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18th century: France and England

 In the 18th century pale skin was still fashionable. So were dark
eyebrows. Women also still used rouge abundantly. Perfume was also
common. In the early 18th century a new scent was made in Cologne.
Later in the century it became known as Eau de Cologne.
 It was considered appropriate to wear makeup and to not be ashamed
to do so.
Cosmetics were used heavily in the 18th century, the use of cosmetics
was not only for vanity but for practical uses too - they could hide the
effects of disease, blemishes, the sun or age. Women would wear thick
layers of white paint made from lead to conceal and lighten their skin.
 Rouge was used on their cheeks in an upside triangle or circular
shape to brighten their face up.
 Eyebrows tended to be shaped like a half-moon and tapered at the
ends, they would be darkened with burnt cork, lampblack, kohl or
Occasionally false brows made from mouse fur were worn.
Eye lids were usually left bare but lashes would often be darkened.
 Small lips were favoured, with a larger bottom lip, this was to create a
soft and gentle rosebud effect. Lips were painted red; vermillion was
painted onto the lips or distilled vinegar was used to redden the lips.
 The ideal woman of the 18th century had hair that was black, brown, or blond
(particularly fashionable during Marie-Antoinette’s reign); strong red hair was
unfashionable and generally would be dyed a different color, although chestnut
and strawberry blond were popular. Her hair was of wavy or curly texture. Her
forehead was high, her cheeks plump and rosy, and her skin was white.
Fashionable eye colors included black, chestnut, or blue; eyebrows were divided
(ie no monobrows), slightly full, semicircular, and tapered at the ends in a half
moon shape. Her lips were small, with a slightly larger bottom lip creating a
rosebud effect, soft, and red. The paintings of François Boucher are particularly
useful as a visual reference for this look.
 Small lips were favoured with a larger bottom jip, this was to create a
soft and gentle rosebud effect. Lips were painted red; vermillion was
painted onto the lips or distilled vinegar was used to redden the lips

 The Petit Albert was an influential text, and other renowned 18th century beauty books
like The Toilet of Flora carry exact translations of its recipes, without giving credit.

 Toothpaste: made from powdered myrrh and sage, mixed with honey.

Wash-balls are an old term for complexion soaps (as opposed to laundry soaps, which was
the primary use of soap for a long time.)
 Wash-balls: 1 pound of Florentine orris root, 4 ounces of storax, 2 ounces of yellow
sandalwood, half an ounce of cloves, as much of fine cinnamon, one nutmeg. Powder and mix
all ingredients. Then take two pounds of "good white soap" (castile or lye) shaved and put
into about 4 pints of water for 4 - 5 days. Take 12 grains of ambergris mixed with gum
tragancath and whatever kind of floral water you like and mix this in. "And from this paste
you form wash-balls which you place in the sun to dry, and store them in jars with some
Remedy for pimples: Wrap saltpeter in a cloth and moisten it with clean water. Pat the
pimples over with this cloth

Rosemary flowers
Hungary Water: 1.5 pounds rosemary flowers, 1/2
lb pennyroyal flowers, 1/2 lb marjoram flowers, 2 lbs
lavender flowers, covered with 3 pints of aqua vita (a
strong alcohol - vodka is acceptable.) Put it into
digestion for 24 hours in a warm place, in a well
sealed container. Then distill it.

Hungary Water is also called Queen of Hungary's

Water, and is a "water" in the sense of a Toilet Water
or Cologne, and was used originally as a medicine
that could be rubbed on the body or imbibed to
enhance health and beauty.

Hair dye: "Gold foam" (a kind of litharge*) powdered and boiled in water. Soak hair in the
hot water, the longer the darker the color will be.