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SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR
MANUAL
1
SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR
(45 DAYS)
Pre requisites of Training
Duration of training 312 hrs (39 Working days)

296 hrs Instructor led training
16 hrs Self development
5th Standard Pass or above

Minimum qualification
Should be able to Read & write local language
English knowledge preferred but not
compulsory
Minimum age 18 – 35 years
2
SESSION PLAN
Material Teaching Method

S.No. Detailed Session Plan Days
Required
1 Different Parts of a garment (Shirt Face to face interaction

,Trouser and T-shirt) Garments Demonstration
2 Trims & Accessories Zipper, Buttons, Face to face interaction

1 Velcro, Rivets etc
3 Units and measurement (Inches Scale/inch tape Face to face interaction
and centimeter) Demonstration
4 Introduction to quality & its Importance
5 Ergonomics 2
6 Introduction to sewing tools Clipper, Scissors Face to face interaction
,marking Pencil &
tailor’s chalk
Introduction to Industrial Sewing Chalk) Sewing
Industrial Face to face interaction
Machine (Machine Parts Identification) Machine Demonstration
7 SNLS machine setting Industrial Sewing Face to face interaction
o Replace bobbin Machine Demonstration
o Change A needle
o Threading of Machine
3
8 Stitch Defects (Unbalanced Stitch Defective samples Show the mock of defects
,Skip
Stitch ,Puckering, Loose stitch 4&5
,Needle hole)
FABRIC EXERCISE
9 Exercise-1 Industrial Sewing Face to face interaction
Foundation Skills with loop Machine, Scissor, Demonstration
exercise Variation (Distance – thread , fabric etc.
Accurate Stop and Start)
4&5
10 Exercise -2 Industrial Sewing Face to face interaction
Straight Stitch (with Sharp turn ) Machine, Demonstration
Scissor,
thread ,
6 fabric etc.
Curve Stitches Machine, Demonstration
Scissor,
thread ,
fabric etc.
Top Stitch Machine, Demonstration
Scissor, thread
7 , fabric etc.
Edge Stitch Machine, Scissor, Demonstration
thread , fabric etc.
3
Hemming Machine, Scissor, Demonstration
15 Revision of all Exercises (Test) 8 thread , fabric etc.
SEAM
French seam Machine, Demonstration
Scissor, thread
9 , fabric etc.
Flat & fell seam Machine, Demonstration
Scissor, thread
9 , fabric etc.
OPERATION

Collar construction (Run stitch) Machine, Demonstration
Scissor, thread
10-12 , fabric etc.
19 Exercise - 10 Industrial Sewing Face to face interaction
Top Stitch Collar Machine, Demonstration
Scissor, thread
, fabric etc.
20 Exercise – 11 Make Diamond Sleeve Industrial Sewing Face to face interaction
Placket Machine, Demonstration
Scissor, thread
Steps- , fabric etc.
1. Sew Under sleeve Placket
2. Fold upper sleeve Placket
3. Sew upper Placket to sleeve
4. Top Stitch Sleeve Placket
13-15
21 Exercise -12- Attach Zipper Industrial Sewing Face to face interaction
(Trousers) Steps- Machine, Scissor, Demonstration
1. Attach Fly to panel
2. Attach Zipper
3. Join Panel
16-17
22 Exercise -13- Sew Bone Pocket and Industrial Sewing Face to face interaction
Top Stitch Machine, Scissor, Demonstration
Steps- thread , fabric etc.
1. Attach Facings to Pocket bag

2. Cut bone
3. Sew Bone
4. Top Stitch on bone
18-20
23 Cut Part Bundling and ticketing Face to face interaction
21 Demonstration
24 Revision of all the Exercise
4
25 Introduction to Over Lock Machine Industrial Sewing
& Machine Setting (Threading, Machine
needle change ,SPI) 22
26 Exercise 1 (O/L) – Over lock Square Industrial Sewing Face to face interaction
Machine, Demonstration
Scissor, thread
, fabric etc.
27 Exercise 2 (O/L) – Over lock Circle Industrial Sewing Face to face interaction
Machine, Scissor, Demonstration
23
28 O/L Exercises Revision Industrial Sewing
Machine, Scissor,
29 Final Test Trainee assessment
Placement & Career Counseling on quality and
24 efficiency
30 Life Skills
25-26
5
SESSION PLAN
S.No Detailed Session Plan Days Material Required Teaching Method
1 SHIRT
Steps-
Placket fusing, Placket stitching
Pocket Attachment ,Yoke Attachment
Shoulder joining, Show the Sample,
Industrial Sewing
Sleeve plkt stitching Practical
27-30 Machine, Scissor,
Sleeve joining with armhole Demonstration –
Side loading Drafting /Sewing
Cuff Preparation and Attachment
Collar Making
Collar Attachment
Button Hole Button Stitching
2 BLOUSE
Steps- Show the Sample,
Industrial Sewing
Blouse Drafting, 30 Practical
Demonstration –
Blouse Cutting thread , fabric etc.
Drafting /Sewing
Blouse Stitching
3 SALWAR KAMEEZ
Steps- Show the Sample,
Salwar Drafting, Cutting 34 Industrial Sewing
Practical
Kameez Drafting, Cutting 35 Demonstration –
Salwar Stitching Drafting /Sewing
Kameez Stitching
4 CHURIDHAR Show the Sample,
Steps- Industrial Sewing
Practical
Churidhar Drafting,Cutting 38 Demonstration –
Churidhar Stitching Drafting /Sewing
6
Post Training
Assessment:-
 On Going Training Assessment :-

i) Preparation of Samples of Exercises, Seams, Shirt, Blouse, Salwar-Kameez, and
Churidhar.
ii) Preparation of Samples of Stitching Defects.
iii) Regularly conduct of Class test
Project/file will be prepared by candidate using the all above Samples.
 After Course Completion:-

i) Theoretical & Practical exam.
Outcome of the Course:-
 Machine Operator / Tailor

 Self Employment
7
UNIT - 1
CHAPTER - 1
Different Parts of a Garment

DAY -1
CLASS ROOM CONCEPTS

Our body comprises of different body parts like nose, eyes, ears, hands, legs etc. Each part
has different functions and shapes. Similarly a garment is made from different patterns
which are part of garments. These patterns are sewn together to make one complete
garment. Every pattern part covers different body part and has different function for
example
Garment Part Corresponding body part
Sleeve Arms
Front panel Chest
Back panel + yoke Back
Cuffs Wrists
Collar Neck
Trousers Legs
Cap Head
8
PARTS OF A SHIRT: FRONT
-
Collar: The part of a shirt that encompasses the neckline of the garment, often so as to fold or
roll over comes in various shapes.
Yoke: A shaped piece of fabric in a garment, fitted about or below the neck and shoulders, from
which the rest of the garment hangs. It can be split in two, called the “split-yoke.”
Placket front: A standard shirt front with a placket sewn on top of the shirt front.
Plain front: A standard shirt front with a hidden placket usually lapped left over right for men, and
vice versa for women.
Fly front: A flap of material down one side of the front opening of a garment to conceal buttons
or fasteners.
Armhole: The opening in a dress shirt, which the arms are sewn into.
Sleeve: The part of a garment that covers the arm and is usually cut wider than the cuffs. Most
sleeve lengths fall between 32 and 36 inches.
Sleeve placket: A distinctive feature that is sewn on the sleeve; the opening of the sleeve fabric
near the cuff.
Cuff: A fold or band serving as a trimming or finish for the bottom of a sleeve. Some cuff styles
include French cuffs and barrel cuffs.
9
PARTS OF A SHIRT: BACK
.
Back collar height: The part of the collar that is folded over (at the backside of the dress shirt).
Yoke: A shaped piece of fabric in a garment, fitted about or below the neck and shoulders, from
which the rest of the garment hangs. It can be split in two, called the “split yoke.”
Hang loop: A piece of fabric sewn into the yoke seam that allows the shirt to be hung at this
point.
Side pleats: Single fabric folds at the other parts of the shirt back.
Box pleat front: A double fabric fold, with the material folded under at each side at the back
center of a shirt.
Sleeve: The part of a garment that covers the arm and is usually cut wider than the cuffs. Most
sleeve lengths fall between 32 and 36 inches.
Darts: A tapered seam of fabric for adjusting the fit of a garment.
Hem: The finished lower edge of the dress shirt body.
Tail: The part of a shirt below the waistline.
10
ANATOMY OF A SHIRT: THE COLLAR
GARMENT PART DESCRIPTION AND FUNCTION
Collar base (or collar stand) The band of fabric sewn into the neckline of a dress
shirt, which the collar attaches to.
Collar leaf The outside fabric of the collar, located at the front sides, which is
folded over the collar base.
Collar point length The distance between the collar point and the top of the collar leaf.
Collar front band The area on the base that sits between the collar points.
Collar point spread The distance between the collar points
11
PARTS OF A FORMAL TROUSER
Waist
Back
Front
Bottom

Front panel Front half of leg it covering front portion
Back panel Back half of the leg covering back portion
Waist band Circular fabric strip around waist joining front and back from top
Belt loops Vertical thin fabric strips with top and bottom stitched with waist band.
They are used to hold the belt at right position.
Pocket Enveloped space inside with slit outside for carrying objects
Pleat Pleats just below the waistband on the front. It’s a design feature
When the pleats open towards the pockets they are called reverse
pleats and when they open toward the zipper, they are known as
forward pleats.
Fly A fly (on clothing) consists of a covering over an opening, such as a zip,
Velcro or buttons used to join the opening. It allows the garments to be put
on and taken off with greater ease
Bottom hem Most trouser-makers finish the legs by hemming the bottom to prevent
fraying.
12
PARTS OF A TROUSER: THE POCKET (back welt pocket with flap)
Pocket bag A fabric envelop inside garment with pocket as opening
Flap A fabric lid to cover pocket opening it’s a design feature
Flap Lining Fabric used underneath main flap fabric
Welts Upper and lower Pocket mouth opening
13
PARTS OF CARGO PANTS
Belt Belt loop

Yoke
Front Dart
Fly pockets Flap
Back Patch pockets
Side patch pockets
Back
Front
Panel
Bottom
Fornt Panel Front half of leg it covering front portion
Back Panel Back half of the leg covering back portion

Belt Circular fabric strip around waist joining front and back from top
Belt Loop Vertical thin fabric strips with top and bottom stitched with waist band.
They are used to hold the belt at right position.
Yoke It is a design feature.
Dart Dart is used to give the shape to back panel as per the Hips.
Front Pocket Enveloped space inside with slit outside for carrying objects on the
front side of a garment
Back Patch Pocket Enveloped space inside with Flap outside like a patch. It’s a design
14
Feature on the Back side of a garment.
Side Patch Pocket This is a design feature & enveloped space is used for carrying object.
Flap A fabric lid to cover pocket opening it’s a design feature.
PARTS OF A ROUND NECK T-SHIRT
Neck line
Rib
Sleeve
Back
Bottom Hemming
Front

Front Panel It covers the front portion of T- shirt. One front panel is used for a
T shirt
Back Panel It covers the Back portion of T- shirt. One Back panel is used for a T
shirt
Neck Line Rib Rib is used @ neckline as it prevents fraying and Provide
stretchability & strength
Sleeve The part of a garment that covers the arm.
Bottom Hemming T-shirt bottom is finished by hemming it to prevent fraying.
15
PARTS OF A POLONECK T-SHIRT
Front Panel It covers the front portion of T- shirt. One front panel is used for
a T shirt
Back Panel It covers the Back portion of T- shirt. One Back panel is used for a
T shirt
Front Placket with A standard Polo T-shirt front with a vertical fabric strip with
Button buttons sewn on it to close two front panels sewn on top of the
T-shirt front.
Colar The part of a T-shirt that encompasses the neckline of the

garment, often so as to fold or roll over.
Sleeve The part of a garment that covers the arm

Bottom Hemming T-shirt bottom is finished by hemming it to prevent fraying.
16
CHAPTER – 2
Trims & Accessories
CLASS ROOM CONCEPTS:
TRIMS:
These are the items used in the garments for
Decoration
Utility
To make it functional
Anything other than Fabric & being used in Garment is called a trim or accessory.
Types of trims
Zipper
A zip is a popular device for temporarily joining two edges of fabric.
The components of a zipper are:
Top tape extension

