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vol.

4 Issue 1

Editor-in-Chief
DEEPAK MOHINDRA may 2015
Editor
ILA SAXENA
CONTENTS
Chief Response Editor
VINITA PANDEY

Copy Editor
VEERESHWAR SOBTI

Asst. Copy Editor


16
cover story
SAHIL SEHGAL Go For Workwear: Fetch Higher
FOBs With Minimum Investment
Asst. Editor-Technical
tusshar kumar

Assistant Manager - Marketing & Advertising


Subir Kumar

Subscription Enquiry
22
buyer blog
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Creative Team consecutive year
RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL 18
PEEUSH JAUHARI Ajay Agal, CEO, Basic Apparels
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Photo Editor
SUMIT THARAN
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industry pulse
Time to Strengthen Middle
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8 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


EDITORIAL
It seems like yesterday when we launched Apparel Online in Bangladesh, yet it’s almost like
we’ve always been with the industry. In these three years, we have met and befriended so many
wonderful people that it has become our second home. My team is always excited to be in the
country and no amount of political unrest has ever deterred them from being with the industry.
Looking back at these three years, it has been an emotional journey… We were there when Rana
Plaza collapsed; we felt the pain when fire gutted the Tazreen Fashions factory, pride swelled our
chest when international buyers clamoured to support the industry in transforming it into a safe
working place… In these years we have become part ‘Bangladeshi’.
I remember that in the first year, my editorial in the May 2012 edition, passionately appealed
to the industry to consider us as one of them, and today the mails I get convinces me that our
magazine has not only found acceptance in the industry, but many consider us as partners in
growth as well… What better endorsement could we have...?
Over these three years, we have covered a vast subject-base with timely attention to critical
issues and concerns. But I am sure there must be many more topics that you would like to read
about… do let us know, so that we can plan our issues accordingly. Constructive feedbacks are
the backbone of any progressive media, and we constantly look for the same from our readers.
We look forward to the continual support and affection of the industry to grow together and take
the industry to the next level… Thanks again for your warm acceptance.
In this issue, we have some interesting articles beginning with a rundown on a developing product
category – ‘Workwear’. Not many realize that this category is not too difficult to handle, provided
some interventions are incorporated in the sewing lines. Some big- and medium-sized players in
this category explain the potential and challenges of working in the workwear category. The CEO
of Basic Apparels, a major success story in workwear manufacturing, shares shopfloor secrets.
Also in the spotlight is Silver Line Group, which has made Bangladesh proud by being the
country’s first vertically integrated shirt unit. We have many integrated denim units, but Silver
Line has taken the plunge to move up the value chain, setting an example for others to follow.
In our Buyer Segment, an exclusive interaction with Sudhir Nair, Country Manager, Connor
International Ltd. – Bangladesh Liaison Office, highlights the need for the industry to also look at
the small quantity business as the retail scenario worldwide is now moving towards more styles
in lesser quantities.

Deepak Mohindra
Editor-in-Chief

10 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


mindtree

m nd treei
L e a d i n g D i s c u s s i o n s

Bangladesh imports a lot of fabric and accessories from China, Hong Kong and other countries.
What are the difficulties at ground level in importing of fabric and trims? What can be a viable
and possible solution of the same? Have you ever tried to find a solution of this issue? Share your
experience with us.

M. Rezaul Alam Miru, Managing A big problem with imported fabrics fabrics from them, so they increase
Director, Galpex Limited  is the lead time, which is about 30 their prices by 10% to 15% vis-à-
We are now enjoying a three- days including transit and clearance vis other suppliers. These issues
stage GSP facility instead of a time, that buyers sometimes don’t impact our CM greatly and it’s we
single stage; this also includes allow us due to the shrinking lead who bear it and not the buyers.
importing of foreign fabrics. time. In that case we lose about I sincerely urge our Government
Basically, importing fabrics from 60 days including 30 days for to come forward and encourage
China and other countries is not production only to in-house the the procurement of fabrics locally
making a big difference in price fabric out of the total lead time for which it needs to support both
nowadays. Moreover, our locally of 90 days. the local and foreign investors
produced fabrics are now equally My suggestion is that the foreign to set up fabric manufacturing
competitive in terms of quality textile companies should make their units here. The Government will
vis-à-vis imported fabrics, but warehouse and dyeing unit including have to play a proactive role to
in terms of prices, we are not laboratory in Bangladesh under the ensure better infrastructure, which
competitive because besides the bonded warehouse license, so that includes availability of gas and
manufacturing cost, we also have they can move their fabric in RFD electricity; and providing land
to cover the insurance and inland (Results-Framework Document) form at a good price to encourage
transportation cost, which is an to the warehouse in Bangladesh and private and foreign investors so
additional cost of about US $ 10 per also dyeing it here to reduce the lead that they feel secured to invest
yard of fabric. and transit time. in Bangladesh.

M. A. Mannan, Managing Director,


Meek Sweater Ltd. 
Every year we are spending more
than US $ 5 billion to import yarn,
fabrics and trims from China,
Hong Kong and other countries
and to import these items we are
facing problems mainly due to the
delivery time, quality issues and
additional prices because of the
extended lead time. In context of
M. Rezaul Alam Miru M. A. Mannan
quality, the suppliers do not keep
their commitment, and as far as
“My suggestion is that the “I sincerely urge our
foreign textile companies pricing is concerned, once they Government to come
should make their realize how badly we need the forward and encourage
warehouse and dyeing fabric, they start quoting higher the procurement of fabrics
unit including laboratory prices by giving numerous reasons locally for which it needs
in Bangladesh under the which at times we cannot question to support both the local
bonded warehouse license, as we need to meet our deadlines and foreign investors to set
so that they can move their committed to the buyers. We up fabric manufacturing
fabric in RFD (Results- face this problem more with the units here. The Government
Framework Document) suppliers who are nominated by the will have to play a
form to the warehouse buyers as they fully know our plight proactive role to ensure
in Bangladesh.” that it’s mandatory for us to buy better infrastructure.”

12 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


mindtree

Md. Shahidullah Azim, Ashis Kumar Das,


Vice President, BGMEA  CEO, Aryatex Sourcing  We welcome
Although in the past Bangladesh We are procuring knitted fabrics your views
was largely dependent on from Bangladesh as there are
imported fabrics for RMG export, many knit composite factories Apparel Online has completed 3 years and is
but now the country is almost here; however from China we going strong... only due to your keen interest in
self-sufficient (95%) in knitted import high-end fancy and our stories. First, a big thank you to all of you...!
fabric and imports only 40% synthetic woven fabrics, pleated
of woven fabrics. In importing polyester, 100 per cent cotton, We have given coverage to a wide range of
fabrics from abroad, we do face polyester viscose and cotton topics – expansions, new products, technology,
some difficulties like the imported viscose. As of now, the total ‘green’ factories, compliance, sustainability,
fabrics sometimes do not meet requirement is of one million labour problems... You name it, and the chances
the importers’ specifications or metres of fabric per month. So far are that we may have covered the same in some
fulfil their requirements which I have never faced any problem
issue or the other.
create a lot of problems like back in fabric procurement from
and forth fabric replacement China as it takes four days to get We would like to know your views on why you
which causes either order fabric from China to Bangladesh. enjoy our magazine... We must have definitely
cancellation or stock lot. Though Fabric production lead time after missed out on some new and important
in these cases suppliers ought the approval takes maximum ‘topics’ or stories and there is always room
to take the responsibility but of four weeks. The transit time
for improvement... Please share and suggest
sometimes a few of them defy from the mill to Shanghai is of
also, especially those who do
what more we can do and cover to make your
three days; and 16 to 18 days
not have their local offices in transit time from Chittagong to favourite industry magazine more informative
Dhaka. Then, we have little to do Dhaka as it takes a few days for and useful.
to hold them responsible as the customs approval and also the
payment is made beforehand road transportation between 2012
and once they get the payments Chittagong and Dhaka at times
they do not bother about what as consumes 24 hours and if there
garment manufacturers we face. is some strike or hartal, then it
I think one of the solutions to this may take 4-5 days or even more.
problem can be setting up local So, if I may talk about a solution,
offices in Bangladesh by the fabric then it’s only about improving
suppliers so that the garment the infrastructure in terms of
manufacturers can approach better road connectivity between
them in person and explain them Dhaka and Chittagong along with 2013
the problems face to face. speedy customs approval.

2014

Md. Shahidullah Azim Ashis Kumar Das

“In importing fabrics from “So far I have never faced


abroad, we do face some any problem in fabric 2015
difficulties like the imported procurement from China as it
fabrics sometimes do not takes four days to get fabric
not meet the importers' from China to Bangladesh.
specifications or fulfil their Fabric production lead
requirements which create time after the approval
a lot of problems like back takes maximum of four
and forth fabric replacement weeks. The transit time
which causes either order from the mill to Shanghai
cancellation or stock lot.” is of three days; and 16 to
18 days transit time from Be a part of our latest discussions...
Post your comments on www.apparelresources.com
Chittagong to Dhaka.”

14 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


coverstory

Go For
Workwear
Fetch Higher FOBs With
Minimum Investment

W
How does a shirt manufacturer move hen working UK-based sourcing company
up the value chain without adding in dangerous which exclusively specializes in
cost for fine shirting fabrics or using environments, workwear clothing. Established in
where the 1948, Dimensions set up its office
high-end pressing and finishing
possibility of injury from in Dhaka in 2010 and is currently
machines for making dress shirts? How mechanical shock, heat, flames, sourcing products worth US $
does a bottom manufacturer move chemicals and electrical arcs is 45 million, which is 45% of the
up the value chain without investing a daily reality, safety workwear company’s global sourcing. “Knit
in washing equipments? The answer made with special fabric is the products is the largest category
to both these questions is ‘workwear best defence. Workwear clothing sourced from the country in terms
clothing’. While a shirt manufacturer can be broadly divided into three of volumes as we have majorly
can make shirts that are part of categories – uniforms, industrial shifted sourcing of T-shirts
clothing and protective clothing. and polo shirts from China
a complete uniform worn by a
Being the biggest category, the to Bangladesh. We are in the
waiter, pilot, security guard or an process of upgrading an existing
segment of uniforms includes
engineer, a bottom manufacturer vendor to produce seam sealed
outfits for hotels, airlines, police,
can make dungarees, bottoms security personnel, hospitals outerwear jackets with reflective
and shorts with special pockets and pharmaceutical industries. tapes, which we are currently
for holding tools and by just The category of industrial sourcing from China and such
moving into the category clothing includes engineered apparels are not being done by
a certain hike in the FOB shirts, dungarees and cargo many in the country and those
pants, required for doing tasks who are doing it are very highly
is assured. The reason
such as welding, carpentry, etc. priced,” shares Padam Vaish,
being, the manufacturing
The third and the most niche Country Manager, Dimensions
and testing parameters are Clothing Bangladesh.
category of workwear clothing
a notch higher than that of includes protective clothing such Dimensions works on contractual-
regular apparels because as boiler suits and apparels for basis with companies in sectors
workwear clothing has to fire fighters, which are made with such as hospitality, security,
withstand 8 to 9 hours of flame-retardant fabrics. Mostly, all logistics, finance, retail,
rigorous usage for at least the garments have anti-bacterial healthcare and utility services.
5 days in a week. Majorly and other similar finishes, while Through these contracts,
surface embellishments such as Dimensions takes note of the
manufactured by China and
embroidery and printing are only number of employees, future
India, workwear clothing has
required for making logos. recruitment plans, sizing and
also started gaining popularity
Claiming to source every product how often an employee needs a
in Bangladesh due to the rising
mentioned above but specializing uniform or workwear clothing,
wages in both the countries. in uniforms, Dimensions is a which helps the company in
To understand the product,
market and business of
workwear clothing, Apparel
Online spoke to one of the
biggest manufacturers of
workwear in Bangladesh, Basic
Apparels, and also to the biggest
workwear sourcing company
in Bangladesh, Dimensions,
along with some inputs from
other smaller players. Uniforms not only include high-end jackets with reflective tapes, but also knitted T-shirts for staff personnel

16 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


coverstory

forecasting its product mix same reason. But in the last


for manufacturing. As per the four years, my suppliers have
company’s website, it has shipped asked me to give them more
17 million products in 2013 alone, workwear orders as they don’t
including 5.8 million industrial want to do the regular apparels
workwear, 2.8 million shirts and anymore,” highlights Padam.
blouses, and 2.5 million tailored Equally significant is the fitting
clothing – the top three categories of the garments, which is tightly
for the company. Dimensions controlled by the UK office of
claims to dress 4 million workers Dimensions to the extent of
in UK alone, which is 13% of the supplying the patterns to the
UK’s total working population. manufacturers and QAs from
When talking of uniforms, it the Dhaka office are literally
includes the complete getup stationed in the vendors’
of headgear, shoes, outerwear factories throughout the year.
Moreover, complete assistance
and main uniform, all of which “Due to this bespoke nature of our business, the order
is prepared as a package for is given by technicians from the
quantities cannot be standardized and the size ratios vary
every employee of the company company’s office in UK in terms
of machinery, operator training,
drastically. Hence, skilled merchandisers are required
including employees with
manufacturing systems and even to handle workwear.” – Padam Vaish, Country Manager,
physical disabilities. “Due to
assurance is given for sourcing a Dimensions Clothing Bangladesh
this bespoke nature of our
business, the order quantities product from a vendor for a fixed
cannot be standardized and period of time.
Dimensions. “An outerwear jacket pant, any manufacturer making
the size ratios vary drastically. Dhaka-based Best Shirts is manufacturer can do workwear similar products for other
Hence, skilled merchandisers making most of the formal jackets by adding the necessary retailers can do the same. But for
are required to handle workwear uniforms, and Chittagong-based equipments required for reflective making niche products such as
and initially the manufacturers in companies Geebee Garments tape attaching and seam sealing. flame resistant protectivewear
the country were not interested and Timex Garments are Similarly, when making a dress and special reflective clothing,
in doing workwear due to the producing outerwear jackets for shirt, formal jacket or a dress one definitely needs a specialized

