PAINTS &VARNISHES

BTM V
3rd Year B.Arch.
ICAD

AR. PRATEEK DANDARE

 PAINTS
• Paint is a substance used as a final finish to all surfaces and
as a coating to protect or decorate the surfaces.
• Paint is a pigment opaque material that completely covers
and hides the surface to which it is applied.
• Paints are available in oil-based and water based formulae.
• It is used as a protective coating and is normally sprayed or
brushed on. Paint prevents corrosion. It is a combination of
pigments with suitable thinners or oils to provide decorative
and protective coating.
• Painting protects surfaces from weathering effects, heat,
moisture or gases and also prevents corrosion of metals,
timber and plastered surfaces and improves their
appearance.
 PROPERTIES OF PAINTS
• Wear ability.
• Covering ability.
• Ease of cleaning.
• Protection of under layers.
• Environmentally friendly.
• Improves aesthetic.
• Practical and cost effective.
 COMPOSITION OF PAINTS
Fundamental components of an oil – based paints
are:

• Body or Base.
• Vehicle or Carrier.
• Pigments.
• Thinners.
• Driers.
 BODY or BASE
• Makes the paint film harder and more resistant to
abrasion (Scratches).
• Reduce shrinkage cracks on drying. (In white paint Body
is also the pigment.)
• Commonly used bases (body) are white lead, Zinc
Oxide, Iron Oxide ( Red Oxide), Metallic Powder such as
Al., Cu, Br. Etc. Paints are more often named after the
base as Lead paint, Zink paint, Aluminium paint.
• The binder or resin is the actual film forming
component of the paint.
• It imparts adhesion, binds the pigments together, and
strongly influences such as gloss potential, exterior
durability, flexibility and toughness.
 VARIOUS BASES OF PAINTS
White Lead
This is a carbonate of lead, forms the base of lead paints.
It possesses good bulk so it is widely used. It is dense
permanent and waterproof. It is not useful in work. It is
most suitable for wood surface and not used for iron
surface as it is not protecting against rusting.
Red Lead
It is oxide of lead and forms base of lead paints. It is
suitable for painting iron surfaces and for providing a
priming coat to wood surfaces. It solidifies in a short time
with linseed oil, hence sometimes also used as dryer.
 VARIOUS BASES OF PAINTS
Oxide of Zinc – (Zinc White)
Oxide of Zinc and forms base for zinc paint. It is
smooth, transparent and non-poisonous. It has less
bulk so very costly. It is less durable and difficult to
work.
Oxide of Iron
Oxide of Iron and forms base to all Iron paint. Tint of
paint varies from yellow to brown to black. It mixes
very easily to vehicle. It is effective in preventing
rusting of iron surfaces. It is durable and cheaply
available.
 VARIOUS BASES OF PAINTS
Lithopone
Mixture of zinc sulfide and barytes. Similar to
appearance of zinc oxide. It is cheap in cost and can
easily be applied on the surface. When exposed to
sunlight, it changes the color, hence used in interior.
 VEHICLE OR CARRIER
• Oily liquid in which the body and pigments are soluble.
• Facilitate the paint to be conveniently spread over the
surface.
• Oils are most commonly used as vehicle.
• The main purpose of the vehicle is to adjust the
viscosity of the paint.
• It is volatile and does not become part of the paint film.
• Its main function is as a carrier for non-volatile
components.
• Water is the main vehicle for water base paint.
 VEHICLE FOR PAINTS
• The most commonly used vehicle is Linseed Oil. It is
transparent and slightly pale cream in color. The acids
present in it reacts with the oxygen of the atmosphere and
form a thin and hard film of the paint on the surface to be
painted. For interior work, generally raw linseed oil is used.
• For external work pale boiled linseed oil is preferred to raw
linseed oil, as later is quite thin and takes a long time to dry.
For better and quicker result, double boiled linseed oil is
used and is best suited for external work.
• The other commonly used drying oils are dehydrated castor
oil, Tung oil, poppy oil, bleached oil and fish oil etc. Poppy
oil is inferior in drying qualities to linseed oil, tough its color
stands longer. It is used for very delicate color.
 PIGMENTS
• Pigments are materials which gives the paint its
colour. In white paint the body is the pigment.
• Natural pigments are natural Iron Oxide, Chrome
Oxide.
• Synthetic pigments are coal and Tar derivatives.
• Pigments impart qualities such as colour and
opacity (sometimes inappropriately called Hiding)
and influences the properties such as gloss, film
flow, and protective abilities.
 PIGMENTS
• Most of the pigments
are derived from
animal, vegetable,
and mineral sources
and are composed of
natural mineral
oxides. These days
synthetic pigments
are used. They are
derived from coal and
tar.
 PIGMENTS
The most commonly used pigments to impart in various colors
to paints are enlisted below:

• White: White lead, lithopone, titanium white.

• Black: Lamp black, Charcoal black, Carbon black, Graphite.
• Red: Red lead, Natural red oxide of iron, Chrome red.
• Brown: Contain iron oxide as the necessary agent.
• Yellow: Chrome yellow, Yellow ochers, Zinc chromate.
• Green: Chromium oxide, chrome green, Copper sulphate.
• Blue: Persian Blue, cobalt blue.
THINNERS
 THINNERS
• Thinners are volatile substances added to vehicles in paint
for:
a. increase the fluidity.
b. Making paint more smoother.
c. Help penetration in to porous surfaces.
• The most Common solvent used is “Turpentine”. (Made by
distilling gum from number of Pine trees). It evaporates
quickly and also facilitates the drying of paint. It is not to be
used in exposed work and in final coat because it reduces
the gloss of the paint and is also affected by atmospheric
agencies. When it is to be used ,it should be added in small
quantities.
• Other Thinners used are petroleum, Sprits, or Napths and
colour hydrocarbon.
 DRIERS
The most common used driers are salts of Iron, zinc,
cobalt, Manganese and Calcium in the form of lead
oxide for lead base paints and zinc sulphate and
manganese oxides with zinc oxide base paints.

Characteristics of the Driers:

• Added to quicken the drying of Vehicle.
• To accelerate the oxidation and hardening of
vehicle.
DRIERS
 DRIERS
The most common used driers are salts of Iron, zinc,
cobalt, Manganese and Calcium in the form of lead
oxide for lead base paints and zinc sulphate and
manganese oxides with zinc oxide base paints.

Characteristics of the Driers:

• Added to quicken the drying of Vehicle.
• To accelerate the oxidation and hardening of
vehicle.
TYPES OF PAINTS
OIL PAINTS

WATER PAINTS

DISTEMPERS

CEMENT PAINTS

ENAMEL PAINTS
 OIL PAINTS
• These paints are generally used for protective,
decorative and aesthetic purposes.
 WATER PAINTS
• These are the paints which consist of mineral
pigments that are carried in water in presence of
water. In water paints, the base is not white lead,
but instead whiting or chalk is used to serve this
purpose. The vehicle used in water paints is not an
oil, but clear water, hence known as water paints.
 WATER PAINTS
Various types of water paints are as follows:

• EMULSIONS - An emulsion comprises of two unmixable

liquid, the one being dispersed in the other in the form of
fine droplets. In emulsion paints the pigments are finally
dispersed in water so as to form an emulsion. Emulsion
paints are water thinned and are easy to apply with brushes
and remove splashes. The most commonly used emulsion
paint is polyvinyl acetate base (PVA), this substance being a
synthetic resin. The paint show a mat like finish.

• ACRYLIC or SEMI – GLOSS EMULSION - These paints are

based on acrylic emulsion and can be thinned with water.
They are used for painting of interior surfaces.
 WATER PAINTS
PROPERTITIES OF EMULSION PAINTS

• These are easy to apply with brushes or roller and give

a fine finish.
• These are generally used for internally, and for non-
absorbent surfaces.
• They can be washed from 3 to 7 days after application.
• They do not adhere to oily and greasy surfaces.
• They are free from persistent swell while drying and dry
rapidly.
 WATER PAINTS
USE OF EMULSION PAINT

