identified the next step is to monitor - Biological controls
the situation, know the ideal healthy state of the plant, then you can compare - Crop rotation (breaks pest cycles)
how well the plant is faring. Always remember: most plants can withstand more - Host plant resistance (choose varie-
damage than you would expect. However, if an ornamental plant becomes too ties that have proven resistance to
unattractive, the gardener must decide whether or not it needs treatment. common pests)
When it comes to controlling the pest there are two basic approaches: offensive - Sanitation: remove and destroy
or defensive. The offensive approach involves taking charge of the situation infected debris and other sources of
- making sure plants have adequate light, water, nutrients and air circulation, infestation.
planting resistant varieties and doing thorough clean-up in the spring and fall. The - Choose the proper plant for the
defensive approach involves dealing with the pest after it has arrived. Increasing proper site.
plant health could be beneficial as could biological control (ie. introducing - Observation: collect and document
predators), removing the pest (by hand or pruning of infested areas), or using information to help make timely
chemicals. When using chemicals always read the product label carefully, decisions.
making sure you understand the plant and the pest as well as the required safety
precautions. As an example, in the case of a leaf-hopper infestation on virginia 3. Analysis
creeper, chemical sprays may be a poor defensive approach. Leaf-hoppers are - After observation indicates what pests
highly mobile and can easlily escape most of the chemical spray. Virginia creeper you have, you must now decide if
are very sensitive to chemicals and can burn easily. A better control method is action is warranted.
to remove all leaf litter in the fall. This offensive method removes the protection -Determine whether the benefits derived
that leaf-hoppers need. When adults move down to the base of the plant to are justified by the costs incurred
overwinter, they will have no shelter from the cold and the pest population will (monetary and human health costs).
- If action is called for then choose the 165
be greatly reduced.
In summary, using integrated pest management (IPM) perspectives and principles actions that will optimize the cost and
is the most reasonable and effective way to ensure balanced, healthy and effect while minimizing adverse effects.
beautiful gardens as well a safer environment in which to live and enjoy them. eg. Cultural - Crop rotation
Mechanical - Cultivation
Biological - Release of beneficials
Chemical - Herbicides, insecticide,
fungicides

4. Implementation
- If control is justified use the proper
procedures at the proper time, eg.
- Weed Cultivation: most effective
before seedlings are even visible.
- Biological controls: when releasing
beneficial insects be aware of
temperatures and life cycles.

5. Evaluation
- Short Term: did we make the right
decision; did we get the desired
results?
- Long Term: keeping accurate records
will help us in the future (next growing
season). We will continue taking
beneficial actions and discontinue
practices that are costly and harmful.
 pests & problemsbeneficial insects
PESTS AND PROBLEMS

Not all insects in our yards are harmful. Don't jump to the hasty
conclusion that an insect is a pest unless you have positively
identified it, or have seen it actually eating the plant. Many
insects are neutral; they do not harm plants. Some insects are
beneficial; they prey on the harmful insects that do damage our
plants.
The descriptions of some common pests are described on the
next couple of pages of our guide, which will help to identify
harmful insects. If you are unsure, the knowledgeable staff at
Golden Acre may be able to offer assistance.
Listed below are the more common beneficial insects in our
area.
Centipedes:
This fast-moving arthropod is another of the important ground-
dwelling predators. Centipedes are totally carnivorous and
never damage plants. Their close relatives millipedes may
do damage to soft-stemmed plants but these mainly feed on
decaying plant and animal matter. The easiest way to tell these
two creatures apart is the number of legs and how fast they
move. A centipede has fewer legs and moves much faster
than a millipede. Centipedes will eat nearly anything living they
encounter including slugs and other centipedes.
Ground Beetles:
Ground beetles or Carabids are a very common predator of
crawling pests like slugs, cutworms, ants, aphids, etc. Most
species are black but some have bright metallic green or
reddish shells. The larval form also feeds on pests but they are
not as mobile as the adults. As a result, they spend most of this
stage of their life in the soil or grass and are rarely ever seen.
Honeybees & Other Pollinators:
Although they do not destroy pests, honey bees are considered
166 beneficial because they pollinate plants. Leafcutter bees,
bumblebees, carpenter bees, butterflies, and moths also visit
flowers to feed on nectar and pollen. These insects and other
pollinators are vital for a plant species to survive. Without them
many plants would be unable to produce fruit or seeds.
Ladybugs:
Both the larval and adult stages eat insect eggs and soft bodied
insects, particularly aphids. We are all familiar with the black-
spotted red ladybug beetle, but should learn to recognize the
ladybug larvae, which eats more pests than the adults. They
are shaped like tiny alligators; the most common types are dark
blue with orange or yellow spots.
Predator Nematodes:
Predator nematodes eat insects such as grubs, cut worms,
and larvae of the carrot rust fly, onion maggot and the crane fly
(leather jacker). Nematodes only need to be applied once per
season and require a soil tempurature of 10 degrees C. They
will not overwinter.
Spiders & Harvestmen:
Spiders are voracious predators, feeding on many species of
insects including aphids, flies, leafhoppers, mosquitoes and
other pest insects. They do not damage our plants or crops
and should therefore be left in peace. In fact, these arthropods
should be actively encouraged to live in your garden as they do
nothing but good.
The daddy longlegs or 'harvestman' (not actually a true spider,
though often mistaken for one) performs a similar role as
spiders. Its main prey consists of ground and plant pests like
aphids and small slugs.
Others:
Many other insects commonly found in Alberta are beneficial
as pollinators, predators, or parasites. Butterflies and moths
are, of course, pollinators but so are many species of flies,
small beetles, and wasps. Other predators include robber flies,
aphid midge larvae (tiny bright orange caterpillar-like animals),
predatory true bugs like assassin or ambush bugs, and wasps
(including yellow jackets which are excellent predators) and
even some mites and thrips. Parasites include many species of
wasps which lay their eggs either on or in the pest insect, and
some species of mites.

Hover/Syrphid Flies:
In both larval and adult form this insect is extremely beneficial
though for different reasons. The larva is an important aphid
predator. It is hard to identify because it is similar in appearance
to a caterpillar differing only by a narrow, eye-less head
and faintly translucent skin. As well, these insects, unlike
caterpillars, will be found amongst aphid colonies. The adult
form mimics bee and wasp coloring for protection but, as it is
a true fly, is unable to sting. These flies merely feed off nectar,
pollinating flowers in the process.

Hypoaspis Mites:
Sold in the form HYPE-O, these beneficial mites feed on fungus
gnats, thrips, bulb mites, weevil eggs and spring tails. They live
in the soil as long as they have a food source and up to 30 days
without food. However if plants continue to be overwatered they
will drown.