MAY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 17


coverstory

BASIC APPARELS
“Germany has a – Success story
good demand for of workwear
workwear, followed manufacturing
by the USA because
Although Ajay Agal was
heavy machinery
recruited as the CEO by Stefan
and automobile Pirker, Managing Director of
manufacturing is still the company for the workwear
booming in these project, Ajay shares the credit
countries. Moreover, for its success with Aplos
since these countries Global, a consultancy firm
are developed, no headed by Virender Goyal,
one works in the Ex-MD and Country Manager of
EPIC Group Bangladesh. “We
manufacturing sector
started working with Aplos in
without wearing August 2014, shortly before
workwear apparels. we started manufacturing
Our next target is the workwear bottoms. Since then
American market.” we have shipped more than
– Ajay Agal, CEO, 1 million pieces without any
Basic Apparels major safety issues,” shares
Ajay, who has previously worked
with EPIC Group as the COO for
manufacturing setup,” adds is also supplying caps to the 8 years.
Padam. Some other vendors of French Navy. “Presently, the flow The biggest change done in
Dimensions are BHIS Apparels, of workwear orders has declined the facility of Basic Apparels
Interlink Apparels, Anlima from Europe due to recession. was doubling the size of the
Group, Vertex Group and We recently started working sewing lines from 35 sewing
Shanin Corporation. with two workwear buyers from machines to 75 sewing
Another company with a similar Russia, a market for which we machines. The increase in
niche is Rasa Fashion, a buying are working for the first time. the number of machines was
office with a small factory of Since the importers cannot necessary because of the
125 sewing and 11 knitting open LC, they give 50% of the multiple operations and high
money upfront and 50% after SAM value of the industrial
machines, producing knitted
the completion of the order,” workwear apparels which starts
T-shirts as a part of workwear
adds Sultan. Due to the nature of from 35 minutes and can go
clothing. Established in 2008,
uniform business, replenishment up to 120 minutes in case of a
Rasa has supplied T-shirts to
accounts for a majority of Rasa boiler suit. Besides the SAM
companies such as Starbucks
Fashion’s sourcing. value, workwear clothing also
Coffee Company and is sourcing
From the experiences of presents challenges in terms of
workwear shirts, sweaters and
Dimensions and Rasa Fashion, stitch length and sewing threads
bottoms for companies such as
it seems that manufacturing because the usual SPI is 11
Phoenix Uniforms from 4 other
workwear requires a factory stitches per inch, and threads
factories in Gazipur. “We are
to have a flexible and mid- with different thickness are
capable of sourcing any kind
sized setup for handling the used as the needle and bobbin
of workwear clothing for our
style changeovers and small threads, respectively, with the
buyers and a recent addition to
quantities. But an exception to needle thread being thicker.
our product portfolio has been
caps as a part of workwear this model is Basic Apparels, The 1,000 sewing machines in
clothing. There are quite a lot of a casual bottom manufacturer the factory of Basic Apparels
cap manufacturing factories in with 1,000 sewing machines, has been divided into 12
Gazipur and the raw materials which has successfully converted sewing lines inclusive of part
required for cap manufacturing its factory into a specialised preparation and final assembly
are present in Bangladesh. In one workwear manufacturing lines, along with finishing and
shipment we shipped out 120,000 unit. “We are manufacturing final packing at the end of the
caps and due to the size of that industrial workwear for heavy line. “With the help of online
Industrial workwear includes
engineering and automobile packing, we do not get surprises
dungarees, bottoms and full-body order, the FOB rate per cap was
industries, carpenters, boiler at the time of shipment in terms
suits for mechanical activities such as just 75 cents,” shares Sultan
carpentry, welding, etc. suits and other such areas of of the quantity. There are no
Ahmed, Managing Director,
mechanical works. Such clothing missing pieces and even the
Rasa Fashion. With a turnover
of US $ 4 million, the company Contd. on page 20

18 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


coverstory

extra 1% fabric which is cut, in three steps, the operation


is converted into garment and can now be done in a single
offered to the buyers, enabling go wherein the panels with
us to have nearly 100% cut the tape inbetween are joined
to ship ratio,” explains Ajay. together through an overlock
Another intervention for certain machine and the tape is fed
efficiency improvement is the through a simple attachment.
employment of zero helpers “Due to such interventions,
– replaced not only by using we have reduced the pool of
automated sewing machines but sewing operations that require
also by working on the principle specialized training. Hence we
of industrial engineering for multi-skill a set of operators in
methods improvement and using very specific operations, while
innovative work aids. the rest of the sewing operators
Basic Apparels has gone require no formal training,”
for suitable automation shares Ajay, who claims that Panels with the tape in-between are joined together through an overlock machine and the tape is fed
due to such deskilling initiatives through a simple attachment, thereby saving two operations
that reduces the cycle time
of sewing operations while some helpers were successfully
keeping the flexibility of the upgraded to sewing operators.
sewing operator intact. For The present operator-efficiency
double-needle sewing, a double- is between 65% and 70%.
needle lockstitch machine Once operators surpass the
with a split needle bar was 70% efficiency mark, the
used. Due to the specialized company would plan to start
needle bar, the machine can giving incentives as it does not
also be used as a single-needle see value in giving the same
lockstitch machine, a feature before 70%.
which is useful in turning the There are 16 QCs in one
garment at pocket corners line – from inline to packing
and can even be used for because final packing is also a
single-needle operations. “The part of the sewing line. 7 QCs
kind of workwear currently are placed within and at the
being produced by us has end of the sewing line, 7 are
double-needle sewing almost placed within and at the end Bartacks are very critical to the quality of industrial workwear clothing and one such bottom being
everywhere and hence the manufactured by Basic Apparels had 52 bartacks for ensuring safety
of the finishing line and the
utilization of the double-needle
remaining two are the roaming
lockstitch machines is 110%.
QCs, who randomly check the
But it would not be the case
output of sewing operators. The
after 6 months when buyers
inline QCs are responsible for
will place orders for industrial
checking the sewing defects
workwear with minimal double-
whereas the end-line QCs check
needle work, as the demand
the overall look and getup of
keeps on shifting from single- to
the garment.
double-needle and double- to
single-needle sewing every The most stringent aspect of
season,” highlights Ajay. Due to the quality checking is sewing
continuous high needle work, margins and there is no negative
all the sewing machines are tolerance in this case. So after
equipped with large capacity the sewing of every patch
bobbins and automatic pocket, a QC is there to check
bobbin winders. the same as the whole garment
can be rejected because of this,
Some of the critical sewing
and Basic Apparels claims to A double-needle lockstitch machine with a split needle bar can also be used as a single-needle
operations have been deskilled lockstitch machine, a feature which is useful in turning the garment at pocket corners.
drastically with the use of have maintained a rejection rate
work aids and attachments of almost 0.5%.
developed by the company. One As the goods are passed on to the auditor will speak to the the CEO. The company has
such intervention was done the end-line packing, an auditor QC of the line. If the lot fails for defined its KPI for DHU for
to optimize the operation in picks up 100 pieces from the the 2nd time, the auditor will every operation at 8%, which
which a reflective tape was lot randomly and audits the speak to the Quality Manager is updated on an hourly
to be sewn in-between the same at 2.5 AQL. If the 1st lot is and in case of a third instance, basis, to keep a check on the
side seam. Previously done rejected in the AQL inspection, the auditor will directly go to quality performance.

MAY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 19


coverstory

lack of understanding of the


process engineering required for
“Presently, the flow of doing the value addition. They
workwear orders has end up sending the goods by air,
thereby diminishing the already
declined from Europe
low margins.”
due to recession.
We recently started Further highlighting the
advantages of workwear
working with two
clothing, especially in context of
workwear buyers fluctuating markets, Ajay states,
from Russia, a “It is the normal practice of
market for which we replenishment orders being put
are working for the on hold due to some slowdown
first time. Since the in the market. When the same
importers cannot happens in case of high-fashion
open LC, they give garments, either the apparels
are sold to other buyers or in
50% of the money
other market at very low prices
upfront and 50% after
or the apparels are bought back
the completion of by the buyers at lower FOB rates.
the order.” – Sultan Normally, this situation never
Ahmed, Managing happens in case of workwear
Director, Rasa because industries and
Fashion technician do not stop buying
workwear products during
recession or a slow market.”
Contd. from page 18
has special safety pockets in one works in the manufacturing Workwear also presents
ergonomic locations to keep work sector without wearing workwear advantages in terms of
tools. In a workwear, garment apparels. Our next target is the standardization in product
safety is of the highest priority, if American market and even India styling and consistent volume-
any component of the workwear is a big market for workwear business around the year. These
comes off, tears or rips, while the due to the presence of various aspects help in building factory
person is working, then brands specialized manufacturing efficiencies and streamlining
have to pay hefty claims for industries,” elaborates Ajay, manufacturing systems because
that,” points out Ajay Agal, CEO, an industry veteran with 25 the manpower is attuned to work
Basic Apparels, a subsidiary years of experience of working in a certain manner, minimizing
of Merchantex Co. BD. Ltd., in Bangladesh, Vietnam and the delays and quality issues due
which is a 27-year-old buying & India. Most of these products are to less style-changeovers. “We
sourcing organization sourcing retailed at stores and are also have been able to set up sewing
from Bangladesh and is owned by sold directly to industries. The lines with on-line finishing and
Stefan Pirker, Managing Director FOB of industrial workwear being packing at the end of the sewing
of the company. sourced from Bangladesh varies lines because there is no washing
Basic Apparels developed the from US $ 10 to 25 based on required in workwear clothing,”
factory for manufacturing fabrication, style and volume. adds Ajay.
workwear dungarees, trousers, When asked why Basic Apparels
Critical to success...
shorts, boiler suits, refinery suits, chose to manufacture workwear
chemical industry suits, etc. The clothing for moving up the chain, Mechanical resistance, colour
reason behind Basic Apparel’s instead of going for high-fashion fastness to washing and
successful venture into workwear products with value addition in sunlight and comfort are the
manufacturing was the ready terms of printing, embroidery or most important elements of
workwear orders from its existing washing, Ajay replied, “Although quality standards of a workwear
set of German buyers for whom the consumption of workwear product. But at times fabrics are
the company was making regular clothing is low compared to required to have properties such
bottoms, and these buyers were value-added apparels, the as thermal insulation, thermal
sourcing huge workwear clothing replenishment business is high stability, resistance to chemicals
in good volumes from India, in case of workwear because and non-flammability, when used
China, and Cambodia. “Germany it is worn more often by people for making a specialized product.
has a good demand for workwear, working in various industries The quality of the workwear
Caps and T-shirts embroidered with a followed by the USA because and its purchase is not optional.” clothing starts from the fabric,
company’s logo are also being sourced heavy machinery and automobile He goes on to add, “Presently in which is majorly sourced from
from Bangladesh due to the country’s
competence in both the products manufacturing is still booming in Bangladesh, the companies which China and is most of the times
these countries. Moreover, since are doing value-added items are a woven blend of polyester and
these countries are developed, no incurring losses because of the cotton. “For industrial workwear,

20 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


coverstory

the fabric composition is mostly buyers do not change their


65% cotton and 35% polyester vendors often and even the fabric
heavy twills, which is heavier supplier needs to reserve the
than the same used for regular dyeing recipes to ensure the
clothing,” shares Ajay. Basic dyeing output remains consistent.
Apparels sources all the fabric All the above criticalities are dealt
from buyer-approved vendors at the sampling stage wherein
in China and QAs have been not only the complete technical
stationed by the company in specifications of a garment are
the units of fabric vendors. defined in terms of the location
Dimensions has a much more of bartacks, the higher SPI in
diverse vendor-base for fabrics, specific areas and other critical
sourcing fabrics from China, to quality aspects along with
Malaysia, Thailand and even wearer trails are conducted
some premium fabrics from before developing the techpacks.
UK and Italy. The company Hence the manufacturers are
does procure some fabrics like given clear instructions to which
polyester-blended knits from they have to adhere. “Workwear
Bangladesh. “Since we just apparels have higher seam
cannot compromise on the fabric margins because seams must be
quality, we source all the fabrics of greater strength, compared to
and threads ourselves, and then regular apparels. Hence garments
supply it to all our manufacturers, can be rejected on the basis of
because a vendor might go for inadequate seam margins. These
a fabric that is 2 cent cheaper aspects need to be understood
and compromise on the quality fully before manufacturing
of the fabric. We also do rigorous workwear because safety of the
testing of the fabrics,” adds wearer is a top priority,” shares
Padam. True to the nature of the Ajay. One of the workwear
category, Dimensions claims to bottoms manufactured by Basic
have sourced some unique fabrics Apparels had 52 bartacks
and accessories for workwear for safety.
clothing, such as glow in the
Being a veteran in the business
dark fabric and an unbreakable
of workwear, Dimensions defines
sewing thread.
the key to success in workwear
The end products have to category to the ability to cater
withstand stringent laboratory to the needs of the customers
tests to ensure the performance within 48 hours and manufacture
and endurance of the apparel customized products for a
when the wearer is working. For user or as per a company’s
example, colour fastness of a needs. For making deliveries
normal apparel is tested for one to customers in the UK within
wash, but in case of a workwear 48 hours, the company has set
product the colour fastness would up a warehouse spread over
be tested for up to 10 washes. 520,000 sq. feet in Derbyshire,
Usually, a pilling test is done at England, which has a stock of
8,000 revolutions, but in case of 8 million pieces of garments,
a workwear product it is done headgear and footwear at any
at 14,000 revolutions. “Till now given point of time. Talking about
we have not allowed any apparel innovation, Padam recalls,
manufacturer to do the testing of “We made shirts for a cinema
our products and we have tied up company as a part of the waiters’
with Intertek for doing the same. uniforms that had collars made
Most important to the testing with fabric which glows in dark
procedure is the wash durability as they wanted the waiters to
test and for that testing norms standout while they serve the
are in place to make sure that the people watching movies in a
workwear apparel performs as theatre.” Having grown beyond
per norms,” adds Padam. Similar UK to Holland, Ireland and
standards have been defined USA, Dimensions has increased
for the consistency in quality, its garment sourcing from
look and colours of the uniforms Bangladesh by 140% in the last
produced by a manufacturer. Due two years, from 2.5 million to 6
to the same reason, workwear million garments. 

MAY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 21


buyerblog

Connor
tagged by Ethisphere as one of the
world’s most ethical companies
for the fourth consecutive year
‘Bangladesh needs to increase its efficiency level’

Leveraging 65 years of experience in buying


operations, Connor Group, which is purely a
service-oriented company, claims to be one of the
pioneers in the culture of being an organized buying
house. Connor neither takes financial positions in
suppliers nor in the goods it sources on behalf of its
clients which include some of the most significant
brands, specialty and department stores, catalogue
companies and importers in North America, Europe,
Latin America, and Australia.

