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delicious.

BAKING SMART TART Gin & tonic tart


with candied lemon

SPECIAL
PERFECT PIES,
COOKIES &
HEALTHY
MUFFINS
ONE TRAY
EASY ONE DISH
DINNERS (AND
SPEEDY 5 MINUTE
PIZZA DOUGH!)

GIN&
TONIC
TART
Your favourite flavour combinations, reinvented

COLIN FASSNIDGE PAUL WEST JAMIE OLIVER


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MAY CONTENTS REGULARS
12 Ed’s letter
15 Menus
17 Out & about Join us for dinner
with Mike McEnearney in Sydney.
28 Subscribe to delicious.
29 Insider: news
Food trends and restaurant news.
34 Review
Brisbane’s The Apo.
36 Drinks
Drinks matches for your fave bakes.
38 How to
Darren Purchese’s icing 101.
40 Meat market
Anthony Puharich and Colin
Fassnidge love their Mums’ cooking.
42 I’m loving
Matt Preston’s best bakes awards.
44 Mike McEnearney
Gluten-free pastry, at last!
46 Masterchef
Billie McKay’s Chelsea buns.
48 Bake club
Mastering a simple vanilla cake.
136 Insider: travel
Hot destinations, news and products.

72 153 Recipe index & directory


154 Innovators
Anthony Huckstep chases tuna.

SAVOUR FOLLOW US...


106 Guest chef
Christine Manfield’s cookies.
19 Hand picked 114 Jamie Oliver
River Cottage Australia’s Paul West Jamie’s five best cheesecakes. @deliciousAUS

shares his autumn produce picks. 120 Silvia Colloca


Download our enhanced App
56 Entertaining Easy Italian baking. for Cook Mode & bonus content
Sydney restaurateur power couple
Brody and Liesel Petersen show delicious.com.au

ESCAPE
how to barbecue, Southern-style. For more delicious content.
64 Exclusive extract
Sweet pies from The Pie Project. 128 Global flavours ON THE COVER
72 Valli’s kitchen diary A luxurious stay in Oman. Gin & tonic tart with candied lemon
Valli’s vegetarian Indian menu. 138 24 hours in Auckland (recipe p 85)
80 Wicked Must-visit food and wine hotspots. Recipe Warren Mendes
We turn winning flavour combos 140 Postcard Photography Mark Roper
into dangerously good cakes. Uncovering the secrets of Nordic Styling Kirsten Jenkins
88 Faster food rye bread from a Swedish bakery.
Easy one-tray dinners. 144 Locavore THE DELICIOUS. TEST KITCHEN USES:
100 Balancing act Discover Wellington’s emerging
Bakes made with alternative flours. food and drink scene.

10 delicious.com.au
From across the country, these emerging and established PorkStar chefs encompass
the diverse Australian culinary landscape. The PorkStar 11 are leaders, not followers,
and share a love of the magical beast, the pig. Be a PorkStar and get some pork on
your menu. www.porkstar.com.au
ED‘S LETTER.

W E L C O M E
ONE OF THE greatest gifts my mother
gave me was the ability to cook, and she
encouraged me to love it as well. Growing
up, she gave me a great deal of autonomy
in the kitchen, and I remember baking on
my own from a very young age and enjoying
the solitude, the creativity and the sense
of achievement. These feelings stay with
me today, and it is a great pleasure that
I now have a daughter of my own who
enjoys being in the kitchen (and a son
who also thoroughly enjoys licking a bowl or two). It is a real privilege to
have children to cook for and cook with (not that it’s always easy finding
something everyone likes!). My daughter looks forward to studying home
economics when she reaches high school, even though the subject is now
called ‘design and technology’. This pleases me as I think it is such a
valuable skill, yet completely underrated (full disclosure: my nanna was a

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY JORDAN GRAHAM


home economist and it was actually my plan B if journalism didn’t work out).
With Mother’s Day on the horizon, this issue has many touching tributes
to mothers – Colin Fassnidge and Anthony Puharich both developed a love
of good food from their mothers (p 40). It is also no coincidence this issue
is our baking special, and the abundance of brilliant recipes is the perfect
place to start for spoiling family and friends.

Kerrie McCallum, Editor-in-chief

PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS


Follow me: @kerrie_mccallum

K I KI PI
delicious.’ own Mike McEnearney River Cottage
Phoebe Wood and has opened his new Australia’s Paul
Kirsten Jenkins debut Sydney venue and West cooks a
luscious pies from their you’re invited to be seasonal feast
beautiful new book, the first to eat there. in this month’s
The Pie Project, p 64. Book now, p 17. Hand Picked, p 19.

12 delicious.com.au
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Hayley Incoll

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Food Enquiries askdelicious@news.com.au

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DIGITAL
Digital Commercial Editor Kate Gibbs
Digital Art Director Morgan Reid
Online News Editor Sharnee Rawson
Digital Producer John Hannan

Senior Editor Matt Preston


Senior Contributing Editor Valli Little

Contributors Shannon Bennett, Mike Bennie, Silvia Colloca, Colin Fassnidge,


Jill Henderson, Anthony Huckstep, Karen Kingham, Mike McEnearney,
Matt Moran, Jamie Oliver, Anthony Puharich, Matt Wilkinson

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MENUS
MAY
Baked butter
chicken

delicious.com.au/entertaining
Want more menu inspiration? Check out
our recipe collections for great ideas.

Download our enhanced App for Bennelong


bar manager Aaron Gaulke’s cocktail recipes

Seared bonito
salad with
horseradish
dressing

BEST BAKING
Gluten-free potato, leek & creme
fraiche galette, p 44
~
Cavolo nero & sausage LO N G LU N C H
SPI C ED FE A S T
pizza, p 122
~
INDIAN BANQUET Baked berry cheesecake, p 118 AUTUMN
ENTERTAINING
Tandoori eggplant skewers, p 74
“Cooler weather calls for
Eastern Peake Pinot Tache Seared bonito salad with
days best spent baking
Rosé 2015 horseradish dressing, p 22
and sharing the bounty of
~ your efforts with friends French 75
Baked butter chicken, p 96
and family.” John Hannan, ~
SC Pannell Pinot Grigio 2015 digital producer Oxtail pot-au-feu, p 40
~ Weidmann & Groh Trierer
Cardamom pistachio Weinapfel German Cider
CO M F O R T F O O D
cookies, p 112 ~
Frogmore Creek Iced Gluten-free Blackberry & ginger pie, p 66
Riesling 2013 potato, leek & Plum & berry sherry cobbler
creme fraiche
galette
“Indian meals are “Fresh autumnal
often overlooked for ingredients, coupled
wine pairing with with slightly drying,
most opting for beer, tannic, yet flavourful
but rosé and aromatic drinks will keep your
whites can really palate dancing in cold
work well.” Mike weather.” Aaron Gaulke,
Bennie, drinks writer bar manager, Bennelong

delicious.com.au 15
THE DINNER PARTY
you don’t want to miss
Search more than 5500 recipes from your favourite

celebrity chefs, entertaining ideas to be the ultimate host,

the latest restaurant reviews, hot travel destinations,

daily food news and more!

VISIT US AT THE NEW


OUT & ABOUT.

Mike’s seasonally-led menu


features dishes such as this
watermelon, tomato and
haloumi salad (below).

YOU’RE
INVITED...

DINNER AT No. 1
BENT ST BY MIKE
THE HOTTEST TICKET IN TOWN this month is Mike McEnearney’s eagerly anticipated
new restaurant No. 1 Bent St By Mike, and you’re invited to an exclusive first taste. The
brand new venue (the builders and painters are making their finishing touches as we go WHERE
to print) at The Wintergarden in Sydney’s CBD, features McEnearney’s switch to formal 1 Bent St, Sydney
dining with a menu that perfectly reflects his ethos of seasonally-led food made using
locally sourced and house-made produce. “We’re looking forward to being a part of the WHEN
CBD, where the food just gets better and better. No. 1 will have a small daily-changing 6:30pm, Tuesday, May 24
menu with a strong focus on produce. And although the setting may be more formal,
PRICE
I hope it will feel familiar to those who loved Kitchen By Mike,” says McEnearney. For
$120 + booking fee for 4 courses
guests, this is the first chance to experience McEnearney’s signature food since he closed
with matched David Lowe wines
much-loved canteen-style Kitchen By Mike in Rosebery, and each course will be
matched with David Lowe wines from Mudgee, NSW. Don’t miss out, book now. BOOK
admin.moshtix.com.au/v2/Delicious
DELICIOUS.COM.AU/PEOPLE-EVENTS for galleries from every delicious. event.

delicious.com.au 17
HAND PICKED.

HANDPICKED
When it comes to working the land, no one does it better than Paul West,
who swapped fine dining for DIY on River Cottage Australia and never
looked back. Paul joins the delicious. Produce Awards judging panel
for 2016, so who better to ask for a seasonal entertaining menu.
PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS WORDS KATE GIBBS & DAVID MATTHEWS

delicious.com.au 19
HAND PICKED.

Butterflied chicken
with chargrilled lemon.
OPPOSITE: garlic & preserved
lemon rainbow chard (recipes
p 22). Sisters Gulassa ‘Yves
Klein’ wallpaper in cobalt (used
throughout), from Emily Ziz.
delicious.com.au 21
HAND PICKED.

“AT THE FARM, I MAKE MY OWN BREAD, REAR MY OWN GOATS FOR MEAT,
AND BREED PIGS FOR GUANCIALE AND PROSCIUTTO, PORK CHOPS,
OR TO BARTER IN THE LOCAL COMMUNITY.”

GARLIC & PRESERVED LEMON Remove bonito from the refrigerator 1 small garlic clove,
RAINBOW CHARD 30 minutes before cooking. Heat 1 tbs oil crushed
SERVES 4 in a frypan over high heat. Season bonito, 1 tbs apple cider vinegar
then cook for 45 seconds each side or
1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil, until the outside is lightly charred but To butterfly the chicken, place chicken
plus extra to drizzle the centre is raw. Remove and set aside. breast-side down on a chopping board.
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced To make dressing, place horseradish, Use kitchen scissors to cut down either
1 bunch rainbow chard, stalks cut into lemon zest and juice and remaining side of the backbone to remove. Discard
4cm lengths, leaves chopped, 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil in a small bowl. (or freeze to use in stock). Turn the chicken
blanched and refreshed Whisk to combine. breast-side up, then use your hand to push
11/2 cups (375ml) vegetable stock Thinly slice the bonito and arrange the bird flat, breaking the breast bone.
400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained on a serving platter. Scatter over sorrel For the brine, place 1L (4 cups) water in a
1 preserved lemon, flesh and white pith leaves and sliced radish, and drizzle over large saucepan over high heat. Bring to the
removed, finely chopped the dressing. Serve salad topped with boil, then add salt and sugar, stirring until
Goat’s curd and toasted slivered extra horseradish. dissolved. Remove from heat, then add
almonds, to serve 2L (8 cups) iced water and allow to cool.
BUTTERFLIED CHICKEN WITH Add remaining ingredients and chicken.
Heat oil in a frypan over medium heat. CHARGRILLED LEMON Cover and refrigerate in brine overnight.
Cook garlic for 1 minute or until fragrant. SERVES 4 The next day, remove chicken from
Add chard stems and cook for 1 minute Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. brine, discarding brine, and pat dry with
or until softened. Add stock, chickpeas and paper towel. Transfer the chicken to a plate
preserved lemon. Season and cook for 1.8kg whole chicken and return to the fridge uncovered for at
4-5 minutes until reduced by half, then stir 3 lemons, halved least 1 hour or until ready to cook (the dry
through chard leaves. Remove from heat. Extra virgin olive oil, to brush air in the fridge removes moisture from the
Divide chard among plates and top Flat-leaf parsley and oregano leaves, skin, making it extra golden and crisp when
with goat’s curd and slivered almonds. to serve cooked). Remove from the fridge 1 hour
Drizzle with extra olive oil to serve. before cooking to allow chicken to come
BRINE to room temperature.
SEARED BONITO SALAD WITH 3/4 cup (165g) each sea salt flakes Preheat a barbecue with a lid to
HORSERADISH DRESSING and caster sugar medium-high heat (alternatively place
SERVES 4 1 tsp each coriander seeds, cumin seeds a chargrill pan over medium-high heat and
and black peppercorns, toasted preheat oven to 220°C). Brush chicken and
1 (about 2kg) bonito, filleted (skin off), 1 each onion and carrot, chopped lemons with oil. Cook chicken, skin-side
bloodline and bones removed, each 6 garlic cloves, bruised down, for 2 minutes, then add lemons,
fillet cut into 4 tenderloins (ask your 2 bay leaves cut-side down, and cook for 2-3 minutes
fishmonger to do this) 1 small bunch thyme until chicken is golden and slightly charred.
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil Reduce heat to medium-low. Turn chicken
1 tsp finely grated horseradish, HERB & TAHINI SAUCE and lemons. Close the barbecue lid and
plus extra to serve 1 bunch each flat-leaf parsley, coriander cook for 35-40 minutes until juices of
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon and mint, leaves picked chicken run clear when thickest part
100g mixed sorrel leaves (from 50g baby spinach leaves of thigh is pierced and lemons are soft.
greengrocers) or baby salad leaves 2 tbs tahini (Alternatively, transfer chicken and
1/2 bunch small red radishes, 100ml extra virgin olive oil lemons to a roasting pan and cook for
thinly sliced using a mandoline Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 35-40 minutes until cooked through.)

22 delicious.com.au
Seared bonito salad with
horseradish dressing
Vanilla rice pudding
with roast quince
HAND PICKED.

MARKET
Remove from oven and rest, loosely
covered with foil, for 10 minutes.

BASKET
Meanwhile, for tahini sauce, bring a large
pan of water to the boil over medium-high
heat. Blanch the herbs and spinach for
20 seconds or until tender, then refresh in
iced water and drain, squeezing out excess
liquid. Place in a small food processor or RAINBOW CHARD
blender with remaining ingredients and Those vivid mixed bunches of
2 tbs water. Season and whiz to combine. white, yellow, ruby red and pink
Cut chicken into pieces and place on a stemmed chards you find on
platter or tray with lemon and tahini sauce. shelves – commonly referred to as
Scatter with parsley and oregano to serve. rainbow chard – are confusingly cut
from different varieties of the same
VANILLA RICE PUDDING plant, related to sugar beet. Swiss
WITH ROAST QUINCE chard and silverbeet (actually the
SERVES 4 same thing) are most common,
but the coloured specimens are CHICKEN
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped becoming increasingly popular. Like Roasting a big free-range chook
1/2 firmly packed cup (125g) brown sugar silverbeet, stalks and leaves can adds to the sense of occasion when
Finely grated zest and juice of 2 oranges be treated as separate vegetables, entertaining, re-establishing it as
4 cloves with succulent stems making a a centrepiece rather than just what
3 quinces, peeled, quartered lengthways juicy addition to minestrone or you cook when you couldn’t think
taking well to rich sauces and leaves of anything else. Brining seasons
RICE PUDDING working as a pleasantly coarse the meat and keeps it extra juicy,
1 cup (220g) Arborio rice substitute for spinach in gnocchi while butterflying increases the
25g unsalted butter or Greek spanakopita (spinach pie). surface area of skin exposed to
3 cups (750ml) milk direct heat, making it crisper to
1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar BONITO keep the crowds happy.
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped There are several varieties of bonito
3/4 cup (185ml) pure (thin) cream found across the globe, with three QUINCE
main commercial varieties commonly Firm, fragrant quinces are renowned
Preheat oven to 160°C. Combine vanilla sold in Australia (generally just sold for their pleasant aroma and differ
pod and seeds, sugar, orange zest and under the label ‘bonito’). These are from related apples and pears in
juice, cloves and 1/2 cup (125ml) water in all relatively smaller fish with striking that they need to be cooked before
a roasting pan. Add quince and toss to stripe patterns and pale red to pale eating. Poaching slowly in syrup is
coat, then spread in a single layer across pink or whitish flesh. Bonito’s soft best, which turns the yellow flesh
tray. Tightly cover pan with foil and roast, flesh deteriorates rapidly, so make a deep and appealing red. Quinces
turning quinces and basting with the friends with your fishmonger and preserved in jars of honey and
cooking liquid every 30 minutes, for demand fresh, firm fish with a nice vinegar are thought to be the
21/2-3 hours until tender and dark amber. sheen and pleasant smell. The flesh
For stockist details, see Directory, p 153.

ancestors of jam and marmalade,


Meanwhile, for the pudding, place rice, is delicate and reasonably oily, so with their high pectin content aiding
butter, milk, sugar and vanilla seeds in a it’s best charred and cooked rare, the gelling process. Try making your
saucepan over medium heat and bring pickled, cured or eaten raw in own quince pastes and jellies for a
to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and cook, chirashi zushi (scattered sushi bowl). sweet addition to cheese boards.
stirring occasionally, for 20-25 minutes
until rice is tender but still al dente. Stir WHAT ELSE TO BUY IN MAY
cream into rice. • artichokes • broccoli • capsicum • custard apples (Qld)
Divide rice pudding among bowls. Top • fennel • kiwifruit • mushrooms • kohlrabi
with quinces and roasting syrup to serve. >> • nashi (Vic) • okra • pears • pumpkin • spinach

delicious.com.au 25
HAND PICKED.

CLOCKWISE: Paul West at home in


Tilba with his dog Digger; West gave
up city life for a move to country
NSW; the cottage by the river,
complete with vegie patch.

West makes his own bread, rears and kills his own Boer goats for
meat, and breeds pigs which he turns into guanciale and prosciutto,
pork chops, or barters in the local community. It’s engaging viewing,
and that’s not lost on the chef. “You have to have the mindset that
farming is not a sentimental process. Whether it’s a newborn duck
or baby goat, there’s close contact with the animals but in the back
of your mind you know they’re for food. It’s a respectful relationship,
but I don’t give them names. The best part is that you’re responsible

WEST LIFE
for using the entire animal, there’s no waste at all,” he says.
“People ask ‘how can you kill an animal’. But it’s what happens.
We’re omnivores and we choose to eat meat. If it weirds you out,
then don’t eat it. Because someone is pulling the trigger for you.”
Chef, farmer and delicious. Produce Awards
Turning to DIY food is something he plans to pass on to his new

LOCATION PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS


judge Paul West has become a poster boy for son Otto, who appears in the upcoming season. “Parents put a
sustainable farming and his passion for growing protective cloak around their children but they’re in tune with life
his own makes River Cottage Australia the hit it and death. People say they can’t get kids to eat their vegetables.
is, now in its fourth season on LifeStyle FOOD. Well you should see kids in a vegetable patch, they go through
it like a pack of cockatoos. They pull up carrots, have tomato juice

I
t’s the kind of documentary-style television that gets viewers running down their faces. I hope Otto will grow up close to the
hooked: man rearing beast or bird, then slaughtering it for his living world, and be community-centric instead of self-obsessed.”
own sustenance. Such is the remit of River Cottage Australia, West produces his own honey in the latest season and makes
the show on which former Melbourne Vue de Monde chef and now his own mead, too. He rates it as his best experience on the show
television host and farmer Paul West grows, sources and rears his so far. “I use the honey in place of sugar and have it on toast with
own food in Central Tilba, five hours south of Sydney. It’s the dream abundant butter.” He says even if he lived in the city, he’d grow
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY NICK WILSON

of many urbanites, a rural idyll where long lunches are held al fresco; his own rooftop or balcony garden. “With a bit of ingenuity you
a pig, a tomato patch and a dog called Digger the lunchtime can grow your own. And once you do, you’re hooked.”
entertainment. But it’s not all cups of tea fireside.
“Stuff goes wrong. But that’s nothing new. No matter how hard
you work, nature has bigger plans. Farmers go out and put the delicious. PRODUCE AWARDS 2016
This year, Paul West joins the delicious.
work in, but sometimes it doesn’t happen. There’s a huge margin Produce Awards state judging panel.
for failure,” West says. Season two saw a tomato crop fail, and there IN PARTNERSHIP WITH “Australian produce is an expression
was loss when a fox got in to the chicken run. Through the seasons, of our unique and diverse landscape as
well as a reflection of the hardworking
goats have been stubborn milkers, ducks have refused to lay, and and innovative people who tend it,” he
there have been a few flops in the kitchen as well. says. Visit: delicious.com.au for more.

26 delicious.com.au
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28 delicious.com.au
INSIDER.

By the GLASS
Melbourne has very quietly become the
best place in the country to order by
the glass. Joining Andrew McConnell’s
MARION WINE BAR in the CBD,
EMBLA, a little sister to Carlton’s The
Town Mouse, is pouring a mix of organic
and biodynamic drops. Domestic darlings
such as Adelaide Hills’ Gentle Folk and
hip Patrick Sullivan wines are chalked up
next to Julia & Navines organic Spanish
cava and Corsica red. The kitchen is
equipped with a woodfire grill giving
a lick of smoke to their wine-friendly fare.
Local calamari, perhaps, with a buttermilk
sauce, or simple roast chicken ready to
pair with a New York chardonnay.
Nearby, BAR ESTRELLA is slinging
wines the Spanish way with free tapas
(fat slices of tortilla, say, or hunks of TA B L E TA L K

1
house-smoked chorizo), the list covering
ground between cava and tempranillo.
Byron Bay’s iconic Balcony Bar,
has relaunched as BALCONY BAR
WORDS HEIDI FINNANE, DAVID MATTHEWS & SHARNEE RAWSON

Meanwhile, in South Melbourne, you


can graze at the front bar of LAMARO’S & OYSTER CO. (above), with a
BODEGA (pictured), while working fresh new beach-chic vibe thanks to
through more than 25 wines available executive chef Sean Connolly (The
by the glass. There’s everything from Morrison) and business partner
paprika-dusted crispy school prawns
to sausages with onion gravy to help
Fraser Short (The Sydney Collective).
line the stomach. Expect a fresh seasonally-focused
menu showcasing local produce and
seafood – think peel ‘n’ eat Yamba
prawns with tomato blush mayo.

INSIDER NEWS 2
Those who’ve traipsed through
Melbourne’s Chinatown
late-night might be accustomed
to steaming bowls of congee
Hot tables, lust-have products, the latest news, books & more. (rice porridge) in the small hours,
but Victor Liong (Lee Ho Fook) is
pressing the issue for breakfast
at LAWYERS, GUNS AND MONEY,
serving congee your way (it might
TRENDING NOW be with century egg, spicy pickles or
fried bread) with Vietnamese-style
ROTISSERIE CHICKEN coffee and other Chinese-leaning
» Henrietta’s, Melbourne Stuart Brookshaw and offerings including noodles and fried
chicken wings right through lunch.

3
Ruth Gifney have opened this lunch-till-late crowdpleaser in
the CBD, serving 12-hour brined free-range charcoal chickens Less bistronomy, more bistro
with a rotation of salads (above left) and soft serve to finish. is the mood at chef Frederic
» take
Belleville, Melbourne Belleville are doing a fresh
on your neighbourhood chicken joint, heating up
Colin’s and sommelier Lionel
Richard’s BISTROT GAVROCHE on
Chinatown with drinks, beats and miso-glazed chooks.
» Juicy
Sydney’s Kensington Street. An
Lucy, Sydney The team behind Sugarcane offshoot of acclaimed Brasserie
in Surry Hills are mashing up a local chicken shop with South Gavroche in Singapore and exuding
East Asian at nearby Juicy Lucy (left). Grab a bird brined in
Sichuan and coriander with Asian Caesar or try their wraps.
Parisian charm in oak and pressed
linen, the menu follows through with
Edited by Heidi Finnane and David Matthews classics done well such as terrine,
duck confit, onion soup and French
DELICIOUS.COM.AU Go online for weekly restaurant news and reviews from our team of critics and reviewers. and Australian wines to match.

delicious.com.au 29
UP FRONT

BUTTER UP
» What is cultured butter? Pepe
Saya Cultured Butter is made
using cream that has been
innoculated with lactic bacteria,
then left to ferment before

WORDS SHANNON HARLEY, DAVID MATTHEWS & SHARNEE RAWSON


being hand-kneaded. The
addition of a culture changes
the flavour and adds probiotics.
» Why do you cream butter?
Beating butter and sugar makes
mock cream – it’s so delicious!
I prefer it to sweetened cream.
» How should you store butter?
Butter oxidises with exposure

SPREAD THE WORD


to water, light and air. To avoid
this, store in an opaque airtight
container in the fridge for up
to 3 months, or freeze for up to
According to Pierre Issa, the man behind Sydney’s cult artisan butter 6 months. Oxidised butter will
Pepe Saya, you can never have too much butter. Here he shares his have a metallic taste and the
outer layer will turn orange;
tips for storing and cooking (he prefers unsalted for baking, salted scrape it off and the butter
for the table) and shares a hack for homemade sweet butter ‘cream’. underneath should be fine.

NEW IN

30 delicious.com.au
INSIDER.

