National Textile University

BSc. Textile Engineering

Introduction to Garments Manufacturing

Course code: GM-2041

Course title: Introduction to garments manufacturing

Semester: 4th

Section: (KN) E

Practical No: 03

Practical Title:
Study The Different Parts of Over-lock stitch Machine.

Submitted By
Name: Sehar Choudhary

Reg No: 16-NTU-0154

Submitted To

Ma’am Muntaha Rafiq

Date Experiment was conducted: 21/02/2018

Date Report was submitted: 28/02/2018

Abstract:
Different parts of over-lock stitch machine are studied. This experiment provided an overview of
over-lock stitch machine including four thread two needles and loppers respectively. Over-
lockstitch machine used mainly for edging, hemming and seaming of fabric. An over lock is kind
of stitch that sewed over the edge one or two pieces of cloth.

Introduction:

Background:
Over-lock stitch machine was introduced by Marrow Machine Company in 1881. It also called
as Marrow or serge. Stitches can stretch up to 300% and have up to 1500 stitches per minute.

Theory:
An over lock stitch machine can help to create flat lock stitches, decorative edging and other
trims. It produces stitches to sew over one or two pieces of cloth it also trim of excess fabric
alone the edges to prevent fraying. It uses lopper to feed multiple thread cones instead of bobbin.
This is also known as serge or over-edge.

Objective:
1. To observed the function of over-lock stitch machine.
2. To understand the proper working of each part of over-lock stitch machine.

Equipment and Material:

 Over lock machine
 Thread packages
 Fabric to be over-lock

Procedure:
An over–lock machine has two needles and four threads. Parts of the machine were observed and
function of each part was studied.
Different parts and Functioning:

 Thread guide pin rod assembly :

This assembly provide path to all threads and make it limited. Means this
assembly holds the threads within specific area.

 Thread tensioner assembly :

This assembly provides tension on all sewing threads during stitching in
overclock stich machine. This is also responsible for the control of given
tension.

 Two hole thread guide horizontal :

This is a kind of guide help the thread towards passage
or position. Lopper threads are separated due to this two
hole thread guide and one upper lopper thread passes
through this guide.

 Two hole thread guide vertical :

This also helps the thread towards passage or position but towards vertical
direction. This guide has same function as of two hole thread guide horizontal
but direction is changed.

 Thread guide:
This is a guide for thread to feed each thread through its own
set of tension controls. And to avoid the threads from tangling.
 Thread guide take up A and B :
These are two guides respectively which guide all the
threads towards next part of the machine.
 Two hole thread guide A, B and c :
To provide thread to needle two hole thread guide is
used.

 Upper lopper :
The thread for stitch is provided by this.
 Lower lopper :
Stich is made by the help of lower lopper.

 Two knives :
If fabric is not balance then two knives are used to cut the rough
edges and unnecessary thread during over lock stitch.

 Thread take up lever:

The take-up lever is a part of the thread system of the sewing machine
located directly above the presser foot. The take up lever lifts the thread
back up out of the cloth after a stitch has been made.

 Hand wheel:
Hand wheel, is the round wheel located at the upper right of the sewing
machine. The balance wheel manually advances the sewing machine. The
hand wheel should only be turned in the direction that advances the sewing
machine, never in the opposite direction. It is used to raise the lower needle and take up the
lower thread.
 Two needles :
It is used to make hole on the fabric surface for passing the yarn from one side
to another for completing sewing action.

 Needle plate or throat plate :

A small opening in the plate allows the bobbin thread to come out
and the needle to pass through to make stitches. Most throat
plates have small lines notched to the right of the presser foot;
these serve as guides for seam allowances and for sewing straight
lines. A sewing machine throat plate has holes and/or slots for the
needle to pass through as it moves up and down to stitch the
fabric to accommodate the different needle positions and fancy
stitches available on the machine,

 Needle bar :
The reciprocating bar to which the needle of a sewing machine is attached. Needle bar is a
steel rod to keep the needle at one end with the help of a clamp. Its main function is to give
motion to the needle.
 Presser foot regulating assembly :
The pressure adjustment sets that amount of pressure that the presser foot will exert on the
fabric. Downward pressure on the presser foot holds the fabric between the feed dog and
sewing machine foot.

 Stitch dial :
It is used for increasing and decreasing the stitch density per inch (SPI) stitch per
inch during sewing.

 Presser foot :
It is fixed to the presser bar to hold the cloth firmly in position when lowered.
 Presser foot arm :
A bar to which the presser foot of a sewing machine is attached. It
gives support to the presser foot.
 Hand lifter :
A lever which is used for the up and down movement of presser
foot and hold the presser feet at that condition.
 Felt :
In felt silicon oil is used. It is placed to remove the protruding fibres of the thread and give it
strength.
 Oil side window :
Oil is present in this window and supplied to all the parts of the machine.

 Eye shield :
It is a plastic cover in front of needle to protect eye from needle
breakage.

 Foot lifter:
For temporary lifting of presser foot lifter is used.

 Face plate :
The cover on the left side of the bed that covers the needle bar and the
presser bar. Face plate is a cover that used to protect the thread
breakage.

 Machine stand :
A metal structure upon which the table is mounted.

 Presser foot lever :

It lifts and lowers the presser foot.
  Feed dogs :
The toothed mechanism beneath the presser foot that moves the fabric
forward and backward.

 Clutch or thumb screw :

This is in the centre of the fly wheel and it engages and disengages the stitching mechanism.
 Motor :
The electrical unit that drives the machine.
 Power switch :
A key or button that turns the machine on and off.
Conclusion:
We observe overlock stich machine parts and their functioning in this experiment. An over lock
stitch machine can help to create flat lock stitches, decorative edging and other trims. It produces
stitches to sew over one or two pieces of cloth.