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TDA2030A Ampli er DIY Kit Schematic and soldering howto

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This howto shows you the schematic of a popular TDA2030A ampli er DIY kit which is sold on eBay and other places.

After ordering the kit on eBay (search for “TDA2030A Audio Power Ampli er DIY Kit”) I received a version 1.0 PCB made by XY HI-FI with
components and a short Chinese manual on what was needed to solder the kit in stereo mode (OCL) or in mono mode (BTL or bridge). Bridge
mode doubles the output power and can be used to drive a sub-woofer loudspeaker. I cannot read Chinese and thus searched for an English
manual but did not nd any. I decided to reverse engineer the layout of the PCB to produce a schematic and better understand what I was
building.

What I nd worth noting is the way the designer routed the GND signals on the bottom of the PCB. They are all concentrated to where the power
is supplied. This is needed because high power parts of the circuit could o set GND to a non 0 volt level and cause problems in the low power
parts or other high power parts.

After carefully inspecting where all the traces go I came up with the following schematic. The schematic is mostly similar to the reference
schematic in the TDA2030A datasheet. I used the one that can be found on www.st.com (Doc ID 1459 Rev 2). The PCB cleverly combines bridge
mode (BTL) and stereo mode (OCL) by not soldering C9 or R4.

The schematic is ordered in di erent blocks. Power and recti cation, audio input and volume control, the left and right ampli er.

The power and recti cation block recti es the double AC voltage and stabilizes it into 2 DC voltages. The negative and positive voltage. You can
use a symmetric DC source to power the circuit and connect it directly to C1 and C2.

Audio input is connected to a double RCA connector and the volume is controlled by a 50K ohm stereo potentiometer. I guess it is logarithmic.

The left and right ampli er block amplify the audio coming from the stereo potentiometer and output it to the PCB connectors on the right.

* The schematic shows extra diodes (D1 to D4). These are not on the PCB but I added them to the schematic because the are recommended by
the datasheet. There purpose is to protect the output of the TDA2030A ampli er to voltages larger than the positive and negative supply.

The TDA2030A ampli er chip is protected by a thermal shutdown mechanism and can be short-circuited making it safe to use.

Let go solder the PCB and components into a working ampli er!

5x resistor 22K Ohm 1%. Color code: red, red, black, red, brown.
Bend the legs (1cm spacing) and then solder R1, R3, R6, R7. Optionally R4. After soldering, cut of the excess legs sticking out of the back.
R4 is only needed when you are going to drive 1 speaker in bridge mode. Do not solder when using the ampli er to drive 2 speakers in
stereo mode.

2x resistor 680 Ohm 1%. Color code: blue, gray, black, black, brown.
Solder R2, R5.

2x resistor 1 Ohm 1%. Color code: brown, black, black, silver, brown.
Solder R8, R9.

2x capacitor 0.1uF. Marking: 0.1

Solder C7, C8.

3 terminal pcb screw connector.Solder it on the left side of the board next to the markings “AC GND AC”.
Note: solder it with the holes of the connector facing outward so you can later connect the power supply wires.

2x 2 terminal pcb screw connector.

Slide the connectors into each other in a way that you get a 4 terminal connector. Each terminal has a slot and ridge that interlock with its
neighbor. Solder the now joined connector pair on the right side next to the markings “OUT GND GND OUT”.

4x 22uF 50V capacitor.

Solder C3, C4, C5, C6.
Note: the longer leg indicates the positive side of the capacitor and must be put into the hole marked with the “+”-sign.

2x 2.2uF 50V capacitor.

Solder C10. Optionally C9.
Solder C9 only when driving 2 speakers in stereo. Do not solder C9 when using bridge mode to drive 1 speaker.

1x stereo potentiometer.
Solder it on the PCB where it is marked “W”.

1x stereo RCA audio connector.

Solder it on the pcb where it is marked “INPUT”.

1x 4A 600V bridge recti er.

Solder “D”.
Note: the longer leg indicates the positive side of the recti er and must be put into the top hole.

2x TDA2030A ampli er chip.

Solder IC1, IC2.
Note: keep in mind that you align the chips so that they can be mounted to the same heatsink. Maybe now is the time to prepare the heatsink
and drill holes. You can mount the ampli er to the heatsink using the isolation pad, isolation bushing and screw.

2x capacitor 3300uF 25V.

