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PULLED PORK S
Blue Ribbon
Blue-Ribbon
g
PIESRBBQ
IC RECIPES
CLASS
Banana
Pudding page 55
DISPLAY UNTIL JUNE 22, 2015
contents
MAY/JUNE ‘15
on the cover
Banana Pudding Pie
(recipe on page 55)
JIM BATHIE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY authentically southern, always delicious
PULLED PORK
Bl R b
ANNA THEOKTISTO
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY g
PIESRBBQ
IC RECIPES
CLASS
52
special fixins
SOUTHERN PLATE SUPPERS® 25
Top-it-your-way hot dogs with Christy Jordan
NEW WAYS WITH BBQ 29
Easy recipes starring your favorite barbecue
SWEET & SMOKY RIBS 37
Four ways to savor baby back ribs
SIDE BY SIDE 41
Traditional sides and tasty twists
BLUE RIBBON PIES 49
Win rst prize with these cool and creamy treats
J.Q. DICKINSON SALT-WORKS 57
A West Virginia family rediscovers its heritage
TASTE OF TRADITION 67
Five ways with pound cake
SOUTH’S BEST BANANA PUDDING 75
Grab a spoon and get ready to dig in
last bites
38
COOKBOOK SHELF 85
Lighten Up, Y’all by Virginia Willis
FAMILY FAVORITES 90
A reader's low-and-slow barbecue pork
RECIPE INDEX 95
WHERE TO FIND IT 95
DISHING WITH 97
Southern cook and blogger Judy Yeager
Enjoy!
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////// SOUTHERN SIDEBOARD
1. EAR
Believe it or not, pig ear sandwiches
have a cult following. Just ask the 3. LOIN 5. BELLY
regulars at the Big Apple Inn in This portion yields delectable cuts Braised or fried, pork belly is all
Jackson, Mississippi. (like the tenderloin and chops) but also the rage at restaurants these days.
includes baby back ribs. Cut from near Thinly sliced, it’s better known as
2. SHOULDER
the backbone, these ribs are short and your favorite breakfast meat, bacon.
meaty.
Surprise—Boston butt, the source
6. LEG
4. SPARE RIBS
of our beloved pulled pork, actually
comes from the pig’s shoulder. This Sliced, smoked, glazed, or cured,
humble cut was made popular in Longer and near the belly, these ribs the fat-marbled ham is one of our
colonial Boston, where it was packed traditionally have more fat and avor favorite pork pleasures.
into barrels (then referred to as butts). than baby back ribs.
Prep and
Central BBQ
Provisions Pork Rinds
If you can’t make it to Memphis,
emphis Tennessee,
Tennessee to sample Central
Father’s Day Edition Barbecue’s pork rinds, don’t worry—they’ll ship them to you!
Dusted with spice and infused with smoky avor, these treats
are irresistibly crisp. One taste, and you’ll be hooked like we
Treat Dad to these barbecue- are. Three bags for $17.97; cbqmemphis.com
inspired toys and treats.
Kindred
Photo courtesy Chad Macy Photography
quick escapes off Rest (known as T.R. by locals) is a charming small town just 20
minutes north of bustling Greenville. Stop for a spell and explore
these local favorites.
the beaten path
The Swamp Rabbit Trail Swamp
This 18.7-mile mixed-use greenway winds its way from Greenville
through the campus of Furman University and on up to Travelers Rabbit
Rest. The trail is relaxingly at and takes about an hour to travel by
bicycle, which you can rent for $5. greenville.bcycle.com Brewery
Brewing up a
The Café at Williams Hardware generous selection
of Belgian, British,
When the Swamp Rabbit Trail put T.R. on the map, sisters Joyce and and German-style
Nancy McCarrell knew all those cyclists and runners needed to be beers, this is a great
fed. Their nostalgic general store and café meets that need well with spot to hang out,
classic sandwiches and lunch specials during the week, and a hearty play some board
Southern breakfast on the weekends. Grab an ice-cold Cheerwine, games, and enjoy
take a seat on the screened porch, and watch the world go by. the casual T.R. spirit.
cafeatwilliamshardware.com Stop by Wednesday
Photos courtesy VisitGreenvilleSC
through Sunday to
Hotel Domestique sample fare from
local food trucks.
A few miles north of Travelers Rest, this luxurious boutique hotel rises theswamprabbit
from the rolling foothills like a French chateau. Elegantly appointed brewery.com
guestrooms impress with a lavish, modern air, while Restaurant 17
treats diners to gourmet local fare under a chandelier inspired by
shimmering Champagne bubbles. hoteldomestique.com
PORK: 1987
A Tasty
The
4900 B.C. 1539 advertising
Pigs were Spanish explorer slogan “Pork—
Timeline domesticated
in China
1500 B.C.
Europeans started
raising pigs
Hernando Desoto
brought 13 pigs
to Florida
The Other
White Meat”
was launched
for its thundering thoroughbreds and barrel-aged bourbon. But Louisville’s legacy is on the move. This
mid-Southern city is experiencing a restaurant renaissance, surging past cities twice its size. Chefs all over
Louisville (pronounced Lou-uh-vuhl by locals) are rewriting their city’s story, plate by plate. Here are a few
favorites you must sample on your next visit.
