FOR STRETCH FABRICS

KEITH R . ICHARDS
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Director of Sales and Acquisitions: Dana Meltzer-Berkowitz

Executive Ed1tor: Olga T. Kontzias
Acquis1t1ons Ed1tor: Joseph Miranda
Senior Development Editor: Jennifer Crane
Art D1rector: Adam B. Bohannon

Production Manager: Ginger Hillman

Cover Design: Adam B. Bohannon

Copyright © 2008 Fairchild Books, A Division of Conde Nast

Publications.

All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the

copyright hereon may be·reproduced or used in any form or
by any means-graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including
photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and
retrieval systems-without written permission of the publisher.

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2007935039

ISBN: 978-1-56367-479-2
GST R 133004424

Printed in the United States of America

TP12
CONTENTS

lntrodudton 1 >.

1 :"tn·tch 7W‡UPaand .]urgon

2 annd .i\len.,urements 29

3 PnnCipl<>s of Pattern-Drafting 53

4 Slopers and Reductions 75

5 Skirts 107

6 Pa nts 175

7 Tops 201

8 Sleeves 249

9 Sweaters 279

10 Dresses 317

11 Oversized Projects 341

12 Four-Way-Stretch 371

13 Bodysuits, Leotards, and One- and Two-Piece

Swimsuits 395

14 Fitting and Corrections 425

Appendix: Costing Sheets 443

 INTRODUCTION
!n the past. the garment industry ,,·as segmented
Into different categories such as daywear, eve-
ningwear. and swimwear. The industry was also
divided into houses that manufactu'red knits
and those that manufactured wo,·en fashions.
However, in order to remain competitive in the
current marketplace. today. all designers and
manufacturers must incorporate stretch fabrics
in their collections. A large portion of modern
collections are created from stretch and knit
fabrics. Almost all tops, sweaters, swimsuits,
and dresses in a designer collection are cre-
ated utilizing knit fabrics. The modern designer
must understand the use of knit fabrics a nd the
specific patternmaking procedures required to
ma ke knit garments.
Most new stretch designers and pattern-
m akers mistakenly believe that stretch a nd
knit garments must be extremely close-fitting
a nd tight. While this is often the case, it is not
always t rue. Stretch garments can also be loose,
draped, shirred, oversized, and fluid . Cowl
necks, draped effects, ruffles, a nd flow can eas-
ily and very effectively be created th rough the
use of knit fabrics. It is the character of the fab-
ric to be fluid and liquid, and it is for this rea-
son that ma ny designers and manufacturer s
use stretch fabrics in their collections. Most be-
ginners also assume t hat stretch garments are
not "designer." However, Sonia Rykiel, Azzedine
Alaia, Missoni, Norma Kamali, and Stephen
Burrows, are examples of designer s who have
built entire collections and empires based pri-
marily on knit fabrics.
Throughout this text, the terms "stretch fab-
ric" and "knit fabric" are used interchangeably.
The characteristic that m akes fabric stretch is
knitting that is not done like your grandmother
while she sat on the porch in her favorite rocking
chair, but instead with huge industrial machines
that replicate the exact same stitches she used
to make that holiday sweater. The new designer
can't imagine that your favorite T-shirt, hoodie,
ar your comfy fleece track pants were created by
bitting with eith er small or large needles.
The Intended Audience
This book i::: intended for students of fashion,
current designers that need refresher lessons
or updated knowledge of designing and pattern-
making for stt·ctch, a nd the experienced home
sewer who requ ires pattcrnmak ing knowledge
for stretch fabrics. This book assumes that the
reader has a basic understa nding of sew ing and
will be able to construct these ga rments with
industrial equipment. It does not show very
many sewing a nd construction techniques.
This text is unique in that is develops dif-
ferent slopers for each different stretch r atio,
thus allowing the patternmaker to focus on the
r ealization of the design a nd not the mathemat-
ics necessary to compensate for the stretch fac-
tors of knit fabrics. The la rgest ratio is drafted
and the other stretch r atios, being smaller, are
outlined on the larger sloper.
This book is intended as an introduction
to the principles a nd practices of stretch pat-
ternmaking a nd not every imaginable style is
illustrated. To gain a more thorough knowledge
of the subject matter it is imper ative that the
student practice a nd apply the principles ex-
plained in this book. Eventua lly, the pattern-
making will become instinctuaL
This book a lso cannot foresee the constant
and evolving changes inherent in the fashion
industry and, consequently, the styles illustrated
throughout this text a re not chosen for their
fa shion importa nce, but rather as a teaching
tool to illustrate the ma ny different pattern-
drafting techniques the student should under-
stand. The styles created throughout this text
are not shown as exa mples of current fashion.
Ins tead, they are intended to instruct the pat-
ternmaker and designer how to use their own
creativity to develop their own unique styles.
This textbook is different from other books
in that it studies and explains each garment
type, rather than garment parts. The student
is able to go to the section for T-shirts, and find
out how to draft the sloper, create the pattern,
 INiRODUCTION
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th: ,.
a?QG
th use tlle re Ievant garment details.
. rather subject matter. and a s hort quiz to delerrnin

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. an sifting through chapters trying to find the that you fully under sta_nd . the concepts of
mformation necessary. Often. this textbook is project. Each p~oJ ect W ill m corporate two dif.
repetiti,·e because it has been created so that fer en t sea m fimshes, so that by the time th
students may turn to the chapter they are in- student h as completed the ten projects requir ~
for the course, the student will h ave a thorou:h )I
terested in and be able to complete a project
without ba,·ing to flip though many chapters understanding of stretch fa brics. )I
and each eYery page looking for a neckline t hat )II
may only apply to a T-shirts. About the Diagrams and ~

How This Book Is

Organized
Each area of study will begin with the draft of
a sloper/block. which is a basic template of t h e
garment. and then proceed to illustrate differ-
ent patterns within the subject area. The final
portion of each area of study will focus on a d-
vanced patternmaking practices of the subject
matter. This will be followed by an exercise,
garment, to test the designer's knowledge of the
Illustrations
Please note the diagra ms and illustration are
not in the correct proportions. The reader can-
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not measure the illustrations because they are
not accurate. All measurements will be indi-
cated a nd should b e followed as taken from
the m easurement charts provided. Any of the
,
measurements given may be substituted with
per sonal measurements for t h e development
of personal slopers and patterns or for custom
designs.

Legend
The foll owing '"_'ill be used throughout the text and may
be used as a gmde to the illustrations.

Fabrics

0 Slopers and blocks

[] Patterns with seam allowances

D - Production patterns

l l l ll lllllllll l lllllllll l lllllllllllllllllllllll One by one rib

I~llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll One by two rib

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Two by two rib

 INTRODUCTION Xi

llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll/11 Three by six rib

c
I
f f f f f I II I I I I f I I I I I II I I f I I I Three thread serging

I ~WW/t(~(~W\J\~{~(~~~J~ Elastic waist

I
~L\'I~~L
1 1
I ~f~l~I)'I·I~L ~r~11_
1 " 1
1 1
Elastic waist with stitch through the center
II I /1!1 L iII I /1!1
J I I
I
I t;~g~~~~~:-t;~g~~~~~:- Elastic waist with two rows of stitching through the center
J
J
Coverstitch from the correct side
J
t
\ll{f{WM{W{WMZQQQQ Coverstitch from the wrong side

)1111111)j11111111-=. Four thread serging

--------------- Topstitching

mmmmmmmmmmmmA Zipper teeth

l\ 1' ll~~l\ 1' ll~~l\ 1' ll~~ Shirring and gathering

@ Two hole button

@) Four hole button

<D Closed buttons showing the button hole

d '
90 degrees. is used to Indicate a right angle.

Is used to Indicate that nn area needs to blended Into a smooth

:' blend '1 curved line; may or may not Include the word "blend" in the
'' -- ' circle.

3/8" binding
x:ll INTRODUCTION ~
e a nd is intended for the profes . ~
you. h av with industria l equipment. Alt~lonal
Pattern Labeling deslgnfe rtsh e instructions are intended for though
most o. · also b e·IIJ.
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ewer t he home sewer w11l
All patterns should be created full open. How- dustn a 1 s·nformation
• · d enefit
conta m e . •
ever, for clarity and space the patterns in this from tl1e I
Stretch fabrics may ~eem complicated
•
text are often created on the fold. All patterns •
·ng in the begmmng, but th ey b '~lid
should be labeled with grain lines, style num- con f u Sl d d . eco"' •
·er a nd easier to un erstan With each ·••e
ber, and the stretch ratio. eas1 . · corn •
let ed project . Practice sergmg a few searn ·
faching elastic, and cover .stitching a few~· at.. •
Sewing before beginning any proJect. Eventually ellla •
understanding of stretch fabric will beco Your
As mentioned earlier, this book is about making "' . rne tn •
patterns for use with stretch fabrics-not sew-
ing. This text presupposes you have the ab11Ity
stinctual and e f 1ect1ve. ·
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to put the garment together with the equipment
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The author would like to thank the following for their pa-
tience help and understanding during the preparation of this
text: colleagues, coworkers, and, especially, the students of
the International Academy of Design, whose help and con-
stant questions have been the driving force of this book. In
addition, thank you to James Fowler for submitting this se-
ries of handouts to Fairchild Books and to Lori Stilwell, my
original knitting instructor. To friends, Alan Thomas Smith,
Stephen Wong, and Suzanne Boyd, thank you so much for
your patience, support, and understanding while I was writ-
ing this text. Also, special thanks to the authors of all other
fashion and garment textbooks, whose writing and teaching
have educated me and inspired me to embark on this journey.
And, thank you to Margaret, for a lifetime of love.
••
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Designing and Patternmaking
for Stretch Fabrics
 CHAPTER I

Stretch Terms and Jargon

Objective
Because of the former :;egmentation of the garment industry,
into e\·eningwear. knitwear. and swimwear. the stretch in-
dustry has its own terminology and jargon. The stretch de-
signer and patternmaker must understand the specific tenns
in order to communicate ideas, details. and specifications to
manufacturers and contractors.
This chapter introduces the reader to the terminology and
jargon that is specific to stretch design, patternmaking, and
construction. After reading this chapter the reader should be
able to identify stretch ratios, the direction of stretch, and un-
derstand the stretch patternmaking process.
It is important to know these terms before studying any of
the other chapters, as this terminology will be used through-
out the text.

All Knit Fabrics Are Created

on Knitting Machines
It doesn't matter whether your fabric is a lightweight , sheer
jersey knit such as in many designer T-shirts, or a bulky
knitted sweater. Th ey are all knitted on knitting machines.
Fine knits forT- shirts are created on knitting machines with
very fine needles and yarn, while bulky fabrics are created on
thick er-gauged machines with larger needles and bulky yarn .
The knit fabric that you purchase is knit. Your favorite T-shirt
is knit. Your winter toque is knit. And while there a r e many
different sizes of needles and yarn, as well a s combination s of
stitches, they a re a ll knit on some variation of the basic knit-
ting machine.

Direction of Stretch
The first and most important aspect of understanding knit
fabrics is understanding the direction of the stretch, and how
the direction should be used when creating garments.

1
 ~ 1-il\Pl t H 1 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON

ONE-WAY STRETCH
·, ,,,
0 ne-way s t re t ch us r.,b1.1·c tJ1 at only st,·etchC's acr·oss
. the fab.
ric and. the stretch is entirely del'ived from the st.rtches used
wh.en crea t.1ng tl1e "~bric
''"' · Garments shou ld be made Wtt.h the
stretches across the fabnc stretch going around the body.
TWO-WAY STRETCH
·, "abric
Two-wm s t rC' t cI1 J:s "· that .stretches across as well as
up and ·down: the st retch is denved from the ya rn a nd the
stitclws.
FOUR-WAY STRETCH
Four-way :s·tretch is fabric that stretches across as well as up
an d down· t]1e "abric
" , a nd has supplementary stretch added
through spandex/Lycra® being added to the fibers before
knitting. . .
Most knits stretch more in one d1rectwn than the other,
and many knits stretch in only one ?i.rection: cr~ss~ i se. The
experienced patternmaker always ubhzes t~e ~mlt-m stretch
of knits, with the direction of stretch encu·chng the figure
when knits are used for dresses, jacket s, pants, skirts, tops,
and sleeves. However, the greatest degree of s tretch should
go up and down the torso for bodysuits, catsuits, leotards, or
any other garment that passes through the crotch , to allow
for maximum mobility. One-way-stretch knits a r e rarely used
for these garments because of the discomfort created in the
crotch when the customer raises her a rms.
Two-way-stretch a nd four-way-stretch pa tterns are iden-
tical, meaning, the same patterns may be used interchange-
ably. However, garments made with two-way stretch will of-
stretches aaoss the fabnc ten sag on the body, at the knees, elbows, and crotch, because
as well as fengthwose
and has spandex added
the fabric does not have any memory, or elasticity, and will
not return to its original sh ape after it's worn.
Also note that one-way-stretch patterns may be used with
four-way-stretch fabrics, as long as the garment does not need
lengthwise reductions. For example, a one-way-stretch skirt
may be cut using a four-way-stretch fabric because there is
nothing holding the skirt down at the botto~ hem (referred to
as. ~n a nchor). Thus, the lengthwise direction of stretch is not
utlhzed at alL
Distinctive and separate four-way-stretch patterns are
o~ly necessary when the stretch of the garment is anchored
t rough
one p1ecethe· crotch,
· · such as with catsuits' bodysuits' leotards,
the -crotch.SWimsmts, and other garments that pass through
 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON CHAPTER 1 3

Why Knit Fabrics Stretch

Knit fa?rics are created by interlooping yarn; each loop is
c~ug~t m the row above, and is anchored to the stitches be-
Side It. As the fabric stretches, the loops expand.
Stable-~nit fabrics stretch because the knitted loops will
expand ?on~ontally. Because the yarn itself does not stretch,
the fabnc wrll not stretch in the lengthwise direction.
Two-way-stretch fabrics stretch because the yarn that is
~sed to knit .them is textured and crimped in a spiral forma-
twn. It uncoils as it stretches, and thus will stretch in both
directions-across, and up and down.
Four-way-stretch fabrics have a core yarn of spandex, la-
tex, or Lycra® with another yarn wrapped in a spiral around
it. The coils loosen as the fabric stretches and because of the
elastic core, it will spring back to its origi~al size.

Stretch Factor
The str etch factor, or stretch ratio, is the maximum percent-
age t h at a fabric will stretch. Most knits stretch from 18 to
100 percent.
There are five different stretch factors used for designing
and drafting stretch patterns.

SPANDEX
Spandex is a synthetic fabric, in which the latex yarn u~ed ~or
the knitting is wrapped with another yarn. Spandex w1ll g1ve
the fabric excellent memory, and the ability to stretch a lot
more than yarn without spandex.

LYCRA VS. SPANDEX

Lycra® is a trademarked name for spandex. People incorre~tly
use the terms spandex and Lycra interchangeably. Lycra 1s a
version of spandex, created by DuPont.

LATEX
Latex is a natural elastic or rubber core yarn, with other
round it It is a natural fiber used to create
yarns wrapped a ·
spandex.
ELASTANE
Canadian or other name fior "spandex."
 o4 C HAPTER 1 ST RETC H T ERM S AND JAR G ON
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Stretch Ratios
1t
d t h t di ffer en t knit f abrics
IS also importan t to under stana h t" must h ave
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stretch differ ent amounts, and each stretc r a 10

its own set of slopers.

Stable kn1ts 18%-25% 5- stretches

to 6 1 / , ·
Stable knits have very little stretch, and will need garment ease to al~
movement when worn. Stable knits are often created overs1zed to allow
for garment ease.
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Examples of stable knits are Polarfleece®, sweat fabrics, etc.
Moderate kmts 26%-50% 5- stretches This type will stretch more than stable kn its. Examples include T-shirt fabric,

Stretchy kn1ts 51%-75%

to 7 11.s-

to 8 31,-
interlocks, jerseys, etc.
5· stretches Examples of stretch knits include velour, stretch terry, and some T-shirt
fabrics, etc. ••
Super-stretch
kn1ts
76%-100% 5- stretches Excellent stretch and recovery make this fabric suitable for catsuits,
to 10· bodysuits, leotards, and swimwear, etc . (for example, fibers blended with
spandex or latex). The elastic fibers of this type of knit can stretch many ••
R1b knits Up to
100%
times their original length and width and return to the original measurement.
Examples include spandex, nylon spandex, cotto n spandex, jumbo spandex.
5- stretches Known as the traditional "knit one, purl one" wristband stitch. Rib knits depend
up to 10· on the knit pattern used (e.g., 1 x 1 ribs will stretc h more than 2 X 2, 3 x 3,
etc.). Rib knits are created by alternating stitches between the two needle beds.
•••
Sweater kmts 18%-50% 5-will
They appear identical on both sides of the fabric, and don't curl at the edges.
Examples include cuff ribbing, waistband ribbing, and crew-neck collars.
Sweater knits are those types of fabrics that one would typically use to create
•
it

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stretch to sweaters and sweater dresses. They are usually made with a thicker yarn.
7 '12-
Stretchwovens Less than 5- will
Stretch woven fabrics are created by weaving Lycra® w ith in the fabric, and
18% stretch to 6-
sho uld be treated as a woven fabric. However, the ease should be reduced
or removed from the slopers. '

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1
2 STRETCHES TO ~
~\r: ••
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-- STABLE KNITS ••
How to Determine the
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Stretch Ratio of Your Fabric !I
Take your fabric and fold .t fi .
the cut edge. Place one inl a e~ mches below
the selvedge and I p a few mches in from . Stretch the fabric within the pinned area.
from the first pin. p ace another pin at 5" away If ~t coi?fortably stretches to 6 W, it is a stable
To get an accurate kmt, With a stretch ratio of 25 percent, and you
measure a few inches b ~easurement, always should use the stable-knit slopers to draft anY
cause the cut ed 0 fi e ow the cut edge, be- styles with this fabric.
ge ten stretches.
 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON CHAPTER 1 5

3 STRETCHES TO 4 STRETCHES TO

MODERATE KNITS --
STRETCHY KNITS

If it comfortably stretches to 71/z'', it is a mod- If it comfortably stretches to 8:Y4', it is a

erate knit, with a stretch ratio of 50 percent. stretchy knit, with a stretch ratio of 75 percent.

6 STRETCHES TO
5 STRETCHES TO

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SUPER-STRETCH --- RIB KN ITS

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If it comfortably stretches to 10", it is a super-
stretch knit, with a stretch ratio of 100 percent.
If it comfortably stretches more than 10",
it is a rib knit, with a str etch ratio of over 100
percent .

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(I)

:tiI'll
S TRETCHES TO ~~()

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Ci:t: 8
7
4-WJ
STRETCH

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---
STRETCH WOVEN

If your fabric doesn't stretch at least 25

And if it stretches to 10" or more in both di- percent, to 6 Y4', then it should be treated as a
rections, it is a two-way-stretch knit: . . stretch woven.
If it bounces back, returns to Its ongmal
measur e ment when released, it is a four-way-
stretch knit.
----------------------~~
C~APTER 1 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON

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,// ......
//
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The Different Stretch Ratios I
and How to Use Them I
All of the block drafts in this text will be I
drafted in the largest stretch ratio, and a ll sub- off the stretch ratios, as you will definitely need 1
sequent ratios will be drawn on those blocks. them in the future. If you are working with
If your fabric is a moderate stretch ratio, then many knit fabrics, then it is a good idea to trace I
trace out those lines on the blocks to begin your out each individual stretch block on separate I
draft. If your fabric is super-stretch, then trace oak-tag. If you only use stretch fabrics occasion- 1
out those lines to begin your draft. Never cut ally, then simply indicate the stretch ratios on I
the block.
 STRETCH TEAMS AND JARGON CHAPTER 1 7

CF

Different Stretch Fits

Knit garments can be created with different vidual stretch block on separate oak-tag. If you
only use stretch fabrics occasionally, then indi-

•• waist fits. If you require a tight fit, trace out the

fitted waist. If you require an unfitted waist,
trace out that waist.
If you are working with many knit fabrics,
cate the different waists on the blocks .
If you require a fitted top, then trace out the
fitted waist. If you require an unfitted waist,
then it is a good idea to trace out each indi- trace out that waist.

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8 CHAPTER 1 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON

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Stretch Memory
Str·etch memory •·s the a mount that ah knit
. . 1 h a fter· being fully stretc e
d F will
. a
b . return to •ls
ncs with e
. ..•
orrgtna s ape
h
w ereas .a
t th · . .
lent memory will completely return ·rro err ongmal shalle.
r brics with poor· memory WI not retu rn to thei~. •
th b
tended shape and wi ll eventua 11y sag on e ~dy. With the
l<cej

'111. ••
use of Lycra ®• spandex • latex, and elastane, . knrl fabrics are
available with 100 perc~nt mlemtorty, mfteanb•~g they wi]] corn .
pletely return to their ongma s a e a er emg stretched. •••
Garment Ease ••
Garment ease is the amount of extra fabric required to allo
for a comfortable fit. Knit garments do not require as lllUc~
••
garment ease, because the mherent stretch of the fabric usu.
ally provides the necessary garment ease. ••
Negative Ease •
Negative ease is the amount of extra fabric removed, or re.
••
duced, to allow for an accurate fit. Many knits are lllade
smaller than the actual body and use the inherent stretch of
knit fabrics to achieve the desired fit.
••
Design Ease •• •
••
Design ease is the amount of extra fabric required to create' a
particular design. The designer may require a fit that is over·
sized or much larger than the body by increasing the amoum
of design ease. Shirring, gathering, and draped effects are all
•
created with design ease.
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Patternmaking Terms
SLOPER
A sloper, often referred to as a "block" or ~master pattern:
TOP SLOPER
FRONT
is a template of the desired fit, like a croquis: it doesn't h.s~
~ny seam a llowances or details. It is your basic fit. and from •
•
MEO It, many styles can be developed. Experienced patternmaker:l
do not start each pattern from scratch. but instead
the required sloper and add style lines and details as
001tra~
n~ •
•
It would be far too time-consuming, and expensiw, to beg~~~
each pattern from raw measurements.

•
 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON CHAPTER 1 9

1
2
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parallel

w
z
:::;
z
~
"'

•• GRAIN
The direction parallel to the selvage of the fab-
GRAINLINE
The grainline is a line on the pattern that indi-

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ric is referred to as the grain of the fabric. If
a garment is not cut exactly on grain, it will
twist on the body and be unwearable-and, ul-
cates in which direction the garment will hang,
and is needed to ensure that the garment is cut
on grain. The grainline should always be paral-
lel to the selvage when cutting out the garment .
timately, unsellable.
Since most knit fabrics h ave a nap, grainlines
I on stretch patterns should have both arrows
pointing in the same direction, one direction
I only, as illustrated. Blocks and slopers should
I not have any grainlines, because a fabric has

•
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not been assigned to the design yet and you
can't know in which direction it should be cut.

t 3
4
CF

t
waist notch

CROSS GRAIN
. . the grain that is perpendicular
Cross gram IS fi hip notch
to the length grain. Two-way-stretch and our-
ics may be cut on the cross
way-st ret ch f:abr · h t d·
. . the f:abric also stretches m t a 1-
gram smce . f: b ·
f ' Some fabrics such as swimwear a ncs NOTCHES
rec wn. t d so they stretch more in the length- Notches are small clips in the patter~ that in-
are
. crea
d. et" than the crosswise · d"Jrect"wn, a nd
dicate where two pieces of a garment hne up.
WISe JTeC JOn
should be cut accordingly.
 10 HAPTER1 STRETCHTERMSAN o JARGON

be used to indicate
In woqm patternmaking. notches ma~ th·s is not neces-
.•
the t:eam a llowances. But m. stre t ch fabnc 1"'" Remember
sary. because almost all seam. a llowru.1 ces
W'are 78 ·
or you will create ••
to keep all notches in knit fabncs w1thm 8 •
holes in your garments.
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CF
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drill holes
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for pocl<ets

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DRILL HOLES SHOULDER STAYS ••
Drill holes, or drill marks, are used to indicate
placements, such as where a pocket should line
up on a garment. Do not use a drill on knit fab-
Knit tops require shoulder stays, usually W'
twill tape to prevent the shoulders from stretch- ••
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ing out of shape. The twill tape may be applied
ric-it will cause the fabric to run. Mark the
while serging the seams or you may use a me-
fabric with an awl, or chalk marks. Often, loose
chalk is pushed into the drill holes of the pat- tering device to attach the tape to the shoul·
tern, one layer at a time, to transfer markings
to the garment.
ders. Sleeveless garments do not require twill
tape, since there is no weight pulling on the •
shoulders.
•
Sometimes clear elastic is used to stay the •
shoulders; it will not shrink with repeated
washings. However, clear elastic has a tendency ••
••
to grip the presser foot of the serger and should
be placed underneath the garment to allow the
feed dogs to pull the elastic forward with the
garment.
••
•
••
•
 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON CHAPTER 1 11

neckhne and
neckline stay shoulder stay

NECKLINE STAYS
Many knit garments require a neckline stay, or
tape to prevent the neckline from stretching.
The neckline tape is only applied to the back
neck. to allow the front to stretch large enough
to get the garment on the body.
If there is a zipper or other opening in the
front of the garment, the tape may completely
encircle the neckline. This is especially the case
when creating ribbed T-shirts.
As the rib collar is attached to the rib gar-
ment, it will often stretch out of shape and
needs to be returned to the original size and
held in place.
Sometimes the neckline stay and shoulder
stay are combined into one single tape that ex-
tends from the shoulder across the back neck
and along the other shoulder.
The illustration shows the single stitch-
ing line that holds the combined neckline and
shoulder tape.

BIAS
Bias is any pattern piece cut on an angle, with true bias being
the 45-degree angle to the straight grain. In woven fabrics the
greatest amount of stretch is on the bias; however, in knit fab-
rics the greatest amount of stretch is across. Therefore, bias
garments are never created with knit fabrics. Knit bias does
not have any of the stretch and drape characteristics that wo-
ven bias would impart to garments.

DRAFTING
Drafting is the process of creating a pattern on paper. The
sloper is traced out, the details added, and finally the neces-
sary seam allowances and notches are added.

PATTERN
A pattern is the finished template used to cut out the g~­
ments. It includes all the details that will eventually be m-
corporated into the design. It also includes all the seam al-
lowances and notches necessary for the construction of the
final garment. Final patterns should always be made from
oak-tag.
 C~ "'F'TER 1 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON

MATCHING SEAMS
tt . all sca ms should be matched l
ensure that they are t 1 e ,a 1
Before using any pa lei n~ ~ e length and will sew togeth 0
E
SKIRT FRONT
perfect)~·.
each
When
other.
er

marc h.mg "'·earns · t he pattems s hou ld be on top or

:,.,.
••
"'ED
CUT1

I •..
..
TRUEING SEAMS
Trueing seams is the process of matching a ll the seams of the
pattern. and checking that the lengths of seams match and
will sew together perfectly; that they intersect at a desirable
•.•
T·SH RT BA0<
MED
CUT1
hT·SHIRT FRONT
MED
CUT1
angle; and that a ll notches match. To true a seam, line up the
pieces as if they had been sewn and pressed open, beside each
other. Check to see that all intersecting lines and seams are
•
••
blended into smooth and continuous lines.
When trueing the side seams, make sure that the under-
arm curve is a smooth and continuous line. ••
•
Check that the hem is a smooth and continuous line.

•••
••
• .•
.•-
.To true the shoulders, line them up
beside each other, as if they h ad been
sewn and were pressed open. Ensure
t?at the neckline is a smooth a nd con-
tmuous line.
Chec~ that the armhole is a smooth
and contmuous line.
•
 STRETCH TERMS A N D J A R GO N C H A P TER 1 13

'
_:;:--- _.....~ \
S~E'"- 500,
.L_-
"""'""''"""
_....., c.a:~w -'""' l
-"
/
/
/
/

under layer of paper

MARKER MARKER PAPER

A marker is. a paper tra cing of the complete Ma rker paper or dot paper is specially printed
pattern that IS a pphed to the fabric and held in with a grid and numbers for the accurate lay-
place with pins, ~veights. staples, or lightweight ing of pattern pieces. The marker ma ker can
spray glue. a nd IS cut together with the fabric. simply follow the grid to ensure that a ll pattern
All markers should be made on gr a in so that pieces a re placed perfectly on grain.
when cut out, a ll the fabric pieces will be on
grai n. There should be a layer of paper under
the fabric to a id in cutting. There should also
be a layer of paper between each new color, to
prevent t he color a bove or below from sta in-
ing the fa bric as t he blade of the cutting knife
moves up a nd down.

MARKER TACKER
A marke r tacker is a type of st apler th at doesn't
have the bottom attach ment. It is used to staple
the m a r ker paper to the fabric lay, t o hold it in
place wh ile cut tin g. Never staple in a ny of the
ga rment pieces, bu t staple in a reas of the fabric
that will be discarded, waste fabric. Also, when
cutting out, be sure not to cut a staple or you
will create sparks, and greatly dull your knife
blade.

SPEC SHEET
A spec sh eet is a sh eet creat ed by the designer, All required seam allowances.
or spec t echnician, containing all the informa- Seam finishes.
tion the patternmaker needs to create the pat-
tern for a particular style. It should include: Hem allowances.
Any important construction notes.
A sketch, both front view and back view.
Fabric swatch.

SIZE SPECS and these measurements will be indicated

Size specs are the measurements of the man- in the size specs. (See Chapter 2: Sizing and
ufacturer's target market. Each manufacturer
Measurements.)
will create garments for a particular customer,
 14
CHAPTER 1 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON
t

~
PATTERN CARD
The pattern card or "must," is included with all finished • ,
th • ~
terns. It 1ists a ll ' the p1eces
· t h a t "rnus t" be cu t t o create Pat
garment. A ll finished patterns should have a pattern rnust. e ' • ~
• '

,.•
~
'

••
'

•
PATTERN PAPER ••
Pattern paper is any lightweight, inexpensive
paper that may be used for drafting patterns.
Do not draft directly on oak-tag, because it is
OAK-TAG
Oak-tag is a heavier weight of paper than that
used for drafting. Because it is thicker and
stiffer, it is much easier to trace around when
• •
·
•
difficult to fold back pleats, tucks, darts, or
seam alJowances for trueing. making markers, and/or tracing with wax •
or chalk. Only final and production patterns It
should be traced onto oak-t ag, because it is dif- •
ficult t o fold and crease.

PATTERN HOOKS ••
place punch hole near the center of the hem

0
All patterns should be hung on pattern hooks a nd stored when
not in use. ••
When punching holes for patterns, the hem is a more de-
sirable place to make the hole, because if the pattern rips or
tears while being stored, it is much easier to replace a portion
••
of the hem than to repair a torn-off neckline or waist. Place
the punch hole near the center of the pattern pieces so they
hang bala nced and do not swing.
••
COSTING SHEET
Th·1 ·
••
T-SHIRT FRONT
SMALL
CUT1
S IS a sheet created for each style in a collection, which
keeps an account of the costs needed to make the garment.
Each _style should have its own cost sheet. R emember that the
•
••
most Important part of a garment is the ''price tag-!

CF
PATTERN LABELING

Atllpahtten~smust be la beled with the style number, the

s rete ratw the size · 1· · ••
th d t ' • a gram me, the direction of cutting,
e ba 7 completed, the patternmaker's name and pattern
~mm~ ·
 STRETCH TERMS ANO JARGON CHIII'TI'II 1 15

'''"'nwnt manuf:.lctun' r., •'dent1(\

· ..::-tyle::- b~ styll' ntnnlwrs:
lOt)() bit> knits
!'(a
100 blousps/shirts 00 llw hu~t lwo digilH
:.woo mod«:>rate knits lsom«:>ti n1C's writl«:>n
~00 dre~!::l')$
in •·oman numeralR
3000 stretchy knits 300 pants to avoid confusion)
4000 !:uper-,:;tretch knits should rep•·e::;enl the
400 pckt'li< various styles within
5000 rib knib ,')00 ,;ku·t,; the collection.
6000 four-way-,;tretch knib l100 \' ('St~

Note that there are mu It·1p1e nwt h od;; of crt'att.ng ;;I Ylc num-
bers, .and t h e manufact urer t h at ~ou
. work fm· w1l1
. mo,:;t
· likclv
.
h ave Its own method ·

PATTERN NUMBERING
All pattern pieces of a particular stvle :;hould CF CF
be numbered , and should also include the to-
tal number of pattern pieces needed for the
garment. Use any one of these methods of
numbering.
. All the examples show the third pattern
p1ece for a garment with a total of four pattern
pieces needed to complete it.
Remember t.hat the marker maker and cut-
ter have not gone to fashion school, and do not
understand patterns, so they would noi realize
if a pattern piece is missing.
Often, a designer will trace a pattern piece
from a current style when creating a new
style. What would happen if the cutter cut out
thousands of garments with a pattern piece
missing?

RIGHT SIDE UP
R.S.U. stands for "Right Side Up" and should be
used for a ny asymmetrical patterns to en sure
that you always cut the correct side. The example
ASYMMETRICAL TOP ASYMMETRICAL TOP
shows a top with only one shoulder, and to ensure FRONT FRONT
that the back is cut with the matching shoulder, MED MED
CUT CUT
it must also b e labeled "Right Side Up." 1 1
The reverse side, or the back of the pattern, R.S.D.

\)·
R.S.U.
should be labeled R.S.D. for "Right Side Down."
Right side up and right side down patterns
should always b e labeled on both sides of the
pattern.
1 ~fJ>·
1
 16
l HAI'l l:R 1 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON

Color Coding
Black Self or main fabric.
Red Lining fabric.
Blue -I ld list the type of fusing.
Fusing. or interfacing. The pattern maker "'10u
Green Contrast or any secondary fabric. such as rib.
Purple Other contrast fabrics, etc.
Pink Other contrast fabrics, etc.
Brown Other contrast fabrics. etc.

I
// \

''
( \
\
I \
I \
I \
I \

'
I \
I

I
\
/
I
I
I
V-NECKTOP
t
I
I
I
LINING I
I
MED
CUT1

'
I
I
I
I l
JL
I
I
I
Some companies, usually those that only cre- I
I
ate stretch garments, may use colors to indicate I
~---- - ---
different sizes, because they will rarely use lin-
ing or interfacing. But if a company does both
woven and stretch garments, the woven format,
as above, should always take precedence in or- For companies that label sizes with colors,
der to avoid confusion. lining is indicated with a large letter "U' on the
pattern.
For companies that label sizes with colors
~use pattern pieces are indicated with diagonal
hnes drawn on the pattern piece.
 STRETCH TERM S AND JARGON CHAPTER 1 17

Types of Fit
Tht'n.>at·(' man , d "ffi
• ' } J erent types of fit that may be used to create
kmt garments, and each will be illustrated throughout the text.
The designer may speci.fY the fit, or the patternmaker must use
his o~ her own judgment and e}..'perience to determine the fit.
Fashton trends will also determine the fit. Some seasons will
require the fit to be very loose around the waist while other
seasons will demand that fit be much looser. Both.the designer
and the patternmaker must understand current fashion in or-
der to work effectively.
TIGHT FIT
Use the block exactly as drafted without increasing a ny of the
measurements. Most slopers and blocks in this text will be
drafted with the tight fit. While this fit may be too extreme,
or too tight for the final garment, it is always easier to create
a looser fit from a tight-fitting sloper than the reverse.
SEMI-FIT
A semi-fit is halfway between a tight and loose fit, slightly
looser around the waist a r ea, and is the most common fit. It
appears to have a lot of shaping and will appear like a fitted
silhouette, while still a llowing some room around the waist.
LOOSE FIT
A loose fit goes straight down from the bust to the hips, and is
generally only loose in the waist area.

OVERSIZED
Slash a nd spr ead the sloper to create a new oversize~ sloper
(illustrated in Chapter 11, Oversized Projects). Hood1es and
track suits are good examples of oversized gar_ments. You can-
not simply grade the garment into a larger s1~e, ?ecause the
neckline, cuffs, and hems would also increase m s1ze.

\'HAP tR 1
"'
Kr•t fabnc wt 1()(,1< 1ke th1s •llustrat•on
when VIewed 1rorr c.ne d"ect,on.
And It WI/I look like th•s when VIewed
from the Other direct 1on.
,.,..
STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON
'
C8
Cutting with Nap and Shine
Because of the \\ay knit:> are cJ·eatcd , a!l knits have a nap and
many kmt fabrics arc finished and pollsht'd lo create a Shine
or texture on the surface. Pattcmmakcrs must take lhis into
••
••
consider.1tJon and label the patterns acctwdmgly. lt would not
be acceptable to cut a g-arment with tlw f,·ont 1n on~ direction
and the back in tht' other. \\'hen the cuMo nwr tnes on the
garnwnt. 1t ,n1uld look ::~s if the front and back had been cut ~
w1th two diffc1·cnt fabrics.
~
Tlw pattcrnmakcr will crcat.e a gra inline ~~ith arrows
:Ia
pointing in tlw s::~me dircction to md1ca~c nap (as dlustrated).
Remcmber thnt becausc of the way kmts a rc made, there is
ahn1y 8 a slight nap to the fabric, and it should always be cut
••
accordingly.
••
1
Grainline with arrows pointing in one direction indicates
a .. napped or with shine" layout.
Knits a re made by interlocking loops from one row to the
next; therefore, all knits have a nap. While som e fabrics show
•••
.
this nap more than others do, it is a good habit to a lways label
•
your grainline with arrows going in one direction.
Unless you are absolutely certain that th e fabric has no
discernable difference, always use one directional a rrow on
your grain lines.
•
 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON CHAPTER 1 19

Direction of Knitting
Another thing to cons·d .
like pantyhose K .t f: 1be~ I S whether or not the fabric will run
that they were knit h. . us ua 11Y on1Y unravel ·m the direction'
· · nr a ncs
Consequently '~~:nrc1liS from the last row knit downward.
so that it runs u~wa d f placmg the pattern on th e fabric, place it
the neck The d r rom the hem rather than downward from
garment ·is beingownward
ulled pi acement wr.11 often stretch when the
and make it unself bl on, whrch can create a run in the fabric
a e.

INCORRECT DIRECTION OF THE GRAINLINE

INCORRECT
This i.s the incorrect way of laying the pattern on the fabric. The
neckhne rece1ves the most stretch and will a lmost always run.

CORRECT DIRECTION OF THE GRAINLINE

CORRECT
This is the correct way of laying the pattern on the fabric. The hem
r eceives the least amount of stress and will not run as easily.
If the fabric runs, the pattern should be labeled as "with nap,"
which should be indicated with single-direction arrows on the
pattern.
0

•.
~'HAf'l ER 1 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON
I

Greatest Degree of Stretch

CF
. _ tr·etch and four-way-stretch garrnents
When creatmg tw.o-way. s h slightly more than the other. E ' ••
greatest
degree perienced d1rectron st~etcWI.~stake this into consideration, an)(d.
usually onepatternmakers
••
•..
of stretch
use it to their benefit.
t.111 g dresses and tops • the greatest direction of
When crea d oing around the body. But for catsuits
be utt~Jze or~any garment that passes
. .
stretchd shouldd bodysu1ts . . through both'
1eotar s, an
the crotch and the s lou e d' d
1 ld b t.lized gomg up an
1 ' ld rs the greatest direction of stretch
own
the body.
. ••
.
e uh
s louUsually
.
t J e areat est de<Yree
knrt fabncs, sue as
reatest d1·rectron
1
"'
1
"'
swimsuit
of stretch is crosswJse;
fabrics ' are ·
.
spec1al1 Y
k however,
mt
·
ll l t th
· of s t retch going lengthwise, para eh o d e selvage·
to
sollle
have the ••
gl · IS
Tus · because the gannents pass through .
uncomfortable when the customer raises er s ou ers.
h the ld an would be
h crotc
Tops, dresses, pants, skirts, and sweaters should use the
•
I!
greatest
degree
CF greatest degree of stretch going around the bo?Y·
Bodysui·ts, catsuits , or any garment that IS anchored h . by the
••
of stretch crotch should have the greatest degree of stretc gomg up and
down the body. ••
Cutting Knits ••
The cutter should always let the fabric relax for 24 hours before
cutting. Often the goods have been stretched when they were I
rolled onto a bolt, as in the case when goods are purchased from I
•
jobbers who reroll the goods too tight when they check the quality.
Jobbers often stretch the fabric when rerolling it to get a better I
yield thereby make more money by shortchanging you! Always
double-check the width of goods before purchasing. In the indus-
try, cutters often make up the lay, leave it overnight. and cut the
goods the following morning. This ensures that the fabric bas re·
laxed back to its original length. Otherwise garments cut with
stretched out fabric may be smaller than intended.
Many manufacturers slice off the ends of the bolts to create
rolls of binding and trim, a nd sell any fabrics left over to jobbers.
Never assume that the goods are a standard width. Circular knit-
ted fabr~cs are sometimes cut open, and you cannot assume that
the fabnc has been cut on grain. So always check tl1e grain to
make sure it is accurate.
Ne~e~ allow the fabric to hang off the table. It will stretch and
result Ill maccurate cutting.
Knit garments are constructed with very small seam allow-
a~c~s, usually
mmimum or %",h so it is necessaru to keep all notches to
a d !l.t"·th·
n WI In t e seam allowance usuallv t ~ Otherwise
J
8
yo .ll
u WI create holes in the garment. , . , .
Wax or clay chalk · b · ·11
steam out f IS est for markmg knit. Wax marks ",
Clay marksoe n~:ural fibers, but will leave stains on svntheticS.
garment withS:Ipy can be brushed away. It is always ~ to rut a
aper marker.
 STRETCH TER M S AND JARGON
CF
Cutting Tubular Goods
When using tubular knits, never place any pat-
tern on the fold. It is often dirty or stained.
If a knit has a pressed-in fold or crease, it is
probably permanent and you will need to refold
the fabric to avoid placing a perma nent cr ease
in the center front or center back of your gar-
ment. To avoid these problems, manufacturers
never use the fold of th e fabr ic, but inst ead cut
a ll patter ns full a nd open. This, however, forces
them to cut an even number of garments only,
For a single item of clothing, r efol.d the
tubula r fa bric so the st a in or crease IS m the
C H APTER 1 21
CF
T-SHIRT FRONT
SMALL
CUT 1
which may not be practical for the student or
small manufacturer who may only wa nt a sin-
gle garment, or an odd number. So it is neces-
sary to r efold th e goods when cutting the front
and back of a garment. However, you may use
the original fold wh en cutting out th e sleeves,
because the crease will be discar ded.
Manufacturers cut patter ns full open so
that a blemish is not used i n a ny part of the
garment, but discarded as wast e.
center of the tube a nd will not be used in th e
garment.
 ~'HAI'iER 1 STR ETC H TERM S AND J AR GO N

).
~
,.,.
~

T-sHIRT FRONT T-SHIRT FRONT ,.

•••
SMALL
MED
CUT!
CUT!

j
'

~
••
..
Garments without Side Seams .
••
0 . ll knit tops are manufactured with-
ccasJOna '·
oot ~vmde- seam•- This is only ava1·1 bl ·f the
.a e 1 company Chooses to . ma .nufacture alld of Its ..
tops I
tubula~ fabric IS exactly the same Width as .the without side seams, It will have to.or er fabnc m 1
garment .\1anufacturers rarely create all Sizes exactly the widths needed for a ll_sizes. . •
of T-shJrt w1thout side seams-usually only Me- When cutting the Small Size garment, 1t
diUm ~;ize because it is the most common. Because will be necessary to have side seams, or the I
the side seams will be hidden under the arm, any manufacturer will h ave to order fabric in the 1
exact width.
permanent creasing will not show as much. If a

Pressing Knits
Kmt fabncs don't press very effectively and are
usually not pressed during constr uction. Most
pressing is done when the garment is complete,
to block and shape it and make the hems lie flat,
as well as to relax the stitching and elastic.
Knits fail to take a sharp crease. The way
th~t a knitted fabric presses depends primarily
on Its fiber content and stitch formation.
Acrylic is extremely sensitive to heat dam-
age and should never be touched by the iron. Ny-
lon and acetate are easily damaged by ironing
fiso be careful _not to leave the iron on the
or any duration off AI
fabri~
rKnJc . e ore I~onlllg the actual garment.
fab . b fi . . lrne. ways test a scrap of
It fabncs are fr tl
vacuum table Th. . eq~en . Y pressed on a
. IS ls an Ironmg board with a
powerful vacuum installed. The vacuum helps
prevent the garment from sliding off the iron-
ing board, as well as cools the garment immedi-
ately, which helps set the seams and block the
garment.
Most knit tops are pressed flat , and it is
preferable to store them fiat and folded rather
than on hangers, which will stretch the shoul-
ders and necklines out of shape.
Elastic should be steamed to help it to relax.
Often elastic is stretched out of shape during
the construction process and steaming helps it
return to its original size.
Fusible interfacing still requires dry
pressing.
 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON C HAPTER 1 23

Needles and Thread

1\Iost knit fabric~ can b _ .
which has a -J·g-htl e "ewn ustng a universal-point needle
" 1 b'" rounde d np
knits. It is- usual!v · that IS · SUitable
. for sewing·
a rounded tip that . etter to U-"e
- a ball pom nee e. w h"1ch has
. t dl
the fabric yarns. penetrates the f a bnc · Wit· 11out puncturing
Knit garments need <::tron d .
use good-qualitv polve - g an elast1c seams, so alwa~·s
· - ster or cotton-wrapped polyester thread.
WOOLLY NYLON
Woollybut
!axed. nvlon a multifil
get::.j,;-thin wh ament thread _that is puffy when re-
two loopers ofth - en stretched. It ts often used on one or
c"all [; d.. e :>erger to create a soft and elastic seam espe-
1 y or ance and gymnastic garments in which harsh ~earns
can create
be used · ca!Ju,es
h · on the \\earer. · \\Toolly nylon thread can also
· m t e botto~1 looper of the cover-stitch machine or col-
1arette ~achme. This thread is rarely used in the needles be-
cause ~f 1ts tendency to bunch up and the difficult it os~s in
threadmg the needles. Y p

Interfacing
Knit garments don't require as much interfacing as woven
garments, because the interfacing will prevent the fabric
from stretching. Sometimes a garment may need to be inter-
faced to prevent certain areas from str etching, such as the
seam a llowances for zippers, facings, a nd front plackets for
buttonholes.
Styles with facings are not meant to stret ch at the facing
edge, and need t o be cut larger for the h ead to pass through .
Facings and interfacings may only be used on garments that
have a la rge enough neckline to fit over the head without
stretching or styles that have a zipper or button closing.
Tricot interfacing has a crosswise stretch a nd no length-
wise stretch. For best results, use tricot fusing so it stretches
as needed. Sometimes the designer will need to control the
lengthwise str etch and sometimes the crosswise stretch. Tri-
cot interfacing can also be used to stabilize zipper seam al-
lowances to prevent stretching during application.
Tricot fusing is an excellent choice for most knit fabrics,
because knit fabrics are not flat compared to woven fabrics,
and tricot fusing can stretch into the minute crevices of the
fabrics . It therefore gives better adhesion and won't pucker or
bubble the way that a Pellon or a woven fusing might.

Block Fusing
Loosely knit fabrics are occasionally "block" fused with tricot.
Block fusing is when the goods are entirely f~sed before bei~g
cut out. They are used to stabilize a loosely kn1t or woven fabnc.
24
CHAPTER 1 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON

Zippers
Knit garments rarely need zippers, because most garlllen •
tepped into or pulled over the head. Bow ~
can oft en be S . d . e"er
the designer will sometimes ~se zippers as a esi?n detail'
. zipper m a hooded .sweatshirt • 0 r e~.,
sueh as a cente r front
posed teeth zippers m track pants, or we1t Zippers for neckline
openings or pockets. . . .
Always try to eliminate functwnal zippers If ~he fabric has
enough stretch and the garment can be stepJ?ed m~o or PUlled
over the head. This may not a lways be possible With catsui I
4
and other garments that pass throu~h the crotch., If a zipper 1
is necessary, use invisi~le zippers, smce they don t have any I
topstitching on the outs1d~, w~1ch ~akes them easy to sew in I
knit fabrics because topsbtchmg will stretch the fabric. The
key to invisible zipper applications is to use a zipper that is at I
least 1 Y2 inches longer than the zipper opening, or to change t
the length of the opening to be 11/2 inches shorter than the zip.
per. If you use a zipper that is the same length as the opening,
it is not possible to sew the very bottom of the zipper because
the slider gets in the way. With a longer zipper you can place
the excess length at the bottom of the zipper. Use a 1!2-inch
seam a llowa nce for invisible zippers.

Shrinkage
Shrinkage refers to the reduction in width and length of the 1

garment, or both, that happens when a fabric is washed or

dry-cleaned. There are different methods of compensating for
shrinkage, and each depends on the way the fabric was dyed
and its ultimate use.

How to Compensate a Pattern

for Shrinkage
PRESHRINKING
The f: b ·
. a nc can be purchased preshrunk or prewashed to
shrmk before cutting out the garment. Also, the manufac-
turer can send the fabric out to be "sponged'' or preshrunk.
COMPACTING
The f: b ·
th ~ .ncs are compressed at the mill the amount equal to
e st rkmka~e. The manufacturer can c~t and sew these
m ens nowmg th t h •'-"'r
gtt:
intended Slze.
. a w en washed they will return to u..-
 STRETCH TERM S AND JARGO N C HAPTER 1 25

PATTERN COMPENSATION new

The patternmaker s· enlarged pal\orn
washes and dries thtmply cuts out all of the ar .
nal pattern to measu~';t'hthetht places them ba~k :~e~l~epte~cs,
larged t 0 compensate Th'e s nnka ge. The new pattern mtgi- · en-
" ' 1II be dyed, or washed
· aft
ts method IS
· ':'sed for garmentststhat
er construction
SANFORIZED .
Sanforized is a trademar ked proce
. bearing
a ncs this trad .ss of sItrinking the fabric
F b
percent because they h ebmark will not shrink more than i
· shrinkage. ave een sub·e
press1ve ~ ct ed to a method of com-
RESIDUAL SHRINKAGE
Residual
that occursshrinkage
in the t b indicat
· f es the percentage of shrinkage
a nc a ter 1ts first washing.
PROGRESSIVE SHRINKAGE
Progressive shrinkage is th h .
garment upon each subsequeenst was
nnhkage
mg. that may occur in a

Testing for Shrinkage

You sho_uld shrink test every fabric by drawing a 20" X 20"
square m the center of the fabric-always in the center be-
c~use ~here IS u sually some variation towards the edges, espe-
cwlly 1fthe goods h ave been split open or treated in some way.
~reate a cardboard t emplate of the square for testing every
smgle dye lot.
. Do this, a lso, to .check torque on the goods, that annoying
thmg that happens 1f you buy a cheap T-shirt and your seams
end up twisting a fter washing. Many times goods will be re-
jected if they have more than 5 percent torque and 5 percent
shrinkage.
Some fabrics are worse than others for torque, such as
jersey knits and a ny variation like eyelets or anything with
a drop needle like poor boy ribs. Interlocks are terrible for
shrinkage. Even after compacting, interlock fabrics can have
5 to 6 percent shrinkage.
After washing and drying the square, measure how much
the fabric has shrunk in length and width and make a new
pattern based on these percentages. Do this with every lot of
fabric. You must make multiple patterns if there is a lot of
variation in the dye lots; for example, there may be a pattern
for a top with shrinkage of 6 percent length and 2 percent
width and another for the same top with shrinkage of 4 per-
cent l~ngth and 1 percent width.
Alternatively you can wash a garment that has been
made from the g~ods
that have not been tested initially, then
measure the overall garment shrinkage in various areas. For
'HAI'l ER 1 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON

· t ]en g tl'l l
n ay s hrink more lhan lb
d · h ~
,.,.,.
- Je the center f Jon 1 l1as a ll that thrca In t e sea,
ex amp ·
arm ~
1
]10] ~ because t Je •
.1 rm ho e
. k ' n"ors
to keep it ft·om shnn. t ~·the final garment .. o t
y,
tr·etchi n g. ou mu
st c
ompensat
S '('th
for this in the pattet n fo t the majority of Jt m the area frolll
·- 6 percent. pu
··•s
e overall
e
••
-J1 rinkage t::. l to the h e m. ~
"the bottom - o f t 11C a nn 110 e
••
Shrinkage Template
A :W-inch template I.S woe
_ d because it is easy to multtply by
.
••
to get the percentages.

Dyeing Knits
5

••
I I:
The metI10d o f dYe1.ng will affect the amount
t' of shrinkage
d t
also t I1e metl10d and amount of compensa 10n use o correct
the fit.
and
••
STOCK DYEING
The raw materials, the fibers, are dyed before _being spun into •
varn. They will have the most amount of shrmkage but also
~ill produce the most color saturation. Stock dyeing is called
"solution" dyeing when synthetic fibers are involved. One ad-
vantage of dyeing raw fiber stock is that different colors or ••
shades can later be spun together to create complex yarns .
SOLUTION DYEING ••
Some manmade fibers are dyed by adding colors to the poly-
mer before they are spun. These colors are fast and durable.
Solution dyeing is also called dope-dyeing.
••
YARN DYEING I
The yarn is dyed before knitting and will have a lot of shrink- 1
a.ge but also great color saturation. Yarn dyeing allows fab-
•
nc to be c~eated from yarns of different color, allowing Jac- a
quards, F~Ir Isles, plaids, brocades, and other knit-in designs. I
Sp~ce dyemg, a variation of yarn dyeing, is a technique in I
whiCh yar~s are dyed at intervals along their length. One
problem With yarn dy· · "b , . . f I
th . mg Is arre, m which some areas o
edyarn might be slightly different shades of the same color I
an not obvious wh k · I
eas might coincid en u? l1Itted. But when knitted, these ar-
different sha de. ently hne up to create blocks of an obviously 1
PIECE DYEING I
The fabric is dyed after kni . . . I
age of the complet d ttmg, Which results in less shnnk-
dyeing includi'ng ue garment. Problems associated with piece I
t· neven sh · k
Ion. Piece dyeing is al rm age and uneven dye satura- I
so ca11ed vat dyeing.
 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON CHAPTER 1 27

GARMENT DYEING
Th<' gunnent 1s dyed after cut .
turers stock und ~.e d garments tmg call and
d sewi. 11 g. •~~ any mnnuf3 c-
them as needed according the' , e g~elge goods. and will dv('
manufacturer mu"t compen,ate _ cu:;fitomer
or an .s -1
tastes
. and w:mt,, ~- TiPc
compI.e t e d garment
. will s h nn · k· ven·' li~ ~ 1 rmka"'e
" so thnt
· tl1e
ta k e mto con:;1deratJon the f h · tt1e. The de:;ignt'r must
must also shrink and d\·e , · a~ltary. 71
tl at threads. trims. nnd - p'>"l'"
• ,::,lffil r-"- ..

DYE LOTS
Every fabric when dved is giv
fabric ha,·e the ~am~ dn• lot en ~ dye lot number. If two boll:> of
dyed at the same time. in th n~m er, It 1::; because th('y \\l'l'(' both
· e ::oamt• dve ;;olufo
1 Th
a ric mav have a different d . · • n. e n('xt boll of
f:a b1.flierent· bath. Each d,·e t ~e. 1ot
.
numbe•· b('c
.
·t
· . ause 1 was ycd m
d .
d · 10 'ane:; shghtlv m col d
cannot be cut from different dv 10 t , ·D.ffi 1
· or, an garm('nls
differentlY as well and e · e s. erent dye lots often shrink
· · ' very one must be tested for shrinkage.
GREIGE GARMENTS
tUndyed
d fabrics
· are
d called "greige·., Oft en garments
. are manufac-
ure grelge. an not dyed or colored until after being sewn This
way the man~facturer may stock the needed garments a~d not
dye them until they are certain that any color is popular. This
greatly reduces the production lead-time. The greige garment
may be dyed an} color the designer wants.

Ready to Dye
Na~ural cotton, after weaving and washing, is an off-white color,
a hght shade of ecru or cream. Normally, if the fabric is to be
dyed, it goes straight to the dyer at that point. If it is to be sold as
bleached fabric or made into "white" clothing, it is first bleached,
then washed, then often treated with optic white ners and washed
again. Optic whiteners are kind of like a white dye. While tech-
nically ther e is no such thing as a white dye, the optic wh iteners
occupy, on a molecular level, the same spaces as dyes do. There-
fore, unbleached fabrics are said to take dyes better than white or
optically whitened fabric.

PREPARED FOR DYEING (PFD) GARMENTS

PFD garments h ave h ad no whiteners added and a re actually an
off-white in color. They must be sewn with cotton thread (so the
stit ching dyes t he same color), and are usually cut oversize based
on the understanding that the garment is going to be dyed a nd
will shrink.
This u sually means:
a. There are no starches, sizing, or finishes applied to the fab-
ric that could interfere with the dyeing.
b. The garment is sewn with cotton threa~.
c. The item is cut oversize to allow for shnnkage.
 ....
28
CHAPTER 1 STRETCH TERMS AND JARGON

Exercise #1: Study a Knit Garment

Each student brings one stretch garment. to. class anct studi . .
that garment to determine its charactenst1cs, then PrePares . .
a report on this garment covenng: ~

The direction(s) it stretches. ••

Whether it is a one-way, two-way, or four-way-stretch
garment. ••
The stretch ratio.
Whether or not it has memory. ••
Its design ease, negative ease, garment ease.
The estimated amount of garment and design ease in the
••
garment.
Whether the fit is tight, semi-fit, unfitted, or oversized.
••
The direction of the knitting stitches. ••
The fabric's nap or shine (or lack thereof).
The greatest direction of stretch (for four-way-stretch
fabrics).
••
The kind of seam a nd hem finishes, a nd equipment used. ••
•••
How it was dyed.

Test Your Knowledge of the

Material in This Chapter
1. What is a one-way-stretch fabric?
••
2. What is a two-way-stretch fabric?
3. What is a four-way-stretch fabric?
4. Define the term "stretch factor."
I
•
5. Define the term "stretch memory." I
6.
Define the term "direction of stretch." I
7. What is a sloper or block?
8. What is a spec sheet?
9. What is a costing sheet?
•..
10. What is a pattern must?
11.
What are the three different m ethods to create a
••
sweater?
12. What is a rib knit? ••
•
I
 CHAPTER 2

Sizing and Measurements

About This Chapter

You may have noticed that you do not fit the same size gar-
ment from one manufacturer to another or from one country
to the next. While this might be confusing at times, some of
the reasons for it become obvious when you look at the follow-
ing chapter. There is no true standard size or industry rule,
and each designer must fit a company's size specifications to
their target market and company requirements. A designer
with a very young market will have tighter-fitting clothing,
because younger customers have tighter, slimmer bodies, and
generally they like to show them off. Some American man-
ufacturers offer garments with larger and higher busts, be-
cause of the proliferation of breast implants, which affects
size specifications.
The student designer or beginner may have trouble grasp-
ing the sizing concepts. The main idea to under~tan_d is that a
designer may place any size tag that he/she des1res mto a gar-
ment. However, some simple guides do apply; see the charts
that follow.

Sizing Categories
Clothing sizes depend on both height and figure type.
Note that some of the size ranges over-
lap because most knit manufacturers
'
create ·
a range of five sizes. I n wo -
ven these sizes will only fit a small
'
percentage of the popu1a t"wn, but
in knit, the ranges will overlap,
because alphabet sizes-E~tra
Small (XS), Small (S), Medmm
(M), Large (L), and Extr~ Large
(XL)-skip every other size.
,lQ

Pet1te
CHAPTER 2

2P-14P
SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS

4 11 " to 54· Women With a small frame with a slightly smaller bust and hlp
than the JUnior s1ze range.
-.....
..•
Proportioned for women 4'11" to 5'4" tall, with shorter arms I
6
and overall garment length, cut smaller across the back as' Qa,
weu
Jun1or 5-7-9-11-13-15 52' to 56" O dd-numbered siz1ng for young wome. n w1th a h1gh bust · srnau·
wa 1st, narrow bottom. and a slender f1gure

••
M•sses 6-8-10-12-14-16-18 55 to 5'8' Even-numbered sizing for the average-proportiOned body t
Most des 1gner collections are created 1n th1s SIZe range. YPe.

M1sses Tall 6-8-10-12-14-16-18 5'8" to 6 1" Even-numbered sizing for taller women of average proportions.

Women's 16W-32W 55" to 59' Well-proportioned women with a fuller stomach and a lower b
line. and extra weight in the upper arms and upper back. A ~1•
or 18W has broader fit through the top than a M1sses 16 or 18.
16 •
Half S1ze 14 . -30 ' Under 5·5·· Half Sizes were a popular subd1v1si~n of the M1sses category
(starting at 14 '12 and go1ng up to 30 12). But th1s SIZe has been
replaced by Women and Petite sizing.
Any size with a •;, in the sizing is for older and shorter women
with a heavier body type. A Half Size is somewhat shorter than
Misses size and a bit fuller and rounder. a
Plus S1ze 16-3~ 55" to 5'9" This size range is for larger or full-figured women. Plus Size
clothing is fuller through the waist, back, thighs, and arms.
Metnc S.zmg Rougt'ily eqwvalent to the bust measurement, because if the bust fits, most waist, hip, and length
alterat1ons are easy to complete.

••
Size Changes
Size labels are often ch anged and may not correspond to these
charts. s.ome of the reasons become clear when viewing the
next sectwn.

Designer Fitting
Often designers will ch .
d . ange or customize their slopers to ac-
c?mmo ate the particular fit of their customers If the de-
Signer has a very yo ·
h 1· ung customer, h e or she may reduce the
P measurement to d
tocks and b accommo ate smaller and higher but-
' reasts · WI'th
eveningwear ·u '· or . designers wh o work pnmanly
·
should then mw~ reqmre a much tighter fit. Each designer
target market rae e ~ny changes to size specifications that the
qmres.

Vanity Sizing
Vanit! sizing is also referr d . . .
ers will place a smaller labe I .to as Size shifting. Often desigtl·
~mer, who is much more li~ 10 the garment to flatter the cus·
h~t makes her think th ely to buy a garment with a label
gamed. at she has lost weight, rather thaD
 SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS CHAPTER 2
31

Eveningwear
En't1111I!WC'ar
. will alwa\" . . fi t tight
.
dot h lllf!. and it i..: much. more ex - er than oth·'r~ catef!one-
. 0f
bt?ad~·d eYemng gown · ~
· penstve to alter a >equmed
. or

Catalogue
Catalogue clothes
· are lab
' e 1e d ,;rnaller
t ·at t h ey will generate ~e,··e
' r return,:; ·Th " · ~.
or crealL·d \anTL'r
0
h
wtth a garment that\ a little t 00 b. · · e _cu,;tonwr \nll hw
garment that i;; too tight. tg. but wtll alwn~·:; n'turn a

French Sizing
French wom<·n prefu to wea 10 tl 1.
than :\orth American women dro.c ung that " a lot tighter

Italian Sizing
Italian women prefer clothing that is very snug at the h 1. d
buttocks. P an

German Sizing
German women are a Jot taller a nd larger than most women
:rom other countries, and the clothing designed in Germa ny
ts therefore larger than that of many other countries.

American Sizing
America ns t end to be more muscular tha n other countries,
with larger back s and smaller waist s; therefore, the clothes
must be able to accommodate these bodies. ln addition, more
Americans work than their European counterparts, and they
need to be able to move in their clothing.

European New Sizing

1-2-3 sizing category that is roughly equivalent to American

8-M-L.

One Size Fits All

Th . h thing as "one size fits all" no matter bow
erhe IS nod su~ d' Clothing labeled as one size fits all, in
roue span ex IS use .
fact, doesn't fit anyone properly.
 SIZE COMPARISON CHART
Use this chart to compare sizing of different categories and different countries.
M isses
"'
N

Knit size Extr a Small ()

Sma ll Medium %
Size 0 2 Large Extra Large )>
4 6 8 10 Extra Extra Large
Bust
12 14 16 18 20
"0
30 '12 31 1/2 22 -i
32'12 33 '12 34 '12 35 '12 m
Waist 22 112 23 1/2 24 1/2 37 38'12 40 41 '12 :tJ
Hips 25 112 26 '12 27 '12 43'12 45 '12
33 '12 34 1/2 29 30 112 32 33 '1.
N
35 1/2 36 /2 1
37 /2 1
38 '/• 35 '12 37 '12
Crotch depth 10 1/2 10 % 40 41 '12 43 44 '12
10% 10 7/s 11 11 1/s 11 •;, 46 '12 48 '12 (J)

Petite
11 % 11 1/2 11 % 11 '!. 11 7/s E!z
Knit s ize
Size
Extra Small
Op 2p 4p
Small
6p 8p
M edium Large Extra Large Extra Extra Large
"z
)>

10p 12p 14p c

16p 18p 20p 22p
Bust 31 '!. 32 1/ 2 3 3 '1• 34'12 3:
Waist
35 112 37 38 '12 40 m
23 '12 24 '12 25'1• 26 /2 1 41 '12 43 45 47
27 '12 29 30 112 32 )>
Hips 34 '12 36 112 33 '12 35 37 39 (J)
35 '12 37 1/2 38 '1. 40 41 112 c
Crotch depth 10 'Is 43 44 112 46 48 50
10 '/ • 10% 10 1/2 10 % 10 % 10 7/s 11
:tJ
m
11 '/a 11 1/ . 11 % 11 112
Junior 3:
m
Knit size z
Ex tra Small Sma ll Medium -i
Size Large Extra Large Extra Extra Large (J)
3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 24
Bust 32 33 34 35 36 37.5 39 40.5 42 43.5 45.5 47.5
Waist 25 26 27 28 29 30.5 32 33.5 35 36.5 38.5 40.5
Hips 35 36 37 38 39 40.5 42 43.5 45 46.5 48.5 50.5
Crotch depth 10.24 10.365 10.49 10.6 15 10.74 10.865 10.99 11.115 11.24 11.365 11 .49 11 .615

......-
...._ Tal
Knit size Extra Small Sma ll M edium Large Extra Large Extra Extra Large
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
32 1/2 3 3'12 34 1/2 35 12 1
36 1/2 38 39 '12 41 42 '12 44 45 11
2 47
Wllllt 24 1/2 2 5 112 26 112 27'12 28 112 30 31 '12 33 34 '12 36 37 1 '2 39
35 1/2 3 6 '12 37 1/2 38 '12 39 '12 41 42 '12 44 45 112 47 48 '·, 50
Cralich depth 11 1/ · 11 % 11 1/2 11 % 11 '1. 11 % 12 12 1/s 12'/• 12 3/s 12 ' ' 12%

Extra Small Sm a ll M e dium Large Extra Large Extra Extra Large

18w 18w 2 0w 22 w 24 w 26 w 28w 30w 32w 34w 16 w 24

43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59 61 63 65
35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57
46 48 &0 b2 b4 56 58 60 62 G.J 66 68
"'" 'I.. '\3 " 1• 1 b •;.. 1 1'/.. 1 0 '/.. ? 1 y,. 23 ' . 25... 27".. 2 9 .. 4 3 1.75 3 3 .75
(contmued)

Half Sizes -- - -~

Knit size Extra Small Small Medium l arge Extra l arge

Size 14 '12 16 112 18 112 20 112 22 '12 24 112 Extra Extra Large
26 112 28 'h 30 '12
- 32 '12 34'12 24
Bust 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59
-
Waist 32 112 34 '12 36 '12 38 '12 40 '· 42'·• 61 63
44 1 46 1'1 48'h 50 •;,
Hips 44 46 48 50 52 54 52.5 54.5
56 58 60 62
Crotch depth 11 1/e 13 1/a 15 1/a 17 11e 19 1/e 64 66
21 1/a 23 1/o 25'/o 27 1/o 29'/e 31.125 33.125
Plus Sizes
Knit size Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large Extra Extra Large
Size 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 36
Bust 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59 61 63
Waist 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55
Hips 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66
Crotch depth 11 % 13 % 15% 17% 19 % 21 % 23 % 25 % 27% 29 % 31% 33%
--
Other Sizing
Metric 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 46 50 52

France 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 6 8 10 12
Italy 2 0 2 4 6 8 0 12 14 16 18 20 ~
Germany -4 -2 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 ~
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 z
Vanity sizing - 6 -4 -2 0 Cl
European equivalent 0 1 2 3 4 5 :t>
z
to S-M-L 0
;::
m
:t>
(/)
c
ll
m
;::
m
z
-1
(/)

0
:I:
:t>
"0
-1
m
ll

"'
to)
to)
 34 CHAf"TER 2 SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS
.,..,.'
How to Take Measurements
d e in the Misses si ze ran ge
.,..,.
The measurem ents include! a~own m easurem ent s with th' 80
pare t 1e11 ose
that students ca n com C mpar e your m easurem ents w·th ~

•••
taken fr·om t h e dress-f~r:~m~ne the size of your dress-for1lll
the ones provtded to e k . g measurements correctly. '
and to ch eck if yo u ar e ta tn

••
l
~P~
·"'.._, ,..
..
~ -.~~
)

•••
\ ••
••
••
••
#1 BUST
••
Stand on the side of the model with the arms down, and
measure all the way around the fullest part of the chest. Then
#2WAIST

Measure around the smallest part of the waist. Do not ptll •

•
•••
have the model take a deep breath and let it out, while you the tape too tight, but keep it comfortably relaxed.
hold the tape measure. Record the largest measurement.
#1 BUST

~ze Extra Small S 11 M

Extra Extra Large
43 '·8 45'•
••
45
45 6 "6
6
47
47' ,.
47
••
•••
45 ·••
63 65
61 63
61 63
ay e changed to suit your particular target customer.

large
Extra large Extra Extra LAI9'
••
29
30 '12
30 '12
31 '12
30 '12
32
32
33
32
33 ··~
33 'h
34 /~
1
33 1 ':1
35
35
36
35 '.<:
37
36 '.'t
37 'h
37. :
39
38 'h
39
••
-----------~--~~--_::___~~--~~--~~~5~~:2--~4;6~'~h~_;48~'n~_Jso~~:__J52~,~~~~5';[~
47 49 51 53 55 57

47 49 51 53 • __ , __
 SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS C HAPTER 2 35

_ _ J..
\\
\

#3 HIP #4 CROTCH DEPTH

Measure around the widest part of the hip, slide the tape
up and down to make sure that you record the largest
measurement.
The hip is approximately 7-8" down from the waist.
The crotc h depth measurement may be taken in three ways:
1. When standing, from the front waist to the back waist,
passing through the entire crotch area. Divide that number
by 2.
2. With the customer seated, take the measurement from
the top of the chair seat up to the waist level.
3. Use an " L" square ruler and measure from the crotch up
to the waist level.

#3 HIP
Larg e Extra Large Extra Extra Large
Small Medium
Size Extra Small
40 41 'Is 43 44 '1s 46 4/s 48 ' s
34'1s 35 4ls 36 '1s 37 4ls 38'1s
Misses 33% 41 sl16 43 44 sl,. 46 48 50
36sl,s 37 sl16 38sl,. 40
Petite 34sl16 35s1,.
39 40 sl•• 42 43sl,. 45 46sl16
48
5
so•--·
35 36 37 38 48'• s•• 50
Junior 41 42 '1s 44 45 '1s 47
35 '1s 36 '1s 37 '1s 38 41s 39'1s
66 68
Misses tall 56 58 60 62 64
48 50 52 54 66
Women's 46 56 58 60 62 64
48 50 52 54
Half size 44 46 58 60 62 64 66
50 52 54 56
Plus size 44 46 48

#4 CROTCH DEPTH Extra Large Extra Extra Large

Medium Large
Small
Size Extra Small
10% 10% 10 71 11 11 1• 11 2 5
10 4ls •
10 10 1ls 10% 10% 11 2 .,. 11 ' ,. 11 $ 5 11 ' '
Misses 9 '1s
10 61•• 10s1,. 10 101•• 10 121•• 10 "1•• 11
11 4 .,. 6 11 8n 6 11 10 .•
Petite 10 21•• 10 ' I •s
10 121•• 10 141•• 11 11 21•• 11 3•••
10 61•• 10 61•• 10 101•• 2 12 •• 4
12 '8 12''o
Junior 10'1•• 11 % 11 'lo 12 12'1• 12 ·•
11 % 11 % 11 'I• 11 %
23% 25% 27 8 to 29% 31 "'" 33618
Misses tall 17 % 19% 21% 33' .•
29 '•• 31 .••
1 2
13 % 15% 25 '1•• 27 't,.
Women 's 11 % 17 21•• 19 21•• 21 2118 23 21·•
15 21•• 25 10/ 18 27 10/le 29'o;,. 31 10/•o 33 "' ...
Half size 11 •;,. 13 2116
17 101•• 19 161•• 21 ••; ,. 23 ' 01··
13 ' 0/ •o 15 101••
PIUS SIZe 11 10/ ••
 ,~~ HAF'TLR 2 SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS

••
l

•,.
,.
•,.
••
'
••
••
••
••
15 WAIST TO KNEE
#6 WAIST TO ANKLE ••
From tt _ ~- ,...a.., hold the tape at the waist and mea-
sure to :he 'n<-e level
From the side seam, hold the tape at the waist and mea-
sure to the bottom of the ankle bone. ••
15 WAIST TO KNEE ••
Stze
Extra Small
2 4 6
Small

8 10
Medium

12 14
Large

16
Extra Large

18 20
Extra Ext ra Large

22 24 ••
••
Mt~ses 20 23 23 'a 23 2/e 23% 23'/e 23% 23 % 23% 24 1
24 /e 24'1a
Pet•te 21 /a 21'1: 21 '/a 21 >;. 21 7/a 22
Juntor
22 1/e 22'/• 22 % 22'12 22 % 22 3/•
22 /a 23 23 '• 23% 23% 23 4/e
Mtsses tall 24'/o
23% 23% 23 7/a 24 24 1/a 24%
24%

••
24 Is 25 25'/s 25% 25%
Women·s 24 24 .
25% 25 % 25 % 25 7/e 26
24 7/e 24% 24 4/e 24% 24% 24 7/a 25%
Half stze 22 1/a 22' 25 25 1/e 25%
22 '1. 22 a/e 22 7/e 23 23 1/a 23 %
Plus stze 24 24 lo 24 % 23 % 23 4/a 23% 23'/•
24%

••
24 'le 24 % 24 % 24 7/e 25 25 1/a 25% 25%

•
#6 WAIST TO ANKLE

••
Extra Small Small Mediu m L arge
Size 2 E xtra Large Extra Ext ra Large
4 6 8 10 12 14
Misses 38'/s 16 18 20 22 24
38'/e
Petite
Junior
Misses tall
36%
38 '/s
40 7/e
36 7/e
38'/e
41 1/a
38%
37 '/a
38%
41 %
39
37 %
39
39 %
37 %
39%
39%
37 7/a
39'/a
39%
38 1/a
39 %
40
38 %
40%
38 %
40'/a
38 7/a
40 %
39 1/a
41
39% ••
•
Women's 41 % 41 7/e 40 40 % 40 '/a 40% 41
38 % 38% 38 7/a 42 1/e 42%
Half size 37% 39 39 1/e 42 % 42 7/a 43 '/a 43% 43 511
37% 37'/e 39% 39 %
Pius size 39% 37 % 37% 39'/a 39 % 39% 39 7/e 40
39% 39 7/a 37 '!. 38
40 40 1/e 38 1/a 38% 38% 38'/a 38 511
40 % 40 % 40 '/a 40 % 40% 40'1a 41
SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS CHAPTER 2 37
 , ,.,.
,..,.
' It I' H L SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS

.,..,.
- .,.
~
••
,

•
••
••.
••
119 FRONT CROTCH EXTENSION
The front ~..rotcr e•te'1SI01'1 IS not a direct body measure-
#10 BACK CROTCH EXTENSION
The back crotch extension is not a direct body measure- •I
ment, but IS necessary for drafting pants.
The front crotch measurement IS one-thtrd of the front hip
draft measurement
ment, but is necessary for drafting pants.
The back crotch measurement is o ne-fourth of the front
hip measurement.
•
I
I
I
119 FRONT CROTCH EXTENSION
Extra Small Small Medium Large Extr a Large Extra Extra Large
Size 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24
M1sses 2' 2 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2 /s
7
3
Pelite 2 2 '8 2% 2% 2% 2'1s 2% 2% 2% 2 7/s 3 3'/s
Junior 2 la2
2% 2% 2% 2% 2'1s 2% 2% 2 71s 2 71s 3 3'/s
M1sses tall 22. 2% 2% 2% 2'1s 2% 2% 2% 2 7ls 3 3 3'/s
Women 's 271s 3 'Ia 3% 3% 3 71a 4 'Is
Half size 2% 4% 4% 4 71a 5 'Is 5% 5%
3 3% 3% 3% 4 4%
Plus SIZe 2% 4% 4% 5 5% 5%
3 3% 3% 3% 4 4% 4'1e 4% 5 5% 5'/s

#10 BACK CROTCH EXTENSION

Extra Small Small Medi um Large
Size Extra Large Extra Extra Large
2 4 6 8 10 12 14
Misses 16 18 20 22 24
2% 2 71s 3
Petite 2 71s 3 3 'Is 3%
3 3 3% 3% 3% 3% 3 la7 4
Junior 2 71s 3 '1s 3% 3%
3 3 'Is 3% 3% 3% 3 71s 4 4 1/a
Misses tall 3 3 '1s 3% 3%
3 3 11s 3% 3% 3% 3 71a 4 4 2/a
Women's 3 71a 3% 3% 3%
4 4 'Is 4% 3% 3% 3% 3% 4 1/8
Half size 3% 4% 4% 4
3'1e 4 4 'Is 4 71a 5 5'1a s ~/1
Plus size 3% 7 4% 4 41s 5% 5•/e
3 1a 4 4 'Is 4% 4% 5 s •~e
4% 4% 5 1le 53.18
4% 4% 5 53.18 s•~a
5%
.......-
 S IZI NG AND MEAS UR E M E NTS C HAPTE R 2 39

'

1 I I\

~• #1 1 CROTCH ANGLE
The crotch angle IS not a direct body measurement, but is
necessary for drafting pants.
#12 NAPE TO WAIST
The nape is the point where the neck intersects with the
bac k.
Measure straight down from the nape to the waist at the
I The c rotch angle IS one-half of the front c rotch extension.
center back.
D
•t #11 CROTCH ANGLE
Small Medium Large Extra Large Extra Extra Large
Size Ext ra Small

1 'le 1 'Is 1 'Is 1 'Is 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1 4ls 1 4/s

Misses
1 'Is 1 'Is 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1 4/s 1 4/s 1'1s
Petite 1 'I• 1 'Is
1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1'/s 1'/s 1'1s
Junior 1 'Is 1 'I• 1 'Is
1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1'/s 1'/s 1'1s
Misses tall 1 1ls 1 1ls 1 'I• 2 7/s
1 4/s 1% 1 7/s 2 2 '/s 2% 2 '/s 2%
Women's 1'1s 1 1ls 1%
2 '/s 2%
1% 1% 1% 1 7/s 2 'Is 2% 2%
Half s ize 1% 1 1ls 1%
2'1s 2%
1 4ls 1% 1% 2 2'/s 2% 2 4/s
Plus size 1 1 'Is 1%

#12 NAPE TO WAIST

Large Extra Large Extra Extra Large
Small Medium
Size Extra Small
16 'Is 1
17 /s 17% 17 % 17 7/s 18 1/s
15 7l s 16 1ls 16 % 16%
Misses 15 % 15 % 16 % 16% 16% 17 17 % 17'/s
15 % 15% 15 % 16
Petite 14 % 15 16 71s 17 11s 17 % 17% 17 '1s 18 1/s
15 7ls 16 '1• 16% 16 %
Junior 15 % 15 % 18% 18% 18 71s 19 '/s 19% 19%
17 % 17 % 17 71s 18 '1s
Misses tall 16 7ls 17 'Is 17 71s 18'1s 18% 18% 18 7/s 19 11• 19%
17 '1s 17 % 17 %
Women's 16 % 16 7ls 17 17 % 17'1s 17% 18 18%
16 16% 16 4ls 16%
18
15 % 15 % 16'1s 16% 17 17% 17'1s 17 %
Half size 16 16%
15 4ls 15 %
Plus size 17
 ••
40 CHAPTER 2 SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS

•.
~---~

..
~
.
••
••
, I I '
••

#14 BACK NECK RISE

#13 BACK NECKLINE
The back neckline is not a direct measurement, but is cal· The back neck rise is not a direct body measurement OU\
cu lated as one-sixth of the total neckline measurement. is calculated as one-eighteenth of the nec kline measure-
ment.

#13 BACK NECKLINE

Size Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large Extra Extra large

Misses 2'1a 2% 2% 2'1a 2% 2 '12 2 '12 2 '12 2 '12 2% 2', 2'•

Petite 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2 '12 2 '12 2 1 '2 2": 2' -
Junior 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 7
2 1a 2 la7
3% 0 2 .3~ 2'~
Misses tall 2'12 2 '12 2 112 2 112 2'12 2 '12 2% 2% 2% 2 51a 2'• 2 ~£
Women's 3 3% 3'1a 3% 4 4% 4'1a 4% 5 5'8 5' e s•,
Half size 2% 3 3% 3 112 3% 4 4'12 5'\
4 '12 4 61a 5 5 '•
Plus size 2% 3 3'1· 3 '12 3% 4 4'/. 4 '12 4lr, 5 s·. 5 '~

#14 BACK NECK RISE

Size Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra large Extra Extra~
Misses
Petite
%
%
%
314
%
314
7

%
1a 7
la
314
'Ia 7
1a 7
ls T
8 ' 1$ . '! \
Junior 314 'Ia 7
1a 7
31· 31• ''s •a 1f a ·n 1
Misses tall 'I• 1a 7
1a 1 1 1',e ! ,
'Is 7
1a 'Ia 'Is 0 'I•
,,
7 -'t
Women's 1a 7
la 7
1 1% 1% 1%
1a 7
/s '
" 'I• "It
Half size
Plus size
'I•
'Is
1%
1%
1%
1%
1%
1%
1%
1%
1%
1'h
1%
1%
1 'h
1%
, 1

1•1a
'2 1'12
1'/e ,.
1 'h
1'A
1'
1\
1% , 'h , '1: 1'h 1 1h ~
 SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS C HAPTER 2 41

I \

I I I\

~5SHOULDERLENGTH #16 ACROSS BACK

Measure between the two bones at the top of the armhole,
Measure from the point that the neck and shoulders inter-
and since the draft will be completed as one-quarter of the
sect to the point where the shoulder and arms intersect.
body, you need to divide this measurement in half.
Where exactly are the shoulders?
Place your hand on the bone at the top of your shoulder.
Pivot the arm. If you have the correct location on the bone,
your arm should pivot around this point.

#15 SHOULDER LENGTH Extra Extra Large

Medium Large Extra Large
Size Extra Small Small
6 '1. 7 7 1/4 7 '/s
5 112 5 3/4 6 6 '/4 6'12
Misses 5 5 1/s 5 '/. 5 4/s 5% 5% 5 7/s 6
5 '/s 5 '/s 5% 5% 6%
5 5 5 7/s 6 6 '/s
Petite 4%
5 1/s 5 2/s 5% 5 4/s 5% 5%
5 7/s 6
Junior 4 7/s 5
5 1/s 5 2/s 5% 5 4/s 5% 5%
4 7/s 5 5 5 1/s 6 1/s 6 '/. 6 '1• 6%
Misses tall 5 7/s 6 6 6 1/s
5% 5% 5 7/s 6 6 1/s 6 1/s 6%
Women's 5% 5 3/4 5 7/s 5 7/s 6
5% 5% 5 3/4 6 6'/s 6 '/s 6%
Half size 5 '12 5% 5 7/s 5 7/s 6
5% 5% 5%
Plus size 5%

#16 ACROSS BACK Extra Large Extra Extra Large

Medium Large
Small 8 1/s 8%
Size Extra Small 7% 7 7/s 8
7% 7% 7% 8%
1
7 /s 7 2/s 8 1/s 8 2/s 8% 8'/s
7
6 /s 7 7% 7 7/s 8 9%
Misses 7% 9 '/s
7 2/s 7% 7% 8 1/s 8% 8 4/s 8% 8 7/s
9 4/s
Petite 7% 8 8 7/s 9 '/s 9%
7 '1s 7% 7%
8 1/s 8% 8 4/s 8%
10
Junior 7% 8 9 4/s 9% 9% 9%
7 4/s 7% 9 1/s 9% 9% 9%
Misses tall a '/s 9 9 2/s 9% 9'/s 9%
a% a% a '/s 9 9 1/s 9%
Women's a% a% 9% 9% 9 4/o 9%
a% a 'Is 8 7/s 9 9 '/s
Half size 8% a%
a% a%
Plus size
~ l'Ho\PHR 2 SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS

..
•••
\
•
I \
\

\ ••
••
••
••
••
••
#17 SLEEVE LENGTH
Measure from the top of the sleeve to the wrist.
#18 SHOULDER PITCH

Also called shoulder angle.

••
Measure from the shoulder bone to the elbow and con-
tinue down to the wrist.
The shoulder pitch is not a direct body measurement, but
is calc ulated as one -eleventh of the nape to waist mea- ••
••
surement.

#17 SLEEVE LENGTH

Size Extra Small Small Medium
•
•••
Large Extra Large Extra Extra Large
Misses 22% 22% 7
22 /s 23 23 1/s 23 % 3
23 /s 4
23 /s 23 % 23 % 23 7/s 24
Petite 21% 21 % 21 '/s 21 % 21% 21 7/s 22 22'/s 22 % 22 % 22 4/s 22%
Junior 23 % 23 '/s 23 % 23 % 23 7/s 24 24 1/s 24 % 24%
Misses tall 24 % 24 4/s
24 % 24 4/s 24 %
24 % 24 % 24 7/s 25 25'/s 25 2/s

••
Women's 23 7/s 25% 25 4/s 25% 25%
24 24 1/s 24 % 24 %
Half size 22 % 24 % 24 % 24% 24 7/s 25 25 '/s 25%
22% 22'/s 22 % 22 %
Plus size 32 1/s 22 7/s 23 23 1/s 23% 23% 23'/s 23 %

-•
32 % 32 % 32% 32% 32% 32 7/s 33 33 1/s 33% 33% 33'/a

-- •••
#18 SHOULDER PITCH
Size
Extra Small
Small Medium
Misses Large Extra Large Extra Extra Laf98
1% 1%
Petite 1'/s 1'/s 1 '/s
1% 1 4/s

••
Junior 1% 1% 1 '/s 1% 1% 1% 1%
1'/s 1% 1% 1 4/s
Misses tall 1 4/s 1% 1% 1 4/s 1% 1% 1%
1'/s 1% 1% 1%
Women's 1 4/s 1% 1% 1% 1%
1'/s 1% 1% 1% 1%
Half size 1% 1% 1% 1% 1%
1% 1 7/s 2 1% 1% 1%
Plus size 1 4/s 1% 2 1/a 2% 2%
1 4/a 1% 1 7/a 2 '/a 2% 2%
1% 1% 2 2 '/a
1 '1e 2 2% 2% 2% 2%
2 1/a 2% 2% 2% 2 5/e 28/e
 SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS CHAPTER 2 43

/ '

1 t I \ I I

#19 BICEP CIRCUMFERENCE #20 WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE

Wrap tape around the fullest part of the bicep. This mea- Wrap tape around the wrist. Th1s measurement is help-
surement is helpful when drafting the sleeve to check that ful when draft1ng the sleeve to check that the wrist w '1 be
the sleeve will be large enough to accommodate a larger large enough to accommodate the hand.
bicep.

#19 BICEP CIRCUMFERENCE

Size Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large Extra Extra Large

Misses 10 10 % 10 % 11 11s 11 '1• 11 7ls 12 % 12 % 13 13 3'8 13 6 • 1..i c

Petite 10% 10 % 11 '1• 11'1e 11 7le 12 2le 12 % 13 13 31e 13 % 14 . 8 14 4 !

Junior 10% 11 '1• 11 4le 11 71e 12 2le 12% 13 13% 13 618 14 .,. 14' 5 14-'
Misses tall 10% 11 11 % 11 % 12 1le 12 4le 12 71e 13% 13% 14 14 '·· "'4 E ~
Women's 14 % 14 7le 15 '/s 15 % 16 16% 16 % 17 '1• 17' '• 17 ~s 1a'. 1a'
Half size 13% 14 11e 14 'Ia 14 7le 15% 15 % 16 16% 16% 17 .•
Plus size 13 % 14 1le 14 'Ia 14 7le 15'/s 15 % 16 16% 16% 17 "•

#20 WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE

Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large Extra Extra Large
Size
1 5 7la 6% 6% 7 7% 7•,. a'8 a·. a·. g:,
Misses 5 1e 5'1•
g
Petite
Junior
Misses !all
5%
5'1a
5'1•
6'1•
6
6%
6'1•
6'1•
6%
6 '1•
6%
7
7%
6%
7%
7%
6'1•
7%
a
6%
a•;.
9J,.
a ·'·
6"-'•
a'!
9 ••
a•.
6 -.
a·.
9 '•
7
9'•
9'•
7'
9'•
10'.
• 10
-·
r

11~
•

7'1a 7 '1a a% a% 9 10 1 • 10'•

Women's 7'1•
7'1• 7'1e 7 11a 8% 8% 9 9'• 9"• 10'. 10'
Half size 6%
Plu s size 6% 7 1le 7 4/e 7 '/e 8% 8% 9 9'• 9"• 10'/o
 ... CHAf'TER 2 SIZING AN D M EASUR EM ENTS

''

1121 NECK CIRCUMFERENCE

#22 BUST SPAN
Wrap measunng tape around base of neck, and measure
but do not pull the tape too t1ght. Measure from apex to apex across the front chest. Draft-
ing tube tops may be useful.

1121 NECK CIRCUMFERENCE

E; tr a Small Small Medium Large
Size 2 Extra Large
4 6 Extra Extra Large
8 10 12
MISSes 14 16 18
14 14 '!. 14 % 20 22 24
Pet1te 13 •·s 14 % 14 71s 15
13 /a 14 15 'Is 15 % 15%
Jumor 14 '1• 14 % 14 % 15% 15% 15%
14 ' 1• 14 /a 15% 14 % 14%
M1sses tall 14 5/e 15% 15 71s 14 % 14 71s 15 15 1/a
14% 14 71s 16'1s 16%
Women's 17 21a 15 15 11s 15%
16% 17 11s 17% 17% 18
Half SIZe
17 51e 18 18 % 15% 15 %
18 % 19 11s 15 %
Plus size
16 % 17 1/s 17'1s 19'1s 19 71s
15% 15 'Ia 16
16 % 17 71s 18 % 20 % 20 %
17 '1s 17'/s 18 % 19 21 21 %
17 71s 18 % 19% 19%
18 % 19 20 1/s 20 "/e 20 7/s
19% 19% 20'1s 20'1s 20 'la
1122 BUST SPAN
Size
Extra Small
Misses Small
6'1o Medium
Petite 6% 6% Large
Junior 6% 6% 6 /'s 7 Extra Large Extra Extra Large
6% 6'1s 7 7'1s 7%
Misses tall 6% 6 '1. 7'1s 7% 7% 7%
6% 7 7% 7 71s 8 '/s
Women's 6 71a 7 7'1a 7% 7% 771s
Hatt Size
8 7 '1a 7% 8 8%
8'1s 8% 7% 7'1s
7% 7% 7%
Plus size 7'1• 8% 8% 7% 7%
7% 7 7/a
7"1• 8 8% 8
7 71a 8 '1s 8'/a
8 8% 8%
8% 8 71a 9
8%
8'1a 8% 8 '1a 9% 9%
8% 8% 8%
8 "/a 8% 9
8% a•;, 8 7111 9
 SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS CHAPTER 2 45

I J I I

#23 BUST LEVEL

Measure from the shoulder point down to fullest part of
bust. This measurement is helpful when determining the
bust apex, and will be useful when drafting low-cut tops.

#23 BUST LEVEL Extra Large Extra Extra Large

M edium Large
Extra Small Small 11 %
S ize 7
10 /a 11 11 1/a
10% 10% 10% 10"/a
1
10 /a 10% 10% 10% 104 /a 10%
Misses
7
9 /a 10 10 1/a 10%
9% 9% 10 12 1/a 12% 12'; a
g% g 'fa 9% 11 % 11 % 11 %
Petite 10% 10% 11 1/a 11 % 12 12'/a
9 7/a 10 1/a 10% 11 4/a 11 % 11 %
Junior 11 1/a 11 % 11 % 144/a 14 "Ia 15
10% 10% 11 13% 14 14%
Misses tall 13 13% 13 4/a 13% 13 7/s 14 ''•
12% 12% 12 7/a 13 1/a 13%
Women's 12% 12% 12% 14% 14'·a
11 s;. 11 7/a 12 1/a 13% 13 7/a 14 1/a
Half size 11 % 12 7/a 13 1/a 13%
12 1/a 12% 12%
Plus size 11 7/a
 ·~ HA.PTER 2 SIZING AND MEASU R E M E NTS

••
••
••
•• •
•
•
••
••
•24 HIP DEPTH
•••
Measure L'le a sta~ce from the wa1st to the fullest part
of tl'e h p May be used to check h1p placement and hip
#25 HIGHEST PART OF CHEST OR BUST
Measure around the highest part of the chest, directly un.
der arms. Note: This is above the fullest part of the chest.
••
ootcl'es
••
N24 HIP DEPTH
S1ze Extra Sm all Small Medium Large Extra Large Extra Extra Large
••
••
M1sse! ~3
34 35 ;. 36'/a 37 '/a 38 %
Pet1te 34 1
35 1/•• 40 41 'Is 43 44 %
/
36 8h 37 8/16 38 8/ ,s 40 46% 48'/a
Jumor 35 36 41 8/,s 43 44 8/ •s 46
37 38 39 40 8/ ,s 48 50
42
••
MISSeS tall 35'/e 43 8/,s
Women 's 46
36'1• 37'·, 38 '/a 39% 41 42 '/a
45 46 8/ ,s 48 •;,. so•;,.
48 50 52 44 45 % 47 48'/a 50
Half SIZe 44 46 54 56 58
48 50 60 62 64 66 68
Pius SIZe 44 46 52 54 56

••
48 50 58 60 62 64 66
52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66

#25 HIGHEST PART OF CHEST OR BUST

~e ••
Misses
Petite
Extra Small
32 33 34
Small

35
Medium
Large
Extra Large
-•
Extra Extra Large

•
32 33 34 36 % 38
Junior 32 35 39 1/2 41
33 34 36 1/2 38 43 45 32
39 1/2
Misses tall
Women's
Half size
Pius size
33
42
42
43
34
43
43
45
35
44
44
35
36
45
45
36'12
37'12
46%
46 '12
38
39
48
48
39'12
40 '12
49 %
41
41
42
51
42'12
42'12
43 1/2
52'12
44
44
45
32
32
33
••
47 49 49 1/ 2 54 42
51 53 51 52'12
55 54 42
57 59 61 43
 SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS CHAPTER'} 41

#26 ARMHOLE DEPTH

The armhole depth os not a direct body domens 1on, but is
taken from the sloper draft Measure the distance from the
shoulder straight down to the bottom of the armhole.

#26 ARMHOLE DEPTH

Extra Extra
Large Extra Large Large
Extra Small Small Medium
16 18 20 22 24
6 8 10 12 14
Size 2 4
7% 7
7 1s 8 8 11s 8%
7 1/s 7% 7% 7 '/s 7%
Misses 6 '/s 7
7'1s 7 '/s 7% 7% 7 71s
6 7/s 7 7 1/o 7'1s 7%
Petite 6% 6% 7 41s 8 7ls 8'1s 8'1s
7 1/s 7% 7% 7 4/s 7%

~
Junior 6 7/s 7 7 8% 8% 8 7ls
8 1/s 8% 8% 8 4/s 8%
7% 7% 7 7/s 8 7 7ls 8 8 '1s
Misses tall
7% 7 4/s 7% 7% 7 7ls
7% 7 'Is 7% 7% 7% 7'1• 7%
Women's
6 7/s 7 7 'Is 7% 7 21s
6 7/s 6% 6% 6% 7'1s 7% 7'1•
Half size 6 71s 7 7 1ls 7 'Is
6% 6% 6% 6%
Plus size 7%

~
~~
 'HAI'l ~ R 2 SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS
.•
I

Cup Sizes
Cup size is determined by t he difference between the
measurement and the upper bust measurement. This cbust
...
shows different bust measurements, but all upper chest hal'(
surements are 36" for illustration purposes only. mea.
•• •
#27 CUP SIZE

If the upper chest 1s 36'

--------.. ••
Bust
Upper chest
3611>
36'
37
36'
38
36"
39
36"
3
40
36"
4
41
36"
5
42
36"
6
~
36"
7 8
•• 45

••
Difference 112 2 9
2W' to 3\1.1 4\1.1 5\1.1 6V.. 7'14 8'14
Difference Up to 11> '~h"to 1 1-4 11/> to 2V.. 9Y.
Cup size AA A B c D DD/E DDD/F G H I

#28 CUP RADIUS •••

Est1mate the diameter of the breast.
Extra Extra
Small Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large
••
Extra Extra
Large
Stable
Moderate
Stretchy
2 1 /s
2'
2
2V..
214
2%
2%
2Y2
2¥2
2%
2%
2 '%
2'%
••
2 7/s
2 7/o

••
2'1• 214 2% 2Y2 2%
Super 2~
1 /'o 2 2 'I• 2'14 2% 2Y2 2%
Rib 1% 1'/• 1 '/• 2 2 1/o 2'14 2%

••
•
 SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS C HAPTER 2 49

H_ow to Determine Your Own

S1ze Range
Purchased
The
·s to fidrst
t step. in sta r t"m g your own label or your own company measurements
' . e e rmme .vour s·tze range an d stze . specs. There arc two Populat1on IndiVidual
btastc
h ways. · t o get siz·mg tntormattOn.
· r · One is to buy it a nd the measurements measurements
0 f er IS to design it yourself, usually by reverse en~ineeri ng
o your competitor·s products.
POPULATION MEASUREMENTS
·
\ St atistical analysis
I
May be obtained from the American Bureau of Sta ndards
a nd Measurements, which lists measurements based on age
groups, and is updated every November.
t
Standard
measurements
http://www.astm.org
INDIVIDUAL MEASUREMENTS
Individua l measurements of sample customer s or fit models
a nd dress-forms, should be t aken. '
STATISTICAL ANALYSIS Production Patterns
Ana lyze t he measurements taken, along with those pur-
chased , a nd compa re them to decide on the a ppropriate mea-
sureme nts for you target market. Create grade tables based
on your ana lysis.
SLOPERS
Develop a measurement chart for your company, or use one of
the measureme nt charts provided in this text, before creating
your company's slopers.
PRODUCTION PATTERNS
Production patterns should be drafted to the company size
specs. Often, designer samples are created in model's propor-
tions, for showroom sales and fashion shows. These measure-
ments do not fit the average consumer and should be corrected
for production patterns. This is the responsibility of the spec
technician.
COMPETITORS
You can purchase garments from your competitors and take
the measurements directly from the garment.
 ••
••
•••
.
l,c;
~/v
:...vJ}
'h·
••
, 2 H5

Jilt'
'!J,
•;_,
'11>
••
''
"116

•;,.
•;,2
•;32
lO!Jl
••
'• •;,.
"13>
12/32
13
/32
••
••
'l•s

•;,.
14
/32
'sl32
'"132
••
•;,.
17
18
132
132
19132
••
'• 10
/16

n;,s
20132
21
132
22132
23
••
132
% 12;,. 24132
25
132
";,. 26132
27132
7
/e ";,. 28132
29132
15/16 30132
31
132
% •s;,e 32132

Test Your Knowledge of the

Material in This Chapter
1. Why don't clothes from one manufac-
turer fit the same as from another
manufacturer? 6. What is catalogue sizin~? ween
7. How much is the bust difference bet
2. What are the "true sizings" or industry
guidelines for sizing garments? ~~Wmd~~~~ -
8. How much is the bust difference betw
3. What type of customers are Junior sizes size 10 and size 8? een
intended for?
9. How much is the bust difference betw
4. What type of customers are Plus sizes
intended for? Small and Medium? ween
5. What is vanity sizing? 10. How much is the bust difference bet
Medium and Large?
 SIZIN G AND MEASUREMENTS C HAPT[R 2 51

Exercise #2
t'rt'Hit' a person a l meas ureme nt ch art w ith th e associated reductions , for fu tu re draft s.
-
Two- &
Super- Four-way
Stable Moderate St retchy stret c h Rib knits
Personal Divide knits kn it s knits knits knits 5% both
# M easurement by 0% 2% 3.5% 5°/o 10% directions
Multiply By r--
.100 ·.98 ·.965 ·.95 .90 ·.o9
1 Bust
4
2 Wa1st --
4
3 Hip
4
4 Crotch depth N/A No length reduction
5 Waist to knee N/A No length reduc tion
6 Waist to ankle N/A No length reduction
7 Ankle 4
8 Knee 4
9 Front crotch One quarter of
hip measurement
10 Back c rotch One -third of
hip measurement
11 C rotch angle One half of front
crotc h extension
12 Nape to w a1st N/A
13 Bac k nec k From size N/A
c hart closest
to your size

14 Back neck rise From size N/A

chart closest
to your size

15 Shoulder N/A No reduction

16 Across back 2

17 Sleeve length N/A

18 Shoulder pitch From an N/A

appropriate
c hart

19 Bicep

20 Wrist

21 Neck

22 Bust sp an

23 Bust level

24 Hip depth

25 Upper b ust
 CHAPTER 3
Principles of Pattern-Drafting

About This Chapter

~his chapter introduces the reader to the principles and prac-
~Jces of s~retch patternmaking. While previous patternmak-
mg expenence w1ll help in understanding these concepts, the
?ccaswnal, or new, pattern maker will greatly benefit from see-
mg how ~tretch patternmaking differs from conventional pat-
ternmakmg. In many ways, stretch patternmaking is simpler.

