WIN!

A CLASSIC PASHLEY BIKE WORTH £1,000

ON SALE 1-31 AUGUST 2018 £4.50

Properly
MARY BERRY satisfying
reveals the main meal
art of the salads
easy pudding
ICE CREAM
HAS NEVER TASTED
EXCLUSIVE
Rick Stein’s BETTER!
sizzling guide
to shellfish

TH E CO LL EC
TO RÕS ED ITI ON Blackcurrant

MEDITERRAN EAN
16
ripple ice cream
sandwiches
KITCHEN
extra pages
of NEW
recipes
FREE! BRING HOME A TASTE OF THE SUN
Halloumi fries • Patatas bravas • Finest sunshine meze
Chicken & artichoke pie • Prawn saganaki… And more

• THE POSH PICNIC • TOP VEGAN BURGER • ZOE ADJONYOH • THE JOY OF CONVENIENCE FOOD
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 Welcome to

AUGUST Summer… What does it mean to you? Are you all

about escaping abroad, experiencing new tastes and bringing Follow Karen
on Twitter
flavours back home? Or are you a staycation-ophile, relishing @deliciouseditor
the scores of good things here in the UK? Wherever and and on Instagram
@editorkarenb
whatever your happy place, most of us probably agree the feel
of sun on your back and soft sand between toes is hard to beat.
This month we’ve tried to satisfy as many food yearnings DON’T MISS OUT!
and capture as many vibey relaxation moments as we can, Turn to p58 for
our special offer.
starting with a guide to shellfish from fishmeister Rick Stein (p35). I always thought Subscribe to
you weren’t supposed to eat mussels in August (no ‘r’ in the month), but Rick tells me delicious.
magazine and get
you can, I believe him and I’m going to, inspired by his fine recipes. By contrast, Jack Stein’s new
uber-talent Zoe Adjonyoh is our new writer in residence and has created exciting book FREE.
food moments inspired by a trip to Kenya, where she met two women who gave her
the full Kenyan flavour immersion (p48). I’m ever eager to try new dishes, and
Zoe’s recipes deliver in full measure, along with stories and down-to-earth advice
on ingredients that, I hope, will entice you to experiment beyond your repertoire.
I have to mention Debora Robertson’s defence of convenience food, too (p16). I’m
in her camp: I hold no truck with food snobbishness. In fact I’d go so far as to say it’s
the enemy of getting more people to cook, which is surely the subtle mission of anyone
who cares about a) food, b) health and c) the planet we inhabit. Debora has a knack of
delivering a powerful message with humour. I, for one, am going to be adding a few
new timesavers to my freezer storecupboard, top of the list being frozen chopped
chillies – not least because I wear contact lenses. If you wear them, you’ll share my
pain-memories… Need I say more? Wishing you a fully delicious.-infused summer!

KAREN BARNES, EDITOR

August
FIVE GOOD THINGS TO DO
BY EDITOR KAREN BARNES
1 It’s all about the vista
What’s the best picnic spot in the
UK? Drinks company Fentimans recently
did a survey to find out, and top of the
rankings came Durdle Door in Dorset,
followed by Buttermere in the Lake
District and Tenby in Pembrokeshire
(right). Mine is Gillan Beach in Cornwall,
where my uncle lives – one of the last
secluded Cornish spots (it’s hard to find).
Where’s yours? Tell us at readers@
delicious magazine.co.uk and we’ll
publish the best next year. Meanwhile,
if you need inspiration for the picnic
hamper, turn to p60 for treats in store.
Five quick things to make with… Peaches
The summery cocktail
Put 2 ripe peaches, stoned and diced,
2 tsp lemon juice and ½ tsp caster
sugar in a food processor or blender
and whizz until smooth. Pass the purée
through a sieve (discard the solids),
then divide among 6 champagne
glasses. Top up with chilled prosecco
and garnish with fresh basil leaves.
2 Speedy pud
Put 600ml water, 350g caster sugar,
1 vanilla pod and the pared zest and
juice of 1 lemon in a pan. Slowly bring
to the boil, stirring, then add 8 halved
and stoned yellow peaches and simmer
for 10-15 minutes until soft. Skin
them, if you like, then serve with ice
cream and crumbled amaretti biscuits.
3 Easy summer tart
Unroll a 375g sheet of ready-rolled
puff pastry, then score with a 1cm
border. Bake for 20 minutes at 220°C/
200°C fan/gas 7 until puffed and
2 Bid for life
For the first time, Auction Against
Hunger is being hosted in Manchester at
Upper Campfield Market Hall in Barton
Street and it’s guaranteed to be a lot
of fun. The legendary event, usually
held in the capital, takes place on
6 September and is an entertaining
mix of music festival, food festival
and money-raising auction in aid of the
superb charity Action Against Hunger,
which works to reduce world hunger.
Visit actionagainsthunger.org.uk for
details; contact s.lloyd@actionagainst
hunger.org.uk for tickets (price £50).
golden. Leave to cool, then push down
the middle. Mix 250g mascarpone with
the grated zest and juice of 1 lime and
2 tbsp icing sugar. Spread the mixture
inside the border, top with sliced ripe
peaches, drizzle with honey and
sprinkle with fresh mint.
4
The barbecue side
Halve and stone 4 peaches, then
barbecue or griddle, cut-side down,
until lightly charred. Cut into wedges,
then toss with 4 torn prosciutto slices,
25g pecans, 90g rocket leaves, 2 tbsp
balsamic vinegar and a glug of olive oil.
5 Mini melba pavlovas
Slice 3 peaches, then mix with 100g
fresh raspberries, 2 tbsp honey and
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves. Leave
to macerate for 20 minutes. Whip
200ml double cream with 1 tbsp icing
sugar to soft peaks, then divide among
8 mini meringue nests. Spoon over the
fruit mixture and serve straightaway.
 delicious moments.

3 Swim for your supper

There’s a revival of lidos going on – and two of them have
excellent food offerings attached, both overseen by up-and-coming
chef Freddy Bird. If you book a ‘Swim and Eat’ package, you can work
up an appetite in the pool, then reward yourself with a slap-up dinner
while watching others doing their lengths. Thames Lido (thameslido.
com) is in Reading, or there’s Bristol lido (this picture; lidobristol.com)
– both stylish restorations of Edwardian and Victorian architecture.

4 Table of the month

Padella restaurant on the edge of London’s Borough Market is 5 Wild food
Take a trip into your nearest bit of untamed
known for two things: its great freshly made pasta and its queues. Now countryside and seek out the first blackberries in
it has a rival. Lina Stores in Soho, which started trading 75 years ago, the hedgerows –
has opened a café in Greek Street and it’s very good. Sit at the bar and earlier than ever this
have a fine negroni, a plate of wafer-thin parma ham, pappardelle with year because of the
rabbit ragù or ricotta herb gnudi with brown butter. To finish: the zingiest June-July heatwave.
lemon sorbet with limoncello poured over. It’s not a place to linger, but Back home, throw
it’s a place to love. Go before the queues get too long. linastores.co.uk those (washed)
berries in a dish
with some British
RECIPES & FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH.

plums, squeeze over

the juice of a lime and a
glug of cassis (or any sweet
liqueur), then cover with foil
STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE. TENBY PHOTOGRAPH: TIM HILL

and bake in a medium

oven until the fruit is
tender. Serve hot
with cream for
dessert or cold
with yogurt for
breakfast.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 5
 116

82 30 42

AUGUS T 2018

CONTENTS
ON THE COVER

YOUR RECIPE INSPIR ATION
15 WEB EXCLUSIVE Raspberry meringue pie
20 ALWAYS A WINNER: ICE CREAM Three
next-level scoops for the summer
24 ROAST OF THE MONTH A smoky Spanish-
style roast chook is truly delicioso
26 RECIPE HALL OF FAME Debbie Major goes
NO-CHURN BLACKCURRANT RIPPLE retro with melt-in-the-mouth quiche
ICE CREAM SANDWICHES, p23
Recipe & food styling Jen Bedloe 35 RICK STEIN’S GUIDE TO SUMMER SHELLFISH
Photograph Toby Scott
Three cracking seafood recipes from
Styling Davina Perkins
the godfather of fish cookery
42 STAR OF THE SEASON: SWEETCORN Go for
gold with these flavour-packed cobs
45 GILL MELLER The River Cottage chef
takes a walk on the wild (rabbit) side
EXTRA! 48 THE RESIDENCY: ZOE ADJONYOH Bursting
After p130 you’ll with colour, these Kenyan-inspired
find 16 pages of dishes are perfect for a hungry crowd
Mediterranean
56 TASTES LIKE HOME Canadian butter tarts
recipes to inspire
your cooking 60 WHEN THE SUN IS BLAZING Pack a superior
picnic with this made-to-go menu
68 MARY BERRY The queen of baking shares
three effortless yet impressive bakes
72 8 POSH SARNIES Clever filling ideas
BE A BE T TER COOK
100 IN THE delicious. KITCHEN Tips, tricks
and know-how from our experts
104 WEEKEND PROJECT Slow-cooked brisket
107 CHEF’S STEP BY STEP Hand-rolled trofie
pasta with watercress pesto
RE AD ALL ABOUT IT
8 INBOX What’s on your mind this month?
10 FOR STARTERS Events, trends and news
12 WISH LIST Our pick of what to buy now
14 A SLICE OF MY LIFE Jack Stein on travel
and his love of global cuisines
16 FOOD FOR THOUGHT Do you shun
convenience food?
19 WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT... Kay Plunkett-
Hogge is in a food-craving pickle
 T HE
delicious.
PROMISE
RECIPES THAT WORK Every

48
recipe is rigorously tested
by our food team, using
state-of-the-art Fisher &
Paykel ovens and hobs,
so you can be confident
they work every time.
INGREDIENTS We aim to use
easy-to-find seasonal
ingredients. We’ll tell you
where to find any unusual
ingredients and/or what to
substitute them with.
We use higher-welfare
meat for testing, supplied
by The Ginger Pig
(thegingerpig.co.uk).

35 60 ✪ This symbol next to an

ingredient means there
are more ideas for using
it on our Loose Ends page.
HONEST COOKING TIMES
Unlike many magazines,
our timings include
prep such as chopping.
30 FOOD HERO Foraging for an ingredient Hands-on time is when
you’re chopping, stirring
you’ve probably never tried… or frying. Oven/simmering
22 PAGES
67 READY FOR A TOP DAY OUT? Come and say with no
time is when you can
leave the dish in the oven
hello to delicious. at a food festival or on the hob.
fads or false
73 DRINKS Top drops and cooling red wines health claims, Indicates a vegetarian
recipe. Indicates a vegan
110 TEST REPORT On trial: a Greek cooking just nutritious recipe. Indicates a
gluten-free recipe.
class, new books and a portable barbie recipes and
Whenever you see
116 HUNGRY TRAVELLER Favourite UK seaside informed KNOW- this symbol, you’ll
HOW
stays, from Scotland to the Isle of Wight know-how find useful extra
information about the
122 BITE-SIZE BREAK Discover the top food and 76 MIDWEEK COOKING Satisfying main-meal recipe.
drink scene in Belgium’s medieval Ghent This symbol means
salads with some serious oomph MAKE you’ll find an option
AHEAD
130 RANT Airports: the dreaded holiday hurdle
80 BUDGET RECIPE Mexican spiced rice to make part or all
of the recipe in advance.
81 THE 5:2 RECIPE Simple grilled mackerel Indicates you can freeze
OTHER GOOD THINGS 82 THE BATCH-COOK RECIPE Roasted summer veg
all or most of the recipe.
Unless stated, freeze the
58 SUBSCRIPTION OFFER Save up to 38% and 84 SOUP OF THE MONTH Make-ahead gazpacho
finished dish for up to
3 months. Defrost and
get a copy of Jack Stein’s World on a Plate heat until piping hot.
85 FRIDAY NIGHT MEAL Hot dogs with sauerkraut
98 LOOSE ENDS Use up this month’s leftovers NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION
86 TAKE A PACK OF CHERRY TOMATOES... Four speedy Recipes are analysed for
74 JUST FOR YOU Win a classic Pashley bike nutritional content by an
recipes to boost your weeknight repertoire expert nutritionist. They’re
74 COOK THE COVER Win a set of Anolon pans calculated with precision
88 THE SANE VIEW Beauty foods: fact or fiction? but may vary, depending
115 READER EVENT Join Gill Meller for a day of
foraging and feasting at River Cottage HQ
91 HEALTHY MAKEOVER Meat-free miso burgers on the ingredients used.
Calculations include only

124 COMING NEXT MONTH 92 V IS FOR VEGETARIAN Vibrant veg recipes listed ingredients.
PRICES are correct at
from Swedish blogger Nina Olsson
128 FOOD LOVER’S CROSSWORD time of going to press.

129 RECIPE INDEX

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 7

Tell us what you think of
delicious. (good and bad)
or send your tips, pictures
and queries to:
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magazine.co.uk.
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See what other
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com/deliciousmag
THIS MONTH’S
STAR PRIZE*
This month’s prize
is a six-bottle case
of Pommery
Brut Royal NV
from Champagne
Pommery. Madame
Pommery, who
launched the first
commercial brut
champagne in
1874, described it
as fresh, elegant
and vivacious.
Today, Chef du
Cave Clément
Pierlot ensures that the
champagnes stay true to her
philosophy. Available from
Ocado. champagnepommery.
com/en, RRP £41.99 for 75cl
WIN! £50
SAINSBURY’S
VOUCHERS
Great recipes need great
ingredients. For your chance
to win £50 Sainsbury’s
vouchers, solve the cryptic
clue on the magazine spine,
then email your answer, with
your name, full UK address
and phone number, to info@
deliciousmagazine.co.uk.
Competition entry closes
31 August 2018. Vouchers
can be used in stores only
(see p129 for Ts&Cs).
June’s cryptic clue solution:
peaches and cream
8 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
INBOX...
FROM OUR
subject: What being healthy impressionable and self-conscious public
STAR really means to aspire to and fail to meet. I have seen
EMAIL from: Rebecca Mee my intelligent, beautiful, funny daughter
I’ve never felt compelled reduced to a shell of herself, living in fear
to respond to an article in a magazine of food and of the judgements of others
until I read Anthony Warner’s criticism based on her appearance. It’s impossible
of dieting [June, p130]. to summarise the devastating effects
As the parent of a 16-year-old daughter of anorexia, both on the sufferer
who has struggled with anorexia for the and on their family.
past two years, has only As a primary school
recently been I
teacher, I’m careful
O H JO E! E W
discharged from KN
N EVER SU CH in my approach to
HAD
YO U CK
a five-month A SIX PA healthy eating education,
admission to an HE ’S SO FIT! ensuring the message
T HAS
eating disorder unit T HE DIE F F... I impart is that the
PA ID O
and is still struggling key to healthy eating
with her recovery, is enjoying everything
reading Anthony’s in balanced quantities.
article had a huge Eating fruit and
emotional impact. vegetables in excess
Due to the UK’s and to the exclusion
rising obesity problem, of other food groups,
my daughter has been including sugar and fat, and denying
bombarded with ‘healthy eating’ government ourselves the enjoyment of the foods
initiatives since she started school at the age we like is damaging to our physical and
of four and gradually developed an irrational mental health.
fear of ‘bad’ foods, which is constantly I was over the moon to read Anthony’s
reinforced with ‘you are what you eat’ take on what being healthy means and felt it
type programmes. In addressing obesity, was the first time I had ever read something
the experts have inadvertently created so true to my own view of life, food and
mental and physical health issues of the happiness, especially in a food magazine.
opposite extreme. I can’t even find the I refuse to buy any recipe magazines or
words to express my disgust at celebrity books in January when the industry is at its
and media-endorsed faddy diets along dieting worst. I can only hope that one day
*A FULL MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER MUST BE SUPPLIED.
with the ideal body image that they portray my daughter will share this view and see
through digitally altered images, setting an herself as the beautiful person she is in
unrealistic and unnatural standard for the every way, inside and out.
SUBSCRIBERS ABROAD: What YOU’VE been making
ENTRANTS MUST BE OVER 18. FOR FULL TS&CS, TURN TO P129
WE HEAR YOU! this month...
Although the majority of our overseas
subscribers receive their issues on time,
we’ve had a few emails from people
who’ve had problems with late delivery.
What we’ve done: to combat theft, from
the September issue all our subscriber
copies (UK and abroad) will be wrapped
in opaque recyclable packaging and our
suppliers guarantee they leave the UK
on time. We are however at the mercy of
overseas postal systems. Apologies to Tomato, thyme & Italian cherry & Gooseberry
those who’ve had problems, but we ricotta tart almond tart pavlova
promise your delicious. is worth the wait. @rakeofcakes Lillie Prior Joanne P
 have your say.

subject: Cow-funding DEBORA ROBERTSON’S ARGUMENTS AGAINST AL FRESCO EATING

from : Simon Rostron
The notion of
‘crowdfunding a
cow’ is attractive (For
Starters, July issue, p10)
but it’s all bullocks. The fact the
entire animal is bought does not, to
my mind, ‘minimise’ food wastage.
Once the punter has received his or
her box, there’s no way of
discovering how much content is
wasted. And what happens to the
horns, hooves and skin?
delicious. replies: We quizzed the Buy
a Cow team before we printed this story.
The hide and bones are repurposed.
Customers can request offal in their box,
and soon consumers can purchase this
direct from buyacow.uk. Unsold offal is
made into pâté and other products.
Selling the cow before it’s butchered
aims to minimise waste at the producer
and retailer’s end, but you make a good
point that we can’t know how much is
wasted by the customers.
[JULY, P130] DIVIDED OPINION AMONG delicious. READERS:
Picnic enthusiast about with our trusty
from : Lynsey Telford picnic blanket and hamper
I could not have each weekend, exploring
disagreed more with our local area and eating
Debora. One of my our body weight in
fondest childhood cocktail sausages. We’ve
memories is of even been known to picnic
picnicking with in the living room or car
my family on our when the weather hasn’t
holidays. Finding the been in our favour. I can’t
right spot to set up, think of anything greater
the smell of the than spending time
plastic plates and picnicking with my family.
cups, the mini pork
pies and fondant …And the picnic hater
fancies. While there from :
Kenneth Hannah
were no Thermos Loved the article. My wife
flasks of ice and sorbet involved, to my says I should leave her and marry Debora as
10-year-old self they were banquets. My we have the same views on eating outside
passion for outdoor eating is now being and the security of the dining room. As for
passed on to my three-year-old daughter sunroofs: no point in the winter, and in
and 10-month-old son. The glorious summer they create a greenhouse effect,
weather has meant we’ve been out and even when they’re open.

F I N D T H E U K ’ S BE ST C O OK E RY S C HO OL S

INDEPENDENT COOKERY
SCHOOLS ASSOCIATION
Looking for a cookery course? Visit the ICSA website
to find fully accredited cookery schools nationwide, so
you can be confident you’re getting a quality course that’s
value for money. We check every detail, from insurance
and equipment to teaching and course content, to give
you the peace of mind that you’re getting the best.

Independentcookeryschools.co.uk
ICSA is the only independent, non-profit regulatory body for cookery schools
in the UK – to find out more, visit independentcookeryschools.co.uk
 FOR STARTERS
N E WS, N I B B L E S O F K N OW L E D G E A N D G O O D T H I N G S TO D O R I G H T N OW

IN THIS
MONTH...
HAVE YOU HEARD OF POLLADA? 1858 Chef Alexis
It’s Peruvian for ‘chicken party’ and Soyer died on 5 August
is a popular way of raising funds in times but lives on in history for
of need in Peru. Friends, family and improving food for British
soldiers in Crimea, running soup
neighbours buy tickets to the pollada,
kitchens during the Irish famine and
hosted by someone in the community cooking for 2,000 people to mark
who needs money, and specially Queen Victoria’s coronation.
marinated chicken is served at a party in exchange –
which might feature beer and music, too. This summer,
1928 Artist Andy
rainforest charity Cool Earth is calling on you to throw Warhol, who found
your own pollada and ask your friends to pledge a few fame with prints of
pounds to help fund its work minimising deforestation in Campbell’s soup
cans, was born on
Peru, the Democratic Republic of Congo and Papua New 6 August. His
Guinea. For every £60 donation, the charity estimates an abstract 1959
acre of rainforest is saved. l Visit coolearth.org/pollada to cookbook Wild
register and order your free chicken party pack, including Raspberries includes a recipe for
omelette Greta Garbo.
bunting, spice mix, invitations and Gift Aid forms

1941 Cookery
tycoon Martha Stewart
was born on 3 August.
What’s your favourite sandwich filling? “Baking cookies
is equal to Queen
Victoria running an
If you want a 1 Cheese empire,” she once
quick last-minute said. “There’s no difference in
2 Ham & cheese how seriously you take the job.”
al fresco bite, the
sandwich is your 3 Ham salad
best friend – 4 Sausage 2003 After a 14-year break,
after your picnic Iceland resumed whaling on 17
blanket, of course.
5 Cheese & onion August – for ‘scientific purposes’
(to monitor their feeding habits).
Here are the 6 Egg mayonnaise Today, minke whale can be eaten
nation’s top 10 7 Tuna mayo in restaurants there.
favourite sarnie
fillings (there’s 8 Chicken salad
a lot of cheese 9 Chicken mayo
going on…) 10 Cheese & pickle
WHO KNEW…?
During World War II, academics
LISTEN TO THE delicious. PODCASTÉ proposed harvesting plankton
This month, Gilly meets Moroccan blogger turned food writer Nargisse from Scottish sea lochs in case
Benkabbou, and the Syrian refugees who re-create the flavours of home for food supplies were cut off,
their social enterprise, Syrian Kitchen. We’re off to the Italian biodynamic claiming the waters were
vineyard that only employs women to make its wine, and we enjoy a well seasoned ‘soup-like’ in richness and that
Slice of My Life with Gennaro Contaldo. Every week, the delicious. podcast brings you the some plankton were ‘tasty’.
best stories from the world of food – search for it on iTunes or wherever you find your podcasts.
 in the know.

DATES FOR
TR ENDWAT CH YOUR DIARY
Rooftop dining AUG & SEPT
10-12 AUG
London Chilli Fiesta, West Sussex
The Boundary
restaurateur Project rooftop The UK’s biggest chilli
and man-about- festival promises more
town James than 140 stalls of fiery food,
Ramsden hits the heights eating can be had at the Marksman Public drinks and gifts, plus cider
Everyone knows that food enjoyed outside House (marksmanpublic house.com) in and cocktail bars, a vintage
tastes at least 15 per cent more delicious. Hoxton. Best go all-in on a feasting menu funfair, Latin music and
Throw a decent view into the mix and, well, over a long lunch. From there you might jump dance classes, chef demos
there aren’t many better places to be. No on an Overground train to Peckham and enjoy and fireworks. Adult tickets
wonder rooftops are increasingly popular a sundowner or two at the beguilingly industrial from £14.40; westdean.org.uk
places to eat. Here are some goodies. Frank’s Café (boldtendencies.com/franks-
The Culpeper (theculpeper.com) in cafe). Negronis come correct, the food is solid 23-27 AUG
Spitalfields pays homage to the botanist after and the view over London is spectacular. Makemore Festival,
whom the pub is named, Nicholas Culpeper, At the other end of the fancy spectrum, London E3
with its rooftop herb garden and menu of Coq d’Argent (coqdargent.co.uk) is a City This new festival in Victoria
forward-thinking, well-sourced pub food. Not institution that’s nothing if not blingy. And then Park is all about creativity.
far away is The Boundary Project in Shoreditch there’s Bird of Smithfield (birdofsmithfield. The demo lineup includes
(boundary.london). You can eat well enough on com) with its views over the iconic market Felicity Cloake on bread-
its sprawling roof terrace, though it’s arguably and well-executed modern European menu. making and Rachel Roddy
better as a post-prandial pit-stop for excellent There’s basically no need to go indoors this on Italian food, plus
digestifs. There’s even a cigar list. Very good summer. Weather depending, of course. smoking, pickling and
beekeeping workshops.
One-day tickets from £28;
DID YOU KNOW...? makemore.art
Juniper, one of the UK’s three native conifers, faces extinction across much
of the country within 50 years, thanks to overgrazing and fungal disease. It
31 AUG TO 2 SEP
has disappeared from nine counties and is in serious decline in the others,
The Nantwich Food
which is bad news for the booming gin industry. The number of UK distilleries
Festival, Cheshire
rose from 128 in 2012 to 273 in 2017, but many are using imported juniper.
Expect marquees stuffed to
bursting with local produce
and artisan foods from
WORDS: RACHEL WALKER, PHOEBE STONE, SUSAN LOW. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES,

Win a farm-to-table across the UK. Don’t miss

feast in Cornwall WIN! live regional judging for the

2018 delicious. Produce
Awards in Fisher & Paykel’s
Last autumn we featured recipes from demo kitchen. Free;
REX /SHUTTERSTOCK. SOURCES: PLANTLIFE.ORG.UK, SWNS DIGITAL

the 1,000 Mouths festival, a series of nantwichfoodfestival.co.uk

feasts held at Nancarrow Farm in
Cornwall to raise funds for the charity 7-9 SEP
Action Against Hunger. This year we’re Pub in the Park, Knutsford
offering one reader and guest the chance Tom Kerridge’s travelling
to experience a Nancarrow Farm Feast festival heads north, with
for themselves. Before the meal begins, the organic farm and gardens are thrown open Angela Hartnett, Candice
for diners to explore while folk music, wood smoke and the aromas of something good Brown and the man himself.
cooking in the fire pit fill the courtyard air. Our winner and guest will enjoy a three-course Paul Ainsworth’s Cornish
autumnal banquet in the company of other local food lovers on Friday 5 October. You’ll restaurants will be among
also enjoy a night’s stay on the farm and a communal breakfast the next day. the pop-ups, plus there will
To enter, visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/promotions; for more information about events at be live music. Tickets £25 for
Nancarrow Farm, visit nancarrowfarm.co.uk. For Ts&Cs see p129 afternoon, £40 for evening;
pubintheparkuk.com

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 11
 RETRO
STYLE
These pages are about us doing the
hard work so you don’t have to. We’re sent Even if you don’t have
anywhere more fancy
anything from 40 to 100 new products a
to go than your garden,
month, and we really do try them all: tasting,
this smart wicker basket
smelling the aromas, testing gadgets. Only if they’re is beautiful enough to make you
useful, good-looking and value for money (this want to pack a picnic pronto. It comes with
month with an emphasis on picnics) do they get a complete set of tableware for two (ceramic plates,
the delicious. seal of approval. KAREN BARNES, EDITOR proper glasses and cutlery) and is roomy enough for the
non-chill food treats, too. Top value at £65, available from
National Trust shops and online at nationaltrust.org.uk

AL FRESCO TIMESAVER
Let’s be realistic – there isn’t always time to cook up And relax… A picnic needs a good rug
dishes like those in the picnic feature on p60. When as well as a pillow to cushion the head or indeed
a quality ‘cheat’ is called for, Higgidy’s new flavour- the posterior. Head to the Folksglove website
packed pastry-free (folksglove.com) for stylish essentials. Although
pies (aka frittatas!) on the pricier side at £95 for a rug and £40
are worth packing for a cushion, they’re built to last (backed with
in the hamper. We waterproof cotton) with sturdy leather handles.
liked the feta and
sweet-spicy
peppers and the
slow-cooked leek
with Abergavenny
goat’s cheese.
£4 each for 300g,
Waitrose and Ocado

HOT ON THE SHELVES: THE SAVOURY AND THE SWEET

PESTO FUSION
If you haven’t heard of ‘nduja, it’s a spicy
spreadable sausage from Calabria in
Italy. Here its powerful punch is married
OLIVES TO GO
Unlike other olive brands, Olly’s Olives
aren’t pasteurised, which keeps them
juicy and crunchy. The pocket-size
SUMMER’S EASIEST PUD?
Here’s the recipe: quality yogurt dolloped
with a spoonful of sour cherry compote
ILLUSTRATION:ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

from Cheshire-based Greek food

with gentler tomato pesto.
It’s good with pasta as
you’d expect, or stir into
roasting veg for the last
five minutes for an easy
flavour boost. From £2.40,
Waitrose and Tesco
pouches don’t contain any
messy oil, making them
perfect for picnics, and the
marinades (three to choose
from) are vibrant. £1.75 for
50g, Ocado, independent
delis and ollysolives.com
specialist Greka. Made
from cherries grown in the
fertile Tripolis region of
the Peloponnese, its
balance of sweet and sour
is crave-inducing. £5.50
for 314g, grekafoods.com

12 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 in the know.

This month I’m drinking…

Pimm’s No6 Vodka 2018’s summer
Cup is bright, fresh spritz Cocci Rosa
and, topped up with vermouth has red
ginger ale or tonic wine as its base,
with apple slices which gives it a
and a mint sprig, colour almost as
makes an excellent vivid as Campari
set-the-tone drink but with a sweeter,
for a summer’s day. more herbal, less BEST BUY
It was first launched bitter bite. Drink UNDER…
in 1964 but was later
discontinued. Now
with soda or tonic
YES, £5!
on the rocks,
Extra storage never
it’s back by popular with a wedge of
goes amiss, and these
demand – one taste grapefruit. £18 for
bamboo-lidded tins are
and you’ll see why. 50cl from Waitrose
a great discovery. From £2 for the small, short tin up
£20 for 70cl from (or £22.84 from
to £4 for the large one – a proper bargain. From
Majestic. masterofmalt.com
Flying Tiger stores across the UK; visit uk.flyingtiger.
com to find a store near you.

SPICE IT UP
Smoked paprika is a magic ingredient, as far as
I’m concerned – and even better when it comes
in a tin as pretty as this. Buy top quality dulce Keep it clean
(sweet), picante (hot) or agridulce (bitter sweet, Holiday been and gone? Or not had one yet?
ie medium hot). Save 15 per cent on Either way, this apron is a happy reminder of
your first order by adding the sun, sea and surf. It’s made from sturdy 100 per
code ‘delicious15’ at the cent cotton (unbleached) and is machine-
checkout. £3.95 for 70g washable, with
(free P&P), delcampo.co.uk adjustable neck
strap and ties
long enough to
COOL ALL- wrap round
ROUNDER and tie at the
front like
At the time of writing I can
chefs do
safely say summers don’t
(girth
come hotter than this in
permitting!).
the UK. Which calls for
£22, victoria
good kit to keep wine cool.
eggs.com
The Caddyo is clever:
freeze the gel cylinder for
at least four hours, slip
in a bottle of wine, then
zip the whole thing inside
the Neoprene jacket. We
tested it on the hottest day
– the wine chilled down
in 30 minutes and stayed
that way for at least six
hours. It comes with
corkscrew and carrying
strap. And it’s big enough
to hold a fat fizz bottle,
too. £30, steamer.co.uk

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 13
people.

SEAFOOD LOVER,
A SLICE OF MY LIFE

JACK STEIN
FROM TOP Jack loves
a picnic on a quiet
beach; travelling the
world influenced
his cooking;
Massimo Bottura
is an inspiration, The bearded chef talks about his love of
as is dad Rick (not
least for teaching
global food, learning to cut bread and
him to slice bread); eating on the beach – a side-effect of
he likes to play
with flavour
growing up in Cornwall
AL FRESCO EATING
My idea of a good summer picnic would be on a quiet
beach in Cornwall or Western Australia, where my partner
is from. Her family is Italian, so it would be sliced tomatoes
with a sprinkle of salt and amazing sausage made by her
dad, or maybe some ceviche snapper, cured with lime juice.

THE WORLD OF FOOD

I had a big advantage when I became a chef because
I already knew what food should taste like. Mum and Dad
cooked at home, we went out to eat and we travelled a lot.
We saw food cultures around the world and over the years
I’ve cherry-picked from different cuisines – I’d describe my
new book as a zombie hybrid!

BIG UP TO…
I like iconoclastic, funky chefs such as Massimo Bottura
and René Redzepi. They use what they do for good – these
days you need to recognise the fact your restaurant is in
a community and you need to look after it. You can only
produce avant-garde menus for so long before you ask,
“What about people who actually need food?”

LEARNING FROM THE MASTER

My dad taught me how to cut bread. I was revising for my
GCSEs and he’d been out to a party. He came back and

INTERVIEW: KERRY FOWLER. PHOTOGRAPHS: PAUL WINCH-FURNESS, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

said “Son” – and he never calls me son – “Son, I want to
show you how to cut bread.” It was all about the sawing
action; then he made some sandwiches and that was it. But
once I was a chef he taught me a lot: you have to be ready
to listen and know when you’ve got it right – and wrong.

BRAIN FOOD
I studied psychology and I’m interested in how taste works
with how we feel. Food is all about manipulating flavours,
so as a chef you can add a bit of Marmite (as I do) to trigger
the savoury, the umami. In France it might be lemon juice;
in Australia, finger limes – all around the world people
manipulate flavour centres differently. It’s enjoyable and
connects directly to the reward centres in the brain. I’ll be
honest, though, I should have paid more attention when
I was studying… I used to watch a lot of daytime TV.
Jack Stein is chef-director of the Rick Stein Group. His book,
World on a Plate (Absolute Press £26), is out now. Turn to
p35 for three summery seafood recipes by Jack’s dad Rick

14 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 the online one.

Like what you see?

Each month we’re creating an all-new recipe that’s available WEB
online only. So if you want to make this sumptuous pink-tinged EXCLUSIVE
raspberry meringue pie created by food editor Jen Bedloe,
you’ll have to grab your tablet, phone or laptop and go to…
RECIPE!
deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Raspberry curd
meringue pie

LISTEN TO
Share your views & food pics on our social media channels OUR PODCAST

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 15
 IN PRAISE OF
Convenience food
In this hymn to cupboard love, food writer Debora Robertson
expresses her passion for those storecupboard ingredients that
allow us to get dinner on the table without losing half a day – and possibly our minds
W
hen the Office for
National Statistics
added ready-made
mashed potato to its official ‘basket
of goods’ used to gauge consumer
price inflation earlier this year,
you could have drowned in
the avalanche of smuggery
that followed. Were people
too lazy, too spoiled, too
busy watching telly, or
too afraid to ruin their
manicures to mash now? The
hell-in-a-handcart harpies were
in their eye-rolling element.
Each head-tilting sigh of “how
lazy…” from those who weave their
own water made me increasingly
cross. Such sanctimony has nothing
to do with getting dinner on the
table and everything to do with
marking the tutters out as a superior
tribe to those of us who might
reach for a stock cube or some
frozen veg when we’re in a rush.
And let’s face it, lots of us are
in a rush. Or tired, or stressed
out, and trying to fit a meal in
between dashing back from work,
supervising homework, putting a
wash on and, you know, maybe as
a special treat, having five minutes
to ourselves? And then there are some of my favourite storecupboard
those who physically can’t manage ingredients. I included stock
all the peeling and chopping. cubes; frozen vegetables (especially
I consider my own ferociously spinach, peas and broad beans
independent parents – my dad’s – particularly ones with the skins
almost blind now and my mother slipped off to reveal the emerald
has arthritis in her hands. Being beauties beneath, because life is
genuinely too short to skin a broad
“Processed food isn’t bean); Merchant Gourmet pouches
of prepared rices and grains; tinned
necessarily synonymous pulses, tomatoes and fish; jars of
with junk food” tomato passata, roasted peppers
and artichokes; and of course
able to reach for pre-chopped frozen all-butter puff pastry
vegetables or pre-grated cheese is because… seriously.
the difference between them being Once I started listing my sanity-
able to cook for themselves and not. saving shortcuts it was hard to stop,
As I sometimes do when it’s but as a food writer this felt like
either that or swearing at the cat, dangerous territory, as though at
I tweeted my frustration about the any moment I might be expelled
dinnertime dictators and listed from the gang for confessing to not
Claire Thomson’s shortcut shortlist
Claire is a chef, food writer and mother to three small
children. She says, “I cook from scratch every day and
I have a few favourite ingredients that help facilitate my
cooking at home – my storecupboard is never without these five.”
l KECAP MANIS The Indonesian as a marinade, or to use to make
thick, sweet soy sauce makes the quickest ever cup of soup.
a blinding marinade for grilled l CRISPY FRIED ONIONS These
chicken or aubergines. add a dangerously addictive
l TURKISH CHILLI FLAKES crunch to all kinds of things:
I use both aleppo and urfa chilli pilau, pilaf, dhal… The perfect
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
flakes at home, often instead of finishing touch.
black pepper, for a sweet, hot l GHERKINS Always gherkins!
or smoky seasoning. Straight from the fridge with
l MISO a lump of cheese. I’m quite fond
PASTE To of pickled walnuts too.
mix with butter Claire Thomson’s latest book is
and chipotle paste The Art of the Larder (Quadrille £25)
 food for thought.