Top stop
Slider
Pull tab
Tape
Chain width
Bottom stop
Bottom tape extension
Single tape width
Insertion pin
Retainer box
Reinforcement film
17
Zippers may:
Increase or decrease the size of an opening to allow or restrict the passage of

objects, as in the fly of trousers or in a pocket.
Join or separate two ends or sides of a single garment, as in the front of a jacket,
dress or skirt.
Attach or detach a separable part of the garment to or from another, as in the
conversion between trousers and shorts or the connection / disconnection of a hood
and a coat.
Decorate an item.
Thread
Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured
sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses
involved in sewing
Bias and twill Tape
Twill tape Bias Tape

Bias tape or bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric, cut on the cross-grain. The strip's fibers,
being at 45 degrees to the length of the strip, makes it stretcher as well as more fluid and
more drape able compared to a strip that is cut on grain. Many strips can be pieced together
18
into a long "tape." The tape's width varies from about 1/2" to about 3" depending on
applications. Bias tape is used in making piping, binding seams, finishing raw edges, etc. It is
often used on the edges of quilts, placemats, and bibs, around armhole and neckline edges
instead of a facing, and as a simple strap or tie for casual bags or clothing.
Lining
Lining is a material layer that enhance

Overall Look
Strength
By supporting the interiors of the garment or garment part

Hang tag
These items are used to display the information of respective product & Brand.
Embroidery
19
Embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and
thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as metal strips,
pearls, beads, quills, and sequins.
Piping
In sewing, piping is a type of trim or embellishment consisting of a strip of folded fabric

inserted into a seam to define the edges or style lines of a garment or other textile object.
Usually the fabric strip is cut on the bias, and often it is folded over a cord. It may be made
from either self-fabric (the same fabric as the object to be ornamented) or contrasting
fabric, or of leather.
Appliqués
Appliqué is a smaller ornament or device applied to

another surface. Example - Various fabrics shapes, Motifs
etc.
20
Lace
Lace is an ornamental openwork fabric or trim made into variety of designs by intricate
Manipulation of fiber or yarn.
Labels
A label is a piece of paper, polymer, cloth, or other material affixed to a container or article,
on which is printed a legend, information concerning the product and consumer.
Examples
Size label
Fit Label
Show Label etc
21
Buttons
2 hole sew through button
4 hole sew through button
Shank button
Fancy decorative buttons
A button is small fastener, which secures two pieces of fabric together or Join two
edges temporarily. Measuring Unit of button is Ligne.
Snap Fasteners
22
A snap fastener (also called stud) is a pair of interlocking discs commonly used in place of
buttons to fasten clothing. A circular lip under one disc fits into a groove on the top of the
other, holding them fast until a certain amount of force is applied. Snap fasteners are often
used in children's clothing, as they are relatively easy for children to use
Velcro
It consists of two layers:

A "hook" side, which is a piece of fabric covered with tiny hooks
And a "loop" side, which is covered with even smaller and "hairier" loops. When the
two sides are pressed together, the hooks catch in the loops and hold the pieces
together when the layers are separated, the strips make a characteristic "ripping"
sound.
Elastic
A band capable of resuming original shape after stretching or compression. Mostly used in
kids wear as kids are the rapidly growing bodies.
23
CHAPTER – 3
Units & Measurement

DAY - 2
MEASURING TAPE
A tape measure or measuring tape is a flexible form of ruler. It consists of a ribbon of cloth,
plastic, fiber glass, or metal strip with linear-measurement markings. It is a common
measuring tool. Its flexibility allows for a measure of great length to be easily carried in
pocket or toolkit and permits one to measure around curves or corners.
Fibre made measuring tape is used in the garment industry which has Inches on 1 side and
Centimeters on the other side.
Centimeters
Inches
24
Understanding An Inch
Understand what a 1/16th is.
A 1/16 of an inch is the smallest measurement on a tape measure. The distance between
every line on the tape measure is 1/16 of an inch.
Understand what a 1/8th, 1/4th, ½ (half) is.

A 1/8 of an inch is twice as big as the 1/16 of an inch. It is every other mark.
Two 1/16th together make an 1/8th of an

inch
Four 1/16th or two 1/8th make an 1/4th of an

inch
th th th
Eight 1/16 or four 1/8 or two 1/4 of an inch make ½ (half) of an inch
25
Understanding a centimeter.
In a measuring tape CM are given on the other side
1 cm is divided in to 10 small parts and every small part is known as mm
5 Small parts are called “half of a CM
10 millimeters (mm) make a centimeter (cm)

5 millimeters (mm) make ½ centimeter (cm)
Important Conversion Factors
1 Inch = 2.54 cm
1 CM = 10 mm
1 Mtr =100 cm
26
How to Use a measuring Tape
1. Hold the front of the tape at the point you wish to start the measurement from, and
extend it to the point where you want to stop.
2. The correct way to read a measurement in measuring tape is shown in the figure
below. The eye must be positioned vertically above the mark to avoid error.
Wrong method
3. Read the first large number before your stop point - this will tell you the number of
inches.
27
4. Read the smaller lines of various sizes (remembering what the various sizes mean)
up until your stop point. This will tell you your fraction of an inch.
Precautions while using tape:

1. Line up the 1-inch mark with one end of the object being measured. Sometimes
the metal hook becomes loose and can cause your measurement to be off by up
to 1/16 of an inch. Be sure to deduct 1 inch from the measurement.
2. Freeze the starting point of the measuring tape before starting the measurement
so that it doesn’t slide from initial point of measurement.
28
CHAPTER – 4
Introduction to Quality
DEFINITION
“The ability of a product or service to meet customer needs”.
In case of apparel industry, it can be summarized as
fulfilling needs which are defined for the product (constructional defects)
o Fit for use example woollen clothes are fit for use in winters, cotton in summers
etc.
Fitness for purpose (Measurement & specification defects)

o Right size for right body type
o Free from fabric and construction or measurement defects
Correct fit is one of the most important attribute for a good quality garment
Apart from right fitting a good quality garment should have
Good quality defect free fabric
Proper trims with proper placements
Correct measurements for all sizes
Properly finished garment i.e. no hanging and lose threads
29
IMPORTANCE OF QUALITY
Good quality reduces cost due to product returns, reworks and scrap
o If everyone in the organization is committed to the quality of the product
then brand will create a better value in the market.
o If alteration reduces in the factory, it will automatically increase the efficiency of
the production.
Good Quality increases Productivity of the company
Good quality results in the high market share of the company by making the goodwill
in the market.
Good quality creates a better brand value in the market and customers become loyal
to the brand.
Highly motivated employees
The Importance of quality can be stated in the following Flow chart
30
CHARACTERISTICS OF QUALITY GARMENTS:
Easy to wear
Garment has to be comfortable for the wearer otherwise wearer won’t be able
to carry it.
Example: Cotton Pants are most comfortable to wear in summer as it absorbs
sweat while Polyester Pants are comfortable in winter.
`
Easy to Use
A quality garment can be worn after certain no. of washes also.
Should Look Good
A garment which has no shade variation, ironed and folded properly. We spent even
more money for such type of garment.
Should Fit Nicely
A quality garment made for the specific size fit properly to the body of the respective
wearer.
Should be durable
A garment which is stitched uniformly without any constructional defect has
longer life then a garment which is sewn poorly. It creates a brand value and People
buy them again and again.
Any functionality should not be hindered
All the accessories attached to the garment should function their purpose
properly. Example: if zip is attached to a trouser and it doesn’t fulfill the purpose
then people will not buy the garment.
31
QUALITY CONTROL
The term “Quality control” denotes all those activities which are directed to
maintaining and improving it. In specification terms it involves:-
1. Setting of Quality Targets
2. Appraisal of conformance
3. Taking Corrective action where any deviation is noticed
4. Planning for improvements in quality
Inspection process is used to control the quality in apparel sector.
Inspection
In apparel sector, quality control or inspection occurs at three stages
Raw Material Inspection
o Fabric Inspection
The entire fabric received by garment manufacturing factory from fabric
supplier needs to be inspected for specification particulars & quality
standards before it is taken for production process so that the desired quality
of the finished product is achieved.
32
o Accessories inspection
Interlinings
Sewing thread
Zippers
Buttons
And any other accessory, being used in garment
In Process Inspection
In-Process Inspection means the inspection of parts before they are assembled into a
complete product. In apparel manufacturing, this means inspection at various points in
the entire manufacturing process from spreading fabric to pressing/Finishing.
Final Inspection
33
Final inspection consists of inspecting finished garments from the consumers’ point
of view; size measurement; from fitting and live modeling if necessary.
Product Variation and Classification of the defects

Variations that exceed tolerance or do not meet specification are called defects. Defects
can be classified into three categories.
Critical:
 Is a deviation from delivery requirements which results the product not being received
and/or distributed by Customer’s stores
 Results hazardous or unsafe conditions when using the product
 In case of 1 occurrence of critical defect the entire lot has to be rejected
Major:
 Affects the durability or the usability and the outlook of the garment
 With big possibility will result in customer complaint or return
 Usually is observed by inspector and by customer during use
Minor:
 Does not affect the durability or the usability but affects the outlook of the garment
 Is unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
 Usually is observed by inspector, but may be overlooked by the Customer

CHAPTER -5
34
Ergonomics
Correct sitting posture
Following steps should be taken to maintain the correct posture while sewing
Back: Keep the back straight
Knees & Hip: keep the knees bent & knees should be slightly lower than hips
with the seat tilted forward if possible.
Head: it should be centered over the shoulders
AVOID
Twisting the neck and back
Do not cross legs or shift weight to one side
Entire sole should rest comfortably on the floor or foot rest of the machine
Correct standing posture

Spine - Maintain a straight spine rather than slouching to the side
Chin - Keep the chin up with the head centered over the shoulders
Feet - Keep the feet slightly less than shoulder width apart
Leg - Distribute weight equally on both legs.
Knees - Keep both knees straight; don't put more weight on one leg. Keep the knees slightly
bent.
Shoulder - Relax your shoulders, tuck in your stomach.
Avoid
Avoid slouching forward
Do not stand in one position for too long.
35
Correct Standing posture to reduce fatigue
36
Correct height of Machine Table
Stand with your elbows bent at right angles, then drop your hands very slightly so your arms
are in a comfortable position. This is the height your cutting table—and ironing board—
should be. Lowering the table height slightly from the 90 degree angle prevents you from
banging your elbows on the table. You may want to vary it a bit, depending on the type of
work you’re doing, but it should not be much lower.
37
ERGONOMICS IN SEWING DEPARTMENT
Sewing Station Design
An operator encounters several risk factors at sewing workstations, such as awkward arm,
neck, trunk, and leg postures. These postures are influenced by the size of the worker and
the design of the workstation. This section explains potential hazards encountered at the
workstation and a general description of a proper workstation design.
Chair
Table
Treadle/Pedal
Potential Hazards:
Workers often maintain awkward shoulder, elbow, and wrist postures while
sewing because of improper chair height or position.
Employees must sit or stand for long periods in the same position, resulting in
soreness of the back and neck, and/or buttocks, and reduced circulation to the
legs.
Solutions
Chairs should be placed at an appropriate distance from the workstation, so

workers can perform tasks without pulling their elbows away from the body
Motor placement should not interfere with proper chair distance.
Chair height is correct when the work
Surface is at elbow height. Ideally, in this posture, the entire sole of the foot
should rest on the floor, and the back of the knee should be slightly higher than
the seat of the chair the seat may be slightly lower when the worker uses a
treadle or pedal.
Anti-fatigue mats for workers who are standing for prolonged periods. Anti-
fatigue mats promote better circulation and reduce fatigue in the lower
extremities.
Provide training on importance of breaks to help reduce injuries.
Potential Hazards:
Workers maintain awkward shoulder, elbow, and wrist postures while sewing
because of improper table height.
Employees resting forearms or wrists on sharp edges may cut off blood circulation,
pinch nerves, and cause injury to the arms or hands.
38
Possible solutions
Provide both height- and tilt-adjustable tables, which can help employees access
their work without using awkward postures.
Tables should be adjusted so the work is at elbow height and wrists are kept straight.
If the table is too low, workers will have to hunch forward, putting strain on the
back, neck, and shoulders. If a table is too high, workers will have to raise their
shoulders to get their arms high enough to work. This posture tires the neck,
shoulder, and upper back muscles and may result in muscle pain.
Tables may be tilted slightly toward workers, to enable them to see the work more
easily and to reduce awkward wrist postures
When sewing heavy fabric, the table may be tilted away from the worker, which may
help pull the fabric through the machine and lessen manual force applied by the
worker.
Treadle /Paddle
Potential Hazard
Employees operating a treadle for prolonged periods must maintain awkward and
unbalanced posture
Operator required to apply a constant treadle force must maintain static lower
extremity postures.
Operator may also maintain poor posture if treadle is too close or too far away
Possible Solution
Design treadle to require less force, allowing the use of a sit/stand workstation.
When feasible, use hip switches or redesigned foot treadles to eliminate the need to
apply constant standing pressure.
Provide adjustable treadle so the worker can place it in a comfortable position and
get as close to the table as possible
39
SAFETY INSTRUCTION FOR AN OPERATOR
1. Be sure to keep your eyes on the needle and do not touch the moving parts like hand
wheel, Thread Take Up lever, needle or any other moving parts.
2. Remember to turn off your power switch
When a power failure occurs during use
Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts
Maintaining the machine
Leaving the machine unattended
3. Do not store anything on the foot controller