Solder C1 and C2.
Note: Long leg in +.

You are now done! Go hookup 1 or 2 speakers, a power and audio source.
If you are using bridge mode, the 1 speaker must be connected only to the two “OUT” connections. Do no connect GND when using bridge mode.

I soldered one on BTL (bridge mode) so C9 is not mounted:

During testing I played some MP3 les and the TDA2030A ampli er sounded good. (for the amount payed it ampli ed perfect.) I did manage to
blowup the left channel by driving a small Mabuchi motor with a diode connected in series. This translated into a very hot TDA2030A, curious
about when the magic smoke got out I ramped up the power supply and waited. Only the solder on the TDA2030A started to melt, but no smoke.
I guess TDA2030A ampli ers do not run on magic smoke. Replacing the broken TDA2030A with a new one restored its function.

After the blown TDA2030A adventure I decided to mount the protection diodes. I guessed the voltage from a running motor feeding back into the
ampli er is not something the TDA2030A can tolerate.

I mounted the diodes on the output, just as drawn in the schematic. The longer legs are protected by heat shrink tubes. On the left I connected
the diodes to V- on capacitor C4. In the middle I scraped of some the blue solder resist and soldered the other pair of diodes to V+. The diodes are
now here to protect the output from voltages greater then V- and V+.

Want to learn more about how the TDA2030A ampli er works? In the Youtube episode “SparkFun According to Pete 9-6-11” the opamp is
explained: http://youtu.be/OMJ9WGrRf6A

Did you like this post? Please give it a thumbs up by sharing it on your social network. Thanks!

This entry was posted in circuit and tagged ampli er, eBay, kit on May 2, 2013.

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67 thoughts on “TDA2030A Ampli er DIY Kit Schematic and soldering howto”

MA
January 12, 2013 at 09:27

What possesed you to hook a motor up to a audio circuit?!?! I am looking at

this board to replace a blown up altec lansing vs2121, that just stopped working the
other day. Nice post as it is only thing that explains it for a noob in this stu .

Showing how you hooked it up to power supply and speaker wiring would also
be incredibly helpful. I have no idea what the knobs do? left right and woofer volume(the version I am looking at. )
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1CH-TDA2030A-Audio-Ampli er-DIY-Components-Kit-S4-/260702879762?
pt=US_Ampli er_Parts_Components&hash=item3cb31a4012
It looks like a good match for the altec lansing board!!!

If you can show some pictures of nished project of yours cool.

Or send me some.

Reply ↓

cw
February 16, 2013 at 11:51

thanks for taking the time do put this up. it is a great resource.

Reply ↓

Clefton Bacdecao
June 8, 2013 at 05:52

Very helpful to electronics technician to further understand the application of this Integrated Circuit.
Thank you for posting this.

Reply ↓

Chris Gorman
September 4, 2013 at 23:11

I probably won’t get a feedback before I give this a go but I bought the same kit and using it for ampli er in a electromechanical racing game. The
old amp was similar yet from 1969 . Two RCA jacks fed noise from the games mechanical parts. The rst RCA plug is wired into a relay coil, it makes
noise magnetically when the road motor is going faster , end of the motor has a metal wheel centered around a metal magnetic housing. The
second rca jack is plugged into a pick up cartridge that receives noise from a crash sound (a simple metal plate getting hit by a solenoid plunger). I
wired this up as a BTL connection I think that was correct. It only uses one speaker any suggestions before I plug this in?
Thanks
Chris

Reply ↓

Michael Yonus
October 5, 2013 at 22:34

Hello,
I bought this board kit for a little amp to use for bench testing audio lters and e ect boxes and whatever else i invent that makes sound.
However I didn’t pay close enough attn to the power supply requirements of this board. Seems this takes a 12VAC as apposed to DC and nowhere
– anywhere can I nd any documentation that speci es what the current rate min/ max is. For example: I have a couple of wallwart AC power
supplies rated at output of 12vac 850 mA, 12vac 500mA. These just dosent seem like they would have enough to power this.

I also bought the companion NE5532 Volume Tone control board kit 10 times pre-amp DIY For Audio Ampli er. This requires a 15VAC/ and once
again I am unable to nd current rating for these power supply requirements.

I am not familiar with AC circutry, mainly stick to 12VDC applications. but thought this would be a good project to start larning.