Lacewings:
Adult lacewings are one of our most beautiful and beneficial
insects. They can reach lengths up to 3/4" long, & have long
green or occasionally brown lacy wings. The larval form is
very similar to ladybug larvae. Both adults and larvae feed on
aphids, various insect eggs, mealy bugs and scale.
pests & problemspests

PESTS AND PROBLEMS

Houseplant Pests a speckled leaf appearance. Spider mites
Aphids are small insects, usually green or are actually spiders, not true insects, so
Pests are black, that suck the plant juices out of new a specific mite killer is effective at killing
living organisms growth or flower buds. Sprays containing them. Spray the undersides of the leaves
that disturb and botanical insecticides such as pyrethrin with insecticide twice a week for a month .
harm the natural Mist the plant with a strong spray of water
and desirable before spraying as spider mites do not like
growth of plants. moist, humid conditions.
Insect pests in-
clude aphids and Fungus Gnats
scale. Diseases Often mistaken for fruit flies, a fungus
gnat infestation will most often be noticed
are caused by in their adult form as tiny black
various micro- flies hovering near overwatered
scopic organisms plants. The adult flies lay
such as fungi, their eggs in the soil which
bacteria, and eventually hatch into
viruses. tiny white maggots.
These maggots can
HOUSE PLANT only damage healthy
roots if they are
INSECTS or insecticidal soap will kill aphids on present in massive
If you think an insect contact. Repeated spray applications are numbers. Their main
may be causing a necessary. Plants infested with aphids will food source consists
problem on your house have to be watched closely for some time. of dead, rotting roots and other decaying
plants ask for help. Be If aphids are only a problem on the flower material like peat moss or fungus in the
sure you identify the buds, which often happens on hibiscus, soil. Fungus gnats rarely kill plants. In fact,
insect before you use remove all buds at the same time to the plants they are infesting are most likely
any chemical sprays. It eliminate the aphids. dying from overwatering or poor drainage.
As a result of the excess moisture, the fine
may not be an insect at
Mealy Bugs are small, flat grayish-white absorbent roots decay, supplying the gnat
all: fungal infections are insects that form clumps of damp wool-like larvae with a source of food. To eliminate
often mistaken as insect cocoons. Mealy bugs are most often found these pests water less if possible. Allow
damage. Insecticides are in crotches where leaves join stems or the top inch or so of soil to dry out as this
ineffective in controlling where stems meet. These insects can be is where the majority of larvae live. If this 167
fungal related problems. killed on contact with a botanical insecticide is ineffective, apply rotenone every few
Cultural errors, watering such as pyrethrin or insecticidal soap. Even weeks to eliminate the population over time.
too often or not enough, with this treatment, plants will have to be Another method is to introduce Hypoaspis
or inappropriate lighting, watched very carefully for several months. mites which attack
could be the reason your Rather than spraying the whole plant only fungus gnats - See
spray specific insects or cocoons or dab the Beneficial
plants are not doing
them with a cotton swab that has been Insects page.
well. These problems dipped in a 50% water/rubbing alcohol
can only be corrected solution Mealy bugs can attack almost any
by changing cultural plant but prefer succulent plants like hoya, Scale can look
practices. If an insect jade, and cacti. like drops of dried
is indeed the culprit, glue on stems or
identifying the type of Spider Mites are almost too small to leaves. Plants
insect ensures that the see. Plants infested with spider mites will with scale are
best treatment, chemical demonstrate tiny white specks on the best destroyed
or other, is used. The underside of their leaves, especially near as chemical
leaf mid-ribs. Later, fine silky webs are treatments are
following descriptions
formed which are most obvious if plants only a temporary
will give you some measure. Scale
spreads to other
plants if the
source is not eliminated. Scale is often
ALWAYS READ mis-identified as leaf spot, sun burn, or a
THE PESTICIDE LA- fungal infection. Bring a leaf in for positive
identification under a magnifying glass.
BEL FIRST BEFORE
APPLYING ANY Thrips are tiny dark, slender active, flying
CHEMICAL! insects that swarm when disturbed. They
suck sap from the leaves, causing silvery
are misted with water. Spider mites feed by white streaking or blotching. Thrips are
sucking sap from the plant tissue causing chemically controlled by Trounce or End-All.
 White Flies are tiny white, moth-like, flying insects which Cutworms are green
swarm into white clouds when plant leaves are disturbed. caterpillars with
PESTS AND PROBLEMS
They suck sap from primarily the undersides of leaves, black heads. These
causing them to discolor caterpillars cut beans,
to yellow and then to die. peas, and many other
Whiteflies secrete honeydew tender young plants off
which favors dark fungal at ground level. When
growth. Whiteflies overwinter touched, cutworms will
only indoors in houses, but always curl into a tight
in summer infest outdoor ball. Control cutworms
annuals and perennials. They by applying Rotenone to
are controlled chemically by the soil prior to planting
pyrethrins. ornamental flowers. BTK
may be effective when
Garden Insect Pests they are small. Other
Ants do not eat plants or kill them directly. There are 8800 controls like placing
species worldwide, with 580 in North America and 100 barriers around the
species in Canada alone. These insects live in underground young seedlings can also work.
nests or in large soil mounds. As these mounds are pushed
up plant roots are damaged. The unsightly mounds can Flea Beatles are small shiny black or dark red beetles
smother turf or greatly reduce the vitality of vegetables, which attack almost any
annuals, perennials, or even trees and shrubs. Ants are vegetable crop. They leave
neither beneficial nor harmful to peonies. Water your lawn many small pinholes in the
thoroughly after each treatment. Cultural controls such leaves. Flea beetles jump
as digging up the nest or drowning can be very effective. when disturbed. Control flea
Please see Golden Acre staff for chemical treatments. beetles with applications of
Rotenone, insecticidal soap,
Aphids are small green, gray, red or black insects with or Trounce. Spray flea beetle
or without wings that attack almost any type of plant by infested plants twice weekly
sucking sap from leave or stems. The damage caused by until the insects are under
aphids appears as stunted and curled new growth and control.
is usually associated with the presence of a sticky shiny
substance called honeydew. Aphids commonly attack
honeysuckle, dogwood, mayday, elm, and apple trees. A Maggots are small white
sooty black mold often develops on plant tissue coated worm-like insects that attack
with honeydew. Control aphids with foliar applications of vegetable crops such as cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli,
Ambush, insecticidal soap, or Trounce. A steady spray of brussels sprouts, radishes, carrots and onions. Prevention
water from the garden hose can dislodge the insects. is the best cure for maggots.

Cabbage Worms are green caterpillars which chew holes
168 in the leaves of cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, and brussels
sprouts (cole crops). Control cabbage worms with repeated
applications of Rotenone or BTK. Row covers stop
butterflies from laying eggs on plants.
Caterpillars
This broad family of insects appear in most any color
from yellow to black. Caterpillars cause damage to
many different plants by actually
chewing away large sections
of leaf tissue. Most caterpillars
are somewhat particular which
type of plants they will feed on.
Control caterpillars on food crops
with pyrethrins or Rotenone
dust. Contact chemicals such as
Ambush will eliminate caterpillars
from feeding on ornamental plants.
Green leaf rollers are caterpillars
that roll themselves in leaves and
webbing. Leaf roller caterpillars can
not be contacted with chemicals.
Caterpillars are best controlled by
manual removal or through BTK
when they are very small.
Slugs (shell-less snails), are usually dark brown slimy
creatures that attack almost any vegetation. Place Safer's
Slug and Snail Bait (a new product consisting of ferric
phosphate and is perfectly safe for humans and animals)
in a cool moist place where slugs hide during the day.
These spots can be located by
following, early in the morning,
the slimy trails that slugs leave
as they move. Keep soil free of
mulch and dead plant material
as these are ideal places for
slugs to hide. Water in the
morning, not in the evening,
because they move less easily
on dry soil. Cover soil surface with sharp sand to prevent
slugs from moving around on soil surface.
Spider Mites are minute sap sucking pests that cause
plant foliage to yellow, brown, and eventually dry up and
drop. They are common on almost every type of plant
including house plants (see House Plant Pests), deciduous
and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials, and annuals.
Damage appears as spotted leaves or needles and dead
patches in spruce or pyramidal junipers. A fine webbing is
usually present which is often noticed after a rain. Spider
mites are more common during hot dry weather than during
cool damp weather. Control spider mite infestations on
outdoor ornamentals with two applications, about a week
apart, of Ambush. By hosing spider mite infested trees
down once a week you can provide some natural control
because they can not fly and may not climb back up into the
tree.
Deciduous Pests shrub. Earlier infestations of pear slug can be effectively
Birch Leaf Miner controlled with spray applications of Ambush/permethrin.

