Little Red Riding Hood Sewing Pattern

By Dolls And Daydreams

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 Little Red Riding Hood Sewing Pattern
By Dolls And Daydreams
Fabric choices.

 For the body and face I use pre washed 100% cotton. One fabric for the skin– face and arms
(pink), another (green) for her legs/tights/pantyhose, and a different one (pretty patterned) for the
body/dress. I use two different colored fabric for her Cape – Red outer, pretty patterned inner.
 For her shoes, hair, mushroom appliques, shirt, basket & cookies I use wool felt. If the doll is
intended for very young children I recommend an anti pill felt (such as wool felt) as that dolly
will be getting a lot of Love & Kisses!!!

Supplies for Doll

Pre washed cotton fabric (1/2yard total for

Doll)
Felt (3 - 8.5 x 11 sheets for hair) scrap for
collar & hair mushroom
Paper pattern
Scissors/ Rotary cutter
Tailors chalk/ pencil/pen
Safe cutting surface.
Polly Fill (stuffing)
Embroidery thread
Ribbon Scraps
Lace (14.5 inches (37 cm) for 1 dress layer)

1) Using your pattern, cut out your pre washed and ironed fabric and your choice of colored felt. A
¼ inch seam allowance has already been added. I like to use a rotary cutter especially on the
large curves of the head.
Mushroom Applique Construction

2) Using your pattern as a guide pin the spots and underside of the mushroom onto the mushroom
cap.

3) Using a contrasting colored embroidery thread (2-3 strands), sew the spots into place. Next using
a contrasting colored embroidery thread (All the strands -6-8), sew long stitches out from the
center of your mushroom’s underside felt piece to create the look of folds . Leave a small gap in
the stitches in the center (see the above photo and your pattern piece for reference).

We will be adding the stalk once we start to applique it onto our doll/cape/basket. The top point
of the stalk will rest inside the gap in the stitches we left (black arrow).
Face Construction

4) Take your face pattern and place your fabric face over it. Position your felt hair/bangs using your
template as a guide, pin and sew (hand or machine) around the face opening (1/8 inch from the
edge).

5) With your face over your pattern piece, using tailors pen/pencil or chalk, mark where your eyes,
mouth and nose will be and embroider them in. I like to use the stem stitch. Go to my blog for
more info on embroidering doll faces.
http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com/2011/04/embroidery-techniques-for-doll-and.html
6) You can also paint your face on at this time (which makes it safe for kiddies under 3). Fabric
paints and pens are easy to come by, please follow manufactures instructions as each is different.
Simply trace as before and paint in your face. For my full video tutorial on how to paint faces
please visit:
http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com/2010/11/how-to-paint-dolls-face-free-tutorial.html

7) Using your pattern as a guide pin the Mushroom Cap onto your Dolls hair parting. Using the
same colored thread as your Cap (here I used red) hand sew it into place, (1/8 inch or closer from
the edge), pull all your thread ends through to back and tie off.
8) Place your Mushroom Stalk on top of the cap so that the top point rests in the middle of the gap
of stitches. Pin and sew using a contrasting colored thread into place (1/8 inch or closer from the
edge), pull all your thread ends through to back and tie off.
Limb Construction

9) With the right side of the fabric facing inwards pin the arms together. Repeat with the legs.

10) Sew the arms together making sure to leave the tops open for stuffing, finishing off at both ends
with a backstitch or hand knot (keeps your seams from unraveling). Repeat with the legs.

11) Clip the curved edges making sure not to go through your stitches. This ensures when you turn
them the right way that the curves pop.

12) Lightly stuff your arms and legs to within ¾ - 1 inch of the opening. The gap allows the arms to
fall nicely to the dolly’s side and not look like a scarecrow :) I use an old paintbrush as a stuffing
tool. The bristles hold on to the stuffing and help you get into all the ends and corners.