Flat Patternmaking
Flat patternmaking is the process of creating templates used
to cut out the final garments. Patternmaking is the process of
creating a two-dimensional template for a three-dimensional
garment, by tracing out the sloper on a blank sheet of paper,
then manipulating by slash and spread and adding garment
details to create a final pattern.

Sloper
A sloper is a template of basic styles, without any seam allow-
ances or style details. Many different patterns can be made
from a single sloper. Because a sloper is your master pattern,
it should not be changed or altered unless you wish to make
those same alterations to all future styles. Slopers should be
traced out on lightweight drafting paper, and then changed
into the style that you wish to create.

Patterns
A pattern is an outline, or a template, of the intended style
that is used when cutting out the fabric. All patterns should
include seam allowances to allow the pieces to be sewn to-
gether; notches to help match seams together; a gr~inline a~d
any necessary drill holes; plus all necessary labehng and m-
structions. All final patterns should be made of oa.k-tag, ~nd
all drafts and working patterns should be made ofhghtwe1ght
drafting paper. There are tv.:o methods of creating patterns:
flat patternmaking and drapmg.

53
 PR INC IPLES O
F PATTERN - D RA
FTI N G

. C
(' ' h
differ ent scam lnJ H CH anu ij~,
Bcstdcs th d d to crea te s t retch Patt '~Ill
..•
How Patterns Are Used
t ·'., ,..1 rmEmt.f Ev-
CT·
allowances nee ed 1'frerence between st retcherne,
' ·
there ts one
h uge
E ·1"ch s tretch fa bn. c requ·an.>~ ••
Pattern;; are used t 0 cut ou reo-ardless
d-
er" .,.3 rment nee ~
. "'
stories you hear a
a pattern.
o t1te
·-"' <Trandmo tl ~~' !'
bout ;;omeone "' "'
• .. In those cases. ~-ou
wo\'en
3
d1 ,er e
Patterns. ' k 't {' b .
'f" . 11t s1opct.. Sta ble- n·1 •a ncs, Wh·lch
2 "' percent., requtre s 1opers crea~
stretch up ~~ic~lar fa bric. While t his seerns Iikd
l t n•
...
••
"who ne,·er u~ - pattern.
h
-e<
can be sure t e"'
a .
<Tarments
professional. and must tn
·11-fittmg
are I
. deed look it.
· a nd tt n-
fo r t hat par d hund red s of di fferent slopers e
you would nee ly six d 1ffcrent slopcr sets: " n
fact there are on
••
Pattern Development Sta ble knit stretches up to 2S'i'o ••
Modera te-stretch knit stretches up to 50'ft •
d bY tracing- out the
All patt_ern~ are de,·elope I t:n<T thro~gh slash
·I er mampu a I "
appropnate" op · lnn<T . the d~._
.
·gn detatls to
~. 1
and ,;pread . an d aPp · "' finallv adding a ll of
Stretchy knit
Super -stretch knit
s tretches up to 75'?t
stretches up to lOO<:t
••
tht• paper draft. and then
the nece--ary :--eam allo"·ances.
.
Two-way-str etch a nd
fou r-way-str etch knit
stretches up to lOO'l
in both directions
•
Draping Knits Rib knit stretches over 100~ • •
Drapmg- •" a method by which the fabri_c is placed This manual t a k es a unique approach to •
on the fittinll' .Judy and the garment IS cu~ and
molded to tht· ~tyle. Draping is difficult? 1_f not
drafting slopers, in that t h e largest-sized sloper D
impos•ible, wtth !'tretch fabrics, because tt IS ex- is created a n d on each piece t h e other stretch •
trem!·lv difficult to maintain the same amou nt ratios are indicat ed. This m ethod saves a lot of •
of stretch wht-n drapmg the separate front a nd time when dr afting slop ers, a nd u ses far less
back of the· garment. Often the side seams of supplies, which is especially h elpful to the stu- •
draped garments will twist around the body, be- dent, or beginnin g pa tternma k er. D
cause the seam~ are not identical and were not
equaltzed effectively. To get a round this prob-
lem, drape the front of the gar ment, a nd use How Patternmaking Works ••
that drape to create the back of the garment by
changing the neckline and the armholes of the
draft, or the reverse: drape the back of the style
In order to create a pattern, you must trace out
the appr opriate sloper on a fresh sheet of light· •
•
and draft the back, from that drape. ' weight paper; complete any slash and spread. •
draw in the details, add the necessary seam
a llowa nces, and finally trace the lightweight •
The Differences between pattern onto oak-tag, or hard paper, and label
Woven and Stretch Patterns a nd notch the pattern accordingly. Before anY •
Since all woven fabri b . pattern can be considered complete, you must
and don't stretch th cs a~e asically the same, true and check every seam check every notch- •
er
slopers. With str~tch ~n_ y need a single set of blend every curve, and the~ label the ~atterJl. •
many different stret~ n cs, _however, there are Also remember that fitting and corrections eft
each stretch fabri d ratios. Consequently part of the pattern making process. n· •
c nee s an appropriate sloper:
When adding seam allowances, create aJI •
nal Patterns in oak-tag, or hard pattern papel'· •

•
 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN-DRAFTING C H APTER 3 55

Principles of Patternmaking way the garment stretches. A s1mple RPrgcd

Tlwre are six principle" of k .
-·11 . ' mt patternmakina
t I1at "1 be explamed and 1-11 _ "'
. h U:stratE'd through-
ou t t h IS c aptE'r:
1 Ease
2 Adding a style line
3. Slash ~nd ;:;pread to add fullne::;;:, flare.
gathermg. and ease. and pivoting
4. Reductwn;:; for binding. band mg. tnm.
and elastic
5. Circle;; for skirt::- and ruffle,;
6. Fitting and corrt>ctions
Seam Allowances
:\one of the calculations used to create the slop-
ers or blocks in thi,; manual include seam allow-
ance". nor. for that matter. should any sloper or
block. Seam:- should onl.v be added to the final
pattern pieces: otherwise vou would soon find
your,;elf confused as to ,~·hether they'd been
added or not. The amount of seam a llowance
you add depend..; on the type of machine you
use, which in turn is determined by t h e type of
fabric and seam finish.
When draftmg patterns for stretch gar-
ments, keep in mind that seams a lso affect th e
scam along t he sidt- of a gn n nent does n't. rt-n lly
affect much. but consider. for t•xamplc, uBing n
topstitdwd Sl'ntn along t hnt ~ame side sca m.
Such :1 seam would lw a nice dccorntiv<' feat.un•.
but all that bulk :1cts as an anchor line a nd w ill
not a lim\ the fabric to st n•tch as much along ils
length as would a simpll' scrgcd scam. So you
nc,•d to allow t•xtra lt'ngth. which might in turn
afft•ct tlw fit of llw n•sl of lht• garment.
A top:<titched S('a m a lso tt•nds to h old in a
~trmght lint'. so be :1\Y:ll'l' that you might n<'ed
to allO\\ :1 little extra in gnrm<'nt length or find
yourself with a bunch of 45-degTC<' pucke rs down
ont' side of the scam . You can usc t his lo you r ad-
\·antage or you can be constantly ch asing your-
!.'elf in circles t rying to work out why something
doesn't. fit the way you hoped it would. The closer
or t ighter the fit a nd t.hc smalle r the garment.,
t he more you need to build excess into s ma ll a l-
lowances for unforeseen circumsta nces. This
usu a lly is n't a problem when working with st a n-
dard sizes, but wh en ma king cust om garme nts,
t hese con siderations might be critical.
The seam a llowances a rc det ermined by
the type of knits, a nd consequently the ty pe
of ser ger. The pa t tern ma k e r mu st know which
machine t o use in orde r to apply the correct
sea m a llowances.

Seam allowance Hem Allowance

Ratio Serger
Knit
3
/s" or h'' 1 1" lor straight, 'H' lor curved
25% 4-thread or 5-thread
Stable kn1t 11 the l abnc IS very thick
%" 1" lor straight, 'h" lor curved
50% 4-thread
Moderate knit 3/8' 1" lor straight, 'h" lor curved
100% 4-thread
Rib knit 3 /s" or /4'1 1" lor straight, 'h'' lor curved
100% 4-thread or 3-thread
Super-stretch knit lor very l ine knits
4-thread %"
100%
Loosely knitted
super-stretch knit 3/s' or 'h" 1 'H' lor straight, 'h" for curved
4-thread or 5-thread
Sweater knits (cut and sew) 18-SO%
if loosely knitted
_ % Single needle, crochet, linking 'Is"
18 50
Fully-fashioned sweaters Single-stitch seam allowance
When making custom fit garments use '12"
Custom garments '/2" seams to baste the garment tog~ther
for the first fitting using a stra1ght-st1tch
machine. The excess can be cut away
later using a serger.
 56 CHAPTER 3

Drafting Hems
PRINCIPLES
OF pp.TTERN-
DRAFTING

L hem allowance becau

.11 betoo sh ort s~
..
•
•
This is an J·ncorrec
•• fold s up, it WI 4l
when
sew.
Lhc fabnc
••
••
••
Th . ·san !.DCorrect hem a .llrJwancc. b~;cau-':<: •
JS l
when the fa bnc
. fold s. up, ii wJ! l g<.:i largf;r an<! •
stretch out from sewmg. •

••
••
Create the correct hem allowance by dra.,.... D
· a line parallel to the bottom of the Pant. D
~~!n squaring up at the sides. Thi s hem allQ1c. D
ance is slightly s maller, and wlll not ;,trEtcb
out when sewing and actually will help pull th< D
hem in s lightly. D
D

Understanding the Sewing of Hems

••
1" HEM
All straight hems must have at least a 1' be=~
•••
•••
stretches when
allowance.
sewing
Cover-stitching causes the seam to "Wl~
out. By using a 1" hem allowance. the fo!OOJ
edge will remain intact while the i'titched ed.~
~tretches out and may be easily pre~t'd b.1<i
mto shape. ••
•
••
%"HEM
A~-("
h2 ·
em ~v1ll cause the edge to ~tn'tch out.
There IS no choice but to U::<t' '\ • henl .1-
~owance on_ a curved l'dge, butt~ s;n-tched ~
IS l~ss obvtous on a curvt'd hena and eMt« at
shrmk back. to shan.. "h'l .
,..... .... • e pressang.
 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN - DRAFTING C HAPTER 3 57

Different Ways to Sew a Stretch Hem

.... ···.. ··..- ·..

~- ·.....·· . · ....... .\

ZIGZAG MACHINE MARCEL STITCH

A zigzag machine may be used to hem a stretch A marcel stitch is a straight stitch in a zigzag pat-
tern. Stretch this seam slightly while sewing.
garment.

······· -~

STRAIGHT-STITCH MACHINE
Sew this hem using a large stitch length and
stretch the seam as you sew. When the seam
has been stretched during sewing, it will have
large floats on t he right side of the garment.
A stretched seam will not lie flat, but instead
will be wavy and stretched. If the seam is not
stretched beyond the amount the wearer will
stretch it, it will pop when worn.
[~~
--- _l
-~
HAND HEM
A hand hem is used when a blind hemmer is not
available or when the designer wants to create
a truly invisible hem.
The needle travels from right to left, but the
sewing is actually going left to right. Keep the
stitches smaller than 3/s". Back-tack every third
stitch, to reinforce the hem. Hide stitches un-
der the serge when creating delicate garments,
such as sweaters.

____ folded edge

)

( folded edge

SERGED-ON BAND
TUBULAR HEM
A serged-on band is a separate
A tubular hem looks like a serged-
strip offabric that is folded in Since the cover-stitch can-
on band but is really a folded-up
half and serged to the raw not pivot around a corner, it
hem, created using the serger. This
edge of the fabric. Serged-on is necessary to hem the front
hem can only be applied to straight
bands can be done on almost and back of the skirt before
any seam; the band width can hems.
sewing the side seams.
vary from 1/.i" to 3" and may
also be used on necklines to
create crew-neck collars.
 IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII...~~::~~~~N-IDRAFTING

-
I
OF PATTERN·
58 CHAPTCR 3 PRINCIPLES

diffe r ent manufactur~rt -

member that allowances on the end, flQ -
ELASTIC l~t !~d
d to fini sh a raw d e Itclose a lso Ro ""t ,.,m . of tho pattom ••lh lh, II
"" d•'\:bol
Ela:;;tic may be use outside edge tlgnug on bath- a lways (aftertho e lastic).m"'"""'ont r•.,, ..
wa"\.,tro
sewn)
fin1she~/"
J1
will help keep a;wm leg opemngs s
ed e h 'p hugge r s, measureth II
to the body. and dlesuits. a lly 1/16 inch " x 25 1'~ = finish.st or I d th e
1 For owe red wa1d. wa .iSt and re uce fth at ll1ea.· •

.
ing suits and bo .Y elastic a re us_u If you have
Allowances fodrth of the elastJc. . the elas- Judyment the lowere
a t- neve r the mea. s u rem e nt o e Pattetn. •
h sure •
more t an the w1 f [; bric wrappinu ., ove1
t to a llow a
several layers od :) you
t ·c (not a good ' e '. ch extra pelmay wa~layer offab-
'
little more, a b0 utd 'l l2 m ~ ~~ ~::
ric being wrappe ·
"<rtr ~ •

ELASTIC F .
Whenever usmg
OR WAIST
elastic that is lar1~;
. than 1
sample I
1·emove 1 inch fromott seem like I
inch, always t That may n t'c is too over 1" Wide( I
- ~:~:~~?:de - - -
waJs. t measuremen . b u t if the e 1as '
·eductwn,
enough of a I te the wearer. ( me- I
tight it will aggrav~ -not the pa~~er,~_els'W'). elastic
I
Measure the Ju26~'-"· then 26 Y2 -1 - n 2" smaller

~:
72

dium SJze
· ist = ' t !so be sew
of the elastic mus ta the ends (Y2
I
The en
together, so add sean1 a llowances o I
inch each side). I
I
Elastic Reductions . I
Less than 1" wide' cut.the elastic Cutout armholes I
Waist elastic 2 , smaller than the wa1st. f Cut the elastic 'h'' smaller than th;,
More tha n 1" wide ' cut. the elas 1c armhole measurement. I
Regular armholes Cut the elastic the same as the
1" smaller than the waist. h
Front neckline Cut the elastic 1" smaller than t e armhole measurement.
Front leg opening Cut the elastic 1" smaller ~an"~
front neckline measurement. h
Back neckline front leg opening measur-;;, :re
Cut the elastic 1" smaller than t e
Back leg opening
back neckline measurement. Cut the elastic 1' smaller - "'r:.-
back leg opening measurew.

Types of Elastic

St,.toh ga<mon'-' ""d olaetio that •t•ekhes with the

There are various types of elastic, each Its ~lth
p p _owr:""',~·~:~
ties a nd characteristics designed for specific apphcatwns.

INSERT ELASTIC
•

Insert elastic is intended to be covered by the

I

-----
fashion fabric, and can be inserted or stitched
into a casing or a channel. Insert elastic can be
either knitted or braided. It may be topstitched NON-ROLL ELAsnc el ""
Non-mil, or roll-ban, elasu., is inse~. ";.;
through the center of a waistband to prevent it
from rolling and folding in half, or collapsing. that is usually braided and...,..;.,. rol
folding over when stretched. It doee not
'!<t,.
be stitched through the center.
 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN DRAFTING CHAPTER 3 59

SWIMWEAR ELASTIC
RUBBER SWIMWEAR ELASTIC
Swimwear elastic is specially t t d .
chlorine and salt water. · rea e to res1st Rubber swimwear clastic has a tendency to
stick to the pt·esser foot. Always place this elas·
tic under the garment, against t he feed dogs,
so the teeth can grab the elastic and pull it
through the serger.

I a

DRAWSTRING ELASTIC LINGERIE ELASTIC

This elastic has a braided cord knitted into the Basic lingerie elastic comes in a variety of
center of the elastic, which will expand to be- widths and colors and is typically used as an
come a drawstring. Never pull the cord out , as insert elastic.
it is impossible to get it back into the elastic.

.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IPIIo•tt•••

FELT-BACKED ELASTIC
This elastic has a soft, plushy backing that is
comfortable next to the skin. i,. ,...,.,.....,.,...,.,. ,. ,. f't"ftiri"t¥
PICOT ELASTIC
Picot elastic h as a small lacy finish on one edge,
and is used to reduce panty lines.
It is used on lingerie and undergarments,
because the small picot adds a decorative finish
and reduces bulk, thereby reducing panty lines
from showing through outerwear.
Sew this elastic to the right side of the gar-
ment, then flip and cover-stitch.

LACE ELASTIC
to give a decorative
Lace elastic may be Used
finish.
 PATTERI'I
ORAFTII'IG
•
.,
---.
CHA" ERa f'RINCI"'LEs oF • nd Gathenng
Elastic Used t o Crea te Shirnng a

..
.•
••
••
GATHERED Sl
DE SEAMS
-.-J 1
l'
nther or slurr
ae
ASYMMETRI CAL GATHERED SIDE ••
Rf·member to ;;er., SEAMS . . . h drawstring or gathering on •
gnrm~ Draft a sk~rt WI~thaa straight hem by slashing •
r ' t
p:ut of a the eJn,..t ic '' Jth the
can!' .bc-fon: the elastiC Side WI 'd
_, If '"uwmg
tn to a ttach
• h and one . t h e p attern on one Sl e.
only spreadmg •
trn hi U..aL - • ,. ll will be muc
" hll• gmt' at tb nw urn~.
tood1 cult
A
atcd v.n1t ,;atht>nn~
rt top, p: non both
d
'Ide~.
~tn•tch
1ntr)l\"
. ,·)n may be ere-
or "''' ' 1 ".,.~_ --
L<>ngthen the
elastic in the
••
"'in:!l n-.ttan, nn
CKam aJ!oM
•
,.... no: an d S<•w '"lth
n a -.tratg
.
· ht t 'tch
s1 ·
••
••

SKIRT WITH ELAsnc GATHERING

DETAIL
VERTICALLY GATHERED SKIRT ;,.
Gathering details may be added as a detail, us-
ing the slash and spread technique. Gathering details may be added to the en!ad
length of skirt, using the slash and spr
and sew clear elastic to create the
Stretchdetail.
gathering te~~~ ~
Stretch clear elastic to create the gathe
detail.
 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN-DRAFTING CHAPTER 3 61

Binding

Binding may be. u sed to finish nee·kl'1nes arm COLLARETTE

h oles, leg. opemngs, and th e bottom. of cyclmg
' . · This attachment for a cover-stitch machine will
tops b ut l S rarely used on regular h ems of tops
attach a collar easily.
and d resses, because it tends to b e a b.1t stiff
. When used for necklines, one shoulder must
and. h eavy for a h. em. It may be sewn manua 11y be left open until after th e collar is attached .
w1th the cover-stitch machine or auto t. 11 Collarette may be sewn automatically with
. h b' d' ' rna 1ca y
w1t a m m g turner. a turner, manually by basting, or serging and
then cover-stitching.

vide by 6 = ? Then multiply by 5 = ?
BINDING REDUCTIONS
The binding must be reduced to create a tight
finish. Reduce the length of the binding by one·
sixth of the original measurement.
F+B x5
6
Front armh ole + back armhole = ? Then di-
9" + 9" = 18 I 6 = 5 X 5 = 15"
Example:
If the original measurement is 6". then the
reduced binding should be 5".
If the original measurement is 12". then the
reduced binding sh ould be 10".
If the original measurement is 1 ".then the
r educed binding should be 15".
(front + back) divided by G. then multiplied by 5

achine will apply the correct amount

Eve n though the m h .· ht tension, it is necessary to
11
of binding, Htre tchcd. at t e g 11 . 11 e etc with the binding
·mho1c nccc 1 , .,
la bel the pa ttern , a r ' . 0 how much binding to cui.
mNtimrc me ni. This wil l cletcrmrn
or ord<'r for production .
 ..
w

62 CHAPTER 3 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN-DRAFTING

BINDING WITH THE COVER-STITCH MANUALLY

I
Sometimes a sample room may not _ 1 av~
the turner that IS
'ble to crc::1le
.
•.
needed for binding. In such a case 1i IS sld I P055 1
binding manually using the cover-stJtch.
-~-- -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_--1~--::~·.
••
\-------:--~.:,:::::- --- -- -~-- -._' ••
•
••
Baste the binding using a large st,itc~, ~n
the straight-stitch machme, and don_t ~Pf
Fold the binding over the raw ed15e, an<J.
cover-stitch in place. .
Use the cover-stitch to fimsh the raw edg~
••
any back-tacks. This is temporary bastwg t 1a
will be popped after the binding IS complete.
on the inside of the garment. When compleu,_
remember to pop and snap all the hasting
stitches, or they will pop and s n.ap when th~
••
customer tries on the garment. She then will
think she has torn it and not purchase it.
••
••
111111111111111111111111111: 111111111111111 111111111111 ••
PIECING BINDING Pieced binding will not go through <h •
Piece plain knits diagonally. turner easily, so you may need to cut multiple Cl
widths of binding, or get the binding cut.

BINDING WITH A TURNER

••
Note that t he pattern should be labeled with the length rf
binding, so that the production manager will know how mu2: •
•
binding to cut, or or der. •
Cut the binding 1 1/s" wide for a 3, •" finished binding L~xk •
for the cu t a nd fin ished measurements e n araved on the turner. •
The t urner will be engr aved wit h t he cu tting measurement~
well as the finished (after sewn) measu rem;nt. •
When binding with a t urner. it is not nE:'cessarY to t3lcu- a
late the r eductions because the m ach ine will aut~m3tic3l~· •
s~retch the binding the cor rect a mou nt. Remember th3t the
bmder cannot bi 11d · . ·.:!
be left 0 . In ~ comp1ete Circle. so one :;:houldt'r u1u:_
. . pen when bmdmg t he neckline until after ;lll till' biOG
m g IS complete Wh b'1 d ' -"'·"
0 en · · e~ ~ Ing a rmholes. leaw the.> :;:ide :'t'""""
P until afte r the bmdmg is complete.

I
 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN-DRAFTING CHAPTER 3 63

BANDING
Hand me- ' m·w
'· al," 0 b e used to pu ll porttons
·
<'I OS<'t' and tighter to the of th<' garme nt
armhole of a tank t 'fb body. Do not ratsc and take in an
will tighten the ar~~~le ~ndmg 18 to be applied. The banding
hole and stretched t fi ·hecause It ts smaller than the arm·
l\f k . 0 t w en sewmg.
a e the fimshing b d.
b~r reducing the armh an mg smaller than the opening
length measurement. o1e measurement by 1/6 th of the total
3

Banding must be c t d
it will be applied Th' r~a e smaller than the edge to which
\.,
the garment edg~ tig~~- 1elps keep the banding flat a nd keep ~
'\
Banding must be r d d
the length o th b de uce to cr eate a tight fin ish. Reduce
r e an by 116th of the original measurement.

Banding Reductions:
If the original measurement is 6", th en the reduced band sh ould be 5".
If the original measurement is 12", then the reduced ba nd sh ould be 10".
I f th e original measurement is 18", then the reduced band should be 15".

f double the des~red wtdth Fold t

1/6th smaller than the iotal cut edge

Dra ft the ban d double the desired width,

because it will fold in h alf.

BANDING WITH A COLLARETTE

When banding with a banding attachment,
called a collarette t urner, it isn't n ecessar y to cal·
culate the reductions because the m achine will
automatically stretch the banding the correct
amount. Remember that the collarette cannot
sew in a complete circle, so one shoulder must be
left open until after the entire collar is complete.
When banding armholes, leave the side seams
open until after the banding is complete.
----------------------
CHAPTlR 3 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN-DRAFTING

•
Ribbed Finishes •t
A ~erged-on cuff mav be used on the wns · t 0 fa "',
uar-
· d ger to 1
"1e t
ment to pull the sleeYe tighter an snug
bodv. The same principles may be used to create da t
.
on waist for pants and sk 1r
. . e~e -
serged-on rib waist on a sweatshirt, 0 ' a "bb d
. t s. Make the n. e1
cuff smaller than the customers ' ~,1·ist' not sunp. dY
••
· ht be overs1ze ·
· 11 mig
smaller than the pattern. wh1c
''
••
••
,§ In order for the cuff to fit snugly on the wrist, it must be smaller
••
t
"E and tighter than the wrist and stretched to fit.
g
1)'::'
c.~
The width of the cuff can be whatever the designer desires. but t
0"'
-s
-"0>
the length must be one-sixth smaller than the wrist. When using an I
~ ~ oversized sloper, make the cuff smaller than the customer's wrist. 1
;;;
>. not just smaller than the widened pattern.
~ If the ribbed cuffs will be finished at 2" wide, and folded in half. I
"
c
0 then draft them 4" wide. I
To determine the length of the cuffs: Reduce the cuff measure- I
ment by one-sixth of the original (regular fit) sleeve. 1
-
1/6thlmllllerth•nwrisl
We still want the cuffs to fit tightly on the same customer: her
wrist did not get any thicker, just the sleeve.
I

I
The :ibbed waist will be finished at 2" wide and folded in half I
makmg 1t 4" wide.
~0
.
'
determine the length of the waist: Reduce it by one-sixth of the
ongma1 c:egular fit) waist, or hip.
••
••
her ~:i:~~~~i::~t t~eawaist?and ~o fit tightly on the same customer; over
with a looser fit. g ny thicker, Just the top because she's wearing it sized
raglan
The ribbed waist will be stretch d . top I
to pull it in snugly to the body e to fit the oversized top, in order I
Make sure to label the waistband as "rib only."
•
l •
I

•
SIS

T C/8 .J. I
he waistband should only h CJF SIS

side%~:c!sthe waistband at~~~n:e~t:~f: at either of the side seams.

. ront, center/back, and the
 PRINCIPLES OF PATTER N DRAFTING C HAPTER 3 66

-------
CF

STABLE KNIT
SKIRT SLOPER
FRONT
MED

RIBBED WAISTBAND FOR SKIRTS OR

PANTS
The same rib reduction principles may be used Make the ribbed cuff smaller than the cus-
to create a serged-on rib waist on a sweatshirt tomer's wrist, not simply smaller th a n the block
or a serged-on waist for pants and skirts. , or pattern , which might be oversized .

Ease
Ease is the amount that a pattern is larger or in the case of
knit fabrics , smaller, than the body. Some ~arments must be
made la rger than the body to a llow movement and comfort.
Stretch garments are often cut smaller than the body mea-
surements, since comfort and movement are provided through
the inher ent stretch of the fabri c. There a re different types of
ease used when creating patterns:
Negative Ease Negative ease is the amount that the garment is
made smaller than the body. Because knit fabrics stretch to accom-
modate body types, it is desirable to create the garments slightly
smaller than the actual body. Negative ease can also refer to the
amount of extra fabric removed, or r educed, to allow for an accurate
fit. Many knits are made smaller than the actual body and use the
inherent stretch to achieve the desired fit .
Garment Ease Garment ease is the amount of extra fabric re-
quired to allow for a comfortable fit. Knit garments do not require
as much garment ease, since the inherent stretch of the fabric usu-
ally provides the necessary garment ease.
Design Ease Design ease is the amount of extra fabric required
to create a particular design; for example, shir~ng, ga~hering, and
draped effects. The designer may effect a fit that IS ov~rstzed or much
larger than the body by increasing the amount of design ease.
 N DRAFTING
,•ttAPl CH ~ PRINCIPLES OF PATTER
I
.
Ease at the Waist of Sk•rts a nd Pants I
I

FITTED WAIST . · I
. t (only applica ble tf the fabnc will st
F r a fitted waJs h. ) . l retth I
o be uiled on over the tps ' Slmp y use the slo
enough tod dp dd seam allowances, hems, and other detPet I
as drafte , a n a a11
8
required. · .fl ld fth fab · fi I
To check, place the crossw.tse fo o r eb . nc ad ew inches I
below t IJe cu t edo-e
"' on the wmst o fyour Ia nc, an t place Pins
. II
marking the amount of the waist o you~ s 1oper1pa terns. Bold
tight a nd check to see if this amount will stretch to the Width I
of the hips. If the fabric does not stretch enoug~, use the un. 1
fitted waist; and if that is too large, use the semi-fitted Waist. I
I
I
UNFITTED WAIST
I
I
Use loosely fitted waist draft when the fabric does not stretch I
enough to allow the waist t o be pulled on over the hips, such
as with stable and moderate knits. For example, the waist of a I
stable-knit skirt is only 26 112", while the hip is 36 1h "; the fab. I
ric will not stretch enough to a llow the skirt to be pulled on 1
over the hips. 26 1/2'' + 25% (6% ") = 33 114", which is not enough I
to pull on over 36 If2" hips.
I
I
I
I
I
SEMI-FITTED WAIST I
For a semi-fitted waist, find the middle of the fitted waist and I
the loose waist .and draw a new hip, using the variform hip I
c~rve. Alternatively, increase the waist by any amount that 1111
Will allow the waist to tit over the hips.
I
 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN-DRAFTING CHAPTER 3 67

Creating Style Lines to Flatter the Wearer

CREATING STYLE LINES

Style lines should be used to create specific de- Simply slash the draft and trace the two
signs. Style lines may be horizontal, across the pieces separately. Notch and separate the two
garment, vertical, up and down the garment, or pieces, for construction. Add seam allowances,
on the bias. i.e., diagonally through the garment. hem, grainlines, and labeling.
Different designs may be created by rear-
ranging the style lines. By using style lines for
trumpet skirts, godets and pleats, fullness may
be added to the hem.

VERTICAL STYLE LINES

Finding the perfect style line takes ti_me, prac-
tice, and experience. Diff~rent style lme place-
ment creates different design effects. 1 th
By making the seam line paralle_ to e
side seam, you can create a sexier design that
makes the wearer look thinner as the eye is
forced to travel the length of the seam upward.
Also, by dividing the skirt visually into
three sections, the eye will assume all three
pieces are equal and judge the wearer thinner.
 ~L' DRAFTING
'""' <":HA!'TER 3 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN ·

Thi" stviE' linE' will makE' the \\!'arer's hips This style line will minimize the hips, but
add visua l weight to the thigh area.
afJ[war n",,'rrllW. but wdl add WE'ight to the
thigh.

A contrast detad will draw the eye upwa rd ,

and create a thmner look. Tops titching, pin tucks, and diagonal lines
will exaggerate this effect, to make the wearer
look taller and slimmer.

Placing a darker
':"'ill make them almos~~lor. ~nthe side Panels
Illusion of a taller thi mvlBlble and create the
• nner person.
 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN DRAFTING CHAPTE.fl :1
69

HORIZONTAL STYLE LINES

STYLE •3-002 POINTEO YOKE

.-

Draw tn the yoke style line, illustrated at 2" down at the

Honzontal l•nes v.•den the figure , so often the style line
IS broken up or angled 1n some manner to help make the
customer appear thtnner.
stde seam. and 4" down the center fold, but tt may be any
measurement the destgner requtres.
Notch and trace out the separate pieces. Add the neces-
sary seam allowances.
Asymmetrical style lines may also be created by drafting
the pattern open.

I 1!~:,. u·J~\];)'1.'§\

I \

l:::::·::::.::.::·:::.- L. ··--·
......... -· ............
I
-~. [f------1
.........
L[- - - - - - - - '

Variations of horizontal style lines.

 70 ERN DRAFTING
CHAPTER 3 PRINCIPLES OF PATT -

Pattern Labeling
••
All final patterns should ~e on folded oak..t
butterfly style, and should mclude: \ ••
u.
(.)
n
"'
• All necessary seam allowances.
• All necessary notches.
••
ONE-WAY ONE-WAY
• The grainline, with arrows in one direttiOn
only because of the nap of knit fabrics.
•a a
STRETCH STRETCH
STABLE KNIT STABLE KNIT
SKIRT BLOCK
• The type of stretch , or the stretch ratio ~
.., ensure that the patterns are only used for 8
SKIRT BLOCK
BACK g ,...0
BACK
0 MED
MED u. 0
NAME the particular stretch they were intended filr •

•a
NAME
DATE CREATED DATE CREATED
• A style number if it is a pattern, or labeled
as "BLOCK" or "SLOPER."
• The name of the particular pattern piece
such as "FRONT" or "BACK." '
••
• The size-Small, Medium, Large, etc.
• The date created, to ensure that you are liS- •a•
ing the most current version of the pattern.
• The name of the patternmaker. ••
Grain lines ••
Each pattern should have a grainline indicated. If you no- •
CROSS GRAIN
tice on each of your pattern pieces, there is a large a.rro;.-. •
On a stretch pattern, the grain line should be in the middle •
of the piece, whenever possible. The grainline for stretth •
patterns should have both arrows pointing the_ same di- a
rection, indicating a "with nap" cutting instruction.
All fabrics have three grains: lengthwise, cro:;,-.ri.~ •
r
m and bias. The lengthwise grain runs parallel to the edge; •
z
G) of the fabric, which ar e also called selvedges. It is th~ JD05I •
stable direction of the fabric and has very little, _if an~
-i
:r •
G)
stretch. The crosswise grain runs across the fahnc fro!l!
~
z selvedge to selvedge. The fabric store salesperson will lui~ •
c~t your fabric on the crosswise grain. The crosswise~ •
tlon ~f knit fabrics has a lot of stretch. The bias WSJ:0 ~ a
the direction formed if you fold a perfect square of fa~ tn
half. It is the diagonal side of the triangle. This di['(!(tldi •
has very little stretch in knit fabrics. •
. It is extremely important that the arrow on your ~ •
nc be placed on the lengthwise grain of the fabric. 11¢ •
en~ures that your garment will hang straight and 'lrill rJf.
tw1st around the body when being worn. When you Jaytill-
the pattern pieces, alwa,ys measure ftom the anow to. .
selvedge edge of the marker paper at
row to be sure that the piece ia • •
both_...,..,
 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN-DRAFTIN G CHAPTER 3 71

MAKING A MARKER FOR CUTTING

Once vou have a f1na1 pattern and fabnc ready. 1t 1s t1me l

to Ia\ out the pattern p1eces. make a marker and cut out
vour garment All garments. mcludmg f~rst samples. should
be cut out us1ng a marker A marker IS a trac1ng of the pat-
. ·-
112'
1' 1'

112'
~

~
tern on special marking paper that has pnnted hnes and 'or
numbers used for hn1ng up the gramhne
Prepanng the marker paper

Draw a line across the top edge of the marker 1 below the
!'<.
-g
l
~
'<.
-g
cut edge. Th1s IS 1n case the fabric. which """ be under- ~ ~
neath. IS not stra1ght.
112' 112'
Draw a lme Y2' 1n from the Sides of the marker paper Th1s
is so that the selvedge will not be 1n the fmal garment. 1' 1'
~
All markers waste 1" of fabnc at each end of the marker.
and 1/2" on each S1de

Tracmg the pattern p1eces.

1'
Trace all the pattern p1eces (nght s1de up). making sure to
··j•••••••••••••S·-·· · · · · · · · · · •••••••
include every notch and any drill marks.

Measure each piece from the gra1nline to ensure that ~eas re

each pattern p tece is perfectly on grain (parallel to the

selvedge). or use the pnnted grid to ensure that every
piece is parallel to the selvedge.

Circle every drill hole so the cutter will know whether it is

reall y a drill mark and not JUSt an incidental mark on the
paper.

-- --r ----~ =-··t· ---------------------------------------------- ·---- ;:--·;_---- ..

. to trace out the pattern pieces.

This is the tncorrect way . and will twist around
The garment will end up OFF-grain,
the body when worn.

..__________________ .............---·;:---i-- __ ..
 TTERN-DRAFTING
l HAf'HR 3 PRIN CIPLES OF PA

Measure the length and width. of the marker Paper so

know h ow
much fabric you w1ll need and how lon ~o~
••
each p IYof the fabric for each garment.
91or
<l'f
••
I
I.
STYLE# 5001
crop lop b&cl< {
STYLE# 5001
crop lOP fronl •••
••
MED
MED
I cu11 self I ctJt 1 setf

I. I
I:
I It
4-
••
•
••
~---------------------~ Place a length of paper underneath the fabric, on the
cutting table, and then place the fabric, lining up all sel-
:
:
I
STYLE# 5001
crop lop back
"?I
\
\1
I
STYLE # 5001
crop top front
:
I
I 1
vedges. Place the marker on top of all layers.

It is also necessary to place one layer of paper between

each color if cutting more than one color, because the
•
•
l J
MED MfQ I
/I
<-...._-_,
cu11 self

1
cu
11
(e lf
•
I
1

f- • 1-'l-1

fabnc layer
•••
•••
under layer of paper

••
••
•
••
 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN - DRAFTING CHAPTER 3 73

DO NOT place lhe marker

will cause lhe garm crookedly on I he fabnc. ThiS
body. enl to hang OFF-grain and IWISI on the
_/
\

~
\
TYLE It 5001
)
\
STYLE. 5001
crop toP tront
rop~back MfJl.
cu\ 1 ...11
cut 1 self

I-----'
<If ... -\
' ~"
,_"('
\

Pin the layer together and cut all layers including paper
together. ' '

Or if the lay is very thick, use weights to hold the marker to

the fabnc. STYLE# 5001 STYLE = 5001
crop top bacor crop top front
Or use a stapler in the discarded areas of the marker MEll .A /.A t\El2
,.""" :ut 1se1f ,.. o...t • self...,..A

Or use marker spray glue to hold the marker down. .A

/

marker of top olaf laters

unde r la yer of papef

Keep the layers of paper with the bundles until ready to

sew, at the machine, so that if you have forgotten a notch,
the operator will be able to check the marker. The marker STYLE# 5001
crop top bacl.
S"' ,E • "-XI'
IS the only way to differentiate between sizes. so the op- MEll ..... ' 'I' ""'!r<W1
..... C\Jtlsotf /
..-'\ Vt::'
erator will sew the corresponding sizes of pieces together. / wt • ....r /..-'\
/
 7-4 CHAPTER 3 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN-DRAFTING

Test Your Knowledge of the

...
Material in This Chapter
1. \\nat JS a sloper?
9.
10.
11.
What is negative ease?
What is garment ease?
What is design ease?
•
••
2 \\nat is a pattern?
3. ·what are patterns used for?
4. What is the difference between wo\·en pat-
12.
13.
What are the seam a llowa nces on slo
When should you use one-way-stretc~ers? ••
••
ternmakiog and stretch pattern making? slopers?
5. Explain the technique of"matching of 14. Why should you exagger ate the siz
seams." ga rment? e of a
6. Explain what is meant b\' the term ·'true-
ing seams.- •
7 How much should binding be r educed?
15. Which direction are measurements
duced for one-way-stretch? re- ••
How much should banding be reduced?
••
••
••
••
••
••
••
••
••
••
•
••
 CHAPTER 4

Slopers and Reductions

About This Chapter

This chapter tllu~trate · h d'ffi
~tretch d . • " t e 1 erent measurements and
- d bl rke uctton::; u,:;ed in the den•lopment of stretch slopers
an oc s. •
To
. begin. chooo:e
. • the :s'tt·etc h 1.a t'10 t I1at apph.es to your
particular
. fabnc · then choose tl1e appropnate . m easure ments
from th1s chapter.
Follow· the direct·
. IOns m · the next chapters using measure·
ments and reductions from this chapter.

Sloper Reductions
This section illustrates the differ ent stretch reductions used
in t h e development of str etch slope rs and blocks.

A COMPLETE SET OF PROFESSIONAL SLOPERS INCLUDES:

Two- &
Stable Moderate Super· Four-way
knit Stretchy stretch stretch Rib knit
knit
25-50% 50-75% 75-100% 100% in both over 100%
0-25%
stretch stretch stretch directions stretch
stretch
3.5% smaller 5% smaller 10% smaller 10% smaller
Reduction for 0 % smaller 2% smaller
for across for across both directions for across
stretch for across for across
measurements measurements measurements
measurements measurements
'.96.5 ' .95 '.90 ·.90 in both
Multiply your ·o '.98
directions
measurement by Yes Yes Same as Yes
Yes Yes
Skirt super-stretch
Yes Yes Same as Yes
Yes Yes
Pant super-stretch
Yes Yes Same as Yes
Yes Yes
Top super-stretch
Yes Yes Same as Yes
Yes Yes
Dresses super-stretch
Yes Yes Yes Yes
Yes Yes Yes N/A
Oversized top N/A N/A N/A
Catsuits N/A N/A N/A Yes N/A
N/A N/A N/A Yes N/A
Leotard N/A N/A
Bikini N/A

75
 CHAF"l ER • SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS I

~
Slopers
A ;;Joper· or ma;:ter block is a template of the desir-ed fit 1.1
a croquis: it ne,·er has any seam allowances or details.' ~e
experienced patternmaker wr ll never star·t each draft r'l'he
~
~
.,
~

•••
scratch but instead will tr·ace the slopcr th~n add details : 1\t
0

seam a llowa nces to create a pattern. By u s rng a s loper Wit lld

perfected fit, the pattern maker must on ly make s rnall act· h a
ments to the finished pattern rather t h an making exte~U~t­
fitting corr-ections to each patte rn.
81

••
Ve

MISSES STABLE KNIT REDUCTIONS ••

Zero percent smaller 1n crossw•se d~rectron without any reduc tions in lengthwise direction .
Use these measurements when draftrng slopers for fabncs that stretch from 0% to 25%.
--- -
Multiply your across
measurements by Extra Small Small Medium Large
---- • ••
Extra Large

1
2
Bust 0 for stable kmts
0 for stable kmts
2
31'/z
23'12
6
1
33 /z
25 '12
10
35 112
14
38'12
18
4.,.-;;;-- ••
•
Was! 27 '12 30'12 33'; ,
3 H•p 0 for stable kmts 34 1/z 36 '12 38'12 41 112

•••
4 Crotch depth
44 ';,
No reduction 10 10 114 10 112 10 %
5 Wa•st to knee 11
No reduction 23 23'1• 23'12 23%
6 Wa•st to ankle 24
No reduc t1on 38 112 39 39'12 40
7 Ank•e 0 for stable knits 40 ';,
7 31, 8 8 '1· 8'12
8 Knee 0 for stable knits B'J,
13% 13 71a 14 % 14 'Ia
9 Front crotch 0 for stable knits 15%
10 Bac~ crotch 2'1a 2'1• 2% 2%
0 for stable knits 2 71a 23/,
11 3 3'1• 3'12
Crotch angle 0 for stable knits 1 33/.
12 Nape to wa•st 1'1a 1'1• 1 '1•
No reductton 15 % 1 3/e
13 Back neck 16 1la 16 % 17'1a
No reduc tion 2% 17 %
14 Back neck nse 2 '12 2'12 2 '12
0 for stable knits '!. 2%
15 Shoulder length 'Ia 'Ia 7
1a 7
16 Across bac~ No reductton 5'1a /a
5 112 6 6'12
17 Sleeve length 0 for stable knits 7 7
No reductton 7'1• 7'12 7%
18 Shoulder p1tch 22 31, 23 8
19 Steep 0 for stable kntts 23'1• 23'12 23'/.
1% 1 '12
20 Wnst 0 for stable kntts 1 112 1 '12 1%
10 % 11 1la
21 Neck 0 for stable kntts 11 71a 12 % 13%
5'12 6'1, 7
22 Bust span 0 for stable kntts 14 '12 7314 8'h
23 Bust level 0 for stable knits 14 31, 15
6% 15 114 15 1h
No reduction 6 '1e 7 7 112
10 10 '1• 7 7/a
10 112 10 % 11
 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS CHAPTER 4

Eacl'1 kn·t fabnc 1'1as a d 'fer • - -

the reducloons needed to d:nt s.retch ratoo, a"d each garment must be drafted accordmgl\. The chart below Illustrates
aft stooers. ana eventuaO) patterns. tor each fabHc.
Stable kn•ts 5" stretches to 6 ,·
18% to 25% stretch Reduce b\ 0% Use the measurements
Moderate kn1ts e'actly as recorded
5" stretcl'1es to 7 26% to 50% stretch
.
Reduce by 2% Multiply your ac1oss
Stretchy kn•ts measurements by 0. 98
5" stretches to 8 51% to 75% stretch Reduce by 3% Mult•ply your across
Super-stretch kn•ts measurements by 0.97
5" stretches to to• 16% to 100% stretch Reduce by 5% Multiply your ac•oss
R•b kn•ts measurements by 0.95
5" stretches over 10" Over 100% stretch Reduce by 10% Mult1ply your across
Four-way-stretch measurements by 0.90
5" stretches to 10" 100% stretch m Reduce by 5% Multiply your measurements
kn•ts •n both d~rect•ons both d~rect1ons across; by 0.90 m both d~recti ons
Reduce by 10%
lengthwise
Any fabnc that stretches less than 18% should be treated a; a stretch woven and should have the ease removed.

MISSES MODERATE REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller •n crossw1se d~rectlon w1thout any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabncs that stretch from 25% to 50%.
Multiply your across measurements by 0.98, 2% smaller, except for the should er measurement, because the final garment
will have twill tape to stab1hze the seam and prevent 1t from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large

2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust X .98 31 7le 33 31• 36 '1• 39'1• 42%
2 Wa1st X .98 24 26 28 3le 31 'Is 34 >;.
3 H1p X ,g8 34'1. 36'1. 39'1• 42'1• 45 %
4 Crotch depth No reduct1on 10 11e 10% 10 % 10 11• 11 '1•
5 Wa1st to knee No reduction 23'1• 23 % 23% 23 71• 24 'le
6 Wa1st to ankle No reduction 38 31• 39'1• 39 31• 40 '1• 40 31·
7 Ankle X .98 7 '1• 8 8'1• 8'12 8 31•
8 Knee / .98 13 'le 13 1le 14% 14 'I• 15%
9 Fro nt crotch X .98 2'1• 2'1• 2 112 2% 2 11•
10 Back c rotc h X .98 2'1• 3 3'1• 3 112 3%
..< .98 1 1 '1• 1 '1• 1% 1%
11 Crotch angle
No reduction 15 7lo 16%
7
16 1• 17 % 17 718
12 Nape to waist
No reduction 2% 2'12 2'12 2'1• 2%
13 Back neck
14 Back neck rise X .98 >;. 'I• 1
1a 'I• 'I•
No reduction 5'1• s 'l• 6 '1• 6 '/. 7 '1•
15 Shoulder length 1
8
X .98 7 7 '13 7% 7 1•
16 Across back 23 % 23 % 23 71e
No reduction 22'1• 23'1•
17 Sleeve length 1 '12 1 112 1 112 1%
X .98 1%
18 Shoulder pitch 11 11• 12 12 % 13 112
X .98 10 '12
19 Bicep 7'1• 8 8 '/.
X .98 5 31• 6'12
20 Wrist 14 112 14 31· 15 15 '1•
X .98 14 '1•
21 Neck 6 '12 6 31• 7 '1• 7'12 8
X .98
22 Bust span 10 10 '1• 10% 10% 11
No reduction
23 Bust level
 -liAf'TEA. SLOPERS ANDRE
oUCTIONS

••
reductiOns on lengthw•~; ~~r~~~ .
EDUCTIONS . · ron •
MISSES STRETCHY KNIT R .
tch from 50~o 0
.,..,,E'e PE>rc<'nt sma •er •n cross'"se d~rec '~pers for fabrics that ~trethe shoulder measurement, ecaus
1 n wothout any o. b e th f •
e onal 9arllle
Use these measurements when drafM9 S % smaller. exc ept 0 ~ nt ~
0 97 3
Multopl) your across measurements b)' and. prevent ot from stretchong. d. m Large Extr L •
Will have~;, oil tape to staboloze the seam ~rg
9
Small small Me IU
_ . Extra 14 ,_ ----.._
Multoply by 10 18 •
6

.97
31~ • 33 ''> 35 '1a 38 % ~ •
1Bust ~~ ~~ ~~ ~ ~~
2 Waost 97 36% 38 % 41 >;, 45 ';, •
~~.;: ;~t: ;~:;. ~g~: ~:~ •
3 Hop '.97
4 Crotch depth No reductoon
5 Waost to knee
6 Waost to ankle
No reductoon
No reductoon ~~~;: 39 '1• 39 % 40 ;· 40 ';, •
97 7 7 'Ia 8 'Ia 8 Ia 8';8
7 Ankle ''a 13 % 14 '1a 14 % 15 1; •
8 Knee '· 97 13''• 1 2 ''a 2% 2' '8
9 Front crotch '.97 2'1a 32 1• 3 'f• 3 '12 3;;. •
10 Back crotch ~ .97 2 'a 'I
11 Crotch angle 97 1 1 1la 1 '1• 1 4 1~ W
12 Nape to waost No reduct1on 15'1a 16 % 16 % 17 % 17 7; 8
13 Back neck No reduct1on 2% 2 112 2 '12 2 '12 2% •
14 Back neck rose .97 >;. 'Ia 'Ia 'Ia 7;
8 •
15 Shoulder length No reduction 5'1• 5% 6 '1• 6% 7';,
16 Across back .97 7 7% 7% 7% 8 •
17 Sleeve length No reduction 22 'Ia 23 'Ia 23 % 23 % 23 7/o
18 Shoulder potch .97 1% 1 '12 1 '12 1 '12 1% •
19 Bocep X .97 10% 11 'Is 11 71a 12 % 13% •
20 Wrost X .97 5 31· 6% 7'17 7% 8'1.
21 Neck X .97 1
14 1a 14 % 14 % 14 71s 15 •
22 Bust span X .97 1
6 12 6% 7 7% 7 7/a
23 Bust level No reduction 9 1a
7
10 10 '1• 10 '12 10 3/, •

MISSES SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS

F1ve percent smaller on crossw1se d~rection without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
••
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%.
Multiply your across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except for the s houlder measurement, because the final garment
will have tw~e to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
••
Multiply by Extra Small
2
Small

6
Medium

10
Large

14
Extra Large ••
••
1 Bust 18
X .95 30 71a
2 Wa1st
X .95
32% 35'1s 38 41 %
3 H1p 23 % 25'/a 27 112
X .95 33 % 30% 33 3/•
4 Crotch depth 35%

••
No reduction 38 40 71a 44 1/a
5 Wa1st to knee 10 '1s 10 %
No reduction 10 % 10 71s 11 '/s
6 Waist to ankle 23'1s 23%
No reduction 23 % 23 71a 24 '/s
7 Ankle 38'/. 39 '1•
X .95 39 '/. 40 3/•

••
8 Knee 7 '12 40 '1•
X.95 7% 8 8 '!. 8%
9 Front crotch 13 13 %
10 Back c rotch X.95 2 '1a
13% 14 % 14 7/a
X .95 2'1• 2%
11 Crotch angle 2 31· 2'12 2 3/•
12
13
14
15
Nape to waist
Back neck
Back neck rise
Shoulder length
X .95
No reduction
No reduction
X .95
No reduction
1
7
15 1s
2%
'!.
3
1 '1a
16%
2'12
'Ia
3'1a
1 '1·
16 71s
2'12
7
3%
1%
17 %
2'12
3%
1%
17 '1s
2%
••
16 Across back 5'1· la 7
la 7
/s

•
X .95 5% 6'1•
17 Sleeve length 7 6% 7'1•
No reduction 7% 7%
18 Shoulder pitc h 22 % 7 71e 8
19 Bicep X .95 23 11a 23 %
X .95
1% 1% 23% 23 7'8
20 Wrist 10 '1• 1 '12 1 112 1 112
21 Neck X .95 11 11 %
X .95 5% 6 '1· 12% 13
22 Bust span 13 71a 7 8 3!1
X .95 14 731·
23 Bust level 6% 14'1•
No reduction 6% 14'12 14 3/•
9% 6 71e 7'1• 7'.4
9 7/a 10 10 11, 10'fi
 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS CHAPTER 4 79

MISSES RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS

Tel"' perce-nt sma le• •n cross
Use these measurements w;~~~~~~t•on \\ •thout any reduct•ons 1n le;othwtse d•rectton
Mult•pl\ your across measurem t mg slopers for fabncs that stretch iOO% and over ·
men!"'" have II\ 111 tape to stab~~es•~l 0 90 10% smaller e'cept for the shoulder measurement. because the f1nal gar-
- ~ e seam and pre\ ent •t from stretchmg
Multiply by Extra Small Small M edtum Large Extra Large
2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust )( .90 39 11e
2 29 1 • 31 33 • 36
Wa•st ;., 90 28 31• 32
3 H1p 22 23 e 26' 16
.90 32 33 3 .. 36 38 -\',. 41 ,,
4 Crotch depth No reduct1on 10 11\ 11 11
10'. 10 10 !'>18 8
5 Wa1st to knee No reduct•on 23 • 23 '• 23')18 23'/a 24 •;,
6 Wa•st to ankle No reduct•on 38'. 39 .• 39 31• 40 1
1• 40 31·
7 Ankle .90 7 11'1 7'Jtl, 8
X 7 7 •
8 Knee X 90 12'. 12 Jr• 13 1/a 13'1e 14
9 Front crotch 2 2 114 2'1• 2%
' 90 2'1• 3'/.,
10 Back crotch X 90 2'• 2-/, 3 3 1/4
11 Crotch angle " .90 1 1 1 'Ia 1 114 1 1 /o~
12 Nape to wa•st No reduct•on 15'/o 16% 16 7lo 17 % 17 7 /o
13 Back neck No reduct1on 2 11o 2''? 2'12 2'12 2%
14 Back neck nse .90 'I• r, 'I• 'lo 'I•
1
15 Shoulder length No reduct1on 5'/.. 5'1• 6 '1• 6 31• 7 /•

16 Across back .90 7 7% 7% 7 11o 8

17 Sleeve length No reduct1on 22 71s 23 'I• 23 % 23% 23 '1•
18 Shoulder p•tch .90 1 'I• 1% 1 31o 1 3lo 1 '12
19 B•cep .90 9% 10 % 11 11 31· 12%
20 Wnst v .90 5 '1• 6 6% 7% 8
13% 13 '12 13'/. 14
21 Neck )( .90 13 'I• 7 •;.
22 Bust span X .90 6 6 '1• 6 '12 6'1•
9% 9% 9 '/. 10
23 Bust level No reduct1on 9'1•

MISSES FOUR-WAY-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller 1n crossw1se d~rection and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions.
Multiply your measurements by 0.90, 10% smaller, in both directions, except for the shoulder measurement, because
the f.nal garment will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching. Note that four-way stretch has
memory and will return to the ong.nal shape; therefore, twill tape is not necessary to stabilize the shoulders.
Small Medium Large Extra Large
Multiply by Extra Small
6 10 14 18
2
30 '1• 31 32 33'/•
J( .90 29 '1• 26'1s
1 Bust 23 23 '1• 24 314
X .90 22 36
2 Wa1st 32 '1• 33 31• 34 %
J( .90 32 9%
3 Hip 9 '1• 9% 9'h
X .90 9 '1• 22 % 22'12
4 Crotch depth 20 '1• 22 22'1•
Waist to knee
X .90
37 37'1• 37'12 37 3/•
5 34 '1• 7'12
Waist to ankle
X .90 7% 7%
6 7 7 '1• 13 '1•
X .90 12 •;, 12% 13
7 Ankle 12 '1•
X .90 2 'I• 2'1• 2'1•
8 Knee 2 2
X .90 3 '1• 3 '1• 3 '13
9 Front crotch 3 3 1 'Is
X .90 1 1 1
10 Back crotch 1 16
x .90 15 % 15 •;, 15 31·
11 Crotch angle 14 'I• 2'12
X .90 2 •;, 2 •;, 2'/2
12 Nape to waist No reduction 2% 'I•
'I• 'I• 'I•
13 Back neck "Is 6 6 '/•
No reduction
5 '1• 5'12 5 31•
14 Back neck rise No reduction 7'1• 7%
7 '1s 7%
15 Shoulder length 7 23'1• 23 %
No reduction 23 23 '1•
16 Across back No reduction
22 '1• 1 '12 1 '12 1 •;,
1 '1• 1 '12
17 Sleeve length No reduction 10% 10'1s 11
9% 10
18 Shoulder pitch X .90 6 6% 6%
5 '/s 5%
19 Bicep X .90 14 71s 15 15
14% 14 'Is
20 Wrist No reduction 6 '1• 6% 6 'h
6 6 '1• 10
21 Neck X .90 9'1• 9'1• 10
Bust span
9 '1•
22 X .90
23 Bust level
 ~0 \'HAf'HR 4 SLO PERS AN D R
rou c TIONS
,.,.
I

- -...______,_
-
JUNIOR SIZE REDUCTIO
NS
se dorectlon "l!hOU tabncs that stretc
-t"'"O pe..cen! smalle' .n crosS\'\ I d ft•na sfopers for
~se ~hese measurements v. h~~ ::recOrded '"'thout any
Use your measurements exac \
- . -
-
Multiply your across
thWISe direction.
- jan~ reduct1ons 1n ~e~r~m O% to 25%.
reduc tions

Extra small Small Medium Large

,.
---- ••
Extra Lar
~
~

measurements by - -- 10 14 ~

••.
18
2
34
6
----
36 39 ----:;----
32 29 32 35
0 for stable kmts 25 27
1 Bust 0 for stable kmts 37 39 42 45
2 Watst 35 10 3/• 11 11 1;,
0 tor stable knitS 10 •., 10 '?
3 Htp No reduct ton 23 3/a 23% 23 7;,

••
Crotch depth 22 1A 23 'Ia
4 No reduction 38 3/• 39 '/• 39 3/• 40 1/,
5 Watst to knee No reduct1on 38 1 1 9%
7 •• 8 3 1a 8 7/a 9 ';,
6 Watst to anlde 0 tor stable kmts 14 'Is 15 1/a 15'1.
7 Ankle 13 51 8 14 1/a
8 Knee
9 Front crotch
10 Back crotch
0 for stable kntts
o tor stable kntts
o tor stable kntts
o tor stable kntts
2''"'
3
1
2%
3
1 '/a
2'12
3'/•
1 '/•
2%
3 112
1%
16 7/a
2';,
3';,
1';, ••
••
11 Crotch angle 15% 15 7/a 16% 17'1.
No reduct ton 2 7/a
12 Naoe to watst No reductton 2% 2% 2% 3 ';,
13 Sac• neck 7
/a 1 1 1'/,
Back neck nse o for stable kmts 3;,
5%
·~ 4 Ia 5 5% 5';,

••
No reductton
15 Shoulder iength 7% 8 8% 8%
16 Across back o for stable kn1ts 7 'I•
24 '/a
No reductton 23% 23 % 23 7/a 24'1.
17 Sleeve length 1 '/a 1 112 1 112 1%
18 Snouloer pttch 0 for stable knits 1%
19 Steep
20 Wnst
21 Neck
0 for stable kntts
0 for stable kntts
0 tor stable knits
10 3/•
5 7/a
14 %
11 112
6 1/a
15 '/•
6 7/s
12 1/4
6%
15 7/a
13
6%
16 112
13 3/.
6 7/a
17 ••
••
22 Bust span 0 for stable knits 6% 7 7% 7%
23 Bust level No reduction 9 7/s 10 % 10 7/a 11 % 11 7/a

JUNIOR SIZE MODERATE REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller tn crosswtse dtrection without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers tor fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%.
••
Multtply your across measurements by 0.98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
w111 have twtll tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
Multiply by
••
•
Ext ra Small Small M e dium L a rge Extra Large
2

••
6 10 14 18
1 Bust / .98
2 Wa1st 31 % 33 % 35 1/4 1
41 '/s
/. .98 38 / •
3 Htp 24 1/z 26'12 28% 34 '/•
X .98 31 %

••
4 Crotch depth 34 '/• 36 '/• 38'/ • 44 1/s
No reduction 41 1/s
5 Watst to knee 10 '/• 10 1/2 10 '1. 11 11 '/•
No reduction 22 7/s
6 Waist to ankle 23 1/s 23% 23% 23 7/s
7 No reduction 38 '/,
Ankle 38'1.

••
J( .98 39'/• 39 '1. 40 '/•
8 Knee 7 3/. 8'/•
X .98 8 '1. 9'1• 9%
9 Front crotch 13 % 13 7/s
X .98 14 % 14 7/s 15%
10 Back crotch 2'/s 2'1•
X .98 2% 2% 2 3/•

••
11 Crotch angle 2 7/s 3
12 X .98 1 3 1/s 3% 3 5:s
Nape to waist
13 Back neck
No reduction
15%
1 '/s 1 1/s 1 2/ 7 1!iS
No reduction 15 'Is 16 % 17 3rs
14 Back neck rise 2% 16 7/ s

•
X .98 2% 2 '1. 3 1/2
15 Shoulder length '!. 2 7/s
16 No reduct ion 'Is 1 1 1 •,,

••
Across back 4'/s 5
17 X .98 5% 5',,
Sleeve length 7'1• 5%
18 Shoulder pitch
No reduction
23%
7%
23 %
8 8% as.•
19 Bicep X .98 23 7/s 24 3, ,
X .98 1% 1% 24 1/a
20 Wrist 10'12 1 112 1 '12 1'1!
21 Neck X .98 5 3;, 11'/• 12 12'1. 13'/z
22 X .98 6
Bust span 14 •;, 6 '1• 6 '12 6 3/•
23 Bust level X .98 14 7/a 15 '12
No reduction
6 3/7 6% 16 '/e 16$/•
9% 7 71fe 7$11
10 1/a 10% 11 1/e 1~
 81
SLOPERS AND REDUCTION S C HAPTER 4

JUNIOR SIZE STRETCHY KNIT REDUCTIONS

Three
Us<' percent
these smaller tn crossw·
measurements wh n ~e d~rectlon Without any reduct1ons 1n lengthwise d~rect1on.
w1ll have tw111 tape to stab•il~e~ents by 0.97. 3% smaller. except for the shoulder measurement. because the final garment
Multiply your across measu e rafttng slopers for fabncs that stretch from 50% to 75%.
e e seam and prevent 1t from stretchtng.
Medium Large Extra Large
Multiply by Extra Small Small
10 14 18
2 6
35 37 !'o't' 40 31·
1 Bust X 97 31 33 34
2 Wa1st 24 • 26 • 28'1• 31
X .97 40'1• 43 %
H1p 35 • 37 7 18
3 " 97 34
10 3 /4 11 11 11•
4 Crotch depth No reduct1on 10 • 10'.1:;-
23 71•
Wa1st to knee 23'.'• 23 % 23%
5 No reduct1on 22'·• 40'1•
6 Wa1st to ankle No reduct1on 38 1 /.a
3 39 11• 39 31•
38 ·• a% 9 9%
7 Ankle X.97 7 ' II\ 8 1~ 1

14 'I• 14% 15'1•

8 Knee X .97 13 '• 13 31. 2'1•
2 1;.. 2 '1• 2'12
9 Front crotch ' .97 2'/• 3%
3 3 '17 3 31•
10 Back crotch X .97 2''• 1%
1 'le 1 'I• 1 217
11 Crotch angle Xg7 1 17%
15 3 /e 15 '1• 16 31• 16 71•
12 Nape to watst No reduct1on 2 71e 3 '12
Back neck No reduct1on 2 3 /e 2% 2'/•
13 1 1 1 'I•
14 Back neck nse X .97 ';. 'I• 5'1e 5'/•
No reduct1on 4 7/e 5 5%
15 Shoulder length a% B'l•
.97 7'1• 7% 8
16 Across back X
23 7/e 24 'I• 24 %
17 Sleeve length No reduct1on 23% 23% 1 '12
1% 1'12 1 '12
18 Shoulder pttch X .97 1 113 12 % 13%
.97 10% 11 'Is 11 7ls
19 B1cep X
6'1• 6% 6%
Wnst X .97 5 '/• 6 16'12
20 14 31· 15 % 16
21 Neck X .97 14 'I• 7 7%
.97 6% 6% 6'1•
22 Bust span X
10 '12 11 11 '12
No reduction 9% 10
23 Bust level

JUNIOR SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS

Five percent smaller tn crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafttng slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%.
Multiply your across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
Medium Large Extra Large
Extra Small Small
Multiply by
10 14 18
2 6
34 'I• 37 39 71•
30% 32 '1• 33 '1•
X .95 25% 27 '12 30%
1 Bust 23 31• 42 31·
X .95 37 39%
2 Waist 33'1• 35'1• 11 'I•
X .95 10 112 10 31· 11
3 Hip 10 '1• 23 71s
No reduction
23'1• 23% 23%
4 Crotch depth 22'1• 40 '1•
No reduction 38 31• 39'1• 39'/.
5 Waist to knee 38 '1• 9%
No reduction 8 8% 9
6 Waist to ankle 7 '12 14 'I•
X .95 13% 13 '1• 14 %
7 Ankle X .95 13 2'12 2%
2 2'1• 2%
8 Knee X .95 3% 3 '1•
3 3
9 Front crotch 2 31• 1'1• 1%
X .95 1 1 11s
10 Back crotch X .95 1 16'1• 17 %
15% 15 7ls 16%
11 Crotch angle No reduction 2 71• 3'12
2% 2 '/.
12 Nape to waist No reduction
2% 1 1 'Is
'Is 1
13 Back neck X .95 'I• 5% 5% 5 '/s
Back neck rise 4 '/s 5 8 31•
14 No reduction 7% 8 8%
15 Shoulder length 7 '1• 24 '1• 24%
X .95 23% 23'1s
16 Across back No reduction
23% 1% 1 1h 1 1h
1% 1% 13
17 Sleeve length X .95 11 'Is 12%
10 11• 11 6'h
18 Shoulder pitch X .95 6 6'1•
5% 5'1• 16'1•
19 Bicep X .95 14% 15 15%
13'1• 7 7'1•
20 Wrist X .95 6'h 6 31•
6'1• 10% 10 31· 11'1•
21 Neck X .95 9 71•
Bust span
9%
22 No reduction
23 Bust level
 t H A P T ER SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS •

JUNIOR RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS ----~----------=

oo%
· n w1thout any reductiO
ns ,n lengthwise direction.
Tt>n pe,ce.,t smaller tn crosswtse dtrectiO 1 ers for fabncs that stretc
Use these measurements when drafttng sop
h1

10 % smaller. except for the_s ou

and over.
- ---. -.
h Jder measuremen t. because the final
9ar.
•
•
•
Multtply your ac,oss measurements by 0.90. and prevent It from stretCh ing. - - - -........__ ~.
ment "'"have tw•!l tape to stabil1ze the seam Small Medium Large Extra l"" •
Multiplyby ExtraSmall 10 1~
~ .
==========~-:--' -.90; -;:;--------;~;:----:3~0~·~~.~--~26
32~'I•%
2 6

28 3,, 24 ';,
35 'Is
28{• 3317;;-----
,,; ,•
1 Bust 2 , .90 2 •;,
2 Wa•st 3 3 'I• 35 'Is 37 ;, 40 ';
3 Htp ' 90 31
10 '.. 10 'h 10 31· 11 11 '/
4 Crotch depth No reduction ''• 23 '1• 23 % 23 % 23';, II
5 Wa•st to knee No reduct1on ~~ ,_': 38 314 39 'I• 39 '1• 40'~'
6 Wa•st to ankle No reduct1on
7 7 'h 8 8 'h S·j:
7 Ankle ' .90 12 ,1, 12 % 13 'Is 13 % 14
8 Knee ' .90 2 2 2'1• 2% 2';,
9 Front crotch .90 2'1• 2 31• 3 3 'Ia 3';,

•
10 Sac• crotch ' .90 1 1 1 'Is 1•;,
1
'1 Crotch angle ' go 15 3.~8 15 718 16% 162 '1s 17'1.
'2
1'3
14
'5
16
Nape to wa•st
Back neck
Back neck nse
Shoulder ler1gth
Across back
No reduction
No reduct1on
90
No reduc t1on
.90
2 3/8
"
%
4 '1•
7 'I•
2%

5
7%
'Is 1
5%
8
3
2 'j,

5%
1'
1 /8

8 '13
3';,
1'A
571,
831,
•I
I
17 Sleeve length No reduction 23 % 23 % 23 71s 24 'Is 24'1.
•8 Sl'louloer pttch X .90 1 'I• 1 21r 1 '13 1% 13;, I
19 B•cep .90 9% 10 % 11 11 "!. 12'1.
20 Wnst X .90 5'1• 5'12 5% 6 6'1. I
21 Neck X .90 13 11s 13 % 14 '1• 14 % 15 3/,
22 Bust span X .90 6 6 11s 6% 6% 63/c
I
23 Bust level No reduction 8 la
7
9% 9% 10 '1• 10 3/ • I
----------------------------------------------
I
JUNIOR FOUR-WAY-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS I
Ten percent smaller n crossw1se d1rect1on and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction. I
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions.
Multiply your measurements by 0.90, 10% smaller, in both directions, except for the shoulder measurement, because the I
fmal \!arment w111 have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching. 1
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large
2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust
X .90 28"/. 29 %
2 Waist
X .90
30 % 31 '12 32'1s
3 H1p 22 '12 23 % 24 '1• 26 '/s
X .90 25 '1•
4 Crotch depth 31 % 32%
X .90 33'1• 34 'I• 35 '/s
5 Waist to knee 9% 9 71a 10 10 10'/8
X .90 21 %
6 Waist to ankle 21 71a 22 22 22 '/•
7 Ankle
X .90 36%
X .90
36% 36 71a 37 37 '/•
8 Knee 7 7%
X .90 7'12 7% 8
9 Front crotch 12 '!. 12 112
X .90 12 % 13 13 1/ S
10 Back crotch 2 2
11 Crotch angle
X .90 3 3
2 2 1la 2''•
X .90 3 3'1a 3 '1•
12 Nape to waist 1 1 11a
13 Back neck X .90 14% 1 '1a 1 '1• 1'·•
No reduction 14 71a 15 1
14 Back neck rise 2% 15 % 15 ''
No reduction 2% 2% 2'1•
15 Shoulder length % 7 2%
No reduction 1a 71a 1
16 Across back 4'/s 5 %
17 Sleeve length No reduction 5 5'1· 5 3.'s
7 '1· 7%
18 Shoulder pitch No reduction 7% 7% 8
23 % 23 112
19 Bicep No reduction 23% 23'i
1% 1% 23%
20 Wrist X .90 1 112 1'f.
9% 10 1 1/2
21 Neck X .90 10% 11
No reduction
5'1• 5% 10 31•
22 Bust span 14 % 5 '12 5% 5 3/•
23 Bust level X .90 14 71a
6 15'1• 15% 15'.4
X .90 6
9% 9%
6 '/a 6'1. •'~'
9% 10 ~
 SLOPERS AND REDUCT IONS C HAPTER 4 83

Petite Size Reductions

PETITE STABLE KNIT REDUCTIONS
Zero percent smaller in crosswise d~re . . . . - - -
Use these measurements when dr ft Ctlon Without any reductions m lengthwise d~rect1on.
Multiply you r across measurement~ ~ng, slopers for fabrics that stretch from 0% to 25%.
Will have tw111 tape to stabilize th Y • 0% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement. because the f1nal garment
e seam and prevent 11 from stretchmg.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large

2 6 10 14 18
1
1 Bust X 0 31 33' 35'h 38', 41 '

2 Waist xo 23 1 ·.- 25'' 27 •t, 30 1h 33'h

3 H1p 34' ., 36'·, 38 •;, 41 'h 44 11:>
0
4 Crotch depth No reduction 10 ta 10 ''8 10% 10 '1• 11 'I•
5 Waist to knee No reduct1on 21 'r, 21 >ta 21 7ls 22 'I• 22 1/e
6 Wa1st to ankle No reduct1on 36' 37'Je 37 % 38''• 38%
7 Ankle s~~a 6 Is 7 '/• 7'!. 7'/o
"-0 14 ':, 15 1/.1
8 Knee xo 13
1
'• 13 '1• 14 '/•
2 1 1..
g Front crotch XG 2 'Ia 2'1· 2% 2'1e
10 Back crotch xo 2 Ia 3 3 '1• 3'h 3 311
11 Crotch angle 1 1 'Ia 1 'I• 1% 1'/•
"- 0 16 3/•
12 Nape to wa1st No reduction 14 3/. 15 11• 15 3/• 16 11•
2% 2 3/o 2' ' }
13 Back neck No reduction 2'1• 2%
14 Bac k neck rise xo 'I• 'I• % '~< 'I•
5'/• 5% 5%
15 Shoulder length No reduction 4 'I• 5
8 '1•
Across back xo 7 '1• 7 '/o 7'/. 8
16 22 22'/.1
17 Sleeve length No reduction 21 'I• 21 'h 21 3/•
1% 1 1h 1 'h
18 Shoulder pitch xo 1% 1 31•
12% 13%
19 Bicep xo 10% 11 'I• 11 'I•
7'1• 8 8 31•
20 Wrist xo 5 31· 6 '12
14 'I• 14 'h 14 '/.
21 Neck xo 13 % 14
7 7'1• 7 71•
Bust span xo 6% 6 7la
22 9% 9 '1• 10 'Is 10%
23 Bust level No reduction 9%

PETITE SIZE MODERATE KNIT REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%.
Multiply your across measurements by 0.98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
wi ll have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
Medium Large Extra Large
Extr a Small Small
Multiply by
10 14 18
2 6
34 31· 37 1· 3 40%
X .98 30 '1• 32 '1• 32 71e
1 Bust 25 27 29 '1•
X .98 23 40% 43%
2 Waist 33 31• 35 31• 37 31•
X .98 10 % 10 71• 11 'I•
3 Hip 10'1• 10% 22 %
No reduction 21 'I• 22'1•
4 Crotc h depth 21 % 21 'Is 38%
No reduction 37 % 38 '1•
5 Waist to knee 36 % 37 '1• 7'12
No reduc tion 6 31• 7 7'1•
6 Waist to ankle 6'/2 14 'Ia
X .98 13 % 14 14 %
7 Ankle X .98 13 2 '/2 2'1<
2'1• 2'1•
8 Knee X .98 2 '1• 3% 3%
3 3'1•
9 Front c rotch X .98 2'1• 1 '1• 1%
1 1 '1• 1 '1•
10 Back c rotch 16 11• 16"1.
X .98
14 % 15'1• 15 31•
11 Crotc h angle No reduction 2% 2'12
2% 2%
12 Nape to waist No reduction
2'1• 3j. 'Is
% % 'I•
13 Back nec k X .98 5 '1• 5% 5%
4'1• 5 8'1•
14 Back neck rise No reduction ' 7 ·1· 8
7 '/• 7 '12 22 '/ •
15 Shoulder length X .98 21 >;. 22
21 '/• 21 112 1 'h
16 Ac ross bac k No reduction 1% 1% 1 '/2
Sleeve length 1% 12% 13 1/o
17 X .98 11 11 'Is
18 Shoulder pitch X .98
10 '/• 7 '/• 1 7/o 8%
5% 6% 14 '/2
19 Bic ep X .98 13 3/• 14 14 '/•
13 112 7 7'1• 7%
20 Wrist X .98 6%
6%
9% 10 10 ' 1a
21 Nec k X .98 9'/• 9%
22 Bust span No reduction
23 Bust level
 $4 l HAPTEA 4 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS
,.•
I

PETITE STRETCHY KNIT REDUCTIONS . . direction.

d ctions In lengthWISe
Three percent smaller 1n crosswise direct1on w1thout any re u stretch from 50% to 75 Yo.
Use these measurements when draft,ng slopers for fabncs that
MuJt,ply your across measurements by 0.97. 3% smaller. ex~~fetchmg.
o
1 for the shoulder measurement, b
--
ecause the fin
al 9arlllent
•••
v.ill have tw1ll tape to stabil1ze the seam and prevent 11 from
Multiply by Extra ma
s 11 Small
Medium
10
Large
14
E~
------..::_arg6
18--.o.....
••
1
2
3
Bust
Wa1st
H1p
X

' 97
97
97
30 '
~~
33'1•
1 118
2

~%
6
~~;.;
10 , 18
34 %
26%
~%
10%
37%~
29:1·
~~
10 '1•
32';,
~~
11 ';,
••.
••
4 Crotch depth No reduct1on
5 No reduct1on
0 1 21 s;. 21 'Ia 22 'Ia 22 3; 8
Wa1st to knee 21 ' 1' 37 % 38';,
6 No reduction 37 ,1a 38'1a
Wa1st to ankle
7 97
36' 18• 6% 7 7 'Ia 7'1.
Ankle 6' 13 'I• 13 '/. 14 'I• 14 3;,

••
8 Knee .97 12 '" 2,/" 2 3/s 2 ,h 23;.
9 Front crotch " .97 2
10 X .97 2~ 3 3 '1• 3% 3';,
Back crotch 1

11
1 1 '1a 1 '1s 1 1• 1';,
Crotch angle ' 97

•
12 Nape to wa<st No reduct1on 14'•• 15 '1• 15 '/. 16 '1• 16 3;,
3
2' '• 2'1• 2 3la 2 1s 2 1;,

••
13 Bacl< neck No reduction
14 Back neck nse X .97 , 1, '/. 'I• '!. 7/o

15 Shoulder length No reduction 4'18 5 5 '1• 5% 5'1.

16 Across bac• X 97 7'1• 7 '1a 7 '/. 8 8'/•
21 112

••
17 Sleeve length No reduct1on 21 '1• 21 ';. 22 22 '1•
18 Shouloer p<tch .97 1 '1• 1% 1% 1% 1 'h
19 Steep .97 10 10 31· 11'12 12'1• 13
20 Wnst 97 5% 6 '1• 7 7'/. 8 ';,
21
22
23
Nee'
Bust span
Bust evel
X .97
X .97
No reduction
13%
6%
9
13 %
6%
9%
13 'Ia
6~
9%
14
7~
9 7ls
14 '/•

10
7'1. ••
PETITE SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS
F1ve percent smaller <n crosswise direct1on w1thout any reductions in lengthwise direction.
•
•
•
Use these measurements when draft1ng slopers for fabrics that s tretch from 75% to 100%.
Mu1t1ply your across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment •
Will ha~'" tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching. •
Multiply by Extra Small

••
Small Medium Large Extra Large
2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust X .95
Wa1st 30 31 71e 33%

••
2 36% 39%
X .95 22 %
3 H1p 24'1• 26'1• 29 31 7/e
X .95 32'1.
4 Crotch depth 34 % 36% 39 % 42 '1•
No reduction 10 '1e
5 Wa1st to knee 10 % 10 % 10 71e 11 '/•

••
No reduction 21 %
6 Wa1st to ankle 21% 21 71e 22%
No reduction 36 % 22'1•
7 Ankle 37'1• 37 %
X .95 38 '1• 38 5/a
8 Knee 6'1• 6'12 6%
X .95 12'12 7 7'1•

••
9 Front crotch 13 13 112
10 Back crotch X .95 2 14 14 3/7
X .95 2 '1• 2~ 2'12 2 5/e
11 Crotch angle 2% 2 7la
12 Nape to waist X .95 1
3 3% 3'h
1

•
13 Back neck No reduction 1 '1e 1 '1• 1%
14 % 15 ~ 3
14 Back neck rise No reduction 15 1· 16 '1• 16 3/•
2'1· 2%
15 Shoulder length X .95 2% 2% 2'h
% %
16 Across back No reduction
4 71a 5
'I• 'I• 'I•
17 Sleeve length X .95 5'1a 5% s'ls
18 7'1· 7'/,
Shoulder pitch No reduction
21'1•
7% 8 8'1•
19 Bicep X .95 21'12 21%
20 Wrist X .95 1 '1• 1% 22 22'1•
9 71e 1% 1% 1'/2
21 Neck X .95 10 %
5'12 11 % 12 12 3/•
22 Bust span X .95 6 '1a 7
23 Bust level 13 6 1a 7% a%
X .95 13'1.
6'1• 13'12 13 31. 14
No reduction 6'12
9 6 31. 7 7'1\
9'1e 9% 9% 9'.4
 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS CHAPTER 4 85

PETITE RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller in crosswise d ' . .
Use these measurements when d ~~~Ctlon Wi thout any reductions in lengthwise direct1on.
Multiply your across measureme ~a ~ng slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% and over.
ment will have twill tape to stabili~esthy 0 ·9 0. 10% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final gar-
e seam and prevent it from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Large Extra Large
Medium
2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust
X .90 28 % 37 'Ia
2 Waist 30 '1• 32 34 %
X .90 21 'le 23 24 % 27 •;, 30 '1e
3 Hip
X .90 31 32 7le 37 % 40
4 Crotch depth 34 %
No reduction 10 '1e 10 31e 10% 10 71e 11 •;.
5 Waist to knee No reduction
6 Waist to ankle 21 % 21% 21 7le 22 '1• 22 '1•
No reduction 36% 37 '1• 37% 38 'le 38 %
7 Ankle X .90
8 Knee 6 6 '1· 6% 6% 6 7lo
X .90 11 71e
g Front c rotch 12 % 12 31• 13 '1• 13 %
X .90 2 2 2% 2 •;,
10 Back crotch 2 '1•
X .90 2% 2'1. 2 7le 3 'le 3%
11 Crotch angle X .90
12 1 1 1 1 'le 1 1/a
Nape to waist No reduction
13 Back neck 14 31· 15 'I• 15 31• 16 '1• 16 31·
No reduction 2 '1• 2 3le 2% 2% 2 'h
14 Back neck ri se X .90 >;. >;.
15 'I• 'I• 'Ia
Shoulder length No reduction 4 71a 5 5 'le 5% 5%
16 Across bac k X _go 7 '1• 7 'h 7'1. 8 8 '1•
17 Sleeve length No reduction 21 'I• 21 •;, 21 % 22 22 '1•
18 Shoulder pitch X .90 1 'I• 1 'I• 1 'I• 1% 1%
19 Bicep X .90 9% 10 10'/. 11 % 12
20 Wrist X .90 5 '1• 5 71e 6 112 7 '1• 7 '1•
21 Neck X .90 12 % 12 % 12 71e 13 13 '1•
22 Bust span X .90 6 6 '1• 6% 6 31· 7
23 Bust level No reduction 8 •;, 8% 8 7le 9 '1e 9%

PETITE FOUR-WAY- STRETCH KN IT REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions.
Multiply your across measurements by 0.90, 10% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final gar-
ment will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large
2 6 10 14 18

1 Bust X .90 28 % 29 '1• 30 'Ia 31 32

2 Waist X .90 21 11a 22 23 23 71a 24 3 '
3 Hip X _go 31 32 32 7la 33 3/ • 34 's
4 X .90 9% 9 31· 9 7la 10 10
Crotch depth
X .90 20 '1• 20 % 20 '12 20 51s 20 J·
5 Waist to knee 3
X .90 34 % 35 35 'I• 35 112 35 •
6 Waist to ankle 6 1-'4 s ~~
X .90 6 6 6'1•
7 Ankle 12 12 % 1 2 11~ 3
X .90 11 7/a 12 •
8 Knee 2 2 2 '/a 2's
X .90 2
9 Front c rotch 3 3 3 ' ·s 3 '.
X _go 2 7/a
10 Back c rotch
1 1 'Ia 1 1/a 1 1.8 1'•
11 Crotch angle X .90
14 14 '/• 14 '1> 14 3 /, 15
12 Nape to waist X .90
2 '1• 2% 2% 2 ':• 2'•
13 Back neck No reduction
% 'I• 'I• 'I• J'
14 Back nec k rise No reduction
No reduction 4 'Ia 5 5 5 5'•
15 Shoulder length 7 '1• 7% 7'12 7.,. 7' '
No reduction
16 Across back 21 'I• 21 % 21 112 21 5 :a 3
21 "
17 No reduction 1 J/8
Sleeve length 1% 1% 1'1• 1%
No reduction 10 1Q•,.
18 Shoulder pitc h
X .90 9% 9·1· 10%
19 Bicep 5 'I• 5 '12 5 '1• 6 ''• 6 ':!
X _gO
20 Wri st 13 '/. 13 '1• 14 14 1/a 14 11•
No reduction 6 6 '11 6 '1•
21 Neck 6 6 '1•
22 Bust span
X .90
X .90 9 9 9 '/o 9 '14 s•.-.
23 Bust level
~t\ l'HAt'l tR 4 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS
••
Misses Tall Reductions •• Ml
MISSES TALL STABLE KNIT REDUCTIONS .
h t any reduct1ons m leng
thwise d 1rection.
Zero percent smaller 1n crossw1se directiOn Wit ~u r fabrics that stretch from 0% to
Use these measurements when draft1ng slopers ~mailer. except for the shoulder measure
25o/c0 · ment because the final
'
••
--.....

9arll1ent
Multiply your across measurements by 0.9 5· %
5
Will have tw111 tape to stabiliZe the seam and preven
tit from stretching.
11
Medium Large Extra La
~
••
.•
Multiply by Extra Small s:a 10 14

2 34 ''> 36'/2 39'/2 ~ •

1 Bust
X .95 ~~ > 26' '> 28'/2 31 '/2 34 ';, 3
X .95 35 '. 37'/2 39'/2 42'12 45 ';, 4
2 Wa1st
3 H1p .95 11 r, 11 '12 11 31• 12 12'1•
4
5
6
Crotch depth
Wa1st to knee
Wa1st to ankle
No reduct1on
No reduct1on
No reduct1on
~~
4
~ ;:
24 ''•
41 %
8 'Is
25'1•
41 'Is
8%
25% 3/
42 '"
8%
25'1.
••
42 7; 8
8 7/a

••
7 Ankle 95 13 ''• 14 'Is 14 % 15 'I• 15%
8 Knee
.95 2 ''• 2% 2'12 2%
7
2 3/o 11
9 Front crotch 95 3 3 1ls 3 11• 3'12 3 /, 1'
95 1
10 Back crotch 1 'i• 1 'I• 1 'I• 1% 1 'Ia
11
12
13
14
Crotch angle
Nape to wa1st
Back neck
Back neck nse
... 95
No reduction
No reduct1on
.95
16 ''•
2 '1s

4'18
'I•
17 %
2 112

5
'Is
17 7ls
2'12
%
5'1s
18%
2%

5%
'Is
2%

5%
7
18 /a
7
/a
•
••
1
1
1
1
15 Shoulder length No reduction 7
7'12 7% 8 'Is 8 '12 8 /a

••
16 Across back 95
No reduct1on 24% 24% 24 7ls 25 'Is 25%
17 Sleeve length
1'12 1% 1% 1% 1'I•
18 Shoulder p1tch X .95
X .95 10 % 11 % 12 1ls 12 '1s 13%
19 B1cep
20
21
22
Wnst
Neck
Bust span
)( .95
X .95
X .95
14 %
5 118

6 31·
10 31·
6%
15

11
7
7%
15 '1s
7 '1•
11 '1•
8'1s
15 %
7%
11 '12
8'/a
15%
8
11 '/.
••
••
23 Bust level No reduction

MISSES TALL MODERATE KNIT REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller m crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that s tretc h from 25% to 50%.
Mult1ply your across measurements by 0.98, 2% smaller, except for the shou lder measurement, because the final garment
••
Will have tw111 tape to stabi11ze the seam and prevent it from stretching.

Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large ••

••
2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust X .98 31 7ls 41 s;.
2 Waist
33 '/. 35 '/. 38 31·
X .98 24 26 28 30 7la 33 '/•

••
3 Hip X .98
4 Crotch depth 34 31· 36'/. 38'/. 41% 44 %
5 Waist to knee
No reduction 11 'I• 11 '12 11 '/. 12 12 '/•
No reduction 24 % 24 'Is 25%
6 Waist to ankle 25 '1• 25 %

••
No reduction 40 71s 41% 42 7/e
7 Ankle
X .98
41 '1s 42 %
8 Knee 7'/. 8 8'!. 8'12 8 3/ •
X .98 13 % 15 3/e
9 Front crotch
X .98
13'1• 14% 14 7la
10 Back crotch 2'1• 2'1· 2 3/•

••
X .98 2% 2%
11 Crotch angle 2 71s 3 3'1• 3 12 1 3'/•
12 Nape to waist
X .98 1
No reduction
1 'Ia 1'!. 1 'I• 1%
13 Back neck 16 71s 17 % 17 718 18% 18 7/e
No reduction

••
14 Back neck rise 2'12 2'12 2'12 2%
X .98 2%
15
16
Shoulder length
Across back No reduction 'I• 'I• 'I• 7
la 'I•
X .98 4 '1• 5 5'1s s%
17 Sleeve length 7 112 5%
18 Shoulder pitch No reduction 7'1. 8 '1a 1
8 12 8'.4
24% 24% 25'.4
19 Bicep X .98
1 '12
24 71a 25'1s
20 Wrist X .98 1'12 1% 1% 15.4
10% 11 'Ia
21 Neck X .98
5 31. 11% 12% 13 31t
22 Bustspan X.98 6'12 7'1• 8 8 3/•
X.98 14% 14%
23 Bust level
6'1. 14 71a 15 118 153.4
No reduction
10'1.
6 31· 7 7 318 1~
10 31. ,, tA
11 11 v.
 SLOPERS AND REDUC TI ONS C HAPTER 4 87

MISSES TALL STRETCHY KN IT REDUCTIONS

Three percent smaller in crosswise d' . .
Use these measurements when d lrectlon Without any reductions 1n lengthwise direction.
Multiply your across meas raftmg slopers for fabrics that stretch from 50% to 75%
- h . urements by 0 97 3 o/c ·
WI11 ave tw111 tape to stabilize th · • o smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
e seam and prevent it from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large
2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust
2 Waist
X .97 31 '12 33 '12 35% 38% 41 'I•
3 Hip
X .97 23 '1. 25 31· 27 % 30 '12 33'12
4 X .97 34 % 36% 38% 41'1• 44 '1•
Crotch depth No reduction
5 Waist to knee 11 '1· 11 112 11 '!. 12 12 '1•
No reduction 24% 24 71• 25 '1• 25 % 25%
6 Waist to ankle No reduction
7 Ankle 40 71e 41 % 41 'Ia 42 % 42 718
X .97 7% 7 71e 8 '1• 8% 8%
8 Knee X .97
9 Front crotch 13 '14 13 % 14 'Ia 14 % 15 1le
X .97 2 '1• 2 114 2% 2% 2 314
10 Back crotch X .97
11 2 71e 3 3'14 3% 3%
Crotch angle X .97
12 1 1 '1• 1 '14 1 '14 1%
Nape to waist No reduction 16 71e 17 % 17 7le 18 % 18 7le
13 Back neck No reduction
14
2 '12 2 112 2 112 2% 2%
Back neck rise X .97 'I• 'Ia 'Ia 'Ia 'Ia
15 Shoulder length No reduction 4 '1• 5 5% 5%
5 '1•
16 Across back X .97 7 112 7 314 8'1• 8'12 8 71•
17 Sleeve length No reduction 24% 24% 24 71• 25'1• 25 %
18 Shoulder pitch X .97 1 '12 1 112 1% 1% 1%
19 Bicep X .97 10 '/. 11 11 314 12'12 13 114
20 Wrist X .97 5 314 6% 7'1• 7 71• 8%
21 Neck X .97 14 114 14 '12 14'/. 15 15 '/.
22 Bust span X .97 6 '12 6 314 7 7% 7 314
23 Bust level No reduction 10 % 10 % 10 71e 11 11 %

MISSES TALL SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS

Five percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%.
Multi ply you r across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large
2 6 10 14 18

1 Bust X .95 30'1• 32 31· 34 % 37 112 40 %

X .95 23'1• 25 '1• 27 30 32 314
2 Waist
3 Hip X .95 33 31• 35 % 37 '12 40 % 43'1•
No reduction 11 11• 11 112 11 31· 12 12 '1•
4 Crotch depth 24 7le 25'1• 25% 25%
No reduction 24 %
5 Waist to knee 41% 41 7le 42 % 42 71•
No reduction 40 '1a
6 Waist to ankl e 7 314 8 8 '1· 8%
X .95 7 '12
7 An kle
13 13 % 13 71e 14% 14 7le
8 Knee X .95
X .95 2 '1• 2 114 2% 2 '12 2%
9 Front crot ch 2 31· 3 3'1• 3% 3%
10 Back cro tch X .95
X .95 1 1 'I• 1 'Ia 1'1• 1%
11 C rotch angle 16 71e 17% 17 71• 18 % 18 7le
Nape to waist No reduction
12 2 '12 2'12 2 '12 2% 2%
No reduction
13 Back neck 'I• 'I• 'I• 'Ia 'Ia
Back neck rise
X .95
14 4 71• 5 5'1• 5% 5%
No reduction
15 Shoulder length 7'12 7 314 8 '1• 8 '12 8 7lo
X .95
16 Across back 24 % 24% 24 71• 25'1• 25%
No reduction
17 Sleeve length 1 '12 1 112 1 '12 1% 1%
X .95 10% 11 'h 12'1• 13
18 Shoulder pitch 10
X .95 6 '1• 7 7 •1· 8%
19 Bicep X .95 5%
20 Wrist 14 14'1• 14 % 14% 14'/a
X ,g5 e'la
21 Neck 6% 6% 7 '/a 7 '1.
X ,g5
22 Bust span 10 1la 10% 10 % 10 7/a 11 'Ia
No reduction
23 Bust level
ss CHAPTER 4 SLOPERS A ND REDU C TIONS

---
,.
,
~
MISSES TALL RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS . directiOn .
reductions "' lengthwise
~ Jilt
Ten percent smaller 1n crossw1se direction Wllho~t a~ybncs that stretch 100% and over. m en! because the f II
Use these measurements when draft1ng slopers or a
11
except for the shoulder m easure ' 1na1 Qar. ll
1

Multtply your across measurements b\ 0.90. 10% sm~e~~· 11 from stretching. -

ment wtll have ""II tape to stabtli=e the seam and pre Medium Large Extra l~ 11
1

E x t ra small Sma 11 - ~rge

Multiply by
1 o 14
18 ~ 11
1

6
-----~===-------------~~--------~
2

1 Bust
' .90 29 ~------;;~------~
•,, ~; •; 325%
2~~ 8
35'/~
- 28 1/o
31 ' •'
2 Watst ' .90 22 33 "I• 35 'h 38 '1.• 41 •
3 H1p '.90 32 11 'h 11 3/.1 12 12 ';, •
4
5
Crotch oepth
Wa1st to ~nee
~~ ;:~~~::~~ ;~ :::
4
~~ ~ ~~ ;~: ~~ ~: ~~~: It
6 Wa,st to ankle No reductton 0 ·a 7 'Ia 7 'h 7 'I• 8 •
' 90 7 13 1/a
7 Ankle 12 ';, 123'I•4 132 %
31 14 •
8 Knee ' 90 2 2 '/a 2'/• 16 2';, •
9 F'o~t crotch 90 2';• 2 '/s 3 3'/• 3'1. .
10 Back crotch '· 90 1 1 '/a 1 '/., 1';. •
,, C•ot~r angle .90
1
17 3'a 17 7/a 18% 18 7/ 8 •
16'~ " 2 5Ia 2% •
'2 NaP<" to wa:st No reductton ,
2 12 2 'l2 2 '12

•••
7
13 Ba:• ~eel< No reduction 7 Ia 'Ia 'Ia /s 'Ia
'4
'5
Sac .... neck nse
Shoulde' .englh No r:d~~tton 4 'Ia 5 5 'Is 5 Y• 5%
90 7 '12 7'1. 8 '1s 8 12 8 7/o
'6 Ac•oss bac~ '· 24 7ls 25%
17 S e9'~e length No reductton 24 3," 8 24% 25'1a
'I
v .90 1% 1 'Ia 1 '12 1 2 1'h
18
19
20
21
Shoulder p.tcn
B1cep
Wnst
Ne.:r.
X .90
".90
X .90
9%
5'1•
13 '1•
10 '1•
6
13 %
11
6%
13 %
11 %
7%
7
13 1a
12 '/•
8
14
••
22
23
Bust span
Bust ie,el
X .90
No reduction
6
9%
6%
9 7/s
6'12
10
6%
10 '1•
7 '/a
10 '12
••
MISSES TALL FOUR-WAY-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS ••
Ten percent smaller tn crossw1se dtreclton and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafttng slo pers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions.
Multiply your measurements by 0.90, 10% smaller, in both directions. ••
1 Bust
Multiply by Extra Small
2
Small

6
Medium

10
Large

14
Extra Lar!_

18 ••
2
3
4
5
Watst
Hip
Crotch depth
Watst to knee
" .90
X .90
y .90
" .90
X .90
29 '1•
22
32
10 31·
30 '1s
23
32 71a
10 31,
31
23 71s
33 %
11
32
24 %
34 %
11
32 7/e
25%
35'12
11 '/&
• •
23 % 23 7/a
6
7
Watst to ankle
Ankle X .90 38 7/a
23 '12
39
23% 23 % I
X .90 39'1• 39'12 39'/•
8 Knee
X .90
7 7 'I• 7% 7% 7'/2 I
9 Front crotch 12'1, 12 112 12 % 13 '/s
13
10 Back crotch X .90
X .90
2 2 2'1s 2 1l s 22/s I
11 Crotch angle 3
12 X .90 3 3 11s 3 'I• 3% I
Nape to waist 1 'Ia
X .90 1 'Ia 1 '/•
13 Back neck 16 1 '1a 1 'I•
14 Back neck rise No reduction
2'12
16'1 · 16 121
16 % 17 I
15 Shoulder length No reduction 2'12 2'12 2'12 2'h
16 Across back No reduction
4%
'Ia 'Ia 7
1a 7
1s 'I• I
17 No reduction 5 5'Is
18
Sleeve length
Shoulder pitch No reduction 7'12 7%
5 5
8'/a
I
24 31e 731· 8
19
20
Btcep
Wrist
No reduction
X .90 1'/,
24'12
1 '12
24% 24 31· 24 7/a I
9% 1% 1%
16/s
21 Neck X .90 10
22 Bust span No reduction 5'1. 10'1· 10% 11
5% 6 6~..
23 Bust level X .90 14% 6'1•
6 14 31. 15 15\4
X .90 6'1a 15
10'1•
10'1•
6'1• 6% e'.4
-~
10% 10'..1!
 SLOPERS A ND REDUCTIONS CHAPTER 4 89

Women's Size Reductions

WOMEN 'S STABLE KNIT REDUCTIONS
Zero percent smaller in crosswi . . . -
Use these measurements whe s~ d;rectlon W1t11out any reductions 1n 1engthw1se direction.
Multiply your across measu n ra hng slopers for fabrics that stretch from 0% to 25%.
will have twill tape to stabili;:r;;,ents by 1• 0% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the f1nal garment
e seam and prevent 11 from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra L arge
2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust
2 Waist
xo 43 47 51 55 59
3 Hip
xo 35 39 43 47 51
4 Crotch depth
xo 46 50 54 58 62
No reduction 11 3/. 15 3/. 19% 23 >;. 27 "/•
5 Waist to knee No reduction
6 Waist to ankle 24 24 1/• 24 '/, 24 3/. 25
No reduction 38% 38 7/e 39 '/e 39 '/e 39 ''•
7 Ankle xo
8 10 10 1h 11 11 'h 12
9
Knee xo 18 1/a 18 % 18 % 18 7/e 19 '/e
10
Front crotch xo 2 7/a 3% 3 7/e 4% 4 71•
11
Back crotch xo 3 7/a 4 1/e 4'h 4 7/a 5 1/a
12
Crotc h angle xo 1 1h 1% 1% 2 2%
Nape to waist No reduction 16 % 17 1/a 17 % 18 1/a 18 %
13 Back neck No reduction 3 3 '/, 4 4 'h 5
14 Back neck rise xo 1 1% 1 317 1 1h 1 ';,
15 Shoulder length No reduction 5% 5% 5 7/e 6 6 '/a
16 Across back xo 8% 8 7/a 9 9% 9 ''•
17 Sleeve length No reduction 23 7/a 24 '/a 24 % 24 % 24 7/e
18 Shoulder pitch xo 1 112 1% 2 2 '1• 2 '.
19 Bic ep xo 14 '12 15 1/• 16 16 3/. 17'r,
20 Wrist xo 7 1/e 7 7/a 8% 9% 10 1 1&
21 Neck xo 17 '/• 18 18% 19 112 20 ' '
22 Bust span xo 8 8'/• 8 '12 8% 9
23 Bust level No reduction 12 1/• 12 3/• 13 '!. 13 '/. 1,j' '

WOMEN'S MODERATE KNIT REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurement s when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%.
Multiply your across measurements by 0.98, 2 % smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large
2 6 10 14 18

1 Bust X .98 42 1/a 46 50 53 7/e 57's

2 Waist X .98 34 '1• 38 '/• 42 1/e 46 50
3 Hip X .98 45 49 53 56' s 60 3 '
3
4 Crotch depth No reduction 11 3/• 15% 19 3/• 23 3/• 27 '
3
5 Waist to knee No reduction 24 24 '/• 24'12 24 3 •• 25
6 Waist to ankle No reduction 38% 38 7/e 39'/a 39 ·8 39 ••
Ankle X .98 9% 10 1/4 10 '/. 11 '·.. 11 3 •
7
8 Knee X .98 17 3/. 18 18 1/• 18 1 c 18 3 '
2 7/a 3 '/, 3 3/• 4 ,,,. 4 3·
9 Front crotch X .98 .,. J,,.
X .98 3% 4 4% 5
10 Bac k crotc h
X .98 1% 1 '/• 1% 2 2''
11 Crotch angle
No reduc tion 16% 17 1/a 17% 18 • 18 5 s
12 Nape to waist 3 1h 4 4',
No reduc tion 3 5
13 Bac k nec k 1% 1% 1' z
X .98 1 1 ~
14 Back neck rise 5 7/e s·.
No reduction 5% 5 31· 6
15 Shoulder length 8 7/a 9 93 s 9'e
X .98 8%
16 Across back 23 7/e 24 1/a 24 % 24 ' . 24 ••
No reduction
17 Sleeve length 1 1h 1 3;, 2 2'• 2'
Shoulder pitch X .98
18 X .98 14 1/ • 15 15% 16 3 • 17'•
19 Bicep 7 7% 8 11> 914 10
X .98
20 Wrist 16 7/o 17 % 18% 19 19 3 .14
X .98
21 Nec k
Bust span
X .98 7 7/o 8 8'!. a•·· 8'a
22 12 12 % 13 13''• 14
23 Bust level
-- No reduction
 !>) ' HAPTI R 4 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS
...
I

WOMEN 'S STRETCHY KN IT REDUCTIONS -

••
••
reductoons on lengthwose dorec~~on.
eor>< rc : 5·n~loer on cross" ose dorectoon wothout any s that stretch from 50% to 75 o. t because the fonal a
U~e these measure.,.,ents "hen draftong slopers for fabnc t tor the shoulder measuremen · 9 rrnent
M b - "% smaller excep
ultopl) vour across measurement s >0 ·9 '·" t t ~m stretchonQ

..
-

•
1
\\Ill have tWill :ape :o staboloze tne seam and prevent r - -- Mediu m La rge Ext ra Larg
Multiply by Extra S ll
ma Small- - - 14 ~
18
10
57;---- ~
2 6

1 Bust
---------
9# X -11 -15 '
49 '
41''•
53 rs
45''• 49';,
2 Waost )( .97 3-l ~~ 1 • 52 'Ia 56 •;, 60 •;,
3
4
H•p
Grote!"> depth
..... 97
No reductoon i~;: 15 •
241.
19 '··
241}
~~:I: ~;'1•
5
6
7
8
Waost to kr>ee
Wa•st to ar ·le
Anke
Knee
No reouctoon
No reduct•on
97
97
97
24
38
9' •
'•
17'•
38 '•
10''•
17 tB
3 ;,
39'1•
10 %
18
3'·•
39"·•
11 '/•
18 "4
4'/•
39%
11 %
18 1/,
4 ';.
••
9 Front crotch 2' • 4 4% 4 ';, 5
10 Back crot t> 97
3
1 18. 1'/ • 1% 2 2';,
11 CrotM)ange .97
12 Nape to wast No reductoon 16 % 17 "•
" 17 % 18 'Is
1
18 %
'3 Back 'leek 1\Jo reductoon 3 3'A 4 4 12 5
14 Back 'leek nse .97 1 1% 1% 1 1/2 1 1/,
'5 5h0u der engtl' No reduction 5% 5% 5 7/s 6 6 '/s
16 Ac OSS baCK .97 8% 8 7/s 9 9% 9%
•7 Seeve eng:h No reductoon 23 'Is 24 'Is 24 % 24% 24 7/s
'8 ShOt. :Jer p •cr .91 1 '12 1% 2 2'/• 2';,
t9 B:cep ~ .97 14 14 % 15'12 16 '/• 17
20 Wrst ~ .97 7 7% 8% 9 9 7/s
21 Neck 97 16 % 17 % 18 1/a 18 7/a 19 %
22 au:• span 97 7% 8 8 '/• 8'/2 8 3/.
23 Bustleve No reductoon 11 7/a 12'/• 12 3/ • 13 •; , 13 %

WOMEN 'S SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS

Fov< P' rosswtse dtrectton without any reductions in lengthw ise direc tion .
•
Usethtlse "leas.;•emer.ts when drafttng slopers for fabrics that stretc h from 75% to 100%.
Multoply your across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except to r th e shoulder meas ureme nt, because the final garment
"'" ha~e twtll tape to stab~ze the seam and prevent tl from stretc hing.
M ult tply by ------~~-----------------------------
Extra Sm a ll Sma ll Medium Large Extra Large
2 6 10
1 Bust 14 18
:> Waost
95 40 7/a 44 %
.95 48 1/2 52 '!. 56
3 Hop 33 '/• 37 40 7/a
.95 43 3/. 44 % 48 '12
4 Crotch depth
No reductton
47 '12 51 '/• 55 58 7/a
5 Watst to knee 11% 15%
No reductton 19 % 23 % 27 3/•
6 Watst to ankle 24 24 '1·
No reductton 24 '12 24 % 25
7 Ankle 38 % 38 7/a
8 Knee / .95 39 1/a 39 % 39%
9 '12 10
9 Front crotch X .95 10 '12 11 11 %
17 '/• 17'12
10 Back crotch X .95 2 3/, 17 % 18 18 '/a
11 Crotch angle X .95 3 '/• 3% 4 1/a
3% 4 4%
12 Nape to watst X .95 4 '1•
1% 4% 5
13 Back neck No reduction 1 '!. 1%
14 16% 17 1/a 1 7/e 2 '/•
Back neck nse No reduction 17 %
15 3 3 '12 18 1/e 18%
Shoulder length X .95 4
16 No reduction
1
1% 4 1/2 5
Across back 1%
17 Sleeve length X .95 5% 5% 1 '12 1'h
18 8% 5 7/a 6 6 1/a
Shoulder pitch No reduction 8 7/a 9
19 Bocep X .95 23'1. 24 1/a 9% 9%
20 Wrist 1';, 24 % 24 % 24 7/•
X .95 1%
21 Neck X .95 13 3; . 2 2'/e 2%
22 6 3;. 14'12 15'; ,
Bust span X .95 16 16%
23 16% 7 '12 a•;,
Bust level X .95 9 9%
17 17 3; ,
No reduction 7%
11 % 7 7/e 18'12 19 1/e
8
12 8% 8 '/r
12'12 13 13'/r
 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS CHAPTER 4 91

WOMEN 'S RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller in crosswise d. . .
Use these measurements when d 1 ~Gtlon Without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Multiply your across measureme ~a lng slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% and over.
ment will have twill tape to stab/ s ~Y 0.90, 10% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final gar-
1 IZe I e seam and prevent it from stretching.

Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large

2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust
X .90
2 Waist 38% 42'/• 45 'Ia 49'12 53'/a
X .90 31 '12 45 7/a
3 Hip 35'/a 38 3/ • 42 '/•
X .90 41 % 45 48% 52'/• ss >;,
4 Crotch depth No reduction
5 Waist to knee 11 % 15 31· 19 3/• 23 3/• 27 3/•
No reduction 24 24 '/• 24 112 24 3/· 25
6 Waist to ankle No reduction
7 Ankle 38% 38'1a 39'/• 39% 39 %
X .90 9 9 '/z 10 10 % 10 3/•
8 Knee X .90
9 Front crotch
16% 16 '12 16 3/• 17 17'/•
X .90 2% 3 3 112 4 4%
10 Back crotch X .90 3 '12 3% 4 4% 4%
11 Crotch angle X .90 1 '/• 1 1/a 1 112 1 3/• 2
12 Nape to waist No reduction 16 % 17 1/a 17% 18 1/a 18%
13 Back neck No reduction 3 4 4 •;, 5
3'12
14 Back neck rise X .90 1 1% 1% 1 112 1 112
15 Shoulder length No reduction 5% 5>;, 5 7/a 6 6'1•
16 Across back X .90 8% 8 7/a 9 9% 9%
17 Sleeve length No reduction 23 7/a 24 1/a 24 % 24 % 24 7/a
18 Shoulder pitch X .90 1% 1% 1 7/a 2 2'/•
19 Bicep X .90 13 13% 14 % 15 15 3/•
20 Wrist X .90 6% 7 7% 8 '12 9 1/a
I 21 Neck X .90 15 112 16 1/a 16 7/a 17 112 18'/a
22 Bust span X .90 7'/. 7% 7% 7 7/a 8
I 23 Bust level No reduction 11 11 % 11 7/a 12 % 12 3/•
I
I WOMEN'S FOUR-WAY-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS
I

•
Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction .
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions.
Multiply your measurements by 0 .90, 10% smaller, in both directions.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large
2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust X .90 38>;, 40'12 42 '1• 44 1/a 45 7/a
2 Waist X .90 31 1/2 33'/• 35'1• 36'1a 38%
3 Hip X .90 41 % 43'1• 45 46 % 48 %
4 Crotch depth X .90 11 1/e 13 15 16 7/a 18 3/4
5 Waist to knee X .90 22 3/• 23 23 23 1/a 23'1•
X .90 36% 36 7/a 37 37 37 1/a
6 Waist to ankle
X .90 9 9 '1• 9'12 9% 10
7 Ankle
16% 16'12 16 % 16%
8 X .90 16%
Knee 2 7/a 3 3 1/4 3 '12
X .90 2%
9 Front crotch 4 4 1/a 4% 4 '/z
X .90 3 '1a
10 Back crotch 1 '12 1 117 1% 1 '/z 1%
11 Crotch angle X .90
X .90 15% 16 16 '/. 16 1/z 16 %
12 Nape to waist 3 3 1/4 3 1/z 3% 4
No reduction
~
13 Back neck 1 1% 1% 1% 1%
14 Back neck rise No reduction 5 >;,
5% 5% 5 7/a 5 7/a
~ 15 No reduction
Shoulder length 8% 8 3/• 8 7/a 9 9
16 No reduction
Across back 23 'Ia 24 24 1/a 24 '/• 24%

~
No reduction
17 Sleeve length
No reduction 1'/z 1% 1 'I• 2 2
18 Shoulder pitch 13 13% 13 3/• 14 14%
x.90
19 Bicep 6% 6 3/• 7 7 '/o 7 '1•
X .90 1
20 Wrist
No reduction 17 '/• 17 /a 18 18% 183/•
21 Neck 7'1• 7% 7'/o 7'/a 7'A
X .90 11 7/o 1~
22 Bust span
X .90 11% 12t/o 12'h
23 Bust level
 !l~ l'liAI'Tl.R 4 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS

Plus Size Reductions ~:

•
~P~L~U~S~S~T~A~B~L~E~K~N~JT~R~E~D~U~C~T~JO~N~S~t:;~~Ztk·~~-~~e~n~g~th~w~is~e~d~ir~e~ct~io~n~.------------
~ . · · without any reductions 'n o% to 25%.
II
II
Zero percent smaller in crossw1se direction f r fabrics that stretch from
~U~s~e~th~e~s~e;m~e~a~su~r;em;;en~t~s~w~h~e~n~d~ra~ft~in~g~s~lo~~~e~rs~th~~~u~t~an~y~r~e~d~uc~t=io=n=s~-~========~========~4
~se your measurements exactly as recorde WI
2
x 3X ~X~=== II
Multiply by
1
X
20
24 28 ~ II
-=====================~;;======--~~1~6------~~------~;-------~~----
- 49 53 ~ 57~ .
1 Bust
X O 41 ~i 41 45 49 •
2 Waist X 0 33 48 52 56 6Q
3 Hip X 0 ~~% 15% 19 % 23 % 27 'l 11
4 Crotch depth No reduction
24 24 'I• 24 '12 24 % 2S ' II
5 Waist to knee No reduction 39 'Is 40 'Is 40% 40't,
6 Wa1st to ankle No reduct1on 39 % 10 " 8 10 % 11 '1• 11 ,1• 11
9% ' 5 18 7le
7 Ankle X 0 18 '1• 18% 18 3Is ' 19 't,
8 Knee x o 2 31• 3"•,. 3 31· 44 51e
14 4'/, .
9 Front crotch x 0 3% 4 4 Is 5 II
10 Back crotch X 0 1 1'1• 1% 23 2'/,
11 Crotch angle X 0 17 15 % 16 'I• 16 I· 11';, •
12 Nape to waist No reduction
2 '/. 3% 3% 4 'I• 4,1, •
13 Back neck No reduction
1 1% 1% 1% 1';,
14
15
16
17
Back neck rise
Shoulder length
Across back
Sleeve length
x 0
No reduct1on
Nore~~ction
5'12
8
%
32'1•
5%
8%
32%
5%
8 'I•
32%
5'1•
9 'Is
3 2 :'•
6
9';,
33';.
••
18
19
20
Shoulder p1tch
Bicep
Wnst
~~
X
X
0
0
1 '12
13%
6%
16%
1%
14 '12
7 112
17 112
2
15 '/.
8'1•
1
18 14
16

19
2 I•

9
2'h
16';.
93;.
19'/,
•
•

••
21 Neck
22 Bust span x 0 7% 8 8 'I• 8 '12 3
8 1,
23 Bust level No reduction 11 7le 12 % 12 'Is 13 % 13'1•

PLUS MODERATE KNIT REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
•..
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%.
Multiply your across measurements by 0.98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurem ent, because the final garmerl •
will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
•
Multiply by 1X 2X 3X 4X sx
•
1
2
Bust
Wa1st
X .98
X .98
16
40 1le
20
44 '1s
24
48 52
28 32
55'/•
••
3
4
5
6
Hip
Crotch depth
Waist to knee
Waist to ankle
X .98
No reduction
No reduction
32%
43 '1e
11 %
24
36'1•
47
15 %
24 114
40'1a
51
19 %
24 112
44'/e
54 7/s
23%
48
58 3/l
27 %
25
••
••
No reduction 24 %
7 Ankle 39 % 39 71s 40 11s 40'/1
X .98 9% 40%
8 Knee 10 11 '/s
X .98 10% 11
9 Front crotch 17 % 18 183/•
X .98 18 1/ . 18 1/2
10 Back crotch 2% 3 11s 45/s
11 Crotch angle X .98 3% 3% 4 1/s ~
X .98 4 4 '1• 4% 5
12 Nape to waist 1
13 Back neck No reduction
17
1 '1. 1% 2 2"•
14 Back neck rise No reduction 15% 16 '/• 16% 17'1•
2% 3 '!. 4'/•
15 Shoulder length X .98 1 3% 4 1/•
16 Across back No reduction 1% 1% 1'h
5'12 1%
17 Sleeve length X .98 5% 6
No reduction
8% 8%
5% 5 7/s g'i•
18 Shoulder pitch 32'1s 8 7/s 9 1/s
19 Bicep X .98
1 112
32% 32 % 32 7/s
33'"
20 Wrist X .98 1 31. 2 2'/1
21 Neck X .98 13 112 14 115 2 '/•
6% 15 16'"
22 Bust span X .98 7% 15% g'ft
23 Bust level X .98 16% 8 8 7/a
17 11s 19'.4
7% 17 7/a 18 %
No reduction 7 11a .~
11 % 8 8% ~.,.
12 11s 12 % 13 1/a
 SLOPERS AND REDU C TION S CHAPTER~ 93

PLUS STRETCHY KNIT REDUCTIONS

'""•ee percent smaller rn crosswr
Use these measurements wh se drrectron wrthout any reductrons in lengthwrse drrectron.
Multrply your across meas en draftrng slopers for fabrrcs that stretch from 50% to 75%.
'"II have twill tape to stabi~;e~ents by 0.97, 3% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement. because the frnal garment
e e seam and prevent rt from stretchrng. _
Multiply by 1X 2X 3X 4X sx
16 20 24 28 32
1 Bust
2 Warst .97 39 43 '. 47' z 51 3/o 55';•
3 Hip X .97 32 35 • 39 3/.t 43 % 47 1 '?

4 X .97 42 5 • 46 '. 50 '1, 54 '13 58'1•

Crotch depth No reduction
5 11 15 • 19% 23% 27%
24 '
Wars! to knee
6 Wars! to ankle
No reductron 24 .• 24 ,,, 24 3/• 25
No reductron 39 te 40'/• 40% 40 %
7 Ankle 39 '•
8 Knee
X.97 9 to 9 ,. 10'/• 10 3/• 11 •;,
X.97 17 17 1'• 18 18 1/• 18 'h
9 Front crotch 4 •;,
".97 2 5/e 3 /8 3% 4%
10 Back c rotch X .97
11 3 'h 3 'ro 4 '/• 4 •;, 4 7/e
Crotch angle X .97
12 1 1 'r,. 1% 2 2'/•
Nape to waist
13 Back neck
No reduction 17 15 3/• 16 '/• 16 3/• 17'/•
No reduction 2 31.. 3'/• 3% 4 '/• 43/.
14 Back neck rrse X .97 1 1% 1 3/e 1 'h
1%
15 Shoulder length No reductron 5 1r2 5% 5 3/• 5'/• 6
16 Across back X .97 8% 8% 8 7/e 9'/e 9 3/e
17 Sleeve length No reduction 32 1/e 32% 32 % 32 7/e 33 1/e
18 Shoulder pitch X .97 1 '/z 1'/. 2 2'/• 2 1h
19 Bicep X .97 13% 14 14 3/• 15 1/z 16 •;,
20 Wrrst X .97 6'/, 7'/• 8 8 3/• 9 •;,
21 Neck X .97 16 1/• 17 17 '/. 18% 19 1/s
22 Bust span X .97 7'/, 7 3/4 8 8 '/• 8 •;,
23 Bust level No reduction 11 1/z 12 12 1/z 13 13 •;,

•• PLUS SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS

Five percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%.

II Multiply your across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
II 3X 4X 5X

•~
Multiply by 1X 2X
2 6 10 14 18

1 Bust X .95 39 42 % 46 112 50% 54 1/s

X .95 31% 35 'Ia 39 42'1· 46 4/s
2 Waist
~ 3 Hip X .95
No reduction
41 %
11 %
45 %
15%
49 %
19 %
53 1/•
23%
57
27 %
~ 4
5
Crotch depth
Waist to knee No reduction 24 24'/• 24 1/z 24% 25
40 %
39 % 39 7/s 40 1/s 40 %
~ 6 Waist to ankle No reduction
X .95 9 1/s 9% 10 10% 11
7 Ankle 17 112 17 3/. 18 18 1/s
17 1/•
~ 8 Knee X .95
4 4 1/z

• X .95 2% 3 3%
9 Front crotch 3 '/• 4 '/• 4% 4%
X .95 3'/z
10 Back crotch 1 1 '/• 1 112 1 7/s 2 1/s
X .95
~ 11 Crotch angle
No reduction 17 15% 16 '/• 16 % 17 '/•

•
12 Nape to waist 2 3/• 3 '/• 3% 4 '/• 4%
No reduction
13 Back neck 1 1% 1% 1% 1 '12
Back neck rise
X .95
14 5'12 5% 5% 5 '1e 6
No reduction
15 Shoulder length 8% 8% 8 7/s 9 1/s 9%
X .95 32 7/s 33 1/s
16 Across back 32 1/e 32% 32 %
No reduction
17 Sleeve length 1 '12 1% 2 2 1/e 2%
X .95 15 1/s
18 Shoulder pitch 13 13 % 14 112 16
X .95 7 7/a 8 112
19 Bicep 6% 7 1/a 9'/•
X .95 17% 18 18%
20 Wrist 16 16%
X .95 7 7/s 8 8%
21 Neck 7% 7%
X .95 12 1/• 12 3/. 13 1/e
22 Bust span 11 1/• 11 3/•
No reduction
23 Bust level
 ~4 'HAPlER 4 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS

PLUS RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS

<'" j:~P•c;,n• s"•a'ler ,.., crossw1se d~rect•on without any reduc t t
_ -----
too;;;in lengthwise direction.
tch 1oo% and over.
---
th
U5e these meas~rements "hen draft•ng slopers for fabrics tha s ~e the shoulder measurement, because e f•nal 9ar.
Mult1pl) }Our across measurements by 0.90. 10% smalle~, ~~~~;~~s~~tchlng . _
---sx- =
••
••
ment Will have tw1!1 tape to stab• ·ze the seam and preven X 4X
3
1X 2X ---::--..._
Multiply by 14 1S
10
---------~=------::;;;2~ ~
1
2 Bust
Wa•st
" 90
~ .90
r;d~~tion
36
29
39
6
40 ' '
33 ''•
43'·•
44 '1•
36 'ta
46'/•
19 %
47 '1• -
40 ' '
50%
23.'/a
44 'Ia
54
27 ';, ••.
•.
3
4 H•p No 11 ' 15 'ts 24 •;, 24 'I• 25
5 Crotch depth No reduct ton 24 24 ';, 40 'Is 40 '!. 40';,
6
Wa1st to knee
Watsttoan~le Noreductton 39 , 39 7 '•
Q'ts 9% 10 10 ';,
7 A"~ie " 90 8 '' 16 ,1, 16 '1• 17 17 ';,
Knee ' 90 16•.s 3 3% 3'1a 4';,

••
8
x.90 2'h 3 ,,a 3 716 4'1• 4 '11
~~;: ~~~:~~ ,~ ~~~
9
10 X •90 3 1 1 lj, 1 'f. 2
1' No r~d~~t,on 1~~~·

••
Crotch ailgle 17 15'1• 16 {'/.• 17 '{•
12 Nape to wats! No reduction 2 ''• 3 'I• 3 • ,,' 4 /,
13 Back neck 1% 1 'Ia 1 ,a 1 ';,
14 Sac~ neck •tse x .9 0 1, s% 5 '/. 5 71a 6
15 Shoude•length Noreductlon 85 'ta 8% 8 '1a 9 '1a 9'/a

18
19
:6 Across back
Sleeve ength
Shedder p:tc~
Beep
No r;d~~t,on
90
90
90
32 'Ia
1%
12 %
6
32 %
1%
13
6 '/.
32 %
1 'Ia
13 '/.
7%
32 'Ia
2
14 'Ia
8
33 'Ia
2 '/•
15
B'l•
•
••
Lo W•tst .90 15 15 '1• 16 % 17 'Ia 17'1.
~; ~~;span
23 Bust'"'"
.90
No reduct1on
7
10 31•
7 '1•
11 '1a
7%
11 %
7%
12
7'/a
12 ';,
••
PLUS FOUR-WAY-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS ••
•
Ten P• .e tt smaller tn crosswtse direction and 10% smaller in the le ngthw ise direction.
Use these measurements when draft1ng slopers fo r fabrics that stretc h 100% in both direc tions.
Multiply yo~r across measurements by 0.90, 10% smaller, in both directions.
Multiply by 1X 2X 3X 4X 5X ••
••
2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust X .90
2 Waist 36 71a 38'1. 40 '12 42 'I• 44 '/a
X .90 29 3/4 31 112
3 Htp 33 'I• 35 1/a 36 7!a

••
X .90 39% 41 %
4 Crotch depth 43 '1• 45 46%
X .90 11
5 Wa1st to knee 13 14 'Ia 16% 18'fs
X .90 22'1•
6 Wa1st to ankle 23 23 23 1/a 23'/•
X .90

••
7 Ankle 37 % 37 '1. 37 71a
8 Knee X .90 38 38 1/s
8% 8 7la
9 Front crotch X .90
16 %
9 '1a 9 'Ia 9%
X .90 16 % 16 '12 16% 16 3/ •
10 Back crotch 2 112 2 31·

•
11 Crotch angle X .90 3 3 'Ia 3%
3% 3 71a 4
12 Nape to waist X .90
X .90
1 1 'Ia 1 '!.
4 'Ia 4''•
13 Back neck 16 'Ia 1 112 1%
No red uction 14 '!. 15
14 Back neck rise 15 111

•
15 2% 15 '1•
Shoulder length No reduction 3 3'!.
1 1 3 '12 3''•
6 Across back No reduction 1% 1% 1 3ts
17 5 112 5%
1%
Sleeve length No reduction 5%
18 Shoulder pitch No reduction 8% 8'12 5% 5'1•
19 Steep 32'1a 8% 8% s"1s
No reduction 32'1· 32%
20 Wrist X .90 1 112 1% 32'12 32%
21 Neck 12% 1 a;, 2
X .90 12 % 2
22 Bust span No reduction 6 13 13% 13 3 ' 4
23 Bust level 16 31, 6% s a;,
X .90 7 7 3~
7 17 11a
X .90 17 '12 17 7/a 18'1•
7
11 '1. 7'1• 7'/1
11 112 11 3;.
7%
12 12'/o
 CllAPHII4 !.J 'J
SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS

Half Size Stable Knit Reductions

~ALF SIZE STABLE KNIT REDUCTIONS
-o?o f:'ercent smaller '" crosswise direc ---
Use these measurements when draft l•on Without an) "educt•ons n •engthw1se d~rectoon.
Use your measurements exactly a '"9 stopers for fabncs that stretch trom 0°o to 25%.
s recorded "•thou! any reduct•ons.
Multiply by Extra Sm all Small Medium Large Ext ra Lar ge

14 ' ' 18 11
:> 22'1, 26 '1, 30 112
1 Bust xo 41 49 53 57
2 Waost 45
0
>(
32' 36 40' 2 44' 48'·
3 Hop "0 44 48 52 56 60
4 Crotch depth No reductoon 11'. 15'. 19''• 23 .,, 27'.
5 Waist to knee No reduction 22 • 22s 11 22·, 23 .,, 1
23 '•
6 Waost to ankle No reduction 38 38''
7 Ankle ><0
37'.
9 •
37'
10'.
37".
10
,, ,,t' 11 " 1~
8 Knee ><0 17 • 17'12 1
17' ' 18 18' ·•
9 Front crotch xo 2 • 3 'lc 3 3 '4 4'' 4'•
10 Back crotch xo 3'• 4 4J'f' 4% 5
11 Crotch angle 0 1 •;, 1 3t5 2 2'1•
Nape to waost
1 '.
12 No reductoon 15' 2 16 16 ,, 17 17'12
13 Back neck No reductoon 2Jj, 3'/• 33/.t 4 •;. 4'1.
14 Back neck nse xo 1 1 118 1 '/e 1% 1 'h
15 Shoulder length No reductoon 5' 5% 53 f.& 5'!. 6
16 Across back xo 8 8% 8 /e 9'1• 9%
17 Sleeve length No reductoon 22 1t, 22 .,, 22 31• 23 23''•
18 Shoulder potch xo 1% 1% 2 2 'Is 2 11s
19 Bocep xo 13 3/, 14 '12 15 'I• 16 16''•
20 Wnst ><0 6'1. 7'12 8 '1• 9 9'···
21 Neck ·0 16 '1. 17'12 18 '1• 19 19'/..
22 Bust span xo 7 31· 8 8 '1• 8'12 8 '/o
23 Bust level No reduction 11 % 11 71s 12 % 12 71• 13%
----
-----
HALF SIZE MODERATE KNIT REDUCTIONS
Two percent smaller tn crosswose direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50% .
Multiply your across measurements by 0.98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the fi nal garment
will have twtll tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large

14 '12 18 '12 22 112 26 '12 30'12

X ,98 40 /o 44 'I• 48 52 55 7/s

1 Bust 47 '12
2 X ,98 31 71• 35 31• 39'1. 43 %
Waist 47 51 54 '/• 58%
3 Hip X ,98 43'1•
No reduction 11 /e 15 'Is 19 1ls 23 'Ia 27 '1•
4 Crotch depth 22 % 22 7/e 23 'Is 23 %
No reduction 22 %
5 Waist to knee 37 '12 37 31· 38 38 '1•
6 Waist to ankle No reduction 37 '1•
9% 10 10 % 11 11 %
7 Ankle X ,98
X ,98 17 17 '/e 17 % 17 % 17 '1•
8 Knee 2 '/. 3 'I• 3% 4 'I• 4%
9 Front crotch X .98 5
3% 4 4 '1• 4%
10 Back crotch X .98 1 '12 1 7le
1% 1 'I• 2 'I•
11 Crotch angle X .98 16 '12 17 17 '12
15 112 16
12 No reduction 4 '!.
Nape to waist 2 '/. 3 '1· 3 '/. 4 'I•
No reduction
13 Back neck 1 1% 1% 1% 1 '12
14 Back neck rise
X .98 5% 5 '!. 5 1lo 6
No reduction 5 '1>
15 Shoulder length 8% 8% 8 '1e 9 '1• 9%
16 X .98 22 'I> 22 '!. 23 23'1·
Across back 22 '1•
No reduction 1% 1 71e 2 '1• 2%
17 Sleeve length 1%
X ,98 14 '1• 15 15 % 16%
18 Shoulder pitch 13 '12
X .98 7% 8 8 71• 9'12
19 Bicep 6%
X .98 17'1• 17 7le 18% 19 %
20 Wrist 16%
X .98 7 118 8 8% 8%
21 Neck 7%
X .98 11 % 12'1• 12% 13 1 1e
22 Bust span 11 'Is
No reduc tion
23 Bust level
 HAPTER 4 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS
.,..,.
I

HALF SIZE STRETCHY KNIT REDUCTIONS . . ---......._

T .
hree percent smaller in crosswise direction w11hout any re uc
d l ions in lengthwise d~rect1on.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that~1ret~
h from 50% to 75%
1 shoulder measur~ment, because the final 9arrn ••
Multiply your across measurements by 0.97, 3% smaller, except or e
Will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretchong. . L E~
ent
•
Multiply by Extra Small
14 '12
Small
18 '12
Med1um
22 '12
arg e
26 '12
xtra Lar
~
30 ';, •
'

••
•.
43 % 47 '12 51 % 55';,
1 Bust .97
X 39 31• 43 'Is
31 'I• 35% 39 '1a 47
2 Waist .97
X 54 %
42 % 46 '12 50'12 58';,
3 Hip .97
X
23 '1•
11 'Ia 15 'Ia 19 '1• 27 ';,
4 Crotch depth No reduction 23 '1•

••
22 '1s 22 % 22 71• 23 '1.
5 Waist to knee No reduction 38
No reduction 37 '1• 37 '12 37 31• 38 ';,
6 Waist to ankle 10 '1• 10 31·
7 Ankle X .97 9 '1s 9 71a 11 ';,
16 31• 17 17 '1• 17 '12 17 3; ,

••
8 Knee X .97
2% 3 'Ia 3% 4 'Is 4'1.
9 Front crotch X .97
X .97 3 '1• 3 71a 4 'I• 4 '12 4';,
10 Back crotch 1 'Is
X .97 1% 1 'I• 1 '12 2'!•
11 Crotch angle

••
No reduction 15 '12 16 16 '12 17 17 ';,
12 Nape to waist
No reduction 2'/. 3 '1• 3'/. 4 'I• 4'!.
13 Back neck
1%
14 Back neck rise X .97 1 1% 1% 1 ';,
15 Shoulder length No reduction 5 '12 5% 5'/. 5 71• 6
16
17
18
Across back
Sleeve length
Shoulder pitch
X .97
No reduction
X .97
8%
22 '1•
1%
8%
22 '12
1%
22 %
8 '1•

1 71s
9 '1•
23
2'1a
15 •;,
9 '1.
23 '/,
2'1.
••
••
19 Bicep X .97 13 % 14 14 % 16'/.
20 Wnst X .97 6 '12 7% 8 8% 9';,
21 Neck X .97 16'1• 17 17% 18 317 19 '/a
22 Bus I span X .97 7 '12 7% 8 8'1• B'h
23 Bust level No red uction 11 11 112 12 12 •;, 13
••
HALF SIZE SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS
Five percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction. ••
••
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%.
Multiply your across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.

1 Bust
Multiply by

.95
Extra Small
14 'h
Small
18'12
Medium

22'h
Large

26'h
Extra Large

30'h ••
••
X 39 42 % 1
2 Waist 46 ';, 50 % 54 /s
X .95 30 % 34 % 38 112
3 Hip X .95 42 '1• 46

.•
4 Crotch depth 41 % 45 % 49 % 53 '/. 57
No reduction 11 'Ia 15 'I•

•
5 Waist to knee 19 'Ia 23 '1a 27 '••
No reduction 22 % 22 %
6 Waist to ankle 22 % 23 'Ia 23%
No reduction 37% 37'/,
7 Ankle 37% 38 38'1•
X .95 9'1a
8 Knee
X .95
9% 10 10 % 11
9 Front crotch 16% 16 % 16 71a 17 17%
X .95 2%
10 Back crotch 3

••
X .95 3% 4 4' 2
11 Crotch ang le 3 '/, 3%
12 Nape to waist X .95
1 'I•
4'1a 4% 4'·'
No reduction 1 'I• 1 •;, 1 71a 2' 'a
13 Back neck 15 '1, 16 16 •;,
No reduction 17 17 '12
14 Back neck rise 2% 3 'I•
X .95 3% 4 '/• 4'1•
15 Shoulder length 1 1%
No reduction 1% 1 3/7 1'';
16 Across back 5';, 5%
17 Sleeve length X .95 8% 5% 5 1ta 6
18 Shoulder pitch No reduction 8% B71a 9 'ia g 'ts
X .95
22'1• 22'h
19 Bicep 1% 22% 23 23'/•
20 Wrist X .95 1% 1 71a 2 11•
13 13 %
2
21 Neck X .95 14 •;, 15'/ • 16
6% 7 'Ia
22 Bust span X .95
X .95 16 16%
7 71a a•;, 9'•
23 Bust level 7% 17% 18 18 1/•
No reduction 7% 7 1a 7
10 31,
11 'I• 8 8'.4
11 % 12'/• 12'.4
 SLOPERS AND RED UCTIONS CHAPTER 4 97

HALF SIZE RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS

lt>n percent smaller m cross . .
U th Wise d•rect•on w1th . - -.- . -
se. ese measurements when d ft out any reduct•ons m lengthw1se d~rection
Multiply your across measureme ~a ~ng slopers for fabncs that stretch 100% and over .
ment will have twill tape to stabili~esthy ·90· 10% smaller, except for the shoulder rnea~urement , because the final gar-
0
e seam and prevent 11 from stretc hing.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Lar ge
14 '12 18 '12 22 112 26'12 30'12
1 Bust
2 Wa1st
)( .90 36 '··
X .90 40 ' ' 44 '/s 47 '1· 51 '/•
3 Hip 29 ''• 32 '• 36 'h 40 43 'Is
4 X .90 39 ''• 43 ' 4
Cro tch depth
No reduction 46'1· 50% 54
5 Waist to knee 11 ''• 15 1/a 19 1/a 23 1/s 27 1/s
No reduction 22 %
6 Wa1st to ankle No reduction
22 % 22 7/a 23'/s 23 3/a
7 Ankle 37 '/• 37 'h 37 3/4 38 38 '/•
X .90 8% 9'1• 9 '/,
8 Knee 10 10 '12
X .90 15 '12 15 3/ 4
9 Front crotch 16 16 '/• 16 %
X .90 2 '/,
10 Back crotch 3 3 '1s 3 7/s 4 '1•
X .90 3 1/4 3% 4'h
11 Crotch angle 3 '/• 4 '1•
X .90 1 '/• 1 117 1'1s 1 3/ • 2
12 Nape to waist No reduction
13 15 '12 16 16 '12 17 17'12
Back neck No reduction
14 2% 3 '/• 3% 4 '1• 4 3/ 4
Back neck rise X .90 1 1 '1s 1'1s 1'1s 1 •;,
15 Shoulder length No reduction
16
5 '12 5% 5 '/• 5 7/s 6
Across back X .90 8 '1s 8% 8 7/a 9 1/s 9 '1s
17 Sleeve length No reduction 22'/• 22'12 22 % 23 23'/•
18 Should er pitch X .90 1 '/• 1 112 1% 2 2'/•
19 Bicep X .90 12'/s 13 13 3/ 4 14'/s 15
20 Wrist X .90 6 6% 7 '1s 8 8 3/•
21 Neck X .90 15 15% 16'/s 17'/• 17 3/4
22 Bust sp an X .90 7 7 '1• 7'1s 7% 7 7/a
23 Bust level No reduction 10 '/• 10% 11 1/s 11 % 12

HALF SIZE FOUR-WAY-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions.
Multiply your measurements by 0.90, 10% smaller, in both directions.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Larg e
14 112 18 '12 22 112 26'12 30'12

1 Bust X .90
7
36 /s, 38% 40 '12 42'1• 44 1/a
2 Waist X .90 29 '1• 31 32 7/s 34 % 36 '12
x .90 39 % 41 'Is 43 % 45 46 %
3 Hip
X .90 10 % 12 '12 14 % 16 '/• 18 1/a
4 Crotch depth 21 '12 21 'Ia
X .90 21 1/4 21 % 21 %
5 Waist to knee 35 '12 35 % 35% 35 7/a
Waist to ankle X .90 35 %
6 8 7/a 9 1/s 9% 9%
X .90 8%
7 Ankle 15 '12 15 % 15 3/• 15 'Ia 16
8 Knee X .90
X .90 2 112 2% 3 3 '/, 3%
9 Front crotch 3% 3 7/s 4 4 1/a 4%
10 Bac k crotch X .90
X .90 1% 1 1 '/• 1% 1%
11 Crotch angle 14 % 15 15 '/• 15 '12 15%
12 Nape to waist X .90
2% 3 3 '1• 3'h 3%
No reduction
13 Back neck 1 1% 1% 1% 1%
No reduction
14 Back neck ri se 5 1h 5% 5% 5% 5'1•
No reduction
15 Shoulder length 8% 8 'h 8% 8 '/. 8 7/s
No reduction 22 'h
16 Across back 22 '1• 22% 22% 22 %
No reduction 1 'h 1% 1% 2
17 Sleeve length No reduction 1%
18 Shoulder pitch 12 % 12 3/• 13 13% 13 3/•
X .90 6% 6% 7 7%
19 Bicep X .90 6
20 Wrist 16 3/• 17 1/a 17 1h 17 '1a 18 '/•
No reduction 7 7'1• 7 '13 7%
21 Neck X .90 7
22 Bust span 10% 11 11'/• 11 112 11 %
X .90
23 Bust level
 ~ GH<\PTER 4 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS

Men 's Regular Size Reduc t"' 0 " s

••
-----..... •
MEN'S REGULAR STABLE
KNIT REDUCTIONS
. . lengthwise direction. -----..... •
.se d~recllon without any
Zero percent smaller 1n crossw1
Use these measurements when drafting ~o~ersth~ut
Use your measurements exactly as recor e WI
reduclions
fabncs that stretch
1 any reductions.
S
°
•n from 0 % t 25%

Medium
·
Large
~ •
•
Multiply by Extra Small
32 36
ma 11
40 44 ~
48 ••
•.
36 40 44 48
1 Chest '0 32 38
26 30 34 42
2 Wa1st '0 42 46
3 H1p X 0 34 38 so
g s,a 9'1• 10 11s 10% 10 5/,
No reduction

•
4 Crotch depth 22 'Is 22% 22%
5 Wa1st to knee No reduct1on 21 718 22 7/,

••
39 1/s 39 % 40 '1• 40 % 41 1/ 8
6 Wa1st to ankle No reduct1on
0 8% 14 % 14 7ls 15 % 15 7/,
7 Ankle X
14 11> 15 15 112
8 Knee xO 14 16
xO 2 1/s 2% 2% 2 71s 3 '!,
9 Front crotch
10 Back crotch
11 Crotch angle
12 Nape to wa1st
X 0
X 0
No reduction
2 'to
1
19 1/4
2%
3 'Is
1 'I•
19%
2%
3 '12
1%
20'1•
2%
3 71s
1 112
20%
2 112
4 1/a
1'1,
21 1/, ••
••
13 Back neck No reduction 2'/,
14 Back neck nse xo % 31· % 'Is 7
/a
15 Shoulder length No reduct1on 6 6 11• 6 '12 6% 7
16 Across back xo 8 '1• 8% 9 '1• 9 31· 10 1/ ,
17 Sleeve length
18 Shoulder p1tch
19 B•cep
No reduction
xo
xo
xo
24%
1 31·
11 'I•
24 7ls
1%
12
25 'Is
1 'Is
12 %
25 %
1 71s
13 112
25'!.
2
14 '/,
••
7 11•
••
20 Wnst 6 '12 8 8% 9'/,
21 Neck xo 14 14 'I• 14 112 14 % 15
22 Chest span xo 5 6 6% 7 7%
23 Chest level No reduction 9 7la 9'1s 9 71s 9 71a 9 7/a

MEN'S REGULAR MODERATE KNIT REDUCTIONS

••
Two percent smaller 1n crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%. ••
••
Mult•ply your across measurements by 0.98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
will have tw111 tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large

1 Chest
2 Wa1st
;( .98
X .98
32
31 %
25 '12
36
35 '1•
40
39 '1•
44
43 'Is 47
48
••
••
3 Hip 29% 33 % 37'1• 41 '/s
X .98 33 %
4 Crotch depth 37'1· 41'1s 45 49
No reduction 9%
5 Waist to knee 9% 10 '1s 10% 10%
6 Waist to ankle No reduction 21 71s 22'1s 22% 22 7/s

•
No reduction 39 '1s 22%
7 Ankle 39 % 40'1s 41 '/s
X .98 40%
8 8 '1•

•
Knee 14 14 % 15'/2
9 X .98 13 % 15
Front crotch 14 % 14% 15%
10 X .98 2 15 '1•
Back crotch 2% 2%
11 X .98 2% 2 71s 3
Crotch angle 3'1s 3% 4
12 X .98 1 3%
Nape to waist 1 '1s 1 114 1 1h
~
13 Back neck No reduction 19 '1• 1%
19 %

•
14 No reduction 2%
20 '1· 20% 21 '/•
Back neck rise 2%
15 X .98 2% 2 112 2'/2
Shoulder length %
16
17
Across back No reduction 6
%
6 '1·
31· 7
1a 'I•
Sleeve length X .98
8 '1• 6 '12 6 31· 7
18 No reduction 831· 9'1• 10 '/•
Shoulder pitch 24% 9 31•
19 Bicep X .98 24 71a 25 11a 25 5ft
1'1. 1% 25%
20 Wrist X .98 1% 1'/a
11 1%
21 Neck X .98 11 31· 12% 1-4
22 6% 7 11a 13'/•
23
Chest span X.98
13% 7 7/a 8%
Chest level X .98 14 14'/•
No reduction
431· 5'1• 3
14 11'!1
9% 5 /• 6'1·
9% 95/a 8'.4
 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS CHAPTER 4 99

MEN 'SREGULARRSS~TRREE~TC~H~Y~~~~----------------------
T'l«'<" percent smaller in cross . . KNIT REDUCTIONS
U~e these me WISe direction w'th
1 t
- . asurements when draflln sl ou any reductions m lengthwise d~rection.
Multiply your across measurement b go opers for fabrics that stretch from 50% to 75%.
Will have twill tape to stabilize the s!a~ · · % smaller, except for the shoulder measurement. because the final garment
97 3
and prevent II from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large
32 36 40 44 48
1 Chest
.97
)<,
31
2 Waist 35 38 31. 42 % 46 11>
X .97 25 11..
3 Hip X .97
29 33 36 71• 40 '1.
4 Crotch depth 33 36'1• 40 3 1.. 44 'Ia 48 1h
No reduction gs.;8 9".ts 10 %
5 Waist to knee 10 '/a 10%
No reduction 22 7/o
6 Waist to ankle 21 '·· 22 1/a 22 '1e 22 %
No reduction 39 ''• 41 'Ia
7 Ankle 39% 40 '/e 40 %
X .97 8 1
8 Knee /a 14 14 3 1a 15 15%
X .97
9 Front crotch 13 ''• 14 14 'h 15 15 1h
X .97 2
10 Back crotch 2 '12 2 31· 3
X .97
11 Crotch angle 2 31• 3 3% 3 31· 4
X .97 1 1 'le 1% 1 'h
12 Nape to waist 1 'I•
No reduction 19 '1• 19 31· 20'1• 20 31· 21 'I•
13 Back neck No reduction 2% 2% 2% 2 112 2 'h
14 Back neck rise
15 Shoulder length
X .97
No reduction
'I• 'I• '/. 'I• 'I•
6 6 '1• 6 112 6'1. 7
16 Across back X .97 8 '1· 8 1•3
9 '1• 9 31· 10 '1•
17 Sleeve length No reduct1on 24 % 24 71• 25 118 25% 25%
18 Shoulder pitch X .97 1 '1• 1 '1• 1'/. 1 '1• 1 'Ia
19 Bicep X .97 11 11 % 12% 13 13 7le
20 Wrist X .97 6 '1• 7 7 31· 8'12 9 '1•
21 Neck X .97 13 % 13 71e 14 14 'I• 14 'h
22 Chest span X .97 4 31· 5'/. 6 31· 7% 8%
23 Chest level No reduction 9 112 9 112 9 '12 9 112 9 112

MEN'S REGULAR SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS

Five percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%.
Multiply your across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large
32 36 40 44 48
3
X .95 30% 34 'I• 38 41 1· 45 %
1 Chest
X .95 24 '/. 28 112 32'1• 36 '1• 39 7le
2 Waist
X .95 32'1• 36'1• 39 71e 43 '/. 47 112
3 Hip
10% 10%
No reduction 9% 9'1• 10 '1•
4 Crotch depth 22 % 22 % 22 '1•
No reduction 21 '1• 22'1•
5 Waist to knee 40 '1• 40 % 41 'le
No reduction 39 '1• 39%
6 Waist to ankle 13 % 14 'le 14 % 15
X .95 8
7 Ankle 13 31· 14 11• 14 31• 15 '1•
X .95 13 '1•
8 Knee 2 '1• 2 '12 2'1. 3
X .95 2
9 Front crotch 2% 3 3% 3% 4
X .95
10 Back crotch 1 1 'le 1 '1· 1% 1 112
X .95
11 Crotch angle 19 '1• 19 31• 20'1• 20 31· 21'1•
No reduction
12 Nape to waist 2% 2% 2% 2 '12 2 112
No reduction
13 Back neck
X .95 'I• 'I• % 'I• 'I•
14 Back neck rise 6 6'1• 6 '12 6 31· 7
No reduction 9'/.
15 Shoulder length 8 '1• 8 31• 9 '1• 10 '1•
X .95 24 '1• 25 'Ia 25% 25 %
16 Across back 24 %
No reduction 1% 1 31· 1'/. 1 '1e
17 Sleeve length 1%
X .95 11 % 12'1• 12 le 7
13 112
18 Shoulder pitch 10%
X .95 6'1e 7% 8% 9
19 Bicep
X .95
6 '1•
20 Wrist 13 11• 13 112 13'/. 14 14'1•
X .95 5% 6 112 7'12 8'12
21 Neck 4%
X .95 9% 9 112 9'1• 9'/3 9'/s
22 Chest span No reduction
23 Chest level
 (\)
HAP'I"ER 4 SLOPEAS A N D R E DU C TI O N S

----
MEN'S REGULAR RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS
Ten
Use.
••Uit ply yo
me t ur across measurements by . ·
. eductions 'n lengthwise d~reclion
n·, a n crossv.,se o~rect•on '"thou! an\ r
I·• •tlese Measurements \\hen oratt no slopers for fabrrcs
that stretch 100%and over.
-0 90 tO% smaller. excep
t for the shoulder measurement. because the lmal ga
. nt 11 from stretching.
n _w. I have tw1l tape to stab' ,ze the seam and pre•e
r s,.
:
M - L --..
- Extra small Small e 0 IUm arge Elltra Large
Multiply by 32 36 40 44 4~

1
2
Chest
Wa1st
K .90
<90
~~ •
32
27
36
30 '
39.
34' ·,
~
37';,
••
••.
30 ' 34 ' • 37 .l 41 ' 45
3 H1p <90 , 9' a 10''• 10re 10';,
4 No reduct1on 9
Crater depth 21 • 22'1• 22-'la 22';• 22';,
5 Wa1st to Knee No reductiOn 41 'Ia
6 No reduct10n 39 • 8 39 , 40 'Ia 40 'Is
7
Wa1st to ankle 7' 13 13% 13 /e 14 ';,
7 Ankle ' 90 12 • 13 13'· 14 14%

••
8 Knee 90 2 2'1• 23;• 2'1• 2'/a
X 90
9 Front crotch 2, 2 ?/e 3 1 's 3 H? 3 1/•
10 Back crater ' .90 1 1 11e 1 11, 1';,
" .90 1

••
3
1' Cro'ch angle 19 /• 19% 20'1• 20 • 21 '/,
12 "'ape to wa1st No reduction 3
No reduct, on 2 /e 2'1. 2 /e 2'1> 2 ';,
13 BacK neck '' r, 31• Ia 'lo
14 Back reck r se ' .90 6 :, 6'!2 6 31• 7
No reduct1on 6
15 Shou der ength 8% 9 'I• 3
9 t• 10'/,
16 Across back )( 90 8'1•
No reduct1on 24% 24 11a 25'1a 25% 25 5! 8
17 S eeve length 1% 1% 1% 1'/.
18 Shou der p1tch " .90 1%
" .90 10'1a 10 % 11 'h 12 'Ia 12 7/o
19 8 cep
20 Wnst 90 5 71a 6'h 7'1• 7 71a 8';,
21 Neck X 90 12% 12 71a 13 13 1/.• 13 1h
22 Chest span X 90 4% 5 'h 6 'I• 7 'Ia 8
23 Chest level No reduction 8 71• 8 1la 8 7la 8 '1a 8'1.

MEN'S REGULAR FOUR-WAY-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS

••
Ten percent sr a ler n rossw1se direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction. I
Use these measurements when dratt1ng slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both d irections .
Mult1ply your measurements by 0.90, 10% smaller, in both directions.
I
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Larg e Extra Large I
--------------------------~----------
32 36 40 44 48 I
2
3
4
1 Chest
Wa1st
Hip
Crotch depth
/ .90
I( .90
X .90
28 %
23 %
30 %
30 %
25 '1•
32 %
32 %
27
34'/•
34
28%
36
1
/4 36
30%
37%
• I
5
6
Wa1 st to knee
Waist to ankle
X .90
X .90
X .90
9 '1a
20 3/4
9 '1·
20 7la
9%
21
9 '12
21 1/a
9%
21 1/• •
7
8
Ankle
Knee
X .90
37 '1•
7 1/2
37 %
12 3~
37 %
13
37 7/s
1 3'~
38 '/s
13% •
X .90 12 % 12 71s 13 13 1/• 13'h
9 Front crotch X .90
10 Back crotch
2 2 2 1/s 2 1/4 23fe
X .90 2 7/a 3'h
11 Crotch angle 3 3 1/e 3%
X .90 1 11/3
12 Nape to waist 1 1/a 1 114 1 1/4
X .90
13 Back neck 18 % 18 1/2 18 % 19 19'/•
No reduction 2%
14 Back neck rise 2% 2% 2% 2%
No red uction % 3J,
15 Shoulder length
No reduct ion
% % 3/4
16 Across back 6 6~ 6% 6% 6 1h
No reduction 8 1/4 1
17 Sleeve length
No reduction 8 12 8% 9 9''•
18 Shoulder pitch 24% 24 % 24 7/e 25 25 1 '8
No reduction 1%
19 Bicep 1% 1% 1% 17/s
X .90 10 11s 1
20 Wrist
X .90 10 12 10% 11 1/s 11 112
21 Neck 5 7/s 6 1% 6~ 6% 71•
No reduction 14
22 Chest span 14 / e 14 1/• 14% 14'11
23 X .90 4%
Chest level 4% 5% 5% (i1•
X .90 9% 1
9 1/4 9 1/• 9 3/a t A
::...;...,...;
 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS CHAPTER 4 101

Men's Short Size Redu t"

c Ions
MEN'S SHORT STABLE KNIT
Zero percent smaller in crosswi . . REDUCTIONS
Use these measurement h se direction without an d . .
Use yo ur measurem t s w en drafting slopers fo f 6're uct,ons m the lengthwise direction.
en s exactly as recorded 'th r a ncs that stretch Irom 0% to 25%.
WI out any reductions.
Multiply by Extra Small
Small Medium Large Extra Large
32S 36 s 40 s 44 s 48 s
1 Chest
2 Waist
xo 32
3 Hip
x o 26
36
30
40 44 48
42
4 Crotch depth
xo 32 36
34 38
44 48
No reduction 40
5 Waist to knee 9 9'1• g •;, 9% 10
No reduction 20 •;, 3
6 Waist to ankle No reduction 20 /. 21 21 '1• 21 '12
7 Ankle 36 36 '12 37 37 112 38
8 Knee
xo 8 14 14 •;, 15 15 '12
9 Front crotch
x o 13% 14 '1s 14% 15 1ls 15%
x o 2 2 '1• 2 112 231· 3
10 Back crotch xo
11 Crotch angle 2% 3 3% 3% 4
12 Nape to waist
x o 1 1
1 1s 1 '1· 1% 1 112
No reduction 18 11s
13 Back neck 18 % 19 1ls 19% 20 11•
No reduction 2 '1• 2'1• 2% 2% 2%
14 Back neck rise xo '!. 31· 'le 'Is 'Is
15 Shoulder length No reduction S'ls 6 '1s 6% 6% 6'!.
16 Across back xo 8 8';, 9 9 '12 10
17 Sleeve length No reduction 23 23 11• 23 '12 23 '1. 24
18 Shoulder pitch xo 1% 1'/. 1'/. 131· 1 7ls
19 Bicep xo 10 112 11 114 12 12 314 13 '12
20 Wrist xo 6 '1· 7 731· a•;, 9 '1•
21 Neck xo 13 112 13'/. 14 14 114 14 •;,
22 Chest span xo 5 5% 6 6% 7
23 Chest level No reduction 9 '12 9 '/. 10 10 114 10 112

MEN'S SHORT MODERATE KNIT REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to SO%.
Multiply your across measurements by 0.98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large
32S 36S 40S 44S 48S

X .98 31% 35 114 39 114 43 1ls 47

1 Chest
X .98 25 112 29% 33 % 37 '1• 41 1/s
2 Waist
X .98 31 % 35 114 39 114 43 11s 47
3 Hip 9 '/, 9'/. 10
No reduction 9 9 '14
4 Crotch depth 20'/. 21 21'1• 21 112
No reduction 20 112
5 Waist to knee 36 112 37 37 112 38
No reduction 36
6 Waist to ankle 13'/. 14'1• 14 % 15 11·
X _g8 8
7 Ankle 13 71s 14 % 14 7l s 15 3 /s
X .98 13 %
8 Knee 2 2'14 2 112 2 314 3
9 Front crotch X .98 3 '14 3% 4
2% 3
10 X .98
Back crotch 1 1 11s 1 '14 1% 1 112
11 Crotch angle X .98 19 11s 19% 20 1l s
18 11s 18%
12 Nape to waist No reduction 2'14 2% 2% 2 31s
No reduction 2'14
13 Back neck '/. '/. '/. 3;.
X .98
31·
14 Back neck rise S 'l• 6 11s 6% 6% 6 "'•
No reduction 8'12 9 9 '12 10
15 Shoulder length 8
16 Across back
X .98
23 23'1• 23'12 23 31• 24
17 No reduction 1% 1'/. 1'/. 1 3t.
Sleeve length 1%
X .98 11 11 ·1· 12 112 13 '1•
18 Shoulder pitch 10'1•
X .98 6 71a 7% 8% 9
19 Bicep 6'1•
20
X .98
13'/• 13 112 133/• 14 14 'I•
21
Wrist X .98 43/• 5'1• s•;, 6'1• s•;,
Neck X .98
9'1• 9'h 9 3/• 10 10'1•
22 Chest span No reduction
23 Chest level
 .,..,.
,
\HAPTER 4

MEN'S SHORT STRETCHY K

SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS

NIT REDUCTIONS
. lengthwise direction.
----..... .
·,.
••
·•thout any reduct•ons 'n oo/c to 75%. .
Th ·ee percent smaller on crosswise dorectl~n :rs for fabrics that stretch from 5 r omeasurement. because the f•nal garment
Use these measurements when draft.ngos9~p3% smaller. except for the shoulde
Mult•pl) vour across measurements by .nd. prevent It from stretching.
\\111 have tw•ll tape to stab•hze the seam a

=
Multiply by

=====================;~;--------;
Extra Small

3~2~5~-----335~6~5~-----:~y,------
Small
.
Medium
40 S
Large

44 5
~
Extral-

48 S
.
I

•
•.
38314 42 % 46 1!,
----------
97 31 33 36 'I• 40 3;,
Chest 25 ''a 29 38 314 42 '/o 46 1/,
1 X ·
2 Wa1st ' .97 31 35 9 '12 9314 10

•
3 H1p ' .97 9 9 'I• 21 21 '14 21 '!,
4 Crotch depth No reduct1on 20 3/
No reduction 20 '·' '2 37 37 '12 38
~~~8
••
5 Wa1st to knee
6 Wa•st to ankle No reduct1on 36 14 14 '12 15
x .97 7 lo 3; 14'1• 14 % 15 '/a
7 Ankle 13 ' 1• 13 1' 5
2 1e 3
Knee x .97 2 ,;.8 2%
8

••
Front crotch x .97 2 3 'I• 3 '12 3 7/e
9 3
Sac~· crotch
97 2 '1• 1 1 '1• 1% 1'/,
10 1
11 Crotch angle ' .97
18'/e 18 s;. 19'1• 1g% 20 '/e
12 Nape to wa1st Noreduct1on ,; 2% 2% 2%

••
2 1/.a 2 I •4 3j.•
13 Back neck No reduct1on
314
% s;. 3
;,
14
15
Back neck nse
Shoulder length
Nored~~tion 5 '1o
8
6'1•
8 112
6%
g
~~~·2 1 ~'/e
7
red~ction 2
~ ~· i ,1
••
16 Across back 23 '12 2
17 Slee• e length No 23 23 '14
1% 1% 1% 4 4
18 Shoulder P•tch .97 10 'le 11 11 % 12% 13
19 B•cep
< :~i 6 6% 1
7 12 8 '1• 9
20
21
22
23
Wnst
Neck
Chest span
Chest level
x .97
X .97
No reduction
13
4 '/.
9 '14
13%
5 '/.
9 '12
13 %
5%
9%
7
13 1e
1
6 14
10
14
6 'f.
10 '/a ••
MEN'S SHORT SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS
••
Five percent sma 1er 1n crossw1se direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%.
Mult1ply your across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
••
will have tw111 tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
•
1
Multiply by Extra Small
32S
Small
36 s
Medium
40 s
Large

44S
Extra Large
485 ••
.-
Chest

••
X .95 30 % 34 '/. 38
2 Wa1st 41 % 45%
X .95 24 %
3 Hip 28 '12 32 '!. 36'/e 3g 7/e
X .95 30 % 34 1/4
4 Crotch depth 38 41 3/4 45%
No reduction 9 9'/.
5 Waist to knee 9 '12 9% 10
6 No reduction 20 '12 20 %
Waist to ankle 21 21 'I• 21 '12
No reduction

.•-
7 Ankle 36 36'12 37
X .95 7%
37'12 38
8 Knee 13'1• 13 % 14 y,
9 X .95 14 '/•
Front crotch 13 13% 13 71e
10 X .95 14 % 14 7/e
Back crotch 1 7/e 2 1/e
11 X .95 2% 2% 2'/•
Crotch angle 2'12 2 7/e
12 X .95 3'/e 3 '12 3 3/,
Nape to waist 1 1
13 Back neck No reduction 1 '/, 1 '13 13/e
18 1/e 18 %
14 Back neck rise No reduction 19 1/e 19 % 20 '1•
15 2 '1• 2'/•
Shoulder length X .95 2% 2% 2 3/s
16 % % a;,
Across back No reduction
5 1a7 % 3j,
17 X .95 6 '/a
18
Sleeve length 8 6% 6% 6 7/e
Shoulder pitch No reduction 8 '12 9
19 B1cep 23 23'/•
9 '12 10
X .95 23 '12
20 Wrist X .95 1% 1% 23% 24
21 Neck 10 1% 1 3/• 13;,
X .95 10 3;,
22 Chest span 6 11 % 12 1/e 12 7/s
23 X .95 6%
Chest level 12 71e 7% 8 8 3/4
X .95 13
No reduction 4% 13'1• 13'12 133/•
5 '1a
9 5% 6'/e 6 'A
9'1•
9'12 9% 10
 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS CHAPTER 4 103

MEN 'S SHORT RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction with .
Use these measurements when draft" out any reductoons in lengthwise direction.
Multiply your across measurements ~ngo slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% and over.
ment will have twill tape to stabilize th~ s~90, 10% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final gar-
am and prevent it from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large
32T 36 T 40T 44 T 48 T
1 Chest X .90
2 Waist 26 31. 32% 36 39% 43 '1•
X .90
3 Hip 23 % 27 30 '1e 34'1a 37 31•
X .90 28 314 43 '1•
4 Crotch depth 32% 36 39%
No reduction 9 10
5 Waist to knee No reduction 9 '1• 9 '12 9 31•
6 Waist to ankle 20'12 20 '1. 21 21 'I• 21 'h
No reduction 36 37 '12 38
7 Ankle 36 '12 37
X .90 7'1· 13 '12 14
8 Knee 12% 13
X .90 12 '1· 12'1. 13% 14
9 Front crotch 13 '1•
X .90 1% 2 2 '12 2%
10 Back crotch 2 '1•
X .90 2% 3%
11 Crotch angle 2 31• 3 3 '1•
X .90 'lo 1 'I• 1%
12 Nape to waist 1 1 'I•
No reduction 18 '1o 18% 19 '1• 19% 20 '1•
13 Back neck No reduction
Back neck rise
2 '1• 2'1• 2% 2% 2%
14 X .90 >;.
15 Shoulder length % 'I• 'I• 'I•
No reduction 5 71o 6'1• 6% 6% 6 71•
16 Across back X .90 10
8 8 '12 9 9'12
17 Sleeve length No reduction 23 23'1• 23 '12 23 31· 24
18 Shoulder pitch X .90 1 '12 1 '12 1% 1% 1%
19 Bicep X .90 9'12 10'1• 10% 11 '12 12 'lo
20 Wrist X .90 5% 6'1• 7 7% 8%
21 Neck X .90 12 'I• 12 % 12% 12 7lo 13
22 Chest span X .90 4% 5 5% 5 31· 6 '1•
23 Chest level No reduction 8 '12 8% 9 9 '/. 9 '12

MEN'S SHORT FOUR-WAY-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when draft ing slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions.
Multiply your measurements by 0.90, 10% smaller, in both directions.
Mult ip ly by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large
325 365 405 44S 485

1 Chest X .90 28% 30 % 32 31a 34 '/. 36

2 X .90 23% 25'1• 27 28 % 30%
Waist
X .90 28 31• 30 % 32% 34 'I• 36
3 Hip
4 Crotch depth X .90 8% 8% 8 31• 9 9
X .90 19 '12 19% 19 314 19 71• 20
5 Waist to knee
X .90 34 'I• 34 '12 34 % 35 35 'Ia
6 Waist to ankle 12 % 12 7l o 13
X .90 7'1• 12 %
7 Ankle 12 % 13 13 '1•
X .90 12 '1• 12'12
8 Knee 2 2 2'1a 2 '1•
X .90 1%
9 Front crotch 2 11• 3 3 '1• 3%
X .90 2%
10 Back crotch 1 1 'Is 1 '1• 1 '1•
X .90 1
11 Crotch angle 17 112 17 '1. 18 18 '1•
X .90 17 '1•
12 Nape to waist 2 '/. 2 '1• 2% 2%
No reduction 2'1•
13 Back neck 'I• % 'I• '!.
No reduction %
14 Back neck rise 7 6 6'1• 6 '1• 6%
No reduction 5 1•
15 Shoulder length 8 8 '1• 8% 8'/. 9
16 Across back No reduction 23 '1• 23 '/. 23% 23 '12
No reduction 23
17 Sleeve length 1% 1% 1% 1 31· 1 31•
18 Shoulder pitch No reduction 9% 10'1• 10'12 10%
9'12
19 X .90 6 6'!. 6% 7
Bicep 5%
20 X .90 13% 13% 13 71s 14
Wrist 13 112
21 No reduction 4% 5 5 11o 5%
Neck 4%
22 X .90 9'1o 9'1• 9% 9 '12
Chest span 9
23 X .90
Chest leve l
 'H <II.~'li.'R o4 SLOPERS AND R
EOUCTIONS

c
••
••
••.
4
5
1
2
3
Chest
Warst
Hrp
Crotch depth
Warst to knee
.• .
••
6 Wars! to ankle
7 Ankle
8 Knee
9 Front crotch
10
11
12
13
14
Back crotch
Crotch angle
Nape to warst
Back neck
Back neck nse
Shoulder length
•
••
15
16
17
18
19
Across back
Sleeve length
Shoulder prtch
Brcep
No reduct1on
xo
xo
••
•••
20 Wnst xo
21 Neck xo
22 Chest span xo
23 Chest level No reduction

MEN'S TALL MODERATE KNIT REDUCTIONS ••

••
Two percent smaller 1n crossw1se direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%.
Mult1ply your across measurements by 0.98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.

Multiply by Extra Small

32T
Small

36T
Medium
40T
Large
44T
Extra Large
48T
••
2
1 Chest
Waist
X .98 31 % 35 1/4 39'1• 43 / a1
47
•
-••
X .98
3
4
5
6
7
Hip
Crotch depth
Waist to knee
Waist to ankle
Ankle
X .98
No reduction
No reduction
No reduction
X .98
26 '12
31 %
10
23 1/a
40
30 %
35 '/•
10 1/4
23 %
40'12
34 1/4
39'1•
10 12
23%
41
1
38'1•
43 1/a
10 3/4
23 7/a
41'12
42 '/s
47
11
24 '/s
42
•
8 Knee 8 13 %
X .98 13%
14 '/• 14 3/ . 15 '/•
9 Front crotch X .98
13 7/a 14 % 14 7/a 15%

•-
10 Back crotch 2 2'1· 2 '12
X .98 2% 2% 3
11 Crotch angle 3 3'!.
X .98 1 3% 4
12 Nape to waist 1 1/a 1 '!. 1'/2

,.•
13 No reduc tion 20 1/a 1%
Back neck 20 %
14 No reduction
2 '1•
21'/a 21 % 22 1/s
Back neck rise 2% 2%
15 X .98
% 3;. 2% 2%
Shoulder length %
16 Across back
No reduction 5'1e 1 % %
X .98 6 /a 6% 6%
17 Sleeve length 8 8'12
6%
18 No reduction 26 9 9 112 10
Shoulder pitch 26'1·
19 Bicep X.98 1 3/. 26 '12 26 3/4 27
X.98 1'/e 1'1e
20 Wrist 10 '/• 11 2 2
21 Neck
X .98
6 '/a 1P;, 12 112 13'/•
22 X .98 6 7/e 7%
Chest span 13'1• 13 112 8% 9
23 Chest level X .98 4 3;. 13 3/4 14 1•Y•
No reduction 5 1/4 s a;. ea,.
9 112 ga;. 6'14
10 10 1/.
-~
 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS

MEN 'STALLSTTRREET~C~H~Y~K~N~~~~-------------------------------
lhrt>e percent smaller inc . IT REDUCTIONS
Use these measure rosswlse direct1on w1tho 1 .
M 11 ments when draftin 1 u any reduc11ons in lengthwise direction.
Y, ~p1Y ~our across measurements bygo ~~P~~s for fabrics that slretch from 50% to 75%.
WI ave Wi ll tape to stabilize the seam ~ d' % smaller, except for lhe shoulder measurement, because the final garment
n prevent 11 from strelching.

•
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large
32T 36T 40T 44T 48T
1 Chest
J 2 Waist X .97 31 35 38 3/• 42% 46 '12
X .97
3 Hip 26'1• 30 34 37 7/s 41 %
J X .97 31

••
4 Crotch depth 35 38% 42% 46 112
No reduction 10
5 Waist to knee 10 '/• 10'12 10% 11
No reduction 23 1/s
6 Waist to ankle 23% 23% 23 7/s 24 1/e
No reduction 40
7 Ankle 40 112 41 41 112 42
X .97

• 8 Knee 7 7/s 13% 14 14 112 15

X .97
9 Front crotch 13 1/ . 13% 14 '/e 14% 15 1/s
X .97
10 Back crotch 2 2 1/s 2% 2% 3
t 11 Crotch angle
X .97 2% 3 3 1/4 3'12 3 '1s
X .97 1 1 1 '1• 1% 1 '12
J 12
13
Nape to waist
Back neck
No reduction 20 /s 1
20% 21 1ls 21 'Ia 22'/e
No reduction 2'1• 2 1
2% 2% 2%
J 14 Back neck rise X .97 •;. /•
a;. a;. •;. •;.

••
15 Shoulder length No reduction 5 7/s 6'/s 6% 6% 6'1•
16 Across back X .97 8 8 112 9 9 112 10
17 Sleeve length No reduction 26 26 1/4 26 112 26% 27
18 Shoulder pitch X .97 1% 1 7/s 1 7/e 2 2
19 Bicep X .97

••'
10 '/s 11 11 % 12% 13
20 Wrist X .97 6 6% 7 112 8 '1• 9
21 Neck X .97 13 13% 13% 13 7/s 14
22 Chest span X .97 4•;. 5'1• 5•;, 6 '1• 6 ·1·
23 Chest level No reduction 9 112 9•;. 10 10 '1• 10%
I
~ MEN'S TALL SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS

~
Five percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%.
I Multiply your across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment
will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
I
•
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large

1 Chest X .95 30% 34 'I• 38 41 % 45 %

40 'I•
1
2 Waist x.95 25 'Ia 29 '12 33 1• 37
3 Hip x .95 30 % 34 'Is 38 41 % 45 %
3
4 Crotch depth No reduction 10 10 '1• 10 '12 10 /• 11
5 Waist to knee No reduction 23 'I• 23 % 23 'Ia 23 'I• 24 'I•
6
· tt kl
W a1s o an e
No reduction 40 40'12 41 41 '12 42
95 7 s;. 13 '1• 13 % 14 '1• 14•1,
7 Ankle X · 13 13% 13 71e 14% 14 71e
95
8 Knee X · 1 '1• 2'1• 2% 2% 2 7le
9 Front crotch x ·95 2'12 2 'I• 3 116 3 '12 3%
10 Back crotch x ·95
95
1 1 1 '/• 1 '1• 1%
11 Crotch angle x · 20 'Is 20 % 21 1ls 21 'Is 22 1/s
~~ ~=~~~~~aist
14 Back neck rise
~~;:~~~::~~
X ·
95
2;~
5 'Is
2;~
6'ls
2:::
6%
2:::
6%
2:::
6 71s
15 Shoulder length No reduction 8 8 '12 9 9'12 10
95 3
16 Across back X · 26 26 'I• 26 '12 26 1• 27
No reduction 3 ,, 71
17 Sleeve length 1 31• 1 'I• 1 ,s 1 1s 2
95
18 Shoulder pitch X · 10 10 % 11 % 12'/s 12 71s
X .9 5 6 6 s' ?• 's 8 B''
19 Bicep x .95 's " ''
20 Wrist X . 12 7ls 13 13'1• 13'12 13%
95
21 Neck X .95 4% 5'1s 5% 6 6'12
22 Chest~~~an~--------~~~~~·~------~9~~~·--------9
No reduction --'12_________9_~_._______1_o__________1o~·-~----
23 Chest level
 106 CHAPTER 4 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS I

~
MEN'S TALL RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS
Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% and over. .
•
I-
------ ;.
Multiply your across measurements by 0.90, 10% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final Qar-
ment will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
Multiply by Extra Small Small Medium Large Ex~
~
••I I

28%
32T
32 %
36T
36
40T 44 T
39%
481
43 1;, •• I

•I•
1 Chest X .90 31 112 35 11a
2 Waist X .90 24 114 28 38 3;,
28 31· 32 % 36 39% 43 1; ,
3 Hip X .90

•.
10 10 11• 10 112 10 % 11
4 Crotch depth No reduction 23 7la
No reduction 23'1• 23 % 23 % 24 ';,
5 Waist to knee 41 41 '12
6 No reduction 40 40 112 42
Waist to ankle 13 13'12
7 Ankle X .90 7 '1• 12 % 14
12 11• 12 % 13 1la 13 % 14
X .90

••
8 Knee
2'1• 2 '12
9 Front crotch X .90 1% 2 2';,
10 X .90 2% 2% 3 3'1· 3%
Back crotch
X .90 'Ia 1 1 1la 1 '1• 1'1.
11 Crotch angle

•
No reduction 20 'Ia 20% 21 '1s 21 % 22 '1•
12 Nape to waist
13 Back neck No reduction 2 '1• 2 '/. 2% 2% 2%
14
15
16
Back neck rise
Shoulder length
Across back
X .90
No reduction
X .90 8
'I•
5 71a
'I•
6 '1•
8 '12
6%
9
'I•

26 '12
'I•
6%
9 '12
26 %
10
"'
6 71a
••
•
17 Sleeve length No reduction 26 26'1• 27
18 Shoulder pitch X .90 1% 1% 1% 1% 1 31·
19
20
21
22
Bicep
Wrist
Neck
Chest span
X .90
X .90
X .90
X .90
9 '12
5%
12'1a
4%
10 1la
6 '1•
12 'Ia
4 'Ia
10 %
7
12 %
5%
11 '12
7%
12 71a
5%
12 '1a
8%
13
6'1•
••
23 Chest level No reduction 8% 9 9 '1• 9'12 9%
•
••
MEN'S TALL FOUR-WAY-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS
Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
••
.•
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both direct ions.
Multiply you r measurements by 0.90, 10% smaller, in both directions.
Multiply by Extra Small
32T
Small
36T
Medium
40T
Large
44 T
Extra Large

48T
•
1 Chest X .90 28 % 36
30 % 32% 34 '/•
2
3
4
Waist
Hip
Crotch depth
X .90
X .90
X .90
24 'I•
28 %
9'12
26'/a
30 %
9%
28
32%
9%
29 3/•
34 1/4
9 7/a
36
10
1
31 '
••
-•-•
5 Waist to knee X .90 1
22 22 22 '1• 22 '13 22 '
6
7
Waist to ankle
Ankle
X .90 38 38 1/4 38 112 38 3/4 39 ~
X .90 7'/. 12 % 12 % 12 7/s 13
8 Knee
X .90 12 1/4 12 1/2 12 % 13 13 1 s
9 Front crotch X .90 1%
10 Back crotch 2 2 2 1/a 2' '
X .90 2% 2 7/a 3 ~s
11 Crotch angle X .90
3 3 1/a
12 Nape to waist 1 1 1 1/a 1''• 1' •
X .90 19 1/a
13 Back neck 19 % 19 % 19 / a 20
No reduction 2'1. 2 ~,
14 Back neck rise 2 1/4 2'1• 2% 1
No reduction % s,
15 % %
16
Shoulder length
Across back
No reduction 5 7/a 6 6 1/a
''•
6'1• 6~S
No reduction 8
17 Sleeve length 8 '/• 8'12 8 3/4 9
18 No reduction 26
Shoulder pitch No reduction 26'/a 26'1• 26% 26'/l
19 Bicep 1'/a 1 7/a 1% 2
X .90 1 '/a
20 Wrist 9 '12 9% 10 1/e 10s/,
X .90 10 'h
21
22
23
Neck
Chest span
Cheat level
No reduction
X .90
5%
13 112
4%
6
13%
4%
6'1•
13 3/.
4%
6%
13 7/\ ,..5'.41
7

X .90
9'1• 5
9% 9'1t 9'~ t1!,4
 CHAPTER 5

Skirts

About This Chapter

This
· chapter
· · h begins · with the development of the sk'1rt soper I
smce· 1tt IS t t'e eas1est
· of all styles · Draft th k' t b fi
e s 1r y o11owmg . '
t h.e ms
. rue wns, usmg the measuremen t s prov1'ded , or by sub -
st1tutmg measurements from the charts m · the previous· ch ap-
ter. You ~ay create all of the different stretch skirt slopers-
sta.ble kmt, moderate kmt, stretchy knit, and super-stretch
knit-or Simply create the largest ratio stable kit and draw
the other ratios in colored markers. ' '
In addition, this chapter demonstrates the drafting pro-
cess for different patterns, such as A-line skirt, slightly
gathered waist, full gathered waist, and dirndl skirt; center
back slit, side-seam slit, drawstring side-seam, and gathered
side-seams. Although all these patterns are labeled "one-way
stretch," they may be used interchangeably with two-way-
stretch and four-way-stretch fabrics because a skirt does not
pass over the shoulders or through the crotch, therefore not
utilizing any of the lengthwise stretch. For maximum mobil-
ity and a tight fit, one-way-stretch garments should always be
cut with the stretch going around the body.
There are five principles of knit patternmaking that are
explained and illustrated throughout this chapter:

1. Negative ease
2. Adding a style line .
3. Slash and spread to add fullness, flare, gathermg, and
ease
4. Circles for skirts and ruffles . d 1 t'
5. Reductions for binding, bandi~g, ~n:, ~:il~ ~::~a gen-
6. After studying this chapter, t e s u ~?"
era! knowledge of stretch patternma mg.

Skirt Slopers
back that are identical.
. . . ly a front and . . 'bl U
The skirt sloper IS simP d how this IS possi e. n-
ay won er, h
Woven patternmak ers m . '11 always stretc to con-
't fabncs WI 1
derstand that stretch-k m f the body. You may a so
form to the front a~d b.:c~r~~=~ ~traight. Understand also
wonder why the waist I
107
 10$

=
.
HAPTE:H 5 SKIRTS

th aist will h appen because of Lh(• corn

that the curve of . e w ·
~
pression of the fatbl1te·tcs.kirt is stretched across, it will shorten in
Note that as
. and exc
tl1e watst
compress ' to c1•ea t e an artificial curvedbwms
the tendency of knits is to mold to the o y.
d b t t h'
. ess that is not shortene · t YTh'
d .
s re ·c bmg Will
1s LS ecause
-.••
One-Way-Stretch Skirt Sloper
(Stable Knit)
•..
The following draft is shown for the skirt sloper an~ is illus.
trated in Misses Medium, but the. measurements for Small,
Large, and Extra Large are also mcluded for future drafts. .•
•..
Also, note that personal measurements may be substituted
in the Standard Measurement column, to create a personal
sloper, or you may substitute Misses measurements for other

••
size ranges, such as Petite, Junior, Half Size, Plus Size, etc .
The front and back skirt sloper will be drafted on top of
each other; then notched, traced, separated, and labeled. Slop-
ers/blocks should always be made of oak-tag, green board, or
block plastic.
The experienced patternmaker will complete all the sets of
••
skirt slopers for each stretch ratio. Before starting any draft,
••
determin e the stretch ratio of the fabric and select the appro-
priate sloper. However, for clarity, time, and to save materials,
the draft in this chapter is completed in stable knit, and the
other stretch ratios are indicated on the slopers in contrasting
colored ma rker s. •
.
Note that a particular company's size specs may fall be-
tween sizes. The dra ft should be drafted accordingly.

MEASUREMENTS NEEDED FOR STABLE KNIT SKIRTS

Use the Misses stable-knit measurements forth . . . . .
rat1os on the sloper with contrastin 1 e basic Skirt draft, Since 1t IS the largest, then indicate the different stretch
g co ored markers.
Standard
Medium
New Divide Extra
measure- Reduce
# measure- by Extra
ments by Extra Extra
ment panels Extra Extra
2 Waist Small Small Small Medium Large Large Large
27 % 0%
3 Hip 28 '!. 4
38'12 22% 23'12 25'12
0% 39 1/ , 27 % 30'12 33 112 37 ':
4 Crotch 10% 4 33 1/ 2 34 '12
No length 36% 38 1/2 41 1
44 1 48'':
depth 10 112
'2 '2
reduction 10% 10 '12 11 ;.
5 Waist to 10 % 10 '/s 11 1•s
23 No length
knee
reduction 22% 23
6 Waist to 22 7/s 23 23 1/. 23'•
38'12 No length
23 112
ankle
reduction 38';. 38 '12 38 1/ , 38 '12 39 39'12 40
___.
 SKIRTS C HAPTER 5 109

Skirt Sloper Draft

Since the ft·ont will be d ra f ted on t f
sun~ments need to be d ..d d. 0
P o the back the mea-
lVI e Into four. '
Extra Extra Extra
# Extra
Extra Small Small Small Medium Large Large Extra Large
2 'I• of waist 5%
3 •;, of hip 5 7/a 6% 6 7/a 7% 8% 9%
8% 8% 11 1/a 12 '/•
4 Crotch depth 9 '/a 9% 10 %
10 •;, 10%
'/3 of crotch depth 10 4/a 10 % 10 7/a 11 1/a 11 %
3 ';, 3 •;, 3 •;, 3 •;, 3% 3 3/4 3 3/4
For your sample size and stret h .
from t he a ppropriate ch t f c ratws, choose measurements
ar rom the p1. ·
explanation of reductions and evwus c11apter. For an
ter 4, Slopers a nd R eductions. measurements used, see Chap-

,-1---~·

-i
j_ ____ ______ _

D~ c

J
H

A-B = square across the waist measurement
(#2 from chart).
A-C = crotch depth square down (#4 from chart).
C-D = hip measurement squared across (#3
from chart).
D-E = squared up to waist level, it's just a tem-
porary guideline and should not meet up
with B, but should square up to E.
Divide E-F into thirds, as illustrated:
Since there is no such thing as "stretch muslin"
to test the fit, you must create a custom style
using the actual fabric. This may not be prac-
tical for the home sewer, student, or for a cus-
tom designer, who may only want to purchase
enough fabric for one garment.
In order to do this you must exaggerate the
fit through the hip area and simply serge off the
excess after the fitting.
Draw the hip curve to the higher mark and
correct the hip shape in fitting.

. E-F =one-third of E-D. Do not spend a lot of time and effort draw-
ing this hip curve, as it will eventually be
F-G = one-third of E-D . serged off.

• G-D = one-third of E-D .

At B-G for industry sizes (one-third of E-D),
draw a curved hip line using a variform c~rve,
. . tely #4 of the ruler (vanform
p lacmg approx1ma d. · t 0 th
A-H = waist to knee (#4 from chart), or any
length required.
A-H =waist to ankle (#6 from chart).
curved ruler) at the waist and bien mg m e C-H = square down.
side seam to draw the hip curve. d d- D-I = square down.
The shape of the hips may change epen d
t the age group, an H-1 =square across.
ing on the target mark e '
size specs of your customer.
110 CHAF'H' R 5 SKIRTS

I( 1
7"'1 =
••
'

a: a: .,"'E1 ••
'
.,"'
••..
w w
a. a.
0 0 :\2

.
--'
(/) --'
(/) .,"'
1-
s

.•
~
z u
0 <(
"0
c
a: m
u.. "'
.<:
L)

-ro
E

}S"
Remove '//' from the back side-seam of the draft.
Add '14' to the front side-seam of the draft.
Trace the hip notch to both pieces.
This 1s so the back is larger than the front; and, when
viewed from the front, you cannot see the side seams, as
they will be slightly toward the back.
TRUEING THE SKIRT SLOPER ••
Place a hip notch at G (two-thirds from waist to crotch).
Trace separately and true the skirt slopers.
Place the front and back side-seams on top of each other
•
••
••
and ensure that they are exactly the same shape and
length, and that all notches match perfectly.
A perfect sloper is required for a perfect garment.

2 3
u_
t)

0
-'
()
OJ

-,
0
. ••
••
::
::
::
_ ONE-WAY
STRETCH
STABLE KNIT
SKIRT BLOCK
FRONT
0u_ r
0 ONE-WAY
STRETCH
STABLE KNIT
SKIRT BLOCK
BACK
••
:: MED MED
::
:: NAME NAME
:: DATE CREATED DATE CREATED
:~

Label the slopers correctly and include whether

For clari~y, time, and to save materials, the stu- they are the front piece or the back piece.
k · designer may create the sloper £or stable
dent Label the slopers with the type of stretch-
mts and trace the other fabrications using the "one-way stretch"-and the degree, or type. of
measurements already provided. stretch.
Label with your name and the date created·
Stable Super-
Moderate Stretchy Stretch
No grainline for blocks. It is not necessarY
Knit Knit Rib
Knit Knit Knit
to label the skirt "one-way" stretch as that is
Waist 0
Hip 0
'Ia v. -'I• -v. implied when labeled "stable-knit." '
-'Ia v. 'I• v. _Label the side seams with the other stretcb
ratios (see next).
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 111

'f(

~•
••
I
COMPARE SLOPERS

If you have created a complete set of slopers in all stretch

Line up all four sets of skirt slopers at the center front and
check that the differences between slopers match. and
I rat1os, compare and check the side seams. that all curves are exactly the same.
I Line up all four sets of skirt slopers at the side seams and Repeat for the back.
check that the differences between slopers match, and
I that all curves are exactly the same.
Repeat for the back.

Skirt Equipment
The seam allowances needed depend on the type offabric used and equipment used (see Chapter 3,
Principles of Pattern-Drafting).
Stable Knits Use %" or W' seam allowances for thicker 4-thread serger or
fabrics, or loosely knitted, because if the 5-thread serger
fabric is very thick, the serge will just pull
off if too small
Use %" seam allowances 4-thread serger
Moderate Knits 4-thread serger or 3-thread serger
Use './.o'' or%" seam allowances
Stretchy and Super Stretch Knits

Seam Allowances For Skirts

%" 4-thread serger
Side seams 1" Cover-stitch
Straight hems V2" Cover-stitch
Curved hems For elastic in a casing
'./.o''
Waist edge (depends on the style None For elastic serged to waist
of waist finish} 3Ja" For separate waistband
For underwear finish
%"
For ribbed waistband
%"
None . For%" binding
Same width as the elast1c
Straight stitch
Waistbands 1., fold back facing/hem
Slit
 I
'1'1- CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS
~
~
~
3'8" 3'8"

r •
••
3 18" 38
::
•
••
••
I':
I ::
:I:~ ~i
I':
:I ;::~
••
318" 318

I;:
I':
I::
1• hem allOwance
:I :::~
I ':
I::
I::
••
ADDING SEA
M ALLOWANCES TO SKIRTS
m allowances for assembly.
I::
'-·~..L_ _ _ __

t ~ apt'o
h propriate sloper front and ••
All patterns need sea II
The amoun
t of seam a owan
ce is determined by
. th revious chart.
the seam allowance m tt e p trace out the dra ft
To complete the ~a ~r;, add the necessary
Trace
back. The out
choice:
stretc ra I depends on your fabric
••
or sloper. For a Simp ~lis ~:~ted label the pat-
seam
allowances as I u
d
tern as illustrate , an
' .
d add the grainhne.
b hecking every
•
•
•
Stable knit
Moderate knit
Stretchy knit
•
Always true the pattern y c . . • Super-stretch knit
seam allowance before cutting it out mh tabnc.. IJ • Rib knit
Check the lengths of every seam t a t WI Decide on the fit of the waist you require, or
be sewn together.
desire:
Check the notch placement, and that all
notches match perfectly. . • Fitted waist
Check that all intersecting and crossmg • Semi-fitted waist
lines form a smooth and continuous line. • Unfitted waist
Check that all seams a re squared.

Waist Volume
Depending on the season and the silhouette currently in fash-
ion, you may add fullness to the waist of a skirt or pants.
Each technique provides slightly different results. This sec-
tion demonstrates the various techniques used to add fullness
at the waist of skirts. The principles may be applied to pants
and other garments as well. For instructions on how to draft a
separate waistband, see Chapter 6.
For waist finishes that are attached to the skirt pattern,
such as casings and elastic finishes, see the following:
Medium waist == 26 112'' + 25%.
Stable-knit s_tretch 1ratio == 331/2", which is not enough to pull
over th~
h1ps;
of open1ng 36 12''
at the unless you use a zipper, or some kind
waist.
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 113

~ ...
P1nS at the wa 1st

stretch to fit
the htp

HOW TO TEST IF YOUR SKIRT WILL PULL ON WITH-
OUT A ZIPPER
Fold your fabric a few inches down from the cut edge and
lay it on top of the skirt draft, at the waist. Place one pin at
the side seam and another at the center front.
Stretch the waist and see if it will reach the draft, at the
hip level.
If it stretches enough, then you may use the fitted waist. If
not, then you must check to see if the semi-fitted waist will
stretch enough to fit over the hips. If not, then you must
use the unfitted waist.
If you fuse a waistband or facing, the skirt will still not pull
on and a zipper or other opening will be needed.

WAIST FIT
There are different waist fits that must be considered when
drafting skirts.

FITTED WAIST
For a fitted waist (applicable only if the fabric will stretch
enough to be pulled on over the hips), use the sloper as a...1
drafted and add seam allowances, hems, and other de- 0
u..
tails required . u..
. f ld of the fabric a few u
To check place the crossw1se 0 . d
• the waist of your fabnc, an
inches below the cut edge on . t f your sloper/
. h ount of the wa1s o
place pin s markmg t e am . t will stretch to
. ht d see if th1s amoun
patterns. Hold t1g an nfitted waist. If that is
the width of the hips. If not, use the u
too large, use the semi-fitted waist.
 114 CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

=
••
••..
a.

~I
rr
CF
a.
::J
~
"'
::J
CF
..
.•.
..
::J 0"
U)
0"
<J)

UNFITTED WAIST
Use the loosely fitted waist draft when the fabric does not
SEMI-FITTED WAIST

For semi-fitted waist, find the middle of the fitted waist and ••
••
stretch enough to allow the waist to be pulled on over the the unfitted waist and draw a new hip, using the vanform
hips, such as with stable and moderate knits. hip curve. Alternatively, increase the waist by any amount
that will allow the waist to fit over the hips.
For example, the waist of a stable-knit skirt is only 26'12'',
while the hip is 36'·"'. The fabric will not stretch enough to
allow the skirt to be pulled on over the hips:
••
•
26 '12" + 25% (6W') ; 33'14', too small for hips of 36'/i'.
Increase the waist by extending the side seams straight
up, which will resu lt in a larger waist that can be pulled in
with gathering or elastic.

increase by 50%
increase by 100%

.- - -------- -------- -----------------·--

.. -------------------------
CF
CF

----------------

Additional Waist Gath .

Your · enng
desi.gn may require additional
a t the wa1st. gathering For medium gathermg,
· double the original
For light g th · . measurement (increase by 100~ ).
w · . a enng, Increase th
aist measurement by 50%, e original
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 115

CF

·------------
-------------==-----

Very h~a.vy or exaggerated .

the ongmal measure g~thermg may triple
300%). ment (mcr ease by up to
This may be too much .
or regular-weight fabrics. gathermg for heavy

s\a.sn and spread the desired amount

CF

.....

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Waist Gathering Without

Increasing the Width at
the Hem Increase by 50% of the ori ina! w .
The previous draft increases the hem circum- up to as much as double the orT i 1 alst,
ference as well as the waist. Follow these in- measurement. g na wa1st
structions if you wish to increase the waist and Remember to blend the hem . t 0
and continuous line. m a smooth
not the hem.
Slash and spread to create added fullness
at the waist.
 116

••
CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

St_y le #5-001 Basic Skirt With Side

Shts, Patch Pockets Elastic in a ••
Casing, and Cover-Stitched Hem
••.
.....
This basic style teaches about basic skirt patterns, patch
pockets, slits, details, elastic in a casing, elastic stretch ratios,
and cover-stitched hems.
Complete this pattern as illustrated for practice before
attempting to draft any other styles, and construct using
the sewing instructions in the companion textbook, Stretch
Construction.

•.
Compare your skirt blocks and sample with the mark
sheets in the Appendix before handing them in.

•
••
••
••
I::
'
'::
. D
•
••
I::
'.
'.
' ..
r::
I::

••
I::
'.: :
I
I:;
I':
I::
I:;
I':

.: i i
_._;_
Trace out the a - - .- - - . . . . J
Th ppropnate sloper front and back •••
PATCH POCKETS
e stretch ratw depends on your fabric choice:.
• Stable knit
• Moderate knit
A patch pocket may be placed anywhere on the skirt,
pant, top, sweater, or T-shirt, but will be explained on the ••
-•
• Stretchy knit back of this skirt, 2'12'' below the waist.
• Super-stretch knit
• Rib knit
Decide on the fit of
desire.
• Fitted waist
.
the waist you require, or •
: Semi-fitted waist
Unfitted waist
 SK IRTS CHAPTER 5 117

1
2

Draw a. guideline
. 2'12'' below the nat ura1 wa1st
.
It m b Find the center of the guideline, from hip to center back,
lower 1f reqUJred or if used for lowe red wa1sts
. · or ay e
1 and measure down the depth of the pocket for 5".
that the design requires. ' any P ace
If using the semi-fitted or unfitted waist, the guideline will
be wider and you should use the center of that new line.

3 4
T
0~
l
5'

The pocket may be used straight across the bottom or

Make the pocket 5" wide, centered on the vertical guide-
may be angled. For an angled bottom, measure down an
line, 2'12" on each side of the guideline. Alternatively, use
additional 'h'' to create the bottom of the pocket.
any measurement that you require .

1/4' 6 0 0
5

"'"'0'
Drill holes are created by actually drilling a small hole in
". d es at the top of the the garment, and must be inside the pocket or your gar-
Mark the drill marks 'I• 1n from the e g dges of the ment will have visible holes.
"" from the top e
pocket, and measure down ,.
Only the complete skirt should have the drill marks, not the
pocket.
pocket draft.
 •••
CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

l"hem

- r----------------------·-
x·:

: '1\~' r:
Add a 1" hem at the top of the pocket and %" seam allow-
ances on all other sides.

-•.•.
•.
••
Create any design on your
pocket.
The stitching used for designs
••
- r:.

,__ .
'
---------.\.::·-------~ -
------~?",:
.---.

.......:::/:·:·.:::··......
will prevent the pocket from
stretching out of shape. Note that
the pocket will need tricot fusing
•
••
'
·---
·_ _i /_:'
,' .--------...
\_\
when stitching a design; remem-
ber to trim away all excess tricot.
••
••
- -----------------------~ -
'
'' ''
- ------------.. ----------., -
I '' I
••
!.r-·: :~:.~.:.:::>'::\··: •.•
'
'''
'''
'
~: f::::::~::::::::::::::: 1::
''
'

'' !.l
••
''
''
'
''
'
'
'''
'
'
''
' ''

',<\//
.... ______ ..· '

••
-•
·--...... _ __J i i
I ':,~·~---
........ __ J

•
- - -- ------ -~ ------------..,
I
I
I

:
To prevent the pocket from stretching out of shape when
sewing it to the skirt, serge the bottom of the pocket with
twill tape, on the inside of the pocket, for one-way stretch.
before applying it to the garment.
..
~
~

•
\ However, if using four-way stretch, serge the twill tape to
'
-- ---- --.. I
~
I
all three sides. The top will be hemmed with the cover-
I
I stitch machine.
·. I
I
I
I
I
I
I

. _.... !
~
I

----
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 119
3"

1
CF 2
CF

SLASH POCKETS WITH 1" ANCHOR

Create a 6" pocket line going from the 3" mark to wherever
Place a mark on the waist 3" in from the side seam. 6" of length lands on the side seam.
You can create a pocket as small as 5 '12' for very small
hands and up to 7" for large hands.

,~ : /
' 1 1"
CF
4
CF

11"

s·

s·

Square in for 1". M easure down 1" for the poc ket anchor.
Draw the pocket bag 11" down and at least 5" wide. Shape
as illustrated. The pocket bag can be enlarged, made
deeper, but it is not a good idea to make it any shorter,
because when the customer sits down the contents will
fall out of her pocket.

/.. .
5 CF

blend
SKIRT FRONT
blend MED
._/':-:.· CUT1

f r easier assembly, so the

0
Blend into a curved pocket bag y around instead
. t all the wa Trace and separate the pocket places, and label as Illustrated.
operato r c an serge 1n one s ep erging
. . ners when s ·
of hav1ng to p1vot at the cor
120 CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

7 8
"Z:.:
~//
UPPER BAG
MED
CUT 2

The pocket bags are customarily cut from self, but may be
cut in lightweight fabric or tricot lining if a pocket facing is
created .
Draw the facing line onto the under pocket, 2" in from the Trace out the pattern pieces as illustrated .
cut edge, and trace 1t through to the upper poc ket.

3"
2
1
CF

Create a 6" pocket line going for the 3" mark to wherever it
SLASH POCKET WITH FULL ANCHOR
lands on the side seam. You can create a pocket as small
Place a mark on the waist 3" in from the side seam. as 5 112" for very small hands and up to 7" for large hands.

3 4
CF

11"
UNDER
POCKET
CUT2
s·
l
SKIRT FRONT
MEO
CUT1

Draw the pocket bag 11 , d

as illustrated. The pocket bown and at least 5" wide. Shape
. . ag can be en\
deeper, but It IS not a good idea t arged, made
because when the custome 't o make It any shorter
fall out of her pocket. r Sl s down the contents win
Trace out the pocket bag as illustrated.
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 121

7"

1"

Skirts may be created wit h a slit on one side or

both sides of the side seams.
The side-seam slit is created the same as
Side-Sea m Slits the center back slit; however, it must be added
to the front side-seam as well as the back side-
seam of the pattern .

//···r·· ··c
\ SKIRT FRON
i MED
_;cUT 1 ON FOL

I
I
I

... ... . . t.. . ..