4. Raise the presser foot while you are winding the bobbin.
5. Never Drop any object in any opening of the machine
6. Use stairs very carefully while in industry
7. Always wear shoes while you are in the factory premises.
40
CHAPTER – 6
Introduction to Sewing tools

DAY – 3
Tailor's chalk: is a type of chalk which is

designed to make temporary markings on
cloth. Using tailor's chalk, an operator can
make markings where fabric needs to be cut
or garments need to be sewn or altered, and
the chalk can also be used to mark out
cutting, hemming, and darting lines on
garments as they are constructed. Once the
markings are no longer useful, they can be
easily brushed off or washed out, leaving no
residue behind
Measuring Tape :A tape measure or
measuring tape is a flexible form of ruler.
It consists of a ribbon of cloth, plastic,
fiber glass, or metal strip with linear-
measurement markings generally inches
on one side and centimeters on another
Scissors: Bent-Handled Shears-7 to 8 inch

long scissors suitable for cutting fabric
because the blades rest flat on the cutting
surface.
Trimmer : Trimmer or clipper is used for

trimming the threads
Seam Ripper: A seam ripper is a

specialty notion that features a curved
blade ending in a sharp point on one side
and a small ball on the opposite edge, to
help protect against damaging adjacent
fabric. Seam rippers are available in sizes
to fit different hands, ranging from 2¾
inches to 6 inches (7–12.7 cm). They also
come in a variety of colors and handle
styles.
Marking Pencils: A Marking pencil is
another marking tool apart from tailor’s chalk.
They are available in different colors light
colors are used for marking on dark fabrics
and vice versa.
Hand sewing needle: is used for basting
operations. Needles are comes in three
sizes: Small, Medium & Large. Small needles
are used on light and soft material, while big
needles are for rough, thick and heavy
materials. Needles are used for basting,
sewing buttons on and when mending torn
clothes
Pin Cushion : Pin Cushion is a cotton-stuffed

cloth which could cut and sewn in many
different shapes to keep the pins in place. It
will help you to work conveniently when
placed on your waist.
Thimble : Thimble- made of either plastic or

metal material which is used to protect the
finger from being pricked by the needle when
sewing. A fitted thimble will help you sew
comfortably especially when you are not
used in sewing with a thimble on your finger
.
Introduction to Industrial Sewing Machine
SEWING MACHINE AND ITS PARTS

Seam guides
The Throat Plate:

The throat plate is a removable part, which protects the bobbin and underside of the
sewing machine.
The throat plate has seam guides. Always verify that the machine seam guide is
accurate with the needle position you are using.
Many newer machines have built in visibility of the bobbin area so you remember to
fill the bobbin before starting a large project.
1 Presser feet
2 Feed dog
3 Presser feet attachment

screw
The Feed Dog:

The feed dog feeds the fabric under the presser foot while you guide the fabric.
The feed dog regulates the stitch length by how much fabric passes under the
presser foot as the machine stitches.
It is important for you to not push and pull the fabric under the presser foot. Allow the
feed dog to move the fabric, so that you do not bend and break sewing machine
needles.
Most feed dogs are metal but there was a period of time that they were made in
rubber. Be aware that the rubber feed dogs did wear out and have them replaced if
they have rounded edges or show signs of wear.
Care of the Feed Dog & Throat Plate:
The ability to remove the throat plate makes cleaning the feed dog and bobbin area
possible. Removing lint with a soft brush extends the life of the machine.
What the Presser Foot Does:
The presser foot exerts downward pressure on the fabric as it is fed under the
needle.
Lowering the presser foot engages the tension disks.
Each presser foot serves a secondary purpose in addition to aiding the feed dogs.
Some help attach zippers, some help attach buttons, and some help make
buttonholes. These are all things that could be done manually without the presser
foot but these add-ons make things easier, especially for beginners who are just
learning these more complicated sewing steps.
The following presser foot overview describes the secondary purpose of other available
feet:
Blind hem – Creates blind stitches for seams and hems.
Button Attaching – Holds a button in place while the needle jumps back and forth
between the two holes in the button to attach the button to the fabric.
Buttonhole – Stitches the outsides of a buttonhole in either one step or four step
action.
Over lock Overcast – Creates overcasting and overlocking seam edges to keep fabric
from fraying
Rolled Hem – Grabs and rolls the edge of the fabric to create a rolled hem.
Ruffler – Helps coordinate the fabric for making decorative ruffles.
Tape Binding – Assists in installing tape binding.
Walking Foot – Contains a set of feed dogs that work on the top of the fabric to aid
the bottom feed dogs in pushing the fabric along during sewing. This additional
pressure and control of the fabric is helpful when working on extremely thick fabrics
or quilting projects.
Zigzag – Some machines describe their general purpose foot as the Zigzag foot. This
Presser foot is used when doing straight and zigzag stitches.
Zipper – Allows the needle to get closer to the edge of the fabric while attaching a
zipper.
MANUAL PRESSER FEET LIFTER
If we push the lever down presser feet goes If we pull the lever up presser feet is
don and is ready to stitch the fabric with pre disengaged from the sewing mode and no
set pressure pressure is exerted on the fabric.
FOOT PEDAL
1. Motor control lever

2. Connecting rod
between foot pedal
and motor
3. Foot pedal for speed
control
4. Pedal angle
adjustment screw
5. Pedal adjustment
connecting rod
CHAPTER -7
Basic SNLS Machine Setting

STEPS TO REPLACE A BOBBIN
Open the shuttle case door. You may

have to remove the accessory tray first.
Pull back on the bobbin case latch to
release the catch. You can then remove
the bobbin case. Notice how the bobbin
case "finger" fits into a groove in the
shuttle.
This is what the Bobbin Case looks like

from the side. The screw on the side of
the case is used to adjust the lower
thread tension. Most of the time,
though, thread tension can be adjusted
by tightening or loosening your upper
thread tension.
Wind thread onto your bobbin. When

you're ready to put the bobbin back into
the case, hold it in your right hand so that
the loose end points towards your right
palm.
Pull the thread into the Thread Slot. It's a
little hard to see this in the picture. Refer
to the Bobbin Case picture above if you
have trouble.
Pull the thread from the thread slot

under the tension spring. The tension
spring is a flat piece of metal. Pull out
five inches or so of thread.
As long as the bobbin case is out, check

the tension by hanging it by the thread
and bouncing it a little. It should descend
very reluctantly when you bounce it,
Stopping rather quickly.
Now pull on the bobbin case latch and then slide the case onto the shuttle. Make sure you line up
the "finger" with the slot on the shuttle. When you release the latch, the case should attach
securely to the shuttle. To finish threading the machine, pull out a little of the upper thread (the one
threaded through the needle), hole it in your right hand, and then manually turn the hand
wheel towards you. The needle will descend into the hole and will grab the lower thread. When the
needle comes back up, pull on the upper thread (the one in your left hand) and it will pull up the
lower thread through the hole.
Bobbin Winders
Bobbin winding mechanisms are a bit different for every sewing machine.
Bobbin winders can be found on the top, front or end of the sewing machine.
Some sewing machines have a bobbin that is filled in place in the bobbin case. Most
of these machines have a lever to lock the machine into winding the bobbin without
un-threading the sewing machine.
Most industrial sewing machines have a bobbin winder that is separate from the
machine, usually located on the table of the machine.
Parts of a Bobbin Winder:
The thread starts on the thread spool holder.
Thread guides are a vital part of the bobbin winding process to maintain tension on
the thread and achieve an evenly wound bobbin.
The bobbin holder is movable in most machines. The bobbin must be placed all the
way into place on the bobbin holder. The bobbin holder is away from the brake
when the bobbin is being put on and taken off of the holder. It slides towards the
brake for the bobbin winding process.
The brake stops the bobbin or changes the sound of the machine so you know when
the bobbin is full. It is not advisable to over fill a bobbin.
Basic Threading Process for Bobbin Winding:
1. The spool of thread on the spool holder.
2. Thread guides to feed the thread to the bobbin with an even tension.
3. The bobbin on the bobbin holder and hand wound a few times around the bobbin or
fed through a hole on the bobbin.
4. Slide the bobbin holder with the bobbin toward the bobbin brake.
5. Use the foot pedal to activate the machine with slow even speed.
6. When the brake stops the bobbin from turning or you hear a change in the sound of
the machine motor, stop winding the bobbin.
7. Slide the bobbin holder away from the brake. Cut the thread and remove the bobbin.
Disengaging the Machine While Winding a Bobbin:
Sewing machines require an adjustment by turning the inner portion of the hand
wheel to disengage the machine needle area while you are winding a bobbin.
Goals When Using a Bobbin Winder:
Your goal when winding a bobbin is to have the thread feed evenly to the bobbin
with an even tension on the thread and the thread to be evenly wound on the
bobbin.
The Purpose of the Stitch Length Adjustment:
The stitch length adjustment adjusts the length of the stitches your sewing machine
makes. The adjustment takes place at the feed dog not the machine needle.
Shortening the stitch length shortens the amount of fabric that is fed under the
presser foot before the needle comes down.
Lengthening the stitch length lengthens the amount of fabric that is fed under the
presser foot before the needle comes down.
Stitch
length Back
tack lever
Back Tack lever: its purpose is to reverse the direction of sewing operation. Done at the end
of one stitching operation to lock the stitch and prevent it from raveling.
Threading of an SNLS machine
Thread take-up lever
Thread tension spring
Follow the thread trail given in red color in diagram below

Needle change
A needle of DB X 1 or DP X 5 should be selected.

Select a proper needle size according to the count of thread and the type of material used.
Procedure –
1. Turn the hand wheel until the needle bar reaches the highest point of its stroke.
2. Loosed screw 2, and hold needle 1 with its intended part a facing exactly to the right in
direction.
3. Insert the needle fully into the hole in the needle bar
4. Securely tighten screw.
5. Check that the groove of the needle is facing exactly to the left.
CHAPTER – 8
Safety precautions while handling the machine
DAY - 4
1. To avoid electrical shock hazard, neither open the cover of the electrical box for the
motor nor touch the components mounted inside the electrical box
2. To avoid the personal injury, never operate the machine with any of the belt cover,
finger guard or safety devices removed
3. To prevent possible injuries caused by being caught in the machine, keep your
fingers, head and clothes away from the hand wheel, V belt and the motor while the
machine is operational. In addition place nothing around them.
4. To avoid personal injury, never put your hand under the needle when you turn ”ON”
the power switch or operate the machine
5. To avoid personal injury, never put your finger into the thread take up cover while
the machine is operational.
6. The hook rotates at a high speed while the machine is in operation. To prevent
possible injury to hands, be sure to keep your hands away from the vicinity of the
hook during operation. In addition be sure to turn OFF the power to the machine
when replacing the bobbin.
7. To avoid possible personal injuries, be careful not to allow your fingers in the
machine when tilting/raising the machine head.
8. To avoid possible accidents because of the abrupt start of the machine turn OFF the
power to the machine when tilting the machine head or removing the belt cover and
the V belt
9. Never operate the machine with the ground wire for the power supply removed
10. Always turn OFF the power switch in prior to the connection/disconnection of the
power plug.
To avoid the malfunction and damage of the machine confirm the following
instructions before any operation.
11. Before you put the machine into operation for the first time after the set-up, clean it
thoroughly.
12. Remove all dust and oil it well.
13. Confirm that the power plug has been properly connected to the power supply.
14. Never use the machine in the state where the voltage type is different from the
designated one.
15. The direction of rotation of the sewing machine is counter clockwise as observed
from the hand wheel side. Be careful not to rotate it in the reverse direction.
Skipped stitches
The most likely cause for you machine to skip stitches is the machine needle. If your
machine was sewing fine and suddenly decides to skip stitches, change your sewing
machine needle.
If you find yourself changing the needle often, be sure you are allowing the feed dog
to feed the fabric through the machine and that you are not forcing the fabric which
can lead to bent needles. Even slightly forcing the fabric can bend the machine
needle.
Knotting or breaking thread
Check the way your machine is threaded. Completely un-thread your sewing
machine and re-thread it. Remember to always thread your machine with the
presser foot up. Knotting thread on the bottom side is usually caused by upper
threading errors.
Check the bobbin and be sure the bobbin is threaded correctly and that the bobbin
case is correctly threaded. Be sure the bobbin is in the bobbin case in the correct
direction.
Check needle is correctly positioned in the needle bar.
UNIT – II
CHAPTER -9
FABRIC EXERCISES
DAY - 5
___________________________________________________________________________
Machine Control & best Practices
Training will be focused on “Skills” rather than the operation

We have Chosen 5 Different operations which comprise the different Sets of
Skills.
For 1st Loop Exercise, there is no Time target to be followed.