PESTS AND PROBLEMS

The larvae of these insects tunnel or mine into the leaf
tissue creating unsightly brown patches on the leaves. Ash Bark Beetles have recently become a major problem
These areas can be pulled apart to reveal tiny larvae on green, black, and Manchurian ash trees. Mountain
between the leaf layers. When damage is noticed, contact ash, which are in the rose family, are unaffected by these
insecticides are not effective insects. Trees infected with the larvae of ash bark beetles
since larvae are safely hidden will show signs of wilted leaves and later dead branches
GARDEN within the leaf tissue. Systemic will be evident throughout the crown area. Where dead and
PESTS: pesticides were effective but are live branches meet you will see circular rings of tiny holes.
no longer available. Try to deal Cut open the bark to reveal tunnels, called galleries, that
Despite with the adult females as they restrict sap flow and disrupt plant growth beyond these
your best lay eggs. Spray the foliage with rings.
Ambush, a synthetic pyrethroid,
efforts some when the leaves are fully opened Control: As soon as you notice these rings of beetle
plants may and repeat in mid-June and again entry holes, prune damaged branches back beyond the
in early July. Remember, birch damaged area; make cuts just above the nearest healthy
become and other trees under drought branch or leaf cluster. The damaged branch portions that
infested by stress are prone to insect attack. have been removed should be sealed with plastic bags to
Keep your birch deeply watered prevent the emergence of the beetles and their re-entry
either insects out to into other ash trees. If beetle infested trees are not pruned
or diseases and the beetles will emerge from the tunnels in late July to mid
during the beyond August. From here they travel down tree trunks and burrow
the into the bark close to tree bases. There are no available
course of dripline. systemics and foliar sprays are not effective.
a growing If
possible, Evergreen Pests
season. The also Spruce Sawfly Larvae are small green orange-headed
degree of mulch caterpillars that feed on young spruce or larch needles.
this They are similar in color and size as a spruce needle and
the damage area to as a result are difficult to see. Ends of branches with new
caused by conserve needles missing indicates insects are present. Check your
soil spruce trees regularly from June to July. Spruce sawfly
these infes- moisture. larvae are best
tations rang- controlled with a
es from mild Cottony Ash Psyllid contact insecticide
The nymph stage of this insect such as Ambush.
symptoms to pierce leaf tissue, feed on plant Spray infested
the death of juices and inject a toxin causing spruce trees when
severely curled or "cauliflowered" the caterpillars
a plant or a leaves and leaf drop. It is a first appear and, if 169
whole crop new insect to our area which necessary, again in
attacks black and Manchurian 10-14 days or after
of plants. ash trees. During summer, the a rain if more larvae
Regardless feeding nymphs are covered in are present.
of the sever- "cotton" and enclosed in the leaf.
Spraying has little effect at this Cooley Spruce
ity garden time, therefore it is best to spray Gall Aphids are little white fluffy aphids that lay eggs in
plant pest the newly-hatched nymphs with the new growth of young spruce trees. The larva forms
Trounce (pyrethrin; insecticidal a green gall, a swelling on the end of the branch, which
damage is soap) just when leaf buds start later turns purple and finally
discouraging. to open, usually in late May or brown after the eggs have
early June. Spraying again about hatched. Brown galls no longer
The follow- one month later is less effective contain the insect that created
ing are some but may kill some of the second them months earlier; they can
generation nymphs as they hatch be removed if you find them
cultural rules in late July/early August. disfiguring. Once the gall has
which will formed spraying is useless. If
help to di- Pear Slugs are the larvae of a you can, pick the green galls off
sawfly species and appear as to reduce the number of aphids
minish these small dark slugs on the surface that hatch. Insecticidal spraying
problems: of plant leaves. Pear slugs is generally not recommended
skeletonize leaves as they scrape for control of this insect.
away upper leaf surfaces. They
1.Keep are common on Cotoneaster White Pine Weevil on Spruce
hedges, and Hawthorns. There Large white larvae inside the
gardens and are generally two generations of leaders of spruce and pine
greenhouses pear slugs during the growing trees eat the soft tissue. They
season. The second generation cause leaders to curl over and
free of dead which appears in August does the the needles on the leader to
or diseased most leaf damage. Since these die in the late summer. In the fall, on damaged trees, you
insects attack plants in will be able to see telltale holes in the leader where adult
the season they don’t do weevils have emerged. Once a leader has curled over no
any measurable harm to the control is possible. Cut the leader off just above the next
 set of healthy branches. To form a new leader, tie a sturdy them and use gypsum to break down clumps and mounds
PESTS AND PROBLEMS
stick, that extends beyond the cut, to the trunk of the tree. left by dew worms.
Bend one of the top healthy branches up to it and tie it to
the stick. If other healthy branches try to compete, they Sod Webworms are gray caterpillars that attack the root
should be removed. After one year previously damaged system of lawns. Circular areas of lawn will die. If the dead
trees will have new leaders. grass areas are pulled on the grass comes out of the soil
Insecticidal spraying is easily since the roots have been damaged. A fine white
generally not recommended web can be seen just below ground level. Diazinon is an
for control of this insect. effective control for sod webworm. Always read and follow
instructions on the container label.
Pine Needle Scales are
small white oblong-shaped Plant Diseases
crusts on pine needles. Plant diseases fall into two major groups: parasitic and
These scales can be scraped physiological. Parasitic diseases are caused by fungi,
off with a fingernail. Insects bacteria, viruses and other microscopic organisms.
under these scales suck sap Physiological disorders are caused by unfavorable
from needles and eventually environmental conditions, chemical injury, improper
give pine trees a pale sickly fertilizing or other environmentally related situations. Some
appearance. Most insecticides of the most common plant diseases are listed below.
won’t penetrate scale,
however horticultural oil may Fire Blight is probably the most destructive disease of
help. Various types of scale trees and shrubs in the rose family in North America. Fire
attack spruce and juniper as blight occurs sporadically and unpredictably. A severe
well as pine. outbreak can seriously damage or kill mature pear, apple,
or crabapple trees in one season. Mountain ash is equally
Spruce Budworms are seen occasionally but are less vulnerable to the disease and may suffer the same fate.
common than sawfly larvae in Other ornamentals such as
western Canada. The green hawthorn, plum, chokecherry,
budworm larvae are larger than saskatoon, cotoneaster, and
spruce sawfly larvae. Budworm spirea may also be affected.
larvae also attack new spruce The Cause: Fire blight is caused
needles, but rather than leaving by a bacterium (scientific
the ends of the branches name Erwinia amylovora)
bare, they form clusters of silk that enters the tree through
webbing, bud scales, and debris
around the end of the branch.
Ambush is an effective budworm
control if sprayed when larvae
170 are present.

