Bodice Block To Bra

Developing A Simple Bra Pattern from Basic Bodice Block – Learning ... https://web.archive.org/web/20130719172623/http://www.burdastyle.com...
Using a custom fitted Basic Bodice Block constructed previously, a detailed, step-by-step explanation of how
to create a bra pattern is presented. The overall idea is that if you have your own bodice block, by following
these steps you will be able to construct a custom-fitted bra pattern.
References :
1) Ann Hagar, Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear, 2nd ed., Blackwell Publishing:
Oxford, 2004, 279 pp.
2) Winifred Aldrich, Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear, 5th ed., Blackwell Publishing: Oxford, 2008,
215 pp.
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Fashion, Sewing Patterns, Inspiration, Community, and Learning | Burda... https://web.archive.org/web/20130702015238/http://www.burdastyle.com...
This is a basic blouse block, custom constructed for a woman with a 36 inch bust, 35 inch chest, 32 inch
waist, a 14 inch nape to waist measurement, and an 8.5 inch waist to hip measurement. The bodice block (the
term used for this kind of pre-pattern template) shown does not include the waist darts. Details on
constructing a basic bodice block from an arbitrary set of measurements will be provided in a second "How
To" - this one used the process described in the Aldrich book given as a reference.
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In order to proceed to the next step, the front dart needs to be moved - this is done by cutting along the line
indicated, rotating the triangle of paper and retaping it to the other edge. Also, the block must be cut down the
middle of the three dashed lines, and the two pieces slid across each other (they will hence overlap in the
middle), so that the total bust measurement from CB to CF is the exact bust measurement measured from the
body (that is, the ease that was introduced in the process of creating the basic bodice block is being
removed!). Note that for both this diagram and the previous one (and all subsequent ones), no seam
allowances are shown. The two horizontal lines are the waist line and the bust line.
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The result of these operations is shown in this Figure 3 - note the narrowing of the armhole and the shifted
dart on the right (front section of the blouse). A new centre line has been redrawn half way between the
previous edges when overlapped.
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There are two ways of introducing appropriately sized darts.
Method #1 : Two waist darts are added before the "basic bra block" is drawn in. The width of the basic waist
darts are determined by the difference in measurement between the bust measurement and the waist
measurement, divided by two (because the basic block is only half the garment), and then divided by three
(there are three waist darts, the two shown and one in the middle that is lost in the overlapped region). For the
purposes of the bra construction, the width of both the waist darts and the front bodice dart are doubled, so as
to create a raised "cup" shape for the breast.
Method #2 : A somewhat more accurate way of estimating the dart sizes is by using an "overbust" and an
"underbust" measurement, in addition to the bust measurement itself. The width of the dart along the top line
of the bra form is determined by half the difference between the overbust and the bust, while the width of the
front dart along the bottom of the bra form is half the difference between the bust and the underbust
measurement, minus the small dart width associated with the back dart (width about 2.5 cm or 1" at the waist
level).
Shown also are the side seam located at the central line (B-G), and the "forward front seam" which is to the
right of the side seam and tilted forward at the bottom.
The upper edge of the basic bra block is constructed by marking the left edge at Centre Back (CB) 1.5 cm
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above the bust line (point A), marking the central seam 2.5 cm above the bust line (point B), marking each
side of the bust dart a distance of 9.0 cm from the bust point (points C and D - note that the lines shown
follow the doubled dart size, not the dart shown), and marking the rightmost edge 2.5 cm above the bustline
(at Centre Front CF, point E). The points A-B-C-D-E are then connected by lines. For small sizes, reduce
each of these measurements by 0.3 cm, while for plus sizes, add 0.5 cm to each measurement.
The lower edge of the basic bra block is constructed by marking the leftmost edge (point F) 2 cm below the
bustline, the side seam (point G) 4.5 cm below the bustline, the two sides of the front waist dart (points H and
I) at a distance of 7.5 cm from the bustpoint (BP), and the rightmost edge 2.5 cm below the bustline (point J
at CF). The points F-G-H-I-J are then connected by straight lines. As for the upper edge, the distances are
reduced by 0.3 cm for small sizes and increased by 0.5 cm for plus sizes.
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The next step will be to cut out the basic bra block as drawn here. At this time the back bra strap will be bent
forward to remove the dart shown. This could be done at a later step as well, it is simply convenient to get
this manipulation out of the way now.
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The cut shape of the basic bra block is shown overlaid onto the bodice block. Note that the straps have also
been cut and placed where the would connect to the bra block.
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Next, we shall cut along the bustline from the CF edge (rightmost edge) to the bust point (BP in Figure 4),
and rotate the two sections created to eliminate the upper and lower darts, taping across these seams. This
converts the vertical dart to a horizontal dart.
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In addition to switching the vertical darts for a horizontal one, we have also drawn a circular shape
(hemisphere) through the lower piece and cut along this line. The circular section begins 1 cm (2/5") forward
of the top of the forward front seam.
This is a design choice - from the basic bra pattern shown in the previous step, several possible variations in
bra design are possible. In this example, we are developing a design that gives a fair amount of support to the
breast without, however, using an underwire.
Note that this results in four pieces - the back strap, the lower cup, the upper cup and the frontspiece…
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To increase the clarity, we get rid of the background bodice block, which has started to make things
confusing.
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The next step is the result of another design choice, and could be done differently. The pattern produced by
the previous step could have been finalized per se. In this step, we improve the support offered the breast by
raising the lower cup slightly. The increase may range from about 0.5 to 1.5 cm, depending on the amount of
additional support desired. I have chose to raise the cup by 0.5 cm - the new shape of the lower cup is shown
drawn in.
The upper cup must be reduced by a similar amount, resulting in the curved lower edge shown drawn in. In
addition, however, by adding curvature to the upper seam of the lower section and reducing the curvature of
the lower seam of the upper section, we have an unbalanced seam length. To correct for this, the upper
section is cut along the dart direction and spread to reintroduce the necessary width…
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The final step introduced yet another design choice to enhance support for the breast, by increasing slightly
the fabric that sits under the cup. The frontspiece is reconnected back to the back strap. In this final step, the
upper seam is changed to introduce a strap again, the shaping at the back is changed for a more streamlined
design, and the bra pattern is separated at the side seam.
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This is the final result of all these manipulations. The CF fold has been restored, and the locations of notches
to help match the pieces during sewing has been introduced.
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The final pattern generated by the process. I have introduced a 1 cm seam allowance (the seam allowance is
small because for lingerie you don't want to have to deal with a lot of fabric bulk in your seams), and added
in the notches. The strip is 3/4" (2 cm) wide, that is, double its final width. This pattern is to scale at 1:4 - that
is, enlarge it four times and it will be an exact fit for the original pattern…
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Bodice Block To Bra

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Developing A Simple Bra Pattern from Basic Bodice Block – Learning ... https://web.archive.org/web/20130719172623/http://www.burdastyle.com...

There are two ways of introducing appropriately sized darts.

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