I
I
I
I
-~
_ J, - -----
____ _ _
I

CENTER BACK SLIT

11 wances to the pat-
Add the n ecessar y seam. a ? the fold line of Slits should be used to allow movement and increase mo-
ter n a nd a dd a notch to mdlcate bility in straight, narrow skirts that extend below the knee.

th e slit. a llowance to This draft requires a seam line, which is shown in the cen·
You don't a dd a n extra seam ter back, but may be any place the des1gn requires.
the slit , as it is a lready added. Draft a slit on center back, center front, or side front .
 C H 1\l'llR 5 S KIRTS

CB
CB

'-
1"1 ~
6" 6"

1" 1"

May be straight across the top o f the slit, if desired.

Trace out the appropnate skirt sloper.
Create a center back slit of any length, illustrated here at 6". Create a bias angle at the top o f the slit, 1" above the slit
if desired. '

fl
(I

CB il

ONE-WAY STRETCH
SKIRT BACK
("'
..r"" ... ,
,...
.
il

fl

.
MED ....
I
CUT2 I
I
tl
I
I

..•
I
I
I
I
I
I

..
I
I

=1==========
Complete the draft as illustrated.
It is not necessary to . 1
end of sewing· you ca
'
1nc ude th d -1
. e n I hole to indicate the
n eas1ly st .
parallel to the angle in the slit. op sewing at the level
SIDE-FRONT SLIT
Create a slit on the side f
structions.
.
ront by follow1ng the same in- ..,...
,.,.
If the slit is not sewn d
. own for at I Draft the slit on either side or both sides.
or rema1n closed {S east 1", it will n t 1.
· ee construction n t o 1e flat
o es.)
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 123

1"

6"

1"

Trace out the appropriate

sloper.
Trace out both sides, since
the style is asymmetrical.
Determine the style line
SKIRT
placement.
FRONT PANEL
MED Draft the slit as required.
CUT1
R.S.U.

l \

CF CF

------------

Draw a guideline up from the waist, an amount equal to

ELASTIC IN A CASING th
attach elastic at e the width of the elastic (illustrated at 1" for 1" wide elastic).
There are many different ways to nd simplest for begin-
waist. This method is the easiest, a
ners to understand.
 ~ iAPTI:R 5 SKIRTS

1" X 25"
fimshed elaStiC
--
;.
'tit
;.

"'-
CF

•-
Measure up an add•t•onal amount for the foldback. Th1s IS
the area tha' w1l be ms1de wher> the wa•st 1s folded down
Label the wa1st with the fimshed elastic measurement.
There are many different ways to sew the elastic, each
.-.
•-
i lt
••
w1th different seam amounts, so 1t is always preferable to
indicate the fin1shed, or after sewn, measurement.

•..
If the manufacturer's particular equ1pment requires a
larger or smaller seam allowance, inform the sewer what

....
length of elastic you wish after the waist is sewn.
Follow the same procedures for unfitted and semi-fitted
waists.
The elastic measurement remains the same for all three
waist styles.
iM.I
The customer did not get any larger; she is simply wearing
a skirt wi th more gathering.

1
1"x25"
finished elast1c
-.-.
.....
CF

...............
........................ :::::::::::::;
COVER-STITCHED HEM : 1'"' hem allowance •
·-------------------!
Cover-stitched hems are the b Use at least a 1" hem allowance for straight hems. This will
choice for the hem. The c est and most professional g1ve an added . .
stretch. over-stitch will allow the hem to d . amount of we1ght to the hem, and hold 1t
own Without creating a heavy hem.
For curved hem ,
s, use a 112 hem allowance.
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 125
1" X 25"
finished elastic y,"
.-----------------------,
0 0 ~ 1"x25" ....:
_) finished elastic :.,,

SKIRT BACK
MED \/, . :.J~ \,:
\( I \\1
CUT 1 CUT1

.. 4,

l ___ l_ ______________ _ _________________ j ____ j

Seam Allowances For
WAIST
Style #5-001 Add ';." seam allowances to the top edge of the waist, for
serging, or turn under.
Illustration shows the final style before any
seam allowances have been added. Note that
all production patterns should be cut full un-
folded, as illustrated. '

.------------------------.
~ 1"x 25" ....: %"
%"

''
~
''
''
) finished elastic

,./ 0 0 I \\ :,

''
''
~'
'

. I .
'' '
: SKIRT BACK :'
: MEO :
: CUT1 :
'' ''
' '
v.· :' :' w·
,} "·

: :
r \ ''
~-----------------------------------------1:
''

l___ l _---- --------------------------- J__ - _j [

1
1" hem allowance
1
_

SIDE SEAMS
HEM
Add %" seam allowances for 4 -th read serger.
Add 1" hem allowance for a straight hem.
1to the original.
Keep the curves exactly para 11e The completed pattern should lo<;>k like the illustration.
before the necessary labeling.
SLITS d d· the
llowances ad e •
The slits do not need any seam a
foldback has already been added.
 ,
~
:,.
126 HAPTER 5 SKIRTS

'
:
''
....
''
:
,'/ 0
::---;=;-25--------------:
,,~ finished elast1c

0
i
"~
\\
\
\

~
''
'
''
STYLE# 7001
SKIRT BACK
\\ -.•...
' l '
: STYLE # 7001 : MED
~ SKIRT BACK j CUT1

••
: Mffi :
: CUT1 : '

l --
' '
: :\
,'

...,o~"'
'-
..-
'I<
------------------------------------
-----------------~---~------ - -------------

1· hem allowance
'-

•..
Each pattern piece should be traced out on oak-tag for
PATTERN LABELING
production.
Label the pattern as 1ndicated. Include the drill marks for

-..
Many patternmakers like to have as little information as
the pocket placement. the style number, the part of the
possible on the pattern, and t ake pride in having a clean,
garment, the s1ze, and how many to be cut.
neat pattern; however, it is often preferable to indicate as
Label the waist w1th the fimshed elastic measurements. much information on the pattern as possib le, for easier
Number your pattern p1eces as illustrated to correspond to production.
the pattern card, p1ece number 1 of 2.
Complete the pattern card as shown in the Appendix, and
paste, glue, or staple to oak-tag and hang on the pattern
hook, m front of the completed pattern.

l 2" 2" 1
------ --------------------- -------·

STYLE #5-002 SKIRT WITH LOWERED

SIDE-FRONT SLITS WAIST AND
Lower the waist any am
at 2" below the nat aunt required, but illustrated here
This style teaches how to lower a sk·1rt . ural waist.
tic reductions necessary for 10 Waist, and the elas-
. wered waists
shts, and elastic in a casing. • panel seams,
 SKIRTS CHAPTER !> 127

rr~ - -------------- 11
,r --------------------
1
'---- ---------- ------

'' '' ' '

• 1" 1" • t' 1" 111
t'
'' '' '' ''

I I
'' '' '' '
i
i '
4" 4"
'
4"
4" I
!
y y y y
·---- 1"
----~
1"
·----
1"
----~
1"

For the casing, use 1'12' elastic, so draw a guideline 11/2 Create panel seams as desired.
above the newly lowered waist. It is much sexier and flattering to make the seams paral-
Then square up an additional 1112'' for the part of the casing lel to the original side seam, rather than having a square,
that folds down. boxy panel.

~~- ~-~~-~-~~-~-~~-~~~-~-~~
1 1/2" X 27"
finished elastic

I
·---- ----------

'' '' ''

... 1" 1"
''
...
... 1' 1" ...

'' ' '' ''

'''' ''
I 4" ! !
y
4"
'

y
'
4"
4" !
i
y
y
·----1" ·----
----~
1" 1"
----~
1'

Label the waist with the finished elastic measurement.

·d of the waist.
Square down to create the s1 es Note that the elastic should be the measure-
ment of the model or the dress form , at the new
waist minus 1".
l.'~~ HAPT R 5 SKIRTS

ANEL SKIRT FRONT

SIDE
MED
PANEL
CU11 SELF
MED
cur:>

Draw a g•a
mm
fie <m he Side p:::~e
Separate the p1eces

Notch t'le PI es 10 er co structiof'l

•
1 •• J( '2T'

I;
f.n shed elasbc

•I
I t
-
SIDE PAN-L SV.IRT FRONT i
':iit MED

CliT 2
CUT I SUF
•
I r •

.l
Add the necessary seam allowances as illustrated. Note
that no seam allowance has been added to the slit, since 11 STYLE #5-003 SKIRT WITH LOWERED WAIST AND
1s already a hem allowance. or facmg. SIDE STRIPES IN CONTRASTING COLOR
Also note that the seam allowance has not . Ie Sl.de stripe. or
This skirt design shows how to draft a s1ng
been added to the waist edge, since the elastic racing stripe, without a side seam.
will be serged to the raw edge, folded over, and
cover-stitched. The raw edge and the elastic
line up perfectly, and no seam allowance in nec-
essary for this application.
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 129

CF

,• 1"

t Trace out the sloper and draw in the side-seam stripe. Trace and separate the pieces.
t
The maximum width without a side seam Do not cut two side panels, but instead create a single
t should not be more than 3" total or 1 112" on each panel.

~
side.

• CB
CF

t BACK
I PANEL CUT
FRONT
PANEL
MED 2 MED

'
CUT1
CUT1

I
I
•p 1 1 1
Draft a straight pattern piece that is the same length as
!l .
Instead of creating two Side pa
nels that require a side
the seams.
~ seam, combine the t wo panels.

~
•
 130
\It
'-
CF ........
w
w

......
....
w

.....
STY LE #5-004 PEGGED-WAIST SKIRT
A pegged-wa1st skirt may be created by enlarging the origi-
Slash and spread to create added fullness at the waist.
(Refer to section on gathering ratios.)
Increase by 50% of the original waist, up to as much as ..
Ia

•.
nal waist, wh1ch can be pulled 1n w1th elastic or gathering. double the original waist measurement.

...
Blend the hem into a smooth and c ontinuous line.

CF iii
Ill

....

"-(
To exaggerate the p d
circu f egge effect, decrease the hem by 4"
m erence, or 1" from each side seam.
STYLE #5-005 FULL SKIRT
A slit will be necessary if the skirt . b I
IS e ow the knee.
To create a full gathered skirt, use a combination of both
techniques illustrated above.
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 131

square blend

CF

Find the center of the original b l

the hem. ock, and draw a line to
blend

Slash and spread the waist and the hem, and enlarge
anywhere from 50% to 100% of the original waist mea-
surement.
Blend a new waist and hem .

extra fullness
.·:----_-_-_-_-_-_-_-.-.-.-.-.---.--------- 9f________________ ________ _ / \ t e gathers

' :.·:... ... _~ather

,. t~ -~riQi~~j ~~i~i ~~~~~~~~-~~1;
·················-····-·-··-·········-·
• • •• •• • ;
'

~FT"r; CF

DIRNDL SKIRT
FRONT
MED
CUT1

-----------.-- --------- ----- --- ----------- ____ _____ _,_-

STYLE #5·006 ALTERNATE METHOD OF DRAFTING

Add seam allowances and hem allowance to comp lete the
pattern. Label the waist w ith the finished , already gath-
ered, measurement. Since all knit fabrics have a nap, the
grainline should have arrows pointing in the same direction
as the nap.
THE DIRNDL SKIRT/ FULL SKIRT
Straighten out the side seam, and add fullness through the
side seam of the block, usually double the measurement
of the original waist. This will result tn a large rectangular
pattern, which will be gathered at the waist. Alternatwely.
use elastic in a casing to pull the watst tnto the original
waist measurement.
 1~ \'H.&.PTER 5 SKIRTS

CF
"'•'-...
1

...
.. '' ••
-..
•
••...
Adding Flare and Volume
to the Hem
STYLE #5-007 A -LINE SKIRT
blend

Drafting the A-line skirt with the following technique

produces a skirt with the flare primarily at the sides of the
skirt.
.fll
fll
••
Extend the side seams outward as much as the design
Volume at the hem w1 add drama. movement, and fluid1ty
requires.
to many des1gns
Keep the waist measurement the same.
D1fferent A-l.ne sk1rts can be created usmg different meth-
ods of draft.ng Each w111 produce sl1ghtly different effects
for your des1gn
Square th e hem at the side seams.

Keep the side seams the same length.

•
••
blend
2 c
3
c

Slash ~
ana • Preaa to create fu\lnes
Drafting the A-line skirt with the f .
duces an A-line skirt with th fl ollowtng technique pro- Blend the waist.
e are at the front of the skirt
Slash and spread the sk'rt bl . .
full as the design requir~s. ock Into an "A"-shaped line as
Blend the hem into a smooth, continuous line.

Keep the waist measurement the same.

This draft retains the original hip curve.
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 133

3
4

•
~
·;,,~~.;- -
Slashing the skirt in multiple place
that has the fullness spread ev s produces a skirt pattern By adding a waistband or elastic to the hem, you can cre-
en 1Y Wlthm the front panels.
I ate a pout skirt.

• .
IS
The more slash es, the more evenly the fl are
spread;_ therefore, the more even t he fullness
Occaswnally the design may even reqmre . ·
~
.
more vo1ume m the back than the fron. t

blend
5

.·
Controlling Flares
The decision of whether or not to blend the
waist curve is determined by requirements of
the final design. Blending the waist will force
the skirt to fall evenly and softly.

STYLE #5-008 EXAGGERATED A-LINE

Combine both of the above techniques for an exaggerated

A-line skirt.
r··'·;(·
.. fl

Clip the waist to force the skirt to fall in

distinct folds. The tension is released and forces
the skirt to fall into the folds where they are
drafted, and where the clips are.
 ~3~ CHAP1 ER !> SKIRTS

3"

3"

C reat e a temporary guideline indicating, where

b t
you want
b
the godet to be placed. (Illustrated at 3 u may e any
place the design requires.)

STYLE #5-009 SKIRT WITH GODETS

A godet skirt is similar to a trumpet skirt, except that the
godets do not need a seam and are sewn into a slash m
the hem of the skirt.

CF

SKIRT FRONT
MED
CUT1

......'" '

&
,:: 1 .....

.c
"'
<t_ "'
'iii

.. _,.

Draw the godet as large or as small as desired.

Keep the hem of the godet at right angles to the sides by
using a compass or a ruler, as illustrated.
Trace out the godet pattern piece.
Since a seam allowance cannot be added to the slash.
you need to add twice the seam allowance amount to the
godet in order to maintain the godet size, and balance.
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 135

CF

SKIRT FRONT
MEO
CUT1

.:
''
:'

1" 1"
1" 1"

To exaggerate the appearance of the godet, and make it

more VISible:
Remove 1" from the slash line at the hem.

Add 1" to each side of the godet pattern piece, as indicated.

The sewing line decreases to almost nothing at the top of
STYLE #5-010 SKIRT WITH ASYMMETRICAL HEM
the godet.
Diagonal hems are created by simply shaping the hem as
required.
Because the cover-stitch cannot pivot around a corner, it
is necessary to hem the front and back of the skirt before
sewing the side seams.

To create a drawstring at the side of the skirt, simply create

GSIDE-SEAM a slit extension as high as you wish the drawstring to be.
STYLE #5- 011 ORAWSTRIN ·ng up the
be c reated by drawl
An asymmetrical hem may string
side seam with a cord , ribbon, or .
136
CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

SKIRT FRONT
MED
CUT 1

j
Create an equal extension on both the back and the front
patterns. The drawstring extension may be applied to
either side of the garment, or both sides, depending on the
designer's sketch.
To construct the skirt, sew down the side seam, press the
seams open, and topstitch the seams open.
Insert the string, then sew the top of the seam allowance
open, catching the string.
STYLE #5-012 TIERED SKIRTS

'

j r
:··-:;=··--=-----=--·--=t:i
'
===:::;!~ !-
double

I
10'
10"

30"

double

13"

I
'----------------------------------
I

-- --
I
-- - -~
Lengthen the skirt sloper
to 30" by extending the Decide on the placement of the tiers.
stde seams and center
Tiers may be even am
front straight down. Flare . aunts or graduated amounts, as shown.
each sktrt outward 1" at th h
e em.
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 137

Trace out and separate the skirt tiers:

• 1 skirt that is 7" long
• 1 skirt that is 17" long
• 1 sk~et that 1s 30" long
All three skirts will attach to the same waistband.
For extra volume at the hem, add 1" of flare to each s1de
seam.
Because of the amount of bulk and the weight of the skirt,
this draft is only suitable for lightweight fabrics.

•
I
SKIRT FRONT
LOWER SECTION
MED
CUT1
CF

I
•
I L----------------------------------------------------------------

I
I
I
I STYLE #5-013 TIERED SKIRTS
I
I
••
•
••
•

•=
138 CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

sbtch1ng hne
~-l -----------r;:

FABRIC
LINING

stJtching hne

To reduce the we1ght of the skirt and the Cut the lining as described.
bulk at the waist , use a lightweight knit
lining to support the tiers of the skirts.
Place the lining seam 2" above the previ-
ous tier so it will not show.
Add 1" flare to each side seam.
··.:
UPPER FRONT
MED
CUT 1 SELF

MIDDLE
LINING
MIDDLE FRONT
MED
CUT 1 SELF j FRONT
MED
CUT 1 LINING

.J/::::::::::::::::::::::::::::... -........::::::::::::::::::::::: LOWER

LINING
FRONT
LOWER FRONT MED
MEO CUT 1 LftiiNG
CUT1 SELF

Cut the middl t" . .

e ler In lining and self as described.
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 139

Cut the lower t 'er on lm,ng and self as descnbed

UI'PE~ORONT
CUT 1 SELF
I
I i

MIDDLE FRONT
MEO
CUT 1 SELF

LOWER
LINING \
FRONT
LOWER FRONT
MEO
MEO
CUT 1 LINING
CUT 1 SELF

CF

Decide on the placement of the folds.

STYLE #5-014 COWL SKIRT WITH DEEP RADIATING

FOLDS
Cowl skirt w ith deep radiating folds.
 140 HAPTER 5 SKIRTS

CF

Spread each sec!Jon twoce the amount of the fold desored. For softer, more fluid folds that fall softly, blend the side
May spread as e1 en amounts or radoatong amounts, as seam as shown.
illustrated

CF CF

•.---- -- -·

For more controlled folds blend

• as ondocated.
If you wish to tack the fold .
folds and retrace th .d s to the sode seams, close the
e so e seam.

'
•
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 141

~
'
' '
'-,'

'
'
'
'
'

STYLE #5-015 DRAPED-EFFECT SKIRT

Decide on the placement of the folds.
Sarong-effect skirts may also be c reated using the slash
and spread technique. Decide on the size of the folds.
Folds may be even amounts or radiating amounts.

Connect all the points.

Slash and spread the folds. . d
Slash and spread the tucks, dou ble the amount require .
~ HAPTER S SKIRTS

·····-··::::::::::::::::::

STYLE ltS-016 TWO FRONT TUCKS

·eo A s 1ngle tuck may b e added 10 tho dosign os o stylo dotnil.

2'

cr

Decide on the ~ of ttte tueQ, llustrated at 3• from

Oeade on the width of the tucks.
the oenuw ltor1l They rnlfi c.~~ the~ oc
pattemna!.« clec:ades.. Spread the tucks double the amount of the pleat required
Ollustrated at 2" for a 1' tuck).
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 143
blend

CF CF

SKIRTW
TUCKS
FRONT
MED
CUT 1

blend
Label the pattern as indicated.
Blend a new waist.
Notch the pleat placement.
Blend the hem.
Note that the technique will increase the entire width of the
Skirt.
Fo r a r1g hter fit· through the hip area , refer to the following
draft. Style #5-019 Tucks for a tighter hip and thigh .

3"

3"

Decide on the plac ement of the tucks.

STYLE #5-017 FOUR FRONT TUCKS
A skirt with four front tucks may also be created using the
slash and spread technique.
This draft will increase the entire width of
the skirt, adding slight volume throughout the
hip and thigh area. For a tighter fit_ see Style
#5-019 Tucks for a tighter hip and th1gh.
144 CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

:r

CF
CF

SKIRT W
TUCKS
FRONT
MED
CUT1

Decode on the Stze of the tucks. Trace out the pattern and place notches to indicate the
tucks.
Slash and spread the tucks

2"

3"

STYLE #5-018 TUCKS FOR A TIGHTER HIP AND THIGH

Slash and spread the desired amount.
This draft differs from the previous technique in that the
skirt is only slashed to the hip area and will not increase
the entire width of the skirt, just the hip area.

side seam.the tucks, when sewn, will fall slightly toward the
However,
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 145

CF
CF

SKIRTwTUCK
FRONT
SKIRTwTUCK
MED FRONT
CUT1
MED
CUT 1

Fold and true the tucks with a tracing wheel.

Comparing the Two
Techniques
This diagram shows the difference between the
two techniques. Neither is better t h an the other;
the choice de pend s on the silhou ette r equired.

CB CF

Darts are not necessary for knit garments. However,

STYLE #5-019 ADDING DARTS sometimes the designer may require darts for aesthetic
reasons.
Place the slash line 3" from center front.
14G "HAf'TER 5 SKIRTS

..

~
'
3"

CF

\ \

\I
Slash and spread 2• for a 1 Wide mouth for the dart. Find the center of the s1ash opening and draw in the dart.
Back dart 5" down from the natural waist.

Front d art 3" down from the natural waist.

il
CF
CF
.e y, 10..
w
il
S>;IRT w DARTS SKIRT w DARTS
il
BACK

..
FRONT
MED MED iii
CUT1 CUT I
iii

Trace out pattern as md1cated.

Mark dnll holes 'h" above the apex of the dart.
Notch the darts at wa1st and fold to true.
STYLE #5-020 ADDING DARTS WITHOUT INCREAS-
..
ING THE SIZE OF THE SKIRT
The challenge with the previous draft is that it increases
the Whole skirt including the area below the dart.

Use this
Width draft
Of the When you do not want to increase the entire
Skirt.

Place a guideline in the center of the waist.

Square down to the henn. ,.,.
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 147
1'"' 1"'
,.. ,.
CB 2" 2"

s· CF

Measure 1" on each side of the guideline.

Measure down 3 for skirt front.
Measure down 5" for Skirt back.
Draw 1n the dart.
Add the amount of dart to the side seam of the skirt.
Try not to shape the side seam any lower than the bottom
of dart.

CB CF
' :
·~·
y,·l '

SKIRTwDART SKIRTwOART
BACK FRONT
MED MED
CUT 1 on fold CUT 1 on fold

Fold and true the dart.

Place a drill mark '12'' above the apex of the dart.
Horizontal Style Lines
STYLE #5· 021 POINTED YOKE
148 CHAPTER :; SKIRTS

CF

Draw In the yoke style line. illustrated at 2" d ow n at the

Side seam, and 4" down the center front, or any measure- Notch, trace, and separate the pattern pieces.
ment the design requires.

YOKE SKIRT
FRONT
MEO
CUT1
on fold

·-------·------------
---------------- -- ----------
.---------------------------
Notch and trace out the separate pieces.
STYLE #5-022 ROUND YOKE WITH GATHERED SKIRT
Add the necessary seam allowances.
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 149

CF

---~-----

To draft a skirt with a round yok d

low these instructions. e an a gathered skirt, foi-
Trace and separate the pieces as indicated.
Measure down 1 '12' on t he side seam.
On the lower portion, divide the skirt into four sections.
Measure down 3" on the center front.
Draw in a curved yoke line.
These measurements may change as the d es1gn
. requ1
.res.

Redraw the lower portion of the skirt and place notches to

Slash the sections and spread each one until the new line up with the yoke.
measurement is double the original measurement.
~50 CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

Trace out the pattern and label as indicated.

CF

SKIRTwYOKE
FRONT
MED
CUT1

2" J
CF j 3"

····t·-. ······
ill
•
iii

..
iii
•

YOKE
..•
CUT1

SKIRT w ROUND YOKE

FRONT
MED
CUT1 anMt
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 151

Gathered Side-Seams
Clear el as t IC
' may be used to gather or s hirr a ny part of a ga r-
m: nt. Remember to serge the seams bcfon? sewing the clastic
With. the straight stitch. I f you tr y to attach the elastic wh ile
sergmg at the same time, it will be much too difficult. Always
u se the clear elastic since the ends will not ravel or fray.
. A skirt, top, pant, or d •·ess style may be created with gath-
enng on both sides.
. Lengthen the ori g ina l pattern , and simply stretch elastic
111 th e seam s a llowance and sew with a straight stitch .
It is much easier to sew the elastic w ith the straight stitch
after t he seam has been serged .

I
slash and sprea1

CF

D slash and spread\

Slash and spread the section, doubling the length of the

. in roportion, slash at least
In order to keep the hlp notch p b low proportionately, original skirt.
once above the hip notch and once e '
as illustrated.
 i"HAPTI!R 5 SKIRTS

r CF

D
SKIRT WITH
ELASTIC
GATHERED
SIDES
FRONl
MEO
CUT 1

--

• StOe seam as shown.

Btenu a new smoo.,.. L bel
Label the pattern as tllusl tradt:dseaam the s1de seam with
length.
th of the ongtna st
the Ieng h d stde -seam b Y stretchtng c lear rubber
Create the gat ere . ms and sew with the
ng the stde sea • .
elasttc, after sergt . t stretch the elastic tn the
stratght-stttch machtne. Do no
hem allowance.

·-------------------------·----·-··--·-

STYLE 115-023 ASYMMETRICAL GATHERED

SIDE-SEAM
To draft a skirt with a drawstring or gathering on only one
side, and a straight hem, follow these instructions.
Divide the skirt at least once above the hlp
. notc hand once
ate
below the hip notch. The more slashes, t he more accur
the draft and the smoother the curve.
Measure the original hip length so that you will know hoW
long to cut the elastic.
 S KIRT S C HAPTER 5 153

·------,\,
''
''
\ ''
'' ''
'.
'
a. ''•
g ~
>}"--- -- - - - - - - - ; ',
.I

..''
I
~ : I

..,.. ..
s •
~
:T:
: .'
'
'
'' '
'' ' '
''
/''
'
''
' ''
''
......:
/
~

Slash and spread the skirt, on one side only, to double the Blend a new side-seam as illustrated.
amount of the original side-seam.
If the original skirt length is 22", spread the side seam to 44".

'''',,
'',,
,,
,, ,,,,
'' ••
I'
'•'•
'•'•
SKIRT WITH
'•
'•,,
,,'•'•
ELASTIC
SHIRRED
.,
.,
.,
SIDES FRONT
MED CUT 1
.,
ii ,,
..
-& ,':
<: '•
os''
.s 8'/ ,'
:j .JP /I
~ Et/
.: §/,'
1.~/,'
ct' (/)/'
s /'
.!¥ ...
,,'•'•
..
. - ~· .. -~'
-J

. Label the side seam with

Label the pattern as Illustrated. t create the gathered
easuremen · erge-
the original side-seam m bber elastic when s
Side-seam by stretching c lear ru h the elastic In the hem.
not stretc
1ng the s1de-seams. D0
154 CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

CF
f_ CF

j slash and spreadJ

SKIRT WITH
GATHER DETAILS
FRONT
MEO
CUT1

STYLE #5-024 SKIRT WITH ELASTIC GATHERING DETAIL

Gathering details may be added as a style accent, using the slash and
spread technique. .
Stretch and sew clear elastic to create the gathering detail.

CF
--------·-----···· ·
I
L - - - ---:
CF

I CF

STYLE #5-025 VERTICALLY GATHERED SKIRT

Gathering details may be added to the entire length of the skirt, using the
slash and spread technique.

Stretch clear elastic to create the gathering detail, or use an elastic thread In
the bobbin of a straight-stitch sewing machine.
 SKIRT S CHAPTER & 155

blend

..--.. Circle Skirts and Circular

Ruffles
STYLE #5-026 SLASH AND SPREAD CIRCLE SKIRT
blend

Create a circle skirt by slash1ng and spreading the skirt to

a 90-degree s1de seam.
This draft will retain the hip curve.

•••
•
:•
:-
••
- SKIRT WITH CIRC
.
ULAR FLOUNCE
h
a be added to the em
A full circle sk~rt m y
instructions.
of a skirt by following these

measurements.
k·rt to fit the hem
Draft a circle s '
 ~56 CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS
•...'-
...
w
CF
CF

••
••
12" 12"
12" 12"
•
••
Shorten the skirt by the length of the finished ruffle (i'.'ustrated
at 12" but may be any measurement the design requires).

CF
Measure the width of the skirt at the hem, illustrated at 9".

-•••
••
•
••
ill
ill

slash and spread

Draft a circle skirt using the measurements from the skirt.

For a fu ller flou nce, slash and spread in more places to
lengthen the c ircumference of th e hem.

CF

....... ······ ........ --------

STYLE #5-027 FISHTAIL

Create an asymmetrical flounce for a dramatic skirt.

 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 157

1
2
CF
CF

a·

a·

a· I a·
d1VIde mto three

Determine the placement of the tiers.

STYLE #5-028 LAYERED CIRCLE SKIRTS Shorten the skirt the amount of the bottom tier.
Create a straight skirt with multiple tiered circular flounces Divide each section into thirds, or more if greater fullness
by following this draft. is desired.
The draft may easily be changed to create many variations
of this design.
wa1st

c
lining

slash and spread

Slash and spread the top layer.

CF
length
of peplum

WITH A CIA- slash and spread

STYLE #5- 029 SKIRT ED
CULAR PEPLUM ATTACH Decide on the length of pep-
. ue It is also lum and draw a horizontal line.
Using the same technlq r;ment o f
possible to draft an ~s:voerskirts.
c1rcular peplums an
'158 CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

Circle Skirts t the hem.

Circle skirts are another wa)' of creating fullness a 3

cb

0 cf
cf Half Circle Skirt

Full Circle Skirt

May be four-seamed panels or
Quarter Circle
two-seamed panels, or even one- Skirt
seamed panel with a seam at the
center back only.

4
17"

d•rechon of the strength

Full Circle Skirt

Example: 261/2" waist.
1
26 /2" divided by 6 = 4 1/2".

Note that the across measurement has been reduced

•.· 18"
by 1" to compensate for the fabric stretch in that direction,
and may need
18"
particular fabricto. be shortened more depending on your
length shown at 18" but may be any length the
_Skirt requires.
destgner
 SKIRTS CH APT ER 5 159

dJrect1on of the streng th 17" 13\1."

dJrect•on of the strength

CF
CF

18"
18"

18"
18"

STYLE #5-030 HALF CIRCLE SKIRT

STYLE #5-031 QUARTER CIRCLE SKIRT
Create a half c ircle skirt with two panels.
Create a quarter circle skirt using •;, the waist
Follow the same draft except use 213 the waist measurement.
measurement.

CIRCLE SKIRT GRAINLINES

You may use any one of the

grainlines, as long as all pieces
are cut with t he same grainline.

Cut one for a quarter circle
skirt, cut two for a half circle
skirt, or cut four for a full circle
skirt.
Create a circle skirt with multiple panels
GORED CIRCLE SKIRT
by dividing the skirt into multiple gores.
Create a circle skirt w1th multiple panels
by dividing the skirt into gores. Add grainlines as illustrated.
Simply trace out one panel and label as
Add grainlines as illustrated.
"cut 12."
Simply trace out one panel and label as
"cut 4."
160 CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

CF

center back
opemng

Asymmetrical Circle Skirts Asymmetrical Circle Skirt

An asymmetrical circle skirt may be created
by moving the waist circumference to any place
within the skirt.
Illustrated toward the front, which will
shorten the front and lengthen the back.
Draft an asymmetrical circle skirt by drafting
the waist cut out towards the s ide seam.
Very dramatic when added as a flounce at
the bottom of a skirt.

17" 4Yz"

dtrectJon of the stretch

4Yz"

4Y1"

CF

18"

/
18"

'
•'....... -- ..
Ha.ndkerchief-Hem Circle STYLE #5-032 HANDKERCHIEF-HEM ASYMMETRICAL
Sk1rt SKIRT

Create an asymmetrical skirt with handkerc hief hem, by

Create a circle skirt with a s comb1mng both techniques .
changing the shape of the hem quare hem by
 SK I RTS CHAPTER 5 161

E waistband 3
back hem

(/) E
a:
(I) Slash waist opening "'
.c
:;
(I) "'iii
"0
3

front hem

STYLE #5-033 SLASH-WAIST SKIRTS

Draft a square with a waist opening in the center.
A· similar technique
. may be used 1o d raft a sk1
.rt with
For a 26'H' waist, draw the line 13'14' long.
s1ngle stra1ght slash as a waist opening. a
Also remove the amounts equal to seam allowances from
For this skirt you must draft a sepa ra1e wa1stband.
. this measurement.
The slash will now be 12'/." with four 'I•" seam allowances
included.

E
---------------------
waistband
3
-------------------------------
back hem

(/)
a:
(I) ~i
\(~;'"'- ~
:;
(I)
3

front hem

Change the placement of the waist slash by rotating it, or

STYLE #5-034 ASYMMETRICAL SLASH-WAIST change the shape of the hem.
SKIRTS
Or create an asymmetrical skirt by changing the place-
ment of the waist slash.
16~ HAPTER 5 SKIRTS

STYLE #5-035 TIERED SLASH-WAIST SKIRTS STYLE #5-036 YOKED SLASH-WAIST SKIRTS
Use two layers 1n lightweight fabric with offset slashes to Create a yoked version, at the hipline of a skirt.
create a vanat1on of a t1ered skirt.
fl
CF ••
i
I
i
i
i
i
i
i

MULTIPLE CIRCLE RUFFLES

measure

Measure the hem of the skirt and decide how may c ircles
••
A ruffled skirt can also be created using multiple circles at
the hem.
wi ll be used.

Illustrated at 3"X3" circles for each panel, but may be more ••

•
3" or less fullness depending on the design.

••'
.../_.// ''"
'
''
CF

/ 3"

..·
.'
.' 3"

;
3 Circles for each
Panel 3" f
With a ruffle length of 3';. or each circle. 'Ia of 3" = 'h", Complete the circle pattern as illustrated.
Attach all 12 circles together to form a - .-... ..._ ,.._ of ttll
hem. , .. ,...,.,..,_v
•
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 163

Create a circle with graduatmg

. flares. Create a ruffle with square points.

CB CF

11 1/2" 11 1/2"

3" 2Y."

Divided Skirts
STYLE #5-037 CULOTTES
Draft the culottes with a crotch depth of 10'12'' for a snug
crotch, or 11'12'' for a lowered, easy crotch.

Asymmetrical Hems with Front crotch extension:

Ruffles 'I• of front hip measurement = 2'/l'

Back crotch extension:
Combine an asymmetrical hem with circular
'h of back hip measurement = 3"
ruffles for a dramatic skirt.
164 CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

CB CF
CF

.........
.........
3"

3" 2Y."

.......
.....
To draw a balanced crotch curve, measure equal amounts
up the center front and back.

CB
Draw an angled bias line that is half of each crotch
extension.

CB CF
....
......
C '
3:
o.
'0 '
~: ....
......
,.
ct> '
o- :
"'·
'-------'---~ ---. --
Draw in the crotch curve. Square down to the hem.

CF
Button Closing
When drafting a button-front closing, the first decision must ......
.....
always be the size of the button because all measurements
are taken from that size.
The front extension is a lways the amount of the button:

.....
e.g., a 112'' button requires a 1/2" extension.
Women's and Girls garments but ton right over left, while
M~n's button left over r igh t. This applies to tops as well as
skuts, pants, jackets, etc.
Buttons are measured in units called lines.
........
BUTTON SIZES
Li ne
10
12-13
14-1 5-16
18
20
22
Inches
%'1
s/,e"
3; ,,
7
8
118
v.·
•;,.·
11
Line
24-25
27-28
30
32-33
35-36
Inches
•;

'14"
...
''/,&"

1 3/u~"
'Ia"
Line
40
42-43
45
47-48
Inches
1"
1';,,·
1 '~·
13/10
....
37-38 15/ us"

-
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 165

Button Profiles
Buttons
FLAT

~ DOME TWO HOLE

0 QUARTER BALL

FOUR HOLE

0 HALF BALL

FULL BALL
0 WIRE SHANK

0 CLOTH SHANK

0 SELF SHANK
~66 C HA PT E R 5 SKIRTS ......
lr ) "' I CF
I
--...._
w

....w....
two button button I
widths Width I

....
I
c
C> c
·c::; 0
·u; I
~ c I
E
Ql
.<::
Ql
xQl I '-
I I
~

....
I
I I
I I
I
I
H
I
I

When the but ton is placed on the center fr ont ,
it should be fra med by a half button width of
fabric on each side.
-.-.
The front exten sion is det ermined by the size of
the button; for example, a 1/ 2" button requires a
1/2" extension.
Draw in the ext en sion equa l t o the button
size. Draw in the under lap double the button

...-.
size.
Dra ft the pattern as illustrat ed.
fill

....
I
1--1-----J
_ I
1/8"1 ..•..
I

....
The button should be marked 1 's" la
th b tt · "
e u on Slze, to give the button enou h
to open and close effectively.
th
rger an
g room
And the buttonhole should be mark d t "
past the center front line, so that th t~ /sd
WRAP SKIRT

Drafting a double-breasted button-front skirt is very simi-

lar to the previous draft, except that the extension mea-
surement and button placement change.
.....
from the shank used fi . . e rea
b
dated and the tt or sewmg, lS accommo-
center front. u on appears exactly on the
 SKIRTS CHAPTE R 5 167

CF

CF I
~--------------- --- ----
faCing

1W

Extend the c enter front 2 '12'' for the extension.

Draft the waist facing 2'12'' below the waist.
Extend an additional 2'12" for the underlay.

CF The waist may be cut as a separate pattern piece or may

be joined to the front so it is a single pattern piece.

blend

Trace out pattern as indicated.

Draft a fusing pattern piece as

WRAP
I WRAP SKIRT FRONT
indicated.

SKIRT MED
FRONT CUT2 SELF
MED
CUT2
FUSE j
t
1$8 \~HAF"TER 5 SKIRTS

CF

, - notch

r--i
3" i

r----i 9"
3" i
STYLE #5-038 TRUMPET SKIRT

Trumpet sk1rts "'e,. 1nther way to add volume and move-

ment to the hem of a sk~rt
Trumpets may be added to any style line. shown here on
Decide on the placement of the seam line (illustrated at
3" from the side seam, but may be any place the design
requires).

Decide on the placement of the trumpet (i llustrated at 9").

....
liil

..
front panel seams and s1de seams.

Iii

iiill

TRUMPET
SKIRT
FRONT
PANEL
....
...
MED
Iiiii

..
CUT1

,.....
Draw in the trumpets as illustrated_ Trac e out the front skirt section on the fold, as illustrated.
May be any place the design requires_ Blend the hem.

Blend the top of the flare, or clip to release (see section on

controlling flares, above).
Label the pattern piece

Trace out the side panel, as illustrated.

Blend the hem into a smooth and continuous line.

Blend the fla .
cant . res, or chp, as described in section about
ro 11tng flares.

Label the pattern, as shown.

 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 169

CB

2"
2' 2'

6"

Trace out the appropriate skirt block.

Draw in the kick pleat as it will appear.
Illustrated at 2" wide and 6" high, but may be any size the
STYLE #5-03g KICK PLEAT des1gn requires.
Trace out the underlay as indicated.

CB
c CB

SKIRT BACK
MED
CUT2

2" 2" 2" 2"

----·-----·-----
'
·----
' PLEAT
; C:B ; LAY
' ' ' MED
underlayj underlay CUT1

------~----'--·--.!.-----'--··.L--------' Separate the pattern pieces as illustrated for better fabric

This illustration shows how the unfolded draft will appear. y1eld. Pattern may even be cut in an alternate fabric or color.

The skirt pattern may be drafted as illus- The seam will be hidden inside the pleat.
trated, but the amount of fabric in the center is
wasted. For a more practical pattern, refer to
the next.
HO CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

Skirt Projects
together to see what the fit is like, and to be-
While these skirt styles are very bas ic, they
come familiar with knit equipment. As you work
will help you understand drafting for stretch
your way through this text, you r drafting will
fabrics. become instinctive and your sewing skills will
Use a stable-knit fabric for the first time and
improve. Compare your slopcrs, patterns, and
gradually work through the different stretch ra-
samples with the checklist provided.
tios. It is also a good idea to sew the garment

SKIRT PROJECT #1 SKIRT PROJECT #2

The skirt should have a 1" elastic waist in a casing one
row of topstitching to prevent the elastic from coll~psing
With a patch pocket, slits on the sides and a 1"
stitched hem. • cover-
The skirt should have a 1" elastic waist in a casing , one
row of topstitc hing to prevent the elastic from collapsing,
' With a patch pocket, a drawstring on one side, and a 1·
cover-stitched hem.
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 171

SKIRT PROJECT #3 SKIRT PROJECT #4

The skirt should have a 1" elastic waist in a casing, one The skirt should have a 1" elastic waist in a casing, one
row of topstitching to prevent the elastic from collapsing, row of topstitching to prevent the elastic from collapsing,
with a patch pocket, and a 1" asymmetrical cover-stitched with a patch pocket on the back, slits on the front panel
hem. seams, and a 1" cover-stitched hem.

Create a costing sheet (see Appendix A) for any skirt style

that you create so you become familiar with the process
of costing (remember, the most important part of the gar-
ment is the price tag!) and can see how the different costs
are associated with the final price. Don't be alarmed when
your price comes out extremely high; you have purchased
your fabric at retail, and your labor costs are h1gh, also.
Remember. that in the industry, we cut garments a thou-
sand at a time; consequently, the cutting costs are greatly
reduced.
' ,, Compare your blocks, patterns, and sample
/ ',
(~ I with the checklist.
I I
I I
I I
I I
I I
I I
I I
I I
I I
I I
I I

_l :d::========
I

SKIRT PROJECT #5 . . casing. one

" I stic waist In a .
The skirt should have a 1 e a t·1c from collapstng.
. t~eeu 1 . 1
row of topstitc h1n9 to preven .t on the s1de pane
t h back as 1I
with a patc h pocket on e '
seam, and a 1" cover-stitched hem.
172 ......
..,.
CHAPiER !> SKIRTS

SKIRT SLOPERS CHECKLIST (NOT PATTERNS) w

. you , ve comp1et ed the assignment correctly.
,
Check your blocks and garments to determine 1f

,
iJ
0
Grainlines included on both front skirt and back skirt
No arrows on grainlines of slopers
Labeling in correct color (black pen or marker)
.....
-.......
Size Medium, Med, or M . t kn·t etc along the side seams
0 h r . stable kn1t madera e 1 • ·•
Labeled with all the different stretc ra lOS. ' . . block is if it's labeled)
iJ Labeled as "BLOCKS" or " SLOPERS" (the only way to tell this IS a
0 Name on blocks
0 Date on blocks

....
0 Blocks are butterfly-folded
0 Blocks cut out neatly and accurately .
0 Side seams are exactly the same shape when checkmg
0 Hip notches match exactly
0 The front skirt is Vi' larger than the back skirt

.--.
iJ No seam allowances on blocks
0 No style numbers on blocks
0 No waist on blocks
n No hem on blocks

......
0 No slits on blocks
0 Blocks on oak-tag
Blocks on pattern hooks
0 No pocket on blocks
o Costing sheet done correctly

0
0
0
SKIRT SAMPLE CHECKLIST
Check your sample to determine if you've completed the assignment correctly.
0 Serged neatly and accurately
Serged with 4-thread serger or 5-thread serger for very thick fabrics
Serged without stretching the seams
Perfect tension on the serger
..
0 All loose threads trimmed
0 Waist stitched evenly
0 Elastic tension even all the way around, not pulling sideways
0 Waist stitched in the center of sergeing, on the inside edge
0 1 row of stitching to prevent elastic from collapsing
0 Hem cover-stitched evenly
0 Hem cover-stitched at 1"
0 Hem cover-stitched before sewing slits, so the little holes are downward
0 Pocket placed correctly 2 '12" below the waist, where the waist seam should be
0 Top of pocket hemmed at 1"
0 Pocket edges turned under W'
0 Pocket edge-stitched neatly
0
Slit sewn closed for 1" to lie flat
0
Slits sewn in the center of the serge
0 Slits sewn correctly and neatly
o label sewn in the back of the garment
0 Proper hanger
0 Prea~ee~ neatl

-
- Y and handed In "store ready"!
 SKIRTS CHAPTER 5 173
SKIRT PATTERN CHECKLIST

0 Arrows on grainline of patterns, pointin in . .

0 Labeled in the correct color g one dtrectton only
0 Size Medium
0 Labeled with all the different stretch r
0 Labeled as "BLOCKS" o r "SLOP ~~ tos: stable knit , moderate knit, etc.
ERS (the only way to tell this is a block is if it's labeled)
0 Name on patterns
0 Date on patterns
0 Correct style numbers on patterns
0 Patterns are butterfly-folded
0 Patterns cut out neatly and accurately
0 The front skirt is Y2" larger than the back skirt
0 %" seam allowances on all pattern pieces, or W' if using very thick fabric
0 The waist of the pattern is labeled with the "finished" elastic measurement, the amount after the ring is
sewn closed
0 Correct waist allowance on patterns, double the elastic measurement plus W'
0 1" hem allowance on patterns for straight hems
0 Correct slits included on pattern pieces both front and back, or as required
0 Hung on pattern hooks
0 Drill marks for pocket placement
0 Pocket pattern included with all required seam and hem allowances
Pattern labeled "RIGHT SIDE UP" as required for styles with a single pocket
0
0 Hip notch
0 Notch for slit fold back
0 Costing sheet done correctly
 ......
174 CHAPTER 5 SKIRTS

...
"'...r.-...
Test Your Knowledge of the
Material in This Chapter
1. Why is the front sloper larger than the
back sloper?
2. How do you test if a skirt can be pulled on
13. How can you create a n A-line skirt with
volume at th e front?
14. What happens if you slash a nd spread the
skirt multiple times, rather than just a ..
-......
without a zipper?
3. How can you create a fitted waist for a s ingle s lash and spread?
skirt? 15. What h appens to the skirt's fla res when
4. How can you create an un-fitted waist for a you blend th e waist after slashing and
spr eading?

skirt?
5. How can you create a semi-fitted waist for
a skirt?
6. How much should you increase the waist
for light gathering?
7. How much should you increase the waist
for medium gathering?
8. How much should you increase the waist
for heavy or exaggerated gathering?
9. How can you increase the volume at the
waist of a skirt?
10. How can you prevent a patch pocket from
stretching while sewing it to a garment?
11. Why should you blend a pocket bag into a
curve, rather than squared?
12. How can you create an A-line skirt with
the volume primarily at the sides?
.....
16. What h appen s if you do not blend t h e skirt
after slashing a nd spreading t h e waist?
17. How can you coverstitch the h em of a n
asymmetrical h emmed skirt?
18. How can you increase the waist for a
slightly gath ered waist skirt?
••
.....-
19. How can you increase the fullness for a
gath ered skirt?
20. How can you create a drawstring at the
side seam of the skirt?
21. How can you create a skirt with gathers on t ill
both sides?
22. How can you create a skirt w ith gathering
on only one s ide seam?
~
iii
flil
~
 c HAPTER 6

Pants

About This Chapter

This chapter begins with the development of t h e one-way-
stretch pant sloper, and will go on to 1·11ust.r a t e some oth er
pant sty, les.h Although all these patterns ar·e 1a be1ed "one-way
stretch , t ey may be us~d interchangeably with two-way-
and four-way-stretch fabncs, because the garment does not
pass ove: the shou~d.ers and utilize any lengthwise stretch.
For maxrmum mobrhty and a tight fit, one-way-stretch gar-
ments should always be cut with the stretch going around the
body. Also note that many of the skirt details, such as pock-
ets, waistbands, and hems, may also be applied to pants.

Measurements Needed for Stable

Knit Pants
Use the measurements for the Women's stable knit draft, since
it is the largest, then indicate the other stretch ratios on the
sloper, in contrasting color markers. (For a description of the
reductions, refer to Chapter 4: Slopers and Reductions.) The
measurements given here are for the Misses size range; for
other measurements refer to Chapter 4. Also note that some
of the measurement; are rounded off for easier drafting.

Extra
Divide Extra
Standard Extra Extra Extra Extra
New by
Medium Reduce Panels Small Small Small Medium Large Large Large
by Meas.
# Meas. 33 112 37 112
4 22 '/2 23 1
/2 25'12 27'12 30 '12
O% 27'12 44 '12 48 1/2
2 Waist 27'12 4 33 1/2 34 '12 36 1/2 38'12 41'12
O% 38 112 10 1/4 10'12 10% 11 11 1/4
3 Hip 38'12 9 7/a 10
10 '12
No length reduction
20 1/a 23 23 1/4 23 112 23 3/4 24 24'/ •
4 Crotch depth 'h No length reduction
23 38 1/4 38 112 39 39 112 40 40 112 41
5 Waist to knee
39 'h No length re~uctiOn 8 7% 73/• 8 8';. 8 112 8 3/4 9
6 Waist to ankle 14 7/a
8'/. O% 8/4 13 1/a 13% 13 7/a 14 % 15% 15'1a
7 Ankle 4 ~ 8
14 % O% 14 • 2 2 1/a 2 1/4 2% 2% 2% 3
8 Knee One-quarter of hip measurement 2 3/4 2 7/a 3 3'/• 3'12 3% 4
9 Front crotch One-third of hip measurement . 1 1'/• 1'/4 1 '/• 1% 1 '12
1
10 Back crotch One-half of front crotch extension
11 Crotch angle

175
176 ~~H·\f'HR 6 PANTS

ONE-WAY-STRETCH SLOPER FRONT

TI11s d1aft will use the measurements from the reduction

chart in Chapter 2, and the appropriate reductions for
each fabric.
A-8 = waist measurement {#2 from chart).
A-C = crotch depth squared down {#4 from chart).
C-D = hip measurement squared across {#3 from chart).
D-E = square a temporary guideline straight up to the waist.
E-D = divide line into thirds.

Since the front will be drafted on top of the back, the measurements need to be divided into four.

Extra Extra Extra Extra

# Extra Small Small Small Medium Large Large Extra Large

2 'I• of waist 5% 5 7la 6% 6 7la 7% 8% 9%

3 'I• of hlp 8% 8% 9'1a 9% 10% 11'1s 12 '1s
4 Crotch depth 10 'Iz 10 % 10 '1s 10 % 10 71s 11 1/s 11 %
5 Waist to knee 22 7/s 23 22 7/s 23 23 '/. 23'12 23 3/•
6 Waist to ankle 38 1/4 38'1z 38'1• 38 '12 39 39 112 40
7 'I• of ankle 22 7ls 23 23 1/4 23 1/z 23% 24 24 '1·
8 'I• of knee 38 1/4 38 '12 39 39 11z 40 40 112 41
9 Front crotch 13 1/s 13 % 13% 14 % 14 7/s 15 % 15 7/a
10 Back crotch 2 '1a 2 1/a 2% 2% 2% 2% 3
11 Crotch angle 2% 2 71a 3 3% 3% 3% 4
'h of crotch depth 3 '/z 3'/z 3 1/ z 3 3.• 4
3 1/z 3% 3%

tJ_ 'U
B

E-G = two-thirds of E-D and d

a variform curve, placing #4 of ~~w a curved hip line using
Note: For cust
the hip curve, blending into the s~ ruler at the waist. Draw om garments, draw the hip curve to the
hig h er mark toe
curve may change dependi e seam. Note the hlp • nsure that the hip is large enough to fit
ng on your target market. any customer d
• an correct the hip shape in fitting.
Do not fuss
and any exc~~er ~he hip shape, since it may be correctecl.
8 8 mply 8erged off after fitting the~-
 PANTS CHAPTER 6 177

r-r.
~
s•

C-H = one-quarter of hip measurement C-D {#9 from chart).

1-J-H = draw a smooth blended crotch curve.
C-1 = one-quarter of hip measurement (#9 from chart).
At C draw a 45-degree angle and label as J .
C-J = one-half of C-H {#11 from chart).

K
half-way
w
-'
>::
z<(
1
0 "-L---~----- - - 11 ~ALF-WAY
f- GUIDELINE
II
tn
•
I
~

•
Ia
L
Draw a guideline halfway between K and M.

• K = halfway between D and H .

.
K = square up to wa1st and Ia
bel as the grainline.
t
The knee line is 1" above the guideline; label as N.

. locate
(Be care f u,I as there is a tendency to incorrectly
"'• M-L = square down from the wals
. t to ankle measure men
haIf-way between the waist and ankle, when 1t should be
the crotch to ankle.)

•
{#6 from chart) .

~ Extra Extra

•
if,
Extra
Extra small
Extra
small
2'1•
small
2 1/•
Medium
2%
Large
2%
1'/•
Large
23;,
1"1o
Extra Large
3
1 1 /2

.
2 1 '/• 1'/•
Front Crotch extension 1 14
iJ Crotc h angle
1
10 7/o 11 % 12 13
6 'h 7
15 'to
7'h
10'/2 55/7 6
D-H 5% 39'12 40 40 '12 41

•
5 '1• 38 1h
39
Halfway 13% 13'12 13% 13314 13 7/e
38 '/• 13 '/•
Wa1st to ankle
Wa1st to knee
--~
 11$ HArTER 6 PANTS

1/ 1i
r

IX.
I >

p N I 0

R L 0

N-0 = one-quarter of the knee measurement (#8 from L-Q = one-quarter of the ankle measurement (#7 from
chart). chart).

N-P = one-quarter of the knee measurement (#8 from L-R = one-quarter of the ankle measurement (#7 from
chart). chart).

Extra Extra Extra Extra

Extra Small Small Small M ediu m L arge Large Ex tra Large
Total Knee 13 1/s 13 % 13 7/s 14 % 14 7/s 15 % 15 7/s
Quarter of knee 3 2/7 3 1/ 3 3 1/2 3% 3s;, 3% 4
Total Ankle 7% 7% 8
Quarter of ankle
8'1· 8 '12 8% 9
2 2 2 2 2 '/s 2 1/s 2''

R Q
L
Connect H 0 ·
- In a straight line
Connect 0 Q . ·
- In a straight line Blend the hips and kn .
Connect Q A.1 · ee Into smooth curves, as illustrated
- n a straight line
Connect 0 P . ·
Con - In a straight line.
nett P-R In
a straight II ne.
 PANTS CHAPTER 6 179
PANT SLOPER BACK

r
c-s one-third of hip measurement (#
10
S.nce you've already add e d the f from chart)·
amount because you are d f . ront crotch amou 1
. ra ling the front on t n ' only add the additional
0
Connect S-0 1n a straight r P of the back
front inseam, and will be lne (note that the back i . ·
corrected later on) nseam IS longer than the
Blend a smooth curve at O. ·

Extra Extra Extra Extra

Extra Small Small Small Medium Large Large Extra Large
Back crotch extension 2% 2 7/o 4
3 3'/• 3 '12 3%
Additional amount 3;, % '/. ';. 'I• 'lo

318"1!;·•=::: · · 3/4"
3/8",1; · • ==::··it314" E B A
E B A

0
Remove '/4'' from the back side seam.
You must raise the back of the waist to allow room for
Add '/.'' to the front side seam.
sitting and bending. Skirts do not need this because they
can easily slide up, whereas pants are anchored at the Re-notch.
crotch . This way the front is larger than the back so that when you
view it straight on. you can't see the side seams because
Raise the side seams%".
they are slightly toward the back.
3
Raise the center back /•" .

Do not change the center front height.

 180 HAf'T R 6 PANTS

TRUEING THE PANT SLOPERS
Trace out and separate the front and back pant
slopers.
Place the front sieper on top of the back sieper and
match the s1de seams to make sure they are exactly
the same.
Check notches at h1ps and knees.
Place the inseams together the way they w1ll be when they are
finally sewn, beside each other.
Ensure that the crotch is blended into a smooth and continuous
curve; it should need a slight blend, because the back inseam is
slightly longer than the front inseam (about 1/s') and must be cor-
rected so the seams match each other perfectly.
Check that inseam knee notches match exactly, and that both of
the inseams are exactly the same length.
Make sure that the hem lines up exactly, in a smooth continuous line.

3 4

Label your slopers correctly-indicating whether

they are the front piece or the back piece.

Also label the slopers with the type of stretch· "one-

way stretch." ·

The size must also be labeled.

Label with your name and the d t If you've drafted stable knit slopers, you can save yourself the
a e created. trouble of drafting the other sloper ratios if you indicate them with
Never place any arrows on the grainlines. lines as illustrated.

This saves save oak-tag, and allows you to carry a single sieper
rather than multiple sets. The differences between the slopers
must be equalized on both sides of the grainline.
Also note the illustration is exaggerated for clarity.
 PANTS CHAPTER 6 181

Stable knit Stretchy

;:;:::=---___;_..::.::.:.:.~~. ~Moderate knit
Super-stretch
Wa~st 0 knit Rib knit
Hip O 'Ia 1
Out-seam
- 116 -'Ia
0 -'Ia 1 1
- 116 - /s
In-seam 0 'Ia 1
1
/16 'Ia
1a 1
116 'Ia

To
. check and correct the gram . 11ne
.
of pant f0 1
1n half, then crease your paper all th s, d the calf portion of the leg
grain line. e way to the waist. This will be your new

Seam Allowances For Pants

The seam allowances needed depend on the type of fabric used
and equipment used.

Use 1/2'' seam allowances 5-thread serger for very thick fabrics
For stable knits such 4-thread serger for normal knit fabrics
as fleece and Polarfleece® or 3/s"
If the st able knit fabric is really thick, then use •;," seam al-
lowances, because a smaller serging will not catch enough of
the fabric edge to secure the seam.
Five-thread serging may be approximated by using a three-
thread serger and a straight stitch.
Use 3/s" seam allowances 4-thread serger
For stretchy knits Use %" seam allowances 4-thread serger
For moderate knits, such as T-shirt knits
't ch as spandex Use \14" seam allowances 3-thread serger
For super-stretch km s, su
and 4-way stretch Use 1/4" seam allowances 3-thread serger

For rib knits

d 1/:"
2
for curved hems.
Use 1" for straight hems an
 18: CHAPTER 6 PANTS ......
......
-..
ADDING SEAM ALLOWANCES TO PANTS
Illustrated with %" seam allowances, for stable knits such
as fleece for use with a four-thread serger.
Always label the waist of the pant with the finished (already
sewn) elastic measurement.
...
Square down a hem allowance of 1".

•
•..
STYLE# 1001 STYLE# 1001
Extend the waist up 1 'h'' plus and other 1'h", total 3" for the
SWEAT PANT SWEAT PANT
BACK FRONT elastic casing.
MED MED

..-..
CUT2 CUT2 For 'h'' elastic, reduce by 2".
For elastic over 1" wide, reduce the measurement by 1".
For elastic under 1" wide, reduce the measurement by 2" .
Remember to add seam allowances to the ends of the
elastic.

-••
3/8"
You don't always know what type of equipment will be
used to apply the elastic, especially if the garment will be
produced offshore, so you must always label the waist with
the finished (already sewn) elastic measurements, including
the w idth of the elastic.

ONE-WAY-STRETCH PANT SILHOU-
ETTE VARIATIONS
Create a stovepipe leg from the one-
way-stretch pant sloper by widening
the legs as illustrated.
Make the same changes to both sides
of the legs. Whatever you do to one
leg seam must be duplicated for the
other.
--..
...-.
....
Create a bell-bottom from the one-
way-stretch pant sloper by widening
Create a palazzo from the one-way-
stretch pant sloper by widening the
..
the legs as illustrated. legs as illustrated.
Make the same changes to both sides Make the same changes to both sides
of the legs. Whatever you do to one of the legs. Whatever you do to one
leg seam must be duplicated for the leg seam must be duplicated for the
other leg seam.
other leg seam.
 PANTS CHAPTER 6 183

hot pants __ ./ ~.. 1/2.::--

1,.2~ , - -._-- ----~~t-~nts
·-_-_-_-_-_-_·_~-~-~hq~~- ---
JamaiCa
-------------------- ------!~maiCa
bermuda
bermuda
_ knee _
- knee _
-~~-C!'.I?~~~-~r:. -~3~~-~~~~-E!_rs_
toreador
toreador

capn capn

ankle ankle

: /~t'rru~\.,:
·--· :.:

One-Way-Stretch Pant and Waist Volume

Shorts Length Variations Create a fitted, semi-fitted , or unfitted waist
finish for any pa nt style.
Create any style of sh ort from the Create unfitted by squa ring a line up to the
one-way-stretch pant sloper. waist leveL
Create semi-fitted by finding the middle
of the fitted and unfitted and drawing a new
curved hip.

!
=
-..
~

--
-=Cover-Stitched Waist Elastic
To create a cover-stitched wai~~: the height of the
Extend the waistband dou e
elastic. .
At the sides and end of the waist casing,
square down from the top line.
This waist does not need any seam al-
lowances at the top because the elastic will
be serged to the raw edge of the waist.
Illustrated at 2" for 1" elastic.
~ 84 CH APTER 6 PANTS
E ONE-WAY-STRETCH PANT
.. -- ... ·- - ·····---
Serged-On Waistband
This waistband is a separate pattern piece.
This waistband will be folded in h alf a nd
serged to the pants.
Measure twice the width of t he elastic, and
the length of the total waist measurement.
The waist and waistband will need seam al-
lowances so they can be serged together. This
style should also have elastic inserted into the
waistband.
notches
PANTS WITH DRAWSTRING ELASTIC
To create a drawstring waist:
:~~t::~~~:;~e the height of the casing (above the waist)
e measurement to allow for the foldo
Not h h
to P~ ~r~:~~~ front to create an opening for the string
I1 RIBBED WAISTBAND
. . . CUT1
Ribbed Waistband
The ribbed waistband is a separate pattern
piece.
The ribbing mu st be reduced in length to
pull in t he waist.
The waistband should h ave only one seam,
placed at one of the sides (u su a lly the left side),
center back, or center front , if a drawstring is
also inserted .
The rib should be one-sixth smaller than
the rib waist measurement .
This waistba nd will be folded in half and
serged to t h e pants.
The waist a nd waistba nd will need seam al-
lowances so they can be ser ged together.
This style can also h ave elastic inserted into
the waistband, or a n a ddit iona l drawstring.
ver.
 PANTS CHAPTER 6 185

edgo-stltch

DRAWSTRING WAIST CASING

For drawstring
"
elastic, replace the front notc h With
. two
notches 112 apart to create an opening fo th d .
pass through . r e rawstnng to

When sewing ,. s kip over the area between the ooc~~t h
create a hole 1n front for the string to pass through .
WAIST WITH ELASTIC GATHERS
To create a waist with gathered elastiC, extend the wa1st
and square down to the side seams.
This style will create a small amount of gathering at the
waist. (For more on gathering, see further in the chapter.)
This waist can have any of the elastic treatments-chan-
nel, or serged-on elastic, drawstring, or separate
waistband.

2 112" l

Find the center of the waist on that line and measure out
2112" in each direction, to make a pocket that is 5" wide.
PATCH POCKETS . y be placed at The pocket needs to be placed at the center of the waist-
Measure down 2'12' from the waist (but II ma line area, not the center of the hip, or it will appear to be
any level the designer wishes). falling into the hip.
 '1$6 ('HAPTER 6 PANTS

1,_ I
'-
5
-s·
• '--T-----''
jl

I
I
I

Draw the pocket 5" down Mark the drill holes 'r4' down,
and · 1n from the pocket edge Add seam aII owan C es and label the pattern.
. This pattern
" is
labeled L.S.O. for a pocket on the "Left Sode Only.

1" hem allowance

1• ~em al~':"-~~~- _

PATCH POCKET
PATCH POCKET MED
MED CUT 1
CUT1

I. l 1
......... !
1/2"

Add V< seam allowances to the sides of the pocket and 1" For an angled pocket, measure down %" at the center of
hem to the top of the pocket. the pocket and redraw.

1" hem allowance

1~ hem allowance
........ --------------.
' I
PATCH POCKET
MED
•: CUT1

1 '
Add 'I•" seam allowances to the sides of the pocket and 1"
'I
hem to the top of the pocket. To prevent the pocket from stretching out when sewing
across the bottom, serge '/.'' twill tape to the bottom edge. I
If the fabric stretches in both directions, it may be neces-
sary to serge twill tape to the sides also.
•
•
•
•
•
''
'
 PANTS CHAPTER 6

3"

ANGLED WELT ZIPPER POCKETS

Place the pocket wherever the designer wishes.

Or use this guideline.
Make the pocket 6" wide for Medium customers.

Make the pocket 11 " deep from the waist and at least 5" Blend the pocket bag into a curve for easier construction.
wide. You do not have to pivot at the corners and can simply
serge all the way around in one easy step.
Draw the welts 1/4" wide by the entire length of the poc ket.

!w elt cut 41

Trace and separate all the pocket pattern pieces.

. to the lower welt, and
Note that the lower pocket Will sew ell therefore the
the upper pocket will sew to the upper w ' ket
h the lower poe ·
upper pocket is 1/2" larger 1 an
~88 CHAPTER 6 PANTS

2 112"1
-
s· centered
-~-----t-
2 1'2" 1~-
0
ll4.
0

DOUBLE WELT BACK POCKETS

\ Mark the drill ho les W' in from the ends o f the pocket.

Measure down from the wa1st 2' 1' •

Make the pocket 5• Wide.

Place II centered tl on the watsl of the pant; do not center it
on the hipline.

114" welts
E3

Draw the welts 'f, above and below the drill hole (cutting) Draft the p ocket b ag 5" down from the drill hole
line
(cutting) line.

The lower POcket ba

tom of the pocket b g goes from the cutting line to the bot-
ag.
Trace out and separate the pocket bags.
The upper bag goes from
bottom. the top of the Waist to the Draft the welts 1" wide; they will fold in half and sew with a
'! .'' seam allowance and 6" long.
Or, curve the POcket b
tor does not h ags for easier assembly Th
ave to p1vot the pock t . · e opera-
a Pteces.
 PANTS CHAPTER 6 189

STYLE #6-001 WIDE-LEG PANTS

2 1/2" 2 1/2" 2 1/2" 2 112"
Wide-leg. pants
. are very easy to draft, b ecause all you
To create a wide-leg pant, square up from the hem to the
must do 1s Increase the width of the leg at the ankle.
front crotch, approximately 2'12'' to 3".
Increase the back leg, ankle width an equal amount to
the front, and blend the back inseam at the crotch, as
illustrated.

To create a bell-bottom style:

STYLE #6-002 BELL-BOTTOMS
Note that the width and placement of the bell-bottom is up
Bell-bottom pants are easy to create, and the flare may be
to the individual designer.
placed as high or as low as the designer wishes. The flare
Keep all measurements the same, and square the side
can also be as wide as the designer wishes.
seam at the hem.
The designer may want the flare to start higher or lower
than illustrated, or want the flare to be wider or narrower
than illustrated.
Any variation may be created as long as all four flare
heights and widths are equal to maintain balance and a
correct grain.
i~O ~ H I TDl 6 PANTS

STIRRUP PANT
STIRRUP PANT
FRONT
BACK
MED MED
CUT2
CUT2

5/8" 5/8"

1314"!ur\J 13/4"lur\J
1" 1"

To create a pant with a stirrup:

STYLE #6-003 STIRRUP PANTS
St1rrup pants. once very popular, are easy to create
by mak1ng small straps that extend under the foot.
Add seam allowances to the stirrup curved edges depending on
the type of finish required.
Remember to add seam allowances to the ends (underneath the
foot).
Elasti c = %"seam allowance.
Cover-stitched hem = '12'' seam allowance.

2"1 !~~~~-the waist 2" J 2"

·-........ • 1.~:"'-~~!~e -~!'_i~! j2,

W
~ -gw~~ .0 :0

STYLE #6-004 HIP HU

- GGERS
Hip-huggers, or low-rise pants Lower the waist the desired amount.
Simply lowering the wa· t • may be created by
to ensure that you d IS . Measure the dress-to Elastic measurement shoul
o not make th rm customer, at th d be calculated from the Judy. or the
em too low. e new lower waist
1" smaller than the .
measurement 0 f
The designe where the elastic will lie.
tr r may lower the ·
ont and back are equal watst any amount, as long as the
more than 1" Wide) is and the elastic reduction of 1" (for elastiC
made at the new lowered waist.
 PANTS CHAPTER 6 191

To create an elastic casing f

or a lowered waist·
Ra1se the waist double the w·dth
1 ·
of the elastic d
smaII er than the new lowered . an calculate the elastic length as 1"
wa1st on the d
ress-form (for elastic that is 1" or larger).

LJ LJ
STYLE #6-005 PANTS WITH PRINCESS Draw a line dividing the sloper in half, or even toward
SEAMS the sides if required.

Princess or panel seams may be added Notch the sections for easy construction.
to pants as a design detail or for color
blocking.

The pant may be created with separate pieces for the front and back. total-
STYLE #6-006 PANTS WITH SIDE-
ing four pieces.
SEAM STRIPES
ated without
Side-seam stripes can be ere .
any side seam, but instead the stnpe
should be drafted as one piece.
192 CHAPTER 6 PANTS

The stnpe will not have a seam through the middle, but The new draft should look like the illustration and has
instead may be drafted as one single straight piece. three pieces rather than four.

The stnpe will be drafted straight instead of curved to save

fabnc when cutting the garment out.
From the front side seam of the sloper, remove half the
amount of the stripe.
Repeat for the back.

Draft the stnpe separately the length of the new side

seams, the w1dth of the total that was removed from the
original.

Keep the hem stra1ght and measure upwards the length of

the seams that will be sewn together.

STYLE #6-008 PEGGED-WAIST PANTS

Pegged-waist pant Slash and spread to create pants that are gathered at the
may be drafted wit~·n:r~':~ with fullness at the waist, top and remain narrow at the bottom.
ems.
 PANTS CHAPTER 6 193

~1ttsh and spread

slash and
~d blend blond

.--.
--.. Slash the draft down th e center gra· 1·
amount desired.

Gathenng
Increase by
Light
50%
In me and spread any

Medium
100%
Heavy
200%
Alsofront.
the note that you create pants that are only gathered at

Blend a new waist.

•• ·.'ii'¥.'~-~;,_O}_~!~-~¥~~!;;~~;;r?

!- :.:

.•. PEGGED WAIST

PANTS BACK

CUT2
MED
PEGGED WAIST
PANTS FRONT
MED
CUT2

•-,.
i Indicate gathering on the pattern. with dashed lines as indicated.
You can also reduce the hem by 1/2'' on each side to make an even narrower

:
hem, but check to make sure that the fabric stretches enough to get a foot
through, otherwise you have to insert an invisible zipper.

~
i
·~----------------------------------------

1~4 HAPT H 6 PANTS

----- -----
slash and slash and
spread spread

STYLE #6-009 PALAZZO PANTS Slash and spread the hem of the pants any amount
Palazzo or extreme w1de-leg pants can be created by desired.
enlarg1ng the hem volume of the pant sloper.
Fullness light Medium Heavy
Increase by 50% 100% 200%

_ blend

PALAZZO PANT PALAZZO PANT

BACK FRONT
MED MED
CUT2 CUT2

j j
Sthtralghten out the Side seams by connecting the hem to
e crotch w1th a straight line. Label the pants as indicated.

Connect the hem to the hlp with a straight line.

 PANTS C HAPTER 6 195

HAREM PANTS
Harem pants may be created by gathenng the hem and
Harem pants are created exactly like palazzo pants. ex- addmg a ribbed cuff to the bottoms.
cept that a narrow cuff 1s added to the bottom to pull the
pants 1n.

PALAZZO PANT PALAZZO PANT

BACK FRONT
MED MED
CUT2 CUT2

gather to cuff
measurement

CUFF CUT 2.

f the ong•nal pant and 4" h1gh to fold into a 2" cuff.
Draft a cuff the lengt h o
196 CHAPTER 6 PANTS

STYLE #6010 COWL-DRAPED PANTS Pant s may be created with cowls at the side seams by fol-
lowing these instructions.
Cowl-draped pants are created by slashing and spreading
the side seams of the pants.

COWL PANTS COWL PANTS

BACK FRONT
MED MED
CUT2 CUT 2

Slash and spread th .

larger spreads for the sbectlons as required, often with
e ottom section T Bend the knee, add a grainline, and label your pants
then 8" then 10... s. ry spreading 6" pattern.
Blend a new side seam.
When sewn, these patterns will fall into soft folds.
 PANTS CHAPTER 6 197

2"1 - J2" 2"1- - J2"

CYCLING SHORTS

This draft for cycling shorts also shows how to draft the
chamoiS piece-another layer to protect the rider's crotch
It can be made of self- or chamois suede, and is top-
stitched to the inside of the shorts.
· Draw a guideline 2" above the knee notch.
Draw vertical lines indicated the center of the panel, for
panel seams.

db\ \~

Notch and trace out all the pieces for the final pattern.
Draw the chamois 4" above the crotch seam and 3" below,
make sure to square at the center front and back. The chamois should be sewn into the inside of the shorts
after the crotch seams have been shown.

/ notch for pin tucks ""-.

1

SKI PANT SKI PANT

BACK FRONT
MED MED
CUT2 CUT2

te ski pants with a pin tuck down the front, simply straighten out the in-
To crea d tseam as straight lines from h1p to ankle and crotch to ankle.
SKI PANTS seam an ou
the waist and hem to Indicate where to sew the pin tuck.
Place a noteh at
198 CHAPTER 6 PANTS

112' _. 112"
1'1 -~---- 1-:,, _1 1'

=
...
•.
BOOTY SHORTS
Short shorts or booty shorts can be
...
.•
created from the basic pant sloper.
Draw the hem 1 .. down from the crotch.

...
....
j Shape the hem by raising it '/i' at
the front and lowering it 'h" at the
back.

....
ill

....
Wrap shorts are created without any S1de
.
1" 1"

seams. They simply wrap back ,.

,.
WRAP SHORTS over the front to give complete coverage.
Extend each side seam by 1". ~

(Ill

SHORT
SHORT
,.,.
~
~

,.,.,.
BACKMED
CUT2

Blend a new hem and side seam into a curved line.

!
Notch the placement of the side seams for construction.
The hem and side seam should be bound with the collar-
etta, and can remain open, or stitched down for modeStY·
 PANTS C HAPTER 6 199

,..
•
-
••
I
I
I
•
I
KNICKERS WITH RIBBED CUFFS
Knickers with a ribbed cuff should be drafted by tracing the upper part of
the sloper in that stretch ratio, and the lower portion should be traced from
the rib sloper.
I
Place the seam 2" below the knee, or any amount the design requires.
I
I

,
I

KNICKERS FRONT
MEO
CUT 2 SELF

Trace and label the pattern as

Blend the curve.
Divide the top portion and the lower indicated.
u trace the stable knit for the
portion. If yo rt"on you must reduce the Label the knee seam with gather-
lower po 1 •
Slash and spread the upper portion ~
0 ing lines, and indicate how much to
lower pert 1 ·on 3/4'' as indicated.
gather to.
increase the vol ume at the knee leve . t ace the rib ratio for the
If you r . . nore.
Spread as much as the design lower port1on, 1g
requires.

---------------------::::.~m~ Heavy
Gathering Light Medlu 200%
Increase by 5~
 200 CHAPTER 6 PANTS

•
11
I

•
I
I
PALLAZZO PANT
BACK
PALLAZZO PANT
FRONT I
MED
CUT2
MED
CUT2 I
I

gather ·,·:.
..
......:·.:·:::.:·:. ::::::. :
I
....
KNICKERS WITH LEG TIES
Cut out the outseam as indicated and b ind with the col-
larette to create ties.
••
••
Knickers may be created with ties on the sides by follow -
ing these instructions.

Test Your Knowledge of the ••

Material in This Chapter
••
1. How might you draft a one-way-stretch
sloper for a personal sloper?
2. Should you try to draw an exact hip curve
5. How much smaller should the waist
elastic be?
••
for custom pants?
3. What color should you label your Medium
6. When creating a lowered-waist pant, how
big should the elastic be? ••
..•.
7. How can you prevent the elastic from col-

slopers?
4. How should you indicate the elastic mea-
surement on the pants pattern?
•
lapsing, or folding over, on t he wearer?
8. How much seam a llowance should be used
on the waist when creating pants with a

._..-
serged-on elastic?

ln~seam
Project #1
pockets

Design and create a pair of pants using the patternmaking principles

from this chapter.

,.,.,.
fill
Use any pant silhouette that you wish-wide leg, narrow leg, flared,
or bell-bottom.
The pants must have an elastic casing waist finish, serged to
the ~aw edge and folded over and cover-stitched' or have drawstring
elastic.
Must have two pockets, which may be the same or different styles.
Must have a cover-stitched hem.
 c H A p Tr-cE::----;:::R:------=7- - - -

Tops
About This Ch apter
Tops are a huge 0 .
outsell bottoms p rtion of the fash·
new top for a s~:U~~ts, and ~kirts. ~~~s~~arketpl.ace. They far

.....
new pants or a d ay evemng, but m mer Will often buy a
This chapterrd~ss as easily. ay not want to purchase
1scusses t
on t h e top portion of ops as any garme
tnt~

--
clarity, later chapt the body, including that are worn
and dresses, whichers ~ill discuss sweateran top.s, but for
noted here rna b are. JUSt longer tops M s, oversized tops,
Th. h y e apphed to t hem . any of the details
IS c apter begins with .
~;e~:=~~~{re~ch .top sloper s a~: :~:=l~p~endtof t he different

••
ow1ng. n o evelop patterns

Crew-neck T-shirt
V-neck T-sh irt
Mock-ne ck T-s hirt

..:
Raglan-sleeve d T-shirt
Mock-neck top
Boatneck top
Cowl-neck top
Oversized T-shirt

One-Way-Stretch Top Sloper

This sloper will be developed on th e fold, with the front on top
of the back. The sloper should a lso be cut out full, total, folded,
and butterftied on oak-tag to assist in the creation of asym-
metrica l designs. Also, this sloper will be developed in size
Medium (Misses), for stable knits, and will draw in the dif-
ferent stretch ratios. If you wish to develop a personal sloper,
substitute your personal measurements with those listed as
"standard size " and make the appropriate reductions. Use
the one-way-st~etch sloper even when using four-way-stretch
fabrics. Because there is nothing holding the length stretch
down and anchoring it, the fabric will behave like a one-way-

stretch anyway.
201
 STABLE-KNIT TOP REDUCTIONS
Zero percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction. --- /;)
Use these measurements w hen drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 0% to 25%. - 0
/.)
# Standard
Medium Reduce
Divide Extra - -- -
New by Extra %

1 Bust
Measurements by Measurement panels Small
Extra
Small Small Medium
Extra
Extra
Extra
,>
-i
35 '12 0% 35'12 Large Large m
4 30 '12 Large
31 112
2 Waist
3 Hip
27 '12
35 '12
0%
0%
27 '12 4 22 '12 23'12
33'1;
25'12
35'12
27'12
38 '12 41 1/o 45 •12 "
....
36'12 4 30 '12 30'12 -i
4 Crotch depth 31'12 33'12 33 '12 0
10 '12 No length reduction 35'12
9 7/a 10 38 '12 41';, "C
12 Nape to waist 48 ';,
13 Back neck
16% No length reduction
15% 15 7/a
10'1•
16 '1a
10 12 1
10 314 11 11 71a
"'
2 '12 No length reduction 16 71a 17 '1a
14 Back neck rise 2% 2% 17 71a 18 '1a
'l'a No length reduction 2'1, 2 '1,
3;.1 2 '12 2 71a
15 Shoulder 3;.i 'Ia 7 2/a
6 No length reduction /a 'Ia
5 5 1/a 'Ia /a
16 Across back 7 '12 5'12 6
0% 7'12 N/A 6 '12 7
18 Shoulder pitch 6 7/a 7 5'1.
1 '12 7'1• 7'12 73/,
No length reduction 8
1% 1% 8%
1'12 1 '12 1 '1, 1 71s 1'/,

l)llJJJIJ I l l I 1111· ··-··-··-•-•~•:_e~:_•~•.:_•~·- •· •· •· •- •·•-•·•· •-

 TOPS CHAPTER 7 203

----~A
- - -- --io

------ c

_J.
ONE-WAY-STRETCH TOP SLOPER
A-D
. - 1'12:" shoulder drop (#18 from chart) and square a
Select the draft with the stret h . I1ne across.
the size needed, from one f ~h ratio of your fabric, and
o e previous charts.
A-B = nape to waist (#12 from chart).
A-C = halfway between A and B.
A, B, C = square out lines.

A A
- - -- -lJ..-=-'E D ---~E:..JD

- - - -- -lc - - - ---lc

B
- - - -- - - ' B

E-F = back neck ri se (#14 from chart).

D-E = back neck (#13 from chart), square up.

Since the front w ill be drafted on top of the back, the measurements need to be divided into four.
Extra Extra
Ex tra Extra Large l arge Extra large
Small Medium
Extra small small
# 6% 6 71• 7% 8% 9%
5% 5 71• 9% 10% 11 'Is 12'1•
2 '!. of waist 8% 9'1•
8% 10% 10 71s 11 'Is 11 %
3 'I• of hip 10% 10'1•
10 1/2 3 112 3% 331· 3'1.
4 Crotch depth 3 '/2 3 '12
3 '12 16 71• 17 1/s 17 71s 18 1/s
% of crotch depth 16 '1•
15'1• 8 '12 8% 9 9
15% 8
12 Nape to waist 8 2 '12 2 7/o 2 71o
7 31• 2'/2 2 '12
12-b Half-way
2%
2%
'I• 'I• 'I• 'I• 'lo
13 Bac k neck 3j, 31• 1 112 1 '12 1% 1%
1 '/2
14 Nec k rise 1% 1%
18 Shoulder p itch ~
 HAPTER 7 TOPS

1 2

I squmo tor ·~·

- ----- s ~~\~.. --·-
··-· :_· · ~-
\ A
E
l
D

F-G shou der er>gt #15 from chart Take your ruler and line it up from pomt F to wherever that
measurement of the shoulder length lines up on line D.
Draw 1n the shoulder line.

- +-..,----,--., A
3 4
- ::+----j o

•
i.!l
il
H
iii
il
II
-----~ B
B
iii

....
iii

Draw tn neckline as Illustrated.

C- 1 = bust measurement (#1 from the chart). ti
Square for at F square to the shoulder ltne.
Square for '• · at A, square to the center line.
H- J = '12'' on bias angle of 45 degrees. ti
Draw the line by hand, since there is no curve that per-
L = halfway between K and H. ti
G = square a line for at least '12'' just a little past the arm- (I
fectly replicates the curve, and then use you r curves to
smooth it out and neaten t! up. hole line.
..
C-H = across back (#16 from chart), square up to shoul-
der, wherever it lands. Does not necessarily match with
point G.
..
II
Extra
Extra Small
Extra
Small Small Medium
Extra Extra ''
'
Shoulder length Large Large Extra Large
5 5 1/e
Across back 5 '12

-'
6'1. 7 6 6 '12
Bust 7 '1• 7 7'12
30 '12 7 112 7%
'I• of bust 31 '12 33'12 8 8%
7 7/e 7'1• 35 '12 38 '12
8% 8%
41 '12 45'12
9% 10% 11%
 TOPS C H APTER 7 205

-4----r"~--, A
---,Oif'----=--'-1 0

M
----1---~e

N;
··--- - --------- 0
N L __ _ _..JO
G-L-J-1 = draw armhole curve as
ous curved line. a smooth and continu- 1-M-N-0-B = connect with a straight line, as an unfitted
line.
B-M = bust (#1 from chart).
F- D = draw front neck from center front. Remember to
B-0 = crotch dep th (#4 from c hart). square to the shoulder for 'h" at both F and D to square to
0 -N = hip (#3 from chart). the center front a point at D.

K-L = '!<''.
A
G-J-L-1 = draw front armhole. D
Smooth out the front armhole curve.

Because the sleeve will be drafted on the fold with no difference between
the front and back of the sleeve curves , you must compensate for the differ-
c
ence in the body. The front armhole is '!<'' narrower than the back armhole.
This is so you don't have any armhole notches on the sleeve, which will cre-
ate holes when using such small seam allowances, and is only suitable for
knit fabrics because they will stretch to accommodate.
B
Note that many T-shirt manufacturers do not bother to take in the front arm-
hole at all, and simply create a wider back armhole for both the front of the
T-shirt and the back.

Notch waist at side seam.

N L __ _ _..J o
Trace and separate front and back.

M-N = divide into thirds.

Extra Extra
Extra Small
small

7'/s 7'/s
Bust 10
Crotch depth 9 71•
34'/2
33 1/ 2
Hip
a% 8~ffl·--------~~--------~~-----------------------------------
'12 of hip
r
H PTER 7 TOPS

F
A A
E
D D

H
c c

: ~ Q•J'
B

For the f1tted wa1st:

NLJo R

N
' - -- - - 0

s-R = draw in the hip curve lining up #4 on the variform

B-S wa 1st measurement 't #2 from chart). curve to point S.

The hip curve may change depending on your target

market.

Note: This waist may be too tight and too severe for many iJ
tops.

F 1-S-R-N = draw a new curved side seam connecting the

E
A point and blending the curves. Blend the waist at the side
D seam into a curved line.

'c

N.__ _ ___,o

For a semi-fitted wa1st , draw a line hallway between the

extremely fitted and the straight, unfitted waists.

Extra Extra
Extra Small Small Extra Extra
Small Medium
Crotch depth Large Large Extra Large
9 7/a 10
'13 Crotch depth 10'/, 10 1/2
3 '/• 3% 10'1. 11 11 '/•
Waist 3% 3'12
22 '!. 23 '!. 3 7/a 3 7/a 33/•
'/. of waist 25 '12 27 1/2
5 7/a 5 7/a 30'12 33'12 37 '/2
6% 6 '1a 7 7/a 8% 9%
 TOPS CHAPTER 7 207

1
CF
2
TOP
BLOCK TOP
BACK BLOCK
MED FRONT
(date)
MEO
(date)

TOP
BLOCK
Trace and separate the front a d FRONT
n the back top slopers.
MEO
(date)

Trueing the one-way-stretch top slopers.

Place the shoulder seams together, as if they had been
sewn and pressed open.
3 Blend a smooth armhole in a continuous line.
CB CF
Blend a smooth neck in a continuous line.
Check to make sure that the shoulders are exactly the
same length.
TOP TOP
SLOPER SLOPER
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(date) (date)
4

true the hem

Place the side seams together, beside each other, as if

they had been sewn.
TOP
Check to ensure that the side seams are exactly the same SLOPER
FRONT
length and that the waist notches match exactly. MED
(date)
Blend the armhole in a s mooth continuous line.

Make sure the hem is a straight line.

Make sure to correct the armhole, if needed, before draft-
ing the sleeve.

Place the paper draft on folded oak-tag.

Glue, tape, or staple into place.
Cut out all the layers at the same time.
Do not try to cut open and then fold; the edges will never
line up.
 zos CHAPTER 7 TOPS

STABLE
KNIT
TOP
BLOCK
BACK
MED
(date)

""
""
Sloper Labeling ''
FITTED WAIST

The fitted waist should be cut out since it is much easier

to create the unf1tted and semi-fitted waist from the fitted
The shoulder seam isn't reduced because it will have twill
tape (shoulder stay) applied and will not stretch.
SEMI-FITTED WAIST
-
fl
fl
•
sloper, but more difficult to do the reverse.
The semi-fitted waist is halfway between the fitted waist
Trace out the f1tted waist and indicate the different stretch
and the unfitted waist, and should be labeled with the dif-
rat1os.
ferent stretch ratios. t
The fitted waist may be too tight or extreme for many tops
The shoulder seam isn't reduced because it will have twill
i
but may be necessary for dresses, especially strapless
and tube dresses. tape (shoulder stay) applied and will not stretch. i
The shoulder seam isn't reduced because it will have twill The best method for tracing the different ratios of the arm- i

•••
tape (shoulder stay) applied and will not stretch. hole is to create a template of the armhole curve and pivm
it from the shoulder point to the different ratios.
UNFITTED WAIST

Label the side seams of the Sloper with the additional Stable Moderate Stretchy Super-stretch
stretch ratios. Rib
knit knit

•
knit knit knit
0 -'/s

••
-'/• _,/8

JEWEL NECKLINE
••
•-•
A Jewel neckline is simply a round neckline, and will need a facing in order to
f1n1sh the raw edge along the neckline.

In order for the neckline to be pulled on over the head it must be enlarged
a~tached

-
to at least the head size, because once the facing is it will not
stretch enough. '
 TOPS CW\PTE'H 7 200

·~
3"
11f2
..._1 112 ~

(_ ___
TOP
BLOC1< TOP
BAC1< BLOCK
FRONT TOP TOP
MED MED BLOCK BLOCK
(date) BACt\ FRONT
(datel
MED MED
~date) (dale)

Trace out the unfitted wa1st of the t bl

rat1o of you fabric. op ocks, in the stretch Measure the neck and subtract t11at amount from 21
(m1n1mum)
In order for the neckline to be pulled over I he head 11 must
Neckline 15".
b.e enlarged
. . to at least
. 21 unless a zp ' per or other' open-
Ing detail 1s used to mcrease the circumference. Subtract from 21".

In th1s example the measurement of the total neck is 15• Balance 6".
and 11 needs to Divide by 4 = 1'h " (two fronts and two backs).
be 21.
Mark the shoulder in 1'12' from the neckline.
Reshape the neck.
Note: Sometimes the center back will be forced lower 1n
order to maintain a smooth and balanced curve.

CB
2 112"
'- ..--2 112"
CF
3112"[
-
I
' _12 112"

CB
JEWEL JEWEL CF
NECK NECK
TOP TOP
BACK FRONT
MED MED
CUT1 CUT1

FACING FOR A JEWEL NECKLINE

Label the pattern as indicated. Measure and mark the shoulders in 2'H' from the neck.
Measure and mark the front neckline down 2'12".
Measure and mark the center back neck down 3'/i'.
The center back facing is always lower than the front. It
helps to keep the facing inside and c reates a nice frame
for the label.
 210 CHAPTER 7 TOPS

;:r
. ~
CF
2 E) ~
CF
CB

Square guidelines from the shoulder seam and center

front/back.
Draw in the facing; remember to square for '12' at the Trace out the facing on a new piece of paper.
shoulders and the necklines.

1/4" 3/8" 3/8" 114"

3 4 CB
CF
3/8" 3/8"

CB
CF
JEWEL NECK
TOP BACK
MED
CUT1
3/8" JEWEL NECK
TOP FRONT
MED "
ill

•".
CUT1
(on fold) (on fold )
Remove 'Ia" from the front shoulder line to make the facing
slightly smaller so the seams will roll toward the inside of
the neck facing.
l ill

5 1/4"
1" hem allowance

Add the seam allowances as indicated.

1" hem allowance

..
..
3/8" 3/8"

CB 1/4"
The neck has '12'' seam allowances, since it should be
BACK FACING sewn with the straight stitch machine. It won't stretch

..
CUT 1 SELF once fusing is applied to the facing , and it doesn't neeo to
CUT 1 FUSE
stretch because the neck opening had been made wider.

no seam
allowance added

Add '12'' seam allowances to the shoulder seams.

no seam
allowance added

.
Iii
Add 'I•" seam allowance to the neckline edge.

No seam allowance needed for the outside edge of the

facrng,because it will not be sewn to anything and
hes rnsrde the garment.
Label the pattern:
I
mere y
..
...
Cut 1 self
Cut 1 fusing-tricot
 TOPS CHAPTER 7 211

·- ·---- ---
---------------------

V-NECK WITH FACING

The V-neck does not have to be enlarged if the vis low

enough that the head can fit through the opening.
Remember that the V-neck can be as low as your design
requires.
To determine how low the V-neck will be, measure down
on the dress-form, from the center front neckline dow n-
wards, and apply that measurement to the draft.

CB

I
CF
measurement
from dress form
TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(date) (date)

Trace out the semi-fitted waist in the stretch ratio of your

Measure down on the draft the measurement from the
fabric.
dress-form.
Because there is no sleeve inserted into the armhole, you
must raise and take in the underarm '12" to prevent under-
garments from showing, and the sides of the breast from
falling out, or showing.
Other ways to tighten this area-binding that is slightly
smaller, elastic, or banding-will be discussed later in this
chapter.
 1 CB 2

CF
CF
V-NECKTOP V-NECKTOP
BACK FRONT
MED MED
CUT1 CUT 1
(on fold) (on fold)

Label the pattern as indicated.

Because the garment rs sleeveles:~: ends of the shoulder
ou also must bring rn
the shoulder a mrmmum of so
seam don't hang ott the shoulders.
re drafted for sleeves to
Remember that the armholes w~ . any shape you desire.
be attached Draw a new armho e rn ..
Create a V-neck as low as you wrsh. illustrated here at 3 .

To determme the depth of the V-neck, s;m~y~:~~~u;~w

down from the neck porn! on the dress- or
you wrsh the neck to be.
.
3
3 112
CB
2 112'

... '
2 112" 2112/,•,

''
/
21/2"
4
"-
ill
/
' '
' ' i!l
21/2" '...: .../
2 112' ·._f \. .' • CF
_.· 2112"'.,
ill
iii
••
..
..
Create the facings as separate pieces as
shown.
•
II
The center back facing should be 3'12'
low; this gives room for the label and ••
looks more appealing when on the
hanger. ..
All other facings should be at least 2'12''
wide.
It doesn't look very nice to see the back facing when the garment is on the
•
•'
hanger.

In higher-priced garments, create the back facing long enough so the facing
edge is 2'12'' lower than the front V-neckline.

Shown here with sleeves to indicate the back facing only. If creating sleeVe-
••
less garments, combine the armhole and neck facings, as will be illustrated.
Your price point and target market will determine this. •
 TOPS CHAPTER 7 213

5 ~ca···· ....
3 1/2"
j ............. :
: :

... .;, . .
••• • •• 2 112"• .-''-:·· •• ..).
1/6"

2112'• , ;/ \ '
•
,• •CF'
: •• • 2 112''•• :
6

Create the facing in one piece 2 ,12.. a f Remove '/•" from the shoulder seams to make the facing
and armholes. ' way rom the neck
slightly smaller, since it is on the inside of the garment and
Curve the lower edge shape so it doesn't show throu h is therefore slightly smaller. This helps to pull the seam
A. stra1ght. line would .show edges slightly inward.
. through the g arment as a bold
g ·
line: but 1f you curve 11 slightly it will not show through as
eas1ly when worn, espec1ally after being pressed a few
times.
A one-piece facing prevents sewing errors and is easier to
cut. It also has a much better hanger appeal.

318"
7 8
'
'' 3/8"
3/8"

, ..... ,

3/8"
.-
•
.'
318"

Add seam allowances to the back facing as indicated. .'•

'
3/8' for the shoulders and side seams.
The front facing is as illustrated, in one piece.
W' for the armholes and neck. Add seam allowances to the front facing as shown.
The inside edges do not require any seam allowance be-
cause they will not be sewn to anything.

'
'

The V-point on the facing edge may be curved for easier

and faster serging. This enables the operator to serge in
one step, all the way around, rather than two steps, once
in each direction.
 ,.
:
-14 , HAI'lt ll 7 TOr'S

2 l
2' .
l COLLAR
CUT1
! foldline J ... 4"

••
•..
3" 4 112" 4 112'' 3"

;:::7
3'

TURTLE
NECK
TOP
BACK
MED
TURTLE
NECK
TOP
FRONT
MED
....
•..
CUT1 CUT 1
on fold on fold

MOCK NECK
A mock neck. or mock turtleneck. T-shirt is a short turtle-
neck where the collar does not fold back down.
Draft the collar pattern to any height desired, but mock ••
••
neck collars tend to be 3" and under. If longer, we often
refer to them incorrectly as turtlenecks.
The length is determined by the total neckline measure-

•••
ment, without any reductions, because the collar should
stand up, not lie flat.

Note: This draft must be doubled to encircle the entire

neckline. You have only measured half the draft.

The collar should only have one seam , either at the center
back or, preferably, li ned up with the left shoulder seam. •
8"
COLLAR
CUT1
foldline J
3" 4 1/2" 4 1/2" 3"

114"

TURTLE
NECK
TOP
FRONT
MED
CUT1
on fold

TURTLENECK
Draft the collar pattern to any height desired, but turtle-
A turtleneck T-shirt has a higher collar than the mock-neck
neck collars are usually over 2".
and is intended to fold down over itself.
The length is determined by the total neckline measure-
People tend to refer to any type of mock-neck collar that is
over 2'/2'-3" as a turtleneck. ment, without any reductions, because the collar should
stand up, not lie flat.

Note: This draft must be doubled to encircle the entire

neckline. You have only measured half the draft.

The collar should only have one seam, either at the center
back or, preferably, lined up with the left shoulder l188lft.
 TOPS CHAPTER 7 215

' 112"
:--
toldhnfl

1 \l
._, _, .._

......
CORRECTING THE FIT OF A TURTLENE 112' ' ' 112'

Because the customer's . CK COLLAR Or

colisimply remove approximately
. ' ,• from each end of the

..
. neck IS wid
the top,- usmg the exact neckl.me meas er at the base tha n at ar pattern.
d ra ft WI 1I create a collar th t urement from th ~:~:lop of the collar is now smaller and will fit snug to the
away from the neck. You c:nglapes at the top, standinge me.
r ht ·
a s 1g correct1on to the fit.
eave the dr ft ·
a as IS or make
The edge that att aches to the sweater IS also smaller and

•:-
To correct this , pinch out th e extra amou t must be stretched to fit into the neckline.
and remove that amount from th n • measure it,
e pattern as illustrated .

3/8"

3/8" 3/8"

I-
3/8"

3/8" 3/8" 3/8" 3/8"

TURTLE TURTLE
NECK NECK
I T-SHIRT 3/8" T-SHIRT
BACK FRONT
MED- - MED
CUT1
CUT1
on fold 3/8" on fold

l
1" hem allowance
Add seam allowances and label the pattern as indicated in
the Mock Necks section.
The seam of the collar should line up with either the center
back or the neckline or, preferably, the left shoulder seam.
Always the left, where it is less noticeable.
OTHER TURTLENECK COLLAR CORRECTIONS
If your fabric does not stretch enough for the collar to pull
on over the head, you have several options to correct the
collar. Use whichever method your collar demands.
Use a matching rib fabric, which will stretch enough to fit
over the head.
 ·~
2it) CHAPTER 7 TOPS

:
COLLAR
CUT 1 ••
RIB ONLY

••
•....
TURTLE
NECK
TURTLE
NECK
TOP .•
.
TOP
BACK FRONT
MED MED
CUT 1 CUT 1
on fold on fold

ther c losure .'" the collar, so the neck-

"....
••
Use the same pattern piece. exactly as ·s
' ' but it may not Insert a zipper or o to et the garment on and oH the
line can be opened up g
be snug enough. b % for a snug fit. body.
Or reduce the width of the pattern y 10

• •
COLLAR
CUT 1. I
I
1/8" I
:;;
c.
c.
·;;:;
13"
b :.:
TURTLE
TURTLE
NECK
WITH NECK
ZIPPER WITH
BACK ZIPPER
FRONT
MED MED FRONT
CUT1 MED
CUT1
on fold CUT1
on fold
on fold

The zipper should be a total of 10", with 4" inserted into the
collar and 6" inserted into the front of the top.
The next illustration shows how to indicate the zipper
opening.
When the zipper opening is cut out, the cutter should only
cut machine.
3" down so the operator can cut the remaining 3" at
the
Sometimes zippers may be a single tooth longer or a
Single tooth shorter than the actual measurement, Which
would leave a hole in the front, so let the sewing machine
operator cut the balance of the opening While at the
mach1ne.
To indicate a zipper opening on the pattern, remove a slit
'Ia" wide half the length of the zipper.
The slit is made 'Ia" wide, like a notch, so the marker maker
can trace into the slit area. There is room for the mecham-
cal pencil.
Sometimes zippers may be a single tooth longer or a
single tooth shorter than the actual measurement, which
would leave a hole in the front, so let the sewing machine
operator cut the balance.
Label the Pattern with the length of zipper that should be
purchased, not the length of the notch/slit, so the produC-
tion manager and cutter can ensure that they have enough
zippers In stock before cutting out thoueanda o-n••
of
 TOPS CHAPTER 7
217

1/8"

TURTLE
NECK
WITH
ZIPPER
FRONT
MED
CUT1
on fold

Your design may require inserting the zipper on an angle.