• Paints of this kind are used for decorating walls and

ceilings. These are not suitable for the use on wood
work, except as an under coat. The normal covering
capacity of such paint is about 14.0 sqm. Per liter.
Emulsion paints are also known as plastic paints or
Latex paint.
DISTEMPERS
 DISTEMPERS
• Distempers are also termed as water paints.
• These are similar to oil paints with the difference that
the base in this case is not white lead but instead
whiting or chalk is used to serve this purpose.
• vehicle used is not oil but clear water is used in its
place.
• Distempers are available in the form of powder. They
are known as dry distempers.
• Distempers in the form of paste are known as Oil
Bound distempers.
• In order to increase the durability of distemper 4 to 5%
of glue is added. Glue serves as an emulsifying agent
and also prevent from being removed when rubbed.
 DISTEMPERS
• Dry distempers are the cheapest form of paints. It
contains about 90 to 95 % of whiting and rest of glue.
Though cheap, yet not withstand washing and hence is
not suited for surfaces which are subjected to the
action of water.
• Oil Bound distemper is available in the form of pest and
are made thin by adding clean and clear water before
use. These consist of an emulsion of an oil and water in
which suitable pigments are added. The oil used is
generally linseed oil. When the distemper is subjected
to the action of weather , water evaporates leaving
behind a thin film which presents a colourful and
decorative appearance.
 DISTEMPERS
USE OF DISTEMPERS:

Distempers are usually applied for interior works for

presenting a pleasing coloured appearance. These
are not used for the surfaces which remain wet for
most of the day time, such as bath rooms, kitchens
etc.
 DISTEMPERS
APPLICATION OF DISTEMPER
• Distempers may be applied on newly plastered walls or
on walls which have previously white or colour washed.
The plastered walls should be left clean for about six to
eight months before the distempers are applied on
them.
• Before applying, the plastered surfaces should be
perfectly dry and free from any surface defect. The old
wash, or colour if any, should be removed completely
by sand papers. The distempers are the is one which
applied with a brush cross-wise followed by up & down
strokes. A good distempered surface is one which does
not show “Crazing” on the surface.
CEMENT PAINTS
 CEMENT PAINTS
• These are very economical, durable and decorative
paints which are made with the base of white Portland
cement.
• These paints also contain varying proportions of
hydrated lime, colouring pigments and hygroscopic
salts.
• A small quantity of aluminium stearate is also added to
act as water repellent.
• Cement paint can be used, both, for exterior or interior
purposes.
• They are available in powder form and require mixing
of water only.
 CEMENT PAINTS
PROPERTITIES OF CEMENT PAINT
• Cement paint is a fine homogeneous powder which is
readily mixable with water.
• It can be applied by brush or sprayer.
• It gives a smooth mat finished appearance without any
brush marks.
• It provides a hard, durable, waterproof coating which
resists the penetration of dampness.
• It does not flake or peel off and is un-effected by
climate conditions.
• It can also be washed.
 CEMENT PAINTS
USES OF CEMENT PAINTS

These paints can be used as a durable and decorative

product for cement plastered walls and other
surfaces of residential buildings as well as public
buildings etc.
ENAMEL PAINTS
 ENAMEL PAINTS
• Enamel paints are oil based paints and contain white lead or
zinc white oil, petroleum spirit and resinous matter.
• Now a days these paints are usually based on titanium
white.
• They dry slowly and form a hard and durable surface.
• Surfaces painted with enamel paints are not affected by
acids, alkalis, hot and cold water and steam etc.
• These paints are nontoxic.
• They can be thinned with white spirit.
• Alkyd and other resins have largely replaced oil, as a
medium for the pigments.
• Enamel paints are usually available as readymade paints.
 ENAMEL PAINTS
USE OF ENEMEL PAINTS

• These paints are used for internal and external use.