What I would like to do is build a dual power supply that will send 15v to the pre-amp and 12vac to the power amp.

One thing for sure is i’m not going to just plug these up to the wall, that sounds like suicide. And as much as I don’t fear death, the smoke and ash
I leave behind just might hurt someone else. Not to mention the smell.

So If anyone has any bright ideas, precautions and next step learning, please drop me an email or something. You would be doing my whole Apt.
complex a great service.

Cheers!

pre-amp board:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=NE5532+Volume+Tone+control+board+kit+10+times+pre-
amp+DIY+For+Audio+Ampli er&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Reply ↓

Wayne
July 2, 2014 at 07:46

Hi, i hope you worked this out.

the NE5532 will work quite happily on +-12v (max +-22v, min +-5v) and the TDA2030 is ne on +-15v (max +-18v, min +-6v) so you could
safely use 12vac or 15vac, did you notice on the datasheet that they run on recti ed voltage……….. have you considered using 2 matching
switch-mode DC power supplies in series as follows (+) (-+) (-) connecting 1 -to+ of the other making a centre tapped DC supply, you could
e ectively bypass the recti er (unless you wanted to lose some voltage to the diodes) and go straight to the capacitors…… i’ve done this
before as it was alot cheaper than buying a replacement centre-tap AC transformer, its like clipping 2 batteries together to double the
voltage and the middle where they join is the centre tap for GND. (also works for AC or DC wire transformer PSU’s…. but get them matched
for equal output)
12v 2a is quite cheap on ebay, TDA2030 is peak 3.5a output according to the datasheet. the LM1875 and also LM675 are both pin
compatible but not really worth the upgrade for an extra 5w, as you’ll need to also upgrade the power supply (double-up), they take +-30v
max and consume 4a…… interestingly, the datasheet for the LM675 shows how to make a split rail with 3a output….. so if you’re worried
about using the home-made centre-tap from 2 power supplies, just use the full joined voltage (24v) and let the op-amp split it.
NEVER PLAY WITH MAINS VOLTAGE UNLESS YOU ABSOLUTELY KNOW WHAT YOU’RE DOING….. AND NEVER WHILE POWERED ON!!!!!!

Reply ↓

marc Post author

July 2, 2014 at 08:41

Hi Wayne, that is actually a very smart suggestion. However, I only recommend it to those who understand the concept. Mixing up
the positive and negative terminals have disastrous results when not done right the rst try.

Reply ↓

Russ Hudon
November 11, 2013 at 03:00

I bought a stereo kit from the BIG auction site and all I did was replace the 2200mf 25v power supply cap with a 35v one ’cause my ac transformer
is an old 17v control transformer. the one i bought runs them on a single ended p/s. and i also added the 2 diodes that ST recommends. i play it
on a very expensive pair of headphones and don’t need any surprises even though it’s cap coupled . i am impressed by the sound. i’m a class A
tube freak and this little chip sounds pretty tubey!!! N1ACK Russ

Reply ↓

Grit
November 30, 2013 at 20:17

The lter caps are ne rated for 25V. It’s the chip that is the limiting factor, max +/- 18VDC for 4 ohms, up to 22VDC for 8 ohms.

I want to reduce the gain by changing the R3/R2 ratio, and wonder if this can be done without altering C3.

Reply ↓

Grit
February 1, 2014 at 21:49

I made it with R2 and R5 changed from 680 to 1500 ohms which reduces the gain by half and it sounds great, less noisy, and with a high
input (CD, mixer etc) you don’t need that much gain. Maybe with a lower voltage input like phono preamp output you might want the full
gain as on the specs.

Not sure if C3 and C6 should have also been changed but it seems not to matter.

Reply ↓

marc Post author

February 1, 2014 at 22:43

Really good tip to reduce the noise.

Reply ↓

Peter Winther
January 1, 2014 at 16:55

Hi
Just bougt an readymade amp from china using this excact layout. I’m removing the C9 and installing the R4 to bridge it.
My questions are:
Do I use a stereo source? Or do I have to mix it to a mono before? If I mono it rst, where do I input the signal?

Reply ↓

marc Post author

January 1, 2014 at 19:08

Hi Peter,

You can feed it stereo, but 1 channel is now disconnected leaving you with mono audio. Depending on the music you must mix it to mono
rst.