ON THE BOIL
1 NEW GUARD

As we go to press, the hottest


table in (Sydney) town is
just-opened Bar Brosé, where
Analiese Gregory (ex-Quay) has
teamed up with Acme’s Mitch
Orr and is blowing us away
with veg-led desserts – think
fennel ice cream with fernet
ganache and walnut cake.
READ IT While Merivale’s new restaurant
• FOOD FOR FRIENDS (Hardie Grant Books, $24.99) is a curated collection of all-occasion menus Fred’s, headed by Danielle
from Hardie Grant’s online recipe database, cooked.com. Our picks? Greg Malouf’s hot lemon fritters Alvarez (ex-The French Laundry
for brunch, Sunday roast with Justin North’s caramelised parsnips and Matt Wilkinson’s vegetarian and Chez Panisse, USA) is
miso-glazed eggplant. • THE PIE PROJECT (Hardie Grant Books, $29.95) is the first cookbook from almost (finally!) open. Leading
delicious. senior food editor (and pie fiend) Phoebe Wood and style editor Kirsten Jenkins. The duo
ladies are taking charge behind
have cracked the ultimate pie crust, and with 60 sweet recipes, from Nutella pie to ginger creme
brulee pie, we dare you not to lick the page (see p 64 for a sneak peek). • Ivan Orkin, or for those the pass in 2016.
who don’t know him, the Jewish American guy who took on the world of ramen in Tokyo, cracked
it and became an international sensation with his signature shio ramen, has released his first book 2 ON THE VINE
IVAN RAMEN: LOVE, OBSESSION AND RECIPES (Bloomsbury, $44.99). Read his story, make the
ramen (included are recipes for the 8 building blocks, then how to assemble), and do some very
Wine, it seems, is the new
cool things with the leftovers from making Japanese rolled omelettes to schmaltz-fried katsu.
food festival. Firstly with the
return of Game of Rhones
(beginning May 1 in Adelaide

ID, PLEASE
Krug’s latest offering for
and finishing July 2 in
Auckland). Pitched as a
Champagne aficionados is their combative event between wine
new Krug ID on all bottles, makers, Game of Rhones
which allows you (via your showcases Rhone Valley-style
phone or tablet) to trace your
pours. Then, our very own
bottle’s family tree, along with
tips for storing, drinking, food drinks writer Mike Bennie has
pairing and even suggested teamed up with wine merchant
music to serve your bubbles United Cellars to present Wines
with. To download the free that Will Change Your Life,
App, visit: app.krug.co.
a series of themed tastings.
. Visit: unitedcellars.com.

3 TEAM SPIRIT

Not content to play to their


home crowd, chefs are
increasingly hitting the road for
collaborative dinners. Igni, in
Geelong, has already hosted
Australia’s hottest talents: Luke
Burgess, James Viles and David
Moyle, with Matt Wilkinson and
Mac Forbes set for May 22 (six
courses, with beverages, $250).
INSIDER.

MUM’S THE WORD


Mother’s Day is a wrap with this stylish round-up
of gifts for the epicurean woman in your life.

1 3 4 5 6

10
9

8
18
11

12

13 14 15 16
17

PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

1. Marmoset Found ‘etchings’ platter in large, $69, marmosetfound.com.au. 2. Smith & Co hand balm in ‘unwind’ and ‘restore’, $17.95 each (80ml),
thearomatherapycompany.co.nz. 3. Aesop parsley seed cleansing masque, $39 (60ml), aesop.com/au. 4. Country Road ‘Orla’ rectangular marble
board, $69.95, countryroad.com.au. 5. Country Road marble 3-wick candle in fig, $99.95, countryroad.com.au. 6. Diptyque ‘Genevrier’ candle
in juniper, $87, mecca.com.au. 7. T2 ‘Weekend in Budapest’ glass teapot, $50, and ‘Weekend in Budapest’ clear Turkish glass, $16, t2tea.com.
8. Perrier-Jouet ‘Belle Epoque’ 2007 vintage Champagne, $220, perrier-jouet.com. 9. OPI nail polish in ‘let’s be friends’, $19.95, davidjones.com.au.
10. Sally Hansen complete salon manicure nail polish in ‘sheer ecstacy’, $9.95, au.sallyhansen.com. 11. Nail Lab nail polish in ‘flossie’, $15, thenaillab.
com. 12. Amy Tamblyn ‘3 Crystal’ necklace, $90, The Collector Store, (02) 9699 7740. 13. Dinosaur Designs resin bold stone cuff in ‘cement and chalk’,
$350, dinosaurdesigns.com.au. 14. Marc Jacobs ‘cotton splash’ eau de toilette, $69 (100ml), 1800 812 663. 15. La Prairie cellular radiance perfecting
fluide pure gold, $630 (40ml), laprairie.com.au. 16. La Prairie skin caviar liquid lift, $645 (50ml), laprairie.com.au. 17. La Prairie skin caviar firming
complex, $220 (30ml), laprairie.com.au. 18. Riedel ‘H20 classic bar’ whisky glass, $49.95 (set of 2), riedelglass.com.au.

32 delicious.com.au
www.ara-anz.com
d a y
Our shoe.,
our

Fit your lifestyle.


REVIEW.

The lower level


at The Apo.
BELOW RIGHT:
chicken liver eclairs.

SPARKS FLYING
The Apo is right in line with Australia’s new wave of dining, says
Anthony Huckstep, who finds a perfect match in the Brisbane restaurant.

IT WASN’T ALL THAT LONG AGO Here, it’s poached in saltwater then tossed with
that chefs traded jackets for lab celery, mayo and lemon and served on a brioche THE APO
coats, using chemistry to turn meat bun. Meanwhile, WA octopus is cooked confit with
into fruit, fruit into foams, and in chilli, bay leaves and peppercorns, then charred CUISINE
Contemporary
the process, some off their food. over coals and served on chickpea and pork cheek.
Though smears and foams can be damn impressive, His suckling pig is just as strong. White uses 9kg CHEF
food needn’t be so manipulated. But chemistry is Tawoomba sucklings. They’re bagged with brown Braden White

important in food. The way ingredients interplay butter and slow-cooked for 12 hours. The skin is VISIT
are the reason something may be delicious. crisped to order – smoked yoghurt and parsnip Bakery Lane, 690 Ann
St, Fortitude Valley,
Thanks to the Moubment Group (Gerard’s Bistro, puree cuts the richness. Then velvet chicken liver
Brisbane, QLD
Gerard’s Bar, Hatch & Co, Laruche), The Apo, parfait hides inside miniature eclairs before the
housed in a heritage-listed former apothecary hall chew and give of Rangers Valley outside skirt OPENING HOURS
Tues 3pm-late;
(circa 1862) where Brisbanites once collected their arrives with a fresh slap of Moroccan chermoula.
Wed-Sun 12pm-late
daily dose of medicines and prescription drugs, is White’s food is simple, honest and for the most
providing just the right chemistry with Brizzie’s part delicious. He is a tad heavy-handed on the BOOKINGS
Yes
citizens once again. Downstairs in the two-storey leafy garnishes, but he’s not spending 30 minutes
restaurant-cum-bar an open kitchen provides the over each dish with tweezers. He’s not afraid of a bit BOOK (07) 3252 2403
backdrop in a darkened room of exposed brick and of molecular either. Condensed milk parfait is given theapo.com.au
polished concrete. It’s casual and moody, the service time in a nitrogen bath. A puff of ice smoke arrives PRICE $$$$
snappy and sincere. Upstairs the setting is startlingly with passionfruit curd and dried meringue beneath.
bright, even though the seating is more cocktail bar White calls his food ‘modern progressive’. And BYO No

than restaurant. And although gun mixologist Pez it’s certainly in line with much that has emerged in OTHER FEATURES
Collier is busy crafting cocktails and wheeling out the new wave of Australian dining. There’s enough Bar
whisky, you can dine on the menu proper, too. creativity here to keep you interested, but it’s born CHILD FRIENDLY
Chef Braden White made a name for himself at from the chemistry of classic pairings. Yes
Ricky’s in Noosa and Hatch & Co in Brisbane, but
there’s a sense of maturity here. For example, the
spate of lobster roll joints espousing imported delicious.com.au/eat-out
@huckstergram
lobster has been totally cray of late, so it’s nice to For more of our critic’s dining picks.
@anthuckstep
see a chef championing our local (Cairns) pinchies.

34 delicious.com.au
DRINKS.

BAKER’S DELIGHT
The best drink pairings can be the ones you make at home with the everyday
foods you love to eat, says Mike Bennie, with a slice of quiche in hand.
@mikerism101

BAKED, NOT STIRRED


Often the best food and wine matches
OCHOTA BARRELS DCB WINE PINOT NOIR,
tend to be totally individual, contextual
(I mean, who you’re drinking with is just as THE SLINT VINEYARD 2015, $20 (YARRA VALLEY,
important as the combo of wine and food!) CHARDONNAY, 2015, $40 VIC) What a bargain this
and usually done without fanfare at home. (ADELAIDE HILLS, SA) wine is, but it’s got massive
It’s also often the most common foods that A lean, racy chardonnay drinkability too. It’s bright
bring out the most interesting and satisfying
from a fun-loving producer in fruit-and-spice perfume,
matches with drinks.
We’re used to a raft of Kimye-style in the Adelaide Hills. Try juicy and gently sweet,
high end matches: Champagne and caviar, it with a Cornish pasty, finishing with a tang of
Chablis and roast chicken, Bordeaux and where the grapefruit and fresh acidity. It would be
roast beef. But what about dishes that green-apple tang would pair amazing with a sausage roll
require just a fork to eat, maybe chopsticks,
brilliantly with the filling. and fancy tomato sauce.
or even – shock, horror – your hands.
It got me thinking about what goes with
baked goods. These are the one-handed
heroes of the food world that are built in
single serves (mostly) and can be consumed LINDEMANS KRIEK SMALL CHANGE WHITE,
with a drink balanced in the other hand.
CHERRY BEER, $9 2015 (LANGHORNE
Hanging for a slice of quiche? Well, how
about tucking into a white blend, where the (BELGIUM) What a delight CREEK/ADELAIDE HILLS,
fruity crispness should work a treat with the it is drinking gently sour and SA) $18 A great name that
creamy, cheese-rich eggy filling of that pastry. sweet fruit beers. This one, tells you a couple of things:
A meat pie might conjure up the need for from a traditional Belgian it’s a good price, it’s a bit
a beer in the opposite palm, but a juicy,
brewer, uses cherries to different. Blending old vine
light to medium-bodied red with a gentle
chill is going to work a treat. uplift the natural sourness of verdelho with gewurztraminer
Thinking about sweets such as fruit-spiked the beer. A sip of this, then a results in a wildly aromatic,
pastries and custard-filled breads? Try sipping bite of a fruity-sweet pastry zesty and thirst-slaking
a sparkling with a little fruit-driven sweetness would be an ideal match. white. Pair with pastizzi.
to complement. If fizzy wine isn’t your thing,
I bet that cherry Danish would work brilliantly
with a gently sour-sweet fruit beer.
The wine and drink matches don’t have to
be that prescriptive either. Like chardonnay?
Have a crack at a pastry filled with savoury, JAUMA WINES HUNTER POOR TOMS SYDNEY DRY
vegetable-rich sauce. Keen on making a
AND WOLF RED, 2015, GIN $70 (SYDNEY, NSW)
wholesome pie built around leftovers? Dive
into a glass or two of medium-bodied red. $30 (MCLAREN VALE, SA) A funny thing suggesting gin
Whether you’re going savoury or sweet, This sloshy-textured, bright, and pastries, but what came
pie or tart, and working with puff, choux, vibrant drop is made from to mind with a classic lemon
flaky, filo or shortcrust, there’s always room shiraz grapes, grown and tart was a gimlet gin cocktail
for something good in your spare hand.
raised for the Unicorn Hotel made with lime juice and
in Sydney, though it’s now soda. This epically good,
more widely available. Pub Sydney-distilled gin has a
delicious.com.au/drinks
For more seasonal pairings. fare works well, but it’s best spike of citrus that would do
with an old-school meat pie. the job so very, very well.

36 delicious.com.au
A girl needs her space.

Each free range chook has more space than a king size bed.
Because Sunny Queen free range farms have only 1500 hens
per hectare, each chook has more space outdoors than a king
size bed. Maybe that’s why they lay such great tasting eggs.
To see our chooks, go to sunnyqueen.com.au/freerange
HOW TO.

VANILLA & LEMON FROSTING RASPBERRY SWISS MERINGUE


Use as an icing for 1 large cake BUTTERCREAM
or 12 cupcakes. Use as an icing and filling for 1 large
layer cake, or to ice 24 cupcakes.
300g unsalted butter, chopped, You will need a kitchen thermometer.
at room temperature
250g pure icing sugar, sifted 8 eggwhites
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons 500g caster sugar
2 vanilla beans, split, seeds scraped 3 tsp glucose syrup
11/2 tbs milk 500g unsalted butter, chopped,

BASIC
at room temperature
Beat butter, sugar, lemon zest and vanilla 10g freeze-dried raspberry powder
seeds in a stand mixer on medium-high (from gourmet food shops)

INSTINCT
speed for 5 minutes or until thick and
pale. Add the milk, reduce speed to low Place eggwhites, sugar and glucose in a
and beat for a further 1 minute to combine. heatproof bowl. Set bowl over a saucepan
of gently simmering water (don’t let bowl
The king of cakes, pastry chef MIX IT UP touch water). Whisk for 3-4 minutes until
Darren Purchese of Melbourne This works well as an alternative filling sugar dissolves and meringue reaches
sweet studio Burch & Purchese, in a Victoria sandwich. Use any citrus 60°C on a kitchen thermometer. Transfer
spills the sugar on achieving for a variation, but be sure to use to a stand mixer fitted with a whisk
unsalted butter. attachment and whisk on high speed
the perfect icing.
for 10-12 minutes until thick, glossy and
DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE cooled completely. Change mixer to
”Icing is simple in theory but Use as an icing for 1 large cake or a paddle attachment. Add the butter,
difficult to master, so practice 12 cupcakes. You can also make this 1 piece at a time, beating constantly until
makes perfect. For best results, ganache the day before and set aside combined. (If mixture is too warm, the

STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS


use clean bowls and utensils at room temperature overnight. butter may split. If this happens, place in
freezer for 10 minutes to chill, then return
and palette knives and scrapers
350g dark chocolate, chopped to stand mixer and whisk until thick and
without dents in them. You can
350ml thickened cream smooth). Fold in raspberry powder.
use hot water to heat your palette Use buttercream immediately or store
knives to ensure a smoother Place chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Place in a container in the fridge for up to four
finish on your cake, but don’t cream in a saucepan over medium heat days, or freeze for up to 4 weeks. Bring

PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER


heat ganache or buttercream and bring to just below boiling point. the buttercream to room temperature
Remove pan from heat and pour cream before transferring to a stand mixer and
too much as they won’t adhere
over chocolate. Set aside for 30 seconds, beating until smooth and fluffy.
to the cake. Make sure your cake
then gently stir to form a smooth and shiny
is chilled before attempting to ganache. Set aside to cool for 30 minutes, MIX IT UP
ice as the icing may melt. Get then cover with plastic wrap. Set aside at Freeze-dried fruit powders are becoming
inventive with piping bags and room temperature for at least 2 hours or more readily available at gourmet food
nozzles for a final flourish.” until desired consistency. Spread over stores and health food stores, or use
WORDS & RECIPE DARREN PURCHESE

cake using a palette knife. whole freeze-dried fruit and whiz in a


Download our enhanced
App for Cook Mode
food processor for 1 minute. If you are
MIX IT UP having trouble finding them, head online
@burchpurchese @burchpurchese This ganache can be used as a glaze for to Fresh As, a New Zealand brand that
a cake or used as a filling for a chocolate I like to use (fresh-as.com). For a tangier
tart. Simply leave the ganache to cool for version, swap raspberry powder for
delicious.com.au/food-files 30 minutes at room temperature and it will passionfruit powder. Or if you prefer
For more helpful how-tos. be ready to pour over your cake, chocolate a plain Swiss meringue buttercream
mousse or to fill a blind baked case. you can also omit the powder altogether.

38 delicious.com.au
CLOCKWISE
(from top right):
dark chocolate
ganache; raspberry
Swiss meringue
buttercream; vanilla
& lemon frosting.
MEAT MARKET.

Colin Fassnidge and Anthony Puharich admit


they’re both mama’s boys as they reflect on the
kitchen alchemy learnt from their mothers, and
the recipes that shape the way they cook today.

THE CHEF AND


THE BUTCHER
A I love my mum. She is an amazing into office jobs, it was frowned upon if you QUICK PICKLED CABBAGE
woman, hard working – she raised three said you wanted to be a chef or a butcher. 1/4 redcabbage, thinly sliced
kids, and is an incredibly gifted home A You’ve said a lot of things that are using a mandoline
cook. Mother’s Day is a time to spoil her. consistent with my upbringing, and it’s 1 tbs caraway seeds, toasted

STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS


C With what? Kidneys? amazing how what was important to our 2 tbs apple cider vinegar
A Not what I had in mind! Kidneys may be families back then is topical now: no waste,
all the rage in Dublin, but on Mother’s Day secondary cuts, whole food. I ask myself Heat 1 tbs oil in a flameproof casserole
we eat comforting, homely dishes. My why the food my mother cooked tasted so over high heat. Season oxtail, then cook,
Croatian background is about peasant-style good, and it’s because there was a deep turning, for 8 10 minutes until browned.
food, such as braises with humble veg. understanding of flavour and taste. She Remove from pan and set aside. Reduce
C Let me explain what I mean by kidneys. could turn a pig’s ear into a sow’s purse. heat to medium and add vegetables,

PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS


My mum sent me a message after she C They used to feed pig’s ears to the dogs! garlic, bay leaves, thyme and half the sage
saw my menu and said “Kidney, liver and A Oxtail is really popular now, but back to casserole. Cook for 6 minutes or until
hocks – that’s our family, that’s our food”. then it was all my family could afford. softened and slightly golden. Add port
We’d have steak and kidney pie, lots of ham Irrespective of how cheap or undesirable and wine, bring to the boil and simmer
hocks, liver and stews, which I hated. We those cuts of meat might have seemed for 2 minutes, then return oxtail to pan.
had stew every day after school because it to be, my mother put a lot of love into Add ham hock and 1L (4 cups) water
was always cold in Ireland. Now I’ve grown her cooking and she created magic. and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to
up, I realise the work she put into what we medium low, cover and simmer for
ate. I didn’t appreciate it then, but I do now. OXTAIL POT-AU-FEU 31/2 hours, skimming impurities from

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY SHARYN CAIRNS


A So true. SERVES 4 the surface every 30 minutes. Remove
C My mum was a very good cook. Her lid and simmer for a further 30 minutes
life was feeding us. She’d get up early 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil or until sauce is thickened and reduced.
for breakfast, then she’d start working up 1kg oxtail, jointed (ask your butcher) For the cabbage, combine all ingredients
lunch, then dinner, so everything was built 2 onions, chopped with 1/4 tsp sea salt in a bowl. Set aside in
around the table. That’s why I became 3 carrots, cut into 1cm pieces the refrigerator for 30 minutes to pickle.
a chef. Nothing went to waste and she 2 celery stalks, cut into 1cm pieces Heat remaining 2 tbs oil in a frypan
used secondary cuts – we were a working 1 garlic bulb, halved horizontally over high heat. Add the remaining sage
class family. The effort my mother put in, 3 bay leaves leaves and fry for 2 3 minutes until crisp.
I try to do the same for my kids. 1/2 bunch thyme, leaves picked Drain on paper towel.
A That was beautiful Fass. We could 1 bunch sage Shred the ham hock meat and return
INTERVIEW SHANNON HARLEY

have been separated at birth. 300ml port to the pan, discarding the bone. Serve
C Our jobs are the same. When we were 300ml dry white wine the pot au feu with pickled cabbage
growing up, everyone wanted you to get 1 (about 750g) smoked ham hock and top with crisp sage leaves.

Download our enhanced @cfassnidge @fourinhand @askthebutcher_


delicious.com.au/recipes
App for Cook Mode For more slow-cooked meat recipes.

40 delicious.com.au
BUTCHER’S CUT
OXTAIL
Oxtail is the tail of beef or veal, which is jointed into
smaller pieces. The combination of gelatine-rich meat,
a thin layer of fat and a central bone make it one of the
most flavoursome cuts for slow cooking. It makes a great
base for stock, and is commonly used in soups and stews,
or braised until tender and unctuous. Like many affordable
cuts, time will transform it into something spectacular.
I LOVE...
GLOBAL BAKES
Matt Preston awards his baking Oscars, naming
the best in show from Paris to Melbourne.

NO TIME FOR MUCKING around here and spinning some ridiculous (and CHOCOLATE CHAI FUDGE CAKE
probably fictitious) story about what baking means to me, full of sepia-toned SERVES 8-10
images of weathered hands kneading dough. No, we’ve got serious business to Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.
detail the coolest bakes from around the world – no easy task given the global
obsession with combining flour, sugar and butter in baked treats. Perhaps the 1/3 cup (100g) sweetened condensed milk
easiest way is to break it down into category winners – a bit like a bakery Oscars. 13/4 cups (500g) thick Greek-style yoghurt
Puff Pastry: croissant and sfogliatella. Cronuts, cruffins, morning buns out 250g dark (70%) chocolate, chopped
of San Francisco, or the Danish kouign amman (Breton cake) all make quite 250g unsalted butter, chopped
an impression, but for me they’re still not a patch on the simple croissant. 1 firmly packed cup (250g) brown sugar
So, let it be the first of our great bakes. Specifically the flaky, slightly elastic 6 eggs, separated
and supremely crisp croissants at Du Pains et Des Idées in Paris. Or from Lune 2 /3 cup (100g) plain flour

Croissanterie in Melbourne if we’re looking a little closer to home. Add custard, 1 tsp each ground cinnamon and cardamom
or a little cream to puff pastry and enter the wonderful world of millefeuille or 1/2 tsp each ground ginger and star anise

the Portuguese tart with a blistered face and a flaky base. But still, it is the 1/4 tsp each ground cloves and cream of tartar

Neapolitan sfogliatella (lobster tail), with supremely crisp leaves of pastry and 3/4 cup (165g) caster sugar

fillings such as sweetened ricotta with candied fruit, that comes out on top here. Pinch of saffron threads
Choux Pastry: Paris-Brest. Crisp, slightly chewy choux gives us chocolate Toasted cashews, to serve
eclairs and profiteroles, both strong contenders, but the Paris-Brest is champion.
Created to resemble a wheel and filled with waaaay too much creme patissiere, Combine condensed milk and yoghurt in a
praline, cream, or all three, this French choux cake gets the nod for its decadence. bowl. Transfer to a sieve lined with muslin set
Yeast Risen: monkey bread. Add yeast and butter to flour, sugar and perhaps over a bowl. Tie ends together. Chill overnight.
a little egg and baking reaches heights such as Swedish cinnamon buns, the The next day, preheat oven to 170°C. Grease

STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS


Chelsea bun, or obscenely buttery Danishes filled with custard and apricot. Best and line a 23cm springform cake pan with
of all however has to be US monkey bread – sweet yeast dough balls slathered in baking paper. Melt chocolate and butter in a
melted butter, cinnamon, sugar, and chopped pecans. A winner in every sense. heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering
Slice: chocolate caramel slice. The slice is pretty much a unique Aussie water (don’t let bowl touch water) until smooth.
contribution to baking with such beautifully named slices as the jelly slice, the Place brown sugar and 2 tbs water in a pan
Bus Driver’s Mother in Law (honey and almond) slice, the Cherry Ripe slice or over medium heat. Cook for 3-4 minutes until
the Mars bar slice. But the rise of salted caramel with chocolate makes the a caramel. Stir into chocolate and set aside to

PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS


caramel slice, known as millionaire’s slice in the UK, the ultimate choice here. cool. Stir through egg yolks, flour and spices.
Flourless: orange and almond cake. While a rich fudgy Tuscan flourless Beat eggwhites and cream of tartar to soft
torte stabilised with just a spoon of rice flour is the obvious choice, there’s peaks. Fold one-third into chocolate mixture to
something wonderful about the simplicity and reliability of Claudia Roden’s loosen, then fold through remaining eggwhites.
Middle Eastern version of this cake. Especially as it’s almost as easy as boiling Pour into pan and bake for 35-40 minutes until
a couple of oranges, then mixing them with almonds, eggs and baking powder. a skewer inserted comes out clean. Set aside
Cake: Zumbo’s V8 cake and Victoria sponge. In the ‘fancy’ category the to cool slightly, then remove from pan.
mud cake, the cloud-like chiffon, the red velvet cake, the layered Opera and Place the caster sugar, saffron and 3/4 cup
WORDS & RECIPE MATT PRESTON

the classic Black Forest are all cracking examples of great gateaux. But I’d rather (185ml) water in a pan over medium heat. Cook
something modern like Pierre Herme’s large version of his most famous macaron for 8 minutes or until slightly thickened. Cool.
in lychee, rose and raspberry. Paris is a long way to go for cake, so locally, Spread strained yoghurt over cake. Top with
Adriano Zumbo’s V8 cake with its eight textures of vanilla comes up a winner. cashews and drizzle with syrup to serve.
In the simpler category? There’s something perfect about the mix of vanilla,
cream, strawberries and ethereal sponge in a Victoria sponge that can’t be beat. delicious.com.au
Still, to appease the chocoholics, I’ve given a nice recipe for a fudgy chocolate Need more Matt Preston in your life? Head
online for recipes, travel stories and more.
cake loaded with chai spices and topped with sweet yoghurt and saffron syrup.

42 delicious.com.au
I’M LOVING.

Download our
enhanced App
@mattscravat for Cook Mode
MIKE MCENEARNEY.

MAKE IT FROM
SCRATCH
For those with coeliac disease, or people who are sensitive to gluten, pastry is a big
no-no. Well it was until Mike McEnearney stepped up to the plate with his recipes for
sweet and savoury gluten-free pastry, and a galette that’s more nom nom than no-no.

PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

GUT HEALTH IS of paramount The savoury version can be used in tarts, 200g creme fraiche or sour cream
importance to our wellbeing; if your quiches, or rolled thin, docked (pricking 1 cup (100g) Gruyere cheese, grated
gut is struggling it can affect the holes to allow steam to escape), baked, 1 Nicola potato or other waxy potato,
health of your entire body. Many then filled with ricotta and tomatoes, and thinly sliced
ancient sciences and medicines rank topped with a spicy extra virgin olive oil. 1 quantity savoury gluten-free pastry
gut health as the primary focus for
optimum wellness and there has been SAVOURY GLUTEN-FREE PASTRY Melt butter in a large frypan with a lid over
much research in the West in recent This recipe is for savoury pastry. For sweet medium heat. Add leeks, garlic, thyme
years to underpin this. There also omit the salt and add 40g brown sugar. and 2 tbs water. Bring to a simmer, then
seems to be just no getting around cover and cook, stirring every 5 minutes,
the fact that gluten can be a big trigger 1/3 cup (60g) rice flour, plus extra to dust for 20 minutes or until tender. Remove
for gut inflammation in some people. 60g almond meal from heat, transfer leek mixture to a large
If you do have a gluten intolerance, 1/3 cup (50g) buckwheat flour bowl and add creme fraiche, cheese and
don’t be fooled by packaging with 2 tsp cornflour potato slices. Season and stir to combine.
‘gluten-free’ and assume that it means 60g chilled unsalted butter, Chill for 1 hour or until completely cool.
‘healthy’. Always make sure to read the cut into small pieces Meanwhile, place pastry between two
ingredients. My general rule is that if 1 egg pieces of baking paper and roll out to
it has more than six ingredients, most a 35cm x 25cm rectangle. Slide baking
of which you can’t pronounce or have Place the rice flour, almond meal, paper with pastry base onto a baking
numbers attached to them, it’s probably buckwheat flour, cornflour, butter and tray. Chill for 10 minutes to firm up.
more of a science experiment than real 1/2 tsp salt in a food processor and whiz Preheat oven to 180°C. Remove pastry
food! So, if are looking for gluten-free until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. and baking tray from fridge, then top with
options, a great alternative is to make Add the egg and 1 tbs cold water and leek mixture, leaving a 4cm border free
your own. We’re fortunate that so many pulse until pastry comes together. Turn from topping. Use baking paper to help
gluten-free ingredients are now readily out onto a clean work surface, shape into fold over pastry edges. Bake for 40 minutes
available; we don’t have to hunt in a disc, then enclose in plastic wrap. Chill or until the pastry is cooked through and
specialist shops for rice flour or almond for 30 minutes before using. golden. Transfer to a wire rack to cool
meal, and pastry is one of the things that slightly, then slice and serve.
we all want to be able to eat. GLUTEN-FREE POTATO, LEEK
@kitchenbymike @kitchenbymike
If you can’t stomach gluten, I urge & CREME FRAICHE GALETTE
you to give this gluten-free pastry a go. SERVES 6 Download our enhanced
The sweet version works with a variety App for Cook Mode

of fillings from rhubarb and pastry cream 40g unsalted butter


to lemon curd and spiced pumpkin puree. 5 leeks, halved lengthways delicious.com.au/recipes
It can also work as a top for apple pie, 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced For more of Mike’s DIY tips
or crumbled as a base for cheesecake. 1/4 bunch thyme, leaves picked and recipes.

44 delicious.com.au
D I D YO U K N OW
• Gluten, a mixture of proteins found
in wheat, helps bread rise and gives
it its characteristic doughy texture.
This is why good gluten-free breads
can be almost impossible to find.
Pastry, however, isn’t as reliant on
1 gluten, so a good result can usually be
achieved using gluten-free alternatives.

2
STEP-BY-STEP
1. Pulse flours, almond meal
and butter in a food
processor until mixture
resembles breadcrumbs.
Combine with egg and
water to form a dough.
2. After chilling, place pastry
between two sheets of
baking paper and roll out to
a 35cm x 25cm rectangle.
3. Cook leeks until tender
with the butter, garlic,
thyme and water. Allow
to cool then stir through
creme fraiche and potato.
4. Spread filling over pastry,
leaving a 4cm border, then
fold over edges.
5. Bake for 40 minutes or
until cooked through. The
dough can be made sweet
3 or savoury and be used
with different fillings.
4
5
MASTERCHEF.

SPICED APPLE CHELSEA BUNS


MAKES 8

7g sachet dried instant yeast


1/2 cup (125ml) milk, warmed
11/2 tbs caster sugar
21/2 cups (375g) plain flour, sifted
225g unsalted butter, cut into pieces
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon,
plus 1 tsp lemon juice
1 tsp mixed spice
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/2 firmly packed cup (125g) brown sugar

1 cup (170g) grated Granny Smith apple


80g goat’s cheese
11/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/3 cup (50g) pine nuts, toasted

1/3 cup (120g) honey

1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped

STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY NIGEL LOUGH


Combine the yeast, milk, 1 tsp caster sugar
and 1 tbs flour in a bowl. Set aside for
10 minutes or until frothy.
Rub 125g butter into remaining flour
until crumbs form. Stir in zest, mixed spice,
remaining sugar and a pinch of salt. Make

MADE IN
a well in the centre, add egg and yeast
mixture. Stir to combine. Turn out onto
a floured surface and knead until smooth

CHELSEA
and elastic. Place in an oiled bowl. Cover
with a clean tea towel. Set aside in a warm
place for 1 hour or until doubled in size.
Billie McKay serves up her own creative take Preheat oven to 210°C. Grease a 20cm x
on a childhood favourite, the Chelsea bun. 30cm baking dish. Combine brown sugar
and remaining 100g butter in a bowl. Knock
I AM A HUGE FAN of all things pastry. If it’s sweet, shiny, golden back dough. Roll out on a floured surface
and sticky, I’m as happy as a kid in a sweet, well, pastry shop. until 40cm x 20cm. Brush with butter,

PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS


My sisters and I would make Chelsea buns when we were leaving a 1cm gap on long edges. Sprinkle
growing up, the only problem was that in a household of seven with apple, cheese, cinnamon and pine
they were always demolished within the hour! But we all still make nuts. Roll up from long edge and cut into
them now, which is a true testament to how delicious they are. 8 pieces. Place buns close together on tray,
Chelsea buns are sweet scrolls made from a yeast-risen dough seams facing in, and flatten slightly. Cover
enriched with egg. The dough is risen, rolled out, spread with and set aside for 30 minutes or until slightly
brown sugar and butter, sprinkled with dried fruit, candied citrus risen. Bake for 20 minutes or until golden.
and sweet spices, then rolled up and cut into rounds. It’s then Meanwhile, to make glaze, place honey,
left to rise again, baked and finally glazed with sugar. lemon juice and vanilla pod and seeds in a
WORDS & RECIPE BILLIE McKAY

I don’t usually change recipes that have always served me well, pan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer.
but I was making Chelsea buns recently and halfway through, Remove from heat and cool slightly.
Download our
realised I had no dried fruit. I must admit I don’t mind this kind enhanced App Brush glaze over hot buns to serve.
of conundrum, it’s how new recipes are born. The result was a for Cook Mode
sweet/savoury apple, pine nut and goat’s cheese Chelsea bun,
finished with a drizzle of vanilla-infused honey. This recipe is delicious.com.au/recipes
For more of Billie’s recipes.
sure to satisfy and you’ll be lucky if they last morning tea hour! @billie_mckay15

46 delicious.com.au
BAKE CLUB.

EASY VANILLA CAKE WITH


PASSIONFRUIT BUTTERCREAM
SERVES 8-10

125g unsalted butter, cut into pieces,


at room temperature, plus melted
butter to grease
1 cup (150g) self-raising flour
1/4 cup (35g) plain flour

3/4 cup (165g) caster sugar

1/3 cup (80ml) milk

2 eggs, at room temperature


11/2 tsp natural vanilla extract

PASSIONFRUIT BUTTERCREAM
125g unsalted butter, at room
temperature
11/2 cups (180g) pure icing sugar, sifted
1 tbs passionfruit pulp, plus extra to
decorate

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease a 20cm


round cake pan with melted butter and
line the base with baking paper.
Place the self-raising and plain flours,
sugar, milk, eggs, vanilla and remaining
125g butter in the bowl of a stand mixer.

WORDS & RECIPE ANNEKA MANNING PHOTOGRAPHY ALAN BENSON STYLING BHAVANI KONINGS
Beat on low speed until combined, then
increase the speed to high and beat for
3 minutes or until well combined and
very pale in colour. Spoon into the
prepared pan, smoothing the surface

CLASS ACT with the back of a spoon.

Recipe and image from BakeClass by Anneka Manning (Murdoch Books), $45.
Bake for 45-50 minutes until a skewer
inserted into the centre comes out clean.
Baking guru Anneka Manning shares her Remove from oven and leave to cool in
secrets in new book, BakeClass, so all you the pan for 5 minutes before turning out
onto a wire rack to cool completely (this
need to do is measure, beat and bake.
will take about 11/2 hours).
MY CHILDHOOD was filled with Mum’s homemade sponges – For the passionfruit buttercream, place
iced for afternoon tea, with Granny’s chocolate sauce on special butter, icing sugar and passionfruit pulp
occasions. I do love a sponge, but there’s nothing like a simple in the bowl of a stand mixer and beat until
vanilla cake – and this one really personifies simplicity. pale and creamy.
Made using my ‘measure and beat’ method, the ingredients Spread the passionfruit buttercream
for this cake are all simply thrown into a bowl together and beaten over the top of the cooled cake, then
– it really couldn’t get any easier. Topped with an easy passionfruit spoon over the extra passionfruit pulp to
Download our
buttercream (which uses the same no-fuss method), this cake enhanced App decorate. Serve in wedges.
makes a wonderful standby for any occasion and is definitely one for Cook Mode
to add to your baking repertoire. BakeClass (Murdoch Books,
$45), by Anneka Manning, is available in bookshops nationally. delicious.com.au/recipes
For more easy baking recipes.
To book a bake class with Anneka, visit: limeandtonic.com.au. @bakeclub_australia

48 delicious.com.au
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54 delicious.com.au
SAVOUR

delicious.com.au 55
SOUTHERN
HOSPITALITY
Canadian-born Sydney restaurateur Brody Petersen and wife Liesel look to the US
for inspiration for a relaxed autumn barbecue with friends in their Bondi home.
RECIPES REGAN PORTEOUS PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS
STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS WORDS DAVID MATTHEWS
ENTERTAINING.

@rileystgarage
@surlys_bbq_and_beer
@thestuffedbeaverbondi
@thevillageinnpaddington

Download our
enhanced App
for Cook Mode

delicious.com.au 57
A lip-smacking Southern US menu might
be a step away from Brody Petersen’s
Canadian roots, but he and Australian wife
Liesel have become addicts after opening
Surly’s, an American-themed barbecue joint, in Sydney’s Surry
Hills, where the menu skirts across the Southern states in a
best-of line-up of slow-smoked brisket with pickles, hot wings,
sticky pork ribs, house-made cornbread and much more.
Surly’s is one of several restaurants run by the couple through
Parlour Group, including Canadian dive bar The Stuffed Beaver
in Bondi, doling out poutine and Bloody Caesars, and Art Deco
Riley Street Garage in Woolloomooloo – “a big warehouse-style
venue where you can have a $100 banquet all sat at the bar,”
says Brody. There’s more to come, too. They’ve just taken over
The Village Inn in Paddington, where they’re aiming to capture
the generosity and honesty of a classic London pub. All venues
are unique, and hit the spot for different crowds – Canadians
flock to the Beaver, Americans can’t get enough of Surly’s, Riley
Street Garage does NYC brasserie dining and The Village Inn
is one for the locals.
Surly’s has inspired their take on today’s barbecue, with
friends from around the neighbourhood tucking into a spread
of glazed pork ribs, sweet potatoes and apple slab pie under
the autumn sun in the backyard of their Bondi home – a relaxed
space designed according to Liesel’s vision. “The house is
inspired by the area we live in. So there’s a palette of blues,
greys and whites, which I really like,” she explains. Friends
gather in the kitchen, sip iced tea or Laurent Perrier and move
seamlessly between the open kitchen and living room into the
backyard. “It’s a really nice indoor-outdoor feel, we designed
it like that to flow out to the backyard.”
“We entertain all the time,” adds Brody. “In summer we put a
blow-up pool in the backyard and the kids [Harper, 6 and Inès, 2]
will be running around. Kids love barbecue, right, whether it’s
hamburgers, hot dogs, just eating with your hands. And when
it comes to the adults we’ll do some relaxed food, fill the esky
with cans of Blue Ribbon and sit out in the yard all day.” And for
them, relaxed is best. “Eating is about the whole experience,
getting messy – it’s not sitting down with a knife and fork, it’s
about getting your fingers dirty and having fun.”

OPENER (guests, from left): Brody Petersen; hairstylist and Bondi local
Donna Purnell; reality TV star and co-owner of Luis Tans in Bondi, Nathan
Jolliffe; model Iwona Lau; Parlour Group’s Bay Kilpatrick; husband of
Iwona and director/producer Anthony Lau; Liesel Petersen. (Food):
twice-cooked spare ribs with bourbon glaze (recipe 60); Graunty Janna’s
cheesy jalapeno cornbread (recipe 62).
ENTERTAINING.

delicious.com.au 59
ENTERTAINING.

1/2 cup (125ml) olive oil


1/3 cup (80ml) maple syrup
2 tbs brown sugar
3 rosemary sprigs
1 tbs malt vinegar
100g feta, crumbled
1/4 cup (40g) pepitas (pumpkin seeds),

toasted
1/2 cup snow pea shoots

Soak potato in cold water for 45 minutes to


soften. Drain and pat dry with paper towel.
Preheat oven to 200°C. Grease and line
a large baking tray with baking paper.
Toss sweet potato, oil, maple, sugar and
rosemary in a bowl. Season. Spread sweet
potato over prepared tray. Roast, tossing
every 20 minutes, for 40-45 minutes until
cooked through and slightly caramelised.
Drizzle malt vinegar over sweet potato,
then scatter over feta, pepitas and snow
peas to serve.

TWICE-COOKED SPARE RIBS


WITH BOURBON GLAZE
SERVES 6
Store extra bourbon glaze in an airtight
container in the fridge for up to 1 month.

ICED GREEN TEA WITH GINGER 2 cups (500ml) vegetable stock 2kg pork spare rib racks
SERVES 6 1 tbs molasses 1L (4 cups) chicken stock
1 tsp mustard powder 150ml apple juice
4 green tea bags 2 x 400g cans adzuki red beans, 100ml Worcestershire sauce
2 x 237ml bottles ginger syrup rinsed, drained
(from supermarkets) 400g can kidney beans, rinsed, drained BOURBON GLAZE
1 lemon, sliced 1 cup (250ml) bourbon whisky
Mint leaves, jasmine flowers and ice Preheat oven to 180°C. Heat oil in an 440g brown sugar
cubes, to serve ovenproof frypan over medium heat. 1 cup (250ml) tomato sauce
Cook bacon and onion, stirring, for 1/2 cup (175g) honey

In a large heatproof jug, place tea bags 3-4 minutes until softened. Add tomato 2 tsp hot sauce (we used Sriracha)
and 1L (4 cups) hot water. Steep tea for sauce, stock, molasses and mustard 2 tbs apple cider vinegar
5-10 minutes, then remove tea bags. powder, and stir to combine. Bring to a 1 tsp each onion and garlic powder
Stir in ginger syrup, then chill until cold. simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low 1 tsp smoked paprika (pimenton)
To serve, add lemon, mint and jasmine and cook for 15 minutes or until thickened 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper (optional)

flowers. Top up jug with ice to serve. slightly. Add beans and stir to combine.
Transfer to oven and bake for 45 minutes Preheat oven to 180°C. Place ribs in a
SOUTHERN-STYLE BAKED BEANS or until beans are thickly coated in sauce. large roasting pan and cover with stock,
SERVES 6 AS A SIDE juice and Worcestershire sauce. Cover
MAPLE-CANDIED SWEET POTATO pan with foil and roast for 2 hours or
1 tbs olive oil SERVES 6 AS A SIDE until meat is tender. Remove from oven.
150g bacon rashers, sliced Drain, discarding liquid. Set ribs aside.
1 onion, chopped 1kg sweet potatoes, peeled, Meanwhile, for the bourbon glaze,
1/2 cup (125ml) tomato sauce cut into 3cm pieces place all ingredients in a saucepan over

60 delicious.com.au
ABOVE RIGHT:
iced green tea
with ginger.
BELOW RIGHT:
maple-candied
sweet potato.
OPPOSITE:
Southern-style
baked beans.
ENTERTAINING.

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon


1 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground allspice

3cm fresh ginger, finely grated


11/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg

2 tbs plain flour


1 egg, lightly beaten
Double cream, to serve

SOUR CREAM PASTRY


31/2 cups (500g) plain flour,
400g unsalted butter, chopped
250g sour cream

Combine apple, sugar, lemon zest and


juice, and spices in a bowl. Set aside for
2 hours or until the apples are softened.
Strain apple liquid into a small saucepan,
reserving apples. Place pan over medium
heat and bring to the boil. Cook for
15 minutes or until reduced and syrupy.
Set aside to cool completely.
For the pastry, place flour and butter
in a bowl and toss to coat. Turn out onto
a cool, clean work surface, then, using a
pastry cutter, cut butter into flour until it
medium heat. Bring to the boil, 50g pickled jalapeno, drained, chopped resembles very coarse crumbs (leave some
then reduce heat to low and simmer 1 tsp dried chilli flakes big pieces of butter, as this will ensure a
for 11/2-2 hours until reduced by half flaky crust). Make a well in the centre of
and a thick glaze forms. Set aside. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Grease and flour mixture, add sour cream and 1/4 cup
Preheat a barbecue or chargrill pan line a 22cm x 7cm x 7cm-deep loaf pan (60ml) iced water. Carefully fold flour
to medium heat. Cook ribs, turning and with baking paper. mixture into water until you have a rough
brushing with glaze, for 10 minutes or until Combine the polenta, cornflour, sugar, dough. Add a little extra water if needed.
slightly charred and warmed through. baking powder and 1 tsp salt in a bowl. Divide pastry into 2 portions and enclose
Serve with extra glaze on the side. In a separate bowl, whisk butter, buttermilk in plastic wrap. Chill for at least 1 hour.
and egg until combined. Add butter Roll out 1 portion of pastry on a lightly
GRAUNTY JANNA’S CHEESY mixture to polenta mixture and fold to floured work surface to a 3mm-thick
JALAPENO CORNBREAD combine. Fold in cheese, jalapeno and rectangle and use to line a 20cm x 30cm
SERVES 6 chilli flakes, then pour into pan. Bake for brownie pan. Chill for 30 minutes. Roll out
“Brody’s graunty (great aunty) Janna is 50-55 minutes, covering with foil for the remaining pastry until 3mm thick. Use a
the most divine lady! She’s lives on Mudge, final 30 minutes of cooking to prevent it knife to make small crosses all over pastry.
a small island near Vancouver Island and from browning too quickly, until a skewer Toss apple and cooled syrup with flour.
her cornbread is delicious”. Liesel inserted comes out clean. Cool slightly, Spread over base. Brush edges with
then turn out onto a wire rack. beaten egg, cover with pricked pastry
200g polenta and press edges together to seal. Trim
11/3 cups (200g) cornflour APPLE & GINGER SLAB PIE the excess pastry with a knife, brush with
11/2 tbs caster sugar SERVES 10 beaten egg and sprinkle with extra 2 tsp
11/2 tsp baking powder sugar. Chill for a further 30 minutes.
60g unsalted butter, melted, cooled 1.5kg (about 10) Granny Smith apples, Preheat oven to 180°C. Bake pie for
350ml buttermilk peeled, chopped 50-55 minutes until golden. Set aside
1 egg, lightly beaten 11/2 cups (330g) caster sugar, for 10 minutes before slicing.
125g sharp cheddar, grated plus 2 tsp extra to sprinkle Serve pie warm with dollops of cream.

62 delicious.com.au
SET
THE
SCENE
MENU
Recently we’ve done
barbecues because
they’re relaxed, easy
and outdoors. We
might pick a main
and then do corn
on the cob, green
beans and seasonal
veg. Keep it simple.

TABLE
Mud Australia has
beautiful and organic
plate-ware. We also
have a lot of Merci
ABOVE: Liesel linen from Paris or
with eldest
fun prints to mix up
daughter Harper.
BELOW: iced the colour scheme;
green tea with I keep a neutral
ginger (recipe palette then spice
p 60). OPPOSITE: it up with linens,
apple & ginger
food and flowers.
slab pie.

PLAYLIST
We really like 70s and
80s rock, Steve Miller
or Creedence
Clearwater Revival.
Everyone sings along.
Or a bit of early 90s:
Farside, Jurassic 5,
Souls of Mischief.
Music from when
we were teenagers.

DRINKS
We always throw
some cans of beer in
an esky. Just simple
– Melbourne Bitter,
VB or Pabst Blue
Ribbon. But we like
Laurent Perrier
Champagne, nice
delicious.com.au/entertaining rosé, or some iced
Want more tips and tricks from Australia’s tea (maybe spiked
top entertainers? Head online for guides.
a little) to start.
Roasted strawberry &
cream pie (recipe p 69).
OPPOSITE: rhubarb,
strawberry, balsamic
& thyme pie (recipe p 66).
EXCLUSIVE EXTRACT.

LIFE OF PIE
Perfectly flaky, buttery, crunchy crusts with luscious sweet fillings – is there
anything better than a slice of homemade pie? Here our very own delicious.
senior food editor Phoebe Wood and style editor Kirsten Jenkins share
a slice from their beautiful new book, The Pie Project.
PHOTOGRAPHY & STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

delicious.com.au 65
“THE PIE PROJECT IS ALL ABOUT
EXPERIMENTATION, APPRECIATION
AND ENJOYMENT – WE WANT PEOPLE
TO EXPERIENCE THE WONDERFUL
ANTICIPATION AND JOY OF BAKING.
THIS BOOK ISN’T ABOUT FINE-DINING
DESSERTS, THESE ARE JUST GOOD
RECIPES FOR THE HOME COOK. WE
HOPE THAT EVERY PIE YOU MAKE
TELLS A NEW STORY, AND YOU MAKE
IT YOUR OWN PERSONAL PIE PROJECT.”
Download our enhanced
@thepieprojectcookbook App for Cook Mode

BLACKBERRY & GINGER PIE of flour mixture and add vinegar water in RHUBARB, STRAWBERRY,
SERVES 6 3 batches, working it in with your hands to BALSAMIC & THYME PIE
If you can’t find a 17cm pie dish, make form a rough dough (you may not need all SERVES 8
another half batch of pastry to fit a the water). Discard ice. Shape into a disc,
20cm pie dish. wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 3 hours. 2 × 435g frozen Careme vanilla bean
Roll out one-third of the pastry on pastry, thawed, or other store-bought
500g frozen blackberries a lightly floured work surface to form sweet shortcrust pastry rolled to
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar a 20cm × 15cm rectangle, 3mm thick. a thickness of 3mm
1/2 cup (160g) cherry or raspberry jam Cut into fifteen 8mm × 20cm strips. 1kg rhubarb, trimmed, cut into 5cm
25g crystallised (candied) ginger, Place them on a baking tray and cover pieces
chopped with plastic wrap. Roll out the rest of the 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped
2 tsp cornflour pastry to a thickness of 3mm and line the 1 cup (220g) caster sugar
1 egg, lightly beaten with 1 tbs water base and side of a 17cm × 3cm-deep pie 3 thyme sprigs

This is an edited extract from The Pie Project by Phoebe Wood & Kirsten Jenkins,
1 tbs demerara sugar dish. Chill all the pastry for 30 minutes. 2 tsp cornflour
Thickened cream, to serve Cook blackberries, caster sugar, jam 500g strawberries, hulled, halved
and ginger in a pan over medium heat 2 tbs balsamic vinegar
PASTRY for 15 minutes or until syrupy. Stir 1/4 cup 1 egg, lightly beaten
11/3 cups (200g) plain flour (60ml) syrup with cornflour until smooth. 1 tbs demerara sugar, to sprinkle
1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar Return cornflour mixture to pan and cook
1/4 tsp fine sea salt for a further 4 minutes or until thickened. Preheat oven to 180°C. Line a 20cm pie
125g cold unsalted butter, Remove from heat. Cool completely. dish with one of the pastry sheets, leaving
cut into 2cm cubes Pour the filling into the pastry-lined a 1cm overhang. Line the pastry case with published by Hardie Grant Books, RRP $29.99.

2 tsp apple cider vinegar mixed with 1/3 dish. Make a loose lattice top with the baking paper, fill with baking beads (or
cup (80ml) cold water and 4 ice cubes chilled strips and place it over the filling. uncooked rice or dried beans) and bake
Press the edges to seal and trim any for 15 minutes or until pastry is just dry
For the pastry, combine flour, sugar and excess pastry. Freeze for 1 hour. and light golden. Remove paper and
PORTRAIT SIMON KELLY

salt in a bowl. Add butter and toss to coat. Preheat oven to 200°C. Brush pastry with baking beads and leave to cool. Cut the
Turn out onto a clean work surface and, egg wash and scatter with demerara sugar. remaining pastry sheet into eight 4cm
using a pastry cutter (or flat-bladed knife), Place on a baking tray. Bake for 30 minutes strips. Chill strips while you make the filling.
roughly cut butter into flour (leaving some or until light golden. Reduce oven to 180°C Cook the rhubarb, vanilla, caster sugar
large chunks of butter so the pastry will be and cook for 30 minutes or until golden. and thyme sprigs with 1/4 cup (60ml) water
nice and flaky). Create a well in the centre Rest for 30 minutes. Serve with cream. in a large deep frypan over medium heat.

66 delicious.com.au
EXCLUSIVE EXTRACT.