ANCHOVIES
Oisín Rodgers’ timesaver favourites
Oisín is general manager of Mayfair’s Guinea Grill and
London’s favourite publican. Tweeting as @McMoop, with
the hashtag #fridgebuffet, he’s gained a following for the
GHERKINS
late-night snacks he makes when he gets home from work. These
quick and quirky combinations might include ‘radishes, thyme salt,
pickled ginger, anchovies,’ or ‘crayfish, salad cream, kipper in a lettuce
spliff’ or ‘cheese, pickled pepper, mayo, crusty bread, balsamic kiwi’.

l TINNED ANCHOVIES are over a stick of mature cheddar,

so versatile they’re almost wrap in a slice of crumbed ham
a condiment. I’ll often have them and you’ll never look back.
on bread on their own with the l CHARCUTERIE FOR SLICING

oil from the tin. They’re even
more delicious with crunchy
lettuce and some pickled ginger.
l BLUE CHEESE (preferably
roquefort) has an oozy, sticky
texture like nothing else. Try it
with honey or slices of peach.
l SALAD CREAM is my go-to
squeezy condiment, just pipping
HP brown sauce. Squeeze some
having a vat of stock constantly
simmering on the stove, or my own
biodynamic herbs drying in the sun.
Then something wonderful
happened. I received hundreds
of replies from chefs, fellow food
writers and non-professionals too.
These replies easily drowned out
the joyless chunterings of the
gastropuritans. Positive tweets
listed ingredients I already loved,
such as Belazu rose harissa, Stokes
mayonnaise and bags of frozen
chopped chillies, to new discoveries
such as Waitrose’s frozen soffrito,
Ocado’s rich pickings from French
frozen food company Picard
(including peeled pearl onions,
chopped tomatoes and artichoke
hearts), The Spice Tailor dhals, cubed
butternut squash (I suspect A&E
departments across the land rejoice
at this one) and Lidl’s cartons of
béchamel. The list was a compelling
snapshot of how we live and eat
now, a cheerful hymn to simply
doing your best and keeping going.
It’s an indication of the shallow
nature of our newly rediscovered
food culture – and a lack of culinary
Brilliant with pickles. I love coppa
especially, and I always keep lots
in the fridge. Also nuts – sticky
walnuts cry out for charcuterie.
l CRUNCHYFLATBREADS
OR CRACKERS Jacob’s or Ritz
(both widely available), although
any crispbread works fine as
a vehicle – they carry all things
and lend crunch to quick bites.
confidence – that some cooks see
any kind of shortcut as cheating.
When I’m in France in the summer,
you virtually have to push your way
through the epicurean masses to
the tins of cassoulet and confit of
duck in the local supermarket.
Many Italians are passionate about
instant polenta; the Spanish and
Portuguese are positively fetishistic
about tinned fish and seafood.
The truth is, food made with these
shortcuts can be good and good for
you. Convenience is not a dirty word.
Processed food is not necessarily
synonymous with junk food. There
is a subtle – and sometimes not so
subtle – demonisation of processed
food, but lots of foods go through
some degree of processing before
they make it into our kitchens. Much
of the puritanical commentary
is exclusionist, elitist and lacking
in empathy and compassion. And
if nothing else, life is far
too short – and potentially
far too much fun – for
anyone to start getting
snooty about ready-
mashed potato.
Paste
ANCHOVIES
Diana Henry’s shortcut
shortlist
The award-winning food writer says,
“People assume food writers never
take shortcuts but I think, on a day-to-day basis,
that isn’t realistic. There are frozen peas and fish
fingers in my freezer, and jars and tins of beans in
my cupboards. I don’t berate myself for using them;
that isn’t what cooking is about. I draw the line at
some things – I don’t see the point in ready-grated
cheddar – but I think it’s better to make a meal
with a bit of help than not to make one at all.”
CHIPOTLE PASTE steak, tapenade and
Because I don’t always anchoïade. Top quality!
want to toast, then soak ORTIZ ANCHOVIES
dried chipotle chillies. (from souschef.com,
The paste is great for brindisa.com, amazon)
making mayo into a are pure luxury with a
spicy dip, for adding to few sliced tomatoes.
dressings and for using CHORIZO Provides
as a marinade. instant spice and
CHICKEN STOCK meatiness to fried eggs
Knorr Touch of Taste and potatoes or a baked
concentrated liquid sweet potato.
chicken stock (widely BEANS IN JARS
available) is the best. Navarrico judión butter
Wonderful for topping beans (from brindisa.
up homemade and com, Waitrose and
slightly weak stock or Ocado) aren’t cheap,
to make a quick soup. but they’re luscious
SUPERMARKET- with braised sausages.
BRAND ANCHOVIES Diana Henry’s latest
What possibilities: book is How to Eat
chopped into anchovy a Peach: menus,
mayo, salsa verde, stories and places
anchovy butter for (Mitchell Beazley £25).

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 17
 food for thought.

WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT...

Finding herself in a food-craving pickle, Kay Plunkett-Hogge heads
out of her comfort zone and discovers a whole new culinary world

POLISH DELIS
I had a food craving a couple of
days ago. For a reuben sandwich.
It was one of those honest-to-god,
itch-that-must-be-scratched, if
I don’t eat this in the next hour
I’m going to rip somebody’s head
off kind of cravings. You know:
the way some people feel about
chocolate. Or heroin. I was jonesing
for a decent Jewish deli.
I live in southwest London where
decent Jewish delis are hard to
come by. Admittedly, I moved to the
neighbourhood to be close to the
Thai supermarket, but still… I was
in the middle of cursing myself for
not having planned ahead when it
hit me: Jewish-American deli food,
as typified by Canter’s Deli in Los
Angeles and New York’s lamented
Reuben’s (where the aforementioned
sandwich was allegedly invented),
has its roots in eastern Europe.
So I went to the Polish
supermarket. Not kosher, I know
– my great-grandmother Rebecca
Cohen would’ve been furious. But
close enough. Reuben ingredients
MY AUGUST FOOD HIGHLIGHT
It has to be the 3 tablespoons of the
tomatoes… Proper, best extra-virgin
ripe, fragrant, juicy olive oil you’ve got.
tomatoes that Garnish with freshly
actually taste of… chopped flatleaf
tomato. Which means parsley and you’re
I will be making the good to go – but
simplest and best whatever you do don’t
tomato salad I know, make it in winter
picked up at a tapas when the tomatoes
bar called El Fogón taste of absolutely
and a jar of excellent pickles de San Andrés in nothing.
acquired, craving satisfied, I was left Seville: take 6
with one question: why had I never excessively ripe,
been in the Polish deli before? From large tomatoes, slice
pickles of every description to cheese them thickly, then
to smoked and cured meats to cut the slices
glorious rye breads, it’s a veritable in half. Toss with
treasure trove of ingredients. And 6 peeled and
the staff were so generous with their roughly sliced
time and knowledge, not to mention garlic cloves,
letting me try things before I bought a good pinch
them. Clearly even food writers can of salt and
get set in their ways, and I rather
appreciate the irony that it took a
craving for something familiar to
jolt me out of my comfort zone.

PRODUCT OF THE MONTH

Since we’ve just mentioned pickles, allow me
WASTE NOT, WANT NOT… to sing the praises of Tracklements
Charcuteriments, which I’ve
I’d never had much use for aubergine skins until my friend
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

Pepe, who runs my local Italian deli, told me to pickle them: been using to give punch to
blanch the skins in boiling water for 1 minute, refresh sandwiches and charcuterie
in cold water, dry, then quick-pickle in boards over the past month.
2-3 tablespoons red wine vinegar If the hot garlic pickle one
with a chopped garlic clove, (£3.95/100g) doesn’t force you
1 tbsp freshly chopped flatleaf to buy a pork pie, I don’t know
parsley, and salt and pepper. what will. tracklements.co.uk

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 19
 ALWAYS A WINNER

Ice cream
Who can resist the jingly, summery sound of an ice cream
van? These recipes celebrate our love for the frozen stuff.
We have a super-speedy no-churn ice cream sandwich,
a salted caramel Italian-style gelato and a showstopper
chocolate bombe… Form an orderly queue, please

SMASH AND GRAB

Mint chocolate
ice cream
parfait bombes,
p22

20 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 favourites.

BEST THING SINCE

SLICED BREAD
Brown butter
caramel and rye
bread gelato, p22
 Brown butter caramel
and rye bread gelato
SERVES 10 (MAKES ABOUT 1.5 LITRES). HANDS-ON
TIME 45 MIN, PLUS COOLING AND FREEZING
Once frozen the ice cream
MAKE will keep in the freezer for
AHEAD
up to 2 weeks.
The caramel will seize (become
FOOD
TEAM’S hard) and may split when the
TIPS
cream is added to the molten
sugar (step 3), but be patient and stir
carefully over a very low heat and it
will come together in a smooth sauce.
If you don’t have an ice cream machine,
freeze the thickened custard in a large
airtight container for 1-2 hours, then whisk
briefly with an electric hand mixer to help
prevent ice crystals forming and to make
the mixture light and aerated. Repeat the
process once or twice, adding the caramel
and toasted crumbs with the last mix.
• 100g stale rye bread (we used
The Village Bakery Organic
Rossisky Rye Bread)
• 600ml whole milk
• 1 tsp vanilla bean paste
• 75g golden caster sugar
• 3 tbsp cornflour
• 1 large free-range egg yolk
• 300ml double cream
FOR THE CARAMEL
• 80g salted butter
• 200g golden caster sugar
• 200ml double cream
• 1 tsp sea salt flakes
1 Tear the bread into small pieces and
whizz to crumbs in a food processor.
Transfer to a clean, dry heavy-based frying
pan and toast for 3-5 minutes, stirring,
until golden. Set aside in a bowl and wipe
the cooled pan clean with kitchen paper.
2 For the caramel, melt the butter in a
small pan over a low heat. When melted,
turn up the heat and cook until the butter
starts to brown and smells nutty. Remove
from the heat and leave to cool.
3 Put the 200g golden caster sugar in the
cleaned frying pan and melt over a medium
heat. Increase the heat so the sugar begins
to bubble and turn amber, swirling the pan
occasionally to get an even colour. Once the
sugar has turned amber, remove from the
heat, add the cream and stir constantly
22 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
(see tips). Return to a low heat and stir
until smooth. Stir in the browned butter
and salt, then leave to cool.
4 In a large heatproof mixing bowl, whisk
100ml of the milk with the vanilla paste,
sugar, cornflour and egg yolk until smooth.
5 Gently heat the 300ml cream and the rest
of the milk in a large heavy-based pan until
just beginning to steam. Slowly add it to
the milk and vanilla mixture, whisking all
the time. Return the mixture to the pan and
bring to the boil, whisking until thickened.
Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
6 Pour into an ice cream machine (see tips)
and churn until almost set. Add the toasted
crumbs and mix until well combined. Pour
in two-thirds of the caramel sauce as it
churns, then transfer to an airtight
container or large loaf tin and freeze for
6 hours or overnight, until set. Serve with
the remaining caramel sauce.
PER 50G SCOOP 155kcals, 11.2g fat (7.5g
saturated), 1.4g protein, 12.1g carbs
(9.6g sugars), 0.3g salt, 0.2g fibre
For more ways to use leftover rye bread,
see Loose Ends
Mint chocolate ice cream
parfait bombes
MAKES 10. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS
7-8 HOURS FREEZING
Make the parfaits to the end of
MAKE step 4 up to 2 weeks ahead. Finish
AHEAD
the recipe to serve. Once you’ve
covered them with chocolate, eat within a
day to prevent the surface of the chocolate
from blooming (turning white).
We used Spice Drops mint extract,
FOOD
TEAM’S available from amazon.co.uk or
TIP
Ocado. If you can’t find it, use any
good quality mint extract.
• 600ml double cream
• 25g pack fresh mint, leaves picked
and roughly chopped
• 4 medium free-range eggs, separated
• 200g caster sugar
• 1 tbsp cornflour
• Mint extract to taste (see tip)
• 150ml chocolate sauce (we used Joe &
Seph’s Chocolate Caramel Sauce)
• 300g dark chocolate, melted
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 10 dariole moulds, greased and bases
lined with non-stick baking paper discs
1 Put the cream and chopped mint in a
heavy-based saucepan and heat gently
until just boiling. Transfer to a blender, then
whizz until smooth and bright green. Put a
sieve over the pan and strain the mixture
back into the pan (discard the solids in the
sieve). Return to a low heat and keep warm.
2 Put the egg yolks in a large heatproof
mixing bowl, then whisk in 50g caster
sugar and the cornflour. Pour the warm
cream slowly over the yolk mixture,
whisking constantly, then strain through a
sieve back into the cleaned pan. Return to
the heat and stir until thickened, then
strain once more into a clean heatproof
bowl. Leave the custard to cool with a sheet
of cling film touching the surface to
prevent a skin forming, then chill.
3 Once the custard has chilled, taste and
add 5-10 drops of mint extract (see tips). In
a large clean bowl, using an electric hand
mixer, whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks
form when the beaters are removed. Whisk
in the remaining 150g sugar a tablespoon
at a time until the mixture is smooth and
glossy. Stir a large spoonful of the whisked
egg white into the custard mixture to
loosen it then, using a large metal spoon,
quickly fold in the rest using a figure-of-
eight motion. Drizzle about 100ml of the
chocolate sauce over the mixture and fold
in quickly for a marbled effect.
4 Divide half the ice cream mixture equally
among the moulds, dot another 1 tsp
chocolate sauce in the middle of each, then
fill with the remaining mixture. Cover each
mould with a few layers of cling film and
freeze for 6 hours or until solid.
5 Once frozen solid, remove the dariole
moulds from the freezer, boil the kettle
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: DELICIOUS. FOOD TEAM. PHOTOGRAPHS: MIKE ENGLISH
and pour some of the water into a small
heatproof bowl. Dip the base of each mould
in the hot water for 2-3 seconds, then turn
AND TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS AND VICTORIA ELDRIDGE
over and put on a plate. Tap firmly on the
bottom to release the bombe. Run a dinner
knife around the edge of the parfait if
you’re having difficulty turning them out.
Working quickly, put all the bombes on a
wire rack set over a sheet of baking paper.
6 Carefully pour the melted chocolate
over the top of each bombe to completely
coat in a thin layer, then return to the
freezer for at least 1-2 hours until set, or
until ready to serve (see Make Ahead).
PER BOMBE 556kcals, 41.7g fat (25.1g
saturated), 5.3g protein, 39.3g carbs (35g
sugars), 0.1g salt, 1g fibre
 favourites.

COVER RECIPE
No-churn blackcurrant ripple
ice cream sandwiches
MAKES 8-10 SANDWICHES. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, PLUS AT
LEAST 6 HOURS FREEZING

Start at least the day before you want

MAKE to serve the ice cream. Keep it wrapped
AHEAD
in its tin for up to 2 weeks.
When blackcurrants are in season,
FOOD
TEAM’S add a few to the jam mixture in
TIP
step 1 for a touch of extra fruitiness.

• 5 tbsp good quality blackcurrant jam

• Juice ½ lemon
• 1 tbsp freshly chopped thyme leaves, plus
a few extra to serve (optional)
• 397g can Nestlé condensed milk
• 600ml double cream
• 2 tsp vanilla bean paste
• 16-20 ice cream wafers
• 30g toasted hazelnuts, chopped (optional)

YOU’LL ALSO NEED…

• 900g (2lb) loaf tin, lined with non-stick
baking paper overhanging 2 sides

1 In a small bowl mix the jam with the lemon

juice and thyme, then set aside (see tip).
2 Put the condensed milk, cream and vanilla in
a large bowl and whisk using an electric hand
mixer until thick, stiff and voluminous (about
8-10 minutes). Spoon half into the loaf tin, then
dollop the jam on top and use a wooden spoon
handle to ripple the jam through. Top with
the remaining mixture and swirl the top half.
Cover with cling film and freeze for at least
6 hours (preferably overnight) until firm.
3 To serve, take out of the freezer for a few
minutes to soften slightly, lift out of the tin using
the baking paper, then slice with a knife warmed
in a jug of hot water and put between wafers to
make ice cream sandwiches. Sprinkle with extra
thyme leaves and chopped hazelnuts (if using).
PER SERVING (FOR 10) 495kcals, 37.6g fat (22.2g
saturated), 5.3g protein, 33.4g carbs (27.3g
sugars), 0.2g salt, 0.7g fibre

NEXT MONTH
Three great takes on
chicken curry
 ROAST OF THE MONTH
SPANISH-STYLE
ROAST CHICKEN
You can’t go wrong with roast chicken, but when it incorporates the glorious colours and
flavours of chorizo and fresh peppers, it raises the bar. Why keep it just for Sundays?
When I was a boy,
Mum would cook
dinner for the family
from Monday to
Saturday. Sunday
was her day off and
the apron would then
be handed to Dad.
He’s from a small
village in central
Spain, so you could
rely on his dinner
being a Spanish dish
such as paella or
what he called
mountain food – something like a huge bowl
of lentils. Occasionally he’d do a roast chicken
with a typical Spanish twist, and this recipe
is my interpretation of that wonderful, full-
of-flavour dish. I hope my children will also
create their own version of this roast chicken
eventually, and I’m looking forward to that day,
sitting around the table and enjoying it together.
That’s what family cooking is all about.
RICHARD RODRIGUEZ
RICHARD’S STORY He was born
in Spain and is an enthusiastic
self-taught cook who runs the
food blog familyhomecook.co.uk.
You may well recognise his face
as he was a contestant in the 2017
series of MasterChef, cooking wild
NEXT mushroom ravioli for John
MONTH Torode and Gregg Wallace – and
nearly making it through to the
Spice-rubbed
roast beef with quarter-finals.
late-summer veg
24 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Paprika-roast chicken
with potatoes and peppers
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN
TIME 1 HOUR 20 MIN, PLUS RESTING
When slicing the potatoes
RICHARD’S (step 2), slice a bit from one
TIP
end of each potato and sit
it flat on the chopping board. This
will make it safer to slice thinly.
If the veg needs a bit longer
FOOD
TEAM’S to crisp up, put the tray
TIP
back in the oven for 10-15
minutes while the chicken rests.
• 1.6kg free-range chicken
• 1 lemon, halved
• Good quality olive oil
• 2 tsp smoked paprika
• 800g large floury potatoes, such
as maris piper, unpeeled
• 2 large onions, peeled
• 3 red peppers
• 200g chorizo
• Chilli flakes (optional)
• Handful fresh flatleaf parsley,
finely chopped
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Put the chicken in a large
roasting tray and put both lemon
halves in the cavity. Pour enough
olive oil over the chicken to coat it
nicely, then sprinkle with the paprika
and some salt and pepper. Give the
chicken a good rub all over to mix
the oil, paprika and seasoning
together. Roast on the middle shelf
of the oven for 35 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, cut the potatoes into
0.5cm slices (see Richard’s tip) and
cut the onions into quarters. Remove
the core and seeds from the peppers,
then slice into strips. Finally cut the
chorizo into 2cm slices and put it
and the vegetables in a large bowl.
3 Drizzle the veg and chorizo with
a good glug of olive oil. Add plenty
of salt and pepper and toss to coat.
Add a pinch of chilli flakes, if using.
4 Once the chicken has had
35 minutes in the oven, carefully
remove the roasting tray and baste
the chicken with any juices that are
gathering in the bottom of the tray.
Tip the veg and chorizo around the
chicken, give it all a good mix and
put the tray back in the oven for
about 45 minutes. Baste the chicken
once or twice during cooking and
don’t let the chorizo get too crisp.
5 Once the chicken is cooked through
(when the thickest part of the thigh
PHOTOGRAPH: TARA FISHER. FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: WEI TANG
reads 70°C on a digital thermometer
or the juices run clear when pierced
with a skewer), transfer to a carving
board to rest, covered with foil (see
food team’s tip).
6 Sprinkle the parsley over the veg
and chorizo. Carve the chicken and
serve with a spoonful of veg and
chorizo, drizzled with some of the
cooking juices. I like to have some
fresh baguette to mop up the juices
from my plate and an ice-cold
Spanish beer to go with the chicken.
PER SERVING 795kcals, 30.3g fat
(9.2g saturated), 75.6g protein,
49.9g carbs (12.3g sugars), 2.3g salt,
10.2g fibre
weekend highlight.
 The recipe hall of fame
QUICHE LORRAINE
It’s the time of year for eating in the great outdoors, and what better fodder than a
melt-in-the-mouth quiche? Food writer Debbie Major gives her version of a quiche
lorraine – with added savouriness from cheese. She’s also conjured up a summery
recipe using Boursin, quail eggs and chives. Time to shake out the picnic blanket…
How to jazz it up
• Add other flavourings and fillings to
your quiche, such as fresh herbs, roasted
and cooled veg or smoked fish.
• Use chopped sliced bacon instead of
bacon lardons. Sweet, maple-cured bacon
is also delicious, or add a drizzle of honey
to the fried lardons and stir to coat.
• Swap the bacon for ham. Chopped ham,
flaked ham hock or shredded air-dried
ham all work very well.
• Use a wholemeal pastry case or one
made with a little medium oatmeal for
an extra nutty taste.
• Sprinkle over a handful of mixed seeds
or nuts just before the end of the baking
time for some added crunch.
26 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
THE MASTER RECIPE
Quiche lorraine
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN,
OVEN TIME 45-55 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Bake the pastry case up
MAKE to 2 days ahead and keep
AHEAD
in an airtight container.
The finished quiche will keep for
1-2 days, covered, in the fridge.
Bring back to room temperature or
warm in the oven before serving.
• 200g smoked bacon lardons
• 3 large free-range eggs
• 300ml double cream
• 75g gruyère cheese, grated
• ¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
FOR THE PASTRY
• 225g plain flour, plus extra to dust
• ½ tsp salt
• 65g chilled butter, cut into cubes
• 65g chilled lard, cut into cubes
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 23cm x 4cm deep fluted tart tin or
flan tin, lightly greased with butter
1 For the pastry, put the flour in a
food processor with the salt, butter
and lard. Whizz briefly until it looks
like fine breadcrumbs, then transfer
to a mixing bowl (or rub in with your
fingers in a bowl) and stir in about 2
tbsp water until the mixture comes
together in a ball. Turn out onto a
lightly floured surface and knead
briefly until smooth. Roll out the
pastry to the thickness of a pound
coin and use to line the greased flan
tin. Prick the base here and there
with a fork, then chill for 20 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, put a baking sheet in
the oven and heat to 200°C/180°C
fan/gas 6. Line the pastry case with
a crumpled sheet of baking paper
and fill with ceramic baking beans
or uncooked rice. Slide it onto the
hot baking sheet and bake for 15-20
minutes until the edges are biscuit-
coloured. Remove the paper and
beans/rice and return to the oven for
5-6 minutes until crisp and golden.
Remove and turn the oven down to
190°C/170°C fan/gas 5.
3 Meanwhile, make the filling. Fry
the bacon lardons in a dry non-stick
frying pan over a medium heat until
crisp and golden (about 5 minutes),
then scoop out with a slotted spoon
and drain on kitchen paper. Scatter
two thirds over the pastry case base.
4 Crack the eggs into a large bowl
and beat lightly with a fork. Gently
whisk in the cream, then stir in 50g
of the grated gruyère, the nutmeg
and some pepper (hold back on the
salt as the bacon and cheese are
quite salty). Pour the mixture into
the pastry case and scatter over the
remaining bacon and cheese.
5 Bake the quiche in the oven for 25
minutes or until just set and lightly
golden. Leave to rest for 5-10
minutes before removing from the
tin. Cut into wedges to serve.
PER SERVING 697kcals, 57.8g fat
(31g saturated), 17g protein,
26.5g carbs (1.1g sugars), 2g salt,
1.4g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE The classic
partner here is a balanced pinot
blanc from Alsace in eastern France.
 favourites.

THE HISTORY
Quiche is considered a classically
French dish but it originated in the
16th century in the (then) German
region of Lothringen, later renamed
Lorraine by the French. The word
‘quiche’ derives from the German
‘kuchen’ for cake. It was originally
made with a base of bread dough,
with an egg and milk/cream custard
filling flavoured with lean diced
smoked bacon. Now synonymous
with the Alsace and Lorraine regions
of western France, it’s made with a
pastry crust. The classic version is
still made without cheese, which is
a later (but well loved) addition.

THE ESSENTIAL
INGREDIENTS
FREE-RANGE EGGS with deep
coloured yolks to give your filling
a beautiful buttery yellow colour.
THE BEST BACON you can buy.
Smoky and slightly sweet is perfect.
DOUBLE CREAM isn’t essential but
gives the quiche a rich texture.
A WELL FLAVOURED, buttery, hard
alpine cheese. Gruyère, beaufort
and comté all fit the bill.

THE DEFINING
CHARACTERISTICS
• Crisp, short pastry to contrast
with the silky-smooth filling.
• Lightly set egg custard enriched
with cream and flavoured with a
little aromatic nutmeg.
• Filling studded with salty nuggets
PHOTOGRAPHS: KATE WHITAKER. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR

of smoked bacon.
• The subtle savouriness of a well
flavoured cheese.

DEBBIE’S TIPS FOR

SUCCESS
• Fry the lardons slowly to release
the excess fat and render them crisp
and golden. If the lardons are large,
chop them into smaller pieces first.
• Blind-bake the pastry case before
filling or you’ll be left with that
infamous soggy bottom.
• Cook the pastry case on a hot
baking sheet to ensure the centre of
the base is crisp and cooked.
• Don’t overcook. The filling should
be lightly set, like an egg custard. Turn the page for a quiche variation →
favourites.
Recipe with a twist
Air-dried ham and
Boursin quiche with
quail eggs
SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN,
OVEN TIME 45-55 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Bake the pastry case up
MAKE to 2 days ahead and keep
AHEAD
in an airtight container.
The finished quiche will keep for
a day or two, well wrapped in
the fridge. Bring back to room
temperature or warm through in
a medium oven before serving.
• 25g butter
• 1 bunch spring onions, trimmed
and thinly sliced
• 150g pack Garlic & Herbs
Boursin cheese
• 3 large free-range hen’s eggs
• 300ml crème fraîche
• 20g chives, chopped
• 100g air-dried ham, such as
French bayonne or Italian parma
NEXT
MONTH
The classic
crumble – and a
twist you’ll love
28 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• 12 fresh (uncooked) quail eggs
• 25g comté cheese, coarsely
grated
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 1 quantity shortcrust pastry
(see master recipe, p26)
• 23cm x 4cm deep fluted tart tin
or flan tin, lightly greased with
butter
1 Make the pastry, line the tart
or flan tin and bake the pastry
case exactly as in the master
recipe (steps 1 & 2).
2 While the pastry case is baking,
make the filling. Melt the butter in
a frying pan, add the spring onions
and cook gently for 2 minutes until
just softened. Remove from the
heat and leave to cool slightly.
3 Crumble the Boursin cheese
into a mixing bowl, crack in one of
the hen’s eggs and mash together
with the cheese until smooth. Add
the remaining hen’s eggs and the
crème fraîche, then beat with
a fork until smooth. Stir in the
spring onions and three quarters
of the chopped chives.
4 Shred the air-dried ham into
small pieces, scatter them over
the base of the pastry case, then
pour over the egg mixture. Crack
the quail eggs over the top of the
quiche, then scatter over the 25g
grated cheese and the rest of the
chives. Bake for 25-30 minutes
until lightly set and golden. Leave
to rest for 5-10 minutes before
removing the quiche from the tin.
Cut into wedges to serve.
PER SERVING (FOR 8) 594kcals,
47.9g fat (26.6g saturated), 18.3g
protein, 21.6g carbs (2.3g sugars),
1.5g salt, 1.3g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Chablis,
the cool-climate, crisp but fruity
chardonnay of northern Burgundy,
is a great white for this.

MEET THE MAN WHO
KNOWS WHERE TO
FIND FOOD FOR FREE
Forager Wross Lawrence knows how to spot a feast where others just see foliage. Susan Low
joined him in West Sussex as he searched for his award-winning sea purslane
WHAT OUR FINAL JUDGING PANEL SAID
“Good fleshy texture
and a fresh, zingy
flavour with wonderful
citrus notes.”
30 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
delicious. 2017
PRODUCE AWARDS WINNER
PHOTOGRAPHS DAVID CHARBIT
W
ith his bushy red beard and
kind smile, Wross was easy to
pick out from the crowd at
Brighton station, our meeting point for
the afternoon’s foray. I recognised Wross’s
face from his Instagram account – but what
I wasn’t prepared for was the powerful
aroma of garlic that greeted me as I
climbed into his blue van. With 20kg wild
garlic leaves stacked in the back – from
his morning’s foraging – there was no
need to lock up; no one was going to nick
this vehicle. By the time we got to our
destination, I felt (and no doubt smelled) as
though I’d been thoroughly marinated in
garlic and was ready for the slow cooker.
Our sea purslane search took place
on the tidal estuary of the River Adur,
beautiful coastal wilds near the town of
Shoreham-by-Sea. You couldn’t conjure
a prettier image of the English coast.
At low tide there’s a sandy beach, and
the surface of the river has a silvery sheen.
There were a pair of swans, a heron, a
falcon wheeling overhead; dog walkers
and cyclists going about their business to
an exuberant soundtrack of birdsong.
Wross pointed out the sea purslane
(Halimione portulacoides) that grows
abundantly here: a small shrubby plant
with thick, silvery grey leaves. Following
Wross’s lead, I nibbled a few. They tasted
like breathing in the freshest, cleanest,
most ozone-charged lungful of sea air.
Bearing in mind the beauty of the
surroundings, the question, “What’s the
best part of your job?” felt a bit obvious.
“Today’s a good example,” he replied. “It
doesn’t get much nicer than this – T-shirt
weather, sunshine. One thing that’s
enjoyable for me is spending time picking
something in particular – for example
sheep sorrel or wood sorrel. They have
small leaves so if you have an order for
3-4kg, it takes a long time. But I get lost
in the process. You get into the zone.”
A FORAGER’S LIFE
Wross’s career path couldn’t be described
as ordinary. He started out as a fisherman
and still works as a tree surgeon in
the foraging off-season. He explains:
“I grew up in the harbour village of
Saundersfoot in Pembrokeshire, South
Wales, and knew a guy who worked on
a fishing boat. He said, ‘Why don’t you
come and work for me?’ So I worked as
a fisherman for five years and it got to the
point where I was going to do that forever,
or not; and I knew I didn’t want to be
a fisherman forever.”
Fishermen, inevitably, eat lots of fish
and Wross was used to picking the likes
of sea kale from the local foreshore to go
with it – and soon an opportunity came
his way. “I met a guy who had a foraging
company in Wales and I spoke to him
about my interest. He said, ‘I’ll teach you
a bit more if you want.’ So I ended up
working with him for about five years.”
After learning the foraging ropes,
Wross moved to London and set up →
 meet the producer.

“Picking is so enjoyable that

I get lost in the process”

TURN THE PAGE TO FIND A RECIPE

USING SEA PURSLANE →

WILD WORLD, CLOCKWISE

FROM THIS PICTURE
Picking can be a therapeutic
pastime; the estuary of the
River Adur; spot wild purslane
leaves by their pale, silvery
leaves; as the seasons change,
so does the foraging

Wross Lawrence is
a one-man team
on his own about eight years ago. And
when he says “on his own” he means it.
“I rent a kitchen unit with fridges in north
London, where I take the stuff I collect
and keep it overnight. The next day I wash
it, weigh it and pack it – I do all the
picking, washing, packing and labelling
myself – it’s a one-man team.”
Is that part of the appeal, I ask? “It
kind of is, in a way,” he laughs. “There’s
something really nice about the solitude
of it, the peacefulness of being near
the river.” The parts of the job Wross
likes least are not, as you might expect,
the weather or the insect bites or the
threat of stinging nettle rash (which our
photographer, David, experienced,
somewhat painfully). “I don’t mind the
rain or snow
– it’s just a
matter of
wearing the
right clothes.
The worst
side is the
accounting,
WHERE TO BUY Wross’s foraged produce is available through
Abel & Cole (abelandcole.co.uk). Wild sea purslane,
available for much of the year, is £1.85 for 50g plus P&P.
the admin, the emails – I’m not good
at that,” he admits. “But on a day like
today…” His beaming smile says it all.
EATING THE SEASONS
Foraging, it goes without saying, is tied to
the seasons, as well as the weather. “My
year starts in late March with wild garlic,”
explains Wross. “I pick the flowers as well
as the seed pods, which are lovely pickled.
And just about the time the wild garlic
finishes, I start with the elderflowers.”
At roughly the same time, the first of
the sea purslane is ready (like other sea
vegetables, it has a lengthy season), as are
its relatives, sea beet and sea aster. In
June, salty, succulent marsh samphire,
which also grows on this patch of estuary,
comes into season. Then it’s wild salad
leaves such as dandelion, wild clovers
and wild fennel. Later, it’s rosehips, then
the season ends with sloe berries around
the time of the first frost. Wross works
across Surrey, Kent, and East and West
Sussex. “The terrain is a mix of coastal,
from any sort of tributary to the sea, or
streams, and woodland – it’s a nice mix.”
On a good day, Wross will pick 8-10kg sea
purslane and 10kg leathery sea beet.
Getting food this way is the polar
opposite of shopping for food in a
temperature-controlled supermarket,
where every fruit, vegetable or leaf from
around the globe is available 24/7,
hygienically wrapped and oven-ready.
Foraged food is all about time and place
and the rhythm of the seasons, and that’s
its appeal, for the forager and the consumer.
FORAGING’S FUTURE
Foraging, of course, is nothing new. It’s
what our hunter-gatherer forebears did to
keep themselves fed, before and after they
domesticated animals, cultivated plants
and settled into permanent farming
communities. But foraging has become
trendy in recent years, thanks largely to
chefs such as René Redzepi, founder of the
famed Noma restaurant in Copenhagen.
Redzepi is a champion of wild, seasonal
food, and Noma’s influential menus are
built around local seasonal ingredients.
Foraged food is the pride of restaurants
across the UK, from Edinburgh’s Forage
& Chatter to Bristol’s The Ethicurean and
London’s Native, and then there are
countless foraging classes and courses for
the wannabe food forager across the UK.
Richard Mabey’s bestseller, Food for Free,
a kind of bible for wild food aficionados,
first published in 1972 and re-issued in
2012, is one of scores of popular books on
the subject, from the River Cottage
Handbook series (which covers everything
from seashores to hedgerows) to Ray
Mears’ Wild Food. Our own Gill Meller
(see p45) is a wild food enthusiast, too.
The popularity of wild and foraged
foods has been an obvious boon for Wross
as without a ready market of people who
understand what foraged food is all about
and who want to cook and eat it, he’d be
out of a job. But its popularity can be a
double-edged sword. Take the British
market for wild mushrooms, says Wross.
“There are a lot of mushrooms coming
in from Eastern Europe now,” he explains.
“So if I were to forage for mushrooms,
I wouldn’t be able to compete on price. And
something similar is happening with sea
ILLUSTRATION: ALICE CLEARY. RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: ROSIE RAMSDEN. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: LIZZIE MAYSON. STYLING: TABITHA HAWKINS
vegetables. Some are now being grown in
polytunnels, which forces the price down,
meaning I’m making less and less money.
In 10 years or so, I can imagine it becoming
impossible to do this kind of work.”
Clearly one of life’s carpe-diem-type
optimists, Wross ponders for a moment,
then smiles and says, “But for the time
being, at least I still get to be here in
a place like this and do what I do.” And
we all get to enjoy the fruit of his labours.
 meet the producer.

Chilli and garlic prawns

with sea purslane
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN

• 100g wild sea purslane (see

Where to buy, opposite page)
• 2 good glugs extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 garlic cloves, unpeeled, bashed
with a rolling pin
• 1 tsp chilli flakes
• 800g large sustainable raw
shell-on tiger or king prawns
• Grated zest and juice 1 lemon,
plus wedges to serve
• 100ml good quality dry white wine
• Fresh baguette or sourdough
to serve

1 Pull the purslane leaves from the

stalks; discard the woody stalks.
2 Heat the oil in a wide frying pan
and add the garlic, chilli and sea
purslane. Fry for 1 minute, then add
the prawns. Cook for 2 minutes on
each side until bright pink, then add
the lemon zest, juice and white wine.
Turn up the heat and simmer briskly
for 3 minutes. Don’t cook off all the
wine, as the acidity is key to this dish.
3 Remove from the heat and serve
straight from the pan with hunks of Judging continues this month for the
fresh crusty baguette or sourdough. regional rounds of the 2018 delicious.
PER SERVING 263kcals, 10.2g fat Produce Awards. During August produce
(1.6g saturated), 36.5g protein, will be assessed from Scotland at the
1g carbs (0.7g sugars), 1.2g salt, Perth Show (3-4 August) and from
1.6g fibre the North West at the Nantwich Food NEXT
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Chill a crisp, Festival (31 August-2 September). To take MONTH
unoaked, modern Spanish white for a look at all the shortlisted contenders, visit Riverford
Organic Farmers’
this, such as a verdejo or sauvignon deliciousmagazine.co.uk/produceawards award-winning
blanc from the Rueda region. mini cucumbers

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 33
THE HEAT OF
THE MOMENT
Thanks to Fisher & Paykel’s induction hobs, rustling up
impressive crowd-pleasing dishes has never been easier,
safer – or more enjoyable

Fisher & Paykel induction hob CI905DTB3

T
here’s no doubt about the importance of
the hob in cooking incredible food – and
Fisher & Paykel’s Touch&Slide 90cm
5 zone induction hob will comfortably outshine
all your previous cooktops. Thanks to highly
accurate temperature controls, you can sauté,
sear and temper like a pro, and the easy-to-use
Touch&Slide controls react immediately when
you adjust the heat, allowing you to switch from
a boil to a simmer in seconds. The hob’s Power
and GentleHeat features, meanwhile, deliver a magnetic stainless steel and
very high and very low heat for specialised
CLEVER COOKING cast iron – can be used on
cooking tasks, such as searing meat It may look and sound rather induction hobs (check with
and melting chocolate – and there’s even an fancy, but induction cooking is the retailer if you’re unsure
integrated timer to keep you on track. actually quite simple. When a pot whether yours is suitable).
Induction hobs only start heating up when or pan is placed on an induction Induction cooking’s unrivalled
you place your pot or pan on them and stop as hob, an electromagnetic current precision and power, plus
soon as it’s removed, making them really safe to passes through a coil beneath the the fact that it’s energy
use even when there are children in the kitchen. surface and heats only the pot or efficient and safer to use, is
Plus, induction only heats the cookware, so the pan – not the hob itself. As a making it an increasingly
surface stays cool throughout. This prevents result, only cookware made from popular choice among serious
tough baked-on spills and means that all it takes magnetic materials – such as cooks. Time for an upgrade?
is a quick wipe to have your hob looking as good
as new. Induction cooking is also more energy-
efficient than gas or electric, as no heat is wasted Discover the full Fisher & Paykel
during the process. induction hob range at fisherpaykel.com/uk
 what’s good now.