Lawn Pests
Read the label directions to find
out which chemical will work best
against the particular
insect you are dealing
-Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (1840)
“Why, Sir, they have as good a right to live as we; they are our

with. Some of the

most common lawn
insects are listed
below:

Dew Worms create

small mounds in
your lawn, making it blossoms, leaves, or stem
uneven. Some dew wounds. Usually the disease
worms are beneficial is spread by bacteria that
as they prevent over winter in main stem and
the ground from branch cankers or in infected
compacting. If you are twigs. In the spring, just as
overrun with them, the blossoms begin to open, these cankers and infected
apply carbolic soap twigs exude drops of bacterial ooze that are spread by rain,
at the recommended heavy dew, or wind-blown mist to the blossoms and young
rate (mixing it with leaves. Fire blight may also be spread by pollinating insects
water), using a watering can to prevent chemical drift. such as bees, by sucking, chewing, or boring insects, or by
Water your lawn and surrounding area thoroughly for unsanitary pruning tools. Favorable conditions for disease
1-2 hours in the early evening, then apply the chemical. entry and development include warm temperatures and
Remember to read the directions first before you apply the high humidity. In the spring infected blossoms suddenly wilt
fellow worms."

carbolic soap. Remove any dead worms seen, as they
are poisonous to birds. Repeat this treatment several
times at 2 week intervals and have your neighbors treat
their lawns as well to lessen the chance of recurrence. This
is only a temporary solution; the best method is to live with
and turn brown. Later, twigs and leaves also turn brown,
appearing to be scorched by fire; hence the common name.
Affected leaves usually remain on trees well into the winter.
The branch ends curl over like a shepherd’s crook. Young
infected fruits become watery or oily in appearance and
exude droplets of clear or amber-colored ooze. This fruit
later become leathery and turns dark brown. The shrivelled
fruit usually remains attached to the tree. Cankers, which
are sunken woody areas, also form on affected branches
and exude this sticky ooze.
Prevention: Preventative treatment of fruit trees and
mountain ash should be undertaken as a matter of course if
fire blight is present in your neighborhood. Trees that have
previously been infected and pruned of their diseased parts
should also be treated to prevent new infections.
Blossoms are the part of the plant most susceptible to
fireblight. Blossoms can be protected by using a Copper
Spray solution following label instructions. Apply this
solution with a hose-end sprayer during the early
stages of blossom, when 10% of the blossoms have
opened. Repeat these spray applications at 4 to 5 day
intervals until the late stages of blossom, when only
a few blossoms remain on the tree. This will require at
least three applications. These applications can only be
made when the air temperature is around 18 C (65 F.) The
best control of fire blight comes from spraying the entire
tree at regular intervals through the summer. Copper sprays
may be used until 1 day before picking the fruit. Additional
preventative measures that should be taken to eliminate fire
blight are to:
1. Avoid the use of high nitrogen
fertilizers that
promote succulent growth readily
susceptible to fire blight.
2. Remove root suckers from the
base of the trees for the
same reason.
3. Control leaf hoppers, aphids
and other leaf-feeding insects
that may spread fire blight.
Control: There is no chemical that can cure fire blight. The
only effective method of controlling fire blight is to prune off
diseased twigs and branches. During the dormant season,
late fall to early spring, prune out and destroy all diseased
twigs and branches. Cut 30 cm. (1 ft.) below the diseased
area since bacterial infections such as fire blight can extend
beyond the visibly blighted area. (All pruning wounds can
be disinfected with a copper spray solution.) During the
growing season prune and burn any infected twigs or
branches or seal in garbage bags for disposal. Once again,
cut 30 cm. (1 ft.) below the infected area. Make regular
inspections during the summer to detect and remove new
infections but avoid pruning excessively during the growing
season. Trees that are severely infected, with large cankers
in the trunk, should be removed and destroyed immediately.
WARNING: Healthy plant tissue can be infected by
bacteria-coated pruning tools. After each cut dip your
pruning tools in a disinfectant solution of Lysol at 50 ml/L
(4tbs/qt) or household bleach at 100 ml/L(8 tbs/qt) to
prevent this.
Dutch Elm Disease
Dutch elm disease
is a fungi that infects
elm trees and inhibits
the flow of nutrients
throughout the tree.
The name Dutch Elm
Disease originates
from Holland, where
the fungi was first
identified. The disease
was accidentally
introduced to North
America from Europe in 1930. Since then, DED has
spread throughout the continent via the transportation of
elm firewood within which the smaller European elm bark
PESTS AND PROBLEMS
beetle breeds. It is believed that this elm bark beetle was
introduced to Calgary in this way.
Prevention: To keep DED out of Calgary, the City is
monitoring its elms to detect DED infection. Part of this
monitoring includes completion of an elm inventory. By
knowing where its elms are, Parks & Recreation staff may
best care for the City's elms. During summer months, watch
for signs and symptoms of DED. An elm with DED displays
the following signs; wilting, yellowing leaves and leaves
turning brown and falling before onset of fall. If you see a
tree displaying such symptoms, contact the DED hotline @
221-4686. Secondly, be sure to maintain the health of your
elm through proper care.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew fungus affects all types of plants including
lawns, perennials, annuals, and shrubs. It is particularly
prevalent on roses and
currants. This disease starts
on young leaves as raised
blister-like areas that are
soon covered with grayish-
white powder or mold. The
fungus growth develops on
the surface of leaves, stems,
buds, and flowers. Symptoms
of injury are: stunting,
distortion of leaves and buds,
yellowing of leaves, premature
leaf fall, and general decline in
plant growth.
Control: Powdery mildew can
be prevented: by planting
mildew-tolerant or resistant varieties wherever possible; by
not planting susceptible plants in damp shady locations;
by spacing plants out to avoid overcrowding and allow 171
air circulation; and by pruning off affected young growth
and discarding it. Water plants in the morning so that leaf
moisture has a chance to evaporate during the day. In
serious cases, apply protective fungicides like Garden
Sulphur at the first sign of infection.
Leaf Yellowing
Trees & shrubs often appear to be declining in vigor by
showing signs of leaf yellowing in summer. Pale yellow
leaves with dry crisp edges that drop prematurely can be
equated to a number of causes: leaf scorch resulting from
rapid leaf moisture loss during dry conditions, nitrogen
deficiency resulting from lack of fertilizer, toxicity resulting
from the use of concentrated insecticides during hot dry
weather, or from herbicides or soil sterilants used too
closely to ornamental trees and shrubs. However, the most
common cause of leaf yellowing is iron or manganese
deficiency. Leaf veins stay green while inter-veinal spaces
become pale yellow. Young leaves are affected first, but
this condition, known as iron chlorosis advances throughout
entire plants if not corrected. Iron chlorosis can be
corrected by adding iron or acidifying soil conditioners such
as peat moss, aluminum sulfate or sulfur to the soil. The
problem is that iron, although present, is not available in
soil conditions common to the prairies because our soil and
water are alkaline.
Potato Late Blight
Late blight caused by a fungus (Phytophthora infestans)
is the most destructive disease of potatoes worldwide.
This disease is responsible for causing the infamous Irish
potato famine in the mid-nineteenth century. Late blight has
reappeared as a major disease in many potato growing
 areas of the world,
PESTS AND PROBLEMS
mainly because Lawn Diseases
fungicide-resistant
strains of the fungus Snow Mold
have developed. The incidence and severity of damage caused by snow
The disease affects mold depends largely on the nature of the fall weather.
potatoes and tomatoes If the ground is frozen solid before a permanent snow
equally severely. In cover, damage from snow mold may be minimal. If
Alberta, the disease however, a heavy snowfall is experienced before freeze-
has been gaining up, considerable lawn injury can occur. Snow Mold is a
in importance for common fungi in southern Alberta.
the last few years.
Its resurgence is of Control: Apply a suitable fungicide to the grass just before
concern to potato the arrival of the permanent snow cover, in approximately
growers. Late blight autumn. Copper spray or Garden Sulphur can be used
is a "community to control snow mold. Remember to read the directions
disease"; if any first before you use either. Control snow mold naturally
diseased plant exists by reducing watering in the late summer to allow your turf
in an area, there to harden-off, by raking up leaves in the fall, by breaking
is a good chance up piles of snow to speed their melting in the spring, and
that the disease will by picking up grass clippings and/or dethatching the turf
spread to neighboring regularly.
fields. A hobby home
garden (of potatoes and tomatoes) with infected plants Fairy Ring
could threaten a nearby commercial field. It is, thus, very This fungus spreads easily and is therefore very difficult
important that the community as a whole keeps their plants to control. Dark green circles appear in the lawn. As these
free from late blight. rings enlarge the center area of lawn dies. The fungus
forms a thick impervious mat under the soil surface,
Prevention: Since the disease can survive in infected preventing water, air and nutrients from reaching the grass
tubers, DO NOT use your own potato tubers if they show roots.
any kind of rotting. As a precaution, ALWAYS buy "certified
seed potatoes" & tomato seedlings from reputable sources.