M
anaging the global sourcing
requirements of over 60 companies
worldwide and offering a completely
transparent supply chain with no hidden costs,
Connor encourages its clients to visit the
factories, consolidators and material suppliers
with whom it works on their behalf. The
Bangladesh sourcing office was opened in 2009,
however it has been sourcing from the country Sudhir Nair, Country Manager,
Connor International Ltd. –
for quite a long period through its India office.
Bangladesh Liaison Office
“This country has great potential, but one of the
basic problems encountered with the changing
machines in a line and sometimes even more,”
business scenario, has been the Minimum
comments Sudhir, who feels that due to low
Order Quantities (MOQs) still being very high.
efficiencies, the cost of manufacturing charges
Also, in the global market, the average order does get affected and sometimes turns out to be
size is shrinking because every single retailer non-competitive in comparative terms. Going
needs to make his store have very diverse further, Sudhir points out that the man-machine
and dynamic products so that he has the “The mentality
ratio is also high in Bangladesh. “Just because
maximum footprint,” avers Sudhir Nair, is now
they have cheap labour, they put 2-3 people on
Country Manager, Connor International Ltd.- a single machine. When the client’s technical
changing as
Bangladesh Liaison Office, who joined Connor directors visit factories, they do ask that why so the vendors
to start the Bangladesh office. many people are present in the cutting room or have started
Having a good understanding of Bangladesh, in the lines, giving an indication about why they to understand
Sudhir feels that due to the dependence of are not able to get sharper prices,” he states. that if they
apparel manufacturers on low labour wages, On the other hand, Bangladesh is strong at bulk are not
the overall efficiencies have suffered and a lot quantities and has been and will continue to be going to work
of business is being lost to competitors such a preferred destination for the same.
on smaller
as Indonesia, Vietnam and Cambodia. He also Agreeing to the fact that things are changing at MOQs, they
informs that things are now changing in the the vendor’s end, like some of the factories are
country. “The mentality is also changing, as the
would not be
now going for lean production or implementing
vendors have also started to understand that ERP software to manage production; trying
able to bag
by not working with smaller order quantities to bring in transparency, however the pace of orders for
with better line efficiencies, etc., they would not change is still very slow. “A lot of owners are value-added
be able to bag orders of value-added products. also dictated by their production heads who are products.”
Generally factories do have 60 to 70 machines serving them for 20-25 years. These production
in a line for bottoms which compared to India heads become bottlenecks, as they often resist
is high that has 40 to 45 machines in a line. In new systems, claiming that the efficiency will go
shirts, India has 25 to 30 machines depending down, and thereby manipulate the owners with
on the style in a line whereas here it is 40 to 45 their arguments. There have been situations

22 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


buyerblog

“We are strong in IT and our systems are one of the finest as well. I
can say this because I have worked with many renowned buying
offices. Our systems are all about transparency and integrity
which are the core values and fundamental building blocks of the
company.” – Sudhir Nair, Country Manager, Connor International
Ltd.-Bangladesh Liaison Office

of losses incurred due to this time associations, especially in which are the core values and
behaviour. There is a frank a country like Bangladesh. You fundamental building blocks of
exchange with owners that unless do face issues in performance the company,” states Sudhir. Connor is looking
everybody looks into breaking levels in a business relationship Maintaining steady growth, the at sourcing
free from the blind dependency if you keep on bringing new company is trying to work on the jute items from
on production heads, efficiencies vendors frequently unless you
will never improve,” points out start a new product category.
introduction of jute items from Bangladesh;
Bangladesh, “There is an interest however,
Sudhir. And as everybody is in a The first season is always tough in the jute products, but we
time bound trade, the suppliers as sometimes it becomes a three- have to think about compliance
compliance is
do feel helpless as they do not way new relationship – a new aspects also; the setups where a major issue
want to rock the boat, as taking client, a new vendor and us... these products are made are for this product.
away a production head does that is the recipe of a disaster.” not organized factories as there Though being
create issues of migration as well. Following the proverb of not are handicraft items involved. a 100% green
The industry is constantly setting putting all the eggs in one basket, We also have to look into the product, it is
the bar of standards high and the Sudhir believes that one needs finishing aspect of a product
entrepreneurs need to become
made in villages
to have backups, but backups when compared to Thailand or
more proactive than reactive, and it becomes
created should not stagnate Vietnam. It’s a green product but
he muses. or dilute the growth strategies as it’s being made in villages, it
a tough task to
Irrespective of some of the with the existing ones unless it becomes a tough task to monitor monitor effective
challenges, Connor’s business is is a business issue, as it needs effective compliance there,” compliance
progressing well in Bangladesh. to be significant for everyone concludes Sudhir. there.
No doubt, the country has in the relationship. “You have
enormous potential, however to be meaningful to your clients
the very optimistic target set by and your vendors and you have
BGMEA to touch US $ 50 billion to create a balance. If the total
mark by 2021 looks a bit bleak capacity is 100,000 pieces, it is
with the ongoing political unrest not advisable to put an order
and other issues like labour of 90,000 pieces just to them.
unrest, infrastructure challenges Anything beyond 30% to 40% is a
of gas, electricity, port & road, dangerous preposition but then
and the fast changing scenario exceptions are always there,”
in the global business,” observes he remarks.
Sudhir, who has 22 years of Connor is known for IT
work experience. integration in its working
systems and the innovative
Vendor policy... platform interface permits
From Bangladesh, Connor is Connor’s staff, clients and
sourcing both apparels and home suppliers to access order’s
textiles. One of the additions information in a secure manner
to the product category over anytime, anywhere. Quality Though the jute products made in Bangladesh are quite appealing; however, finishing aspects are still
the last two years has been assurance is a paperless activity. a question mark when compared to Thailand or Vietnam
the ceramic products. With its The company constantly updates
policy, the company prefers its information system to
working with smaller number accommodate its clients’ evolving
of vendors. Justifying his point, requirements and its global
Sudhir says, “We try to get the network of offices is seamlessly
relationship to a strategic level, linked and coordinated through
thereby reducing the vendor-base its IT infrastructure. “We are
so that we have better controls; strong in IT and our systems are
the relationship matures over a one of the finest as well, I can
period of time and vendors see us say this because I have worked
as responsible business partners with many renowned buying
because of the increase in trade. offices. Our systems are all about The company is sourcing both apparels and home textiles. One of the additions to the product
It really works well to have long transparency and integrity, category over the last two years has been ceramic products

MAY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 23


industrypulse

Time to Strengthen Middle Management

F
amous for investing in professionals, who demand hefty
As the garmenting business the latest machines and packages, from countries such as
technology, Bangladeshi India, Sri Lanka, and Philippines.
is moving towards greater
entrepreneurs are Salahuddin Kasem Khan,
professionalism, strengthening the
gradually realising that as they Managing Director & CEO,
middle management should be the are moving towards automation, AK Khan & Co. Ltd. shared that
key focus in the coming time, as their focus for productivity needs according to his estimations a
they need to take the responsibility to shift from operators to build a whopping amount of US $ 3 billion
for the execution of an strong mid-management. “Almost per annum is being paid as package
organization’s vision and strategy. every apparel manufacturer is just to the Indian expats. “I think
The emerging issues that factories looking at producing value-added one of the reasons why India is
are now facing are shortage of products, which generally require doing so well is because of the vision
a lot of coordination and foresight of statesmen like its first Prime
skilled workforce, demand for
for ensuring on-time delivery, and Minister, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru
fast turnaround times, decreasing
a company can do the same only by who envisaged the importance of
margins, higher turnovers and low having a strong middle management creating the IIM’s & IIT’s, which
awareness of workers regarding with the capability to handle gave the country a sound managerial
their rights and responsibilities. small order quantities,” reasons base for the growth that one can see
Each of these issues leads to Sudhir Nair, Country Manager, in India today. Unfortunately, we
decrease in productivity and Connor International Ltd. The have not been able to develop that
factory performance, which a inability of Bangladeshi middle culture and we are totally dependent
factory owner cannot resolve managers to take responsibility on expats,” remarks Khan who is
alone without an effective has forced the 2nd largest apparel also the Co-Chairman of the EC
manufacturer to rely on foreign National Skills Development Council
middle management. A few top
companies in Bangladesh are
working towards strengthening
their middle management “I think one of the
reasons why India
by inducting management
is doing so well is
professionals; however,
because of the vision
there is still a long way to of statesmen like its
go. Team Apparel Online first Prime Minister,
discussed this issue with many Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru
entrepreneurs and CEO’s of who envisaged the
various companies to understand importance of creating
why the middle management is the IIM’s & IIT’s, which
still a weak link in the country gave the country a
and what steps they are taking to sound managerial base.”
Salahuddin Kasem Khan,
strengthen the same... Managing Director & CEO,
AK Khan & Co. Ltd.

24 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


industrypulse

(NSDC), which is headed by the my major focus has been on


Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina. information exchange with our
Khan is now looking at opening UK office, under which I have
a management institute in made a lot of procedures and
Chittagong by collaborating systems both within our office
with institutes such as Wharton in Bangladesh and also at our
to give an opportunity to vendor’s end. People tend to
Bangladeshi nationals to attend write books when the job can
world-class management be done by writing a line, so
courses. He is also positive presently I have been engaged in
of a strong collaboration with breaking down and simplifying
Indian institutes as well. “Skill e-mails, making my people do
development doesn’t stop at the relentless follow-ups with the
shopfloor, it has to go right to the vendors not over e-mails, but
over phone and recently we have Gazi Mahbubul Alam, Humayun Rashid,
top,” avers Khan. Director, Mahmud Group Managing Director & CEO, Energypac Fashion
increased the use of Skype for
The redemption of Bangladesh’s
our interactions with our vendors
middle management not only
and with our UK office as per a
lies in their own hands but also
weekly conference call schedule,”
in the hands of owners and
explains Stephen. Due to such
entrepreneurs who employ them
small-small interventions, the
because owners still do not want
company has eased out issues
to depend on managers.“Earlier
that used to arise in sourcing of
the scales were small, but now
fabric and other raw materials.
the factories are getting bigger
“Most of the companies are
and it is increasingly becoming
swarmed with expats, but we
obvious to the owners that they
have to understand that you
cannot handle everything by
can’t have an expat at every
themselves, so it has become point as you have to train local
important to have competent people sooner or later. They have
people in-between,” observes got the skills and the education,
Rahul Chhabra, General you just have to take things
Manager-Bangladesh & in your hands and train them
Stephen Woolley, Sudhir Nair,
Country Manager, Trutex Bangladesh Country Manager, Connor International Ltd.
India, s.Oliver Overseas Ltd. correctly,” believes Stephen.
A major reason for the lack of
trust and dependability on the The good news is that the
critical importance of middle
middle management is because 1,300 to US $ 3,000 per annum companies have put in a lot
managers is being recognized,
of the high job migration rate on the initiative. “We strongly of efforts to create a strong
and organizations are
and minimal training activities believe that training is a mid-management in all its
providing more opportunities
in the industry. “The head of a continuous process and that by departments. Sharing his views
for their development. “Middle
department should continuously providing training to our middle on middle management, Gazi
management is the heart of a
train and groom his team. management we will find an Mahbubul Alam, Director,
company’s operations, and is
Rotation of staff and cross optimal solution in building the Mahmud Group says, “It’s
also instrumental in earning
functions can give you many capacity of our labour force, very important for us to have
profits for the organization. The
surprises. A merchandiser can hence strengthening our overall proactive mid-level managers.
companies can fall or face huge
give the accounts department a business performance,” says We are sending our middle
problems due to a ‘misleading’
lot of inputs on costing. Similarly, Humayun Rashid, Managing management to attend various
middle management which is
a production personnel can Director & CEO, Energypac training programmes conducted
a critical link between the top
impart product(ion) knowledge Fashion, who is looking at by Bureau Veritas which is
management and the workers.
to merchandisers, and a fabric sending his mid-level managers helping them a lot to upgrade
It’s very important for them to
sourcing person can look at the to Sri Lanka, Cambodia, and their managerial skills.” Adding
take responsibilities and feel
problems faced by the production Vietnam for hands on training further, A H Aslam, Managing
that they are accountable for any
team due to flaws in fabric,” in production, compliance and Director, Crony Group states,
shortfall,” shares M. M. Nazrul
believes PiyushVyas, COO, maintenance, so that they can “We are proud of the fact that no
Islam, Dy. Managing Director,
BD Designs, who is a strong manage and understand all the expat is working in our company
Manvill Styles, who strongly
believer of on the job training. operations of a garment unit. as of now and our last foreign
believes in training of the middle
One area for effective on the management and invests in Our recent visit to Mahmud recruitment was of 6 Sri Lankan
job training was recognized the same by sponsoring his Group and Crony Group technicians for streamlining the
by Stephen Woolley, Country middle management to attend convinced us that there is manufacturing system, but now
Manager, Trutex Bangladesh, workshops on management serious movement in the the same is being taken care
“In the first 7 months of taking and leadership building twice industry to develop the middle by the people who were trained
charge as the Country Manager, a year, spending between US $ management as both the under them.”

MAY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 25


exporterinsight

New entrant Zas Apparels focuses


on compliance and automation
Expansions have been a continuous process in Bangladesh and as existing companies continue to take a
bigger pie of the booming apparel exports, new entrants in the apparel industry are struggling for a foothold.
While the existing apparel manufacturers have already capitalized the return on investment, and by investing
in capacities they can offer more competitive costing, new entrants are still seeking for basic break-even
points. Acknowledging the realities and defying all odds, Afzalul Alam, Managing Director, Zas Apparels
established the company about 2 years ago with a state-of-the-art factory in Narayanganj. “We established
the factory in the year when the Rana Plaza disaster happened. We looked at the opportunity that was
created for safe, compliant and efficient apparel factories,” reasons Afzalul Alam.

Updated on quality issues, Zas


Apparels with 65 machines per line
uses only 15 helpers in a sewing
line and has deployed 5 quality
checkers per sewing line along with
one line controller, who is not only
the supervisor but also the roaming
quality checker. Another distinction
of the unit is the installation of
RO plants at each factory for
providing clean drinking water, as
approved by relevant authorities
for the workers. “It is the least we
can do to take care of the health
of our workers as their consistent
presence is necessary for the
smooth running of the production
lines and meeting the delivery
dates,” points out Afzalul.
A successful family-run venture: Afzalul Alam, Managing Director (centre) with Sadain Bin Mahboob, Director
(left) and Zakirul Alam, Director, Zas Apparels (right) A clear thinker, Afzalul is very
sure why he wanted to set-up
a plant to manufacture woven

A
apparels. “If we go in for a knit
dynamic leader, Afzalul who in manufacturing non-denim apparel factory, we will have to
ventured into the apparel bottoms for the European market establish a composite setup to
industry in 1993 as a small and also has plans for producing match the average market costing,”
accessories trading house, now shirts from the same setup, for reasons Afzalul bluntly. Though a
runs an accessories division under which 170 sewing machines new entrant in garmenting, Zas
the group Mawla Wings with an would soon be added. Plans are Apparels is not sub-contracting
annual turnover of US $ 12 million, also there to add a washing and for any big apparel manufacturer,
manufacturing everything from embroidery department along with thanks to its relationship with
buttons and labels to tags and an ETP plant. The highlights of international buyers and importers
laces. The company also has a Zas Apparels’ setup are the latest due to its accessories business. “We
buying office called Fashion Mine machines from Juki, such as the are catering to European, Italian,
that generates annual revenue of lockstitch sewing machines with French and Australian buyers, and
US $ 14 million. “We have also built an integrated control panel, pocket the Indian brand Reliance Trends
our new button manufacturing welting machines and MEB series has also started sourcing from us,”
facility, which is on the ground of eyelet buttonholing machines. shares Afzalul, who is looking at
floor of this unit and the total “Investment in technology is a part 25% growth in the coming year but
investment in the whole project was of the sales pitch of our company. is confident of doubling the growth
US $ 6.4 million (BDT 50 crore),” We might not be able to reduce if the political turmoil settles down.
informs Afzalul. our price after a certain extent but In the accessories division, a poly
With a setup of around 300 sewing the quality of sewing will never be bag manufacturing unit is also
machines, Zas Apparels specializes compromised,” adds Afzalul. being setup.