For the practice session, use the assembly line approach & give cutting of 10
Pcs at least and ask to finish it consequently.
Preparing machine for the sewing on the fabric -

The machines need to be prepared for the working on the fabric. Following need to be
kept in mind
1. Presser feet control- should be maintained at the proper level.
2. Feed Dog – Feed Dog should be maintained at the correct levels so that they are at a
required height and do not jam the fabric.
3. Cleaning – Throat plate and feed dog areas need to be cleaned very regularly to
clean the debris which creates irregular feed movements.
4. SPI should be kept at a balanced and desired level.
5. Ensure there is thread in the bobbin or thread spool.
6. Please keep one extra bobbin ready for replacement.
7. Check the needle point and before starting make sure needle is out of the throat
plate.
8. Check for correct and adequate oil levels.
9. Machine should be only switched on after changing the thread and needle insertion.
10. Keep the throat plate closed at all times during the operation.
EXERCISE – 1
Loop Exercise
Material Required
Loop Exercise
Two Strips of (15 cm * 1 Mt.) Loop Exercise
Objective
Sew a straight line in single burst using the highest speed of the machine
To enable Fresh operator for the understanding of the machine & removing the fear
of speed
Layout
Pick Fabric F
Sewing Machine
A
From here
B
R
I
C
Method
STEP -1
Join the both Plies together from both the open ends and will result into the
circular strip.
Stage Movement Attention Point

Pick Up Fabric Strip Use Both Hands Pick from the marked
area
Position Under Foot Use Both Hands Align On the Machine

Bed
Stitch (Super impose Use Both Hands Use right hand to

seam) guide the fabric and
left hand to control
the fabric
Reposition the Fabric Use Both Hands Align On the Machine

Strip (Other end) again Bed
Under the Foot
Stitch (Super impose Use Both Hands Use right hand to

seam) guide the fabric and
the fabric
Dispose Use Left Hand Only
STEP-2
.
1. Wrap the Circular strip around the Machine bed and position under the foot.
2. Start the exercise

Wrap the fabric Strip Use Both Hands
Around machine bed
Position Under Foot Use Both Hands
Stitch (with full Speed) Use Both Hands Complete in 1 burst

only
Use right hand to
guide the fabric and
the fabric.
a) After Completion of 1 stitch, Again Start the next Stitch at the Distance of ¼ ‘’.
b) Continue this practice for the whole strip.
Standard Time - 17 Sec or .29 min for 1 complete stitch

DAY -6
EXERCISE – 2
Fabric Stitch (Sharp Turn & Stops)
Material Required
Fabric of (30 cm * 30 cm)
Objective
Sew the Given Fabric As per the Given Pattern
Layout
Sewing
Machine
FABRI
Pick Fabric -C
From here
Dispose
Methods

Pick Up Fabric Use Left Hand Pick from the marked
area

Bed
Stitch Use Both Hands Use right hand to

the fabric

Exercise Diagram
EXERCISE – 3 (Curve Stitches)
Material Required
Fabric of (30 cm * 30 cm)
Objective
Sew the Given Fabric As per the Given Pattern
Layout
Sewing
Machine
FABRI
Pick Fabric -C
From here
Dispose
Methods

Pick Up Fabric Use Left Hand Pick from the marked
area

Bed
Stitch Use Both Hands Use right hand to

the fabric

Exercise Diagram
EXERCISE NO. 4
DAY – 7
Top Stitching)
Material Required -
Fabric of Size – (12 cm X 12.5
cm)
Objective
Stitch two Pieces of fabric turn & top stitch
Layout
Sewing
Machine
FABRI
-C
Dispose
Method
1) Pick up & align – Pick up the strips of given fabric using left hand, align them
one over other and put under the Presser Foot
2) Stitch –
a. Back tack – use 3 back tacks at the start of the seam. (Leaving ¼ inch
from the raw edge)
b. Straight stitches –
Sew the straight till ¼ inch of space from bottom is remaining. (Try in 1 bust,
but quality should not be hampered if not possible then use more than 1
bust)
Keep the needle inside fabric, turn it using pivot and make a straight stitch to
the width of fabric at ¼ inch space.
Again use the pivot method, turn the fabric and stitch it to the end. c.
Back tack- use 3 back tacks at the end of the seam
3) Trim thread
a. Raise the needle by using the hand wheel with right hand, eject the fabric
from foot, and cut the thread using scissors.
4) Cut the Fabric using scissors -

a. Cut the bottom corners from scissors and turn the fabric inside out.
After turning, again follow the same method and sew 8 lines by maintaining the
¼ Inch distance between each line.
5) Dispose
a. After completion of the exercise, dispose the fabric with left hand
Exercise Diagram
Step -1 (Run stitch) Step -2 (Cut corner by scissors)
Cut from here

Step – 3 (Turn Inside out and Top stitch) ¼”
DAY -7
EXERCISE NO.
Material Required 5 (Edge

Stitching)
Size – (9.5 cm X 11.5
cm)
Objective
Stitch two Pieces of fabric, Iron and make an edge stitch
Layout
Sewing
Machine
FABRI
-C
Pick Fabric from here Dispose

Method
1) Pick up & align – Pick up the strips of given fabric using left hand, align them
one over other and put under the Presser Foot
2) Stitch –
Back tack – use 3 back tacks at the start of the seam. (Leaving 1 mm from the
raw edge)
Straight stitches – Sew the fabric till the end keeping the distance of 1 mm uniform
from raw edge. (Try in 1 bust, but quality should not be hampered if not possible
then use more than 1 bust).
3) Trim thread
Raise the needle by using the hand wheel with right hand, eject the fabric from
foot, and cut the thread using scissors.
Turn the top layer of the fabric at right hand side and make an edge stitch @ less
than 1 mm distance from the fold of the fabric neatly.(using the mentioned standard
procedure)
4) Dispose
After completion of the exercise, dispose the fabric with left hand
Standard Time
Exercise Diagram
Step 1 Step 2
Step 3 (1 mm)
Exercise No.
6 (Hemming)
Material Required
DAY -8
Fabric of Size – (16 cm X 14
cm)
Objective
Hem one piece of fabric at 1cm from the raw edge
Layout
Sewing
Machine
FABRI
-C
Dispose
Pick Fabric from here
Method
1) Pick up & align – Pick up the strip of given fabric using left
hand.
2) Fold - Fold fabric at 1 cm from the raw edge and then again fold at 1 cm distance.
3) Stitch –
Back tack – use 3 back tacks at the start of the seam.
Straight stitches – stitch at the edge at less than 1 mm (From the inside
folding).this type of stitch is called “hem”. (Stitch should not be seen down
and Hem width should be evenly maintained throughout the length of the
fabric and stitch)
4) Trim thread
5) Dispose
b. After completion of the exercise, dispose the fabric with left hand
Exercis
e
Diagra
m
CHAPTER -10
SEAMS
DAY - 9
French
Exercise No. 7
seam
o Make French seam on the given two square fabric

o Size – (11 cm X 13 cm) two square Pieces
1) Pick up & align – Pick up the two strips of given fabric using left hand. Place
them one over the other.
2) Stitch –
Back tack – use 3 back tacks at the start of the seam.
Straight stitches – Put a run stitch at ¼” distance stitch from the raw edge.
Turn both the pieces
Stitch a plain seam at a distance of 3/8” from the turning point. It is called a
French seam.
Repeat the above exercise starting with a distance of 3/8” and turn the right
side and put ½” distance stitch.
3) Trim thread
Raise the needle by using the hand wheel with right hand, eject the fabric from
foot, and cut the thread using scissors.
4) Dispose
After completion of the exercise, dispose the fabric with left hand
(This seam is used to conceal the raw edge)
l
Exercise No. –
8
Run and Fell Seam

o Make Run & fell seam on the given two fabric
o Size – (10 cm X 13 cm) two square Pieces
1) Pick up & align – Pick up the two strips of given fabric using left hand. Place them
one over the other and keep the top layer fabric 1 cm away from the bottom layer
fabric.
2) Stitch –
Back tack – use 3 back tacks at the start of the seam. (Seam at 1 cm
distance from the upper fabric, keeping the lower fabric in position)
Straight stitches – make a continuous run stitch at 1cm distance from the
upper fabric.
Fold – Take the under lower fabric on top & fold 1 cm .Place on the upper
layer
Straight Stitch – Again stitch the straight
(Stitch should be made at uniform distance and back tack must be made)
3) Trim thread
4) Dispose
a. After completion of the exercise, dispose the fabric with left hand
Using in sleeve attaching and side seam

The machines need to be prepared for the working on the fabric. Following need to be kept in
mind.
1. Presser feet control- should be maintained at the proper level.
2. Feed Dog – Feed Dog should be maintained at the correct levels so that they are at a
required height and do not jam the fabric.
3. Cleaning – Throat plate and feed dog areas need to be cleaned very regularly to
clean the debris which creates irregular feed movements.
4. SPI should be kept at a balanced and desired level.
5. Ensure there is thread in the bobbin or thread spool.
6. Please keep one extra bobbin ready for replacement.
7. Check the needle point and before starting make sure needle is out of the throat
plate.
8. Check for correct and adequate oil levels.
9. Machine should be only switched on after changing the thread and needle insertion.
10. Keep the throat plate closed at all times during the operation.
CHAPTER - 11
Garment Operation Exercise
Exercise –
9
DAY 10-12
Objective
Run stitch collar
Layout
Sewing
Machine
Pick Dispose
Piece
from
here
Method
Pick up both pieces of first collar and position under foot.

o Pick up with both hands simultaneously. Align whilst moving towards
foot.
Keep edges aligned.
Ensure that right sides of material are facing each other.
o Position. Sew up to first point of collar in one burst. Drop needle at

corner and turn.
Align centre nips of components.
Back tack at start, cut threads.
o Sew up centre of collar in one burst. Sew to second pint in one burst.
Drop needle and turn. Sew to end in one burst.
Seam width to be even, half cm.
Back tack at end, but do not cut threads.
Ensure that needle is in down position when stopping to align.
Pick up both pieces of second collar and position under

foot.
o As in first sewing element). Back tack at start and end but do not cut
threads at all.
Continue working in a chain ,Cut, stack and dispose

o Cut threads between collars. Stack & Dispose with both hands to RHS.
o Know location of disposal.
o Dispose without having to look where to place garment
Standard Time -.72 Min (42 sec)

Exercise - 10
Objective
Turn and Top stitch collar
Layout
Sewing
Machine
Pick Dispose
Piece
from
here
Method
Pick up collar, trim and turn.

o Push out points so that they are flat.
o Pick up with left hand. Trim both points. Turn and push points out with
scissors.
Topstitch first collar.
o Stitching to be even, 1/2cm from edge
o Back tack at start, cut threads.
o Back tack at end, but do not cut thread.
o Ensure that needle is in down position when stopping machine to align.
Topstitch second collar.
o Back tack at start and finish but do not cut threads
Continue working in a chain .Cut, stack and
dispose o Dispose without looking where to place
garment. o Know location of disposal.
o Cut threads between collars, Stack Dispose with both hands to RHS
Standard Time – 1.2 Min