Control: The disease can be effectively controlled with the

spray of an appropriate, registered fungicide. Consult your
local greenhouse garden centre or other such sources for
the fungicides and their use. Always follow the directions on
the fungicide label.
172 Black Knot
Black knot is a common
fungus problem on many
flowering Prunus species
such as cherries or plums.
It affects only woody tissue,
developing on twigs, limbs,
and branches, stopping the
flow of sap and nutrients.
Growth beyond the knots
can be stunted or even
dead, resulting in weak,
disfigured, and sometimes
dead trees. Knots are easily
recognized as lumpy, hard
black swellings on the wood.
Fungus overwinters on Control: Use a garden fork or an aerating tool to poke
infected twigs and produces holes, 7-10 cm (3-4 in.) apart and at least 12-15 cm (5-
new spores in the spring. 6 in.) deep into the fairy ring. To prevent the spread of
These spores are easily this fungi to other parts of your lawn or garden be sure to
transferred by wind, rain, disinfect your tools with a solution of household bleach or
or the activities of animals. New shoots are susceptible to lysol containing chlorine after you use them to aerate fairy
infection in the spring just before blooming or just after the rings. Water the infected area thoroughly. Next, apply a high
petals have fallen. Wet spring weather increases the spread nitrogen fertilizer, such as 20-3-4, to the lawn area. Water
of black knot spores. this area deeply throughout the summer. An alternative
method is digging the fairy ring out. To do this effectively
Control: Unfortunately there are no fungicides currently the grass and soil must be removed from a distance of 12
available to effectively treat black knot. Instead, prune out inches from the outside and inside edge of the ring and 12-
any growths making sure to cut at least eight inches below 18 deep. Take care not to spill any soil since any fairy ring
the knot. Disinfect the wound with copper spray, clean the mycellium that fall on the lawn from the soil being removed
pruning tool between cuts with a bleach solution, and either can start a new ring. Follow the instructions for cleaning the
destroy of completely dispose of infected wood. tools after this procedure has been completed.
pests & problemssafety & care
A disappointing factor of
gardening is the fact that dis-
ease, insects, and weeds (pests)
can destroy productive or at-
tractive plants. However, not all
insects cause damage. Many
insects are not pests at all but
are beneficial. Without insects
many berry and fruit producing
plants would not be pollinated.
Insects also provide food for fish
and birds. Beneficial insects are
scavengers, parasites, or preda-
tors which live off undesirable in-
sects. Because of the beneficial
aspects of some insects, insecti-
cides should only be used when
natural controls fail. Please see
the beneficial insect section for
further information.
Natural pest controls include
hard frost, snow, rain; and the
feeding of predacious insects
such as ladybugs, dragon flies,
and wasps. Spraying should
only be done when insect dam-
age is intolerable. Furthermore,
pesticides are only one way of
controlling pests and should only
be used when non-chemical
methods are not affective (See
Alternative to Pesticides).
Alternatives to pesticides:
There is a growing concern
over the extensive use of pes-
ticides and the effect they have
on the environment. For this
reason many people are looking
for alternative methods of pest
control. We offer a number of
natural products that can be eco-
nomical, effective, and safe to
use. Botanical insecticides such
as Pyrethrum, Resmethrin, Rote-
none, and Insecticidal Soaps are
examples of such products.
Trees and Shrubs: Many
home-garden pest problems can
be solved with cultural or biologi-
cal techniques. Deciduous trees
and shrubs may withstand sub-
stantial defoliation before being
significantly damaged. Insect
pests or leaves harboring insects
can be removed manually when
infestation levels are low. Spray
trees and shrubs with a strong
stream of water to dislodge and
kill insects. Prune diseased
PESTS AND PROBLEMS
When and if pesticides are required, there are a number of
precautions you should be aware of. Small plants can easily be sprayed by
a home owner using a small portable sprayer or hose-end sprayer. When
large trees require spraying a professional pesticide applicator should
be considered. Ask to see the company’s pesticide applicators license,
required by law, before hiring anyone.
Prior to applying any pesticide it is important to identify the problem.
For insect related problem determine when, during the insects' life
cycle, the insect is most vulnerable. Then determine which of the many
insecticides will control the insect harming your plants. Finally determine
if the insect in question has more than one life cycle. This may make it
necessary to spray more than once in a season to control the insect.
The best time to spray is on a calm evening, when rain is not
forecast. At this time insects are least active and most vulnerable.
Spraying in the evening also protects birds and bees which are also
less active at this time. Spraying when it is windy causes chemicals
to drift onto desirable plants in your own yard or in your neighbors'
yard. This can be especially destructive if you are applying herbicides.
The cool temperatures late in the day reduce the chance of pesticides
damaging (burning) plant tissue. Spraying when rain is forecast can lead
to chemicals being washed off, allowing pests to survive, and depositing
chemicals in local water ways. Spraying when plants are in bloom can
damage attractive flowers and reduce pollination which in turn reduces
yields.
It is the responsibility of the user to handle, store and apply
pesticides correctly and safely. Listed below are the most important things
to know when using pesticides.
1. When mixing and handling pesticides read and carefully follow the
precautions listed on the product label - chemicals may be toxic to
animals and beneficial insects.
173
2. Use only the pesticide recommended for the problem in question.
The recommended uses are listed on the label.
3. Mix all pesticide chemicals outdoors. Mix pesticide chemical
solutions according to the directions on the label. Do NOT make
pesticide solutions a little stronger for good measure as too much
may cause injury to plants, kill beneficial insects, or leave harmful
residues on edible crops; and is not more effective
4. Avoid inhaling chemical fumes, especially from the concentrated
chemical.
5. Never eat, drink, or smoke when handling chemicals.
6. Use all the safety equipment listed on the label. Keep your skin
completely covered by wearing protective clothing, waterproof boots,
and rubber gloves.
7. Mix chemicals for immediate use only and dispose of any left over
solution (See Pesticide Disposal).
8. Carefully return left over concentrated pesticides to the original
container for storage (See Safe Storage of Pesticides).
9.Use separate spray applicators for insecticides, fungicides and
herbicides. Traces of herbicides, even in a well washed sprayer, may
damage sensitive plants.
10. Apply pesticides on a calm day. Reduce drift through larger