26 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


bangladeshcanvas

Silver Line Group makes Bangladesh proud with


bangladeshSnips country's first vertically integrated shirt unit
Industry demands re-look on
Indo-Bangla textile trade
Indian textile and apparel
N ews on new factories in apparel
manufacturing does not attract much
attention from the industry because of its
expansion plans on hold because of the
non-availability of new gas connections. “We
are still not getting gas and our facilities
sector urged the Union already burgeoning nature. However, when are running on electricity. But we will have
Textiles Ministry to re- a company establishes a shirting fabric to look for an alternate source of energy
look into the existing manufacturing plant, the industry celebrates such as solar energy because we don’t know
trade agreements with because every new non-denim woven fabric till when the gas problem will be solved,”
Bangladesh pertaining to manufacturing plant brings Bangladesh one shares Salim. However, the company already
textiles to ensure a balance step closer to becoming self-reliant in woven has interventions in place for minimizing
in commerce between the fabric. Contributing to the effort, Silver Line its energy consumption. It has Toyota
two nations. As of now, Group has set up its state-of-the-art shirting JAT810 air jet looms, equipped with a new
48 textile items, including fabric unit in 2013, which can produce 36 weft insertion system, which enables 20%
finished garments from million metres of fabric annually at full reduction in air consumption compared to
Bangladesh, are being sold capacity. “Bangladesh has set up enough the previous models.
in India without any duty capabilities for knit fabric manufacturing The loom utilizes less air for weft insertion
following the free trade and processing, and even for denim fabrics due to an improved air stream angle and
agreement signed between to a certain extent but we are still dependent the optimized shape of the reed’s tunnel
the two countries. on China and India for woven non-denim allows the sub-nozzle to be located closer to
Prabhu Damodaran, fabrics. My aim was to not just manufacture the reed, thereby preventing the air stream
Secretary of Texpreneurs fabrics but to do the same in a setup similar from scattering. The company has also
Forum says, “This disparity to the infrastructure of the mills in these installed a heat recovery system capable of
will affect the domestic saving US $ 5,100, 500,000 litres of water,
garment producers/ 40,500 cubic metres of natural gas and
suppliers, as China too even reducing the carbon emission by 60+
is using the trade route tonnes annually. Paradoxically, the heat
through Bangladesh to recovery system which can save so much
dump their products.” The costs US $ 3,000 only. “We would have a
Government should use the certain edge over other textile companies
diplomatic route to convince in terms of efficient utilization of resources
Bangladesh to reduce the because all the machines and technologies
duty on yarn and fabrics were bought with an idea to have energy
sourced on large scale and water efficiency at the centre,”
from India. points out Raashid Ashraf Khan, CEO
of Silver Composite Textile Mills, who
was recruited specifically to give shape to
Global buyers see weak links
Salim’s monumental expansion plans. The
in garment supply chain of
M.A.H Salim, Managing Director, Silver Line Group company has a fabric and yarn testing lab
Bangladesh
with all the equipment from the UK-based
Verisk Maplecroft, a risk James Heal and only companies such as
assessment firm, estimates countries,” states M.A.H Salim, Managing
Arvind have such a lab.
that some US $ 4 billion – Director, Silver Line Group, sharing his
vision with Apparel Online. The fabric plant has been set up in the
through loss and unfulfilled
same premises that house the spinning
orders since the beginning Set up in 2003 as a spinning unit, Silver Line
unit and where the new garmenting facility
of 2015 – has hit the Group established Silver Composite Textile
for making dress shirts, which is the most
Bangladesh’s garment Mills in an area of 70 acres with 129 looms
recent investment of the Silver Line Group,
industry badly as a result and capacities for yarn & fabric dyeing,
is coming up. At full capacity the garmenting
of enforced strikes and warping, singeing, desizing, bleaching,
unit will have four floors, each having 16
transport blockades that mercerisation, printing, sanforising and
lines with 58 sewing machines in each line,
have brought country’s micro-sanding. Plans are there to have a
but as of now only one floor is operational.
export supply chain to halt. total of 225 looms, but the same will be done
Focused at manufacturing dress shirts,
in phases based on the demand. Presently
“The customs department the setup has 800+ sewing machines from
specializing in yarn dyed fabrics, the
is considered extremely Juki, finishing equipment from Veit and
company has plans for replicating the same
corrupt and there are spreader from Gerber. Highlight of the
in solid and printed fabrics. Silver Line has
frequent reports of border company’s shirt manufacturing operations
already started catering to Indian, Japanese,
officials using their positions is the unique inline material movement
Russian and European buyers sourcing
to manipulate tariffs on system devised by Nihal Ratnayake,
from Bangladesh.
imports and exports, as Consultant, Silver Composite Textile Mills
well as to delay or expedite The real achievement lies in establishing (Garmenting Division), who is working
processing at ports,” it said. a fabric unit with significant capacity in a towards reducing the number of machines
time when every textile company has put per line from 58 to 47.

28 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


bangladeshcanvas

The company has a fabric and yarn testing lab with all the equipment from the UK-based James Heal

Presently specializing in yarn dyed fabrics, the company has plans for replicating the same in solid
and printed fabrics

The company started with the conventional


single long sewing lines with feeding from
the front and output at the end. In the next
phase, the lines were divided into two parts At full capacity,
with newly created lines facing opposite the garmenting
directions and the in-line material flows in unit will have
U-shape. In the present layout, the lines four floors, each
have again been divided as part preparation having 16 lines
lines and final assembly lines but each part with 58 sewing
preparation line is placed adjacent to the machines in
final assembly area where that same part is every line, but
being attached to the final garment. Hence as of now only
the in-line material flow is lateral which one floor is
means that pieces are passed on through
operational.
side-ways direction to the adjacent sewing
Focused at
line; for example, pocket preparation is
manufacturing
being done in a separate line but is adjacent
to the pocket attachment operations. “With
dress shirts,
such a feeding system, we have been able
the setup has
to reduce the transportation time further, 800+ sewing
hence reducing the throughput time and machines from
increasing the output of every line,” explains Juki, finishing
Nihal, who also has plans to convert the equipment
centralized finishing department to an end from Veit and
of the line finishing system and allocate spreader from
one finishing line to handle the output Gerber.
of 5-6 sewing lines. One small finishing
production line will however be kept to
handle urgent styles.

MAY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 29


bangladeshcanvas

Review: Intertextile Shanghai – Spring Edition 2015


bangladeshSnips Bangladesh, a major focus market for yarn manufacturers
32 units shut post
ILO's inspection
During ILO-monitored
factory inspection,
industry authorities closed
32 factories – failing in
their architectural design,
power supply and fire
safety system. As per the
report of the organization,
30 industries have been The event recorded the distinction of being the highest ever attended Intertextile Shanghai – Spring edition
registered in the ‘Better
Work Bangladesh’
project which is financed
and monitored by the T he National Exhibition and Convention
Centre – though a new venue on the
outskirts of Shanghai – attracted much
sustainable fibres. One of the leaders in
sustainable fibres, Lenzing, launched a
new micro fibre for knitting. “We have seen
International Finance
Corporation and the ILO. criticism as many felt that the huge complex a measurable increase in the demand for
It also shared that more was still not ready to hold a show of this cellulose fibre and speciality fibres and
than seven lakh apparel magnitude…, yet the event recorded the retailers are now driving the market
workers have taken the distinction of being the highest ever towards environment-friendly options,”
training so far on health attended Intertextile Shanghai – Spring said Christina Kreuzwieser, Lenzing’s
care and safety issues. edition ever. According to official records, Head of Marketing Communication. She
more than 62,000 trade visitors from 88 was very happy at the quality visitation and
The inspections have been
countries and regions, including China, felt that by combining fairs in a concurrent
going on under an NTP
came to source the latest apparel fabrics event attracts more quality customers. “I
pact (owners-workers-
and accessories from 2,637 exhibitors think the buyers who come here are looking
Government), initiated by
representing 24 countries and regions. for quality products,” she added.
the Accord and Alliance, This was a major jump from the last
Bangladesh Government Europe was well represented at the fair
spring edition of 40,214 visitors and 1,469
and ILO. in the ever-popular Salon Europe where
exhibitors, respectively.
around 180 suppliers of premium fabrics
While the fabric section was dominated and accessories including 11 trend
2 per cent incentives for by Chinese players, the yarn section saw forecasters, the Milano Unica Pavilion from
apparel units outside EPZs many players from India and Pakistan Italy, the Portugal Pavilion, the Germany
The Government of showcasing not only basic commodity zone, and the France and Premium Wool
Bangladesh is likely to cotton yarn, but also some mélange and zones were the major attractions. The area
finalize the Export Policy dyed yarn with different finishes. As was cordoned off and entrance was the
2015-18 with a provision expected, sustainability was a major prerogative of the exhibitors. But it was the
for 2 per cent special theme running through the fair and many Chinese mills that surprised and attracted
incentives for the apparel companies claimed to be working on visitors with innovations. “Earlier the
factories against their Chinese mills were known for good quality,
exports to help them huge volumes, but standard products with
become compliant. Only little innovation. But now we see many
the apparel factories mills from China giving innovations almost
situated outside the at par with the European mills. This trend
Export Processing Zones has picked up in the last five years,” says
(EPZs) would enjoy the Harish Bindra, Manager Merchandising,
facility, according to the Norwest Industries, and Bangladesh.
draft policy. The policy Bindra was in Shanghai especially looking
will also target exports for new fabric sources for his product
worth US $ 50 billion development team.
via capitalizing on the
markets of the three Pakistani mills eye
Asian economic giants. Farrukh Nawaz, MD and Faraz Ahmed Malik, Director of Global Textile Networks (Pakistan) Bangladeshi markets…
Commerce Ministry At the yarn section, a number of
in a meeting with the “There is no real competition between India
Pakistani mills were offering coarse
stakeholders finalized and Pakistan, even though both countries are
yarn for denim weaving. “While India is
the draft policy and it is looking at the same markets, because the product specializing in finer counts and better
expected to be sent to the specializations are different and also we are more quality yarn, Pakistani mills have found
cabinet for approval soon. cost-competitive in coarser counts.” – Faraz Ahmed greater acceptance in fabrics where
Malik, Director of Global Textile Network lower counts are required and that is

30 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


bangladeshcanvas

why many Pakistani mills are supplying to or interested to work with Bangladesh,

bangladeshSnips
Bangladesh, where denim manufacturing but there are strong reservations. “The
is one of the biggest growth areas,” says banking system in Bangladesh is very
Muhammad Shafiq, CEO, Hareem Textile, difficult and payments are a major
US $ 500 million green fund
Pakistan. The company besides having issue. Business can only thrive on good
for textile sector
55,000 spindles also has 150 looms to supply relations,” says Luqman Bin Arif, HOD-
To help the textile sector grey and printed fabric. Endorsing the view Marketing, Naveena Denim. The company
adopt eco-friendly Faraz Ahmed Malik, Director of Global is constantly increasing its presence in
technologies and practices, Textile Network, who represents many the country, but prefers to work with
the Central Bank of mills in Pakistan in the international market established players. The company has a
Bangladesh announced US says, “There is no real competition between capacity of 1.4 million metres of denim
$ 500 million of low-cost India and Pakistan, even though both the fabric per month using differential finishes.
green fund for the textile countries are looking at the same markets, They are also one of the biggest suppliers
sector. Atiur Rahman, because the product specializations are for Levis in Pakistan. Since denim has
Governor, Bangladesh Bank, different and also since Pakistan is more become a fashion product, one of the
announced the Central cost-competitive in coarser counts, most biggest challenges for the company is
Bank’s plans to earmark Indian mills do not touch the category.” meeting shorter lead times.
US $ 500 million of low- A major player in the Bangladesh market
cost ‘green fund’ for textile Winco Marketing, Pakistan is supplying
India looking to supply  
factories. The World Bank both raw cotton and yarn to many big
to the value-added
Group is supporting the segment…
Partnership for Cleaner Even though most of the big mills from
Textile (PaCT project) in around the country were present like
Bangladesh. IFC is taking Alok, Century, Neo-tex, Alps Industries,
the lead role in structuring Tirupati Yarns, NSL Textiles, Loyal
the green fund. Textile to name a few, the product in
Washing, Dyeing, and focus was cotton yarn. Also present were
Finishing activities are an trading houses like Texperts and Square
important part of the country’s Corporation. “China is an important market
textile and apparel industry as for cotton yarns and though last year, they
1,700 WDF units and almost slowed down buying, we see the market
200,000 workers contribute a reviving which is a good sign. What matters
net value of up to 20% to the to the Chinese companies is reliability and
textile value chain. quality. If any company can offer these
two elements, then the quantities that
“The banking system in Bangladesh is very the Chinese need can provide work for
Two factories misusing duty-
everyone,” says Dr K Rajasekhar Reddy,
free bonded warehouse facility difficult and payments are a major issue. Business
Chairman & MD, SLN Spinning Mills. The
Bangladesh’s Customs Bond can only thrive on good relations. We prefer to Guntur-based company is so upbeat about
Commissionerate (CBC) work with established players.” – Luqman Bin Arif, opportunities in China that it has opened
revealed that two export- HOD Marketing, Naveena Denim an office in Shanghai for follow-up after
oriented apparel companies the fair. Next on its radar is Bangladesh,
have evaded duty of around which is now looking at superior yarns for
BDT 12 crore by misusing the companies like NASSA, Sasha, Partex. manufacturing high-end fabrics.
duty-free bonded warehouse Besides standard yarn, the company is also
Also attracting attention was Linocel by
facility. In a recent spot supplying mélanges and double yarn. “We
Texperts, a yarn which looks like Linen and
inspection, CBC officials are sourcing all our yarn from Pakistan
feels like Linen, but has softer hand-feel.
found that KC Apparels and now looking to increase our focus on
“The fabrics made out of this innovative
Limited and Knit Concern China, which is one of the reasons to be at
yarn not only retain the look, feel, comfort,
Limited, sister concerns of a the fair,” said Khalid Rasheed, MD of the
skin-friendliness and creasing like quality
same business group, were company. Also looking to market mélange
of Linen, but also stays in line with the
storing much higher amounts yarns, Saif Group of Pakistan, which was
sustainable movement, which is taking
of raw materials in the represented by Zaheen-ud-din, COO of
the textile industry by a storm,” says
bonded warehouses than the the group felt that the days for supplying
Manish Mehta, Director, Texperts. The
registered amount. basic products are over. “It is important yarn is being used to develop both woven
for companies to differentiate and we have and knitted fabric, for both menswear and
According to the sections
established a factory in Egypt also to offer womenswear. As of today, Bangladesh is a
of Customs Act 1969, the
a wide variety of yarns, including those major market. In fact, Manish shares with
taxmen can confiscate the
that are not produced in the country,” said pride that the first major breakthrough
goods and the individuals
Zaheen-ud-din. The company has 130,000 came in January 2013 when Inditex (Zara)
behind the irregularity
spindles in Pakistan and 60,000 spindles ‘fell in love’ with Linocel and ordered more
are liable to a penalty not
in Egypt. than 100 metric tonnes of the yarn for three
exceeding (five times) the
value of the goods. While many of the Pakistani Mills are of its vendors in Bangladesh to make just
either already working with Bangladesh three styles in million pieces.