Rick Stein’s guide to

SUMMER SHELLFISH
He’s the go-to expert for everything you need to know about British fish
and seafood – when it’s at its best, where to get it from and, most
importantly, how to cook and enjoy it. These fresh-as-a-sea-breeze,
flavour-packed recipes show off British shellfish in its prime

Mussels
skordalia, p40

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 35
 British shellfish – lobster,
crab, prawns, scallops,
mussels, oysters and clams –
are mostly at their best
in the summer months,
and that’s also when they’re
at their best value. Whether
it be the sweet white
firmness of lobster, the
gloriously salty, sweet
flavour of crab, the delicious soft density of
scallops, the plumpness of just-cooked mussels
or the fresh salty tang of oysters, I think our
shellfish are the best in the world. RICK STEIN
RECIPES RICK STEIN PHOTOGRAPHS TARA FISHER
FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH STYLING WEI TANG
Gratins à la dieppoise
with sea bass, scallop,
mussels and prawns
SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT LUNCH, 8 AS A
STARTER. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN
TIME 10 MIN
This is from our menu at
The Seafood Restaurant in
Padstow, where the head chef
is Stephane Delourme. It’s his
take on a pleasingly old-fashioned
recipe from Normandy: seafood
in a cream, fish stock and white
wine sauce.
Assemble the gratins up to
MAKE 12 hours ahead. Cover, keep
AHEAD
in the fridge and add an extra
3-5 minutes to the baking time.
If you can’t find clarified
FOOD
TEAM’S butter or ghee use light
TIP
olive oil. Or, to clarify your
own butter, melt it in a clean pan,
then strain through a clean J-cloth
to remove the white milk solids and
leave the clear butter.
• 400ml fresh fish or shellfish stock
• Fresh thyme sprig
• 1 bay leaf
• 240g sustainable sea bass fillet,
skinned
• 4 sustainable British king scallops,
each sliced in half to form 2 discs
• 15g butter, plus extra for frying
• ½ banana shallot, finely chopped
• 16 British mussels, scrubbed,
beards removed, see p38 (discard
any that don’t close when tapped
sharply on the work surface)
• 2 tbsp dry white wine
• 20g plain flour
• 40ml double cream
• 1 lemon, halved for squeezing
• 40g button mushrooms, stalks
removed and thickly sliced
• Knob of clarified butter or ghee
(see tip)
• 40g panko breadcrumbs
• 16 sustainable raw king prawns,
peeled
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 8 scallop shells (available from
your fishmonger) or 8 shallow
ramekins →
 what’s good now.

Gratins à la
dieppoise with sea
bass, scallop,
mussels and
prawns

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 37
1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/ stirring occasionally, then stir in covered in the fridge until ready to
gas 4. Put the fish stock in a deep, the cream and season to taste with use (bring to room temperature first).
heavy-based frying or sauté pan. a squeeze of lemon juice and salt.
Warm gently with the thyme and 4 Heat an extra knob of butter in a I came across this dish all over
bay, add a pinch of salt, then lower frying pan and add the mushrooms. the Adriatic. I had a good one in
the sea bass fillet into the stock. Add 2 tsp water and juice of half a Bulgaria, but the best version
Poach for 1-2 minutes, turning over lemon and cook for 3-4 minutes until was in Albania. Lots of pasta
halfway through the cooking time. soft. Pour any excess liquid into the tossed with shellfish and a sauce
Remove with a slotted spoon and set sauce. Set the mushrooms aside on made from the shells along with
aside, then repeat with the scallops. a plate. Wipe out the pan and heat the tomatoes, olive oil and garlic.
Strain the stock and keep warm to clarified butter (see tip), add the
make the sauce. panko breadcrumbs and fry for 2-3 • 60ml olive oil
2 Heat a knob of butter in a medium minutes until lightly golden. • 2 unpeeled garlic cloves, bruised
saucepan that has a tight-fitting lid. 5 To assemble the gratins, put a little • 12 sustainable medium shell-on
Once the butter is foaming, add the sauce in a scallop shell/ramekin and raw prawns, peeled, heads and
shallot and fry for 30 seconds. Add top with half a scallop, some flakes of shells reserved
the mussels, stir quickly, then pour sea bass, 2 mussels, 2 prawns and • 2 tbsp tomato purée
in 1 tablespoon of the wine and cover 3-4 mushroom slices. Finish with a • 350g dried linguine
with the lid. Cook for 3-4 minutes, covering of sauce and a sprinkle of • 60g British squid rings and
shaking the pan occasionally until panko breadcrumbs. Bake for 10 tentacles, cleaned
the mussels have just opened. minutes before serving. • 16 British mussels, scrubbed,
Strain in a colander/sieve, making PER SERVING (FOR 4) 336kcals, beards removed (discard any that
sure you catch and reserve the 19.1g fat (9g saturated), 28.4g don’t close when tapped sharply
liquid. Remove the mussels from protein, 11.2g carbs (0.8g sugars), on the work surface)
their shells (discard any that haven’t 1.7g salt, 0.4g fibre • ¼ tsp chilli flakes
opened; discard the shells). WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Chill a dry • 2 handfuls cherry tomatoes, halved
3 To make the sauce, melt the 15g but relatively rich and rounded white • ½ tsp sea salt
butter in a medium pan over a burgundy. A classic wine match. • Handful fresh flatleaf parsley,
medium heat, then stir in the flour roughly chopped
and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Seafood linguine
Pour in the remaining tablespoon of SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
wine then, whisking continuously, SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN • Stick blender or food processor
slowly add the warm fish stock and
mussel liquid (be careful not to add Make and sieve the prawn/ 1 Heat half the olive oil in a large,
any grit) to form a smooth sauce. MAKE tomato stock up to 24 hours deep, heavy-based frying or sauté
AHEAD
Simmer for 10 minutes to thicken, in advance. Once cold keep pan with a tight-fitting lid. Add the
garlic and prawn heads and shells
and fry over a high heat for 5 minutes,
turning from time to time. Add the
WHEN IS BRITISH SHELLFISH AT ITS BEST? tomato purée and 300ml cold water,
My friend, fisherman David Evans, who supplies our restaurants, then simmer with the lid on for 10
gave me this advice about the best time to enjoy British shellfish… minutes. Use a stick blender to
whizz the mixture (or cool slightly
RECIPE FROM RICK STEIN: FROM VENICE TO ISTANBUL (BBC BOOKS £25)
l LOBSTER End of May to end of August and whizz in a food processor). Pass
l CRAB Mid-May to end of September through a sieve into a bowl and set
l SCALLOPS Virtually any time of year but aside (discard the solids in the sieve).
especially good in the summer 2 Cook the linguine in a large pan of
l OYSTERS, MUSSELS AND CLAMS salted boiling water for 10 minutes or
It used to be considered dangerous until al dente (firm to the bite).
to eat these shellfish in summer Meanwhile, wipe out the frying/sauté
because they spawn at this time of pan, then add the rest of the olive oil
year, so they’re not as plump and there are a lot of milky eggs. and fry the squid and prawns over a
These days, thanks to refrigeration and safe harvesting, high heat for 2 minutes.
‘bad molluscs’, as they are called, are a thing of the past, and 3 Add the strained prawn and
clever breeding of different species makes the milkiness much tomato stock, then the mussels,
less of a problem than it used to be. chilli flakes and cherry tomatoes.
Bring to the boil, cover with the lid →
 what’s good now.

Seafood
linguine

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 39
what’s good now.

and boil rapidly for 4 minutes until Make the skordalia up to

the mussels have opened (discard MAKE the end of step 2 a day in
AHEAD
any that don’t open). Remove the lid advance. Keep covered in
and, if necessary, bubble the liquid the fridge and stir well before using.
to reduce to a sauce consistency, Use 1 tsp salt per 600ml
then season with the salt and ground RICK’S water when cooking
TIPS
black pepper (about 10 twists of a potatoes. It’s best to prepare
pepper mill). Add the well-drained the mussels at the last minute, just
pasta along with the parsley and toss before you’re ready to cook them.
together well. Serve immediately.
PER SERVING 497kcals, 13.6g fat • 160ml dry white wine YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
(2g saturated), 25.9g protein, • 1.6kg British mussels, scrubbed, • Food processor
65.1g carbs (3.6g sugars), 0.5g salt, beards/threads removed – see
5.3g fibre p38 (discard any that don’t close 1 To make the skordalia, cut the
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE It’s got to be when tapped on the work surface) potatoes into chunks and put in a
a bright, zesty Italian soave or gavi. • 15-20g fresh dill, chopped pan of cold salted water (see Rick’s
tips). Bring to the boil, turn down the
Mussels skordalia FOR THE SKORDALIA heat and leave to simmer until very
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, • 135g floury potatoes (such soft (about 15 minutes), then drain.
SIMMERING TIME 15 MIN as maris piper) 2 Put the garlic in a food processor
• 3 garlic cloves, peeled with the salt, almonds and drained
A made-in-heaven combo. • ½ tsp fine sea salt potatoes, then whizz until smooth.
Hot mussels with a Greek • 30g blanched almonds With the motor running on a medium
potato, olive oil and garlic • 100ml olive oil speed, add the oil very slowly until
sauce called skordalia. • Juice ½ lemon the mixture forms an emulsion. If
you add the oil too quickly it might
split. With the motor still running,
add the lemon juice and a little water
TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT if necessary to get the right
If you’ve grown to love shellfish such as mussels, scallops and consistency – it should be like
so on, branch out and try some more unusual species… mayonnaise (see Make Ahead).
3 Heat the wine in a large pan with
l RAZOR CLAMS in the UK are usually from Scotland, and they’re a tight-fitting lid over a medium heat
so called because the shell looks like an old cut-throat razor until just boiling. Tip in the mussels
l WINKLES are tiny little sea snails, which I still think are worth (see Rick’s tips), cover the pan with
the effort extracting with a long pin – a winkle-picker the lid and cook for 3-4 minutes,
l WHELKS These are much larger sea snails. Some people find the shaking the pan every now and then,
texture a bit off-putting so my advice is to go for smaller ones; those until the mussels have opened
from Folkestone are particularly good. (discard any that don’t open). Stir in
the skordalia to coat the mussels,
And don’t forgetÉ the delicious little brown then stir in most of the chopped dill.
shrimps from Morecambe Bay in the northwest, Serve the mussels right away
the small harbour prawns from, for example, scattered with the remaining dill.
Falmouth Bay in Cornwall and The Wash in PER SERVING 374kcals, 24.9g fat
Norfolk. Boil them in plenty of well-salted (3.4g saturated), 22.8g protein,
water and peel leisurely, accompanied 7.1g carbs (0.9g sugars), 1.3g salt,
with crusty bread, a bowl of good 0.8g fibre
mayonnaise and some friends. WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A crisp
white such as Greek assyrtiko
is spot on, or a lemony French
picpoul is nearly as good.

NEXT
MONTH Rick Stein’s restaurants are
The on-trend celebrating A Summer of Shellfish
guide to pickling throughout August. For more
and fermenting information, visit rickstein.com

40 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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 WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Sweetcorn is at its best from
now until late September.
Plump, firm kernels are a
sure sign of freshness and
if the cobs are still in their
creamy green husks, even
better. Avoid any cobs that
have dark spots, blemishes
or shrivelled kernels – they
may have been poorly stored
or are past their best. Store
in a cool, dry place and eat
within a few days.

STAR OF THE SEASON

Sweetcorn Bright, sunshine yellow corn sings out

for summer. Whether it’s cooked in its husk,
lightly charred, then eaten messily, dripping
with butter, or with the kernels sliced from
the cob and sprinkled over salads to add fresh, sweet
burst of flavour, this versatile veg takes me straight
back to childhood. I’ve spiced things up here with a
charred salsa – the perfect match for build-your-own
tacos. Or for a moreish sweet-and-savoury twist for hot
cobs, I’ve spiked my butter with crispy pancetta and
earthy rosemary. SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR

PHOTOGRAPHS MIKE ENGLISH FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH STYLING WEI TANG

42 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 what’s good now.

Chicken and charred 2 When the barbecue coals are 3 Warm the tortillas on the barbecue
corn tacos glowing white or the griddle pan is or in the griddle pan for 1-2 minutes.
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN hot, peel back the husks from the Top with avocado, chicken (or see
corn, cut off or tie back with string, Next Time), spring onions, tomatoes,
The corn salsa can be made then brush each cob with some charred corn, a spoonful of dressing
MAKE up to 48 hours ahead and chipotle and lime mixture. Cook, and a few coriander leaves. Serve
AHEAD
kept in a sealed container turning and basting with the rest of with the remaining limes, cut into
in the fridge. Bring back to room the chipotle and lime mixture, until wedges, for squeezing.
temperature before serving. beginning to char on all sides PER SERVING 586kcals, 27.5g fat
Substitute 150g ready- (10-15 minutes). Once cool enough (3.7g saturated), 30.8g protein,
NEXT cooked white crabmeat for to handle, hold each cob vertically 52.1g carbs (5.7g sugars), 0.9g salt,
TIME
the chicken. on a secure chopping board and 3.6g fibre
carefully slice down the sides with WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A juicy, ripe
• 4 tbsp olive oil a sharp knife to remove the kernels. white such as Chilean chardonnay. →
• ¼ tsp sweet smoked paprika
• 1 tbsp chipotle sauce (we used
Tabasco chipotle sauce)
• 3 limes
• 3 tbsp good quality mayonnaise
• 2 sweetcorn cobs in their husks
• 8 small or 4 large, soft corn
tortillas
• 2 ripe avocados, sliced
• 2 cooked free-range chicken
breasts, sliced (see Next Time)
• 4 spring onions, sliced
• 150g cherry tomatoes,
halved
• Handful fresh coriander
leaves

1 Light a barbecue or heat

a griddle pan to high. In
a small bowl, mix the oil,
paprika, chipotle sauce and
the finely grated zest and
juice of 1½ limes. Transfer
2 tbsp to a separate bowl
and mix with the mayo
to make a dressing.
Set aside.
what’s good now.

Sweetcorn with pancetta, NEXT

rosemary and garlic butter MONTH
Sensational
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN,
recipes for figs
PLUS CHILLING

The butter will keep, well

MAKE wrapped, for up to 48 hours
AHEAD
in the fridge or up to
1 month in the freezer.

• 6 pancetta slices, finely chopped

• 2 fresh rosemary sprigs, leaves
stripped and chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 100g unsalted butter, softened
• Vegetable oil to rub

1 Cook the pancetta in a frying pan

over a high heat for 1 minute on
each side until beginning to crisp.
Add the rosemary and garlic and
cook for 2 minutes until fragrant
and the pancetta is very crisp.
Remove from the heat and set aside
to cool for 10 minutes.
2 Put the butter in a bowl, add the
cooled pancetta mix and stir to
combine. Chill for 20 minutes.
Once firm enough to handle,
spoon onto a sheet of cling
film and roll up into a long
cylinder, twisting the
ends tightly. Wrap in
more cling film and
chill until firm (see
Make Ahead).
3 Light a barbecue
or heat a griddle pan.
When the coals are
glowing white or the
pan is hot, peel back the
husks from the corn and
cut off or tie back with
string. Rub the corn cobs
all over with the oil, then
grill for 8-10 minutes,
turning, until charred and
tender. Spread with the
flavoured butter and
eat straightaway.
PER SERVING 240kcals, 20.3g fat
(10g saturated), 5.4g protein,
8g carbs (2g sugars), 0.5g salt,
2.1g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A sunny
white from hot Sicily has the
right balance – try a fiano.

44 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 what’s good now.

Gill Meller
A COOK’S
YEAR
During his 11 years at River Cottage, our
resident columnist has made an art of
knowing when seasonal food is at its peak –
and how to show it off to its best advantage.
This month Gill turns his attention to
rabbit, an under-appreciated, sustainable
meat that’s at its best right now

RECIPE, FOOD STYLING AND STYLING GILL MELLER PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 45
 I can’t understand why we don’t eat more rabbit. It’s one of the
best-tasting, most sustainable meats around. Compare the life a wild
rabbit has led to that of an intensively farmed chicken and ask yourself
which is preferable. The answer is clear, but still we tend to look away.
Perhaps we can’t help but think of rabbits in an emotional way –
which isn’t a bad thing; we should think of all life in an emotional way.
But we must also be realistic. Industrial animal farming is wrecking our environment
and it’s brutally unnatural. Wild rabbits live a natural existence. They’re abundant
and as versatile as chicken – the only culinary difference is that rabbits taste better.
Years ago, I made a load of rabbit burgers for an episode of the River Cottage
television series. Hugh and I took a stall at the local farmers’ market with a sign saying
‘bunny burgers’. I think we even did rabbit satay. They were so delicious that people
were coming back for more. The smells coming off the grill were incredible. People
were eating rabbit and loving it, which was what we hoped would happen.
For those who might like to give rabbit a try, a burger isn’t a bad way to start. This
is my version of that sensational bunny burger Hugh and I sold all those years ago.

Rabbit burgers with watercress
mayonnaise, blue cheese and
slow-roast tomatoes
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, PLUS CHILLING,
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR
Your local butcher should sell wild
GILL’S rabbit. If he doesn’t, first shame him,
TIP
then ask if he might find some. He’ll
skin them and portion them for you (or for this
recipe, ask him to mince it, along with the pork).
Buy several rabbits if you’re planning a few
barbecues, then freeze and use as needed.
Make the burgers and bake the
MAKE tomatoes 1-2 days in advance, then
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 50g fresh white breadcrumbs
• Good pinch chilli flakes (optional)
• 2 tsp fine sea salt
1 Heat the oven to 150°C/130°C fan/gas 2. Put
all the burger ingredients in a large bowl with
plenty of black pepper and mix with your hands
for 1-2 minutes. This will help them bind and
give a good texture. Shape into 8 equal patties,
no more than 2cm thick, then wrap in cling film
and chill until ready to cook (see Make Ahead).
2 Meanwhile, halve the tomatoes and put them
cut-side up on a baking sheet. Season with salt
5 MORE IDEAS FOR RABBIT
• Rabbit ragù is my favourite
rabbit recipe, and it’s in my
cookbook Gather (Quadrille £25).
I cook it with bacon and herbs
until it’s falling-apart tender, then
serve with pappardelle pasta and
shavings of good parmesan.
• A rabbit terrine is a thing of
beauty. I make one with carrots,
mustard and white wine.
• Slow-cook rabbit with cider,
leeks and cream for a wonderful
alternative to darker stews.

AHEAD
cover and chill (separately) until ready
to cook. Warm the tomatoes before serving.
• 8 medium tomatoes
• Olive oil for drizzling and frying
• Bunch fresh watercress
• 6 tbsp good quality mayonnaise
(homemade or see p112)
• 250g soft blue cheese (we used
gorgonzola dolce)
• 8 soft burger buns, halved
FOR THE BURGERS
• 700-800g rabbit meat, minced (see Gill’s tip)
• 300g fatty pork belly, minced (see Gill’s tip)
• ½ small bunch fresh parsley, leaves picked
and finely chopped
• ½ small bunch fresh thyme, leaves picked
and finely chopped
and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Roast for
1 hour (or longer for a more intense flavour).
3 Take half the watercress and, discarding any
really thick stalks, chop finely with a knife,
then mix with the mayonnaise in a small bowl.
4 Cook the burgers on a barbecue or in
a large, lightly oiled, heavy-based frying pan
for 4-5 minutes on each side. When they're
almost ready, crumble the blue cheese onto
the burgers (while still on the heat) and
leave to melt for a minute or so.
5 To serve, put a handful of fresh watercress
in each bun, hold in place with a cooked rabbit
burger, add a spoonful of watercress mayo and
finish with 2 slow-roast tomato halves.
PER SERVING 720kcals, 39.9g fat
(14.5g saturated), 43.4g protein, 45.1g carbs
(5g sugars), 3.2g salt, 3.1g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A soft, juicy beaujolais
works here, especially a fleurie or morgon.
RABBIT IMAGE FROM RIVER COTTAGE A TO Z (BLOOMSBURY £40), AVAILABLE NOW. PHOTOGRAPHY © SIMON WHEELER
• Rabbit satay is exceptional.
Marinate and grill rabbit chunks
on skewers, as you would chicken.
• Gently poach portions of rabbit,
chill, coat in breadcrumbs, then
deep-fry until crisp. Delicious
with a good aïoli for dipping and
a cold beer for drinking.
READER
FANCY MEETING GILL IN
OFFER REAL LIFE? Turn to p115
and find out how you can
be part of an unmissable, reader-
exclusive day out at River Cottage
in Devon, with Gill and delicious.
editor Karen Barnes. The day will
include foraging, baking bread,
and cooking and sharing a three-
course feast – as well as a chance
to chat to Gill and Karen.

RABBIT LOVES… Fat, as it’s naturally quite a lean meat. You can pair it with bacon, pancetta, cream,
butter or olive oil • Spice: rabbit is great in curries and chillies • Wine, beer and cider (but then, who doesn’t?)

46 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
what’s good now.

NEXT
MONTH
Gill gets cracking
with lobster
ZOE ADJONYOH
Food writer
ZOE’S EAST
in residence
No 8
AFRICAN
ADVENTURE
Our writer in residence this
month and next is the uber-
talented Zoe Adjonyoh, chef,
restaurateur, food writer
and all-round champion of
African cuisine. Earlier this
year, she set off to explore
Kenya, its food history,
ingredients, influences and
cooking methods. Inspired
and enthused, she shows
just how do-able a colourful
Kenyan adventure is – in
your own kitchen
 the residency.

ZOE’S KENYAN
FEAST FOR 4-6
HUNGRY PEOPLE
Pan-fried red snapper served
with irio mukimo (mashed
potatoes with pumpkin
leaves and corn) and
tomato coconut sauce

Nyama choma
(roasted short ribs)
served with
sukuma wiki
(kale stew)
and kachumbari
(tomato salsa)

PHOTOGRAPHS MIKE ENGLISH

FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL
STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 49
 I’m a champion of Africa’s culinary
diversity and I wanted to explore the food
of Kenya first hand. I was fortunate enough to be
guided by two Kenyan food experts – blogger and
development chef Sheena Amario (of sheenas
kitchen.com) and blogger and brand consultant
Kaluhi Adagala (from kaluhiskitchen.com).
What I discovered on my trip is that Kenyan
food is so much more than the Indian-influenced
Swahili style of cooking I was familiar with in the
UK. What surprised me most was its simplicity,
breadth of ingredients and cooking methods.
Kenya’s landscape spans farmland, lakes and the
Indian Ocean coast, each delivering a wealth of
fresh vegetables, fruit, fish and seafood, with beef
and goat the most used meats. Diet is very much
influenced by the original tribe of each household.
During our trip Sheena took me to downtown
Nairobi’s Ngara market, where we shopped in
preparation to cook together. I was overwhelmed
by the variety of fresh, relatively cheap and
easy-to-use ingredients, from European staples
such as potatoes, carrots, kale, spinach, cabbage
Nyama choma
and tomatoes, to Indian herbs and spices such as (roasted
fenugreek and cumin. There was also an short ribs), p52
abundance of tropical fruit: mangoes, bananas,
oranges, pineapples, papaya – and lots of avocado.
There’s a strong colonial influence on Kenyan
food, which comes in large part from the mass
migration of Gujarati people, brought by the
British to build railroads, but there are vestiges of
British, Persian, Portuguese and Chinese influence
in dishes such as chicken tikka, pilaf and curry. In
the mid 15th century the Portuguese introduced
foods from Brazil such as maize, bananas,
pineapple, chillies, capsicums, sweet potatoes
and cassava, which have since became staples,
as well as oranges, lemons and limes from China.
It was interesting to ask the question, “What
is traditional (and that awful word ‘authentic’)
Kenyan cuisine?” Because Kenya has been
colonised so many times, it’s tricky to separate
inherently Kenyan food from its adopted
ingredients. Kaluhi works with indigenous flavours
and ingredients, re-imagining and updating
traditional dishes – an approach I share.
These recipes are inspired by the food I cooked
with Sheena and touch on some of the more
traditional food I ate with Kaluhi, as we munched
around Nairobi’s dining spots. I hope you get
a flavour of Kenya’s food culture and
history, and see how accessible it is to
make at home in the UK. Happy cooking.

50 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 the residency.

FROM TOP
Pan-fried red snapper
(p52) – great with
tomato coconut sauce
and irio mukimo
(mashed potatoes with
pumpkin leaves and
corn), p54
 Nyama choma
(roasted short ribs)
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 2-2½ HOURS
Nyama choma means grilled
or roasted meat; it’s probably
Kenya’s national dish. It’s
usually cooked over an open
fire and served with sukuma
wiki (kale stew) and kachumbari
(tomato salsa), both of which
I’ve included here, or
a polenta-like dish called
ugali. It’s the perfect
barbecue food.
Cook the ribs to
MAKE the end of step 1
AHEAD
up to 2 days ahead.
Cover and keep in the fridge.
If you don’t want to grill or
ZOE’S barbecue the meat, return
TIPS
it to the oven in step 2,
uncovered, for 1 hour 20 minutes,
basting frequently.
• 2kg British beef or goat short ribs
• A few rosemary sprigs
• 2 tbsp olive oil
1 Heat the oven to 160°C/140°C
fan/gas 3. Put the ribs in a large
roasting tray, season with salt
and pepper, then brush with a
rosemary sprig dipped in olive
oil. Add a mugful of water,
cover the tin tightly with
2 sheets of foil and roast for
2-2½ hours or until tender.
The meat should pull apart
easily. If it’s not quite ready,
return it to the oven and check
after 30 minutes or so.
2 Once the meat is tender,
remove from the oven (reserve
any juices for basting) and
heat your grill or barbecue to
medium-high. Grill the ribs for
20-25 minutes, basting with oil
and cooking juices as you go,
until golden brown, tender
and juicy.
PER SERVING 303kcals, 20.1g
fat (6.4g saturated), 30.4g
protein, no carbs, 0.2g salt,
no fibre
52 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Sukuma wiki
(kale stew)
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
A great little side dish for
almost any meal. This is called
a stew but is more like sautéed
greens. Its name means either
‘to stretch the week’ as in eke
out the meal for a week or, as
another Kenyan told me, it
means to ‘feed the weak’. Either
way it reflects the notion of
sustenance – and with all that
iron, it makes sense. Again,
simplicity itself.
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 3 ripe tomatoes (such as plum or
beef), roughly chopped
• 200g kale, tough stalks removed
and leaves roughly chopped
1 Heat the oil in a non-stick pan and
cook the onion gently until softened
and translucent. Add the tomatoes
and cook for a few minutes until
starting to soften, then turn up the
heat, stir in the kale with a pinch of
salt and cook for 1-2 minutes more.
2 Add 115ml water, then simmer on
a medium-low heat for 8 minutes
until the kale is tender. Season to
taste and serve warm.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 65kcals,
4.3g fat (0.3g saturated), 1.6g
protein, 3.8g carbs (3.3g sugars),
trace salt, 2.4g fibre
Kachumbari
(tomato salsa)
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN
This is a quick and super-
easy salsa to serve alongside the
main meal. I love that seemingly
every food culture I stumble
upon has its own salsa!
MAKE Complete to the end of
AHEAD step 2 up to 4 hours ahead.
• 2 medium red onions, finely
chopped
• 6 large salad tomatoes, chopped
(seeds and stalks removed)
• 3 carrots, grated
• Juice 2 large or 3 medium lemons
(or use 4-5 limes if you prefer)
• 2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander
• 1 green chilli, sliced, to garnish
(optional)
1 Soak the chopped onions in
salted water to let them pickle
slightly for a few minutes, then
drain well (see Make Ahead).
2 Tip the chopped tomatoes onto
a serving platter or bowl and
sprinkle with the onions and carrots.
Squeeze over the lemon juice and
season with salt to taste (be mindful
here of the salted onions). Chill until
needed (see Make Ahead).
3 When ready to serve, sprinkle
with the chopped coriander and
chilli, if using, and serve cold.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 60kcals,
0.4g fat (0.1g saturated), 1.4g
protein, 10.6g carbs (9.5g sugars),
0.1g salt, 4.2g fibre
Pan-fried red snapper
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
You often hear chefs say
that good food is about great
ingredients, and what we
Africans are good at is letting
the ingredients sing without too
much fuss. This recipe is a prime
example: good quality fresh fish,
fried with little else going on –
so simple and so tasty.
Grains of paradise is
KNOW- widely used in North
HOW
and West African cuisine.
A complex spice, it has notes of
allspice, clove, coconut and
cardamom. Available from
steenbergs.co.uk (£5.50 for 60g).
• 6 x 175g fillets sustainable fresh
red snapper (or any similar
sustainable white fish that’s good
and fresh)
• 1 tbsp cayenne pepper
• 25g grains of paradise, crushed
(optional; see Know-how)
• 1 tbsp vegetable or sunflower
oil for frying
• Lemon wedges to serve →
the residency.

FROM TOP
Kachumbari
(tomato salsa),
sukuma wiki
(kale stew) and
nyama choma
(roasted short
ribs)
the residency.

1 Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper. Add the garlic and cook for another
Season with salt and pepper, then minute or so until fragrant. Stir in the
sprinkle the flesh side with the tomatoes, then simmer, covered, for
cayenne pepper and crushed grains 4-5 minutes until starting to soften.
of paradise, if using. 2 Stir in the chillies, tomato purée
SUSY ATKINS’ 2 Heat the oil in a large non-stick and stock. Simmer briskly for
WINE PICKS frying pan. Fry the fish, skin-side 2 minutes, then turn the heat down,
Punchy flavours down, over a medium-high heat, for cover with the lid and cook gently
from tomatoes,
chillies, spices 5-6 minutes until the skin is crisp for a further 5 minutes or until the
and meat and the fish almost cooked, then tomatoes are completely softened,
demand drinks turn and cook for a further 1-2 adding a little extra stock if needed.
with forceful
minutes until cooked through. 3 Stir in the peppers and coconut
aromas and ripe
fruit. Best white 3 Transfer the fish to a serving plate milk and simmer for a further 8-10
wine for the and add the lemon wedges for minutes (see Make Ahead). Season
snapper, tomato squeezing over. Serve with the to taste, stir in the coriander and
dishes and kale
stew is lip- tomato sauce and vivid green mash serve alongside the grilled fish.
smacking New (below and right). PER SERVING (FOR 6) 126kcals, 7.9g
Zealand PER SERVING 137kcals, 3.7g fat fat (5.1g saturated), 2.8g protein,
sauvignon blanc, (0.6g saturated), 25.1g protein, 9.2g carbs (6.5g sugars), 0.1g salt, • 1kg white potatoes, peeled and
and top red for
the ribs is an 0.3g carbs (no sugars), 0.2g salt, 3.6g fibre quartered
Aussie cabernet- 1.1g fibre • 1 corn on the cob (use white
shiraz or South Irio mukimo (mashed corn if you can find it), or 100g
African pinotage.
A hoppy IPA ale
Tomato coconut sauce potatoes with pumpkin tinned or defrosted frozen corn
is another good SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, leaves and corn) (see food team’s tips)
draught for the SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, • 200g fresh peas, podded, or use
kale (and the SIMMERING TIME 25 MIN frozen peas, defrosted (see food
mash), as is
a ginger beer. This is insanely delicious team’s tips)
and so simple to make. It tastes Sheena tells me that this dish • 50g butter
brilliant with the fish and hails from the Kikuyu tribe, of
mashed potatoes. which her family are members. 1 Bring 4 pans of water to the
The Kikuyu and Gikuyu grow boil and simmer all 4 vegetables
Make the sauce without the their own corn, beans, potatoes, separately until tender. The
MAKE coriander up to 24 hours in and greens. They mash all these pumpkin leaves will take 20-25
AHEAD
advance, cool, then cover vegetables together to make irio. minutes (10-15 if using spinach), the
and chill. Return to a simmer and We sometimes roll the irio into potatoes 15-20 minutes, the corn
stir through the coriander to serve. balls and dip into meat or 10-15 minutes, and the peas 5-10
vegetable stews, but it can be minutes. Drain each vegetable well.
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil served as a side dish, too. Carefully slice the kernels from the
• 1 medium red onion, finely corn cobs with a sharp knife.
chopped For additional flavour 2 Mash the potatoes with the butter
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed ZOE’S you can fry some red and some salt and pepper until
TIPS
• 4 large beef or plum tomatoes, onions in a little butter creamy and smooth. (Mashing while
roughly chopped until lightly caramelised and they’re still steaming will help keep
• 2 green bird’s eye chillies, gently stir these into the mash. that fluffiness and make it easier to
finely chopped Add a pinch of baking soda to the combine the other ingredients later.)
• 1 tsp tomato purée pumpkin leaves when cooking to 3 Put the pumpkin (or spinach)
• 100ml good quality vegetable speed up the cooking time leaves in a blender or food
stock Use spinach if you can’t processor with about 75ml water
FOOD
• 2 green peppers, chopped TEAM’S get pumpkin leaves, but and blend until smooth. Stir into
TIPS
• 200ml coconut milk use the older, larger leaves, the potatoes and mash again until
• 2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh which have more flavour. If using evenly coloured. Gently mix in
NEXT coriander tinned or frozen corn or peas, omit the cooked corn and peas, then
MONTH the first cooking step. taste and season. Keep warm until
In part two of 1 In a saucepan (one with a lid), heat ready to serve.
her residency,
the oil over a medium heat. Add • 300g malenge (pumpkin leaves), PER SERVING 271kcals, 8.6g fat (4.7g
Zoe explains
how she fell in the onions and fry for a few minutes tough stalks removed and washed saturated), 7.9g protein, 36.7g carbs
love with food over a low-medium heat until soft. (see food team’s tips) (3.1g sugars), 0.2g salt, 7.5g fibre

54 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
AVAILABLE NATIONWIDE IN WAITROSE, MAJESTIC, 31DOVER.COM AND UK DUTY FREE
 TASTES LIKE HOME
“Food inspiration passed
from my war-hero grandad
to my mum, then to me”
delicious. reader Adam Ringrose moved to Canada when he was young, a life-changing
moment full of new experiences – not to mention flavours. His love of food comes from
his mother, whose baking was legendary, although his grandad had a big role to play too
I was born in Liverpool in 1978.
My mum’s dad was a World War II
hero who spent four years as a
Japanese prisoner of war, enduring
hardships that today would be
unimaginable. One of his duties in
the camp was to cook for his fellow
prisoners – pots of rice and meat
or whatever animals they could get their hands on…
His experience as a POW meant he always had
a passion for food, and my mum Linda grew up in a
house where a respect for mealtimes was paramount.
In 1981 my Dad landed a job in Alberta, Canada,
so Mum, Dad, my brother Paul and I moved to
Edson, a rural cowboy town with no English people,
let alone Scousers. Over the years Mum introduced
many people to the joys of a Sunday roast and her
speciality, Lancashire hotpot. In return we were
introduced to dishes such as chicken pot-pie and
butter tarts – a Canadian institution. Eating one of
these takes me back to the 1980s, when their aroma
would greet me when I came home from school.
Mum was a great baker and adopted this recipe as
her own. She passed away in 1994, but she was and
is my food inspiration. I owe my passion to her.
Adam (left),
his mum
Linda, brother
Paul and his
grandparents
Sultana butter tarts
MAKES 15. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN,
OVEN TIME 15 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Make the pastry, wrap well
MAKE in cling film and chill for up
AHEAD
to 2 days. The baked tarts
will keep somewhere cool for up to
3 days in an airtight tin. Or freeze in
freezer bags for up to 3 months.
You can leave the vinegar out
ADAM’S of the pastry but it won’t be
TIP
as tender and flaky.
• 225g Stork Original Baking Block
• 280g plain flour, plus extra to dust
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 tsp white wine vinegar
• 1 medium free-range egg
• 2-3 tsp ice-cold water
FOR THE FILLING
• 85g sultanas
• 2 tbsp rum, whisky, brandy or
cognac (optional) or hot water
• 170g golden syrup
• 85g soft brown sugar
• 2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
• 1 medium free-range egg
• 1 tbsp vanilla extract
• 50g pecan halves
YOU’LL ALSO NEED...
• 8-10cm cookie cutter; 2 x 12-hole
non-stick muffin tins
1 Cut the Stork into cubes and rub
into the flour and salt in a large bowl
until the mixture forms crumbs
the size of frozen peas.
2 In a separate bowl, mix the vinegar,
egg (see Adam’s tip) and 2 tsp of the
cold water. Add to the flour mix, then
bring together to form a soft, slightly
sticky dough. You may need to add
extra ice-cold water – if so add just
½ tsp at a time. (Don’t over-work the
dough or use too much water.)
3 Flatten the pastry into a disc,
wrap in cling film and chill in the
fridge for 1-2 hours (see Make
Ahead) or freeze for 30 minutes.
4 Roll out the dough on a lightly
floured surface to the thickness of
a £1 coin. Use a floured cutter to cut
15 circles. Gently press the circles
into the tins and chill for 30 minutes.
FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: WEI TANG
5 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Meanwhile make the filling.
Put the sultanas in a medium
heatproof bowl with 2 tbsp alcohol
or hot water, then microwave for
15 seconds and allow to cool slightly.
Add the golden syrup, sugar, melted
butter, egg and vanilla, then mix
well. Spoon into the pastry cases to
about two-thirds full (don’t overfill
or they’ll overflow when baking),
then top each with 1-2 pecan halves.
6 Bake for 15 minutes or until deep
golden and bubbling. Cool in the tins
for 10 minutes, then remove and
cool on a wire rack (see Make Ahead).
PER TART 298kcals, 16.5g fat (5.5g
saturated), 3.5g protein, 32.3g carbs
(18g sugars), 0.7g salt, 1.1g fibre
 food memories.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 57
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 Tear and share
feta and herb
bread, p64

THE POSH PICNIC

WHEN THE SUN IS

blazing
We’ve all packed a few dodgy chicken drumsticks and curled sarnies in our time, but summer
days are moments to relish and do it proper-like, with a feast spread out on a rug in a park,
maybe for an open-air concert or a spot of Shakespeare. Try these sharing recipes for size
RECIPES, FOOD STYLING AND STYLING LOUISE PICKFORD PHOTOGRAPHS IAN WALLACE
 what’s good now.