Blackberry &
ginger pie
Nutella pie
EXCLUSIVE EXTRACT.

Carefully stir until sugar starts to dissolve, dough (you may not need all of the water). Toss together strawberries, vanilla pod
then reduce the heat to medium-low, Discard ice cubes. Shape into a rough disc and seeds, maple syrup and thyme on a
cover and simmer for 8 minutes or until and wrap in plastic wrap. Chill for 3 hours. baking tray lined with baking paper, and
the rhubarb is almost tender. Using a Roll out pastry on a lightly floured work roast for 16 minutes or until softened and
slotted spoon, transfer the rhubarb to surface to a thickness of 3mm. Use pastry slightly syrupy. Cool to room temperature.
a colander set over a bowl and discard to line the base and side of a 22cm pie dish Whisk mascarpone, cream, icing sugar
the thyme sprigs. Leave to drain very well. leaving 3cm overhang. Using your thumb and vanilla bean paste in a bowl until thick.
Combine rhubarb syrup with cornflour and index finger, pinch the overhang to Spread into the cooled pie crust and top
and return to the pan set over medium form a fluted edge. Freeze for 30 minutes. with roasted strawberries and their syrup.
heat. Boil for 10 minutes or until thick Preheat oven to 200°C. Line pastry case
and syrupy. Set aside to cool completely. with baking paper and fill with baking beads HONEY & GINGER
Carefully fold rhubarb through syrup (or uncooked rice or dried beans). Bake for BRULEE PIE
followed by the strawberries and balsamic 25 minutes or until pastry is a light golden SERVES 8
vinegar. Spread cooled filling into pastry. colour. Remove paper and baking beads, You will need a kitchen blowtorch.
Make a tight lattice top with the chilled and bake for a further 5 minutes or until
strips and place it over the filling. Trim any base is just dry. Remove from oven and 370g gingernut biscuits
excess, pinching the edges to seal. Brush leave to cool. Reduce oven to 140°C. 100g unsalted butter, melted,
with the beaten egg and sprinkle with the For the filling, whisk the Nutella, eggs and cooled
demerara sugar. Place on a baking tray egg yolks, and the cream in a bowl until 1/2 cup (175g) honey

and bake for 55 minutes or until golden. smooth. Whisk flour with 1/4 cup Nutella 2 tsp vanilla bean paste
Rest for 30 minutes before serving. mixture until smooth, then stir into the rest 600ml pure (thin) cream
of the mixture to combine. Strain into the 1/2 cup (110g) chopped crystallised

NUTELLA PIE cooled pastry case and bake for 1 hour or (candied) ginger
SERVES 12 until the edge is set but there is still a gentle 6 egg yolks
wobble in the centre. Cool pie to room 3 tsp cornflour
400g Nutella temperature, then serve topped with nuts. 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar

3 eggs, plus 2 egg yolks


400ml pure (thin) cream ROASTED STRAWBERRY Pulse the biscuits in a food processor to
1 tbs plain flour & CREAM PIE crumbs. Add the butter and pulse again
30g roasted hazelnuts, some left whole SERVES 10 to combine. Press crumb mixture into the
and some roughly crushed, to serve base and sides of a 24cm loose-bottomed
435g frozen Careme vanilla bean pastry, fluted tart pan. Freeze for 1 hour.
PASTRY thawed, or other store-bought sweet Place honey, vanilla, cream and ginger
11/3 cups (200g) plain flour shortcrust rolled to a thickness of 3mm in a saucepan over medium heat and bring
1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar 750g strawberries, hulled, halved if large to just below boiling point, stirring to
1/4 tsp fine sea salt 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped combine. Set aside to infuse for 30 minutes.
125g cold unsalted butter, 2 tbs maple syrup Preheat oven to 150°C. Whisk egg yolks
cut into 2cm pieces 1 thyme sprig, plus extra to decorate with cornflour in a heatproof bowl until
2 tsp apple cider vinegar mixed 500g mascarpone cheese pale. Return cream mixture to a simmer,
with 1/3 cup (80ml) cold water 11/2 cups (375ml) thickened cream then pour over the egg yolks and stir to
and 4 ice cubes 1/3 cup (40g) pure icing sugar combine. Transfer to a clean saucepan
1 tsp vanilla bean paste and cook over medium-low heat, stirring
For the pastry, combine flour, sugar and constantly, for 6 minutes or until thickened.
salt in a bowl. Add butter pieces and toss Preheat oven to 200°C. Line base and side Strain through a fine sieve into a clean
to coat. Turn out onto a clean work surface of a 22cm × 5cm-deep pie dish with pastry bowl, pressing down to extract as much
and, using a pastry cutter (or flat-bladed and trim away the excess. Line pastry case flavour from ginger as possible.
knife), roughly cut the butter into the flour with baking paper and fill with baking beads Pour into biscuit case, then bake for
mixture (leave some large chunks of butter (or uncooked rice or dried beans). Place on 30 minutes or until set at the edge but with
as this will help the pastry to become nice a baking tray. Cook for 20 minutes or until a distinct wobble in the centre. Remove from
and flaky as it cooks). golden, then remove baking beads and oven and cool to room temperature, then
Create a well in the centre of the flour paper. Cook for a further 5 minutes or until chill for 4 hours or until completely cold.
mixture and add vinegar water in 3 batches, base is dry to the touch. Set aside and leave Scatter top with sugar, then caramelise
working it in with your hands to form a rough to cool completely. Keep oven on. with a kitchen blowtorch before serving.

delicious.com.au 69
EXCLUSIVE EXTRACT.

floured work surface to 32cm × 17cm.


Use to line two 23cm × 10cm x 3cm-deep
pie dishes. Trim the edges to neaten, but
allow some excess to overhang the sides.
Chill for 1 hour.
For the pear filling, place the pears,
muscovado sugar, maple syrup and
1.25L (5 cups) water in a saucepan over
medium-low heat. Cover with a cartouche
(a circle of baking paper) and bring to
a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and
cook gently for 1 hour or until the syrup
is dark golden and the pears are tender.
Let the pears cool in the syrup, then
remove the pears from the syrup and
simmer 1 cup (250ml) syrup in a saucepan
over high heat for 15 minutes or until
thickened. Leave to cool.
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Line the
two pie dishes with baking paper and
baking beads (or uncooked rice or dried
beans) and blind bake for 15 minutes or
until the edges are just dry. Remove the
beads and paper and bake the cases
for a further 5 minutes or until the bases
are just dry. Leave to cool completely.
Reduce the oven temperature to 160°C.
For the brown butter custard, melt the
PEAR, MAPLE SYRUP & BROWN BROWN BUTTER CUSTARD butter in a saucepan over medium-high
BUTTER PIES WITH CINNAMON 120g unsalted butter heat for 6 minutes or until it is nut brown.
SPELT CRUST 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped Add the vanilla seeds and remove from
SERVES 12 2 eggs the heat. Whisk the eggs and sugar in a
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar bowl, then whisk the butter mixture into
3 hard, crisp pears (such as beurre bosc), 1/3 cup (50g) plain flour the egg mixture to combine. Whisk in the
peeled flour until smooth. Divide between the
1 cup (250g) dark muscovado sugar For the spelt pastry, combine the flour, cooled pastry cases.
1 cup (250ml) maple syrup cinnamon, sugar and salt in a bowl. Add Thickly slice pears and arrange in the
Double cream, to serve the butter pieces and toss to coat. Turn pastry cases, allowing the pears to rest on
out onto a clean work surface and, using a top of the custard. Bake for 20 minutes or
SPELT PASTRY pastry cutter (or flat-bladed knife), roughly until the custard is just set. Remove from
22 /3 cups (400g) spelt flour cut the butter into the flour. Make a well in the oven and cool to room temperature.
2 tsp ground cinnamon the centre and gradually add the vinegar Drizzle with the thickened pear syrup and
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar water in 3 batches, mixing together with serve with thick cream.
1/2 tsp fine sea salt your hands, until a coarse dough forms.
250g cold unsalted butter, chopped Divide in half, shape into discs and wrap
2 tbs apple cider vinegar mixed in plastic wrap. Chill for at least 3 hours. delicious.com.au/recipes
with 1/2 cup (125ml) cold water Working with one piece of pastry at Need more pie? Head online for our
collection of the best-ever pie recipes.
and 4 ice cubes a time, roll out each piece on a lightly

70 delicious.com.au
Pear, maple syrup &
brown butter pies with
cinnamon spelt crust.
OPPOSITE: honey
& ginger brulee pie
(recipe p 69).
THE SPICE
OF LIFE When it comes to vegetarian inspiration,
Valli Little looks to the bold flavours of the
subcontinent to create a banquet fit for a Maharaja.
PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
VALLI’S KITCHEN DIARY.

Indian samosa pie


with minted yoghurt.
OPPOSITE: tandoori
eggplant skewers
(recipes p 74).

delicious.com.au 73 
VALLI’S KITCHEN DIARY.

IT’S FUNNY HOW RECIPE writing takes you on a journey. This feature was going to be a
vegetarian dinner party, starting with the spiced carrot and lentil soup, but as I thought about
the other recipes, more and more warm spices with a particular nod to the Indian subcontinent
made me decide on creating an Indian-themed feast.
The hero dish is a lovely flaky samosa pie with buttery homemade pastry that makes for
a great centrepiece. I like to serve it with a minted yoghurt and a glazed pumpkin and crispy
chickpea salad topped with fried paneer, which can also make a light midweek meal on its own.
I had planned to serve gulab jamun (Indian doughnuts soaked in a sugar syrup) for dessert,
but my journey took me to the filled doughnuts that are so on trend right now. They are filled
with shrikhand, a sweetened Indian yoghurt, and are absolutely addictive.

GLAZED PUMPKIN WITH CRISPY 250g thick Greek-style yoghurt 1 tbs grated ginger
CHICKPEAS AND PANEER 2 tbs tomato paste 1 long red chilli, seeds removed,
SERVES 6 1 tbs grated ginger chopped
1 tsp sweet smoked paprika (pimenton) 1 tsp Madras curry powder
1/2 cup (160g) mango chutney 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp cumin seeds
11/2 tsp coriander seeds, crushed 1 tsp garam masala (Indian spice mix) 1 tbs tomato paste
11/4 tsp biryani spice mix (from Herbie’s 11/2 tbs mustard oil 1 tbs mango pickle (from supermarkets)
Spices), plus extra to serve 1 red onion, sliced 1 egg
Juice of 2 limes 1/3 cup (80ml) white wine vinegar 1 tbs caraway seeds
1.2kg Kent pumpkin, cut into 3cm pieces 1 tsp caster sugar 1 tbs nigella seeds
400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained Mint leaves and lime wedges, to serve
1/2 cup (140g) thick Greek-style yoghurt MINTED YOGHURT
1 tbs coconut oil Combine eggplant with 2 tbs salt in a bowl. 200g thick Greek-style yoghurt
400g paneer, cut into 3cm pieces Set aside for 11/2 hours. Rinse and dry well 1 cup firmly packed mint leaves
Mint leaves, coriander leaves and mango with paper towel. Thread onto skewers. 1 red (Asian) eschalot, chopped
pickle (from supermarkets), to serve Preheat oven to 200°C. Combine malt 1 garlic clove, chopped
vinegar, yoghurt, tomato paste, spices and 2 tsp caster sugar
Preheat oven to 200°C. Combine chutney, oil in a bowl. Brush skewers, then place
coriander seeds, 1 tsp biryani and half the skewers on a baking-paper lined baking Place flour and butter in a bowl with 1/2 tsp
lime juice in a bowl. Season. Add pumpkin tray. Roast, basting and turning skewers salt. Rub together until it resembles large
and chickpeas and toss to coat. Place on occasionally, for 30 minutes or until tender. breadcrumbs. Add 2/3 cup (165ml) chilled
a baking paper-lined baking tray. Roast for Increase heat to 250°C and cook for a water, 1 tbs at a time, stirring, until a rough
1 hour, then increase heat to 250°C and further 5 minutes or until charred. dough forms. Shape into a ball, then turn
roast for a further 10 minutes or until Combine the onion, white vinegar, onto a floured work surface. Roll to a
pumpkin is golden and chickpeas are crisp. sugar and 1 tsp salt in a bowl. Set aside 30cm x 20cm rectangle. Bring one short
Meanwhile, combine yoghurt, remaining for 10 minutes to pickle. end into the centre, and fold the other on
biryani and lime juice in a bowl. Season. Serve eggplant skewers with pickled top to enclose and form 3 layers. Rotate
Heat 2 tsp oil in a non-stick frypan over onion, mint and lime to squeeze over. 90 degrees. Repeat rolling, folding and
medium-high heat. Cook half the paneer turning five more times until smooth.
for 3 minutes each side or until golden. INDIAN SAMOSA PIE WITH Enclose in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour.
Repeat with remaining paneer and oil. MINTED YOGHURT Meanwhile, place potato in a pan of cold
Spread pumpkin, paneer and chickpeas SERVES 6 salted water over medium heat. Cook for
on a platter, top with yoghurt and herbs. 15-20 minutes until tender, adding peas
Serve with extra biryani and mango pickle. 2 cups (300g) bread and pizza flour for the final 2 minutes of cooking. Drain.
(strong flour) Heat oil in a pan over medium heat. Add
TANDOORI EGGPLANT SKEWERS 180g cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces onion and fry, stirring, for 5-6 minutes until
SERVES 4-6 400g potatoes, cut into 1cm pieces soft. Add garlic, ginger, chilli, curry powder
You will need metal skewers. 11/4 cup (150g) frozen peas and cumin, and cook, stirring, for a further
11/2 tbs coconut oil or ghee 1 minute or until fragrant. Add peas and
3 eggplants, cut into 3cm pieces 1 onion, finely chopped potatoes, season, then stir through tomato
1 tbs malt vinegar 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped paste and mango pickle. Chill.

74 delicious.com.au
Glazed pumpkin
with crispy chickpeas
and paneer
VALLI’S KITCHEN DIARY.

Spiced carrot & lentil


soup. OPPOSITE:
Indian doughnuts.

@vallilittle

Download our enhanced


App for Cook Mode
Preheat oven to 200°C. Divide pastry in
two. Roll out one piece on a floured work
surface to 40cm x 25cm rectangle. Place
on a baking tray lined with baking paper.
Place filling in centre of pastry, leaving a
3-4cm border. Roll out remaining pastry
to 30cm x 20cm. Beat egg with 2 tbs cold
water, then brush a little over edges of
larger pastry. Lay smaller pastry over filling,
using a fork to crimp edges. Brush with
egg, and make a few incisions in the top.
Sprinkle over caraway and nigella. Bake for
25 minutes, then increase heat to 220°C and
cook for a further 15 minutes or until golden.
For minted yoghurt, place all ingredients
in a food processor. Whiz until smooth.
Serve pie with the minted yoghurt.

SPICED CARROT & LENTIL SOUP


SERVES 4-6

1 tbs extra virgin olive oil INDIAN DOUGHNUTS or until frothy. Place remaining flour in an
1 onion, chopped MAKES 12 DOUGHNUTS electric mixer fitted with a dough hook.
3 garlic cloves, chopped Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. Add yeast mixture, eggs and 1/2 tsp salt,
1 tbs grated ginger then knead for 2 minutes or until dough
1 long red chilli, seeds removed, chopped 500g thick Greek-style yoghurt comes together. Add butter, one piece
2 tsp mild curry powder 1/2 tsp saffron threads at a time, until combined. Knead for
2 tbs tomato paste 1 cup (120g) pure icing sugar, sifted 2-3 minutes until dough is soft, but not
750g carrots, chopped 2 tsp rosewater sticky (add a little more flour if necessary).
1/2 cup (100g) dried red lentils, 7g sachet dried instant yeast Transfer to a greased bowl. Cover with a
rinsed, drained 2 tbs honey tea towel and set aside in a warm place
400g can chopped tomatoes 1/2 cup (125ml) milk, warmed for 45 minutes or until doubled in size.
1L (4 cups) vegetable stock 22 /3 cups (400g) bread and pizza flour Knock back dough. Divide into 12, roll
Juice of 1 lemon (strong flour) into balls and place on an oiled baking tray.
Fried curry leaves, fried garlic slices, 2 eggs Cover with the tea towel and set aside for
fried shredded ginger, lime wedges 60g unsalted butter, chopped a further 20 minutes or until risen slightly.
and roti, to serve Sunflower oil, to deep-fry Meanwhile, combine the caster sugar,
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar cinnamon and cardamom in a large bowl.
Heat oil in a pan over medium heat. Add 1 tsp ground cinnamon Half-fill a deep-fryer or large pan with oil
onion, garlic, ginger and chilli, and cook, 1 tsp ground cardamom and heat to 160°C (a cube of bread will turn
stirring, for 3-4 minutes until soft. Add Chopped pistachios, to serve golden in 45 seconds when hot enough).
curry powder and tomato paste, and cook In batches, fry doughnuts, turning, for
for a further 1 minute or until fragrant. Add Place yoghurt in a sieve lined with a muslin 2-3 minutes until golden. Toss in sugar
carrots and lentils, stir, then add tomatoes, set over a bowl. Tie with kitchen string, mixture. Repeat with remaining doughnuts.
stock and 1L (4 cups) water. Season. then chill overnight for the liquid to drain. Push piping bag nozzle into the side of
Increase heat to high and bring to the boil. The next day, soak saffron and 1 tsp hot each doughnut and pipe in a little yoghurt.
Reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, water in a bowl for 5 minutes to soften. Sprinkle with pistachio to serve.
for 35-40 minutes until carrots are tender. Gently combine drained yoghurt with icing
Cool slightly, then blend using a stick sugar, rosewater, saffron and saffron liquid.
blender until smooth. Stir in lemon juice. Place in a piping bag and chill until needed. delicious.com.au/recipes
Serve soup with curry leaves, garlic, Combine yeast, honey, milk and 1 tbs For more vegetarian recipes.
ginger, lime wedges and roti. flour in a bowl. Set aside for 10 minutes

delicious.com.au 77 
LILYDALE ADVERTISING FEATURE

THE ENTERTAINER
Impressive entertaining has never been easier than with Lilydale Free Range Chicken,
which shines in this light and fresh Asian-inspired dinner party menu.

COCONUT-POACHED CHICKEN
LETTUCE CUPS WITH MINT SALAD
SERVES 8 AS AN ENTREE

2 cups (500ml) coconut milk


Finely grated zest and juice of 2 limes,
plus wedges to serve
2 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced
1 tsp fish sauce
2 x 200g Lilydale Free Range Chicken
Breast Fillets
1 bunch Vietnamese mint, leaves picked
1 packet baby cucumbers (qukes), sliced
1/2 red onion, sliced

1 long red chilli, sliced


1 green lettuce, outer leaves removed

Place the coconut milk, lime zest and


juice, lime leaf and fish sauce in a
saucepan over low heat and stir to
combine. Add the chicken and cook
for 20 minutes or until cooked through.
Remove from heat and set aside to cool
slightly. Refrigerate chicken in the
poaching liquid until cold.
Toss mint, cucumber, onion and chilli
in a bowl. Slice chicken and toss with
2 tbs coconut poaching liquid.
Place the lettuce leaves on a serving
platter, top with chicken and mint salad.
Serve with lime wedges to squeeze over.
CONFIT CHICKEN MARYLAND
WITH GREEN CHILLI NOODLES
SERVES 4

2 x Lilydale Free Range Chicken


Whole Chickens
1 garlic bulb, halved
1 bunch coriander, leaves picked,
roots reserved
2 star anise
2 tbs sesame oil
1L (4 cups) olive oil
1L (4 cups) chicken stock
1 tbs light soy sauce
200g soba noodles
2 cups (240g) frozen podded edamame
1 green chilli, seeds removed, sliced
2 spring onions (green part only), sliced
1 tbs rice wine vinegar

To remove marylands, place chicken,


breast-side up, on a cutting board. Pull
one leg away from the body and cut
between the body and both sides of the
thigh, careful not to remove skin from
the maryland. Bend the whole leg firmly
away from the body until the ball of the
thighbone pops from the hip socket. Cut
between the ball and socket to separate
the leg. Repeat with the other legs.
Run your knife along the breastbone
to remove the breast fillet. Repeat
with other breasts and set aside to and return to heat. Discard bones. Bring
use another time (see note at end). to the boil, then add soba noodles and
Reserve the chicken bones. cook according to packet instructions. THE EASY INGREDIENT
Preheat the oven to 150°C. Place Add the edamame for the final 3 minutes Lilydale Free Range Chicken is
marylands, garlic, coriander roots, star of cooking. Strain into a bowl, set broth premium-quality chicken. It’s the
anise and sesame oil in a large baking aside. Refresh noodles and edamame ideal versatile ingredient to use to
dish. Cover with oil and secure with foil. in cold water. create a variety of dishes for your
Bake for 2 hours 30 minutes or until Combine chilli, shallots, coriander next dinner party.
cooked through. Set aside to cool leaves and rice wine vinegar in a bowl • For information and recipes,
slightly. Remove the chicken and reserve with the reserved cooking oil. visit: freerangechicken.com.au
1 tbs cooking oil. Place chicken, skin-side Serve chicken with broth, noodles,
NEWSLIFEMEDIA CREATIVE SERVICES

down, in a cold frypan. Place frypan edamame and green chilli oil.
over medium heat and cook for • Try this easy tabbouleh-inspired dish
5-6 minutes until skin is crisp and with the leftover chicken fillets. Place
golden. Keep warm to serve. fillets in a bowl with 2 tbs each lemon
Meanwhile, place the stock, soy juice and olive oil. Season and chargrill
sauce and reserved chicken bones in over medium heat for 8 minutes each
a saucepan. Bring to the boil over high side. Slice and toss with 1 tsp sumac, a
heat, reduce heat to medium and simmer can of drained chickpeas and a cup each
for 20 minutes. Strain into a saucepan of chopped flat-leaf parlsey and mint.
WICKED.

D RE AM
TE AM
Gin and tonic. Apple and cinnamon. Choc
orange. Banoffee. Warren Mendes takes our
favourite flavour combinations to the next
level with these incredible desserts.
PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

80 delicious.com.au
Gin & tonic tart with candied
lemon (recipe p 85). OPPOSITE:
banoffle (cookie dough waffle
sandwiches with banoffee
cheesecake – recipe p 82).
“I’VE TAKEN FAVOURITE FLAVOUR COMBOS
– FROM ESPRESSO MARTINI COCKTAILS TO
SEASONAL PAIRINGS – AND TURNED THEM
INTO IRRESISTIBLE DESSERTS.”
Download our enhanced
@warrenmendes App for Cook Mode

BANANA & CARAMEL Preheat an electric waffle iron. Using Beat butter and 13/4 cups (385g) sugar
about 1/4 cup (60ml) dough for each waffle in an electric mixer fitted with the paddle
BANOFFLE (COOKIE DOUGH cookie, cover the base of the iron and attachment on medium-high speed until
WAFFLE SANDWICHES WITH cook according to the manufacturer’s thick and pale. With the motor running, add
BANOFFEE CHEESECAKE) instructions for 3 minutes or until golden. eggs, 1 at a time, beating until combined.
MAKES 6 The waffles will be quite soft while still Reduce speed to medium-low, then add
You will need a waffle maker or waffle iron. warm so use a spatula to turn out, then sour cream, chocolate and a pinch of salt.
set aside on a wire rack to cool. Repeat Combine flour and cocoa in a bowl, then
1/2 firmly packed cup (125g) brown sugar to make 12 waffle cookies. beat one-quarter flour mixture into
2 /3cup (150g) caster sugar Using an 8cm cookie cutter, cut out chocolate mixture, then one-quarter
250g unsalted butter, softened 6 round pieces of cheesecake. To serve dip (60ml) Kahlua. Repeat, alternating between
2 eggs one side of each waffle in melted chocolate the flour mixture and Kahlua, beating
2 tsp vanilla extract then use to sandwich cheesecake rounds. constantly until combined. Divide batter
2 cups (300g) plain flour between pans and bake on the same rack
1/2 tsp baking powder COFFEE & CHOCOLATE in the oven for 1 hour 10 minutes or until a
200g dark (70%) chocolate, skewer inserted into the centre comes out
melted ESPRESSO MARTINI LAYER CAKE clean (if both cakes do not fit on the same
SERVES 12 rack, then swap halfway through cooking
CHEESECAKE time). Cool in pans for 10 minutes then
500g cream cheese, at room temperature 200g unsalted butter, softened remove and cool completely on a wire rack.
2 small ripe bananas 21/2 cups (550g) caster sugar To make the caramel, combine the
450g jar dulce de leche 4 eggs remaining 3/4 cup (165g) sugar and 2 tbs
3 eggs 250g sour cream water in a small saucepan and place over
1 cup (250ml) thickened cream 150g dark (70%) chocolate, melted, cooled medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook
3 cups (450g) self-raising flour for 8 minutes or until golden. Carefully add
Preheat the oven to 150°C. Grease and 3/4 cup (75g) cocoa cream and a pinch of salt, stirring until
line a 30cm x 20cm x 3cm-deep lamington 1 cup (250ml) Kahlua smooth. Set aside to cool completely.
pan with baking paper leaving 3cm 1/2 cup (125ml) pure (thin) cream For the icing, beat cream cheese and
overhanging. 1/4 cup (60ml) vodka butter in the bowl of an electric mixer
For the cheesecake, whiz cream cheese 75g chocolate-coated coffee on high speed until combined, then
and bananas in a food processor until beans, chopped reduce speed to medium and gradually
smooth. Add the dulce de leche, eggs add coffee and icing sugar, beating
and cream, and whiz until smooth and COFFEE ICING constantly until combined.
combined. Pour into prepared pan and 1kg cream cheese, at room temperature Trim the tops of the cakes to level, then
bake for 45 minutes or until just cooked 175g unsalted butter, softened slice each cake in half horizontally so there
with a slight wobble in the centre. Cool in 11/2 tbs instant coffee granules, dissolved are 4 cake layers. Brush each cake evenly
oven with door slightly ajar for 1 hour then in 1 tbs warm water with the vodka. To assemble, place one
chill for at least 2 hours or until set and firm. 21/2 cups (300g) pure icing sugar cake layer on a cake stand and spread
To make the waffle cookie dough, with one-quarter icing. Repeat layering
combine sugars, butter, eggs, vanilla, Preheat oven to 160°C. Grease and line three more times, finishing with a final
flour and baking powder in a bowl. two 20cm springform cake pans with layer of icing. To serve, top with the
Chill for 1 hour or until firm. baking paper. coffee beans and drizzle over caramel.