32 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


RESOURCECENTRE

Kingdom Holdings Limited


World’s largest
manufacturer
of Linen yarn...
Taps potential market
for profitable growth
Starting with 10 looms for polyester fabric in 1979, Kingdom Holdings Limited, China
shifted its focus towards linen yarn in 1999 with a small capacity of 5,000 spindles and
today the company has grown to become the largest in terms of linen exports with a
capacity of 100,000 spindles. In an exclusive interaction with Team AO at Kingdom’s
beautiful corporate office on the outskirts of Shanghai, Eric Sun, International
Commercial Director, shares the company’s strategy of tapping potential emerging
markets for profitable growth in a small but important segment, i.e. linen.

Eric Sun, International Commercial Director, Kingdom Holdings Limited

I
n comparison to the cotton successful operation, Eric rues that already started construction of
spinning industry, the size unlike other segments in textiles, its new manufacturing facility in
of the linen market is small linen industry has seen relatively Ethiopia as there are many relative
but nonetheless it is growing lesser improvement or upgradation advantages to have a manufacturing
and important for the fashion in its technology over the years unit in Ethiopia over China. “Firstly,
and differential market. Designers therefore making it a highly labour- the labour cost is high in China;
worldwide have been continuously intensive industry. “In textile secondly, as the company uses the
using linen in their collections though industry, linen is less than one per flax fibre grown in Europe and
it has seen little innovation over the cent of the total conceptualized Ethiopia is much closer to Europe
years. “Linen is a very historical fibre textile fibres. So nobody wants to than China. While exporting from
and has a stable production. Around make investment to develop new China to worldwide, involves duty
6,000 years ago, the Pharaohs of types of machinery. In our factory, whereas all countries open their
Egypt started wearing pure linen, as we have some machines which are gates from Ethiopia due to its
a sign of royalty. It is a completely 17 years old, though from the best status as ‘undeveloped and poverty
different fabric from cotton and machine manufacturers of Europe,” stricken’,” reveals Eric. Due to
wool and difficult to manufacture. states Eric. Though labour has been cheaper product line and shorter
Pure linen is special in itself and a problem in China, but for the past distance of the Ethiopian factory
warrants little innovation,” claims year things have been improving due to its main European market, the
Eric. Being an environment-friendly to many factories shutting down. company is also investing heavily
yarn, the company focuses on pure The company trains its labour for in training the labour by sending its
linen as it is established in the handling the linen spinning, as it technicians on a regular basis.
market and as Eric adds, “Linen requires very careful handling and Still under construction, the
has a lot of aspirational value and around 50 per cent of its labour Ethiopian factory will start
is a scarce commodity, which adds force are locals, while the other 50 production of pure linen from
to its appeal.” Yet, Kingdom spends per cent comes from west of China. December 2016 and the first phase
around US $ 1.5 million annually on Currently, with a global market of the factory will see a capacity
development and innovation to meet share of around 20 per cent and of 30,000 spindles, adding 30,000
customer satisfaction. around 2,600 employees, Kingdom more in the next phase. Apart from
Though, Kingdom has combined Holding is investing hugely in Ethiopia, the company also plans
the modern way of spinning with expanding its business and to partner with spinning mills in
the traditional approach, blending tapping potential hubs for linen Europe to tap the larger market for
technology with tradition for a manufacturing. The company has Linen production; one in Poland

34 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


RESOURCECENTRE

time line
and the other one in Tunisia are warehouse is almost empty,” 60 per cent, in Korea it is 80 per
under consideration. “They have declares Eric. For countries cent, share in Japan is 60 per
production capacities of 700 such as India, the company has cent, in Portugal it is 35 per cent,
tonnes, handling Eastern Europe its warehousing in Free Trade Turkey it is 65 per cent and in
and South America, which is a Zone at Nhava Sheva, Mumbai; India it is 12 per cent. “Keeping the
huge share,” conveys Eric. in Turkey, the company works leadership position is very difficult, 1979
The company markets its with an exclusive agent partner therefore we are always looking for
linen yarns in Mainland China, who warehouses for them, while partnering in different countries, The company started
European Union, and more in Italy, Kingdom has their own exploring the biggest and the most with 10 looms for
warehouse office. “On order, potential companies to work with in polyester and also
recently it has been supplying to started producing silk.
I can deliver within next two terms of technology and the quality.
India (for the past 6 years) and
weeks, but though we keep We are continuously investing to
Bangladesh (for the past 2 years).
enough quantity in Italy, there is keep up with the high quality levels
Exporting to approximately 20
countries, Italy is the biggest
always a shortage of supply and worldwide,” says Eric. 1998
that’s where the European local While India may well be the
market with fashion fabric
spinners come in and get space next destination where the
manufacturer Solbiati one of Market for silk declines,
to survive. They are feeding company would want to put up a and therefore, company
its loyal and consistent buyer.
factories with fast fashion due manufacturing facility, it is looking shifts towards linen.
A technical tie up with Italian
to their proximity and quick to explore other markets also,
chemical producer Bozzetto
deliveries, the transportation and Bangladesh is one of them.
allows the company access to the
costs are also less,” adds Eric. Presently, India is the second
best developments in processing
Meanwhile, the company believes largest consumer of linen yarn
1999
of the yarn for quality, which is
acknowledged by many as truly that they are their biggest after China. “India is a very huge
competitors and are confident market and in the near future we The company starts
the best in the world. Today, linen production with
Kingdom has in its product basket that no one comes close to their can think of setting up a factory 5,000 spindles.
a variety which includes wet spun reach in the world market. there, as within 4-5 years the
linen yarn, organic linen yarn, Currently, the company’s market country will surpass China in
linen mélange yarn, refined flax share in domestic China is only terms of linen yarn consumption,
fibre, and organic scutched flax. about 10 per cent, but in other though it is too early to commit,” 2003
In order to provide consistent markets it is huge. In Italy it is concludes Eric.
quality products to its customers, Extends the capacity of
the company has installed testing production from 5,000
to 30,000 spindles.
labs at all its factories, equipped
with the latest technology.
Being a company with a global
vision, Kingdom is working 2006
closely with Siemens for
sustainable development. Kingdom becomes
Experts from Siemens have the biggest company
analyzed the operations and for linen exports from
China to worldwide.
are supporting changes to make
the factories more energy-
efficient and also save on
water consumption. Workers 2015
at the factory are encouraged
to suggest improvements and Latest technology supports quality production at Kingdom Holdings Current capacity of
are made to feel ownership for 100,000 spindles with
the company’s global success. a market share of 20
The management at Kingdom per cent and 2,600
employees.
understands that the future is for
sustainable companies and along
with a natural product; systems
are also being improved to give 2015
the competitive edge for future
demands and expectations.
Ethiopian unit under
Working with a standardized construction.
product, manufacturing is a
continuous process and the
company maintains well-stocked
warehouses and ships out 2016
products on demand. “In the
past 5-6 years, everybody has Ethiopian unit to
pushed us for deliveries so the From fibre to product, linen is a niche market start its functioning.

MAY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 35


techreview

Suitable Technologies for quality


assurance and operational efficiency
When the market is saturated with technology providers, new launches of machines and
solutions rarely attract attention of the apparel and textile industry. But still there are solutions
that can help apparel and textile manufacturers increase operational efficiency and quality of
the output. On the same lines, Apparel Online highlights solutions from key technology providers
relevant to the current needs of the industry. Not only discussed are machines from Lakshmi
Machine Works, BRÜCKNER, Protti, Fukuhara and Gousheng but also highlighted are auxiliary
equipment from Memminger, X-Rite and James Heal.

Fukuhara is Bangladesh’s preferred


choice for circular knitting machines Protti confident of
growth with the longest
F ukuhara, the Japanese present in Bangladesh through collar knitting machine
W
pioneer which entered the its agent Pacific Associates. ith over 6 decades of experience
market 15 years ago has more “Unlike various other companies, in developing and manufacturing
than 1,000 circular knitting Fukuhara manufactures its electronically programmed knitting
machines running in the own machines and components, machines, Protti an Italian company enjoys
country. With an aim to supply except for a few parts, which are a strong market position and has one of the
the world with high-quality sourced from Germany such as broadest spectrums of knitting machines.
circular knitting machinery, yarn feeders from Memminger “The PT223 collar knitting machine can
parts and needles, Fukuhara IRO,” says Akihiro Konishi, produce three collars simultaneously due
was established in the year Manager of West Asia Section, to the presence of three carriages, making
1923 in Japan and has been Fukuhara. The knitting machine the machine 50% more productive than a
specialist claims to do 100 normal double carriages collar machine.
installations every year on an The three carriages can be joined together
average and some of its biggest to knit one long collar band for specialized
clients include the likes of Knit applications such as baseball jackets in
Concern Group with 130 knitting which the collar and placket is one long
machines and Aman Tex with 55 part, and has to be knitted together. The
knitting machines. machine is the longest in its segment
Equipped with OD5 frame for with 2.18 metre (86”) long knitting bed,”
open width fabric take-up and states Carmine Cocchia, Sales Manager,
fabric slitting device, Fukuhara’s JW-Protti Macchine Tessili. With an
circular knitting machines have equally advanced range of flat knitting
achieved significant weight machines for sweater manufacturing,
reduction as compared to the Carmine sees a bright future for the
conventional take-up system. The jacquard and intarsia sweater knitting
OD5 frame uses the latest servo machines from Protti in Bangladesh.
motor-driven control system The PT223 comes with high and low
which simplifies altering the butt needles and is designed to produce
take-up amount and the same simple linear structures of stitch and/or
can be changed in increments colours. The PT223’s new model has three
of 0.1 mm through the operation carriages which can also be used as a
panel for precise loop length. The two-carriage and single-carriage system.
take-up roller system has been A working width of 76.5 inches, 80 inches
modified from a 3-roll to a 2-roll and 86 inches can be achieved with three
system, eliminating the need to separate carriages, two separate carriages
change gears when converting and a single carriage, respectively. The
open width to tubular rolling, carriage speed of the PT series is 1.5 metre
thereby greatly improving the per second
Akihiro Konishi, Manager of West Asia Section, Fukuhara working efficiency.

36 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


techreview

Lakshmi Machine Works finds success


BRÜCKNER’s machines with ring frame systems
offer quality output
while saving energy
W ith 6 decades of experience in
manufacturing solutions for dry
finishing of knitted and woven fabrics, the
German pioneer BRÜCKNER has been
instrumental in helping Bangladesh built
fabric processing capabilities for more than
20 years. “Our machines were not only able
to give a viable solution for fabric drying
but also for heat setting, while solving the
problem of fabric yellowing. Since there is a
lot of dust present in the fabrics processed
in Bangladesh, we developed machines
suitable for handling this problem and this
is a secret to our success in Bangladesh,” C. Arunachalam, GM – Exports, LMW (centre) with P Bojaraj, Superintendent – Export, LMW (left) and A. Sathish Xavier,
avers Manfred Schulte-Austum, Area Senior Engineer, LMW (right)

Sales Manager, BRÜCKNER Textile


Technologies GmbH. Companies such as
Hamid Fabric, Knit Concern Group, DBL,
Metro, Fakir Group, Amantex, AKH Group
P resent in Bangladesh since 1980,
LMW has a strong clientage of
50 companies, including the likes
the process of creating a spare parts
depot in Bangladesh.

and many more are a part of the 200 strong One of LMW’s latest offerings, the
of Prime Group, Musharraf Group, Card LC 636 machine, is designed
clientele of BRÜCKNER in Bangladesh.
Viyellatex, Square Group, SM Group for higher production capacity of
BRÜCKNER machines are equipped with and Pakiza Group. “Due to our long up to 250 kg of yarns per hour, with
a heat recovery system and further energy presence in the country, we have an increased working width of 1.5
optimization measures that allow up to been able to successfully break the metre. The card has the highest
35% reduction in the energy costs. The biasness of the industry towards active carding area of 1.95 square
ECO-AIR heat recovery system can be European equipments and acquired metres among all the other carding
retrofitted on most dryers, while promising 40% of the market share in the machines in the world today. It
a return on investment in less than 3 years. segment of ring frames,” points out has a pressure regulated chute for
Another innovative feature of BRÜCKNER C. Arunachalam, GM-Exports, better feeding and a specialized
machines is the SPLIT-FLOW air circulating Lakshmi Machine Works. LMW profiled finger plate. It has an
technology. Each chamber is equipped with has found major success with its ring individual drive for feed, opening
four air circulation fans and two heating frame and speed frame machines, and stripper rollers, and single
units in counter direction, which allows which account for 50% of the cost of licker in arrangement with arcual
fine tuning the machine to specific fabric a spinning project. The company is in combing segment.
requirements. The air flow of upper and
lower nozzles can be adjusted separately,
depending upon the needs of the fabric.
Stoll going strong with its CMS 502
range of flat knitting machines

D edicated to the knitting industry,


Stoll – the 140-year old German
knitting solutions giant, has seen
Magpie Group and 100 machines at
Sky Apparels.
Stoll has registered success with its
the Bangladeshi market transform CMS 502 machine, which is equipped
from a phase where just 5-machine with 2 knitting systems, 45” working
order was considered celebratory width, take-down comb, cutting and
to today where 200-300 machines clamping on the right hand side and
installations are a commonplace. a friction feed wheel. CMS 502 has a
“When I became responsible for the starting bar and a variable stroke with
Bangladesh market 7 years back, Power-RCR system (Rapid Carriage
the country was nowhere on Stoll’s Return). Adding to the edge of Stoll’s
global map, but now it is just 2nd machines is the SKR Tool software.
to China and I see it becoming the The software keeps track of the
biggest market in the coming years,” number of pieces made by each and
asserts Thomas Hoffmann, Area every machine, machine downtime
Team BRÜCKNER – (L to R) Juergen Effertz, Head of Service
(East Asia); Bo Michael Kristoffersen, Area Sales Manager; and Sales Manager, Stoll GmbH. Some and reasons for the same can be
Manfred Schulte-Austum, Area Sales Manager of the recent installations of Stoll monitored from any location all over
include a set of 500 machines at the world.

38 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


techreview

Guosheng OFFERING suitable flat knitting technologies for Bangladesh

G uosheng, a sister concern of


China-based Changsu Guosheng
Knitting Machinery, has been
supplying sweater knitting machines
for the Bangladeshi market since
2001. With 3,600 installations across
Bangladesh in leading factories such
as Givensee Group, Matrix Sweaters,
Scandex Sweater, Sonia & Sweaters,
Pretty Group, Esquire Sweater and
JFK Fashion, Shakhawat Hossain
Khan, Director, DH Euro Group, the
sole agent of Guosheng in Bangladesh,
lets Guosheng’s clientele speak for
the acceptance of ‘made in China’
machines. “This speaks volumes about
our strong and sustainable technology
Shakhawat Hossain Khan, Director, DH Euro Group with Zhu Yudong, Director International Marketing,
support, research base, training and Guosheng Knitting Machinery
after-sales services,” avers Hossain,
who is confident of installing 10,000 in 9, 10, 12 and 14 gauges and are It can knit plain stitch, rib fabric,
machines alone in 2015. “The entire equipped with a single cam system interlock stitch, irregular multi-colour
industry is going through a revolution and a saver rolling finishing system. jacquard, twit flowers weft, aran,
of infrastructural transformation The second variant is also equipped cord weave, racked stitch, cable,
from basic hand flats to computerized with 4 yarn feeder guides. Outfitted intarsia, etc., and is suitable to use
machines,” he adds. with a 6-feeder system, machines from synthetic, wool, acrylic, mixed fibre,
With a single carriage system, this series apply digital technology to yarn material, etc., to knit readymade
Guosheng’s GSJX-1-52 series of achieve transfer, tuck, eyelet stitch, cardigans, hats, gloves, scarves and
flat knitting machine are available jacquard and hidden shape, etc. accessories of cloth.

