APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT

“Chelsea mills” LLP Gurgaon

Project: DHU -Defects hundred per unit garment

Abstract
As the global economic condition changing in a rapid motion, generally in an
industry more focus is given on profit margin, customer demand for high
quality product and improved productivity. In this project sewing and
finishing sections is to identify reworks so as to eliminate them for saving
time, cost and improved product quality. In the Apparel Manufacturing
Industry, main raw material is fabric; others are different types of trimming
and accessories. Operational wastages in the Apparel manufacturing process
are top surface Rework, printed label rework, knitting fault, dying fault,
cutting fault, sewing fault rework, pinhole rework, fabric rework, Improper
fly shape, and other reworks

Introduction
In garment manufacturing, it is usual few rejected garments after shipment.
Reason, most of the manufacturers believe that garments are soft goods and
non-repairable defect may occur due to low quality raw materials or faulty
process or employee casual behavior. However, factory must have check
points to control over this issue. There is no ready-made solution that can
reduce rejection percentage overnight. Each order is unique. But this project
works suggests how to handle this issue and bring down rejection rate to
minimum. As see a lot of rejected garment after shipment. Most of the
organization termed these garments as rejected because those garments
can’t be by any means. Reworks in the garments industry is a common
works that hampers the smooth production rate and focus poor quality
products having an impact on overall factory economy.
 Literature Review
In the modern area of the textile technology we are well aware about the
minimization of the defect in the garment industry. The basic needs for
productivity increase in the sewing department.
We have to control the productivity by keeping the intension on the
minimization of the defect in the sewing department through the actual
taking the supervising& strict operating condition to be followed.
In the apparel industry the quality is the main factor. In quality there is
mainly focus on DHU %.DHU% means the defects per hundred units. The
project is related to defects occurring during sewing. These problems
occurred is garment process line due to sewing and also due to fabric during
fabric manufacturing as well as fabric processing. In this project the work is
done for the improvement in quality by minimizing DHU% due to sewing.
First, we collected the data on particular style of garment for defects found,
analyzed it for cause and remedial action. Then we took corrective action to
remove the faults and collected the data again. From this work compared
the DHU% before and after the trails. It means number of defects found or
detected per 100 garments.
To measure DHU of any process, one needs to record number of total pieces
checked and number of total defects are detected in the inspected garments.
It is number of defects not the defective garments
Defects per hundred garments= Total defects found *100
Total garment inspected
 Methodology
I have started inspecting garments and found some defects which are given
below:
Defects ( Red letter)- Major Defect
Defects( Black letter)- Minor Defect
LINE --1
Style no.--007
Garment checked 67 48 55 59 48 277
TOTAL
S.no. DEFECTS 4/6/2018 5/6/2018 6/6/2018 7/6/2018 8/6/2018 DEFECTS
1 Thread joint 9 12 3 2 0 26
2 Arm hole miss match 0 6 7 0 9 22
3 Not in position 9 0 14 0 6 29
4 Long back tack 0 0 0 12 0 12
5 Loose stitch 6 9 0 0 9 24
6 Puckering 8 8 10 7 12 45
7 Uneven stitch 6 0 17 6 9 38
8 Stitch break 6 11 10 10 3 40
9 No side loop 0 0 12 0 0 12
TOTAL ` 248
 LINE -2
STYLE NO.--357954
Garment checked 63 68 65 60 55 311
TOTAL
S.no. DEFECTS 4/6/2018 5/6/2018 6/6/2018 7/6/2018 8/6/2018 DEFECTS
1 Thread joint 9 11 12 6 12 50
2 Arm hole miss match 3 9 5 2 0 19
3 Raw Edge 5 21 10 12 5 53
4 Long back tack 12 10 2 0 15 39
5 Loose stitch 0 0 0 2 0 2
6 Puckering 6 0 1 5 6 18
7 Uneven stitch 4 6 6 8 0 24
TOTAL 205
 LINE -3
STYLE NO.—370883