82 delicious.com.au
WICKED.

Espresso martini
layer cake
Apple & cinnamon
creme caramel cakes
WICKED.

“IN THE GLASS OR ON THE PLATE, THESE TIMELESS


COMBINATIONS ARE WINNERS: GIN AND TONIC WITH
A HINT OF CITRUS, DARK CHOCOLATE LACED WITH
EARTHY COFFEE, AND MASHING UP COOKIE DOUGH
WAFFLES AND BANOFFEE IS A COMPLETE NO-BRAINER.”

APPLE & CINNAMON stirring occasionally, for 8-10 minutes until 1/3cup (40g) pure icing sugar
softened. Remove from heat and set aside 125g chilled unsalted butter, chopped
APPLE & CINNAMON CREME to cool completely. Preheat oven to 160°C. 1 egg, plus 1 egg yolk
CARAMEL CAKES Combine apple mixture, egg yolks, flour, 1 tsp vanilla bean paste
MAKES 8 remaining 150g butter and 1/2 cup (110g) 1-2 tbs tonic water, chilled
caster sugar. Whisk eggwhites to stiff
2 /3cup (150g) caster sugar peaks, then fold into apple mixture. Divide CANDIED LEMON
250g cream cheese, at room among the 8 holes, making sure not to 11/2 cups (330g) caster sugar
temperature push apple mixture into the custard. Place 1 cup (250ml) tonic water, chilled
395g can sweetened condensed milk pan in oven and bake for 35-40 minutes 2 lemons, thinly sliced
6 egg yolks until sponge is cooked through. 1/4 cup (60ml) gin

2 tsp vanilla bean paste To make candied apple slices, combine


remaining 3/4 cup (165g) caster sugar and To make the curd, place sugar, eggs and
APPLE SPONGE 2 tbs water in a frypan over medium-high egg yolks, butter, lemon and lime zest
175g unsalted butter, softened heat. Cook for 6-8 minutes until a golden and juice, and juniper berries in a large
1 large apple, grated (about 150g), caramel. Add apple slices and cook for heatproof bowl. Whisk to combine. Place
plus 1 thinly sliced apple 30 seconds each side or until slightly over a saucepan of gently simmering
1 tsp ground cinnamon tender. Cool on a baking tray lined with water (don’t let the bowl touch the water)
11/2 cups (330g) caster sugar baking paper. Reserve caramel in pan. and cook, whisking constantly, for
3 eggs, separated Cool cakes in pans for 5 minutes, then 6-8 minutes until thickened.
1 cup (150g) self-raising flour turn out onto a serving plate (some caramel Meanwhile, soak the gelatine in a bowl
will remain on the bottom of the pan or in of cold water for 5 minutes to soften.
Grease and line 8 holes of a 12-hole the bottom of the ramekin). Serve topped Remove curd from heat, squeeze excess
loose-bottomed mini cheesecake pan with a few slices of apple and drizzle with water from the gelatine and add the
with baking paper. (Alternatively, grease reserved caramel. leaves to the bowl, whisking to combine.
and line 8 x 1 cup (250ml) ramekins with Strain into a clean bowl, discarding solids.
baking paper.) GIN & TONIC Cover the surface with plastic wrap and
For the caramel, place sugar and 2 tbs chill for 2 hours or until thickened.
water in a small saucepan and place over GIN & TONIC TART WITH Meanwhile, preheat oven to 180°C.
medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook CANDIED LEMON (COVER RECIPE) Grease and line the base of a 22cm
for 7 minutes or until golden, then quickly SERVES 12 springform cake pan with baking paper.
divide among 8 holes. Set aside until cool. For the almond shortcrust, place the
To make the custard layer, place cream 11/3 cups (295g) caster sugar almond meal, flour, sugar and butter in
cheese in an electric mixer fitted with the 8 eggs, plus 4 egg yolks a food processor and whiz until a rough
paddle attachment and beat until smooth 250g unsalted butter, chopped crumb. With the motor running, add the
(alternatively, beat with electric beaters Finely grated zest and juice of egg yolk and vanilla, then add the tonic
until smooth). Gradually add condensed 3 lemons and 1 lime, plus 1 extra water, a little at a time, until pastry comes
milk, egg yolks, vanilla and a pinch of salt. thinly sliced lime to serve together. Press dough into the lined cake
Divide among the 8 holes, then chill for 2 tsp juniper berries pan to create a 3mm thick base and sides
1 hour to firm slightly. 2 titanium-strength gelatine leaves about 3mm thick. Chill for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, for apple sponge, melt 25g Trim the sides of the tart to a straight
butter in a saucepan over medium heat. ALMOND SHORTCRUST edge, about 3.5cm deep. Using a fork,
Add grated apple, cinnamon, 1/4 cup (55g) 1/2 cup (50g) almond meal prick holes in the bottom of the tart. Line
caster sugar and 1/4 cup (60ml) water. Cook, 11/4 cups (185g) plain flour the tart with baking paper and fill with

delicious.com.au 85
WICKED.

300g unsalted butter, melted, cooled


13/4 cups (385g) caster sugar
1/2 tsp salt

6 eggs, lightly beaten


3/4 cup (75g) cocoa

Finely grated zest of 11/2 oranges


1/2 tsp baking powder

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
13/4 cups (300g) dark (70%) chocolate,
chopped
1/2 cup (60g) pure icing sugar, sifted

600ml thickened cream

CHOCOLATE GLAZE
100g dark (70%) chocolate
100g unsalted butter
1 tbs glucose syrup

Preheat the oven to 150°C. Grease


and line a 20cm x 30cm x 4cm-deep
lamington pan with baking paper,
leaving 3cm overhanging.
Place pistachios and flour in a food
processor and whiz until a fine crumb.
Transfer to a bowl and combine with the
remaining ingredients and 1/2 tsp salt.
Spread into prepared pan and bake for
35 minutes or until set, but with a slight
wobble in the centre. Cool in pan.
For the mousse, place chocolate and
sugar in a heatproof bowl and set aside.
Place cream in a pan over medium-high
heat and bring to a simmer, then pour over
chocolate mixture. Set aside for 5 minutes
Pistachio, orange & or until melted, then stir until smooth. Chill
chocolate mousse brownie
for 30 minutes or until thickened and
cooled, then whisk to stiff peaks (do not
overwhip as mixture will split). Spread over
pastry weights. Bake for 20 minutes, then spread evenly over a wire rack to cool. brownie. Chill for 2 hours or until set.
remove pastry weights and baking paper. Cool syrup slightly, then add the gin For the glaze, place all the ingredients
Beat remaining egg and brush over tart. and cool completely. in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of
Return tart to oven for a further 10 minutes Top tart with candied lemon and extra simmering water (don’t let bowl touch
or until golden and cooked through. Set lime slices. Drizzle with gin syrup to serve. water) for 4 minutes or until melted, stir
aside until cool, then remove from pan. to combine, then remove and cool.
Spread thickened curd into the tart case CHOC & ORANGE Remove brownie from the fridge 1 hour
and chill for 4 hours or until firm. before serving. Slice into 12-16 pieces and
Meanwhile, for candied lemon, place PISTACHIO, ORANGE & drizzle with chocolate glaze to serve.
sugar and tonic water in a saucepan over CHOCOLATE MOUSSE BROWNIE
medium heat. Bring to a simmer, then SERVES 12-16
reduce the heat to low and add lemon. delicious.com.au/recipes
Cook, stirring occasionally, for 40 minutes 225g pistachios For more wicked dessert recipes.
or until soft, then remove the lemon and 3/4 cup (110g) plain flour

86 delicious.com.au
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your burn under cold water for 20 minutes, use Burnaid® gel
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Oven-roasted
meatballs with
kale pesto
and mozzarella.
OPPOSITE: spicy
pepperoni &
burrata flatbread
(recipes p 92).

Phoebe Wood makes


dinner memorable
and clean up
forgettable with her
easy flavour-packed
one-tray dishes for
midweek meals,
including a 5-minute
pizza base that’s
better than takeaway!

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT


STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
FASTER FOOD.

delicious.com.au 89
Baked cauliflower
risotto with sage
and hazelnuts
(recipe p 92).
OPPOSITE: roasted
Brussels sprouts,
chorizo & Taleggio
pasta (recipe p 96).
FASTER FOOD.

delicious.com.au 91
“MY WEEKNIGHTS ARE ABOUT
MAXIMUM FLAVOUR (IN MINIMUM
TIME), USING AS FEW INGREDIENTS
AS POSSIBLE, WITH NO WASTE AT THE
END OF THE WEEK. THESE RECIPES
ARE A CINCH, SNEAKING IN EXTRA
VEG AND SAVING ON WASH UP.”
Download our enhanced
@phoeberosewood App for Cook Mode

OVEN-ROASTED MEATBALLS WITH BAKED CAULIFLOWER RISOTTO SAUSAGE & THYME RAGU
KALE PESTO AND MOZZARELLA WITH SAGE AND HAZELNUTS SERVES 4
SERVES 4 SERVES 4
6 Roma tomatoes, roughly chopped
500g beef mince 400g cauliflower 4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 egg 80g unsalted butter 1/2 bunch thyme

3/4 cup (75g) fresh breadcrumbs 2 eschalots, finely chopped 1 heaped tsp dried chilli flakes
1/4 cup (65g) kale pesto (from delis) 1 garlic clove, chopped 4 pork and fennel sausages, casings
or basil pesto, plus extra to serve 11/3 cups (295g) Arborio rice removed, crumbled
4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 850ml chicken stock 1 cup (250ml) chicken stock
1 bunch oregano, leaves picked 300ml thickened cream 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
1 tbs olive oil 1/2 bunch sage leaves 2 tbs tomato paste
1 red onion, finely chopped Toasted hazelnuts and grated parmesan, 250g vine-ripened cherry tomatoes
700ml tomato passata (sugo) to serve 400g bucatini or spaghetti, cooked
1 cup (100g) grated mozzarella according to packet instructions
Basil leaves, to serve Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the Fresh ricotta, to serve
cauliflower in a food processor and
Preheat oven to 200°C. Combine mince, whiz until it resembles rice. Preheat oven to 220°C. Place Roma tomato,
egg, breadcrumbs, pesto and one-quarter Melt 40g butter in a deep flameproof garlic, thyme, chilli and sausage meat in a
chopped garlic in a bowl. Roughly chop casserole over low heat. Cook eschalot deep-sided baking tray. Pour in stock and
half the oregano and add to beef mixture. and garlic, stirring, for 2 minutes or until drizzle with oil. Season. Bake for 20 minutes
Season, then form into 6cm meatballs. softened. Add the rice and cauliflower or until sausage is browned and tomato is
Heat oil in a deep ovenproof frypan and stir to coat, then add stock and soft. Remove from oven and roughly crush
over medium heat. Add the meatballs increase heat to high. Bring to the boil, tomatoes. Stir in tomato paste and add
and cook, turning, for 6-7 minutes until then cover tightly with foil and bake for cherry tomatoes. Bake for a further
browned all over. Remove from pan and 25 minutes or until rice is al dente. Remove 10 minutes or until cherry tomatoes are
set aside. Add onion and remaining garlic from oven and rest for 10 minutes. Stir the slightly soft. Serve with pasta and ricotta.
to pan and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes cream through risotto and season.
or until softened. Add tomato passata, Meanwhile, melt remaining 40g butter SPICY PEPPERONI &
season, then bring to a simmer. Return in a small saucepan over medium-high BURRATA FLATBREAD
meatballs to pan and scatter with cheese heat. Cook for 2-3 minutes until golden SERVES 4
and remaining oregano. Bake for brown. Add sage and cook for 30 seconds
15-20 minutes until meatballs are cooked or until crisp, then remove from heat. 22 /3 cups (400g) self-raising flour
through and cheese is bubbling. Drizzle butter and sage over risotto. 1 tsp baking powder
Serve with extra pesto and basil leaves. Scatter with nuts and parmesan to serve. 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil

92 delicious.com.au
FASTER FOOD.

Sausage &
thyme ragu
1/2 garlic clove, finely grated
2cm piece (10g) ginger,
finely grated
1 tsp dried chilli flakes
100g golden syrup
1/4 cup (60ml) each soy sauce and rice

wine vinegar
Coriander leaves, chopped peanuts and
lime halves, to serve

Preheat the oven to 220°C. Place all the


ingredients in a deep baking tray and
toss well to coat the chicken. Roast,
turning wings every 5 minutes to coat
in the sauce, for 25-30 minutes until
sticky and golden.
Sprinkle the chicken wings with herbs
and chopped peanuts, and serve with
lime to squeeze over.

DUKKAH-CRUSTED BLUE-EYE
WITH ROASTED GARLIC MAYO
SERVES 4-6

1 garlic bulb
2 cups (140g) fresh breadcrumbs
3/4 cup (90g) dukkah

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped


1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil

1kg blue-eye trevalla fillet (skin on),


pin-boned
1 cup (300g) mayonnaise
Baby cos lettuce leaves, micro parsley
Thai-style chicken wings and lemon wedges, to serve
with lemongrass and chilli

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Wrap garlic


bulb loosely in foil and place on bottom
1 cup (280g) thick Greek-style yoghurt baking paper-lined baking tray. Spread shelf of oven. Combine breadcrumbs,
11/2 tsp salt flakes over passata, then scatter with pepperoni, dukkah and parsley in a bowl. Season,
11/2 cups (150g) grated mozzarella chilli and remaining 3/4 cup (75g) mozzarella. then add oil and toss to completely
100ml tomato passata (sugo) Bake for 15-18 minutes until base is cooked coat. Place fish on a baking tray lined
20 slices mixed pepperoni and pepperoni is crisp. with baking paper and spread over the
1/2 tsp dried chilli flakes Serve topped with burrata and chilli oil. dukkah mixture. Bake, on middle shelf
2 balls burrata, torn above garlic, for 25-30 minutes until fish
Chilli oil, to serve THAI-STYLE CHICKEN WINGS WITH is cooked through, top is crisp and the
LEMONGRASS AND CHILLI garlic is soft.
Preheat the oven to 220°C. Combine flour, SERVES 4 Remove garlic from foil. Squeeze garlic
baking powder, oil, yoghurt, salt flakes and from cloves into a bowl and discard skins.
half the mozzarella in a bowl. Knead on a 1kg chicken wings Add mayonnaise and whisk to combine.
work surface to form a smooth dough, then 1/2 lemongrass stalk (inner core only), Serve fish with cos leaves, micro parsley
roll out to a 7mm thick rectangle. Place on a finely grated garlic mayonnaise and lemon wedges.

94 delicious.com.au
FASTER FOOD.

Dukkah-crusted
blue-eye with
roasted garlic mayo
FASTER FOOD.

BAKED BUTTER CHICKEN


SERVES 4-6

1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil


3 tsp garam masala
(Indian spice mix)
2 tsp ground turmeric
1.7kg whole chicken
1 lemon, halved
3 garlic cloves, chopped
3cm piece ginger (15g), chopped
1 long red chilli, chopped
400g can tomato puree
1 cup (280g) thick Greek-style yoghurt
1 cup (250ml) chicken stock
1 large handful curry leaves, plus extra
fried leaves to serve
Papadums and raita (yoghurt combined
with cucumber), to serve

Preheat oven to 220°C. Place the oil in a


bowl with 1 tsp each garam masala and
turmeric. Season. Rub spice mix all over
the chicken. Place a lemon half in the
cavity, then tie the legs together using
kitchen string. Place garlic, ginger, chilli, Baked butter chicken
tomato puree, yoghurt, stock, curry leaves
and remaining 2 tsp garam masala and
1 tsp turmeric in a deep baking tray.
Season. Place the chicken on top and roast
for 30 minutes, then reduce oven to 180°C 3 dried chorizo, casings removed, further 20 minutes or until Brussels
and roast for a further 20 minutes or until finely chopped or crumbled sprouts are golden and chorizo is crisp.
the juices of the chicken run clear when the 200g Taleggio, sliced Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a
thickest part of a thigh is pierced. Remove 300g short pasta (we used large saucepan of boiling salted water
from oven and rest for 15 minutes. maccheroni calabresi) according to packet instructions. Drain.
Squeeze over the juice from remaining Purple basil leaves and sherry Add the cooked pasta to tray and stir
lemon, top with extra fried curry leaves and vinegar, to serve through Taleggio.
serve with papadums and raita. Divide pasta among serving plates and
Preheat the oven to 220°C. Halve scatter with purple basil leaves. Drizzle
ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS, any large Brussels sprouts and spread over a little sherry vinegar to serve.
CHORIZO & TALEGGIO PASTA evenly over a deep-sided baking tray.
SERVES 4 Drizzle with olive oil and season. Roast
for 20 minutes or until just starting to delicious.com.au/recipes
500g Brussels sprouts colour. Remove tray from oven and For more fast weeknight dinners
and weekly meal planners.
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil scatter over the chorizo. Roast for a

96 delicious.com.au
LILYDALE ADVERTISING FEATURE

STREET
EATS
One bite of these Asian-style sliders and
you’ll be transported to the bustling, vibrant,
hawker markets of Asia. Lilydale Free Range
Chicken brings streetfood to your kitchen.

HOISIN CHICKEN BAO


SERVES 4 (8 AS AN ENTREE)

1 packet frozen bao buns


(from Asian grocers)
11/2 tbs peanut oil
700g Lilydale Free Range
Chicken Breast Fillets,
sliced into 1cm-thick pieces
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
1/3 cup (80ml) hoisin sauce

1 tbs oyster sauce


1 tbs rice wine vinegar
11/2 tsp Chinese five spice
powder
1 bunch coriander, leaves picked
1 packet baby cucumbers (qukes),
sliced lengthways
1 small red chilli, sliced (optional)
1/4 cup (40g) roasted peanuts, skin on

Place buns in a large steamer and set over


a wok of boiling water. Cover and steam
for 3-4 minutes until soft, pillowy and
cooked through. Set aside and keep warm.
Meanwhile, heat half the oil in a large
frypan over medium heat. Add half the
chicken and cook, stirring, for 4-5 minutes
until golden. Set aside in a bowl and
repeat with remaining oil and chicken.
Combine the garlic, hoisin, oyster
sauce, vinegar and five spice in a bowl. THE VERSATILE INGREDIENT
Return all chicken to the pan and add Lilydale Free Range Chicken Fillets are perfect
sauce, stirring to coat. Simmer for to pair with Asian flavours to create your own
2 minutes, then remove from heat. streetfood at home.
Fill buns with chicken mixture. Top • For information and recipes, visit:
with coriander, sliced qukes and chilli, freerangechicken.com.au
if using. Sprinkle with peanuts to serve.
ARDMONA ADVERTISING FEATURE

THE BIG RED


Meet Australian farmer Bruce Weeks – he works hard to provide the best homegrown
produce so you can enjoy vine-ripened, sweet, juicy tomatoes in your cooking.

B
ruce owns a tomato farm in which is capable of holding a lot of
Nanneella – a small country town moisture to sustain a tomato plant in hot
in rural Victoria. “I believe knowing conditions. A hot dry climate creates the
where produce comes from and how it ideal conditions to produce top-quality,
has been grown is an essential part of juicy tomatoes that ripen naturally on the
the cooking process these days,” says vine and are full of flavour,” says Bruce.
Bruce. “People tend to reach for the cans
of Italian tomatoes at the supermarket, KEEPING IT LOCAL
but the quality of Aussie tomatoes is For more than 90 years, Ardmona
just as good, if not better, and you are products have been the ultimate cook’s

“BY CHOOSING supporting the Australian economy


instead of sending our money overseas,“
companion. Ardmona is committed
to supporting local growers by only
AUSSIE-GROWN says Bruce. “It’s not just the farmers choosing Australian-grown vine-ripened

PRODUCTS YOU you support but their employees, the


nurseries, and the people working in the
tomatoes, as Ardmona believes ‘the
best tomatoes grow in golden soil’.
ARE KEEPING factories who process the tomatoes.” By featuring the images of the farmers

FARMERS LIKE OUR GOLDEN SOIL


and their families on the tomato cans,
Ardmona is sharing the real-life stories
ME IN BUSINESS.” “Australian soil is perfect for growing and faces that make the brand what
BRUCE WEEKS tomatoes. We have self-mulching soil it is – a genuine homegrown product.
LAMB & HARISSA LASAGNE
WITH FETA AND OREGANO
SERVES 8-10

1 tbs olive oil, plus extra to drizzle


1 onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
750g lamb mince
2 x 400g cans Ardmona
Chopped Tomatoes
1/3 cup (100g) harissa

200g marinated roasted


capsicum, chopped
21/2 cups (600g) fresh ricotta
13/4 cups (350g) Danish feta
2 /3 cup (165ml) milk

375g packet instant lasagne sheets


1 cup oregano leaves
1/4 cup (20g) finely grated parmesan

Green salad leaves (optional), to serve

Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium


heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring,
for 3-4 minutes until softened. Add the
garlic and lamb, and cook, stirring, for
5-6 minutes until browned. Stir through
tomato, harissa and capsicum. Bring to a
simmer, then reduce heat to low and cook,
NEWSLIFEMEDIA CREATIVE SERVICES. ‘ARDMONA’ IS A REGISTERED TRADE MARK OF SPC ARDMONA.

stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes or until


thickened. Set aside to cool slightly.
Place ricotta, feta and milk in a bowl
and stir until smooth. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Spread a
layer of lamb mixture over the base of a
34cm x 28cm deep baking dish. Top with
a layer of lasagne sheets, then one-third
ricotta mixture and one-third oregano.
Repeat layering twice more, finishing with
a layer of ricotta mixture. Sprinkle with
parmesan and cover with baking paper
and foil. Bake for 30 minutes or until a
knife pierces pasta easily. Remove from
oven, discard baking paper and foil, and
increase oven to 200°C. Top lasagne with
remaining oregano and drizzle with oil.
Bake for a further 15 minutes or until
golden. Remove from oven and rest for
10 minutes before slicing.
Serve lasagne with green salad, if using.

• For more recipes using Ardmona


tomatoes, visit: facebook.com/Ardmona
#buyhomegrown
BALANCING ACT.

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

Teff? Millet? Buckwheat? Spelt? You’ve heard the hype, now Samantha Coutts
shows you how to easily weave these good-for-you alt-flours into everyday bakes.

Download our enhanced


@s.coutts
App for Cook Mode

GLUTEN
FREE

Teff hotcakes with tea


infused maple syrup.
OPPOSITE: garlic & rye
bagels (recipes p 103).

100 delicious.com.au
RICH IN
PROTEIN
Bran & brown rice
carrot muffins with
ginger icing

GOOD
SOURCE OF
WHOLEGRAINS
BALANCING ACT.