THE MENU
To start
Marinated goat’s cheese with
garden vegetables
Tear and share feta & herb bread

The main course
Persian chicken with spiced yogurt
Barley, aubergine & pomegranate salad
Roasted red peppers with basil

For pud
Chocolate swirl meringues,
berries and white chocolate sauce

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 61

Your goat’s cheese
starter for
10 out of 10
THE RECIPES
Marinated goat’s cheese
with garden vegetables
SERVES 6. HANDS ON TIME 20 MIN,
PLUS 1-3 DAYS MARINATING
Make the goat’s cheese
MAKE balls at least 1 day ahead
AHEAD
(and up to 3 days) so the
flavours from the oil have time to
infuse. Store in a cool place – or
in the fridge if it’s hot.
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 1 tsp coriander seeds
• 400ml extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 garlic clove, halved
• 2 small red chillies, bruised
in a pestle and mortar
• 2 fresh rosemary sprigs, bruised
in a pestle and mortar
• 2 fresh bay leaves, torn
• 400g soft goat’s cheese
(without rind; fridge-cold)
• Selection of summer veg/salad
such as baby carrots, radishes,
cherry tomatoes and little gem
lettuce leaves to serve
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 1 litre Kilner jar or storage box
62 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
1 Put the fennel and coriander
seeds in a heavy-based pan, then
heat gently until fragrant and
beginning to pop. Add the oil, garlic,
chillies, rosemary and bay, then
warm gently to infuse. Leave to cool.
Remove the garlic and rosemary.
2 Use your hands to roll the cheese
into 18 small balls and put in the jar
or container. Pour the oil over the
top and store in a cool place (see
Make Ahead). Serve the goat’s
cheese balls with summer veg/
salads and a little oil drizzled over.
PER SERVING 300kcals, 24.9g fat
(13.1g saturated), 14.6g protein,
3.7g carbs (3.6g sugars), 1g salt,
1.7g fibre
Roasted red peppers
with basil
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 5 MIN,
OVEN TIME 45 MIN
Roast the peppers up to a
MAKE day ahead and keep with
AHEAD
their juices in an airtight
container in the fridge. Scatter
with the basil leaves to serve.
• 3 large red peppers
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 6 cherry tomatoes, halved
• 3 fresh thyme sprigs, leaves only
• 2 tbsp capers, drained and rinsed
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
• Handful fresh basil leaves
1 Heat the oven to 220°C/ 200°C fan/
gas 7 and line a roasting tin with
non-stick baking paper. Cut each
pepper in half lengthways through
the stalk, then scoop out and
discard the seeds and membrane.
Put the peppers cut-side up in the
prepared baking tray and divide
the garlic, tomatoes, thyme leaves
and capers between them. Drizzle
with oil, then season with salt and
pepper and roast for 30 minutes.
2 Add a drizzle of balsamic vinegar
to each pepper and roast for a
further 10-15 minutes until
caramelised and tender. Remove
from the oven and cool before
packing up for your picnic with the
pan juices spooned over (see Make
Ahead). Or serve while still warm,
scattered with fresh basil.
PER SERVING 84kcals, 5.8g fat (0.9g
saturated), 1g protein, 5.7g carbs
(5.2g sugars), no salt, 2.2g fibre
Barley, aubergine and
pomegranate salad
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN,
SIMMERING TIME 40 MIN
Make the salad and dressing
MAKE up to the end of step 4 a day
AHEAD
ahead and store in separate
airtight containers in the fridge.
• 200g pearl barley
• 2-3 tbsp olive oil
• 1-2 aubergines (about 500g),
thickly sliced
• 250g cherry tomatoes, halved
• ½ red onion, thinly sliced
• 80g pomegranate seeds
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tsp pomegranate molasses
• 2 tbsp each fresh mint, parsley
and coriander leaves, roughly
chopped
• Handful rocket leaves
1 Cook the pearl barley according
to the packet instructions (about
40 minutes). Drain, refresh under
cold water to cool and drain well.
Put in a mixing bowl.
2 Heat a griddle or frying pan over
a high heat. Put the olive oil in a
small bowl and season with salt and
pepper, then brush all over the
aubergine slices. Cook for 3-4
minutes on each side until charred
and tender. Set aside until cool, then
roughly chop. Add to the pearl
barley with the tomatoes, red onion
and half the pomegranate seeds.
3 Put the remaining pomegranate
seeds in a small sieve. Using a
wooden spoon, press out all the
juice from the seeds into a small
bowl. Discard the seeds in the sieve,
then whisk in the extra-virgin olive
oil, pomegranate molasses and a
little salt and pepper to taste.
4 Just before serving, stir in the
herbs and dressing, then serve
scattered with the rocket leaves. →
 what’s good now.

PACK-AND-GO TIPS FOR

A SUCCESSFUL PICNIC
TICK THE RIGHT BOX We’ve suggested
you use airtight containers in our Make Ahead
tips. This isn’t just to keep things at their best
but also to stop leaks and spillages ruining
your picnic basket or cool bag.

NO STICKY FINGERS Don’t forget to

pack napkins and hand wipes: both essential.

NO BITES OR STINGS Pack citronella

candles (and matches) and insect repellent to
keep the bugs at bay.

NO BREAKAGES Invest in eco-friendly

Roasted red
peppers melamine plates and reusuable wine glass-
with basil style plastic glasses. Apart from anything else,
drinking chilled fizz or rosé out of a flimsy
white plastic cup just doesn’t cut it. Our top
recommendation for a one-stop shop is John
Lewis, which has baskets, cool bags and
blankets galore, plus super-pretty melamine
plates from Royal Doulton, Leon and Orla Kiely.
Barley, For mock glassware, there’s a Plastic Poolside
aubergine and
pomegranate Bubble jug, £14, which looks just like blue
salad glass filled with air bubbles, plus plastic wine
glasses (from £4) that are hard to distinguish,
looks-wise, from the real thing. See p12 for
more of editor Karen’s picnic kit must-haves.

ICE ON THE MOVE If you want to serve

ice in your drinks, put the cubes in a Thermos
flask to stop them melting or in an airtight
container in a cool box. It’s also a good idea to
freeze bottles of water and cartons of drinks
before you go, which can double up as ice
blocks on the way to your destination.

AND DON’T FORGET…

• Bin liners to take away rubbish.
• A portable speaker – if music’s your thing.
• Twinkly fairy lights – for gatherings that roll
on into the evening.
• A large golf umbrella or two – in case of
showers or (joy) too much sunshine.
• A sharp knife for cutting and slicing (Kuhn
Rikon makes a variety of knives that come with
a safety sleeve; kuhnrikon.co.uk).
SUSY ATKINS’ PER SERVING 254kcals, 10.4g fat
WINE PICKS (1.5g saturated), 4.8g protein,
Whites with crisp
33.2g carbs (5.7g sugars), trace salt,
acidity such as
sauvignon blancs 3.9g fibre
and dry rieslings
work well on Tear and share feta
picnics as they
taste refreshing. and herb bread
They’ll match the SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN
goat’s cheese, TIME 40-50 MIN, PLUS RISING AND PROVING
feta bread and
red peppers too.
An off-dry rosé This wonderful bread will
MAKE
makes a juicy AHEAD keep for a day in an airtight
match for the container or will freeze,
barley salad and
for the richer
well-wrapped, for up to 1 month.
chicken, make it Defrost at room temperature.
a peachy Swap parsley and chives for
FOOD
viognier. TEAM’S woody herbs such as
TIPS
rosemary and thyme.
Wrapping the bread in a clean tea
towel to cool (step 5) softens the
crust, making it easier to pull apart.
• 500g strong white bread flour,
plus extra for dusting
• 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast
• 2 tsp sea salt, plus extra to top
• 1 tsp caster sugar
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 275-300ml warm water
• 100g feta, crumbled
• 30g parmesan, grated
• Large handful fresh flatleaf
parsley, finely chopped
• Handful fresh chives, finely
chopped
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Large baking sheet lined with
non-stick baking paper
1 Put the flour in a large mixing bowl
and stir in the dried yeast, salt and
sugar. Make a well in the middle and
gradually work in 3 tbsp of the oil
and enough of the warm water to
form a soft dough. Tip the dough out
onto a lightly floured surface and
knead for 8-10 minutes until smooth
and elastic. Transfer to an oiled bowl,
cover with a clean tea towel and
leave to rise in a draught-free place
for an hour or until doubled in size.
2 Meanwhile, mix the feta, parmesan
and herbs in a bowl with the rest of
the oil, then cover and chill.
3 Gently knead the dough once or
64 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
twice (this is called knocking back)
and roll out on a lightly floured
surface to make a 25cm x 35cm
rectangle. Sprinkle evenly with the
cheese and herb mixture.
4 Roll the dough up from one long
side to make a log shape. Cut into
7 thick slices, each around 5cm wide.
Arrange 6 slices, cut-side up, in a
circle on the prepared baking sheet,
roughly 3cm apart, then put the last
one in the middle and cover loosely
with cling film. Leave to rise (prove),
loosely covered with cling film, for
30-40 minutes.
5 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/
gas 4. Brush the top with the beaten
egg. Bake for 40-50 minutes until
risen, golden and cooked through.
Cover the top with foil if it starts to
brown too quickly. When ready,
transfer the tin to a wire rack for
5 minutes to cool. Remove the loaf
from the tin and wrap the bread in a
clean tea towel as it cools (see tips).
PER SERVING (FOR 8) 343kcals,
10.8g fat (3.7g saturated), 11g
protein, 49.1g carbs (1.3g sugars),
0.9g salt, 2.8g fibre
Persian chicken with
spiced yogurt
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, OVEN
TIME 45 MIN, PLUS COOLING
Roast the chicken and make
MAKE
AHEAD the yogurt up to 2 days
ahead. Store the chicken
and yogurt in separate airtight
containers in the fridge until ready
to serve or pack. Cool the chicken
completely before chilling.
• 6 free-range skin-on chicken
legs
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• 6 cardamom pods, seeds removed
and ground in a pestle and mortar
or spice grinder
• 1 tsp ground turmeric
• ½ tsp ground cumin
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 tsp clear honey
• Grated zest and juice 1 lemon
• 150ml greek yogurt
• Handful fresh parsley, roughly
chopped
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Line a large roasting tin with
non-stick baking paper. Divide the
chicken legs into drumsticks and
thighs by cutting through the joint
with a sharp knife. Put in a large
mixing bowl.
2 In a small mixing bowl, mix the
spices with the olive oil, honey,
lemon zest and juice and some salt
and pepper. Pour over the chicken
and toss well to coat all over.
3 Put the chicken in the prepared
roasting tin and roast for 45 minutes
until golden and tender, turning
halfway through and basting the
chicken with pan juices.
4 Put the chicken on a board (or
platter if serving straightaway) to
cool. Put 2 tablespoons of the pan
juices in a bowl with the yogurt, then
mix well and season to taste. To
serve, drizzle the yogurt over the
chicken and scatter with parsley.
PER SERVING 207kcals, 11.6g fat
(3.7g saturated), 23g protein, 2.5g
carbs (2.5g sugars), 0.3g salt,
0.5g fibre
Chocolate swirl
meringues, berries and
white chocolate sauce
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS COOLING
Store the baked meringues
MAKE
AHEAD in an airtight container for
up to 1 week. Make the
custard up to 2 days ahead, cool,
then store in the fridge in an airtight
container with a piece of cling film
touching the surface.
• 40g dark chocolate, chopped
• 4 medium free-range egg whites
• 225g caster sugar
• 1 tsp white wine vinegar
• ½ tsp vanilla extract
• 300g mixed summer berries
FOR THE SAUCE
• 250ml single cream
• 2 medium free-range egg
yolks
• 2 tsp cornflour
• 1 tbsp caster sugar
• 75g white chocolate, chopped →
what’s good now.

Persian
chicken with
spiced yogurt
what’s good now.

1 Heat the oven to 150°C/130°C

fan/gas 2. Line 2 baking trays
with non-stick baking paper.
Melt the dark chocolate in a
heatproof bowl set over a pan
of simmering water, stirring
occasionally (don’t let the bowl
touch the water). Set aside.
2 Put the egg whites in a large,
clean mixing bowl and, using
an electric hand-held mixer,
whisk to stiff peaks. Gradually
whisk in the sugar a tablespoon
at a time until the mixture is
thick and glossy. Beat in the
vinegar and vanilla extract.
3 Drizzle the melted chocolate
over the egg mixture and
carefully stir once to swirl the
chocolate through without
combining it completely. Spoon
the meringue mixture onto the
prepared baking trays to make
12 meringue mounds.
4 Transfer the trays to the oven
and immediately reduce the
temperature to 140°C/ 120°C
fan/gas 1. Bake for 1 hour or
until the meringues are set and
pull away easily from the paper.
Cool on a wire cooling rack.
5 Meanwhile make the sauce:
heat the cream in a small pan
until steaming (don’t boil). In
a medium bowl, beat the egg
yolks, cornflour and sugar until
smooth, then stir in the hot
milk. Return to the pan and stir
gently over a low heat until the
mixture comes to the boil. Turn
down the heat and simmer for
2 minutes, stirring continuously,
then remove from the heat. Stir
in the white chocolate until
melted, then pour into a bowl,
Chocolate swirl cover the surface with cling
meringues,
berries and white film and leave to cool
chocolate sauce completely. Once cool, keep
in the fridge. Decant into an
airtight container to pack.
6 Serve the meringues with the
berries and a drizzle of the
white chocolate sauce.
PER SERVING 389kcals, 15.8g
fat (9g saturated), 6.5g protein,
54.4g carbs (54.3g sugars),
0.2g salt, 2g fibre

66 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 festival fever.

READY FOR
A TOP DAY OUT?
Food festival season hits its peak next month with two of the biggest, most established events:
Abergavenny in Wales and Aldeburgh on the Suffolk coast. Whether you head west or east, a
feast of fun awaits – and this year we’ll be there too, to judge the regional heats of the delicious.
Produce Awards, along with the Awards sponsors Fisher & Paykel. Be sure to come and say hello

abergavennyfoodfestival.com
ABERGAVENNY FOOD FESTIVAL,
MONMOUTHSHIRE, WALES
Food lovers from all over the world
converge on the market town for what
has grown into more than a food festival.
It’s also a forum for debate, a place of
hands-on experiences – and a rip-roaring
party. This year it’s celebrating 20 years
too. Here are some of the highlights:

«65 guest speakers «Night market

including food critic «Lively fringe festival SAT 29
Grace Dent, chefs Zoe with events showcasing & SUN 30
Adjonyoh (see p48) and the local food culture SEPTEMBER
Jack Stein (right; see «Feasts and tasting «
p14) and sensory workshops ALDEBURGH FOOD & DRINK
psychology expert «Drinks theatre with FESTIVAL, SUFFOLK
Charles Spence cocktail ideas The atmospheric Snape Maltings is the
«Friday and Saturday «Open-fire cooking venue for the biggest food festival in the
night music and dancing with DJ BBQ and co east, with big-name chefs, more than
parties at the castle «Foraging trips 100 producers offering their wares and

SAT 15 lots of family-focused food activities:

& SUN 16 «Two stages with about foraging, open-

SEPTEMBER top chefs including fire cooking, fishing
« MasterChef 2018 champ and the local wildlife
Kenny Tutt (right), «Hillfarm Family
Mexican street-food Meadow with toy
queen Thomasina Miers tractors to ride, pizza
and Michelin-starred making and more
Galton Blackiston «The best of the
«The Adnams Drinks region – showcasing
Experience led by beer the hottest young
expert Melissa Cole entrepreneurs on the
«Wild Suffolk: learn local food scene

aldeburghfoodanddrink.co.uk
 The joy of easy baking
by Mary Berry
She’s a consummate cakemaker: a banisher of soggy bottoms and a technical
whizz with bakes of all shapes and flavours. Yet Mary Berry is the first to
assure novices that baking needn’t be tricky. These recipes from her new book
demonstrate how simple it can be to produce moreishly impressive results

WITH TROPICAL FLAVOURS

Vanilla baked
cheesecake, p70

RECIPES MARY BERRY PHOTOGRAPHS GEORGIA GLYNN SMITH

FOOD STYLING LISA HARRISON AND ISLA MURRAY STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE

68 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 book of the month.

IT’S A LOVE THING

Chocolate
juliette, p70

When I ask why so many people are put off the idea of making puddings and cakes,
‘It’s such a business!’ they tell me. ‘All that creaming of butter and sugar. I never seem to
have the butter soft enough. And then the tins have to be lined and everything has to be just
so. It’s all right for you,’ they add accusingly. ‘You enjoy it!’ Well, so I do. But they are quite
wrong if they think you have to take a whole day off in order to bake successfully. Cakes,
tea breads and biscuits can all be made quickly and easily with the minimum of fuss and
trouble. There’s no need to bother with fancy tins or piping bags to produce an informal
yet professional finish to all kinds of teatime treats. Have fun with your baking and
the end results will be even more enjoyable. MARY BERRY

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 69
 THE CROWD-
PLEASER PUDDING
Vanilla baked cheesecake
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN
TIME 40 MIN, PLUS RESTING AND CHILLING
Recipes from
Fast Cakes: Easy A rich, moist cheesecake.
Bakes in Minutes
by Mary Berry
(Headline £26).
Make up to the end of step 8,
MAKE then cover and keep in the
AHEAD
WIN MARY fridge for up to 24 hours.
BERRY’S NEW Complete the recipe to serve.
BOOK!
We have FIVE
copies of this • 75g butter, plus extra
great new book for greasing
to give away. For
• 8-10 digestive biscuits, crushed
a chance of
winning a copy, (about 125g)
send an email to • 2 x 280g tubs full-fat cream cheese
info@delicious • 50g plain flour
magazine.co.uk
telling us which • 2 tsp vanilla extract
two fruits Mary • 2 large free-range eggs
has used in her • 100g caster sugar
vanilla baked • 150ml double cream
cheesecake. See
full Ts&Cs on p129 • 150ml soured cream
• 1 level tbsp icing sugar, sifted
• 1 ripe mango, peeled and
finely sliced
• 1 large passion fruit
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 20cm loose-bottomed or
springform cake tin
1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/
gas 4. Lightly grease the base
of the tin and line with non-stick
baking paper.
2 Melt the butter in a pan over a
gentle heat. Remove from the heat
and measure in the crushed
biscuits. Mix together very well.
3 Turn into the tin and press flat
over the base using a spoon.
4 Measure the cream cheese and
flour into another bowl and beat
using an electric hand mixer until
smooth. Add the vanilla, eggs, sugar
and double cream and whisk again
until well blended.
5 Pour over the crumb base
and bake in the oven for about
30 minutes, or until well risen and
just set around the edges.
6 Remove from the oven and rest
for 10 minutes to allow the top of the
cheesecake to become level and flat.
7 Return to the oven for 10 minutes
70 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
until the cheesecake is just set with
a slight wobble in the middle.
8 Loosen the edges, then leave to
cool in the tin. When cold, remove
from the tin and leave to chill in the
fridge (see Make Ahead).
9 Mix the soured cream and icing
sugar together in a small bowl, then
spread over the cold cheesecake.
Arrange the mango and seeds and
pulp of the passion fruit over the top
of the cheesecake before serving.
PER SERVING 564kcals, 42.1g fat
(25.7g saturated), 8.9g protein,
36.3g carbs (24.3g sugars), 1g salt,
2g fibre
THE NO-BAKE WINNER
Chocolate juliette
SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN,
PLUS 6 HOURS CHILLING
This chocolate loaf is rich, so
serve it in thin slices – and offer
pastry forks to your guests.
• 200g butter, cubed
• 225g Bournville chocolate,
broken into pieces
• 2 tbsp rum or brandy
• 175g Nice biscuits
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 450g (1lb) loaf tin
1 Line the loaf tin with cling film.
2 Measure the butter and chocolate
into a heatproof bowl. Put the bowl
on top of a pan of boiling water
(don’t let the water touch the bowl)
and heat gently until the mixture has
melted and is smooth and runny.
Stir in the rum or brandy.
3 Break the biscuits into 1.25cm
(½in) pieces and stir into the
chocolate mixture.
4 Pack the chocolate mixture into
the tin and smooth the top with the
back of a spoon. Leave to chill in the
fridge for about 6 hours until set.
5 Turn out onto a serving plate
and peel off the cling film. Cut into
8-10 slices to serve.
PER SERVING (FOR 10) 353kcals,
25.4g fat (15.1g saturated), 2.5g
protein, 26.3g carbs (16.9g sugars),
0.5g salt, 1.2g fibre
THE IMPRESSIVE
TRAYBAKE
Coconut meringue slices
SERVES 16. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, OVEN
TIME 35 MIN, PLUS COOLING
These delicious fingers of
sponge keep well. For a change,
sprinkle the top with finely
chopped glacé cherries.
This meringue traybake
MAKE
AHEAD will keep for up to 2 days
in an airtight container.
• 75g cold butter, cubed
• 100g caster sugar
• 2 large free-range egg yolks
• 2 tbsp whole milk
• A few drops vanilla extract
• 175g self-raising flour
FOR THE TOPPING
• 2 large free-range egg whites
• 100g caster sugar
• 50g desiccated coconut
• Flaked almonds for sprinkling
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 27.5cm x 17.5cm baking tin
1 Heat the oven to 160°C/140°C fan/
gas 3 and line the baking tin with
non-stick baking paper.
2 Cream the butter and sugar
together until soft in a mixing bowl.
Beat in the egg yolks, milk and
vanilla extract and lastly fold in the
flour – the mixture will be quite stiff.
Spread it carefully in a smooth layer
over the base of the tin.
3 Put the egg whites in a large bowl
and whisk using an electric mixer
until stiff. Add the sugar a generous
dessertspoonful at a time. Fold in
the desiccated coconut. Spread over
the cake mixture and sprinkle with
flaked almonds.
4 Bake in the oven for 35 minutes, by
which time the meringue will be firm
to the touch and a pale golden brown.
5 Leave to cool in the tin.
6 Cut into 16 slices to serve.
PER SLICE 161kcals, 7.2g fat (4.4g
saturated), 2.4g protein,
21.2g carbs (12.9g sugars), 0.2g salt,
1g fibre
 book of the month.

LAYERS OF JOY
Coconut
meringue slices

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 71
favourites.
❶
POSH SARNIE
FILLINGSWho can resist a good sandwich? We’ve
devised eight new ideas to add a whole new
dimension to your lunch or afternoon tea
1 Chorizo, rocket and
red pepper sarnies
Slice 4 cooking chorizo
sausages in half lengthways
and fry on both sides until
❷ cooked through and crisp.
Slice 1 chargrilled red pepper
(from a jar), then layer into
4 bread rolls with the chorizo,
a handful of rocket and
shavings of manchego cheese.
2 Super green rolls
Layer 1 thinly sliced ripe
avocado and 1 courgette,
peeled into ribbons, into
4 bread buns. Top each with
a few pickled jalapeños, fresh
coriander leaves, a splash of
olive oil and some seasoning.
3 Crab mayo, radish
and pea rolls
Crush 100g defrosted frozen
peas with salt and pepper and
a handful of chopped fresh
mint leaves. Mix 100g fresh
white crabmeat and 3 tbsp
❸
mayonnaise, then season with
lemon juice and black
pepper. Divide the peas
and the crab mayo
between 2 bread
rolls and top
with a little
salad cress
and sliced
radishes.
72 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
4 Italian chicken
ciabatta rolls
Flatten 4 British free-range
chicken mini fillets between
2 sheets of cling film, dust in
plain flour, dip in beaten
egg, then coat in fresh
breadcrumbs. Fry in a pan
with olive oil for 5 minutes on
each side until cooked through
and golden. Fill 4 toasted
ciabatta rolls with a fillet each,
spread with sun-dried tomato
paste, then top with 2-3
chargrilled artichokes (from
a tub) and torn mozzarella.
5 Saganaki wraps
Spread 2 tortilla wraps with
a little greek yogurt, sprinkle
with a handful of chopped
fresh dill, then divide a 150g
pack sustainable cooked
peeled prawns between the
wraps – make a pile of them
in the centres. Sprinkle with
50g crumbled feta, 100g
halved cherry tomatoes and
¼ small cucumber, sliced into
moons. Roll up and serve.
6 Better BLT
Cook 6 slices of maple-cured
bacon under a medium grill
until crisp. Put 2 sourdough
slices on the work surface
and divide 200g sliced
mixed heritage tomatoes,
1 shredded little gem lettuce,
the bacon, a dollop of aïoli
and a few fresh basil leaves
between them. Top with
another 2 sourdough slices.
7 Falafel and
aubergine pittas
Warm 2 pitta breads in the
toaster, then open up and
dollop 2-3 tbsp greek yogurt
inside. Drizzle generously
with tahini loosened with a
little lemon juice. Fill each
pitta with 3 warmed falafels
(we like Waitrose Sweet
Potato and Spinach Falafels),
slices of grilled marinated
aubergines (from a jar) and
a few baby spinach leaves.
8 Steak and posh
crisp sandwiches
Season 1 British sirloin steak
and rub with olive oil. Fry in
a hot frying pan until medium
rare (2-3 minutes each side).
WORDS: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPHS: TOBY SCOTT.
FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. STYLING: LUIS PERAL
Transfer to a board, cover
loosely with foil and rest for
5 minutes. Fry 150g sliced
mushrooms in the same pan
with plenty of butter and
black pepper. Slice the steak,
then sandwich between
4 buttered wholemeal bread
slices with the mushrooms
and a handful of crisps (black
truffle if you can get them).

CHEERS!
Susy Atkins rounds up the best buys and top summery wines
GR AB A BARGAIN
• Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
2017, Italy (£4, Tesco)
It’s not one to hang on
to, but this easy-going,
apple-fresh Italian is
a canny buy for parties.
• Wine Atlas Torrontés
2017, Mendoza,
Argentina (£4.98, Asda)
Scented with roses
and tasting of juicy
melons and peaches,
this is an off-dry wine
SPLASH OUT
• Taste the Difference
Crémant de Loire Rosé
NV, France (£11,
Sainsbury’s)
Lively fizz, made in the
champagne method in
PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
the Loire Valley. Dry, with
lip-smacking red cherry
and strawberry fruit.
• Alma Albariño 2015,
Rías Baixas, Spain
(£17.99, or £15.99 as part
of a mixed six, Majestic)
to partner spicy Thai
green curries or Chinese
sweet and sour dishes.
• El Puente Tempranillo
2017, Central Spain
(£4.75, Morrisons) Here’s
a likeable Spanish red,
reminiscent of rioja with
its bright red-berry
flavours but at a
knockdown price. One
for barbecued lamb or
a chunk of cheddar.
FRIDAY SPECIAL
• Mirabeau Côtes de
Provence 2017,
France (£10.99, down
to £7.99 until 7 August,
Waitrose) Snap up this
pale, delicate, dry and
beautifully scented
rosé on offer and sip
chilled as the perfect
August sundowner.
• Tino Pai Sauvignon
Blanc 2017, France
(£7, Spar) Well priced,
Fans of Spanish whites
will love this elegant,
pear and tangerine-
scented albariño;
lovely with cod or hake.
• The Gum Shiraz 2017,
Adelaide Hills, Australia
(£15, Marks & Spencer)
Finely balanced shiraz
from a relatively cool
region, majoring on
blackcurrants, with
a fresh finish.
drinks.
WHAT’S HOT… (OR NOT!)
Chilled reds
D
on’t be afraid to chill
red wines in summer,
but do choose light,
juicy and young reds – heavy
or oaky ones can taste oddly
chewy when chilled. Opt for a
pinot noir, beaujolais or a light
and simple Italian. And don’t
over-ice – these reds need only
a 45-minute spell in the fridge.
Finally, match cooled reds with
pâtés, terrines, cured meats,
mild cheeses and cold salmon.
superior French sauv Taste the Difference
blanc that’s full of zesty Beaujolais Supérieur 2017,
citrus and passion fruit. France (£7.50, down to £7 until
At just 11.5% ABV, it’s 14 August, Sainsbury’s) is
less heady than some. light and easy-going with
• Finest Marlborough strawberry and blackberry
Pinot Noir 2017, New notes – ideal for chilling.
Zealand (£8.50, Tesco) Barbera d’Asti 2015, Italy
A soft, smooth, deeply (£6.50, Morrisons) has hints
fruity red for duck or of mulberry and brambles with
pork chops, with ripe, a chocolatey edge and good
squashy black cherries acidity. Serve with charcuterie.
and plums. Extra Special Yarra Valley
Pinot Noir 2017, Australia
(£7.98, Asda) is a little richer,
but has plenty of soft, juicy
plums ripe for chilling.
NEW BOOK
Whether you call it the snifter,
sharpener or sundowner,
nothing beats a good aperitif.
Kate Hawkings’ witty
Aperitif (Quadrille
£16.99) covers them
all, from Campari
to champagne and
pastis to pink gin.
Cracking cocktail
recipes, too.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 73
just for you.

WIN! a classic
8-speed Pashley bike
Upgrade your wheels with a smart Pashley Britannia
bicycle, fully equipped with all the best accessories

B
ased on Pashley’s original
1920s design, the classic
8-speed Britannia is designed
to bring fun and vintage elegance to
trips around town or down winding
country lanes. Bursting at the
PRIZE Ride in style
on a British handlebars with all the extras
WORTH design classic that make taking your bike out
a wicker basket and ‘ding-dong’
bell. To complete the prize, Pashley
is also throwing in a branded tote
bag and leather frame guard.
Our winner can pick their colour,
choosing from Old English White,
Oxford Blue, Royal Red, Powder Pink
or Duck Egg Blue, in frame sizes

£1,000 a joy, it’s something you’ll cherish.

First up, hand-stitched leather
17.5in, 20in or 22in (all come with
classic cream tyres). You can have
grips and a handmade leather the bike shipped to you if you like,

*CLOSING DATE: 31 AUGUST 2018

sprung seat, which gradually
moulds to your shape for a super-
comfy ride. Then there are the
all-important chain guard and mud
guards,as well as a classic easy-
park prop stand, rear LED light and
classic front lamp. Naturally there’s
although Pashley would prefer to
ship it to your nearest dealer so they
can set it up safely for you to ride.
• To enter, visit deliciousmagazine.
co.uk/promotions.* For Ts&Cs, see
p129. For more information, visit
pashley.co.uk/bicycles/britannia.php

COOK THE COVER

...and win a top-notch Anolon
copper cookware set COOK
THE

C
ook the ice cream sandwiches on this month’s COVER
WORTH cover and you could win a trove of state-of-the-
art Anolon Nouvelle copper cookware, favoured
£500 by professional chefs thanks to its superb heat
conduction, durability and performance.
Made from hard anodised aluminium with
a copper base, these pans are twice as tough
as stainless steel and are oven-safe up to
240°C. They also come with a lifetime guarantee.
Included are a five-piece saucepan and skillet
*CLOSING DATE: 31 AUGUST 2018

set, plus a 24cm stockpot and 24cm casserole

– years of cooking pleasure await. anolon.co.uk JUNE’S WINNER
FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… • Kate Harris
wins a luxury hotel
Make the ice cream sandwiches on our cover, stay and Luscombe
take a photograph and share it with us.* drinks hamper

TO ENTER & FOR Ts&Cs, GO TO deliciousmagazine.co.uk/cookthecover

74 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 EAT WELL
FOR LIFE
N O FA D S , N O U N R E A L I ST I C H E A LT H C L A I M S… J U ST 2 2 I N S P I R I N G PA G E S
O F H O N E ST, N U T R I T I O U S , G O O D - F O R -YO U R E C I P E S , I N F O A N D I D E A S

MIDWEEK MEALS p76

Satisfying main-course salads packed
with hearty, good-for-you ingredients

THE BUDGET RECIPE p80

All-in-one pot Mexican spiced rice

WOW-FACTOR BURGER p91

Yum – and it happens to be vegan, too

SOUP OF THE MONTH p84

Cool, refreshing no-cook gazpacho

TURN THE PAGE FOR THE RECIPES →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 75
 M I DW E E K L I F E S AV E R S

MAIN MEAL
SALADS
Forget limp lettuce and skimpy portions: these salads are packed with flavour
and hearty, good-for-you ingredients – properly satisfying, in other words.
Try them on a salad naysayer and see if you can’t convince them
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING OLIVIA SPURRELL PHOTOGRAPHS LIZZIE MAYSON STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE

CROWD-
WEEKNIGHT PLEASING
PROMISE CLASSIC
Your guarantee for every recipe
in this feature: NO MORE THAN…
• 10 ingredients (not including oil)
• 30 minutes hands-on time
• 650 calories per portion (but
most recipes have fewer)
• 10g sat fat per portion
PLUS…
• No unnecessary
added sugar

Coronation
chicken salad
with toasted naan
croutons

Coronation chicken salad
with toasted naan croutons
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
Prepare the coronation chicken
MAKE mixture up to a day ahead and
AHEAD
keep covered in the fridge. Use
up any leftovers in sandwiches.
If you like, add a pinch each
FOOD
TEAM’S of garam masala and ground
TIPS
cinnamon and a small handful
of raisins to the mixture in step 1. Put
the naan breads in the toaster for 3-4
minutes to avoid turning on the oven.
• 5 tbsp mayonnaise
• 1½ tsp medium curry powder
• 2 cooked free-range chicken
breasts, shredded
• 80-100g bag watercress
• ½ cucumber, halved lengthways and
sliced into half-moons
• 100g cherry tomatoes, halved
• Juice 1 lemon
• 1 tbsp mango chutney
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 2 naan breads, toasted and torn into
large chunks (see tips)
• 2 tbsp toasted flaked almonds
1 In a bowl, mix together the mayo,
curry powder, chicken and some salt
and pepper (see tips).
2 In another bowl, toss together the
watercress, cucumber and tomatoes.
In a small bowl, whisk together the
lemon juice, mango chutney and olive
oil and season to taste.
3 Toss half the dressing with the salad
and arrange on a platter or divide
among 4 plates, then add the chicken
and naan chunks on the side. Drizzle
with the remaining dressing and
sprinkle with the toasted almonds.
PER SERVING 636kcals, 35.8g fat (4.2g
saturated), 33.2g protein, 43.4g carbs
(6.6g sugars), 1.1g salt, 3.9g fibre
POTATO
SALAD WITH
A TWIST
Ham hock, pea and
apple potato salad with
buttermilk dressing
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, OVEN TIME
40-45 MIN
Add broad beans and baby gem
NEXT lettuce and swap the cumin
TIME
seeds for fennel seeds.
If you don’t have time to roast the
TIMESAVER potatoes, simmer them for 20
TIP
minutes in a pan of salted water
(you can omit the garlic cloves).
• 750g charlotte potatoes, halved
or quartered if large
• 4 garlic cloves (skins on)
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 1 granny smith apple, finely sliced
• 50ml cider vinegar
• 1½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted in
a dry frying pan
• 6 tbsp buttermilk or natural yogurt
• 100g bag lamb’s lettuce
• 2 x 90g packs pulled ham hock
• 150g frozen peas, defrosted
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Toss the potatoes and garlic
cloves with the oil in a large roasting tin
and season with salt and pepper. Roast
eat well for life.
for 40-45
minutes (after
15 minutes,
remove the garlic
cloves, squeeze the flesh
into a small bowl and set aside).
2 Put the apple slices and vinegar
in a shallow non-metallic bowl with
a pinch of salt, cover with cling film
and set aside for 15 minutes. Meanwhile,
crush half the cumin seeds in a pestle
and mortar, then whisk with the roasted
garlic flesh, buttermilk and salt and
pepper to taste.
3 When the potatoes are cooked, set them
aside to cool slightly for 5 minutes and
drain the apples (discard the vinegar).
Toss the potatoes and apples in a bowl
with the lamb’s lettuce, ham hock and
peas. Transfer to a serving platter, drizzle
with the dressing, scatter with the
remaining cumin seeds and serve.
PER SERVING 324kcals, 9.3g fat
(2g saturated), 18.1g protein, 38.9g carbs
(8.8g sugars), 1g salt, 6.5g fibre →
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 77

Pasta, beetroot and chard
salad with halloumi
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
The salad will keep well in a lidded
MAKE plastic container in the fridge for
AHEAD
1-2 days. Any leftover salad would
make a great take-to-work lunch.
Swap the halloumi cheese for
NEXT prawns or, if you’re vegan, swap
TIME
the cheese for a ready-cooked
grain pouch.
• 350g orecchiette or other small
pasta shape
• 200g swiss chard
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 300g cooked beetroot, cut into wedges
• Small bunch fresh dill, roughly chopped
• Grated zest and juice 1 lemon
• 200g halloumi, cut into 5mm slices
• 2 tbsp pumpkin seeds, toasted in
a dry pan
1 Cook the orecchiette according to the
pack instructions. Drain and run under
cold water until cool, then put in a large
bowl and set aside.
2 Meanwhile, separate the chard leaves
and stalks. Finely chop the stalks and set
aside. Roughly chop half the leaves and
finely chop the rest. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a
78 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
NEW-LOOK
PASTA
SALAD
FRESH
AND
ZINGY
frying pan over a medium heat, add the
chard stalks and fry for 5-6 minutes until
soft. Stir in the roughly chopped chard
leaves and cook for another 2-3 minutes
until just wilted.
3 Put the finely chopped chard leaves in a
pestle and mortar and pound with a pinch
of salt, then drizzle in the remaining
2 tbsp olive oil and combine to a paste.
4 Toss the cooked chard leaves and stalks,
chard paste, beetroot wedges, dill and
lemon zest and juice with the pasta.
Season with salt and pepper to taste,
then transfer to a serving platter or bowl.
5 In a clean pan, fry the halloumi slices
for 1-2 minutes on each side until golden.
Arrange over the salad, then sprinkle over
the pumpkin seeds and serve.
PER SERVING 636kcals, 24.1g fat (10g
saturated), 24.7g protein, 76.9g carbs
(8.6g sugars), 1.7g salt, 6.6g fibre
Vietnamese prawn,
quinoa and papaya salad
with peanuts
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
Try swapping the prawns for
NEXT cooked chicken, pork or beef. If
TIME
you can get hold of unripe green
papaya, use it in this salad instead of ripe
orange papaya, peeled and cut into strips.
• 2 x 250g packs ready-cooked
red and white quinoa
• 400g sustainable cooked, peeled
king prawns
• 300g beansprouts
• 1 ripe papaya, peeled, seeds
scooped out, sliced
• 1 large bunch fresh coriander,
roughly chopped
• 1 large bunch fresh mint, leaves picked
and chopped
• 3 tbsp toasted sesame oil
• Grated zest and juice 1 lime,
plus wedges to serve
• 1 red chilli, finely chopped
• 50g roasted salted peanuts, lightly
crushed in a pestle and mortar
1 In a large serving bowl, toss together
the quinoa, prawns, beansprouts,
papaya, coriander and mint.
2 In a small bowl, whisk together the
sesame oil, lime zest and juice, chilli and
some salt and pepper. Toss with the salad,
then scatter over the peanuts and serve
with lime wedges for squeezing.
PER SERVING 503kcals, 21g fat (2.6g
saturated), 30.3g protein, 43.5g carbs
(9.2g sugars), 1.8g salt, 9.5g fibre
NEXT MONTH
Five meals under £5 a head
 eat well for life.