• These are used for protecting timber and other
timber products.
• These are also used for painting doors and window
frames.
SURFACE PREPARATION AND
PROCESS OF PAINTING
 INTERIOR WALLS
• Pre-Painting
• Check the surface for incidence of dampness or water
seepage.
• Rectify the water seepage problem at source. This could
mean repairing leaking pipes or cracks in the exterior walls.
• Any loose plaster should be removed from the wall. Check
for loose plaster by tapping on the walls. A hollow sound
indicates loose plaster.
• Masonry work is to be undertaken to fill up all cracks and
repair broken plaster.
• Please ensure sufficient curing time (7 to 21 days depending
on extent of plastering). When re-plastering is done it
should be given adequate drying and stabilising time to
bridge the cracks or smoothen the surface.
 INTERIOR WALLS
• Surface Preparation
• Allow newly plastered surfaces to mature for a period of at least 6
months after the application of a coat of lime ash, to ensure thorough
drying of plaster. Popping of plaster, commonly associated with new
Neeru plasters, can be taken care of subsequently during painting.
• Remove loose particles and paint flakes. Scrape with sandpaper to
ensure that the surface is dry and free from dust, dirt or grease.
• Previous coatings of lime wash, powder distemper or cement paint must
be thoroughly scraped off. Earlier coatings of oil or synthetic emulsion
paints, if in good condition, need not be removed. However, the gloss or
sheen of such coating must be removed by thorough sanding.
• Cracked or flaked paint must also be completely removed.
• Fungus affected areas need to be given a separate treatment. Make a 5-
10% solution of bleach powder in water and apply on affected areas
with brush or sponge. Wash the walls with clean water after an interval
of 8-10 hours. Allow the surface to dry sufficiently.
 INTERIOR WALLS
• Painting
• Apply a coat of wall primer. Use Decoprime Wall Primer
(solvent thinnable) on absorbent surfaces and use
Decoprime Wall Primer (water thinnable) on new surfaces.
• Fill and level the minor undulations of wall by applying
putty. For best results, use Asian Paints Acrylic Wall Putty. In
case of major undulations on the wall surface, Plaster of
Paris (POP) needs to be applied. Ensure that the surface is
uniformly smooth by sanding, after POP or putty work.
• One liberal coat of Decoprime Wall Primer (solvent thinned
or water thinned) is recommended on puttied areas before
applying the top coat. The primer should be allowed to dry
for 10 - 12 hours. If the primer coat is not applied over the
puttied areas, the top coat can appear patchy.
 INTERIOR WALLS
• Painting
• Avoid application of putty or filling compound while
painting exterior surfaces. Fill up cracks with a 1:3 (by
volume) cement and sand mixture.
• All external drainage pipes must be checked for rusting or
leakage. Any faulty plumbing must be rectified.
• Special attention must be given to the roof. Check for cracks
near the edges and close to the water reservoirs.
• Skilled masonry or waterproofing work on the ceiling will
enhance the performance of the paint.
 EXTERIOR WALLS
• Pre-Painting
• Undertake repairs of any wall imperfections before you start
painting.
• The most common problem with exterior walls, especially old
construction, is cracks in the wall. Fill up cracks with a 1:3 cement
and sand mixture.
• Avoid applying putty or filling compound while painting exterior
surfaces.
• All external drainage pipes must be checked for rusting or
leakage. Any faulty plumbing must be rectified.
• Special attention must be given to the roof. Check for cracks near
the edges and close to the water reservoirs.
• Skilled masonry or waterproofing work on the ceiling will
enhance the performance of the painted surfaces.
 EXTERIOR WALLS
• Surface Preparation
• Newly plastered surfaces must be allowed to cure for at least 35 to 45 days
before painting.
• To ensure longer protection, the surface to be painted should be free from dust,
grease and any loose materials.
• Remove any fungus and algae growth thoroughly by brushing it vigorously with
wire brush and then cleaning it with bleaching powder solution in water
(dissolve 10% bleaching powder in 1 litre of water, filter the solution and apply
with a brush or sponge). This treatment should be done with greater care on top
of awnings, sunshades, parapets and other horizontal surfaces where water is
likely to accumulate during monsoon.
• Previously oil painted surfaces should be sanded thoroughly to remove loose
particles, and made dull and matte for better adhesion. Exterior rough surfaces,
previously coated with cement paint, should be wire brushed and washed with
water thoroughly and dried completely. Before painting, ensure that the surface
is free from chalking.
• The exterior surface should not be affected by water, and constant dampness
should be avoided. If you are painting during the rains, allow 2-3 days of total
sunshine for the surface to dry out completely and before you start painting.
 EXTERIOR WALLS
• Painting
• Apply a liberal coat of Asian Paints Exterior Wall Primer
using recommended method.
• Apply two coats of top coat paint at recommended dilution.
You can use Apex Weatherproof Exterior Emulsion or Apex
Textured Exterior Emulsion or Ace Exterior Emulsion as top
coat.
• A gap of 4 to 6 hours must be given between two coats.
• It is recommended that horizontal surfaces like the tops of
awnings and parapets must be given an additional coat for
greater protection.
 METAL SURFACES
• Pre-Painting
• The surface should be absolutely free from dirt,
dust, grease, rust, moisture etc.
• Cover the area that you don’t want to paint with a
masking tape, paper and/or cloth.
 METAL SURFACES
• Surface Preparation
• A good surface preparation is essential to ensure the performance of a
paint system.
• In case of new steel surfaces applied with grease / oil, degreasing is to
be carried out by washing or wiping with suitable solvent.
• Thoroughly sand the surface with Emery Paper 180, so as to remove
loose rusts. Wipe clean.
• For hot-rolled steel surfaces, it is recommended to remove the mill scale