Exercise 11
DAY – 13-
15
Objective
To Sew Diamond Sleeve Placket
Layout
Sewing Machine
Dispose
Method
Pick up the sleeve using both hands.
o Sleeve must have a proper cut & notch
o To know the length and seam width of placket.
Position the sleeve correctly at foot.
o Sleeve placket must be properly matched with the notch
o Start sew with back tack
Attach the sleeve placket.
o To match to sleeve.
Back tack using reverse lever.
o Properly fold with correct margin.
o To secure end.
Top stitch at placket till the corner
o Needle should be inside the fabric at the corner
o Precise stop.
Fold the diamond shape.
o Use template.
o Shape should be proper.
Sew the diamond shape.
o Use back tack at last, not more than 2-3 stitches
o Proper shape.
Standard time – 2.12 Min
Exercise 12
Objective
Attach Zip DAY – 16-17
Layout
Sewing Machine
Dispose
Pick
Piece
from
here
Elemental Break Down of operation
a) Attach Fly
b) Attach Zip
c) Attach Panel
Method
a) Attach Left Fly
Pick Up
o Pick the Panel form Left hand and put under the foot.
o Pick the Left fly and align with panel.
Stitch
o Stitch the fly straight till bottom, in 1 burst.
o Use Back tack at the end of the seam
o Remove the Piece from foot.
Line Up
o Turn the fly and put the piece under foot.
Sew
o Sew edge stitch on the fly
b) Attach Zipper
Pick Up
o Pick the Panel form Left hand and put under the foot.
o Pick the Right fly and align with panel.
o Pick up the Zipper Using Left hand and align over the box fly
Stitch
o Stitch zipper on the box fly by using the special foot
c) Attach Panel
Pick Up
o Pick the Left Panel form Left hand and put under the foot.
o Pick up the right Panel from left hand and put under the foot
Align
Align the right panel on left panel and fold the right panel from the edge.
Sew
Stitch the right panel with the left panel In 1 Burst at 1/8”.
Dispose
Dispose the piece by using right hand
Standard Time – 1.95

Exercise 13
Objective
Sew Bone Pocket and Top DAY – 18-20
Stitch
Layout
Sewing
Machine
Pick Piece
from here Dispose
Method
Pick up and align

o Pick Up the panel from left hand and put on the bed.
o Pick up the upper facing and lower Pocket bag and align them correctly on the Panel
Mark
o Mark the position for stitch as per the bone measurement.
Sew
o Stitch the facings in a rectangular fashion using the pivot method
Cut
o Cut the bone from scissors and mark the notch position at the both ends of rectangle in
“V” shape.
Turn
o Turn facings to the back side and make the double bone as per the specification
given. Press the bones with steam iron.
Top Stitch & bone tacking

o Top Stitch on the pocket mouth in the rectangular fashion surrounding the pocket
bone by using the pivot at the corners.
o Tack bones at both the vertical corners.
Finish Pocket Bag

o Pick up the single ply of pocket bag and align with the other attached ply of pocket
bag.
o Stitch the lower ply with pocket bag.
o Turn the pocket bag inside-out.
Dispose
o Dispose the finish piece by right hand
Standard Time –2.25 Min

CHAPTER - 12
Cut Part bundling & ticketing
DAY - 21
Numbering: Pasting of number sticker on all components of all the components of

garment. Number acts as the identification of garment component and the lot from
which garment is cut.
Bundling: Assembling the cut components in small batches of pre defined

number as per the requirements of production system.
Garment cut part Bundles
Bundle Tickets
Ticketing: It is the process of attaching tickets to all bundles that

provides basic information about the bundle and the components in the
bundle.
Important points
Numbering should be done on wrong side of the fabric only
Number stickers should be checked for glue
Numbering of a ply twice or skipping of a ply should not occur
The information on the bundle tickets must be accurate
Care must be taken to avoid mixing of components of different sizes in the bundle.
Attribute of a numbering sticker

Lay/lot number
Bundle number
Size
Ply number
Order number
Color code
Attributes of a bundle ticket

Order number
Style number
Bundle number
Quantity of components
Color
Size
Shade
CHAPTER -13.
Introduction to overlock machine

DAY -22 - 23
PARTS OF OVERLOCK MACHINE
1. Thread tree 2. Needles 3. Thread plate

4. Presser foot 5. Spool pin 6. Spool support
pressure
adjustment
7. screw
Thread take-up cover 8. Bed extensions 9. Presser foot
10. Material plate cover 11. Left needle thread 12. Right needle thread
tension dial tension dial
13. Upper looper thread 14. Lower looper 15. Front cover
tension dial thread tension dial
16. Presser foot lifting 17. Main power and 18. Stitch length adjustment
lever light switch dial
19. Hand wheel 20. Differential feed 21. Stitch width dial
ratio
adjustment dial
Inside of the front cover
22. Thread guide 23. Lower looper 24. Thread take up for
loopers
threading lever
25. Upper looper 26. Upper knife 27. Lower looper
28. Stitch finger 29. Knife lever 30. Front cover compartment
You can hold the included accessories and the removed Stitch finger in this front
cover
compartment.
<A>: Needle set : Stitch finger <C>: Tweezers
<D>: Hexagonal driver
BASIC MACHINE SETTING

Opening/ Closing front cover
It is necessary to open the front cover when threading this machine. Slide it to the right
1 and open 2, or close it and slide it to the left.
CAUTION
For your safety, make sure that the front cover is closed when operating the machine.
Always turn off the machine before opening the front cover.
Turning direction of hand wheel

The hand wheel <A> turns in a counterclockwise direction (direction of arrow). This is the
same direction as an ordinary home sewing machine. The needles move to their highest
positions by turning the hand wheel so that the mark on the hand wheel is aligned to
line on the machine
the
Attaching/ removing presser foot
1. Turn off the main power and light switch or disconnect the electric supply plug.
2. Raise the presser foot lever. Labeled 1 in diagram
3. Turn the hand wheel Labeled 2 in diagram so that the mark on the hand wheel is
aligned to the line on the machine
4. Push the button on the presser foot holder and the standard presser foot will be
released. 3 4
5. Raise the presser foot farther by pushing the presser foot lever upward. Then remove
the presser foot and store it in a safe location.
6. Again, raise the presser foot farther by pushing the presser foot lever upward. Then
place the presser Foot just under the presser foot holder <A> so that the groove in the
bottom of the presser foot holder
 is aligned and catches the bar on the top of the foot <C>. Then lower the presser
foot lever to
attatch the foot, pushing the button on the presser foot.
Stitch length
To change the stitch length, turn the stitch length adjustment dial on the right side of
the body.
1 Shorten the stitch length to a minimum of 2 mm (5/64 inch).
2 Lengthen the stitch to a maximum of 4 mm (5/32 inch).
<A> Selection mark
Stitch width setting

The normal stitch width setting for regular overlock stitch is 5mm (13/64 inch). To
change the stitch width, turn the stitch width adjustment dial.
1 Increase the width to a maximum of 7 mm (9/32 inch).
2 Reduce the stitch width to a minimum of 5 mm (3/16 inch).
<A> Selection mark
Removing/ installing the needle

<A> Removing/ installing the left needle
 Removing/ installing the right needle
To remove:
1. Turn the main power and light switch to the OFF position.
2. Turn the hand wheel so that the mark on the hand wheel is aligned to the line on the
machine.
3. Loosen the corresponding needle set screw with turning the included hexagonal
driver toward 2 in the figure, and remove the needle.
To install:
1. Turn the main power and light switch to the OFF position.
2. Turn the hand wheel so that the line on the hand wheel is aligned to the line on the
machine.
3. Hold the needle with its flat side away from you and insert it up as far as it will go.
4. Tighten the needle set screw securely with turning the included hexagonal driver
toward 1 in the figure.
CAUTION
Always be sure to turn off the power before removing/ inserting the needle.
Do not drop the needle and needle set screw in the machine, otherwise it may be
damaged.
Threading
Before threading
1. Turn off the main power and light switch for safety.
2. Raise the presser foot using presser foot lever.
3. Turn the hand wheel to lift the needle up to proper height.
Threading has to be done in the following order.

1. Lower looper
2. Upper looper
3. Right needle
4. Left needle
THREADING THE LOWER LOOPER

1. Open the front cover by sliding to the right and guiding the top toward you.
2. . Pull the thread off the spool and directly up through the thread holder 1 and the
thread plate (2) on the thread tree from back to front.
3. Pass the thread though the hole 3 on the top of machine.
4. Pass the thread through the tension disc (4) which is in the channel next to the blue
tension adjustment dial.
5. Guide the thread down the channel and pass the thread through the threading
points (5)(6)(7)(8) next to the blue color marks following the numerical order in the
accompanying illustration.
6. Slide the lower looper threading lever <A> to the right.
7. The lower looper moves to the position illustrated as below.
8. Pass the thread as illustrated.

9. Pass the thread through the eye of the lower looper.
10. Slowly turn the hand wheel, and make sure the returns to the original position.
CAUTION
Slide the threading lever only in the directions shown by the arrow. Forcefully moving
the threading lever in any other direction may damage it. Before sliding the lower looper
threading lever, make sure the needle is at its highest position
Thread the needles after the lower looper and upper looper have been threaded.
If the lower looper thread breaks during sewing, cut and remove thread from both of
the needles.
Threading the upper looper
1. Open the front cover by sliding to the right and guiding the top toward you.
2. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up through the thread holder (1)and the
thread plate (2) on the thread tree from back to front.
3. Pass the thread thourgh the hole (3) on the top of machine.
4. Pass the thread through the tension disc (4) which is in the channel next to the green
tension adjustment dial.
5. Guide the thread down the channel and pass the thread through the threading
points (5) (6) (7) (8) next to the green color marks following the numerical order in
the accompanying illustration.
6. Pass the thread through the eye of the upper looper (9)
Threading the right needle
1. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up through the thread holder 1 and the
thread plate 2 on the thread tree from back to front.
2. Pass the thread thourgh the hole 3 on the top of machine.
3. Pass the thread through the tension disc 4 which is in the channel next to tension
adjustment dial.
4. Guide the thread down the channel and across through the threading points (5) (6)
(7) in the numerical order in the accompanying illustration.
5. Bring the thread down through the needle bar thread guide and through the right
needle (8) from front to back.
Threading the left needle
1. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up through the thread holder 1 and the
thread plate 2 on the thread tree from back to front.
2. Pass the thread thourgh the hole 3 on the top of machine.
3. Pass the thread through the tension disc 4 which is in the channel next to the tension
adjustment dial.
4. Guide the thread down the channel and across through the threading points 5 6 7 in
the numerical order in the accompanying illustration.
5. Bring the thread down through the needle bar thread guide and through the left
needle 8 from front to back.
Test sewing
1. Test-sew before you start sewing. Set all the thread tension properly.
2. Thread the machine and pull all threads out about 15 cm (6 inches) behind the
presser foot.
3. Place a piece of scrap material under the presser foot for test sewing.
4. Holding all threads with your left hand, turn the hand wheel slowly a few times
toward you, and check to see that the threads entwine themselves before using
the foot controller to sew.
NOTE: Always lift the presser foot before placing the fabric under it. You cannot
start sewing by just running the fabric under the foot without lifting the presser foot.
Chaining-off
After test-sewing, continue to depress the foot controller slightly and chain off 10cm
(4 inches).
The threads will entwine themselves into a chain automatically.
NOTE:
If the thread tension is not correctly balanced, the chaining-off result will be uneven. If this
happens, pull the threads slightly. Check the threading order and adjust the thread tension
to create an even chain.
To remove work
When the seam is finished, keeps the machine running at a low speed to obtain chaining-off.
Then cut the stitches 5 cm (2 inches) from the work. If feeding for chaining-off is not
enough, pull the thread gently.
To secure chain
There are two methods available to secure the chain.

Secure the chain of the beginning and the end of a stitch with your machine.
At the beginning of a stitch
1. Sew a few stitches, after chaining-off for 5cm (2 inches).
2. Stop the machine and raise the presser foot.
3. Put the chain under the presser foot, and serge over it pulling toward you.
4. After sewing a few stitches, cut off the extra chain with the knife as illustrated.
At the end of a stitch

5. At the end of the seam, sew one stitch out of the fabric before stopping the
machine.
6. Raise the presser foot and the needles, then reverse the fabric.
7. Lower the needles and the presser foot at the same position.
8. Serge over the seam, taking care not to cut the serged seam with a knife.
9. After sewing a few stitches, serge off the fabric as illustrated.
10. Cut the threads with scissors.
If threads break during sewing
Remove the material and re-thread in the correct order, Lower looper, Upper looper,
right needle and then the left needle. Replace the material under the presser foot and sew
3-5 cm (1-1/8 to 2 inches) over the previous stitches.
TROUBLESHOOTING
This sewing machine is designed for trouble-free operation. However, the following
chart indicates trouble which may occur if basic adjustments are not made properly.
Trouble Cause Remedy
Turn the pressure

1. Does not feed Presser foot pressure too loose adjustment screw clockwise
to
1. Needles bent, or needle tip Increase the presser foot

blunt pressure.
2. Needles incorrectly installed Replace with new needle.