Garment checked 62 54 58 65 64 303

TOTAL
S.no. DEFECTS 4/6/2018 5/6/2018 6/6/2018 7/6/2018 8/6/2018 DEFECTS
1 Thread joint 5 15 14 10 12 56
2 Arm hole miss match 0 9 0 1 0 10
3 Not in position 4 0 9 5 12 30
4 Open seam 10 0 9 4 19 42
5 Loose stitch 3 8 0 5 0 16
6 Raw edge 2 9 8 10 8 33
7 Uneven stitch 11 0 0 2 0 13
8 Stitch break 5 6 3 0 0 14
9 No side loop 0 0 0 0 0 0
10 Thread break 6 0 6 0 14 26
TOTAL 244
 LINE -4
STYLE NO.--368100
Garment checked 51 42 48 39 49 229
TOTAL
S.no. DEFECTS 4/6/2018 5/6/2018 6/6/2018 7/6/2018 8/6/2018 DEFECTS
1 Thread joint 10 17 5 0 9 41
2 Arm hole miss match 0 4 3 0 0 7
3 Not in position 12 0 8 6 7 33
4 Long back tack 0 5 1 6 0 12
5 Loose stitch 3 0 9 0 5 17
6 Puckering 0 8 11 0 7 26
7 Uneven stitch 0 2 0 9 0 11
8 Stitch break 3 0 9 0 2 14
9 No side loop 0 0 1 0 0 1
10 Thread break 2 0 3 0 1 6
TOTAL 168
 LINE -5
STYLE NO.--355789
Total checked garment 40 35 40 45 60 220
TOTAL
S.no. DEFECTS 4/6/2018 5/6/2018 6/6/2018 7/6/2018 8/6/2018 DEFECTS
1 Thread joint 5 10 3 2 6 26
2 Arm hole miss match 3 4 0 0 0 7
3 Not in position 8 6 0 6 4 24
4 Long back tack 0 6 2 1 0 9
5 Loose stitch 3 0 0 2 9 14
6 Uncut thread 1 8 4 5 0 18
7 Overlock 3 0 0 3 2 8
8 Stitch break 3 0 2 9 0 14
TOTAL 120
 LINE-6
STYLE NO.--357951
Total checked garment 40 48 44 37 76 245
TOTAL
S.no. DEFECTS 4/6/2018 5/6/2018 6/6/2018 7/6/2018 8/6/2018 DEFECTS
1 Thread joint 0 12 12 0 4 28
2 Arm hole miss match 3 4 3 5 0 15
3 Not in position 7 3 8 0 18 36
4 Open seam 1 12 12 5 14 44
5 Loose stitch 7 2 0 0 3 12
6 Puckering 0 3 0 0 0 3
7 Overlock 6 0 5 0 1 12
8 Stitch break 7 1 0 3 0 11
TOTTAL 161
After that, I separated the major three defects and started collecting data
operation wise and the result are as follows:

Line--1
Date-14/06/18-19/06/18
TOTAL CHECKED GARMENT--72
MAJOR DEFECTS
Operation Stitch break Uneven stitch Puckering
Hem 0 5 18
Cuff 12 0 0
Collar 10 0 0
Yoke 0 10 0
Armhole 0 0 0
TOTAL 22 25 18

Line--2
Date--14/06/18--19/06/18
TOTAL CHECKED GARMENT--60
MAJOR DEFECTS
Operation Thread joint Raw Edge Long back tack
Collar flap 0 9 0
Cuff 12 0 7
Collar 10 0 9
Pocket 0 12 0
TOTAL 22 21 16

Line--3
Date--14/06/18--19/06/18
TOTAL CHECKED GARMENT—68
MAJOR DEFECTS
Operation Uneven stitch Open seam Raw edge
Cuff 12 6 15
Collar 9 12 7
Yoke 0 0 0
TOTAL 21 18 22
 Line--4
Date -14/06/18--19/06/18
TOTAL CHECKED GARMENT--64
MAJOR DEFECTS
Operation Thread joint Placement Stitch break
Shoulder 6 0 8
Collar 12 0 5
Cuff 9 0 4
Placket 1 3 0
Pocket 0 12 0
TOTAL 28 15 17

Line--5
Date--14/06/18--19/06/18
TOTAL CHECKED GARMENT--50
MAJOR DEFECTS
Operation Thread joint Placement Uncut thread
Side seam 0 0 12
Collar 15 0 0
Cuff 6 0 0
Pocket 0 12 0
TOTAL 21 12 12

Line--6
Date -14/06/18--19/06/18
TOTAL CHECKED GARMENT--56

MAJOR DEFECTS
Operation Thread joint Open seam Placement
Placket 0 0 0
Collar 12 15 0
Cuff 10 2 0
Pocket 0 0 12
Yoke 0 5 0
TOTAL 22 22 12
After this, I worked on each line for finding the root cause behind all major
defects.
From Pareto Analysis we have identified top defect positions and by further
analyzing we have also identified top eight defect types in those positions.
Those defect types are: -
1. Stitch break
2. Uneven stitch
3. Open seam
4. Puckering
5. Thread joint
6. Raw Edge
7. Uncut Thread
8. Long backtack
9. Not in position

1.STITCH BREAK
Stitch break occur during the sewing process and are usually attributed to
either a fault with the sewing machine or a worker error. Broken stitching is
often caused by rough handling.