Reply ↓

Peter Winther
January 2, 2014 at 07:34

Hi marc
Thank you for the fast reply

Reply ↓

Anup Kumar
February 5, 2014 at 13:33

hi, i have build some wat same circuit , but i am facing a problem that is when i increase the volume of both LHS & RHS a heavy knocking noise
comes. but if i increase only LHS/RHS volume its sounds good.i want to hear in both channels . pls help

Reply ↓

marc Post author

February 5, 2014 at 16:14

Hi Anup, your problem is not one I recognize. But, can you try a more powerful power supply?

Reply ↓

anaz
February 20, 2014 at 11:26

What is the transformer requirements for This circuit? 15- 0 – 15, 500mA is good for this circuit?

Reply ↓

marc Post author

February 20, 2014 at 13:24

That is a 15W transformer. Good enough for not too loud ampli cation.

Reply ↓

Eric
May 8, 2014 at 15:45

Hi
I built this. See my site under projects/Stereo Ampli er. Max voltage for the TX is 12v – 0 – 12 v This gives approx 18v – 0 – 18v (DC) This is
the max the IC’s can “stand”. Due to the high current peaks a current rating of 2A is required. I used a 3A TX as I had it in stock. In a solid
case the amp sounds very good.
Regards.
Eric

Reply ↓

marc Post author

May 8, 2014 at 16:17

Hi Eric,

That is a very nice build.

Reply ↓

Eric
May 8, 2014 at 16:52

Thanks
Eric

Reply ↓

TK
February 28, 2014 at 02:33

I have one of these kits on order from Amazon and plan to use it to research BTL con g, initially with 2030’s then once I’m happy with it, uprating
couple of single 2030 based 15W guitar practice amps to use BTL 2050’s into some higher powered Fane drivers, hopefully getting around 60W
RMS into 8ohm for a SPL of around 115dB @ 1meter. Got a Fender squire 15 and a BEHRINGER V-TONE GM-108 both itching for new master
volume that goes way past 10 for real!
If I learn anything useful I’ll follow up with further info here.

Reply ↓

TK
March 2, 2014 at 17:57

kit arrived from amazon.. was dissapointed in the 3300uF 25V caps as I’m expecting to want to go higher than 25V 0 25V when testing the
TDA2050V chips. I found 4700uF 35V 105degC from maplin.co.uk code N97KF @ £1.15 each…. they JUST squeeze in.

I was wondering if I would be allowed to post a version of your schematic diagram thats had colours inverted and adjusted so it’s black on a white
background as a customers picture on the amazon listing for this kit so future customers will see the diagram and this sites URL in the image?

Reply ↓

marc Post author

March 2, 2014 at 18:05

Good idea, go ahead!

Reply ↓

unni
April 23, 2014 at 11:59

how much power supply & amp needed on tda2030a?

Reply ↓

marc Post author

April 23, 2014 at 12:50

On max power you need a 35W power supply per tda2030a.

Reply ↓

Leon
June 8, 2014 at 20:26

Can I bridge this version the same way ,by omiting the c9 and Building the board without it? http://www.aliexpress.com/item/TDA2030A-single-
power-supply-BTL-power-ampli er-kit-can-Power-by-AC-or-DC-Li/996797756.html

Reply ↓

marc Post author

June 8, 2014 at 21:01

It looks like that version already has 2 bridges outputs. So, no.

Reply ↓

Leon
June 8, 2014 at 21:16

Ok,Unfortunately I have already ordered 2 of the kits,Is there anything I can do to use them in Mono that might bene t the sound
quality more,and still wire the speakers to both out’s on each amp board and single channel input.Initaily I wanted to use the 2
boards bridged ,Any thing I can do to doing it.

Reply ↓

marc Post author

June 8, 2014 at 21:19

Just use 1 of the boards. It already has 2 bridged mono outputs.

You can parallel bridged tda2030a, but I do not have a design for you.

Reply ↓

Leon
June 8, 2014 at 21:39

Ok, I will store these boards,until I learn more about parralell bridgeing.I fell in love with the sound of the 2030A I
want to build a nice powerful example of one and something says to go this route.thank you though for the
advice.maybe you will investigate this area too in the future.

Leon
June 8, 2014 at 20:43

I am not understanding,”R4 is only needed when you are going to drive 1 speaker in bridge mode. Do not solder when using the ampli er to drive
2 speakers in stereo mode”.does R4 left o or soldered for bridged mode.