Thai steak salad with

jasmine rice, sugar snaps
and toasted coconut
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN

Marinate the steak and

MAKE roast the aubergine up
AHEAD
to 1 day ahead.
Swap steak for sliced chicken
NEXT breast. Pound with a rolling
TIME
pin first to tenderise, so the
chicken will cook more quickly.

• 2 British beef steaks (we used

sirloin, but rump also works well)
• 3 tbsp Thai red curry paste (we
used the Thai Taste brand)
• 1 large aubergine, cut into chunks
• 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for frying
• 3 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 tbsp fish sauce
• 2 tsp light brown soft sugar
• 300g sugar snap peas, halved
lengthways
• 2 x 250g packs ready-cooked
jasmine rice
• 1 red chilli, sliced
• 25g fresh Thai (or regular) basil
• 2 tbsp toasted coconut flakes

1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/

gas 6. Put the steaks on a plate and
rub all over with the curry paste.
Cover with cling film and set aside.
2 Toss the aubergine with the olive oil
and some salt in a roasting tin. Roast
for 20-25 minutes until tender and
golden, then transfer to a mixing bowl.
3 Meanwhile make the dressing.
In a small bowl, whisk together the
vegetable oil, fish sauce and sugar.
4 Heat a griddle pan to high and brush
the steaks with a little oil. Fry for 2
minutes on each side for medium-rare,
or longer if you prefer your meat well
done. Rest on a board for 5 minutes.
5 Add the sugar snaps, rice, chilli and
basil to the bowl with the aubergines
and toss to coat. Drizzle over most of
the dressing and toss again. Transfer
the rice mix to a platter, thinly slice SPICY
the steaks and arrange on top. Drizzle TREAT
over any remaining dressing and
sprinkle with the coconut flakes.
PER SERVING 575kcals, 29.5g fat (8g
saturated), 31.8g protein, 41.8g carbs
(8.4g sugars), 1.6g salt, 7.4g fibre
eat well for life .
THE BUDGET RECIPE
An all-in-one veggie dish that shows just how flavoursome a thrifty idea can be
Mexican spiced rice
FEED 4 SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
FOR LESS SIMMERING TIME 10-12 MIN, PLUS RESTING
THAN
£4.50 If you have leftover roast
FOOD
TEAM’Smeat from Sunday lunch,
TIPS
stir it into the rice dish
and heat through. If you’re feeding
more people, serve as a side for
pork sausages.
• 2 tbsp light olive oil
• 2 red onions, roughly chopped
• 2 carrots, sliced
• 300g basmati rice, well rinsed
under cold running water
80 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• 1-2 tbsp adobo/chipotle chilli paste
• 2 tbsp raisins
• 400g can cherry tomatoes
• 200g green beans, halved
• Small bunch fresh coriander or
parsley, roughly chopped
• Grated zest and juice 1 lime
• 100g feta cheese, crumbled
1 Heat the olive oil in a 26cm shallow
casserole or deep pan with a lid over
a medium heat. Fry the onions for 5
minutes or until softening and turning
golden. Add the carrots and cook for
5 minutes more.
2 Add the rice and chilli paste, mix
well and cook for 1 minute, then add
the raisins and cherry tomatoes. Fill
the can with cold water and pour it
over the rice. Bring to the boil, then
add the green beans, cover and
RECIPE: KATY MCCLELLAND. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT.
reduce the heat. Simmer for 10-12
FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: LUIS PERAL
minutes or until the rice is cooked
through. Take off the heat and leave
to rest with the lid on for 5 minutes.
3 To serve, stir in the herbs, lime zest
and juice, and scatter over the feta.
Check the seasoning, then serve.
PER SERVING 519kcals, 12.8g fat
(4.7g saturated), 14.3g protein,
82g carbs (19.9g sugars), 0.8g salt,
9.2g fibre
 eat well for life.

THE 5:2 RECIPE

Get your oily fish quota in this quick, zingy dish, which savvily uses frozen fish

Grilled mackerel with UNDER 250

tomato, basil and CALORIES AND
preserved lemon salad ALL YOUR
SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
VITAMIN D
FOOD
The preserved lemon
TEAM’S flesh (pulp) can taste bitter
TIP
and be overpowering.
To remove it, scrape off with a knife
and use only the lemon skin.

• 1 sustainable frozen mackerel

fillet (about 85g)
• Large pinch ground cumin
• Large pinch ground coriander
• 1 small garlic clove, halved
• 7 cherry tomatoes, halved
• Handful small fresh basil leaves
• ¼ preserved lemon, thinly
sliced (see tip)
• Finely grated zest and juice
½ lemon, plus a lemon wedge
to serve (optional)
• Large handful watercress,
rocket and spinach salad leaves
RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: WEI TANG

1 Heat the grill to medium-high

and line a baking tray with foil.
Put the frozen mackerel fillet on
the tray, skin-side down. Rub all
over with the ground spices and
season with salt and pepper. Grill
for 4-5 minutes, then turn and grill
for 4-5 minutes more until cooked
through and the skin is crisp.
2 Meanwhile, run the cut sides of
the garlic around the inside of a
shallow serving bowl, then discard.
Add the tomatoes, basil, preserved
lemon, grated lemon zest and juice
to the bowl, along with the salad
leaves and a little salt and pepper. ON NON-FASTING DAYS... By nutritionist Amanda Ursell
Adding 200g boiled new potatoes brings the calories up to 380 per serving
Mix well, then serve the mackerel
and raises the vitamin C from 30mg to 44mg per serving, which is over
with the salad and the lemon half your recommended intake for the day. The potatoes also boost fibre
wedge for squeezing, if you like. content to 6g, or a fifth of your daily 30g target. Potatoes have a medium
PER SERVING 248kcals, 16g fat glycaemic index which, in combination with protein in the mackerel, will
give an overall slow rise in blood sugar after eating. One serving, with or
(3.4g saturated), 18.8g protein, without the potatoes, gives you 136 per cent of your vitamin D.
5.7g carbs (2.9g sugars), 0.4g salt, Amanda is the nutrition editor of our sister magazine Healthy Food Guide
2.4g fibre
THE BATCH-COOK
RECIPE This cook-once, eat-twice recipe makes the most of ripe
summer veg. It’s the ultimate timesaver for busy weeknights
The master recipe
FREEZE Roasted summer
HALF FOR
ratatouille
LATER SERVES 8 (2 MEALS FOR 4). HANDS-ON TIME
15 MIN, OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN
Once cooked and cooled,
MAKE store in an airtight container
AHEAD
in the fridge for up to 2 days.
If you’re not vegan, top with
FOOD
TEAM’S 100g crumbled feta for the
TIP
last 10 minutes of cooking.
• 3 red onions, finely sliced
• 1 aubergine, cut into small chunks
• 1 each yellow and orange peppers,
deseeded and thickly sliced
• 2 courgettes, roughly chopped
• 1 large fennel bulb, sliced through
the root into wedges
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 180g radishes, halved if large
• 500g cherry tomatoes on the vine
• 4 garlic cloves, crushed
• 1 tbsp sherry vinegar
• Large handful fresh basil and
flatleaf parsley leaves, chopped
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Put the onions, aubergine,
peppers, courgettes and fennel into
1 large or 2 smaller roasting tins.
Drizzle with half the olive oil, season
generously with salt and pepper, then
toss to coat. Roast for 20 minutes.
2 Add the radishes, tomatoes, garlic
and sherry vinegar. Toss to coat,
then roast for 15-20 minutes more
until the vegetables are tender and
the tomatoes are beginning to burst.
3 Drizzle with the remaining olive
oil, scatter over the herbs and serve
half with fresh crusty bread or pasta
and chill or freeze the rest (see Make
Ahead or How to Freeze, opposite).
PER SERVING (FOR 4) 133kcals,
6.5g fat (1g saturated), 3.7g protein,
11.5g carbs (10g sugars), 0.1g salt,
6.8g fibre
 eat well for life.

Use the second half of the batch to makeÉ

Shakshuka
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
If you’re feeling really
FOOD
TEAM’Shungry poach or fry an
TIP
extra egg per person
and serve with herby yogurt.
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 1 tsp coriander seeds
• ½ tsp fennel seeds
• Pinch chipotle chilli flakes
• 400g tin chopped tomatoes
• ½ batch roasted summer
ratatouille, left
• 4 large free-range eggs
• Handful mixed fresh herbs (we
used parsley, mint and coriander),
coarsely chopped
• Crusty bread to serve
to a simmer. Make 4 indents in the
tomato mixture with a large spoon HOW TO FREEZE
and crack an egg into each one. Allow the ratatouille to cool completely in the
Cover with the lid and cook for tin(s), transfer to food bags or containers and
8-10 minutes until the egg whites freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost in the fridge
have set but the yolks are still runny. overnight and eat cold, reheat to piping hot before
3 Scatter over the chopped herbs serving or use to make our shakshuka recipe.
and serve with crusty bread for
a light supper or brunch.
PER SERVING 284kcals, 16.3g fat
(3.2g saturated), 14.4g protein,
15.4g carbs (13.7g
sugars), 0.4g salt,
8.5g fibre

1 Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based

frying pan or shallow casserole
with a lid and fry the spice seeds
and chilli flakes until fragrant.
Add the tomatoes, rinse out
the tin with 100ml water and
add to the pan. Bring to
a gentle simmer and cook
for about 10 minutes until
reduced and thickened.
2 Stir in the roasted summer
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPHS: TARA FISHER. STYLING: WEI TANG

ratatouille and bring back

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 83
eat well for life.

SOUP OF THE MONTH

Make it ahead, then serve chilled on a hot day with a cool glass of dry sherry on the side

Gazpacho
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, EASY
PLUS AT LEAST 4 HOURS CHILLING NO-COOK
Make 2-3 days ahead and
RECIPE
MAKE
AHEAD keep covered in the fridge.
The flavour will become
stronger and punchier.
FOOD This is great for using up
TEAM’S past-their-best tomatoes.
TIP
If you’re pushing the soup
through a sieve, save the pulp to top
a toasted baguette, then drizzle with
extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle
with sea salt for a tasty snack.

• 800g ripe tomatoes, chopped

• ½ cucumber, roughly chopped,
plus a handful diced pieces to serve
• 2 red peppers, deseeded and
roughly chopped
• 2 garlic cloves
• 50-60g day-old crusty white bread
or sourdough
• Glug dry sherry
• 1 tbsp sherry vinegar
• Glug extra-virgin olive oil, plus a
drizzle to serve
• Handful each fresh basil leaves,
sliced cherry tomatoes and
drained capers to serve

1 Whizz the tomatoes, cucumber,

peppers, garlic, bread, sherry,
vinegar and oil in a blender or food
processor with salt and black pepper
until combined. You can stop at this
stage, but the soup won’t be
completely smooth. For a smoother FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: WEI TANG

finish, push through a fine mesh

RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH.

sieve into a jug, reserving the pulp

(see tip). Cover and chill for at least
4 hours (see Make Ahead).
2 Serve the soup in bowls, topped
with the basil leaves, sliced cherry
tomatoes, capers, diced cucumber
and an extra drizzle of oil.
PER SERVING 152kcals, 6.3g fat
(0.9g saturated), 3.3g protein,
15.4g carbs (9.7g sugars), 0.1g salt,
4.4g fibre

84 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

THE FRIDAY NIGHT
SUPPER
Hot dogs with sauerkraut
and crispy fried onions
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN
Fry the onions 1-2 days
MAKE
AHEAD ahead and chill in an
airtight container.
• 4 British outdoor-reared pork
sausages
• Olive oil for frying
• 1 red onion, sliced into rings
• 2 tbsp plain flour
FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS
RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: KATE WHITAKER.
Take the hot dog up a notch with this winning
combination of spiced crispy onions and sauerkraut
• 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 1 tsp caraway seeds
• 2 brioche hot dog rolls
• 4 tbsp readymade sauerkraut from
a jar (we used RAW Fresh Organic
Sauerkraut from Ocado)
• Green salad leaves, cornichons
and dijon mustard to serve
1 Heat the grill to medium-high
and cook the sausages, turning
regularly, for 15-20 minutes until
browned and cooked through.
2 Meanwhile, pour 1cm olive oil in a
deep frying pan over a medium-high
heat. Toss the onion in a mixing bowl
with the plain flour and salt and
eat well for life.
pepper. Put all the spice seeds in
the frying pan with the oil and fry QUICKER
until they start to pop and colour, THAN A
then add the floured onions to the
pan and fry, stirring from time to
TAKEAWAY
time, for 15 minutes until deep brown
and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper.
3 Cut the hot dog rolls lengthways
almost all the way through, then toast
under the grill for a few minutes.
Fill with sauerkraut and 2 sausages
each. Pile on the crispy onions (and
any spice seeds), then serve with
salad, cornichons and dijon mustard.
PER SERVING 656kcals, 41g fat
(12.7g saturated), 31.6g protein,
38.1g carbs (10.3g sugars), 2.3g salt,
3.9g fibre
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 85
TAKE A PACK OF…

CHERRY
TOMATOES
Use these juicy gems to create four speedy
but special recipes. Dare we suggest
weeknights will never be the same again?
Bloody mary panzanella
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE SALAD. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN

The vodka gives the dressing an extra kick and mimics

FOOD
TEAM’S the flavour of a bloody mary, but you can leave it out.
TIPS 15-MINUTE
Use a vegetarian Worcestershire sauce for veggies.
SUPER SIDE
DISH
Heat 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium
heat and fry 150g ciabatta, torn into chunks, with a sprinkle of sea salt
flakes until just starting to crisp. Remove from the heat.
In a bowl, mix together 250g halved cherry tomatoes, 2 sliced
celery sticks and 2 tbsp drained capers. In another small bowl, W H AT
whisk together 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, 1 tbsp vodka (optional), T O B U Y...
1 tsp red wine vinegar, ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce, ¼ tsp Tabasco For our recipes we
used a 250g pack
sauce, ¼ tsp celery salt and some cracked black pepper. Pour over of vine-ripened
the tomato mixture, then stir in the toasted ciabatta and stir to combine. cherry tomatoes
Serve with lemon wedges and a scattering of fresh basil leaves.
PER SERVING 225kcals, 12.8g fat (1.9g saturated), 5g protein,

RECIPES: OLIVIA SPURRELL. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPHS: KATE WHITAKER. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR
21.3g carbs (3.5g sugars), 0.9g salt, 2.3g fibre
Cheesy quesadillas with tomato,
red pepper and avocado salsa
ZINGY SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT SNACK. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
CROWD-
PLEASER FOOD
Try the salsa served spooned over a bowlful
TEAM’S of nachos, or with a beef burger or some
TIP
grilled chicken.

Mix 2 chopped ripe avocados, 250g chopped cherry

tomatoes, 1 bunch chopped fresh coriander, 1 sliced
shallot, the finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime, 1 tbsp
olive oil and plenty of salt and pepper in a bowl.
In another bowl, mix together 100g grated
cheddar, 50g sliced roasted red peppers, ½ tsp
chipotle chilli flakes and some black pepper.
Divide the mixture between 2 small corn tortillas
and top with 2 more small corn tortillas.
Heat a dry frying pan over a medium heat and
toast the quesadillas for 2 minutes on each side until
golden, crisp and oozy. Cut the quesadillas into wedges
and serve with the salsa and soured cream.
PER SERVING 421kcals, 28.7g fat (9.3g saturated), 11.5g
protein, 26.6g carbs (3.9g sugars), 0.9g salt, 5.4g fibre
 eat well for life.

Chorizo, halloumi
and tomato traybake
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN,
GRILL TIME 15 MIN

EASY
FOOD
Serve the traybake with a pile of ONE-PAN
TEAM’S
TIP
flatbreads or some crusty bread for TRAYBAKE
a more filling meal.

Heat the grill to high. Cut 120g halloumi

into 0.5cm slices and toss in a bowl with
2 tsp ancho chilli paste and 2 tbsp olive oil
until well coated. Leave to marinate.
On a baking tray, toss together 1 red onion,
sliced into 12 wedges, 250g cherry tomatoes
and 120g padrón peppers, then scatter over
100g sliced cooking chorizo. Drizzle with
olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt flakes. Grill
on high for 10 minutes, then add a 400g tin of
chickpeas, drained and rinsed, and the halloumi
to the tray (reserve the marinade). Grill for a
further 5 minutes, then remove from the oven.
Finely grate the zest of ½ lemon and whisk
with the juice of ½ lemon into the reserved
marinade. Drizzle over the traybake to serve.
PER SERVING 397kcals, 26.1g fat
(9.5g saturated), 17.9g protein, 19.5g carbs
(6g sugars), 1.9g salt, 6.1g fibre

HEARTY Sesame tuna steaks with tomato noodle

ASIAN-STYLE salad and crispy fried chilli and ginger
SALAD SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN

FOOD
For a vegetarian alternative, swap tuna for a block
TEAM’S of firm tofu and fry until golden on all sides, then
TIP
slice and serve as you would the tuna.

Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan over a medium heat, then
gently fry 1 sliced red chilli, 2 sliced garlic cloves and a 5cm piece
of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into matchsticks, until crisp.
Remove and set aside. Fry a bunch of sliced spring onions in the
same pan until golden, then remove and set aside.
Bring a pan of water to the boil and cook 200g green beans for
2 minutes, then add 2 vermicelli noodle nests and cook for a further
1-2 minutes until al dente. Drain both and refresh in cold water.
Mix 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil, 1 tsp soy sauce and 1 tsp lime
juice in a large bowl. Toss through the noodles and green beans
with 250g sliced cherry tomatoes and the spring onions.
Put 100g sesame seeds on a plate and press 4 x 150g yellowfin
tuna steaks (or see tip) on top to coat all over. Heat a glug of olive oil
in a frying pan over a high heat and cook the steaks for 1 minute on
each side. Slice and serve with the noodle salad and crispy aromatics.
PER SERVING 567kcals, 24.8g fat (3.9g saturated), 49.4g protein,
33.2g carbs (6.6g sugars), 0.5g salt, 6.9g fibre

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 87
 THE SANE VIEW

Food that makes you look

younger: fact or fiction?
Throw away that expensive facial serum: glowing skin could be yours just by heading to
the kitchen… Really? Berries and citrus fruit are ‘proven complexion perfecters’, and
for stronger, glossier hair, an avocado a day will ‘help the follicles work more efficiently’.
If only life, ageless beauty (and health) were that simple, says a sceptical Sue Quinn
small part of the puzzle, along with
sleep, alcohol, smoking, skincare
and prescription treatments.”
Dr Mahto says there’s “a small
amount of evidence” that some
foods might have a role to play in
managing chronic skin conditions
such as eczema, psoriasis and
rosacea. For example, foods with
anti-inflammatory properties,
particularly those rich in omega 3
fats such as oily fish, seeds and
nuts, might help some people when
eaten as part of a wider treatment
programme. It’s a different story,
loads of collagen because the body
takes what it needs, and you pee
out the rest,” Dr Mahto says.
The same applies to foods rich
in vitamin A. While this nutrient
can play a role in treating acne, the
science is complex: vitamin A takes
different forms and doses need to
be high to be effective. “You would
never be able to get enough of it in
your diet to treat acne effectively.”
THE COLLAGEN CONUNDRUM
Sadly, we can’t change the fact that
collagen production decreases with

H
ealth and wellness
websites are brimming
with promises like these;
that you can ‘get the glow’ by
incorporating various ‘superfoods’
into your diet. Of course, what
you eat and your appearance are
connected: a well-balanced diet
will boost your chances of looking
healthy. But claims that particular
foods or diets can be magic bullets
in your beauty arsenal are wrong
and sometimes dangerous,
according to dermatologists.
“I often hear that what you put
in your mouth is going to have an
effect on your skin, but the human
body just doesn’t work that way,”
says Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant
dermatologist and author of The
Skincare Bible (Penguin Life £14.99).
“Food has to pass through the gut
and some of it gets to our skin and
some of it doesn’t. Diet is just a
however, for people who aren’t age. After our mid-20s, levels fall
nutritionally deficient. by about 1 per cent per year and,
Foods rich in vitamin C regularly for women, more rapidly after the
appear on lists of those that are menopause, resulting in fine lines,
claimed to be ‘skin-perfecting’. wrinkles and sagging skin. Dr
This probably stems from the fact Mahto says apart from including
that our bodies need vitamin C to plenty of protein in your diet, there
produce collagen, the protein that is nothing you can eat to encourage
gives skin its structure. But healthy your body to produce more
people who aren’t deficient have collagen. And she’s highly sceptical
nothing to gain by eating copious of drinks that claim to do this.
amounts of it. “Eating lots of You can, however, reduce the
vitamin C isn’t going to give you risk of damaging your collagen
EAT YOUR WAY TO HEALTHY SKIN
A healthy diet should include the following foods to boost your
chances of having healthy skin, according to Dr Anjali Mahto
• Oily fish: salmon, mackerel and herring
• Fruit and vegetables: citrus fruits, tomatoes, sweet potato, dark
leafy greens and yellow vegetables, spinach and avocado
• Nuts and seeds: sunflower seeds and walnuts

by cutting back on sugary foods,
including fruit, if you eat excessive
amounts. Dr Mahto explains that
when we eat lots of sweet foods, the
sugar molecules bind to collagen,
leading to an accumulation of
proteins called advanced glycation
end-products. These prevent
collagen functioning properly. “I’m
not saying cut out sugar altogether,
but there’s evidence that sugar will
cause accelerated ageing of your
skin,” Dr Mahto says. She adds that
‘sugar’ includes so-called unrefined
syrups such as honey and agave,
as well as fruit.
AND WHAT ABOUT ACNE?
The connection between chocolate
and acne has been hotly debated for
decades. Until the 1960s, doctors
believed chocolate caused spots, but
an influential 1969 study appeared
to debunk the link. Now, scientists
have changed their minds again.
“There is emerging evidence that
sugar and foods with a high
glycaemic index (those that raise
blood glucose levels quickly) can
drive acne in a small select group of
people,” Dr Mahto says. Again, she
doesn’t advise cutting out sugar
completely. “But if you eat a lot of
sugar, think about cutting down.”
Dr Mahto says the links between
dairy and acne are weaker than
those for sugar, so she advises
against excluding foods like milk,
cheese and yogurt from your diet
unless advised by a doctor to do so.
“I have a group of patients who are
gluten free and dairy free and sugar
free and you wonder what they’re
eating,” Dr Mahto says. “I tell them
it’s not going to fix their skin. I
always find it slightly worrying in
a condition that’s already causing
anxiety – and we know that people
with acne are more likely to have
ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES.
mental health issues – that they’re
then trying to cut everything out of
their diet. It’s dangerous territory.”
GET THE GLOSS?
Thinning hair can be caused by
nutritional deficiencies, particularly
iron, vitamin D and zinc, says
Dr Sharon Wong, consultant
dermatologist and hair specialist
at London Bridge Hospital. It’s a
particular problem among young
women with heavy periods and
increasing numbers of vegans and
vegetarians, she says. It’s important
to have blood tests to check for
deficiencies; if your levels are low
(ferritin levels indicate whether iron
stores are adequate and should be
above 70 for healthy hair), boosting
your dietary intake may help.
But people with no deficiencies
won’t benefit from eating more of
a particular nutrient. “It’s important
to remember that deficiencies can
cause problems, but overconsuming
nutrients won’t make your hair
healthier and may cause problems,”
Dr Wong says. “It’s not one nutrient
or ‘superfood’ that creates healthy
hair. General healthy eating is the
gold standard; you need a well
rounded, balanced diet.”
“The glossy, shiny manes of
celebrities have more to do with the
products they put on their hair than
what they eat,” Dr Wong says. “Hair
is shiny because of its light-reflecting
properties, which can be enhanced
with oils and conditioners. These
smooth out the cuticles that form
the protective layer of each hair,
making it easier to reflect the light.
A daily avocado smoothie won’t
produce the same effect,” she says.
Dr Wong says there is some
evidence that people with weak
Deficiencies can
cause problems,
but overconsuming
nutrients may also
cause problems
your health.
TRUE OR FALSE?
Bingeing on foods rich in vitamin C
will lead to more beautiful skin
❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
Eliminating dairy from your diet
(without medical advice) is worth
trying to treat acne
❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
Cutting back on sugary foods such as
honey, syrups & fruit may reduce the
risk of collagen damage
❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
Eating avocado leads to glossier hair
❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
or brittle nails might benefit from
boosting their intake of biotin
(vitamin B7), which encourages
the production of protein for nail
growth. Good sources are eggs, raw
almonds, cheese and green leafy veg.
THE BOTTOM LINE
There’s no robust scientific evidence
that eating lots of particular nutrients
will improve the appearance of your
hair, skin or nails – unless you have
a deficiency. Likewise, eliminating
certain foods from your diet without
seeking medical advice may cause
health problems. ‘Beauty foods’ is
a marketing term; a well-balanced
healthy diet is the ultimate key for
looking your best.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 89
 eat well for life.

THE WOW-FACTOR
VEGGIE BURGER
A quick miso marinade gives an umami-rich flavour to aubergine ‘steaks’ to
VEGAN
MEAL FOR
replace traditional beef in this meat-free burger – and it happens to be vegan TWO

Miso and maple aubergine
‘steak’ burger
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN,
OVEN TIME 20 MIN
We griddled the aubergine
THE
FLAVOUR first to maximise flavour,
PUNCH
while the miso marinade
adds a savoury umami dimension
that leaves you feeling satisfied.
FOOD
Serve the aubergine on half
TEAM’S a bun if you want to reduce
TIPS
the calorie content. Save any
offcuts of aubergine and cook and
use in pasta sauces or rice dishes.
3cm-thick strips (you’ll have
leftovers – see tips) and coat
thoroughly in the marinade.
2 Heat a griddle pan over a medium-
high heat. Toss the onions in the oil,
then griddle for 3 minutes on each
side. Put on a large baking sheet,
then transfer to the oven to cook for
20 minutes while you char the
aubergine slices.
3 Turn the heat under the griddle
pan to medium, then griddle the
aubergine slices for 5 minutes on
each side. Add to the tray with the
onions for the last 10 minutes, so
they’re cooked through and tender.
4 Meanwhile, mix the mayonnaise
and half the lime zest. If you like,
warm the burger buns in the oven.
Spread a little of the mayo mixture
on the bottom half of each bun,
drizzle with sriracha, then top with
the aubergine steaks, onions, salad
and peanuts (if using). Finish the
burger with a squeeze of lime juice
and the top half of the bun (see tips).
PER SERVING 440kcals, 17.2g fat
(1.8g saturated), 10.6g protein,
55.6g carbs (21.9g sugars), 3.3g salt,
10.3g fibre

• 2 tbsp white miso paste

(from Waitrose, Ocado and
Amazon)
• 1 tbsp maple syrup
• 1 tbsp dark soy sauce
• 1 large aubergine
• 2 medium onions, cut
RECIPE: KATY MCCLELLAND. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: WEI TANG

into wedges
• 1-2 tsp olive oil
• 2 tbsp vegan mayonnaise
(see p113)
• Grated zest and
juice ½ lime
• 1 tbsp sriracha
sauce
• 2 burger buns,
split in half
• Salad (we used an
Asian herb/salad mix
but you could use a
combination of coriander
and pea shoots) and a few
salted peanuts (optional) to serve

1 Heat the oven to 180°C/

160°C fan/gas 4. Mix the miso
paste, maple syrup and soy in
a shallow bowl to make a marinade.
Slice the aubergine lengthways into

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 91
 V IS FOR VEGETARIAN

LET’S HEAR IT FOR THE

VEGGIE RENAISSANCE
RECIPES, PHOTOGRAPHS AND FOOD STYLING NINA OLSSON

Summer rolls
with satay dip

Summer rolls with
satay dip
MAKES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN
I remember taking my
first bite of summer roll in
a Vietnamese restaurant; it
was a revelation. I couldn’t
fathom how the taste could be
so good when there was so little
apparent added flavouring.
I kept asking my food writer
friend who ordered the rolls for
me if he was sure there wasn’t a
hidden ingredient somewhere.
Soon after I bought rice papers
and made my own rolls at home,
stunned that they proved so
easy to prepare and had nothing
more to them that made them
taste so amazing.
You can prepare the satay
MAKE dipping sauce a day before
AHEAD
serving. Cover tightly and
keep in the fridge.
The rolls are best when
NINA’S they’re freshly made, so
TIPS
prepare them just before
guests arrive or do the prep and let
your guests make their own.
Fresh coriander is the key
ingredient that gives these rolls
their heavenly light, clean, aromatic
taste, so don’t skip it.
I love the peanut dipping sauce
used here, but summer rolls are
also delicious dipped into Japanese
soy sauce (or tamari sauce for a
wheat-free alternative) or a mix of
toasted sesame oil and rice vinegar.
A julienne peeler (available
FOOD
TEAM’S from oxouk.com) is a quick
TIP
and easy way to prepare
thin strips of carrot (juliennes).
FOR THE SATAY PEANUT DIPPING SAUCE
• 3 tbsp good-quality smooth
peanut butter
• 2 tbsp soy or tamari sauce
• 1 tbsp fresh lime juice
• 1 tsp grated fresh ginger
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 1 tsp agave syrup or coconut
sugar
• ¼ tsp sriracha sauce (or a little
more if you like it more spicy)
Now is an exciting time to be a
vegetarian. The art of cooking
vegetables is undergoing a
renaissance, and there’s an army of
creative chefs, authors and bloggers
making a new style of vegetarianism
happen. In my opinion, talking
about vegetables as a meat
substitute feels outdated today. It’s
not about ‘if’ we should eat plant-
based today, but ‘how’. My answer
in my new book, Feasts of Veg, is
to focus on flavour and take
inspiration from world kitchens, to
use techniques that can utilise the
many textures and flavours of veg.
The creative possibilities are vast.
These recipes are all about sharing
good food – one of the best things
to do in life. NINA OLSSON
FOR THE SUMMER ROLLS
• 1 pack spring roll or rice paper
wrappers (we used Blue Dragon
Spring Roll Wrappers)
• 2 medium carrots, julienned (cut
into thin strips; see food team’s tip)
• Handful mixed salad leaves (such
as spinach and radicchio), torn or
shredded
• 2 handfuls finely shredded red
cabbage
• 1 green pepper, cut into strips
• 1 small chioggia/candy-striped
or regular beetroot (uncooked),
peeled and sliced into very
thin rounds
• 1 small cucumber, cut into
matchsticks
• 1 medium avocado, stoned, peeled
and thinly sliced
• 4 spring onions, chopped
• Small handful beansprouts
• Small handful fresh coriander
leaves (see Nina’s tips)
1 Mix together all the ingredients
for the satay peanut dipping sauce
in a bowl (see Make Ahead).
2 Fill a bowl with lukewarm water.
Dip a rice paper wrapper in the water
for 4-5 seconds. Transfer the
wrapper to a work surface or
eat well for life.
NINA’S STORY
Nina is Swedish but now lives in
Amsterdam working as a recipe
developer, photographer, stylist
and art director. She’s the author
of the vegetarian food blog
NourishAtelier.com.
Feasts of Veg
is her second
cookbook.
Her first
was called
Bowls of
Goodness.
chopping board and wait a few
seconds before putting some of
the sliced salad ingredients in the
centre of it. Carefully fold one side
of the now softened wrapper over
the filling snugly, then fold over the
bottom and top edges and roll up
tightly. Repeat with the remaining
wrappers and filling, then serve
with the satay peanut dipping sauce.
PER ROLL 70kcals, 4.6g fat
(1g saturated), 2g protein,
4g carbs (3.4g sugars), 0.4g salt,
2.2g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Echo the
lime juice flavour in the dish with
a dry Australian or New Zealand
riesling – or a simple lime cordial.
Okonomiyaki (Japanese
savoury pancake)
MAKES 4. SERVES 4 AS A FILLING STARTER.
HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN
Okonomiyaki translates
from the Japanese literally as
‘how you want it grilled’. You
can easily customise the recipe
to your liking by choosing
different finely grated vegetables
such as potato, beetroot,
courgette and radishes. →
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 93
 You can buy Japanese
NINA’S
TIP Kewpie mayonnaise and
ready-made furikake spice
mix (a rice seasoning) from Asian
food stores and some supermarkets
or online but be aware that furikake
often contains dried tuna flakes, so
vegetarians should check the pack.
FOOD The vegetables need to be
TEAM’S finely shredded here –
TIPS
radicchio is easy to shred
with a knife but if using firmer veg
as suggested in Nina’s introduction,
use a mandoline or fine slicing
attachment on a food processor.
You can buy dulse (a type of
seaweed) and vegetarian dashi
powder online from souschef.co.uk.
• 400g radicchio, very finely
shredded (see food team’s tips),
plus extra to garnish
• 2 spring onions, thinly sliced
• 2 tbsp chopped pickled ginger
• 50ml vegetarian dashi (see food
team’s tips) or water
Okonomiyaki (Japanese
savoury pancake), p93
94 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• 4 medium free-range eggs,
lightly beaten
• 250g plain flour
• 1 tsp baking powder
• Sesame or vegetable oil for frying
• Kewpie or other mayonnaise,
furikake and toasted dulse to
serve (optional, see tips)
FOR THE OKONOMIYAKI SAUCE
• 50ml Henderson’s Relish
• 50ml tomato ketchup
• 50ml soy or tamari sauce
1 For the pancakes, put the
radicchio, spring onions, ginger,
dashi or water and beaten eggs in a
large bowl and mix together until
the vegetables are evenly coated
with the egg. Sprinkle the flour and
baking powder over the vegetable
mixture, then mix together,
seasoning with a little salt.
2 Heat a frying pan (one with a lid) to
a medium-high heat – the pancakes
can easily burn, so take care the pan
doesn’t get too hot. Drizzle the base
of the pan with oil, then spoon in a
quarter of the pancake mixture and
swirl the pan to make a pancake
about 15cm in diameter. Fry for
about a minute until it begins to
firm. Cover the pan with the lid and
continue cooking for 1-2 minutes
until the underside is nicely
browned. To flip the pancake,
carefully slide the pancake onto a
baking sheet or plate, browned-side
down, then invert back into the pan,
browned-side up. Fry for 1-2 minutes
until the other side is golden brown,
then slide onto a warmed plate.
Repeat the process with the
remaining pancake mixture.
3 Combine the ingredients for the
okonomiyaki sauce in a small bowl.
Serve the pancakes warm with the
sauce, mayonnaise, furikake and
toasted dulse, if you like.
PER SERVING 445kcals, 14.8g fat
(2.4g saturated), 16.2g protein,
59.5g carbs (9.8g sugars), 3g salt,
4.4g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE
The sweet-sour sauce calls for
a tangy, zesty New World white
such as Chilean sauvignon blanc.
Roasted ragù and
pappardelle
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR,
OVEN TIME 50-60 MIN
This family-style pasta dish
features roasted mushrooms,
tomatoes and fennel in a
scrumptious ragù, although you
can easily vary the vegetables
according to your taste or what’s
in season. Thick pappardelle
ribbons give the dish a rustic
quality and soak up the sauce for
a mouthwatering experience.
Roast the vegetables up to
MAKE 48 hours in advance and
AHEAD
keep in an airtight container
or food bag in the fridge until needed.
Rawmesan is a raw, vegan,
KNOW-
HOW soy-free and gluten-free
alternative to parmesan
made with walnuts, sunflower
seeds, nutritional yeast and salt.
Available from planetorganic.com
Sprinkle over crispy
NINA’S
TIP breadcrumbs at the end
for extra crunch.
• Good-quality olive oil
for drizzling
• 400g dried pappardelle or
pasta of your choice
• 100ml dry white wine
• Parmesan, grated, or
Rawmesan (see Know-how),
or 2 tbsp nutritional yeast,
plus extra to serve
• 50g black olives, pitted
• 400g tin cherry tomatoes
• 1 tsp honey or agave syrup
• Handful fresh basil leaves
FOR THE ROASTED RAGÙ
• 800g mushrooms, such as
shiitake, portobello or button
mushrooms, roughly chopped
• 400g cherry tomatoes, halved
• 2 aubergines, trimmed and
cut into small wedges
• 1 fennel bulb, trimmed and
cut into small wedges
• 1 red pepper, cut into thick strips
• 6 shallots, cut into wedges
• 3 garlic cloves, peeled but left
whole
 eat well for life.