BRAN & BROWN RICE CARROT 1 egg hook. Transfer 1/2 cup flour mixture to
MUFFINS WITH GINGER ICING 2 tbs coconut oil a separate bowl and add yeast and
MAKES 12 2 /3 cup (165ml) maple syrup 11/4 cups (310ml) warm water. Set aside
1 cinnamon quill for 10 minutes or until frothy. Add yeast
1 cup (120g) oat bran 2 whole cloves mixture to dry ingredients in mixer with
2 cups (250g) brown rice flour 21/2 tsp salt. Knead on medium-low speed
2 cups peeled grated carrot Place the currants, tea bag and 11/4 cups for 10 minutes or until smooth. Transfer
1 firmly packed cup (250g) brown sugar (310ml) boiling water in a heatproof bowl. to a work surface lightly dusted with rye
1 cup (250ml) sunflower oil Set aside for 30 minutes or until currants flour and bring together to form a ball.
4 eggs, lightly beaten are plump. Stain liquid into a saucepan, Place in a greased bowl, then cover with
2 tsp baking powder reserving currants. a clean tea towel and set aside in a warm
2 tsp bicarbonate of soda Combine flours, baking powder, bicarb place for 11/2 hours or until doubled in size.
1 tsp each ground allspice, cinnamon and sugar in a bowl. Place ricotta, milk, Grease a baking tray. Turn out dough
and ginger vanilla and egg in a separate bowl and onto a work surface lightly dusted with
1/2 cup (125ml) milk whisk to combine. Add ricotta mixture to rye flour. Add garlic and gently knead into
dry ingredients, stir to combine, then fold dough, then divide dough into 12 equal
CRYSTALLISED GINGER ICING in currants. Set aside for 5 minutes to rest. pieces. Roll one piece under the palm of
1/2cup (100g) chopped crystallised ginger Heat 1/2 tsp oil in a non-stick frypan your hand to form a sausage shape. Brush
1 tbs brown sugar over medium-low heat. Add 1/3 cup (80ml) ends with water, then fold to form a bagel
250g cream cheese, at room temperature batter and cook for 2 minutes, then flip shape, pinching ends together. Place onto
and cook for a further 2 minutes or until tray and repeat with remaining dough.
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease a cooked through. Remove from pan and Set aside for 5 minutes to rise slightly.
12 hole (1/3 -cup capacity) muffin pan. keep warm. Repeat with remaining batter. Bring a large saucepan of water to
Place all muffin ingredients and a pinch Add maple, cinnamon and cloves to the boil over high heat. Add molasses
of salt in a bowl. Stir until smooth. Divide currant liquid. Place over high heat and and bicarb. In batches of 2-3, boil bagels
batter evenly among muffin holes. Bake cook, stirring, for 8-10 minutes until syrup for 3 minutes each side or until puffed
for 25 minutes or until a skewer inserted is thick and coats the back of a spoon. slightly and a skin has formed. Remove and
into the centre comes out clean. Cool Serve hotcakes with ricotta and syrup. place on a wire rack set over a baking tray
on a wire rack for 10 minutes. to drain. Repeat with remaining bagels.
For the icing, place ginger, sugar and GARLIC & RYE BAGELS Preheat oven to 220°C. Grease and line
1/3 cup (80ml) water in a saucepan over MAKES 12 a baking tray with baking paper. Whisk
medium heat. Bring to the boil, then egg in a small bowl. In a separate bowl,
simmer for 4 minutes or until thickened. 2 garlic bulbs combine nigella seeds, onion flakes and
Set aside to cool. Using electric beaters, Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle 2 tsp salt flakes. Place bagels on tray,
beat cream cheese until smooth. Spoon 1 cup (125g) rye flour, plus extra to dust brush with egg and sprinkle with nigella
cream cheese onto cooled muffins and 21/2 cups (350g) wholemeal spelt flour seed mixture. Bake for 25-30 minutes
top with ginger glaze to serve. 2 tbs brown sugar until golden.
2 tsp (10g) dried instant yeast Halve the bagels and top with labneh,
TEFF HOTCAKES WITH TEA 1 tbs molasses tomato and herbs. Drizzle with oil to serve.
INFUSED MAPLE SYRUP 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
SERVES 4 1 egg CINNAMON BUCKWHEAT
2 tbs each nigella seeds and onion flakes CRUMPETS WITH THYME HONEY
1 cup (150g) currants Marinated labneh, mixed tomatoes and MAKES 18
1 tea bag (we used Earl Grey) micro radish, to serve You will need 6 egg rings.
1 cup (120g) teff flour
1 cup (130g) millet flour Preheat oven to 180°C. Place garlic bulbs 3/4 cup (110g) buckwheat flour
2 tsp baking powder on a piece of foil, drizzle with oil, season 3/4 cup (100g) wholemeal spelt flour
1/2 tsp bicarbonate of soda and wrap to enclose. Place on a baking 1 tsp coconut sugar
1 tbs brown sugar tray and roast for 1 hour or until very soft. 1 tsp ground cinnamon
11/4 cups (300g) ricotta, Squeeze garlic from cloves into a bowl 1/2 tsp bicarbonate of soda

plus extra to serve and discard the skins. 11/4 tsp dried instant yeast
11/4 cups (310ml) milk Meanwhile, combine flours and sugar 175ml milk, warmed
2 tsp vanilla bean paste in an electric mixer fitted with a dough 225ml buttermilk

delicious.com.au 103
BALANCING ACT.

CULTURED TARRAGON BUTTER


600ml pure (thin) cream
21/2 tbs kefir (from health food stores)
or thick Greek-style yoghurt
2 tbs chopped tarragon leaves

Preheat oven to 180°C. Line a baking tray


with baking paper. Toss pumpkin, fennel
HOMEMADE seeds and oil in a bowl. Spread evenly over
CRUMPETS tray. Add 1/2 cup (125ml) water and cover
with foil. Bake for 40 minutes, then remove
foil and increase heat to 220°C. Cook for
a further 15 minutes or until caramelised.
Remove from oven and mash with a fork.
Set aside to cool completely. Transfer to
a large bowl and combine well with yeast,
flour, 1 cup (250ml) water and 1 tsp salt.
Cover with plastic wrap and chill overnight.
For the butter, place cream and kefir
in a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and set
aside overnight at room temperature to
ferment. The next day, whisk cream in
an electric mixer on medium speed until
split. Reduce speed to low and whisk for
a further 8 minutes or until buttermilk has
split out and butter resembles popcorn.
Strain in a colander, reserving buttermilk
for another use (store buttermilk in the
60g unsalted butter, chopped batter to each ring. Bake for 14 minutes refrigerator for up to 2 weeks). Place the
1/2 cup (180g) honey or until risen and cooked through. Use colander in the sink, then rinse butter with
1/4 cup thyme sprigs a knife to release crumpets from rings. iced water. Squeeze out excess liquid
Juice of 1 lemon Cover and keep warm. Repeat with with your hands. Spread out butter and
1/2 cup (75g) hazelnuts, roasted remaining batter to make 18 crumpets. sprinkle with tarragon and 1 tsp salt.
Fresh honeycomb (from gourmet food Meanwhile, heat a frypan over medium Form into a ball. Wrap in baking paper,
stores), to serve heat. Add honey and thyme, simmer then enclose in foil and plastic wrap.
for 1 minute, then add lemon juice and Store in the fridge for up to 3 months.
Combine flours, sugar, cinnamon, bicarb simmer for 2 minutes or until thickened Preheat a 3L-capacity cast iron casserole
and 1 tsp salt in a bowl. In a separate and syrupy. Remove from heat. Set aside with the lid in a 220°C oven for 30 minutes.
bowl, combine yeast, milk and 1/2 cup to cool slightly. Turn out dough onto a work surface
flour mixture. Set yeast mixture aside Serve crumpets with thyme honey, dusted with 1/2 cup (90g) semolina. Form
for 30 minutes or until doubled in size. roasted hazelnuts and honeycomb. into a ball. Carefully place dough into
Whisk into remaining flour mixture with preheated saucepan. Dust with remaining
buttermilk until a smooth batter. Cover NO-KNEAD SPELT & PUMPKIN 1/2 cup (90g) semolina and score top with

with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm BREAD WITH TARRAGON BUTTER a sharp knife. Cover with lid and bake for
place for 1 hour to rest (at this point the MAKES 1 LOAF 1 hour, then remove lid and reduce heat
dough will double in size and the surface Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. to 200°C. Bake for a further 15 minutes
will be covered with lots of small bubbles). or until golden. Cool for 15 minutes in
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Spread 600g pumpkin, chopped into 2cm pieces pan, then remove and cool for a further
one-third butter in a deep baking tray. 1 tbs fennel seeds 10 minutes. Serve with cultured butter.
Place egg rings on baking tray and heat 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
in oven for 3 minutes or until butter melts. 2 tsp (10g) dried instant yeast delicious.com.au/recipes
Remove tray from oven. Brush rings with 51/3 cups (750g) white spelt flour For more healthy alternatives to
melted butter, then add 1 heaped tbs 1 cup (180g) semolina your everyday favourites.

104 delicious.com.au
KNOW YOUR GRAIN
SPELT is a fibre-rich grain
in the wheat family. It has
a nutty flavour similar to
barley and is commonly
used in cakes, muffins
and breads for a denser
consistency and darker
colour. From supermarkets
and health food stores.
RYE is a grain that is lower
in gluten than wheat flours
and has a tangy flavour. Rye
creates deliciously dense
baked goods (see Postcard,
p 140, for a Swedish apple
& cardamom rye cake).
From health food stores.
MILLET is a small, yellow
ancient grain that has a
mild corn-like flavour. Rich
in iron and B vitamins, this
gluten-free grain works
well cooked as porridge
or try it toasted and then
cooked like cous cous for
a gluten-free alternative.
From health food stores.
TEFF is a fine grain, about
the size of a poppy seed,
that is predominantly grown
in Ethiopia. The grain,
which comes in a variety
of colours, from white and
red to brown, has a mild,
nutty flavour that works well
in pancakes, pie crusts and
other baked goods. From
supermarkets and health
food stores.
BROWN RICE flour is darker NO-KNEAD
in colour than white rice
flour and has a strong rich, BREAD
nutty flavour. This naturally
gluten-free flour is high in
fibre and protein. Try it in
waffles and pizza dough.
From health food stores.
BUCKWHEAT is actually
No-knead spelt &
a herb although it has
pumpkin bread with
grain-like characteristics
tarragon butter.
(and name!). Gluten-free,
OPPOSITE: cinnamon
the earthy and nutty flavours
buckwheat crumpets
of buckwheat make it a
with thyme honey
versatile wheat-free flour
(recipe p 103).
best used in pancakes,
pasta and noodles. From
supermarkets and health
food stores.
Ginger snap & chocolate
mousse sandwiches
(recipe p 109). OPPOSITE:
cardamom pistachio
cookies (recipe p 112).
INS
NK
JE
N
TE GUEST CHEF.
RS
KI
G
N

I
YL
ST
S
ON
IM
GRA
JE R
P HY
EM
YS
COOKIE
CUT TER
PHOTO

Christine Manfield aka the Dessert Diva shows us


how she rolls – when it comes to dough that is –
with this wicked line up of cookies and biscuits
that will have you reaching into the jar.

delicious.com.au 107
Passionfruit melting
moments
GUEST CHEF.

I LOVE TO BAKE. It’s so therapeutic and relaxing, experimenting with flavours and
textures – nothing beats a good cake, sweet pastry or melt-in-the-mouth cookie. Late
last year, I was invited to create a limited edition cookie for Byron Bay Cookie Company to
celebrate their 25th anniversary, to mark the beginning of a larger brand ambassadorship
to create new flavours for their existing range. That first recipe was a passionfruit and
dark chocolate shortbread with a second flavour of salted caramel popcorn soon to be
released. Passionfruit is my all-time favourite fruit and it partners perfectly with dark
chocolate, the flavours bouncing off each other and adding that touch of lushness to
the buttery shortbread. These melting moments are an Aussie classic and have that
same sweet tang against buttery shortbread.
People often ask me “what’s the difference between a biscuit and a cookie?”, and
it has more to do with whether you are from Australia or USA. Cookies have more
moisture content, so yield a softer texture, whereas biscuits have more bite. These chewy,
oversized salted choc-chip cookies are my ultimate recipe, easy to bake and oh-so-easy to
eat. The secret to making a good cookie? Getting the right consistency in the dough and
making sure there is a pronounced flavour, as well as using the best ingredients possible.

Download our enhanced


@christinemanfieldchef @byronbaycookies App for Cook Mode

PASSIONFRUIT MELTING MOMENTS 30 minutes or until slightly firm. Cool For the chocolate mousse, place eggs
MAKES 8 on a wire rack. and egg yolk in the bowl of an electric
For the icing, place the butter and icing mixer and whisk on medium speed until
30ml passionfruit juice (from about sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer and thick and pale. Place sugar and 1/3 cup
2 passionfruit), strained beat until thick and pale. Stir through the (80ml) water in a small saucepan over
220g unsalted butter, softened passionfruit pulp until combined. medium heat, stirring until the sugar
100g pure icing sugar Spread icing over one biscuit, then dissolves. Heat to 121°C on a sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract sandwich with another biscuit. Repeat thermometer, then, with the mixer still
12 /3 cups (250g) plain flour with remaining biscuits. running, pour onto the eggs in a thin
1/2 cup (75g) cornflour steady stream. Increase speed to high
GINGER SNAP & CHOCOLATE and whisk for 10 minutes or until mixture
PASSIONFRUIT ICING MOUSSE SANDWICHES is very thick and completely cool.
60g unsalted butter, chopped, MAKES 10 Meanwhile, place the chocolate in a
at room temperature You will need a sugar thermometer. bowl set over a saucepan of simmering
1 cup (120g) pure icing sugar, sifted water (don’t let the bowl touch water),
11/2 tbs passionfruit pulp 50g unsalted butter, softened stirring until melted. Cool slightly, then
2 tbs golden syrup fold into egg mixture. Fold in half the
Preheat the oven to 140°C and line two 2 small eggwhites, lightly beaten cream to loosen, then fold through
baking trays with baking paper. Place 90g plain flour remainder. Place in a container and
passionfruit juice, butter, icing sugar and 1 tsp ground ginger chill for 3 hours or until firm and cold.
vanilla in the bowl of an electric mixer and To make the ginger snaps, preheat the
beat until thick and pale. Add flour and CHOCOLATE MOUSSE oven to 180°C and line two baking trays
cornflour and beat until a smooth dough. 2 eggs, plus 1 extra egg yolk with baking paper. Place the butter and
Working with 11/2 tbs for each biscuit, 100g caster sugar golden syrup in the bowl of an electric
roll the dough into 16 small balls and 1 cup (185g) dark (70%) chocolate, mixer and beat until pale. Add half the
place on baking trays, 3cm apart. Flatten chopped eggwhite and beat until combined, then
the balls slightly with a fork dusted with 300ml thickened cream, whisked to repeat with the remaining eggwhite.
flour. Bake, swapping trays halfway, for stiff peaks Sift flour and ginger together, then add

delicious.com.au 109
GUEST CHEF.

Salted choc-chip cookies.


OPPOSITE: vanilla butter
shortbread.
to the butter mixture and beat to combine.
Using a palette knife, spread half the
dough over one tray in a very thin layer,
about 1mm thick. Bake for 5 minutes, then
remove from oven and, using an 8cm
round cookie cutter, cut 10 rounds and
discard surrounding dough. Return tray
to oven and cook for a further 8 minutes
or until biscuits are crisp and dark golden.
Cool completely on tray. Repeat with
remaining dough.
Using a piping bag fitted with a round
nozzle, pipe 2 tbs mousse on half the
biscuits, then sandwich with the
remaining biscuits. Serve immediately.

SALTED CHOC-CHIP COOKIES


MAKES 12 LARGE COOKIES

125g unsalted butter, softened


125g caster sugar
1/2 firmly packed cup (125g) brown sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract


1 egg
11/2 cups (220g) self-raising flour
1 tbs milk powder
3/4 cup (135g) good-quality dark

chocolate chips
1/2 tsp salt flakes, plus extra to scatter

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease and VANILLA BUTTER SHORTBREAD Turn out onto a lightly floured work
line two large baking trays with baking SERVES 10 surface and knead until dough comes
paper. Place the butter and sugars in together. Enclose in plastic wrap and
the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with 250g unsalted butter, softened refrigerate for 40 minutes to firm up.
a whisk attachment and beat until pale. 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped Preheat the oven to 150°C and line
Add vanilla extract and egg, and beat 125g caster sugar a baking tray with baking paper. Place
until combined. Add the flour, milk power, 2 cups (300g) plain flour, sifted dough between two sheets of baking
chocolate chips and salt flakes and fold 75g rice flour, sifted paper on a work surface and roll out to
gently until combined. Working with 2 tbs raw sugar a 7mm thick rectangle.
2 tbs dough at a time, roll into balls and Transfer to prepared tray and, using
divide among trays, leaving 6cm between Place butter and vanilla seeds in an electric a sharp knife, cut shallow incisions all over
each ball. Flatten slightly, then bake for mixer fitted with a paddle attachment the cookie sheet to mark lines where the
12 minutes or until golden. and beat until smooth. Add all remaining biscuits will be broken. Scatter over sugar.
Cool slightly, then scatter with extra ingredients, except raw sugar, and a pinch Bake for 25-30 minutes until pale and dry.
salt flakes to serve. of salt and beat until a smooth dough. Cool then break into biscuits.

delicious.com.au 111
GUEST CHEF.

Place eggwhites in a bowl and whisk to


soft peaks. Gently fold through remaining
ingredients. Working with 2 tsp at a time,
roll coconut mixture into balls and place
on tray, a few centimetres apart. Bake for
15 minutes or until firm, but not coloured.
Cool completely on trays.
To serve, spread the lemon curd over
half the biscuits to cover, then sandwich
Gluten-free coconut
& lemon macarons. curd with the remaining biscuits to
‘Perspective’ marble form macarons.
board, Beans + Jazz
(used throughout).
CARDAMOM PISTACHIO COOKIES
MAKES 24

1/2 cup (75g) pistachios, plus 2 tbs extra


roughly crushed pistachios
2 cups (300g) plain flour, sifted
250g unsalted butter, softened,
chopped
1 cup (125g) pure icing sugar, sifted
2 tsp ground cardamom
1 egg yolk
2 tbs raw sugar

Place the pistachios and flour in a food


processor and whiz until pistachios are
finely ground (be careful not to whiz too
much, or you’ll make a paste). Set aside.
Place butter and icing sugar in the bowl of
an electric mixer and beat until thick and
pale. Add cardamom and egg yolk, and
beat until combined, then add ground
pistachio mixture and a pinch of salt and
beat to combine. Shape into a ball and
enclose in plastic wrap. Chill for 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 160°C. Line two baking
GLUTEN-FREE COCONUT For the lemon curd, place the egg yolks trays with baking paper. Place the dough
& LEMON MACARONS and sugar in a heatproof bowl and whisk between two sheets of baking paper and
MAKES 15 until thick and pale. Add lemon juice, then roll out until 7mm thick. Using a 5cm
Store curd in the fridge for up to 2 months. place bowl over a saucepan of gently round cookie cutter, cut into 24 rounds,
simmering water (don’t let the bowl touch re-rolling dough if necessary. Arrange
2 eggwhites water). Cook, stirring with a spatula, for biscuits on baking trays. Combine extra
21/4 cups (150g) shredded coconut 2 minutes or until thick. Add cold butter, crushed pistachios and raw sugar in a
For stockist details, see Directory, p 153.

100g caster sugar one piece at a time, and stir to combine, bowl then scatter over cookies. Bake for
20g pistachios, chopped making sure each piece is incorporated 20 minutes or until pale golden and firm.
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon before adding the next. Cook, stirring Cool on trays before serving.
constantly, for 8 minutes or until curd is
LEMON CURD very thick and coats the back of a spoon.
3 large egg yolks Cool slightly. Cover surface with plastic delicious.com.au/recipes
1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar wrap. Chill for 2 hours or until needed. For more sweet and savoury
1/4 cup (60ml) lemon juice, strained To make shells, preheat oven to 160°C. recipes from Christine Manfield.
100g cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces Line two baking trays with baking paper.

112 delicious.com.au
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ACE OF
CAKES
When it’s time to celebrate, Jamie Oliver turns to cheesecake.
Here he shares five of the best, from a tangy baked
number with bursts of berries to espresso-spiked
minis with a buttery amaretti crumb.
PHOTOGRAPHY MYLES NEW RECIPES CARA HOBDAY

@jamieoliver

Download our enhanced App for


Cook Mode, plus bonus content:
burnt honey & oat cheesecake
JAMIE OLIVER.

Baked berry cheesecake.


OPPOSITE: chocolate
terrine (recipes p 118).

delicious.com.au 115
Espresso
cheesecakes

ESPRESSO CHEESECAKES in a heatproof bowl set over a small pan 1/2 cup (75g) sesame seeds
SERVES 8 of simmering water for 2-3 minutes until 2 tbs fine polenta
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. warmed through. Remove bowl from heat. 2 tbs plain flour
Squeeze excess liquid from gelatine, then 1/2 tsp baking powder

250g pitted prunes whisk into warm milk. Return bowl to pan 1 egg, lightly beaten
100ml dark rum of simmering water and whisk constantly 1 tsp vanilla extract
170g amaretti biscuits, crushed until gelatine dissolves. Remove from heat.
80g unsalted butter, melted Add milk mixture to cream cheese and DATE COMPOTE
2 tbs almond meal whiz to combine. Spoon over prune layer, 100g pitted medjool dates
1/3 cup (80ml) espresso coffee and smooth surface with the back of a 1/3 cup (50g) pistachios, toasted,

200g pure icing sugar, sifted spoon. Chill for 4 hours or until set. ground to a fine powder
500g cream cheese, at room temperature Using a 6cm round cutter, cut out eight
3 egg yolks individual portions. Dust cheesecakes with Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease
3 titanium-strength gelatine leaves cocoa to serve. and line the base and sides of a 22cm
150ml milk springform cake pan with baking paper.
Cocoa powder, to dust SESAME & DATE For the base, beat sugar and butter
CHEESECAKE in a bowl until thick and pale. Beat in
Place the prunes in a bowl with the SERVES 12 remaining ingredients with 1/4 tsp salt, to
rum. Set aside overnight to soak. form a dough. Press into the base of pan
The next day, grease and line a 300g cream cheese, at room temperature with the back of a spoon, then bake for
20cm x 30cm brownie pan with baking 200g thick Greek-style yoghurt 10-12 minutes until just firm. Cool slightly.
paper. To make base, combine amaretti, 2 tbs cornflour Meanwhile, for the date compote,
butter and almond meal in a bowl. Press 4 eggs, lightly beaten place dates in a bowl and just cover with
into base of the pan and cover and chill. 200g pure icing sugar, sifted hot water. Set aside for 15 minutes to
Whiz prunes in a food processor with 2 tbs tahini soften. Drain dates, reserving soaking
2 tbs soaking rum until smooth, adding 6 figs, halved water, and whiz in a food processor until
more rum if needed. Spoon over the base. 100g honey smooth, adding 1 tbs soaking liquid at a
To make cheesecake, whiz espresso, 1/3 cup (50g) pistachios, roasted, chopped time to make a spoonable puree. Stir in
icing sugar, cream cheese and egg yolks in pistachios, then spoon over sesame base.
a food processor for 1 minute to combine. SESAME BASE To make the filling, whiz cream cheese
Soak gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold 60g caster sugar in a food processor for 30 seconds until
water for 5 minutes to soften. Heat milk 60g unsalted butter, softened smooth. Add yoghurt, cornflour, eggs,

116 delicious.com.au
JAMIE OLIVER.

“DATES, SESAME, PISTACHIOS AND HONEY


ALL COME TOGETHER IN THIS LUSCIOUS
MIDDLE EASTERN-STYLE CHEESECAKE.”

Sesame & date


cheesecake
JAMIE OLIVER.

sugar and tahini, and whiz to combine. For honey plums, place all ingredients Remove terrine from freezer and set
Pour over date puree. Bake, on the in a pan over medium heat. Cook for aside to thaw for 10 minutes. Using the
bottom shelf of oven, for 40 minutes or 8 minutes or until just soft. Allow to cool, baking paper, carefully remove terrine
until cooked through with a slight wobble then remove plums with a slotted spoon from the pan. Dust with cocoa and garnish
in the centre. Place figs on a baking tray and discard skins. Return to syrup. with whole pecans to serve.
and add to oven for the final 10 minutes To serve, dust cheesecake with icing
of cooking or until just soft. Allow to cool. sugar and spoon over the cooled plums. BAKED BERRY CHEESECAKE
Arrange figs over cheesecake, drizzle SERVES 8
with honey, and sprinkle with pistachios. CHOCOLATE TERRINE
Serve chilled or at room temperature. SERVES 8-10 400g cream cheese,
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. at room temperature
COTTON CHEESECAKE 3 eggs, lightly beaten
WITH HONEY PLUMS 40g unsalted butter, softened 150g pure icing sugar
SERVES 10 1/3 firmly packed cup (80g) soft dark 1 tsp vanilla extract
brown sugar 200g frozen berries, thawed
250g cream cheese, at room temperature 50g gluten-free plain flour (such as blackberries, blueberries
6 eggs, separated 1/3 cup (35g) cocoa powder, or raspberries)
100ml milk plus extra to dust
60g unsalted butter, melted 3 eggs, separated PASTRY
1 tsp vanilla extract 250g cream cheese, at room temperature 100g unsalted butter, chilled, chopped
1 tbs lemon juice 250g double cream 11/3 cups (200g) plain flour
140g caster sugar 1/4 cup (30g) chopped pecans, toasted, 1/3 cup (80ml) milk

60g plain flour plus extra to garnish


1 tbs cornflour For pastry, rub butter and flour together
1/4 tsp cream of tartar Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease and line until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.
Icing sugar, to dust the base and sides of a 9.5cm x 22cm loaf Stir in a pinch of salt, then, using a butter
pan (1L capacity) with baking paper leaving knife, cut in milk, 1 tbs at a time, until
HONEY PLUMS 3cm overhanging. combined. Enclose pastry in plastic
400g plums, halved, stones removed Combine butter and 2 tbs sugar in a wrap and chill for 30 minutes.
100g honey bowl. Add flour, 1/4 cup (25g) cocoa and Preheat oven to 200°C. Roll pastry out
2 tbs chilled water and stir to combine on a floured work surface to 0.5mm thick,
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Fill a roasting and form a dough. Press into the bottom then use it to line the base and sides of a
pan with hot water and place on the of the pan, then bake for 15 minutes or 20cm x 5cm-deep round springform cake
bottom shelf of oven to create steam. until set. Set aside to cool completely. pan, allowing pastry to extend up sides.
Grease and line base and sides of a 20cm Place the egg yolks and remaining 2 tbs Chill for 10 minutes to firm up. Line with
springform cake pan with baking paper. sugar in a large heatproof bowl set over baking paper and fill with pastry weights.
Whisk cream cheese to loosen, add egg a saucepan of simmering water (don’t let Bake for 15 minutes, then remove the
yolks and whisk until smooth. Add milk, bowl touch water). Whisk constantly for weights and paper. Bake for a further
butter, vanilla, lemon juice and half the 3-4 minutes until thick, pale and the sugar 8-10 minutes until golden. Reduce the
sugar, and whisk to combine. Add flours, dissolves. Remove from the heat, scrape oven to 160°C.
and a pinch of salt and whisk to combine. down the sides of the bowl and set aside. Meanwhile, whiz cream cheese, eggs,
In a separate bowl, whisk the eggwhites Place the cream cheese, cream and sugar and vanilla in a food processor for
to soft peaks. Add cream of tartar and remaining 10g cocoa in a food processor 1 minute or until combined. Pour over
remaining 70g caster sugar, 1 tbs at a time, and whiz for 30 seconds or until combined. base and spoon berries over the top.
whisking until glossy. Fold into the cream Add one-third cheese mixture to Place pan on a baking tray and bake
cheese batter, in three batches, then pour the sabayon to loosen, then fold in the for 1 hour or until cheesecake is cooked
into pan. Bake cheesecake on the shelf remaining cheese mixture until combined. through but not too brown.
above the water for 15 minutes or until Whisk eggwhites in a large bowl until Serve cheesecake warm or cold.
puffed and golden on top. Reduce oven to doubled in volume and stiff. Add eggwhite
170°C and cook for a further 30 minutes or to cream cheese mixture in three batches.
until cooked through with a slight wobble Fold in the chopped pecans, pour into delicious.com.au/recipes
in the centre. Turn off oven and leave the loaf pan, cover pan with plastic wrap For Jamie Oliver’s burnt honey
and oat cheesecake.
cheesecake to cool with the door ajar. and freeze overnight.