Enlarge the collar slightly and ease it into the neckline. Use
The operators will not know that you want it cut in this
this technique for very small amounts only, otherwise your
direction, unless you tell them.
collar seam will pucker.
Indicate the slit in the place that you wish the zipper to be
This will also depend on your fabric, as some knits, espe-
inserted.
cially shiny ones, will visually exaggerate even the slightest
Alternatively, some patternmakers use drill marks to amount of ease.
indicate the bottom of the zipper. Drill marks aren't very
dependable on knit fabric, and may create holes or runs
in your garments, so they should be avoided if possible.
There are times when there is no other way to indicate a
detail other than with a drill mark, which should be marked
with chalk.

1/2" 112"

foldtine l
1/T 1/2"

. um of '12'' on each Enlarge the neckline wider, and the collar accordingly:
Enlarge the width of the collar, a maxim however, the collar will sit slightly away from the neck.
side, for a total maximum of 1" wider.
. . a not ease into the
If you make the collar any w1der, 't m Y
neckline without showing gathers and puckers.
 218 ••
CHAPTER 7 TOPS

••
••
..
~
..
•.
TURTLE TURTLE
NECK NECK

.
TOP TOP
BACK FRONT
MED MED
CUT1 CUT 1
on fold on fold

An extremeIY WI'de neckline may be created• to fmake

t the .
~

••
h necessary or as much as you
W1den the collar as muc as ' f t least '12'' to top very easy to get on and off• or as a des1gn ea ure.
h shoulder seam o a
~~:~~e~t~~:::'fro:: 1~ 1 ng
off the customer's shoulders.

In order to maintain a smO oth curve on the back

. neckline,
.1t may be necessary to lower the back neckline. If so, re-
member to keep the center back neckline square. ••
Create a new collar to fit the new widened neckline.

,.......::..
: ; - -- - ; - - - , I
•
COLLAR J __; I
CUT 1 l fold line ......
i
create a new collar to fit the neckline
...... .....::
I
I
I

'•
TURTLE
NECK
TOP
FRONT
MED
CUT 1
t
on fold

Widen the collar as much as necessary, or as much as you
desire. However, have a shoulder seam of at least '/,'' to
prevent the top from sliding off the customer's shoulders.
In order to maintain a smooth curve on the back and front
neckline, 1t may be necessary to lower both. If so, remem-
ber to keep the center back and center front necklines
square.
Create a new collar to fit the new widened neckline.
•t
CREW-NECK T-SHIRT
To create a crew-neck T-shirt, use rib knit for the collar in
order for it to stretch enough to lie flat against the neck.
It may be difficult for the student designer to find match1ng
jersey and rib, and you may have to use a contrast colored
collar.
Knitting mills often sell matching ribs, trims, and polo
collars that match the fabric. However, the student or new
designer may not have access to these supplies and will
have to use contrast fabrics.

Alternatively, crew-neck T-shirts can be Cf9llted entirely

utilizing rtb fabrics: rib body and rib collar.
 CHAPTER 7 219
TOPS

1'
....... 1"
1"1. •••• •
\ /
·- •• 11 " t

.-.
TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK TOP
TOP
BACK FRONT BLOCK
BLOCK
MED MED SACK FRONT
(date) (dale) MED MED
(date) (date)

i: Draw the neck seam 1" parallel to the front and

lines, below the neckline.

Remove 1" from the T-shirt draft parallel to d

back neck- These sections will be discarded from the final patterns,
and should be erased after they are measured.

-
original neckline. an below the

measure for the collar draft

,.1f--------------------------11 2•
\ /
measurement from the collar draft

TOP TOP measure for the collar draft

BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(dale) (date)

Sew the neckline measurement to draft the rib collar.

Measure and record the neck edge of the discarded
pieces in order to draft the rib collar.
Measure the smaller, inside c urve-the original neckline-
of the block, so the final collar wil l lie flat.
Note that the rib collar is smaller than the new neckline
it will be sewn to and must be slightly stretched in order
to fit.
Also note that some rib fabrics are much more stretchy
than others and may need to be reduced further in order
to lie flat.

Draft the collar twice as wide as needed, since it will be

d
CREW NECK C9.L.~f3..
----c;u·f'1Rii!oNLY ·•
j2· folded in half and both edges sewn to the neckline.
The collar will have only one seam, at the center back, or
preferably at the left shoulder.

CREW
NECK
TOP
FRONT
MED
CUT1
on fold
220
CHAF'TE.R 7 TOPS

as tllustrated, for
nces to the pattern
318" Add " seam allowa
four-thread sergers.

1" hem to the pattern. NLY"· otherwise the

318" 318 Add a "RIB 0 h
bel the collar as never stretch enoug
Be sure to Ia t in self and would h enough to sew to
collar may be cu d wtll not stretc
3/8" 318" 318' to Itt over the head, an
CREW the neckline.
CREW
NECK NECK
TOP
TOP
FRONT
BACK
MED MED
CUT 1 318"
CUT1
on fold
on fold

.. -~
- · · - ·- ·1- h~,;;;ti~~~~~e

TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(date) (date)

V-NECK T-SHIRT t of the V on the pattern. us-

Indicate the depth amoun the destgn reqUires.
trated here at 3" but may be as low as
Determine how low you wtsh the V-neck to be by measur-
tng on the dress-form from the neck down. To determine how low you wish the V-nec k t o be. measure
down the neckline of the dress-form.

1"
··.;..
·..;:. 1"
TOP TOP '.
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(date) (date)

Draw the collar on the draft 1" parallel to

the neckline. Measure. record , and remove or erase the collar port•on from the draft
Measure the inside edge to determine the final length of the collar.
In order to lie flat, the collar must be slightly smaller than the neck seam.
This is done by recording the smaller collar edge.
 TOPS CHAPTER 7
221

318"

:-- --v.t.iECI•(Cc5L-LAfC--~- -:
3/8- :____ 9~!1~19~!"!-:! ____ ...
318~
118'

318" 318" 318 318~

.............
3/8 : I
' / i
V-NECK
V-NECKTO~; \V-NECtt: TOP!
BACK : ~ FRONT
TOP
FRONT
MEO : \ MEO I
MED
CUT1
~~r:1~ \' ~nuf:~ I
!
on fold '' I
318"
''
''
---------
1" hem
' 1 hem
Measure the discarded piece in order to determine the
length of the collar pattern. Add seam allowances and label the pattern as Illustrated.
Label the collar as "RIB ONLY" to ensure that the collar
The rib w ill be stretched to fit the neck opening, which will
does not get cut out in self fabric, which would not allow 1t
force it to lie flat
to stretch enough to fit the neckline.

TOP
BLOCK
FRONT
MEO
(date)

V-NECKCREW Line up the ruler with the center front and the shoulder
point of the neckline.
The V-neck crew is a variation of both the c rew and the
Extend the line the length of the back nee" measu•errent.
V-neck.
 ~~' HAI'TER 7 TOPS

TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(date) (date)

Make the collar 1" wide and draw the line parallel to the Trace out the other side of the collar draft.
previous line.
3/8''
Blend to the curve of the front neckline.

3/8" 3/8"

".
3/8" 3/8" 3/8" 3/8"

3/8"
ill

-
V-NECK V-NECK
CREW CREW
TOP TOP BACK FRONT
BLOCK
BACK
BLOCK
FRONT
MED
CUT1
MED
CUT1
~
MED
(date)
MED
(date)
(on fold ) - - (on fold)
i
il
...
Trace and separate the collar pattern as shown.
1" hem 1" hem

Add seam allowances and label the pattern as indicated.

••
Label the collar as "RIB ONLY" to ensure that the collar
does not get cut out in self fabric, which would not allow it
••
to stretch enough to fit the neckline.

•
I

•
''
'
•;
 TOPS CHAPTER 7 2 23

TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(date) (date)

BOATNECK T-SHIRT
This boatneck is a very simple neckline to dr
often the basis for many cowl necklines.
Square up the center front and back.
.
aft, and IS Square across the center front and back to line up w1th the
shoulder point.
It appears as if this high boatneck will choke the cus-
tomer, but the fabric will stretch across to allow room and
comfort.

p:37
~
TOP TOP COWL COWL
BLOCK BLOCK NECK NECK
BACK FRONT TOP TOP
MED MED BACK FRONT
(date) (date) MED MED
CUT 1- - CUT1

Add a 2" hem or fold back facing to the neckline. Trace out the completed pattern as illustrated.

Fold your paper along the neckline and trace with tracing
wheel to true the sides of the hem/ facing so they match
the shoulder line.

no seam allowance for the facing/hem

318"
COWL
COWL
NECK
NECK
TOP
TOP
FRONT
BACK 318' MED
MED
CUT1
CUT1-.,

'' ''
\ 318" !

---1-;.-he,;,·--· ·--1·..-h;rr;·--
nd label as indicated.
Add the required seam allowances a
 .....
~4 CHAPTER 7 TOPS
.....
2 .!.<' (
,,11

......
....
/

TOP
BLOCK
SACK
MED
(date)
TOP
BLOCK
FRONT
MED
(date)
...
WIDE BOATNECK
The ..a,..,• t>oa ~~• Ca"' oe drafted fan her away from the
neo· and wtl 'lC: be ash gh as !he pre' 'ous draft, and may
Measure .m from t he n eck ' any amount, but at least 'h"
away from the arm hole so the armhole seam allowances
don't show at the nec kline • and especially if sleeves are to
be attached.
....
be more comf::)"table
Illustrated here at 2", but may be any amount the design
requires.

~ ,___,. \---=i'
~
/ \
•
•
TOP TOP
TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BlOCK BLOCK
FRONT
BACK
BACK FRONT
MEO MEO MED MED

•
(date) (date) (date)
I date)

il
II

Square a hne up the center front and back. The neckline will be as illustrated, and w ill need a hem or
••
Square a hne across to meet the other ltne. facing along the neck edge.

••
.
The back neckline may have to be slightly lowered to ac-
commodate the new boatneck.

~12' Add a 2" hem or foldback facing to the front as illustrated.

....
(I

BOAT
NECK
BOAT
True the shoulder by folding your paper and tracing the shoulder with a trac-
tng wheel. ..
II
NECK With this draft, the facing will extend into the armhole, and when sewn into

--
TOP
TOP
BACK FRONT
the sleeve seam, wtll prevent the facing from rolling outward.
MEO MED
CUT1
CUT1
~

•
;
 TOPS CHAPTER 7 225

u--=>

TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MEO MEO
(date) (date)

••=
COWL NECK

By enlarging the front portion of the boatneck Square the back neckline up and 1n as for the boatneck,
eastly create a cowl neckline. you can making sure that both lines intersect at right angles (90
degrees) .

-•
=
\ \ !.
'\~ _.:........

TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MEO MEO
(date) (date)

To determine the length of cowl , hold the tape measure as
low as your desire and as far away from the dress-form as
you desire, and record that measurement. Divide it in half
to use for your draft, since you will be only drafting half of
the garment.
Using your " J.:' ruler, match the hem and the shoulder nee
point as illustrated.
It must remain perfectly square at the front or your fina!
neckline will end up having a point at the front.

. t d with this style, you will

Because of the cowling and extra fabnc crea e .
. . d fts in the front, as you W I11
need a larger hem facing than w1th prev1ous ra •
easily see inside the cowl.
ld r and draw a curved
Add 4" hem to the front and 2" hem at the shou e '
line as illustrated.
 .,;:~ CHAPTER 7 TOPS •:
••
•.
CB CF

•....
COWL
TOP COWL NECK
TOP
BLOCK BLOCK NECK TOP
BACK FRONT TOP FRONT
MED MED BACK MED
(date) (date) MED
' (date)
(date)

The factng can be drafted larger m the center front to
prevent the facmg on very flUid fabrics from rolling to the
outstde.
In some very htgh-end garments. a small wetght ts at-
tached to the center front pomt of the factng to keep it
securely tnstde
••
Illustration shows the completed pattern.
•
•••
Note: The front hem of this draft must be corrected,
stratghtened out, and will add length to the front of the
garment. While not noticeable in a large cowl, you should
use an alternative method (see later in chapter) if your
design requires a straight hem or if a skirt is attached.

• •
••
••
••
••
•.
•.•.
TUBULAR COWL

A cowl may also be created with a tubular collar attached This cowl is a separate collar piece that is folded and at-
tached to the neckline

..,...
With a separate collar piece that is sewn to the neckline. '
If your tubular collar is very large, it should be sewn with
wrong Sides together, so the serging is on the outside
and will be hidden by the large collar. If it is sewn with the

...
sherglng on the inside, the seam allowances will show at
t e neckline.

,..
 TOPS CHAPTER 7 227

1
,.
___.
measure

\_ 2
\ "
TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK TOP TOP
BACK -
MEO
- FRONT BLOCK BLOCK
FRONT
MEO BACK
(date) (date) MEO MEO
(date) (date)

Measure how far you wish the cowl t0 .

and mark. Sit from the neck, To draft the collar piece, measure the cowl design line and
record the number.
Measure how deep you wish the cowl to be, and mark.
Draw in the neckline with curved lines.

4
3 . -~':J~.\-1-~Fl COWL COLLAR
ME-0 CUT-,------ ---

>measure <

TUBULAR TUBULAR
COWL COWL
TOP TOP
BACK FRONT
TUBULAR TUBULAR MED MED
COWL COWL (date) (date)
TOP TOP
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(date) (date) The tubul ar cowl can also be created with more volume at
the front and less at the back as illustrated. This draft has
the seam located at the center back of the top.

Draw the tubular cowl exactly the same length as the

neckline measurements.
Make the cowl as a single pattern piece, with the seam at TUBULAR COWL COLLAR
5 --------ME-6 cuE ... -----
the center back or preferably at the left shoulder.

. olume in the front and more at the

Or the cowl may be created w1th less v
back, with the seam at the back neck.

TUBULAR TUBULAR
COWL COWL
TOP TOP
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(dlllll) (diD)
 ••,
I

CHAPTER 7 TOPS

\': ••
••
/
~..~.....

••
••
••
COWL NECKLINE ON A FITTED TOP
All of the previous drafts. excluding the tubular cowl, will ••
••
increase the body of the garment as well as the cowl neck.
Use lhe followtng technique if you wish to create a cowl
w1th a f1tted body and don't want to 1ncrease any of the To determine the length of cowl, hold the tape measure as
body volume.
Use this draft for longer top designs, so you don't increase
volume of the body of the garment, or if you wish to attach
low as your desire, and as far away from the dress-form as
you desire, and record that measurement. Divide it in half
to use for your draft, since you wi ll be only drafting half of
••
a sktrt. the garment.
••
[F 'lJ
••
TOP
BLOCK
TOP TOP;
BLGCK
••
••
BLOCK
BACK FRONT ---fRONT
MED MED MED
(date) (date) (date)

•
Draft the neckline as if for the tight high cowl b
up and 1n, us1ng the "1..:' ruler.
.
• Y squanng Draw slash lines from th .
""_...
illustrated. e neckline to the side seam as

May be placed higher

ing on the a
to increase.
or lower on the side seam, depend-
mount and placem t f
en o the volume you wish
"
 TOPS CHAPTER 7 229
spread

~ - ---·-u

Slash and spread as illustrated.

Square a line using the "I.:' square.
To determine how much to spre d
surement from the dress-form. a ' use the recorded mea-

FITIED
COWL-NECK
TOP
FRONT
MED
blend": CUT 1

Add a 4" hem to the front and a 2" hem to the shoulder
area, and draw a curved line.
I
The completed pattern will add volume only to the upper
part of the garment, without increasing any of the body
portion.
As before, a larger facing/hem may be used if the fabric
is very fluid and you wish to ensure that it does not roll
outward.
 230
CHAPTER 7 TOPS

3/8'
·"··...

•.
'•

WRAP TOP
Wrap tops, betng asymmetncal. must be drafted full by
trac1ng one side of the sloper then the other s1de.
Remove ''",. at the side seam and at the shoulders, as ii-
lustrated, to puII the top in a little closer to the body, 1f you
intend to face the raw edges.
This IS not necessary if you finish the raw edge ":'ith bind-
. or ban d'tn g • as they will be cut smaller and Will pull the
1ng
garment in tighter.
This is especially important if your diagonal lines are in the
bust area.

2 1/2"

2 1/2"

fae~ng

notches
blend forties
2112

2 1/2"

Create a facing 2'12" from the front and neckline edges.

Notch the center front at the point for the ties to be in-
serted between the front and the facing when sewing.

WRAP TOP
FRONT
= MED
CUT 2

I
The facing needs 'Ia" removed to mak . r
than the outer garment. e 11 s lghtly smaller
Trace and sepa t th
ra e e Pattern pieces as illustrated.
 TOPS C HAPTER 7 231

As·
51 9nment #7-1: Create AT-Shirt
To improve
and your understanding and knowledge of tops, draft
this sew one the foil owmg · garments usmg · the m
· struct1ons
· ·
111
c11apter.
. Complete
t a cost'mg s11eet for your ganncnts so you w .ill bc-
g111 ° underst and tl
com t 1e costs associated with manufacturing a
P 1e e garment. Please note t hat your garment wi II be very
expens1ve
t . d • beeausc you wdl · have purchased your fab ric at rc-
aJ1' ouble the cost of wholesale and your Iabo1· will be high
your sewi. ng . vc.J Y sow 1 r
10r t11ese' Jmtwl
. .. garments. However'
tl1e. exerc1se
· 1s s t'111 ·Important for understanding the relation-'
s1lip between the different costs.
Ma ke sure io check your T-shirt agai nst the mark s heets
to see how well you und eJstan . . d the patternmakmg . for tops. '
. Cut and sew out this garment so you can see what it fits
1Ike, and how the fit can be improved.

OPTION #1: CREW NECK T-SH IRT IN
JERSEY W ITH A RIB COLLAR
Draft this basic T-shirt with a rib collar. Note
that the student or new designer may not be
able to color match the jersey and rib fabrics,
and that a contrast colored rib may be used.
For sleeve instructions, see Chapter 8,
Sleeves.
OPTION #2: CREW-NECK T-SHIRT IN RIB
WITH A RIB COLLAR
Since the student or new designer may not be
able to color match the jersey and rib fabrics,
you can also create the top using rib fabric for
both the collar and the body of the garment.
For sleeve instructions, see Chapter 8,
Sleeves.

OPTION #3: V-NECK T-SHIRT IN JERSEY WITH A

RIB COLLAR
Following the drafting instructions in this ch apter
create a V-neck T-shirt. '
For sleeve instructions, see Chapter 8, Sleeves.
 Cti ~ PTER 7 TO PS
,.
'

OPTION #4: V-NECK CREW T-SHIRT IN OPTION #5 BOATNECK T-SHIRT IN

JERSEY WITH A RIB COLLAR JERSEY
Following the uraftmi! .nstructwns in th is
chapter. create a combi~ation \'-neck and crew-
neck T-"h1rt
For ~let•\·e m-.:truction,-, ,;ee Chapter 8,
Following the draftin g instructions in this
chapter, create a boatneck T-shirt.
For sleeve instructions, see Chapter 8,
Sleeves.
••
i'A
S lt·e\·b.

-"--.
••
CF

CF

FITIED
WAIST

Sleeve-Less Garments Fitted:

Follows waist curve.

SHAPE THE SILHOUETTE AS DESIRED
Tank top designs will have finished a h l
rather than sleeves. There are diffl rm o es
ods used. to fi~ish the raw edges ~;et~t meth-
holes, which Will be illustrated th h e arri_J-
chapter. roug out th1s
The tank top can be fitted • senu-
. fi tted 1
fi ared depending on the d . , • oose, or
esigner s sketch.
 TOPS CHAPTER 7 233

CF

CF

SEMi-FITTED
WAIST
UN-FITTED
WAIST

Semi-fitted:

Halfway between th e fitted and th Unfitted:

e loose.
Straight down from the underarms to the hips.

CF
CF

OV ER-SIZED
FIT FITTED
WAIST

Oversized: Flared:
Use the oversized sloper (see Chapter 11, Oversized Extend the hip out as far as desired.
Projects).

blend
CF

FITTED
WAIST

ARMHOLE CORRECTIONS FOR SLEEVELESS

Additional volume: GARMENTS
in and spreading your
Create additional volume by slash 9
draft to the desired fullness.
 HI\PTL:R 7 TOPS

1 the shoulder seam must be shortened

When creating sleeveless garmehn s.loper was c reated for a sleeve to be at-
CF ' } • Remember that t IS s . k' d f .
by at least ' · ld hang over the edge, like a In o Wing.
!ached and the extra amount wou
112" . and s hou ld not be used to create cap sleeves.
This IS not very attractive
UNDERA RM COR RECTIONS FOR SLEEVELESS GARMENTS
112"

This sloper was created to have sleeves attached, and the armholes are too
FITTED large for a sleeveless garment. .
WAIST
· t he arm hole at the side seam 'H' to t1ghten the armhole
Raise and take In .
and prevent the u ndergarments and sides of the breast from show1ng.
You may also tighten the armhole by using elastic, banding,
•
or binding
d f th ·
methods to reduce the underarm, which will be exp 1a1ne ur er on 1n
this text.

1" 1"
..
___ _":---..1 112" 11/2" .-
~.

. . .. -- 13"

TOP TOP

"..
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(date) (date)

TANK TOP WITH FACING

Th1s bas1c sleeveless garment, with armhole and neckline

facings, w1ll.ntroduce the reader to some of the drafting
and patternmaking techmques used to create tank tops.
The style lines may be placed anywhere the designer
wishes. Note that the shoulder straps can be very close to
the neck of the wearer, or away from the neck.
"
ill
ill
Don't make the shoulder straps too close to the armhole;
II
keep them at least '12'' away, so they don't create wings off Ill

•••
the edge and will help keep the straps up.

,.
3"1-----:-: 2 112"
v 2 112"
':
'\
2112"
'•(
..'\. :' ' ·.
....
•• 21/2"
\~
.......

,,
TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED
,.....,
MEO

..
(dalo)

-
Remember that this sloper was created to have sleeves
attached, and the armholes are too large for a sleeveles 1
garment. s Create a 2 12" facing pattern for this garment by drawing a
line parallel to the armholes and neckline.
Raise and take in the armhole at the side seam '1:, t
tighten the armhole and prevent the undergarme~ts~ and
Sides of the breast, from showing.
 TOPS CHAPTER 7 235

1/8"
118'
. (. __ ( 118' 1/8" "!-·--''

Blend the curves as illustrated. 118"

Do not make the facing straight across . Remove 'h'' from the facing to make it smaller since it will
edge Will easily show through th • as the stra1ght be on the inside of the garment.
e garment wh b ·
worn . A curved line will be less lik 1 en elng
e Y to show through.

1~ fi\{G:LF
1_:~
SE

0
I
ANKTO
FRONT
CUT1
MED
CUT1

I I
Trace, separate, and label the pattern pieces as illustrated. V-NECK TANK TOP WITH FACING
The V-neck tank top may be created as low as the de·
signer wishes.
To determine how low you want the V, measure down from
the neck on the dress-form.

1" 1" 31/2" 1: ..

..
....-:-:-:. . ···\··
•• 21/2" 2 1/2" :. 2 1a'
''(
....... '!' .../
... ..·· ......

TOP
BI.OCK
TOP TOP FRONT
BLOCK aED
BLOCK (cllll)
FRONT
BACK
MED MED
(dale)
(d818) Create a 2 1/2" facing pattern for this ganment by drawing a
• down from the
. . t ·11 be create d 6 line parallel to the armholes and neckline.
To Illustrate, thiS garmen WI
neck.
 236 CHAPTER 7 TOPS
:
~
••
_J_
~::\
1/8"
( 1/8" 1/8" \ )
118"

••.
•...
blend' •\ _
·-.1

TOP
. --..
TOP
BLOCK
BACK
BLOCK
FRONT
,.._ 1/8" I

.
~ ~

••..
MED MEO 1/8"
(dale) (dale)

Blend the curves as illustrated. Remove •;," from th e facing to make it smaller since it will
be on the inside of the garment.
Do not make the facing straight across, as the straight
edge will easily show through the garment when being
worn. A curved line will be less likely to show through.
••
••
~: ••
,,.-······..• /
'"'--- .. ·
.J, i
_ _ / ,~
I ••
.
V-NECK

••
TANK TOP
FRONT
MED
CUT 1 CUT 1

j I
High-end garments are often created with a larger back
neck facing so the when on the hanger, the edge of the
facing will not show. Only clean, finished self-fabric shows,
which is much nicer-looking.
Trace, separate, and label the pattern pieces as indicated.

.•
••

,.•...
Note that the facing edge is curved to keep it away from
the bust, thereby preventing the bust from getting heavy
and lumpy if the facing moves around.

,.••
 TOPS CHAPTER 7 237

SQUARE- NECKED TANK TOP

WITH FACING
Trace out the appropriate sloper.
In order to create a flattering square ne
must be squared, and kept eve ck, the Width of the sh ld
n and parallel ou er straps
Take in the armhole at the side ·
seam '12" t r
the undergarments
. . °
from showing, unless you lghten
. bthe armhole • and prevent
or b1nd1ng methods to reduce th e underarm. WI11 e using elastic. ban d'mg,

......2" 2'

n_ _ _
2" 2"
-~
112· [J·
·._Ttt'
TOP TOP
BLOCK-· BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MEO MED
(dale) (dale)

Decide how far from the neck you wish the straps to be (il-
lustrated at 2", but may be any measurement the designer
desires). Keep the straps even and parallel to the neck, or the
straps will appear wavy and uneven.
Measure down the desired amount at the front and back
neckline of the original sloper, and square a line across as Decide how wide you wish the straps to be (illustrated at
2", but may be any measurement the designer desires).
illustrated at 3" down the front and 1" down the back, but
may be any measurement the designer desires . Raise the underarm 'h" and take it in 'lz" to keep the gar-
ment tight and close to the body, and prevent the under-
Remember that if you create a garment with a lowered
garment from showing.
front and back, the garment wi ll fall off the customer.

not '.,
blended
enough

Blending it does not correct the problem; rather, it creates

a slightly rounded point at the neck.
TRUEING THE SHOULDER STRAPS

Problem-solving the straps.

. shoulders are to
At the point in the neckline where the . ·sh the raw edge.
kedgeto 1tnt
match, you need a smooth nee
238
CHAPTER 7 TOPS

the armhole
gets too large
,···

w1Ufalt
off the
shoulders

If you try to blend the square nee klme 1·n the usual manner, You need to square off the ends of t he shou lder straps.
....
..
it will open up too much and fall off the shoulders. If you square across f ro m t he neckline point, the armhole
becomes too large.
Here the neckline IS no longer squared and has changed
shape. filii
find the
the neckline
gets too small -----· center

....
~

You need to square off the ends of the shoulder straps.

If you square across from the armhole po1nt, the neckline
becomes too small.
The solution is to split the difference.

Find the center of the armhole point and the neckline point
and square a straight line across at that point.
....-.
,.,_
~
3 112" 1___ __,__
','(
2 1/2

,.
..,.,....
\ : : _____ _1_21 /2

_)._ blend

Create a 2'12" facing to clean finish the n k

. ec and armholes.
Blend the corners into smo oth cun~
Draw the guidelines 2'12" away from a d
edges. n parallel to the
••..,s.
 TOPS CHAPTER 7 239

UARE" N~
FRON1
TANK TOP
MED
CUT 1

Remove ' 18 from the facing Since it WI.11 be 1ns1de the

ment and needs to be slightly smaller. gar- Trace and separate the pattern p1eces as illustrated.

1.
">-...1112. 111~ ....... , ..
····· .
...... 13"
•.

TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(dale ) (date)

TANK TOP WITH BINDING This tank top will be drafted with straps that are 1 '12'' wide
starting 1" away from the neck.
Binding is great way to finish the raw edges of a garment.
It creates a nice, thick seam that defines the edges very The neckline will be lowered 3".
well.
If you plan to use binding to finish an armhole, it is not
necessary to raise and tighten the armhole as in garments
with a facing. The binding is cut slightly smaller than the
armhole and will pull the garment up and tighter to the
body, preventing undergarments from showing.
 ._40 CHA.PTER 7 TOPS

BIN DING REDUCTIONS d ng IS to be ap plied . The bind-

hole •f b•n '
d ta~e 1n the arm mailer than the armhole and
Do not raiS" an hole because '' IS s
mg Will tighten the arm
d ng sewmg. .
stretchoo to f•t un the open1ng by reduc1ng the arm.
smaller than
Ma~e the finiShing b•nd•ng total length measurement.
b · ofthe
hole measurement Y ment then divide the sum by 6
to back measure
Add front "'"asurement
1 5
and muii Pi> b\ · d e that w ill have binding ap plied.
3111 lliowances to any e g
Do not ,1dd s" ' mllole and red uce by approximately
measure the ar
Alt~•n.lllvt>ly. you may men! by 0 83.
16 5% t>v mull•ply•nq the measure .

Use ' smaller for nylon spandex. . . .

FRONT+ BACK
X 5 Some fabncs may need add•t•ona 1 r eduction ' whiCh you w ill determ•ne
6 w1th your sample.

If the total arm ho Ie IS 6 .. then the new binding shou ld be 5".

W•1T
If the total arm ho Ie IS 12 .. then the new binding shou ld be 10".

-
If the total armhole IS 18" then the new binding should be 15".
3.'1. • 17

. ._ or 1• smaller for nylon spandex. Some fabrics may need additional

reduct1on.

Label the pattern with the fin ished (after already sewn, w ith re duc tions)
measurement.

Label the area that each binding w ill be applied to.

Since the manufacturer of your garments m ay be i n ano the r countr y, and

to avo•d confusion, binding measurem ents are w ritten on the pattern in
the area where they will be applied , along with the fin ishe d m easurement.

Most b•ndmg •s applied w ith a cellarette that w ill auto matic ally reduce the
b•nd•ng, and stretch it, as 1t IS being sewn. The p roduc tion manager and
cutter must know how much to cut or purc hase b efore cutt ing th ousands
of garments

CURVED HEM

-
lft- .a 12'"

......
OUite often garments are c reated w·th
Curved hems are usually inte d
and therefore some of th
' a c urved hem .

n .ed to be worn tucked into p ants o r skirts,

e bulk In the hlp area is reduc ed.
Stra•ght hem s are intended to be
0
.
worn outs Jde other garments
raw a QUideilne approximate! 3" .
the des1gner requires. Y above the hem, but it may be as much as

··············T·J··············
3"
 ..e
TOPS CHAPTER 7 241

,.
3/S"x 12"
...J
~
I!?

...
-"'~ 3/s· x 12"
',)IU fiOIShed
binding

•
3/S~x 12·
finished
a~ binding

•'
I Draw in your new hemline.
112• hem
allowance

Don't add any seam allowances for edges that will have
I Remember to keep the curves as shallow a . 'Ia' binding applied.
that you can cover-stitch them easil Ad s posslbl_e so
I difficult to hem. y. eep curve IS too
t
•• Square the front and back of the curve 0 th
get a point in your hem. '
. .
erwlse you w111

keep the back neck

•I
as high as poss•ble
I .

I
:r
~
...\\,.,.....
TOP
BLOCK
BACK
MED
(dale)

Keep the back neck very high when drafting T-back tank
You don't have to raise and take in the armholes of a
tops. Sometimes it may even be necessary to raise the
garment that will be reduced through the use of elastic,
back neck.
binding, or banding.
Make sure that the back matches the front at the side
seams and the shoulders.
Do not add seam allowances to any edge that will have
binding applied.
242
CHAPTER 7 TOPS

TANK TOP WITH SIDE CUT-OUTS

To create a tank top with cut-outs on the sides, leave one
seam of the hole open unt1l after the binding is applied.
Check that the side seams match and line up in a smooth
continuous curve.
SLIP NECKLINE
. neekl'ne may be created with straps that tie to each
A slip 1
other or are attached to the back of the top.
You don't have to raise and take in the armholes or gar-
ments that will be reduced through the use of elastic,
binding, or banding.

TOP
BLOCK
--
TOP
bust
span

BLOCK
TOP
b
TOP
n

BACK BLOCK BLOC K

FRONT
MED MED BACK FRONT
(date) (dale) MED MED
(date) (date)

Measure across the bust span and draw a guideline.

Draw a guideline parallel to the center front, squared to the
bust span measurement.

Extra Extra
Type of Knit Extra Small Small Small Medium Extra
Stable 6 1h Large Large
6 7/e 6 7/e
Moderate 6% 6'h 7 '/e 7 ';,
6% 6 3/. 7 '/a 7 7/a 8%
Stretchy 6 'h 6'/. 7 112 7 7/a 6'1e
Super-stretch 6 '/, 6% 7
6 ';, 7% 8 '/•
5 7/e 6 ';, 7 '!.

-
Rib 6 6 ';, 7';,
--------------~~~~--~___i£___~
-
77~
6';, 7 7/e
6 ';,
'/2 7 11•
 TOPS C HAPTER 7 243

Extra Extra
E~tra
Extra
Extra Small Small
~~~;~~------~~~~----~~~----~S~m~a~I~I-----
Bust eve 9· • Med oum Large Large Extra Lorge
10 10 • 11 11 •
10 10 •

;
1 Oust
span ·.
.....
rup· ••
IU~ '

~·;

TOP TOP TOP

TOP
BLOCK BLOCK BLOCk
BLOCk
BACI< FRONT BACK FRONT
MEO MED MEO MEO
ldaOO) ldalle) (date) (date)

Measure down the bust level to f.nd the apex Draw the cup. usong one of the radous measurenwnts bo
low. usong a compass from the bust apPx
The bust le•ei os the same for all stretch ratoos, sonce the
fabroc doesn't stretch on that dorectoon. and when usong a
four-way stretch there os nothong holdong down the fabroc
to stretch ot tn the lengthwose dorectoons

Extra Extru
Extra Extra
Medium Large Large Extro Largo
Type of Knit Extra Small Small Small

Stable 2 ' 2 '• 2% 2'·

2'h
2 .•
2 '/•
2·'
2J/ A
4
~···
2'1•
Moderate 2'/• 2'/• 2%
2'1. 2% 2'h 2'1• 2'/.
Stretchy 2 2 /e 2'h 2'/•
2'/• 2'/. 2%
Super-stretch 1 7/e 2 2'J, 2%
1 J/1 2 2 1/e
Rob
-------
1·/·
-- 1'!.
~ 44 CHAPTER 7 TOPS

. . from the bust apex up to the point where the shoulder

Draw a gwdeltne
meets the neck.
This gw d eI.tne follows the direction of the straps, and may be changed
accordingly.
Measure up 1" on the guideline.

TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(dale) (date)

Draw in the neckline, trying not to let your lines go within the bust circle.
Otherwise parts of the breast will be exposed.

TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(dale) (dale)

Trace and separate the pattern pieces as illustrated.

SUP NECK
SUP NECK
TOP
TOP
BLOCK
BLOCK
BACK
FRONT
MED
MED
CUT1
CUT 1

Use binding to finish off the neckline edges and to create straps or ties.
Do not add seam allowances to any edge that will have binding applied.
Attach the binding to the back and sides before attaching the front section.
 TOPS CHAPTER 7 245

bar-tack

When using binding to create straps. make the straps

longer than necessary. and then correct and complete the
measuring during fitting.
Or attach binding to the front sections befo t .
. . . re a tach1 ng the Make sure to insert twill tape 1n the strap portion of the
sides. ThiS wil l create a different effect forth t·
e 1es1straps. binding ties to prevent them from stretching.
Bar tack the strap to the back binding for reinforcement.
Do not add seam allowances to any edge that will have
binding applied.

1/2" 1/2"
,.......... , 11· \.......... 1
.. ''

TUBE TOP Raise the underarm 1" and take in 'h" at the side seams for
total bust coverage.
Tube tops are the easiest top to draft and sew.

112" 112"

1" hem 1" hem

TUBE TUBE
TOP TOP
BACK FRONT
MED MED
CUT1
CUT1
1" hem 1" hem

f the tube top. Note

Add a 1" hem to the top and bottom 0 f the top to
° "
· t the top 0
that 1" elastic may be inserted 'n mailer in length The tube top may also be created with straight side
keep it secure. The elastic should be 1 s seams, by making it much tighter. In fact, a tube top can
rarely be too tight.
than the top of the tube top. ating but-
the top by ere
Drawstring may also be added to
tonholes for the string to pass through.
 246 CHAPTER 7 TOPS

11f2".,
,. .:
:.
......

_.../(=u
TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(date) (date)

SLIT ON A CURVED SEAM Draft the armho Ie an d neckline curves as illustrated or as

desired.
Sometimes a designer wants slits on a curved area of the
garment body, such as the side seams at the hips. ForT-backs (swim-backs), tryto ~eep the back neck as
high as poss•'ble while still matntatntng a ntce curved ltne.
For this style, raise the hem at the side seams 2" and draw
a curved hem.

~L JL ~LJL

Decide on the length of the slit opening, illustrated here at Line up your ruler on the guideline and mark 6" wherever it
6", but may be higher or lower as desired.
lines up on the side seam, without going outside the side
seam.

~LJL ~L JL
cu~
l
~-·
~ ~
· ·····-· ·

Notice that a small portion of the sides are cut off, which
will expose a small amount of skin. Notice t~at a 7" slit will cut off the side and expose slightly
more sktn.

This diagram shows how the sides wiU be cut away and
expose some skin on the Side seams.
 =
::: 1
~L JL 2
TOPS CHAPTER 7
247

ii ___/-· ·--~
nn
=
--=
Draw in the new side seams and hem.
The style needs a 1" fold back facing or hem.
Trace out, separate, and label the new pattern as
illustrated

...... 3
You may place a notch at the hem to indicate where the
slit facing should fold back. It is also a good idea to make
the top of the facing straight across .

318"

... TANK TO
FRONT

'<!>
MED
CUT1
CF

i
4

An angled line is not different enough from the side seam

1/2"
to tell the sewer where to stop sewing down the side seams. 1/2"

Trace out the pattern and label as indicated.

But of course, if the design requires an angled line, you
should include a drill mark to indicate the end of the seam. Note that there is no seam allowance added to the slit,
because it is already a hem allowance.

1
118"

2
TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MEO MED
(date)_ _(date)

TANK TOP WITH SEPARATING ZIPPER Measure the width of the zipper teeth, the amount that the
-11 increase the zipper would increase the width, and remove half of that
The width of the exposed zipper teeth WI 1;."
move
· uM~~re amount from each side of the front sloper.
SIZe of the front so to compensate yo
from the center 'front, '18' from each side.
 248 CHAPTER 7 TOPS

Test Your Knowledge of the

Material in this Chapter
1. What fit should be used for tank tops?
9. How do you create an asymmetrical tank
top?
••
•.
10. How can you hem an asymmetrical
2. What is semi-fitted?
3. What is un-fitted? hemline?
4. How can you make the binding square? 11. Do the front and back hems have to be the
5.How far from the neck should the straps same curves?
be?
6. How much should you raise and tighten
the armhole of a tank top?
7. Should you always raise and tighten the
12.

13.
How much is the hem allowance for curved
hems?
How much seam allowance is needed for
separating zipper? a
"..
'I
armhole of a tank top?
8. How much seam allowance should be
applied to edges that will have binding
14. How much should banding be reduced for
tank tops?
'
tl
applied?

Test Your Knowledge By Creating This Tank Top

'.
II
Style #
Descnption:
#4004
One-way-stretch square-neck
Date July 07 •
I
tank top with curved hem and slits
Spnng/Summer 04 Sizes Medium
i
Season
Fabnc lnterlock/jersey/T-shirt knit Content i
Care
i
i
Sloper to be used One-way-stretch top, regular fit , M e d'IUID
,d ii
Neck 4 " own in front , 2" d own 1n
. back j
Straps
Waist
2 away from neck , 2" w1'd e
Semi-fitted ••
••..
Slits 6 " high with 1" foldback
Seam allowances 318"
Seam fini sh Four-thread serger

••
Hem Curved 3" h lg
· h er on the side seams
If:" fl
Hem allowance
2 or curved hems
Hem finish

•
Cover-stitch
Armhole finish 3~n b'mding
/8
Neck finish 8 b'mding
311" f

';;-
Binding width 11/8" cut wlll
. finish at %"
Notes:
Cover-stitch h ems befl · .
Sew slits l ore sewmg shts.
. c osed for 1" ·
s t ltch machine. Wlth straight-
Little darts .
s m neck b m
quare neckl' ' d'mg to create ~
1ne.
Sew slits right
on the serging line.
!: CHAPTER 8

....
.-. Sleeves

= About This Chapter

This chapter develops different patterns for sleeves. The sleeve
measure~ents are determined by the body draft; therefore,
all draftmg steps are the same regardless of the fabrication
except with different measurements. You can draft a sleev~
for any knit garment using these instructions. This chapter
starts with separate sleeves a nd then explains sleeve-body
combinations, such as raglan sleeves, dolman sleeves, and
saddle sleeves. Each fabrication should have three different
sleeves with different cap heights; so, for example with the
stable knit front and back, you should have three different
cap heights. As with the previous chapters, you should dr~ft
the stable knit sloper and indicate the different stretch rat1os
for other variations.

STABLE KNIT SLEEVE REDUCTIONS

Extra Extra Extra

Extra Extra Large Large
Medium Large
Small Small
Small
23 112 23 3/ · 24
23 23 '/•
Sleeve Length 22 % 22 % 12 % 13% 14 '/s
11 '/s 11 'Is
10 10% 6 '/3 6% 7
Bicep 5 4/7 6
5 5 1/ s 7% 8 112 9 '/•
Bicep 6'/. 7
4%
5 1/s 5'12 3Y2 3 '/• 4 Y..
Wrist 2 3,4 3 1/s
Wrist 2 4/7
 ..":!>0

--------
CHAPTER 8 SLEEVES
~
CAP HEIGHT REDUCTION h
h leeve SitS into the arm o1e.
Any cap height may be
••
The sleeve cap determines the angle that t e s
used. dependmg on the fit requirements of the design.
Deep
Medium
Shallow
••
••
••.
Subtract from the
armhole depth -33% -50% •.
measurement -25%

••
CAP MEASUREMENTS
Th 1s chart represents the different reductions based on the
measurement of your armhole depth. •••
Armhole
Depth
Deep
Cap 25%
Medium
Cap - 33%
Shallow
Cap -50%
Armhole
Depth
7%
Deep
Cap -25%
SV2
Medium
Cap -33%
4 7/s
Shallow
Cap -50%
3%
••
•
6 4V2 4 3
3 7 V• 5% 5 3%
6 '/e 4'1e 4

••
4 1/s 3 1/s 7% 5% 5 3 7/o
6 '14 434
4% 4'14 3 V. 7% 5 7/s 5 1/s 3 7/o
6%
4 'Ia 4 '14 3V. 7 7/s 6 5 V• 4
6 V2

..
6 5 V• 4

••
6% 5 4% 3 '1s 8
6% 5 4 Y, 3 '1s 8 1/s 6 5% 4
6 7/e 5 '/e 4 y, 3'/s 8 V. 6V. 5V. 4 1/o
7 5'14 4% 3V, 8% 6 V• 5 Y, 4 V•
7 1/e 5 '/s 4% 3% 8V2 6% 5% 4 V.
7V. 5 '14 4% 3% 8% 6 V2 5% 4%

•
_..
DRAFTING THE SLEEVE SLOPER
~
(! Often the pattern maker will not draft the sleeve until after the body has been
~

,.,.
Around Armhole fitted, to save time and effort, in case of fitting changes to the armhole.
armhole ~ depth
Choose the sloper that you wish to make a sleeve for, as the measurements flit

,.
for the sleeve are taken from that pattern.

Decide on the t ype of sleeve cap that your design

requires, by referring to the following diagram.

Measure armhole depth of sloper and record. Measure the total armhole
circumference, both armholes, and record.
•,,..
,.,.
 SlEEVES CHAPTSR II 251

The sJeevoe be drafted on a folded she« of loghtweoght AB sleeve length

~ and IS shown 11"1 grit)' 10 you can see and under
atand each step, u It applies to the draft

A-C (armhole Oep1h O'Wl\JS the amount for your particular cap height, from
the chart)

Deep cap ITl1nUS 25"

Medium cap rrunus 33"
Shallow cap .. I'TliOUS 50%
C-D • bicep hoe - square a hoe out.

Urge

23'/• 23'/r

Sleeve length
 :!5" CHAPTER 8 SLEEVES
~
••
••.
D bicep

••.
..
•••
Place the ruler on point A and wherever it lines up with
your armhole measurement, on the bicep line, draw a line.
This determines the bicep length.
B-E = wrist
Square out 'H ' from A.
•
••
••
Square out W' from D.
C-D = half of the total armhole measurement
Measure the front and back armhole and then divide this

••
amount in half.

Extra
Extra Small
Extra
Small Small Medium Large
Extra
Large
Extra
Extra Large
••
Wrist
Half of Wrist
4% 1
5 /a 7
5 /a 6% 7% 8 1/a 8-1.
•.
._.
2Y.. 2% 3 3% 3% 4 1/a 4\1:!

~
,.,
~

,.
(Ill

,.,
fA

,
~

~
~
 SLEEVES CHAPTER 8 253

I
z·
0 bicep C

A-D divide into fourths and lab e1F• G, and H.

F measure down 'h ".
Square a short guideline from each po.1nt. I measure remains the same.
H measure up '12".

A
A
H. .·
G

F
.. "I'

bicep
c
c
D

B
E
B

Connect point D to C to create the inseam of the sleeve.

A =H =G = F = D draw the sleeve head connecting all
points in a smooth and continuous line.
Remember to square for '12' at the underarm and at the top
of the sleeve head for at least W'.
 ...w
CHAPTER 8 SLEEVES

......
......
....
...
..
I
u
h If-way

E E
-••
To take in the sleeve for fitted sleeve styles:
Find the half-way point of the inseam and measure 1" up
Take in the sleeve 'H' and blend a smooth inseam .
••
from that point.
••
•••
••
••
1"1 ....
...
- -h~li-.;ay half-way

IIlii

Cut out the sleeve on the fold and open up and draw in
Starting at the underarm, walk the sleeve around the
.,..
,.,.
the grainline and a notch at the top of the sleeve, and an
elbow notch. armhole.

..
 SLEEVES CHAPTER 8 255

( _front
\rmhole

l back
armhole

When you reac h the shoulder, place a small pencil mark on Then turn the sleeve over and walk around the other side
the sleeve indicating by how much the sleeve is too large. against the back top sloper.

EASE EASE

1\ 1\

TRUEING THE SLEEVE

. . te the amount of ease . b. ger than %" or smaller than V2", then
You must have two marks that 1ndlca If your sleeve ts 19
correct the sleeve.
1n the sleeve. nded you must .
han the recomme taddexra t to the seams· because the sleeve wtll
If your sleeve is bigger or smaller t t the sleeve. You canno st be distributed evenly throughout
ease of 'h" to %", then you must correc fit wrong; the ease mu
the sleeve as shown. . .
. towards the gratnhne.
Fold side seams In
 -56 CHAPTER 8 SLEEVES

CUTTING
LINES
spread
...---.
E
E
••
•..
..
To increase the amount of ease to a minimum of y,• and
maximum of %", slash and spread equally to the desired
•
••
Draw in the cutting lines.
measurement.
••
•.
The sleeve must always be at least Y>'' bigger and at the
most %" larger than the armhole.

This amount is the sleeve ease, whic h must always be al-

lowed to get a correct fitting sleeve.

split the difference

to blend the sleeve cap
Note: Do not change the wrist measurement.
••
overlap •
••
.:1

~
••
~
~
~
~
~
~
Hetrace the sleeve, blending the armhole by splitting the
difference between the two sides.
Hecheck ease.
To decrease the amount of ease, slash and overlap to the
desired measurement. ,.
~

The sleeve must always be at least

most, w· larger than the armhole.
W bigger and. at the

This amount is the sleeve ease, which must 8JwaYS be ,._

lowed to get a correct fitting sleeve.
•
Note: Do not change the wrist measurwnent.
 SLEEVES C HAPTER B
257

CUTIING
split the difference LINES
to blend the steeve cap

Retrace sleeve and blend the armhole by splitting the dif- ALTERNATE METHOD OF CORRECTING SLEEVE EASE
ference between the two sides.
This method of correcting the ease will not change the
Recheck ease. lower portion of the sleeve, only the sleeve cap.

slash and spread to increase ease stash and overlap to decrease ease

Slash and overlap to decrease the ease so that the total

that the total
Slash and spread to inc rea se the ease s0 amount falls within the range of V2" and 31<". Blend the new
amount falls within the range of 'N' to o/4''. sleeve as illustrated.

Blend the new sleeve as illustrated.

 ~!>8 CHAPTER 8

Sloper Labeling
SLEEVES

t
tt.

-...•
t
Create all three different slee\'e caps, fo1· future usc, and label
as illustrated.

'-

••
w
w >
w
w ~ w
>
w ~
-'
"'o
a.w

••
~
(/)
(/) a.o ()::>
<w
<.J;:> a.
?i:ffi ::> w
~::> :::> w
0

••
g 0
w
::>
<i.
J:
(/)

(II
~
'-
'-
fl!
~
~

'•

Fold the sleeve in half to find the 9ra1n

. I'me.
 SLEEVES CHAPTf;A 1\ 259

Flared Sleeves
Flared or bell sleeves are Simply extend the inseam of the sleeve t he
extremely easy to create. very popu lar a nd
amount t hat you wish the sleeve t o increase.
Ma ke sure to square at t he inseam.

EVENLY FLARED SLEEVES

The previous sleeve has the fullness added towards the
inside. To create a sleeve that has the fullness distributed
equally around the s leeve, use the following draft.
 ,.
~0 C HAPTER 8 SLEEVES
•,.
•,.
••
••
••
••
••
D1v1de the sleeve mto four even sect1ons by fold ing in-
Slash and spread t he sleeve to the d esired fullness. ••
wards towards the gra.nhne.

••
••
••
••
FLARED SLEEVE D
MED
CUT2
••
.~
•
blend

Blend the cap and hem as illustrated.

••
Labe l the new sleeve as indicated.

••
•
••
I!
•
 SLEEVES CHAPTER 8 261

GATHERED SLEEVES
Divide the sleeve into four even sections by folding in-
A sleeve with a gathered wrist
same technique. may be created with the wards towards the grainline .

••
I
I
I
I

~•
• blend

Blend the cap and hem as illustrated.

Slash and spread the sleeve to the desired fullness.

'
I
 •'(5.' , HM'TE:R 8 SLEEVES
••
b I the new sleeve a
La e .
The wnst of the
s Indicated.
sleeve will be gathere
d to fit into the c uff.

. I measuren,ent .
• •,.
I
Draft the cu ff to fit the wns

••
GATHERED SLEEVE
,_.ED
CUT 2
'
••
••'

••
••
z-f
z-,
CUFF
MEO
CW2SELF
'· ••
Extra
Extra Small
Extra
Small Small Medium Large
Extra
Large
Extra
Extra Large ••
••
Wnst 5 5 6 V. 7 7% 8 Y2 9 14
HalfofWnst 2 • 2 34 3 '1• 3Y2 3'/s 4 '/4 4%

•
••
•
· ]:[L ___________________ _ ~k
A
••
•
--
~
!II
SHORT SLEEVES

Short sleeves are very easy to create.

,.,.
lilt
Measure down the inseam to the length your design requires.
This draft will create a little extra volume at the hem when ,.,.
looser styles are required.

,.,.
SLEEVE
MEO
CUT2

I
Label the short sleeve as indicated.

,.
 SLEEVES CHAPTER 8 263

~
cIt
It FITTED SHORT SLEEVE Measure down the length that your design requires and

• The previous draft adds extra width at the bottom of the

sleeve and may not be suitable for all designs.
square from the s1de seams.
Blend a new hem.

•'
I
This draft, however, is snug and fitted at the bottom . Note: This hem is slightly curved.

•
I
I SLEEVE
MED
CUT2
I
Add the necessary seam allowances to the sleeve.
Trace out the sleeve as illustrated.
Make sure to square up the hem.

1• lb...................c:J] l 1
•

Shorten the sleeve as much as you require.

CAP SLEEVES
. . hter at the underarm.
A cap sleeve needs to be pulled tn ttg
 CHAPTER 8 SLEEVES

1/2"
Trace out the new sleeve and then fold Slash and overlap the sleeve by 'h" to Trace out the final sleeve as illustrated.
the sleeve in half to find the midline. pull it in tighter to the body.

.
....
.I ..
4"

I.
:

b .................. .. d1
.
:
4"

FLARED SHORT SLEEVE

A short sleeve can have volume added to the hem. Shorten the sleeve as much as your design requires.

Draw in three slash lines.

Slash and spread the sleeve any amount required.
To determine the slash line placement, fold the sleeve
sides in towards the center grainline.

Light Medium Heavy

Spread by an additional 50% 100% 200%
 SLEEVES CHAPTER 8 265
blend

FLARED SLEEVE
MED
CUT2

blend

Blend the cap and the hem of the slee ve as .Illustrated.

I
Label the final sleeve as illustrated.

FLARED SLEEVE
MED
CUT2

I
maximum 1/2" hem allowance for curved hems
SHORT PUFFY SLEEVE
The curved hem must have a very small hem allowance,
Volume can also be added to the top of the sleeve to ere·
maximum of '/2', in order to be hemmed smoothly.
ate a puffy sleeve.

.. ...t
3" l\k.... . . . . ..j 3"

Fold t he sleeve in towards the center to locate the slash

lines.
Slash and spread the sleeve any amount required.

Very
Light Medium Heavy Heavy

--
hOWn here at 3 ". but Spread bY an
addition::al_ _ _so_%
___1_o_o_%___2_
oo_%
___3_o_o%
__
Measure down your req uired length. s
may be any amount the designer requlfes.
 266 CHAPTER 8 SLEEVES

Heavy and very heavy fullness is only suitable for light and Raise the sleeve any amount required - illustrated here at
very lightweight fabrics. 2", for 1" up, and 1" back down.

SHORT PUFFY SLEEVE

MED
CUT2
il
il

Note: The sleeve cap draft is raised 2".

Redraw the sleeve, blending the cap and blending the hem.
This translates into 1" above the regular cap, and with an
additional1 " for the fabric to come back down 1".

SHORT PUFFY SLEEVE

WITH MED HEIGHT
SIZEMED
CUT2

.... -- ... -.--- --.

---------------·-----
~-

SHORT PUFFY SLEEVES, MEDIUM

HEIGHT Raise the height of the cap by 4".
Label the sleeve as illustrated.
By inc reasing the cap height, you can
c reate a more dramatic puff sleeve.
 SLEEVES CHAPTER 8 267

.... ...
~

6" ••••........

SHORT PUFFY SLEEVE, HIGHER HEIGHT

Raise the sleeve cap 6".
Extreme variations of this sleeve are created b f .
these instructions and need tulle or netti 10 y ollowmg
sleeve. ng support the

3"1\6 .................dj!13"

Determine the placement for your horizontal seam, illus-

LONG SLEEVE WITH SHORT PUFFY CAP
trated here at 3" down from the underarm, but it may be
By sewing the cap sleeve to the regular sleeve, you can any place the designer requests.
create a long sleeve w ith a short puffy cap.

. t ds the center to locate the slash lines.

Fo ld the sleeve 1n owar
ny amount required.
Slash and spread the s Ieeve a

Light Medium Heavy Very Heavy

~ ~ 7·~-------1_oo_o/c_•________2_o_o_%_.________3_o_o_%____
·%
Spread by a~
 268 CHAPTER B SLEEVES

•..
'-

(
..··················rr·;:············.......
~ ~ ."'.
•
~ ....
-..
Raise the sleeve any amount required.
Illustrated here at 2"' for 1.. uP' and 1" back down.

...-.
I
LONG PUFFY SLEEVE
MED
CUT2

-
Trace, separate, and label the
sleeve as illustrated.

LOWER SLEEVE
MED
CUT2

I
3" 1l .. . ...........d):1
:
3"

LONG SLEEVE WITH PUFFY GATHERED UPPER

This sleeve has gathering at the cap and horizontal seam.

Measure down the amount required, illustrated here at 3".

 SLEEVE S CHAPTER 8 269

slash and~spread

Fold the sleeve inwards to

the slash lines. wards the Qrainline to d eterm ine

slash and spread

Slash and spread the sle . .
cap as well eve, mcreasmg the volume at the
as at the horizontal seam.

blend

I
UPPER SLEEVE
MED
CUT2

blend

~ ~. ~ .. --- -------

LOWER SLEEVE
MED
CUT2

I
·------------ ---------· Trace, separate, and label the sleeve as illustrated.
Blend the cap and horizontal seam of the sleeve.
 270 CHAPTER 8 SLEEVES

4" 4"
LONG SLEEVE WITH FLARED WRIST

Another way to add volume to the wrist of the sleeve is by Draw a gUide. 11ne
. w herever you wish the
. horizontal seam to
attaching a separate circular piece to the bottom of II. be, illustrated here at 4" above the wnst.

.--.
.•.,..
...
••
Trace and separate the pieces, remembering to notch the
pieces for easy assembly. Fold the bottom portion of the sleeve inwards towards the
grain line to determine the slash lines.
.•

slash and spread

Slash and spread the hem of the sleeve as illustrated. blend

Blend the hem and the top of the piece.
 SLEEVES CHAPTER 8 271

UPPER SLEEVE
MED
CUT2

Label the pattern pieces as indicated.

LONG SLEEVE FLARED FROM THE ELBOW DOWN
Another way to add volume to the wrist of the sleeve is by
attaching a separate circular piece to the elbow of it.

elbow

Trace and separate the pieces, remembering to notch the

. h the horizontal seam to
Draw a guideline whereve r you WIS hes of the sleeve. pieces for easy assembly.
be. It is illustrated here at the elbow no1c
 272 CHAPTER 8 SLEEV ES

W]
'
'
'
'

'
'

Fold the bottom portion

. of the sleeve
. inwards towards the Slash and spread the hem o f the sleeve as illustrated.
grainilne to determine the slash lines.

UPPER SLEEVE
MED
CUT2

LOWER SLEEVE
MED
CUT2
blend
Blend the hem and the top of the piece.

The more fullness required, the more you need to spread Label the pattern pieces as indicated.
the sleeve.
Notch the sleeve for easier construction.
 S LEEV ES CHAPTER 8 273

TOP
BLOCK
FRONT
MED
Sleeve-Body Co m b"matlons
. (date)

DROPPED SHOULDER AN DSLEEVES

Line up the shoulders as illustrated.
Drop shoulder sleeves are c reated b .
seam away from the natural armhole: movmg the armhole

·-.J~~-
TOP
TOP BLOCK
BLOCK FRONT
FRONT
MED
(date)
MED
(date)
1; 3~"
Square out in each direction an amount equal to the wrist
Extend a line from the shoulders equal to the length of the measurement.
sleeve.

Extra Extra
Extra Medium Large Large Extra Large
Extra small
small 23'/. 24
Extra Small 23 1/• 23 112
23 7% 8 1/e 8 7/s
22 3/• 6%
Sleeve length 22 % 5% 3~ 4'/a 4 'h
4% 5 1/s 3%
Wrist 3
2%
Half of Wnst 2'/.1
 HAPTER 8 SLEEVES

1"J

Draft the sleeve from the wnst to 1" below the armhole.

il
i
DROP
SHOULDER
BACK
MED
DROP
SHOULDER
FRONT
MED
DROP
SHOULDER
SLEEVE
MED
CUT2
••
CUT1 CUT1 I
I I I
I
I
Place the new shoulder line and seam wherever you would Separate and trace the pattern pieces as illustrated. I
••
like it.

••
••
••
''
tl
 S L EEVES CHAPTER 8 275

TOP
BLOCK
FRONT
MED
(date)
RAGLAN SLEEVES

This draft is for a raglan sleeve for stretch fabrics only.

Place the front and back top slopers together at the
shoulders.

Draw a straight line through the underarm points.

Continue the line a few inches past the underarm points.

Place the sleeve sloper on the draft, matching three points:

1. The front underarm point of the sleeve lines up on the guideline.
2. The shoulder notch of the sleeve lines up with the shoulder seam.
3. The back underarm point of the sleeve lines up with the guideline.
You will have to move your sleeve around until it lines up perfectly with all
three points.
Don't worry if your sleeve goes over the armhole of the body, because you
will correct this in the next step.
Don't worry if your sleeve looks slightly different than this one.
the arm of the body, be-
Don't worry if your sleeve doesn't come as f ar as
cause you will correct this in the next step.
 276 CHAPTER 8 SLEEVES

add the amount that

the sleeve over1aps

~~•dM••~·

~·

Measure the amount that the sleeve overlaps the armhole If the sleeve does not reach the armhole seams of the
seam of the slopers and add this amount to the bottom of slopers, then the sleeve will get longer and must be short-
the sleeve to compensate for length. ened by that amount.

the
follow

the ••
body/
sleeve
intersectJon•• t

I
Draw the raglan seam goin f
line to the point where th ~ rom any place on the neck-
e s eeve and bodies intersect. Continue the raglan style line to the underanm potnt.
 277
SLEEVES CHAPTER B

RAGLAN RAGLAN
BACK FRONT
MED MED
CUT 1 CUT1

:...............
;

Note: The sleeve will follow one curve and the bodies will Notch the pieces for easy construction and then label,
follow the opposite curves. trace, and separate the pieces.

. position the de-

The ragline seams may be placed 1n any
sign requires.
 CHAI'l t H tl SLEEVES

Sleeve Assignments
. · from this text and other chapters
Using the mfor~at~~:eves. It is a good idea to sew up thes~
dt·aft some pract~c:t the look like. Now that you have a little
samples to see w tt. y drafting for knit fabrics, you should
more expen ence pa ern .
be able to dt·aft. any of the followmg sleeves.
COWL SLEEVES . . .
Draft a cowl sleeve, using the informatlOn m Chapter 5, Skirts.

SPLIT SLEEVES
D ft this sleeve with a slit opening down the center of the
sl::ve. Sew the siit closed for 1" at the top, 2" at the bottom,

~I
and hem the slit with a 1" hem allowance.
I.
Split sleeve CAR-WASH SLEEVES
Draft a car-wash sleeve by splitting the sleeve into many sec-
\__ __) tions. Double the width of each section so the sleeve can be
clean finished by sewing the sections into tubes and turning
them inside out.
PETAL SLEEVES
I
Draft a petal or tulip sleeve that overlaps on the front portion
of the sleeve.
Draft this asymmetrical style with a short flared sleeve
''
and binding on the other armhole.
Practice this asymmetrical st yle with a sh ort capped
sleeve and a slip neckline on the other side.

Test Your Knowledge of the

Material in This Chapter
1. How much should you reduce the armhole depth mea-
surement for a deep cap?
2. How much should you reduce the armhole depth mea-
surement for a medium cap?
3. How much should you reduce the armhole depth mea-
surement for a shallow cap?
4. Why should the patternmaker wait until after the body
is fitted and corrected before drafting the sleeves?
Petal sleeve 5. How should you check the amount of ease in a sleeYe cap?
6. What is the minimum amount of ease?
7. What is the maximum amount of ease?
8. How can you increase the amount of ease?
9. How can you decrease the amount of ease?
10. How can you create a flared sleeve?
1 1. How can you create a short sleeve?
 ~-----~C~H~A~P~T~E~R~~9L______
Sweaters

About This Chapter

Sweaters are not just for fall and winter c0 11 t·
·
become an 1rnpor t ant part of every season L. echtIOns,
. but have
· 1 d d · · lg we1g11t sweat-
ers are me u e m many collection s for s pnng · and summer
Note that some sweaters are worn directly 0 n the sk 111,. w1t· h.
only undergarments,
. whereas
. other sweaters a re worn over
other clothmg. The desig.ner must anticipate and desi 11 the
fit of each sweater accordmgly. g
This chapter introduces the reader to th e patternmaking
techniques for creating sweaters. There are three different
methods of constructing sweaters. Each sweater looks similar
when viewed from the outside, but differences become appar-
ent when you closely inspect the seam finishes.
All sweaters still need hard paper (oak-tag) patterns, and
even though fully-fashioned sweat ers will knit to shape, they
still need an oak-tag pattern for testing fittings and blocking.
Most manufacturers will knit yardage, cut the sweater sam-
ple out, and complete the fitting a nd any corrections before
adding the expense of programming the computer to knit the
pieces to sh ape.
There is another difference between sweaters and other
knit tops. Next time you notice someone wearing a sweat er,
study the armhole seam. You will notice that it ext ends
straight up to the shoulder and does not curve outwards at
the top, as in T-shirts and other knit tops.

279
 ..'SO C'HAPTER 9 SWEATERS

Industrial Knitting
Industrial knitting machines are capa-
ble of producing sweaters on a very large
scale. Extremelv fast. these machines
are prog1·ammed. by computer and automati-
call} make all the necessary increases and
decreases. such as stitch changes and color
changes.
SDS-ONE
Software for an industrial knitting machines user station.
The technician uses a mouse and/or tablet to create the
garment silhouette, stitch formations, increases, and de-
creases, which are then sent to large industrial machines
for knitting.

...
••
•.
.
••
••
I
The hand knitting machine is a great tool for creating
I
The kn it linker is a machine used for joining knit garment
sweaters on a smaller scale, one or two, and useful for de- pieces together.
•
veloping stitches. It is also an excellent tool for students
to teach them about knit structure, and stitch types. ' •
 281
SWEATERS CHAPTER 9

E
2U)
"""
.. .0

KNIT HEM FINISH KNIT HEM FINISH

RIB

Armhole Changes For Sweater Knits

Slopers for sweaters are slightly different from slopers for
other tops; for example, the armhole is knit straight up, rather
than curved.
Next time you notice someone wearing a sweater, study
the armhole seam, you will notice that it extends straight up
to the shoulder and does not curve outwards at the top, as in
t-shirt and other knit tops.
This is done for three reasons:

So that the knitter does not h ave to increase stitches and can
simply knit straight up the armhole to the shoulder, for
easier knitting, especially when knitting Fair Isle, intar- Regular curved armho le.
sia, and other complex patterns.
So that the horizontal stretch of the fabric is reduced, there-
fore the armhole does not stretch out of shape when attach-
ing the sleeves.
So that any visible stripes or ribs-remember th~ ~tn{ 00
sweater s are made out of rib and larger yarn _t da ,ts
. ht d out and 1t oesn ere-
like ver~ical lines-are straJg ene lders when the stripes
ate a tnangle on the top 0~ the shouk dd and out of place.
or ribs meet. This little tnangle loo s 0
. aters or garments with a
Note: This is only done ':1th sv:eht .ght jersey fabrics for
visible vertical stripe or nb, so h g welt"
t-shirts do not require this sloper correc Jon.
Sweater with straight armhole.
.'~.' <' llAt' l E A 9 SWEATERS

Three Ways to Create a Sweater

tash1onmp (1) FULLY FASHIONED
marks I
Full fashioning is like hand knitting in that the manufacturer knits the gar-
ment parts to shape by casti ng on and casting off stitches. This method of
creating sweaters is very expensive because each size and style requires a
new schematic, knit plan, or knitting instructions. Fully-fashioned sweaters
can be identified by the fashioning marks on the outside and the knit linking
together the inside seams.
Note: When creating "fully fashioned" garments, the trims, bands, and col-
lars needed to fin ish the garment must also be fully fashioned. They can be
knit as single layers; it is not necessary to fold them over, as the raw edge
KNIT HEM FINISH KNIT HEM FINISH will already be finished by the knitting machine, by casting on or casting off
the stitches.

(2) CUT AND SEW

The designer purchases the knitted goods by the yard. This method of cre-
ating sweaters is the least expensive because the fabric can be purchased
in bulk and used to create a variety of styles and sizes by using different
oak-tag patterns.

These sweaters can be identified by sewn hems and machine serging on the
inside seams.

(3) SWEATER BLANKS

•
This is the most common method of manu-
facturing sweaters. The designer can create ••
DOES NOT NEED TO BE CAST OFF
_j
the t ype of knit, including hem finish, choose
the yarn, and have the goods knitted only to
the length of the sweater pattern needed. The
••
KNIT IN STRIPE OR
DESIGN
manufacturer then places the oak-tag patterns
on the sweater b lank, lining up the bottom of
il
•
the patterns w ith the hem of the sweater blank
to cut them o ut. The designer can create differ-
ent sizes easily u sing different graded oak-tag
....
10-001
MED
10-001
patterns. These sweaters can be identified by
the knitted hems combined with the serged ..
....
MED
1 SELF seams on the inside.
1 SELF

I I
Note that the garment m ay have a ribbed,

••
tubular, or finished hem.

plaoe on top of The manufacturer can easily create horizontal

sweater blank plaoe on top of
sweater blank stripes b y changing the color of yarn while knit-
to cut out
to cut out ting the row, or create Fair Isle or any type of
knit design that the designer imagines.
II

KNIT HEM FINISH

Thi s type of sweater manufacturing is espe-
cially well suited for complex stitches such as
Fair Isle, pointelle, and tuck stitches, because
..'
the complexity of the knitting is reduced and
the knit technician does not have to detenn're
increases and decreases for the anmholes an<l
neckline.
''
 SWEATERS CHAPTER 9
283

SWEATER BLANK SLEEVES

Illustration shows how sleeves are cut from 10-001

sweater blanks MED
1 SELF
The extra rib, or finished hem between the
sleeves may be used to cut out the collar.
Or the neckline may be re-at tached to the
knitting machine and the collar may be knit.

L
CASTON EDGE

_)
Another variation of cut and sew:

The sweater b lank is kn it to the exact width of the sweater panel, reducing
the need for side seam fi nishing.

The sweater seam s may be linked with a linking machine, or sewn with a 10-001
straight stitch. MED
1 SELF
Theses side seams require 1/a" seam allowance, while the shoulders and
armholes require %" seam allowance, and no hem allowance needs to be
added to the pattern .
I
place on top of
sweater blank
to rut out

1
KNIT HEM FINISH

Illustration shows the alternative technique for knitting sweater blanks.

e pattern and will need to
The sleeve is knitted to the widest part of t he s Ieev '
· earn and armhole.
be serged to finish the raw edges ofthe 1ns
"th increases and decreases along
Alternatively, the sleeve may be shaped WI d left raw for cut and sew.
the inseam, while the cap may be knit straight up an

The sleeve requires %" seam allowance.

 $4 CHAPTER 9 SWEATERS

Seam Allowances for Different

Methods of Construction
Each of the different methods of construction requires dif£
ent seam allowance amounts. Seams that are finishes er.
as fully fashioned only need a 1/a", or single stitch sea such
lowance, while any garment part that is cut out require: a].
locking with %" seam allowance. over

cast on edge FULLY FASHIONED

FULLY FASHION COLLAR : 1/8"
1/8"
,_
I MED KNIT 1

1/8"
:
- ----------------------- ---'
Fully fashioned patterns do not need a hem
allowance, s1nce the hem is already finished
on the kn1tt1ng machine, and should simp! b
1/8" 1/8" indicated on the pattern. Y e
1/8" : ·--,
Seam allowances are one stitch wide, ,18,. on
',
·- 1/8" 1/8" / 1/8" all other seams, or seams that will be linked
sewn together. · or

The trim
. should also be knit with finished edges
so tnms and collars may be single layer or '
FULLY FASHIONED double layer 11 you requ ire thicker trims.

r,
: FULLY FASHIONED :
SWEATER
FRONT
: SLEEVE ! Trim measurements should be indicated on the
' MED !mal patterns.
MED
KN IT2 •
You may not need to create patterns for fully-
fashioned collars, since the sweater will be
1/8" 1/8" 1/8" hooked up to the knitting machine to knit the
collar.

no hem allowance
 SWEATERS CHAPTER 9 285

3/8"
-----,

3/8" ---~-- -- cu~~~~~Ew-- -----\

3/8"
--- ----- _Mt;P_~-lli_1 ________ ;
CUTANDSEW
3/8"
Cut and sew sweaters need sea
tor the over-lack mach in m allowances 3/8" • --
edges. e, to finish the raw
3/8"
They also need a hem allowance . 3/8" 3/8" 318"
must be sewn by hand or m h' • Since the hem
ac 1ne.
All collars, trims, and bands must b
-,
(folded over). e doubled
CUT AND SEW
SWEATER CUT AND SEW
FRONT SLEEVE

r
MED MED
3/8' CUT2
3/8"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - .J
.--------------'.
1 1/2" hem allowance 1 1/2" hem
allowance

cast on edge
; rULLY FASHION COLLAR ;
3/8" ; MED CUT 1 ; 3/8"
,_-- ------------------- --- ---..!
3/8"
SWEATER BLANKS 3/8" ,. ..... 3/8"

Sweaters cut from sweater blanks do not need

a hem allowance, because the hem finish is al- 3/8" 3/8" 3/8" 3/8"

ready included on the blank and should simply :

be indicated on the pattern.
If the blank is knitted the exact width of the
sweater, it will need a 'Ia" seam allowance at the FULLY FASHIONED FULLY FASHIONED !
sides. SWEATER SLEEVE
FRONT MED

r
If the sweater blank is knit larger than the blank, MED CUT 2
then it should have a %" seam allowance for
overlocking (serging). 3/8"
3/8"
If the trim is cut from a finished edge, it does not
need to be folded over.
If the trim is cut from the body of the fabric, then
it must be doubled.
no hem allowance no hem allowance
 ~86 CHAPTER 9 SWEATERS

H SWEATER BLANKS
KN IT-TO-WIDT 't I 0 the exact bo dy Width , 1t1s not necessary to over-
318"
Whenthe
lock a sweater IS knl
seams, therefore a 'Ia" seam allowance IS all that IS needed for the
'des of the body. . ,
Sl armholes, shoulders, and neckline will
The requ~re a% seam allowance,
. the must be over-locked.
FULLY FASHIONED
SWEATER Since
No Y
hem allowance . e the hem will already be f1n1shed on the
is necessary smc
FRONT knitting machine.
MEO
. n is especially useful when creatmg Fa1r Isle and
CUT 1 This type of constructlo .
. the kn1tter can s·l mply focus on the pattern1ng techniques
1/8" 1/8"
without having to worry or fuss WI'th the shaping techniques.
patterned des1 gns,

1
match
underarm points
no hem allowance

MATCHING STRIPES
To match the stripes of a knit garment, line
up the underarm points.

Sweater Slopers
SLOPERS FOR SWEATER KNITS

Slopers for sweaters are slightly different from slopers for other tops, for You must make the armhole and side
example, the armhole shaping. seams follow the visible rib or stripe. or
else the shoulder seam will look strange.
Use the knit top sloper, with all three of the different sleeves and cap heights.
The little triangle w111 stretch out of shape
When using a visible stripe or rib, the designer or patternmaker must make when attaching the sleeve becauseew- of
corrections to the top slopers before they can be used for sweaters. the way that nbs stretch out while s tty.
ing and the sleeve will not hang correc
 SWEATERS CHAPTER g
287

remove this sectJon

from the armhole

Trace the moderate knit (50 % stretch) top back sloper

(most sweater fabrics are moderate knit).
Square up the armhole parallel to the center back, from
the narrowest part of the armhole straight up to the shoul-
der, as indicated.
Also straighten the side seams to create an unfitted gar-
ment. When using a visible stripe or rib, you don't want the
rib to stretch out or have unm atc hed c hevrons.
Since the shoulders and armholes are identical, you can
create a back sloper and change the neckline to create the
front sloper.
To create the front sloper, trace out the back sloper and
change the neck by lowering it the amount of the shoulder
pitch, and drawing in a new front neckline.

Extra Extra
Extra Extra
Small Medium Large Large Extra Large
Extra Small Small
1 V2 1 V2 1% 1%
NECK 1% 1 V2

1st LAYER 1st LAYER

SWEATER SWEATER
SLOPER SLOPER
FRONT
BACK
MED MED

never for rib

ers are created as illustrated to take up

Otten sweater sIo P
ater slopers. Jess materials and oak-tag .
Trace and separate the swe . be worn
" ning that they WI 11
Label them as " first layer, mea derneath.
. . d rments un
With noth1ng but un erga . but it should
. . rsey kmts, d
You may use the fitted wa1st on Je e it will stretch out an
· ts becaus "d earns.
not be used for ribbed wals • ·ng the s1 e s
. when seWI
create huge exaggerated hipS
 288 CHAPTER 9 SWEATERS

THE SWEATER SLEEVE SLOPER . armhole, and must reflect the

The sleeve sloper must be corrected to Ill the new

v slight changes.
. I eve sloper with me
Use the moderate kmt s e
dium cap height.

Reduce orenla rge the sleeve to fit the new arm

hole by removing the excess frorn

~
the inseams. . r for the sweater sleeve.
Remember that ease is still necessa Y
Minimum ease = 112'' total.
reduceslee~
atfle underarm
. ease = 'Y." total.
Max1mum · d on the cap of the sleeve ' with half of the ease
Mark the amount of ease reqwre
. "de of the shoulder notch.
on e1ther Sl . s· it makes it slightly easier to attach
W' ease is better for fully-fashioned s1eeve '
the sleeve with the linker.

/
I /
/
/ I
I
I
I
Measure and mark the ease amount equally on either side
of the sleeve notch. When the sleeve reaches the new underarm side-seam
point, mark with a pencil the amount that the sleeve ex-
Start outside the ease marks, ignoring the ease amount. tends past the armhole.
Walk the sleeve around the armhole to the underarm.

-
ease
Remove the excess amount from the sleeve.

This amount of the correction is usually so small that it can safely be removed
from the underarm of the sleeve. If it is large-more than V2" -it must be cor-
rected by slash and spread (see Chapter 8, Sleeves).

Do not change the width at the wrist; rather, taper to nothing as shown.

If your sleeve happens to be smaller than the armhole, either change the amount of
ease to W' or enlarge the sleeve so that it now fits the armhole (excludiOQ ease).
 SWEATER S C H APT E R 9
289

1st LAYER
3rd LAYER
SWEATER SLEEVE
2nd LAYER SWEATER
SLOPER
SWEATER SLOPER
MED 1st LAYER
SWEATER SLOPER FRONT
SLOPER FRONT MED
FRONT MEO
MEO
increase Increase
by 2" by 2"

Trace and label the sweater sieper.

FIRST OR SECOND LAYER SLOPERS FOR SWEATERS
You may leave the faint pencil marks to indicate the ease
amount, for future reference.

First layer sweater slopers create garments that have

u;
nothing except undergarments worn underneath; for cj
example, summer-weight knits, dresses, and tops
that are worn "next to the skin."
Second layer slopers or jacket slopers are used
when the designer wants to create styles intended to
be worn over other clothing, such as pullovers and
cardigans, so the size must inc rease to accommo-
date the clothing underneath.
Third layer slopers create sweaters that are worn
over other sweaters; for example, zip-front cardi-
gans, sweater coats, and the like.
All are still size Medium; however, they are size
Medium intended to be worn over other garments. increase the total body cira.unference by 2"
The first layer sweater sloper will be increased in
width a total of 2", or '12'' per panel, to create a sec-
ond layer or jacket sloper for sweaters.
Repeat or double the measurements for third layer
slopers.
 ,90 CHM'TE:R 9 SWEATERS

1/8
moddte of the shoulder 1/8
1/8
"'
112 1/2

1/8

1/8 1/8
optional
length
increase
1'a:.._~_::"_::
' ~""1/8
increase by 1/2"

WIDTH INCREASES LENGTH INCREASE

Make the increases to the back sloper, and simply change To apply the length increases:
the neckline to create the front sloper. Draw a line parallel to the shoulder approximately 31<'' in
To apply the width increases: from the shoulder (increase by 'Ia per panel).

Draw a line parallel to the side seams approximately %" in
from the side seam (increase by 'Ia" per panel).
Draw a vertical line through the shoulder approximately
half-way (increase by '/4' per panel).
Draw a vertical line 1" in from the front along the neck edge
(increase by 'Ia" per panel).
Slash and spread accordingly.
Draw a horizontal line through the armhole area, approxi-
mately half way through the armhole (increase by '12 per
panel).
For additional length increase, draw a ho rizontal line below
the waist notch (increase by 'Ia per panel).
Slash and spread accordingly.

·---~~-: :',:
r: __ _ . /; ;

1/8
1/8 '

1/8 1/4 ! 1/8 1/4

112 1/2 1/2

! 112 1/2 1/2\ ··--

1/8 1/4 1/8

i,::: 1/8 114 1~

!,
~:!':
.
:
1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8
il 1/8 118 118 ':
i
1/8 1/4 1/8
iL__.....___________..______1~j
118 1/4

Both directions of increases should look like the illustration

BLENDING AND TRUEING THE SLOPERS
Slash and spread these areas by the amounts illustrated. ·
Straighten out the shoulder by drawing a new straight line
from neck to armhole and ignore any discrepancies.

Blend the armhole, neck, and underarm areas.

Label as "jacket slopers" or " second layer slope!' for

sweaters."
 SWEATERS CHAPTER 9
291

1/8

118 114

112 1/2

.,

.. '" 'l',
!118 118 1/8

! 118 114 1~
~~ ··----------------------.!
SECOND LAYER SLOPER FRONT
SECOND LAYER SWEATER SLEEVE SLOPERS
Draw the front neckline below t he front using the c hart To find the increase areas for the sleeve, line up the sleeve
below. with the body as illustrated, and match the increase areas
accordingly.
It is possible, and easier, to increase half of the sleeve and
copy to the other side, or draft it on the fold of your paper
and open it up to trace onto oak-tag.

1/8 118

·.
112 112 112

118 118
·.

:....... .........................'
1/8 118 118 118
Blend the sleeve as illustrated.
Mark the sleeve to correspond to the body, as shown.
You can use the original sleeve sloper as a template to
Slash and spread once above the elbow notch. blend the curved parts of the new sleeve.
Slash and spread once below t he e lbow notch.
·11 trated to match
Slash and spread the s leeve sloper as 1 us '
the body increases.

Extra Extra
Extra Medium Large Large Extra Large
Extra small
Extra Small small 1%
1% 1% 1'\4
1 Y2 1%
Neckline Drop 1 Y2
 CHAt'TER 9 SWEATERS

·iI
!

2ND lAYER
SWEATER
SLEEVE
MED

I
\
\
L SLOPER SHIFTING TO CREATE SECOND LAYER
Walk the sleeve around the arm hole to check for accuracy.
SLOPERS
Label as "jacket sloper" or "second layer sloper for
It is not always necessary to slash and spread to create
sweaters."
second layer slopers. You may simply sh1ft the regular
sloper the requi red amount and trace each part as 1t IS
enlarged; see the following:
Trace out the back neck section for approximately 1".

~ ,..
.... . T.
r-'Y
I I
y
I
I
I
I ' I I
I I I
I I 1
I 1 I I
--r-----r
--~----~

I..
I
I I 1
I I I
I I 1
I I 1
I I I
I I I
I I I
I I I I
I ' I I I
I I I
I I I
I

r:
I I
I
I

i I
I
I

.:
I
J.
I

1
---..J-.--
I
I
~f-
1
I
I I
I
I
I I 1 ,---~-----i
I I I
I I I I I I
I I
l I • I I

Shift the sloper to the left, 1/a", as illus-
trated, and trace out the next section
of the neck.
: :
Shift the sloper up 'Ia" and trace out Shift the sloper out '/4' as illustrated
the next section of the neck and the and trace the next section ofthe shout-
corner intersection.
der, the shoulder corner intersection.
Because the neck will be blended with
a ruler in a straight line, it is not neces-
sary to draw the entire shoulder, just
the corners.
 SWEATERS CHAPTER 9 293

... ·r"' --
j. lI 0 . . ·r. . . . ''
--~ ----~ ''
' ' ''
'' '' -··r- - - - -r
'''
''
'''
'''
'
'' ~"i \ ''
'
I'
'
I
I
I
'
I
I
!
'
'
l
'' ''
I I
'' i
' I '' ' '
I

:----:-----i
I :
' ' :
I : I I : I

' ' ''

,----:-----:.. ,----:--- -:-
''
I ''
I :'
'I' '
I'
''I : : :
'
I '
1 '
I ! l l

Shift the sloper down 'Ia" and trace the Shift the sloper down another 'h'' and Shift the sloper out 'Ia" and trace the
next section of the sloper. trace out the next sections. remainder of the underarm and the
corner intersection.
Indicate the waist notch.

--
,(' , ......:•'
/
,1~ ,"' I I

t '
I

t-J--~----t
I
I

--~----~
'
I
I
I
I
I
\ l
;;; --:-----r
:
:
1

~ '
I '
o '' (
I;
I
'
'
,
I I ''
'' '' '' 1:I! i, i,
'' '' ''' '' '
'' ''' ''
'' '' ''' ''
' '
' ' ' ij-- : !
''
I
''0 ' I
I

'''I ___ JI
I
! ! !
,' :---:-----i
I : I I
I I : ----1-
1 :---:-----i I I
'' ' '
'' ''' :'
L I.....,..
:' '' L : : • 1
'' I
' 114
' \18

Shift the sloper back Yo'' and trace that Shift the sloper back '/4' and trace that
Shift the sloper down 'Ia" and trace section of the hem.
portion of the hem.
to the hem and the hem corner
intersection.
 ~ CHAPTER 9 SWEATERS

...,
i'J ~

+'"

I I! it

l· l
Shift the sloper back up ''•" and trace Shift the sloper up '/4' and trace the
that port1on of the center back. last portion of the center back.
l ~-

The sloper should have traveled a full

Sh1ft the sloper over e and trace the circle and be back at the same point
rema1n1ng section of the hem. and the that it originated.
corner

To blend: To create the front sloper:

Connect the shoulders, s1de seams, and hems with a
straight line.
Blend the neck and underarm, using the original sloper as
a curve template, so that the new sloper retains the original
curves.
Trace out the back sloper and make changes to the neck
as illustrated.
Lower the neck 1'/e" and bend a new neck.
Or use the original neckline as a template.

Note that it may look as if the neck has increased by a total To indicate the fitted waist, trace the side seam from the
of '14', but after blending it should have only increased by original sloper.
%" due to the nature of the curves.
Repeat for the front sloper.

Extra Extra
Extra Small Extra Extra
Small Small Medium Large Large Extra Large_
Neckline Drop
1V. 1% 1% 1% H4 1~
 SWEATER S C HAPTER 9 295

-----~
'
I
I
I I
2nd LAYER I I
SWEATER ~-------4-
1 I
SLOPERS I I
I I
MEO I I
I
I 'I II
I I
I
I I
..1 ''
I

-----T-
1 I
I

I I
I I
I I
I I
Alternate method of cutting out sweater slopers: 'I II
I I
To save space and oak-tag, place front and back together
as illustrated.

Fold on the fold line of center/front and center/back. In

SLOPER SHIFTING TO CREATE SECOND LAYER
order to use these slopers, you must trace the back twice SLEEVE SLOPER$
and the front twice, using the center as the fold line.
The sleeve sloper may be increased on the fold on light
paper, as half, then opened and traced onto oak-tag.
Trace the first section of the sleeve as indicated.

1/8
.....

-----1-1
I
I
I
I /:
-----1-1I
I I
I
I
I I I I
I I I I
\o--------1-
1 I ~-------+-
I I 'I
II
I I I I
I I I I
I I I I
I I I I
I I I I
I I
I I
I I
I I
I
\-----.,-
I
I ,_____,II
I
1 I I I
I I I I
I I I I
I I I I
I I I I
I I I I
I I I I
I I I I

Shift the sloper out 'Ia" and trace as

Shift the sloper out 1/a" and trace the Shift the sloper down ""
'' and trace
indicated.
next section. next section.
 ,'HAf'T[R !l SWEATERS

~,

.•.

Shift the sloper down '18. Shift the sloper back in and trace. Shift the sloper in 'Is".

Shift the sloper back up '18 and trace

Shift the sieper up 'Is".
as 1nd1cated. Shift the sieper up '14" as indicated and
you should have gone a full circle and
be exactly where you started.

Cut out the paper sieper on the fold,

and open it up and trace again onto
oak-tag.

Always cut the sleeve full/ open, and do

not put a crease in your sleeve sieper,
as it will wear out along that edge too
fast.
 SWEATER S CHAPTER 9
297

To match the stripes of the body to the stripes of the

MATCHING STRIPES
Match the stripes of any design at the underarm , as
illustrated.
Note: You cannot match from the bottom because the
sleeve will often be much longer than the body.
sleeves, lay the front pattern on the striped fabric and
draw faint lines to indicate the stripe placements.
Walk the sleeve pattern around the body pattern and
match the sleeve stripe at the underarms as illustrated.

Seam Allowances for Sweaters

This manual illustrates all sweater drafts with a hem allow-
ance, even though fully fashioned sweaters or those cut from
sweater blanks do not need the hem a llowance added.
This manual also illustrates all completed patterns on the
fold, which is not acceptable for production patterns.

Cut and Sew Sweater Blanks Fully Fashioned

Side seam %" four-thread serger %- four-thread serger One stitch seam
allowance 'Ia"
Armhole and sleeves 'Ia" four-thread serger %- four-thread serger One stitch seam
allowance 'Ia"
Shoulders 'Ia" four-thread serger 'Ia" tour-thread serger One stitch seam
With twill tape, or c lear With twill tape, or clear allowance >,•
elastic to prevent the elastic to prevent them
shou lders from stretching, from stretching, for
for styles with sleeves only. styles w ith sleeves.
four thread serger
%" four-thread serger 'Ia" four-thread serger One stitch seam
Neckline and collars
allowance ' •
No hem allowance No hem allowance
Hem 1 W' for hand hem or
needed for sweater blanks, for fully fashioned
blind hem
since the hem is already since the hem is
knit in. already knit.
 .'~~ \ HAf'l ER 9 SWEATERS

:I I'
:I I·
•I 1:
I ·
:I I ',
•I I .
: I I:
. I I .
·. I 1 .'
'. I I;
._1

STYLE II 10-001 TURTLENECK SWEATER

A turt n ~- .,.,.._.Jtl. •"• "' th~ s•mptest of at sweater Decide whether you want a f1tted. semi-fitted, or unfitted
patt~rns to araft wa1st for your design.

The collar IS s1mply a long rectangle that IS folded over and You'll probably desire the unfitted wa1st for a pullover, so
attached to the neck 1t's easier for the customer to put on and off.

Turtlenecks can be createa for <,rst, second, or th.rd layer

slopers

-...
nedd :1e measurement total neckline measuremmt
• ~

.. :c:
~
!:
g> :;;
.c: :!1
g> ~
0
"
£ ~ 1:
fold line Ill
:!2
foldline
~
a .c:s"
Cl>
"' ,g "
.c:

..
4:
(.) .S1
.Q .S1
:;;
0
ii "'
.Q

~c: "'.S1" ,
.S!
.0
.g" 1: :c:0> .g
1l c: 1l
.. .. .. ~T· - ..
..
~

Draft the collar double the height of the required collar

.
stnce it will be folded over and both raw edges will be
sewn to the neckline of the sweater.

Draft the collar pattern any height desired, but remember

that any collar higher than 4" will be pushed down by the
jaw.
..
Trace out the appropriate sloper.
Measure the front and back neckline of th e soper.
The collar should have only one seam, either at the center
~ack, or preferably lined up with the left shoulder seams.
herefore, the neckline measurement must be doubled, ••
,•
1
because you've only measured half of the neckline.

•.
•
 SWEATERS C HAPT ER 9 299

#10-001 COLLAR
MED
~ CUT1 SELF
-..-"""~-
\
_,.
~
.,.
Since the neck .is wider at the b ase than at th t
the exact neckline measurement from t e op, using Or simply remove approximately 'h " from each end of the

..,.,
a collar that gapes at the top. he draft woll create collar pattern .

.,.
To correct this, pinch out the extra amo The top of the collar is now smaller and will fit snug to the
and remove that amount from the unt, measure it, neckline.
pattern as illustrated.

.,.
.,.
The collar should be left with this extra fabric w
a zopper, since the z1pper will scratch th
.
~en Inserting
e wearers neck.
The edge that attaches to the sweater is also smaller and
must be stretched to fit into the neckline of the sweater.

--...
.,.
...-
:------------------------,
I

I
#1 0-001 COLLAR

OJT~~ELF
~~~;::---- --------------- 1
-4
I
I

......,.
.,. ............ \
(........... ' ......
..
I

,:n '
I
I

:!r
,a. /
I
I

Cliilfi8 I
I
I
/
I
I #10.001

: I FRONT

......
I MED
I I
CUT1 SELF

.-.a I I
I

u' l
I
I
~ I
I
I
I
I
I

..........
I
I
I
;.I_ _ _ __J-lI I
L. L - - - - -

~-- ----- - ---:

I I
'---------- -'
COLLAR CORRECTIONS
Add seam allow ances and label the pattern.
If your fabric does not stretch enough for the collar to
Note that fully fashioned or sweaters cut from sweater
pull on over the head, then you have several adj ustment
blanks should not have hem allowance added.
options.
Fully-fashioned sweaters should only have a " one-stitch " Insert a zipper or other closure in the collar.
seam allowance, o r 'Is".

....
~

.............
~
~

...
 300 CHAPl Lt1 9 SWEATERS

Enlarge the collar and ease it into the

Enlarge the neckline and the colla r
accordingly; however, the collar will sit
away from the neck.
Use a contrast fabric, o ne that
stretches more, for the collar. neckline, for very small amounts only,
to avoid puckering of the collar seam.

u:
0

STYLE # 10-002 SWEATER WITH OVER-SIZED

Decide how w ide you wish the nec kline to be and mark
TURTLENECK OR TUBULAR COLLAR
accordingly.
A tubular cowl neck sweater may be created by widening
Stay at least '12'' in from the armhole so the sleeve seam
the neck opening and drafting a larger collar.
allowance doesn 't show.

u:
rj

Draw in the new neckline, staying as high or close to the original neckline as
:1 possible, and square for %" at the shoulders, to blend.
:(
\
 SWEATERS CHAPTER 9 301

#10-001 COLLAR
MED
( loldllne J CUT 1 SELF
Draw the collar accord ing to the new me
necessary. asurements; no reductions are ("
,.
In addition, when constructing this garment
towances are toward the outside of the ar~serge.the collar so the seam at-
the collar and would otherwise she g .ent, Since they will be hidden b
w on the InSide. Y
0
"' j u;
(,)

#10-002
BACK #10-002
FRONT

r~"'
~
CUT1 SELF

"'

STYLE # 10 -003 OFF-THE-SHOULDER SWEATER

Walk the sleeve around the armhole to the shoulder seam.
This is an off-the-shoulder sweater.

Draw in the neckline as required.

Don't draw it too low in the back; otherwise it wtll droop,
Line the sleeve up with t he body.
ve since that portion and sag in the back.
Ignore any ease at the top of the slee . •
of the sleeve is not included in t he destgn.
 30~ CHAPTER 9 SWEATERS

1161h smaller for rib

A OULDER SWEATER
10-003 OFF-SHOULDER S\\'EATER
SLEEVE "-ED CUT 1 SELF
I fQIIJl 10S~~:::e~F;;:D CUT 1 RIB ONLY

.. l
..
n ..
() J I~
1(}{)03
OFF-SHOU..DER
SWEATER
BAO<
1(}{)03
OFF-SHOU.DER
sv.<OATER
SLEEVE
MEO
10-003
OFF-SHOU.DER
SWEATER
FRONT
MEO
"'
10-003
OFF-SHOULDER
10-003
OFF-S HOULDER
SWEATER
ir 10-003
'oFF-SHOULDER
SWEATER
MEO ClJT1 SLEEVE
ClJT 1 SWEATER FRONT
ClJT1 MED
BACK MED
CUT1
MED CUT 1

I
CUT1

Trace and separate the p1eces.

Draft the collar usmg the neckline measurements. I
If you wish the collar to fit snugly against the arms,
J

then reduce the collar pattern by one-sixth of the total

measurement.
-
I
The collar may be knit in matching rib (one-sixth smaller),
or sewn with elastic inserted into the collar to keep it snug
agai nst the body.
••
/
For fully-fashioned sweaters, mark the ribbing on the pat-
tern pieces. •

STYLE# 10-004 TUBULAR COLLAR IN

ASYMMETRICAL NECKLINE

A one-shoulder sweater may be created by following these

instructions.

10-004 MED CUT 1 -- J

/

,
()

.,
()

10-004
ASYMMETRICAL NECK
SWEATER
FRONT
M
CUT1

Draft any asymmetrical st 1 •

Draw the asymmetrical y ek With the sloper unfolded.
nee line as re · . Draft the collar us· th
pie bust coverage by k . qwred; g1ve am- mg e new neckline measurements.
underarm. eepmg the neckline high at the
 SWEATERS C HAPTER 9 303

10-004
ASYMMETRICAL NECK 10-004
ASYMMETRICAL NECK
SWEATER
FULLY FASHIONED
FRONT
SWEATER
M
FRONT
CUT1
M
CUT 1

If you wish the collar to fit snug against the arms, then
reduce the collar pattern by one-sixth of the total
measurement.
The collar may be knit in matching rib, or sewn on with
elastic inserted into the collar.
For fully-fashioned machine knit sweaters, draft the
patterns with the rib finish drawn onto the pattern, as
illustrated.
The rib is drawn onto the pattern and any half-scale pat-
terns since the sweater will be knit using the knit radar,
and is easier to follow in this manner.

neckline measurement

1/8"

u:
u

Draft the collar pattern to the heighV

STYLE #10-005 TURTLENECK
SWEATER WITH CENTER FRONT
ZIPPER
Zip-front turtleneck sweaters are
drafted similarly to the other turtle-
neck sweater.
Trace out the second layer sweater
sloper, since the cardigan will most
likely be worn over other clothing.
Because the width of the zipper teeth
ill add an extra '/4'' to the center front width desired.
w
('Ia" to each side of the card'1gan)• You The length is determined by the total
must move the center front notch In by neckline measurement.
Ya", from the center front. Do not reduce the collar like the turtle-
Later you will add 'Ia" seam allowan~e. neck draft, since there is a zipper in the
f ont but sew the front w1th V2 front that would be uncomfortable if
to each r · the
wance thereby us1ng up the collar was snug.
seam allo '
extra Y•"·
 04 C HA PTER 9 SWEATERS

~., 'l
'
''
\
bien~ 1
u.
t)

L Remove 'Ia" from the shoulder of the

Measure 1n and mark the shoulder 2'12''
from the neck. along the shoulder, and
square down for a few 1nches.
Measure 2''2" in from the center front,
along the hem, and square up to meet
the other line.
Blend a smooth curve along the facing
line.
Trace out the facing on a separate
piece of paper.
facing as indicated .
This will make the inside facing slightly
smaller than the outside, to accommo-
date the thickness of the fabric.

blend 1

ii
•
\ I
2.__
2 ~-

3 !!,"
II
()
II
a>
II
••
Create a back facing for this style by
~e~suring in 2'12'' at the shoulder, and
3 Yz at the center back.
Blend the back neck facing into a
smooth curve as illustrated.
Remove '12'' from the shoulder of the
facing as illustrated.
••
••
The back of the facing is lower to
prevent it from rolling up and com1ng
.
out when worn. It also provides extra
--
--
room for placing the label.

~ -
 305
SWEATERS CHAPTER 9

#10-Q01 COLLAR
MED PATTERN O PTION # 1
CUT 1 SELF
This pattern option may be used when the designer does
,____.............
not want a facing.