13) Pin the ends of the arm and legs and sew them shut. If desired, snip off any excess edges.
Adding the Shirt Applique

14) Pin the shirt to the center of the Front Body and sew (1/8 inch from the edge) into place.

Body Construction

15) Pin the bottom of the back of the head to the top of the body with the right sides of fabric facing
each other and sew together.

16) Repeat with the face and the front body panel.
17) Serge (or use a tight zigzag stitch) around the edges where the 2” – 3” opening for the stuffing
will be. This helps stop fraying of your material when you turn your doll and stuff it. Make sure
you go beyond the white arrows, where the opening will be.

If your opening is going to be on the right side of the body like mine, zigzag on the right of the
front body panel and on the left of the back body panel.

Then when you make a sandwich with both of your body pieces (see section 24 below) your zigzag
sides will line up. If in doubt, zigzag around both entire body panels.
Hair Bunches Construction

18) Take one of your hair bunches, lay it flat on the table and fold the top right corner over
approximately 1/4 inch so that it lays flat against the felt edge and pin. Repeat with the left top
corner. It will overlap the right. Pin.

19) Repeat with the other hair Bunch making sure you fold down the opposite side first e.g. the left
side so as to make a mirror image of the hair bunch we created, see second photo above for
reference.

20) Baste/stitch along the edges of the folded corners of both hair Bunches using matching colored
thread (I used white here so that you would see it in the photos  ) . This will keep them firmly
together when we add them to the dolly sandwich.
21) Place the hair bundles so that the folds are facing down. Position them so that the edge lines up
with the curve of the head as close to the neck as possible (see red line & Arrow). Pin in place to
keep them from wiggling around. If you are worried about catching the bottom of your bunches
when sewing up your dolly sandwich I suggest folding them towards the center of the face &
adding another pin (see below photo).

22) Position your arms so that the edges are ¼ of an inch over the side of your body. Don’t allow the
arms to go above the collar neckline, otherwise they won’t look like they are coming out of your
mini body outfit. Pop a pin in them to keep them from wiggling around.
23) Position the legs just before the body begins to curve so that the edges are ¼ of an inch over the side
of your body and use 2 pins to keep them from shifting.

24) Place the back of the body right side facing inwards over the front creating a sandwich. Make
sure that both body pieces are right side facing inwards and match up at the neck seam.

25) Sew all the way around the outside of your doll sandwich making sure to leave a 2” – 3” opening
on one of the body sides after the arm and before the leg.

26) When sewing over bunches let the machine go at its own rate don’t push or force the material
through. Take your time you’re almost there 
27) If you wish you can double seam along the arms, bunches and legs 1/8” from the edge for added
strength from too much dolly love!

28) Clip the curved edges of the head, neck and bottom of the body making sure not to go through
your stitches (red lines). This ensures when you turn your dolly the right way that the curves pop.

29) Pop your hand through the hole in the side of your dolly and remove any loose pins you used to
secure the legs/arms/hair. Then pull the legs and arms gently out, slowly pulling your entire doll
the right way.
30) Tip: The head might be a bit fiddly as we have a small body and the 2 pieces of hair felt have a
tendency to ‘stick’ together. I find loosely rolling the head (diagram 1 -3) and pushing it into the
cavity (4) and up and out through the neck with the help of a paint brush to poke it through makes
the process much easier .

31) Now let’s get stuffing!! This is the fun part as you get to see your doll for the first time! Hi
dolly!!

32) I like to make sure I firmly stuff my doll (an old paint brush really helps), this allows them to sit
up.