Fig.1 Fig.2
 FISH BONE DIAGRAM

MACHINE
MAN Tension variation in
looper and needle
thread.
Unskilled operator
SPI of machine is low.
Operator negligence

Lack of motivation
Speed is high
STITCH
BREAK

SOP not followed.

Improper threading

Thread, Needle or fabric

METHOD combination is not proper
MATERIAL

POSSIBLE SOLUTION

Category Corrective action

Man Train unskilled operator.

Machine Before mass production check the tension of stitches as well

as SPI.
Material Thread needle and fabric should be checked before
production.
Method SOP should be followed by operator.

NOTE:-
I observed there, that one individual machine (Cuff operator) got
stuck and gave more no. of stitch break in garments. This was
happening because of improper threading and bad thread quality.
The moment I saw the defect, I advised them to change the thread
and I changed the threading of the machine, and the results are as
follows:

Operation Stitch break

Hem 0
Cuff 0
Collar 2
Yoke 0
Armhole 0
TOTAL 2

2.UNEVEN STITCH
Where the loops on the bottom-side of the seam are inconsistent and do not
appear uniform. To overcome this, use a quality thread with consistent
frictional characteristics, properly balance the stitch so that when the looper
thread is unraveled, the needle loop lays over half way to the next needle
loop on the underside of the seam.
 FISH BONE DIAGRAM

MACHINE Feed dog or pressure

MAN
is not parallel

Unskilled operator

Operator negligence
Needle bent, Point
Lack of motivation
damage, Thin
UNEVEN
STITCH

Fabric holding tight

Excessive operation Needle thread or

speed. fabric combination
is not proper
METHOD
MATERIAL

POSSIBLE SOLUTION

Category Corrective action

Man Train unskilled operator.

Machine Feed dog pressure should be adjusted properly.

Needle should be checked before mass production.
Material Needle thread and fabric combination should be followed as
per data.
Method Operator should be aware of how to perform operation.

NOTE:-
I have suggested a (GUIDE) of yoke shape that will help to reduce
the uneven stitch.
This GUIDE was used for collar only, I have suggested them to use
this in the shape of yoke also, so which will help to reduce the
uneven stitch.

3.Open seam: -
Open seams are both visually unappealing and weaken the integrity of the
garment seams. They are almost always considered a major defect,
regardless of size. Open seams are generally not a defect present in a full
order but will be evident on isolated units due to poor folding or an incorrect
technique used by the worker.
 FISH BONE DIAGRAM

MACHINE Needle size and thread

MAN
weight are mismatched
Unskilled operator
Incorrect alignment
Operator negligence
Needle bent, Point
Lack of motivation achine is low.
damage, Thin
OPEN
SEAM

Bobbin empty.

Wrong thread for

the application
Wrong size needle

METHOD
MATERIAL

POSSIBLE SOLUTION

Category Corrective action

Man Train unskilled operator.

Machine =>Adjust timing between needle and looper.

=>Adjust fabric tension.
=>Needle plate, presser foot and feed dog should be
checked.
Material Needle should be specific as per data

Method Threading should be correct using all guides.

High quality and comptitable thread should be used for
operation.
NOTE:-
This problem occurred due to empty bobbin and the operator did not
got to know about it.
After this problem I researched on this and got know that every 32rd
garments the bobbin gets empty ,so to avoid this defect the operator
should change the bobbin in the 31st garment itself. and results are
follow:-

Operation Open seam

Placket 0
Collar 1
Cuff 1
Pocket 0
Yoke 1
TOTAL 3
4. Puckering: -
Puckered seam is where the seam does not lay flat after stitching mainly due
to too much stretching of the fabric while sewing.
 FISH BONE DIAGRAM

MACHINE
MAN Dirty/Rusty eyelets &
thread guides
Unskilled operator
Faulty feed dog
Operator negligence

Lack of motivation achine is low.

PUCKERING

Incorrect presser foot

pressure.
Incorrect SPI
Incorrect tension of
sewing thread. Poor quality thread

METHOD
MATERIAL

POSSIBLE SOLUTION

Category Corrective action

Man Train unskilled operator.

Machine Machine cleaning should be done properly before using for

mass production as well as in particular interval
Material Needle-thread-fabric combination should be well judged.