610 Magnolia
New York trained with Korean roots, Chef Edward Lee fell in
love with Louisville on a visit 13 years ago and never looked
back. At 610 Magnolia, he blurs the line between art and
food, creating impeccable dishes that are a riot of local flavor,
color, and texture. I devoured every dish set before me, but
none turned my head like his Pecan Pie. His deconstructed
interpretation was a surrealist twist on tradition: a pecan
financier (a springy
French cake) served with
a smear of sticky pecan
pie filling, cocoa nib ice
cream, and topped with
coconut whipped cream .
Find it:
610 Magnolia Ave.
610magnolia.com
Milkwood
If 610 Magnolia is Chef Edward Lee’s studio,
then Milkwood is his playground. Located
beneath the Actors Theatre downtown, this
dark and cozy hideaway boasts a playful menu
of global takes on hearty Southern fare. Don’t
miss the Pork Belly Bánh Mì (think Vietnamese
po-boy), Burgers on Pretzel Buns, and low-
and-slow dishes like Braised Oxtail.
Find it:
316 W. Main St.
milkwoodrestaurant.com
DO AS LOCALS DO:
Pull your car up to
the curb, and grab
a warm baguette
when they come out
of the oven at 9:15
each morning.
Find it:
2868 Frankfort Ave.
bluedogbakeryandcafe.com
////// SOUTHERN FLAVORS
Lilly’s Bistro
With several James Beard Award
nominations, Chef Kathy Cary has no need
to impress anyone, which is probably why
her food is so grounded and good. Signature
dishes like her Kentucky Bibb Salad never
leave the menu and receive seasonal
makeovers. And don’t miss her sought-after
ice cream sandwiches; I challenge you to find
a flavor you don’t like!
Find it:
1147 bardstown Rd.
lillyslapeche.com
where to stay
Brown Hotel
When the 1920s roared through
Louisville, they left behind the
Rye on Market
Everything about this cozy bistro
opulent Brown Hotel, a Georgian
simmers with authenticity, from
Revival marvel famous for its
the cookbook collection perched
elegant trappings, grand ballrooms,
over the kitchen to the heritage hog
and the iconic Hot Brown
farmer who moonlights as a server.
sandwich—roast turkey topped
Dinner began with an impeccably
with tomatoes, bacon, and a cheesy
crafted bourbon cocktail topped
Mornay sauce—which you can still
with a gorgeous charred lemon and
order, any time of day.
culminated with comforting Milk-
Find it: Braised Pork.
SEASONAL
SEAFOOD RECIPES
fr carnival to
holiday fêtes
FEATURING:
• 160 pages with beautiful photography
• Recipes from celebrated Louisiana chefs
and restaurants
• New Orleans classics – including po-boys
• Dozens of Cajun and Creole cooking tips
■ YES! Send me the Louisiana de Mer Cookbook for only $24.95, plus $4 S&H. LUCLSB15D
PRE-ORDER TODAY! ■ BEST DEAL! Send me two books for only $49.90 and I’ll get FREE shipping!* LUCLSB15E
Doc Crow’s
Anchoring the city’s Whiskey Row entertainment district,
this hotspot is a culinary Grand Central Station. We
came hungry and treated ourselves to the Smokehouse
Sampler (a bonanza of barbecue favorites) and a Bubba
Burger topped with pretty much everything on the menu.
And we couldn’t help but finish with the Wilber Sundae:
brown butter praline ice
cream with a bourbon-
caramel ribbon served
over cinnamon-infused
pork rinds and sprinkled
with candied bacon.
Find it:
127 W. Main St.
doccrows.com
Proof on Main
Just like the collections of contemporary art that
adorn their walls, the carefully crafted cocktails
at this chic Louisville hotspot are intriguing and
inspiring. The barkeepers at Proof on Main measure,
muddle, swirl, and shake together local liquors,
don’t miss
small-batch mixers, and rare tinctures to create
The Urban Bourbon Trail
Stop by the Visitor’s Center and pick up your Urban
cocktails that are meant to be savored. And while
Bourbon Passport, a handy booklet
they do beautiful things with bourbon, their nibbles
that highlights the city’s best bourbon-
like Smoked Catfish Dip, house-made charcuterie,
serving bars and restaurants and their
and Roasted Brussels Sprouts are not to be missed.
signature cocktails and dishes.
Find it:
Find it:
702 W. Main St.
proofonmain.com 301 S. Fourth St.
bourboncountry.com
19 TASTE OF THE SOUTH / may june 2015
TRAVEL THE ROADS OF A PPALACHIA FOR A TRUE TASTE OF W EST
V IRGINIA ’S DISTINCTIVE CUISINE . F ROM INSPIRED TWISTS WITH FRESH
SEASONAL INGREDIENTS AT C AFÉ C IMINO C OUNTRY I NN IN S UTTON TO
FARM - TO - TABLE COMFORTS AT B LUEGRASS K ITCHEN IN C HARLESTON ,
YOU ’ LL FIND A TASTE OF A PPALACHIA AROUND EVERY CORNER .