Reply ↓

marc Post author

June 8, 2014 at 21:02

Solder R4 for bridge mode.

Reply ↓

Lorne Pace
August 4, 2014 at 22:58

Hi, people, great thread here! Just wondered if you would recommend this transformer for the above ebay kit?http://www.rock-
electronics.co.uk/store/product_info.php?cPath=38_75_300_355&products_id=1222
Thanks
Lorne

Reply ↓

marc Post author

August 4, 2014 at 23:01

Hi Lorne,

That transformer will do just ne.

Reply ↓

dan
November 8, 2014 at 12:06

Can i change 4x 22uF 50V capacitor.C3, C4, C5, C6 with Film capacitors 22uF?

Reply ↓

marc Post author

November 8, 2014 at 14:44

Hi Dan! Yes you can!

However, I am not sure if the sound image (quality) will change because of the di erent characteristics between the electrolytic and lm
capacitors.

Reply ↓

dan
November 8, 2014 at 23:33

Ok .thank you,i will try both metod ans see what souns better (i i have russian lm capacitor к73-16 22uF )

Reply ↓

Ferenc
February 21, 2015 at 18:19

Hi ..

I bought this board 1.5 years ago, in order to learn soldering. I soldered tha parts month ago, but i wasnt statis ed with the sound quality. I put it
into a box, and have totally forgotten.
Today i found it, and i thought in the last months i learned enough electronics i’ll nd the problem with this board..
My problem is.. I connect this amp board to 12V AC, everything ok.. Sound perfect.. after 10 second the sound quality starts to get lower and
lower..
The voltage of cap which is directly connected to negative gets higher, the voltage of cap which is directly connected to positive gets lower..

The higher the voltage of “negative” connected cap, the bad the sound quality is.
If i break the the supply for a while everything will be ok for few seconds.
If i connect DC 12V to the caps, the symptoms are the same.
I double checked the connections, seems ok, i changed the capacitors, nothing changed.
Does anyone have any idea how i can solve this problem ?

Thanks
Ferenc

Reply ↓

marc Post author

February 21, 2015 at 19:32

How high is high? If it rises above 16V then maybe the center tap is oating.

Reply ↓

Nikola
August 16, 2017 at 03:12

Happened to me also. Thats when you don’t connect a symetrical PS, you need 2x12VAC and GND connected, or that happens.

Reply ↓

ferenc
February 22, 2015 at 08:58

if i “turn on” the amp (12V AC, after the reciti er ca. 16V DC) i can measure on both cap 8 volts. In this case the sound quality is perfect..
10 secs later one of cap has 5v the other one has 11v, and the sound is distorsed..
20 secs later one cap has 1.6v the another one is 14.4, and become the sound fully distorsed, and starts the amp “bummmming” (sorry for my
terrible english :D)
i bought an NE 555 timer, because i wanted to learn and see how it works, and if i interrupts the power supply it works.. But i think its not normal
behaviour.
Sadly i’m not an engineer, i started to build and learn electronics 2-3 months ago as a new hobby, therefore i cant imagine what could be the
problem.

Reply ↓

marc Post author

February 22, 2015 at 10:03

Have a look at the schematic on this page. It sounds like you connected a 2 wire transformer to the ampli er. Am I correct?
If that is the case, you need another transformer with 3 wires. Namely a 12V-0V-12V AC transformer. You then connect the center tap (0V)
to GND. The other 2 into each AC input.

Reply ↓

ferenc
February 22, 2015 at 17:11

yess you’re absolutely right ! That i’ve done. I found an old 12V AC transformer and connected it directly..

I’ll look after how i can nd/make a 12V-0V-12V AC transformer. i always wanted to learn it. (it will be a good learning project tonight :))

Thanks a lot

Reply ↓

Andrew
April 16, 2015 at 11:49

Thank you so much for discovering optional resistor R4. It helped me to understand what was wrong with this ampli er!)

Reply ↓

Zack
June 12, 2015 at 10:30

First thanks for all the info on this board i bought one and put it together but when I turn on my power supply weather I have my tablet
connected or not the speakers only hum and the stereo potentiometer doesn’t seem to have an e ect no matter the position I turn it to I’m vary
new to circuitry does anyone know what could be wrong I would greatly appreciate any and all help

Reply ↓

Dave
September 5, 2015 at 12:30

I have just recently bought two of these amps and am having the same problem, I have googled extensively for a solution and have had
no luck. it may be the PSU caps.