Memminger IRO PRESENTS TO THE INDUSTRY labour saving devices for knitting machines

B acked with numerous patents and


futuristic developments, Germany-
based Memminger IRO has over 50
the garment industry in Bangladesh
through its sole agent F. F. Trading
Corporation. “A Memminger yarn
Memminger IRO is emerging with a
market share of 80% European and
40% Asian origin machine users,
years of experience in yarn feeding, feeder can last for 10-15 years if which includes clients like Apex,
control systems and lubrication serviced and maintained regularly Epyllion, Esquire and many top-rated
technology for knitting machines. and we provide free service for a Bangladeshi manufacturers.
The company has been present in year,” informs SM Hanif, Proprietor, Part of Memminger’s complete
the country since the inception of F. F. Trading Corporation. showcase at the fair, the MPF L – a
positive feeder for circular knitting
machines – is a great product with
wide acceptability in Bangladesh.
It comes with self-cleaning tension
rings on the yarn infeed tensioner
and closed wear-free yarn feed wheel.
Other features include the integrated
anti-filamentation unit and accessible
yarn outlet tensioner to approximately
1 cent newton. The feeder is also
equipped with knot catcher, adjustable
knot catcher, tube holder and inlet
bracket. The other popular products
from the company include a range
of feeders, lubrications systems,
monitoring systems, creels, drive
systems and accessories for circular,
flat, seamless, hosiery and warp
SM Hanif, Proprietor, F. F. Trading Corporation with a colleague knitting machines.

40 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


techreview

X-Rite presents online colour management solutions

A global leader in colour


technology and science, X-Rite
is set to develop Bangladesh as a
and durable for harsh industrial
manufacturing applications. No
special lighting or shrouding is
world-class textile manufacturing required for this all-inclusive solution
destination by sharing its colour which improves colour consistency
management skills and solutions and quality control while reducing
with the manufacturers. “We are the operating expense. Easy to set up
in negotiations for implementing and manage, the VeriColor Spectro
our solutions at 20 mega textile system enables colour control in
factories, all producing 20 tonnes real time as it is mounted in the
of fabric per day. In fact, of the production line where the fabric is
leading textile barons, Hamid Fabrics wounded on to the roll. “It should
is already taking the one-month be connected with the Wi-Fi or
demo,” says Rashedul Faisol, Sales broadband line and should also be
Manager, X-Rite India, while talking connected to Munich office. The staff
about increasing its presence in over there continuously monitors the
Bangladesh market. Presently, 60% fabric for colour deviation to analyze
of X-Rite’s revenue in Bangladesh and contain colour problems to make
comes from textiles. corrections without stopping the
X-Rite’s online colour control production,” he explains. Priced at
solution, VeriColor Spectro and Euro 150,000, the solution promises
Munich-on-line ERX 130, are compact Rashedul Faisol, Sales Manager, X-Rite India an ROI of one-and-a-half years.

James Heal launches new Titan5 Universal Strength Tester

S upporting the textile and apparel


industry since 1872, James Heal
is a UK-based testing instruments
India such as Arvind insist on having
in-house testing labs and hence they
have bought laboratory solutions
and through the same service.
Technicians sitting at James Heal
UK office can also do a test for
and solutions provider for the from us,” shares Simon Dakin, a customer located anywhere in
apparel, textiles and nonwoven International Sales Manager, the world.
industry. “Laboratories and testing James Heal. Equipments from
The latest model of the Titan5
agencies such as Intertek and SGS James Heal are calibrated with
Universal Strength Tester can
take complete laboratory solutions UKAS (United Kingdom Accreditation
now accommodate tests up to 5000
from us, whereas an apparel or Service) standards and some of
Newton and can perform tests such
fabric manufacturer often buys the instruments, if connected to
as seam slippage and seam strength,
standalone equipment. But the big internet through a computer, can be
stretch and recovery, security of
apparel companies in Bangladesh or investigated via remote diagnostics
attachments, compression testing
including ball burst, puncture and
crush resistance, yarn strength,
and the Baumann tear strength.
The device comes with ‘TestWise’
intuitive test analysis software for
automatically setting up the required
parameters such as gauge length,
number of specimens to test, pre-
tension requirement and the speed
at which the jaws are required to
move apart during the test. “Selling
30 units per year in Bangladesh,
the Titan5 Universal Strength
Tester is our bestselling model as
it has a wide range of applications,
followed by the burst tester which
is suitable for knitted fabric,” says
Peter Goodwin, Head of Technical,
Peter Goodwin, Head of Technical, and Simon Dakin, International Sales Manager, James Heal James Heal.

42 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


Tech Management By

IE in Apparel Manufacturing – III


Work Measurement using Time Study
The IE functions in most factories is primarily limited to work measurement which constitutes
Method Study and Time Study of the same method, but with limited application in practice
whereas work measurement is one important activity and should be done with utmost care and
accuracy. Deviation from the standard method may lead to spending excess time to do the same
activity which leads to process imbalance that makes the product costlier and result into reduced
profitability to the organization. Besides its function as a tool for productivity improvement, work
measurement also works as a base for costing, production planning and scheduling the process.
Work measurement is the application of techniques designed to establish the time for a qualified
worker to carry out a task at a defined rate of working. It involves first, finding out different elements
of the production process, second finding out the time taken by each element, and third fix the
standard time for performing the production process. Here, we will limit our discussion to Time Study
only and will discuss the other work measurement techniques later. In common practice all three
steps together is termed as ‘Time Study’ and will be discussed in the same manner. In this article
Dr. Prabir Jana, Professor, NIFT Delhi and Manoj Tiwari, Associate Professor, NIFT Jodhpur
discuss the practical applications and implications of work measurement, limited to Time Study only.

W
ork Measurement is volumes, style gets over by the time Study. The observer should collect
used to develop standard production reaches to its peak or even the information related to kind of
times needed to perform before. In such situations time values work, machine and equipment going
operations. It works as a measured may not be that much result- to be used, material used, work place
base for costing, production planning oriented and practically applicable. arrangement as well as the details
and scheduling the process. Sticking to While conducting Time Study by of surrounding.
the standard time is also an indicator stopwatch and board, the position of Breaking down operation into
of organization health which results Time Study engineer is also important, elements – Once the operation
into on-time delivery of goods. Other while the engineer should have a clear to be measured is selected, the
applications of work measurement view of the hand movement, he/she same needs to be broken down into
data may be in capacity calculation, should not create inconveniences to elements. Elemental breakdown
capacity planning and booking, process the normal working of the operator. provides an opportunity of detailed
balancing, simulation while planning, Nowadays most of the organized investigation and enables finding out
operator’s evaluation and comparison, factories carry out Time Study through the time consumed in value-added
skill development, and many such videography of the operation, it is and non-value added activities. The
complementary processes. important to calibrate the replay speed accuracy of Time Study depends on
Many a times it’s observed that with the actual speed of the operation. the elemental breakdown. The key
values obtained from Time Study Time Study is a cumbersome task. It considerations suggested for elemental
don’t reflect in the practice and a involves time, money and of course breakdown are:
significant deviation is witnessed manpower. To make Time Study 1. Each element should have a
from the time values set and actually exercise accurate and fruitful it should definite start and finish point and
achieved. Selection of the task for be conducted in a logical manner. It should be free from any overlap,
Time Study must be evaluated on starts with careful selection of work ensuring their subsequent repeated
measurable criteria like, work should to be studied followed by investigating recognition. These beginnings and
be clearly measurable and performed the circumstances (method, machine, ends can often be recognized by a
in a consistent manner, which means workplace, etc.), careful elemental sound or by a change of direction
there should be uniformity in the breakdown and its sequential of the hand or arm. They are
work being done. Considering the arrangement and finally getting the known as Break Points. A Break
start-up losses and learning curve, standard time values. An eight-step Point can be defined as an instance
it is also recommended that there easy approach recommended for Time when one element in a work cycle
should be a considerable volume of Study is shown in Figure 1. ends and another begins except
work. In practical situations, it has Getting the information about in situations where overlapping
been observed that in case of smaller work – This is the first step of Time elements are involved.

44 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


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Figure 1. Steps in Time Study for increased detailing. Elements


having duration 0.07 min. (4.2 sec.)
Obtain and record all the information
available about the job, the operator to 0.10 min. (6 sec.) can be reliably
Step 1 and the surrounding conditions, which measured by a trained observer.
is likely to affect the carrying out of the
work (working conditions). Long manual elements should be
rated about every 0.33 min. (20 sec.).
Record a complete description of the
Step 2 method, breakdown the operation into In practice, many IE divide the
“elements” operations into three major sections,
Figure 2. Cuff panels of a shirt sleeve
Examine the detailed breakdown to which are:
B C
ensure that the most effective method
Step 3
and motions are being used, and 1. Pick (It generally includes picking
determining the sample size. the panel(s), moving to the needle
Measure with a timing device (usually
point and handling till stitching starts);
a stop-watch) and recording the time 2. Stitch (Stitching and handling while
Step 4
taken by the operator to perform each stitching); and 3. Dispose (taking out
“element” of the operation. A D
the panel(s) after stitching, keeping it
Assess the effective speed of working aside and moving back to pick the next
Step 5 of the operator relative to the standard
rating. panel(s). Such approach is easy but Table 1. Elemental breakdown of joining the
may not be able to provide the minute shirt cuff panels
Extend the observed times to “basic
Step 6
times”
details of work hence may not reveal

Element No.

Description
the non-value added elements).

Category

Remarks
Element
Determine the allowances to be made
Step 7 over and above the basic time for the Let’s try to understand the elemental
operation breakdown of joining the cuff panels
Determine the “standard time” for the of a shirt sleeve (refer Table 1 and Picking up one panel Involves moving of
Step 8 and other by left and hands to pick, grasping
operation. Figure 2). 1. right hand panels and coming
back to the machine
The thumb rule of element bed
One common mistake in element breakdown is element that should
be small enough to be repetitive Putting panels face to Pre-positioning of
breakdown is skipping some
PICK

2. face, alignment and panels using both


motions from the cycle. In a while long enough to be measurable. placement hands
sewing operation, the pickup and The rule also says manual element
Lifting the presser foot, Lifting of presser foot
dispose of generally happens from and machine element should be sliding the aligned using knee and sliding
left and to the right of operator, separate; there should not be any 3. panels till needle point to needle point by
and lowering down the hands
respectively. During element element which is mix of manual presser foot
breakdown often the first element and machine element. This is to
ensure machine allowances can Lowering down the Needle lowering down
is “start/pick up of the pieces needle and start stitch using machine hand
be applied selectively to machine 4.
from left side of the table” and (from point A to B) with wheel by right hand
elements to get accurate results. back tack
last element of the operation is
“dispose of the sewn piece to the However, although it sounds Stop near to point B, At curve slower down
right side of the sewing table”. simple and straight forward but 5.
align and start stitching speed and using both
STITCH

at curve. Stitch (from hands


After disposing of the sewn piece often faces real life challenges and point B to C)
operator’s hand has to traverse compromising of rules may be
imminent. For example, in pocket Stop near to point C, At curve slower down
from right to left side of the table align and start stitching speed and using both
to pick up the next piece and this attaching on shirt front every time at curve. Stitch (from hands
6.
the operator reaches the corner of point C to D) and finish
hand movement is often missed in stitch at point D with
pocket, he/she will pivot the piece back tack
the complete cycle.
and then start sewing again. Ideally
2. Always try to keep the elements sewing from one corner to another
Lifting the presser foot Lifting of presser foot
and taking out stitched using knee and taking
simple and easy to understand. This may be one element (machine
7.
panels and lowering out stitched panels by
will help in common understanding element) and pivoting at corner down the presser foot left hand
among Time Study practitioners of should be separate element (as it is Picking up trimmers Picking up trimmers
the organization.
DISPOSE

manual element). But in reality for and cut the thread and cut the thread by
8. left hand while holding
3. It is good to keep the elements a good operator measuring pivoting the panels by right
smaller but at the same time time separately may not be possible hand

keeping it too small may lead to by Time Study engineer. Therefore, Moving back the Disposing of the
errors while observing. Hence for all practical purposes pivoting is 9.
trimmers by one hand stitched panels by
and disposing of the left hand
there should be a good balance added to the preceding or succeeding stitched panels
while deciding the elements. Very sewing element. There will be
small elements which are difficult marginal inaccuracy while adding
to observe should be merged with the allowances.
previous or subsequent element. Another problem of element
Similarly, the big elements should breakdown while sewing round
be divided into smaller elements curve. Unlike a stoppage (and thus

MAY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 45


Tech Management By

clear breakpoint) in sharp corner, An abridged version of a Time Study sheet


in above example of cuff sewing, Operation Cuff Making Work Place Layout
the breakpoint at point B and C Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine
is non-definitive type. The same
Style/Style No. Formal Shirt/ FS - 208 A2

Centre
operator may sew few stitches more

Material
Trolley
Stitch
or less while stopping at the corners Operator ABC
resulting element time variation. Observer XYZ

Table
Training on correct hand movements Start Time 0.438 Pick

may bring down the variation, Finish Time 0.465


but operator to operator variation Date 12-Aug.-2005
within one factory will still remain. Cycle