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided Slice morels in half lengthwise; toss in Àour
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided to coat. In a medium skillet, heat 3 tablespoons
1 pound fresh ramps, blanched and diced olive oil over medium-high heat. Place morels cut
(reserve 2 tablespoons blanching water) side down in skillet. (Do not overcrowd skillet.)
1 pound fresh morel mushrooms Cook, without stirring or shaking skillet, until
2 tablespoons dry white wine browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn morels, cook 1
2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream, divided minute more. Sprinkle with salt; remove from pan.
1 pound gnocchi, cooked
2 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled
Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
Garnish: spring redbud blossoms
ecently, I’ve learned the drawback of sun, wearing faded blue overalls. That was his standard
ny wonderful grandparents is that you uniform, and he’s dressed that way in every single
eventually end up losing them. I’ve been left with memory I have of him.
treasures untold for having known them, though, and At his house, the food was always simple and good.
some awfully good memories. Classic country breakfasts, hearty meat-and-three
This past year, my Papa Reed was reunited with his meals, and often hot dogs with chili, homemade fries,
mama, daddy, and nine siblings in heaven. I imagine he and all the fi xins as a special treat for lunch. There was
had quite a homecoming; goodness knows he lived quite never any pretense in a meal at Papa Reed’s house. Mama
a life. I loved visiting his farm when I was a girl. We spent Reed set her table with pride no matter the meal, and we
our days chasing goats, gathering eggs, and swinging sat down knowing it would be good.
from a rope swing that hung from an oak tree in the yard. This meal reminds me of their way of life: simple,
Papa Reed had a great sense of humor and a quick economical, and wonderful. These days, when it seems
smile. He lost a good bit of his hearing in World War II we have fewer get-togethers with family and friends, it’s
and had a hard time with children’s high voices, so his more important than ever to fire up the grill and invite
usual answer to anything we asked was, “Yeah, boy!” folks over. Keep the menu easy and inexpensive so you
We often got to do whatever we wanted thanks to his can invite twice as many folks.
ready agreement, but Papa Reed had a philosophy that Food is a lot like life. The simplest things can bring
kids needed to be kids, and exploring unhindered on a about the best memories. A soufflé may remind you of
farm was a great way to do just that. a restaurant where you once ate, but I’d rather have a
Whenever I think of Papa Reed, I see him standing hot dog and remember childhood days on Papa Reed’s
with a smile, eyes squinted from years of working in the farm in Toney, Alabama.
It’s amazing how many folks don’t realize you can make DADDY’S SPICY SLAW
French fries at home. This recipe uses my mother’s secret Yield: approximately 6 cups
of cooking the fries twice for the ultimate crunch.
Since he retired, my dad has become pretty handy in the
Vegetable oil, for frying kitchen, and Mama is always happy to have the help.
3 medium russet potatoes, cut lengthwise I often walk in to find them joyfully cooking together.
into 1⁄ 4 -inch thick sticks This dish is one of his creations that has become a
2 teaspoons chili powder family favorite.
2 teaspoons kosher salt
6 cups shredded green cabbage
1. Line 2 baking sheets with paper towels. Set aside. 1⁄ 2 cup chopped green onion
2. In a large Dutch oven, fill with oil to halfway full. 1⁄ 4 cup hot sauce
Heat oil over medium-high heat until a deep-fry 1⁄ 4 cup ketchup
thermometer reads 325°. Cook potato in batches until 1⁄ 4 cup mayonnaise
soft but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from oil 1⁄ 2 teaspoon salt
using a slotted spoon; let drain on one prepared pan. 1⁄ 4 teaspoon ground black pepper
3. Increase heat to medium-high; heat oil until a
deep-fry thermometer reads 360°. Cook potato in 1. In a large bowl, combine cabbage and green onion.
batches until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove Add hot sauce, ketchup, mayonnaise, salt, and pepper,
from oil using a slotted spoon; let drain on remaining tossing to coat. Cover, and refrigerate at least 30
prepared pan. Sprinkle with chili powder and salt. minutes or overnight.
BRISKET TACOS
BRISKET AND BISCUITS Yield: 6 servings
Yield: 6 servings
Easy skillet-charred corn and make-
A cross between cornbread and biscuits, ahead coleslaw help you get these
these buttery-crumbly sandwiches are tacos on the table in no time.
our new favorite way to enjoy barbecue.
2 teaspoons canola oil
12⁄ 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup fresh corn kernels
1⁄ 3 cup plain cornmeal 1⁄ 4
teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon baking powder 1 pound sliced smoked brisket
1⁄ 2 teaspoon salt 3 cups Carrot-Poblano Slaw
1⁄ 2 cup unsalted butter, cubed (recipe on page 42)
1 cup whole buttermilk 6 (8-inch) flour tortillas
1 pound sliced smoked brisket Crumbled queso fresco and lime
6 slices Cheddar cheese wedges, to serve
Dill pickle slices
1. In a large skillet, heat canola
1. Preheat oven to 425°. Line a baking oil over medium-high heat. Add
sheet with parchment paper. Set aside. corn and cumin; cook, stirring
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, occasionally, until lightly browned,
cornmeal, baking powder, and salt. Cut approximately 3 minutes. Remove
in butter with a fork or pastry blender from heat.
until mixture resembles coarse crumbs 2. Divide corn, brisket, and Carrot-
with some pea-sized pieces of butter Poblano Slaw evenly among tortillas.
remaining. Add buttermilk, stirring just Serve with queso fresco and lime
until moistened. wedges.