Method SPI should be checked

NOTE:-
I observed that the operator does not check the SPI before start
stitching and due to this most of the defects came, and puckering is
one of the defect in this.
I suggested them to keep one individual person to check the SPI of
all the machines every day. After this, they appointed a checker for
this purpose,and it really worked and the results are below:-

Operation Puckering
Hem 1
Cuff 0
Collar 0
Frill 0
Armhole 0
TOTAL 1

5. THREAD JOINT: -
If there is a splice on stitch line and occurs on top stitching, it is
objectionable. It may be caused by breaks or thread run out during sewing
or cut or broken stitches during a subsequent treatment of the finished
product.
 FISH BONE DIAGRAM

MACHINE
MAN Dirty/Rusty eyelets &
thread guides
Unskilled operator
Faulty feed dog
Operator negligence

Lack of motivation achine is low.

THREAD JOINT

Incorrect presser foot

pressure.
Incorrect SPI
Incorrect tension of
sewing thread. Poor quality thread

METHOD
MATERIAL

POSSIBLE SOLUTION

Category Corrective action

Man Train unskilled operator.

Machine =>Adjust timing between needle and looper.

=>Adjust fabric tension.
=>Needle plate, presser foot and feed dog should be
checked.
Material High quality thread should be used for operation

Method Needle-thread-fabric combination should be well judged.

NOTE:-
This defect was also because of SPI and when the checker started
checking this, the problem started decreasing.
 Operation Thread joint
Placket 0
Collar 0
Cuff 2
Pocket 0
Yoke 0
TOTAL 2

6. PLACEMENT: -
Placement is kind of major defect which is generally shown in production
line. This defect generates because of worker negligence or due to old
marker.
 FISH BONE DIAGRAM

MACHINE
MAN

Unskilled operator

Operator negligence

Lack of motivation

PLACEMENT

Marker problem
Marking on the cut
pieces. Incorrect pattern

METHOD Shape and size of the pattern

MATERIAL become change due to long
interval of time it’s not change.
.

POSSIBLE SOLUTION
Marker problem

Category Corrective action

Man Train unskilled operator.

Machine

Material Change marker and pencil.

Method Marking patterns should be checked and use new marker

after a particular interval due to wear and tear of markers
 7.LONG BACKTACK: -
This kind of defect is generated by due to high speed of machine.

FISH BONE DIAGRAM

MACHINE
MAN

Unskilled operator
No automatic cutter
Operator negligence

Lack of motivation

LONG
BACKTACK

Speed is so high.

METHOD
MATERIAL
 POSSIBLE SOLUTION

Category Corrective action

Man Train unskilled operator.

Machine UBT/thread trimmer should be used

Material

Method Speed of the operation should be optimum.

8.RAW EDGE: -
This defect is basically, the inner stitch visible outside.
 FISH BONE DIAGRAM

MACHINE
MAN

Unskilled operator
No guide
Operator negligence

Lack of motivation

RAW EDGE

Miss alignment

METHOD
MATERIAL

POSSIBLE SOLUTION

Category Corrective action

Man Train unskilled operator.

Machine Problem is coming from machine where gather is making.

=>If we joint stopper on that machine where frill gather is
making then it should be reduce.
=> use guides
Material

Method Use guides for alignments

NOTE:-
This defect came due to miss alignment of fabric so I suggested
them to use a stopper which will stop the fabric at 1\4 inch so that
operator can stitch easily without miss alignment.

Operation Raw edge

Cuff 2

Collar 1

Yoke 1

TOTAL 4
 10. UNCUT THREAD: -
This defect is minor defects, its occurs because of operator negligence
or absence of auto cutter.

FISH BONE DIAGRAM

MACHINE
MAN

Unskilled operator
No automatic cutter
Operator negligence

Lack of motivation

UNCUT
THREAD
D

METHOD
MATERIAL
 POSSIBLE SOLUTION

Category Corrective action

Man Train unskilled operator.

Machine UBT/thread trimmer should be used

Material ---------------------

Method ---------------------

After implementing the data are below:-

Garment
checked 65 71 75 85 92 388
TOTAL
S.no. DEFECTS DAY 1 DAY 2 DAY 3 DAY 4 DAY 5 DEFECT
1 Thread joint 0 1 0 2 1 4
2 Uncut thread 3 2 1 1 1 8
3 Not in position 0 1 2 1 0 4
4 Open seam 1 0 0 0 1 2
5 long backtack 1 2 0 2 1 6
6 Raw edge 0 0 0 0 1 1
7 puckering 0 1 0 0 0 1
8 Stitch break 1 0 1 0 0 2
TOTAL 28