118 delicious.com.au
Cotton cheesecake
with honey plums

“THE LIGHT TEXTURE OF


THIS JAPANESE-INSPIRED
CHEESECAKE PAIRS PERFECTLY
WITH STICKY, SWEET PLUMS.”
Cavolo nero & sausage pizza.
OPPOSITE: schiacciata with vincotto
cherries (recipes p 122). Jackson Fabric
‘Collectives – Cherry Blossom’ fabric in
denim (used throughout), from Emily Ziz.
SILVIA COLLOCA.

O N TH E R I S E
It’s easy to bake like the pros, says Silvia Colloca, who rolls up her sleeves
and urges us to “make bread, not war” with these moreish Italian recipes.
PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

delicious.com.au 121
AS MORE AND MORE people seem to declare war against wheat, I feel my connection with
baked goods growing stronger by the day. I admire the strength of character needed to give up
on something as delicious and inviting as a freshly baked loaf of bread! It’s not simply the flavour
I would be missing, it’s the ritual of baking – that excitement that springs out of knowing that each
bread is always slightly different, the seemingly interminable wait while the dough is resting, and
the anticipation to finally tear it apart and devour it.
Baking can seem daunting, so why not try my foolproof ciabatta, soft with a golden crust –
you don’t even have to knead it. For the time-poor, my grissini dough is made in a food processor,
which also keeps hands clean. For the experts, I have the best pizza recipe you’ll ever need, and
for sweet tooths there is panzerotti oozing with ricotta and berries. Make bread, not war!

Download our enhanced


@silviacolloca @silviascucina App for Cook Mode

CAVOLO NERO & SAUSAGE PIZZA cavolo nero and chilli, and brush with Cover with a clean tea towel and set aside
SERVES 6 remaining garlic oil. Bake for a further in a warm place for 1 hour or until risen.
This dough can be used after a 10-12 hour 5-10 minutes until golden and tender. Preheat oven to 200°C. Combine all
ferment, or be slow-proved in the fridge for Slice pizza into wedges and serve hot. cherry ingredients in a bowl. Top dough
up to 3 days to allow the flavour to develop. with cherry mixture, pushing a few cherries
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. SCHIACCIATA WITH into bread. Bake for 30 minutes or until
VINCOTTO CHERRIES corners are golden and top is pale golden.
1kg bread and pizza flour (strong flour) SERVES 6 Serve schiacciata warm with extra thyme.
1/2 tsp dried instant yeast

11/2 tbs sea salt flakes 7g sachet dried instant yeast SWEET PANZEROTTI WITH
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil 2 tsp honey RICOTTA AND RASPBERRIES
3 garlic cloves, finely grated 32 /3 cups (550g) bread and pizza flour MAKES 12
2 /3 cup (70g) grated mozzarella (strong flour)
6 (500g) pork and fennel sausages 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 400g fresh ricotta, strained
1 bunch cavolo nero, stalks removed, 3 tsp salt flakes 2 tbs caster sugar
leaves chopped 2 tsp vanilla bean paste
1 small red chilli, sliced VINCOTTO CHERRIES Finely grated zest of 1 orange
1 tbs brown sugar 1 egg
Combine flour, 650ml room temperature 400g frozen pitted cherries 2 tbs milk
water and yeast in an extra large bowl. Add 2 tbs vincotto (cooked grape must) 250g raspberries
salt and 1 tbs oil, then stir to combine into or balsamic vinegar Sunflower oil, to deep-fry
a dough. Form dough into a ball. Cover 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil Pure icing sugar, to dust
with plastic wrap and set aside at room 1 tbs thyme leaves, plus extra to serve
temperature for 10-12 hours until more DOUGH
than doubled in size. To make the dough, combine yeast, honey, 7g sachet dried instant yeast
The next day, knock back dough, then 1 tbs flour and 11/2 cups (375ml) water in a 1 tbs honey
transfer to a clean work surface lightly jug. Set aside for 5 minutes or until frothy. 21/2 cups (375g) bread and pizza flour
dusted with flour and roll into a ball. Place remaining flour in an electric mixer (strong flour), plus extra to dust
Preheat oven to 220°C. Combine garlic fitted with a dough hook, add yeast, oil and 50g caster sugar
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY NIGEL LOUGH

and remaining 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil in a salt, and knead for 6 minutes or until dough 2 tbs milk, plus extra if needed
bowl. Brush a 32cm round x 2.5cm-deep is smooth and elastic. Turn onto a lightly 1 egg
pan or dish with garlic oil. Roll out dough floured work surface and shape into a ball. 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
to a circle the same size as the pan, then Place in a greased bowl and cover with a
press dough into pan. Brush with garlic oil, clean damp tea towel. Set aside in a warm For the dough, combine yeast, honey, 1 tbs
reserving excess, then scatter over cheese. place for 11/2-2 hours until doubled in size. flour and 150ml water in a jug. Set aside for
Squeeze sausage meat from casings, then Turn dough out onto a floured surface, 5 minutes or until frothy. Place sugar and
push small pieces of meat into dough. Bake then roll out to a 20cm x 30cm rectangle. remaining flour in an electric mixer fitted
for 20 minutes, then remove pan from oven Place in a greased 20cm x 30cm baking with a dough hook. Add milk, egg and oil
and increase heat to 250°C. Top pizza with dish. Press with lightly oiled hands to fit. to yeast mixture and whisk to combine.

122 delicious.com.au
SILVIA COLLOCA.

Sweet panzerotti with


ricotta and raspberries
SILVIA COLLOCA.

Easy ciabatta.
OPPOSITE: chia
grissini with
prosciutto.
Jackson Fabric
‘Collectives
– Feather Grand’
fabric in ‘Deep
Sea’, from
Emily Ziz.

>>
Add liquid to flour mixture and knead for
6 minutes or until smooth and elastic,
adding a little extra milk if too dry. Turn out
onto a floured work surface, roll into a ball,
then place in a greased bowl. Cover with
a clean tea towel and set aside in a warm
place for 1-11/2 hours until doubled in size.
Meanwhile, to make the filling, combine
ricotta, sugar, vanilla and orange zest in a
bowl and set aside. In a separate bowl,
whisk egg and milk. Set aside.
Divide dough into 12 equal pieces. Roll
each into a ball, then roll out to 12cm disks.
Brush with egg wash. Place 1 tbs ricotta
mixture and 2 raspberries in the centre of
each circle and fold pastry over to make a
half moon. Press edges together, then fold
edge over itself to create a lip. Pleat edges
to seal. Repeat to make 12 panzerotti.
Heat the oil in a deep-fryer or large
saucepan to 160°C (a cube of bread will
turn golden in 45 seconds when oil is hot
enough). In batches, add panzerotti and
deep-fry for 2 minutes each side or until
puffed and golden. Drain on paper towel.
Serve the panzerotti warm, dusted with 1/2 cup (75g) flour. Shape dough into a long Turn out dough onto a floured work
icing sugar. oval. Carefully pour a glass of cold water surface and shape into a ball. Place in a
into the hot pan to create steam (this helps greased bowl and cover with a clean damp
EASY CIABATTA the bread expand before forming a crust), tea towel. Set aside in a warm place for
SERVES 6 then place ciabatta on rack above pan and 20 minutes or until slightly risen. Remove
bake for 25-30 minutes until bread is risen, dough and stretch into a rectangle. Fold
7g sachet dried instant yeast golden and bottom sounds hollow when one short edge into the middle then fold
4 cups (600g) bread and pizza flour tapped. Cool on a wire rack for 1 hour. over other edge to cover the first fold.
(strong flour) Serve ciabatta with artichokes, olives, Form into a ball, then cover and rest for a
Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle zucchini, cheeses and basil leaves. further 11/2 hours or until doubled in size.
Artichoke hearts, olives, shaved zucchini, Knock back dough on a floured surface.
bocconcini, goat’s cheese and basil CHIA GRISSINI WITH PROSCIUTTO Knead in chia seeds for 2 minutes or until
leaves, to serve MAKES 20 combined. Cut into 20 equal portions, then
roll each piece into a thin 25cm sausage.
Place yeast, 3 cups (450g) flour, 360ml 2 cups (300g) bread and pizza flour Brush each with oil and season. Place at
water and 2 tsp salt in an electric mixer (strong flour) 2cm apart on 3 baking paper-lined baking
fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat 7g sachet dried instant yeast trays and cover with a damp tea towel.
on medium-high speed for 3-4 minutes 2 tbs olive oil, plus extra to brush Rest for 20 minutes or until slightly risen.
until dough comes away from the sides of 1 tbs each black and white chia seeds Preheat the oven to 220°C. Bake grissini
the bowl (dough will be quite wet). Transfer Thinly sliced prosciutto and caper for 15-20 minutes until golden. Cool on
to a greased bowl, cover with a clean tea berries, to serve a wire rack.
towel and set aside at room temperature Serve the grissini with prosciutto,
for 2-3 hours until doubled in size. Pulse flour in a food processor to break up caper berries and extra oil.
Preheat oven to 220°C. Place a saucepan lumps. Add yeast, oil and 1 cup (250ml)
on the bottom of the oven with a rack warm water, and whiz for 1 minute or until
above it. Flour a baking paper-lined baking dough resembles crumbs. Add 11/2 tsp salt delicious.com.au/recipes
tray with 1/2 cup (75g) flour. Gently turn and whiz for 1 minute or until dough comes For more of Silvia’s Italian recipes.
out dough onto tray. Top with remaining away from sides of bowl and is smooth.

delicious.com.au 125
A gift for living

If you’re aged 50-74 you’ll be sent a free bowel cancer screening kit. The kit is simple to use and
can detect bowel cancer before any symptoms appear. Around 80 Australians die of bowel cancer
every week, but if detected early, up to 90% of cases can be successfully treated. So be sure to
complete and return your kit. It’s a gift that could save your life. If you’re over 74 talk to your GP.
By 2020 people aged 50-74 will receive a kit every two years.

australia.gov.au/bowelscreening
1800 11 88 68
LUXURY IN THE MOUNTAINS OF OMAN 128 >> AUCKLAND’S TOP FOOD AND WINE SPOTS 138
SWEDISH BAKERY SECRETS 140 >> WELLINGTON: FOOD CAPITAL OF COOL 144

ESCAPE

delicious.com.au 127
GLOBAL FLAVOURS.
AR ABIAN
Travel writer Lee Tulloch happens upon an oasis lined with date palms,
pomegranate and olive trees as she journeys to Alila Jabal Akhdar, the luxurious
new five-star resort perched high in the rocky Al Hajar mountains of Oman.
PHOTOGRAPHY TONY AMOS

@bymrsamos

delicious.com.au 129
I
GLOBAL FLAVOURS.

am afraid my teeth might just


rattle out of my head as we’re
driven on the rocky roads, not
much more than goat tracks,
which cross the ancient mountain range
that rises beyond Oman’s capital, Muscat.
I’d be terrified if it wasn’t so beautiful.
The landscape of deep ravines
and soaring craggy limestone peaks,
coloured rust and slate green, seems
inhospitable to vegetation, and yet the
region is known as Oman’s ‘bread basket’.
To be frank, I’m more concerned with the
way our guide navigates the switchbacks
that climb up to the ridges, than looking
for a fig tree. I don’t like heights and we’re
about 3000 metres above sea level here.
From the highest point, we see rocks,
hundreds of miles of rocks. Magnificent
mountains, folded like lava, shedding
shards. And goats. There are many,
many long-haired goats. When we stop
for a picnic in a dry riverbed, or wadi,
the goats come to look at us.
We are on our way to Alila Jabal
Akhdar, the first five-star resort to
be built in Oman’s Al Hajar mountain
range, a 2.5 hour drive from Muscat,
mostly on good roads. We have driven
a longer route, hijacked by a guide
instructed to take us on the dizzying
mountain paths. My backside is cursing
him, but the scenery is sensational and
we can see close hand the villages
and farms tucked away in the valleys.
It’s not all rock here, after all. Green
corn crops, date palms, juniper, peach,
pear, walnut and olive trees appear,
mostly growing along the wadis that
run with water when the December rains
come. Patchwork farms nestle in gullies,
including a property owned by Oman’s
Sultan, His Majesty Qaboos bin Said
al-Said. (Oman is one of two Sultanates
in the world – the other is Brunei.)
Suddenly, as if on call, there’s an
entirely unexpected flash flood and the
CLOCKWISE (from far left):
the private pool and outdoor
dining area that overlooks the
gorge in the Jabal villa;
the large stone bath in Jowz
downside of the range runs with rivulets
villa; Nakhal Fort; a private
house on the banks of the of water. In April and May these same
Al Thowarah hot springs in landscapes are coloured pink, covered
the Jabal Akhdar (green
by a rash of damask roses that produce
mountains); purple salad sold
by the side of the road; an the precious essences and the water
Omani pomegranate. that flavours Omani cooking. The only
PREVIOUS PAGE (from left):
pink we spot in October comes from the
the pool and spa area at
luxurious Muscat hotel, piles of glossy pomegranates farmers
The Chedi; a remote are selling by the side of the road.
mosque in the Jabal
Oman is the most romantic and
Akhdar mountains.
beautiful of the countries on the Arabian
Peninsula and the most accessible
for westerners. The Omanis are known
for their hospitality, and in these
hidden villages, locals will ply you with
pomegranates, dates and coffee and
invite you into their homes – their
openness is legendary. They practise a
tolerant form of Islam known as Ibadism,
which is moderate in acceptance of other
religions and views. It’s a modern country,
where women are highly educated and the
infrastructure – schools, public buildings,
roads – is superb, but it also feels like a step
way back in time to the Arabian Nights,
with its souqs, robed residents (men wear
long dishdasha, the women are veiled and
jewelled) and ancient forts and markets
where the Bedouin bring their goats.
The capital, Muscat, is a glittering city
of low white buildings strung along the
warm Gulf of Oman. The interior desert,
part of the ‘Empty Quarter’ that reaches
into the United Arab Emirates, contains
a stretch of longitudinal dunes that can
be 200 metres high; the 1700 kilometres
of coastline is lush, gorgeous and mostly
untouched. In the south, in Salalah, it’s
as green as Ireland in the wet season.

delicious.com.au 131
GLOBAL FLAVOURS.

CLOCKWISE (from
guests rush out into the open, dancing far left): Nizwa Fort
around in the rain. It’s a joyful moment market, where the
Bedouin sell their
for people who rarely see rain. goats; the high
pass in the Jabal
ARABIAN TRADITION Akhdar mountains;
the lobby at The
Alila is steeped in the culture of the Chedi, Muscat.
mountain and the ‘open house’ tradition
DIZZYING HEIGHTS of hospitality, which goes back to the time
Alila Jabal Akhdar sits, spellbindingly, when traders travelled these routes with
on the edge of a steep ravine on the top their donkeys. The resort’s management
of the Sayq Plateau with only a perimeter even hired locals to fill the staggering
fence of logs between guests and the architecture with heart and soul. More
valley hundreds of metres below. Although than a hundred mountain people walked
inspired by the traditional stone and log to the resort for interviews, many of them
houses that dot the mountains, the resort local farmers who brought their sons.
looks more like something you’d expect Some of the bellboys were raised as goat
to find in New Mexico. herders (they’ve got extremely strong
Making the most of the local granite, legs for carrying luggage) and the guides
the walls of the 78-room resort (which and doormen are from nearby villages,
also includes six suites and two villas) connecting the community to the resort.
are built entirely of stone. The stark The local juniper leaf is Alila’s symbol
landscape is laced with traditional aflaj (and Juniper is the name of its restaurant), slats. The focus of the design is the view
irrigation systems, which bring the cooling the resort’s curtains and baskets are all – we’re only metres from the ridge of the
sound of running water to the resort. Clay hand-woven by local women, and pottery plateau here. Twinkling in the distance
pot fountains and an alluring outdoor from the ancient fortified city of Bahla at night is the valley town Al Hamra.
infinity pool further mitigate the natural decorates the lobby We could stay privately ensconced in
starkness of the environment. We’re about to spend two unforgettable this self-contained villa (it has a kitchen
It’s about 15 degrees Celsius cooler nights in Villa Jowz (‘walnut’). Covering where staff can prepare meals) for days,
up here than in Muscat, which makes it 361 square metres, it has two bedrooms but the main building is the hotel’s hub,
a popular summer destination, not only at either end of the house, with a vast with the Juniper restaurant, a number
for Omanis escaping the heat, but for sitting room and enormous Omani-style of lounges and bars, an indoor pool
weekend visitors from the Emirates. dining/meeting room in between. There’s (for winter days when the temperature
We arrive on a Sunday and the a kitchen, walk-in dressing rooms and plummets outside) and a beautiful spa.
restaurant is filled with visiting Emirati two bathrooms – the largest including
families. As we’re sipping our welcome a bath as big as a boat, hewn out of a MOUNTAIN CUISINE
drink of iced ginger tea with za’atar and single piece of stone. All the rooms open Like many Arabic countries, Oman is as
honey, a sudden thunderstorm brings up onto a deck with a long, private infinity much about the food as it as about the
a flash flood of rain and hail and the pool and a cabana made from timber landscape. At Alila, the hotel’s executive

132 delicious.com.au
CLOCKWISE (from
left): wild long-haired
goats roam the Jabal
Akhdar mountains;
a pomegranate tree;
pomegranate salad
VISITING MUSCAT at Juniper restaurant
Muscat is one of the world’s most with mixed lettuce
exotic cities and an exceptionally pomegranate, feta and
honey vinaigrette.
safe place to wander around. Omanis
are friendly, generous and tolerant,
although it’s essential to be covered
correctly when visiting mosques, chef, Daniel Johnson, works with local walnut ice cream, basbousa, semolina
such as the awe-inspiring SULTAN growers, following what the season offers, cake soaked in syrup with lemon sorbet,
QABOOS GRAND MOSQUE, from pomegranates and mountain honey and kunafa, which is shredded kataifi
completed in 2001. The city is to fresh rosewater from some of the pastry with mango, pistachio and mango
situated on an old port, where the nearby rose farms (there are 90 in the sorbet. There’s also a meltingly flaky
Sultan lives in one of his eight palaces. region). The menus have been tweaked baklava served with pistachio ice cream.
The neighbouring town of to lighten the traditionally heavy mountain For dinner, there’s a lavish spread
MUTRAH with its lovely corniche, cooking for modern palates. – the Emiratis like buffets, apparently.
a waterfront boulevard lined with Breakfast on the terrace of Juniper As we pile our plates high, we’re treated
charming old Portuguese houses, is begins with pomegranate juice, pancakes to one of the regular and glorious sunsets
a must-visit. the highlight of Mutrah with an Omani edge, slathered in sweet, that stretch across the enormous horizon,
is its 200 year-old, labyrinthine souq unctuous date syrup, and pots of coffee. followed by a crisp sky of sparkling stars.
(marketplace) with its shops selling For lunch, there are various mezzes
pungent perfume in jewelled bottles including creamy labneh, raita, falafel and SIDE TRIPS
and the traders hawking gold crunchy fattoush salad, served with warm Visitors can get to know the mountains
jewellery, khanjars (traditional bread. A brilliant beetroot salad with feta and its people with excursions organised
daggers), sacks of frankincense, and preserved lemon is sprinkled with by the hotel, including trekking, canyon
copper coffee pots and burqas from pomegranate seeds. Hot soup might seem walks, cave exploration, a visit to the
holes-in-the-wall. It is in the souq you an anomaly but it is a spicy tomato-based Friday goat market in Nizwa or to a
should try the Omani coffee – a rich harira with lentils and bulgur. rosewater distillery, and a walking tour
brew infused with cardamom. The menu includes chicken or pumpkin of the picturesque abandoned village
Muscat’s most beautiful resort, b’stilla with cinnamon and ginger, a tagine of Wadi Bani Habib.
THE CHEDI MUSCAT, is situated on of vegetables, beef or lamb, a manakish On the route back to Muscat, it’s worth
the Gulf of Oman near the centre (flatbread) of olives, cheese, minced lamb a stop at the magnificent Nakhal Fort,
of the city, amid 21 acres of gardens, and chilli, or chargrilled tenderloin, chicken which exists very much as it did in the
pools and restaurants and bars. And or fish, with sides of carrots with cinnamon 17th century, and a trip to Nizwa to the
with superb food (executive sous chef and orange zest, and fried eggplant with centuries-old markets and to walk
David Pooley is from Sydney) and one garlic, thyme and yoghurt. the cool passages of its imposing fort
of the most glamorous spas, The Omanis are fond of sweets (the (where less friendly visitors were once
Chedi is one of the coolest places in local saffron-laced halwa is sensational) greeted with boiling date syrup.)
town. lhw.com/TheChediMuscat. and Alila doesn’t disappoint. On offer Alila Jabal Akhdar. Rooms from $715.
is mohalabia, a custard served with alilahotels.com/jabalakhdar.
The best
souvenirs are stories
worth telling
It’s easy to get lost in the routine of ‘Come Back New Promise’ offers guests
daily life. Which is why it’s so important new and enriching experiences – like our
to step away and reconnect with your partnership with award-winning Australian
life. And there’s no better way than on a chef and restaurateur, Curtis Stone, the
cruise with Princess®. new Princess Luxury Bed, designed for the
ultimate night of sleep at sea; creations
Out at sea, you’re free to relax, unwind from master chocolatier Norman Love;
and feel the joy of the journey. More than our Discovery at SeaTM experiences and
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CHECK IN
1
Enjoy the good old (luxurious)
days at Adelaide’s boutique
MAYFAIR HOTEL. With bespoke
mattresses (they patented their own
design), you’re guaranteed to be
sound asleep after a feast of Euro
classics at the white-clothed
Mayflower Restaurant (think oysters,
chateaubriand, duck fat chips and a
French patisserie trolley for dessert)
and a nightcap with a view of the
Adelaide Hills in Hennessey bar (left)
made with honey from the rooftop
bees. mayfairhotel.com.au.

2
Featuring 94 private villas set
among the eucalypts, brand

TRAVEL NEWS
new ELEMENTS OF BYRON
(above) is ideal for those in need of a
city time-out. Laze by the infinity pool,
graze on chef Justin Dingle-Garciyya’s
share menu, or succumb to a facial
Hot destinations, cool stays, travel essentials & everything in transit. at the Osprey Spa – with options
like these, you may never leave.
elementsofbyron.com.au.

JET SET Dreaming of an African safari? A luxury tour with


Abercrombie & Kent via private jet may just be the ticket. But
for a cool $122K, we’re still dreaming. abercrombiekent.com.au.

BEER TRAIL

PRODUCT PAGE PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS


• The world’s best hops, pure water and
locally-grown grain make Tasmania a

WORDS HEIDI FINNANE, SHANNON HARLEY & SHARNEE RAWSON


beer brewer’s (and drinker’s) paradise.
The 20-strong breweries are producing
some of the most interesting ales in the
country, and have banded together to
SAVING FACE U -Ì>Þ} vÀiÃv>Vi` `y}Ì Ã i>ÃÞ ÜÌ launch THETASMANIAN BEER TRAIL,
Beauty Essentials compact y}Ì  7«ià ­fÓ°
x®° iVV>°V °>Õ° a state-wide craft beer trail winding all
• Say au revoir Ì ÃÌÀiÃà ià ÜÌ Ìi La Prairie fast-acting Anti-Aging the way from Moo Brew in Bridgewater
,>«` ,ië Ãi ÃÌiÀ ­xä ] fÎÈä®° /i «iÀviVÌ «Ài `>Þ to Little River Brewery in Scottsdale. Hobart has a bevy of new breweries to
«ViÕ«° >«À>Ài°V °>Õ° U ->Ûi «ÀiV ÕÃ L>}}>}i > Ü>Vi  showcase, including Last Rites, Double Head Brewing and Hobart Brewing
Þ ÕÀ iÝÌ ÌÀ« ÜÌ à ¼½ iÀ Ì  iÌÀið "ÕÀ «V¶ Dermalogica Special Co, complete with fire-pit and food-truck-friendly beer garden. Up in

i>Ã} i ­xä ] f£Ç® >` Õ ÌƂVÌÛi / iÀ ­xä ] f£È®] ÜV Launceston, the ultra-hip KICK|SNARE has made waves with a low-alcohol
` ÕL iÃ>Ã>y}ÌÞ`À>ÌiÀqL ÌÌÀ>Ûi Ãâi°`iÀ> }V>°V °>Õ° raspberry sour brew that challenges sour beer norms, and a few hours west,
micro-brewery Seven Sheds owner Willie Simpson uses locally-grown quinoa
Edited by Heidi Finnane: @runsandheids @heidifinnane and Peruvian cacao in his Black Inca ale. Visit: tasbeertrail.com.