1 tablespoon canola oil pieces of butter remaining. Add 1⁄ 4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup chopped yellow onion 1⁄2 cup buttermilk, stirring until a soft Garnish: fresh dill
1⁄ 2 cup chopped green bell batter forms. Set aside.
pepper 3. For filling: In a 12-inch cast-iron 1. In a large bowl, combine greens,
1 cup chopped smoked sausage, skillet, heat canola oil over medium lettuce, chicken, cucumber, and
such as Conecuh heat. Add onion, bell pepper, and tomato. In a small bowl, whisk
6 cups lightly packed chopped sausage; cook, stirring occasionally, together buttermilk, mayonnaise,
fresh turnip greens until lightly browned, approximately dill, chives, vinegar, salt, and pepper.
7 minutes. Add greens; cook until Divide salad evenly among serving
slightly wilted, approximately plates. Drizzle with buttermilk
2 minutes. Stir in chicken, beans, mixture. Garnish with dill, if desired.
Wood chips
1⁄4 cup paprika
1 large egg
3⁄ 4 cup all-purpose flour
1.
4 FLAVORFUL WAYS
AYS TO GE
GET YOUR RIB ON
BEA
NS
EASY THREE-BEAN SALAD
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
sauce
2 tablespoons apple cider
vinegar
11⁄ 2 teaspoons kosher salt
1⁄ 4 teaspoon smoked paprika
Kitchen TIP
To blanch green beans, cook in
boiling water 2 to 3 minutes.
Transfer to a bowl of ice water,
and let cool. Drain.
OTA
P TO SALAD
SOUTHERN POTATO SALAD 1⁄ 4
teaspoon ground black pepper
Yield: 6 to 8 servings 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
Garnish: fresh dill
This creamy potluck classic is the
perfect side dish for vinegar-based 1. In a large Dutch oven, add potato,
barbecue. 3 tablespoons salt, and water to cover by
3 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat;
3 pounds red potatoes reduce heat to medium. Cook until
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain. Let cool
kosher salt, divided completely; cut into quarters.
3 large hard-cooked eggs, peeled 2. In a large bowl, gently stir together
and chopped potato, egg, and celery. In a small bowl,
1 cup thinly sliced celery whisk together mayonnaise, sour cream,
3⁄ 4 cup mayonnaise relish, onion, vinegar, remaining 1 teaspoon
1⁄ 4 cup sour cream salt, and pepper. Add mayonnaise mixture
2 tablespoons dill pickle relish and dill to potato mixture, stirring gently to
1 tablespoon grated yellow onion combine. Serve immediately, or cover, and
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar refrigerate up to 3 days. Garnish with dill
just before serving, if desired.
2 tablespoons water
11⁄ 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1⁄ 4 teaspoon ground black
pepper
1. In a large nonstick
skillet, cook sausage
and shallot over
medium heat,
stirring occasionally, until
lightly browned, approximately
6 minutes. Add greens, a few
handfuls at a time, stirring until
wilted after each addition. Stir
in raisins, 2 tablespoons water,
lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
Cover, and cook until greens are
tender, approximately 10 minutes.
Serve immediately.
GREE N
S
47 TASTE OF THE SOUTH / may june 2015
COLLARD GREENS
WITH TOMATOES
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
1 tablespoon rendered
bacon fat
2 cups chopped yellow onion
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 smoked ham hock
18 cups firmly packed fresh
chopped collard greens
(2 bunches)
11⁄ 2 cups water
1 cup diced tomato
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1⁄ 4 teaspoon ground black
pepper
2 tablespoons apple cider
vinegar
Crust:
11⁄ 4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon sugar
8 tablespoons cold unsalted
butter, cubed
4 tablespoons whole buttermilk,
chilled
Filling:
1⁄ 2 cup sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1⁄ 8 teaspoon kosher salt
Serving TIP
Yield: 1 (9-inch) pie
Crust:
11⁄ 2 cups crushed chocolate wafer
cookies
6 tablespoons unsalted butter,
melted
1⁄ 4 cup sugar
1⁄ 8 teaspoon kosher salt
Filling:
1 (8-ounce) package cream
cheese, softened
1 cup creamy peanut butter
1⁄ 4 cup sugar
1⁄ 4 cup honey
1⁄ 2 cup roasted salted peanuts,
chopped
1 cup heavy whipping cream
Garnish: chopped roasted salted
peanuts
BANANA PUDDING PIE 1⁄ 4 teaspoon kosher salt 4. For filling: Place sliced banana in
Yield: 1 (9-inch) pie 13⁄ 4 cups whole milk bottom of cooled crust. Set aside.