33) When stuffing the head, especially the neck area you need to keep stuffing so as to get rid of the
wrinkles and creases. And to help dolly keep her head up! The amount of love your dolly is
going to get over time means more stuffing than you think!
Closing the Doll

34) Once stuffed, pin the opening in the body closed and sew up using the ladder stitch to close. You
can find a Tutorial on my blog:
http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com/2010/11/how-to-close-softies-and-dolls-ladder.html

Embellishments

You can add flowers or bows to her hair, buttons and bits of trim! Please remember, anything
that is detachable is not recommended on dolls for children under the age of 3 as they pose a
choking hazard.
Finishing the Hair and Dress

Hair Bows

35) Add your hair bows to the center of each hair bunch between the two folds of felt and as close to
the head as possible. Use a lot of small stitches to make sure it’s securely in place, dolly
wouldn’t want to lose one in the middle of a game with her new best friend!
Optional Quick and Easy Lace Trim Skirt/Dress.

36) Using lace trim makes a sweet little dress. Add a few layers on the very bottom of her dress to
give it a little ruffle. Or leave her plain, she looks just as cute! (Approximately 14.5 inches (37
cm) of trim for one layer.)

37) Simply take your lace and follow the bottom of the body around and pin it in place.
(Tip: stick the pins into your dolly as you would a pincushion…. much easier ….. just be
careful not to prick yourself when you come to sew it!)

38) Turn your dolly over and continue to pin around the bottom. Snip the lace ends so that they
overlap, and pop one of the sides over the other.

39) Securely stitch each layer of your lace trim skirt before adding another layer. I like to use lots of
small stitches and a couple of back stitches here and there to add strength. Use a color thread that
will not be noticeable.
40) I added 2 layers of lace on the bottom of my dolly dress here using the same method as above.
The red lace was slightly thinner in width than the white, and I placed it so that it overlapped the
white layer, hiding it’s stitches.

41) And there you have it, one quick, easy and oh so cute dress!
Boots & Faux Socks Construction

Fabric choice – Wool Felt

Supplies

Felt (scraps)
Paper patterns
Scissors/ Rotary cutter
Safe cutting surface.
Embroidery thread
Lace scraps

Please Remember, anything that is detachable such as these small shoes are not recommended on dolls
for children under the age of 3 as they pose a choking hazard.

1) Cut out your felt boot pattern, a 1/8 of an inch seam allowance has already been added. I use
freezer paper to cut out fiddly felt pieces, go to my blog for a full how to tutorial:
http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com/2011/02/how-to-use-freezer-paper-to-cut-out.html
2) Pin the boot Patches to both front felt boot pieces leaving a small 1/8 inch gap from the top and
sew (machine or by hand) 1/8 of an inch from the outer edge into place.

3) Now using a contrasting colored embroidery thread stitch 3 small X’s to mimic shoe laces all the
way up the center of each front boot patch (use pattern or photo as guide).

4) Pin the corresponding front of the boot onto the back boot, right sides facing inwards.
5) Sew an 1/8 inch seam around the outer edge making sure to back stitch at the ends. Clip the
curved edges of the boot making sure not to go through your stitches. This ensures when you
turn them the right way that the curves pop. Turn them the right way. I use a chop stick or the
end of a paint brush to help turn the slippers.

6) Pin a 5 inch (12.7 cm) strip of lace around the top of each boot to create faux socks and securely
sew into place.

7) They should slip on and off of your dollies legs easily.

8) TIP: If your boots are too tight turn your boot over and cut a 1 inch slit down the center of the
back of each one. This enables you to slip them on easily to your dolly’s legs.
Reversable Cape Construction
Supplies

Pre washed cotton fabric (Outer Red fabric - 1 fat quarter, Inner Pretty Patterned fabric - 1 fat quarter)
Paper pattern
Scissors/ Rotary cutter
Safe cutting surface
Ribbon - two 9 inch (23 cm) strips (I used ¼ - ½ width )

1) Tape the Hood pattern pieces together before cutting out your fabric. The Cape part of the
pattern is to be cut out of a Folded piece of fabric.
2) Use the above diagram as a guide, position your cape pattern pieces onto your fat quarter. Make
sure ALL pattern pieces fit before cutting.