by sand blasting. This step is essential for the performance of high
performance primer systems like epoxies.
• For cold-rolled steel surfaces, though sand blasting is preferable, a
thorough cleaning by mechanical sanding will be adequate.
 METAL SURFACES
• For non-ferrous metal surfaces like aluminium, galvanized iron, tin etc.,
apply a coat of etch primer.
• Asian Paints offers a wide range of metal primers and in the increasing
order of rust protection, they are - TruCare Red Oxide Primer,
Decoprime Premium Metal Primer, TruCare Yellow Primer, Apcolite
Advanced 2-Pack Epoxy Primer and TruCare Grey 1-Pack Epoxy Primer.
• Apply your chosen Asian Paints metal primer, chosen according to your
corrosion protection requirement, as per their corresponding
application procedure.
• Apply the primers as per their corresponding application
recommendations.
• Ensure adequate drying time for primers as per their product
recommendations.
 METAL SURFACES
• Painting
• Sand the primer with emery paper No. 400. Wipe clean and ensure that
the surface is free of particles.
• We offer a range of top coats viz, Apcolite Premium Gloss enamel,
Apcolite Advanced High Gloss enamel, Apcolite Premium Satin Enamel,
Apcolite Advanced 2 K Epoxy Finish, Tractor enamel.
• Apply the top coats as per their corresponding application
recommendations.
• Ensure adequate drying time between coats as per the corresponding
product recommendation.
• Ensure application of recommended number of coats for best
performance of the overall painting system.
 WOODEN SURFACES / OPAQUE
FINISHES
• Surface Preparation
• Previously painted wooden surfaces must be thoroughly
sanded to remove any dust or grease.
• Apply wood primer by brush after thinning to given ratio by
recommended thinner.
• Allow it to dry for 6-8 hours before applying putty or lambi.
• Sand the applied putty with sand paper no. 180 and apply
2nd coat of wood primer.
• Begin painting the wooden surface with top coat.
 WOODEN SURFACES / OPAQUE
FINISHES
• Painting
• You can choose conventional enamels (Apcolite Premium
Gloss Enamel, Apcolite Premium Satin Enamel or Gattu
Synthetic Enamel).
• Apply wood primer by brush after thinning it to the
specified ratio with the recommended thinner.
• Allow it to dry for 6-8 hours, then apply putty or lambi.
• Sand the applied putty with sand paper no. 180 and apply
second coat of wood primer.
• Now the wooden surface is ready for painting with the top
coat.
 WOODEN SURFACES / OPAQUE
FINISHES
• Enamels are normally applied by brushing, although they
can also be sprayed.
• Enamels take longer to dry hence, extra care must be taken
to ensure a dust-free environment while the paint is drying.
• Two coats of paint is sufficient in most cases, however, if the
earlier paint shade was significantly darker than the new
one, an additional coat of paint is recommended.
 WOODEN SURFACES /
TRANSPARENT FINISHES
• Surface Preparation
• The wooden surface to be coated/ painted must be seasoned (moisture
level between 10-15%). It indicates proper level of moisture and
treatment to prevent deformation in extreme hot/ cold climate.
• In the case of new wood surface, sand the surface with emery paper
along the direction of the grain of wood to remove the roughness.
• Follow this by applying suitable wood filler. The purpose of the filler is to
fill the grains and pores, and it should not be used as putty. The excess
filler must be removed by strokes along the grain pattern. After 30
minutes, the filler may be applied again if required. Allow 2 to 3 hours
drying time.
• Sand the filled surface with emery paper no. 320.
• Staining with Apcolite Wood Stains is optional. Do not use Apcolite
Wood Stains on exterior wooden surfaces.
 WOODEN SURFACES /
TRANSPARENT FINISHES
• Painting
• For New Wood
• Ensure that the surface to be coated is free from dust.
• Choose any transparent coating from Asian Paints like Touchwood,
Melamyne or PU Clear Finish.
• Two to three coats of finish coating application are recommended to
achieve the best results in terms of gloss and decorative appeal.
• Containers should be tightly closed after use.
• For Pre-Polished Wood
• Sand the surface along the grain with emery paper no. 180 followed by
no. 320 to get a smooth uniform surface.
• If staining is desired, completely remove the old finish. Wipe the surface
free of loose dust.
• Proceed with the finish paint coats as explained above.
 DEFECTS IN PAINTING
• FADING: The gradual loss of color is known as fading. This may be due to
the effect of Sun rays.
• FLAKING OR PEELING: Due to poor adhesion, paint may peel off from
the surface.
• BLISTERING: This is caused by water vapour, which is trapped behind
the painted surface. It may occur due to imperfect seasoning of timber.
• BLOOM: The formation of dull patches on the finished surface is known
as bloom. It
• may occur due to bad ventilation or defective paints.
• RUNNING: The paint runs back and leaves some areas of the surface
covered. This defect occurs when surface is too thickly painted sagging
will occur.
• WRINKLING: If the horizontal surface is too thickly painted wrinkling will
occur.
 DEFECTS IN PAINTING
• FLASHING: The patches seen on the painted surface is known as
flashing. It may be due to poor workmanship, weather action, or poor
quality of paint.
• GRINNING: If the opacity of the final coat is insufficient, the back
ground of the painted surface is clearly visible. This is known as grinning.
• EFFLORANCE: Efflorance or formation of white powdery deposit on wall
after painting is caused due to salt present in the building material like
brick, mortar which occur on surface later on.
• SOLUTION: Give a long time gap between plastering and painting. (
About 6 months including one monsoon). Use paint with a porous film
like Emulsions or Distempers.
• BRUSH MARKS: Brush marks are caused due to under thinning of paints
or due to poor application of final coat of paint or due to poor quality of
brush.
DEFECTS IN PAINTING
BLISTERING
 BLISTERING
• Is your paint bubbling up and forming blisters on your
wall?
• Causes
• Caused by trapped moisture or gases in paint film
(more likely in enamels)