4 large egg yolks 5. In a medium saucepan, combine
We love banana pudding any way we 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, brown sugar, cornstarch, and salt;
can get it, and this crumb-crust pie is cubed whisk in milk and egg yolks until
no exception. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract combined. Cook over medium heat,
Garnish: whipped topping, vanilla stirring constantly, until thickened,
Crust: wafer cookies and crumbs approximately 10 minutes. Remove
2 cups crushed vanilla wafer cookies from heat. Stir in butter and vanilla.
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, 1. Preheat oven to 350°. 6. Spoon filling over banana in crust.
melted 2. For crust: In a medium bowl, stir Let cool 10 minutes. Place a piece
1⁄ 8 teaspoon kosher salt together crushed cookies, butter, and of plastic wrap directly on surface
salt. Using the bottom of a measuring of filling. Refrigerate until firm,
Filling: cup, press mixture into bottom and approximately 3 hours.
3 medium bananas, thinly sliced up sides of a 9-inch pie plate. 7. Spread with whipped topping;
1⁄2 cup firmly packed light brown 3. Bake until light golden brown, garnish with whole cookies around
sugar approximately 10 minutes. Transfer to edges and crumbs on top, if desired.
3 tablespoons cornstarch a wire rack, and let cool.
SALTMAKERS
PRESERVING HISTORY
One of the basic human tastes, salt is essential when it comes to food,
for its flavor as well as its preservative qualities. In a small town in West
Virginia, one family is picking up the trade that their ancestors laid down
and realizing that their delicious salt preserves much more than food.
BY GINNY HEARD
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE
S iblings Nancy Bruns and Lewis Payne are
the seventh generation of a salt-making
family in the river town of Malden,
located in the Kanawha River Valley, just outside
Charleston. Their family started making salt
in 1817 when their ancestor William Dickinson
invested in properties along the Kanawha River
where he had heard of people boiling brine from
nearby springs for the resulting salt. These
springs bubbled forth from the Iapetus Ocean,
an ancient, untouched sea trapped beneath the
Appalachian Mountains.
Dickinson drilled for the brine, using hollowed-
out tree trunks for piping, and became one of the
major salt producers in the town that grew to be
known as the “salt making capital of the East.”
Massive growth in the salt industry was fueled
by the meatpacking industry in Cincinnati.
J.Q. Dickinson and Company, named for William’s
first grandson, John Quincy, was soon one of 50
different manufacturers tapping the same source.
With more than 100 wells in the valley, the salt
harvesters produced three million bushels of salt
a year.
In the mid-1800s, however, the salt industry
started to falter—the meatpacking industry
moved from Cincinnati to Chicago, and soon after,
Union troops destroyed many of the salt-works in
the area during the Civil War. After the war ended,
Dickinson’s company was one of only a few that
rebuilt. The company continued making salt into the
1940s, when, with more widespread refrigeration, “I DON'T SEE THIS TURNING
a pendulum swing toward convenience foods, and INTO AN INDUSTRY LIKE
the discovery of salt mines in places like Utah and
IT WAS BEFORE...
Michigan, it was no longer profitable to boil the
brine. Other minerals were extracted from the brine
IT IS IMPORTANT TO US TO
into the 1980s, when the company closed its doors, KEEP IT SMALL BATCH.”
the wells were capped off, and they sat, untouched.
— NANCY BRUNS
59 TASTE OF THE SOUTH / may june 2015
That is, until Nancy, a chef who’s worked in kitchens all over alongside wooden salt cellars and cherry wood scoops. In
the country, pursued her interest in salt. Remembering her addition to their original coarse-textured finishing salt, they are
family’s background and watching her pantry being taken over now offering a popcorn salt with the same bright flavor but with
by salts from around the world, she started to think about the a finer grain that clings perfectly to each kernel. And with J.Q.
land her family still owned. Knowing the trend toward small- Dickinson, all the byproducts of salt are used. “We’re working
batch ingredients agreed with her, she realized her family needed toward having no waste from our brine,” Nancy says. They bottle
to make salt again. She called her brother, Lewis. “He has a real and sell the nigari, a mineral liquid that is traditionally used to
love of food,” Nancy says. “We grew up cooking a lot with our make tofu and can be used to make cheese. They’re even working
parents, and we’re a very food-oriented family.” Lewis jumped with a company in Alabama to use their iron oxide as a natural
right on board. dye.