Normally it is observed that operator 1 2 3 4 5

will not stop exactly at the middle of Element Description

Subtracted

Subtracted

Subtracted

Subtracted

Subtracted
Reading

Reading

Reading

Reading

Reading
the curve, they generally stop either

Watch

Watch

Watch

Watch

Watch
Time

Time

Time

Time

Time
at the beginning of the curve or at
Picking up one panel and other by left 2 2 38 3 75 3 110 2 147 3
the end of the curve, thereby causing and right hand
variation between cycles. Putting panels face to face, alignment 5 3 41 3 79 4 114 4 151 4
and placement
Time Study sheet Lifting the presser foot, sliding the aligned panels
till needle point and lowering down
8 3 43 2 80 1 116 2 155 4

the presser foot


Time Study values for cuff making
Lowering down the needle and start stitch 13 5 48 5 86 6 122 6 161 6
(for which the elemental breakdown (from point A to B) with back tack
is discussed in Table 1) are shown Stop near to point B, align and start stitching at 22 9 58 10 95 9 130 8 172 11
in Time Study sheet. The time curve. Stitch (from point B to C)
Stop near to point C, align and start stitching at 27 5 61 3 99 4 133 3 176 4
observations were done on a curve. Stitch (from point C to D) and finish stitch at
continuous stop watch and values point D with back tack
recorded are in sec. Before recording Lifting the presser foot and taking out stitched 29 2 65 4 102 3 138 5 179 3
panels and lowering down the presser foot
the time values, one should watchfully Picking up trimmers and cut the thread 33 4 67 2 104 2 141 3 181 2
observe the machine, work place, Moving back the trimmers by one hand and 35 2 72 5 108 4 144 3 183 2
operation, elemental breakdown etc. disposing off the stitched panels.
All the elements should be checked Total Observed Time For 35 37 36 36 39
Individual Cycles (in Seconds)
and re-checked to ensure that no
Average Observed Time (OT) (in Seconds) 37.2
activity is missed out and arrangement Rating (%) 95
of elements is done in a sequential Basic Time (BT) (In Seconds) 35.34
manner. Once the continuous time Allowances (%) Personal - 8 Fatigue - 5 Delay - 2 Any Other - 0
observations are done and recorded (in
WR-Watch Reading Cells); subtracted
time values for each element in
each cycle should be written (in ST
The number of observations in Time Table 2. Sample Size
– Subtracted Time Cells). Observed determination
Time (OT) is calculated by average Study should be statistically justified.
time values of all the cycles. Further This minimizes the error and gives Cycle time in No. of cycles
minutes to be observed
realistic results. Though there are
Basic Time and Standard Time is To 0.10 200
statistical formulae for sample size
calculated using Operator Rating and To 0.25 100
determination, for ease a convenient
different allowance. To 0.50 60
ready-to-use table (refer Table 2) is
To 0.75 40
Use of decimal stopwatch (where recommended. The logic is when the To 1.0 30
one minute is divided into 100 operation time values are smaller, To 2.0 20
divisions) is recommended for Time chances of per cent error in observation To 5.0 15
Study; it is easy to visually observe are high compared to the instances To 10.0 10
the decimal watch to note down the when the operation time values are To 20.0 8
reading in decimal of minutes and comparatively larger. Assuming, for To 40.0 5
record in Time Study sheet. However, an operation if time value is 20 sec., Above 40.0 3
the decimal stopwatch is not easily then due to limitations (may be human
available normal stopwatch (where or stop watch) one may write 21 sec.
one minute is divided into 60 compared to the earlier observations
instead of 20 sec. or 19 sec. instead
division) is used in most factories. of previous small cycle.
of 20 sec. Here the per cent error is
If normal stopwatch is used then it 5% while recording. To minimize such Recording of time for elements –
is advisable to record the readings errors, it is recommended to take Once the elemental breakdown of the
in sec. and later convert to minutes. more number of observations for small operation is done and all the element
The Time Study observer should be cycles. While in another case, if time are well defined in a sequential order, it
extra cautious during calculation; a value for operation is 60 sec., again is recommended to check the sequence
common mistake is 30 sec. is equated the error while observing may be of 1 of the element. Elements should be able
to 0.30 min. or 0.50 min. is equated to sec. (say 59 sec. or 61 sec. instead of 60 to cover the entire operation provided
50 sec. and vice versa. sec.) which is 1.67% error and lesser performed in the sequence.

46 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


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The elements need to be timed using Table 3. Elements classification


Time Study tools such as smart Time
Element Type Key characteristic Examples
Study board, stop watch, video camera
or may be by using Smart Time and  Picking up a part prior to an assembly operation
Occurs in every work cycle of an
Motion Study devices. The time values Repetitive element
operation
 Locating a work piece in a holding device
observed for elements in sequence  Putting aside a finished component or assembly
may be noted down using the Time  Adjusting the tension, or machine setting;
Study formats. Does not occur in every work cycle of  Needle replacement
Occasional element an operation but may occur at regular
While taking the time values, one or irregular intervals.  Threading of machine after breakage
should adhere to the below points:  Bobbin replacement

1. First and foremost thing should be  Switch ON/OFF machine

confidence building between Time  Time in attaching button with a pre-set number
For which the basic time remains
Constant element of stitches at a given machine speed
Study personnel and the operator constant whenever it is performed
 Button holing of a particular profile with pre-set
to be timed. The objectives should stitches at a given machine speed
be clearly communicated. Many a
 Sweeping the floor (varies with area),
time operators take Time Study as
For which the basic time varies in  Transferring material from one workstation to
a threat to them and don’t take it Variable element relation to some characteristics of the the other (varies with distance)
positively. It should be treated as a product, equipment or process  Work place arrangement (arranging the
routine activity with a sole objective bundles, varies with the process requirement)
of work betterment. In any case, Element which is performed by a  Picking up trimmer
Time Study without knowledge of Manual element worker.  Disposing off the stitched panel(s)
operator should be prohibited and  Pivoting between consecutive sewing bursts.
considered as an unethical practice. Element which is automatically  Button attaching element with automatic button sewer
This may lead to mistrust between performed by a power driven machine  Stitching element on a automatic profile sewer
Machine element
the observer and the operator. and once started it cannot be controlled
 Embroidery element on an Embroidery machine
by a worker except to terminate it.
2. Many a times, operators purposely
 Receiving instructions from the supervisor
slow down while Time Study is ON An element, observed during study,
which after analysis is not found to  Thread breakage and re-threading of machine
as they feel that working faster
Foreign element be an essential part of the job. (Any  Bundle fall down
while Time Study may lead to tough element which is not part of usual work  Ripping off stitching after faulty operation
production targets. Sometimes an cycle)
 Disturbance due to operator fumbling
opposite scenario is also witnessed
where operators (mostly new
operators work fast. The reason etc. should be ignored. The cycle should be observed. Alternatively such
may be putting efforts to impress consisting of such unusual activities elements may buy time separately and
IE about his/her skills. In both the should be discarded and a fresh later while compiling time consumed
cases IE should ask the operator to observation should be taken. in such elements should be subtracted
work at natural pace. from the total time. However, to
6. The extreme time values should be
3. Selection of right worker is very discarded while analysis, as it may minimize the error, in such a situation
important. The worker selected be due to errors while recording. following the first approach (taking a
must possess the ability to perform Considering such values may lead to fresh observation) is recommended.
that task in a standardized manner. unrealistic results. Getting the Standard Time – It is very
Worker selection for Time Study important to get the Standard Time for
It is important to understand the
should be done in consultation with each operation. The sum of individual
various classes of elements before
production personnel. Also, it is operations results into the work
Time Study. Lack of clarity on type
always better to take a number of content of the product.
of elements may lead to errors in
operators rather than one operator the observations. Some of the major Introduction to Work Study by ILO
for same operation while doing Time classes of elements are as mentioned reads work content as the amount
Study. This will bring homogeneity in Table 3. of work “contained in” given
and increased acceptance of the product or a process measured in
observations. It is worth mentioning that these
element categories are not mutually “work-hours” or “machine hours”.
4. The operator who is going to be exclusive in nature. While Time Study It is nothing but the minimum time
timed should be given sufficient observer witnesses disturbances theoretically required to produce one
time to settle down before Time or interruptions in the work cycle unit of output.
Study and should be able to achieve being observed. Such interruptions Work content = Basic Time + Relaxation
steady pace. Operator should feel are caused by the foreign elements, Allowance + Any allowance for additional
comfortable while he/she is being work
which are not an essential part of the
observed. job and do not add value to the work. There are a number of terminologies
5. While Time Study, unusual activities These foreign elements make the used in industry and may differ
such as bobbin refilling, arranging work cycle longer than other cycles. from factory to factory. However,
the fallen bundle, threading, writing It is recommended that work cycles the fundamental understanding is
down something, halting work consisting of such foreign elements more or less same. Observed Time
and talking to peers or supervisor, should be discarded and a fresh cycle (OT) is the average value of time

MAY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 47


Tech Management By

Work measurement is the application of techniques designed to establish the time for a qualified worker to carry out a task at a
defined rate of working. It involves, first finding out different elements of the production process; second, finding out the time
taken by each element and third fix the standard time for performing the production process.

observations achieved from Time Delay Allowance or Work Allowance In PBU system when operator is
Study. Observed Time is recorded vary with the type of machine, these untying (opening) and tying (closing)
from direct observation of the allowances are generally kept around the bundle, that element should be
operator. Basic Time (BT) also 5-8%, while Fatigue Allowance (also recorded, calculated and apportioned
termed as Normal Time in many called as Relaxation Allowance) are to the sewing cycle. Suppose there
factories is the time value achieved generally kept as much as 5%. In total is a bundle of 15 pieces of shirt front
after incorporating operator rating. PF & D Allowances should be kept and operator sews the front placket,
This is said Normal Time, as the between 12-16%. the Time Study of the front placket
time values have been levelled or sewing operation is done and SAM
Assuming PF & D Allowance is 15%, the
normalized to a standard rate of value is 1.27 minute.
Standard Time for the above observed
work by multiplying observed value operation will be 1.38 min. (1.2 min. However for every 15 front placket
by rating. Further allowances such as basic time + 15% of 1.2 min. as making, operator is also doing untying
as Personal, Fatigue and Delay (PF allowances added). and tying of bundle once before
& D) are added to the Basic Time or passing on the bundle to next operator;
Normal Time to get the Standard For calculation of SAM, two different
therefore 1/15th of the bundle tying and
Allowed Minutes (SAM) or Standard methods are in practice; in first
untying time also to be added to the
Minute Values (SMV). method allowances are progressively
front placket making cycle.
added, and in second method
Basic Time (BT) = allowances are added to normal Another blatant mistake in the name
Observed Time (OT) X Rating of the Operator of Time Study practiced in certain
time. If the normal time is 1.5 min.,
Rating, as discussed in the previous PF Allowances is 10% and Machine factories is Cycle Study. Here element
article (refer ‘Operator Rating’, Delay Allowances is 9%, then in first breakdown of the operation is not done.
StitchWorld, September 2014) is method SAM = 1.5 (1.09) x (1.1) = Total Cycle Time for one complete
the assessment of the worker’s rate 1.7985 min. The logic behind this bundle is noted and then divided by the
of working relative to the observer’s calculation is given by Paul Collyer, number of pieces in the bundle to arrive
concept of the rate corresponding to the an independent consultant, as at time required per piece. Although
standard pace. Therefore, the rating “Contingency Allowances to be added there is no particular name for this
of the worker gives the comparison to Basic Time and to then add PF study; it is commonly called Cycle
of the rate of working observed with & D primarily because whilst most Study and used for quickly assessing
respect to the standard level, which is delays are machine-related (bobbin, “what’s happening” and this should not
the average rate of a qualified worker, rethread etc.), the operator is still be confused with Time Study.
when he uses correct methods and working and therefore needs PF
Conclusion
when he is motivated to apply himself allowance also”. This method allows
to the work. Operator rating (in % on adding Machine Delay Allowance to Time Study is extremely popular
a scale of 100) when multiplied by the machine elements separately. and widely used by IE. An IE spends
observed time, gives the “basic time” a considerable share of his work
For same reading, following the
for the element. time on Time Study. In many of
second method, the SAM = 1.5 +
the organizations, Time Study is
For example, if an operator is judged to (1.5 x 0.10) + (1.5 x 0.09) = 1.785
considered as panacea to all the
be working slower (rating 80) and the min. Although not so commonly
problems and industrial engineers
observed time is 1.5 minute then, used, noted consultant Chandrajith
directly jump to Time Study without
Wickramasinghe prescribed use
Basic Time = 1.5 × 80/100 = 1.20 minutes sufficient ground work. It is important
of this method because he says
Standard Time (ST) = Basic Time (BT) + to understand that Time Study may be
Allowances “allowance has to be calculated on
only useful when done religiously. It
observed time”.
Suitable allowances, to compensate should be well supported by the careful
for Personal needs, Fatigue and In reality, IE executives in factory selection of work, work place, operator
Delay are added to get the Standard do not face above dilemma as they and last but not the least, strong trust
Time for a particular operation. Such apply a blanket allowance covering between workforce and IE.
allowances are popularly known as both (i.e. 19% in above example to
Targets set on wrong/faulty time
PF & D. Such allowances vary with basic time). SAM = 1.50 x 1.19 =1.785. observations may lead to planning
individual personal needs, type of According to Paul Collyer this is not failures and serious monitory losses
machine, and kind of work (light, correct in terms of international best to the organization. Both excessive
medium and heavy, etc.). Till date practice but it works and makes life work load (too tight targets) and
there are no established standards for simpler for harassed IEs who are underutilization of resources (loose
such allowances. In normal working under pressure to set SAMs. targets) are dangerous to the
conditions it is recommended to add Another important rule of Time organization. It is highly recommended
5-7% Personal Allowance. Delay Study is calculation of frequency that Time Study should be done with
Allowances (also called as Machine of that element in the whole cycle. utmost care and accuracy.

48 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


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Bangladesh emerging as
an important sourcing
destination for s.Oliver
T he Dhaka office of s.Oliver
has been operational
since the end of 2004. As per
There are currently
three lifestyle
segments under the
industry sources, over the last
s.Oliver brand, all
decade, Bangladesh sourcing
for s.Oliver has grown to more targeting different
than US $ 100 million. Some of buyer types. s.Oliver
the main product categories Casual is the
from Bangladesh are T-shirts, company’s largest
sweatshirts, sweaters, woven segment that focuses
bottoms, denims, men’s shirts, on ladies’ and gents’
ladies blouses and jackets. While
denim sourcing from Bangladesh
has been relatively limited,
capabilities are developing in the
country to offer a wider product
range to brands like s.Oliver.
Further opportunities await
in categories like bodywear/
The birth of s.Oliver in 1969 as underwear as many specialized
a small boutique ‘Sir Oliver’ in factories are being set up in the
Würzburg was a tribute to the country catering to this category.
hero of Charles Dickens’s novel,
Pre-requisites
‘Oliver Twist’. In 1978, after for vendors... leisure fashion. Trendy
some legal disputes, the name
s.Oliver makes sure that the and fashionable, QS
‘Sir Oliver’ was changed to the by s.Oliver is aimed
basic thresholds like compliance
current brand name s.Oliver. are in place in a factory even at teenagers and
Founded by Bernd Freier (who is before they contemplate doing young adults, whereas
also its current billionaire CEO), business. More than the scales s.Oliver Selection
the brand initially sourced its and infrastructure, the mindset
addresses a more
products through wholesalers, of the vendors is important as
if the mindset is right then the
sophisticated audience
but as fashion suppliers were with a generally
factory can be groomed as per
frequently unable to deliver the buyer’s requirement. The understated style.
the quantities ordered by the right mindset includes how
retailer on time, Bernd travelled keen a factory is to work with
to India in 1974 to negotiate a brand like s.Oliver and how for s.Oliver as the country’s
directly with local textile flexible they can be? Can they capabilities are developing
manufacturers, and thereby handle business for 12 seasons in garmenting. The country’s
in a year? contribution to s.Oliver’s entire
gained independence from the
Very strict on compliance, sourcing is increasing but in the
wholesalers. Subsequently, he coming time, as China continues
s.Oliver audits the entire supply
had his own successful range to become more expensive,
chain – even the sub-contractors
of ‘Madras check shirts’, which and sub-suppliers, though the further growth opportunities
founded a ready market in company normally doesn’t could be available for factories
Germany. Today, the retailer allow sub-contracting. The in Bangladesh.
has purchasing offices in production is closely monitored Speed to market is one of the
Hong Kong (China), Hangzhou at the factory floor by the key factors that affect sourcing
company’s QCs. for brands like s.Oliver. Having
(China), Chennai (India),
the right product is perhaps
Bogor (Indonesia), Dhaka Focus on Bangladesh more important even if it means
(Bangladesh) and Istanbul increasing... that it needs to be sourced
(Turkey); the logistics is Bangladesh is emerging as from countries that may not
managed from Rottendorf. an important sourcing hub necessarily be the cheapest.