• 1 tbsp freshly ground fennel seeds

• 2 tbsp chopped fresh
rosemary leaves
• 1 tsp chilli flakes

YOU’LL ALSO NEED

• 2-3 large roasting trays lined
with non-stick baking paper

1 To make the roasted ragù, heat

the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
Arrange all the prepared vegetables
and garlic in a single layer on the
lined trays. Drizzle with olive oil and
sprinkle with salt and the ground
fennel seeds, chopped rosemary
and chilli flakes. Roast for 30-50
minutes, checking frequently
during the last 10 minutes of the
roasting time to make sure the veg
aren’t burning (see Make Ahead).
2 Meanwhile, bring a large pan of
water to the boil and add a drizzle
of olive oil and a generous pinch of
salt. Cook the pappardelle, or other
pasta shapes, for 2 minutes less
than instructed on the packet. Turn
off the heat and drain the pasta,
reserving 600ml of the cooking
water. Return the pasta to the pan
with the reserved cooking water
and add a drizzle of olive oil to
keep it moist and give it a sheen.
3 Pick out the roasted garlic cloves
from the trays, crush them with a
fork and mix with the pasta. Add the
roasted vegetables, the wine,
parmesan, Rawmesan or nutritional Roasted ragù and
pappardelle
yeast, the olives, tinned tomatoes
and the honey or agave syrup, then
put over a medium-high heat. Leave
to simmer briskly, stirring gently,
for about 5-10 minutes until the
liquid has reduced and been
absorbed by the pasta. Taste the
sauce and adjust the seasoning with
salt and pepper, drizzle with a little Tunisian tabil aubergine and the characteristic spice
olive oil and serve sprinkled with with couscous mix is tabil, widely sprinkled
basil and parmesan or Rawmesan. SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN on bread and used in various
PER SERVING 452kcals, 11.7g fat warm dishes. Tabil features
(3.6g saturated), 19.5g protein, Tunisian cooking is often in this recipe, where aubergines
58.6g carbs (10.6g sugars), 0.5g salt, overshadowed by the more and spices are married
10.9g fibre celebrated Moroccan cuisine, together in a satisfying
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Juicy, light, but after being introduced tagine-style stew, which is
fairly simple Italian reds with fresh to it, I fell in love. Tunisian comforting and exciting,
cherry flavours hit the right notes – food is a blend of Mediterranean drizzled with a creamy
try bardolino or valpolicella. and North African flavours, yogurt dressing. →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 95
 Tunisian tabil
aubergine with
couscous, p95
Make the stew up to a day
MAKE
AHEAD ahead and reheat in a pan
to serve.
• Olive oil for frying
• 1 red onion, thinly sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 3 medium aubergines, roughly
chopped
• ¾ tsp salt, plus extra to taste
• 400g tin chopped tomatoes
• 4-5 sun-dried tomatoes in oil,
drained and finely chopped
(optional)
• Juice ½ lemon
• 400g tin chickpeas, drained
Recipes adapted • 3 dried apricots or other dried
from Feasts of
Veg: Vibrant fruit, finely chopped
vegetarian • 400ml hot vegetable stock
recipes for
gatherings by
FOR THE TABIL SPICE MIX
Nina Olsson
(Kyle Books • 1½ tbsp coriander seeds
£18.99). • ¾ tbsp cumin seeds
96 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• ½ tbsp caraway seeds
• ¾ tsp dried chilli flakes
FOR THE COUSCOUS
• 240g wholegrain couscous
or quinoa
• 420ml hot vegetable stock
• Small handful fresh coriander
FOR THE YOGURT DRESSING
• 200ml greek yogurt
• Small handful chopped mint
1 Heat a frying pan over a medium
heat and toast all the ingredients
for the tabil spice mix for 20-30
seconds, stirring until fragrant.
Transfer to a spice grinder or pestle
and mortar and grind until very fine.
2 Heat a large pan over a medium
heat. Add a drizzle of olive oil and
fry the onion, stirring often, for 5-7
minutes until translucent. Add the
garlic, aubergines and tabil spice
mix with an extra drizzle of olive
oil, then stir to coat the aubergines
in the spice. Fry for about 5 minutes
until the aubergines are nicely
browned. Add the salt, both types of
tomatoes, lemon juice, chickpeas,
dried fruit and stock, mix well,
then leave the stew to simmer for
15 minutes.
3 Meanwhile, put the couscous or
quinoa in a bowl. Pour over the hot
vegetable stock and leave to soak
for 10 minutes, then stir through
the coriander leaves. In a separate
small bowl, mix together the
yogurt and chopped mint.
4 Taste and adjust the seasoning of
the aubergine stew with salt, then
serve with the couscous or quinoa
and drizzle with the yogurt dressing.
Serve with a herb and pomegranate
salad too, if you like.
 eat well for life.

PER SERVING 547kcals, 17g fat
(5.1g saturated), 20.8g protein,
67.6g carbs (14.9g sugars), 2.6g salt,
20.1g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A premium
chilled rosé is a joy with this, best of
all a fruity but dry Spanish rosado.
Chai carrot cake with
lime and rose frosting
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN
TIME 35-40 MIN
I have a soft spot for carrot
cake, and the Indian chai flavours
of cinnamon, cardamom and
nutmeg work beautifully here,
bringing a warmth to the juicy
carrots. The sharp, floral-tasting
frosting provides a cool contrast
to the spicy cake.
Bake the carrot cake a day
MAKE ahead and keep in an
AHEAD
airtight container. Make the
frosting a day ahead, cover and chill
in the fridge.
Be careful not to over-beat
NINA’S
TIP the frosting in step 2 or it
will become too runny.
• 1½ tbsp agave syrup
• ½ tbsp rosewater (optional)
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 20cm round springform or
loose-bottomed cake tin, base and
sides greased with coconut oil or
butter and base lined with
non-stick baking paper
1 Put all the ingredients for the lime
and rose frosting in a mixing bowl
and beat with an electric hand mixer
(or a wooden spoon) until light and
creamy (don’t over-mix – see Make
Ahead and tips). Cover the bowl and
chill until ready to assemble the cake.
2 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/
gas 4. Sift the spelt flour, baking
powder, bicarbonate of soda, salt,
spices and pepper into a large bowl
and mix. In another mixing bowl,
using an electric hand mixer or a
balloon whisk, whisk the coconut
sugar, oil and agave syrup. Add the
eggs one by one, whisking all the
time, then whisk in the vanilla
extract. Pour the oil and egg
mixture into the dry mix and stir
well, then stir in the grated carrots.
3 Pour the cake mix into the prepared
tin and bake for 35-40 minutes or
until a skewer pushed into the
centre of the cake comes out clean.
Remove from the oven and leave to
cool for 30 minutes in the tin. Turn
the cake out of the tin and transfer
to a serving plate to cool. Spread
the frosting over the cake and
sprinkle with nuts, rose petals and
pomegranate seeds (if using).
NEXT
PER SERVING 361kcals, 17.7g fat (5g MONTH
saturated), 5.3g protein, 44.1g carbs Five brilliant
(26.7g sugars), 1g salt, 1.7g fibre veggie bakes
Chai carrot cake
with lime and
rose frosting

• 175g spelt flour

• ¾ tsp baking powder
• ¾ tsp bicarbonate of soda
• ¾ tsp salt
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• 4-6 green cardamom pods, seeds
removed and finely crushed
• ½ tsp ground ginger
• ¼ tsp ground nutmeg
• Pinch freshly ground black
pepper
• 150g coconut sugar
• 130ml olive oil
• 50ml agave syrup
• 2 medium free-range eggs
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 120g carrots, finely grated
• Hazelnuts, dried rose petals and
pomegranate seeds to decorate
(optional)

FOR THE LIME AND ROSE FROSTING

• 150g full-fat cream cheese (the
food team use Philadelphia)
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 tsp fresh lime juice

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 97
leftovers.

LOOSE ENDS
Don’t let this month’s special ingredients linger in your kitchen.
Instead make the most of them with these smart and easy ideas

CHIPOTLE PASTE in 50g mayonnaise, 50g soured SPEEDY SPICED GRANOLA mackerel and pickled cucumber
SPICED YOGURT cream and some salt, pepper Search for ‘speedy homemade or sprinkle on salads or pasta.
FROM
STICKY Mix 1 tbsp and lemon juice. Drizzle over granola’ at deliciousmagazine. SCANDINAVIAN MEATBALLS
BARBECUED
BEEF chipotle paste nachos, steak or fried chicken. co.uk. Add 2 tbsp petimezi, Search ‘frikadeller’
BRISKET
P104
with 3 tbsp yogurt TANGY RADICCHIO SLAW 1 tsp ground cinnamon and the (Scandinavian meatballs) at
or crème fraîche Mix 50ml buttermilk with 2 tbsp crushed seeds of 4 cardamom deliciousmagazine.co.uk. Whizz
and use to pep up sandwiches. mayonnaise, 1 grated carrot, pods to the mixture before a couple of slices of rye bread
SPICED CUTLETS a handful of finely shredded baking for a lightly spiced twist. in a food processor and replace
Loosen 3 tbsp chipotle paste radicchio, half a finely shredded SMOKY RED PEPPER DIP the 50g white breadcrumbs with
with a little water, then use to fennel bulb, 1 tbsp honey and Put 2 red peppers, 2 plum the rye crumbs for added tang.
baste lamb cutlets or chicken 1 tsp toasted and crushed fennel tomatoes and 3 whole peeled PARTY NIBBLES
wings as they cook on a hot seeds. Season with salt, pepper garlic cloves in a roasting tin. Cut rye bread into thin squares
barbie. Serve with lime-spiked and lemon juice. Roast at 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6 and drizzle with olive oil. Toast
mayonnaise and a herby salad. BUTTERMILK FRENCH TOAST for 30 minutes or until soft and in a hot oven for a few minutes,
SPICED BAKED BEANS Whisk 100ml buttermilk with browned. Whizz in a blender then top with goat’s cheese, hot
Fry ½ chopped onion and 4 2 medium free-range eggs, or food processor (or mash smoked salmon and a little dill.
chopped streaky bacon rashers 1 tbsp sugar and 1 tsp ground in a bowl) to a purée. Stir in
until the onion is soft and the cinnamon. Dip sourdough 3 tbsp petimezi, 1 tbsp olive oil, SAUERKRAUT

WORDS: OLIVIA SPURRELL AND EMILY HUDSON. ILLUSTRATIONS: ALICE CLEARY

bacon is crisp. Stir in 1 crushed slices in the mixture and fry in 1 tsp smoked paprika and some GUT-FRIENDLY
FROM HOT
garlic clove and 1 tsp smoked sizzling butter on each side salt and pepper to taste. Serve DOGS WITH
BRUNCH
paprika and cook for 1 minute. until golden. Serve with golden with toasted pitta bread or SAUERKRAUT & Toast slices
CRISPY FRIED
Add a 400g tin of drained and syrup, fresh berries and yogurt. vegetable crudités. ONIONS of wholemeal
P85
rinsed cannellini beans, 100ml sourdough, top
tomato passata and 2 tbsp PETIMEZI (GRAPE RYE BREAD with wilted spinach, smashed
chipotle paste, cook until thick, MOLASSES) CRUNCHY avocado, a squeeze of lemon
FROM
then season. Serve on toast. MIDDLE BROWN CRUMB and a poached egg. Finish with
BUTTER
FROM EASTERN CARAMEL Bake slices of a large spoonful of sauerkraut
BUTTERMILK HAZELNUT,
APPLE & TAHINI DRESSING
& RYE BREAD
GELATO rye bread on a and a pinch of chilli flakes.
PASTRY P22
BLUE CHEESE CIGARS P111 Mix 1 tbsp baking tray for PEPPED-UP POTATO SALAD
FROM HAM DRESSING petimezi with 20-30 minutes at 160°C/140°C Search for ‘new potato salad’ at
HOCK, PEA
& APPLE Using a fork, 1 tbsp moscatel (or white wine) fan/gas 3 until completely dried deliciousmagazine.co.uk. Stir
POTATO
SALAD P77 mash 50g blue vinegar and 3 tbsp olive oil. Add out. Whizz in a food processor a few spoonfuls of sauerkraut
cheese with lemon juice to taste and a pinch with a pinch of sea salt flakes. into the potato salad for a tangy
2 tbsp buttermilk in a bowl. Stir of ground sumac if you have it. Use to add texture to smoked flavour and added texture.

98 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 BE A BE T TER COOK

BE A BE T TER COOK
1 0 PA G E S O F T I P S A N D K N OW - H OW T O G ET YO U C O O K I N G
S M A R T E R , FA ST E R A N D W I T H G R E AT E R C O N F I D E N C E
M E ET
OUR
EXPERTS CHEF’S STEP
BY STEP p107

AUGUS T 2018
Hand-rolled
trofie pasta from
Adam Banks,
head chef at
JEN Fifteen Cornwall
BEDLOE
Food
editor

→
SOPHIE delicious.
AUSTEN-SMITH KITCHEN p100
Deputy
food editor Cookery tips
and tricks,
including how
to blind-bake a
pastry tart case

OLIVIA
SPURRELL
Cookery
assistant
→ GO SLOW p104
Achieve smoky,
fall-apart beef
brisket in The
Weekend Project
LUCAS
HOLLWEG
Chef and
food writer

XANTHE
CLAY
Chef, writer,
and preserves
& freezing
queen

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 99
THIS MONTH IN THE delicious. KITCHEN...
While the delicious. team are testing recipes, they’re often debating the best ways to do
things, as well as answering cooking questions that arise in the test kitchen. What’s the difference
between onglet, hanger and skirt steak? How do you get the most juice from a lemon? Who has
a handy way to pit a cherry? What is aquafaba? Isn’t all mozzarella buffalo mozzarella? It’s the kind
of information you won’t find anywhere else, and it will help take your cooking to the next level.
SE A SON’S E ATINGS
BLACKCURRANTS
We’ve used a ready-made blackcurrant
jam in our gorgeous cover star ice
cream recipe on p23, but if you find
yourself with a glut of homegrown
or stumble across them at a market,
here’s a recipe to preserve the bounty:
Easy blackcurrant jam
1 Put 500g washed picked
blackcurrants in a large heavy-based
saucepan and cover with 250ml cold
water. Bring to the boil and simmer
until the fruit bursts and softens.
Add 500g granulated sugar and the
juice of 1 lemon.
2 Stir over a low heat until the sugar
has dissolved, then bring to a
rolling boil and bubble for 5-8
minutes or until setting point
is reached (around 105°C on
a sugar thermometer).
3 Pour into warm sterilised
jars, cover the surface with
waxed discs and seal
with lids while still warm.
Steaks for the grill BUTCHER
’S
Once it was a choice between fillet,
rump, sirloin or rib-eye, but steak has
CUTS
broadened its horizons. Look out for the
following cuts, available at good butchers:
ONGLET/HANGER/SKIRT A strong flavoured steak with
ONGLET/HANGER
a dark colour and open texture. Cut from under the
diaphragm, the whole hanger has a membrane down
the middle, which is removed to give two strips of
meat. Onglet (its French name) should be cooked no
more than medium rare or it can become tough
(2-3 minutes on each side over a high heat is usually
enough), then rested and sliced across the grain
before serving. It loves a marinade, too.
FLAT IRON An American cut, taken from the shoulder.
It’s actually the same bit of the animal as feather
FLAT IRON blade but with the central seam of gristle removed
so you end up with two uniformly thick slabs of meat
that work well on the griddle. These look like the base
of an old-fashioned metal iron – hence the name.
The meat is dense, with a robust flavour, and best
cooked no more than medium rare. Sear first, then
turn down the heat a little to finish cooking. Rest well.
TRI-TIP Another American cut, less common than the
other two but worth looking out for. It’s a triangular
cut from where the bottom of the rump meets the
TRI-TIP flank (the French called it ‘aiguillette baronne’). It
has a juicy, slightly open texture, with a rump-like
flavour. Sear over a high heat, then finish in the oven.
TR EN D INGR EDIENT
Coconut sugar
Move over agave syrup – this year it’s all about coconut
sugar. Made using the sap from coconut flowerbud
stems, this palm sugar from southeast Asia is being
promoted as a ‘healthy’ alternative to refined sugars.
It’s a moot point as, however natural it is, it’s still
sugar. But if you want a rich flavour, this has it in
spades, combining the sweetness of brown sugar with
deep caramel notes. Try on pancakes, fruit puds,
porridge or even in homemade barbecue sauce.
 3 BRILLIANT BARBECUE SALSAS

Just what you need for slathering onto burgers, grilled meat, chicken and fish
1 ARGENTINIAN SALSA CRIOLLA
Cut 500g cored and deseeded tomatoes,
1 red onion and 1 green pepper into
0.5cm cubes. Add 2 tbsp each red wine
vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil, 3 tbsp
chopped fresh flatleaf parsley, 1 tsp
dried oregano and a pinch of chilli flakes.
Season with salt and pepper and leave
to stand for 2 hours. Check
BE A BETTER COOK
COOK’S
TIP
No cherry
salt and ground black pepper and 2 tbsp pitter? Don’t
boiling water. Slowly whisk in 125ml worry – here’s
extra-virgin olive oil to emulsify, then how to stone a cherry
stir in the chopped ingredients. Season to
taste. Set aside for 1 hour before serving.
Push down on the cherry
3 MOJO VERDE with the flat edge of a chef’s
Put a small bunch of fresh coriander knife to squash it. The stone
in a food processor with 1 garlic clove, will easily come away.
¼ tsp ground cumin, 2 pinches

delicious. KITCHEN
the seasoning and add of caster sugar, the juice of
Alternatively (and this keeps
more vinegar to taste. ½ lemon and 2 tbsp water. the cherry intact), open out
2 CAPER PICKLE SAUCE Whizz to a paste, then a large paper clip once, so
Finely chop 1 ripe mix in 5 tbsp olive oil
it still has a hook, then push
tomato, 1 shallot, to loosen. Season well
1 cornichon and with salt and pepper into the top of the cherry.
1 tbsp capers. Mix and leave to stand for When you feel the stone,
2 tbsp red wine 30 minutes. Taste and add twist the clip, push it past
vinegar with ½ tsp each more lemon or oil if needed.
the stone and hook it out.

All about the pulse (it’s on the rise)

BY LUCAS HOLLWEG
Although we might
occasionally dip into a pot
of houmous, crack open a
tin of baked beans or order lentil dhal with
our curry, we lag far behind the rest of the
world when it comes to eating pulses – the
dried form of leguminous vegetables such
as chickpeas and lentils. But with calls
to eat less meat and the recent rise in
veganism, pulses are gaining in popularity.
DID YOU KNOW…?
• The thick liquid from cooked (and tinned)
pulses is called aquafaba – bean juice – and
can be used in vegan cooking in place of
eggs and egg whites. Chickpea aquafaba is
particularly popular. Use as an emulsifier
(in vegan mayo, for instance – blitz for
10 seconds with mustard, vinegar, oil and
salt – and even ice cream) or whip to use
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
houmous and falafel, to split yellow peas
(great in dhals) and carlin peas (aka black
badger peas) that are a great earthy
alternative to chickpeas.
• Pulses are the only food that are classed
as both a vegetable and a protein.
Although chickpeas and lentils are
what’s known as ‘incomplete’
proteins, they become ‘complete’
when combined with whole grains,
providing the amino acids the body
needs. They’re also gluten free,
low in cholesterol and a good
source of fibre, folate, calcium,
iron, zinc and vitamin C.
• Pulse growing is resource-
friendly. Growing 1kg pulses
uses as little as a tenth as
much water as it takes to
produce 1kg beef.
• The first British Dal Festival

in vegan cakes, meringues and mousses. was held in Bristol in March. It

If the liquid is watery, it needs reducing to
the thickness of egg white before use.
• British-grown pulses are having a revival.
The sustainable Suffolk farmers Hodmedod
grow a wide range of edible pulses, from
haricot and fava beans, which make robust
saw a city-wide celebration of
pulse dishes from across the world.
• Pulses are known for their, erm,
explosive qualities – but adding ginger,
cumin and fennel seed is thought to
moderate their windy effects. →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 101

TECHNIQU EHow to line and
blind-bake a pastry tart case
A B
C D
Hankering after the quiches in our Hall of Fame feature? Starting
with the pastry you’ve made and chilled (see p26), here’s a foolproof
way to create the crisp pastry case to hold all that savoury filling.
1 Unwrap the chilled pastry and
roll out on a lightly floured
surface to the thickness of a £1
coin [A]. Hold the tart tin over
the top to see if the pastry is big
enough to line the base and
sides. If not, roll a bit more.
2 Once you’re happy with the
size, carefully roll the pastry
loosely onto the rolling pin, then
unroll over the top of the tart tin
[B]. Ease the pastry into the tin,
being careful not to tear it.
3 Tear off a bit of the excess
pastry, roll into a small ball
and wrap in cling film. Use it to
press the pastry into the edges
of the tin [C]. If the pastry tears,
patch up the hole with a little
more of the excess pastry.
COOK’S Give lemons
TIP and limes a
firm roll on the work
surface before squeezing to
release their juice more easily.
If they feel very hard, microwave
first for 10-15 seconds.
W H AT’S THE DIFFER ENCE ?
KNOW YOUR MOZZARELLAS
Regular mozzarella is a soft, milky cheese originally
made in southern Italy using water buffalo milk.
Nowadays cow’s milk is often used instead and
the cheese is made all over Italy and beyond.
Hard mozzarella is a low-moisture variety that’s
less ‘wet’ when melted. Often called pizza
mozzarella, it’s bought ready-grated and in
blocks. The smoked version is is known as
scamorza affumicata.
Buffalo mozzarella has a slightly looser texture
and more robust flavour than the cow’s milk
version. Although mozzarella di bufala is made
all over Italy (and in the UK, too, by places such
as Laverstoke Park), traditional cheese from
four regions of southern Italy has protected
status as Mozzarella di Bufala Campana PDO.
Bocconcini literally ‘little mouthfuls’, these are
bite-size mozzarella balls. They’re great for
scattering into a salad or using in canapés
– on a cocktail stick with a basil leaf and half
a cherry tomato or deep-fried in a crumb
4 When the tin is lined, cut off
any overhanging pastry by
running a knife along the edge of
coating for a gloriously melty bite.
Burrata is a rich, creamy variation (the name
means ‘buttery’). Before the mozzarella ball is
the tin. Gently press the pastry fully formed, the centre is filled with a mixture
into the flutes and prick the base of scraps of mozzarella (stracciatella) and
with a fork [D]. Chill the tart tin in fresh cream. When the ball is torn or cut open,
the fridge or freezer until firm. the cream oozes deliciously from the middle.
5 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C
fan/gas 6. Line the chilled
case with baking paper or foil,
• For recipes visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk
then fill to the top with ceramic
baking beans or uncooked rice.
6 Bake on the middle oven shelf
for 15 minutes, remove the
baking beans/uncooked rice and
baking paper/foil, then bake for
a further 5-8 minutes or until the
pastry feels sandy to the touch.
Take out of the oven, adjust the
temperature accordingly and fill.

By CJ Jackson, CEO of The Seafood School at
Billingsgate and Seafish UK ambassador
There’s so much beautiful seafood to be had at
this time of year – and summer is the ideal time
to experiment in the kitchen as we crave lighter
eating on glorious hot-weather days.
1 SAMPHIRE
In season in the UK now,
this fashionable sea vegetable
is a hardy halophyte (salt
tolerant plant) with a great
salty taste and succulent
crunch. There are two main
types of samphire: rock
and marsh. It’s the latter
that’s most often seen in
fishmongers. Known by many
names including salicornia,
pickle weed, glasswort and
sea bean, it’s extensively
farmed in Mexico, Israel and
France, although it grows wild
on salt flats and marshes in
Europe, North America, South
Africa and Asia.
Great way to cook… It’s easy to
prepare. Simply remove any
tough woody stalks, blanch in
boiling water for 30 seconds,
refresh under cold water, then
drain well. Stir-fry with chilli,
cashew nuts and sesame
seeds to serve as a veggie side
or serve it hot or cold, drizzled
with olive oil alongside whole
roast salmon.
2 BROWN SHRIMP
These tiny crustaceans,
available in the UK, are
caught in waters from
Norway to the
Mediterranean
and most
famously
Morecambe
BE A BETTER COOK
Bay in Lancashire. They’re a
light chocolate brown colour
and are usually sold cooked
(either in the shell, peeled or
delicious. KITCHEN
ready potted). The size
makes them fiddly and time
consuming to peel. Although
they’re sold all year round,
they’re at their best in late
spring and summer.
Great ways to cook… Either
pot them in butter infused with HOW TO…
mace and pepper, then serve
with Melba toast, or add to
beurre noisette (brown butter) PREP RUNNER BEANS
with parsley and lemon to They’re a traditional treat of British summertime,
spoon over white fish fillets delivering a fresh green, juicy flavour. Picked young,
such as Dover sole or hake. If runner beans can be tender enough to eat raw,
still in their shells, pull off the though larger beans require care before cooking.
heads and eat the rest whole
with a glass of champagne. FIRST, TEST A BEAN FOR TENDERNESS If there are any
strings, remove them by shaving off the edges as
3 STONE BASS
It isn’t usually a true bass,
but a marketing word for
lightly as possible with a swivel peeler. Large beans
sometimes develop a hard, scale-like layer inside
the pods. This means they’re too old and won’t be
meagre or corvina. Available pleasant to eat, whatever you do to them.
wild as well as farmed, the sea SLICE FINELY on the diagonal before cooking – you can
fish is a relative newcomer to buy shredders designed specifically for the job. With
the world of aquaculture. It has young beans though, it’s better to cut them into
a heavy jacket of gleaming thumb-length pieces as both the shape and fleshy
bronze scales and gives wild texture are more satisfying.
sea bass a run for its money
in size and flavour. Stone bass
is also another name for
TRY THEM COLD, TOO Plunge into cold water to cool
as soon as they’re cooked, drain well and toss
with green leaves, or on their own, with a punchy
wreckfish, which are becoming mustard dressing.
popular as an alternative to the IF YOU GROW YOUR OWN, decorate salads with a
endangered wild bass caught scattering of the bright edible runner bean flowers.
around the UK coast. It’s
available whole or filleted.
Great ways to cook… It’s
traditionally used for making
NEW VIDEOS ONLINE NOW See
delicious.
ceviche, where it’s marinated Want to improve your kitchen skills? Visit expertise in
in chilli, lime zest and juice (the deliciousmagazine.co.uk & discover how action!
fish must be frozen first to get
to… Build a pizza oven • Make Mary Berry’s
rid of parasites). It’s also great
cooked in a salt crust and Malteser cake • Make an all-in-one white
served with wasabi aïoli. sauce • Roll your own pasta • Bake focaccia
with vine tomatoes – and much more
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 103

SLOW-COOKED
BARBECUED BEEF
Brisket can be a tough joint, but this recipe guarantees fall-apart-tender meat with
a Mexican flavour that will make your taste buds sit up and take notice
Sticky Mexican-style
barbecued beef brisket
with quick-pickled onions
SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME
5½ HOURS, GRILL/BARBECUE TIME 10 MIN, PLUS
MARINATING
Complete up to the end of step
MAKE
AHEAD 2 up to 48 hours in advance.
Complete up to the end of step
6 up to 24 hours in advance, allow the
meat and sauce to cool separately, then
cover and chill until ready to finish.
FOOD
The meat is first slow-cooked,
TEAM’S then finished on the barbecue.
TIPS
For the first stage, the time it
takes for the meat to become fully
tender depends on which part of the
brisket it’s been cut from. It’s ready once
the fibres pull apart easily with a fork. If
it’s not quite ready, set the timer for an
extra 30 minutes, then check again.
If you prefer to cook the beef indoors
rather than barbecue it, heat the grill to
medium-high and cook as in steps 7-8.
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 red onion, chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, crushed
• 1 tbsp ground cumin
• 1 tbsp ground coriander
• 1-2 green or yellow jalapeños, sliced
• 2 tbsp chipotle paste
• 6 tbsp dark muscovado sugar
• 2.25kg British beef brisket
• 3 dried cascabel chillies (available
from Waitrose, Ocado or online from
souschef.co.uk)
• 500ml good quality beef stock
• 250ml fruity red wine
104 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
THE WEEKEND PROJECT
• 200ml fresh orange juice
• 200ml passata
FOR THE QUICK-PICKLED ONIONS
• 2 red onions, thinly sliced
• Juice 3 limes
• 1 tbsp sea salt
TO SERVE
• Large handful fresh coriander,
roughly chopped
• Sliced green or yellow jalapeños
• 2 ripe avocados, chopped
• Juice ½ lime, plus extra wedges
• Steamed rice or warm tortillas
1 Heat the oil in a large, deep frying
pan. Add the chopped onion and fry for
5 minutes or until beginning to colour.
Stir in the garlic, cumin, coriander,
jalapeños, chipotle paste and sugar,
season generously with salt and
pepper, then cook for 1 minute more.
Remove from the heat and allow to
cool. If you like a smooth consistency,
whizz in a mini food processor or pound
in a pestle and mortar (optional).
2 Rub the cooled onion and spice
marinade all over the brisket, then
transfer to a large food bag with any
leftover marinade. Marinate for
at least 2 hours or ideally overnight
in the fridge (see Make Ahead).
3 Meanwhile, for the pickled onions, toss
the sliced onions with the lime juice and
salt in a glass bowl, then leave for at
least 2 hours until they’ve turned pink.
4 Put the dried chillies, stock, wine,
orange juice and passata in a large jug
and stir until well combined.
5 Once ready to slow-cook, heat the
oven to 140°C/120°C fan/gas 1. Put the
brisket and any marinade from the bag
in a large, deep roasting tin and pour
over the stock mixture (including the
chillies). Cover the meat with a layer of
baking paper, then tightly cover the tin
with 2 layers of foil, scrunching the
edges to form a tight seal. Slow cook
for 5-5½ hours, turning the meat over
in the roasting tin halfway through the
cooking time.
6 Once the brisket is fully tender (see
tips) remove from the oven and set
aside on a chopping board, loosely
covered, to rest. Carefully pour the
cooking liquid from the roasting tin into
a saucepan and bubble over a high heat
for 25-30 minutes to reduce to a sauce
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH. STYLING: WEI TANG
consistency. Taste and adjust the
seasoning (see Make Ahead).
7 When ready to barbecue, light the
gas/coals and wait for the grill to heat
up/the coals to glow white (or see tips).
Brush a little of the reduced sauce over
the brisket and barbecue (or grill) for
5 minutes on each side, basting every
two minutes with more sauce to create
a charred, sticky crust.
8 To serve, mix the coriander,
jalapeños, avocados and lime juice in
a bowl and serve alongside the brisket
with the quick-pickled onions and
steamed rice or warm tortillas.
PER SERVING (FOR 8) 533kcals, 20.7g
fat (7.3g saturated), 61.9g protein, 17.9g
carbs (16.6g sugars), 2.9g salt, 1.9g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A Chilean
carmenère, typically a ripe and slightly
spicy red, would be a real treat here.
BE A BETTER COOK WEEKEND PROJECT
 BE A BETTER COOK
CHEF’S STEP BY STEP
CHEF’S STEP BY STEP

TROFIE PASTA
with watercress, courgette and almonds
by Adam Banks
This is a great dish to cook to impress guests . You
don’t need a fancy gadget but you do need to master the
technique for making the pasta. What’s fantastic about PHOTOGRAPHS
MIKE ENGLISH
the sauce is that you can change it depending on what’s FOOD STYLING
in season. I like to use wild garlic or asparagus in SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH
spring, watercress throughout the summer and cavolo STYLING
nero in winter. ADAM BANKS, HEAD CHEF AT FIFTEEN CORNWALL VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 107
 A B

ADAM’S STORY
He worked as senior sous chef at
Jamie Oliver’s Cornish outpost
from 2005-2011 and, after working
in Australia and at the Star & Garter pub in Falmouth,
he returned to Fifteen Cornwall as head chef last spring.
The restaurant’s rustic, Italian-inspired food is perfectly
matched by Adam’s passion for using seasonal and local
ingredients. Profits go to Fifteen Cornwall’s registered
charity, Cornwall Food Foundation, which has trained

F G
more than 100 apprentice chefs over the past decade.

Trofie pasta with watercress,
courgette and almonds
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS RESTING
Make the pasta dough up to 2 days
MAKE
AHEAD ahead and keep wrapped in cling
film in the fridge. The shaped trofie
will keep somewhere cool for up to a day in
an airtight container (see Adam’s tips, right).
FOOD It’s easy to make this recipe vegan
TEAM’S by omitting the cheese or using a
TIP
vegan alternative.
• 200g fine semolina, plus extra to dust
(optional; see Adam’s tips)
• 100ml freshly boiled water from a kettle
• 400g watercress (see Adam’s tips)
• Pinch flaky sea salt (we used Maldon),
plus extra to serve
• 50-100ml olive oil
• 2 medium courgettes
• 50g fresh mint
• 100g whole blanched almonds, toasted
• Finely grated zest and juice 1 lemon
• Mature pecorino (or vegetarian
alternative) to serve
• Extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle
1 Put the semolina in a heatproof bowl and
add the hot water [A]. Stir to make a dough,
then leave until cool enough to handle.
2 Knead the dough on a clean work surface
until smooth. If the dough is tacky and
sticking to the surface it’s slightly too wet,
so dust both work surface and dough with
a little more fine semolina and keep working
the dough [B]. Roll it into a ball [C], then
wrap in cling film and leave to rest for
30 minutes (not in the fridge).
3 While the dough is resting, pick through
the watercress and reserve half the
best-looking pieces [D]. Chop the rest of
the watercress finely and pound in a pestle
and mortar with a pinch of sea salt flakes
and olive oil [E]. Start with 50ml oil and
add more as required – you’re looking
for a thick pesto-like consistency.
4 Peel the courgettes into thin ribbons
using a Y-shaped vegetable peeler [F].
Pick the mint leaves from their stalks
and lightly crush the toasted almonds
in a pestle and mortar. Set aside.
5 Unwrap the rested dough, pull off
a piece the size of a small marble and roll
into a ball, then roll on the work surface
into a sausage shape the width of the first
three fingers of your hand [G].
6 Now for the slightly frustrating but most
rewarding (once you’ve cracked it) part:
shaping the trofie. Move your thumb to the
far end of the sausage-shaped dough and
in one motion, applying gentle pressure,
pull the dough back towards you with your
thumb at a slight angle moving away from
you in a kind of arc. The dough will twist up
against your thumb and will look like a

108 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 T I M E S AV E R
T I P...
If you’re short on time,
buy good quality dried
trofie or swap for
orecchiette or
tagliatelle.
C D
H I
spiral shell [H]. Repeat with the remaining
pasta dough. (If you don’t get on with this
technique, you can try shaping the dough
in the palm of your hand under your thumb:
roll your thumb backwards applying
pressure while pushing your hand away
from you in a swooping motion so the
dough rolls under your thumb – see
Adam’s tips, right.)
7 Leave the trofie to firm up while you
bring a large saucepan of salted water
to the boil. Once boiling, add the trofie [I]
and cook for 4-6 minutes (checking after
4 minutes) until just al dente.
8 Meanwhile, set another large pan over a
medium heat, then add 2-3 tablespoons of
the pasta cooking water. Stir in the raw
unblended watercress so it starts to wilt,
then add the courgette ribbons and stir
to wilt for 1-2 minutes over the heat.
9 Drain the pasta, reserving a few more
tablespoons of the pasta cooking water.
Add the drained trofie to the pan with the
wilted watercress and courgettes and toss
together well. Add the watercress sauce,
lemon zest and juice to the pan [J] and toss
together to combine. If the sauce is too thick
to coat the trofie, add some or all of the
reserved pasta water to loosen it a little.
10 Add most of the crushed almonds and
a good grating of pecorino/vegetarian
cheese alternative to the trofie and toss
together once more. Transfer to a large
serving plate, drizzle over some extra-
virgin olive oil, scatter over the mint leaves
and sprinkle with the remaining almonds,
sea salt flakes and some more grated
pecorino/vegetarian alternative, if you like.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 332kcals, 18.8g fat
(2.2g saturated), 11.1g protein, 27.2g carbs
(1.8g sugars), 0.1g salt, 4.4g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Rich whites may
overwhelm this so go for a light, refreshing
Italian such as gavi or pecorino.
BE A BETTER COOK
CHEF’S STEP BY STEP
E
J
ADAM’S TIPS FOR SUCCESS
→ If you’re making the pasta
ahead, dust with rice flour instead
of semolina. I was taught this tip
by Gennaro Contaldo and it really
helps to keep the moisture out of
the pasta.
→ As a change from almonds, use
pine nuts, pistachios or hazelnuts
– or use up a mix of what you have
available in your storecupboard.
It might take a few goes to
get the trofie technique right
– to see a video of Adam rolling
the trofie (step 6) visit delicious
magazine.co.uk/trofie-pasta.
NEXT MONTH
Chef Alex Jackson’s
Mediterranean fish stew
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 109
 TEST
REPORT
THE COOKERY SCHOOL
WHERE Oliveology, The
Cookhouse, Borough Market,
London SE1 (oliveology.co.uk)
THE COURSE Greek Vegetarian
Workshop, £65 (half day); includes lunch,
goodie bag and 10 per cent off future
purchases and workshops
TESTER Abigail Dodd
WHAT IT’S LIKE Marianna Kolokotroni began
Oliveology, which specialises in quality
organic food straight from Greece, as
a stall in London’s Borough Market in
2009. Her family farm in Sparta, in the
Peloponnese, is a main supplier, providing
herbs, citrus fruit, nuts and olives. In 2016
Marianna was offered a permanent shop
space and the business has since grown
steadily, branching out to occasional
cooking and wine workshops in Borough
Market’s well-equipped demonstration
kitchen, high above the main gate.
Marianna introduced us to Despina
Siahuli, an Athenian chef who’s worked
in London kitchens as diverse as St John
and E5 Bakehouse. There were 10 of us on
the course. Most had travelled to Greece
and loved the food and its emphasis on
freshness and seasonality. My 18-year-old
vegetarian daughter was with me, hoping
to take away some useful recipes for when
she starts university next month.
WHAT I LEARNED We made four dishes: fava;
butternut squash, feta and trahana pie;
wild mushroom fricassée; and hazelnut,
apple and tahini filo pastries. The Greek
dish fava (not to be confused with fresh
broad beans or dried fava beans) is a
simple, sustaining dish made from yellow
110 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
SUMMER HOLIDAY
Squash, feta and
trahana pie is the
essence of Greece
split peas, which I’d enjoyed in Crete
and Cefalonia. We chopped and sautéed
onions and garlic, added carrots and the
split peas, then left them to simmer
before whizzing to a luscious dip.
Trahana, used in the second dish, is a
fermented mixture of grains (semolina,
bulgur or cracked wheat) combined with
milk, yogurt or buttermilk and dried in the
sun. Its sour tang and granular texture
work well with the soft sweetness of
butternut squash. After making the filling,
we moved on to the tricky bit. Filo has
always daunted me but Despina dispelled
my nerves. The secret is to keep your stash
covered with a damp cloth and make
generous use of olive oil on a pastry brush.
We sat at the communal table chopping,
rolling up filo and sharing our Greek travel
experiences, picking up tips on islands
to visit next; it felt like a holiday reunion.
A catherine wheel pie laced with feta and
mint and encrusted with sesame seeds
made a golden centrepiece to our lunch.
The wild mushroom fricassée was
so deliciously savoury it converted my
THE TAKE-HOME TIPS
By expert teacher Despina Siahuli
• Use olive oil in sweet
as well as savoury
dishes. Buy the best
you can afford and
make it extra-virgin, if possible.
• With the right combination of herbs
and flavourings the simplest ingredients
become far more than a sum of their parts.
fungiphobe daughter into a mushroom
lover. It was a quick, easy, full-flavoured
dish, with complexity from dill, fennel,
nutmeg, mint and the addition of a piece
of cheese rind (whipped out at the end).
The filling for our final dish was a
mouthwatering mix of fruit and nuts
spiked with marinated currants, orange,
cinnamon, honey and the unmistakable
flavour of tahini. The smell was heavenly
as we stirred. We were shown how to roll
the filling into filo cigars or fold it into
triangles like mini samosas. The results
were crisp, delicate parcels of rich fruitiness
with the warmth of sesame and hazelnut.
RECIPES: OLIVEOLOGY. PHOTOGRAPH: LIZZIE MAYSON. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE
THE VERDICT We learned a great deal about
Greece and its culture, as well as its food.
My only criticism was that the feta and
trahana pie and the apple pastries were
rather similar to make. Both were really
tasty but I would like to have tried another
technique from the Greek kitchen. The
dishes we cooked and ate embodied the
country I have such fond memories of:
warm, relaxed and exciting, full of textural
contrasts and fulsome flavours.
• Keep unwrapped filo covered with a
damp cloth and treat it gently but firmly.
• Don’t throw away cheese rinds. Add to
soups and stews for deep savoury notes.
• Don’t be afraid to bring your favourite
recipe ideas back from holiday and
re-create them at home. It’s only the local
liquor that often doesn’t travel well!