droplets, low spray pressure, and low spray height.
 After spraying thoroughly wash out your pesticide
applicator and run some clean water through it. Wash your
PESTS AND PROBLEMS
protective clothing separately from other clothing in hot
water. Shower yourself, scrubbing with soap and warm
water. If dust or sprays are spilled on your skin or clothing,
remove clothing immediately and wash contaminated skin
with warm, soapy water. Keep children and pets out of the
treated area for 24 hours to prevent them from coming in
contact with the pesticides. When spraying vegetables,
fruits, or berries, note the number of days before harvest
listed on the product label. Make sure that no food products
are eaten from plants treated with pesticides until after the
appropriate number of days have passed.
It is also important to follow up on spray applications.
Check to see how affective the pesticide treatment was. Is
another application required or have the fungi, insects, or
weeds been controlled?
Since pest problems reoccur annually and throughout
the growing season it is important to know how to safely
store pesticides. Pesticides are poisons and should be
stored accordingly.
1. Store pesticides in a cool, dry location up out of reach
of kids.
2. Store chemicals in a locked cupboard away from food,
medicine, animal feeds, and cleaning compounds.
3. Always store pesticides in their original containers.
4. Keep the containers tightly closed when not in use.
Always store pesticides where they are not exposed
to freezing temperature or excessive heat. Extreme
fluctuations in temperature will considerably reduce a
pesticide's shelf life.
174
5. Store volatile herbicides such as 2,4-D separately
from other pesticides.
Safe Disposal of Pesticides
Disposal of unwanted pesticides in a proper manner.
The best precaution against disposal problems is to pur-
chase only small amounts of pesticides that can be used
-Sara Stein (1988)
“A gardener who knows his flowers and is ignorant of weeds now
up.
1. To dispose of unwanted pesticides contact the Waste
seems to me to be like half a coin, a tail without a head."
and Chemicals Division of the Alberta Government
(See Important Telephone Numbers). They will be
able to inform you as to where to drop-off unwanted,
unmarked, corroded, or damaged pesticide contain-
ers.
2. Dispose of leftover pesticide solutions by diluting them
with water. Combine the solution with three times as
much fresh water, a triple rinse, and dispose of this
highly diluted pesticide solution by pouring it into the
soil in the area where the chemical was originally ap-
plied.
3. Do NOT pour pesticides down the drain or down an
outside storm sewer drain.
4. Destroy or dispose of empty containers ASAP. Do
not leave empty containers around and never re-use
pesticide containers.
5. Break, puncture, or crush pesticide containers before
disposing of them. Always dispose of empty pesticide
containers in an outside garbage.
Herbicides
There are two main types of herbicides, or weed kill-
ers: Non- Selective and Selective.
Round-Up is a non-selective herbicide, killing most
annual and perennial grasses, including lawn grasses,
broadleaf weeds and brush. (i.e.) virtually anything that
is green and growing). It is a translocated herbicide that
is absorbed by the leaves and moves through the stem
to the roots to kill the entire plant. Results usually takes 7
- 10 days. Repeat applications may be necessary as new
seedings and vegetation emerge. Round-Up is not a soil
sterilant. It has no soil activity and will not leach or run off to
affect nearby vegetation.
Killex is a selective herbicide that kills most broad-
leaf weeds. It works by making the weed grow extremely
rapidly, completing its life cycle. It can safely be sprayed
onto weeds in the lawn, killing the weed, but not injuring the
grass. Results take 7 days, and repeat applications may be
necessary for new seedlings.
Herbicides should be applied on a warm calm day,
when rain is not expected for at least six hours. Care should
be taken to apply herbicides close to ground level with ei-
ther a heavy spray or a dust free watering can. Mist can be
picked up by a slight breeze and carried to desirable plants.
For best results, weeds should also be dust free.
Soil Sterilizers
Soil Sterilizers kill everything growing in the soil where
they are applied. They can also move in the soil, and kill
trees many feet away from the place of application. They
move farther and more quickly in sandy soil than in heavy
clay, and move in the direction water drains. Soil sterilizers
can persist in the soil for several years. Remember that tree
roots can grow a considerable distance, so they can move
into an area where a long-lasting herbicide is still active
several years after application. Generally, it is safer to use
a herbicide such as Round-Up, which is decontaminated
upon contact with soil and kills only what is sprayed.
Metric Conversion
volume 1 in. = 2.54 cm.
1 tsp. = 5ml. 6 in. = 15.24 cm.
1 tbsp. = 3 tsp. or 15ml. 12 in. = 30.48 cm.
3.3 ft. = 1 m.
1 oz. = 30 ml.
1 cup = 8 oz. or 250 ml. 1 ft. = 30.5 cm.
4 cups = 1000 ml. or 1 litre 10 ft. = 3 m.
1 gal. = 4.5 litre
AREA
WEIGHT 11 sq. ft. = 1 sq. m.
1 oz. = 28 g. 110 sq. ft. = 10 sq. m.
9 oz. = 250 g. 1100 sq. ft. = 100 sq. m.
5376 sq. ft. = 500 sq. m.
1 lb. = 454 g.
2.2 lb = 1000 g or 1 kg
11 lb. = 5 kg.
22 lb. = 10 kg.
(approximate measurements)
LENGTH
 PESTS AND PROBLEMS
insecticides (partial list only)
Trade Name Active Mode of Formulation Features/Uses Pests
Ingredient Action Controlled
Ambush permethrin contact liquid spray Synthetic pyrethroid for outdoor insects
tree and garden
Antkiller carbaryl contact granules Lawn/garden ant control outdoor ants
Aqua Bac Bacillus thuringensis stomach pellets Biological insecticide for mosquito larvae
israelensis poison standing water outdoors
BTK Bacillus stomach liquid spray Biological insecticide caterpillars, worms
thuringensis poison Bacteria disrupts stomach lining
Carbolic Soap carbolic acid contact soap bar Apply to lawn dew worms
Creepy Crawly permethrin contact aerosol Synthetic pyrethroid for indoor/outdoor
cracks and crevices non-flying insects
Diatomaceous Earth silicon dioxide long lasting abrasive Diatomaceous earth crawling insects
residual powder scratches insects body
Dormant Oil mineral oil contact, liquid spray Dormant oil breaks down scale, mealybugs,
residual insect's waxy coating insect eggs
End-All vegetable oil; contact liquid spray Miticide/insecticide; outdoor aphid, spider mite,
pyrethrin whitefly, caterpillar,
scale, thrips, etc.
Hornet & Wasp Spray resmethrin; contact, foam, Spray wasp or hornet nest wasps, hornets
permethrin residual jet spray
HYPE-O Hypoaspis mites predator granules Avail. for indoor or outdoor fungus gnat, thrips
Insecticidal Soap potassium salts contact liquid spray Mild insecticide soft-bodied insects
of fatty acids Dessicates body fluids
Rotenone Garden Dust rotenone stomach powder Natural organic insecticide; outdoor insects
poison extremely toxic to fish
Sevin; Bug-B-Gon carbaryl contact liquid Spray fruit, vegetables,lawns outdoor insects
Trounce insecticidal soap; contact liquid spray Avail. in outdoor yard/garden aphids, spider mite
pyrethrin or indoor houseplant forms whitefly, caterpillar,
psyllid, etc.