1. Place the hood pattern piece right side up (yellow) on to your pre-washed and ironed fat
quarter so that to point is almost in the top corner. Now position it with the right side facing
down directly underneath it (green).
2. Fold the remaining fabric in half and place your bottom cape pattern piece (blue) before
cutting. Do NOT cut along the folded edge. When you unfold the fabric after you cut out
your pattern it will look like a semi-circle.
3. Repeat this entire process with your lining fabric.

3) A ¼ inch seam allowance has already been added. I like to use a rotary cutter especially on the
large curves of the cape.
4) Take your 2 main red Hood fabric pieces, and place them with the right sides facing inwards on
top of each other. Pin the back (A) and top of them together leaving the bottom neck (C) and the
front (B) open. Sew together (black dashed lines) finishing off at both ends.

5) Repeat with the lining fabric.

6) Snip off the top point of fabric (black arrow) on both the Main & Lining hoods making sure not
to go through your stitches. This ensures when you turn your cape the right way the tip of your
hood will pop out!
7) Using your lining fabric, turn your cape Hood the right way using the wooden end of a paint
brush or chop stick to pop your point out, and the bottom Cape lining piece right side of the fabric
facing up.

8) Pin the bottom edge of your Hood starting at one side and all the way around the neck so that it
lines up with the inside small semi-circle of the top of your bottom cape fabric piece (see above
and below photos).
9) Both top & bottom cape pieces should match up perfectly and there shouldn’t be any overlapping
material on either side. If they don’t match up, don’t panic, simply fold the excess into a tiny
pleat right in the center where your hood seam is.

10) Sew these two pieces together finishing off at each end.
11) Repeat with your main Red outer cape fabric.
12) Cut two 9 inch (23 cm) lengths of thin ribbon, seal the ends (light under parental supervision or
Fray check/stopper) and knot one end (black arrow) of each.

13) Place your Red outer cape with the wrong side on the table, and the right side of the fabric facing
you. Take a ribbon and position it so that it lines up with the neck seam of your cape. Flip it over
onto the right side of the cape fabric (blue arrow) so that the knotted end sticks out by ¼ over the
edge (black arrow) of the fabric and the rest of the ribbon is sitting towards the center of the cape.
Pin into place.
14) Repeat with the other ribbon on the opposite side.
15) With the wrong side of the Red outer cape fabric on the table (right side facing you) and the
right side of the Lining cape fabric on the table (wrong side facing you) - slip the Lining into the
Outer Cape. This means both the right sides of fabric will be facing each other. (See above and
below photos as a guide)

16) Pin the Lining & Outer fabrics together at the neck seams and the top hood seam first (black
arrows).
17) Pin all the way around the edge making sure your ribbons are nowhere near the edge of your
cape. You don’t want to accidently sew them into the seam. Leave a 2 – 3 inch opening in the
bottom (black arrows)

18) Sew a ¼ inch all the way around the outside of the cape making sure you leave a 2 – 3 inch
opening in the bottom (black arrows).
42) Snip off the capes bottom point corners of fabric (yellow arrows) making sure not to go through
your stitches. This ensures when you turn your cape the right way your corners will pop!

43) Clip the curved edges of the cape (black dashes) making sure not to go through your stitches
(blue lines). This ensures when you turn your cape the right way that the curves pop.

44) Remove the pins used to hold your ribbons out of the way and turn your cape the right way,
pulling it through the opening.
45) Use an old paintbrush or chop stick to push your corners out.
Iron the cape and pin the opening on the bottom closed and use the ladder stitch to sew it shut.
46) Pop your Cape on Little Red ….. ahhh doesn’t she look lovely!! If you have a plain fabric such
as Red make up another mushroom applique (see Step 2 in the Doll Construction section above)
to add some detail. As her cape is red I used yellow for my mushroom cap 

47) Position the mushroom applique on the opposite side of the cape to the one you have in her hair.
It’s easier to get the correct position when the cape is on your doll. Sew into place. Only sew
through the outer layer of fabric so that all your stitches are hidden inside your fabric layers.