THE MAKE-AT-HOME RECIPE
Hazelnut, apple and tahini
pastry cigars
MAKES 24. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, PLUS SOAKING,
OVEN TIME 20 MIN
Make the hazelnut filling up to
MAKE 48 hours ahead and store in an
AHEAD
airtight container in the fridge.
Petimezi is grape molasses.
KNOW- Drizzle it over pancakes or yogurt.
HOW
Buy it at oliveology.co.uk. If you
can’t find grape molasses, you can use
pomegranate molasses instead.
• 75g currants or sultanas (ideally Greek)
• 45g petimezi (see Know-how)
• 25ml orange blossom water
• 100g toasted hazelnuts, finely ground
• 100g tahini, plus extra for drizzling
• 100g Greek fir honey (from oliveology.
com, Sainsbury’s or good delis), plus
extra for drizzling
• Grated zest and juice 1 orange
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon, plus extra
for sprinkling
• 200g cox apple, grated
• 6 filo pastry sheets
• Olive oil for brushing
1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4.
Line 2 baking sheets with baking paper.
Put the currants or sultanas in a large
bowl with the petimezi and orange blossom
water, then leave to soak for 30 minutes.
2 Stir in the hazelnuts, tahini, honey,
orange zest and juice, cinnamon and apple.
3 With the long side facing you, cut the filo
in the know.
sheets vertically into 4 even strips. Keep
covered under a damp tea towel.
4 Brush one strip with a little oil. Spread
a spoonful of filling onto one end of the
strip, leaving a 1cm border. Fold the
bottom of the sheet over the filling and roll
up the pastry, tucking in the sides as you
go. Transfer to a prepared baking sheet
and brush with a little extra oil.
5 Repeat with the remaining pastry strips,
then bake for 15-20 minutes until golden
brown. Allow to cool on the baking sheets.
6 Pile the cigars into a bowl, drizzle with
tahini, honey and a sprinkle of cinnamon.
PER PASTRY CIGAR 120kcals, 6.9g fat
(0.8g saturated), 2.6g protein, 11.3g carbs
(8.2g sugars), trace salt, 1.1g fibre
For more ways to use petimezi, see
Loose Ends →
THE COOKBOOK
Jamie Cooks Italy (Michael
Joseph £26, out 9 August)
TESTED BY Susan Low
For this new book – his 21st, remarkably
– Jamie is back on his home-from-home
territory, Italy. His previous book on Italy
was published way back in 2005, and for
this new one he’s enlisted his best mate
and mentor Gennaro Contaldo. The pair
travelled the length and breadth of the
country over a year researching the places,
dishes – and people – that make Italy’s
food great. In addition to this cookbook,
their findings will be the subject of a
Channel 4 television series.
The book is more than just a collection
of recipes; it has a deeper purpose: helping
to preserve Italy’s traditional regional
recipes. Jamie writes: “I’ve noticed a shift
in Italian food culture. The time-honoured
traditions and recipes of the true
matriarchs of the kitchen, the nonnas and
mammas that are the beating heart of the
Italian home, are at risk of being lost.”
And it’s the contributions from these
“nonnas and mammas” that set this
book apart. Among the rather amazing
cast of matriarchs are Nonna Maria, a
fisherwoman (the only female) from
the tiny island of Procida off the coast of
Naples; Nonna Elena, the last Jewish
nonna from the Tuscan town of Pitigliano;
and Nonna Franchina, the 92-year-old
custodian of traditional recipes from
the Aeolian Islands.
QUALITY OF THE RECIPES The dishes from the
pantheon of matriarchs are a strong point
of the book. There are recipes from Jamie,
too, that he describes as “a real mix of fast
and slow cooking, familiar classics as well as
new things… and simple everyday dishes
alongside more fantastical, indulgent,
labour-of-love options for weekends”.
For my two to try, I settled on one from
Jamie and one from Nonna Mercedes,
who comes from a small town in the
Aosta Valley in the north of Italy and is
among the few remaining descendants of
Italy’s Walser community, who speak their
own language and trace their ancestral
roots back to Switzerland and Germany.
First up, Jamie’s flaky fish fritters made
with cod, potato, smoky scamorza cheese
and capers. The fritters may not scream of
Italian traditions, but they tasted fantastic
(in fact, the four of us easily scoffed the
lot, which was meant to serve six). Jamie’s
technique of salting the cod for an hour to
remove excess moisture really works: the
cakes held together well during cooking,
had a firm texture and plenty of flavour.
Nonna Mercedes’ chnéffléné (‘teardrop’
dumplings) are made with a batter of
IRRESISTIBLE
ITALIAN NIBBLES
Flaky fish
fritters with
quick salt cod
semolina, flour, milk and eggs that’s
pushed through the holes of a colander
into boiling water. They’re similar to
spätzle, which my best friend’s Bavarian
mother used to make for me when I was a
youngster, and are relatively easy (if a bit
messy) to make. With a sauce of roasted
red onions and bacon they’re rib-sticking
enough to chase away wintry Alpine
chills, not to mention supremely tasty.
PHOTOGRAPHY AND DESIGN The photos by
David Loftus – on location, portrait
and food shots – are beautiful. In terms
of format, though, the book feels a tad
disjointed. Chapters are divided by
course (antipasti, soups, meat, fish…),
rather than by region, with the profiles
of the matriarchs peppered throughout.
As a consequence, the women’s stories
get a bit lost, and it’s also tricky to pick
up on Italy’s regional cooking differences.
It’s a function, no doubt, of trying to
accommodate both a television
programme and a book that allows
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID LOFTUS
readers to find recipes in a logical way.
WHO’S THE BOOK SUITABLE FOR? The legions
of Jamie fans will relish this book, but
any aficionado of Italian food will find
plenty to pique their interest.
VERDICT ★ ★ ★ ★
 in the know.

HOT NE W COOKBOOKS

JACK STEIN’S WORLD THE NEW ART OF COOKING ZAITOUN CIBI

ON A PLATE
Growing up with parents who
were restaurateurs fuelled by
travel lust, Jack Stein got to
travel far and wide from a
young age, and the influence
of all those air miles is
evident in this collection of
recipes. Asian flavours are
prominent – as are the
flavours and ingredients of
his home base of Cornwall.
Bloomsbury £26
If you can’t tuck into your
food without snapping and
sharing it first, this ‘modern
guide to preparing and
styling delicious food’ from
Frankie Unsworth could
be the book for you. As you’d
expect, the photos are easy
on the eye; the Euro-inspired
recipes are appealing and
there’s plenty of sound
advice for hosts.
Bloomsbury £30
A collection of recipes and
stories from the Palestinian
kitchen by human-rights
campaigner and cook Yasmin
Khan, the inspiration gleaned
from travels in the Occupied
Palestinian Territories. The
book is personal and well
researched, with a strong
voice, appealing recipes and
beautiful photography: what
good food writing is all about.
Bloomsbury £26
Cibi is Japanese for ‘little
one’ and these family-friendly
Japanese-influenced recipes
from Melbourne-based
restaurateurs Meg and Zenta
Tanaka are accessible
enough to satisfy young and
curious palates. They’re also
simple to make at home
without fuss and they look
beautiful. East-meets-West
cooking, deliciously done.
Hardie Grant £22

THE TAS TE TES T MAYONNAISE

HOW WE TEST
Our panel are taste experts. We conduct our tests without packaging, so our
tasters don’t know who produced each product or how much it costs. And to
prevent one tester influencing another, the panel aren’t allowed to confer
during the tests, so the results you read below are unbiased.
TASTE TEST WORDS: PHOEBE STONE. BOOK REVIEWS: SUSAN LOW
WHAT WE LOOKED FOR
A good mayo should possess a rich, savoury flavour with a sharp, citrussy
edge. It should be well seasoned, not sweet or cloying, and have a creamy
consistency. The same goes for vegan versions, made with soya, maize, rice
or aquafaba (chickpea water).

SUPERMARKET SUPERMARKET BRANDED WINNER BRANDED BRANDED VEGAN WINNER VEGAN RUNNER-UP
WINNER RUNNER-UP Maille Mustard RUNNER-UP RUNNER-UP Follow Your Rubies In
Lidl Batts Real Aldi Mayonnaise, Delouis Heinz Heart Original The Rubble
Mayonnaise, Bramwells Real £2.85 for 320g, Mayonnaise, Seriously Good Vegenaise, Aquafaba Mayo,
59p for 500ml Mayonnaise, Ocado, Tesco, £2.55 for 250g, Mayonnaise, £3.49 for 340g, £2.99 for 210g,
This is a thick, 59p for 513g Sainsbury’s Ocado, Waitrose, £2.50 for 460g Sainsbury’s, Ocado, Whole
glossy mayo with Extra creamy Earthy egg and Sainsbury’s Velvety mayo Ocado Foods
a rich, rounded with a sharp kick punchy mustard Warming mustard with lots of body Creamy, light and Decent texture
flavour and and appealing flavours balanced taste and creamy and a pleasant full-flavoured – a and strong, salty,
good acidity. yellow colour. with citrus. mouthfeel. malt vinegar tang. clear winner. vinegary kick. →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 113
in the know.
THE GADGE T
THE GADGET Everdure
by Heston Blumenthal
Cube Portable
Charcoal Barbecue,
£149, lakeland.co.uk
TESTED BY Aggie MacKenzie
WHY BOTHER? If you’ve outgrown those
one-use aluminium foil jobs and
appreciate good design, this could
be the barbie to invest in.
WHAT’S GOOD ABOUT THIS ONE? It’s neat
and portable (weighs 7kg). Good
for camping or taking to the park on
a summery evening after work
(depending on the park rules, of
course!). The deep lift-off top can be
used for marinating or storing
utensils and the lid can be used as
a chopping board. The handles stay
cool so you can carry without fear of
scalding yourself. On the underside
is a shield that keeps the firebox hot
and surroundings cool, so you won’t
scorch anything. The steel grill is
easily removed for cleaning.
It’s described as being designed
to have a short warm-up time.
Not sure how it works but
indeed the coals were ready to
cook on in 15-20 minutes.
ANY DRAWBACKS? The carry bag,
although handsome, sturdy and
with an internal strap that keeps
the contraption secure, is about as
dear as the barbecue itself: £129.
THE VERDICT? Definitely worth
considering. A great looker that
is likely to serve you well for
A GOOD GRILLING
a good few years. You’d be hard-
Although pricey, this
pressed to justify paying for the portable barbie does
carry bag though. a respectable job
FOR THE CARNIVOROUS COOK WHO HAS (ALMOST) EVERYTHING
The Meater is a neat (the size of a small, slim pen), high tech meat thermometer that
takes the worry out of cooking meat. It operates with an app (so is wire-free) and lets you
know five minutes before your beef/pork/lamb/chicken is ready. All you have to do is
choose the type of meat and how you want it cooked, then your phone or tablet will beep
when it’s ready. If Alexa lives with you, she’ll be able to update you on the status of the
meat as it’s cooking. It’s impressive and a brilliant gadget for home use – and, frankly, for
showing off to your pals. Suitable for both barbie and domestic oven. £89.99, amazon.co.uk
 reader event.

JOIN GILL MELLER

FOR A COOKING
ADVENTURE AT
RIVER COTTAGE
delicious. editor Karen Barnes and River Cottage chef Gill Meller are hosting
a day of foraging, cooking and feasting in Devon. What a treat it will beÉ Just for
delicious.

D readers
iscover for yourself the
magic of River Cottage
as you’re transported by
tractor to the iconic 65-acre farm
nestled in the Axe valley. As one of
just 19 guests, you’ll spend the day
with Gill in this intimate setting,
unearthing the best seasonal
British ingredients from the
surrounding rural landscape
and coastline. You’ll also be given
the chance to explore the farm
throughout the day and see how
the team grow, nurture and harvest
their outstanding produce.
This unforgettable day will start
with an introduction to the farm and
activities over light refreshments.
Next up: five hands-on sessions
including foraging, organic bread-
baking and cooking, in which you’ll
Spend a day at
learn how to make the most
River Cottage,
of what’s in season. You’ll then a tranquil haven
prepare a starter, main course and of self-sufficiency
pudding using your new knowledge.
Enjoy the spoils of your day’s work
in the cosy 17th-century farmhouse memories of the day will last GET WHEN 9.30am to 5pm, Friday 14 Sep 2018
dining room as you sit down to feast
on the three-course menu. You’ll
a lifetime, each guest will also
receive a signed copy of Gill’s
TICKETS WHERE River Cottage HQ, Trinity Hill Road,
Axminster, Devon EX13 8TB
also have the chance to quiz Gill and beautiful new book Time – ahead
COST £240 per person including cooking class,
Karen in a relaxed Q&A session of publication. It’s the perfect River
food, Q&A and a signed book
over dessert. And while the Cottage memento to take home.

BOOK AT rivercottage.net/delicious or call 01297 630300

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 115
When only a trip to
the seaside will do…
Ah, to be down by the shore, with the cries of seabirds, the salt spray
and the fulsome larder of our seas to gorge on. But where to stay to
indulge in comfort? Look no further – we’ve scoured the length and
breadth of the nation’s coastline to find four favourite spots
 hungry traveller.

THE CHARMING ONE

THE IDLE ROCKS
St Mawes, Cornwall
BY KAREN BARNES

SEASIDE CREDS
Put aside thoughts of
dramatic Poldark-style cliffs – here,
instead, the gentle seascape of the
Fal estuary is right outside your
window. When you’re not out
exploring, I’ll wager you’ll lose an
hour a day gazing out at boats, sea
and sky. Better than a meditation
class any day. St Mawes is a large
fishing village fringed with a quaint
mix of cottages. There’s always lots
going on harbour-side, including gig
racing (Cornish rowing boats) and
boats coming and going. The village
is on a peninsula and the easiest way
to get there is via the King Harry
Ferry just beyond the National Trust
Trelissick Garden, especially in deftly matched. Highlights included
summer when roads are congested. softshell crab-filled ravioli, tender
The Idle Rocks is one of the best duck atop giant couscous laced
all-round hotel experiences we’ve with Middle Eastern flavours and
had, and I’ve been trying to quantify a chocolate-moussey parfait – not
what makes it so standout. I’ve to mention excellent cheese.
mentioned the view, and I’ll come Breakfasts are bountiful: local
to the food. The staff are so super- sausages and Cornish hog’s
helpful it’s like having a person pudding, pancakes (thin English,
who’s imagined what you need not chunky American), porridge
before you even know you need it. with a dollop of clotted cream,
Sit at the bar and a fine cocktail will yogurt, fruit and pastries. Another
be in front of you in moments. I had night, trot along the road to sister
a sloe gin sour and it was lush – or I establishment the St Mawes Hotel
CLOCKWISE FROM THIS PICTURE was a lush; I can’t quite remember. (complete with private cinema) or
Sunset views over St Mawes; miso And then there’s Sid, who will The Watch House fish restaurant
lamb neck; The Idle Rocks; luxurious
seaview rooms; chef Guy Owen leads proudly tell you he’s the only right next door.
the award-winning kitchen; relax in concierge in Cornwall. I go to the THE ROOMS There are cosy cottages
the brightly decorated lounge area with area often and know a lot of the next to the main hotel building, all
stand-out harbour views
local food gems, but Sid opened our with the same easy style. The beds
eyes to more – he has a special list. are high and wide and deep and
Another plus: all the communal once you’re in you won’t want to
spaces at The Idle Rocks face the get out. Bathrooms are as smart
*OFFER APPLIES TO STAYS UP TO 31 OCTOBER 2018

sea, and there’s a terrace the whole
way along. Yes, it’s all about the sea,
the sea, and the tones inside reflect
the blues, whites and splashes of
colour you see outside. It’s like a
glamorous beach hut on steroids.
THE FOOD Chef Guy Owen has won
several awards. The menu is
fine-dining in style, but rather than
a flavour overload, everything is
as you’d expect, with waterfall
showers, underfloor heating and a
mound of fluffy towels in a basket.
COST From £150 a night. Three-course
set menu £58, plus wine.
Book a two-night stay
SPECIAL
OFFER by phone, mentioning
delicious., and receive
a complimentary afternoon tea*.
idlerocks.com →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 117
 FROM THIS PICTURE The spectacular
view of Ornsay Lighthouse;
Scottish produce is the star at
Birlinn restaurant; rooms reflect
traditional Highland design; the
hotel’s gorgeous harbour setting
THE TRADITIONAL ONE
HOTEL EILEAN
IARMAIN
Isle of Skye, Scotland
BY JOAN RANSLEY
SEASIDE CREDS
The Isle of Skye, a
‘drive-on’ natural wonderland
accessed via the bridge from Kyle of
Lochalsh (or the Armadale ferry), is
celebrated for its glorious seascapes,
and this much-loved 19th-century
hotel on the island’s Sleat peninsula
has gorgeous views in abundance.
It overlooks the small tidal island of
Ornsay, once a busy herring port,
and there’s a pretty natural harbour
with views over the Sound of Sleat
and a lighthouse built by Robert
Louis Stevenson’s uncles.
Hotel Eilean Iarmain is part of
a 23,000-acre Scottish estate owned
by Lady Lucilla Noble who, together
with her late husband Sir Iain,
championed traditional Gaelic life
and language. There’s plenty of
things to do, with brown trout
fishing, sea kayaking, photography
courses, Argocat amphibious
safaris, wildlife walks, hunting with
ghillies from the estate and, if
you’re ready for the sharp intake of
breath, wild swimming.
THE FOOD The Birlinn restaurant
menu celebrates the best of Scottish
produce including Gartmorn Farm
duck, Scottish lamb and venison
from the estate. The harbour, which
you can see from the window,
provides langoustine, squat lobster
and mussels for the restaurant. Head
118 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
chef Virgil Tiskus is Lithuanian and
creates dishes that include locally
foraged ingredients, such as
mushrooms and wild garlic (when
in season), as well as local fruit such
as raspberries, strawberries,
cherries and blackberries.
The Am Pràban Bar serves hearty
bar meals in a relaxed atmosphere,
with regular cèilidh nights. This is
the place to meet the locals and hear
the mellifluous tones of the Gaelic
language. Breakfast highlights
include thick porridge, homemade
potato cakes and local bacon,
sausages and free-range eggs.
You can visit the hotel’s The Gaelic
Whiskies shop to enjoy a free tasting
of their award-winning premium
scotch. If you fancy making your
own gin, a local guide will take you
foraging for aromatics to infuse with
gin in a traditional mini copper still
before bottling to take home.
THE ROOMS Wood panelling gives a
traditional feel to the hotel and each
of the 12 comfortable bedrooms has
its own individual character – but
‘designer’ they are not. In addition,
there are four suites with stunning
sea views, cosy sitting rooms and
doorways to a garden with outdoor
*ALL OFFERS APPLY TO STAYS UP TO 31 OCTOBER 2018
tables and chairs for relaxing with
a glass of wine or a wee dram.
COST Doubles from £80 per night
low season, B&B (from £200 high
season). Dinner £45 for three
courses, plus wine.
Mention delicious. when
SPECIAL
OFFER you book a stay to receive
a complimentary bottle
of house red or white wine*.
eileaniarmain.co.uk

THE CHIC ONE
NORTH HOUSE
Cowes, Isle of Wight
BY FIONA SIMS
SEASIDE CREDS I sat wearing
my new stripy sailing
smock, sipping a Mermaid & tonic
(I’ll explain later) with the distant
clink of halyards against masts. The
setting was Cowes’ newest boutique
hotel North House, which opened
in 2016 on one of the town’s loveliest
streets. It may be a 23-minute ferry
ride from Southampton but it’s a
world away from the busy mainland.
Cowes is yachting central and in
Cowes Week (4-11 August), one of
the longest running sailing regattas
in the world, the town heaves with
rakishly uniformed crew and
thousands of spectators. The rest of
the year it putters along genteelly.
The beautifully renovated
townhouse is a short climb up Sun
Hill. It has 14 bedrooms, a heated
swimming pool, a buzzy bar and a
restaurant called The Oyster Store,
with views across the billowing
sails on the Solent to the Spinnaker
Tower in Portsmouth beyond.
Farrow & Ball paint and wallpaper
rule here, in the public rooms and
the bedrooms. Detail is all, from the
in-room digital Roberts radios to
the bicycles on free loan to guests.
So, that Mermaid: it’s an Island-
made gin using local samphire as
one of the botanicals, and it slipped
down a treat as the sun went down
on the lavender-filled terrace. In
PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES
hungry traveller.
fact, if it hadn’t been for the stiff
breeze I could almost have been in
Provence. And the smock? Bought
from PHG, the smart Cowes lifestyle
store, and made by an islander. Isle
of Wight immersion complete.
THE FOOD The chef is Matt Foster, who
has previous form on the island,
and the food is British bistro. We
didn’t have to wait long for perfectly
cooked, charcoal oven-blasted 28
day-aged sirloin steak with skinny
fries from local producer Combley
Farm. Whole sea bream, also
finished in the charcoal oven, was
served simply with steamed new
potatoes and spinach, following
a daily special of baked local crab
with tarragon and charred lemon,
scooped up with sourdough. There’s
a balanced wine list too – we tried
a perky Galician godello for the fish
and a solid Chilean carmenère for
the meat. Breakfast is equally good,
from avocado and poached eggs on
toast to eggs Florentine.
THE ROOMS Split into three categories:
Cosy, Comfy and Spacious; some
have fabulous sea views. It’s all
about the detail here too – we chose
a Spacious room, Number 12, with
a roll-top bath, french windows and
juliet balcony overlooking Cowes’
rooftops and the sea beyond.
COST From £95 for a double room,
including breakfast. Dinner from
£25 for two courses, plus wine.
Mention delicious. when
SPECIAL
OFFER you book a stay to receive
a complimentary glass of
champagne and house truffles*.
northhhousecowes.co.uk →
FROM TOP The Oyster Store menu has a
strong focus on south coast seafood;
the restaurant’s pale-toned dining
room; roll-top baths are a feature in
Spacious rooms; billowing sails during
Cowes Week regatta
hungry traveller.
FROM TOP
The stunning Pembrokeshire
landscape; tuck into American
pancakes for breakfast; the
windmill tower suite offers
panoramic views; Twr y Felin Hotel
120 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
THE ARTY ONE
TWR Y FELIN HOTEL
Pembrokeshire, Wales
BY DIANNE SPENCER
SEASIDE CREDS Tucked
opposite the National
Park Visitor Centre at the entrance
to St Davids, the UK’s smallest city,
Twr y Felin (the mill tower) Hotel
comes as something of a surprise.
It’s just a short stroll from the rugged,
wildflower-lined Pembrokeshire
Coast Path and the golden sands
of beautiful Caerfai beach – but it’s
absolutely not what you’d expect
from a seaside hotel.
Thanks to a £7 million restoration,
this former mill turned temperance
hotel then outdoor adventure centre
is now the epitome of sleek urban
cool, with state-of-the-art tech,
moody decor and a jaw-dropping
collection of edgy modern art.
After a day spent exploring St
Davids’ vast 12th-century cathedral
and expanses of beach, bay and
clifftop, the hotel’s dark, luxurious
interiors are just the ticket.
THE FOOD Head chef Simon Coe
describes his food as “French-
influenced modern British” but his
biggest inspiration is the wealth of
local produce. Fish comes still
flapping off the boat from Milford
Haven, while crab and lobster are
landed even closer, at Solva. Welsh
Black beef and Pembrokeshire lamb
are sourced from butcher Gwyn
Davies on the High Street, and
freshly dug veg from Pen Pant Farm,
a couple of miles down the road.
Foraging is big here, too, and it’s not
unusual for Simon to include wild
ingredients in his menus. Standout
dishes on our visit? A mound of
succulent Solva crab, the sweetness
perfectly balanced with a lick of
chive oil; crisp-skinned sea bream
with roasted fennel and foraged sea
greens; and a velvety violet-scented
blackcurrant parfait, topped with
zingy apple and yuzu sorbet and
crunchy toasted oats.
Breakfast is equally satisfying.
There’s a clutch of egg options –
benedict, florentine and royale – as
well as American pancakes and a
hearty full Welsh. But for sheer
savoury pleasure, the cockles, bacon
and laverbread (a Welsh seaweed
delicacy) on toast is hard to beat.
THE ROOMS Boutique chic, with dark
wood, low lighting and lavish
textures. Supremely comfortable
super-king beds are dressed in crisp
Egyptian cotton, there’s proper milk
in the fridge and there are heavenly
Aromatherapy Associates toiletries
in the limestone bathrooms.
For spectacular coastal views,
book the Tyddewi (St Davids) suite
in the windmill tower. Set over the
top two floors, it was once a wartime
naval observatory. Today its tiny
glazed turret is the perfect spot for
a sundowner, offering a 360-degree
panorama across the peninsula.
COST Doubles from £200 a night,
including breakfast. A three-course
dinner costs £35-£45, plus wine.
Mention delicious. when
SPECIAL
OFFER booking your stay to enjoy
a complimentary bottle of
wine on arrival*. twryfelinhotel.com
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 BITE-SIZE BREAK

GHENT
The city of Ghent, in northern Belgium’s Flanders region, is celebrated for its medieval art and
architecture. The food, though, as Alexander Lobrano discovers, is a lot more up to date – get
ready for yuzu and algae-glazed turbot, foraged-botanical gin and beyond-hipsterish beers

CLOCKWISE FROM The 50-minute De Superette (de-superette.be), a cured Norwegian salmon with
TOP LEFT
train from Brussels bakery and restaurant in what was buckthorn berries and Spanish
St Michael’s
Bridge over the deposits travellers once a supermarket, in a part of the pork with jerusalem artichokes.
River Leie; hop at Ghent’s solid city centre popular with students Chef Michaël Vrijmoed landed
on a tram at mock-medieval and arty young couples. The evening two Michelin stars this year at his
Gent-Sint Pieters
to the city centre;
train station, built prix-fixe menu changes daily and Restaurant Vrijmoed (vrijmoed.be),
brunch fare at to receive visitors runs to dishes such as grilled white a suave dining room in the centre of
De Superette; to the city’s 1913 World Exposition. asparagus with egg, sorrel and whey the city. His modern Belgian cooking
chef Michaël To get a feel for the city, hop on sauce, excellent soups and superb elevates traditional ingredients with
Vrijmoed; Gruut
brewer Annick a tram (number 1, 2 or 4) heading pizzas from a wood-burning oven. magical touches – smoked eel with
De Splenter; the for the centre. This 20-minute trip It also serves the best brunch in smoked-eel ice cream, yuzu and
guests-only reveals the city’s charms, as you town, which includes scrambled algae glazed turbot, or gorgonzola
Honesty Bar at
leave behind the more modern eggs with bacon and fontina cheese sorbet with black garlic and cobnuts.
1898 The Post;
Oak restaurant; outskirts and move back in time to and a creamy chicken vol-au-vent.
Het Waterhuis the heart of one of Europe’s most Chef Desramaults’ other EAT LIKE A LOCAL
Aan de Bierkant; beautifully preserved medieval cities. restaurant, Chambre Séparée Head for Bodo (bodo.gent), where
shop for locally
distilled drops In medieval times Ghent grew (chambreseparee.be), won a Michelin chef Lore Moerman puts her own
at Proof wealthy from the wool trade and this star this year and is Ghent’s best big spin on traditional Flemish comfort
prosperity is reflected in buildings night out for its sleek lounge-bar-like food dishes such as stoemp (mashed
such as Saint Bavo’s Cathedral, a atmosphere, including a turntable potatoes and carrots, which is much

Gothic stunner that was remodelled
from the 14th to the 16th centuries.
These days Ghent’s medieval heart,
centred round Korenmarkt, where
grain was once traded, is still a lively
place. The prosperous university
town has a young population and,
stacked with vintage jazz on vinyl.
Guests sit around a U-shaped oak
counter surrounding the open
kitchen, watch the chef and his team
at work and enjoy small plates that
compose his 20-course tasting menu.
These change with the season but
PHOTOGRAPHS: CHLOE CHAPMAN, HELENA DOLBY, TOM JOY, ALEX TEUSCHER/ZANNIER HOTELS,
better than it sounds) with sausage.
Find the best garnaalkroketten
(deep-fried croquettes filled with
tiny North Sea prawns) at Café
Theatre (cafetheatre.be). Pakhuis
(pakhuis.be), a popular brasserie
in a dramatically renovated PIET DE KERSGIETER, HEIKKI VERDURME, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

as gentrification has made Antwerp
and Brussels pricier, creative types
have been moving here. Its busy
cafés and bars mark its emergence
as a serious restaurant town with
one of the most daring gastronomic
scenes in Europe.
THE HOT CHEFS
For an appetising introduction to
Ghent’s cutting-edge food scene,
head to chef Kobe Desramaults’ hip
hold to avant-garde Flemish comfort
food such as North Sea shrimp
tartare, potato purée with caviar,
wild duck with shiitake mushrooms,
and hazelnut tart with lavender.
Ghent is attracting a growing
number of talented young chefs,
too. At Oak (oakgent.be) Italo-
Brazilian Marcelo Ballardin, who
formerly cooked with Heston
Blumenthal, just won his first
Michelin star for dishes such as
warehouse, which pulls crowds
with sole meunière and a first-rate
steak tartare of Flemish beef.
HIT THE SHOPS
Proof (proof.gent) is a recently
opened shop and tasting room
that’s a great place to sample
some of the excellent new gins
being distilled in Flanders. Try
Ginderella, flavoured with wild
herbs gathered in the city’s parks.

122 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 hungry traveller.

Hilde Devolder Chocolatier

(hildedevolderchocolatier.be) is
Ghent’s most irresistible chocolate
shop. Devolder is a master
chocolatier, and everything she sells
is made here by hand, including her
superb ganache chocolates and dried
fruits dipped in dark chocolate.

BELGIAN TIPPLES
Ghent is a terrific town for tipplers.
Stop by the Gruut Stadsbrouwerij
(gruut.be) to sample the excellent
local beers brewed by Annick De
Splenter. She’s revived the local
tradition of brewing with a mix of
herbs called gruut – a method that
dates back to the Middle Ages.
Beer lovers will also want to make
a beeline for Het Waterhuis Aan de
Bierkant (waterhuisaandebierkant.
be), a popular local bar on the banks
of the River Leie that serves 16 beers
on tap and more than 150 bottled.
On a sunny day, head for Het
Spijker (cafehetspijker.be), one of
the oldest bars in Ghent in an old
grain warehouse, which serves on a
terrace out front, weather permitting.
Or try the charming De Planck
(deplanck.be), a bar on an old river
barge, where you can choose from
125 beers and sip at a table under
the trees… Idyllic.

WHERE TO STAY
1898 THE POST HOTEL
(zannier.com) was recently
opened on two floors of the
former main post office, a
stylish neo-Gothic 19th-
century building in the heart
of the city. Doubles from £161.
ONDERBERGEN (hotelonder
bergen.be) is a comfortable,
reasonably priced and central
option. Doubles from £60.

GETTING THERE
Take the Eurostar from
London’s St Pancras
International and change
at Brussels for Gent-Sint
Pieters. Lowest standard
fare from £70 return.
COMING NEXT MONTH IN…

Some
like it
hotÉ

ON
SALE
31 AUGUST

• Michel Roux Jr
shares his secret recipe
• Get on-trend with our
guide to pickling & fermenting
• An Italian weekend feast for
sharing from Angela Hartnett
• Gill Meller cooks his special lobster spaghetti
PLUS Hazelnut pavlova l spanakopita l gluten-free apple tart l Thai green curry
delicious. directory delicious. directory delicious. directory delicious. directory

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FOOD LOVER’S CROSSWORD
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EYE TO EYE MEDIA LTD, AXE & BOTTLE COURT,
70 NEWCOMEN STREET, LONDON SE1 1YT

Subscription enquiries 01858 438424 delicious@subscription.co.uk

Editorial enquiries 020 7803 4100 Fax 020 7803 4101
Email info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk Web deliciousmagazine.co.uk

THIS MONTH WE ASKED What’s your favourite holiday dish?

Editor Karen Barnes Chargrilled sea bream fresh out of the sea
Deputy editor Susan Low Freshly dug, Cape Cod littleneck clams with lemon juice
Editorial and features assistant Phoebe Stone Strawberry gelato
Food editor Jennifer Bedloe Calamari with a cold lager
Deputy food editor Sophie Austen-Smith Gambas pil pil and crusty bread
Cookery assistant Olivia Spurrell Pistachio gelato
Art director Jocelyn Bowerman Whole lobster and melted butter
Art editor Martine Tinney Garlicky prawns, juices mopped up with sourdough
Managing editor Les Dunn Barbecued sardines in Spain
Deputy chief sub editor Hugh Thompson Cornish pasty on the beach after a swim
Senior sub editor Rebecca Almond Moussaka
Wine editor Susy Atkins Gadget tester Aggie MacKenzie
Contributors Xanthe Clay, Lucas Hollweg, James Ramsden
Marketing director Julia Rich 020 7803 4129 Fish and chips
Digital editor Rebecca Brett 020 7803 4130 Fish and noodle soup in Myanmar
Digital editor (maternity cover) Vic Grimshaw 020 7803 4130 Spaghetti alle vongole
Digital producer Isabeau Brimeau Cheese, cured meats and olives from a local deli
Digital editorial assistant Ellie Donnell Mezze with olives, dips, tomatoes, feta
See how much you really know about Podcast producer Gilly Smith Grilled fish with a tomato salad in olive oil
the world of food with Hugh Thompson’s
culinary conundrum. Answers next month With thanks to: Abigail Dodd, Holly Holmes,
Demi Roberts, Aubrey Thompson

ACROSS Advertising director Jason Elson 020 7150 5394

Trading advertising manager, print & digital Anna Priest 020 7150 5191
1 Spring onions fêted in Catalonia – great with romesco sauce (7) Group head, partnerships Roxane Rix 020 7150 5039
6 Traditional Argentinian meat-heavy barbecue (5) Client services manager Catherine Nicolson 020 7150 5044
7 Atlantic sea fish from the cod family – has an alternate spelling (7) Senior sales executive, brand Rachel Dalton 020 7150 5474
9 _____ salts (magnesium sulphate) have beneficial properties (5) Senior sales executive, brand James Adams 020 7150 5133
10 Northernmost region, feeding ground for many coldwater fish (6) Senior sales executive, brand Margaret McGonnell 020 7150 5474
13 A young hen, typically under one year old (6) Sales executive, partnerships Elorie Palmer 020 7150 5030
Sales executive, partnerships Mia Georgevic 020 7150 5030
15 Surname of French sisters who popularised a sticky apple tart (5)
Sales executive, classified Annabel Glaysher 020 7150 5218
17 Abstinent; someone who denies themselves indulgence (7)
Regional business development manager Nicola Rearden 0161 209 3629
18 Soft tissue at the back of the throat, helps safe swallowing (5)
Business development manager, inserts Steve Cobb 020 7150 5124
19 Wild stingers that can be used for tea, soup or salads (7)

DOWN Managing director Seamus Geoghegan

020 7803 4123 seamus.geoghegan@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk
Publishing director Adrienne Moyce
1 Highly prized Italian cured meat, from the neck of a pig (5) 020 7803 4111 adrienne.moyce@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk
2 Type of acid found in chard and rhubarb (especially the leaves) (6) Consultant editorial director Jo Sandilands
3 Japanese alcoholic beverage made from rice grains (4) Production director Jake Hopkins 020 7803 4110
4 Hearty southern French casserole of beans, meat and sausages (9) Finance director Darren Blundy darren.blundy@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk
5 Mildly spiced curry of meat/veg braised in yogurt or cream (5) Finance manager Martin Cherry 01733 373135
8 Epicurean Roman poet who wrote De Rerum Natura (9) martin.cherry@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk
11 Grape with a sweet floral aroma that works well for sweet wines (6)
delicious. magazine is published under licence from News Life Media by Eye to Eye Media Ltd,
12 Dark ale made with roasted malt or barley, hops, water and yeast (5) Axe & Bottle Court, 70 Newcomen Street, London SE1 1YT. ISSN 1742-1586. Printed in the UK by
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128 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 for your files.