2. Needles break
Install needles correctly
3. Material pulled forcibly Do not press or pull material
too hard when sewing..
1. Improper threading Thread correctly
Check spool pin, thread

2. Thread tangled holders, etc. and remove
tangled thread.
3. Threads break
Adjust the thread
3. Thread tension too tight
tension.
4. Needles incorrectly installed Install needles correctly
5. Wrong needle used Use correct needle
1. Needle bent, or needle tip

Replace with new needle
blunt
2. Needle incorrectly installed Install needle correctly
3. Improper threading Thread correctly

4. Skipped
Turn the pressure
stitches
adjustment screw clockwise
4. Presser foot pressure too
to
loose
increase the presser foot
pressure
5. Stitches are not Thread tensions are not
Adjust the thread tension
uniform adjusted properly
Decreases thread tension

1. Thread tension too tight when sewing lightweight or
6. Fabric is fine material.
puckered
2. Improper threading or thread
Thread correctly.
tangled
CHAPTER -14
SOFT SKILLS
DAY 25-26
__________________________________________________________
UNIT - III
PATTERN DEVELOPMENT & GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

CHAPTER – 15
MEN’S SHIRT
DAY – 27
_________________________________________________________
FULL SLEEVES SHIRT HALF SLEEVES SHIRT
INTRODUCTION
A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body. Shirt is one of the most basic garments in
Men’s Clothing. Shirts are categorized as Classic, Formal, and Casual Shirts. A shirt is more
specifically a garment with a collar, sleeves with cuffs, and a full vertical opening with buttons
or snaps.
TERMINOLOGY OF FRONT
TERMINOLOGY OF BACK
Measurement Chart
36 38 40 42 44 46
Neck 14.5-15 15-15.5 15.5-16 16-16.5 16.5-17 17-17.5
Length 26 27 28 28.5 29 29.5
Chest 40.25 42.25 44.25 46.25 48.25 50
Stomach 37 39 41 43 45 48
Hip 39 41 42 45 47 49
Sleeve 33 34 34.4 35.5 36 36
2.4 - Components of Basic Shirt
S.No Name of the Number of Fusing/Tem Grain Line

Components pieces to cut plate to cut
(Fabric)
1 Front Panel 2
. Left &
right
2 Patch Pocket 1
.
3 Back Panel 1
.
4 Back Yoke 2
.
5 Full Sleeves 2
6 Sleeve Placket Small 2

7 Sleeve Placket Big 2
.
8 Cuffs 4 2
8 Collar 2 1
.
9 Collar band 2 1
.
Total 20 4
The shirt has number of components those are joined together by means of stitches. Stitches
are made by using sewing machines. Number of seam types is used to construct a shirt.
Depending on the machine availability seam types in shirt may vary.
EX. NO EXERCISES GUIDE MACHINE AVERAGE SEAM

REQUIRED TIME
1 Edge Stitch Practice SNLS 20 Sec Special seams Class
Single Stitch .40 Sec - VII
Double Stitch
FRONT PLACKETS
2 Self-Plackets SNLS 15 Sec Edge Neatening
3 Separate Plackets SNLS 20 Sec Edge Neatening
4 French Plackets SNLS 30 Sec Edge Neatening
5 Concealed Plackets SNLS 40 Sec Edge Neatening
PATCH POCKETS
6 Square Shape SNLS 360 sec Special seams
Class – VIII
7 Round Shape Or “U” SNLS 360 sec Special seams
shape Class – VIII
8 “V” Shape Or Pointed SNLS/DNLS 420 sec Special seams

Shape Class – VIII
9 Diamond Shape SNLS/DNLS 420 sec Special seams
Class – VIII
SEAMS
10 Flat & Fell Seam SNLS 20 Sec Lapped Seam
SLEEVE PLACKETS
11 Single Plackets SNLS 300 sec Bound Seam

12 Double Plackets SNLS 300 sec Bound Seam
13 SNLS 300 sec Bound Seam
Continuous Plackets
CUFFS
14 Square Shape SNLS 300 sec French Seam
15 Diamond Shape SNLS 300 sec French Seam
16 Round Shape SNLS 300 sec French Seam
COLLAR
17 Button Stand Collar SNLS 360 sec
18 Side Loading SNLS / Feed 40 Sec Lapped Seam
of the Arm
Process Flow Chart of Sewing Operations:
The Process flow chart of a formal shirt sewing shirt parts are prepared first and later those
parts are assembled one by one.
Cuff Collar Front Sleeve
Cuff Hem Collar Run Pocket Sleeve Placket

Stitch Marking
Cuff Trimming Collar Trimming Pocket Sleeve

Hem Diamond
Cuff Turning & Collar Blocking Pocket Sleeve B. Hole

Blocking Press
Cuff Top Stitch Collar Top Pocket Sleeve Pleats

Stitch Attach
Cuff B. Hole Collar Band Left Front

Hem Placket
Collar Band Right Front

Cuff
Press Attach
Collar Band Top Front B. Hole

Stitch
Collar Notch Yoke Label

Making Attach
Ready Parts for Assembly

Assembly Section
This section consists of ten operations to make one full garment. The machines are kept in single
straight line according to the operation sequence. The final garment from last operation is fully
checked and corrected immediately for any defects. WIP movement inside the assembly is made
by the help of work aids attached with each machine. The operator, after completing his (her)
operation forwards the semi finished garments to the next machine with the help of work aids
attached to each machine. This process continues to the end of assembly line for each
operation. At the same time the required parts from preparatory are carried up to the assembly
section manually. The flow chartfor the assembly operation is shown below.
Yoke Attach
Shoulder Attach
Sleeve Tacking
Sleeve Attach
Sleeve Top Stitch
Side Seam
Collar Attach
Collar Close
Cuff Attach
Bottom Hem
The below mention average time is calculated on the basis of an Individual Operator doing all the
operations of the garment. (This shirt is constructed with Double stitch lines)
(May consume less time with single stitch lines construction)
This time study is for the domestic purpose not for mass production assembly line a formal shirt
sewing shirt parts are prepared first and later those parts are assembled one by one.
Process Flow Chart of Sewing Operations:
The Process flow chart of a formal shirt sewing shirt parts are prepared first and later those parts
are assembled one by one.
OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF BAIC SHIRT
Process Images Average
Time in
seconds
Fuse Button hole 30

Placket
& fold. (Left)
Top Stitch Button 120

holePlacket
Fold & Press Button 30
Edge stitch button 60

placket right
Pocket Mouth 75
Stitching 1”
& Pressing
Mark pocket position 180

and place the pocket
on left front
Top stitch the ppkt

(double stitch)
Back panel Yoke Attachment
Attach Yoke pieces 50

sandwiching back
Top Stitch 120
Front & Back Joining
Shoulder Joining- 40
Join Inner yoke SH

& Join with LHS
front Bodice SH.
Repeat the same

with RHS
Roll the bodice, join 60
the shoulder with
another yoke
Top Stitch 55
Sleeve Placket Attachment
Close LHS Small 30

plkt (finished width
½”) repeat the same
for RHS
Fold bigger plkt to 1” 240

finished width finish
at top with V shape
CUFF PREPARATION:
Fuse LHS & RHS 20

Currs
Cuff mouth stitching 80
Align both the cuff 360

pieces -Run stitch
Trim & Turn 120
Top Stitch 50
Collar Preparation
Collar & Band 100

Fusing
Run stitch with 230
thread insertion at
collar points
Trim & turn and Top 260

stitch
Collar band mouth 140

stitching
Band attachment 180

with Collar
Trim, turn & top

stitch
Assembling of Shirt Components
Sleeve Attachment to Body
Center notch the 20

sleeves, match with
bodice one
Attach LHS & RHS 460
sleeves with bodice
with Lap seam
Top Stitch 120
Join LHS & RHS 450

Side Seams using
lap seam
Top Stitch 450
Cuff attachment
Attach Cuff with 220

Sleeve bottom,
Excess fabric found
at sl. Bottom is
converted into pleats
(ensure they are
folded towards to
bigger placket)
Top Stitch 240

Collar Attachment
Attach collar with 180

neckline
Top stitch 180
Bottom Hem 220
Button hole Stitching 480
Button Stitching 480
Finishing 420
CHAPTER – 16
SARI BLOUSE
DAY – 30
_______________________________________________________________________________
INTRODUCTION
Sari blouse is worn on the upper part of the body, it may have long or short sleeves or sleeveless
and the blouse length can vary from very short to waist length with varieties of necklines and
back patterns.
Indian sari blouses have undergone tremendous changes over the years in terms of cuts, styles,
necklines, back designs and sleeves. Indian sari blouse styles depend on individual taste; It
should fit tightly at the lower edge.
The blouse colour may either match the colour of the sari or be in contrast colour. All sari blouses
should be created with a full opening either in the front or in the back. This can be zipped or
hooked with buttons.
As more and more women are becoming fashion conscious, more and more variations in Indian
Sari blouse are coming up. It is age of change and the sari blouse is getting a makeover at the
hands of designs, tailors and customers.
Fabrics used in Indian Blouses
Cotton, Rubia, Pure Silk, Pure Crepe Blouse, Georgette Blouse, Chiffon Blouse, Net Blouse,
Chikan Blouse.
However, all Indian blouses are made of the same fabric as that of the sari in case of
transparent fabric like net, chiffon a lining is required. The lining material can be MulMul or
Organza.
Styles of Sleeves in Sari Blouse for Women

 Full Sleeves
 Three forth Sleeves
 Half Sleeves
 Sleeves less
 Puffed Sleeves
 Petal Sleeves
 Leg-o-mutton Sleeves
Apart from the above any sleeve variation may be adopted as per the fashion
Dart: Dart Plays very important role in fitting the blouse. There are various locations of dart. But
in the blouse we are using waistline dart, Centre Front dart, Side Seam dart, Armhole dart.
Land Marks in Blouse
Land Marks : Land marks are the designated points on the human body for measuring the exact
location. Otherwise there will be a variation in taking measurement by every one.
Terminology of Blouse
Measuring Blouse from Garment
Measurement Chart
SIZE 32 34 36 38
A-C SHOULDER 12” 13” 13.5” 14”
C-D BUST 32” 34” 36” 38”
G-H WAIST ROUND 26” 28” 30” 32”
E-F BLOUSE LENGTH 14” 14” 14” 14”
J-I SLEEVE LENGTH 5” 5” 5” 5”
P-Q SLEEVE BOTTOM 5” 5 1/2” 6” 6 1/2”
N-O FRONT NECK DEPTH 5” 51/2” 51/2” 51/2”
L-M NECK WIDTH DOS DOS DOS DOS
L-K SCYE DEPTH DOS DOS DOS DOS

List of Components
S.No Name of the Components Number of pieces Fusing/Tem Grain Line

(Fabric) plate
1. Front (Left & Right) 2 --
2. Back 1 --
3 Sleeves 2 --
4 Belt 4
5 Neck Line Facing (Back) Diagonally cut pieces --

joined measuring to
neck round 1
6 Back Belt piece 1 --
Total 11
Blouse Designs
NOTE: FULL FORM – DOS (DEPENDS ON SIZE)
Exercise Guide
Exercise Exercises to be prepared Machine Average Seam

No. Required Time
1. NECK LINE FINISHING
1.1 Neck Line Facing in Square Shape SNLS 120 sec Edge Neatening
1.2 Neck Line Facing in SNLS 120 sec Edge Neatening
Round Shape
1.3 Neck Line Piping with bias strip SNLS 120 sec Bound Seam
1.4 Neck Line Binding with bias strip SNLS 120 sec Bound Seam
2 SEAMS
2.1 Plain Seam SNLS 10 Sec Super Imposed

Seam
3 DART STITCHING PRACTICE SNLS Bound Seam
3.1 2 dart pattern sample SNLS 20 Sec Bound Seam
3.2 4 dart pattern sample SNLS 40 Sec Bound Seam
Drafting Procedure of a Blouse

Measurements Inches
Required
Chest 36
Full length of the blouse 14
Shoulder 15
Sleeve length 6
Sleeve round 16
Front
A to B= front length + ½”.
A to C = ½ shoulder + ¼”.
On the line A-B mark D such that A-D =¼ chest -1¼” or 1½”.
A-D is called scye depth. It varies with chest measurement. It can be calculated using the chest
measurement. It can also be measured directly on the body. It is measured from the nape of the
neck downwards to a line that joins armpits. refer Figure 1
Scye depth for various breast measurements:
28” to 30” =¼ chest-¾’ to 1”
31” to 33” =¼ chest-1” to 1¼”
34” to 36” = ¼ chest-1½” to 2”
37 “ to 39” = ¼ chest- 2¼” to 2¾”
40 to 42 = ¼ chest-3” to 3½”
Draw perpendicular lines from the points D and B to the line A-B.
On the line A-C mark G such that A-G =the neck width = 1/8th chest or to taste.
Mark H on A-B such that A-H =neck depth =1/8th chest or to taste.
Shape front neck curve H-G.