The siblings drilled a new well on the family property in May If you look at those interested in Nancy and Lewis’s
of 2013. If one of them didn’t point it out to you, you’d hardly products, you’ll realize they have inherited the family talent for
notice the capped, 10-inch PVC pipe sticking out of the ground. salt-making. Sean Brock of Husk in Charleston, South Carolina,
It’s hard to imagine that 350 feet below the surface, a pump is and Nashville, Tennessee, Spike Gjerde of Woodberry Kitchen
pulling brine from the unseen depths. The brine is placed into a in Baltimore, Maryland, and Blackberry Farms in Walland,
large tank, where it is allowed to sit as iron oxidizes and settles Tennessee (just to name a few), are supporters of their salt and
out. After settling, the liquid is poured into shallow beds in the craftsmanship behind it. Nancy and Lewis, in turn, look to
evaporation sun houses, where with time the salt crystalizes from support local artisans. They’ve partnered with local companies,
the brine. Once the crystals get to the right size, the salt is hand- like Allegheny Treenware in Thornton, West Virginia, who makes
harvested with a wooden scoop, tied in bags, and left to allow any the birch wood rakes and scoops that they use to harvest the salt.
remaining liquid, referred to as nigari, to drip away. “Sourcing locally and regionally as much as possible is important
The salt is then hand packaged into jars, which are sold in to us and is a part of being a sustainable community,” Nancy
stores across the country as well as on the company’s website, explains.
ON E
1 cup unsalted butter, softened
3 cups sugar
6 large eggs 3. In a medium bowl, sift together
3 cups all-purpose flour flour and salt. With mixer on low
1⁄ 2 teaspoon salt speed, add flour mixture to butter
11⁄ 2 cups heavy whipping cream mixture in thirds, alternating with
2 teaspoons vanilla extract cream, beginning and ending with
flour mixture. Beat in vanilla until
1. Spray a 15-cup Bundt pan with combined.
nonstick baking spray with flour. 4. Spoon batter into prepared pan;
Set aside. (Do not preheat oven.) tap pan on counter twice to release
2. In a large bowl, beat butter and air bubbles. Place in a cold oven.
sugar at medium speed with an 5. Bake at 325° until a wooden pick
electric mixer until fluffy, 3 to 4 inserted near center comes out clean,
minutes, stopping occasionally approximately 1 hour and 10 minutes.
to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, Let cool in pan 10 minutes. Remove
one at a time, beating well after from pan, and let cool completely on
each addition. a wire rack.
MARBLED POUND CAKE 1. Preheat oven to 325°. Spray a mixture. Beat just until combined.
Yield: approximately 10 to 12 servings 15-cup Bundt pan with nonstick 4. In a medium bowl, place 3 cups
baking spray with flour. Set aside. batter. Stir in cocoa and remaining
Ribbons of rich chocolate make this 2. In a large bowl, beat butter, 3 tablespoons cream until combined.
Bundt cake even more irresistible. cream cheese, sugar, and vanilla at Stir in melted chocolate.
medium speed with an electric mixer 5. Alternating flavors, spoon batters
1 cup unsalted butter, softened until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping into pan. Using a knife, gently swirl
1 (8-ounce) package cream occasionally to scrape sides of bowl. batter. Tap pan on counter twice to
cheese, softened Add eggs, one at a time, beating well release air bubbles.
3 cups sugar after each addition. 6. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
1 tablespoon vanilla extract 3. In a medium bowl, sift together near center comes out clean,
6 large eggs flour, baking powder, and salt. approximately 1 hour and 10 minutes.
31⁄ 2 cups all-purpose flour With mixer on low speed, add flour Let cool in pan 10 minutes. Remove
1 teaspoon baking powder mixture to butter mixture in thirds, from pan, and let cool completely on
1⁄ 2 teaspoon salt alternating with 1 cup cream, a wire rack.
1 cup plus 3 tablespoons heavy beginning and ending with flour
whipping cream, divided
1⁄ 4 cup natural unsweetened cocoa
powder
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate,
melted
TWO
STRAWBERRY CREAM
CHEESE POUND CAKE
Yield: 2 (7x5-inch) loaves
E E
remaining batter into 1 prepared pan.
Place 1⁄4 cup Strawberry Sauce in
center of batter. Repeat layers once;
top with remaining one-third of batter. TH R
Using a wooden skewer, gently swirl STRAWBERRY SAUCE
batter. Repeat process in remaining Yield: approximately 1 cup 2. In a small bowl, whisk together
pan with remaining batter and 2 tablespoons water and cornstarch
Strawberry Sauce. Tap pans against 1 pint fresh strawberries until smooth. Set aside.
counter twice to release air bubbles. 2 tablespoons water 3. In a medium saucepan, stir
5. Bake until a wooden pick 1 tablespoon cornstarch together puréed strawberries and
inserted in center comes out clean, 3 tablespoons sugar sugar over medium-high heat. Whisk
approximately 1 hour and 10 minutes. in cornstarch mixture. Bring mixture
Let cool in pans 10 minutes. Remove 1. In the work bowl of a food to a boil; cook, stirring constantly,
from pans, and let cool completely processor, pulse strawberries until until thickened, approximately
on a wire rack. smooth, approximately 1 minute. 1 minute.