insecticides for houseplant pests 175

Color/ Plant Plant Feeding Insecticidal Cultural
Pest Description Damage Hosts Action Control Control

Aphid usually green wilting flowers/ most plants suck sap pyrethrin remove heavily
or black yellowing insecticidal soap infested leaves
Fungus Gnat small black root damage most potted larvae resmethrin; allow soil to dry out
flies plants eat roots HYPE-O between waterings
Mealy Bug grayish-white; plant stunting mostly cacti suck sap pyrethrin hand-picking
cottony, wingless and succulents
Scale dark brown; leaf spotting most plants suck sap pyrethrin, pruning or picking
shell-like, wingless insecticidal soap
Spider Mite minute red or leaf spotting most plants suck sap insecticidal soap, misting reduces
two-spotted mite miticide population
Thrips tiny, dark silvery streaks most plants suck sap pyrethrin keep dry
slender flies
Whitefly small white plant stunting fuschia, daisies, suck sap pyrethrin sticky yellow boards
moth-like insects tomatoes, etc.
PESTS AND PROBLEMS
fungicides
Trade Name Active Mode of Formulation Features/Uses Pests
Ingredient Action Controlled
Bulb and Soil Dust captan; protectant powder Fungicide/insecticide fungal rot,
carbaryl contact applied to bulbs and soil soil borne insects
Copper Spray copper protectant wettable Prevents fungal disease mildew, blight, black
contact powder on yard/garden plants spot, anthracnose
Folpet folpet protectant wettable Prevents fungal disease powdery mildew,
sytemic powder on roses and ornamentals black spot
Funginex triforine protectant liquid spray Prevents fungal disease powdery mildew, rust,
systemic on roses and ornamentals black spot
Garden Sulphur sulphur protectant wettable powder Prevents many fungal powdery mildew, black
contact liquid spray fruit and foliage diseases spot, anthracnose, rust
LIme Sulphur sulphide protectant liquid spray Prevents fungal diseases powdery mildew, black
sulphur contact on fruit/foliage; used with spot, anthracnose, etc
Dormant Oil to kill overwin- insect eggs, scale
tering insects; fungal spores
Tomato and copper; protectant powder Insecticide/fungicide fungal diseases;
Potato Dust carbaryl contact insect pests

herbicides
Trade Name Active Mode of Formulation Features/Uses Pests
Ingredient Action Controlled
Calcide amitrole; soil residual liquid Non-selective herbicide kills all vegetation
simazine One year soil residual
Chickweed, Clover M.C.P.P. contact liquid Selective herbicide for ckickweed, clover,
176 & Thistle (mecaprop) systemic broad-leaf weeds thistle
Killex 2,4-D; dicamba contact liquid Selective herbicide for broad-leaf weeds
mecoprop systemic broad-leaf weeds in lawn
Moss Control ferrous liquid or Controls moss in lawns; moss
sulphate granular do not use on cement
Roundup glyphosate systemic liquid Non-selective herbicide kills all green vegetation
for perennial weed control incl. grass and thistles
Weedex Bar 2,4-D contact solid bar Non-volatile, no spray drift dandelions, plantain
systemic kills broad-lf. weeds in lawns
pests & problemsweed identification

PESTS AND PROBLEMS

The best definition of a weed is a plant that grows where it is not
wanted. Invasive weeds are those that grow in the wrong place
and are very hard to get rid of. These have been categorized as
nuisance, noxious, and restricted. Nuisance weeds are kept in
check to prevent their spread; they may be problematic but do
not threaten habitats or species. Noxious weeds are controlled
and can cause problems with habitats. Finally, restricted weeds
are destroyed when found. These weeds threaten other species
of plants or animals with extinction.

Weeds are further classified as perennial or annual forms. Ox-Eye Daisy Canada Thistle
Perennial weeds come up every year from the same roots. Shallow-rooted perennial that A vigorous perennial that
Examples of this type are thistles or quackgrass. Generally spreads by rhizomes and spreads by seeds and roots.
these weeds have swollen roots which store energy much like seeds. Classified as noxious. Classified as noxious.
perennial plants; some even begin as perennial plants brought
into the garden. As a result these weeds are very hard to control.
Chemicals that are effective on these plants will also kill or
damage ornamental plants and are uaually not recommended,
though Round-Up can be carefully painted on the leaves of
the weed. Cultural methods include trying to remove the entire
plant, simply removing the top every time it comes to the surface
(eventually this will exhaust the weed's energy supply) and using
landscape fabric in evergreen plantings or perennial beds.

Annual weeds sprout from seed every year; the plants do

not survive the winter. Because of this, annual weeds seed Yellow Toadflax Purple Loosestrife
themselves in greater profusion than perennial weeds. On the (Butter & Eggs) This perennial is said to
positive side, these weeds are much easier to take care of. A Perennial that reproduces invade wetlands and choke
consistent program of cultivation, that is turning the top inch or from seed and rootstocks. out plant and animal life.
so of soil over periodically, will destroy weed seedlings. If your
vegetable or annual garden is heavily infested an application
of Round-Up on a warm spring day before you plant will be 177
successful on any weeds that have germinated. Never spray
Round-Up near the leaves of any plants you wish to keep
such as perennials, ornamental trees, evergreens, annuals,
or vegetables because it is a non-selective herbicide and will
kill or damage every plant it touches. Chemicals like Killex, or
selective herbicides that kill everything except grasses, are not
recommended because they remain active in the soil and will
damage anything planted in the area.
Spotted Knapweed Common Tansy
Pictured on this page are a few of the common and problem
This biennial/short-lived This aromatic perennial
weeds in our area. For further information visit our website. perennial is a major prob- spreads by seed.
lem as other plants cannot It is classified as nox-
compete with it. ious.

Creeping Bellflower Wild Mustard Field Bindweed Scentless Camomile

A perennial weed common- An annual weed commonly Introduced perennial with Annual or short-lived per-
ly found in alleys. Aggres- found in newly developed extremely well-developed ennial with prolific seed
sively invades lawns and areas. root system. Classified as production. Classified as
gardens through seeds noxious. noxious.
 pests & problemsweed identification
PESTS AND PROBLEMS

Restricted
Name(s) Annual Description Spreads Fields Registered
Nuisance or
Biennial or by: Beds or Herbicide
Noxious
Perennial Lawns Control
Weed
BUCKWHEAT- annual small green flowers seeds fields Nuisance in AB
Wild or Tartary heart-shaped lvs, clasping stems and beds
CHAMOMILE- biennial white, daisy-like flowers seeds fields Noxious in
Scentless dissected lvs on branched stems Calgary & Alberta
CHICKWEED- annual tiny, white, star-shaped flowers seeds, shaded Killex Nuisance in AB
Common opposite, oval lvs, prostrate stems layering beds
CLOVER perennial pink or white flowers seeds lawns Killex
rounded leaflets
DANDELION perennial yellow daisy-like flwr. heads seeds, lawns Killex Noxious in Calgary
basal rosette of toothed lvs. roots beds, fields Nuisance in AB
FLIXWEED annual small yellow flower clusters seeds fields Nuisance in AB
dissected lvs on branched stems and beds
FOXTAIL perennial green foxtail flower spikes seeds fields Noxious in Calgary
(Wild Barley) linear leaves on round stems Nuisance in AB
GROUND IVY perennial purple flowers, round leaves stolons beds Killex
Creeping Charlie square, spreading stems and lawns
GROUNDSEL- annual yellow flower heads seeds fields
Common fleshy leaves and stems and beds
KNAPWEED- biennial purple or white flower heads seeds fields Restricted in AB
Diffuse or Spotted alternate lvs on branched stems
KNOTWEED- annual small inconspicuous flowers seeds roadsides Killex
Prostrate prostrate stems with small lvs
KOCHIA annual inconspicuous flowers seeds fields Noxious in Calgary
(Cypress) narrow lvs on branching stems
LAMB'S QUARTERS annual small green flwrs, grooved stems seeds fields Killex Nuisance in AB
178 alternate stalked leaves and beds
LOOSESTRIFE- perennial purple flower spikes seeds, wetlands Noxious in AB
Purple (Lyrthum salicaria) seeds/stems invade wetlands stems
MALLOW- annual tiny white flowers seeds beds Killex Nuisance in AB
Round-leaved round lvs on spreading stems
NETTLE- annual pink flwrs, opposite oval lvs seeds fields Nuisance in AB
Hemp hairy, square stems and beds
PIGWEED- snnual green flower spikes seeds fields Killex Nuisance in AB
Redroot red roots and stems and beds
PLANTAIN- annual long, narrow, green flwr spikes seeds lawns Killex
Broad-leaved basal rosette of lvs, basal stem
PURSLANE annual inconspicuous yellow flowers seeds fields Killex
(Wild Portulaca) prostrate, succulent stems and beds
QUACK GRASS perennial green flower spikes seeds, fields Roundup Noxious in Calgary
(Couch Grass) flat-leafed blades on hollow stems rhizomes beds, lawns Nuisance in AB
SHEPHERD'S PURSE annual small white flowers, basal lvs. seeds fields Killex Nuisance in AB
purse-shaped seed pods and beds
SPURGE- perennial yellow flowers, linear lvs. roots, beds Noxious in AB
Leafy or Cypress stems contain milky sap seeds
STINKWEED annual numerous, small white flwrs. seeds fields Killex Noxious in Calgary
narrow lvs, round seed pods and beds Nuisance in AB
THISTLE- perennial upright purple flwr heads roots, beds Roundup Noxious in Calgary
Canada spiny leaves and stems seeds and fields Killex and Alberta
THISTLE- biennial nodding purple flwr heads seeds fields Restricted in AB
Nodding spiny leaves and stems
THISTLE- perennial upright yellow flwr heads seeds, fields Killex Noxious in Calgary
Sow toothed lvs on smooth stems roots and beds and Alberta
TOADFLAX-Yellow perennial yellow snap-dragon-like flwrs. roots, fields Roundup Noxious in Calgary
(Butter & Eggs) linear lvs, creeping rootstocks seeds and Alberta
christmas atgolden acre