~ (
Cut the fusing 3/o" wide and as long as the front. This piece
will prevent the front from stretching while the zipper is be-
u: mg attached.
u
This option will show the exposed zipper tape when viewed
#10-001 from the inside.
#10-001
BACK
FRONT
MED MED
CUT 1 SELF
CUmELF

L_______________ _J t_________ _
BACK NECK
FACING
MED
1 SELF
PATTERN OPTION # 2
1 FUSE This option shows the pattern for the same sweater but
r··-----------~::~~~:~~~=~-----------1 w ith an inside facing that clean-finishes the inside front so
the zipper tape is not visible.
MED
CUT 1 SELF

L_------------------------------------- J

#10-001
BACK
MED
#10-001
FRONT
MED
uJ

"'"-::>
N
....
::>
()
0
uJ
::;;
z
t!>
iii
~II
FRONT FACING
MED
2 SELF
2 FUSE
CUT 1 SELF CUTiSELF ::>
"-
tr
w
ll.
ll.

w
N
....z
0
tr
"-

1------___j~ ~'------~

'' ----------
 306 CHAPTER 9 SWEATERS

#10-001 COLLAR
MEO
PATTERN OPTION# 3 CUT 1 SELF

This option shows the pattern with a front facing and no

back facing.
The back neckline seam is finished with neckline tape.
Note the tape measurement written along the back neck of
,../·,(.
UJ
the sweater. u. II)
::>
(.)
u.
"'...::>

·~· I
(.)
0
UJ
::;
#10-001 FRONT FACING
FRONT ~ MED
u;
Mf.Q ::> 2SELF
CUT 1 SELF u.
CUT 1 SELF
0::
2 FUSE
UJ
0..
0..
;;;
...z
0
0::
u.

!------~
,__________ ___ __ .,!
:------·
·--------------------
' '

#1 0-001 COLLAR
MED
PATTERN OPTION # 4

Use this option for sweaters cut from sweater blanks.

\. ~.-"' --·\
CUT 1 SELF

......
(r. . ~ .......
...
•' '
Do not add any hem allowance, since the hem will be knit
into the fabric. UJ
II)
::>
The collar may be cut single layer because the top edge is u. "'0UJ
finished by the knitting machine. ', ..."'::> ::;

There is no front facing . Instead, 1" wide knit stalling is

oo. u (!)
z
#10-001
~I ...~
used, and will be sewn to the inside of the zipper. Stelling
should be knit double jersey to prevent it from rolling.
Draw the ribbed hem onto the fully-fashioned pattern for
BACK
MEO
CUT 1 SELF
FRONT

CUT 1 SELF
(!)
z
u;
:::>
u.
z
"0::
0
......
......
0::
easier knitting. w <5
0..
0..
z
::;
;;;
Since most knitting starts from the hem upwards, it is easy ...z ...0

...
(/)
to see the hem amount in the knitting machine, using the 0
radar. 0::
u.

~
~
,,
,,
,
 SWEATERS C HAPT ER 9 307

PATTERN OPTION # 5
()
Use this option f f
'" u. or uffy-fashioned sweaters.
u
This sweater r
ing bee equ~res a smgle-st1tch seam allowance ('/8') for hnk1ng or sew-
ause there are no raw edges.
The rib or hem fi · h
up. lniS IS drawn onto the pattern, since 1t does not need to fold

Staffing may b k
should b . e nit to match the sweater. so a facing is not needed. Staffing
e kmt double jersey to prevent it from rolling .

C.F.

....
I
I
I
Cf
:
:
I

I
: button size
•• extension

• • r·
button size :
'
underlap :

The center should always be extended the width of the but-

STYLE # 10-006 CARDIGAN SWEATER
ton to make a "frame" equal to a half button w idth all the
The following illustrates the draft for a cardigan sweater, way around the button.
w ith a 112" button, thus a W' overlap.
 308 CHAPTER 9 SWEATERS
••
••
•w
•..
....
'
•u.
:u
'

- 2 Y,"
'
...
••
Extend the center front an amount equal to the width of the Create a facing as in Style #10-002.
button you plan on using. 2 '12'' in from the center front; consequently, 3 '12" from the
edge because of the extension.
2'12' along the shoulder.
3'12'' down the center back.
••
••
blend
•
\ :
y_
blend
\ :
'1 '

1
_){_ /''
blend
/'~ ()

() blend !» :u.;
!» 0' o(.)
•U:
c:
0'
c: :u -

Blend the facing line into a smooth curve.

Place the front on the folded ed ge of a piece of paper, as
illustrated, and trace the entire front. Also trace the front
facing lines.
 SWEATERS C HAPTER 9 309

Open up the paper as illustrated.

Remove Ve" from the shoulder edges of the facing. to ac-
count for the fact that the facing is on the inside and needs
to be slightly smaller than the outside.

#10-003
MED
CUT2 SELF
,
#10-003
MED
CUT2 FUSE
#10-003
MED
CUT 1 SELF

Add seam and hem allowances.

I '------------ -·
Create the back pattern pieces as illustrated.
If the pattern is cut and sewn, add a hem allowance as
Label as indicated. indicated.
Create a new pattern piece for the fusing as indicated.

STYLE # 10-009 V-NECK CARDIGAN WITH BAND FINISHING

A similar cardigan may be drafted with a band to finish the front edges.
The band may be knit in rib, as a single layer or a double layer, or it may be
cut and sewn as a double-layer.
 , 10 ~'H 'lf'llR 9 SWEATERS

3" 1/2"
__.

Draw 1n a V-neck.
The illustration shows the V extending 3" below the original
neckline, but the depth may be any measurement the
des1gner wants.
To determ1ne how low you wish to create the V-neck, mea-
sure down from the center front of the fitting Judy.
__.
112"
Extend the center front past the original center front by the
amount equal to the width of your button.
The illustration shows '12'' tor a 'N' button, but the button
may be any size the designer requires, as long as the cen-
ter front is extended an equal amount.

measure back neck

C:2
/discard these sections\

......
........
.......
-,.
.........
,...
Draw in the collar with the neck band parallel to the new
neckline.
Remove and discard the band sections from the draft.
Make the band double the width of the buttons (illustrated The band will be drafted as a new straight piece from the

..,.
at 1" for a \12" button).
neckline measurements and will be folded in half when
sewn.

To make the back neck lie flat at the back collar, and not
stand up in the air, make it smaller than the back neckline
and stretch it slightly to fit the neck edge.
iiA

-
Reduce the back neck portion of the collar by one-third of
the neckline measurement.

Or simply measure the smaller, upper portion of the back

neck curve and use that measurement.
 SWEATERS CHAPTER 9
311

318" 318

~s·

c. .·\.,
3/8"
-·······: 318"
: 3/8"

~2 \
·, E~

H
.:ocl1ii Ii 316" 318"

~~!i
~ ~
8i~
~ ~a 31e·

H ~~
5g

Draft the neckband pattern from the length of the total
neckline, the neck edge of the discarded pieces.
Place a notch to correspond with the shoulder seam, so
you will know when to start stretching the collar band.
:______________ !
---------------·
318" 318"
Because knit fabrics are looser than woven fabrics and
easily fray and unravel, use %" seam allowances and a
four-thread serger for construction.
Do not cover-stitch a sweater knit hem-it will stretch out
of shape and not lie flat.
Use a blind hemmer or hand sew the hem.
Use a 1 '12' hem allowance for hand hems.
Note that the band does not extend beyond the bottom of
the garment, and is only as long as the outside portion of
the front. II will not be folded up with the hem.

I
d
:\
·. \
_\

STYLE# 10-010 BOAT NECK SWEATER

y," seam allowance.
For fully fashioned sweaters, add 8 A boat neck is one of the simplest necklines to draft and
"bb d trim and link it onto
It is possi ble to knit the band as n e sew.
the front. .
h·oned
1 sweaters; JUS!
Do not add hem allowance to fully-las
indicate the hem amount with a line.
 ~1.' ,'HAP1 f:R P SWEATERS

2" ;r
:--...
r
h
I l f~
II II II
II JI II

rII
I u
I
Find a placement for the ends of the boatneck and mark Square a line from the center front to meet the marks on
The 1llustrat1on shows 2" from the neck. but 1! may be any the shoulder.
measurement the des1gner wants. up to from the arm-
hole, so the seam allowances w1ll be h1dden. Note: The center front must be extended in order to draw
the line, and w1ll consequently ra1se the new boatneck
above the neck seam. Don't worry about th1s choking the
customer. as the fabric will stretch to allow for comfort.

fok:S OY"er to create facmg

fold over fold over

facmg facmg
- 3/8" 3/8'

3/8" 3/8"
......
:l 3/8" 3/8" ...
•...
3/8'' 3/8"
......
Fold the paper along the new neckline and trace the shoul-
1" hem
1" hem
......
...
...
der and armholes. Because knit fabrics are looser than woven fabrics and
easily fray and unravel, use %" seam allowances and a
Unfold the paper and create a 2" facing/hem as illustrated. four-thread serger for construction.

Always use at least a 1" hem allowance for all straight hems

,.
and Y2" for curved hems.

Do not cover-stitch a sweater knit-it will stretch.

Use a blind hemmer or hand sew the hem.

--
Use a 1W' hem allowance for hand hems.
 SWEATERS CHAPTER 9 313

STYLE# 10-011 COWL-NECK SWEATER

Cowl necklines are created like boatne k .
center front IS extended to c reat th c s, however, the
e e drape effect.
A cowl may be created on the front th
anywhere else the designer might . ' e back, the sleeve or Place a mark on the shoulder of the draft.
1magme.

fold over to create a facing

········...
!!square

...
·····...

·.
.-····

square
y
:
/

iJ' . ~', IC~J. . . . . . . .

"'.,c--
· ~
y
r··

.. j

Using the L-square ruler, draw in the new neckline at the
length desired.
The neckline must always be squared to the new center
front.
Fold the paper along the new neckline and trace the shoul-
der and armholes.
Unfold the paper and create a facing/hem that is 2" on
the back and shoulders but with a slightly curved line, to
become 4" on the front. This compensates for the fact that
you can see inside this neckline.
 3 14 C HAPTER 9 SWEATERS
'w
•'-
faong
.. 318~

••
318'

••
318'
••.
3/8'
••
1 1/2' hem 1 1f'L hem

Because knit fabncs are looser than woven fabncs and STYLE #10·012 CREW- NECK SWEATER
.-
•
lD

•.
easily fray and unravel. use 3/8 seam allowances and a
Rib knit must be used for the collar of this sweater.
four-thread serger tor construction.

•.
Always use at least a 1" hem allowance for all straight hems
and Yz" tor curved hems.

\ ••
-
1" new neckline

··..
. ·· ~.1"
•
-•...
""
To create a crew-neck sweater with a 1" collar, remove 1"
Since the collar will be drafted as a straight piece, to
from the sweater draft parallel to and below the original
neckline. fold in half, remove these sections and draft the collar
separately.

In order for the collar to remain flat, it must be drafted

one- sixth smaller than the new neck opening.
 SWEATERS CHAPTER 9 315

~ "6~ E
"
E ~E ~
ti
.lll ti
t:: .lll
a ~
.:. ~
_'f
-a
i,., :§
~,.,
~ 3/8" i 3/8"

~
t::
"c:
0
0
a ~ a
"fi :§
~,., ~,.,
In order to lie flat, crew-neck collars can on I be m
from rib fabrics. Y ade i
0
318" i 3/8" I
0

The width of the collar is 2".

The length of the collar pattern is determined b th 1
. . . Y e ength
of the outstde edge of the ongtnal neckline (the discarded
pieces), which is one-sixth smaller than the new neck
opening.
Alternately, draft the collar one-sixth smaller than the cut
edge of the neck opening (see section on binding and
banding).
1'" hem allowance
Because sweater knits fabrics are knitted a little looser
than other knits, a larger seam allowance is needed so
that they don't unravel, fray, or run.
Use a four-thread serger with a %" seam allowance.
For straight hems, use a minimum of 1" hem allowance.
For curved hems, use a '/,'' hem allowance.

Assignment #1 Assignment #2
Create a crew neck sweater with a 6" zipper in
Create a zip front cardigan sweater wi~h hood, the center front.
and a front facing and back neck tw1ll tape.
Add a 11/z" hem allowance and hand hem, or
Use a 24" separating zipper. blind hem the sweater.
Add a 1112'' hem allowance and hand hem or Cut and sew this garment using a purchased
blind hem the sweater. sweater knit.
· a purchased
Cut a nd sew this garment usmg
sweater knit.
316 CHAPTCR 9 SWEATERS

Test Your Knowledge of the

Material in This Chapter
10. Will a turtleneck collar drafted with the
1. What are the three methods to create a
exact neckline m easurements fit snugly
sweater?
2. What corrections should be made to the against the neck?
one-way-stretch top sloper to create a 11. How much hem a llowance should be added
to patterns for a fully-fashioned sweater or
sweater sloper?
3. How much ease should the sleeve of a a sweater using sweater blocks?
sweater have? 12. How much seam allowance is necessary on
4. What is a "second layer" sweater sloper? the center front for a style with separating
5. How much should you enlarge the sweater zippers?
sloper for second layer? 13. Can a fitted sloper be used to create sweat-
6. Can you cover-stitch the hem of a sweater ers out of ribbed fabric?
knit? 14. How can you reduce the collar pattern for
7. How are the cowl necklines drafted? a turtleneck so that it fits snugly against •
8. How do you draft a turtleneck? the neck? ~
9. How many seams should the turtleneck 15. What are "fashioning marks"? 1)1
collar have?
••
••
••
•••
••
I

•••
••
••
••
.Ill•.
'
 c HA p T E R 0
Dresses

. '
,j,,,,,,,,J,

About This Chapter

This chapter introduces the reader to the patternmaking tech-
mques needed to draft stretch dresses. Because most neckline
and sleeve variations are illustrated in the chapter on tops
and sweaters, this chapter is brief.

317
 •..
....
318 CHAPTER 10 DRESSES

....
....-.
One-Way-Stretch
Dress Sloper
\.,u tdll ,,tl,u·h tho kut lopiLr to l\hl<l
..-...
-
top"'"""'' tu en·''t I 1 ,) II S OJl(l r
till' sln tch rUt Ills n IJI,llll tho lllrl•

Extra [>friO e..ua

Extra Smnll Son.oll Lo:ge
11 t st to kneo
w~,st to tn~lo 38 •
:>3
38
..

••tGnd ltMt longtf'l Of IJ\t lOP sJoo.lf

ID cnate • drna ~

-
Dress Waist
Stretch Ratio s for
Dres ses rh, cln 1o1 .- 1 fl.'lthrn an
htlt<tl, "' Hnhtt<'d, d 1 nd111s: on the
lru ll'ftch r tho for llrl'cil! ~lop r
r lht hi
11 for thr l 'I' lopt r For lit l<!tl , u th droft
Fur unhtt~_'{), qu. 1'1:' In
Till I llll

I· r m flu('(} hnd th
llttoo , d d " '"
 319
DRESSES CHAPTER 10

CREATING A DRESS SLOPER FROM A CATSUIT SLOPER Slash and spread the waist 3" to return
Because we raised the waist when creating the catsuit draft, we must lower it to the natural waist.
it 1'12' for aT-shirt or a short dress.

If creating a very long dress, leave the waist shortened, because the weight
of the fabric will pull the waist down.
Because you shortened the waist when drafting the catsuit sloper, you will have
to increase the length if you plan to use the catsuit sloper for a dress style.

mmblend blend

Trace out a new dress sloper.

Extend the center front to the
. t hen creating the length of dress required, and
Because we raised the wals w T shirt or
catsuit draft, we must lower it 1W' for a - square a new hem.
short dress.
ave the waist short-
If creating a very long dress, le f b ·c will pull the
ened, because the weight of the a n
waist down. lower
may have to
For a medium-length dress, you . usly short-
mount previO
the waist by half of the a testing.
ened. This process may take some

Bend new side seams.

 320 CHAPTER 10 DRESSES

1/2" 1/2"
? """"""fl 1_\······~
u : 1/2" 112 :
j \_
DRESS DRESS TUBE TUBE
BLOCK BLOCK DRESS DRESS
BACK FRONT BLOCK BLOCK
MED MED BACK FRONT
MED MEO

STYLE #10-001 TUBE DRESS
A tube dress is one of the easiest
styles to draft.
Raise the underarm by '12'. Add a 1" hem to both top and bottom
Take in the underarm by W' to make of the dress, and label as illustrated.
the garment tighter in this area, as
the original sloper was created to
have sleeves. This is not necessary,
however, if you use binding, elastic, or
some other reducing trim.

o=··· ···c::u

DRESS DRESS
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED

STYLE #10- 002 BOATNECK DRESS

Square a line across the front w here you want the neckline
The boatneck dress is the basis for many cowl-styled to be. Repeat for the back.
dresses but can also be a style on its own.

2"J[F:::7 ··::.:::'l)l'"

DRESS DRESS
BLOCK
BLOCK
BACK
FRONT
MED
MEO

Add a 2" facing or hem to the top edge of the dress.

Add seam allowances as illustrated. However, you do not
have to add seam allowances to the top, because the h8n'l
allowance Is already added.
 DRESSES CHAPTER 10 321

STYLE #10-003 COWL-NECK DRESS

There are different techniques used to
create cowl-neck dresses. The method
shown here will increase the overall
width of the dress and may not be suit-
able for all styles.
Measure on. the c us1omer or the dress-form how low you wish the cowl to
b e, measunng from one Sl'd e of the neck down the length of the cowl and
b ack up to the other Sl'd e of the neck. Then divide this measurement in half
ecause you will be working on one-half of the pattern. '

\!.~::~··:····- .....: hemtfacing

·---~--- .....:j•.
COWL NECK
DRESS
FRONT
MED
- CUT 1
(on fold)
DRESS
DRESS BLOCK
BLOCK FRONT
FRONT MED
MED
........Jl
The hem of the dress must be
Because it will be possible to see in-
Using your measurement and an "I:' corrected.
side the cowl, you must create a larger
square, draft the cowl to the hem of
hem/faci ng for the front portion of the
the dress, as illustrated. cowl, or 4", and curve it to the shoul-
der seam, 2".
 3.:!2 CHAPTER 10 DRESSES

NECK DRESS
E #10-004 ALTERNATE COWL
STYL . f drafting the cowl will increase volume
The previous method o lting in a looser waist.
throughout the entire garment, resu h
To create a dress that is fitted except for the cowl, use t e
followmg Instructions.

...
DRESS ~
~
BLOCK
DRESS DRESS

•
FRONT BLOCK BLOCK
MED FRONT FRONT
MED MED
~

Slash through the shoulder area to any Slash and spread the section. Measure from the center front to de-
•
~
area between the underarm and waist.
This area Will get larger, so 1f you want
it t1ght, keep the slash h1gh on the side
termine how large you want the cowl.
••
•
seam.

I
I
318" I
••
DRESS
BLOCK
FRONT DRESS
318"

•
I
••
BLOCK DRESS
MED
FRONT BLOCK
MEO FRONT
3/8"
MEO

Extend the center front and s uare

across. q

Make sure the new center front is

Create a facing 4" at the front and 2"
at the shoulder.
,....,
Add seam allowances to the com-
••
'
pleted pattern.
perfectly square at the neck; other- Because you will be able to see inside
Wise, you will get a point at the front the front, a deeper hem/facing is
because 1t 1s on the fold. needed.
 DRESSES CHAPTER 10 323

STYLE #10-005 WRAP DRESS

This wrap dress ma .
into the f . Y be drafted With a self-tie that inserts
acmg edge.

2 112"
/'

.......
"""""'"'
DRESS
BLOCK
FRONT
MED

1· I
j 1/8" 1/8"

To draft a wrap dress, trace out the full Add a 2 112" facing to the front edge. Trace and separate the pattern pieces.
sloper, both sides. Remember to reduce the facing as in
Draw in the wrap front with the V- previous facing drafts, by Vo".
neckline as low or as high as you wish.

DRESS
BLOCK
FRONT
MED

Create a hem along the front edge.

Trace both sides of the sloper for
STYLE #10-006 WRAP DRESS WITH asymmetrical styles. The neck edge should be finished with
BINDING binding.
Place the style line where you wish to
The same dress can be created w ith 2" to 2'12" past the
create the overlap ,
binding for ties. The edges that will be center front.
bound do not need any seam allow-
ances added.
 -4 CHAPTER 10 DRESSES

\
\\

DRESS
BLOCK
l
FRONT
MED

.Ji
STYLE #10-007 WRAP DRESS WITH FLARED CAP Trace both sides of the sloper for asymmetrical styles.
SLEEVES Place the style line where you wish to create the overlap,
Create a flared-sleeve wrap dress. 2" to 2'12'' past the center front.

I
notches for \.

openong

ill

Create a 2V2 hem for the center fronts. Blend the shoulder sleeve intersection. ....
...
iii

...:

-
Create the sleeve as Illustrated, remembering to keep the
end squared ; otherw1se, you will get a peak at the tip of the

,,
sleeve.

Place notches on the side seam where the tie will come out.

,
.1'
,_"'""
,_,_"""'
,_
DRESS
BLOCK
FRONT
MED
STYLE #10-008 ASYMMETRICAL-STYLED DRESS
Trace both sides of the sloper for asymmetrical styles.
Create an asymmetrical dress with flared cap sleeves on
Place the style line where you wish to create the overiiPo
one side and a slip neckline on the other.
all the way to the side seam.
 DRESSES CHAPTER 1 0 325

)
DRESS
BLOCK
FRONT
MED

Draw in the slip neckline on the alternate side, remember-

ing to mamtarn complete bust coverage. Trace and separate the piece, remembering to include the
notches as necessary for matching up the pieces.
Place a notch where the t wo pieces will attach to each
other.

Extend the shoulder into a sleeve as illustrated.

,. 318'

Add seam allowances to the pieces as illustrated. STYLE #10-009 SLIP NECKLINE DRESS

There should not be any seam allowances on the neckline, This dress has a neckline that is straight across the front.
because it will be finished with a 3/s" wide binding.
While constructing this garment, serge the front seam to-
wards the outside so that you can bind that edge.

You don't have to raise or take in the side seams if you will be using reduced
. . · h d tighter because rt rs DRESS
brndrng. The binding will pull the underarms hrg er an DRESS
BLOCK BLOCK
slightly smaller. BACK FRONT
MED MED
 326 CHAPTER 10 DRESSES

STYLE #10-010 TOP AND SKIRT COMBINATIONS Line the slopers up as illustrated, and you will see how
easy it is to match the pieces.
You can easily combine skirt and top patterns to create
dress styles.

DU DU -eii"largeWa!St

•..
.•.
Or you can separate a dress style into separate pieces for
drafting dresses with a waist seam. Enlarge the waist of the top to create the extra fullness
•.
required for the gathered top.

.
•..
.•.
,,
,
,.
 DRESSES CHAPTER 10 327

ljUst
span

STYLE #10-011 EMPIRE-WAIST DRESS

Create an Empire-waist dress with gathered skirt.

The first step is to find the apex of the bust.
In order to draft this skirt, which has a horizontal seam
below the bust, you must first determine where the bust is Draw a guideline parallel to the center that is half the bust
on the sloper. span away from the center front.

Extra Extra
Extra Small Extra Extra
Small Small Medium Large Large Extra Large
Stable 1
6 /2 6% 6 71a ? 'Ia 7'12 7 71a 8 31a
Moderate 6% 6 '1, 6% ? 'Ia 7 '1, 7 11a 6'1a
Stretchy 6% 6'12 6% 7 ?'Ia 7 11a B'la
Super-stretch 6'1• 6% 6% 6'1a ?'Ia 7% 7 11a
Rib 7
5 /a 6 6'1• 6'1• 6 71a 7 '1• 7'12

.S!

-t
N

b
p n
.o bust
span

Measure the bust level to wherever it lands on the guide-

Draw a guideline p arallel to the center front but away from line. This is your apex.
the front by half the bust span amount.

Extra Extra
Extra Extra Medium Large Large Extra Large

sma~l~~------~1~0~~~'-------1~0~~~·------------------------
Extra Small small
11 11'1•
10 10'1•
WBust level
 ·r.
.~8 ~·ti<\PTLR 10 DRESSES

~
...

From the apex. draw a guideline that extends from the
center front to the s1de seam. Th1s IS the line that you w11/
slash and spread to add extra length for the bust.
To determine the bust radius, use the c hart below.
From the original bust ap ex, draw in the bust radius using
a compass.

Extra Extra Extra Extra

Extra Small Small Small Medium Large Large
- - ---
Stable
Extra Large
2 2 4 2 3 ta 2 112 2% 2% 2 7/a
Moderate 2 11s 2 '/, 2% 2 112 2% 2% 2 7/a
Stretchy 2 2 '/a 2'1• 2% 2 112 2% 2%
Super-stretch 1 '/a 2 2'/a 2 1/4
R1b
2% 2 112 2%
1 :t, 1 'Ia 1'/a 2 2 1/a 21/4 2%

Cut and separate the up .

slightly below the bust. per portion from the lower portion, Separate the sections.
 DRESSES CHAPTER 10 329

-·--. 1
11/2" "
; I El,i~flE
3" DRESS
. :-------, UPPER
double 1\e wrdlh ( CUT 1

r.-.~.. Qilfhf:tr tO-W~ISt

l
MPIRE DRESS
OWER PORTION

t
FRONT
MEDIUM
CUT 1 on fold

Enlarge the skirt to create the extra

Draw in the neck a
fullness required for the gathenng.
. line (refer to s/ nd armhole style Label the pattern as illustrated.
eeveless garments).
Add 50% for light gathering.
Make sure to n t h
for easy o c the pattern pieces
Add 100% for medium gath enng.
. assembly.
Add 200% for heavy gathering ( 1
for very light fabrics). on Y

STYLE #10-012 DOLMAN-SLEEVE DRESS

Line up the shoulders as illustrated, and extend the shoul-
It is easy to create a do/man-sleeve dress, one without any der line an amount equal to the length of the sleeve.
armhole seams. The pattern is simply a front piece and a
back piece. Note that these st yles consume a Jot of fabric,
and a lot of fabric is wasted, because of the large pieces.

Extra Extra
Extra Large Large Extra Large
Extra Medium
small small
Extra Small 7% 8 '/s 8 7/s
5 71• 6% 4 •;,
5 '/s 3% 4 '/•
4% 3%
Wrist 3
2 '/•
Half of wrist 2 '/•
 330 CHAPTER 10 DRESSES

At the wrist, square a line in each direction equal to the Blend a smooth curve at the underarm.
wrist measurement.
Measure and mark down from the underarm point on the
side seam (illustrated at 1", but may be any measurement
that the designer requires).
If you make the armhole too low, it will be difficult to wear
this garment under many jackets and coats.

Draw in the neckline, as required by your design.

Trace and separate the pattern pieces as illustrated,
remembering to notch for easy assembly. You should
probably place the notches at the original shoulder point
for future styling, so you will always be able to determine
where the exact shoulder point is on this pattern.
 DRESSES CHAPTER 10 331

STYLE #10-013 LOWERED ARMHO

SLEEVE LE WITH DOLMAN Line up the shoulders as illustrated and extend the shoul-
der line an amount equal to the length of the sleeve.
This dolman dress has a lowered armh 0 1e, a Wider
•
wrist
measurement, and an armhole seam.

Measure and mark down from the underarm point on the

At the end of the sleeve, square a line in each direction as
wide as you want the sleeve to be.
side seam (illustrated at 1", but may be any measurement
that the designer requires).
If you make the armhole too low, it will be difficult to wear
this garment under many jackets and coats.

Extra Extra
Extra Large Large Extra Large
Extra Small Medium
Extra Small Small 22 71•
23'1s 22 '1s
1 23%
22 '1• 23 1• 7% 8'1• 8 71•
Sleeve length 22% 5% 6% 4'h
5'1• 3"A 4'1•
4% 3
3%
Wrist 2%
Half of wrist 2'1•
 332 CHAPTEA10 DRESSES
••
••
••.
\ ..
w

Connect the wns

straight line.
. I to the lowered underarm Point with a

the front for a V-neck as illustrated.

I
Trace and separate the pa11e rn pieces as illustrated.
w
.
--
-.-...
Lower b any style
Draw 1.n an armhole seam as illustrated; it may e
you wish.

..-
CB

Trace and separate the pattern pieces as illustrated. ..-......

STYLE #10-014 V-NECK T-SHIRT DRESS

STYLE 10-015 TANK DRESS
Same as for V-neck T-shirt, except that the dress sloper is
used Instead of the T-shirt sloper.
Follow the instructions for tank tops, substituting the~
block for the top block.
 DRESSES C HAPTER 10 333

,.
,
.'', / '
''

STYLE #10-016 SLIP NECKLINE

Draw a guideline from the bust apex up to the point where
A slip neckline may be created with straps that tie to each the shoulder meets the neck.
other or are attached to the back of the top.
This guideline follows the direction of the straps, and may
You don't have to raise and take in the armholes of a be changed accordingly.
garment that will be reduced through the use of elastic,
Measure up 1" on the guideline.
binding, or banding.

Trace and separate the pattern pieces as illustrated.

Draw in the nec kline, trying not to Iet Your lines .go within
the bust circle; otherwise, parts o f the breast will be
exposed.
 CHAPTER10 DRESSES

Or you may attach binding to the front sections before at-

Use binding to finish off the neckline edges and to create
taching the s ides. This will create a different effect for the
straps or ties.
ties/straps.
Do not add seam allowances to any edge that will have
binding applied.
Attach the binding to the back and sides before attaching
the front section.

bar.tack

When using binding to create straps,

To create an asymmetrical neckline, You don't have to raise and take in
make the straps longer than neces-
you must trace out the sloper full, the armholes of a garment that will be
sary, then correct and complete the
both sides open, before drafting the reduced through the use of elastic,
measuring during fitting.
neckline. binding, or banding.
Insert twill tape in the strap portion of
the binding ties to prevent them from Do not add seam allowances to any
stretching. edge that will have binding applied.

Bar tack the strap to the back binding

for reinforcement.

Do not add seam allowances to any

edge that will have binding applied.

STYLE #10-017 COWL-NECK DRESS
Use this draft for longer top designs to avoid increasing
the volume of the body of the garment, or if you wish to
attach a skirt to the bottom of the top.
Draft the neckline as in the tight high c owl, squaring up
and in using the ''!..:' ruler.
spread
-----....
Slash and spread as illustrated. d d mea-
d use the recor e
To determine how much to sprea '
surement from the dress-form .
DRESSES CHAPTER 10 335
To determine the length of the cowl, hold the tape measure
as low and as far away from the dress-form as your de-
sired distance, and record that measurement. Divide that
measurement in half to use for your draft, because you will
only be drafting half of the garment.
Draw slash lines from the neckline to the side seam as
illustrated.
These may be placed higher or lower on the side seam,
depending on the amount and placement of the volume
you wish to increase.
····· ··u
Square a line using the "t:' square.
 336 CHAPTER 10 DRESSES

-....
blend

Add a 4" hem to the front and a 2" hem to the shoulder
area, and then draw a curved line as illustrated .
The completed pattern will add volume only to the upper
part of the garment, without increasing any of the body
portions.
As before, a larger hem/facing may be used if the fabric
is very fluid and you wish to ensure that it does not roll
outwards.

STYLE #10-018 SLIP NECKLINE WITH COWL Draw a guideline from the bust apex up to the point where
You may also create a slip neckline with a cowl in the front. the shoulder meets the neck.
This guideline follows the direction of the straps, and may
be changed accordingly.
Measure up 1" on the guideline.

TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(date) (date)

Draw in the neckline, trying not to let your lines go within

the bust circle; otherwise, parts of the breast will be
exposed.
Trace and separate the pattern pieces as IHustrated.
 DRE SSES CHAPTER 10 337

cowl
mqasuromont
- lj
-~

1 ~£.

Draw in the slash lines for the cowl.

Slash and spread the sections an amount equal to the
amount of cowl required.
Make sure that the center front remains squared.

Because you can see inside of the cowl, you will require a
deeper hem/ facing in the front Trace the pattern as illustrated.
Add a 4" hem to the center front and a 2" hem at the
shoulders, and then blend with a smooth curved line.

_)

TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(date) (date)

The back of this dress may also be

STYLE #10-019 HALTER DRESS
You can easily create a halter dress. It _
11
may be a halter in the back as well, or
can easily be created as a backless style.
Draw in the style lines as you wish
lowered if you desire.
them to appear, remembenng to
shape them for complete bust
coverage.
 •..
..
338 CHAPTER 10 DRESSES

..
..
STYLE #10- 020 OFF-THE-SHOULDER DRESS WITH
....
.••
BAND FINISH Line up the front and back dress slopers as illustrated and
The off-the-shoulder styled dress requires sleeve and
body draftmg.
place the sleeve along the shoulder. a

-•-
--
Draw m the lowered neckline as illustrated.
Measure the neckline in order to draft the ribbed band for
"' ..
....•
the neckline.

COLLAR MED
1-- CUT 1 . RIB ONL'f . -
-----1
II'

..._,.
10% smaller

BACK
MED
fiJit

,.-
I FRONT
CUT1
SLEEVE MED
on fold
MED CUT 1
CUT2 on fold

I
Make the rib pattern one-tenth smaller than the neckline.
--
 DRESSES C HAPTER 10
339

Jumpsuits
ABOUT THIS SECTION
This section w ill explore som
. fi · . e patternma k · d
s1gns or JUmpsm ts. These gar m g etails a nd de
· d b ments a re t . -
stnts a n may e u sed with one- no as t1ght as cat -
The jumps uit sloper combine:~h-stretch fabrics.
sloper to create a one-piece slop . N e top sloper a nd the pa nt
a much lower crotch than the ecx. t ote tbhat the jumpsuit has
a smt ecau ·t ·
from one-way-stretch fabric and n d se I I S created
t ra fa bric in t he crotch a rea. ee s some comfort a nd ex-

Simply attach the top sieper Trace out a new sieper and
JUMPSUIT SLOPERS
to the pant sieper. label as a jumpsuit.
This draft is for a jumpsuit, which is different from
the catsuit in that it may be used for one-way-stretch
fabrics. However, please note that the crotch will be
much lower and looser than the catsuit because the
fabric does not stretch in the lengthwise direction.

Simply square down from the Or create a bell bottom

jumpsuit.
JUMPSUIT WITH WIDE LEGS crotch.

Create a jumpsuit with wide legs.

 ,l4tl CHAPTER 10 DR[~SES

Test Your Knowledge of the

Material in this Chapter
I I low do you draft a drP~~ from a top ,-Jop<>r·>
2 What change, mu,t 1·ou makl' to tht• cabuit >'Ioper if you
wnnt to u..;t· 1t to crc•;t., a dro>~" ,Jopt.•r''
.I I''"'can you t-rt•att• a dn·~s with nn unfittt'd "ai~t'?
.J fi rm can vou crt•;Ht• n dn·...;..; with a fittt•d w:n,t ''
fi 1/ow C.tll ~·ou cn•atr· a cfrp,s "ith n "'ffil · tittt'cl \\ntst?
G. \\'hich ,J,;pt·r .should bP uspd to t·n•o\lp ,1 cln•" fnm1 n
fo11r·wuy ,;ln·tch fillnic"'
 c
Oversized Projects

About this Chapter

Occasionally a designer may require garments to be over-
sized, or much la rger than normal garments. This chapter
will introduce the reader to the concepts and patternmaking
techniques used to create oversized garments, and will begin
by drafting of a set of oversized top slopers. Understand that
your garments may be created as large as you wish, but the
size label does not change, because the customer is simply
wearing them larger, looser, and baggier. To create an over-
sized jacket, use the jacket sloper and enlarge as much as
your design requires.
Once you have created the oversized slopers, you may use
any of the other details in this text on oversized styles.

OVERSIZED TOP SLOPERS

ai u:
The following examples will be illustrated with and total body increase of 6", u u
but the designer may want a smaller increase, or a larger mcrease.

increase the total body cirrumference by s··

341
 CHAPTER 11 O VERSIZED PROJECTS

.-.
~
..•.
The oversized sloper is used when the designer wants to c reate styles that
mfddle of the shoulder

: underarm area
are loosely fitted or baggy.
This is still a size Medium, because the neckline has not been changed, ana '-

..-..
should be labeled "Medium Oversized."
. ··-···-+ ... r armhole area To create a style that is 6" larger around the c irc umference, extend each

I quarter of the pattern by 1W', half of that through the shoulder and the other
half through the underarm.

I Draw a vertical line through the shoulder area to the hem and then through
the underarm area to the hem.

..
Then draw a line horizontally through the armhole the same amount that th
shoulder has increased , because you don't want an oversized p roject withe
tight armholes.
Use the straight waist, as it doesn't make sense to make an oversized fitted

.
wa1st.
fg
INCREASE CHART
Use this cart to determine the amount for each increase.
Total Body Quarter Body Shoulder Underarm
Increase
fll
Increase Increase Increase
ta
1"
2"
3"
4"
5"
1
'I•
'h
%

1 'I•
'I•
'12
%
'h
%
'Is
'h
%
'h
s;.
•
ira
6" 1 '12 31· '!.
il
7"
8"
1%
2 1
'I•
1
'I• il
g"
10"
2'1• 1 'Is 1 'Is il
2'12 1 'I• 1'1• m
11" 2% 1% 1% •

DD 12"
13"
14"
3
3'1·
3'12
1 112
1%
1%
1 '12
1%
1'!. e
Sfra·

~!"
I
5 I
g>
~
I blend
I

width increase of 1 1/2'

Slash and spread the bod .
6" d. 'd y to Increase the fit
=
lVI e by 4 1 'Y:2" for each p . To b lend:
1Y2" d' ·d anel of the body
1VIedby 2 = 3 '" f · Straighten out the shoulder b .
" or each ar t from the neck to armhole i Y drawtng a new straight line
Slash and spread the ea hat will be enlarged.
Blend th ' gnonng any discrepancies.
illustrated· se two areas by 3,"" nch.a e armhole and the underarm areas.
Only the widths of th b
the neckline or the e. ody and sleeve have ch
• wnst . anged, not
 OVERSIZED PROJECTS CHAPTER 11 343

B
c

VERSIZED TOP
VERSIZED TOP
SLOPER
SLOPER
BACK
FRONT
MED \
MED

XX
/ ', ~

-- Label as "oversized slopers."

It is still Medium size, but intended to be worn looser.

It does not make any sense to create a fitted oversized
top sloper, since it is already so oversized, and the sides
extend well past the waist of the customer.

C'\ 3/4"

OVERSIZED SLEEVE
The sleeve must increase equally in order to fit into the Figuring out the sleeve is simple, whatever changes have
body. been made to the armh ole must be re-created so the
sleeve will fit into it.
By looking at the illustration, it is easy to understand the
placement and amounts of the increases necessary. Slash and spread the sleeve to correspond to the body, as
illustrated.
Make the changes necessary to ensure that the sleeve fits
into the new body.
 344 CHAPTER 11 O VERSIZED PROJECTS

..
~

OVER-SIZED
SLEEVE
BLOCK
....
T -.-....
..-..
Label the sleeve as Me dium Oversized Sleeve Sloper.
Blend the new sleeve and wa lk around to check for
accuracy.
Remember to allow for sleeve ease.
Check the ease.

-•
Max1mum "

Somet1mes the wnst area of the sleeve is only enlarged Sometimes the w rist is not enlarged at all. You must deter-
half as much as the balance of the sleeve. mine by you r design which method to use.

OVERSIZED CREW NECK T-SHIRT

The oversized crew neck T-shirt is created the same way
as the fitted crew neck, except that the oversized slopers
will be used.
See Chapter 9, Tops
OVERSIZED V-NECK T-SHIRT
The oversized V-neck T-shirt is created the same way as
the regular V-neck T-shirt, except that the oversized stoper
is used instead of the regular sloper.
See Chapter 9, Tops
 OVERSIZED PROJECTS CHAPTER 11 345

CF

OVERSIZED TOP
SLOPER
FRONT
MED

OVERSIZED HOODIE THE KANGAROO POCKET

Hoodies are a great example of oversized garments.
This draft will demonstrate an oversized hoodie.
The kangaroo pocket can be applied to many different
garments, such as pants, skirts, T-shirts, and can be any
size or dimension you wish.
Measure up lhe center front 6".
Measure across the hem 4" in each direction.
Measure across the top of the pocket 3" on each side.

CF

1/4~ seam allowance

...
OVERSIZED TOP ,·------ ----------------,
SLOPER
FRONT u'
o'
MED '
~·
o'
';6:
1/4" , ... o:
,..-,:0 0~~ 1 "'"
!!
Add hem allowance and seam allowances to the pocket as
Mark the drill marks '14' in and 1/4" down from the line, since
illustrated.
you don't want the marks, sometimes drilled, to show once
The sides of the pocket will be hemmed with the cover
the pocket is applied.
stitch.
The top of the pocket will be edge-stitched in place.
The bottom of the pocket will be caught in the rib
waistband.

. f" ·sh the sides of

AI ternately, you can use a folded nb to '"'
the pocket.
 OVERSIZED PROJECTS
346 CHAPTER 11

·"'
''
d
To curve the sides of the pocket, you must add a facing.
'
't
If you want to shape the sides of the pocket, you must use
a facing to fmish the edges. I
I

CF

OVERSIZED TOP
SLOPER
FRONT
MED

OVERSIZED TOP

.. _.._
0
...,.,.,0 SLOPER
FRONT
MED

Label the front of the top as illustrated with drill marks and ZIPPER WITH COVERED TEETH
notches to indicate the pocket placement.
To c reate a top with a zipper opening, whereby you don't
want to see the teeth , you can c reate welts to cover the
teeth .

Measure down any length for the zipper.

OVERSIZED TOP
SLOPER
OVERSIZED TOP
FRONT
SLOPER
MED
FRONT
MED

Draw parallel lines '/." w·d

1 t
' e 0 draft the welts.
Trace and separate the pieces as illustrated.
 OVERSIZED PROJECTS CHAPTER 11 347

---+ ,.
The welts drawn on the pattern can be tr
as illustrated, and seam allowan aced on the fold
ces added.
The long side of the welts should have 'N When folded, the welts look like the illustration.
ances, and the ends should have '1:.. seam allow-
z seam allowances.

I CF

..
CF

OVERSIZED
HOOD IE
FRONT
MED

Label the pattern pieces as indicated.
The welts must be fused with tricot to prevent them from
stretching when sewing and wearing.
RIB WAISTBAND
The rib waistband needs to be slightly smaller than the
waist. Even when creating the waistband for an oversized
top, the waist is still drafted using the regular sized sloper.
It needs to be snug on the customer's waist.

CF

The width to the waistband can be any size you wish, and will be folded over and
sewn to the hem.
RIB
Use the rib sloper with bui lt in reductions to determine the length of the SLOPER

waistband.
. . . aistband to fit around the
Th1s waist must be multiplied by four to create a w
entire hem.
 CHAPTER 11 OVERSIZED PROJECTS

~.
..
ALTERNATE METHOD OF DETERMINING RIB LENGTH
fl the model at the area of the body
Measure the dress-form or '
where the rib will sit.

1o% smaller than h1p

measurement

'IIi

Make the rib length 10% smaller.

...
=
CF

REGULAR
.
Ill

II
SLEEVE BLOCK
fl
OVERSIZED
HOOD IE
FRONT
MED
, .. / RIB
~ SLEEVE
~ BLOCK
•
i
t
i
"' '"
f·--..........-......,' ..... "'t~61EiJt"r9........................."";................."']
•t
Label the pattern as illustrated.
~
RIB CUFFS
Notch the front, back, and sideseams of the waistband for When drafting a ribbed cut, use the regular rib sloper, so
easy assembly and to ensure that you stretch the waist- that it is snug on the c ustomer's wrist.
band to fit the top evenly.

REGULAR
SLEEVE BLOCK

:·./RIB
\ SLEEVE
Make the length to fit the regular rib sloper as wide as you wish illustrated ; BLOCK
at 4" which is folded in half. '

:
. .

·IEJ::
; OVER S I Z ED PROJ E CTS C H APTER 11 349

..,.,~ ALTERNATE METHO

M D OF DETERMINING CUFF RIB LENGTH
easure the dress-form ' or fit model at lhe area of the body where lhe rib will sit.

~ I I I \
10% smaller than wrist
measurement

~• Make the rib length 10% smaller.

•••
CB
neckline
c I drop

OVER-SIZED
SLEEVE
I

I
• OVERSIZED TOP
SLOPER
FRONT
MED

HOODS
Hoods may be created for any neckline or for regular fit,
Label the pattern as illustrated.
T-shirts, sweaters, tank tops, and catsuits.
Place the front sieper on top of the back sloper, matching
the shoulders.
Measure the difference between the necklines; this is the
amount of the neckline drop.

measure
back neckline

CB

OVERSIZED TOP OVERSIZED TO

SLOPER
SLOPER
BACK
MED
FRONT
MED \
Measure from the pit of the neck, all the way around the
head to the pit of the neck on the other side.
Measure around the head from eyebrow to eyebrow.
b ck neckline.
Measure the front neckline and t h e a
 ~
..
350 CHAPTER 11 OVERSIZED PROJECTS

half of the ear to ear measurement

..
--------~
neckhne drop
1measurement
..-.
Draw intersecting lines.
From the lower point mark, measure up 15" or desired
amount.
Square a line 12" across, or the desired amount.
Mark a guideline above by the amount of the neckline drop.

.-.
-
••
••
-----~.,._-"':-::: "
112
r neckline drop
measurement back neck 1neckline drop •
~
- - - -- - -- ""---' measurement
Using the measurement of the front neckline, hold the ruler
Apply the back neckline measurement along the upper line.
on the lower line and place it wherever your front neckline
lines up on the upper line.
Make sure to square the line for '12''.

At approximately half-way along the center back sh blend

the hood to resemble the back of your head mak'. ape Blend the neckline into a smooth c urve for easier sewing.
th t th r · • 1ng sure
a e lne IS squared straight up for the first 1".
 OVERSIZED PROJECTS CHAPTER 11 351

,.,.
HOOD
MED
CUT2
HOOD
MED
CUT2 1
Trace and label the hood as .1
' 1ustrated.
HOOD OPTIONS
To
andcreate
d a curve d hood, measure 2W' from the points
raw the curve. '

HOOD
HOOD MED
MED CUT2
CUT2

Measure in 2 '12''. Cut out the section so that it forms a dart at the top of th
back of the hood. e
Measure down 2 '12''.

HOOD WITH PANEL SEAMS AND CENTER BACK SEAM

Separate the pattern pieces.
Square a line across and down from the 2'12" marks.
 CHAPTER 11 O VERSIZED PROJECTS
Swing the center back panels to line up with each other as
illustrated and make into one s1ngle piece.
A hood pattern can be drafted without a center back
seam, by reversing the center back panel and c utting it on
the fold.
It will need a length correction, from the top edge, so that
it fits perfectly to the curved lines.
Separate the pieces.
Blend the corners into a smooth curve, and you will have
to reduce the length of the center back, from the top edge
of the panel, so that it fits to the new curved line.
1112"
HOOD
MED
CUT2
HOOD WITH RIBBING
The hood may also be drafted with ribbing to finish the
edge of the hood.
Measure an amount for the rib, illustrated at 1112'', but may
be larger or smaller, as the designer wishes.
Reduce the length of the ribbing pattern piece by 10%,
remove it from the top, then straight edge.
,
,,"' OVERSIZED PROJECTS CHAPTER 11
353

•..
-•..
•
HOOD
RIB
MED HOOD
CUT2 TRIM
MED MED
If CUT2- CUT2

•
I
•
I HOOD ON FOLD
I Fold and trace the pattern pieces as .11
1 ustrated. The hood may be drafted with a fold at the top.

I This hood has a seam in the ribbing at th e top of the h d

•• but may also be cut in a single piece. ea •

I
"Ill HOOD
HOOD
MED
MED CUT2
CUT 2

HOOD ON CENTER BACK FOLD Alternatively, the dart intake amounts may be transferred to
The hood may be drafted without a seam in the back and the shoulder notch, the excess, normally taken in at the cen-
just a large dart. This is very useful when using striped ter back, must be taken in as a dart at the shoulder notch.
fabrics since both sides will match at the back.
 354 CHAPTER 11 OVERSIZED PROJECTS

HOOD
MED
;,CUT2

OVERSIZED HOODED RAGLAN SWEATSHIRT

Reduce the length of the dart to 3'12'.
Raglan sleeves are often used when creating oversized
garments.
Since there is no armhole seam, it is not as obvious that
the garment is cut bigger, and will fit a larger segment of
the population.
In this section, we will create the pattern for a raglan-
sleeved top with a hood, ribbed cuffs, and waistband.

......
..,
...
IIIII

•...
IIIIi

OVERSIZED
TOP
....
....
SLOPER
FRONT
MED

Place the front and back slopers together alon the

Draw a guideline from each underarm point and extend
,.
,-
shoulders. g
the line past the underarm point by approximately 3".
Draw a line connecting the underarm points.
Extend the line beyond the underarms.

,-
 OVERSIZED PROJECTS CHAPTER 11 355

OVERSIZED
\ TOP
SLOPER
FRONT
MED

add the amount

Place the sleeve on the underarm line as illustrated.
Match Point 1 to the shoulder notch on the shoulder line.
Match Point 2 to the back underarm point on the line.
Match Point 3 to the front underarm point on the line.
of the overtap
to the hem
Remember to add to the length of the sleeve, the amount
that the sleeve overlaps the shoulders, and to keep the
length consistent, otherwise the sleeve will be too short.

Note: The sleeve will overlap at the shoulder and go past

the underarm points. We will correct thi s in the next step.

OVERSIZED
TOP
\
I
SLOPER
FRONT
MED

romo;t,;;;,o0~;oun -----
to tho hom Mark the neckline 1" from the shoulder line 1n both dtrec-
d on top then this
If there is a gap when the s leeve Is place ' e so It tions. or use any measurement the designer desires.
1
amount must be removed from t he hem of the s eev
doesn't get any longer.
 •~
....
356 CHAPTER 11 OVERSIZED PROJECTS

..
Draw a stra 1ght hne from the neck point to the underarm mtersecllons as
shown.
Extend th1s line past 11'i' the underarm point.
Draw the raglan style line from the marks on the neck to the sleeve arm-
•
.-..
hole Intersection and continue through the center of the underarm point.
When draft1ng the f1tted raglan T -shirt in Chapter 7, you followed the Op-
posing curves to remove the excess fabric from the underarm. However
with the oversized top, you don 't want a tight armhole, so draw a line '
•
.....
straight through the new armhole to the underarm intersection. You've
gone to a lot of trouble to make this sloper oversized, and should use the
OVERSIZED extra fabric for a comfortable easy fit.
TOP
SLOPER

-.-.
FRONT
MED

--
..
i ll

-......
c
,.// ~
) j
{.OVERSIZED OVERSIZED
11n- TOP TOP
.... SLOPER SLOPER

-.....
FRONT FRONT
MED MED

Measure down 1'12'' at the underarms and square a lin

---
across to the body and the sleeve. e Blend a new curved underarm.

Notch the front and back raglan sea .

ms 1or construction.

~ -""
"'
 OVERS IZED PROJECTS CHAPTER 11 357

CF

OVERSIZED
TOP
SLOPER
FRONT RAGLAN
MED FRONT

Trace out the sleeve in a contrast colored pencil or pen, so

that you can see the piece clearly. Trace out the front and back bodies in a contrast colored
pencil, or pen, so that you can see the pieces clearly.

CB RAGLAN
CF BACK

RAGLAN
SLEEVE
RAGLAN MED
BACK
RAGLAN
MED
FRONT
MED

RAGLAN
FRONT
Notch, separate. and label the pattern pieces.

Raglan Style Options

The ragl an sea m may be shaped as desired.
 358 CHAPTER 11 OVERSIZED PROJECTS

RAGLAN BACK
RAGLAN
BACK

~-
' ' ~
.r..\J'.. ,. ••• ·/

\
~ :.·~ c CF

./J!.
RAGLAN RAGLAN
FRONT FRONT

The raglan seam may be shaped as desired; it may even The basic raglan draft may also be used to create dolman
extend into the center front if you desire. or batw1ng sleeves.
Shape the underarm as desired and place a long seam
down the shoulder of the garment.

...
RAGLAN
) ...
ill

...
BACK

•.
,....
.,
.•
OVERSIZED POLO SHIRT
..
...
CF
The polo shirt may be created with a kmtted polo collar or
a self collar.

Knit collars are purchased in different lengths:

RAGLAN

.
FRONT
Nevertheless, many manufacturers simply kn1t one SIZe
and either stretch it to fit the neckline, or ease it 11110 a

-
smaller neckline.
xs 13
Fo~ a more comfortable fit, and to keep the sleeves from s 14"
falling backwards on the customer, move the shoulder M 15•
seam towards the front or the arm by 'N'.
L 15•
XL 17"
 OVERS IZED PROJECTS CHAPTER 11 3 59

,~
....' ,. .,'

-·-
'- - - - - ' - - - - -'

Draft the placket on top of the top draft, so you can see
Trace out the placket as illustrated and add seam
and understand how it all fits together.
allowances.
Draft the slit as deep as you w ish, illustrated here at 6".
Then draft the placket to finish at 1" wi de.
The placket is 1" w ide a nd will fit into an opening of 1"
wide.
The two plackets w ill overlap for buttons and buttonholes.

Fold each placket towards the inside.

To sew: Sew across the bottom, catching the
Indicate with a slit or a notch the cen-
Fuse the placket pieces to re-enforce little triangle.
ter front placement of the placket on ons and buttonholes.
them f or butt
the front of the top. F ld both plackets in half. .
o both plackets, folded , With raw
une up
es touching.
ed g . V: " before the
sew at W' stopping •
lackets.
ends of the P til 1' before
Clip the slit all the way un
the end. .
. Clip a Y in the sht.
 360 CHAf'TCR 11 OVERSIZED PROJECTS

/
back neck facing
cut 1 sell =
••.
.•.
2%" cut 1 fuse

3X"

..
-•.
•
-••
POLO COLLAR FACINGS

You may also create a facing for a style with a placket.

Make the back facing longer than the front, since it will be
viewed when on the hanger.
-.-
Make the back placket 3'12'' down at the center back.

-3

OVERSIZED SHORT SLEEVE WITH RIBBED CUFF

A rib cuff still needs to fit snugly on the arm even though the garment is
oversized.

It must be made 10% smaller than the original sloper, before enlarging.
 OVERSIZED PROJECTS CHAPTER 11 361

Assignment #1· H . AssJg~ment

.
Kangaroo Pocket ood•e with #2: Create an
0 vers1zed Hoodie
Create an oversized hood·Ie Wit.hS t ·
an exposed teeth zipper, n .b cuf fse -m Create
rati . overs·_Ized ragI an hoodie with a scpa-
an
· a dsleeves
. ' ng Zipper, nb cuffs, and waistband.
band with a kangaroo pocket. ' n waist-

Assignment #4: Create an

Assignment #3: Create an Oversized Turtleneck
Oversized Polo Top Create an oversized turtleneck top with a
Create an oversized raglan-sleeved polo top us- separating zipper, ribbed collar, cuffs, a nd
ing a purchased collar with a center front but- waistband.
ton placket.

. C t an oversized
Assignment #5: rea e
Dolman Sleeved ToP d
top with rib cuffs
. d d 0 lrnan s1eeve
Create a cropped oversize
and waistband.
 362 CHAPTER 11 OVERSIZED PROJECTS

u.
u

COAT
JACKET SLOPER
SLOPER FRONT
TOP
FRONT MED
SLOPER
FRONT MED
MED
Increase II!CI'V8 58
by 2" by2"

inCTease the total body Orrurnference by 2'"

Jacket Slopers The regular top sloper will be increased in
This section will introduce the patternmaking width a total of 2" or '/,'' per panel to create a
principles used to create knit jackets and coats. jacket sloper.
The principles are similar to those already stud- Repeat or double th e measurements for coat
ied· however the blocks used are slightly dif- slopers.
fer~nt. Jack~ts must be created slightly larger
than the clothes worn underneath. The slopers
must be enlarged enough to accommodate the
clothes worn underneath, and knit coats must
be larger than the jackets worn underneath.
Regular slopers are used to create a gar-
approx
ment that has nothing except undergarments
wor n underneath. For example, summer weight
knits, dresses, a nd tops that are worn "next to
the skin."
Jacket slopers are used when the designer
half·way
---l 1/4 ----
•......
wants to create styles intended to be worn over ~
other clothing, such as pullovers a nd cardigans.
Therefore, the size must increase to accommo-
date the clothing underneath .
below the
waist notch
-----l1/8 ---- - .•.
Coat slopers are used t o creat e garments
that are worn over other sweater s or jackets.
..
...
They are still all size Medium, however, they VERTICAL INCREASES
are intended to be worn over other garments. Make the increases to the back sloper and simply change
the neckline to create the front sieper.
To apply the vertical increases:

Draw a line parallel to the side seams approximately 31/

in from the side seam (increase by Ys" per panel).
Draw a vertical line through the shoulder approximately
half-way (increase by y,• per panel).
..
Draw a vertical line 1" in from the front along the neck
edge (increase by v.·
per panel).
,•
--
 OVERSIZED PROJECTS CHAPTER 11 363

118 :
118 :

118 1f".

1/2 1/2 112

118 114 118

HORIZONTAL INCREASE ~ 1'8 ! 1/8 ; 118

To apply the horizontal increases: 118 114 118

Draw a line parallel to the shoulder ap ·

from the shoulder (increase b 101 proximately '/4' in
Slash
'II and spread these areas by the amounts
Draw a horizontal line th roug h the
Y armhol
• per panel).
I ustrated.
proximately half-way thro h e area, ap-
by V2 per panel). ug the armhole (increase

Draw a horizontal line below th .

by '/• per panel). e w aist notch (increase

When both directions of increases are indica!

should look like the illustration. ed, they

,w"6_,. •Stra·9ht
1
. 1112"\
?/'~e
'
'''
--''
'' ''
' ''
: : g:
' •"'
l' \~--
' :
''' '''
''' ''
'' ''
: :'
'' ''
' '
! i
!,__ --------- -----'! SECOND LAYER SLOPER FRONT
BLENDING AND TRUEING THE SLOPERS To create the second layer front sweater sloper, simply
trace out the back sloper, when completed, and lower the
Straighten out the shoulder by drawing a new straight line front neck 1'12" and draw in a new neckline as illustrated.
from the neck to armhole, ignoring any discrepancies.
Or use your front sloper and trace out the neckline.
Blend the armhole, neck, and the underarm areas.
Label as "jacket slope rs" or " second layer sloper'' for

sweaters.
 364 CHAPTER 11 OVERSIZED PROJECTS

1/8 1/8
- j :;~---~~: - -f
1/4 : : 1/4

\below the elbow notch!

:.·1/8!-;----; -1-,5t -/-

\ ~ ~ '
1/8 1/8 118 1/8
·~ ....... ...,...
SECOND LAYER SWEATER SLEEVE SLOPERS
To find the increase areas for the sleeve, line up the sleeve Mark the sleeve to correspond to the body, as illustrated.
with the body as illustrated and match the increase areas
Slash and spread once above the elbow notch.
accordingly.
It is possible, and easier, to increase one-half of the sleeve
and copy to the other side, or draft it on the fold of your
paper and then open it up to trace onto oak-tag.

r___ /~~~~~.

I,. ,:;~/
:

I 112 1/2 112\._

.
: 1/8
·-,
•

::

I ,. ,: :/
i1/8 1/8 1/8

i 1/8 1/4 1~
L. ------------!
'
Slash and spread the sle . I.. ------------.!'
the body increases. eve sloper as illustrated to match
Blend the sleeve as illustrated.
You can use the 0 · · 1
blend th nglna sleeve sloper as a template to
e curved parts of the new sleeve.
 OVERSIZED PROJECTS CHAPTER 11 365

I
2ND lAYER
SWEATER
SLEEVE
MED

Walk the sleeve around the a rm hole to check for

Label as "jacket sieper" or "s accuracy. SLOPER SHIFTING TO CREATE SECOND LAYER
sweaters." econd layer Sloper for SLOPERS

It is not always
second I necessary to slash and spread to create
ayer slopers. You can s1mply shift the regular
Sloper the required amount, and trace each part as it is
enlarged. See the following:
Trace out the back neck section for approximately 1".

1/8

/~r"
' '
--~----L
' '
:' :'
''' ''
'
i f
i l
: :
'' ''
I I :
,----:-----:-
'' ' ''
'' ''' ''
' ' '

Shift the sloper out '14' as illustrated

Shift the sieper up 'Ia" and trace out
Shift the sieper to the left, 'Ia", as illus- and trace the next section of the
the next section of the neck and the
trated, and trace out the next section shoulder, then the shoulder corner
corner intersection.
of the neck. intersection.
Because the neck will be blended with
a ruler in a straight line, it is not neces-
sary to draw the entire shoulder, just
the corners.
 366 CHAPTER 11 OVERSIZED PROJECTS

~ ( =- ~ -~
r· l
~·r
1/4

•,J

-~
!

Shift the sloper out '/a" and trace the

Shift the sloper down 1/a" and trace the
next sect1on of the sloper.
Shift the sloper down another '14' and
remainder of the underarm and the
trace out the next sections.
corner intersection.
Indicate the waist notch .

........
/:
' '
1 '' ''
-~·---t J -+----~
'' '' : :
''' ''
''
! 1
''' ''
'' '
' ''' '' '''
''' ' '
'
'
'''
''' ~
'''
I \
''
'
--i-----~
''
'
'
\---r---r
I I :

t : _.,. ; l'
1
Shift the sloper down 1/a" and trace Shift the sloper back 1/e" in the reverse Shift the sloper back /4' and trace that
to the hem and the hem corner direction and trace that portion of the section of the hem.
intersection. hem.
 OVERSIZED PROJECTS CHAPTER 11 367
r

~-r
I

--r----t
o

--f
!' !'
I

''
[
I
1
:

:---~-· __ _t
'' ''
I t118
''
I '
I
' -r''

Shift the sloper over 'Is" and trace the Shift the sloper back ' "
rema1n1ng sect1on of the hem and the that portion of th up Is and trace Shift the sloper up W' and trace the
e center back. last portion of the center back.
corner.
The sieper should have traveled a full
Circle and be back at the same point
that 1t originated.

To create the front sloper:

To blend: Trace out the back sieper and make changes to the
Connect the shoulders, side seams, and hems with a neck as illustrated.
Lower the neck 1'Is" and bend a new neck.
straight line.
Blend the neck and underarm, using the original sloper Or use the original neckline as a template.
as a curve template, so that the new sloper retains To indicate the fitted waist, trace the side seam from the
original sieper.
the original curves.
Note: It may look as if the neck has increased by a
total of '14', but after blending, it should have only
increased by %" due to the nature of the curves.
Repeat for the front sloper.

Large Extra Large

Medium
small
Extra small 9
1 /os

Neck drop
1 1••
7
 368 CHAPTER 11 OVERSIZED PROJECTS

r
I

1
2

n~E~ BL~~~L
MED MED
-~

. __J

----
SLOPER SHIFTING TO CREATE SECOND LAYER
Alternate method of cutting out sweater slopers:
SLEEVE SLOPERS
To save space and oak-tag. place front and back together
as illustrated.
Then fold on the fold line of center/front and center/back.
The sleeve sloper may be increased on the light paper
fold, as half, then opened and traced onto oak-tag.
Trace the first section of the sleeve, as indicated.
"••
•
In order to use these slopers, you must trace the back
twice and the front twice, using the center as the fold line.

ti
•
I
I
•

Shift the sloper out 'Is" and trace the Shift the sloper down ';.'' and trace Shift t he sloper out 'Is" and trace, as
next section. the next section. indicated.

/1
. .
1/8; ~-------!
' .
'
'' ' '
II :

' ____ j
'' ..
'' '
'' '''
'' ''

Shift the sloper down 'Is".

Shift the sloper back in and trace.
Shift the sloper in 'Ia".
 OV ERSIZED PROJECTS CHAPTER 11 369

··- --~ .. 114

I ~
\ ..
\ ..
\ -·--·· ·

~ ',

Shift the sloper back up 'Is" and trace Shift the sloper up 'Ia". Shift the sloper up 1/." as indicated.
as indicated.
You should have gone full circle and
be exactly where you started.
Cut out the paper sloper on the fold,
open it up, and trace again onto the
oak-tag.
Always cut the sleeve full/open, and do
not put a crease in your sleeve sloper,
as it will wear out along that edge too
fast.

Assignment #6
Create your own version of Style # 10-002, zip front oversized
turtleneck with a front facing a nd back neck twill tape.
Create a 3" high, finished collar.
Use a 24" sepa rating zipper.
Add a 11/z" hem allowance and hand hem, or blind h em
the sweater .
Cut and sew this garment using a purchased sweater knit.

Test Your Knowledge of the

Material in this Chapter 4. How can you figure out how much larger to
1. How much la r ger sh ould th e over sized make the sleeve?
5. How can we ensure that the ribbed cu ffs fit
slop er b e?
2. What size is t h e oversized sloper? ? snugly?
sized sloper ·
3 · When should you use a n over
_ _ _ _C~H A
T E R 2
Four-Way-Stretch

About This Chapter

This chapterc introduces
b the PI .mclp
- . 1es of t
way-s t ret ch 1a rics. The patterns ar . ~o-way- and four-
of stretch; the difference become e Identical for both types
wears the garment, and areas 0 ; ~~p:~nt when the customer
original shape, causing baggy
forth.
k:
Ie c do not return to their
ees, crotches, waists, and so

.......hfii-1~1~
stretches across the fabric

Stretches only across the fabric, and

the stretch is entirely derived from the
stretches across the fabric
as well as tengthw1se

Stretches across as well as up and

down the fabric. The additional stretch
• s.lfelchet 1etOU lhe labnC
aswe"aslef\{lthwlte
andh&s&P~~ndexadded

Stretches across as well as up and

stitches used when creating the fabric.
Garments should be made with the
stretch going around the body.
is derived from the texturing and
c rimping of the yarn used to knit the
fabric.
down the fabric. Supplementary
stretch is added to the yarn before
knitting by using spandex/Lycra~.

Most knits stretch more in one direction than in the other.

. · h w·se direction. When
M any kmts only stretch 111 t e cross l
using knits for dresses, jackets, pants,r skirts,
alwaysand ut1.1t1zes
?ps atnhde
k
sleeves ' the experienced patternmad.1e t.10n of stretch encn- ·.
built-in stretch of knits so that the rec
t t degree of st 1.et ch should
cles the figure. However, the grea es . catsuits, leotards, or
go up a nd down the torso for bodysUl~sthe crotch, to allow for
any other garment that passes througk 1.t are rarely used for
maximum mobility; one-way-stretch ~ s er raised her arms
~hese garments, because when the om ct~~ .
tt would be uncomfortable 1n the cro tt · ·ns are created identl-
Two-way- and four-way-stretch pa bet sed interchangeably.
cally, mca ning thesamcPatterns maY e u 371
C HAPTER 12 FOUR - WAY- STRETC H

that garments made with two-way

Please! notlel. f~owes:egr, on the body at the knees, elbows, and
stretc 1 W I o .en fabric doesn't h ave a ny memo1.y or e1ast 1.c-
crotc h becauS e tile .
. d ' II t eturn to its origmal s h ape wh enbworn.
1ty an w1 no r
Also note that one-way-stretch patterns may e used with
r
,our-way-s t 1.e tcl1 fabrt·cs as long as the garment does not need
lengthwise reductions. For example, a one-way-stretch skirt
may be cu t us1·ng a fiour-way-stretch fabnc because there is
nothing holding the skirt down at t~e bo~tom hem (referred
to as a n anchor), so the lengthwise dtrectwn of stretch I S not
utilized a t all.
Distinct and separ ate four-way-stret ch pa.tterns are
only necessary when the stretch of th~ garment I S anchored
through the crotch, such as with catsUits, bodysUits, leotards,
and one-piece swimsuits.

Four-Way-Stretch Slopers
Rule of thumb: 5" will stretch to 10" or more m both
directions.
Four-way-stretch garments ar e not just for swimsuits and
activewear. The increased use of spandex in more a nd more
knits results in mor e r esilient fabrics that don't bag or sag
when wor n. When you u se super-four -way-st retch fabrics, the
patt ern can and should be simpler becau se of the fabric's in-
nate ability t o mold around the body.
Many four-way-str et ch fabrics don't n ecessarily look like
activewear fabrics, so the garments creat ed with them don't
have to be activewear. Because knitted fabrics with spandex
have excellent stretch and excellent memory, they allow us to
create form-fitting garments that hold their sh ape without the
need for tailoring or for zipper s and other fast ener s.
For maximum mobility a nd tight fit, four-way-stretch gar-
ments must h ave negative ease, meaning that they must be
smaller tha n th e actua l body. When dra fting for super stretch,
the designer must reduce the body measurements to compen-
sate for the str etch. While each combination of knit stitches
a nd fiber content r equires a n individua l solution, an average
10 percent r eduction applied to vertical and horizontal mea-
surements will result in a basic fit. Because it is much easier
to take in an oversized garment th a n to let out a too-tight
garment, note tha t a ll measurements should be exaggerated
until a fter the fitting.

Four-Way-Stretch Reductions
Rule of thumb: 10 percent smaller in crosswise direction with-
out any reductions in lengthwise direction; 10 percent smaller
in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics
that stretch 100 percent in both directions.
 FOUR-WAY- STRETCH CHAPTER 12 373

Only four-way-stretch sl
h 1 h opers are
pass t roug 1 t e cr otch and sh ld _used for garment h
lengthwise str
d etch
· . ou ets, m order to U tT s t t hat
I IZe e
These re uct10ns may a! so b e u sed
for two-way-stretch
fabrics.

MEASUREMENT CHART
The following draft will use the "Misses Medi ..
ments in the standard column 0 r use the s1ze
. um
range
measurements·
that you wish.however, for a personal sieper. substitute the measure-

Reduce Extra Extra

by5% X Extra Extra Extra Extra
# Measurement Standard .90-10% Small Small Small Medium Large Large Large

1 Bust 34 112 X .90 28% 29 '1· 31 32 33 '1• 34%

30'1•
Waist 26'12 X .90 21 '1• 22 23 23'1• 24 31• 26'1• 27 112
2
Hip 37 '12 X .90 31 32 33 31· 34% 36 37%
3 32'1•
9 112 9% 9 '1a

...
Crotch depth 10% X .90 9 9'1a 9'1• 9%

$
4 22'1s
Waist to knee 23 % X .90 20 % 20'1a 22 1/e 22'1• 22% 22'12
5 38
Waist to ankle 39 '1• X .90 34% 34'!. 37 37 '1• 37'12 37 31·
6 7 112 7 '1s
Ankle B'l• X .90 7 7'1• 7 '1· 7% 7 %
7 13'1• 13%
14 '1• X .90 12 1
12 1· 12 1
12 12 3
1· 13
8 Knee 2'1• 2%
Front crotch 2% X .90 2 2 2 2 '1• 2'1•
9 3'1• 3% 3'12
Back crotch 3% X .90 2 71• 3 3 3'1•
10 1 '1a 1 1le

::
1
X .90 1 1 1 1 1 1e
11 Crotch angle 1 '1a 16 '1•
15% 1
15 12
3
15 1• 16
Nape to waist 16% X .90 14 1la 14 '1• 2 112

..........-
12 2'12 2 112 2'12 2'12
2 112 no reduction 2% 2% 'I•
13 Back neck 'Ia 'Ia 'I• 'Ia
'Ia no reduction % % 6'12
14 Back neck rise 5 112 5 31• 6 6'1•
5 '/• no reduction 5 11a 5'1•
7'1a 7 31•
15 Shoulder length 7 '1• 7% 7 112
no reduction 7 7 11a 23'12
16 Across back 7% 23 '1a 23'1• 23 3la
no reduction 22 % 22 71a 23 1 '12
17 Sleeve length 23 1/a 1 112 1 '12 1 '12 1 112
no reduction 1% 1'12 11 %
18 Shoulder pitch 1 112 10 10% 10 31• 11

.....,.
X .90 9% 9% 6'1a 7
19 Bicep 11'12 5% 6 6 '/•
X .90 5 5 '/• 15'/a 15'/•
Wrist 6% 14 3 14 7
/a 15
20 14'12 14% /•
6 '12 6 3/•
14 7/a no reduction 6 1/a 6 1/• 6%
21 Neck 6
ff/JWIIJ 22 Bust span 7 X .90 5 7/a
9'/e 9 3
/• 9 7
/a 10 10 1/a 10 1/•
X .90 9
Bust level 10'1a

...
23
24 Upper chest 32

::: Four-Way-Stretch Sloper Draft

,.,.
~ A-B nape to waist
Extra Medium
Large
Extra
Large
Extra
Extra Large

..,.
Extra small 16 16'/•
small 15%
Extra Small 3 15 112 8 8 1/a
7 7/a

.,.
15 /a
f/iliiJIA Nape to Waist 14 1/a
14 •;..
7 7/a
73/.1
7'1•
Half-way 7

::
~
~
 374 CHAPTER 12 FOUR-WAY- STRETCH

=t
~

A-D = back neck

A-C = half of A-8
A-E = Back neck rise
Square a guideline at A-8-C.
A-F = shoulder pitch

E
A
.-r1

G
I.
E-G = shoulder length (goes from point F to wherever that
measurement lines up on line F, the shoulder pitch line).

Square a line from the shoulder at point E past line F, the

shoulder pitch line.

Since the front will be drafted on top of the back, the measurements need to be divided into four.

Extra Extra Extra Extra

Extra Small Small Small Medium Large Large Extra Large

'I• of waist 5'1e 5'1• 6% 671• 7% 8% 9%

'I• of hip 8% B'le 9'1• 9% 10% 11 11e 12'1e
Crotch depth 10'12 10% 10'1• 10% 107la 11'1e 11%
'13 of crotch depth 3 112 3 112 3'12 3112 35!1 3'1• 3'1•
 FOUR -WAY-STRETCH CHAPTER 12 375

BACK NECK
FRONT NECK
oraw a curved line as illustrated. Remembe
'/2" from E and W' from A. Draw free h r to square for Draw
,~ .. f a curved rme as Illustrated.
. Remember to square for
line with your curved ruler. and and clean up the r 2 rom E and W' for F. Draw free hand and clean up the
tne wtth your curved ruler.

4
F

c
H

H-K = 'h " on a bias angle.

C-H = across back measurement, square up to shoulder,
and label the point where it intersects the shoulder line
point J (it does not meet up with point G).

C-1 = bust measurement.

K =half of H-J .

Extra Extra
Extra Large Large Extra Large
Extra Medium
Small Small
Extra Small 7'h 7% 7%
1 7'/4 7'1e 8'1e 8%
Across back 7 7 /•
?'A 8
7 '1e 7'12
Bust 7'/•
 CHAPT[R 12 FOUR WAY-STRETCH

G \
bad. lronl
armholo ": <lr mholo

1.'4

' K I
.:'f

H H

Draw the armhole b; connect,ng paonts J·K·I Draw free Because the sleeve woll be drafted on the fold without any
hand. then clean up the lone wl!h vour curved ruler dofference between the front and back. and consequently
no armhole notches. you must compensate for the nec-
essary dofference on the body at the armhole. The back
armhole os '·<" larger than the front armhole.
Draw a guodelone of 'li', tn towards the body.
r •
Draw front armhole, G-K- 1.
1
Blend and smooth front armhole curve .
J
..
.......
....
-......
IIIII

....
...
C-1 = bust
8-L = crotch depth
L-M = hip
Connect all points with straight lines, 8-L-N-M-1.
M-N = divide into thirds.

Extra
Extra Small
Extra
Small Small
8-Q = waist measurement.

Medium Large
Extra
Large
Extra
Extra Large
..
....
Hip 31 32 7
32 /s

•
33% 34% 36 37%
Crotch depth 9 9'1• 9'1• 9% 9 112 9% 9%

•
Thirds 3 3 3'/• 3'/• 3 1/s 3 '/• 3'/•
Waist 21 1/ s 22 23 23 7/s 24% 26 1/s 27 '12
 FOUR-WAY-STRETCH CHAPTER 12 377

'
J
H

"
r0
o~./ -~~
•

:{ P'R
r>

Q-P = draw a curved line

If you place #4 of the variform curve at the waist point
Q, then pivot the curve until it reaches point P, you can
achieve a nice hip curve. Alternatively, you can exaggerate
the hip and correct it in first fitting.
L-R = front crotch extension
L-S = crotch angle, on the bias
T-S-R ~ To draw a balanced crotch, place a mark up the
curve an amount equal to the crotch extension, and draw
the curve through all three points, T-S-R.
Draw the curve by hand and clean it up using the French
curves.

Extra Extra
Extra Extra
Small M edium Large Large Extra Large
Extra Sma ll Small
2 '/• 2'/• 2'/• 2%
Front crotch 2 2 2
1 1 1/a 1'/• 1 '/•
1 1
Crotch ang le 5% 5% 4 7/a
4 7/a 5 5 1/a 5'1•
Grain 37 '12 37'/. 38
34 7/a 37 37'/•
Waist to ankle 34% 22 % 22 112 22 %
20'1s 22 1/a 22 1/•
Waist to knee 20%
 CHAPTER 12 FOUR - WAY- STRETCH

v
_1_:' "
M 0
M 0
... v
o-/. v
o-,.: p.;
P-i _& l R
NL

w = half way between point N and point R

To locate the knee, find the halfway mark between point U .
and point w, then measure an additional1 " up. Note that th1s
Square a line up from W all the way to the waist and label is between the crotch and the ankle, not the waist and ankle.
pointV.
X-Y = knee measurement
At V, square down to ankle and label (waist to ankle).
X-Z = knee measurement
V-W = waist to ankle
W-AA = ankle measurement

W-BB = ankle measurement

M 0
/ v
0- :'

~
:\ l :

:x y: knee
I.,.halfwa)'

N-X-Z-AA-Y-R = connect with straight lines

Blend the hip (point N) and knee curves (points X andY).

Extra Extra
Extra Small Extra Extra
Small Small Medium Large Large Extra Large
Knee 3 3 1/a 3 '/a 3 1/a 3 1/4
Ankle 1% 3 '/• 3%
1% 1 3/.
Back crotch 2 '/a
1'/ a 1 7/a 1 7/a 1 7/a
3 3 3 1/a
Front crotch 2 3 '/• 3% 3 112
2 2 2 1/a
Additional 7/a 2 1/a 2 1/ • 2%
1 1 1 1 1 1/a 1'/a
 FOUR -WAY-STRETCH CHAPTER 12 379

'\_A

M _Q B
0 ~1 v additional
pi ry
s /,amount
N\ u ,l RBB

~ J
--+ _ " - blend

Z AA

R-BB = additional amount

Illustration shows how the front and back are interrelated
Because this draft is on top of the front dart, and you've and which lines are required.
already added the front crotch amount, it is only necessary
to add the additional amount to equal the back crotch total.
BB-Y = connect with a straight line
At Y, blend a smooth curve.
Place notches at waist, hip, and knees.

I
CATSUfT

-
FRONT
,....,
MEO

te the front from the back.

Trace and separa . lines. because it may
ith two (2) gratn
Label the siopers w
be cut either way. hi s waist. and legs.
fit throughout the P ; and test the fit on a
To correct the sample garmen
must make up a
you dress-form.
model or
 380 CHAPTER 12 FOUR-WAY-STRETCH

S UIT SLOPERS
TRUEING THE CAT checking that all seams match
. and true them, . t h
Trace out separate pattern
h p•eces
/ders armholes, un derarms ' Inseam, cro c ' out-
and are accurate at the s ou '
seam, and neckline. . b ith the type of stretch.
.
Label the pattern pieces, re membenng to Ia e 1 w k
Notch at the waist, hips, knees, and center back nee . .
I all ieces with black for Med•um.
Also remember to /abe P . d 'th the corrections indicated on the
This s/oper must be cut, sewn, and f•tte WI

block.the back and front inseams together the way that they will be when sewn.
Place
Match from the knee notch upwards. .
Check to see that the crotch is bien d ed .In a smooth' continuously curved hne.
Ensure that from the knee notch down matches perfectly. .
1 the difference between the two po1nts. How-
l't
Normally when we blend, we sp t h . correct and the back crotch must be
ever, in this instance, the front cro c IS .
lowered by a very small amount to match •t.
Note that some des•gners
· pre fer to leave the excess in the pattern as ease in the
back thigh area.

""""-~
FRONT
MED
4-way

Place the shoulder seams together as they will be when

sewn. Place the side seams together as they will be when sewn.

Blend a smooth armhole in a continuous line. Match from the waist notch upwards.
Blend a smooth neck. Check to ensure that the side seams are exactly the same
length and that the notches match.
Check to ensure that the shoulders are exactly the same
length.
Blend the armhole in a smooth, continuously curved line.
If there is any discrepancy, split the difference between
the two, taking some away from the larger side and adding
to the smaller side.

Blend as necessary.
 FOUR-WAY-STRETCH C HAPTER 12 381

Checking the Side Seams

Place the front and back catsuit slopers on t f h
. seams are exact!op th
check to see t h at t h e s1de o eac other'
that every noteh mateh es exactly. Y e same and

Four-Way-Stretch Seam Allowances

Four-way-stretch fabrics should be serged with a three-thread
serger, as the fabric needs to stretch a lot more than other
fabrics. If a three-thread serger is not available, a four-thread
will work.

Shoulder
Twill tape is not necessary in the shoulders if
the fabric has memory (meaning that it will
return to its original measurement after being
stretched).
Side seams .14" or %"
1

Armholes Y4" or %"

Neckline Y4" or %"
Hem 1" for straight hems
Y2" for curved hems
Zipper W' seams for invisible zipper application
 ,' $.' l'liAI'H. H 12 FOUR·WAY·STRETCH

Greatest Degree of Stretch

When creating two-way· a nd four-way-stret ch garments,
usuallv one direction stretches slight ly more t h a n the other.
Experienced patternmakers conside r this a nd use it to t heir
CB benefit.
\Vhen creating dresses a nd tops, the great est direction of

i-
-< greatest degree of stretct)..
stretch should be utilized going a round t he body. However, for
catsuits. leotards, and bodysuits, or a ny garment tha t passes
through the crotch and t he shoulders, t he g r eat est direction
of stretch should be uti lized going up and down the body.

I
Usually the gr eatest degree of stretch is crosswise; how-
ever, some knit fabrics, s uch as swimsuit fabrics, ar e s pecially
knit to have the greatest direction of stretch going len gthwise
parallel to the selvage. T his is because th ese garments pas~
through the crotch and would be u ncomfort a ble when the cus-
tomer raises her shoulder s.
Tops, dresses, pants, skirts, a nd sweater s should use the
greatest degree of stretch going arou nd th e body.

CATSUIT CATSUIT

'"""'
,...,
M£0

........ ....,
SAC'
MEO

!.~

- ~ .i'
.l{ ~
.,

! fl~

Catsuits, bodysuits, leotar ds or a ny other

~arment that is a nchored by the' crotch s hould
a~ed the g r eatest degree of str etch going up
an. ohw n the body, s o t h at when t h e cu stom er
raises er arms ' t h ere I·S no discomfor
. t in the
cro t ch ar ea.
CATSUIT WITH M OCK NECK AND INVISIBLE ZIPPER
This basic catsuit should be drafted, sewn, and fitted to
complete the sloper draft.
It will have a simple mock neck with an invisible zipper in
the center back.
 FOUR- WAY- STRETCH C HAPTER 12 383

::· ~-~--)>
,E_i""''"~l· ~

~
,,-

I
CATSUIT
;-':l I
CATSUIT
I
CATSUI'T
CATSUIT
:a
.·-.-
BACK FRONT BACK FRONT
MED MED 16 ~:1 M ED
4-..y
MED
4-way 4-way
Slr~l_ch_ ; atrell:h
"'"'"' \~

This pattern requires a zipper to get the garment on. Use a

To create the mock neck collar:
'h" seam allowance the length of the zipper, excluding the
Double the height, because the collar will be folded in half distance that the zipper will go up into the collar.
and all three layers sewn together. The zipper extension is W' by 16" for an 18" zipper with a 2"
Illustrated at 4" for a 2" finished collar. collar.
To determine the length, measure the front and back
necklines and double that measurement, as you've only
measured half of the total neckline.
,rrq ·- - -~~rt~~~-- _-·p,n·
114" ••• 1/-4' :114"
[,. I " · .!
: ~~t.:·;
tff\i ~~T \ . FRONT
1:
:Zi
\i
MED
4-way
$tr8~
~
·--.....
MED

114' /
··-~
Add '/.'' seam allowances for the three-thread serge or W' seam allowances

for the four-thread serge.

111"
The three-thread serge is much stretchier.

Square up a 1" hem allowance.

:,w
w
114" 114" :

G 1"hem 1" hem

Extra Extra
Large Extra Large
Large
Extra Medium
small 15'/• 15'/•
Extra small 15
Extra small 14 7/•

Neck 14 1/2
 384 CH A PTE R 12 FO UR-WAY-S TR ET C H

I
CATSVIT
FRONT

··-.....,
MED

FLARED-LEG CATSUIT
l ....
.
Widen the c1rcum f erence of the hem as much as required.
Create a flared or bell-bottom leg on the catsuit.
You can st art the flare at any point on the leg that you wish.
Remem ber th at Whatever amount you add to one side of
the leg must be equal on the other side of the leg.

CATLIT
FRONT
LIT
CAT
BACK
CATL IT
FRONT
LIT
CAT
BACK
MEO MEO MED MEO
4-way 4-w ay 4-way 4-way
stretCh

WIDE-LEG CATSUIT .....J ........ j

&q"l;a1 amou--nt$
You can easily create a wide-leg
Decide on the width you require at the For a wider leg, you must increase the
catsuit.
hem of the pants and square a line up length of the crotch seam and blend
to the hip.
into the waist.
Make sure that whatever amount you
add to one side of the leg is the same
on the other side of the leg, as well as
the front and back.

Blend the back inseam if required .

 FOUR-WAY-STRETCH CHAPTER 12 385

CATSUIT CATSUIT
BACK FRONT
MED MED
4-way 4-way
stretch stratch

HALTER
This type of halter catsuit is often used in active sports- Draft the collar to fit the sieper neckline.
wear, as it allows complete freedom of movement of the
arms.

~.-

·.

Add the necessary seam allowances as illustrated.

Draw in the halter style lines anywhere you wish.
Remember to cover the bust area completely.
This draft will have a 1" shoulder seam.
The halter style lines do not have any seam allowances, as
they will be finished with W' binding; for other finishes, you
may have to include seam allowances.
 86 CHAPTER 12 FOUR-WAY-STRETCH

~ .....
(
.....,......_....... ,.
,/ ·
..}··

BACKLESS HALTER
Add the necessary seam allowances
Th1s halter style is backless with a Draw in the style lines as you wish ,
as illustrated.
collar. remembering to cover the bust area
completely. Draft the collar to fit the original cat-
The back may be lower or higher, as suit sloper. I
you require.
•
I
1112"_.,.1•

rr· ~ 7\
match and ;

~~i 9
\ Is· •
'•

TANK NECKLINE CATSUIT

Catsuits with tank necklines are often used in active

Draw any style of tank top on the slopers.
sportswear.
Raise the underarm 112" and take in 112", unless some bind-
ing, banding, or elastic will eventually raise and tighten the
underarm.
 FOUR-WAY-STRETCH CHAPTER 12 387

CATSUIT WITHOUT SIDE SEAMS

A catsuit may be developed without any side seam, which

Place the front and back slopers beside each other.
makes it very easy to draft color blocked designs.
Remove the extra volume from the center front and center
back areas.
Try to keep the volume exactly the same and balanced.

. . f the waist to the ankle of the draft.

Draw a gUideline rom
ld pear once the
Illustration shows how the draft shou ap h front
. volume has been moved f rom the sides t o t e
waist
and back.
 388 CHAPTER 12 FOUR-WAY-STRETCH

Remove the extra volume gained from the inseams. The illust rat ion shows the final sloper, without any side
Remember to keep the new leg balanced and even. seams.

CJSUIT
I:
CATSUtT;
BACK FRONT !
MED MED :
4-way 4-way l
stretch stretch!

CATSUIT WITHOUT CENTER FRONT SEAM

The catsuit may also be developed without a center front

seam. Extend th e center front all the w ay down to the hem.
 FOU R -WAY-STRETCH CHAPTER 12 389
I
CATSUIT

""""
.....,
MED

-"'

\:

\.

Take the amount of volume that will be lost at the front and
move it to the back using tracing paper.

CATSUIT WITHOUT SIDE SEAM

OR CENTER FRONT SEAM

I I I
CAJSUIT CATLIT
I
CATSUIT CATSUIT
CATSUIT
BACK
CATSUIT
FRONT
BACK
MED
FRONT
MED
BACK
MEO
FRONT
MED ......,
MED ......,
MED

stt1tch
CB
CB

1
h
~. 4-way •. 4-way

:·~\"'""'
CATSUIT
\ . .>: RONTIBACK
MED
CUT 1

.... ·· .t:-;
\'·
i !;

·t without side
t a catsUI
. ou can crea e eked styles,
By combining the prev1ous drafts, Y . ful tor color-blo
This IS use
seams-or a center front seam. . tersecting.
earns 1n
Whereby yoy wouldn't want t he s
390 CHAPTER 12 FOUR - WAY-STRETCH

OR CENTER FRONT SEAMS

HALTER WITHOUT SIDE SEAMS

CB CB

.. -' ,., ~elF CA,:~

,

FRONT/BACK
MEO
CUT I
1/4"

COLOR BLOCKED CATSUIT

SOME PRACTICE STYLES

MOCK NECK T-BACK RAGLAN

WITHOUT A HOOD SLEEVELESS COLQR-BL()Ct<S>
 FOUR-WAY-STRETCH CHAPTER 12 391

TiGHTS WITH SIDE SEAMS

In thiS section, we develop tights slopers with Side
. seams and without.

In order to prevent the tights from riding down at the waist

tomer bends over, we must ra1se the back waist Th. . when the cus-
when the crotch of the pant is really high and tig.ht ~~~sdonly ~ecessary
fabric to allow for bending over. oesn t have extra

I
CATSUrT
I
CATSUIT
BACK FRONT
r.t£0
........ ....,
MED

..- ""'"'
.....
31... --- ·····318" 318"·---- ...•
I I
TIGHTS
BACK
._,
MEO

...."'
........,""
TlG><TS
FRONT
MED

i -{

Create an elastic casing the same as Add nothing at the center front.
Raise center back waist 3//'.
for one-way-stretc h pants.
Side-seam %".

TIGHTS WITHOUT SIDE SEAMS

Place front and back slopers on paper.

Match at the hip and the ankle.

Trace around the slopers to about 3" above the waist.

Remove slopers.
Measure the amount of the gap between the front and back outseams.
Take in each of the inseams an amount equal to half of the gap.

Fo llow the shape of the gap exactly.

Remove exactly the same shape from each leg.

Keep the widths identical.

 392 CHAPTER 12 FOUR-WAY-STRETCH

Remove half of the

Tum excess mlo a dan
excess from
Tum excess Into an ease
center front and
center back I
DART INTAKE Option #3
Option #2
Option #1 Change the entire waist excess into No ease.

Add seam allowances and turn the

ease by drawing a straight line across Remove half of the excess from the
waist excess into a dart. This is some- the waist and ignoring the dart. center front and half from the center
times the option a designer wants. This will create a lot of gathers when back, the same way as with the legs.
elastic is inserted, and may not be the In this case, the waist will be smaller
desired look. than the elastic, causing it to look odd
on the hanger.
However, if this is for dancers or gym-
nasts, it will be suitable, as they would
prefer a smooth flat waist and don't
require the garment to look attractive
in the store.
!
•..
\ I
DRAWSTRING WAIST TIGHTS
For drawstring elastic, replace the front notch with two
notc hes '12'' apart to create an opening for the drawstring to •
{ I
I
pass through.

nr~-
,. Knee ,.
- - - . ;. , - - - - i- - - - - - -:- - - - .... - - -

1 r '-; .
2"1

EIGHT-PANEL BICYCLE SHORTS

I.. .
BICYCLE SHORT SHAMMY
To create eight-panel bicycle shorts:
Create the shamm .
Trace out the tights to 1" above the knee level. leather to soft Y as Illustrated and cut out in a light
en the crotch araa for riding.
Create a princess seam.

Notch and separate the pattern pieces.

 393
FOUR-WAY-STRETCH CHAPTER 12

rest You~ Kno_wledge of the

Material m Th1s Chapter
What is a one-way stretch?
1· What is a two-way stretch?
;· What is a four-way stretch?
: When should you use a fo~r-way stretch sloper?
4_ Must four-way stretch fabncs only be used for active wear?
5 What is the d1fference between the front armhole and
6
· the back armhole?
Which serger should be used for four-way stretch fabrics?
7
: What it "the greatest degree of stretch"?
8
. When creating tops, dresses, pants, skirts, and sweaters,
9
which direction should use the "greatest degree of stretch''?
. When creating catsuits, bodysuits, leotards or any gar-
10
ment that is anchored by the crotch, which direction
should use the "greatest degree of stretch"?
 =--====:r=c=EH=EA=~pn_-=r[}ECER==J::1::__:3~=====
Bodysuits, Leotards, and
One- and Two-Piece Swimsuits

About this Chapter

This chapter covers development of patterns for bodysuits,
leotards, and one-piece and two-piece swimsuits. The slop-
ers may be created from scratch or developed from the cat-
suit sloper. The leotard sloper may be used to create leotards,
bodysuits, or any top with panty attached, as well as one-piece
swimsuits. Panties and swimsuit bottoms are also covered in
this chapter, but will need a separate sloper. Since there is
nothing anchoring the top of the swimsuit, it ~eh aves like .a
one-way stretch. Note that the catsuit sleeve w11l also fit th1s
sloper, or you can follow the sleeve instructions in Chapter 8.

Four-Way-Stretch Reductions
Rule of thumb: 10% smaller in crosswise direction without
any reductions in lengthwise direction; 10% smaller w the
lengthwise direction. d ff slopers for fabrics
Use these measurements whe~ ra. mg
that stretch 100 percent in both dJr~ctwn~ for garments that
Four-way-stretch slopers are on Y u~e der to utilize the
t h d shoulders m or
pass through t h e cro c an t ' tch They may also be
1
lengthwise as well as the hori~on~ut t~:re ~ill be no memory
used for two-way-stretch fabncs, d tretch out of shape
in the garment, so it will tend to sag an s
on the body after wearing.

395
 ND TWO - PIECE SWIM SUITS
396 CHAPTER 13 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS . AND ONE - A

FOUR-WAY-STRETCH REDUCTIONS
----
Extra
E xtra Extra Extra
Extra Extra Large Large Large
Small Medium
Small Small
14 18 20
6 10
Multiply by 0 2
31 32 33'1• 34%
1 3 29 • 30 1 8 24 31.. 26'1• 27';,
Bust 0.90 28 ·• 23 518
2 Wa1st 21'' 22 23 34 % 36 37'1.
'0.90 32 • 33 31•
3 H1p '0.90 31 32 gJ/&
g •;, 9% 9'1•
4 9 '' 9 ,'" 22'h 22%
Crotch depth '090 9 22 1 4
22'1•
5 Wa1st to knee "0.90 20'" 20'·• 22'' 37'h 37'1. 38
37 37 1·1
6 Wa1st to ankle '0.90 34'• 34 • 7"1• 7'h 7%
1 7''.. 7%
7 Ankle '090 7 ] /A
12 3/4 13 13 '1• 13%
8 Knee . 0.90 12 12 1 12 1 2'1•
..
2'1• 2'1• 2 31o
9 Front crotch X 0.90 2 2 2 3 '1e 3'12
3 3 116 3'1•
10 Back crotch X 0.90 2 • 3 1 'Ia 1 'Ia 1 'le
11 1 1 1
Crotch angle '0.90 t 15 11• 16 16 •;.
1 15 1 fe 15 '12
12 Nape to wa1st 0.90 14 'I• 14 "
2 •;, 2'h 2'h 2 '12
13 Back neck no reduct1on 2'. 2 318 2 1/1
'I• 'I• 'I• 'I•
14
15
Back neck nse
Shoulder length
no reduct1on
no reduct1on
'··
5 s 11
''•
5'1•
''•
5'h 5 31• 6 6'1• 6'12
7 '1• 7'1• 7'h 7% 7 '!.
16 Across back no reduction 7 7'1•
23 23'1• 23'1• 23'1e 23 '12
17 Sleeve length no reduct1on 22 31• 22 71• 1 •;, 1 •;,
18 Shoulder p1tch 1% 1 •;, 1 '12 1 •;, 1 '12
no reduct1on 11
19 B1cep 9% 10 10% 10'/. 11 %
0.90 g J/8

20 Wnst 5 5'1• 5% 6 6 '1• 6% 7

'0.90
21 Neck no reduct1on 14 '12 14% 14'1• 14 '1• 15 15 '1• 15'1•
22 Bust span 0.90 5 7/o 6 6 '/e 6 '1• 6% 6 '12 6'!.
23 Bust level 0.90 9 9 '/o 9 '/• 9 '/• 10 10 '/s 10 '/.

-----A

_ ____ c

-----8

LEOTARD SLOPER
A-8 = nape to waist
....
..
The leotard sloper may be used to create leotards,
bodysuits. or any top with panty attached, as well as one- A-C = half of A-B
piece swimsuits.
A, B , C = square out lines

Extra

•
Extra
Extra Small Small Small Extra Extra
Medium Large

•••
Large Extra Large
Nape to waist 14 % 14 '1• 15'1. 15 '12
Half-way 7 7 1/e 15'1. 16 16'/•
7% 7'1. 7 7lo 8 8 '/a
 RODYSUITS, LEOTARDS. A
NO ONE- AND TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS CHAPTER 13 397

JLE - A
_________o~--·-- ·~~
• F DitCh A

c
c

--B
B

A-D back neck measurement E-G shoulder length measurement goes from pomt E to
D-E back neck nse wherever that measurement lines up on the shoulder pitCh
line. line F
E-F shoulder pitCh

Extra Extra Extra Extra

Extra Small Small Small Medium Large Large Extra Largo

Shoulder pitCh 1 '12 1 '12 1 112 1 '· 1' ,

Back neck 2% 2'12 2'/, 2'12 2'/:;. 2''·
Back neck nse >;, 'lo 'I• 'lo ,,, 'I•
Shoulder 5'/e 5 112 5 31• 6 6'/. 6'h

G'~A

E
c
/~·- ..... A

G - ~ F

Draw a curved front neckline as illustrated.

AI E, square a line towards line F.
Remember to square for 'h" at E and '12" at F.
 ~,.,._,
""" 'HAPl ER 13 BODYSUITS. LEOTARDS , AND ONE- AND TW O - PIECE SWIMSUITS

-r~;
E H
b across back
c

~A
G -~:J, F
B

Draw a curved back neckline as illustrated.

C-H - across back: square up to the shoulder line and
Remember to square for ·2 atE and 1t2 at A. Iabeii, note that it may not line up with point G.

·Z?\: A E
•
L: •
Gj

•
J H
c
J H
•
I
I

B
B
•••
C-J = bust measurement
H-K = '12'' on bias angle.
•••
Extra Extra
.•.
••
Extra Small Small Extra
Small Medium Extra
Across back 7 Large Large
7 1/a 1 Extra Large
Bust 7 /c 7%
28 3/a 29 1/c 7 1/ 2
30 1/a 7% 7'!.

.,.•
•;, of bust 7 1/a 31
7 3/a 7 '12 32 33'/•
7 3/, 34 %
8 8% 8%

--
•
,
"'
 BODYSUITS, LEOTA RDS , AND ONE- AND TWO - PIECE SWIMSUITS CHAPTER 13 399

r:
A

back
armhole

K:
c
H

B B

AI K, square a guideline in both directions. Draw the back armhole from point G-K-1.
Square the line for 'h'' at G and at I.

E E
A A

back 114" front back front

armhole armhole armhole armhole
K· K"
c c
H H

B B

Draw a guideline 'h'' in from the back armhole. Extend the center front the amount of the crotch depth.

Because the sleeve will be drafted on the fold, with no dif-

ference between the front and the back, you must include
that difference in the body portion of the garment.
Draw the front armhole from point G-K-1, at the inside
guideline.

Square the line for 'h'' at G and at 1.

Note that because the sleeve is drafted on the fold, with
no difference between the front and back curves, you must
exaggerate the difference in the body of the garment; this
Way, you can eliminate any notches on the sleeve and arm-
hole' red ucmg
· the chances of gettmg
. holes ·1n t h e garment .