AUGUS T 2018

RECIPE INDEX
111 108 46 70
STARTERS, SIDES FISH & SHELLFISH • Italian chicken ciabatta rolls 72 • Coconut meringue slices 70
& NIBBLES • Chilli & garlic prawns with sea • Paprika-roast chicken with • Hazelnut, apple & tahini pastry
• Bloody mary panzanella 86 purslane 33 potatoes & peppers 24 cigars 111
• Irio mukimo (mashed • Crab mayo, radish & pea rolls 72 • Persian chicken with spiced • Mint chocolate ice cream
potatoes with pumpkin • Gratins à la dieppoise with sea yogurt 64 parfait bombes 22
leaves & corn) 54 bass, scallop, mussels & • No-churn blackcurrant ripple
• Kachumbari (tomato prawns 36 VEGETARIAN ice-cream sandwiches 23
salsa) 52 • Grilled mackerel with tomato, • Barley, aubergine & • Sultana butter tarts 56
• Marinated goat’s cheese basil & preserved lemon pomegranate salad 62 • Vanilla baked cheescake 70
with garden vegetables 62 salad 81 • Cheesy quesadillas with tomato,
• Okonomiyaki (Japanese • Mussels skordalia 40 pepper & avocado salsa 86 OTHER
savoury pancake) 93 • Pan-fried red snapper 52 • Falafel & aubergine pittas 72 • Argentinian salsa criolla 101
• Roasted red peppers with • Saganaki wraps 72 • Gazpacho 84 • Caper pickle sauce 101
basil 62 • Seafood linguine 38 • Mexican spiced rice 80 • Easy blackcurrant jam 100
• Summer rolls with satay • Sesame tuna steaks with • Miso & maple aubergine • Mojo verde 101
dip 93 tomato noodle salad & crispy ‘steak’ burger 91 • Summer peach cocktail 4
• Sweetcorn with pancetta, fried chilli & ginger 87 • Pasta, beetroot & chard salad
rosemary & garlic butter 44 • Vietnamese prawn, quinoa & with halloumi 78
• Tear and share feta & herb papaya salad with peanuts 78 • Roasted ragù &
bread 64 pappardelle 94 COLLECTOR’S EDITION:
• Tomato coconut
sauce 54
PORK • Roasted summer
ratatouille 82
MEDITERRANEAN
• Air-dried ham & Boursin
quiche with quail eggs 28 • Shakshuka 83
KITCHEN
MAIN COURSES • Better BLT 72 • Sukuma wiki (kale stew) 52
• Chicken, artichoke &
spinach filo topped pie
BEEF & GAME • Chorizo, halloumi & tomato • Super green rolls 72
• Fattoush salad with
• Nyama choma (roasted traybake 87 • Trofie pasta with watercress,
chargrilled sea bream
short ribs) 52 • Chorizo, rocket & red pepper courgette & almonds 108
• Halloumi fries with
• Rabbit burgers with sarnies 72 • Tunisian tabil aubergine with
honey & sesame
watercress mayonnaise, • Ham hock, pea & apple couscous 95
• Lamb & aubergine stew
blue cheese & slow-roast potato salad with buttermilk
tomatoes 46 dressing 77 SWEET THINGS with houmous
• Lamb kleftico
• Steak & posh crisp • Hot dogs with sauerkraut & • Brown butter caramel & rye
• Patatas bravas
sandwiches 72 crispy fried onions 85 bread gelato 22
• Pissaladière
• Sticky Mexican-style • Quiche lorraine 26 • Chai carrot cake with lime
• Prawn saganaki
barbecued beef brisket with & rose frosting 97
• Stuffed baked tomatoes
quick-pickled onions 104 POULTRY • Chocolate juliette 70
• Tahini, sesame & fennel
• Thai steak salad with jasmine • Chicken & charred corn tacos 43 • Chocolate swirl meringues,
seed bread
rice, sugar snaps & toasted • Coronation chicken salad with berries & white chocolate
coconut 79 toasted naan croutons 77 sauce 64

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deliciousmagazine.co.uk 129
a good rant.
Why airports ruin
my appetite for travel
Are you flying off for some sun this summer,
excited about all that al fresco scoffing and new
flavours to discover? There’s a miserable obstacle
to get through first, says travel writer Liz Edwards
A
h, the holiday season, don’t you just
love it? We all get a bit giddy at the
prospect of a week or two of joyful
face-filling in foreign climes, forgetting –
because it’s only natural to suppress the
traumatic memories – that before culinary
adventure must come airport.
There you are, all rumbly-tummed
about the tapas you’re going to mainline,
the lunchtime glasses of rosé from the
vineyard down the road, the bowls of pad
thai you’ll scoff kerbside or the sea-view
pepper-spicy fish tacos… when along
comes the airport. For food lovers, too
much about the modern airport
experience seems calculated to have you
calling the whole thing off and instead
googling ‘best box sets’ and ‘Deliveroo’.
First there’s the 100ml rule. Insiders
admit the risk ain’t what it once was. Which
makes me think revenue-conscious airports
are cynically allowing restrictions to
continue, so that if you lack the scout-level
be-preparedness required to bring along
an empty water bottle and track down a
water fountain, you end up dumping the
drink you bought en route. Which means
you have to buy another one – but only
once you’ve done the disorienting,
SAN
SANDWICH CHAIN
H2O LON SEA C-CL
WATER FOUNTAIN
zig-zagging duty-free walk of shame past
pre-10am samples of spirits you thought no
longer existed, plus the wickedly expensive
confectionery that no longer should.
Coming back, of course, that same rule
means you’re faced with a choice of
bringing any liquid local bounty back in
miniatures, or wrapping it in every item of
clothing you have and trusting to the weak
underarm swing of the baggage handlers.
Then, for most of us in cattle class,
There’s no way you’re
going to spend the best part
of a tenner on the airline’s
depressing sandwich
there’s post-security food to consider.
You’ll need to work out whether you’ll get
hungry before you’ve landed, waited in the
passport queue, waited at the carousel,
waited for a bus/train/taxi to wherever
you’re going, and found a restaurant…
Answer: of course you will. And unless
you cut things so fine you end up Indiana
Jones-sliding onto the plane, there’s no
way you’re going to spend the best part
LONGHAUL
SEAFOOD BAR
of a tenner on the airline’s depressing
sandwich. (Longhaul flights occupy their
own circle of chicken-or-pasta hell.)
So that leaves you the choice between
Pret (which will remind you of al desko
lunches in the office you’re supposed to
be forgetting), a packed lunch (ditto), and
the champagne and seafood bar (where you
can only afford to eat on business expenses,
which means you’re not, therefore, supposed
to be forgetting the office).
Yes, these days there are airport offerings
from Jamie Oliver, Gordon Ramsay and
James Martin, but seriously, who gets to
the airport early enough to sit down for a
meal? Even if I were in transit and waiting
hours for a connection, I’m not sure I’d
enjoy Gordon’s Plane Food properly; I’d
still be in the grip of low-level but rising
anxiety about missing my flight. Turn your
back for a second and those departure
boards flip from ‘await gate information’
to ‘gate closing’ faster than an unwatched
pear turns from rock to mush.
Or maybe I have it all wrong and this is
a cunning airport-authority plan to make
our holidays even more yearned-for; our
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
arrivals abroad even more joyous. I doubt it,
though. I suspect the problem’s terminal.
Do you agree with Liz or do you
take a different view? Tell us at
info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk and
we’ll print the best replies
CATTLE-CLASS
£10
 THE COLLECTOR’S EDITION

MEDITERRANEAN
KITCHEN

BRIMMING WITH
SEASIDE SUNSHINE

16
Prawn saganaki

E X TR A
PAGES OF
SU M M ER IN ASSOCIATION WITH

R ECIPES
 Experts tell us that the Mediterranean diet is one of the world’s
healthiest. For me, that’s just an added bonus because the main attractions
are the fresh, sun-warmed flavours of simply prepared ingredients used in
time-honoured recipes. Mediterranean eating is about more than the food,
though… With this Collector’s Edition I hope to evoke warm evenings on
a vine-draped terrace with good rosé and lively chat. Throw in a few of my
takes on Med favourites and good times lie ahead. JEN BEDLOE, ACTING FOOD EDITOR

CRUNCH TIME
Chicken, artichoke
and spinach filo
topped pie
MED FISH SUPPER
Fattoush salad
with chargrilled
sea bream
CLASSICALLY GREEK
Lamb kleftiko
 ALL IN A WHIRL
Tahini, sesame and
fennel seed bread
BEST CHIPS EVER
Halloumi fries
with honey and
sesame
ESSENTIAL TAPA
Patatas bravas

Patatas bravas
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING
TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 15-20 MIN
Make the sauce to the end of step 1,
MAKE
AHEAD cool completely, then cover and chill
for up to 3 days.
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 onion, roughly chopped
• 80g chargrilled peppers (available from
Sainsbury’s), drained
• 2 fat garlic cloves, sliced
• 2 tsp sweet smoked paprika
• ¼ tsp cayenne pepper
• 1 lemon
• 350g tomato passata (rustica or regular)
• 1.2kg waxy potatoes, such as charlotte
• Light olive oil or sunflower oil for frying
• Sea salt flakes
• 2 fresh rosemary sprigs (optional)
• Handful fresh flatleaf parsley, chopped
• Aioli to serve (optional)
1 Heat the extra-virgin olive oil in a deep
frying pan or large sauté pan and gently
cook the onion, peppers and garlic with a
couple of pinches of salt for 10 minutes or
until softened. Stir in the paprika, cayenne
and a squeeze of lemon juice. Stir for
1-2 minutes until fragrant, then pour in the
8 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
passata and simmer gently for 20 minutes
until thick. Set aside to cool a little, then
use a stick blender to whizz the sauce to
a purée (or, if you prefer, leave it chunky).
2 Meanwhile, heat the oven to 220°C/200°C
fan/gas 7. Peel and cut the potatoes into
quarters, then cut into 2cm chunks. Put in a
pan of cold salted water, bring to the boil,
then simmer for 6-8 minutes until tender.
Drain well, tip onto a tray lined with kitchen
paper and dry well. Toss in a shallow
roasting tin with the light olive/sunflower
oil and sea salt. Add the rosemary, if using,
then roast for 15-20 minutes until golden
and crisp, turning once or twice.
3 Spoon half the brava sauce onto a serving
platter, then top with the potatoes. Spoon
over a little more sauce and sprinkle over
the parsley to serve. If you like, serve with
a dollop of aioli (for a cheat’s version, mix
finely chopped garlic and a squeeze of
lemon juice into shop-bought mayonnaise).
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 296kcals, 9.8g fat
(1.4g saturated), 5.7g protein, 43.1g carbs
(7g sugars), 0.1g salt, 5.9g fibre
WINE NOTE Pick a fruity dry verdejo white
or a young and sprightly Spanish rosado.
Chicken, artichoke and
spinach filo topped pie
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME
35-40 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 15 MIN
Assemble the pie a day ahead, then
MAKE
AHEAD cover and chill. Add 5-10 minutes
extra to the baking time, making
sure the pie is piping hot all the way through.
Freeze the pie filling in food bags for up to 2
months. Defrost overnight in the fridge, then
top with scrunched filo and bake as above.
• 4 skinless free-range chicken breasts
• 2 banana shallots, chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed
• 750ml whole milk
• 40g butter, softened
• 40g plain flour
• 2 x 180g packs chargrilled artichokes,
drained (from Sainsbury’s and Waitrose)
• 150g baby leaf spinach
• A few fresh dill sprigs, chopped
• Small bunch fresh tarragon, chopped
• A few fresh mint sprigs, leaves picked
and finely chopped
• 100ml white wine
• 5 filo pastry sheets
• Olive oil for brushing
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
Cut the chicken breasts horizontally in half
to create 8 thinner fillets. Put in a deep,
wide frying or sauté pan with the shallots
and garlic, then cover with the milk. Over
a medium heat, bring up to a simmer, then
turn the heat down to its lowest heat so the
milk is barely bubbling. Season with a little
salt and pepper and poach for 15 minutes or
until the chicken is cooked through.
2 Once the chicken is cooked, transfer to a
board and use 2 forks to shred into chunks.
In a small bowl, mix the butter into the
flour. Skim any scum off the surface of the
poaching milk, then bring back to a simmer.
Add the butter and flour mixture a tablespoon
at a time, whisking, until the milk has
thickened. Season with salt and pepper.
3 Stir the chicken, artichokes, spinach, herbs
and white wine into the sauce. Spoon into
a pie dish and top with scrunched up filo
sheets. Brush the filo with olive oil, then bake
for 35-40 minutes until golden and bubbling.
PER SERVING 463kcals, 20.6g fat
(7.9g saturated), 32.9g protein, 31g carbs
(7.5g sugars), 1.4g salt, 4.7g fibre
WINE NOTE Look to a southern Italian or
Sicilian white such as a greco or fiano.
Tahini, sesame and
fennel seed bread
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME
20-25 MIN, PLUS PROVING TIME
• 300g strong white bread flour, plus
extra to dust
• 1 tsp fine sea salt
• ½ tsp fennel seeds, crushed in a pestle
and mortar
• 180ml lukewarm water
• 7g fast-action dried yeast
• 2 tsp sugar
• 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve
• 2 tbsp tahini
• 1 tsp runny honey
• 50g butter, melted
• 2 tbsp sesame seeds, soaked
in 2 tbsp milk or water
• 2 tbsp caraway seeds, soaked
in 2 tbsp milk or water
TO SERVE
• Freshly chopped fresh parsley and mint
• Handful shelled pistachios, chopped
• Strained greek yogurt
• Mixed olives (we love Unearthed Olives
with Rosemary and Black Pepper or
Market Olive Mix, from Waitrose and
Ocado)
1 Put the flour in a mixing bowl, then stir in
the salt and crushed fennel seeds. Put the
warm water in a measuring jug and stir in
the yeast and sugar. Set aside for a few
minutes until starting to froth.
2 Pour the yeast mixture onto the flour.
Mix using a wooden spoon until it starts
to clump together, then use your hands to
pinch and knead it until it starts to form
a dough. Tip onto a lightly floured surface
and knead until the dough is smooth and
starts to feel elastic. Wipe out the mixing
bowl and brush with olive oil, then put the
dough in, cover with cling film and set aside
to rise somewhere draft free for 1-2 hours
– it should double in size.
3 Once the bread has risen, combine the
tahini and honey in a small mixing bowl. Tip
the dough out onto on a lightly floured work
surface, then stretch and pull it into a large
rectangle shape – use a rolling pin to help
you – until about 1cm thick. Spread the
tahini mixture over the surface of the bread,
then roll up to enclose the filling inside a
long sausage shape. Roll over the dough
with your hands to make sure it’s an even
thickness. Coil the dough into a spiral and
transfer to a non-stick baking sheet/tray –
tuck the end under the main coil to stop it
coming apart when baking. Brush all over
with melted butter, drain the sesame and
caraway seeds and scatter/brush over the
surface of the dough. Cover with cling film
and set aside to prove for 30 minutes.
4 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7.
Bake for 20-25 minutes on the middle shelf
until golden brown and the loaf sounds
hollow when tapped underneath. Cool, then
serve scattered with the herbs and nuts,
with yogurt and antipasti olives.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 381kcals, 19.6g fat
(6.3g saturated), 9.5g protein, 40.5g carbs
(3g sugars), 1g salt, 2.7g fibre
WINE NOTE A glass of cool Mediterranean
vermentino to match the aniseed flavour.
Lamb kleftico
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 4 HOURS 55 MIN, PLUS MARINATING
AND RESTING
Marinate the lamb up to 2 days
MAKE
AHEAD ahead, cover and keep in the fridge.
You’ll need to bring the lamb back
to room temperature before roasting (allow
at least 1-2 hours).
FOOD If you’re not a fan of anchovies,
TEAM’S replace them in the marinade with
TIP
an extra tablespoon of capers.
• 3 anchovy fillets in oil (available from
Waitrose) – see tip
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 tbsp capers in brine, drained
and rinsed
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp dried mint
• 1 tsp dried marjoram
• 1 tsp dried thyme
• 3 bay leaves
• 5 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
• Grated zest and juice 1 lemon
• 1.8kg bone-in leg of British lamb
• 3 tbsp clear honey
• Fresh oregano and thyme leaves to
garnish
FOR THE POTATOES
• Olive oil for frying
• 2 onions, thinly sliced
• 1.25kg maris piper potatoes
• 120g sun-blush tomatoes
• 150g pitted green olives (available from
Morrisons), chopped
• 350ml hot chicken stock
• 1 lemon, halved
1 Put the anchovies, 3 tbsp olive oil, capers,
dried herbs, bay leaves, garlic, lemon zest
and juice and plenty of salt and ground black
pepper in a food processor, then whizz until
smooth. (Alternatively, use a stick blender
in a jug or pound in a pestle and mortar.)
Spoon the mixture onto the lamb and rub
it all over the meat. Leave to marinate in
a large food bag or on a tray, covered, for at
least 4 hours (preferably overnight) in the
fridge – see Make Ahead.
2 Heat the oven to 160°C/140°C fan/
gas 3. For the potatoes, heat a glug of olive
oil in a frying pan and cook the onions over
a gentle heat for 15 minutes or until soft
and lightly caramelised.
3 Meanwhile, peel and slice the potatoes as
thinly as possible (using a mandoline, if you
have one), then toss with the onions,
tomatoes and olives. Tip into a big roasting
tin (about 6cm longer than the leg of lamb)
pour over the stock, squeeze over the lemon
halves and add the squeezed-out shells to
the tin. Sit the lamb on top, making sure all
the marinade stays with it. Cover with a
sheet of baking paper, then a layer of foil.
4 Roast for 4½ hours, remove the foil and
baking paper and drizzle over the honey,
then return to the oven, uncovered, for
15 minutes to brown. Remove the lamb
from the tin and set aside on a board or
platter to rest. Return the tin with the
potatoes to the oven for 10 minutes
or until golden and lightly crisped.
5 Sit the lamb on top of the potatoes,
scatter with fresh oregano and thyme,
spoon over the cooking juices, then serve
with seasonal greens.
PER SERVING 823kcals, 42.9g fat (14.5g
saturated), 55.5g protein, 50.3g carbs
(10.6g sugars), 1.4g salt, 6.8g fibre
WINE NOTE Rich Greek reds made from
the xinomavro grape suit kleftiko well,
as does California’s gutsy red zinfandel. →

Halloumi fries with honey
and sesame
SERVES 8 AS A NIBBLE. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
Make to the end of step 1 up to
MAKE
AHEAD 4 hours in advance, then cover
the halloumi loosely with cling film
and chill until ready to fry.
FOOD Use up any leftover herb/spice
TEAM’S mix by scattering over grilled
TIP
meats or salads.
• 2 x 225g packs halloumi,
cut into fingers
• 1 large free-range egg,
beaten
• 75g fine semolina or polenta
• ¾ tsp dried mint
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp sumac
• 1 tbsp black and white
sesame seeds
• Vegetable oil for frying
• Clear honey for drizzling
• Small handful fresh mint,
leaves picked and
chopped (optional)
• 200g natural yogurt
• 2 tbsp pomegranate
molasses
• 1 lemon, cut into
wedges
1 Heat the oven to
120°C/100°C fan/
gas ½. Toss the halloumi
in the beaten egg to coat,
then in the semolina or
polenta. Lay out on a
10 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
baking sheet lined with non-stick baking
paper until ready to fry (see Make Ahead).
2 Mix the dried mint, dried oregano, sumac
and sesame seeds with a little freshly
ground black pepper and set aside.
3 Pour about 2cm oil into a large, deep
heavy-based frying pan. Put on a medium-
high heat and, once the oil has started to
shimmer, carefully fry the halloumi, in
batches, for 1 minute on each side or until
golden. Keep each batch warm on a baking
tray in the oven, loosely covered with foil.
4 To serve, pile up the fries on a board or
serving plate (or serve them on the baking
tray), drizzle with honey, sprinkle with
the dried herb mix and the mint (if using),
then add a generous drizzle of the yogurt
and pomegranate molasses. Tuck in a few
lemon wedges to squeeze. Eat straightaway.
PER SERVING 329kcals, 21.6g fat (11.7g
saturated), 15.3g protein, 18.3g carbs
(5.4g sugars), 1.5g salt, 0.5g fibre
WINE NOTE Crisp Greek whites would be
refreshing but the honey calls for an off-dry
chenin blanc, such as vouvray demi-sec.
Mezze star dish: Lamb and
aubergine stew with houmous
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN,
SIMMERING TIME 1½ HOURS
Make the stew to the end of step 4,
MAKE
AHEAD then cool and keep in an airtight
container in the fridge for up to
2 days. Reheat thoroughly to serve.
Or freeze the stew in an airtight container
or bag for up to 3 months.
The houmous will keep for up to
24 hours, covered, in the fridge. Bring
to room temperature to serve.
Baharat (meaning spices in Arabic)
KNOW-
HOW is an aromatic, warm spice mix
made up of black peppercorns,
coriander seeds, cinnamon, cloves, allspice,
cumin, cardamom and nutmeg (no two
recipes are the same).
• Olive oil for frying
• 750g British lamb neck fillet, cut into
chunky strips
• 2 aubergines, halved and cut into strips
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 5 dried figs, roughly chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed
• 1½ tbsp baharat (from Sainsbury’s,
Waitrose and Ocado) – see Know-how
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 375ml hot chicken stock
• 125g mixed olives (such as Morrisons
Mediterranean Olive Trio), roughly
chopped
• Handful toasted flaked almonds
• Small handful each fresh mint,
parsley and dill, coarsely chopped
• Pomegranate seeds
• Flatbreads to serve
FOR THE HOUMOUS
• 660g jar chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 4 tbsp tahini (widely available)
• Juice 1 lemon
• 50ml olive oil
• 125ml ice-cold water
1 Heat a splash of oil in a large, deep
frying pan with a tight-fitting lid and fry
the lamb, in batches, over a high heat
until browned. Remove with a slotted
spoon and set aside on a plate.
2 In the same pan, fry the aubergine
in batches, adding a little more oil if
needed, until golden and just cooked
through. Remove with a slotted spoon
and set aside on another plate.
3 Reduce the heat and cook the onion
until softened (about 10 minutes). Stir
in the figs, garlic and spices, then cook
for 2 minutes until fragrant.
4 Return the lamb to the pan, stirring to
coat well in the spices, then pour over the
hot stock. Bring to a boil over a high heat,
then reduce the heat and simmer, covered,
for 1½ hours or until the lamb is very
tender. For the last 10 minutes of so of the
cooking time, stir in most of the aubergines
and 75g of the olives, leaving off the lid so
the sauce has a chance to thicken. Taste
and season the stew with salt and black
pepper (be mindful that the houmous and
olives will add a little saltiness).
5 Meanwhile, make the houmous. In
a food processor or mini chopper, pulse
together the chickpeas, garlic, tahini
and lemon juice until smooth. With the
processor running, pour in the olive oil in
a steady stream along with the ice-cold
water until the houmous is very smooth.
Taste and season with salt, freshly ground
black pepper and more lemon.
6 Spread the houmous over the base of
a large serving dish and spoon over the
hot lamb and aubergine stew, top with
the remaining aubergine and olives, then
scatter over the almonds, herbs and
pomegranate seeds. Serve the stew
with flatbreads for scooping.
PER SERVING 568kcals, 32.9g fat (7.5g
saturated), 37.8g protein, 24.4g carbs
(12.9g sugars), 1.1g salt, 11.4g fibre
WINE NOTE Juicy, bright and ripe New
World reds hit the mark here, especially
Aussie or Chilean merlots. →
 FULL OF MIDDLE
EASTERN PROMISE
Lamb and aubergine
stew with houmous

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 11

Prawn saganaki
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING
TIME 10 MIN, OVEN TIME 12-15 MIN
Make the tomato sauce up to the
MAKE
AHEAD end of step 1, then cover and chill
for up to a day. Put in the oven to
warm through before adding the prawns,
then continue with the recipe.
FOOD If you like, add queen scallops
TEAM’S and squid rings to the prawns.
TIP
Use straight from frozen or
defrost in the fridge or under cold
running water in the sink.
Cheaper feta is aged in salt water
KNOW-
HOW in airtight steel tins. Barrel-aged
feta is stored for at least 3 months
in wooden barrels. These allow the air to
permeate as the cheese matures with help
from the natural bacteria and yeasts from
the wood. This gives the feta a creamy
texture and rounded but punchy taste.
• 4-5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 red onion, chopped
• 2 fat garlic cloves, crushed
• 5cm fresh ginger, grated
• ½ tsp Aleppo chilli flakes (or a pinch of
regular chilli flakes)
• 350g jar tomato passata rustico, crushed
tomatoes or tomato passata
• 50g pitted black olives (available from
Sainsbury’s and Waitrose), sliced
• 4 sun-dried tomatoes (available from
Sainsbury’s), chopped
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• Handful basil leaves (greek if possible),
plus extra to garnish
• 2 fresh mint sprigs, leaves picked, large
ones finely shredded, a few small leaves
reserved whole to garnish
• 1 lemon
• 1 tsp sugar
• 20-24 sustainable large raw shell-on
king/tiger prawns (see tip)
• 200g pack barrel-aged feta
(see Know-how)
1 Heat 3 tbsp of the extra-virgin olive oil
in a shallow flameproof casserole or
ovenproof skillet pan. Cook the onion,
garlic and ginger with a couple of pinches of
salt for 10 minutes over a low heat or until
softened, stirring every so often.
2 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
Stir in the chilli flakes, passata/tomatoes,
sliced olives, sun-dried tomatoes, dried and
fresh herbs, a squeeze of lemon juice and
the sugar. Season to taste with salt and
black pepper. Leave to simmer over a low
heat for 10 minutes. Check the seasoning
once more, adding more lemon and salt and
black pepper as required (don’t over-salt
the dish as the feta will be salty).
3 Nestle the prawns on top of the sauce,
crumble over the feta and drizzle with the
remaining olive oil, then bake for 12-15
minutes until the prawns are cooked
through and the feta is tinged golden
brown. Scatter with the reserved herbs and
add another grind of black pepper to serve.
PER SERVING 373kcals, 24.9g fat (9g
saturated), 23.8g protein, 11.8g carbs
(10.8g sugars), 2.1g salt, 3g fibre
WINE NOTE Chill a light and citrussy
southern French picpoul de pinet.
Pissaladière
SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN,
OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN
Make and cook the tart a day
MAKE
AHEAD ahead, cover well with cling film,
then chill. Reheat in a hot oven
for 5 minutes to serve.
FOOD If you don’t like anchovies or are
TEAM’S veggie, scatter a few sun-blush
TIPS
tomatoes evenly over the onions.
In step 1 it’s important to be patient
and make sure the onions don’t burn.
They need to turn translucent first before
they begin to turn golden.
• Oil for frying
• 25g butter
• 900g onions, finely sliced
• 2 tbsp fresh thyme leaves, plus extra
to serve
• 320g sheet ready-rolled puff
pastry
• 2 tbsp dijon mustard
• 150g anchovy fillets, drained (available
from Sainsbury’s and Waitrose)
• 16 black olives (available from Sainsbury’s
and Waitrose), pitted and halved
1 Heat the oil and butter in a very large
frying pan over a medium heat until
bubbling. Add the sliced onions with a pinch
of salt and cook for 30-40 minutes, stirring
occasionally, until completely softened
and caramelised.
2 Once the onions have caramelised, stir
in the thyme leaves and cook for 1 minute
more, then transfer to a bowl to cool slightly.
Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
3 Unroll the puff pastry, still attached to its
paper, onto a large baking sheet. Using a
sharp knife, score a border 1.5cm from the
edge of the pastry. Brush the mustard over
the pastry inside the border, then spoon
over the onions and spread evenly inside
the border. Arrange the anchovies over the
onions in a lattice, creating a diamond
pattern (see right), then put an olive half in
the middle of each diamond. Bake for 25-30
minutes until golden and crisp, then
transfer to a board, scatter with
fresh thyme leaves and serve
in slices.
PER SERVING (FOR 10)
211kcals, 12.4g fat (5.6g
saturated), 5.2g protein, 18g
carbs (5.8g sugars), 2g salt,
3.1g fibre
WINE NOTE Salty anchovies
in pissaladière call for a cold,
pale pink, bone-dry and refreshing rosé
from sunny Provence. →
IT’S FRENCH FOR PIZZA
Pissaladière

Fattoush salad with
chargrilled sea bream
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
Make the feta and yogurt mix
MAKE
AHEAD a day ahead and keep covered
in the fridge.
Za’atar is a fragrant, tangy and
KNOW-
HOW nutty Middle Eastern herb and spice
blend that combines dried thyme
(za’atar is also arabic for wild thyme), toasted
sesame seeds, dried marjoram and sumac.
FOOD If you can’t find mini or lebanese
TEAM’S cucumbers it’s fine to use a regular
TIPS
cucumber but use only a half,
deseeded and cut into chunks.
Serve ricotta-stuffed peppers (from
Sainsbury’s and Waitrose) before the fish
for an easy nibble with drinks.
• 200g feta
• 150g greek yogurt
• 1 small garlic clove, crushed
• 1 tbsp clear honey (preferably
Greek)
• 250g cherry tomatoes, halved
• 200g radishes, quartered
• 3-4 mini/lebanese cucumbers, sliced
into 1cm rounds (see tips)
• 1 red onion, finely sliced
• 2 white pitta breads, toasted and
torn into small chunks
• Bunch fresh mint, leaves
picked and chopped
• Bunch fresh parsley, chopped
• 1 tbsp za’atar (see Know-how)
• ½ tbsp sumac
• Grated zest and juice 1 lemon, plus
wedges to serve
• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra
for drizzling
• 3 whole sustainable sea bream (make
sure they’re gutted and scaled – ask the
fishmonger to do this for you)
1 In a food processor, whizz the feta, greek
yogurt, garlic and honey with some salt and
pepper until smooth (or mash together in a
mixing bowl) – see Make Ahead. Spoon into
a large shallow bowl and use the back of
the spoon to spread it over the base.
2 In another bowl, put the cherry tomatoes,
radishes, cucumbers, onion, pitta chunks,
chopped mint and parsley, za’atar, sumac,
lemon zest and juice and olive oil, then toss
everything together well.
3 Heat the grill to high. Put the sea bream
on a baking sheet lined with foil. Pat the fish
dry with kitchen paper, then drizzle with
olive oil and season with salt. Grill for 8-10
minutes, turning halfway, until the skin is
blistered and the flesh is just cooked.
4 Spoon the fattoush salad over the feta
and yogurt mixture in the bowl, then serve
with the grilled sea bream alongside.
PER SERVING 405kcals, 19.7g fat (7.2g
saturated), 34.1g protein, 21.6g carbs
(8.4g sugars), 1.5g salt, 2.7g fibre
WINE NOTE The lemony Greek white
assyrtiko scores with this, as does a Loire
sauvignon blanc such as a sancerre.
Stuffed baked tomatoes:
mezze dish
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 20 MIN
Complete the recipe, then cool,
MAKE
AHEAD cover and chill for up to 3 days.
Reheat the stuffed tomatoes until
piping hot all the way through.
• 300ml vegetable stock
• 100g quinoa and bulgur wheat (if you
can’t find a mixed pack use 50g of each
or 100g quinoa or 100g bulgur)
• Olive oil
• ¼ tsp ground cumin
• ¼ tsp ground coriander
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed
RECIPES THE FOOD TEAM PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY SCOTT
FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL STYLING LUIS PERAL
• 6 large beef tomatoes
• 50g sun-dried tomatoes (available from
Sainsbury’s)
• 100g Unearthed Olives with Rosemary &
Black Pepper (from Waitrose and Ocado),
roughly chopped
• 100g chargrilled artichokes, roughly
chopped (available from Sainsbury’s,
Morrisons and Waitrose)
• 2 tbsp rose harissa
• 4 tbsp pine nuts, lightly toasted in a
dry frying pan
• Large handful each fresh parsley, mint
and oregano, roughly chopped
• 75ml dry white wine
• 50g unsalted butter, softened
1 Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5. In
a saucepan, bring the stock up to the boil,
then tip in the mixed quinoa/bulgur wheat, a
glug of oil, the spices, salt and freshly
ground black pepper. Bring back up to a fast
simmer and cook until tender and all the
liquid is absorbed (top up with a little more
boiling water if needed). Take off the heat.
2 Heat a glug of olive oil in a frying pan
and cook the onion for 5 minutes until
beginning to soften. Add the garlic and
continue cooking for 2 minutes.
3 Cut a 2cm slice off the top of each beef
tomato (set aside), then use a teaspoon
to scoop out the pulp inside. Put the pulp
in a sieve set over a bowl to drain away any
excess water. Roughly chop what’s left in
the sieve and add to the pan with the onion
and garlic. Increase the heat and continue
cooking until the mixture has reduced and
thickened (about 5-10 minutes).
4 Add the sun-dried tomatoes, chopped
olives, chopped artichoke hearts, harissa
and most of the pine nuts and chopped
herbs to the pan. Stir to combine. Tip in the
cooked grains and stir again.
5 Put the hollowed-out beef tomatoes in a
lightly oiled baking dish and fill each one
with the grain/veg mixture. Put the tomato
tops back on, then pour over the wine and
dot the butter over the tomatoes. Bake for
20-25 minutes, basting half way through
with the cooking juices, until the tomatoes
are tender. Garnish with the remaining pine
nuts and herbs, then serve with a crisp
mixed salad and crusty bread for mopping.
PER SERVING 314kcals, 21.5g fat (5.8g
saturated), 6.4g protein, 18.7g carbs
(7.5g sugars), 1.3g salt, 5.8g fibre
WINE NOTE Zesty sauvignon blanc; a fruity
southern French pays d’oc is best of all.
A SUN-DRENCHED FEAST
Stuffed baked
tomatoes – serve as
part of a mezze with
olives, artichokes
and the lamb and
houmous dish

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 15
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HOW TO MASTER
Mediterranean cooking
With great ingredients, it doesn’t take much to boost the flavour of your dishes and give them
that authentic sun-drenched taste. Here’s our guide to adding a touch of the Med to your food

3 WAYS TO USE ANCHOVIES K NOW

(for people who think they YOUR
don’t like them) OLI V ES
EDERMIT LUQUES ALFONSO TAGGIASCA

1
Can you tell Turkey Firm France One Peru Juicy Italy Small,
Whizz or pound marinated anchovies
your kalamata and orange of the finest with a tart, sweet, varies
to a paste with some freshly chopped from taggiasca? hued with olives; mild grape-like from blond
rosemary, a splash of olive oil and a spoonful You can now… a big stone tasting flavour to deep violet
of capers. Season with black pepper, then
brush over barbecued lamb or beef steaks.

2 For an umami punch, whizz marinated

anchovies with pitted black olives, lemon
zest and juice, freshly chopped oregano and a
CALIFORNIA KALAMATA MANZANILLA NOCELLARA DE HALKIDIKI
(AKA MISSION) Greece Spain Soft BELICE Greece
splash of olive oil to make an easy tapenade. USA Mild Shiny skin, and green Italy Mild Crisp with
Spoon onto crostini or use to stuff pork fillet. with a grassy rich and with a salty with a a mellow

3 Gently fry onions with a few anchovies,
stir in cream and simmer until thickened.
Spread on shop-bought pizza bases, top with
grated parmesan and torn mozzarella and
scatter with chopped tomatoes and black
olives. Bake until crisp, then scatter with basil.
taste savoury flavour buttery taste flavour
SKILL TO MASTER Fresh tomato sauce
1 Cut small crosses in the bases of 1kg ripe
tomatoes, drop into a pan of boiling water, leave for
30 seconds, then lift out with a slotted spoon. When
cool enough to handle, peel and roughly chop.
2 Heat a glug of oil in a sauté pan and fry a small
chopped onion with a pinch of salt for 10 minutes
until softened. Stir in 2 chopped garlic cloves, add
the tomatoes, then simmer for at least 30 minutes
or until you have a rich and thick sauce consistency.
3 Season to taste with salt, pepper and a squeeze of
lemon juice. Add chopped fresh basil, if you like.

HOW TO ADD INSTANT MED FLAVOURS TO MIDWEEK DISHES

EASY GARNISH QUICK SALSA CHICKEN STUFFING
Fry parma ham slices in a dry frying pan Finely chop ½ pack drained artichokes, Whizz olives and feta with a handful
until crisp. Cool, then crumble into a bowl then mix with a handful of mashed peas, of fresh basil and the zest and juice
with finely chopped chopped mint and of 1 lemon. Cut
rosemary, grated the grated zest a pocket in 2
lemon zest and black and juice of ½ chicken breasts,
pepper. Sprinkle over lemon. Serve with stuff with the
pasta bakes, soups grilled meat/fish. mix, then bake.
and salads. • Sainsbury’s • Waitrose Greek
• Waitrose Parma Chargrilled Olives with Feta,
Ham, £3.09 Artichokes, £3 £3.73

IN ASSOCIATION WITH