CHRISTMAS
Come in and see our expanded Christmas department!
Every year our talented staff spend six feverish weeks
transforming the store into a beautiful Christmas shop.

We carry a wonderful array of ornaments, garlands,

trees (both everlasting and cut), Dept. 56 and other
collectibles, Nativity scenes, Christmas plants
(naturally) and much more. Make a point of stopping
in this holiday season; it's well worth the trip.

Fresh Cut Trees

We bring in hundreds of cut trees every year, filling our
covered lot by mid-November. Here you will find BC
Fir and Balsam Fir. We also carry fresh cedar, balsam,
and mixed evergreen boughs, garlands, and wreaths.
Ask our staff for assistance and they will gladly give the
tree a fresh cut, wrap it, and help you out to your car. Be
sure to pick up a tree-disposal bag and Christmas Tree
Food. The bag will help reduce the mess left by falling
needles and the food will significantly increase the life
of your tree. If you add food to the tree's water, keep it
away from a heat source like the fireplace or a register.
Always ensure the water is topped up your tree should
be fine until well after Christmas. We carry a very good
selection of decorative tree stands for your cut tree.

Lately we have had a number of requests for living

Christmas trees that you can plant outside after the
holidays are over. Unfortunately, these evergreens 179
find it too dry inside and have a difficult time. If the tree
survives the Christmas season then you are faced with
planting it either in frozen soil or a dry, climactically
unstable conditions. The vast majority of trees treated in
this manner die in Alberta conditions. Norfolk Island Pine
or Goldcrest Cypress are available in our houseplant
section and can be decorated for Christmas. These trees
must remain inside because they are tropical evergreens
and cannot survive our winters.

Everlasting
Christmas Trees
We have a large selection of everlasting trees in many
styles and colours ranging from traditional green and
blue through to silver and even black. The trees come
in sizes from 24 inches all the way up to 14 feet. We
also carry a variety of everlasting wreaths, swags, and
garlands. Ask our staff how to string the lights on the tree
so you can leave them on until next year.
 christmas atgolden acre
CHRISTMAS

We are proud to be one of the city's largest dealers of

Dept. 56 ceramic and porcelain houses. Golden Acre
carries most village pieces and Snowbabies. We hold
special event days for collectors and the general public.
Listed below are the Dept. 56 lines we carry through-
out the year. Come in and see our permanent display.

Dickens' Village
Take a journey back to Victorian London with this col-
lection. Quaint shops and homes, inspired in part by the
novels of Charles Dickens, show us what Christmas was
like in this bygone era. Made of hand-crafted porcelain
by highly skilled artisans, this series was introduced in
1984 to capture both the detail of the times and the spirit
of holidays past, present and yet to come. Many pieces
even feature animation or sound for additional authen-
ticity and fun. Best of all, a multitude of accessories add
realism and depth to your holiday village setting.

180

North Pole Series

The home of everyone’s favorite jolly old elf, Santa, Mrs.
Claus and all their busy little helpers. Sprinkled with new-
fallen snow, these brightly-lit, porcelain buildings and
fanciful accessories make for a legendary wonderland
only Santa could imagine. Santa’s North Pole is a place
of joy - where he, Mrs. Claus and the elves live, play
and prepare for Christmas each year.

Christmas in the City

Introduced in 1987, it’s just the place for excitement
and cheer. Inspired by the hustle and bustle of city
sidewalks, this hand-painted, porcelain cityscape is
filled with lighted shops, restaurants, theatres, homes
and, of course, busy shoppers, carolers and loads of
well-wishers. It’s the quintessential city all dressed up
for the holidays.
The enchanting lighted buildings are generally two
stories in height and are home to the usual cast of
characters including holiday shoppers, city police cars,
party-goers, and, naturally, town tree trimmers.
living gifts

CHRISTMAS
We have one of the best selections of flowering plants in the city, including azaleas, orchids, holiday cactus, cycla-
men, kalanchoe, and pot mums. For unique gifts don't forget to check out the rest of our indoor plants including
cactus and bonsai. Of course, we carry poinsettias available in red, pink, white, gold, marbled and variegated
types. We also have new varieties like the double-flowering 'Christmas Rose' and the ruffled 'Carousel'.

Choosing a poinsettia
Look for dark green foliage and brightly colored bracts (the coloured leaves surrounding the true flowers).
Avoid poinsettias with wilted foliage, broken stems, or few flowers.

How to care for your poinsettia

Always take care to keep the plant warm. Never take it outside since exposure to freezing temperatures, even
for a short while, may cause the leaves to blacken and drop. We will wrap your poinsettia to help prevent this
but make sure you take it home quickly. The paper sleeve will not protect you plant during an extended stop-
over in a cold car.
Once you get home place the poinsettia near, but not touching, a sunny window or in another well-lit spot. Make
sure to keep it away from draughts. Water only when the soil becomes dry to the touch.
181
Are poinsettias poisonous?
A common myth about poinsettias is that they are poisonous. This is not true (though they are of a low toxicity
to cats); studies conducted by the Ohio State University concluded that they are not poisonous though certain
individuals may experience an allergic reaction to the sap.

Re-flowering
To get your poinsettia to flower again next year you must follow these steps:
•Cut the plant back to around 8" high in early April, fertilize with all-purpose fertilizer, and water regularly. This
should result in new growth by the end of May.
•You may prune during the summer to keep plants compact but do not prune any later than September 1. Keep
the poinsettias in indirect sun and water them regularly.
•Starting October 1 poinsettias must be kept in complete darkness (no light at all - not even streetlights or a
nightlight) for 14 hours and at a temperature of 16-21 degrees Celsius. In order to do this cover them or move
them into a dark room every night. Poinsettias also need 6-8 hours of bright sunlight a day during this period.
Carefully follow these instructions for 8-10 weeks and you should get flowers for Christmas.

Holiday Cactus
Getting your Holiday Cactus to rebloom is a lot like getting a poinsettia to rebloom. Once the plant has stopped
flowering, begin feeding with an all purpose fertilizer. Do not fertilize while in bloom as this will cause a shorter
blooming period. You also need to limit the number of daylight hours the plant is exposed to. It needs 14-16 hours
of darkness and only 8 hours of light each day. Repeat this for 8-12 weeks, and before you know it you will have
beautiful Holiday Cactus blooms once again.
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