FIVE
73 TASTE OF THE SOUTH / may june 2015
CeNtRaL BbQ’s
Banana Pudding
BANANA PUDDING
reigns as the South’s favorite
comfort-filled dessert. This
accommodating custard can be
made beautifully and deliciously
upscale with additions of lofty
MERINGUE and buttery Arnold’s
homemade SHORTBREAD , Country Kitchen
but there are traditionalists who NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE
cry out for simplicity, maintaining A Nashville institution, Arnold’s Country Kitchen
has been serving up banana pudding for more
that ‘Nilla Wafers are the heart than 30 years. This family-owned meat-and-three
makes a warm vanilla sauce that’s poured over
of the dessert. Yes, we all have a sliced bananas while it’s still hot, imbuing as much
banana avor into the dish as possible. Layered
favorite version etched into our and cooked with ‘Nilla Wafers and topped with
meringue, the result is soft and smooth, with just
memories, but whether dressed up the right amount of texture. Arnold’s regulars are
helpful in showing newcomers the ropes, so don’t
or dressed down, banana pudding be scared off by the crowd—get in line and grab a
bowl of pudding—you’ll pick up the tempo!
b
TAKES US HOME. 605 8th Ave. S.
615.256.4455
This tiny restaurant tucked away in downtown Homewood is one of those classic diners that you
don’t see much anymore, heavy-laden with smiling regulars and the delicious food that brings
them back. And while this spot might be small on space, it is big on personality. Owner Wayne
Salem seems to know everyone who walks through the door and often already knows his or her
order, too. Once snug inside, you quickly become a part of the diner family. Among his many
delicious offerings, the banana pudding has gained a very loyal fan base—customers love the
whipped and uffy concoction with a passion. Mixed with lots of fresh bananas, topped with ‘Nilla
Wafers, and eaten with a plastic spoon, the banana pudding at Salem’s makes you realize that
sometimes the simplest things are the best things.
901.272.9377 931.994.6273
cbqmemphis.com bananapuddingfest.org
Back in the Day Bakery
SAVANNAH, GEORGIA
Capital
Bar & Grill
LITTLE ROCK, ARKANSAS
(multiple locations)
2232 Frankfort Ave.
502.409.6100
piekitchen.com
Comfort
RICHMOND, VIRGINIA
This laid-back restaurant lives up to its name with a casual atmosphere and delicious food. 200 W. Broad St.
While the Appalachian-inspired menu varies daily, Comfort’s banana pudding has become a 804.780.0004
menu mainstay, lest their customers revolt. The dish is made in the style of crème brûlée—a comfortrestaurant.com
custard with a ‘Nilla Wafer and butter crust, topped with caramelized banana slices. This
simple but delicious dessert is the perfect example of what Comfort does with all of their
dishes: highlight ingredients and let them shine.
M O R E P U D D I N ’
KING OF POPS
CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES ATLANTA, GEORGIA
hoffmanmediastore.com/pick6
Aug/Sept 2011 Oct/Nov 2011 Jul/Aug 2013 December 2013 Jan/Feb 2014 Mar/Apr 2014
ho
lid
ay
iss
THHANKSGIVING
TH ue
Menu Planner
Turkey & Gravy
F
Family-Style Sides
Decadent Desserts SOUTH S BEST
aUtHeNtIcAlLy sOuThErN aLwAyS DeLiCiOuS authentically southern, always delicious cally southern, always delicious
and more! CORNBREAD
page 75
FAM LY FAVORITES
k 65
HOL DAY REC PES 48 CA
CAST IRON RECIPES
The Annual
I Nue
Ca red velvet
pecan
Ie
2 ways with Classic southern flavors page 47
fruit cake
italian cream
german chocolate
SOUTHERN
SWEET
CLASSIC REINVENTED:
5 WAYS W Sweet Potato Casserole
Pecan Pie Cake
PECAN PIE
ROLLS
1 DOUGH, 5 WAYS
page 49
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pecans • pecan candies • pecan pies • roasted pecans • homemade cakes • gifts • souvenirs
• jellies and sauces • gift boxes and basket • cookbooks • pecans • pecan candies • pecan pies • roasted pecans • homemade
• jellies and sauces • gift boxes and basket • cookbooks • pecans • pecan candies • pecan pies • roasted pecans • cakes
Craveable
Southern
classics
you can feel
good about
RECIPES AND PHOTOS REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION
FROM LIGHTEN UP, Y’ALL BY VIRGINIA WILLIS
(TEN SPEED PRESS, 2015)
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF ANGIE MOSIER
W
hen Virginia Willis decided she wanted to lose mother. Family memories are just a part of why I love to cook—
weight, she knew she loved food too much to live when food is cooked in the home, it just tastes better.
her life on a diet of tasteless substitutes. Instead,
What made you want to write Lighten Up, Y’all?
she turned to her extensive food knowledge and rediscovered
I found myself in a place where I realized I wanted to lose
the healthy side of her beloved Southern cuisine. In Lighten
weight—I was not healthy, and I was not happy. So I started
Up, Y’all, Virginia shares her personal health journey through
making changes in my life. I exercised more, ate more
wonderfully rethought Southern recipes, offering hints and
healthfully, and lost weight. Then the book idea came about.
tricks she’s learned along the way to help you stay mindful of
I thought, “If I can do this, then others can as well,” and
what you eat. With recipes like Oven-Fried Okra, Smothered and
I wanted to share this with people who like my recipes.