• Solution
• Smooth sand the surface and then repaint it
• Prevent it by following the specified recoating time
• Make sure your top coat isn’t too thick
BRUSH MARKS
 BRUSH MARKS
• Unsightly brush marks ruining your paint job?
• Causes
• Applying paint using poor quality brushes
• Highly viscous paint
• Careless application
• Solution
• Prevention
• Use suitable brushes and thin paint to desired proportion
• Remedy
• Sand surface to a smooth finish and apply paint (after thinning to
desired proportion)
• Use good quality brushes
CHALKING
 CHALKING
• Paint coming off as a dusty white powder on your hands?
• Causes
• Application of paint over oily, greasy, or very smooth surfaces
• Application over loose particles like dust or rust
• Not sanding a previous coat of glossy paint
• Application over a partially dried coat
• Solution
• Prevention
• Ensure proper surface preparartion
• Remedy
• Surafce should be repainted
CHECKING & CHALKING
 CHECKING & CHALKING
• Is your paint film cracking and flaking in front of you?
• Causes
• Cracking of plaster
• Application of matte finish over a glossy undercoat finish
• Application of finish coat before drying of the under coat
• Applying quick, hard dry coats over a soft one
• Solution
• Prevention
• Undercoat and top coat of paint should have identical physical properties
• Allow drying time between two coats
• Remedy
• Entire coat must be completely removed
• Exposed base should be rubbed down to a smooth face and primed before
repainting
CISSING
 CISSING
• Walls have tiny craters with an uneven surface? they
probably weren’t cleaned properly.
• Causes
• Small impurities in paint (oil, grease) visible at the centre of
the hole