Reply ↓

Tau k
November 1, 2016 at 07:27

hai, can i replace to lm1875?

Reply ↓

marc Post author

November 1, 2016 at 07:29

Yes, I believe you can.

http://bfy.tw/8UrN

Reply ↓

Joe
January 22, 2017 at 01:20

So do you have to use an AC power supply? Is there a way to use DC.

Thanks.

Reply ↓

marc Post author

January 22, 2017 at 11:24

Sure, just use a symetrical dc power supply.

Reply ↓

peter
September 13, 2017 at 09:14

Can you describe it and show how to connect it to the pcb.

Reply ↓

marc Post author

September 13, 2017 at 09:31

Hi Peter, have a look at the rst picture. There are markings on the pcb that tell what should be connected.

Reply ↓

peter
September 13, 2017 at 14:04

But thats for AC not DC,

marc Post author

September 13, 2017 at 18:22

Yes, that is correct. But connecting -15v to one AC terminal and +15v to the other and 0V to gnd it will work.

Nikola
August 16, 2017 at 03:15

Hey,

First o , I’d like to say your blog post is the most informative one on the internet regarding those chinese kits. Never seen so much information
anywhere on the website. I’ve built a couple of those kits and for me, they sound great. I also use them for experimenting. They are cheap, but the
transformer raises the price.

Is there any way to nd the current ratings for the transformers? How much per one TDA2030A? I’ve seen 3.5A is the max, but I wonder how
much it actually needs. It’s useless to measure the power draw and use ohms law, since a lot is wasted in the heat.

Also, is it possible to remove the potentiometer and set a xed voltage? I’m using a pre-amp and 2 bridged boards, I don’t need the pots on the
PCBs. And there’s a lot of white noise out of the speakers while the pots are maxed out.

Reply ↓

Richard
October 5, 2017 at 07:15

Please tell me more about the “heat sink”. I suppose we fabricate that in the eld, since I don’t see one in the kit. I also suppose the dimensions
are loose, but it must be larger than a paper clip and smaller than a tin can, but how about a ball park gure?
Also, I may have trou

I love your instruction method!

Reply ↓

marc Post author

October 6, 2017 at 07:07

Hi Richard, take any cpu cooling block, it will work just ne. Also, you paperclip cooler will also word, only on low volume.

Reply ↓

Richard
October 5, 2017 at 07:18

Continuation of previous comment, lost in my crude typing skills.

I may have trouble nding adapters from my input devices to the input jacks. Any suggestions on a source, since Radio Shack bit the dust?

Reply ↓

marc Post author

October 6, 2017 at 07:09

Ebay is full of component. Or if you can order with the bigger guys, look at element14/farnell.

Reply ↓

Richard
October 6, 2017 at 07:56

Thanx for the info, guys. I’m a 91 year old Newbie, having fun with Arduino stu and appreciate the instructions and commentary in this great
presentation.

Reply ↓

marc Post author

October 6, 2017 at 13:18

No problem Richard, have fun!

Reply ↓

Nikola
October 24, 2017 at 04:05

Hi,

Any altering of components to change the value of high/low tones?

Reply ↓

marc Post author

October 24, 2017 at 21:31

Hi Nikola. I do not think you can change any component on board to change the tone.

I would connect some kind of preampli er with tone control to do that.

Marc.

Reply ↓

Richard
December 2, 2017 at 16:04

Could you be more speci c as to the actual connection points to apply DC power in this circuit?
Also, is the output from a microphone or a guitar pickup adequate to apply to this ampli er?
Thanks for helping this out-of-date tinkerer.

Reply ↓

marc Post author

December 2, 2017 at 18:10

Hi Richard,

DC voltage can be connected. Use +12V and -12V. See my schematic. Connect +12V to V+ and -12V to V-. Connect gnd to gnd of the power
supply.
An old (or new!) 12V AC transformer would be easier to connect.

Microphone and guitars need a pre-ampli er. I would be surprised if it would work without.

Marc.

Reply ↓

gikunda
April 22, 2018 at 22:02

my ampli er have a problem of blowing the ics I have replaced three of them more than two times? what is the problem?

Reply ↓

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