Covered Chicken and Gravy, and Old-Fashioned Buttermilk Pie,
Virginia leaves no plate unfilled in her effort to make healthy, How is food central to the South’s personality?
delicious Southern food accessible to all. Food and Southern culture are very intertwined. So much of
Southern celebration and Southern sadness revolves around
Tell us how you got started in the kitchen.
food, from weddings and baby showers to funerals. This is a
I have always loved to cook—I was practically born in the kitchen.
part of what makes us known for our hospitality—what is more
My grandmother would sit me in one side of her double sink
kind or hospitable than to ask somebody if they would like
while she shelled peas in the other side. My earliest and fondest
something to eat?
memories are in the kitchen, where I cooked with her and my
What is different about the way we eat now compared You say healthy eating is less of a diet and more a way of life.
to how we ate in the past? Humans don’t naturally sign up for deprivation. Deprivation
People got off base in terms of cooking after World War II, can lead to depression and pain—it’s not good for your brain. If
when prefabricated and processed foods became popular you want healthful eating to be a part of your life, then you have
and spending time in the kitchen became less so. And while to use moderation. Using a judicious amount of ingredients is
convenience items and fast foods help us fit into our tight key, and these recipes will help you do so.
schedules, I think we got lost on the way to the drive-thru.
How have you lightened up your recipes?
You discuss a link between poverty and unhealthy diets. I started with my basic Southern recipes and then made them
The South has had economic issues, as well, which affect what healthier and more nutritionally dense. I took away some of
people eat. People became reliant on cheap processed foods the unnecessary fats and unhealthy aspects and amped up the
and fast foods. Hunger and obesity go hand and hand, but with nutrition so that every bite is really good for you. The best part
income and education, people tend to eat better. I wanted this is that if someone didn’t tell you, you may not even realize these
book to be very accessible in terms of recipes, ingredients, and recipes are lightened up versions.
information to show that you can have good, fresh food that is
What misconceptions do people have about Southern food?
affordable, tasty, and good for you.
When traveling around the country, I constantly hear people
Tell us about the nutritional information you included talk about the unhealthiness of Southern food. But Southern
for each recipe. food has so much to do with vegetables and historically is such
I wanted to show just how much we actually lightened these a fresh cuisine. The South is more than fried chicken, despite
recipes. I was specific about what information I chose to include what is sometimes represented in the media. And that’s the
because I wanted to give people the tools that they need to be heart of this book—Southern food can be healthy as well as
mindful of what they’re eating, or even to use in conjunction flavorful.
with different healthy eating plans.
Yield: 6 servings
SLOW-COOKER
COLA-BARBECUE PORK
Recipe courtesy Gerry Finley,
Slidell, Louisiana
Yield: 8 to 10 servings
MAIN DISHES
Asian Sticky Ribs 40
Baby Back Ribs 39
Basil-Peach Chicken Breasts 87
Brisket and Biscuits 32
Brisket Tacos 32
Classic Beef Brisket 31
Classic Dry Rub Ribs 39
Orange-Chipotle Ribs 40
Pulled Pork Enchilada Casserole 36
Pulled Pork Sandwiches with Fried Pickled
Okra 36
Slow-Cooker Cola-Barbecue Pork 90
Smoked Chicken 33
Smoked Chicken and Greens Casserole 34
Smoked Chicken Salad 34
Smoked Pork Shoulder 35
The Southern
Lady Cooks
W
hen Judy Yeager retired from her job
with the state of Kentucky, where she
worked for 27 years, she started her
website, The Southern Lady Cooks, so she could share
her favorite recipes. Judy loves spending time in the
kitchen cooking for family and friends, writing, and
photographing all of the recipes on her website and in
her first cookbook, Sweet Things. Pull up a chair, grab a
glass of sweet tea, and visit with Judy for a spell.
Most requested recipes?
Easy Christmas Divinity and Southern Jam Cake.
Three ingredients that are always in your pantry?
I love to bake, and I always have spices (cinnamon is my
favorite!), oats, and chocolate chips.
Favorite slow-cooker recipe?
Pulled pork barbecue.
Ultimate comfort food?
Chicken and dumplings.
Favorite midnight snack?
If it’s savory and fried, I simply can’t resist it—fried
chicken, mozzarella sticks, French fries, and onion rings
are all on the list.
Ideal summer meal?
Barbecued pork chops, fried green tomatoes and
okra, Southern baked beans, potato salad, hot-water
cornbread, sweet iced tea, and deep-dish blackberry
cobbler with ice cream.
Favorite way to eat a tomato?
Right out of the garden while warm from the sun. I add
just a little salt.
Recipes that best represent your home state of
Kentucky?
Kentucky Bourbon Balls, Kentucky’s Woodford
Pudding, Kentucky Bread Pudding with Bourbon
Sauce, Kentucky Chocolate Chip Bourbon Pie (Derby
Pie), and Kentucky Butter Cake with Rum Sauce.
Favorite birthday cake?
Spice cake. My birthday is in the latter part of
September, when fall is just beginning to be in the
Kentucky air. I love anything with pumpkin and spice
that time of the year, and the Bourbon and Pumpkin
Spice Cake on my website is always a favorite.