Now you have a pretty revisable cape!

Basket & Cookies Construction

Fabric choice – Wool Felt

Supplies

Felt (2 8x11 sheet for basket, scraps for cookies & icing)
Cotton Fabric of choice (Scrap –8 x11inches ) DO NOT cut out your basket lining yet!!!
Heat n’ Bond No Sew (Iron on permanent adhesive double sided fusible webbing)
Paper patterns
Scissors/ Rotary cutter
Safe cutting surface
Stuffing
Pinking Shears
Embroidery thread
2 Buttons

1) Cut out your felt basket & cookie pattern pieces. I use freezer paper to cut out fiddly felt
pieces. Wait to cut out your fabric lining .. there’s a little trick!
Basket Construction

2) Using your pattern, cut out your Basket Side in Iron on permanent adhesive double sided
fusible webbing. I used Heat n’ Bond No Sew. Following the manufactures instructions,
iron it onto your fabric.

3) Peel off the paper backing.

4) Cut around the shiny surface. (If you find it easier you can cut around the paper backing and
then remove it from the fabric).
5) Using your Pinking Shears, or Decretive Scalloped edge Pinking Shears, cut along the length
of the top of your lining.

6) Cut a ¼ inch off of one end of your lining fabric strip (black dashed lines above, black arrow
below).
7) With the wrong/shiny side facing down, iron your lining fabric onto the felt Basket Side
making sure to position it so that your pinked edge runs along the top of the Basket Side and
this leaves a gap of uncovered felt along the bottom and off to one side (yellow arrow).

8) Using the same method as before, fuse two felt Basket Bottoms together using Iron on
permanent adhesive double sided fusible webbing.

9) Sew 1/8 inch from the edge a ring around the edge of the Basket Bottom (red stitches).

10) With the lining facing inwards start to pin the bottom felt edge of the Basket Side to the
Basket Bottom.
11) Place you pins through the sides into the bottom at an angle but like you would a pin cushion.

12) Overlap the Basket Side ends & pin.

13) Using the whip stitch, see my blog for a free tutorial
http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com/2011/08/how-to-whip-stitch-fab-for-felt.html

sew all the way around the Bottom of your basket attaching your Side using a contrasting
doubled over thread and finish off.

14) Sew up the overlapped edge using a straight stitch, we’ll be hiding this behind a mushroom
applique. If you want to omit the applique simply use the same colored thread as the basket,
in this case brown so that is not noticeable.
15) Using your pinking shears trim up both the sides of your handle.

16) To add some detail I used a contrasting thread and stitched an oblong inside the handle.
 17) Pin your Handle on the inside of your basket. Position one next to the overlap on the basket.
Line up both sides evenly.

18) Follow the instructions in step 2 to make your Mushroom Appliques. As before with your
hair Mushroom Applique pin the Cap on first followed by the Stalk and hand sew into place.

19) And you’re done … hmm now the question is … should we fill it with real sweeties/candies
or not hehehe

Cookies Construction
 20) Place both cookie rounds on top of each other and using your pinking shears trim around
them both at the same time. This is now your matching top and bottom to one cookie.
Repeat for second cookie (or as many as you think Little Red can eat hehehe).

21) Take the top of your cookie and pin your icing in the center of it.

22) Using a contrasting colored thread sew around the edge of it finish off on the back.

23) Sew a cute button as cherry in the center of it 

Please Remember, anything that is detachable such as buttons are not recommended on dolls for
children under the age of 3 as they pose a choking hazard.
24) Match up your Top cookie to your Bottom cookie and Pin together.

25) Sew around your cookie 1/8 inch from the edge leaving a 1 inch opening. Don’t finidh off,
simply leave your needle threaded and carefully start to stuff your cookie.

26) Using a paintbrush lightly stuff the cookie.

 27) Once you are happy with the amount of stuffing pin the opening closed and continue to sew
around the outside of your cookie 1/8 inch from the edge. Finish off and hide your end inside
the cookie.