Extra Extra Extra Extra

Extra Small Sma ll Small Medium Large Large Extra Large
~~d-ep_t_h----~~~~~~----~~~~.~----~9~~~.~------~9;~~.------~g~V,~----~9~5~~~--~~~9;~:.~~--
9 9
 P I ECE SWIMSUITS
400 ONE- AND TWO -
CHAPTER 13 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS , AND

E
A

A F

back front
armhole armhole
K'
c
c H

0 R
waist B

p
If
I

Or- -1%"

N M

Draw a guideline equal to the hip measurement. . v1de

D1 . •
the 11ne, waist to crotch ' into three equal sections.

E
E
A A
F

back front back front

:
armhole armhole armhole armhole
K' K'
c c
H H

ill
••
0
B

.,
••
••
N ' - - - - - ---'M
On B-0, measure and mark the waist measurement.
To draw the hip curve, line up #4 of the variform curve with
the waist and blend as well as possible into point Q .

Extra
Extra Small
Extra
Extra Extra
••
••
Small Small Medium Large Large Extra Large
Hip 7 3/4 8 8'1• 8 '/,
Crotc h depth 9 9 1/a 8% 9 9%
9 1/4 9%

•.
Thirds 3 3 3 1/a 9 112 9% 9%
3 1/a 3'/a
Waist 5'1• 5'1. 5'/. 3'1• 3'1•

..
6 6 1/ . 6 112 6%
 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- AND TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS CHAPTER 13 401

E
A
E
F A

back front
armhole armhole
c K.
c
H

0 R
B
waist

N c __ _ _ __, M

Divide line P into four sections. Draw a guideline 1'/,'' in from the center front. This will be
the width of the crotch.

E E
A A
F

back front back front

annhole annhole armhole armhole
K. K
c c
H H

0 R
0 R
waist
B
P If waist
B

Pt-
div:de ~ip i~to 4
Q 01-

N '------~ M
N '------~M

At the intersection of the upper hip, the new front guideline, At the mark closest to the side seam, raise '12".
and the bias angle, draw a 1%" line.
 NO TWO - PIECE SWIMSUITS
~'HAI"TER 13 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS. AND ONE- A

:'J: - ,\;. :
bad

·-I armhole
c
~ c
J H

fj.,"
N -- -
' >
M
'
~
Draw rn the front leg openrng by connecting the points
from 1 to 5.
Make a smooth, continuously curved lrne that blends into
Blend into the center front.
''
the front crotch lrne.
Draw freehand , then clean up the lines w1th the curved ruler.
'
E

l
f~:
A
F
G

baCk front back front

a'Ttlhc:Me armhole armhole armhole
K K
.j: H - C c
.V H

0 R
B
( warst
2 3
.G-...-;,
p1
·r
..
I y·¥.
Q '- '< 5

N M

For the back, connect a straight line from point P to the

front crotch line.
Find the center of that line and mark out %" + '/,'' + W'.
Redraw with curved lines. These lines are for the different
sizes of bottoms. Some medium customers have larger or
smaller bottoms, and it will depend on your target market
which curved line you incorporate.

I·
 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS
'AND ONE- AN
D TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS CHAPTER 13 403

CF

LEOTARD LEOTARD
SLOPER SLOPER
BACK FRONT
MED MED
(date) (date)

TRUEING THE LEOTARD SLOPERS

I To true the neckline and armholes. line up the slopers as

Trace and separate the leotard sloper as illustrated.
illustrated, as if they had been sewn and pressed open.
I
Make sure that the curves blend in a smooth and continu-
! ous manner and that there are NO points in the blend.

t
•
•
•
•
~
CB
CF

D CB blend
~
I
..
••
••
-
•• Match the underarms and blend the arm
smooth and continuously curved lines.
hole curves into
Blend the Ieg o P
.
ening at the side seam by matching the
.
t hes and walking the stde seams.
watst no c
Blend the leg op
ening into a smooth and continuously

•• curved line .

.-
-
 WO PIECE SWIMSU IT S
CHAPTER 13 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- AND T -

blend )

I
CB

Blend the crotch into a smooth and continuously curved

l
You will have to add an additional 1/4" to the crotch seams
line. in order to make the curve smooth enough to attach
elastic.

1 1
CATSUIT CATSUIT
BACK FRONT
MED MED
4-way 4-way
stretch stretch
1- r - -r-

0
"i!' ., "
.!:
c:
C) I!!
C) ·e
";;
'0
"
'0
C>

..
$
I!!
C)
..
$"'
I!!
C)

CREATING A LEOTARD SLOPER FROM A CATSUIT

Label the slopers as indicated.
Trace the upper part of the catsuit to just below the crotch.
Draw a guideline at the waist.

Extend the center front to below the crotch.

Square a line in at the crotch.
 OODYSUITS. LEOTARDS AND ON
' E- AND TWO - PIECE SWIMSUITS CHAPTER 13 405

, 1112"

Divide the waist to crotch into three Divide the top line into four parts. Draw a guideline 1'12'' away from the
equal parts. center front crotch line. Note this line
may not line up with points on upper
hip line.

At the intersection, find the bias and
draw a guideline.
Mark 1%" on the guideline.
At the mark closest to the side seam,
measure up 'h".
Draw a guideline parallel to the side Draw a curved line from the side seam
seams from the first mark. Follow the to the 'N' mark to the bias line, and
blend into the crotch.
exact hip curve.
Create one smooth and continuously
Mark the line 'h" + W' + W'.
curved line.
Use these marks when drafting higher-
cut, sexier swimsuits and leotards.
 PIECE SWIMSUITS
406 CHAPTER 13 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ON E -
AND TWO-

LEOTARD SLOPER BACK

Trace the upper part of the catsuit sloper to just below the Connect the points with a straight line.
crotch .
Find the middle of the line.
Draw a guideline at the waist.
Extend the center front to below the crotch.
Square a line from the center back at crotch level.
Place the front leotard draft onto the back draft and trace
the upper hip guideline and crotch guidelines.

~
~12"+112"

At the middle, measure out:

Draw the back leg opening from the crotch to the hip, with
'12'' for small; a continuously smooth line.
1" for medium;
1 '12'' for large buttocks.

Note: the customer may still be Small or Medium, but with

large buttocks.
 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- AND TWO - PIECE SWIMSUITS
~
smaller
( .
FRONT LEG OPENING
Cut the elastic 1" smaller than the
front leg opening measurement.
BACK LEG OPENING
Cut the elastic 1" smaller than the
back leg opening measurement.
CHAPTER 13 407
Elastic Reductions
Elastic. is of crucial importance when designing and creat -
~~g swu~1suits. Elastic will help keep the garment snug in
e crucial areas of the leg openings, the armholes, a nd even
n eckhnes.
The reductions for elastic depend on two variables. The
first variable depends on where the elastic is placed on th e
body. Some areas demand t ight ness, a nd other areas require
the elastic to be slightly looser. The other variable is the width
of the elastic, si nce wider elastic is much stronger th an t hin
elastic.
In the past, we would reduce 1" from the front-leg-opening
elastic measurement, with no reduction for the back opening,
but now most of the industry uses an elastic metering device
to attach the elastic, which str etches the elastic evenly a ll the
way around. Since the device cannot tell wh ether you a re sew-
ing the front or t he back, the industry h as changed practices
to r edu ce the elastic to an even 2" all the way around the leg
opening.
The seam a llowances for elastic are usually 1/ 1s" more
than the width of the elastic. If you have sever al layer s of fa b-
ric wrapping over the elastic (not a very good idea), you may
want to allow a little more, about Y32" extra, per layer of fabric
being wrapped with the elastic.
11/2"
11/2/ f> .
\ <>o-.,~~··.
e~_r.;,.
'"6 .
~..... \ "~;, . f{jF\
~ no reduction °1~1 ~
for armhole elastic
reduce elastic
/ by 2" total'-
ARMHOLE, NECKLINE, AND LEG You must raise and take in the under-
OPENING OPTIONS
arm for a cover-stitched armhole and
neckline. However, if you intend to
To create cover-stitched legs, arms, use elastic, binding, or some type of
and neckline: reducing trim, this is not necessary.
While it is possible to simply cover-
stitch hem the arm, neck, and leg
. if you do ' they will noth be ·11
opentngs,
very snug or tight to the body; t ey WI
gape and sit away from the body.
 408 IECE SWIMSUITS
CHAPTER 13 AND TWO - P
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE -

1/2" seam allowance

"7
112" seam allowance (
for coverstiched
for covershched edges

;~
:L
112" seam allowance \
for coverstiched edges
t:z.
3/8"

seam allowance
L Jfor coverstiched edges
318"

ASYMMETRICAL BODYSUIT WITH ELASTIC LEGS,

ARMS, AND NECKLINE Add seam aII owan ces as illustrated, %" for seams
. that will
To draft the asymmetrical bodysuit, the pattern must be be sewn to oth er Seams • and '12' for cover-stitched hems.
traced open, full, not on th e fold.

318"

1/4" seam allowance

for elastic edges

•
1/4" seam allowance

.
for elastic edges

reduce neckine
elastic by
i ll

...
2" total 318"

ill
318"

' 1/4" seam allowance

•.
1/4" seam allowance
for elastic edges for elastic edges

318"

Cut the elastic to the exact measurement of the armhole,

without any reductions.

Reduce the neckline elastic by 2" total all the way around,
....
•
1" smaller than the front and 1" smaller than the back.
Reduce the leg opening elastic by 2" total all the way •.
•
around, 1" smaller than the front leg and 1" smaller than
the back leg.

•..
....
Add '/.'' seam allowance for elastic.

Serge the elastic to the "wrong" side of the opening, flip

once, and then cover-set.

:
 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS AND ON
' E- AND TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS CHAPTER 13 409

3/8"

114" seam allowance 1/4" seam allowance

for elastic edges for elastiC edges

no reductton reduce neck1n~

for armhole elashc by
318 .. elastic 2" total 3/8"

reduce elasllc by 2" total

for elast1c leg opening 3/8"
/ '
1/4" seam allowance
for elastic edges

ASYMMETRICAL BODYSUIT WITH PICOT ELASTIC

ARMHOLE
Picot elastic is the same as regular elastic except that it
has a fine lacy edge on one side that helps red uce panty
lines.
Serge the elastic to the outside of the leg openings, flip
once, and then cover-stitch to expose the lace.
Cut the elastic to the exact measurement of the armhole,
without any reductions.
Reduce the neckline elastic by 2" total all the way around,
1" smaller than the front and 1" smaller than the back.
Reduce the leg opening elastic by 2" total all the way
around, 1" smaller than the front leg and 1" smaller than
the back leg.
Add 1/4' seam allowance for elastic.

318"

no seam allowance
for binding edges

3/8"

ASYMMETRICAL BODYSUIT WITH BINDING nstruction seam allowances to the

Do add the normaI co .
Cut the binding one-sixth smaller t h an the armhole. areas that will have bmd,ng.
Don't add any seam allowance to the arm hole or neckline
When applying binding.
 ..10 ~ HAPTER 13 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE - AND TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS

l i 1/6thsmnllcr

1/6th smnUer

318"
318"

ASYMMETRICAL BODYSUIT WITH BANDING

318"

v, 318"
318"

1/6th smallo~_ _ ]

Banding is another method of finishing the armhole and Cut the banding one-sixth smaller than the armhole.
neck edges. Add seam allowances to the armhole and neckline when
banding will be attached, as determined by the type of
fabric and serger used .

....
ASYMMETRICAL BODYSUIT WITH SHAPED BANDING
.........
......
The banding may be shaped for any design. Shape the banding as required.

.......
..--..
 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS
'AND ONe. AND TW
O-PIECE SWIMSUITS CHAPTER 13 411

Lining
CROTCH LINING Cut this lining in self.
Measure up 6". Serge the top edge unless you're working in nylon span-
Square in from the leg opening. dex or a fabric that will not fray or unravel, in which case
the edge should be left raw to reduce read-through.
Make the top edge of the lining curved so that it is less
Leave the top of the lining loose, attaching the lining only
likely to show a ridge on the right side of the garment.
at the sides and crotch.

Bikini Tops
ADDING A BUST DART TO THE TOP SLOPER
Use the one-way-stretch top sieper to create the bikini top
sieper. Because there is nothing stretching the bikini top,
it wi ll act almost like a woven fabric; in fact, these slopers
may be used with some woven fabrics.
You must create a dart in the bikini sieper because when
knit fabrics stretch, they tend to do so evenly, with even
tension; this means they will tend to flatten the bust shape.
The dart can be disguised or hidden later, but must be
included in the sieper.
The basic top slopers do not have any bust darts built in,
so you will need to modify them to create a bust dart in
FULL LINING order to draft the bikini top.

Cut a full lining in nude tricot lining.

 CUP DIFFERENCE CHART
You must first determine the cup size by selecting the measurements from this chart. ....
.(.

l>l
BUST
-- ()
u inches 30 '12 31 112 3 2 112 33'12 34 112 35 '12 37 J:
p 38'12 40 41 '12 43 112 l>
30 'I> 1 112 2 112 3'1> 4 '12 5 '12 7 45 '12
p 8 '12 10 11 '12 13 '1> "1l
31 -'1> '12 1 112 2 112 3 112 4 '12 15 112 -i
6 7 '1> 9 10 112 m
E
R

c
32
33
34
35
- 1 '12
-2 '12
- 3 '1•
- 4 '1•
-'12
- 1 112
- 2 112
- 3 '12
'12
-'12
- 1 '12
1 112
'I•
- '12
2 112
1 112
'12
3 112
2'12
1 112
5
4
3
6 112
5'12
4'1>
8
7
6
9'12
8'12
7'12
12 '12
11'12
10 '12
9'12
14 '12
13 112
12 '12
11 112
-"'
:0

OJ
- 2 11> - 1 '1> - '12 'I• 2 3'12 5 0
6 '12 8'12 10 112
H 36 112 - 36 '12 - 36'12 - 36 '1> - 36 112 - 3 6 '12 -36 '12 -36'1> -36 112 -36'12
c
- 36'12 - 36'12 - 36'12 -<
E 38 - 37 112 - 36'12 - 35 '12 - 34 112 - 33'12 -32 112 - 31 -29 112 (/)
-28 - 26 112 -24'12 c
s 39 '1> - 40 - 39 - 38 -37 - 36 - 35 - 33 '12 - 32 - 30 112 - 29 - 27
- 22'12
=i
T - 25
41 - 42 112 -41 112 - 40 112 - 39 '12 - 38'12 -37 112 - 36 -34 '1> - 33 Cfl
- 31 112 - 29'12 - 27'12
43 -45 '1> - 44 '1> - 43 '1> - 42'12 - 41 '12 -40 112 - 39 - 37 112 - 36 -34'12 - 32'12 - 30'12 ....
m
0
i!:0
c
(/)
CUP SIZES l>
z
Cup size is determined by the difference between the bust measurement and the upper bust measurement. c
This chart is demonstrated with different bust measurements. 0
z
m
Difference Up '12'' 1 112 2 '12 3 '12 4 '12 5'12 6 '12 7'12 8 '12
to to to to to to to to to to l>
1/ 2" z
1 '1• 2 114 3 114 4 114 5 114 6 114 7'!. 8 114 9 114 c
Cup size AA A B c D DD/ E DDD/ F G H I .....
:E
0
'
"1l
m
()
m
CUP AMOUNTS (/)

This chart shows the amount needed to increase at the side seam by slashing and spreading.
:E
i:(/)
Cup Size 8 10 12 14 16 Small Medium Large c
7 =i
B '/. % % % 1 'I• % 1e (/)

c % % 1 % 1% 314 1 1 '14
D 1 1 1le 1% 1 314 1% 1 '1e 1% 1 7/e
DOle 1% 1% 1% 2 2 '1• 1 112 1% 2 1/e
G
H

.....
I

~.
 BODYSUITS, LEOTARD
S , AND ONE
-AND TWo
- PIECE SW IM SUITS
CHAPTER 13 413

~
span I
TOP
BLOCK
I=
FRONT TOP
MED BLOCK
FRONT
(date)
MED
(date)

First, find the apex of the bust.

Draw a guideline
Draw a guideline parallel to the center that is half the the front half f t,hpara11 el to the center front but away from
, o e bust span amount.
span away from the center front. bust

.9!
~

j r, bust

span
guideline

TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
FRONT FRONT
MED
MED (date)
(date)

From the apex, draw a guideline that extends from the

Measure the bust level to wherever it lands on the guide-
center front to the side seam. This is the line that you will
line; this is your apex. slash and spread to add extra length for the bust.

Extra Extra
Extra Large Extra Large
Extra Medium Large
Small Small
Extra Small 7 112 7 7/s 8%
6 7/s 7 '1• 7 7/s 6%
Stable 6'12 6% 7'1• 7 '12
6'/2 6 3/• 7% 771• 6'1•
Moderate 6% 6 3/ • 7 7'1s 7 7/a
Stretchy 6% 6 1/2 6'1• 7'1•
7 112
6% 6% 67/s 7'1•
Super-stretch 6'1• 6'1• 6'/2 11 11 '/•
6 10 '/2 103/ •
Rib 5 7/s 10 '/•
Bust level 9'1s 10
 414 NO TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS
CHAPTER 13 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- A

It seems as 1f you could just draw 1n the bust dart as IS, but
there IS a slight problem that must be corrected.
ARMHOLE DART
CUP CORRECTIONS
Note how the fabric in the illustration creates ripples pull-
ing from the armhole. This happens with any large bust,
whether a dart is added or not, and must be corrected.
Place another small dart, this one in the armhole.
Note: This dart will be pivoted into the bust dart and will
not show.

Remove th1s amount as an armhole dart to correct the fit

noted prev1ously

Cup Size 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
B 0 0 0 0 0
c 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 I• '12 >;. 1
D 0 0
1 '1• 1 112 1% 2
'I> 1 1 '12 2 2'12 3
DD 0 '12 1 3'12 4
1'1> 2 2'12 3 3'12
DDD/F 0 'I> 1 1 112 4 4 112
2 2'12 3 3'12
G 0 'h 1 1 '12 4 4'12
2 2'12 3 3'12
H 0 'I> 1 1'12 4 4'12
2 2'12 3 3 112
I 0 '12 1 1 '12 4 4 112
2 2'12 3 3'12 4 4 112

Once you have determined the amount of the armhole

dart, square a guideline from the armhole to the apex. Slash and overla th8
the bust dart P . armhole dart as illustrated; note hoW
gets slightly larger, also.
 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS AND
, ONE- AND TWO - PIECE SWIMSUITS CHAPTER 13 415

Draw in the bust dart as illustrated.
The bust dart cannot be used as is To determine the bust radius, use the
and must be shortened; otherwise it chart below.
w ill go right to the apex.
From the original bust apex, draw in
Shorten the dart by 1" up to 1'12"; when the bust radius, using a compass.
pivoting the dart to another position
to bring the apex back to the original
point, remember to shorten the dart
again.

Extra Extra Extra Extra

Extra Small Small Small Medium Large Large Extra Large

Stable 2 1/s 2 '/• 2'1s 2 '/, 2% 2'/• 2 7/s

Moderate 2 '/s 2'/• 2'1s 2 112 2% 2'!. 2 7/s
Stretchy 2 2 1/s 2'/• 2 '1s 2 112 2% 2'!.
Super 1 7/s 2 2 1/s 2'/• 2 3/s 2'12 2%
Rib 1 '/• 1 7/s 1 7/s 2 2 1/s 2'/• 2%

. m the bust apex to the shoulder/neck inter-

Draw a I1ne 1ro
Slash and spread to move the dart to the hem area. section as illustrated.
Measure up the line 1".
 416 CHAPTER 13 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS AND ONE- AND TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS

Lone your ruler up woth the 1" pomt and swong ot unto! ot
touches. tangent to the curve of the bust radous.
Repeat for the other side.
lJ
/

Usong an L-square ruler, draw a lone
that IS square to the other guodeline
and touches the curve of the bust
radous
Repeat for the other side.
Trace out the cup, and separate. In order to use the cup with the dart,
you must shorten the dart lengths;
otherwise, the cup becomes too
pointy.

BIKINI WITH DART AND BINDING

This bikini top is finished with self-binding, using the cel-

larette machine. In order to use the cup with the dart, you m ust shOrten the
dart lengths; otherwise, the cup becomes too pointy.
 ElODYSUITS , LEOTARDS AND
' ONE- AND T
WO-PIECE SWIMSUITS CHAPTER 13 417

0 no seam allowances
for binding

No seam allowances are required for this style; %" finished

1/2"

binding doesn 't need any. ~he gap between the cups should be a minimu~ of 'li' for
reasts that are very close together, and a maximum of 1"
for breasts that are far apart.

BIKINI WITH EASE AND BINDING

This bikini converts the dart into ease Mark a notch 1" away from the dart Remove the dart and blend a curve.
under the bust. legs, one on each side. Label the pattern to indicate that
you must gather between the two
notches to a final measurement of 2".

BIKINI WITH A CHANNEL FOR A

Add '/.'' seam allowances to the
DRAWSTRING Fill in the dart by drawing a smooth- sides to sew to the lining and a '12"
This b'k'
1 · curved line along the bottom of the seam allowance to the lower edge
1n1 top is lined with a spaghetti
~t~ap inserted between the self and the draft. for a casing.
1010
g to create the tie at the top.

:~~bottom
1
of the bikini has a casing
a string inserted inside.
 418 TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS
CHAPTER 13 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- AND

BIKINI BOTTOMS AND PANTIES

You may expect that you can just cut off the leotard to create a panty
bottom, but remember, the length measurements were reduced to accom-
modate the lengthwise stretch of the fabric. Once the leotard IS cut, It Will
spring back and be lower down on the body.
You must create a separate panty sloper that does not have as much length-
WISe reduct1on.

~~
FOUR-WAY-STRETCH REDUCTIONS
Note that the crotch depth is multiplied x o.g5, a reduction of 5%, because

.-
the four-way-stretch reduction of 10% is too much, and a 0% reduction, as

;
in one-way-stretch, is too little and will cause the crotch to sag.

This draft IS for the bikini panty bottom, and should be used with four-way-
stretch fabrics.

..--
Extra
Extra Extra I iiii
Extra
Small Small Extra Extra
Multiply Small Medium Large Large Large
by 0 2 Iiiii
6 10 14
2 Waist
18 20
X 0.90 21 1/o

....
22 23 23 7/o
3 Hip X 0.90 31 32
24% 26 1/s 27 1/2
4 Crotch depth 32 7/s 33 3/.
X 0.95 9 9 1/s 34 % 36
9 1/4 37%
9% g 1/2 9% 9%

.......
.-.,
--
 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- AND
TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS CHAPTER 13 419

1 waist
I

~
5
--
~
~

! -r-

Draw intersecting lines, and measure Square a line at the crotch depth,

......
the waist amount and the crotch depth Divide the guideline into thirds.
mark wit h the hip measurement, and
amount. square a guideline up to the waist.

Extra Extra

........
Extra Extra
Extra Small Small Small Medium Large Large Extra Large

.......
Waist 21 1/a 22 23 23 7/a 24 3/4 26 1/a 27'12
Quarter of waist 5 '1• 5'12 5% 6 6'1• 6'12 6 7/a
Crotch depth 9 9 1/a 9'1• 9% 9'12 9% 9%
Hip 31 32 32 7/a 33% 34% 36 37%
Quarter of hip 7% 8 8'1• 8'12 8% 9 9%
Crotch depth 9 9 1/a 9'1• 9% 9 '12 9% 9%

....
Thirds 3 3 3 1/a 3 '/a 3 '/a 3'/• 3'/•
iliiriil

liiilili
li;;itl
i;;ll
1 waist 1 waist

I
,,
_l waist

fj;;ill I
I I I I _l _l
-~
I
- ,'
I

........
- I I I I I I I!+""

~
divide hip '
into 4 ' 11/2"

- -
+-

1111111 Draw in the hip c urve by p laci ng #4 of Div ide t he upper hip line into four
Mark a guideline 1'12'' from the center

~ the variform c urve at the waist , b le nd-

1
eq ua l sect ions .
front.

~
ng as Well as possible to the lower
rnark on the outseam.
 TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS
420 CHAPTER 13 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS , AND ONE- AND

waist
W31SI I

1 318' parallel

- ,
:'1,
•-+

' -/
'
-

Find the bias in the intersection and Draw guideline parallel to the side Measure up the guideline 'h" + 'h" + W.
measure down 1%". seam that lines up with the mark on
the horizontal guideline.

Draw in the front leg, using connection
points 1-2-3-4-5, with a smooth and
continuous line.
-.
THE BIKINI BACK
For higher, sexier front legs, use the Trace out the front draft and connect
higher points. the crotc h poi nt to the hip point with a
straight line.
Students and new designers often mis-
takenly raise the side seam s to create
a higher leg opening. This will cause
the back of the swimsuit to collapse
into the buttocks.

waist waist
waist

Find the midd le of the line and mea- Draw a smooth curve for each of the
sure out 1/2" + Y2" + 12".
1
marks, as illustrated. Label the lines as Small, Medium, and
Large.
 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS , AND ONE- AND TW 2•
0-PIECE SWIMSUITS CHAPTER 13 4 t

blend) ,
...
1/4"
bik.nl
bottom
sloper
M

.,.
..........-....
BLENDING AND TRUEING
Line up the crotch seams across from Place the front and back beside each
each other and blend the curve. Label the slopers as illustrated.
other and walk the side seams down
You will have to increase the size of from the waist.

....-.. the crotch by '!<'' to make the c urve

smooth enough for elastic.
Blend a smooth and continuous sexy
line .

.........
...... 1 112"
j_ _________
1112" 11/2"
_.l.__ _________ j. 1/4"
cut elastic 2"
smaller
1/4"

D~
,--------

,., ..-- ~ "'

.

...........
114. ..

4'"
.
'.
:
'
'-
3/8" 3/8"

....... BIKINI WITH LOWERED WAIST

This draft illustrates a lowered waist

bikini bottom .
Lower the waist by as much as your
design requires, illustrated here at
Add the necessary seam allowances .

...........
1'12''.

.......
...
~
~
 422 CHAPTER 13 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- AND T
Create a bikini bottom that ties on
the side by following these drafting
instructions:
BRAZILIAN HIGH-CUT SWIMSUIT
This swimsuit has a very high leg, with
a very low front and back.
Square a line from the new side seam,
the 1'12'' mark . Do not concern yourself
with the length yet; just make it long
enough to reach the front that you will
draw in next.
Measure down the front 3".
Measure down the back 4".
WO-PIECE SWIMSUITS
s·
· ------~
s·
D'
Lower the waist, and extend the side
seams 5" on all sides to create the tie
You can leave the ends squared or you
can blend them into curves.
extension.
-
3/4" 3/4" 1 1/2"
Measure in at the waist 3/4''.
Take your ruler, line it up at the waist,
and mark wherever 1'12'' lands on the
side seam.
Blend a smooth-curved waist.
Find the center of the back line and
Connect the front to the curved portion measure '12" + '12".
of the front leg opening.
Connect the back with a straight line.
 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- AND

j.... TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS CHA PTER 13 423

.,.,
--
...,
....
.,
.... Draw a curved back leg.
Trace the new bikini bottom .

..,.
-....-...
.........-..
......
STRING BIKINI

A bikini that ties at the side is easy to draft.

Create the Brazilian high-cut swimsuit bottom draft as
shown previously. Simply cut the pattern lower and finish
the waist edges with binding ties.

.......... 11/2"

'----- ---- --~,-

-,-
,._ - ---~- '- ,.

.......... THONG, G-STRING, AND T-BACKS

For the thong, T-back , or G-string, lower the waist 1 '12''. Draw a line parallel to the new waist, 1" lower.

............. 1/4"

......... PT
lllilllif.
:~::-,
' shape
....

...... 1/4"

~-~e ends of the sides, using the smallest wa1st.

. The thong has a Center strap that measures y,•
.
each s1de,
Shape the center back as required .
. total,
and uses 2 x y,· elastic on each Side
y,• for
 CHAPTER 13 BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- AND TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS

Test ~ou~ Knowledge of t he

Matenal m This Chapter
6. How much smaller than the leg opening
1. When should you use the leotard/bodysuit
._
----.......
sloper? should the binding be?
7. How much smaller than the leg opening
2. How should you true the sleeve to ensure
that it fits the armhole? should the banding be?
3. Should the sleeve fit exactly into the
armhole?
4. What is the difference between the front
s. How much should you take in the bodysuit
at the side seam when creating a sleeveless
style?
.-
9. How should you create a style with shirr-
and back of the sleeve?
5. How long should you cut the elastic for a ing on one side seam?

-.--..
.-
leg opening on a bodysuit?

-.......
~
.......
 ~--cc~HPA0PTC~~-----
PTER 14

Fitting and Corrections

About This Chapter

This chapter teaches how to improve the fit a nd style of sim-
ple garments, and how to turn an ordinary garment · t
'tt' . m oa
"designer" garment. F 1 mg IS part of the patternmaking pro-
cess, and a pat~ern cannot be completed until after the fitting
and all correctiOns have been done to the final patterns.

Fitting and Corrections

When doing the fitting on a customer, put the garment on
right side out. When doing the fitting on a dress-form, you
may put the garment on inside out, which makes it a little
easier to pin the seam allowances. However, a customer might
think you don't know what you're doing if you make them put
on garments inside out.
When the fitting is complete, remove the pinned garment
from the dress form, or model, and trace all of the corrections
to the sloper if it is a sloper fitting, or onto the pattern if it is a
pattern fitting. Knit garments must always be removed from
the dress-form in order to trace out the corrections, since the
fabric is stretched out when on the body and needs to relax for
you to get an accurate correction.
Label the corrections in a contrast marker and note the
fabrication. Many companies require all first corrections to ~e
done in red marker with second correction in blue, etc. This
way everybody in the company can tell where each garment is
m the fitting and patternmaking process, and whether a pat-
tern is ready for production.

425
426 CHAPTER 14 FITTING AND CORRECTIONS

Re-Shaping the Waist

The waist is the most common correction made
bust
to garments. Everybody wants a smaller waist,
and demand garments that fit correctly in this
area. However, do not make the garment too
wa1st
tight in this area or it becomes uncomfortable,
and the customer will begin to think she has
gained weight. Too tight garments wear out a
lot faster than loosely fit garments.
Pin out the excess fabric at the hip and re-
shape the pattern accordingly.
Do not make the hips too tight or the fabric
will strain and wear out prematurely.

-
f ill
Hip Fittings and
Corrections
The hip of pants and skirts often needs to be -..
iilll

iiilll

....
fitted and corrected. You must pin out the ex-
cess fabric and reshape the hip. Don't make the
pants too tight, because even though the fab-
ric_ will stretch ~o accommodate a larger body,
th1s causes stram on the fabric and causes it to
wear out quickly.

•
••
••
•
 FITl'ING
AND CORRECTIONS
CHAPTER 14 427
Re·Shaping The Legs
Ptn out equal amount on both sides of th 1
nd correct the pattern as indicated. e egs
11
Make sure to focus on the areas aro und the
knee. to ensure that they fit accurately.

Shoulder is Too Big

The shoulder seam should line up exactly with
the shoulder.
If the shoulder is too big, remove the excess
from the shoulder of the pattern.
If the shoulder is too small, add extra to the
shoulder of the pattern.
4:.'~ 'HAPTER 14 FITTING AND CORRECTIONS

1_L
wa1st
(--;.,. Shoulder is Too Small
If the shoulder is too tight. you will get horizon-
tal lines pulling across the upper chest area.
To correct shoulders that are too narrow,
extend the shoulder and armhole outwards in-
creasing the size.

t
)
I
~bd-

Crotch is Too High

•
If the model h as a longer waist, it may be nec-
essary to lower the crotch.
Lower the crotch as indicated and make
.
Iii

ii
corrections to the blocks.
..
Iii

II
••
knee •
I
I

ankle
•
I
I
I
•I
•
 FITTING
AND COR RECTIONS
CHAPTER 14 429
crotch is Too Shallow
·lt·tpe
He~ .. the crotch as indicated.
bust

Crotch is Too Low

If the model has a short waist, it may be neces-
sary to raise the crotch. Reshape as necessary.

ankle
'HAf'lER 14 FITTING AND CORRECTIONS

Thigh is Too Wide

Pin out excess fabr ic nnd r e move from patte rn
accordi n gly.
Keep both s ides even a nd equa l.

Reshaping the Sleeve

.
Iii
Iii
Since most dress-forms don't have any arms,
the sleeves must be fit on a live model. Iii
Pin out the excess fabric and correct the
pattern a nd blocks as illustrat ed. ••
••
••
I
I
I
I
••
•
•
 FITTING AND CORRECTIONS
CHAPTER 14 431

correcting the Ease

of a Sleeve
sleeve ease should be minimum •/," and
The_. Jii11 ,/;". Slash and spread to correct.
Jlla-"JU

Reshaping the Neckline

Reshape the neckline to ensure that it follows
the neck accurately.

ankle
 CHAPTER 14 FITTING AND CORRECTIONS

Collar is Too Big

The colla r s hould fit s nugly around the neck.
If t he colla r is too big, pin out the excess a mount a nd cor-
rectRemove
the pattern
ha lf.the a mount of the excess from each end of the
colla r patLern at the center back. . .
The neck edge will stretch to fit the ~ecklme, wh1le the
folded edge of the colla r wi ll fit snugly against the neck.
Because the neck of the customer I S w1der at t he base than
at the top, using the exact neckline measure me nt from the
draft will create a colla r that gapes at the top, and sta nds
away from the neck. You can leave the draft as is, or make a
slight correction to t he fit.
To correct this pinch out the extra a mount, measure it
and remove that a~1ount from the pattern as illustrated. '
318"
Or simply remove approximately '/." from each end of the
colla r pattern .
318 COLLAR
CUT
1
l foldhne
3/8"
The top of the collar is now sma ller and w ill fit snug to the
neckline.
The edge that attach es to the sweat er is also smaller and
3/8"
must be stretched to fit into the neckline of the sweater.
3/8" 3/8" 318" 3/8"
Add seam allowances and label the pa ttern as in Chap-
3/8" 3/8" ter 9.
The seam of the collar should line up with either the cen-
TURTLE NECK TURTlE NECK ter back or the neckline, or preferably the l eft shoulder seam
T-5HIRT 3/8" T.SHIRT
BACK
MEO
FRONT
MEO
(always the left), where it is less noticeable.
CUT I - -CUT1
on told on fold

3/8"

l 1
1· hem allowance
 FITTI NG AN
0 CORRECTIONS
CHAPTER 14 433

TUR11.E
NECK
TOP
FRONT
MED
CUT 1
on fold

Other Collar Options

If your fabric does not stretch enough for the
collar to pull on over the head, then you h ave
several options to correct the collar. Use which-
ever method your collar demands.
Use a matching rib fabric, so that the rib
fabric will stretch enough to fit over the head.
Use the same pattern piece, exactly as is,
but it may not be snug enough.
Or reduce the width of the pallern by 10
percent for a snug fit.

COLLAR
CUT1

TURTLE
TURTLE
NECK
NECK
WITH
WITH
ZIPPER
ZIPPER
FRONT
BACK MED
MED CUT1
CIJT1
an fold
an fold
ld be a total of 10" with 4"
The zipper sho~l and 6" inserted into the
Insert a zipper or other closure in the collar inserted into the co ar,
~ fu
at the neckline can be open ed to take fue front of the top.
gar
rnent on and off the body.
 ~4 l'HAI'T(R 14 FITTING AND CORRECTI ONS

TURTLE TURTLE
NECK NECK
TOP TOP
BACK FRONT
MED MED
CUT 1 CUT1

-.-.
on fold on fold

Enlarge the collar and ease it into the neck- Enlarge the width of the collar, a maximum

line for very small a mounts only to avoid caus-
ing the collar seam to pucker.
This will also depend on your fabric, as
some knits, especially shiny ones, will visually
exaggerate even the slightest amount of ease.
-•..
of '/i' on each side, for a maximum of 1" wider.
If you make the collar a ny wider, it may not
ease into the neckline without showing gathers
and puckers.

create a new collar to fit the neckline

•.
•• •
TURTLE
NECK
••
•
TOP
FRONT

•••
MED
CUT1
on fold

••
Widen the collar as much as necessary
however, having a shoulder seam of at least 1/2:,
to prevent the top from sliding off the shoulders

•
of the customer is recommended.
Note that in order to maintain a smooth
En~arge the neckline wider and the collar ~urve on the back neckline, it may be necessary
accordmgly; however the collar will sit slightl o lower the back neckline, but remember to
away from the neck. Y keep the center back neckline square.
Create a new collar to fit the new widened
neckline.
 FiTTiNG AND CORRECTiONS
CHA PTER 14 435

An extremely wide neckline can be created
to make the top very easy to get on a nd off, or
as a design feature.
Widen the collar as much as necessa ry,
however, having a shoulder sea m of at lC'asl 1 ; •
to prevent the top from sliding off the shouldC'rs
of the customer is recommended.
Note that, in order to maintain a smooth
curve on the back a nd the front nccklinC', it
may be necessary to lower the necklines, but
remember to keep the center back a nd CC'nter
front necklines square.
Create a new collar to fit the new widened
neckline.

Slightly Enlarging the Bust

·' bust is too la rge for the garment,
Sometimes the customer s ft tt ut the bust. Therefore, It
and stretch fabrics t~nd to a h::~ount of fabric in the bust
be necessar y to w crease t
may A"
area. front of the garment up to I • .
Increase the bus~ a rea of the be necessary to add a dart to
For large bust srzes, rt may
the sloper.

ankle
 FITTING AND CORRECTION S

st Dart to the Top

Adding a Bu
Sloper .
11 they try to do so e venly, w1th
E ven though knit fa brics strethc ' will try to flatten the bust
· 11 mean s t ey d even out t h e tens10n,
even tension, wI11c · use
shape. To build in a bust sh apde a nt h ave any bust darts built
· leper s o no
bust da rts. The basics d ·r them for larger bust s izes .
in so you will need to mo J y

Darts
. . . based on a 36" chest. .
This chart shows the difference m cup s1zes d calculate the differences.
You will n eed to measure your model's bust and upper c1lest an E t L
Extra Small Small Medium Large x ra arge
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

Bra 36 1/z 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45
Upper chest 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36
Difference Y2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Bust Dart Amount

This ch a r t illust rates how large your bust dart should be at the side
seams.
Cup Size 8
-..
.--....
10 12 14 16
8
c
D
3116
•;16
1
%
1 3/16
1 3/ 16
1
1%
•;16 13/16
1 3/16
1 3/4
1
1%
1%
-=
DO 1% 1 9/16 1% 1 15/16 2 3/16

..-
~
span
b n
The first step is to find the apex of the bust.
Draw a guideline parallel to the center that is half the bust
span away from the center front.
---
---
TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
FRONT FRONT
MED MED
(date) (date)

Stable
Moderate
Stretchy
Super-stretch
Rib
Extra
Extra Small
6%
6%
6%
6\4
Extra
Small
6%
6Y2
6Y2
6%
Small
6%
6%
6%
6%
Medium
7 1/a
7 1/a
7
Large
7 Y2
7%
7%
Extra
Large
7 1/a
7%
7 1/a
Extra
Extra Large
8%
6%
--
5 1/a 6 1/a 8 1/s
6 6Y., 7% 7%
6Y2 7%
6 1/a 7'A 71h
 FITTING AN 0 CORRECTIONS
CHAPTER 14 437

Extra Extra
ExtraSmall Small Small
~=====~9~~~·======~1~0====~~~====M
~·~n~____~21ed~o·~n~====~~====~L~a~
avsii~------------------------~10
:..----
~i~u~m~___:L10%
a~r~g~e----~E~xt~r;a __~~E~xt~r;a~~
11rg=e===E=x=
tr~11a~L~a~
% rg=e===

il"'f
::an
TOP TOP
BLOCK BLOCK
FRONT FRONT
MED MEO
(date) (date)

Measure the bust level to wherever it land From the apex draw "d .
tends from th ' a gm ehne that ex-
on the guideline. This is your apex. s Th. . e center front to the side seam
I S I S the line that you will slash ~nd
spread to add extra length for the bus.
t

Note how the fabric in the illustration ere-

At first ·t
the bust d 1 seems as if you could just draw in ales ripples pulling from the armhole. This
Problem thart.
t However, there 1s
. another s llght,
. happens with any large bust, whether a dart is
a must also be corrected. added or not, so you must place a small dart in
t,he armhole also. This dart will be pivoted into
t,he busL dart and will not show.
 438 CHAPTER 14 FITTING AND CORRECTIONS

Armhole Dart
16
C up Size 8 10 12 14

0 0
B 0 0 0 9/ 16
c 3
/16 s;,& >;, 'h
1 3/ 16
D % 9
/16 13/16 1
DD 9 13/16
1>;,. 1%
/16

Draw in the bust dart as

..
•
Once you have determined the
amount of the armhole dart,
square a guideline from the
Slash and overlap the arm-
hole dart as illustrated. Note
how the bust dart gets slightly
illustrated.
••
armhole to the apex. larger also.
..
'ii

Iii
I
,-''radiu~~ ..
-· Ci
I
I
c
•
The bust dart cannot be used as is; it must be To illust rate the bust radius, use the following '
shortened, other wise it will go right to the apex.
Shorten the dart by 1", up to 1'/2'. When
pivoting the da rt to another position, bring the
ch art.
'
apex back t o the original point and then shorten
the dart again.

Extra Extra
Extra Small Small Small Extra Extra
Medium large large Extra Large
Stable 2 1/s 2'/.o 2% 2Y2
2 1/s 2'/.o 2% 2~ 2 7/a
Moderate 2% 2Y2
Stretchy 2 2 1/s 2V.. 2% 2~ 2 7/a
2% 2%
Super 1'1s 2 2'/a 2 '/.o 2% 2~
Rib 1% 1'1s F/a 2% 21h 2%
2 2 1/a 2'A 2 '/t
 F I TTING AN
D CORRECTIONS
CHAPTER 14 439
ott1er Tricks and Corrections to
Make a Better Fitting Garment
\VheJl
most studentsf think of knit garments , they 1.n1 ·
1e1P,_ $10 garments rom h a department
· store, but thisag1ne
· •
n ys the case. Althoug kmt garments are 1·n . lsn t
sJ"'a .11 expens1ve a d
·Jy available, you can sti create a versatile a d _n
d1
rea ·gner garmen t bY re fi nmg · t h e fit, changing thn attractJVe
deSJ choosmg . qua J"t c b · .
1 y 1a ncs, a 1termg the neck!"
e amount .
of
ease, ., fi t 1ne, s11ap1ng
1.t to Jlatter d1f1erent
. gure ypes, and adding custom deta1ls .
·s section
11 . w1l1 s11ow you some subtle pattern-mak·
. mg . ·
tncks
Tl
and techmques to . create
. a more. fiattenng
. designer-pnced
.
~'ent The pnnc1p1e examp1e m th1s section c
gar•" · . an be used
for anY stretch proJect.

special Fabrics For Knit Garments

Search for fine quality fabrics with unusual or special £ _
tures. It's also possible ~o use knit fabrics not always thou;~t
of as knit garment fabncs, such as stretch velour, panne vel-
vet, wool jersey, cashmere, and fleece. For fall garments use
slightly heavier knits, like wool jersey, velour, sweater knits,
or thermal cottons. It's not a lways necessa ry to find matching
or coordinated rib knits-quality garments can be made us-
ing self-fabrics:

• Bound necklines • Bound V-necks

• Mock necks • Self-facing
• Turtlenecks • Hoods

Fit Corrections
If possible, measure a favorite garment, noting the width,
amount of ease, length, and any other key measurements. By
comparing this garment with your slopers, it's easy to judge
and correct any changes. Creating the perfect garment takes
a little time and patience, but is well worth the extra effort.

Ease
In order to make the new garment fit like the original, you
must calculate and allow for the same amount of ease. Calcu-
late the ease intended for the garment style by measuring the
pattern from side seam to side seam across the front a nd back
at. the bust and hip and then compare the total measurem~~t
Withyour persona l' measurements. For examp1e, 1'f the ongl·
na! ga rment measures 34" around, an d 1'f your bust measure-
ment i 3 , h ·g·nal gannent
s 2 , then you can conclude that t e on 1 . d
has 2" of ease. So, if your sloper measures 33 , , you w1!1hnee tou
add 1" 0 f ease to create the same fit as the ongma
· · 1 T en yo
· ld
must decide if that a mount of ease should be in the shou er
 440 CHAPTER 14 FITTING AND CORRECTIONS

re the s houlder s of the

r ea M eas U h
a rea or the undera rm a · to th e sloper. If the s oulder
orig ina l garme nt, an d compa re
th en a ll of th e eas e must b e 1n
·
measu1·ements a re the sa me_. . w ill div ide the a m ount of
des1g ne1
the unde•·m·m . Often a h lde r a nd the u nde r ar m , but oc-
ease equa lly bet ween the sd ou t o only t h e sh oulde r a r ea, or
casiona lly may n eed to ad ease
only to t he unde rarm a re a.

CF
CB CF CB

Body Ease Shoulder Ease

Slash and spread at the underarm to add more
ease around the body. Remember to correct
your sleeve so that it also fits into the new arm-
hole. Since the ease is placed at the sides of the
body, it will not change the fit of the shoulder
area or the neck area.
Slash and spread at the underarm to add more
ease at the shoulder. Since the ease is placed at
the shoulder area, it will not cha nge the silhou-
ette of the garment.

114"
............ 114"

CB CF
CF

......._.
1/4"

Back Shoulder Ease

Determine your best shoulder width by measuring f:
. garments and adjusting the pattern.
Ite avor- Or:
For older or larger and stoop-shouldered bodies 'II . Slash and spread to create t>ase
get a better fit across the shoulders if the back-sh ~~ ~n the hack shoulder seam without
seam is. '/<" longer than the front. The extra '1." of th~ ba~~ me ·
b reasmg the overall size of the
seam Will be eased onto the front seam when sergin t th ody.
front shoulder, and will be held in place with twill t g 0 e
Slash and spread to create '1." ease in the back sh~~~der.
 FITTING A
NO CORRECTION S
CHAPTER 14 441
blend

gather to front
CB CF
Shoulder
~ ~~~ measurement
CB
CF

Draw a straight line, from neck point to

armhole point, to correct the new shoulder. cateLgaabtehl the shoulder with dash lines to indi-
enng.

Shoulder Placement
Balance the front a nd back armhole depths. Then check your
slopers. If the front and back armhole depths are exactly the
same, you may want to rebalance the armhole by adding ex-
tra to the back, and trimming from the front a nd moving the CB CF
shoulder seam line forward as illustrated. This correction will
prevent garments with lots of ease from falling backward off
of the shoulders.
Remove '//' to 1", or even as much as 2", from the front
shoulder.
Add that amount to the back shoulder.

Correcting the Neckline

It may be a good idea to raise the back neck, especially for '-··: \114"
stoop-shouldered and older customers. Raise the back by as CF
much as '/z'' and lower the front by the same amount, so t~e CB
neck circumference or neck measurement, doesn't change-It
is just redistributed.
Raise the back neck for a more flattering fit, and for
stooped shoulders.
the front neck as illustrated, so the overall ne~kb-
rmeLower . . l redistn. .
measurement does not change but IS s1mp Y
uted. Work in small increments to find the most flattenng
neck width for your face and body.
 4~ CHAPTER 14 FITTING AND CORRECTIONS

Define a Flattering Neckline

There are many optwns. . a If -vour
for neck- "'-h apm.,. customer's
t f a Y-neck.
face is verv round . you may prefer the contras o
k · ht be a good
· vou have
or 1f - an angu 1ar "tace. a round nee mJg h the dress
. - k
chmce. If vou want a \'-nee · mar k the dept
d on t to a v as
form as )o,~- vou wish the neckline to be. an conYer
shown in th~ next illustration.

'~\
.. j 2'
CB CB .... j 3' CB -~

CF CF 6'

CF

•
••
This is a !'lightly lowered
v-neck.
This is a more lowered
v-neck.
Shape a v-neck to soften
the straight line by sh aping
..
(ill
the line in by '!.''.
iii
tl
Test Your Knowledge of the
M aterial in This Chapter •
II
1. Should you place the garment on inside out
when doing a fitting? 6. What can you do if th e fabric does not
stretch enough for t h e collar to pull on
•Ill
2. Can you measure the corrections while on
the model to transfer the corrections to t he
patterns?
over the head?
7. How can you slightly increase t h e bust
a rea?
•
II
3. What happens if you make a garment too
tight?
4. How can you fit the sleeves of a garment?
8. How can you correct the pattern for older
or larger a nd stoop shoulder ed bodies?
•II
5. What should you do if the collar is too big?
••
IIi

.
till

Ill
 Appendix: Costing Sh
eets
About This Appendix
This appendix will introduce the reader to th . .
osting and how to fill out and complete a coste pnlnclples of
c b h h . mg s 1eet for a
garment. Remem er t at t e most Important pa t 0 f
Jll ent is t h e pnce ag; WI out 1t, the garment 1·sr
· t "th · a gar -
thl
. . t . t. wor ess
There JS no pom.lllnl cr ea In!~ a garment if it is not for sale.
This appendix WI a so exp am pattern cards • u1e1·ruses and·
how to fill them out correctly. •

.......
Total Cost and Key Factor Pricing
Total cost pricing works well if the customer would pay what-
ever you charge for the garment; while this is ideal, it is not
very often the case. Competition and the marketplace demand

.......
~
~
that you sell your garment for a lower price than is calculated
by total cost pricing. In this case, use the key factor pricing-
subtract the cost of goods from the actual selling price and
divide by labor hours. This will result in a "Key" number. Un-

...............
derstand that it may appear better to sell the garment at the
highest possible price, but in fact, it is not. For example, you
might sell one skirt for $10.00, or you can sell 10 skirts for
$7.00. If it costs you $5.00 to make the skirts, then you will
have made $5.00 profit on the single skirt and $20.00 profit on

....... the 10 skirts. Key factor pricing helps you determine whether
a style is worth including in your line or if it is profitable .

.................
Costing Sheets
The following explains how to fill out a costing sheet. Note
that the costing sheet may differ for the company you eventu-
ally work for. f
Complete the following informatwn. to ob tam
· the "Cost o
Goods."

......
Name: Include the name of the person who filled out the cost
~ sheet.

.......
Style #: Every style should have a number 1"dent"1f Ying it from
~ other garments in the collection.
~

....
~
443
·H-1 .\I'I'I!NOIX: COSTI NG SHEETS

" ld l"st the sizes thai the garment wil l

Size Range: .ou s11ou 1
eventually be graded to.
Description: Wt·ite a short descripti?n of ~he garment; for
example, a flee ce skirt with elastlc casmg~ a smglc back
patch pocket, a nd side seam slits. Tlus JS tmportant m case
someone outside the company uses any of your patterns
and won't undet·stand your numbering system.
Fabric: List the name of the fabric that will be used to create
this garment. For example, fleece, 12 oz interlock, etc.
Supplier: List where you purchased the fabric used to sa~ple
the garment. Later, if you find a cheaper or better verswn
of the sa me fabric for production, then you can update the
pattern card.
Content: List the fiber content, including the blends of fabric
used for the ga rment. Remember that by law you must
include this information on the label of every garment.
Care: List any laundry or dry cleaning instruction required
for this garment. New designers often believe that they
can simply label the garments "Dry Clean Only"; however,
there are many stores that refuse to buy "Dry Clean Only"
garments, because many customers r efuse to buy those
garments.
Self: List the total yardage needed to make a single garment .
Next, list the price and multiply to find the total cost of
--....
...
-:
self.
Contrast: Contrast is any secondary color or fabric required
to make the garment.
Lining: List any linings needed.
Fusing: List any fusing needed.
Zipper: Lis~ the length of the zipper, the size of the teeth , and ~
whether 1t 1s separating or closed.
Sh/pads: List any shoulder pads required.
Ot~er: L!st any other notions needed to creat e the garment
:•
mclu_dmg elastic,_ buttons, and buttonholes if sent out. D;
~ot 1lst th~e_a~, sm ce t~at will be accounted for in the over-
t~a cdo~ts, lt l S nearly Impossible to calculate how much
rea l S used for each garment.
Total: Add. all, of the m at enals
·
=
•..
•
together to get the "Cost of
M a t ena1s.
Cutting· List the c t f .
try ~any garm~st o cuttmg; remember that, in the indus-
of~ single garme:ts;~l~ ~ut hund~eds at a time, so the cost
who is cutting h d d e a lot higher than for someone
un re s at a time. If you are working for a
 . APPEND I X:
445
. r)!<' nanufacturer, s1mply taketh COSTING SHEETs
.1• ·:td "rret1 a fcosttt'estimate.
·
Oftentimese garment to the cutt
, contract . er
the1 cost o cu mg m t11e estimate . , so 1.t may not
ors Include
I
be necessary t o recor d th 1s cost. It is alwa a ways
to ]lave a thorough record of the lab ys a good idea
d 't 'll or costs wh h '
a contractor an 1 w1 also help you man en 1ring
making duplicate samples. age time when
sewing: List the time it takes to sew a co 1
Remember that you 'd will sew a lot slow:Pthete ~arment.
r an m m t
factories, so as a gm e, charge the garment $l O/h1.os
estimate. for an
Finishing: List an~ screen printing, embellishment
tion, .button sewmg, or other finishes that tl'le garment
' decora-
reqmres.
pressing: List the time
c it takes to . give the garment a fi nal
press. Some manutacturers w1ll send out the pressmg · so it
is important to k now t h e costs.
Total: Add all of the construction costs together to get the
"Total Cost of Labor."
Subtotal: Add the "Total Cost of Material" and the "Total
Cost of Labor" together for the subtotal.
Overhead: Overhead is any other cost s required to create
the garment: thread, twill t ape, electricity, rent, etc. To
find an accurate "Overhead Bu rden ," you need to add up
all of the expenses your company will incur over the next
year, and divide th em by th e total labor hours the opera-
tors have available. You will end up charging an amount
to each garment based on the time it takes to construct . So
if the overhead burden is $1/hr and the garment takes two
hours, you will add $2/garment.
Faulting: Faulting is u sed to account and allow for any
damaged goods and processes. For example, if your fabric
arrives with a large hole in the center, or a cone of~hread
arrives tan gled up, then it should be accounted for m the
cost of the garment. The industry standard may be any-
where from 2%-3% of the subtotal.
Total Cost : To find the total costs, add the cost of materials,
cost of labor overhead and faulting.
, ' . lt'1 l the total cost
Wholesale:
. To find the wholesale pnce, mu 1 . lP byY 2'/2 Th'l S 1·s
times 2. Some manufa cturer s m ay mu tip Y ·
the price at which you will sell the garment to stores.
Ret · · 1 th total cost times
ml: To find the r et ail price, n:ultip Y 1 e This is the price
two. Some
. r et ailer s m ay multiply
ld by 2 Vz.customers.
t 0 the
at wh1ch the garment will be so
 446 Af'PEN OIX; COS TIN G SHEETS

TOTAL"C~O~sllT~PRR~IC~I~N~G'==================is~ty~te~#==~-------------------------------
Name
s,ze
Fabnc
~ Descnptoon
Supplier
Content Care
Self Yards @ $
Contrast Yards 0 $
un.ng Yards 0 $
Fusmg Yards @ $
Zipper Inches @ $
Sh/pads Pair @ $
@ $
~d~~'cost of Materrals
Cuttrng Hours @10.00/hr
Sewmg Hours @10.00/hr
FtniShing Hours @10.00/hr
Pressmg Hours @10.00/hr
Cost of labor

Subtotal Total labor+ total materials . $

Overhead Overhead burden per construction $
hour ($1.00 per hour of labor)
Fault1ng 3% ol subtotal $

Total cost
Wholesale
Subtotal + overhead + faulting $
Retail
2 x total cost $
2 x wholesale $

KEY FACTOR PRICING

Name
Size St yle #
Fabric Description
Content Supplier
Self Care
Contrast Yards @
Yards @
$ $
Ltnmg $ $
Fusrng Yards @
Zopper Yards $
@
Inches $ $
Sh/pads @
Other Pair $ $
@
Total $ $
@
Cost of Materrals $ $
$
Cutt~ng $
Sewtng Hours
F•n•shmg Hours @10.00/ hr
Pressrng H ours @10.00/ hr $
Total Hours @10.00/ hr $
Cost of Labor @10.00/ hr $
Market Prrce
$
Profit $
Los t the pnce that garment m ust stay at to remain competitive.
Key Factor Subtract the cost of labor lrom the market price.
Divide the profit by the total labor hours.
 APPENDIX:
COSTIN
G SHEETS 447
pattern Card
·\ ..,,.,ttcrn
,... . card'' or "pattern must" 1·
ll<' cut Jn order to make a gar ment aIsts d a ll the Pieces
. tl
r,·erV · pattern. It helps the cutter, who n should be Includ. 1at must
[!!nguage as you,. understand wh·Ich p· may not s Peak tl ed with
sists the . productiOn
k manag·er bY ensur· Ieces to cut out It 1e1 same
supphes to ma e up the garments. I mag· m g that
· the re ·are a so as-
100 garment sand there were n ot enoughm e· If your rtactory enough

w~:ld~'ust ~~t~ c~m­

pJete them-aII the operators w ld . Zippers in t cut out
to do till the zippers arrived. sit around to
a style that you already have a ll the supphes for? to fi rstnothmg
t tt b.e better cut out

PATTERN CARD
Style# Date
oescnption
Season Sizes
Fabnc Content
care

FRONT VIEW BACK VIEW

Piece# Garment p1ece Self Contrast Trim/elastic Fuse
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
Spec Sheet
Name
Date
Style#
Description Med
Sizes
Season Content
Fabric
Care

Irate the measure~ a different stretch ratio and each garment must be drafted by ut11izmg the stretch ratiO accord•ngly. The charts below ollus·
Use the measurements
ents needed to draft slopers and eventually patterns for each fabnc.
exactly as recorded
Stable knits 5 inches stretches to 6 114" 18% to 25% stretch Reduce by O% Multiply your across
Reduce by 2% measurements by .98
1 26% to 50% stretch Multiply your across
Moderate knits 5 inches stretches to 7 12'' Reduce by3% measurements by .97
51% to 75% stretch Multiply your across
Stretchy knits 5 inches stretches to a%" Reduce bY 5% measurements by .95
76% to 1OO% stretch Multiply your across
Super stretch 5 inches stretches to 10" Reduce by tO% measurements by .90
Over 1OO% stretch Multiply your
R1b 5 inches stretches over 10" Reduce bY 5% measurements by .90
across In both doractlons
tOO% stretch
four-way·stretch 5 Inches stretches to tO" In both directions Reduce bY tO%
in both directions lengthwise

--
f\ny fatmc th at stretches less than 18% should be treated as woven stretch.
 448 APPEND I X: COSTING SH EETS

MISSES STABLE KNIT REDUCTIONS

Zero percent smaller in crossw1se d~rect•on w1 thout any reductjons m le~gth~•~e t':~~on.
Use these measurements when draftmg slopers for fabncs that s tretch rom 0 ·
N ote: All fracllons are rounded off to the nearest 'lath for ease o f draft1ng.

Extra Extra
Multiply Your Across Extra Extra Extra Extra
Measurements By Small Small Small Medium L a rg e Large Large
1 Bust 30 11.! 31 'n 33 112 35 112 38 112 41 1/7
2
1 for stable knits 45 112
Wa1st 1 for stable kn1ts 22 112 1
25 11.! 27 112 30 112 33 112
3 Hip
23 12 37 112
1 for stable knits 33 11.! 1
34 12 36 12
1 1
38 12 41 12
1
44 /2 1
48 112
4 Crotch depth g 7;a
No reduction 10 10 1/4 1
10 12 10'1. 11 11 1; ..
5 Wa•st to knee No reduction 20 11s 23 23 1/4 23 121
23 314 24 2 4 1/4
6 Waist to ankle 38 1/4
7
No reduction 38 112 39 39 112 40 40 112 41
Ankle 7 5/a 7 3/4 a31/4 8 112
8 Knee
1 for stable knits 8 8 3/4 9
1 for stable kn1ts 13 1/s 13% 13 718 14 /8 14 71s 15% 15 7/e
9 Front crotch
2 3/8 2 5/8
1 1
10 Back crotch
1 for stable knits 2 2 /a 2 /4 2 314 3
1 for stable knits 2 3/4 7
2 /a 3 3 1/4 3 112 3 3/4 4
11 Crotch angle 1 for stable kmts
12 1 1 1 1/a 1 1/4 1 1/4 1% 1 12
1
Nape to waist No reduction
13 15 % 15 % 16 118 16% 17 118 17% 18 118
Back neck No reduction 2 318 2 318 1
2 12 2 112 2 112 2%
14 Back neck rise 1 for stable knits 314 314 2'1.
15 Shoulder length
'Is 'Is 'Is 'Is 'Is
No reductron 5 1
5 112
16 Across back
5 /a 6 6 112 7 7 112
1 for stable knits 6 718 7 7 1/4 1
73/4
17 Sleeve length No reduction 22%
7 12 8 8 31s
23 314
22'1. 1
18 Shoulder p1tch 23 23 14 23 112 24
19 Bicep
1 for stable knit s 1% 1 318 1 112 1 112 1 12
1
1% 1%
20
1 for stable knits 10 10 318 11 'Is 11 718 12% 13 31e
Wnst 1 for stable knits 5 11s 5 112 14 11e
6 1/4 7 314

.....
21 Neck 7 8 11.! g';..
1 for stable knits 14 318 14 112 14'1. 15 15 114
22 Bust span 1 for stable knits 6 112 7 15 112 15 314
6% 6 1• 7 112
23 Bust level No reduction 7
9 1•
7 7 71• 8 318
10 10 114 10 112 10 314 11 11 1/4

MISSES MODERATE REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller in c rosswise direction wi thout any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%.
Mulliply
lize your across
the seam measurements
and prevent by .98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stab1-
1t from stretching.

Extra
Multiply Your Across Extra Extra
Extra
Measurements By Small Extra Extra
Small Small Medium Large L arge L arge
0 2 6
1 Bust 10 14 18
X .98 7 22
2 Wa1st 30 1• 31 718 33 314 36 114
3 Hip
X .98 23 24 39 114 42 % 44 5/s
26
4 X .98 33 314 34 314
28% 31% 34 314 36 31•
Crotch deplh
No reduction 36 314 39 114 42 118
5 10 10 118 45 % 47 1h
Waist to knee
No reduction 10 318 10% 10 11o
6 Wa1st lo ankle 23 23 118 23 31s 11 11s 11 11•
7 Ankle
No reduction 38 112 38 %
23% 23 718 24 118 24 11•
X .98 39 114 39 314 40 114
8 Knee 7% 7"1. 8 40 314 41
9 X .98 13 118 8 114 8 112 a%
Front crotch
X .98 13% 13 718 14 31s 8 718
10 Back crotch 2 118 2 118 14 71o 15 31s 15 4te
X .98 7 2 114 2 112
11 Crotch angle 2 1• 7
2 1• 3
2% 2 7/s 3
12 X .98 1 3 114 3 112
Nape to waist 1 1 11s 3% 4
13 No reduction 15 % 1 114 1%
Back neck 15 718 16 31s 1% 1 'h
No reduction 16 718
14 Back neck rise 2% 2% 2 112
17 % 17 7/s 18 1/s
15 Shoulder length
X .98 314 314 2 112 2'1s
No reduction ·'Ia 2% 2%
16 Across back 5 118 'Ia 'Is
X .98 5 114 5% 'Is '>a
17 Sleeve length 7 6 114 6 314
7 7 113 7 11• 7 112
18 Shoulder pilch
No reduction
22 314 22 71s 7% 7 11a
19 Bicep X .98 23 11s 23%
8 a%
X .98
1% 1% 1
1 12
23% 23 118 24
20 Wrist 10 11s 1 112 1 5;a
X .98 10 112 11 114
1'h 1 51!
21 Neck 5% 5 314
12 12 31• 13 1.-'.1 7
22 Bust span X .98 14 118 6 112 7 114 13 ·•
14 114 14 112
8 8 3 /4 9
23 Bust level X .98 6% 14 314
153/a
1 15
Noreduclion 6 12 6'1. 15 1/c
9% 7 11s 7'n
10 10 11s 10% 10%
8 a' ..
11 11
 450 Af'f"ENDIX: COSTING SHEETS

MISSES RIB REDUCTIONS lengthw se d"ect1on

1 1
Ten percent smaller'" crosswise d!fectro~ Wltho~~ra;:b~~c~u~a~:~r~tch 100% and over ment Since the final garment Will have twill tape to
Use these measurements when draftmg sop~~ aller except for the shoulder measure ,
Mulllply your across measurements by 90, 1 sm ' Extra
stabiliZe the seam and prevent It from stretchmg Extra Extra

Multiply Your Across

~=:~:
Small
Ex tra
Small Sma ll Medium
L arge
14
Large
18
Large
20
Measurements By
0 2 6 10

29 1/4 33 11• 36 39 'Ia 41

1 Bust X .90 28 31s 31
21 11s 22 23'1a 26 'Is 28% 32 33 31•
2 Wa1st X .90 3 38 3/4 41 7/a 43%
3 H1p X .90 31 32 33 1• 36 1
4 Crotch depth No reduction 10 10 'Ia 10 31a 10% 10 7/s 11 1a 11 11•
7
5 Wa1st to knee No reduction 23 23 11s 23 318 23% 23 1a 24 'Ia 24 11•
6 Waist to ankle No reductron 38 112 38 31• 39 1/4 39'1. 40 1/4 40 31• 41
7 Ankle .90
X 7 7 7 31s 7 112 7 3/4 8 8
8 Knee X .90 12 12 11• 12 314 13 'Ia 13 % 14 14 'I•
9 Front crotch X .90 2 2 2 11s 2'1• 2% 2% 2'1.
10 Back crotch X .90 2% 2% 2 718 3 3 ';, 3 112 3%
1 1
11 Crotch angle X .90 1 1 1 1 1/a 1 /• 1 /• 1%
12 Nape to wa1st No reduct1on 15% 15 718 16 318 16 71• 17% 17 7/a 18 11a
1 1
2 318
13 1
Back neck No reduction 2% 2 12 2 12 2 12 2% 2%
7

..•.
14 7 7
Back neck nse X .90 31• 314 'Is /a 'Is /a /a
15 Shoulder length No reduct1on 5 11s 5 11• 5'1. 1
6 /4 6 3/4 7 1/• 7 112
16 Across back X .90 7 7 7 31s 7% 7 7/a 8 8 31a
17 Sleeve length No reduct1on 22 31• 22 71a 23 118 23 3/a 23% 23 7/a 24
18 Shoulder p1tch X .90 1 1/4 1
1 318 1 112
19
1 /4 1% 1% 1 11z
Brcep 9318 9% 3
20
X .90 10 1s 11 11'1. 12% 12 3/4
Wnst X .90 5 1
5 14 6 6% 3
21
7% 8 8 1a
Neck .90 13 11a 13 31a
X 13 13 112 13 3/4 14 14 11a
22 Bust span .90 1
23
X 6 6 6 1• 6 112 6 7/a 1
7 1• 7 112
~
Bust level No reduction 9 9 'Is 9 31a 9% 9 3/4 10 10 11a

~
Note
MISSES FOUR-WAY-STRETCH REDUCTIONS
Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions.
Multiply your measurements by .90, 10% smaller, in both directions except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill
tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
that lour-way-stretch has memory, and will return to the original shape and twill tape is not necessary to stabilize
.•
iii

••
the shoulders.

Extra
Multiply Your Across Extra E xtra
Extra

••
Measurements By Small Extra Extra
Small Small Medium Large La rge L arg e
0 2 6
1 Bust 10 14 18
X .90 20
2 Waist 28 3/e 29 1/4 30 1/a

••
X .90 21 1/a 31 32 1
3 Hip 22 23 33 /• 34 51a
X .90 31 23 7/a 24 3/4 1
4 Crotch depth
X .90 32 32 7/e 33 3/4
26 /a 27 112
5 Waist to knee 9 1
9 1a 34 % 36 37 318
X .90 9';, 93/a
6 Waist to ankle 20 3/ , 20 7/e 9 112 9% 95/8
X .90 22 22 1/4 22 3/e 22 112

••
7 Ankle 34% 34 7/e 22 5Je
8 Knee X .90
7
37 37 1/ 4 37 112
X .90 7 7 141 37'/. 38
9 Front crotch
X .90
12 12 1/4 12 112
7% 7% 7 112 7 518
10 Back crotch 2 12'1. 13 1
X .90 7 2 2 2 1/a
13 /a 13 3 /a
11 Crotch angle 2 /a 2 1/ a

•
1
X .90 3 3 3 1/a
2 /4 23 a
12 Nape to waist
X .90
1 1 1 3 1/ 4 3 \·~ 3 17
13 Back neck 1
No reduction
14 14 1/4 15 3/e 1 1''a 1' '8
14 Back neck rise 2 3/e 2 3/e
15 1/z 15'1.
15 Shoulder length No reduction 3;, 2 112 2 112
16 16 1 •
No reduction 1
3;,
'Ia 7 2 112 1
2 12 2 17
16 Across back
17 Sleeve length No reduction
5 /e s';, 5 112
/a
5 3;,
1
/a 'Ia '·'a
7 6
18 Shoulder pitch No reduction
22 3/4
7
7 72;. 7% 6 11-4 6'.-2
19 Bicep No reduction 3 22 /a 23 1 7 4 ia 7'te 7 31.
1 /a 1 1/z 23 /a 23'/•
20 Wnst X .90
93/a
1
1 12 1
1 12
23 318 23 112
21 Neck X .90 9% 10 1 7
1
1 17 1.'8
5 s% 10 3/a 10 3/c
22 Bust span No reduction
14 /z
1 s% 6 11 11 3/a
23 Bust level X .90 14% 3
14 ;. 6 ';• 6•~e
6 14 7/a 7
X .90 6 15 15 2/a
1 15
9 1 6 /a 6 1/c
9 /a 63/e
93/4
9'/a 6 112 631•
10 10 10 1/c
 APPENDIX :
COSTiNG SHEETS
451
OR SIZ~STABLE KNIT REDUCTIONS
JUNI
t smaller 1n c rossw1se d•rection wi thout any reductions · 1
-f('O percen eosurements when draft1ng s lopers for fabncs that stre't" he~gthw1se d•rection.
Use tnese nl

..... --
c rom 0% to 25% and ex
E xtr a acuy as recorded Without an
Multiply Your Across Extra Extr a Y reductions.
Measurements By Small Small
Small Extra
Medium Extra Extra
0 2
l arge Large
6 Large
t
2
Bust
warst
X1
X1
X1
32
25
32
25
34
27
10
36 39
14 18
42 20 =
....
35 35 29 43 1; ,
3 HiP No reduc tion 37 32 35
4 crotch depth 10 114 10 114 39 42 36 112
No reduction 22 1a7 10 112 t0 314 45 46 112
5
Waist to knee 22 71a 23 11a 11 ,, 1/4
wa1st to ankle No reduction 38 11• 23 3/a 11 3/e
3a 31•

=
3a 'l• 23%

..-
6 X1 7 71a 39 114 23 7/a
7 Ankle 7 71a a% 7 39 314 40 1/ot
24
Knee X1 13% 13 % a 1a 9 3/e 40 112
B X1 14 1/e 9 7/e to ';,
Front crotch 2 1/4 t4% 15 11e
9 X1 3
2 '1• 2 3/a 2 112 15';, 15 7/e
tO Back crotch 3 2% 2 7/e
Crotch angle X1 1 3 3 114 3 112 2 7/e
tt 1 1
1 /e 3 3/4 3 7/e
Nape to wa•st No reduction 15 31a 15 3/a 1 114 1 3/e 1 3/e
t2 15 7/a 4
2 3/a
No reduction 16% 1 /e
t3 Back neck 2% 16 7/a t7 '1a 17 s/e
X1 314 2% 2 '1. 7
sack neck nse 3;, 7 2 /e 3 112

=
t4 /a 1 0
Shoulder length No reduction 4 71a 4 71a 1 1
1 /8
t5 X1 7 1/4
5 5 3/a 5'1a 0
t6 Across back 7 ';, 7% 5 7/8 6
t7 Sleeve length No reduction 23 31a 23 3/a 23%
8 a% a% a';,
23 7/a
tB Shoulder pitch X1 1 3/a 1 3/a ! 'Ia
24 1/a 24 3/a 24 1h

=
1 ';,
t9 Bicep X1 10 3/4 10 3/ 4 1
11 12
1 ';, 1 5/a t 'la
12 114 13 13 3/4
Wnst X1 5 7/a 5 7/a 6 1/a 14 1/8
20
X1 6 3/a 6 '1a 6 7/a
2t Neck 14 % 14 % 15 1/4 7
15 7/a 16 112
22 Bust span X1 6% 6% 6 7/a
t7 17'1.
9 7/a
7 7 3/a ?'Ia 73
No red~ction 9 7/a 10 31a
23 Bust level /4
10 7/a 11 3/a

~
7
11 /a 12 1/a

JUNIOR SIZE MODERATE REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50% .
Multiply your across measurements by .98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-
hze the seam and prevent it from stretching.

Extra Extra
Multiply Your Across Extra Extra Extra Extra
Measurements By Small Small Small Medium Large Large Large

2 6 10 14 18 20
0
Bust 32 3/s 34 1/• 35 1/• 36 3/• 38 219
X .98 31 'Ia 33%
29 7/a
Waist 25 112
1
27 '19 283/a
X .98 23 112 24 112 26 12
Hip 36 11• 37 1/ 4 38 1/ 4 39 3/• 41 1/a
X .98 34 11• 35 1/4 to 'Ia
4 Crotch depth 10 1/ a 10 1/ 4 10 3/a 10 112 10%
5
No reduction 10 3 22 7/a 23 23 1/a
Waist to knee No reduction 22 31a 22 112 22% 22 /•
3a'la 38 31• 39
6 Waist to ankle 1 38 38 1/4
No reduction 37 12 37% 8 3/• 9 9 1/•
7 Ankle 8 a';, 8 112 14 7/a
X .98 7% 14 '1s
8 Knee 7 14 1/a 14 %
X .98 13 31a 13% 13 /a
2 3/a
1
2'1s
9 Front crotch 2 114
1
2 1• 2 3/a 2 12
3 '1.
X .98 2 11a 3 1/a 3 1/•
10 Back crotch 3 3 11a t 21a
X .98 2 71a 3 1 1/• 1 1/•
t1 Crotch angle 1 1/a 1 1/a 16 112
1 11a 1 1la 16 1/ •
12 X .98
15 112 15 31• 16
2 31•
t3
Nape to waist No reduction 15 11a 15% 2 51a 2 3/4
Back neck 1
2 12 2 51a 2'1s 7 7
/a 'Ia
14 No reduction 2% 7 7
1a /a 5'1'2
Back neck rise 3;. 7
1a 1a 1 5 '1s
ts X .98 5 1/a 5 /•
Shoulder length 4 7/a 5 7% 8 a'l•
16 No reduction 4%
7'1s ?'Ia 23'1s
7 1/s 7 1/4
Across back 23 % 23'/s
17 X .98 23 '14 1'1'2
Sleeve length 23 1/a 1 1h
18 No reduction 22 71a 23 1 3/a 1 '1'2 3
Shoulder pitch t 'ls 1 31• 12 12 3/s 12 1•
19
B1cep X .98 1% 7 11 1/• 11 'Ia 6% 6 1h
10 1/2
1
20 10 /a 1 6 1• 16 118
Wrist X .98 6 /a 15 31•
21 X .98 5 314 5 71• 6
15 114 15 418 7 119
Neck 14 718 7 7
6 31• 6 19
1 14% 1
22
Bust span
X .98 14 1• 6% 10 718 11 19
23 X .98 6 3/a 6 112 1 10% 10'19
Bust level 9 71a 10 1a
No reduction 9%
 '4-5- Af''f'ENOIX. COSTING SHEETS

JUNIOR SIZE STRETCHY KNIT REDUCTIONS

d~rectoon
n reductions in lengthwise direction.
Tluee pe.-cent smaller on crosswose wothout ab Y that stretch from 50% to 75%. h fnal garment will have twoll tape to stab!-
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fa ncs t to the shoulder measurement. Since t e '
Multiply your across measurements by .97, 3% smaller, excep r
l•ze the seam and prevent 11 from stretch•ng.

Extra
Multiply Your Across Extra Extra E x tra
Measurements By Small Small Small M edium L arge Large

0 2 6 10 14 18
40 31•
7
1 Bust < .97 31 32 33 35 37 1•
2 Wa•st X .97 23 114 24 1 4 26 1/4 28 11• 31 34
3 Hop X .97 34 35 35 7/o
7
37 1• 40 314 43 5;.
4 Crotch depth No reduction 10 10 10 112 10'1. 11 11 114
5 Warst to knee No reduct1on 22 114 22 1/4 23 1/s 23% 23% 23 716
6 Wa1st to ankle No reduction 37
1
18 37 114 38'1. 39 114 39% 40 1/4
7 Ankle X 97 7' 7 'Is 8 11s a% 9 9%
8 Knee 13 314
1
X 97 13 1/4 14 118
10
11
12
9 Front crotch
Back crotch
Crotch angle
~ .97
< .97
< .97
2'A!
2 3 '4
1
13 1'2
2 1•
3
1
1
2 1/ 4
3
1 1/s
2 318
3 1/s
1 1/4
14%

3%
1
2 12

1'/4
15 118
2 314
3%
1%
'
Nape to wa•st No reduct1on 15 15 1/s 15 7/s 16% 16 718 17 3/s
13
14
15
Back neck
Back neck nse
Shoulder length
No reduCtion
' .97
No reduct•on
2 1/4
";,
4 3/4
2 112
7
1s
4 3/4
2%

5
'Is
2 3/4
1
s%
2 7/s
1
3 112
1 118
5 71s
'•
•
16 Across back s%
X .97 7 1
7 18
17 Sleeve length 7% 8 8% 8 3/4
18
No reduct1on 22% 22 314 23% 23 716 24 1/s 24 318
Shoulder potch X 97 , ,/4 1 318 1 112
19 81cep 1% 1 112 1 112
)( .97 10% 10 3/4 11 1/s 11 7/s ~
20 Wnst X .97 5 3/4 7 12% 13 31s
6 3/s
5 1• 6 1
21 Neck 6 18 6%
22 Bust span
' 97 14 1/s 14% 14 3/4 15% 16 16 112
I
23
~ .97 6 318 1
6 12 6% 6 7/s
Bust level 7 7 318
No reductiOn gO;. 9 7/s 10 10 112 11 11 112 i

JUNIOR SIZE SUPER- STRETCH REDUCTIONS

•
~

F1ve percent smaller •n crossw1se d1rect1on without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Ei
Use these measurements when draftong slopers for fabncs that stretch from 75% to 100%.
t
~am
Multoply your across measurements
and prevent by .95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-
11 from stretch1ng.
I
Ex tra
Multiply Your Across
Measurements By
Extra Extra I
Small Small Extra
Small M e dium large large I

•••
0 2
1 Bust 6 10 14
2 Waost
X .95 30 31a 31 31s
18
3 X .95 22 314 32 1/4 34 1/4
Hop
.95 23 3/4 25%
37 39 7/s
4 Crotch depth
X 33 1/4 34 % 27 1/2 30% 33 1/4
5 No reduct1on g3;, 35 1/s 37
Waost to knee 9 7/s 10 112 39 7/a 42 3/4
6 Waost to ankle
No reduction 21 3/4 21 7/s 10 3; . 11
23 1/s 11 1/•
36 3/s

.
7 Ankle No reduction
23% 23 7/s
36% 38 3/4 23%
8
9
Knee
Front crotch
X
X
.95
.95 13
7 112 7 3/4 8
39 '!.
8 3/s
39 3/4 40 1/4 II
10 X .95 1 13 1/s 13 3/s 9 9%
Back crotch 2 /s 1 13 7/s
.95 2 /s 2 1/4 14% 14 7/s

•..•
11 Crotch angle X
2'1. 7 2 3/s 1
12 X .95 2 /s 3 2 /2 2%
Nape to waist 1 1 3
13 No reduction 1 /s 1 3% 3%
Back neck 14 % 14 7/s 1 1/s
14 Back neck rose No reduction
2 1/4 15 7/s 1'/4 1 3/s
15 X .95 2% 16% 16'1a
Shoulder length 3;. 7 2% 23;, 17 %
16 Across back No reduction
4 5;.
/s 'Is 2 7/s 3'1'2
17 .95 4% 1
X
6 7/s 5 1 1 1/a
18
Sleeve length
No reduction 7 5 3/a
Shoulder pitch 22 1/4 7% 5% 5 7/a
19 X .95 22 3/ s 8
Bocep 1 31s 23 % 23 7/a
8% 8 3/•
20 Wrist X .95
10 114
1%
1 3/s 24 1/a 24%
21 X .95 105;. 1% 1 '1'2
Neck s% 11 1 11'2
22 Bust span X .95 53;. 11 % 12%
23 13 7/s 5 7/s 13
X .95 14 1/s 6 6 1/4
Bust level
6 '1• 14 3/s 6 '1'2
No reduction 6 3/s 15 15 5/a
9 316 6 112 6 3;. 16 1/ •
9% 7
9 7/a 10% 7'1e
1o•;, 11 tl•
 APPENDIX:
COSTING S HEETS
453
OR SIZE RIB REDUCTIONS
JUNI
-mailer 1n crosswJse d~rectton without any reductions In 1 .
Ttfl pt'rc;en~:asurements when drafting slopers fo r fabncs that stretc~"~ci~~lse directton.
0
use these across measurements by .90. 10% smaller. except forth h and over.
~tulttPIY )'our eam and prevent it from stretching. e
5
oulder measurement
5
.
stJbthZB the s . ~nee the f•nal garment Will have tw II t

--
1
Ex tra ape to
Multiply Your Across Extra Extra
M easurements By Small Sma ll
Small Extra
Medium
0 2 l arge l arge
6
10
Bust
X .90 28 314 29 314 14 18
I X .90 30 5;,
Wa1st 21 112 22 112 32 31a 35 1/a
2 X .90 31 112 1 24 114 26 118 37 3; ..
3 Hip No reduction
32 12 33 114 28 3/4 31 112
9 114 35 11a
4
crotch depth 9'14 10 112 37 314 40 112
10 3/4
No reduction 1
5
wa 1st to knee 20 12
1 20 314 23 11a It 11
1
No reduction /4
6
wa1st to ankle 34 12 34 314 38 314
233;. 23% 23 718
Ankle
X .90 7 1
7 /4 39 114 39 314
7 X .90 1
1
7 12 8 40 1/4
6 Knee 12 14 12 112 12 314 a';, 7
8 18
Front crotch X .90 2 2 13 11a 13 518
9 2 14
Back crotch X .90 3
2 14 2'1. 2 1/4 2 31a
tO 2314 2 112
X .90 3 3 1/a
11 crotch angle 1 1 1 3 318
13 314 1 1
Nape to waist No reduction 14 1 /e 1
12 15 718 16 318
1 /4
Back neck No reduction 1
2 14 2 114 16 718 17%
13 2% 2 314
Back neck rise X .90 314 314 2 7/a 3 112
14 'Ia 1 1 1
t5 Shoulder length No reduction 4 114 4 '12 5 1 /6
1 5'1. 5'1a
16 Across back X .90 6 12 6'1. 7% 8
s'l•
No reduction 8 113 83
17 Sleeve length 21 21 114 23% 23 718
/4
X .90 1 114 1 114
24 118 24 318
16 Shoulder pitch 1 2h 1 113 1'1. 13h
t9 Bicep X .90 9314 10 3
X .90 1
5 14
10 18 11 11 314 12 318
WriSt 5'12 5'12
20 5314 6 6 218
21 Neck X .90 13 13 112 13% 14 1/4 14 314 15'18
X .90 6 318
6 1
22 Bust span 6 6 1a 6% 6314
23 Bust level No reduction 9 9 9 31a 9314 10 114 10314

JUNIOR SIZE FOUR-WAY-STRETCH REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller in crossw1se direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions. . . .
Multiply your measurements by .90, 10% smaller, in both directions except for the shoulder measurement, s1nce the !mal garment w111 have twill
tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.

Extra Extra
Multiply Your Across Extra Extra l arge
Small Medium large
Mea s urements By Small Small
10 14 18
0 2 6
1 32'18
3 30% 31 12
1 Bust X .90
3
28 14 29 314 29 1• 1 25 114
1
26 18
2 Waist 1 1
22 12 23 318 24 14 1 1
35 18
X .90 21 12 33 114 34 14
3 Hip 1 32 112 32 % 10 '/a
X.90 31 12 7 10 10
4 Crotch depth 9 114 9 1/4 9 /8
22 22 1/4
X .90 7 22
5 Waist to knee 20'1. 21 1• 37 114
X .90 20 112 3
7
36 18 37
6 Waist to ankle X .90
1
34 12 34 1• 36%
7 112 7 314 8
7 1 7% 13 'Ia
8
Ankle
X .90 7 7 /4 1
12 12 12 314 13
2 114
Knee 1
12 1•
1
12 12 2 2 118 1
X .90 3 1•

~
9 Front crotch 2 2 1
3 18
10 X .90 2 3 1 1/c
Back c rotch 3
2 1• 2 31• 3
1 1 118 1 114
3 1
11 X .90 1 1e 15 18 15 h
Crotch angle 1 1 7 15 2 314
12
Nape to waist
X .90
3 14
14 18 2 314
13 X .90 13 14 2% 1
1 2% 1 'Ia

§
Back neck
No reduction 2 114 2 /4 1
1a 1a
5 114 5 3/a
14
Back neck rise 3/4
a;, 5
15 No reduction 1
4 12 5 7 314 8
7
Shoulder length 4 1/4 7%
16 No reduc tion 7 318 3
23 1•
23 18
1
Across back 6 112 6 '1. 1 23% 1 1h
17 No reduction 23 h 1h

--
1 1
Sleeve length 21 21 /4 1 12 3 11
18 No reduc tio n 1 1% 10 14
Shoulder pitch 1 1 /4 10 % 531•
19 No red uction 1 14 10 5'/a
20
B1cep
X .90 9 3/4 10
s% s'n
1
1
15 h
7
15 /a
21
Wrist
X .90 5 1/4 s'l2 7
14 /a
15 /4 6 1/4 6%
22
Neck
13
1
13 12 6'/a
10
10%
No reduction 6 g';.
23 Bust span 6
X .90 6 9%
Bust level 9 9
X .90
454 APPENDIX : COSTING SHEETS

PETITE SIZE STABLE KNITS REDUCTIONS . . .

. . . . ut an reductions in lengthwise direction. . . .
Zero percent smaller in crossw,se d~rect,on With~ f ~rics that stretch from O% to 25%. . e the final garment Will have t will tape to stabi-
Use these measurements when draftmg slopers ~~ ra except for the shoulder measurement, SlnC
Multiply your across measurements by 1_. 0% sma e , E
lize the seam and prevent it from stretchmg. xtra
Multiply Your Ac r oss E xtra sma ll M e dium L arge Large
M easurem ents By Sma ll 14 18
6 10
2 1 1
1 1
35 12 38 12 41 /z
31 112 33 12 1 30 112
1
33 12
X 1 1 27 12
1 Bust 23 112 25 12 1 41 112
1
44 /z
Waist X 1 36 112 38 12
2
X 1 34 112 10 7/e
1
11 / e
Hip 10%
3
No reduction 10 1/e 10% 7 22 1/e 22 %
4 Crotch depth 21 % 21 /e
No reduction 21 % 38 1/e 38 %
5 Waist to knee 36 % 37 1/ e 37%
No reduction 7 1/s 7% 7%
6 Waist to ankle
6% 6 7/e
Ankle X 1 14 1/ 4 14 3/ 4 15 1/4
7 13 1/ 4 13 3/4
Knee X 1 2% 2 3/4
8 1
2 /e 2 1/ 4 2%
9 Front crotch X 1 3 1/ 4 3 112 3 3/ 4
X 1 2 7/e 3
1%
10 Back crotch
1 1 1/e 1 1/ 4 1%
X 1 16 1/4 16 3/ 4
11 Crotch angle
14 3/4 15 1/ 4 15 3/4
12 Nape to waist No reduction 2% 2 112
2 1/4 2% 2%
13
14
Back neck
Back neck rise
No reduction
X 1 3/4 3;. •;.
1
3/4
3
5%
7/8

Shoulder length No reduction 4 7/e 5 5 /s 5 /e

15
7 1/ 4 7% 7 3/4 8 8 1/ 4
16 Across back X 1 1
17 Sleeve length No reduction 21 1/4 21 112 21% 22 22 / •
X 1 1 3; . 1% 1% 1'12 1 112
18 Shoulder pitch
X 1
3
10 /s 11 1/ e
7
11 /e 12% 13 3/e
19 Bicep
Wrist X 1 5 3/4 6 112
1
7 /4 8 8 3/ 4
20
Neck X 1 13'1. 14 14 1/4 14 112 14 3/ 4
21
22 Bust span X 1 6% 6 7/ e 7 7% 7 7/e
23 Bust level No reduction 9 3/e 9%
7
9 /e 10 1/e 10 3/e

PETITE SIZE MODERATE REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%.
Multiply your across measurements by .98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since t he final garment will have twill tape to stabi-
lize the seam and prevent it from stretching.

Multiply Your Ac ross Ex tra Extra

M easure m ents By Small Small Medium Large Large
2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust 7
X .98 30 /e 32 7/e 34% 37 % 40%
2 Waist X .98 23 7 7
3 25 27 29 /e 32 11!
Hip X .98 33 3/4 35 3/4 37% 40% 43%
4 Crotch depth No reduction 10 'Is 7
5 10% 10% 10 /e 1
11 /1!
Waist to knee No reduction
6 Waist to ankle
21 % 21% 21 7/e 22 1/e 22%
No reduction 36% 37 1/e
7 Ankle 37% 38 'Is 38%
X .98 6 112 6 3/4
8 Knee X .98
7 7% 7 112
13
9 Front crotch .98
13% 14 14 3/a 14 711!
X 2 1/e 2 1/4 2 1/4
10 Back crotch X .98 7 2 112 23/•
11 Crotch angle 2 /e 3 3 1/e
X .98 3% 3%
12 Nape to waist 1 1 1/e 1 1/e 1 1/4 1311!
No reduction 14 3/4 1
13 Back neck No reduction 15 /4 15 3/ 4 1
16 /• 16 3/•
14 Back neck rise 2'1. 2%
X .98 3/4
2% 23/a 2 112
15 Shoulder length 3/4 3;. 3;. 711!
No reduction 4 7/e
16 Across back 5 5'1e
X .98 7 1/4 5% s%
17 Sleeve length No reduction 7 112 7% 8 1
21 ';. 8 1•
18 Shoulder pitch X .98 21 112 21 3/• 1
19 Bicep 1% 22 22 /•
1%
20 Wrist X .98 10 'Is 11
1% 1 'n 1 'h
21 Neck X .98 5% 11 % 12 3/a 13 'Ia
X .98 e% 7'/a 5
22 Bust span 13 '12 13 31•
7 '1a & /a
23 Bust level X .98
a%
14 14 114 14 111
No reduc tion 1 a% 7 1
9 7 1• 7 5"
/• 9 3111 9 5/a 10 10~
 APPENDIX:
COSTING SHEETS
455
ETITE SIZE STRETCHY REDUCTIONS
p ercent smaller .1n crossw1.se d'~rect 10n
'
without any reductions in •
1
Three ~se measurements when draftmg slopers for fabrics that stretch ~rngthw1~e direction.
use ~h our across measurements by .97, 3% smaller, except forth om 50 Vo to 75%.
Muii1P1YYam and prevent it from stretching. e shoulder measureme 1 .
hze these n , Since the final garment .
Multiply Your Across Extra Will have twill tape to stabi-

= ================M~e~a~s~u~r;e~m~e~n~t~s~B~y======~S=m~a=l=========~==------~~~~----~~~~~~~~~
--- Small M edium Extra
Large

-------~------------------~~~--------~~~------~~~======~~~==~~~======~~=
Large
10
Bust 14 18
1
Waist 34%
2 37 3/a 40 1/4
3 Hip 26% 29 % 32 112
crotch depth 37 3/a
4 40 1/4 43 1/8
Waist to knee 10%
5 10 7/a
Waist to ankle 21 7/a 11%
6 22 1/a 22 3/a
Ankle 37 %
7 38 1/a 38 5/a
Knee 7 7 1/a
8 13 3/4 7 3/a
9 Front crotch 14 1/c 14 3/ ..
Back crotch 2 3/a 2 112
10 3 118 2 3/c
11 Crotch angle 3 3/a 3'1.
12 Nape to waist 1 'I• 1 1/4 1'1.
15 31. 1
16 /4
13 Back neck 16 3/4
Back neck rise 2'1. 2'1. 2 112
14 'I•
15 Shoulder length 'I• 'Ia
5 1/a s'le s'ta
16 Across back 7 31• 8 81
/4
17 Sleeve length 21 314
18 Shoulder pitch
22 22 1/•
1% 1'1. 1 112
19 Bicep 11 112 12 11• 13
20 Wrist 7 7 31. 8 112
21 Neck 13 718 14 14
1
/•
22 Bust span 7
6 1• 7 1/4 7'1.
23 Bust level 9% 9 '1• 10

.. PETITE SIZE SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS

Five percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%. . . .
Multiply your across measurements by .95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement since the final garment Will have twill tape 10 stabl·
llze the seam and prevent it from stretching.

..
Extra
Multiply Your Across Extra Large Large
Small Medium
Measurements By Small
14 18
6 10
2
3 36'1. 39 318
7 33 1•
Bust 30 31 1• 1 29 31 718
X .95
~ Waist
Hip
X .95 22%
32 3 34%
1
24 1• 26 18
36 % 39'1e
10 7
/8
, ,,.
42 1/ •
X .95 /•
tO% tO 'Ia 22318
4 Crotch depth No reduction 10 'Ia 7 22 118
21 'Ia 21 1• 1 38'18
5 Waist to knee No reduction 21% 38 18
37 118 37'1e 7 1/ 4
6 Waist to ankle 36% 6 31• 7
7 Ankle
No reduction 1 6 112 1 14 14 3/7
X .95 6 /4 13 12 2'18
8 1 13 2 112
Knee X .95 12 12 2 11• 1
3 12
9 2 1/s 3 '1s
Front crotch X .95 2 7 3 ,,/4 1 3/8
10 2"1. 2 1• 1 1
ls 3
Back crotch X .95 16 11• 16 1•
11 1 2 112
Crotch angle 1 15'1<
12 X .95
14 314
1
15 1• 2'1s
2'18 'Is
Nape to waist No reduction 2'1s ';.
13
14
Back neck No reduction 2 1/4 314 1
'I• s',~e
s'IB
a';.
Back neck rise 31• 5 /8
15 X .95 5 8 1
Shoulder length 4 711• 7 31• 22 1•
16 No reduction 7 112 21 3/•
22 1 112
Across back 7 14 1 1'"' 3
17 X .95 21 12 12 1•
Sleeve length 21 11• 1% 12
18
Shoulder pitch
No reduction
1 11•
1'1s 11 2/8 7'"'
8 °/8
X .95 10'1s 14
19
20
Bleep
X .95
7
9 /s
1 6'"' 13
1
/!!
6'"' 5
t 3 1• 7'"'
Wrist 7
21
Neck
X .95 5 12
13
1
13 1• 6 31• g•"' g'"'
22
23 Bust span
X .95
X .95
6 11•
6'1!!
g',le g'"'
Bust level 9
No reduction
 -4-St' l\l'l't:NDIX COSTING SHEETS

PETITE SIZE RIB REDUCTIONS ---

crosshw~~~~aftlng slopers for fabncs that stretch 100% and over
rrechon Without any reductions '" lengthwise direction
'en pe.-c<>nl smaller In ent smce the fmal garment will have twill tape to
Use these
Multtply measurements
your w e
across measurements by .90. 1O% smaller· except for the shoulder measurem •
stab,hze the seam and prevent II from stretchmg. Extra

Multiply Your Across Extra Small Medium l a r ge large

Measurements By Small

2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust ' 90 28 30 118 32
2 Wa1st X 90 21' El 3 27 112
23 24 '• 30 1/a
3 H1p X 90 31 32 'ia 34 5/a 37 31a 40
4 Crotch depth No reduct10n 10 1/a 10 3 /s 10% 10 71a 11 11a
5 Wa1st to knee No reduct1on 21 3-11 21% 21 71a 22 11a 22 3/a
6 Watst to ankle No reductron 36.11 37 1/a 37 5/a 38 1/a 38 51a
7 Ankle X 90 6 6 1/4 6 3/a 7
6% 6 1a
8 Knee x .90 11 ~18 12 318 12 % 13 114
9 Front crotch 13%
' .90 2 2 2 11a 2% 2 112
10 Back crotch X 90 2 3 14 2 7/a
11 Crotch angle
2% 3 11a 3 31a
.90
12 Nape to warst "
No reduction
1
14 3/4
1
15 114
1
15 314
1 116
16 114
1 114
13 Back neck t6 314
14
No reduct1on 2 114 2 31a 2% 2% 2 112
Back neck nse X 90 3;4 314 314
15 314 7
1a
Shoulder leng!h No reduction 4 7 1a
16 Across back 1
5 5 11a 5% 5%
~ .90 7 /4 7 112 73;, 1
17 Sleeve length 8 8 14
No reduct1on 21 114 21 112 21 314
18 Shoulder p1tch X 90 1 114
22 22 114
19 B1cep 1 114 1 114 1 31a 3
1 1a
20 Wnst
' 90 9% 10 10 314 11 % 12
21
•. 90 5 1/a 5 71a 6 112 ?';,
Neck > 90 12 31a 7 71a
22 Bust span 12% 12 71a 13 13 114
X 90
23 Bust level No reduct1on
6
1
6 1/a 6 31a 631, 7
8 12 a% 7
8 1a 1
9 1a 9 31a

PETITE SIZE FOUR-WAY-STRETCH REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller 1n crossw1se dtrecllon and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when draftmg slopers for fabncs that stretch 100% in both directions.
Multiply
llze your across
the seam measurements
and prevent by .90. 1% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twi ll tape to stabi-
11 from stretch1ng

M ultiply Your A c r oss Ex tra

Measurements By Small Extra
Small Medium L arge L a rge
2 6
1 Bust 10 14
.90 18
2 Wa1st
X
28 31a 29 114
3 H1p X .90 21 11a 30 11a 31
22 7
32
X .90 23
4 Crotch depth 31 32 23 1a 24 314
5 Wa1st to knee
X .90 9% 32 71a 33 314
9314 34 %
6 X .90 20'1, 9 71a 10
Waist to ankle
X .90 20 31a 20 112
10
7 Ankle 34 314 20% 20 314
8 X .90 35 35 114 1
Knee 6 6 3 5 12 35 314
9 Front crotch X .90
11 71a 6 114 6 114
X .90 12 6%
10 12% 12 112
Back crotch
X .90
2 2 12 314
11 Crotch angle 2 71a 2 2 11a
12 X .90 3 2 11a
Nape to wa1st 1 3 3 11a
1 11a 3 114
13 Back neck X .90
14 1 11a 1 11a 1 2/8
14 No reduction 14 114 14 112
Back neck rise 2'1, 14 3;.
15 Shoulder length No reduct1on 2 31a 2%
15
314 314 2% 2%
16 No reducllon 3;.
Across back
No reduction 4 71a 5
314 3;.
17 Sleeve length 1 5
7 14 5 5 11a
18 Shoulder pitch No reduction 7% 7 112
No reduct ion 21 114 7% 7 314
19 Bicep 21 % 21 112
20 X .90 1 31a 21 % 2 1 31•
Wrist 1% 1%
21 9 31a 1% 1%
Neck X .90 9%
22 No reduc tion 5 11a 1 10 10% 10 611!
Bust span 5 12 5 71a
13 314 1
6 112
23 Bust level X .90 13 71a 14
6 1•
X .90 6 6 14 11a 14 11•
9 6 11a 1
6 1• 6 311!
9 9'11! 1
9 1• 9 311!
 APPENDIX:

--
COSTIN G S H EETS
457
MISSES TAL~ STABLE KNIT REDUCTIONS
nt smaller 1n crossw1se d•rect•on w•thout any reduct 1ons 10 len thw,
percemeasurements when drafttng slopers for fabncs that stretch fr~m ~e d•rectton.
:ero 0
use th~ ~ur across measurements by 1. 0% smaller, except for the shoulder meto 25%.
5

----
~~LIIfrP"') and prevent It from stretchrng. asurement, s•nce the fi
·e the seam •na1garment will have tw• ll t
~ Multiply Your Across Extra ape to stab•·
Measurements By Small
Small
Medium Extra
2 Large
6 Large
X 1 1 10
eust 32 12 14
1 X 1 34 112 18
warst 24 112 36 112
2 X 1 26 112 39 1h 42 1h
35 112 28 112
3 HIP 37 112 31 1h
Crotch depth No reduction 11 1/4 39 112 42 112
34 \7
4 11 112 45 112
Waist to knee No reduction 24% 11 3/4
5 No reduction 7 24 71a 25 11a
12 12 1/.t
6 wa 1st to ankle 40 1a 41 'Ia 25 3/e
X 1 7 71a 41 7/e 25';,
7 Ankle 8 1/e 42 3/e 7
Knee X 1 13% 1 8'1a 8 '1e
42 /e
8 X 1 2 1/4
14 /e
14 '1a 8 7/e
9 Front crotch 2'1a 1 15 1/e 15 %
Back crotch X 1 3 1 2 12 2'1e
10 X 1 1 3 /a 3 1/4 2'1e
11 Crotch angle 1 1a , ,/e , ,/4 3 112 3 3/4
Nape to wa1st No reduction 16'1a 3
12 17% 7 1 /a 1%
Back neck No reduction 2% 17 /a 18 3/e
13
X 1 7
2 112 2 112 18 7/e
14 Back neck nse 1a 7
1a 2'1e 2'1e
Shoulder length No reduct1on 4 71a 'Is 7
1o ';,
15 5 5 1/a
16 Across back 1X 7 112 7 3/4 5% 5'1e

........
1
'7 Sleeve length No reduction 24% 24 %
8 /a 8 112 8 7/e
24 7/e 25 1/e
18 Shoulder p1tch X 1 1
1 12 1% 5 25 3/e
1 /a
19 B•cep X 1 10 % 11 31a
1'1e 13/.t
X 1 7 12 11a 12 7/e t3'1e
20 Wnst 5 1a 6%
Neck X 1 14 %
7% 8 1/e 8 7/e
21 15 15 1/e
Bust span X 1 3 15 3/e 15 5/a
22 6 14 7 7 1/4 7%
23 Bust level No reduction 10 314 11 11 1/4
8
11 1h 11 3/4

..... MISSES TALL MODERATE REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%.
Multtply your across measurements by .98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-

..........-
llze the seam and prevent 1t from stretching.