• Solution
• Prevention
• Clean surfaces prior to sanding and remove all sanding dust

• Remedy
• Remove paint completely from affected areas and repaint
LOW COVERAGE
 LOW COVERAGE
• Is the paint you’ve applied not covering enough area?
• Causes
• Improper thinning and application
• Highly absorbent surface
• Rough texture of plaster
• Top coat application directly over putty without application of
primer

• Solution
• Please read instructions on shade card or product packaging or
refer to "Features and Application" section
• Follow recommended instructions on application procedures and
thinning
MICROBIAL GROWTH
 MICROBIAL GROWTH
• Facing fungus, bacteria, and other organisms on your walls?
• Causes
• Painting over a surface affected with microbial growth
• Seepage or dampness in buildings
• Contamination of paint by materials used in putty preparation

• Solution
• Prevention
• Before painting, area should be cleaned with 5-10% bleach solution
• Use clear water for thinning and putty preparation
• Keep doors and windows open during and after painting
• Use recommended painting system

• Remedy
• Clean with bleach solution and repaint
ORANGE PEEL
 ORANGE PEEL
• Does the paint on your walls resemble an orange peel?
• Causes
• Application of top coat paint in highly viscous form
• Use of improper thinner
•
• Solution
• Prevention
• Sufficient drying time between coats
• Use recommended painting system
•
• Remedy
• Scrape out orange peel and repaint
PATCHINESS
 PATCHINESS
• Is your paint job a combination of multiple uneven levels and textures?
• Causes
• Application of finish coat over puttied surfaces
• High alkalinity of surface (evident in new walls)
• Incomplete drying of putty
• Application of thick coat of putty
• Solution
• Prevention
• Allow new walls to get cured for at least three months
• Apply thin coats of putty
• Always apply a primer coat after applying spot putty
• Always sandwich coats of putty with primer
• Cracks in plaster should be filled with cement sand mixture
• Remedy
• Scrape the surface and repaint adopting the right surface preparation
POOR ADHESION
 POOR ADHESION
• Is your paint losing its initial adhesion?
• Causes
• Application of paint over oily, greasy or very smooth surface
• Application over loose particles like dust or rust
• Not sanding previous coat of gloss paint
• Application over partially dried coat

• Solution
• Prevention
• Ensure proper surface preparation

• Remedy
• Surface should be repainted
SAGS AND RUNS
 SAGS AND RUNS
• Does your paint job seem droopy and uneven in application?
• Causes
• Application of excessively thick coat
• Use of a wrong thinner

• Solution
• Prevention
• Apply finish coat using recommended thinner
• Do not apply thick coats

• Remedy
• Sand surface to smoothen the sagged areas and repaint
YELLOWING
 YELLOWING
• Is the colour you chose now turning yellow?
• Causes
• Paint film deprived of natural sunlight (especially in case of enamels)
• Paint film subjected to too much sunlight

• Solution
• Prevention
• Use paints like Royale, Premium Emulsion
• Improve daylight and ventilation for inside work

• Remedy
• Surface should be cleaned and repainted
 VARNISH
• Varnish is a type of paint in which resins are used
instead of base.
• It is prepared by mixing suitable resins in a
particular solvent.
• It is usually used for painting wooden furniture and
other wood work so as to give them a brightened
ornamental look and to protect them from
weather.
• A transparent solution of the resinous substance in
LINSEED OIL, TURPENTINE, or in ALCOHOL is called
VARNISH.
 VARNISH
Characteristic of good Varnish

• It should dry rapidly.