28) Yum! All done!

If you intend to sell your dolls (see copyright info below) why not make a tag with your name and
logo on them and sew it directly to the back of your doll’s body. You can find my fabric label
tutorial on my Blog for how to make them from things you already have in your house!

http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com/2010/09/fabric-label-tutorial-made-from-things.html

For more helpful dolly making tutorials visit my blog:

http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com/p/free-sewing-tutorials.html
I’ll have more easy sew doll accessories and patterns coming soon!

Little Red loves sharing cookies with her best friend Wolfie <3

Instant Pattern Downloads

http://dollsanddaydreams.com
Blog
http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com
Etsy
http://DollsAndDaydreams.etsy.com
Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/dollsanddaydreams
*** UPDATE 2012: Copyright info and terms of use on *ALL* of my PDF Sewing Patterns.

I allow for all those that purchase my sewing patterns to sell items made from them, however, they are not
to be mass produced.

It is illegal under US copyright law, to sell or distribute (electronically e.g. via e-mail, hardcopy e.g.
printed) any Dolls And Daydreams Pattern.

Copyright Dolls And Daydreams 2010 - 2012 All Rights Reserved.

*** COTTAGE INDUSTRIES: Selling DollsAndDaydreams Dolls and Softies

- PROOF OF PURCHASE
Please keep a copy of your paypal receipt as proof of purchase.

- HOW MANY DOLLS CAN YOU SELL?

There is no limit to the number of dolls and/or softies you can make, list and sell as long as:
* The items are not mass produced.
* The items are made only by the individual who purchased the original DollsAndDaydreams Pattern.
* Each item is credited to being made from a DollsAndDaydreams Pattern.

- SELLING ONLINE
Etsy, Made It, Felt, Art Fire, Big Cartel, etc.
You can sell online but you must give DollsAndDaydreams credit for the pattern with a direct link to the
pattern you used (found in my Etsy or Instant Download store). Each doll/stuffed toy, and items made
from one of my patterns (or altered patterns) must have a direct link to the corresponding pattern used
whenever mentioned (be it for sale on etsy, Facebook, promoted/discussed on your blog or personal
website).

The link must be for the currently for sale item address NOT your etsy order transaction address e.g.
Dress Up Doll sewing Pattern designed by DollsAndDaydreams
http://www.etsy.com/listing/67761002/dress-up-doll-and-doll-clothes-pdf

Facebook - please place a link under your finished doll & softie photos : Pattern designed by
DollsAndDaydreams to my Facebook Fan Page. You can create a direct link to my Fan Page by 'liking' my
page and then using the @ symbol before you type 'DollsAndDaydreams' You'll see a drop down menu -
simply click on me and it's done!

- SELLING OFFLINE
Craft Fairs, Markets, Stalls, and Shows
Feel free to sell at craft fairs, church fates, fundraisers etc but please note on your sales tags that it is made
from a DollsAndDaydreams Pattern.
- CAN YOU MAKE ALTERATIONS TO THE PATTERNS?
Feel free to alter the patterns you use to make dolls/softies you sell, however, you must still link to the
original DollsAndDaydreams Pattern and/or note on your tags as described above. According
to DollsAndDaydreams Copyright protection:

-Acceptable Alterations include - Change the hair style or face, reducing the pattern/doll and softie
size, increasing the pattern/doll and softie size, mixing the pattern pieces from one purchased pattern
with another, e.g. limbs of one pattern, body of another etc

-UNACCEPTABLE Alterations include - trying to replicate my designs using one pattern, e.g. purchasing a
lamb pattern and trying to turn it into a Teddy or a Doll. Please respect my copyrighted designs and all
the hard work that goes into each one.

Please contact me with any questions related to alterations or my

policies: DollsAndDaydreams@gmail.com

- PERSONAL USE
Please make as many items for charity, gifts and for your little ones as you wish!

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Thanks And Happy Sewing!

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