DELICIOUS.COM.AU/TRAVEL Go online for more travel news from Australia and around the world.

136 delicious.com.au
INSIDER.

FESTIVAL FEVER
With food festival season kicking off, we round up the
must-have essentials for the food-loving traveller.

2
3 4 5 6
1

7 8 9

10 11

12 13

14 15
16

18
17

19

1. Valextra ‘North South’ leather tote, $2748, valextra.com. 2. Neridah Winter ‘Bermuda’ straw hat, $240, neridawinter.com. 3. Petite Grand ‘Fancy Chain’ gold
bracelet $163, petitegrand.com. 4. Petite Grand ‘Big Bar’ gold bracelet, $141, petitegrand.com. 5. Mecca Cosmetica ‘To Save Face’ SPF30+ facial sunscreen, $38
(100g), mecca.com.au. 6. Helmut Lang eau de parfum, $279 (100ml), helmutlang.com. 7. The Daily Edited leather luggage tag in taupe, $54.95, thedailyedited.com.
8. Sachajuan strong hold hair spray, $18 (75ml), and volume powder, $40 (200ml), sachajuan.com.au. 9. Capri Positano ‘Roman’ leather sandals, $190,
capripositanosandals.com. 10. Knotty Turkish towel in stars, $69, from The Collector Store, (02) 9699 7740. 11. Illesteva ‘Tribeca’ sunglasses in matte black, $250,
mychameleon.com.au. 12. Opus Lomo’ instant camera , $190, opusdesign.com.au. 13. Oliver Peoples ‘Fairmont 47 Rx’ low ball glass, $500 oliverpeoples.com.
14. Marvis toothpaste in aquatic mint, $13.50, and toothbrush, $5.95, marvisaustralia.com.au. 15. Victorinox ‘Evowood 17’ pocket knife in walnut, $139, victorinox.
com. 16. Matteau Swim the petite triangle top in khaki, $95, and the classic brief in khaki, $95, matteau-swim.com. 17. Coconut Revolution beauty kit, $39.95 (95g),
coconutrevolution.com.au. 18. Ici et La cutting board, $300, icietla.com.au. 19. Daniel Wellington ‘St Andrews’ watch, $329, danielwellington.com/au.
INSIDER.

24 hours in
HOLE IN ONE

9.00am
Kick off the day with the best Montreal-style
bagel outside, well, Montreal. According to

AUCKLAND
legendary kiwi chef Al Brown these thin, sweet
wood-fired bagels are better than their more
famous New York cousins, and his bagels at
Best Ugly (cnr Wellesley and Nelson Sts) give
both a run for their money. Hand-rolled and
wood-fired over Manuka hard wood, it’s worth
New Zealand’s city of sails is a veritable going downtown for these doughy rings alone.
treasure trove for foodies and fashionistas
HIGH FASHION
alike, writes Magdalena Roze, who uncovers

10:30am
Head waterfront to Auckland’s hip designer hub
the best places to wine and dine. Britomart (130 Quay St), home to some serious
homegrown fashion talent, including Karen
@magdalena_roze Walker, Zambesi and Kate Sylvester. The ferry
terminal is just minutes away, so why not escape
the city and wind down at Waiheke Island for
lunch? First wander to uber cool diner The Store
(5b Gore St) and perk up with one of the city’s
best coffees to sip on during the ferry ride.

ISLAND TIME

12:30pm
Waiheke Island is the pride of Auckland,
renowned for its natural beauty, wineries and
oysters. Hop on a bus to take you straight to
the island’s quaint seaside high street for fresh
seafood and excellent service at The Oyster
Inn (124 Oceanview Rd, Oneroa). If you prefer
to dine among the vines, take a cab to the
picturesque Stonyridge Vineyard (80 Onetangi
Rd) for exceptional wines, views and food.

COCKTAIL HOUR
5.00pm

Back on the mainland, check in to the retro


Hotel DeBrett (2 High St) in the heart of the
CBD, where the Art Deco-style cocktail bar is
a destination in itself. Or for drinks with a view,
Sky Tower (pictured – Victoria St W and Federal
St) has the best vantage of the city. Daredevils
can even jump a gut-curdling 192 metres from
the tower or take a walk around the platform.

DINNER TIME
7:30pm

Stroll across the road for dinner at Depot Eatery


(86 Federal St), another Al Brown venture, and
arguably the hippest place in town. Start off with
oysters from the excellent raw bar, then wrestle
over unpretentious share plates including turbot
sliders. Prefer fine dining? Dego-only Meredith’s
(365 Dominion Rd, Mt Eden) is innovative and
intimate, or head to Clooney (33 Sale St) if you’re
after sexy booths and mood lighting.
PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM NEW ZEALAND

NIGHT CAP
10:30pm

For a late night tipple in a bar so cool that even


the locals haven’t heard about it, head to Mo’s
(cnr Wolfe & Federal Sts). Here cocktails are king
and cigars rule, making you feel at home among
the Rat Pack photos and Cuban beats.

delicious.com.au/travel
For more international city travel guides.

138 delicious.com.au
®

An irresistible range of
chef-inspired gourmet recipes
POSTCARD.

CATCHER IN THE RYE


In a tiny bakery in the heart of Sweden, travel writer Caroline Hamilton unearths
the secrets to real Nordic bread, and nabs a winning recipe to use up the leftovers.

EVEN A VISITOR TO IKEA can recognise Swedish culinary classics such as APPLE & CARDAMOM RYE CAKE
kanelbulle (cinnamon rolls) or the open-faced smorgas sandwich, but beneath SERVES 8
the pearl sugar and the smoked salmon there’s another ingredient that’s even
more essential to Nordic food: rye flour. 150g unsalted butter
It’s only when I find myself in front of the sweltering ovens in a downtown 4 eggwhites
Stockholm bakery at four in the morning with master baker Tina Fernlund, 150g pure icing sugar, plus extra to serve
that I begin to appreciate how varied and underrated rye bread really is. 60g almond meal
A few minutes with Fernlund and I discover a range of Nordic breads, each with 70g self-raising flour, sifted
its own special qualities: Finnish ruis bread, Swedish limpa, German pumpernickel 3 tsp baking powder
and Danish rugbrod. From her tiny Green Rabbit bakery in the Vasastan district of 1 tsp salt
Stockholm, Fernlund is leading the charge for a return to old rye-baking traditions. 2 pink lady apples, peeled, grated
Working exclusively with rye and heritage wheat sourced from two small local 1/2 tsp ground cardamom

producers just outside the city, she makes traditional sourdoughs, dark rye loaves, 1 cup (85g) firmly packed rye breadcrumbs
sweet breads studded with plums and almonds, and even crisp bread. Double cream, to serve
“Rye is an ancient food,” Fernlund says. “Although wheat long ago replaced rye
as the industrial baker’s go-to grain, various people in Northern Europe have grown Preheat oven to 200°C. Grease and line
different varieties of rye for centuries, and each rye has its own special qualities.” Rye the base and sides of a 20cm springform
can produce breads that are dense and dark, or sweet and fruity, and each needs its cake pan with baking paper.
own kind of treatment. “At the moment I’m working with a rye that results in a wetter Cook butter in a pan over medium heat
for 5 minutes or until browned. Transfer
“FROM THE TINY GREEN RABBIT BAKERY, to a heatproof bowl and cool slightly.

FERNLUND MAKES TRADITIONAL Place the eggwhite and icing sugar in


an electric mixer and whisk on medium
SOURDOUGHS, DARK RYE LOAVES, SWEET speed for 5 minutes or until stiff peaks.

BREADS STUDDED WITH PLUMS AND Add almond meal, flour, baking powder
and salt. Whisk on low speed until almost
ALMONDS, AND EVEN CRISP BREAD.”

RECIPE TINA FERNLUND BAKERY PHOTOGRAPHY MARTIN RUNEBORG


combined, then, with the motor running,

FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS


slowly add the browned butter until
dough – it’s taken me some time to establish a good working relationship,” she jokes as completely combined. Remove bowl
she shapes her loaves. “Like all good things, rye needs time,” Fernlund says. “If wheat from mixer and gently fold in apples,
is the sprinter, rye is the marathon runner!” cardamom and breadcrumbs.
There’s very little gluten in rye, and it’s a different kind to that in wheat, so it doesn’t Pour batter into prepared pan and
respond in the same way. This means that the same techniques that work for wheat bake for 35-40 minutes until a skewer
don’t always work for rye. Rye breads, for example, need about 12-14 hours to prove. inserted into the centre comes out clean.
That can mean it’s more complex to work with, but also more rewarding. “It has a Remove from the oven and cool for
flavour that makes excess salt and sugar unnecessary, it’s low-GI, and unlike wheaten 15 minutes. Remove cake from pan, then
breads, rye bread actually tastes better after a few days!” place a wire rack over top of cake and
And when a few days becomes a week, Fernlund has a solution – a classic Swedish dust with icing sugar to create lines.
“recycle recipe” as she puts it – bread cake that transforms an old rye loaf into a rustic Serve cake with double cream.
apple cake. Perfect for a Swedish fika (coffee break) with a difference.
delicious.com.au/recipes
For more recipes inspired
Download our enhanced Share your travel snaps
@foodtastica_feed App for Cook Mode with us @deliciousAUS by beautiful places.

140 delicious.com.au
CLOCKWISE
(from top left):
sweet cakes studded with
seasonal fruits at Green Rabbit
bakery; apple & cardamom
rye cake; smorgas at Green
Rabbit bakery; local ferries in
Stockholm; loaves are made
with local rye and heritage
wheat flour; rye apple cake.
WEL L IN GTO N
LOCAVORE.

New Zealand’s capital may be known as ‘the windy city’, but it has a new status as the capital
of cool, thanks to its booming arts culture and food and drink scene that’s taking over the
inner-city laneways. Jos Ruffell from Garage Project takes us on a tour.

WORDS KERRIE MCCALLUM @kerrie_mccallum

View of Wellington
from Mount Victoria

delicious.com.au 145
LOCAVORE.

1
GARAGE LIFE
Jos Ruffell, along with brothers Pete
and Ian Gillespie started craft brewery
Garage Project (68 Aro St, Aro Valley)
in the site of a derelict petrol station in 2011.
Initially brewing out of a tiny 50 litre tank, the
award-winning brewery now includes over
60 beers, all of which feature different graphic

N
artworks on the labels. The drops, which include
Aro Noir, a black full-flavoured stout; Artful
Dodger, an English pale ale with a twist; and
the aptly named Beer, a simple pilsner with saaz
hops; can be sampled over the road at Taproom
(left – 91 Aro St), where you’ll find a selection of

2
beers on tap, plus cans, bottles and food bites.

ew Zealand’s capital may sometimes


play second fiddle to Auckland, but its
emerging creative culture has earned
it the moniker ‘capital of cool’. It’s also
given rise to a new wave of great food, wine, coffee and art hot
spots, which is small wonder given its youthful population, proximity
to amazing produce and position between two top wine regions.
A supportive community vibe is a signature of Wellington,
with many of the local restaurants and bars stocking other
small supplier’s products. Hannah’s Laneway is one of the
BREAD ND
BREAKINEG JESSE A E
OTH RSU
most interesting food precincts; the narrow street is home
to bakers, roasters, grinders, brewers, chocolatiers, a peanut WHEN BRO F TI KO KA CAF
butter factory and soda makers, and has recently undergone SHEP NNOUNCED THEY
PE
a transformation from Wellington City Council as part of an FAME A PENING LEEDS ST
initiative to improve the city’s 70 laneways. WERE O(14 LEEDS ST) FANS
Wellington has also become a global hub for craft brewers, BAKERY FAMOUS SALTED
with no fewer than 17 breweries taking up residence around the OF THEIREL COOKIES WERE
city. The Garage Project is arguably Wellington’s premier brewer CARAM D. THE PAIR HAVE ’S
(it was named New Zealand’s fastest growing business in 2015), THRILLE NSFORM HANNAH B
A U
with its quirky set up in a former garage (hence the name) and
HELPED TYRIN TO A C ULINARY SH,
tap bar with 20 unique brews available daily. Both spots are hubs
LANEWATHEIR FRESH BREASD. ADD
for locals to congregate and sample the daily specials (Cereal WITH SANDWIC HE
ND M
Milk Stout is a hipster favourite, made with real corn flakes). Jos
PAST RIES A
-O RIG IN COF E FRO
FE
C O .
Ruffell, international beer expert and one of the three founders
A SINGLEED RABBIT COFFEET.
of Garage Project, can often be found with his two dogs, Mila
ONSITE RMORNINGS ARE SE
and Monte, knocking back a brew or two in the bar. Here he AND
reveals his top spots to eat, play and drink in the emerging
foodie destination that Wellington has become.
3HEAD FOR
THE HILLS
Tiny Hillside Kitchen
& Cellar (241 Tinakori
Rd) delivers cold brew
coffee and a concise,
yet delicious blackboard

4
breakfast and lunch
menu by day, before chef
and owner Asher Boote
(of The Ramen Shop fame)
ramps up to his constantly
BRUNCH
changing and effortlessly
DATE
Brothers Enzo and Nardi Bresolin grew
clever three and four
up with hospitality in their blood and it shows
course menus by night.
at The Bresolin (278 Willis St, Te Aro), just a
Dishes such as hapuka,
stone’s throw from The Garage Project. Housed
butternut, cauliflower and in a restored villa with a courtyard to settle into, it’s
mandarin (above) are all the kind of place to head to on weekends for a long
matched with co-owner brunch or lunch made for sharing among friends.
and sommelier Jules van Current favourites being sent out from chef Lucas
Cruysen’s well-curated Tock’s kitchen are tender 12-hour slow-roasted lamb
beer and wine selection. shoulder with salsa verde and braised beef short
rib served with house-made kimchi and burnt
pineapple where the sweet and
heat combo alongside the beef
is pure genius.

(PEANUT) BUTTERFINGERS
5
If the peanut butter flag is out, poke your head into the hole-in-the-wall
‘nut buttery’ where the team behind Fix and Fogg (Eva St) produce
their delicious spreads. Making just four varieties of PB – smooth, extra
crunchy, smoke & fire, as well as a new dark chocolate blend – they’re
dedicated to producing high-quality products with no additives or
preservatives. “My go-to? Hands down the smoke and fire,” says
Ruffell. “Inventive, an unusual combo, and it just works.”

delicious.com.au 147
6. BEST OF THE BURGERS
Once a basement carpark,

features a regularly changing seasonal


menu in a sleek industrial-chic space filled with dark woods
and ambient pendant lighting. The winner here (quite
literally) is the aged Angus burger with smoked beet relish,
pickled onions and jack cheese all served on a freshly steamed
bun (above) – it took out the gong for Visa Wellington On
a Plate 2015’s Burger Wellington competition. Delish!

8
MELT IN

7
YOUR MOUTH
Wellington Chocolate
Factory (5 Eva St, Te Aro)
make organic products
lovingly using traditional
N
EUROVISEIO
artisan methods that date

D O N CH F AURAER
L back to the 18th century.
LO N RTN
LD AND PSAON’S
“Each year they release
GREENFIEA FERG U
RAECH LVE
special Easter eggs, and

IM E N U E FIELD &) IS this year they did a craft


DAY T K T
EFIELD SO
(262 W A beer version,” says Ruffell
GREEN OR ROBUST EUR A excitedly. For those who
A HIT F D FLAVOURS IN aren’t craft brewers, try
SOUL FOSOHED DINING ROOX M
,
hazelnut or salted brittle
A
WHITEW BEETROOT GRAVL SH A caramel dark chocolate
– THINK SALMON AND WE O L bars presented in
POTTED IT. DON’T FORGET TD’S wrappers designed
RAREB SSERT, GREENFIEL by local artists.
ORDER DEEAM IS LEGENDARY.
ICE CR

148 delicious.com.au
LOCAVORE.

9 SODA
FACTORY
Six Barrel Soda (Lv 1, 33-35 Dixon
St), has fast become a mainstay
for locals, with its boutique soda blends
available from many local cafes, bars and
grocery stores. Six Barrel have created
unique flavours such as feijoa, celery tonic

1
and hibiscus, all with fresh ingredients.
The brand’s HQ also serves snacks
and meals in an upstairs space
with a great view for
people watching.
GOLD RUSH
Tucked down Leeds Street is Golding’s
Free Dive (14 Leeds St), a zany little
craft beer bar with buckets for
11. ALL HUNG UP lampshades and awnings made from
old skis. “There’s always a great line up
Located in the boutique culinary enclave of local and international beers,” says
that is Hannah’s Laneway, Ruffell. “It’s a relatively small selection
which makes it highly curated and in
(14 Leeds St) is a new cocktail bar in moody good rotation, so it’s nice and fresh.”
Golding’s is a free house, meaning they
brick and leather, manned by experienced shakers can put anything they like on tap, and
always up for a chin wag. Try a quirky cocktail such swap out beers often, so breweries from
all over NZ can have their turn. Patrons
as the ‘Smoke and Cross’ with Irish whisky and can also order pizza from nearby Pizza
Pomodoro and have it delivered to
manuka smoke to start, or end, a night out. their table while they imbibe.

LACED UP AND READY TO GO


Bustling, intimate, and housed in an Art Deco era boot factory, WBC (Lv 1,
107 Victoria St) is a go-to option for lunch or dinner, where a spot at the bar
gives prime views straight into the energetic little kitchen. Seafood is the
specialty with an array of oysters and clams always on hand to kick things
off, with the rest of the menu adding global touches, from green papaya
sambal with market fish, chermoula with lamb chops, or an Ecuadorian
ceviche for the summer time. Sommelier Matt Bocock’s wine list is heavy
on NZ whites to pair with seafood, or beers to try with food.
12
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152 delicious.com.au
RECIPE INDEX & DIRECTORY.

RECIPE
INDEX
MAY 2016

STARTERS & LIGHT MEALS Roasted Brussels sprouts, chorizo Nutella pie............................................... 69
Chia grissini with prosciutto .................. 125 & Taleggio pasta..................................... 96 Passionfruit melting moments ............... 109
Easy ciabatta (v)..................................... 125 Sausage & thyme ragu ............................... 92 Pear, maple syrup & brown butter pies
Garlic & preserved lemon Spicy pepperoni & burrata flatbread.......... 92 with cinnamon spelt crust .................... 70
rainbow chard (v) ................................. 22 Thai-style chicken wings with Pistachio, orange & chocolate
Garlic & rye bagels (v)............................ 103 lemongrass and chilli .............................. 94 mousse brownie................................... 86
Glazed pumpkin with crispy Twice-cooked spare ribs Rhubarb, strawberry, balsamic
chickpeas and paneer (v) ..................... 74 with bourbon glaze ................................. 60 & thyme pie ......................................... 66
Gluten-free potato, leek & Roasted strawberry & cream pie ............. 69
creme fraiche galette (v) ...................... 44 SWEET THINGS Honey & ginger brulee pie...................... 69
Graunty Janna’s cheesy jalapeno Apple & cardamom rye cake ................. 140 Salted choc-chip cookies....................... 111
cornbread (v)........................................ 62 Apple & cinnamon creme caramel cakes .. 85 Schiacciata with vincotto cherries.......... 122
Maple-candied sweet potato (v).............. 60 Apple & ginger slab pie .......................... 62 Sesame & date cheesecake................... 116
No-knead spelt & pumpkin bread Baked berry cheesecake........................ 118 Spiced apple Chelsea buns..................... 46
with tarragon butter (v) ...................... 104 Banoffle (cookie dough waffle sandwiches Sweet panzerotti with ricotta
Seared bonito salad with with banoffee cheesecake) .................. 82 and raspberries.................................. 122
horseradish dressing............................ 22 Blackberry & ginger pie........................... 66 Teff hotcakes with tea infused
Southern-style baked beans.................... 60 Bran & brown rice carrot muffins maple syrup ....................................... 103
Spiced carrot & lentil soup (v).................. 77 with ginger icing ................................ 103 Vanilla butter shortbread ....................... 111
Tandoori eggplant skewers (v) ................. 74 Cardamom pistachio cookies ................ 112 Vanilla rice pudding with roast quince .... 25
Chocolate chai fudge cake...................... 42
MAINS Chocolate terrine................................... 118 DRINKS & EXTRAS
Baked butter chicken.................................. 96 Cinnamon buckwheat crumpets Dark chocolate ganache.......................... 38
Baked cauliflower risotto with with thyme honey .............................. 103 Iced green tea with ginger ...................... 60
sage and hazelnuts (v) ............................ 92 Cotton cheesecake with honey plums ..... 118 Raspberry Swiss meringue buttercream .. 38
Butterflied chicken with Easy vanilla cake with Savoury gluten-free pastry (v) .................. 44
chargrilled lemon.................................... 22 passionfruit buttercream...................... 48 Vanilla & lemon frosting........................... 38
Cavolo nero & sausage pizza ................... 122 Espresso cheesecakes ........................... 116 (v) denotes vegetarian recipes
Dukkah-crusted blue-eye with Espresso martini layer cake ..................... 82
roasted garlic mayo ................................ 94 Gin & tonic tart with candied lemon ....... 85

DIRECTORY
Indian samosa pie with minted yoghurt (v) .74 Ginger snap & chocolate mousse
Oven-roasted meatballs with sandwiches ........................................ 109
kale pesto and mozzarella ...................... 92 Gluten-free coconut & lemon macarons.. 112 Beans + Jazz, (02) 9332 1810,
Oxtail pot-au-feu......................................... 40 Indian doughnuts .................................... 77 beansandjazz.com.au
Emily Ziz Style Studio,
(02) 9380 4180, emilyziz.com
OFFICIAL TEST KITCHEN SUPPLIERS: Our meat is supplied by Vic’s Meat (vicsmeat.com.au).
We use Wüsthof knives (for stockists, tel: 1800 099 266).

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delicious.com.au 153
INNOVATORS.

CHANGE OF TUNA
Walker Seafoods were Produce Awards finalists for a reason, attracting
attention for their sustainable practice. Anthony Huckstep weighs anchor.

I ONCE WORKED WITH a lady who hated eating. In fact, if it Once on board, the fish are killed via the traditional Japanese
weren’t vital for survival she’d gladly give eating a miss. Once technique, ikejime, where a quick spike to the brain humanly
a week she dined on canned tuna in the office, but not nicely paralyses the fish, ensuring quality. They are then placed in brine
tossed through a salad or on a sandwich with cucumber. Just tanks at 0°C. Fish hang by their tales suspended in a state near
nuked, obliterated, given a napalm death in the zapper. The freezing point, helping maintain their freshness and colour.
pungent stench of her gift to gastronomy made it feel like I was On land, Pavo and Heidi guide me into the grading room at
working on the canning line of a Whiskers factory. contractor Debrett’s Seafood. Gary Heilman is the chief grader
Needless to say I’ve not eaten canned tuna since. Not that and something of a ‘Sashimi Rain Man’. He can grade a fish
there’s anything wrong with it, but those cans of tuna couldn’t be as sashimi grade for Japan and once sold on the auction floor
further from the stunning silver bullets swimming the seas between he’ll remember the exact detailing of its flesh to know why it
Cape York, Queensland and the border of South Australia and received a certain price.
Victoria. This vast area is home to the Eastern Tuna and Billfish One by one, tuna slide along stainless steel benches, their
Fishery (ETBF) and Walker Seafoods, who recently earned Marine chrome barrel bodies glistening. The jagged yellow fins along the
Stewardship Council (MSC) certification for sustainable fishing extremities as bright as the Mooloolaba sun. Gary slices a small
of yellowfin tuna, albacore tuna and broadbill swordfish – the first chunk from the tail of one and holds the red flesh in front of me.
Australian business to achieve the MSC global standard. Walker “That’s a really nice A-grade sashimi fish,” he says. There’s no
Seafoods, based in Mooloolaba and owned by Heidi and Pavo rainbow when you move it – like a hologram. Just nice strong
Walker, have been working over the last four years with the ruby colour and a glossy sheen to the meat. “This one will go
MSC to ensure they met the strict regulations. to Japan,” he says. But contrary to common belief, not all our
“We err on the side of caution, much like the precautionary best tuna goes overseas. The fishery is so well managed that
principle – it’s almost like a no-take fishery,” explains Pavo. each fish is chosen for each client. All tuna is sold fresh, and
Walkers operate with four small boats and when I visit, their in most circumstances, whole. None goes to canneries.
It’s fresh fish sustainably caught and not just destined

“WALKER SEAFOODS ARE THE for the premium markets of Japan, the US and Europe
but to the back door of some of our best restaurants
FIRST AUSTRALIAN BUSINESS such as Rockpool Bar & Grill. “Neil [Perry] wants

TO ACHIEVE THE MSC a certain level of quality for his fish – we hand
select the one that goes to him, as we do
GLOBAL STANDARD.” for all our clients,” says Heidi.

PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS


boats are out for twelve days, but fishing
for just nine of them.“It’s called a moon fishery,
because we use squid for our bait,” he explains.
Fishermen here catch tuna by the light of a full moon
because tuna naturally feed on squid that come to the
surface attracted by the light.
Tuna and swordfish are caught on long line – essentially
a drum sends out the line with a series of single-baited hooks
on it. The hooks are usually set shallower than 300m with the @huckstergram @anthuckstep
system using bird mitigation devices to prevent bycatch at the
surface, and designed to prevent turtles being caught too.
Most of the tuna they pull in range from 20-60kg.“You can delicious.com.au/food-files
get them up to 80kg,” says Pavo. “Swordfish can be anything For more stories on Australian innovators, including
barramundi farmers and hand-pulled noodle masters.
from 20-200kg.”

154 delicious.com.au
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