50 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


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‘BUY NOW,
WEAR NOW’
CHANGING RETAIL
Brands no longer restricted to four buying seasons
Though technically seasons change 4 times a year, but for many retailers today
the season changes between 7 to 15 times, luring shoppers to stores. Ditching the
traditional fashion-cycle, many retailers and brands are striving to deliver a near-
constant feed of ‘Buy now, wear now’ products. The buying season in fashion is no
longer about Spring, Summer, Fall or Winter, as retailers develop new reasons for
fashion seekers to shop, widening the number of collections and plugging falling sales
in traditional lean periods.

oday, the lead Even though it has a different year, one in Spring and one in
time of individual business model, following Fall, but within each season,
collections for brands ZARA’s footstep is the Japanese- there are several sub-collections
is anywhere between owned Uniqlo, an affordably that allow H&M to continually
two to five weeks, compared to priced global apparel retailer, refresh its inventory. The
the traditional six months or which makes well-designed and retailer’s primary collections
more, enabling fresh products well-fabricated basic clothes. are traditional long-lead times,
on the shelves with every new Not to remain behind, Burberry, while the sub-collections are
delivery. This shortened cycle which is also well-known for its trendier items with shorter
allows brands to better respond tech-savvy approach to shopping, lead times. Generally, the
to market feedback by doing has experimented with this items by the Swedish retailer
smaller runs per piece and if concept. Since 2010, the brand with very short lead times
well received by consumers, has sold a selection of pieces are manufactured in Europe,
then produce more, instantly. straight from the runway, with a while longer-lead items are
Though the concept is not delivery time of just eight weeks. manufactured in Asia. Like
entirely new, as ZARA, the Almost unbelievable, but as of Zara, this allows H&M to be
master of offering consumers today the fashion industry is more responsive to trends.
a near-constant stream of churning out around 52 ‘micro-
newness has been embracing The concept is now expanding
seasons’ per year, with new into other fashion items like
faster fashion-cycle for a long trends coming out every week for
time, making it amongst the accessories. Tamara Mellon,
consumers to buy as quickly as Jimmy Choo Co-founder, who
consumers’ favourite; it is now
possible, before they disappear launched her namesake brand
almost a norm with every fashion
from the shelves. According in 2013 with ‘Buy now, wear
retailer. The Spanish fast fashion
to Elizabeth Cline’s book now’ ready-to-wear accessories
retailer commits six months in
Overdressed: The shockingly faces a challenge of getting
advance to only 15-25 per cent
high cost of cheap fashion, retailers to accelerate the way
of its season’s collection and
ZARA receives new deliveries they work. Instead of quarterly
only locks 50-60 per cent of its
to its stores twice per week, deliveries, Mellon provides
collection by the start of the
whereas H&M and Forever 21 get monthly collections and finds
season, which means that up to
daily shipments of new styles, it challenging to get stores
40-50 per cent of its clothes are
and Topshop introduces 400 to agree to working with 12
designed and manufactured in
styles a week on its website. deliveries within a year. “It is
the middle of the season. For
instance, if Marsala becomes a Another approach is numerous difficult for department stores
rage, then ZARA’s supply chain collections within seasons. A to fully adopt the updated
reacts very quickly, designing leader in this concept is H&M, distribution cycle. We have
new styles and getting them into the second largest apparel seen great success online with
stores, while the trend is still at retailer in the world, which our own e-commerce and with
its peak. offers two main collections each forward-thinking retail partners

52 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


worldwrap

CSA Group divulges certification


programme for safety apparel

A leading provider of
testing and certification
services, CSA Group, has
environmental conditions
under which the work is
performed.
launched a new testing and The Group covers a broad
certification programme for range of products including:
high-visibility safety apparel fall protection equipment, head
to the requirements of CSA protection, protective eye-wear,
Z96-09. The Group offers a face protectors and protective
comprehensive programme of footwear. “CSA Group is a
standards solutions, testing leading provider of testing
and certification for personal and certification services and
protective equipment, including standards development for
high-visibility apparels such high-visibility safety apparel
as coveralls and vests used for the Canadian market.
in construction, emergency This programme is a part of
response and leisure sports; CSA Group’s commitment to
like Net-a-Porter. The consumers From mass market ZARA to the CSA Z96-09 standard contributing to a better and
have fully-embraced the ‘Buy high-end Burberry, retailers provides guidance on the safer world. The expanded
now, wear now’ approach, but and brands are embracing design and manufacture of services will help our clients
department stores have been and accepting the change high-visibility safety apparel. to meet the requirements
more reluctant to follow suit,” happening in fashion and It recommends that a hazard that help promote safer work
reveals Tamara. the customer’s need for assessment be carried out on environments in Canada,”
However, the retail scenario is instant gratification. With each job to determine the risk maintains Nashir Jiwani,
changing and slowly department designers creating new looks to workers of being struck CSA Group Regional Vice
stores too are embracing on a weekly basis, the fashion by moving vehicles and the President, Canada.
this concept, such as Neiman calendar for these companies
Marcus, which encourages is set up to deliberately make
brands to split their collection the customer feel off-trend
after the first wear. In today’s Greenpeace unveils Detox
into 8 to 10 (sometimes 12)
deliveries. “We have engaged highly competitive retail Catwalk report
environment, regardless of

R
customers, who visit our stores ecently, Greenpeace East the past four years represent
weekly and to keep their approach, it is critical to know
how consumers will react to Asia released its Detox approximately 10% of the
attention, there has to be fresh Catwalk, an online platform global apparel and footwear
goods with new deliveries. We products well before they are
launched. The chase report, which assesses how market,” revealed Yixiu Wu,
live in an ADD (Attention effectively fashion brands the Detox campaigner at
Deficit Disorder) society, With after Spring, Fall,
are removing toxic chemicals Greenpeace East Asia.
with the iPhone, designers Resort and Pre-Fall
from their supply chains and The four-year Detox
iPad, Instagram, etc. creating new looks season is pointless
on a weekly basis, tackling water pollution. While
We like immediate when retailers such campaign is changing the
the customer feels on one hand Inditex Group,
gratification and visual as ZARA, H&M, way companies are working
off-trend after the Puma and Valentino join 13
with their suppliers and is
stimulation. At Neiman, Topshop, Forever
first wear. other Detox leaders in this
that means new and 21, etc. are coming starting to shift chemical
year’s ranking, on the other
exciting clothes,” informs up with collections regulations in manufacturing
hand, sports brands such as
Ken Downing, Fashion Director every week or so. countries. According to
Nike and Li Ning are labelled
and Executive Vice President Scurrying to keep pace Greenpeace, Detox leaders are
Greenwashers for their failure
at Neiman Marcus. But the are manufacturers around those committed companies,
to take credible action to Detox.
longer and more complex the the world, while European leading the industry towards a
The Detox Catwalk assesses
supply chain, the harder it is for producers in Turkey and toxic-free future with credible
how committed companies have
the retailers and brands to break Eastern Europe and US timelines, concrete actions and
performed against key criteria,
away from the traditional retail suppliers in Mexico and South on-the-ground implementation.
which include how they are
cycle. “The number one thing America give advantage of working to eliminate known “Increased supply chain
facing the industry right now is proximity to fill shelves in two hazardous chemicals, such transparency is a good
timing. Consumers today buy weeks, Asian destinations as PFCs, nonylphenols and practice for a sound chemical
what they need when they need are still the preferred choice phthalates from their products management, which will
it, changing the way they used to for more long running and and processes, and what steps help decision makers
shop. But retail has not changed classic garments where they are taking towards full draft and promote solid
completely. It needs to be more along with fashion, quality supply chain transparency. policies in China,” tells
in sync,” asserts Marshal and timelessness are the “The fashion companies that Liu Jianguo from College of
Cohen, Chief Analyst at critical deciders for shopping have committed to Detox over Environmental Sciences.
Market Research Firm NPD. the style.

54 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


fall ’15 TRENDS
All about Fur and Patchwork for the Glamour…
The Arctic weather conditions in New York and London was reflected on the collections of many
designers as fancy furs, cozy winter coats, woolies and other warmers. Vibrant furs were big news in
Fall 2014, and Fall 2015 hasn’t dropped the pace. As designers oscillated between the 60s and 70s era,
there was experimentation with the idea of uniform, with hints of workwear. This was the direction for
carrying androgyny looks on the runway. While ornamentation was kept on the down low at New York –
functionality and protection against the cold were top priority – London’s designers were feeling a little
more frivolous. Runways at Paris and Milan showed that patchwork has become the luxury market’s way
of setting itself apart from other market segments with tricky piecing together of fabrics or working of
print. Trend analysts at FFT have listed out the biggest Fall trends from the coming season.

f all ’15
Fun Fur
S eventies being such a big trend, fur coats
were everywhere. All the fashion capitals
churned out their versions, whereas New York
and London presented fascinating faux furs,
Paris and Milan went for patch worked ones and
more innovative ones. Of course, the safe fur
coats included traditional shapes and various
coloured pieces in the most divine pelts. But
this season was more about the frivolous furs
– fluffy Mongolian lamb furs at Philipp Plein in
bright shades, two-tone grey and white at Just
Cavalli, Saint Laurent’s haphazardly colourful
patchwork fur coat. Plain furs were incorporated
in unusual shades – emerald at Versace, red at
Emilio Pucci, aquamarine at Max Mara and baby
blue at Dolce & Gabbana. Matthew Williamson
used long Mongolian lamb fur in lilac, caramel,
raspberry and turquoise in garments. Erdem
trimmed the collar of a camel coat in golden fur
Philipp Plein Sacai
and Roksanda made use of brightly coloured
shaved fur in stripes.
Jil Sander Roksanda

56 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


f all ’15 f all ’15
Androgyny Ahead 60s-70s Blur
I taly and France saw the trend of androgyny adopted by a
range of designers with heavy workwear referencing.
Dries Van Noten used shades of khaki on cargo pants that were
I t was back to the 1970s era for Fall 2015, with elegant, but
louche workwear with tailored flared pants and turtleneck knits,
as well as shimmering dresses and maxis ready for the disco
made dressy, at Chloé, a straight, pastel blue corduroy suit which dance floor. Dutifully, they followed in the 70s image, with fur
resembled denim, buttoned up all the way with utility pockets, capes, wide brimmed hats, flared pants and culottes and disco
Nina Ricci did something similar, though in navy with jet pockets tailoring. However, designers in Milan, like in London, strayed
that was paired with a ribbed sweater. A more sombre theme from the decade merging it with 1960s references such as mini-
came through in starkly androgynous tailoring and outerwear. skirts, modish bomber jackets, printed tights and neat A-line
Aquilano Rimondi’s dark charcoal and black palette played across coats. Designers to watch for this retro appreciation include the
hip-slung pants and blazers fasted to the neck, with only a flash casual tailoring and flimsy bow blouses at Gucci, the acrid palette
of silver sequins hinting at luxury. Costume National kept things and geometric prints at Bottega Veneta and the movie-star
very serious – chalk-drawn pinstripes on three-piece suits, longer glamour at Just Cavalli. In fact, many designers merged their 70s
line blazers, patent black leather and deep navy velvet. and 60s referencing within the one collection, Jonathan Saunders
and Topshop Unique included.

Costume National Paco Rabanne Just Cavalli Véronique Leroy

Chloé Gucci Carven Marni

f all ’15
Patchwork
P atchwork, so popular in New York and Milan, was back in force
during Paris Fashion Week. Designers in Paris presented three
options for this: the first a literal patchwork in spliced fabrics on offer
at Stella McCartney, Guy Laroche and Jacquemus. The next route was
neatly patch worked layers that felt more like wall art – see the frame
worthy panels at Christian Wijnants or the woven dreams at Nina Ricci
where sequined panels and feathered pieces were merged into one.
Lastly, patchwork effects were created through a clever print. They were
knitted in grey tones at Acne, used on skintight leggings and long
line blazers. At Cédric Charlier, varying widths and colours of stripes
were spliced together, giving the haphazard effect of a patchwork.
The strongest use of patchwork however goes to Chloé, who spliced MSGM Stella McCartney
colourful printed and woven panels of fabrics together in 70s style
ponchos and floor length dresses. Moschino Nina Ricci

58 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2015


f all ’15
Fringed Upon
I t’s almost as if designers anticipated how well their tasseled, fringed
and shaggy collections would perform. Fringing was seen trimming
boots at Rebecca Minkoff, forming skirts at BCBG and on bags and
shawls at Ralph Lauren. Fringing is also a great way to get products to
stand out online, plus it offers fantastic movement. Gentle fringing to
the edges of jackets, bags and booties, has been consistently popular
through New York, London and Milan. So we turn to Paris to unearth
the more extreme versions of this trend we now know will be big for
Fall 2015. We found it in Nina Ricci’s navy pea coat, cape-like with black
fringe. There was drama in the twine-coloured fringing at Sacai, which
boldly hung from the bottom of a leather coat and Ellery laser-cut lurex
and worked into heavy fringed rows across a strapless dress. BCBG Max Azria Chloé

Balmain Burberry Prorsum

f all ’15 f all ’15


Everything Embellished Cape Around
M ilan’s established houses love ornamentation and finery, so
it is no surprise that embellishment comes through from
the week as a trend. Versace’s high-impact collection ended
T here were endless furs, used in coats, jackets and stoles, but
the real newness came from the cape. In tweeds, shearling,
wool and leather, capes were seen at Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph
with a number of sequined bejwelled pieces, mini-dresses and Lauren and Lacoste, to name a few. By now capes are so
jumpsuits, bearing the motifs of the digital age – hashtags entrenched in Fall 2015’s dictionary that it was expected to see
and symbols, as well as letters spelling out the brand's name. them included in the collections of the big designers in Paris.
Better were the embellished and appliqué birds on a sweater Of course, they did not disappoint, with Lanvin and Lemaire
and dresses at Gucci, the metal studwork at Philipp Plein, the revealing versions befitting of the most gallant journeyman on
scattered sequins at Just Cavalli and the children’s doodles horseback. Sonia Rykiel paired her velvet cape, which fell to
turned into appliqué at Dolce & Gabbana. The raincoats at Mary ankle, with a matching printed velvet jumpsuit. At Kenzo, capes
Katrantzou bore embellished squiggles from plastic ribbon, not came in weatherproof poncho shapes, or knitted forms which
unlike cassette ribbon and Burberry’s bohemia was underlined swaddled the wearer and were hemmed in blanket stitch. At
with the unusual use of mirrored discs, alongside embroidered Chloé, the sleeves of a grey woolpea coat were given such fare
floral blooms. that the whole thing resembled a cape more than a coat.

Gucci Versace Tommy Hilfiger Vionnet

Burberry Prorsum Mary Katrantzou Burberry Prorsum Versace

MAY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 59