Mark D-E=¼ chest +1 +1/2".
Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
Produce D-E to K such that E-K=. ½”.
Mark L on B-F such that L-F =½’
Join K-L.
On the line D-E mark point I such that D-I = ½” less than A-C.
Join I-C .On the line I-C mark point R such that C-R =½” or ¾”. Join G-R.
On the line I-C mark a point J such that I-J =1”.
Shape the scye round R-J-E-K.
On the line D-E mark a point S such that D-S =1/12th chest +¾”.
On the line A-B mark point M such that B-M =1”.Join M-L by a curved line as shown in the figure.
Drop a perpendicular from the point S. This line meets the curved line M-L at P. On this line Mark
point T which is the bust point It can be marked in two ways.
Method 1
Mark T such that distance S-T=1/8th chest-1½”.
Method 2
Actual bust length is measured from the shoulder line to the highest point of the bust. Mark T along
the line U-T passing through S such that U-T is equal to is the bust length.
Darts
All the darts should point towards the bust point T and end 1/2" away from T.
Mark N on the line A-B such that D-N =S-T. Take ½” or ¾” dart
At point P a dart of 1¼” to 2” dart of required length is taken
On the line K-L mark a point O such that O-L = 1” take a dart of ¾” wide and of required length.
At the point J take a dart of ½” wide of required length.
Belt
U-V= Full length of the blouse –Front length +½”.
V-W =B to F -1½”( size of the dart taken).
W –X =U-V -1”.
Shape the curve U-X identical to the curve M-L.
Y-W= ½”. Join X-Y.
Back
A-B =Full length of the blouse +1”

A-D is scye depth = same as scye depth of front the blouse.
Draw perpendiculars from A,D and B.
A-C= ½ shoulder + ¼”.
Mark D-E=¼ chest +1½”.
Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
I- F=½” .Join E-I.
On the line A-C mark G such that A-G =the neck width = 1/8th chest or to taste.
Mark K on A-B such that A-K = Back neck depth =1/12th chest or to taste.
Shape back neck curve K-G.
On the line D-E mark H such that D-H = A-C. Join H-C.
On the line H-C mark a point R such that C-R =1”.
Shape the Back scye round R-E.
B-L=1/12th chest +½”. A dart L-M of ½” width and of required length is taken here.
Sleeves
A-B= sleeve length + ½”.
K-A =1"for folding.
From the points B , A and K draw perpendiculars.
B -C is as A-D = scye depth of the body taken while drawing body draft + ½" to 1½ “.
For smaller sizes B-C is equal to the scye depth.
B-C =K-L.
Join C-L.
Mark D on the line C-L such that D-C =1/8th chest -½”. It should be between 3 to 3½”
B-J = 1”.
Join D-B .F is the middle point of D=B . F-H =¾”
G is the middle point of D-F. I-G= ½”
Shape the front scye curve of the sleeves D-I-F- J-B and Back scye curve of the sleeves D-H-J-B.
A-E = ½ sleeve round + 1" for seams. Join L-E.
Lay out of blouse
operations of the garment.
This time study is for the domestic purpose not for mass production assembly line. 1.12
Exercise -1.11 - OPERATION BREAKDOWN/ SEWING ROCESS OF A SARI BLOUSE

Steps Process Sample Average
Time
1. Front Panel (Left and 120 Sec

Right):
Stitch all the 4 darts on

wrong side of left and
right front panels as
per the construction
lines.
2 Press/fold CF & Side 40 Sec

darts towards to Waist,
Arm hole and Waist
darts towards to Side
seam
3 Waist Belt 30 Sec

Attachment:
Attach waist band

pieces sandwiching
bodice, following the
shape of the belt for
both LHS & RHS
fronts.
4 Roll LHS bodice 40 Sec
towards to belt and
stitch the other side of
the belt on rolled state.
Do this for RHS front
5 Pull out the bodice 30 Sec

from the roll of both
the fronts
Crease belt edges as

per the shape
6 Attach RHS- CF 10 Sec

Placket piece on the
Right front (facing
right side up of bodice
& wrong side up of
plkt)).
7 Turn the plkt and give 20 Sec

edge stitch.
Measure ¾” width on
placket from CF, fold
remaining fabric and
give ¼ inch stitch.
8 Attach LHS- CF 10 Sec
Placket (loop Placket)
piece on the Left front
(facing wrong side up
of bodice & wrong
side.
9 Turn plkt and give 20 Sec

edge stitch.
10 Back Panel: 30 Sec
Stitch darts on wrong

side of back piece, as
per the construction
lines
11 Attach back belt piece 35 Sec

with 1cm seam
allowance.
Turn it and give edge

stitch.
12 Measure 1” as finished 20 Sec
belt width fold
remaining fabric and
give ¼ inch stitch.
Fold the belt and tack

at sides.
Leave for hand hem.
Sleeves Preparation:
13 Fold 1 cm and stitch 50 Sec

sleeve hem.
Again fold I” and tack

at sides.
Leave for hand hem.
14 Join Shoulder with 20 Sec

1cm seam allowance
and over lock.
15 Attach Sleeves by 180 sec
matching centre notch
points of sleeves to
the body.
Over Lock armhole

seams.
16 Neck Line Finishing: 120 sec
Binding:
Measure the neck

round and cut Bias
strip at 45 degree
angle.
Join bias strips
17 Stitch bias strip with 150 sec

neck line.
Fold the strip leaving

finished measurement
to ¼”, give a stitch on
top
18 Side Seam Joining: 60 sec
Stitch Side seam (LHS

& RHS) leaving 1”
seam allowance
19 Give one more parallel 20 Sec
stitch with 1/4th inch
distance for future
fitting adjustments.
20 Sleeve Bottom hem 120 sec
21 Back belt hem. 120 sec
22 CF right placket hem 30 Sec

23 Neck round hem 180 sec
24 Kaja Stitching 300 sec
25 Hook Stitching 300 sec
26 Finishing 120 sec

26
Finished Sari Blouse
Calculation - 2175 sec / 60 sec = 36 Min 15 sec
Total Average Time Required– 36 Min 15 Sec (Incuding Handling, Ironing, Finishing
Finishing:
Trim all the hanging threads with trimmer.
Iron the garment Submit
CHAPTER -17
KAMEEZ
DAY -34
___________________________________________________________________________
.INTRODUCTION
The Punjabi Dress also known as Salwar Kameez, especially in north India. Usually made in Cotton
& Silk. It is a complete alternate to sari and substitute to business Casual. It is also a very graceful
outfit which can be used at formal events, workplace, Parties. The suit consist of Salwar. It is a
comfortable outfit which can be used in different weather conditions.
The length of the kameez may vary from Short length to Knee. It is open at sides from the waist to
facilitate movement.
The Salwar has transformed with the time and the look has changed from traditional to more
contemporary. A number of variations have been introduced and these include variations in the
fabric used, the kind of work done and the cut as well.
Measuring Kameez
Land Marks : Land marks are the designated points on the human body for measuring the exact
location. Otherwise there will be a variation in taking measurement by every one.
Land Marks Measuring the Kameez
1.Shoulder 1. Shoulder length
9. Bust / Chest 2. Shoulder tip
10. Waist 3. Arm hole
11. Hips 4. Sleeve Length
5, 6, 7 Sleeve length 5. Sleeve Bottom Round
6. Elbow Length
7. 3/4th Length
8. Bust depth
9. Bust Round
10. Waist Round
11. Hip Round
12. Full Length
Measurenebt Chart
4.4 – List of Components of a Kameez:

S.No Name of the Components Number of Fusing/Tem Grain Line
pieces (Fabric) plate
1. Front Panel 1 --
2. Back Panel 1 --
3 Half Sleeves 2 --
4 Neck Line Facing (Front) 1 1
5 Neck Line Facing (Back) 1 1
Total 6 2
4.5 - Exercises Guide
Exerci Exercises to be prepared Machine Average Seam

se No. Required Time
1. NECK LINE FINISHING
1.1 Neck Line Facing in Square Shape SNLS 120 sec Edge Neatening
1.2 Neck Line Facing in Round Shape SNLS 120 sec Edge Neatening
1.3 Neck Line Piping with bias strip SNLS 120 sec Bound Seam
1.4 Neck Line Binding with bias strip SNLS 120 sec Bound Seam
2 SEAMS
2.1 Plain Seam SNLS 10 Sec Super Imposed

Seam
Drafting of a Kameez
Measurements Inches
Chest 36
shoulder 15
waist length 15 ½
Full length 36
Hip 38
Sleeve length 6
Sleeve round 5½
Drafting Procedure
Drafting Procedure of Front & Back Bodice:
A-C = full length +1”

A-D =¼ chest -1”
A-E =waist length
Mark point R such that E-R = 7” (for seat line)
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, D, E, R
and C
A-B =½ shoulders + ¼”
A-K = Neck width =1/12th chest or to taste
A-L =Back neck depth =1¾” or to taste
A-M = front neck depth 1/8th chest or to taste
D-F =¼ chest +1” (if loose fitting is needed 1 ½”
“to 2” can be added)
Mark point S, on D-F such that D-S =A-B. Join B-
S. On this line mark N such that S-N = 1½”
N-O = ¾”
Mark T, on B-S such that B-T = 1”. Join K-T.
Shape back neck K-L, front neck K-M as shown.
Shape front arm scye T-N-F and Back arm scye T-
O-F, E-G =D-F and G-I =½”. Join F-I
From R draw a perpendicular line and mark point
V on that line such that R-V =¼ seat +1½”, C-H
=¼ hip +2” shape I-S-H
C-J =½” shape kameez bottom J-H
Join side F-I-V-H.
Darts
Mark U on G-E such that U-E =1/12th chest
+1/2".P-U =U-Q =1/6th chest
A-B = Sleeve length

Drafting Procedure of Sleeves B-J =1½” or 1" for folding
Draw perpendiculars from A, B and J.
A-C = ¼ chest -1” . A-C =B-D. Join C-D
Mark L on the line A-C such that A-L =1” .
Mark E on the line D-C such that E-C = ½ of A-C
B-I = ½ sleeve round + 1”, J-K=1/2" more than B-
I.
Join I-E and I-K Join E-L. G is midpoint of E-L.
H-G = 3/4 “.Draw a line E-F perpendicular to E-C
such that E-F = = 2” Join E-F-L and E-H-L. As
shown
Cut the draft along the line K-T-O-F-I-V-H-J-C-R-
E-D-M-L-K.Separate the sheets. Keep one aside.
This is the draft of the kameez back. In the other
portion cut the front neck shape K-M and front
scye shape T-N-F.
Cut the sleeves draft along the line A-B-J-K-I-E -H
–L-A. Open the fold .Cut the front sleeve shape E-
F-L-A Draft of the sleeves is ready.
Layout
Place the paper drafts on the fabric as shown in the layout and cut the different parts of the
kameez.
Kameez Neck Line Designs for practice
Prepare fusing as per neck shapes & finish the neck lines
KAMEEZ
4.5 - OPERATION BREAKDOWN / SEWING PROCESS OF KAMEEZ
Steps Process Sample Average time
in seconds
Neck Line Finishing
1 Fuse Front Neck. Trim 1 cm

throughout shape. 30
2 Run Stitch Front Neck Line Shape 120
3 Slash on Corner points & turn.