Multiply Your Across Extra Extra

Measurements By Small Small Medium Large Large

10 14 18
2 6
~ Bust X .98
7
31 1a
3
33 1• 35 '1< 38 31•
7
41 '1s
33 3/4
Wa1st 28 30 /e

...
X .98 24 26 44 518
Htp 36 314
3 41 'Is
X .98 34 314 38 1• 1
12 /4
4 Crotch depth No reduction 11 114 11 112 11 3/4 12
5 25 1a1 25% 25'1s
Watst to knee No reduction 24 % 24 71a 42 7/e
6 Watst to an kle 41 'Ia 41 71a 42%
No reduction 40 71a 1
8 12 8 3/4
7 Ankle 7 314 8 a't• 153/e
8 X .98
14% 14 7/a
Knee X .98 13 318 13 71a 2 '1s 23/•
9 Front crotch 1 2 114 2 '1s 1 3 3/4
10 X .98 2 1a 3 1/ 4 3h
,,;..

.............
Back crotch 2 71a 3 1'1s
11 X .98 1
1
Crotch angle X .98 1 1 11a /4
18'1s 18 7/a
12
Nape to waist 17'1a 17 71a 2'1s
16 71a 1 2'1s
~
13 No reduction 1 2 12
Back neck 2'12 2 12 7
7
1a 'Ia
14 No reduction 7 1a
Back neck rise 7
1a 1a 5% 5 '1s
15
Shoulder length
X .98 7 5 5 11a 8 7/a
16 No reduction 4 1a 8 11a 8'12
Across back 7 112 7 314 25 1/a 25%
17 24 71a

..
X .98 1'1s
18
Sleeve length
No reduction 24 31a 24'1s
1%
1'1s
13 3/o
Shoulder pitch 1 112 1 112 12%
19
Bicep X .98 1 11 'A> 8 3/•
11 1a 8
20 Wrist X .98 10 % 1 7'/4
15 1/a 15 3/o
21 5 314 6 12 7
73/•
~ Neck X .98 14 1a 7'1a
14 31a 14 '1s
22
Bust span X .98 6 3/4 7 1 1t 1h
11
23 6 112 11
/•

.....,._ Bust lever X .98

No reduction 10 112 10314

.....
~
 M'l'liNOI COSTING SHEETS

MISSES TALL STRETCHY REDUCTIONS dtrect 1on.

reductions '" lengthwise %. . ent will have twill tape to stabi-
T ''t't' Pl"'rcent smaller'" crossw•se direction without a;y that stretch from so% to 75 nt since the final garm
u~e these measurements when draft•ng slopers for fa ncs t for the shoulder measureme ,
M~lhply your across measurements by .97, 3% smaller, excep Extra
h:e the seam and prevent 1t from stretchmg. Large Large
Multiply Your Across Extra small Medium
Measurements By Small 14 18
10
2 6
41 1/•
31 33 1/z 30 112 33 112
Bust X .97 25 314 27%
1 23 ·,. 38% 41 1/4 44 1/e
2 Warst ' .97 3 36'1e 12 12 1/4
3 H1p X .97 34 1 • 11 , 2 11 3/4
No reductron 11 /4 1
25 /e 25% 25%
4 Cro1ch depth 24 116
Warst to knee No reductron 24% 41 7/8 42 % 42 7/8
5 41 J/8
6 Warst to ankle No reductron 40 18 7
7 118 8 118 a% a%
7 Ankle X 97 7'.rs 14 1/e 14 % 15 1/8
13 1/4 13 3/4
8 Knee 97 2 3/8 2% 2 3/4
2 1/4
X
9 Front crotch X 97 2 1/o 3 1/4 3% 3%
2 '18 3 1 1/4
10 Back crotch
' 97
t 1/8 1 1/4 t%
11 Crotch angle X 97 1 17 7/s 18% 1a 7/8
No reductron 16 7/8 17 3/8
12 Nape to wa1st
2 1/2 2 1/2 2% 2%
13 Back neck No reductron 2 112 7/s 7/8 7/8
7/8 7/8
14 Back neck rrse X .97
4 7/e 5 5 1/e 5% 5%
15 Shoulder length No reductron 8 7/s
16 Across back .97 7 12
1 7 3/4 a 1
/8 a'/2
X
24 7/s 25 1/s 25 %
17 Sleeve length No reductron 24 318 24%
1 112 1 1/2 1s/8 t% t%
18 Shoulder p1tch X .97
10 1/4 11 t1 3/4 t2 112 t3 1/4
19 B1cep X 97
20 Wnst ".97 5 3/4 6% 7 1/8 7% a%
1
21 Neck )( .97 14 1/4 14 112 14 3/4 15 15 /4
22 Bust span X .97 6 112 6 3/4 7 7% 7 3/4
23 Bust level No reduction 10 3/8 10% 10 /s 7 1t t1 3/8

MISSES TALL SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS

Five percent smaller'" crossw1se d~rect1on w1thout any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when draft10g slopers for fabncs that stretch from 75% to 100%.
Multiply your across measurements by 95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-
hze the seam and prevent 1t from stretch1ng.

Multiply Your Across Extra Extra

Measurements By Small Small Medium Large Large
2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust X .95 30 7/e
2 Wa1st 32 3/4 34 % 1
X .95 23 1/4 37 12 40%
3 H1p 25 1/e 27
".95 33 3/4 35 %
30 32 %
4 Crotch depth 37 112 1
No reduction 1t 1/4 1
t1 h
40 % 43 /4
5 Wa1st to knee tt % 12 1/ 4
No reduction 24 5/ e 7
24 /e 1
t2
6 Wa1st to ankle No reduction 40 7/e 25 /e 25% 25%
7 Ankle X .95 4t % 4t 7/ e 7
7 112

••
3 42% 42 / 8
a Knee X .95 t3
7 /4 8 8 1/ 4 8%
9 Front crotch X .95 t3 % t3 7/8
2 1/8 2 1/4 14% 7
14 /8
tO Back crotch X .95 2 3/4 3
2% 1
2 12 2 3/4
tt Crotch angle X .95 3 1/8
1 1 1/8 3% 3%

••
t2 Nape to waist No reduction t 1/ 8
16 7/e t7 % 1 '1. 1%
t3 Back neck No reduction 1 17 7/8
14 Back neck nse
2 12
7
1
2 12 1 183/8 7
18 /8
X .95 18 7 2 12
15 Shoulder length No reduction 18 2% 2%
4 7;. 7/a
7/8 7/8
16 Across back 5

••
X .95 7 112 5 '1e
17 Sleeve length No reduction 73;, s% 5%
24 % 8 1/8 7
18 Shoulder pitch X .95 24% 8 'h 8 /8
1 112 24 7/8 1
19 Bicep X .95 t 112 1 25 /e 25%
10 1 12
20 Wrist X .95 103;. 1 1% 1%
5% s';, 11 12
21 Neck X .95 14 12 1/4 13
7
t4 1/8
22 Bust span X .95
6%
7 3;. 8 3/i I
•
23 Bust level 14%
No reduction t0 1/8
6% 7
6 /e
14 % 147/i
10% 7,/s 1
10 % 7 12
7 1
10 /s 11 /i
 APPENDIX:
COSTING S H EETS
459

TALLRIBREDU~C~T~IO~N~S~========----------------------------------
MISSE5 r 1n crossw1se d~rect1on without any reductions in lengthw ise directio
. •t"t'··ct'nt :;nutl~:ments wt1en draftmg slopers for fabncs that stretch 100% and over. n.
t f*Se m~su measurements by .90, 10% smaller, except for the shoulder me
l .:~ tpl\ rour across d prevent It from stretching. asurement, s•nce the f~nal garm t .

----
~•'-''t' me seam an en Will have twill tape to
5ts~'hz• Multiply Your Across E xtr a
Measurements By Small
Small
Medium Extra
2 Large Large
6
10
X .90 29 114 14
31 18
Bust X .90 22 32 11a
23 7/a 35 1;,
38 114
; waist X .90 32 25%
1 33 3/4 1 28 113 3t
HiP No reduct1on 35 12
11 14 1
11 12 38 114
3 crotch depth No reduction 24% 7 11 314 12
41
4 Waist to knee 24 /a 25 1/a 12 114
No reduction 40 11a 25 31a
~ Waist to ankle X .90 7
41 % 41 7/a
42 3/a
25 5/a
Ankle
7 3;. 7'12 42 11a
7 X .90 12 114 12 314 1 7 314 8
Knee X .90 2 1 13 /a 13%
8 2 1a 14
Front crotch X .90 7 2 1/ 4 2 3/a 1
9 2% 2 1a 2 12
Back crotch X .90 3 3 1/4
0
~1 Crotch angle
1
7
1 1 1/a 1 3 3/a
No reduction 16 1a 17% 7 1 /4 1 1/4
Nape to wa1st 1 17 /a 18 3/a
12
Back neck .
No reduction 2 12 1
2 12 1 18 7/a
13 X .90 7 7 2 12 2%
14 Back neck nse 1a 1a 7
/a
2%
7 'Ia 1
Shoulder length No reduction 4 1a 5 1a
15 X.90 1 3 5'1• 5% 5%
Across back 7 12 7 14 1 1
8 /a
16
Sleeve length No reduction 24 % 24 'Ia 7
8 12 a';•
17 X .90 3 3
24 /a 25 1/a 25 31a
Shoulder p1tch 1 1a 1 1a 1
1 12 1
18 X .90 9'1. 10 ';.
1 12 1 112
19 Bicep 11 11% 1
12 /4
Wrist X .90 5'1• 6 3
20 1 6% 7 /a 8
Neck X .90 13 14 13% 5
13 1a 7
21 1 13 1a 14
X .90 6 6 14 1
22 Bust span 6 12 6 314 ?'Ia
23 Bust level N o reduction 9% 9 71a 10 10 114 1
10 12

MISSES TALL FOUR-WAY REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions.
Mulliply your measurements by .90, 10% smaller, in both directions.

Multiply Your Across Extra Extra

Measurements By Small Small Medium Large Large

2 6 10 14 18
7
Bust 1 1 31 32 32 /s
X .90 29 14 30 18 3
Waist 23 'Is 24 14 25%
X .90 22 23 1
Hip 7
32 1•
3
33 14 34 'Ia 35 12
X .90 32 1
11 la
4 Crotch depth 3 11 11
10 /4 10"1.
5 Waist to knee
X .90
X .90 23 %
1
23 12 23% 23%
1
23'"•
39 14 3
6 1 39 12
Waist to ankle 7 39 39 1•
7 X .90 38 1e
7% 7 112
Ankle 7 1•1 7% 1
8 X .90 7 3 13 13 /8
Knee 1 12 12
1 12 /4
9 X .90 12 14 1 1
2 18 2'1s
Front crotch 2 1e
to X .90 2 2 1 1
3 14 3 218
Back crotch 3 3 18 1 1
11 X .90 3 1 1 14 1 1•
Crotch angle 1 1
1 1• 1 1a
12 X .90 1 1a 1 3
16 14 17
Nape to waist 1
16 /4 16 12 2'.12
13
Back neck X .90 16 1
1
2 12 2 112 11a
1 2 12
14 No reduction 2 12 7 'Is
15 Back neck rise 7 7
1a 1s 5'/B
No reduction 1a 5
16 Shoulder length
No reduction
7
4 1a 5 5
3 8 s'~s
17 Across back 1 7% 7 14 3 24 7,~
No reduction 7 12 24 /4
18 Sleeve length 1
24 12 24% 1%
No reduc tion 24 % 1518
19 Shoulder pitch 1 1 1% 11
Bicep No reduction 1 12 1 12
10 'I• 10%
1 6%
20 10 6 /•
Wrist X .90 9% 6 1
21 s% 15 /B
Neck X .90 s';. 15 1
22
14 % 14 3/4 15
1 6 3/a 6 12
23 Bust span No re duction 1 6 /4 1 10%
6 /a 10 12
~
X .90 6 1 10%
1
10 1a 10 /4
X .90
 460 APPENDIX COSTING SHEETS

WOMEN'S SIZE STABLE KNITS REDUCTIONS

s m lengthwtse direct•on. - .
Zero percent smaller'" crosswose d~rectJon Without any ;educt•o~retch from 0% to 25%. nee the final garment woll have twill tape to stabi-
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabncs that 5 h lder measurement, 51
Mull1ply your across measurements by 1. 0% smaller. except for the 5 ou
lize the seam and prevent 1t from stretch•ng. Extra
Extra Medium Large L a rge
Multiply Your Across small
Measurements By Small 14
10 18
6
2 55 59
51
47 47 51
1 Bust X 1 43 43
35 39 58 62
2 Waist X 1 54
1 46 50 3
19 1• 23 314 27 314
3 H1p X 15 314
No reduction 11 314 24 112 24 314 25
4 Crotch depth 24 114
No reduction 24 39 116 3g 31s 39%
5 Wa1st to knee 38 716
6 Wa1st to ankle No reduction 38% 11 11 112 12
10 10 112 18 71a 1
7 Ankle " 1 18% 19 1s
8 Knee X 1 18 11a 18%
3 716 4 31s 4 716
7
2 16 3% 1 1
9 Front crotch X 1 4 12 4'ls 5 1s
3 716 4 11s
10 Back crotch X 1 1 516 2 2 31s
11 Crotch angle X 1 1 112 1% 1
18 16 18%
17 11s 17%
12 Nape to wa1st No reduct1on 16%
4 4 112 5
3 3 112 1
13 Back neck No reduction
1% 1 3/7 1 12 1 112
14 Back neck nse X 1 1 1
s% s% 5 71a 6 6 16
15 Shoulder length No reduction
16 Across back X 1 a% a'Is
1
9 9%
24 %
9%
7
24 1a
7
23 16 24 16 24%
17 Sleeve length No reduction 1 1
1 314 2 2 14 2 12
18 Shoulder p1tch X 1 1 112
16 314
1
14 112 15 114 16 17 12
19 Bicep X 1 1
20 Wrist X 1 7 116 7 71a a% 9% 10 1s
21 Neck X 1 17 114 18 18 314 19 112 20 114
22 Bust span X 1 8 a'l• a'h 8 314 9
23 Bust level No reduction 12 114 12 314
1
13 14 13% 14 114

WOMEN'S SIZE MODERATE REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller 1n crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when draft1ng slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%.
Multiply your across measurements by .98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabo-
lize the seam and prevent it from stretchmg.

Multiply Your Across Extra Extra

Measurements By Small Small M edium L arge
Large
2 6 10 18
14
1 Bust X .98 42 116 46 7
50 53 18 57-'s
2 Waist X .98 34 114 38 114
3 Hip 42 116 46 50
X .98 45 49 53 56 718 60 3 •
4 Crotch depth No reduction 11 314 15 314 3
5 Waist to knee 19'1. 23% 27 '•
No reduction 24 24 114
6 Waist to ankle No reduction 24 112 24% 25
38% 38 71s 1
39 5 ~
7
8
Ankle
Knee
X .98
X .98
9 314
17 314
10 114
18
39 1s
10%
1
39 %
1
11 1•
,,s. .
3
9 Front crotch X .98 2 716 1
18 14 18 112 18 ••
3 14
10
11
Back crotch
Crotch angle
X .98 3 314 4
3%
4%
4 'I•
43...
4 3'•
5
X .98 1%
12 Nape to waist 1 '14 1%
No reduction 16 5;. 2 2'.•
17 116
13 Back neck No reduction 3 17% 18 118 18 5 ~
14 Back neck rise 3 112 4
X .98 1 4 112 5
15 1 31s 1 31e
Shoulder length No reduction 5% 1 112 ,·~
16 Across back 53;. 7
X .98 a% 5 18 6 6 118
17 Sleeve length 8 71a
No reduction 23 716 24 11e
9 9 318 95/o
18 Shoulder pitch X .98 1 112 24% 24 7/o
19 Bicep X .98 1 314 24%
14 114 2 1
2 1• 2'1.1
20 Wrist X .98 15 1
21 Neck
7 73;. 15% 16 3/e 17 /e
X .98 7
16 1s a'n 9'1• 10
22
23
Bust span
Bust level
X .98
No reduction
7 71a
12
17%
8
12%
3
18 /e
8 3/e
13
19
8 5/e
,,,.
19 3.4

13 3/e 14
 --
APPENDIX:
COSTING SHEETS
461
woMEN ~IZE STRETCHY REDUCTIONS
cant smaller in crosswtse d~rectton wtthout any reductions in len . ~----
Th~ per measurements when drafttng slopers for fabrics that stretch fro~1hwt~e direction.
use these ur across measurements by .97, 3% smaller, except for the shout SO Yo to 75%.
MultiplY yo and prevent 11 from stretchmg. der measurement sin .
liZB the seam , ce the fmal garment will
Mult iply Your Acr oss Extr a have twill tape to stabi-
M easure m ents By Small
______------------------------~~~~----~~~------~S~m~a~~~~------~~~
Medium Extra
2 Large
_____-------------------~X~.9~7~--------~~~------~~-----===~==-
41 %
6
10
14
Large
Bust 45 % 18
1 Waist x ·97 34 37 7/e 49 112 ------::=-:;-------------2~-
3
2 41 314 53 /e
Hip X .97 44% 57 1/•
48 112 45 %
3 crotch depth No reduction 11 % 153;.
52%
56 1/4
49 1/2
4 Waist to knee No reduction 24 19 3/4 60 1/e
5 Waist to ankle 24 1/4 24 112
23 3;,
27 3/.
No reduction 38% 38 7/ e 24 3;,
6 Ankle x .97 9'1• 39 1/e 39 3/e
25
7 Knee 10 1/e 10% 39 %
8
x .97 17 % 17 7/e 11 1/e 11 %
Front crotch X .97 2 3/4 18 18 1/4
9 3 1/4 3 3/4 18 112
Back crotch X .97 3 3/ . 4 4 /4
1
4 3/4
10 1 3/e 4 3/a 4 3/4
11
crotch angle x .97 1 1/4 1% 5
Nape to waist No reduction 16% 17 1/e 2 2 1/4
12 17% 18 1/a
Back neck No reduction 3 3 112 18%
13 4 4 112
1
14 Back neck rise x .97 1% 1% 1';,
5
15 Shoulder length No reduction 5% 1 112
5'1• 5 7/a 6
16 Across back x .97 8% 8 7/e 6 1/e
9 9 3/a
17 Sleeve length No reduction 23 7/ e 24 1/e 24%
9'1e
1 112 24'1e 24 7/e
18 Shoulder pitch X .97 1'1• 2 2 114 2 112
19 Bicep X .97 14 14 3;. 15 112 16 1/4 17
20 Wrist x .97 7 7% 8 3/a 9 9 7/e
21 Neck X .97 16% 17 3/e 18 1/a 18 7/a 19%
22 Bust span x .97 7 3/ 4 8 1
8 /• 8 112 8 3/ 4
23 Bust level No reduction 11 7/e 1
12 /• 12 3/4 13 1/• 13 3/•

WOMEN'S SIZE SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS

Five percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics t hat stretch from 75% to 100%.
Multiply your across measurements by .95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-
hze the seam and prevent it from stretching.
Extra
Multiply Your Across Extra Large
Small Medium Large
Measurements By Small
14 18
2 6 10
1 1 56
48 12 52 /•
1 Bust X .95 40 7/s 44% 48 1h
40 7/e 44 '1e
2 Waist X .95 33 1/4 37
1 1/4 55 58 7/e
3 Hip 47 12 51 27 3/•
X .95 43 3/4 23 3/•
4 Crotch depth 15'1. 19'1< 25
No reduction 11 3/4 1 24%
5 Waist to knee 24 1/4 24 /2 39%
No reduction 24 7 39 1/a 39 3/a
6 Waist to ankle 38% 38 /a 1h 11 11 %
7 Ankle No reduction 10 18 1/e
X .95 9 112 10
1 17 3
/ •
18
4%
8 Knee 17 1/4 17 12 4 '/e
X .95 3% 5
9 Front crotch 2 3 3 1/4 1 4%
10 Back crotch X .95 /•
4
4 / 4
17/e 2 1/4
X .95 3% 1/4 1% 18%
11 Crotch angle 1 18 1
/e
1% 17%
12
Nape to waist
X .95 1
17 /a 4 1h 5
16% 4 11h
13
Back neck
No reduction
3 3 112 1 1h
6'/e
14 No reduction 1'1s
1'1s 6
15
Back neck rise X .95 1 3 5 7/e 9%
g'/e
5 /• 24 7/e
16 Shoulder length No reduction 5%
8 7
/e
9 24%
Across back s% 1 24% 2'1e
17 X .95 2'/a
Steeve length 7
23 /s
24 /a 2 16 51e
ta No reduction 1 1
3
/• 1 16 g'le
t9 Shoulder pitch X .95 1 12 1 15 /4 9
B1cep 13 3/4
14 h 1
8 /• 1 19 11e
20 Wrist X .95 7 1h 173/•
18 1l 1
8 12
21
Neck X .95 6"1• 17 e•te 13 1h
22 16% 8 13
X .95 7 7/a 1
23 Bust span X .95 7%
12
12 1l
Bust level 11 %
No reduction
 46~ ·\l'f'LNOI'\ COSTING SHEETS

WOMEN 'S SIZE RIB REDUCTIONS

h ut an reductions in lengthwise dtrec tJon.
len percent smaller 'n cross;IS~ d•~~~~~o~o";,'!r~ for flbncs that stretch 100% and over. t since the final garment will have twill tape to
Use these measurements w en ra O% ller except for the shoulder measuremen '
Multiply your across measurements by .90. 1 sma ·
stabilize the seam and prevent Jt from stretChing. Extra
Multiply Your Across Extr a L a rge large
Small Medium
Measurements By Small
10 14 18
2 6
42 11•
7
45 1s 49 112 53 1/s
X .90 38 314 42 11• 45 7/s
1 Bust 1 38%
Wa1st ' .90 31 112 35 1s
52 1/4 55 3/4
2 41 % 45 48%
3 H1p X .90
15 314 19 314 23 31• 27 3/4
No reductiOn 11 314
4 Crotch depth
24 24 11• 24 112 24 ';. 25
No reduct1on
5 Wa1st to knee
38% 38 71s 39 11s 39% 39%
6 Wa1st to ankle No reductiOn
9 112 10 10% 10 3/4
.90 9 17 1/4
16 314
7 Ankle X
16 % 16 112 17
8 Knee X .90 4 3/s
X .90 2% 3 3 112 4
9 Front crotch
3 1/2 3 3/4 4 4% 4 5/s
> .90 1 3/4
10 Back crotch
)( .90
1
1 1• 1 1/s 1 112 2
11 Crotch angle 1a 1/s 1a%
12 Nape to wa1st No reduct1on 16% 17 'Ia 17%
3 3 112 4 4 112 5
13 Back neck No reduct1on
14 Back neck nse )( .90 1 1% 1 31s 1 112 1 112
No reduction 5% 5'1. 5 7/s 6 6 1/s
15 Shoulder length
X .90 a% a 71s 9 9 31s 9%
16 Across back
Sleeve length No reduction 23% 24 11s 24% 24% 24 7/s
17
18 Shoulder p1tch X .90 1% 1% 1% 2 2 114
19 B1cep X .90 13 13 3/4 14 31s 15 15%
20 Wrist X .90 s% 7 7314 a'l2 9 1/s
21 Neck X .90 15 112 16 11s 16 718 17 112 1a 1/8
22 Bust span X .90 7 114 ?'Is 7% ?'Is 8
23 Bust level No reduction 11 11 % 11 % 12% 12 314

WOMEN 'S SIZE FOUR-WAY REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller in crossw1se direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when draftmg slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions.
Multiply your measurements by .90, 10% smaller, 1n both directions.

Multiply Your Ac ross E xtra Extra

Measure ments By Small Sma ll M ed ium L a r ge La rge
2 6 10 14 18
1 Bust X .90 40 112
3a% 42 114 44 118 45 7/8
2 Waist X .90 31 1/2 33 114
3 35 1/8 36 718 3a%
Hip X .90 43 1/4
4 Crotch depth
41% 45 46 3/4 4a %
X .90 11 'Ia 13 15 16 7/8 18 3/4
5 Waist to knee X .90 22%
6
23 23 23 'Ia 23 1/ 4
Waist to ankle X .90 36 314 36 718 37 37 37 'Ia
7 Ankle X .90
a Knee
9 9 11• 9 112 9% 10
X .90 16 318 16% 16 112 16% 16%
9 Front crotch X .90
10 Back crotch
2% 2 7/8 3 3'1. 3 112
X .90 3 7/ s 4 4 1/8 4 3/8 4 112
11 Crotch angle
12
X .90 1 112 1 1h 1% 1 112 1%
Nape to waist X .90
13 15% 16 16 1/4 16 112 16%
Back neck No reduction
14 Back neck rise
3 3'1. 3 112 3 3/4 4
No reduction 1 1%
15 Shoulder length No reduction 1% 1% 1'1s
5% 5%
16 Across back No reduction
5% 5 7/s s'ls
17 Sleeve length a% a% 8 7/8 9 9
18 No reduction 23 7/8 24 24 'Ia
Shoulder pitch No reduction 24 1/4 24%
19 Bicep 1 112 1% 1 3/4
X .90 2 2
13
20 Wrist
X .90
13% 13% 14 14 3!\
21 Neck 6% 6% 7 7 3/•
No reduction 17 114 7%
22 Bust span
X .90
17% 18 18% 18 3/•
23 Bust level 7 1/4 7 318 7% 7 5,.\
X .90 11 % 7'1l!
11 7/8 12 12 2!\ 12 1h
 APPEND I X :
COSTING SHEETS
463
S SIZES STABLE KNITS REDUCTIONS
pt.lJ ent smaller 1n crossw1se d1r~ct1on without any reductions m len
zerO perc measurements when draft1ng slopers for fabncs that stretch frgthw1se direction.
v e these asurements exactly as recorded w1thout any reductions om 0% to 25%.
~~-
5
Multiply Your Across .

---
-----
Measurements By 1X 2X
3X
4X
16 20 sx
24
X 1 41 28 32
45
1 sus! X 1 33 49 53
37 41 57
WaiSt X 1 44 48 45
2 52 49
3 HiP No reduc tion 11 'Ia 15% 56
crotch depth 195;. 60
4 No reduction 24 24 'I• 23 518 27'1•
Waist to knee No reduction 24 ';, 24 314
5 39 % 39 71a 40 1/a 25
wa1st to ankle X 1 9% 40'1.
6 10 'Ia 10% 1 40%
7
p.nkle X 1 18 11a 18 31a t8sl,
11 /e 11~/e
Knee X 1 2 31• 3 1/4 18 718 19 1/e
8 Front crotch 3 3/4 4 1/4
9 X 1 3% 4 4 3/4
sack crotch 4'1a 4'18
X 1 1 1 'I• 5
10
crotch angle 3
t 'la 2 2 1/4
11 No reduction 17 15 1• 1
Nape to waist 16 1• 16314 n't•
12 No reduction 2 314 1
3 1• 3 3/4 1
Back neck 4 /4 43/.1
13 X 1 1 1 31a 1 31a 131a
sack neck nse 5 112 1112
14 No reduction s'le s'l• 571a 6
Shoulder length 3
8 1a 8% 7 1
15 X 1 8 1a 9 18 9318
Across back 1
32 1a 32 31a
16 No reduction 32 % 32 718 33 118
Sleeve length 1 112 3
17 X 1 1 1• 2 2 1/4 2 112
Shoulder p1tch 3
14 112 15 114
18 X 1 13 /4 16 1631•
19 B1cep X 1 6 '1• 7 'lz 8'1• 9 9 3/4
17 112 19 3/4
Wnst 1
20 X 1 16'1. 18 1• 19
1 1
Neck 7 314 83/ 4

=
21 X 1 8 8 1• 8 12
7
22 Bust span
No reduction 11 7/a
3
12 1a 12 1a 13'1s 13 718
23 Bust level

.....
=
PLUS SIZES MODERATE REDUCTIONS

............
Two percent smaller in c rosswise d irection without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements w hen d rafting slopers for fabrics that stretc h from 25% to 50%.
Multiply your across measurements by .98, 2% smaller, exc ept for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-

lize the seam and prevent it from stretching.

M u ltip ly Your A c r oss 4X sx

3X

.......
1X 2X
M e a surem e nts By 28 32
20 24
16 7
55 1•
48 52
44 'Ia 48
~ Bust X .98
40 'Ia
32 '1s
1
36 1•
1
40 1a
44 'Ia
7
54 1e
58 31•
X .98 51 27're
Waist 1 47 23're
43 /a 19% 25
Hip X .98 15% 1 24 31•

...............
11 % 24 /2 3 40're
4 Crotch depth No reduction
24 24
7
'I• 40 'Ia
40 1• 11 31•
5 Waist to knee No reduction 39 1a 11 t 8 31•
No reduction 39% tO% 1
t8 12
6 Waist to ankle 10 1 4'18
9 '1s 18 1• 4 'Ia
7 Ankle X .98 3 18 5
17 1• 1 3% 4're
8 Knee X .98 3 3 1a 1 2 'I•
2 1• 4 1• 2 1
9 Front crotch X .98 4 17 1•
3% t 'le 3
10 Back crotch X .98 1 'I• 1 16 1• 431•
11 Crotch angle x .98
1 3
15 1•
16 1•
3 31•
4 'I• t 112
12 17 t 31a 6
Nape to waist No reduction 3 'I• 3
2 3/ 4 1 1• 5711•
13 1 31a 9'18

.....
..............
14
Back neck No reduction
1 s'l•
7
9 1• 33 '18
Back neck rise X .98 1 5% 6 1a 7 1
32 18 2 12
15 Shoulder length No reduction
5 12 6 51a 32 % 1
16 8 '1s 3 2 1• 16318
Across back X .98 1 32 1a 2 tS're
17 32 1a 3 9'1>
Sleeve length No reduction 1 /• 15 8'/a
1 'h t9'rs
18 14 'Is 8 t8 '18
Shoulder pitch X .98 1
3 8'.18
19 13 12 7 1a 17'/a 5
Bicep X .96 8' /a 13 /a
20 s% 17 'Ia 8
1
Wrist X .98 3 13 /a
21 16 / a 7 7/a 5
Neck X .98 12 /a
22 7 '1s 1
Bust span X .98 12 /a
23 11 'Ia
Bust level No reduction

~
~
 464 APPENDIX: COSTING SHEETS

PLUS SIZES STRETCHY REDUCTIONS

sm~~ents when drafting slopers for fabncs that stretch from 50% to 75l-6,;,ent, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-
r '" crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direc~ ion .
ij'reehpercent
se t ese
Multiply across measurements by .97
measur
your . . 3% smaller· except for the shoulde r m easure
hze the seam and prevent it from stretching.

Multiply Your Across

Measurement s By 1X 2X 3X 4X sx
16 20 24 28 32
1 Bust X .97 39 3/4 43 % 47 112 51 % ss '; ,
2 Waist X .97 32 35 7/a 39 3/4 43 % 47 112
3 Hip X .97 42% 46 112 50 112 54 113 sa•;,
4 Crotch depth No reduction 11 % 15 % 19% 23 % 27 %
5 Waist to knee No reduction 24 24 1/4 24 112 24 %
7 25
6 Waist to ankle No reduction 39% 39 /a 40 1/a 40 %
7 Ankle 40 %
X .97 93/a 9 7/a 10 1/4 10 3/4 11 1/4
a Knee X .97 17% 17 7/a 1a 1a 1/4 1a 112
9 Front crotch X .97 3 1/a
10
2% 3% 4 1/a 4%
Back crotch X .97 3 112 7
3 /a 4 1/ 4 4 112 4 7/a
11 Crotch angle X .97 1
12 1 '/• 1% 2 2 1/4
Nape to waist
13
No reduction 17 15 % 16 1/4 16 3/4 17 1/4
Back neck No reduction 2 3/4 3 1/4 3 3/4 4 1/4
14 Back neck nse 4 3/ 4
15
X .97 1 1 3/a 1 3/a 1 3/a 1
1 12
Shoulder length No reduction 5 112 s 3;, 7
16 s% 5 /8 6
Across back .97
17 Sleeve length
X a% a% a7!a 9 1/a 9%
1a
No reduction 32 1/a 32 3/a 32 % 32 7/8 33 1/a
Shoulder p1tch X .97 1 112
19 Bicep 1% 2 2 1/ 4 2 112
X .97 13 3/a 14 14 3/4 15 112
20 Wrist 16 1/ 4
X .97 6 112 1
7 /4 a a 3/4
21 Neck .97 16 1/4 9 112
17 3/4
X 17
22 Bust span 1a% 19 1/a
7 3/4
X .97 1
23 Bust level 7 /2 a a•;,
No reduction 11 112 12 12 112
a 'l2
13 13 112

PLUS SIZES SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS

Five percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%.
Multiply
lize your and
the seam across measurements
prevent by .95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-
it from stretching.

Multiply Your Across

.
Measurements By

...
1X 2X 3X 4X sx
2 6
1 Bust 10 14 18
2 X .95
Waist
X .95
39 42 3/4 1
46 12
3 Hip 31% 35 1/a so% 54'-s
4 X .95 41 3/4 39 42 % 4

•
Crotch depth 45% 46 ·11
5 Waist to knee No reduction 11% 49 % 1
53 / 4
15% 57
6 No reduction 24 19% 23% 5
Waist to ankle 24 1/4 27 18
24 112 24 3/4

........
7 No reduction
Ankle
X .95
39 % 39 7/a 40 1/a
25
a
9
Knee
Front crotch X .95
9 1/a
17 1/4
9% 10
40 %
10 %
40 5·8 till
10 X .95 17 112 17 3/4
11
Back crotch 2% 18 18 118
11 X .95 3 3%
Crotch angle 3 112 3 3/4 4 4 '.~
12 X .95 4 1/a
Nape to waist
No reduction
1 1 1/4 4% 4 3; .
13 1 112

...
Back neck 17 15 3/4 1 7.Je
14 No reduction 16 1/4 2''"
Back neck rise 2% 3 1/4 16 3/4 17'.
15 Shoulder length X .95
1 3 3/4 4'.-. 4 3,.
16 Across back No reduction 1%
5 112 1% 1% 1' ~
17 X .95 s%
1a
Sleeve length 8 3/a a%
s3;. 7
5 -8 6
No reduction
19
Shoulder pitch 32 1/a 32%
8 7/8
9',a 93>&
Bicep X .95
20 Wrist X .95
1 112 1 3;,
32 % 32 7'8 33 '~
13 2 2 1,11
21 X .95 13 3; , 23/8
22
Neck
6 3/a 1 14 112 15',~
Bust span X .95 7 /e 16
16 7''8
23 Bust level X .95 16% 8 '1!! 9 11•
No reduction 7 3/a 17 '/8 18 18 3/•
7% 7 718
11 ';. 3 8 8 '-'
11 /• 12 ';. 12 31• 13 1, .
 APPENDIX:
COSTING SHEETS
465
SIZES RIB REDUCTIONS
pLUS
- Uer 10 crossw1se direction w 1thout any reduct 1ons In len th
,.f', percent sm:Urements when draft1ng slopers for fabncs that stretch ~OO~se direction.
list these m,e;cross measurements by .90. 10% smaller, except for the shouldand over.
~·~.~lt•P'~ )'OU am and prevent 11 from stretch1ng. er measurement. since th
tabth:e these e final garment w 11
5 Multiply Your Across ' have twttl tape to
Measurements By 1X
2X
3X

-===
2 4X
6
10 sx
".90 36'/s 14
sus! 40 1'2 18
" .90 29 3;, 1 44 1le
Warst 33 1. 47 3,,.
X .90 39 5/s 36 711! 51 1.'4
H1p 43 1/ .. 40 11:!
No reduct1on 11 51s 463;. 44 1 ~&
Crotch depth 15 511! 50 3/s
No reduction 19 5/s
'
5
wa 1st to knee
wa1st to ankle
No reduction
24
39%
24 1/ •
39 7/s
24 1h 23'1.
24 3tt
54
27 5/a
6 X 90 8 5/s 1 40 1/a 3 25
7 p.nkte 9 /s 40 -'8
Knee
X .90 16 3/s 16 1h
9% 10
40\'8
8 X .90 2 112 16 3;, 10 \"1
Front crotch 3 17
9
sack crotch
X 90 3 114 3%
3'1'8 7
3 1o 17 ''•
1
10 X .90 1 3 '1'8 4 .'. t
Crotch angle /a 1 t;. 4';. 4 1h
11 No reduct1on 1 'h 1 3/~
12 Nape to wa•st 17 15 3/4 16 1/4 2
Back neck No reduction 2'1. 3 1/• 163;, 17 1l•
13 X .90 3 3/4 4'; . .
Back neck rrse 1 1% 43;.
14 No reduct•on 1 13/e 1'1e
Shoulder length 5 /2 5% 5';, 1'7
15 5 7/e
!6 Across back X .90 a'Is s% 8 7/s 1 6
Sleeve length No reduct1on 32 1/s 32 % 9 /e 9 3/a
17 32% 32 7/e
Shoulder p1tch X .90 1 3/s 33 1111
18 1% 1 7/s 2 2'/.t
B1cep X .90 12% 13 13 3/4
19 14% 15
20 Wnst X .90 6 6 3/4 7'1'8 8 8 3/4
21 Neck X .90 15 15 3/4 16 3/s
X .90 1 17'1'8 17 3/4
22 Bust span 7 7 /• 7% 7% 7 1/e
23 Bust jevel No reduct1on 10 3/4 11 1/s 11 % 12 12 11:!

PLUS SIZES FOUR-WAY REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller 1n crossw1se direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when draftlng slopers lor labrics thai stretch 100% in b oth directions.
Mutt1pty your across measurements by .90, 10% smaller, in both direclions.

---
...........
Multiply Your Across

..,. 2X 3X 4X 5X
Measurements By 1X
10 14 18
2 6
7 3 1 1
42 /• 44 1111
1 Bust 36 /s 38 /• 40 12 1
2
X .90 1 33 1/4 35 1/s 36 1•
Waist X .90 29'1. 31 12 46%
3 Hip 41 'Is 43 1/4 45
4
X .90 39%
14 7/e 16 3/4 18'18
1
Crotch dep1h X .90 11 13 1 23 /•
23 /8
38 1/a

.....
5 23
Wa1s1 to knee X.90 22 3/4 23 7 38

.............
6 3 37 /e
wa,st to ankle X .90 37% 37 /• 9'1:> 9'18
7 Ankle s% a'l• 9'1'8
1 16'1s t6 3/•
X.90 16 h
8 Knee X.90
3
16 /s 16'1s 3 1/s 3'111
9 Front crotch 1
2 /2 2 3/ 4 3
4 1/s 4'1a
10 X .90 4 1'111
Back crotch 3 '1• 1 112
11 X .90 3%
1 1/s 1 1/• 1
1
15 h
Crotch angle 1 15 /•
X .90 3 3/•

....
12 1 14 3/• 15 1
Nape to waist 16 /o 1 3 12
13 X .90 3 /• 1'1s
Back neck 3 3 1'1s
2 /• s'l•

............
No reduc tion 1'!'8
14
Back neck rise No reduc tion 1 1%
s'ls s'l• 8 /a1
15
Shoulder length 1 s'ls 8 3/•
16 No redu c tion 5 12 1 a% 1
32 12
32 '111
17
Across back
No reduction a'Is 8 12
1 32 '1'8 2
2
Sleeve length
No reduction
1
32 / 8 32 /• 3
1 /• 13 3/4
18 1'1s 13'1'8
Shoulder pitch 1 112 7'111

...
19 No reduction 3 13
Bicep 12 /•
s'1l•
7 t8 1/•
20 Wrist X .90 12 '1s
6% 17 118 7 3/1
21 X .90 6 1 17 12 7'1'8 1
Neck 17 /8 1 12 /4
22 No re d uction 16'1< 7 /• 12
Bust span 7 11 3/4
23 X .90 7 1
Bust level 11 12
X .90 11 1/4

--
~
 466 APPENDIX: COSTING SHEETS

Half Sizes
HALF SIZES STABLE KNITS REDUCTIONS
. reductions in lengthwise d~rection.
Ten percent smaller In crosswise direction w•tho~t a;ybrics that stretch from 0% to 25% .
Use these measurements when drafting slopers or a
Use your measurements as recorded without any reducuons.
Extra
Multiply Your Across Ex tra Large Large
Small Medium
Measurements By Small
18 112 22 1/2 26 112 30 112
14 112
49 53 57
41 45
X 1 40 112 44 112 48 112
1 Bust
1 32 112 36 112
2 Waist X
48 52 56 60
1 44 23 1/a 27 1/a
3 Htp X
1
11 /a 15 1/a 19 1/a
4 Crotch depth No reduc tion
22% 22 7/a 23 1/a 23 3/a
No reduc tion 22'1s 38 1/ •
5 Waist to knee
37 1/4 37 112 37 3/4 38
6 Wa1st to ankle No red uction 11 1/a 11 'Ia
1 9% 10 1/a 10%
7 Ankle X
17 1/4 17 112 17 3/• 18 18 1/•
8 Knee X 1 4 1/ 4 4 3/ •
X 1 2 3/4 3 1/4 3 '1.
9 Front crotch 4 'ts 4% 5
1 3% 4
10 Back crotch X
1 1/4 1% 2 2 1/ 4
X 1 1'ts
11 Crotch angle 16 112 17 17 112
12 Nape to waist No reduction 15 112 16
2'1< 3 1/4 3 3/4 4 1/4 4'1.
13 Back neck No reduction
1 1 3/a 1 'ts 1 3/a 1 112
14 Back neck rise X 1
No reduction 5 112 5% 5 3/ • 5 7/a 6
15 Shoulder length 9 1/a
Across back X 1 8 'ts 8% 8 7/a 9 'te
16
17 Sleeve length No reduction 22 '/. 22 112 22 3/ 4 23 23 '(.
X 1 1'ts 1% 2 2 1/a 2 '1s
18 Shoulder pttch
19 Bicep X1 13'1. 14 112 15 1/ 4 16 16 3/ •
20 Wrist X1 s't. 7 112 8 1/ • 9 9 3/ •
21 Neck X1 16 3/ 4
1
17 12 18 1/ 4 19 19 3/ •
22 Bust span X1 7 3/ 4 8
1
8 1• 8 1/2 3
8 /•
23 Bust level No reduction 11 'Ia 7
11 /a 12 'ts
7
12 /s 13 3/s

HALF SIZES MODERATE REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%.
Multiply your across measurements by .98 , 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-
lize the seam and prevent it from stretching.

Multiply Your Across Extra Extra

Measurements By Small Small Medium Large Large
14 112 1
18 12 22 112 26 112 30 1h
1 Bust 1
55 7 s
X .98 1
40 /s 44 /a 48 52
2 Waist X .98 31 7/a 35 3/4 39 % 43% 47 11'2
3 Hip X .98 43 1/s
4
47 51 54 7/s 583 •
Crotch depth No reduction 11 1/a 15 1/s
5 19 'Is 23 1/s 27 11\l
Waist to knee No reduction
6 Waist to ankle
22% 22 % 22% 1
23 /s 23 318
No reduction 37 1/ 4 37 112 37 3/4 38 38 •
1
7 Ankle X .98 9 3/a 10 10% 11 113,.
8 Knee X .98
9
17 17 1/s 17% 17% 17 7'8
Front crotch X .98 2 3/4 3 1/s 3% 4 '!s 4 5•a
10 Back crotch X .98
11 3% 4 4 1/4 4% 5
Crotch angle X .98 3
12 Nape to waist
1 /s 1 1/4 1
1 h 17a 2 1 /4
13
No reduction 15 112 16 16 112 17 17 1/2
Back neck No reduction 2 3/4 3 1/4 3 3/ 4
14 Back neck rise X .98 4 1/4 4 3•
15 Shoulder length 1 1% 1% 1 s,.a
No reduction 1 1'1:1
16 Across back 5 12 s% s% 7
X .98 5 s 6
17 Sleeve length No reduction
8% a% 8 7/s 9''8 93-'8
18 22 1/4 22 112
Shoulder pitch
X .98 22% 23 23 1/ •
19 Bleep 1% 1% 1 7/s 23.'11
X .98 1 1
2'/s
20 13 12
Wrist
X .98
14 / • 15 15 518 16 3.'11
21 Neck 6% 73/s 7
X .98 8 8 18 9 '-'2
22 16 3/s 1
Bust span
X .98
17 /s 17 718 18 5/s 19 3-11
?3 Busllevel 7% 7 7/ s 8 8 318 8 5)&
No reduction 1
11 /a 11 5ta 1
12 18 12 51a 13 11a
 ---
APPENDIX ·
COST IN G SHE
ETS 467
~ zeS STRETCHY~RR"EED~U~C;T:;;IO~N~S------­
.
1
HALf :s t .,..,aile' n croSS"- tSe d1rect1on w•thout any reduct 0 --
~ ·~:·:;...~urenleots when draft.ng slopers for fabncs that ~t~=t~nhl~r:Qlhw<se d"ecloon
t ..,. tht"- ~across measurements by 97 3% smaller. except forth h m SO% to 75%
~·M"' '~
fi.""# :~ ~
nd prevent ot from stretchong e s Oulder measurement, S•nce the ~nal gar -
;:----- Multiply Your Across E xtra mf!t"lt '-"1\l hs"e t¥r!ll
Measurements By Small - - tape to Mal>!
----------------=============-~~----~~~----~S~m
~a~l~~----~~~r
Medium Ex.tro

---------------:~----~~--~~~~~=-
Large
-
1
14 12 18 1
'2 Large
22 1'2
X .97 39 ' '2.6' 2
43 ~ 1 30 1 ~
X .97 31 "1 47 •
t sust 35 • 51 ...
wa1st X .97 42 % 46 1 ., 39'"' 1 55 •
2 No reduct1on 11 118 50 1 7 43
54.,
" 4)
3 H•P 15 I 8
crotch depth 22 318 19 1 "8 ~6'.
4 No reduct1on 22'1• 1 23 1 8
Waost to knee 1 22 is 27 1 ..
No reduction 37 /4 37' 23 1 ..
65 wa,st to ankle 37 3/4 23'•
X 97 9';. 9'11 38 38 1 4
10 1/4
7
Ankle X 97 16 3/4 17
lQl,4
11' ~
8 Knee X .97 2% 1
3 's
17'. 4
n' , l7J.
3'to 4 ...
9
Front crotch X .97 3'~ 3 ''e •';,
10
sack crotch X .97 1 3/e ,,,... 4''
1'1>
4 .,.,
,.,.. 4 .....

11
crotch angle No reduct1on 15 112 16 16 11> 17
2'.
Nape to waost No reduct1on 2 31• 3';.. 17'
12
13 sack neck
sack neck rose
' .97 1 1'/s
33/•
1 3/8 ,...4 114 4'.
1'
14 ShOulder length
No reduct1on 5'·'2
8%
5 ';•
8~18
53/•
8 7/8
s'-. 6
15
A<; ross back
X .97
22 1/4 22 112 22 3;,
9'• g' ..
16 No reduct1on 23 23 4
1
Sleeve length 1 31s 1 5 /s 1 1/s
17
Shoulder p1tch
x.97 2'"' 2 111
18 97 13 3/s 14 14 3/4 1
15 }> 16 1 4
1 1
19 B•cep 97 6 12 7 /4 8 8 314 9'}>
3
20 Wnst .97
1
16 1• 17 17 /4 18 1h 19 111
21 Neck X .97
1
7 12 7 31• 8 s''• a' ~
22 Bust span No reduct1on 11 11 112 12 12 112 13
23 Bust level

HALF SIZES SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS

FIVe percent smaller 1n crossw1se d~rectlon w1thout any reductions'" lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabncs that stretch from 75% to 100%.
Multiply your across measurements by .95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement. since the final garment w•ll have twill tape to stabl
hze the seam and prevent 11 from stretching. Extra
Extra Large Large
Multiply Your Across Medium
Small Small
Measurements By 26 112 30 112
1B 12
1 22 112
14 112 1 54 1/J
46 12
1 50 /a
3 46
39 42 1• 1 42 11•
I Bust X .95 34 51s 38 12 1 57
7 53 1•
30 1s 49 3/a 27 1/a
2 Wa1st X .95 3 45 51s 1 23 118 23 1/a
X .95 41 1• 19 ls 1
3 H1p 11 11s 15 'Is 23 /a 38 1/•
22 718
4 Crotch depth No reduction
22% 22 511• 3
37 1•
38
5 11
5 Watst to knee No reduct1on 1 37 12 10 /8 17 31•
37 1• 10 17
6 Wa1st to ankle No reduction 1
9 1s
9% 16 71s 4 1h
7 Ankle X .95 16% 4 43/•
8 Knee X .95
16%
3
3% 4 31s 21'I•
2% 3 4 11s 171s
9 Front crotch X .95 1 3 1• 1 1/2 17 h
10 3 12 1 17 41/•
Back crotch X .95 1 1 1• 16 112 1
11 1 1• 4 1• 1'12
Crotch angle X .95 1
15 12
16
1 3 3/• 1 3h 6
12 No reduction 3 /•
Nape to waist
2 31• 1'1s 5 7/s 9 3/a
13 No reduction 1 '1s s 31•
14
Back neck
Back neck rise X .95
1 s% 6 731•
9 '/a 23 'I•
1
5 12 23 2 11•
15 Shoulder length No reduction 8 51s 22 1• 2 16
16 8 '1s 22 12
1
1 7/s 1
Across back X .95 1 15 1• 9'1•
17 22 1• 8 1h
Sleeve length No reduction 1 '1s 14 '12 183/•
18 1 '1s 3
13 /• 7 11s 8 3/a
Shoulder pitch X .95 1
18
19 Btcep 13 7 1• 17 318 8 12 3/•
X .95
20 Wnst s'ls 5
16 1• 7 7/s 12 1•
1
X .95
21 Neck X .95
16 7 5/s 3
11 1•
22 7'1s 1
Bust span 11 1•
X .95
23 10 31•
Bust level No reduction
 Jll' f'f.: N OIX COS T ING S HEETS
---------
HAI\~L~F~S~I~Z~E~S~R~IB~R~E~D~U~C~T~IO~N~S~:;;;;-;;;~;;;;int.~E·~df.r~e~ct,on.
- reduct•ons m lengthwise ' over. . the final garment will have twill tape to
1en oerc~nt smaJ•er '" crossw•se dtrect•on w•thout any that stretch 10 0% and asurement. s1nce
Use these measurements when draftmg slopers for fabncs ept for the shoulder me
M ua,p4y your across measurements by .90. 10% smaller. exc Extra
sta b•ltze the seam and prevent •t from stretch•ng Medium Large l arge
Extra 11
Mult ip ly Your Across Small sma 26'12 30 'f

1
40 ·'>
1 Bust ' .90 32 7/s
2 Watst )( 90 4 3 11•
3 H1p X 90 15 1/s
4 Crotch depth No reduct•on 22518
5 Watst to knee No reduct•on 37 1/ 2
6 Wa1st to ankle No reduct1on 9 1/a
7 An~le ' 90 15 3 14
8 Knee "' 90 3
9 Front crotch "' 90 3 5/a
10 Back crotch ".90 1 '/7
11 Crotch angle x.90
16
12 Nape to wa1st No reduct•on
3 1/ •
13 Back neck No reduCtiOn
1%
14 Back neck nse X .90
15 Shoulder length No reduct1on 5%
16 Across back 8%
" .90
17 Sleeve length No reduct1on 22 112
18 Shoulder p1tCI' X .90 1 112
19 B1cep ".90 13
20 Wnst < .90 6 3/4
21 Neck ' .90 15 3/4
22 Bust span 7 1/4
" 90
23 Bust level No reduct1on 10 3/4

HALF SIZES FOUR-WAY REDUCTI ONS

Ten percent smaller 1n crossw1se d~rec110n and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when draftmg slopers tor fabncs that stretch 100% in both directions.
Multiply your measurements by 90. 10% smaller, m both d~rect1ons.
Multiply Your Across Extra Extra
Measurements By Small Small Medium Large
Large
14 1/2 18 112 22 112 26 112 30'h
1 Bust X 90 36 7/s 38 3/ 4
2 40 112 42 1/ 4 44 1/s
Wa1st X 90 29 1/4 31 32 7/ a
3 H1p X .90 34% 36 112
39 % 41 %
4 Crotch depth X .90 10%
43 % 45 46 3/ 4
5 Wa1st to knee
12 112 14% 16 1/4 18 1/a
X .90 21 1/ 4 21 %
6 Waist to ankle X 90 35% 21 112 21% 21 3/4
35 112
7 Ankle X .90 8% 35% 35 3/4 35 7/s
8 '1s 9 1/s
8 Knee X .90 15 112 15% 9 3/a 9%
9 Front crotch X .90 2 112 15% 15 7/a 16
10 2 3/4 3
Back crotch X .90 3% 3 7/a 3 1/7 3%
11 Crotch angle X .90 1% 4 4 1/s 4%
12 1 1 1/4
Nape to waist X .90 14 3/4 15 1% 1%
13 Back neck No reduction 23/• 15 1/4 15 112 15%
14 Back neck rise No reduction 3
1 3'1. 3 112 3%
15 Shoulder length 1% 1 3/a
No reduction 5 112 5% 1% 1%
16 Across back No reduction 8 3/s 5% 5 3/•
17 Sleeve length No reduction 22 1/ 4
B'h 8%
5% 7
18 Shoulder pitch 22 3/a 8 3/4 8 18
No reduction 1% 22 112 22 3/•
19 Bicep X .90 1 112 22%
12% 12 3/4 1% 1% 2
20 Wrist X .90
21 Neck
6 6%
13 13% 13 3/•
No reduction 16 3/4 17 '1s 6 3/4 7 7%
22 Busl span X .90 7 17 112
23 Bust level 7 17 7/a 18 11•
X .90 10 3/• 11 7 1/4 7'1.1 7'1e
11 1/• 11 112 11 3/•
 APPENDIX :
COSTING SHEETS
469

·s REGULAR SIZE STABLE KNITS REDUCTIONS

~EN lrE""r '" crossw•se d•rect•on w1thout any reduct1ons 1n lengthw1se d •rect•on
~ _ rP"l"f'"'l 5.,.,a rnents \\hen draft•ng slopers for fabncs that stretch from 0% to 25% ·
" .t,tt~::# ~svft" ts exactly as recorded. w•thout any reduct•ons

~~ ~~su~men~~~~~~~~~~~~----~~~------~~~----------------------------------
~ Multiply Your Across Extra

--=====~M~ea~s~u=r=e=m=e=n=t=s=B=y~====~S~m~a~I~I======~S~m~a~I~I------~M~e~d~i~u~
~----~~!_----~~~
Large Extra

~ ---------------~:-----------~~3~2~------~~3f6
: ~ ~~ ~~
:_________~~-----===~========~La~r~g~e
40 4:4 48
40

-----
; wa•st 1 32 36 34 38 48
3 CHr,potch dePth No reductiOn 209, '> 9, • 4~, '> 44 :~
' Wa,s110 knee No reduction 36 203,, 21 9'·•
1 10
5 No reduct1on 36' 21 ,
6 Wa•s110ankle X 1 8 /2 37 37'h 21' ">
fi.N'e > 1 13'Aa 14 14 'h 15 38 1
7 14 11e 14 5/e 15 7
8 =crotch > 1 2 2';, 2'h t 5"a 15''•

"
~~ eac•~r~~~e
Grote
:~
Noreduct1on
f'•
18 /a
1
~'Ia
18 518
~~~!
t9 'la
;~;
13
·"'
~
t '?
19510
12 Nape to wa,st No reduction 21 1• 2 'I• 2 318 20' e
'3 Sac" necre x 1 3,4 3/4 7l... 2Jte 23-e
t•
15
Bae" neck nse
Snoulde' ength
N d
0 re, ~CtiOn
5 7/e
8 :
,
·~ 6318
1':1 ";~
s''• s'~
"

,Across baC~h
9
16 No reduct1on 23 23 'I• 2; 'l2 'h tO
:7 Stee>e 'eng h x 1 1 sla 131• 131• 2331• 24
18 Sh<JOide'P'tC X1 10 112 11 114 12 ~~~: t 'l•
19 ~cei ~.
1 6 'I• 7 731• 8 'h 13 '»
~ N:k X1
1
13 12
3
13 14
3
14 14 'I• ~~ :~
2
2 Chest span x 1 51 5 31a 6 s'la 7
Chesllevel No reductton 9 12 9 14 10 10 'I• 10 1,.,
23

MEN'S REGULAR SIZE MODERATE REDUCTIONS

Two percent sma ler •n crosswtse d~rectton wtthout any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when draft.ng slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%.
Mult•ply your across measurements by .98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-
liZe the seam and preven11t from stretchtng .
Extra
Multiply Your Across Extra Large
Small Medium Large
Measurements By Sma ll
48
32 36 40 44
47
Chest x .98 31 3;a 35 'I• 39 43 'Ia 'I• 41 11a
37 ~I•
3
Watst x .
98
,
25 12 29 3;a 33 1a
43 47
Htp x .98 31 % 35 1•1
39 9 'I• 10 j•
4 Crotch depth No reductton 9 9 9 '12 'I• 21 /'
21112
5
6
~atst to knee No reduction 1
20 12
3
20 14 2
1
7 37 / ' 38
1
15 1•
atst 10 ankle
~~~~ ~:~: ~:~;~
No reduction 36 36 '12 3 /'
7 t 5'1s
8 X .98 8
13 318
13
13
1;; 3
9 Front crotch X .98 " '; 2314 4
10 Back crotch X .98 2 2 '1:'I• 3% ; 1
I /2
11 Crotch angle x .98 2% 31 ''e 1 1% 'I• 20 11a
12 Nape to waist x .98 11 " 19 'Ia 19% 2%
13 Backneck Noreduction 18 1e 18~1e 2% 2%3 31•
14 B k
ac neck rise
No reduction
3
1
2 1• 2 3I•
14
3
I• s% /4 s'l•
IS 10
Shoulder length
16 Across back
X .98 1I• 6'11'e 6% 9' "
24

2~ :js;.:
5 1a 9
2~~:
No reduction '"
17 13/•
Sleeve length X .98 8 23 '12 1
18 13 1•
19 ~~~~der pitch No r:d~~tion 2~% 1 12
8 1 ~ ~;
'l2 9
1
20 Wrtst x .98 10 11• 11 7 s/8 % 14 1•
21 Neck X 98 6 'Is 6 111a 133'• 14 631•
1
22 Chest span . 1 13 12 3I ' 6'1• 10 /•
x .98 13 I• 5 /•
3
------------~~x~-~9~8~~--------j4~
9 ~!·~--------J5~'f.~•
9 '12________je~3~
~·~----_:~----------
23 10

Chest level No reduction /4 1

 i4T0 Al'f'ENDIX: COSTING SHEETS

MEN'S REGULAR SIZE STRETCHY REDUCTIONS

t an reduct•ons '" lengthwise d•recuon. . .
Three percent smaller'" crossw•se dtrection w•thou f b~cs that stretch from 50% to 75%. . ce the final garment wtll have twill tape to stabi-
Use these measurements when draft•ng s/oper~~~l/:r. except for the shoulder measurement, Sin
Mulf•P'>' your across measurements by _97. 3%
l•ze the seam and prevent 11 from stretchmg. E xtra
Multiply Your Across Extra Small Medium Large Large
Measurements By Small 44 48
36 40
32
38 3 /4 46 112
35 36 71s
1 Chest X .97 31
33 40 31•
25 2/ o 29
2 Watst X .97
38 314 42% 46 112
X .97 31 35 9314 10
3 Hrp 9 1/ 4 9 1/z
4 Crotch depth No reduct1on 9
1 20 3 / 4 21 21 'I• 21 112
5 Warst to knee No reductron 20 37 112 38
36 36 112 37
6 Wa1st to ankle No reduct1on
14 14 112 15
7 ~Js 13 %
7 Ankle ' .97
13 3/4 14 11e 14% 15 11s
8 Knee X .97 13 114
2 1/a 2% 2% 3
X .97 2 1
9 Front crotch
2 51s 3 3 1•
1 3 12 3 71s
X 97
10 Back crotch
1 1
1
1• 1 31s 1 112
11 Crotch angle )( .97 1
18 1/e 18% 19 1s 1 19 % 20 11s
12 Nape to wa1st No reductton
2 1/4 2 114 2 31s 2 31s 2%
13 Back neck No reduction
314 >;. 314
14 Back neck nse X .97 J;, 314
15 Shoulder length No reductiOn 5 71s 1
6 18 6% 6% 6 71s
1
16 Across back X 97 8 8 112 9
1
9 12
3
10
17 Sleeve length No reduct1on 23
1
23 1• 23 12 23 1• 24
18 Shoulder prtch X.97 1% 1% 1% 1 314 1 314
19 Brcep X.97 10 11e 11 11 % 12 31s 13
20 Wrrst .97 6 6 314 7 112 8 11• 9
21 Neck X 97 13 13% 13% 13 71s 14
1 1
22 Chest span X .97 4% 5 1• 5 31• 6 1• 631•
23 Chest level No reduction 9 1•
1
9 112 9% 10 10 11s

.
""
MEN'S REGULAR SIZE SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS
Five percent smaller 1n crossw1se d1rect1on without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when draft•ng slopers for fabrrcs that stretch lrom 75% to 100%.
Multiply your across measurements by .95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-
lrze the seam and prevent rt from stretchrng. i
Multiply Your Across Extra Extra
i
Measurements By Small Small Medium Large Large ii
32 36 40
1 Chest X .95 30 31s 1
44 48
i
2 Wa1st 34 1• 38 41 314 45%
X .95 24 314
3 Hip X .95 30%
1
28 12
'I•
32 114 1
36 1s 39 7;. ii
4 Crotch depth No reduct1on
34 38 41 >;. 45 %
9 114
5
6
Warst to knee No reduction
9
20 112 20 314
9 112 9% 10 I
Waist to ankle No reduction 36
21 21 ';. 21 112
36 112
7 Ankle X .95 7% 13 114
37
13 3/4
37 112 38 t
14 314

••
8 Knee 14 tl4
X .95 13
9 Front crotch X .95 13 % 13 71s 14 >;. 14%
1 71s 1
10 Back crotch X .95 1
2 1a 2 3/a 2% 2 71a
11 Crotch angle X .95
2 12 2 71a 3'1a 1 3
12 1 3 12 3 14
Nape to waist 1 1 '1. 1

••
13 No reduction 1
18 1a 1 13 1%
Back neck 18 % 19 'Ia
14 No reduction 1
2 1• 19% 20 'Ia
Back neck rise 2 tl4
15 X .95 314 3;,
2% 2 31a 2%
Shoulder length %
16 Across back
No reduction 5 71a 6tla
314 >;.
17 X .95 8 s% 6% s%
Sleeve length 8tl2
No reduction 9 9 tl2
18
19
Shoulder pitch
Bicep
X .95
23
1%
23tl4 23'12 23 3/4
10
24
I
1%
X .95 1% 1% 1 3/4
20
21
Wrist
Neck X .95
10
6
10 314
s%
11% 12 1/a 12 7111 I
22 X .95 7% 8 3/4
Chest span 12 7/a 13
8
23 Chest level X .95 13 t/4 13 tl2 3
4% 5 1/a 13 /•
No reduction s% 1
9 gt;4 1
s'AI 6 h
9 12 gJ;. 10
 APPENDIX :
COSTIN G SHEETs
471

~EN
·s REGULAR SIZE RIB REDUCTIONS
- crossw•se d~rectton wtthout any reducttons •n lengthwtse dtrection
-ce·,l smaller'" 1 when drafttng slopers for fabncs that stretch 100% and over
~-~., ~t"se mE'asureme~:surements by .90. 10% smaller, except for the shoulder measure me
l ~ t 1\ ,'()Lir across ~prevent rt from stretchmg.
------
nt. smce the fmal garment w II h

---
,u?fl('l. the seam an • ave twtll tape to
5tabrr ..e Multiply Your Across Extra

------=====M=e=a=s=u=r=e=m=e=n=t=s=B~y=======S=m~a=II========~S~m~~a~II ~M~e~d~iu~m~----~~~-------1~~
______
Large
Large Extra

~-------------:~------~-----~;-------;~---~~==~~
1 c~est
44
39'1.
48

wa,st 43 1; . -
2 34';• 37 3;.
39 5/s
3 ~;~tch depth 9'1•
43 1!.
WaJst to knee 10
21 1t.
waist to ankle 21 11>
37 112
38
Ankle 13 11> 14
8 Knee 13';,
Front crotch 1 14
9 2 12 2 3!..
sack crotch 3 1/4
10 3!)/8
Crotch angle 1 1/4
•1
Nape to wa1st 13/a
12 19'ta 20 1/e
!3 sack neck 2'1a 2'1a
14 sack neck nse
ShOulder length
'I• 'I•
15 6'1a 6 7/e
Across back 1
16 9 12 10
17 Slee'e ,ength 23 3/• 24
18 Shoulder p•tch 1% 1'/a
19 81cep 11 112 t2 11a
20 Wnst 7'1a
7
8 3/a
21 Neck 12 1a 13
22 Chest span 5'1• 6 1/4
1
23 Chest level 9 1• 9 112

MEN'S REGULAR SIZE FOUR-WAY REDUCTIONS

.........
Ten percent smaller 1n crossw1se d~reclion and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direc tion.
Use these measurements when draftmg slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions.
Mutt1pty your measurements by .90, 10% smaller, 1n both d~rect1ons.
Extra
Multiply Your Across E xtra
M e dium Large Large
Measurements By S m a ll Sma ll

40 44 48
32 36

...........
tiil!ll 1
2
Ches1
Wa1st
X .90 28 3/4 30%
1
32% 34 114
28%
36
30%
25 /4 27
tliiiJ' 3
4
H1p
Crotch depth
X .90
X .90
23%
3
28 1• 30 5/a 32%
3 9
1
34 1• 36
9
X.90
1
8 12 8% 8 1• 7 20
5 3 19 1•
6
Wa1st to knee
X .90
1
19 12 19% 19 1•
35 35 1/a
Wa1st to ankle 1 1
34 12 34% 7 13
7 Ankle X .90 34 /4 12 1a 1
1 12% 12% 13 1•
8 Knee X .90 7 1• 1 3 13 1
12 1•
~ 9 X .90 12 ';. 12 12 1 2 1•
2 1a

.....
Fronl crotch 2 3%
10
Back crotch X .90 1% 2
7
3 11a 1
11 2 1• 3 1 1 /•
X .90 2% 1 11a 1 1• 1

.....
Crotch angle 18 1•
12 X .90 1 1 3 18
Nape to waist 1 1 17 /• 2%
13 17 12 2'!1
Back neck X .90 17 1• 1
1
2 1•
'I•1 'I•

.....
14 1 2 /• 3
No reduction 2 1•
15 Back neck rise
No reduction 3;. 'I• 'I•
1 6 1•
6 1•
9
Shoulder length 6 /a
16 8 31•

.......-.....-
Across back No reduction 5 71a 6
1
1
8 /2
1
23 12
17 8 1• 1 23%
Sleeve length No reduction 8 23 1• 3 1'14
18 23 'Ia 3 1 1• 3
No reduction 23 10 1•
~ 19 Shoulder pitch 1 1• 1
10 12
1% 7
20
B1cep No reduction 1% 3 10 1/8 6'1s
Wnst X .90
1
9 12 9 1• 14
21 6'1< 7
Neck X .90 s% 6 13 1•
3 13 /•
1 5 3/a
22 5 18 1
Chest span No reduction
1
13 12 13%
5 9 12
23 3 9'/8
Chest level X .90 4% 4 /• 9'1•
1
9 /a
X .90 9

.....
~
 47~ t't't Nnl COSTI NG SHEETS

MEN 'S SHORT SIZE STABLE KNITS REDUCTIONS

-f'"-' ~,-cent smaller m crossw1se d~rect10n w1thout any reductions'" lengthwise dJ';~~on.
Use tl1ese measurements when draft1ng slopers for fabncs that stretch from 0% to ·
UsE' your measurements exactly as recorded w1thout any reductions
Extra
Multiply Your Across Extra Large Large
Small Medium
Measurements By Small
32 s 36S 40S 44 s 4a s

40 44 48
32 36
1 Chest "' 1 30 34 3a 42
2 Wa1st X 1 26 46 50
34 38 42
3 Hrp • 1 10 1/a 10% 10%
No reduct1on 9 '1'1 9 7/a
4 Crotch depth 7 22 1 /a 22 3/a 22% 22 7/a
No reduct10n 21 11! 40% 41 1/e
5 Wa1st to knee
39 1/a 39 '/a 40 1/a
6 Wa1st to ankle No reduct•on
14 3;a 14 'Ia 15 3/a 15 7/e
7 Ankle >< 1 s 'l'l 14 .,., 15 15 1/2 16
)( 1 14
8 Knee
2 3/e 2% 2 7/ a 3 ';•
)( 1 2 '1'1
9 Front crotch
3 ';• 3 112 3 7/a 4 1/e
)( 1 2 'Ill
10 Back crotch
1
1
1 /4 1% 1 112 1%
11 Crotch angle " 1 3
19 3/ 4 20 1/ 4 20 /• 21 ';,
12 Nape to warst No reduction 19 1/4
2 3/s 2 3/ s 2% 2 112 2 112
13 Back neck No reduct1on 7 1
14 Back neck rise X 1 'I• 3;, 'I• /s /a
6 6
1
/•
1
6 12 6 3/• 7
15 Shoulder length No reductton
X 1 8 1/• s 37/ • 9 1/4
3
9 /4 to ';,
16 Across back
No reduction 24 5/ s 24 / s 25 1/s 25% 25%
17 Sleeve length 1 7/s
1 1 314 1 3/ 4 1 7/s 2
18 Shoulder prtch X
13 112 14 1/ 4
Brcep X1 11 1/ 4 12 12 3/4
19 a'!. 9 112
20 Wrrst X1 6 112 7 'I• 8
1 14 3/4 15
21 Neck X1 14 14 1/ • 14 / 2
Chest span X1 5 6 6% 7 7%
22
23 Chest level No reductron 9 7/8 9 7/s 9 7/s 9 7/a 9 7/e

MEN'S SHORT SIZE MODERATE REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller m crosswtse d~rect1on Without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drattrng slopers tor fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%.
Multrply your across measurements by .9a, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-
lize the seam and prevent rt from stretchrng.

Multiply Your Across Extr a Extra

Measurements By Sma ll Sma ll M edium Large Large

32S 36 s 40 S 44S 48S

1 Chest X .9a 31 3/a 35 1/4 1
39 /• 43 /a
1
47
2 Warst X .98 25 112 29 3/a 33%
1
37 /4 41 1/a
3 Hrp X .98 33 % 37 1/ 4 41 1/a 45 49
4 Crotch depth No reductron 9% 7
9 /a 10 1/a 10% 10%
5 Warst to knee No reduction 21 7/a 1
22 /a 22% 22%
7
22 /a
6 Warst to ankle No reduction 39 1/a 39% 40 1/a 40 % 41 1/a
7 Ankle X .9a a';, 14 14% 15
1
15 12
a Knee X .9a 13'1. 14 2;e 14 3/4 15 1/< 15%
9 Front crotch X .9a 2 2 3/a 2% 2 7/a 3
10 Back crotch 2 3/4
X .9a 3 1/a 3% 3 3/4 4
11 Crotch angle X .98 1 1 1/a 1 112
1 '!. 1%
12 Nape to warst No reductron 1
19 /• 19 3/• 20 ';. 20 %
1
21 /•
13 Back neck No reductron 2% 2'1e 2 '1e 1
2 12 2 112
14 Back neck rise
15 Shoulder length
X .9a
No reductron
'I• 3;. 3;. 1;e 7
/a
6 6 1/4 1
6 12 6% 7
16 Across back X .9a a';, 1
17 Sleeve length
a% 9 1/4 9 '1. 10 /•
No reduction 24% 24% 1
25 %
1a Shoulder pitch 25 /a 25 %
X .9a 7
19 Bicep X .98
1% 1% t'!.
1
1% 1 /s
11 11 % 12 12 1
13 / • 14
20 Wrist
21 Neck
X .98 6 3/a 7 1/a 7 1/a a%
1
9 /•
X .98
22 Chest span 13'1. 14 14 1/ 4 14 1/2 14 3/•
23 Chest level
X .9a 4 3/4 1
5 /• s% 6 1/ 4 6 '/4
No reduct ion 9% 9% g'fe
9% 9%
 APPENDIX :
COSiiN G S HEEis
473
·s sHORT SIZE STRETCHY REDUCTIONS
MEN ller 1n crossw•se d~rection without any reduct•ons 1n length
1_,~trwse
use
pereent ~~:ements when draf11ng slopers for fabncs that stretch from ~~ 1direction.
me:cross measurements by 97, 3% smaller, except for the shoulder me~ 5%
7
"'"'lflPf) )'our d prevent It from stretchmg surement, smce the final
the seam an garment Will h
,:e Multiply Your Across E x tra avetw•lltoPe to stab,.
Measurements By Small
Small
Medium
32S Large Extra
36S Large
X .97
40 s 44 s
31 35
1 cnest X .97 25 1/4 38 3;, 48S
wa•sl X .97
29
33 42 518
2 33 7
36 /a 36 7;, 46'n
40 3;,
3
4
~~tch depth
No reduction
No reduction
9%
21 7/a
7
9 /a 1
10 /a
44'18 40 3/ ..
4B 1n
wa 1stlo knee 22 1/a 22% 10';.
5 Wa•stto ankle
No reduction 39 1/a 39% 22'1. 10'18
6 X .97 1
8 /a 40 1/a 22 718
14 40';,
7 Ankle X .97 13 5/a 14 3/a 41 118
14 15
Knee 14 112 15 318

...
8 X .97 2 1 t5
Front crotch 2 /4 2 112 15 1;,
9 X .97 2 3/4 23; ,
10
Back crotch
X .97 1
3
1 3 3/a 33;, 3
11
12
crotch angle
Nape to wa1st No reduction 1
19 /4
1 /a
19 3;,
1 ';,
20 1/4
t%
203;,
4
,.,.,
No reduction 2% 211/4
13 Back neck
X .97 3/4
2% 2 3/a 1
2 12 1
Back neck nse 3;, 3;, 2h

=
14 7
No reduction 6 1 /a '18
15 Shoulder length 6 /4 6 112 63;,
Across back X.97 a';, a3;, 9 ';, 7

...-....
16 No reduction 7 9'1• 10 1/•
Sleeve length 24% 24 /a 1
25 /a
17
Shoulder p1tch X .97 1 3/4 1 3/4 t%
25'1.
7 25'18
18 1 /a 1718
B1cep X .97 11 11% 12 3/a
19 13 13 718
X .97 6 ';, 7'1.
20 Wnst 7
7 8 112 g';.
21 Neck X .97 13% 13 /a 14 1
14 /• 14 112
22 Chest span X .97 4 3/4 3
5 14 6 3/4 ?'Ia
1 1 8'1a
23 Chest level No reduction 9 12 9 12 1
9 12 1
9 12 1
9 12

MEN'S SHORT SIZE SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS

Five percent smaller 1n crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direc tion.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100% .
Mullip/y your across measurements by .95, 5% smaller, except for t he shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabl·
lize the seam and prevent 1t from stretching.
Extra
Multiply Your Across Extra Large
Small Medium Large

..
Measurements By Small

32S 36S 40S 44 s 48S

3 45%
1 Chest 3 1 38 41 /• 7
X .95 30 1a 34 1• 1 39 18
2 Waist 1 1
32 1• 36 1a 1
X .95 24% 28 12 1 43 31• 47 12
3 Hip 1 1
36 1a 39 1a to%
4
X.95 32 1• 1 tO 'Is
Crotch depth No reduction 9% 9 71a 10 1a 22 7/e
5 Waist to knee 1 22% 22 % 1
21 'Ia 22 1a 41 /a
6 No reduction 1 40%
Waist to ankle 40 1a 15
7 Ankle No reduction 39 'Ia 39 % 1
14 1a
14%
3
1
15 /•
X .95 8 13'1s 1 14 1•
8 Knee 1 13'1< 14 1• 3
9 X .95 13 1• 1 2'1< 4
Front crotch 1 2 12
X .95 2 2 1• 3% 1
10 3% 1 12
Back crotch 3 1 1'1s 1
11 X .95 2% 1 1 1• 3 21 1•
Crotch angle
1 1 1a 1 20 1• 2 112
12 X .95 3 20 1•
Nape to waist 1
19 14 19 1• 2'/2 'le
13 No reduction 2 '1s 7
Back neck 3 2% 1a 7
14 No reduction 2 1a 31• 631• 1
Back neck rise 31• tO 1•
15 X .95 31• 1 6 1/2 931•
ts Shoulder length 6 1• 25%
Across back No reduction 6 9'/4 25%
17 1 831• 1 1'/e
X .95 8 1• 25 1a 131• 1
18 Sleeve length
24% 24 'Ia t31• 7
13 12
Shoulder pitch No reduction 3 t2 /8 9
19 1'1s 1 1• 12
1
1a 1
B•cep X .95 s% 14 1•
20 11 % 7 '18
Wrist X .95 10% 7 t4 s'l2
21 1 6 1a 3
Neck X .95 6 1a 1 13 1•
1
1'12 g'/8
22 1 t3 12 6 12 g'ls
Chest span X .95 13 1•
23 5'1s g'l•
Chest level X .95 4% 1
9 12
No reduction 9%
 474 APPENDIX. COSTI NG SHEETS

MEN 'S SHOAT SIZE RIB REDUCTIONS .

I ngthwise dtrectton.
Ten percent smaller m crossw•se direct1on wtthout any reducttons in ~ 100 % and over. ·nee the fin al garment Wtll have twill tape to
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabncs that stretc houlder measurement . 51
Multtply your across measurements by .90, 10% smaller, except for the 5
stabthze the seam and prevent it from stretchtng. Extra
Medium Large Large
Multiply Your Across Extra
small
Measurements By small 39 51a 43';.
3
28 1•
32 3/B
27
36
30 518
1
34 1•
41 3/a
37 3;. -
23 3/ B 37 3/4 45
90 10 318
1 Chest X 1
30 5/a 34 1• 10 11a lOS;.
2 Waist X 90 9 7/a 22%
3 H1p .90
g5;a 22% 22 7/s
40 5/s
X
21 7/s 22 'Ia 41 1/s
4 Crotch depth No reduction 40 11•
5 Watst to knee No reductton 39 118 39%
13% 13 718 14 1/4
6 Watst to ankle No reductton 7 112 13
13 112 14 14 3/s
7 Ankle X .90 12 5/a 13 3
2 1• 2 51a 2 11a
2 2 'Ia 3 112 33;.
8 Knee " .90 1 3 'Ia
~ .90 2 112 2 1• 1
1 1• 1 31s
9 Front crotch
1 1 'Ia
10 Back crotch 1 1 20 314 21 'I•
' .90
19 114 19 31• 20 1•
2 112
2 31s
1
11 Crotch angle X 90 2 12
12 Nape to watst No reductton 2% 2% 'Is 7
314 314 1a
13 Back neck 314 6 314
No reductton 1
6 1• 6 112 7
14 Back neck nse >< .90 6 1 9 314
8 11• 8 314 9 1• 10'1•
15 Shoulder length No reduction 7
24 1a 25 11a 25 318 25%
16 Across back X .90 24% 1 314 3
1% 1 51a 1 1·
17 Sleeve length No reduction 1% 12 11s 7
10 118 10% 11 112 12 1s
18 Shoulder p1tch >< .90 7 71a
6 112
1
7 1• 8 112
19 Bicep X .90 5 71•
12% 12 718 13 13 ';. 13 112
20 Wnst X .90
21 Neck 4% 5 112
1
6 1• 7 11a 8
X .90
22 Chest span X .90
7
8 1s 8 '1s 8 31• 8 71a 1
8 1s
23 Chest level No reduction 28 314 32% 36 39 % 43 114

MEN'S SHORT SIZE FOUR-WAY REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller 1n crossw1se d~recllon and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafhng slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both direct ions.
Multiply your measurements by .90. 10% smaller, in both directions.

Multiply Your Across Extra Extra

Measurements By Small Small Medium Large Large
32 s 36S 40$ 44S 48S
1 Chest X .90 28 314 30 % 32%
2 Waist X .90 34 ';. 36
23 % 25 114 27 28% 30 %
3 Hip X .90 30% 32 % 34 114 36 37 %
4 Crotch depth X .90 9 11s 1
5 Waist to knee 9 1• 9% 1
9 12 9%
X .90 20 314 20 71• 1
6 Waist to ankle X .90 37 11a
21 21 'Ia 21 1•
37% 1
7 Ankle X .90 1 37% 37 71a 38 /s
7 12 12 314 3
8 Knee X .90 12%
13 13 'Ia 13 1•
9 Front crotch 12 71a 13 1 1
X .90 2 13 14 13 1.!
2
10 Back crotch X .90 2 71a 2'1a 2 114 2 3/a
11 Crotch angle X .90 3 3 11a 3
1 3 /a 3'1.!
12 Nape to waist X .90 1 11a 1'1. 1
18 114 18 112
1
1 /• 1 /J
13 Back neck No reduction 3 18% 1
19 1•
2 18 2% 3 19
14 Back neck rise No reduction 314 3;. 2 1a 2 31a 2%
15
16
Shoulder length
Across back
No reduction
No reduction
6
6 11a
314
6 114
3;.
s'n
'I•
17 Sleeve length
8'1• 1
8 12 6 31a
No reduction 24% a% 1
3 24'1. 9 9 1•
18 Shoulder pitch No reduction 1 14 24 71a 25
1
25 /s
Bicep 1%
19 X .90 10 11s 1 314 1 7/a 1'/s
20 Wrist X .90 10 112
5'1• 10314 1 1
11 1.!
21 Neck No reduction 6'1• 1 11 /a
14 7 11•
22 Chest span X .90 14 'Ia 6 12 6 7/a
4% 14'1• 14 1.!
1
23 Chest level X .90 431• 14%
9% 5'1• 1
ss;, 6 1•

-
9'1• 1
9 1• 93/e 9 1/•
 A PPENDI X :
COST I NG S HEETS
475

L
siZE STABLE KNITS REDUCTIONS
p.4E"'••'5 T.AL rossw1se drrechon w•thout any reductrons tn lengthwtse dtrect•on
pf'"('ef''t smaller 1M ~s when draftrng slopers for fabncs that stretch from 0% to 25%
:~r0 ~se measurernen .,..,..actly as recorded without any reductions. ·
~~~t"" measurem~e~n~ts~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--~~~~------~--------------------------------------

...
US' Multiply Your Across Extra

-------~M~ea~s~u~r~e~m=e=n=t~s==B~y=======S~m~a~
32 TII======~S~m~a;
36 TII------~M~e~d~i;u~m~----~~~------lE~x~
tr~a~
't! -----

~-------------~~----------~~~------~~:_
; : 32 36
______~40~T--------~4~
40 44
4~T~======~!=~
48 T
Large Large

.....-- 2 ~;~tch
wa~st Xl ;~ ~~ 3
5 39 ~
3 depth ~~ ;:~~~::~~ ;~ '• ;~~: ~g23 h
1
~~31, 11
48
40'u.~
7
' Wa•sttoknee Noreduct1on 40 5;, 23 /e •

1 2~•/a ~~ h ~~',~
5 warst to ankle 41 1 , 24 18
6 Ankle x l :: ,1, 14 h
7
8 Knee ~: 2 'I• 14 'to 15 'le 15'/e

--
9 Front crotch x 1 2 '1• 3 2 '12 231• 3
tO sack crotch x1 1 1 '!e 313;, 'to
313 4
1
11 Crotch angle No reduc!IOn 20 11e 20% 21 'I•
118 215181• 1 1:1
12 Napetowarst Noreduct1on 2 1/• 2' '• 22 ;a
13 Back neck x 1 3/• 3' 23/e 23;8 23/a
6 '~:
314 31 31
5 7/ e
:~ !:'~~~~~th,h 286:~. 2~6~~ r3.~
14 Back neck nse No reduct1on "' •

SteeVe leng
X,
No reduct1on
286
,, 26 '/•
1f "
27

-=:
t L
7
17
18 ShoUlder P•tch x 1 1 le t '!a 2 2 2
19 S'cep X 1 10 '12 11 'I• 12 1231• 13'7
20 Wnst x 1 6 '1• 7 731• B'h g' ,,
21 Neck X 1 13 '12 1331•
3 14 14 'I• 14 'n
22 Chest span x 1 53 5 1• 6 6% 7
1

23
Chest level No reductiOn 9 1• 10 10 'I• 10 ;, 103 4

=:; MEN'S TALL SIZE MODERATE REDUCTIONS

Two percent smaller 1n crossw1se d 1rect 1on without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when draftmg slopers for fabrics lhat stretch from 25% to 50% ,
Mulllply your across measurements by ,98, 2% smaller, except for !he shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to s1abl-

5
hzelhe seam and prevent 1t from stretc hing.

Mult iply Your A c ross E xtra Extra

Sma ll Small Medium Large Large
Measurements By
32 T 36 T 40 T 44 T 48 T

~ 1 47
Chest x ,98 31 'Ia 35 11• 39 1• 43 '/e ,
WaiSt X ,98 26 '12 30% 34 'I• 38 'I• 42 le
47
1
Hlp x ,96 31 'Ia 35 11• 39 1• 43 'Ia 11
1 1031

§
4 Crotch depth No reduction 10 10 1• 10 '12 7' 4
5 Wa1st to knee
23 11e
3 23''• 23 /e 2 'I•
~na~~~ to ankle
No reduction 23 1/ e " 2
6
7
Knee
No reduction
x ,98
40
8
40 12
1331•
41
14 '1•
i!!;!
14'1•
1
is•;.
15%
8
9 Front crotch x ,98 1331a t3 '1e
1 14 31e 23'• 3
X 98 2 2 1• 2 '12 { 4
10 Back crotch , 3 'I• 3 /e 1' ~
11 Crotch angle X ,98 2% 3 1 1>;. ('
12
13
Nape waist
10
Back neck
x ,98
No reduction
1
1
20 1a
1 'Ia
20%
2 ~ ~~: 21 'Ia
2 >;,
22 Ia
2%
14 B k
ac neck rise
No reduct ion 2
3
'I• 2 2;e
31,
2%
'le 'le
o 6 1e
'le
7
15 X ,98
Shoulder length 1I• 6''a 631e 6 1/a 10
t6 Across back No reduction 5 1a (' 9 9 3h 27
17 Sleeve length x ,98 8 8h 26 /• 2
2
~ I;!
t
18 Shoulder Pilch No reduction 26 26 'I• 2 13 'I•
19 B•cep x ,98 131• 1'1e 113/• 12 'h 9
7 o;,
20 Wrist X ,98 10 11• 11 7 a'fa 14'1•
21 Neck x ,98 6 'Ia 6 /a 6•1,
22 13 31, 14
Chest span X ,98 13'1• 13 '12
1 531• 6 11/4 lO 'h
23
Chest '!ev~e~'------------~~x~,~9~8~~--------J4~3~~·--
No reduction g '12 _ j5~~1·~------_2~--------__.:1~0~1~•-------------
______ 9 31•
10
 4;"6 '\PPlNDIX: COSTING SHEETS

MEN'S TALL SIZE STRETCHY REDUCTIONS

ll'u·~ rcent smaller rn crosswrse drrectron wrthout any reducttons '" lengthwtse d~rec~on.
u ..e th:e measurements when draft•ng slopers for fabncs that stretch fro~dSO~~~:;ement· srnce the final garment w•ll have twtll tape to stabt-
M.ulttply your across measurements by .97. 3% smaller. except for the shou er _
l•ze the seam and prevent 11 from stretchtng Extra
Multiply Your Across Extra
Small Medium Large Large
Measurements By Small
36T 40T 44T 48T
32 T
38 314 42~/e 46 1h
1 Chest )i .97 31 35 7
2 Warst ' .97 26' ·.. 30 34 37 to 41 "to
3 H1p .97 31 35 38 3 /.a 42% 46 1h
10 3t.
X
4 Crotch depth No reductron 10 10'/• 10 1h 11
5 Warst to knee No reductron 23 1-11 23 3to 23 5 te 23 718 24 118
6 Warst to ankle No reductron 40 40 1h 41 41 1h 42
7 Ankle )( .97 7 '8
7
13 5/ e 14 14 112 15
8 Knee '>( 97
1
13 / 4 13 314 14 1to 14'18 15 1/e
9 Front crotch X 97 2 2118 2 3/e 2'18 3
10 Back crotch )( .97 2'111 3 3 1/4 3 112 3
7
to
lt Crotch angle )( .97 1 1 1
1
/4 1 3to 1h
1

12 Nape to W81St No reductron 1

20 18 20% 21 'to 21 5to 22 1111
13 Bat.:k neck No reductron 2 1/ • 2 1/.s 2 3to 2 3to 2 3to
14 Back neck nse )( .97 3;, 3t• 3t• 3t• 3t•
15 Shoulder length No reductron 5 7/ s 6 1/s 6 3to 6 5/s 7
6 111
16 Across back X 97 8 8 112 9 9 1h 10
t7 Slaeve length No reductron 26 14
1
26 1h 3
26 26 t• 27
18 Shoulder p1tch X .97 13/• 1 718 1 7to 2 2
t9 B•cep X .97 10 1/s 11 11% 12% 13
20 Wnst X .97 6 6 31• 7 112 1
6 1• 9
21 Neck X .97 13 13% 13% 13 7to 14
22 Chest span X .97 4 31• 1
5 1• 5 314 1
6 1• 3
6 1•
23 Chest level 1
No reductron 9 12 931• 10 10 118 10 3to

MEN 'S TALL SIZE SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS

Five percent smaller 1n crosswrse drrect1on wrthout any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when draft1ng slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%.
Multiply your across measurements by .95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-
.......
ill

.....
llze the seam and prevent 1t from stretching.

Multiply Your Across Extra

Measurements By Extra
Small Small Medium Large La rge
32T 36T 40T
t 44 T 48 T
Chest X.95 30% 1
2 Wars t 34 1• 38 41 314
X .95 45%
3 H1p 25% 29 1h 1
33 14 7
4
X .95 30 31e 34 11s
37 40 18

......
Crotch depth 38 41 314
No reductron tO 1 45%
5 Warst to knee 10 1• 10 314
1

.-
No reduction 1 10 12 11
6 Waist to ankle 23 to 23 318 23% 7 1
7 No reductron 40 1 23 18 24 1•
Ankle 40 12
8 X .95 7% 1
41 41 112 42
Knee 13 14 13 314 1 3
X .95 14 1• 14 1•
9 Front crotch 13 13 31a 7
10 Back crotch
X .95 7
1 1a 1
13 1a 14 31o 7
14 1a
X .95
2 112
2 1a 2 31a 2% 7
2 1a
t1 Crotch angle
X .95 2 71a 3 16
1 1
t2 Nape to waist 1 3 12 3%
1 1
13 Back neck
No reduction
No reduction
1
20 18
1 20%
1 14
21 11a
1 'I• 1%
1
t4 21% 22 1o

-,-
Back neck nse 2 1• 1
2 1• 3
t5 Shoulder length X .95 3;, 3;,
2 /a 2 31a 2%
t6 Across back No reduction
5 '1• 1
6 /a
31• >;. 3;,
17 Sleeve length X .95 6% 6% 7
6 /o
8 1
8 12
18 Shoulder pitch No reduction 9 1
26 26 1/4 9 12 10
19 Bicep X .95
1 314 26 112 26 3/4 27
20 X .95 1'1. 7
Wrist tO 10'1.
1 /a 1 7/a 2
21 X .95
Neck 6
6%
11%
3 12 'Ia 12 7/s
22 X .95 7 7 /o
Chest span 12 /a 13 8 8 3/4
23 Chest level X .95
4% 13 1/4 13 1h 3
13 1•
No reduction 5 1/a s%
9';, 1
9 h 6 6 1h
9 3;. 1
10 10 /•
 APPENDIX:
COSTING S H EETS
477

~RIB REDUCTIONS
MEN'S fA 1
direction withou t any reductions 1n lengthwise dlrect1on
nt 51113uer in cro~,:~~rafting slopers for fabn cs that stretch 100% and over
ren perce easurements nts by 90. 10% smaller, except for the s houlder measurement, since the fl
1
use rnesyoe';across measure~~ from stretching na garment Will have tWill tape to
MLIIIipiY seam aarn:c;d~p~re::v:o:e~n~~~:;;;~~~~;;;,;---;;;~;----------------------=:.:::__
stab•l•ze the :_ Multiply Your Across Extra
Measurem e nts By Small Small M edium Extra
32 T 36 T 40 T Large Large
------------------------:~--------~~~------~v,-------~~------~
44~T~----~4~8~T~
~ ~ ~g ~~~:: ~f31' ;~,12 39'1• 43 '1•
2
waist
3
x .90 28 1•
3
32 11e 36 ;~%'8 38 1;,
1-liP No reduction 10 10 /• 10 '12 10{• 43 /•
3 crotch depth No reduction 23 'Is 23 31e 23% 11
4 23 8 1
40 112
i Waist to knee
WaiSt to ankle
No reduction
x .90
40
7 'I• 12%
41
13 41 (>
13 2
/ 24 /s
42
12 31,
1
7 Ankle x .90 12 1•
3
13 ';, 13 / 14
Knee x .90 1 1• 2 2 'I• /' 14
98 Front crotch X .90 2'1s 231• 3 2 (> 23/•
tO Back crotch X .90 'Is 1 1'1s 31 /' 3'1•
3
tt Crotch angle No reduction 20 'Is 20% 21 'le 2
/' 1 /B
12 Nape to wa,st No reduction 2 'I• 2 'I• 2% ~~: 2 ~~:
t3 sack neck . x .90 314 314 ,1, >;. ,,,
t4 Back neck nse No reduction 5 71a 6 11a 6% s'le
6"
1;,
t5 Shoulder length 8 8''
X. 90 '2 9 9 112 10
t6 Across back No reduction 26 26 11• 26 112 26 >;. 27
t7 Sleeve length X .90 1 'Ia 1 31• 131• 13'• 13,,
t8 Shoulder pitch , 1 3 ,. ,
t9 Bicep x .90 9,(2 10 /' 10 I• 11 '12 12 'le
X .90 5 /8 6 14 7 7'fe 8 3~8
20 Wrist x .90 12 11s 12% 12% 12 71s 13
2t
22 Neck span
Chest x .90 4 'Is 4 71a 5% 5 3,.'• s ''•
,.
3
23 Chest level No reduction 8 I• 9 9 'I• 9 '12 9 ';.

MEN'S TALL SIZE FOUR-WAY REDUCTIONS

Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction and 10% smaller in the lenglhwise direction.
Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics I hat stretch 100% in both directions.
Mulllplyyourmeasurements by .90,10% smaller, in both directions.
Multiply Your Across Extra Extra
Measurements By Small Small Medium Large large

32 T 36 T 40 T 44 T 48 T
t Chest x .90 28 % 30% 32% 34 11• 36
2 Waist x .90 24 'I• 26 'Is 28 29 31• 31'12
3 1
Hip X .90 28 314 30'1s 32 31s 34 1• 36
9 s;.
22
4 Crotch depth x .90 9 112 9314 9 71a 10 , ~
5 Waist to knee x .90 22 22 22'1• 22 1f.l '
6 Waist to ankle x .90 38 38 'I• 3 8 '12 38 31• 39
~ ~nkle x .90 7'1• 12% 12'1s 12 '/8 ~; ...
9 nee x .90 12 '1. 12 '12 12 31• 13 1 ,,
Front crotch 2
1 ';.
X .
90 2 2 /8
2
~~ Back crotch X .
90 2 'Is 2 'Ia 3 31a 3~ 8
~~~- 1'1s 1~ 1 4
123 Napetowaist ~ ·.9900 1g1, 's 19\ 's 19% 19'/8 20 3
t Back neck {' {' ,, 2 3.s 2 \!
t4 Back neck rise No reduction 2 I• 2 I• 2 1, s., s,,
34
~~
6 ,,~._ 53 ~
3 3
Shoulder length No reduction
7
1• 1• 6 '· ,
Across back No reduction 5 1a 6
8 ,1, 9
t
tS7 Sleeve length No reduction 8 8 'I• 8 ,',:
26 s.'e 26' '2
Shoulder pitch No reduction 26
1
26 1s 26 ~ 2
19 1 'Ia
Bleep No reduction 1 71s 1 71s 1
10 ' '2 10 3 •
20 Wrisl X .90 g 112 9 31, 10 'Is 5 7
2t N 6 •; 4 6 18
22
9Ck X .90 5% 6 13 1'8 14
23 Chestspan Noreduc tlon 13tl2 13% 1!~ 5
3
5 11
~ X.go 4% 4% g 5/e 9 314
------------~x~.9~0~----------~g~t;.~4 _________!93~/s~------~9~12~------~~-------------
1