• It should form a hard film on drying.
• It should not creak on drying.
• It should be durable and weather resistance.
• It should give uniform and pleasing appearance.
• It should not hide the natural grains of the inner
surface of the timber.
 VARNISH
INGREIENTS OF VARNISH
Varnish consists of:
A) Resins B) Solvents C) Driers

RESINS : The quality of the varnish depends upon resin. Common resins
are Amber, Copal, Mastic, Gum, Dammar, and Lakh which are some of the
principal resins. Resins serves the same function as is served by base in oil
paint.
SOLVENTS: They help in spreading the resin over the surface to be
varnished and act as vehicles. The commonly used vehicles are boiled
linseed oil and turpentine. Boiled oil dissolves Copal, Amber, whereas
turpentine is used as solvent for Dammer and resin. Alcoholic solvents are
likely methyl & ethyl alcohol and also use as solvent.
DRIER: This is added to help in quick drying of varnish. Driers are generally
added to varnish in the form of Litharge. It should not be added in large
proportions.
 VARNISH
TYPES OF VARNISHES
Varnishes are classified according to the solvent used for their preparation. Some
of the common types of varnishes are:
• OIL VARNISH: Oil varnish is made from the hardest gums or copal dissolved
carefully in oils. They are slow in drying but they are hard and durable. They are
specially used in the exposed works.
• TURPENTINE VARNISH: It is made by dissolving soft gum or resin in pure
turpentine. It is cheapest, more flexible, dries quickly and lighter in colour. It is
not durable to weathering and hence is used for interior work only.
• SPIRIT VARNISH: It is made from soft gum like shellac dissolve in spirit. They are
quicker and become hard and more brilliant than turpentine varnishes but these
are liable to crack and scale off and do not resist weathering action. These are
used for superior furniture work. Spirit varnish is also known as “French Polish”.
It can be made to impart desired colours also, just by adding suitable pigments.
• WATER VARNISH: These are made by dissolving Lac in hot water mixed with just
so much quantities of ammonia, borax and potash as will dissolve the Lac. This is
the only varnish which can bear washing. These are generally used for
varnishing maps and pictures.
 VARNISH
METHOD OF VARNISHINF & PAINTING ON WOOD WORKS (STEPS)

A) Preparation of surface: The new wood should be seasoned and it

must be dried before painting. The surface of the wood should be
cleaned and nails should be punched below the surface.
B) Knotting: The knots of the wood should be covered with suitable
material (Wax) is called Knotting.
C) First coat: After knotting the primary coat is applied on the surface of
the wood. It is usually applied before wood work is fixed.
D) Second coat: This coat is applied after knotting and priming coat.
Each coat is applied longitudinally in thin film and crossed so that no
brush marks are seen on the painted surface.
E) Final Coat: This coat is applied over second coat without any brush
marks.
 LACQUER
• It is a surface coating, the vehicle of which contains a
substantial quantity of a cellulose. This derivative is most
commonly nitrocellulose, but may be a cellulose caster such
as cellulose acetate or cellulose either such as ethyl
cellulose.
• Lacquers are made by dissolving nitrocellulose and other
modifying materials in a solvent and pigments if desired.
They dry by evaporation of the solvent.
• Lacquers are usually applied by spray, brushing. The solvent
for the lacquers must be chosen carefully.
• Nitrocellulose is very hard. It’s flexibility is modified by the
addition of plasticizers. They may be vegetable oils, such as
castor oil, or linseed oil. The adhesion of lacquer can be
improved by the addition of other resins.
 LACQUER
PROPERTIES

• It has the advantage of getting dried up very

quickly.
• It provides a protective covering to the polished
surfaces.
• It resist abrasion, cracking anal chalking.
• It improves the general get up of the article and
makes its surface bright and smooth.
 LACQUER
TYPES OF LACQUERS

• Cold –gum Lacquer: These lacquers can be easily applied with brush. It can dry
easily and on drying presents a bright glossy finished on the polished or
unpolished surfaces. These lacquers contain soft –resin and hence can be used
in the cold state, without heating.
• Hot –gum Lacquer: In this type hard resin are used and they are mixed by
heating or the work over which lacquering is to be done should be heated first.
They provide a very hard and glossy finish. These lacquers are not widely used
now days.
• Cellulose Lacquer: This type of lacquer contains a substantial quantity of
cellulose derivatives, generally nitrocellulose. Since nitrocellulose is very hard
some suitable plasticizer is added to increase its flexibility. It may be used as
colorless or a pigment may be added to impart a coloring hard film which does
not soften on being exposed to typical heat.
• Synthetic Lacquer: It provides a hard durable and resistant surface coating. The
vehicle of this contains synthetic resins which are extremely useful for
temperature variations, corrosive atmospheric and fumes etc.
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