10
4 50
Sew edge stitch.
5 Fuse Back Neck. Trim 1 cm 20

throughout shape.
6
Run Stitch Back Neck Shape
30
7 Cut slashes around the neck & turn
10
Sew edge stitch
8
45
Ready Neck Lines (Back & Front)

9
Sleeve Preparation:
10 Sleeves (Left & Right)
Check the sleeves of Left & Right
11 Fold and stitch ½ ‘ hem for both 50

sleeves. 2 stitch lines
Assembling:
12 Join left & right shoulder seam.
and Over lock shoulder seam.
10
10
13 Centre Notch sleeves 15
Sleeve Joining with Bodice

14 Sleeve Joining with Bodice 180
LHS & RHS
15 Over Lock both sleeves arm holes 150
16 Side Seam joining: 180

Mark Sleeve Width and join the
side seam till the opening desired
17 Fold and stitch side opening both 480

sides.
2 stitch lines
18 Fold and stitch bottom hem. 240

2 stitch lines
19 Hem neckline Back & Front 180
20 Ready Garment
CHAPTER – 18
SALWAR
DAY-35
_______________________________________________
INTRODUCTION
In India it is worn mostly by women. It is also worn by women in Bangladesh. A salwar resembles a
loose pyjama and it is drawn tightly at the waist and it tapers at the ankles.
In India, the garment was originally confined to the North, but as a convenient and modest
alternative to a sari. It has become popular across the nation. By varying the fabric, color and the
level of embroidery also be made it to suit all climates.
Salwar Kameez is a combination of three pieces - Salwar, Kameez and Dupatta.
Salwar kameez is also considered as an alternative to sari as it is easier to run and walk So, a
salwar kameez is a comfortable, graceful outfit can be worn by anyone on any occasion.
Measuring of Salwar
Land Marks :
Land marks are the designated points on the human body for measuring the exact location.
Otherwise there will be a variation in taking measurement by every one.
Land Marks
1. Waist Level
2. Hip Level
4. Hip length
5. Crotch Level
6. Knee Level
8. Ankle level
Measuring the salwar
1. Waist Round
2. Abdomen
3. Hip Round
4. Hip Length
5. Crotch
6. Thigh
7. Knee
8. Ankle
Terminology of Salwar
A-C - Salwar length

(excluding belt height)
F-G - Inseam
A-E - Salwar Width
E-F - Crotch Length
C-G - Bottom Width
G-I to HJ - Waist Belt

Height
G-H -Belt width

Measurement Chart
MEASURENTS TABLE FOR AN AVERAG WOMEN (IN INCHES)
MEASUREMENTS SMALL MEDIUM LARGE X LARGE XX LARGE
AROUND WAIST 26” 28” 30” 32” 34” 36” 38” 40” 42” 44”
HIPS ABOUT 7” OR 36” 38” 40” 42” 44” 46” 48” 50” 52” 54”
8” BELOW WAIST
WAIST TO ANKLE 36” 361/2” 37” 371/2” 38” 381/2” 39” 391/2” 40” 401/2”
Total Components of a Salwar
S.No Name of the Components Number of Fusing/Template Grain Line

pieces
(Fabric)
1. Left Salwar Panel 1
2. Right Salwar Panel 1
3. Salwar Belt 2
4. String 1
5 Bottom fusing 2
Total 5 2
Exercise Guide
Exercise Exercises to be Prepared Machine Average Seam

No. Required Time
1.1 Bottom hem design practice SNLS 180 sec Edge Neatening
1.4 Plain Seams SNLS 10 Sec Super Imposed

Seams
Measurements: Inches
Salwar length 38
Waist Round 28
Hip Round 36
Drafting Procedure of a Salwar
Waist Band
Draw a rectangle PQRS having side P-S is on fold.
P-Q= ½ seat +3½ “
P-S =7” for adults and for children ⅟₆ th seat +½”.
Extend S-P to P’ such that P-P’ = 2½”
Extend R Q to Q’ to P’ such that Q Q1 = 2½”
P-P1 Q-Q1 is for casing.
Leg piece
Salwar
B-C full length-waist piece length+1”
From B draw a line B-A perpendicular to B-C and equal to ½ of the width of cloth-2”. For the seat
measurement above 42” purchase cloth whose width is 40” or 44”.for the rest 36” wide cloth is
enough.
On the line B-C mark point F such that B-F ⅟₆th seat + 1”.
From point F draw line F-G perpendicular to C-B such that F-G = A-B..
Produce Line F-G to E such that E-G = 2”.
Join A and G.
Join E and A by a curved line as shown in the figure 1.
From point C draw C-F perpendicular to B-C such that C-D =1/2 bottom round + ½”..
Join E-F.
operations of the garment.
This time study is for the domestic purpose not for mass production assembly line
OPERATION BREAKDOWN/ SEWING PROCESS OF SALWAR
Step Process Sample Average

s Time
1 Preparation of Salwar Lower Panel 10 Sec

(Left & Right)
2 Fuse Salwar bottom (Left & Right 15 Sec

Leg)
3 Fold and press 20 Sec
4 Run Stitch on fold 60 sec
5 Top stitch on face side for design 40 Sec

(Left & Right Leg)
6 Sew Salwar Bottom Design (Left & 180 sec

Right Leg)
7 Ready Design on (Left & Right
Leg)
8 Mark bottom width (Left & Right 10 Sec

Leg)
9 Join Inseam (Left & Right Leg) 400 sec

10 Over lock Inseam (Left & Right) 130 Sec
11 Pitch Point Matching (temporary 10 Sec

stitch)
12 Sew Crotch length from CF to CB. 60 sec
13 Over Lock Crotch Length 30 Sec

14 Crotch Point Matching
15 Pleats tacking for left & right front 300 sec
16 Arrange pleats with temporary Stitch

on either sides.
Measure equals to waist round

17 Back Pleat tacking 40 Sec
18 Waist Belt Preparation: 120 Sec
Join Belt pieces
19 Over Lock 40 Sec
20 Sew CF leaving the gap of 2 inches 10 Sec
for Waist Fold (Naifa)
21 Fold and Finish to opening at CF 20 Sec

Side to pass string
22 Fold & Sew waist fold. (Naifa) 1 ¼’ 240 Sec
23 Notch CF, CB Sides salwar & belt

before attachment
24 Belt Attachment ½’ 310 Sec
25 Over lock 30 Sec

26 Ready Salwar before top stitch
27 Turn &Top stitch Belt.1/4 “ 250 Sec
28 Prepare String (Nada) Measuring 420 Sec

Waist Round
29 Finishing: 180 sec
Trim all the threads with trimmer.
Iron and submit the garment.

30 Ready Salwar
Calculation – 2925 sec / 60 sec = 48Min 45 sec
Total Average time Required – 48 Min 45 sec
(including Stitching, Handling, Ironing & Finishing)

CHAPTER – 18
CHURIDAAR
DAY – 38
INTRODUCTION:
Churidar pyjama are tightly fitting trousers worn by both men and women in South Asia. In Pakistan
Churidar is most famous in people of North Indian Origin including Pakistani Punjabis and in people
of Karachi who migrated from India in 1947. Churidars are a variant of the common salwar pants.
Salwars are cut wide at the top and narrow at the ankle. Churidars narrow more quickly, so that
contours of the leg are revealed. They are usually cut on the bias (at a 45-degree angle to the grain
of the fabric) which makes them naturally stretchy. Stretch is important when pants are closefitting.
They are also longer than the leg and sometimes finish with a tightly fitting buttoned cuff at the
ankle. The excess length falls into folds and appears like a set of bangles resting on the ankle
(hence 'churidar'; 'churi': bangle, 'dar': like). When the wearer is sitting, the extra material is the
"ease" that makes it possible to bend the legs and sit comfortably. The word "churidar" is from Hindi
and made its way into English only in the 20th century. Earlier, tight fitting churidar-like pants worn in
India were referred to by the British as Moghul breeches, long-drawers, or mosquito drawers. The
churidar is usually worn with a kameez (tunic) by women or a kurta (a loose over shirt) by men, or
they can form part of a bodice and skirt ensemble, as seen in the illustration of 19th century Indian
women wearing churidar with a bodice and a transparent overskirt.
Measurements: Inches Drafting Procedure of Churidar
Full length 38
Waist 28
Seat 36
Knee round 15
Bottom round 12
A-D =full length

D –E = for gathers =3 to 5” or to taste
E-F =I” for folding.
A-G =1⅛” for casing
A-B = 1/3 seat - 1”
C is the midpoint of B-D.
Draw perpendiculars from the points G, A, B, C, D, E and F
G-H= 1/3 seat+ 1” as per wish
G-H = A-I = B-K.
K-R =1½” to 2”
R-L =1½”
J is the midpoint of I-K
Shape the front curve H- I-J-R and back curve (red curved line) H- I- L as shown in the figure.
C-M =half of knee round + ½”
N-E =half of bottom round +½”
R-N =4” to 6” for opening
Join the curve R-M-N-O and L-M-N-O as shown on the figure
Red line is back shape of the Churidaar
Lay Out of Churidaar
In this method draft is placed on the material in bias. See layout 1. Plenty of material gets wasted in
this method .If the width of the material is not enough divide the draft in to 2 pieces by cutting on the
dotted line P-Q.in the draft Unfold the draft .Cut the upper part on straight grain and the lower part
on true bias. Add ½” seam allowance at each side along the line P-Q. in the draft. Later on stitch the
two pieces together and proceed.
List of Components of Churidar
S.No Name of the Components Number of pieces Fusing/Temp Grain Line

(Fabric) late
1. Leg piece Churi (Left & Right) 2 --
2. Draw string 1 --
Total 3
OPERATION BREAKDOWN/ SEWING PROCESS OF A CHURIDAR
STEPS OPERATIONS
1 Stitch hem for LHS bottom with double fold, where first fold is of 1 cm and second of ½”.
Repeat the same with RHS bottom
2 Stitch plackets for opening
3 Join Back rise & over lock
4 Stitch front rise sides (4” length from top) with double fold of ¼” each
5 Stitch waist hem with double fold, first fold is of 1 cm and second of 1 ½” for draw string
insertion
6 Stitch remaining front rise 7 Over lock
7 Stitch inseam starting from LHS bottom to RHS bottom in one go
8 Stitch drawstring of ¼” finished measurements
9 Pressing

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SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR

Pre requisites of Training

Duration of training 312 hrs (39 Working days)

5th Standard Pass or above

Minimum age 18 – 35 years

Material Teaching Method

1 Different Parts of a garment (Shirt Face to face interaction

2 Trims & Accessories Zipper, Buttons, Face to face interaction

18 Exercise -9 Industrial Sewing Face to face interaction

1. Attach Facings to Pocket bag

S.No Detailed Session Plan Days Material Required Teaching Method

 On Going Training Assessment :-

 After Course Completion:-

 Machine Operator / Tailor

Different Parts of a Garment

CLASS ROOM CONCEPTS

Garment Part Corresponding body part

Front panel Chest

Back panel + yoke Back

Darts: A tapered seam of fabric for adjusting the fit of a garment.

Hem: The finished lower edge of the dress shirt body.

Tail: The part of a shirt below the waistline.

GARMENT PART DESCRIPTION AND FUNCTION

Collar point spread The distance between the collar points

GARMENT PART DESCRIPTION AND FUNCTION

Back panel Back half of the leg covering back portion

GARMENT PART DESCRIPTION AND FUNCTION

Pocket bag A fabric envelop inside garment with pocket as opening

Flap A fabric lid to cover pocket opening it’s a design feature

Flap Lining Fabric used underneath main flap fabric

Welts Upper and lower Pocket mouth opening

Belt Belt loop

Side patch pockets

GARMENT PART DESCRIPTION AND FUNCTION

Fornt Panel Front half of leg it covering front portion

Back Panel Back half of the leg covering back portion

Flap A fabric lid to cover pocket opening it’s a design feature.

PARTS OF A ROUND NECK T-SHIRT

GARMENT PART DESCRIPTION AND FUNCTION

Sleeve The part of a garment that covers the arm.

Bottom Hemming T-shirt bottom is finished by hemming it to prevent fraying.

GARMENT PART DESCRIPTION AND FUNCTION

Colar The part of a T-shirt that encompasses the neckline of the

Sleeve The part of a garment that covers the arm

Trims & Accessories

CLASS ROOM CONCEPTS:

Top tape extension

Increase or decrease the size of an opening to allow or restrict the passage of

Twill tape Bias Tape

Lining is a material layer that enhance

By supporting the interiors of the garment or garment part

In sewing, piping is a type of trim or embellishment consisting of a strip of folded fabric

Appliqué is a smaller ornament or device applied to

2 hole sew through button

4 hole sew through button

Fancy decorative buttons

It consists of two layers:

kids wear as kids are the rapidly growing bodies.

Units & Measurement

CLASS ROOM CONCEPTS:

Understand what a 1/8th, 1/4th, ½ (half) is.

Two 1/16th together make an 1/8th of an

Four 1/16th or two 1/8th make an 1/4th of an

In a measuring tape CM are given on the other side