BASIC TEST

PROCEDURES
Isolate No Reverse
on a Jatco JF506E
by Rob Faucett
members.atra.com

O
ne of the most common problems
with the Jatco JF506E transmission
is when they won’t go into reverse.
This can be all the time, intermittent, or
only when the unit’s cold. It’d be easy to
assume the problem’s something internal, so
you might want to pull it out and get it on
the bench. But, as most of us have learned
over the years, that’s never a good idea.
Before going any further, always verify
the customer’s complaint. At the same
time, one of the most important questions
to ask is, “Has anyone worked on your car
recently?” If someone’s been there before
you, you need to find out whether the
problem was there before, or did it show up
right after they worked on it.
If the problem only showed up right
after someone worked on the vehicle, the
most common cause for losing reverse is
when someone mistakenly removes the
band anchor bolt, thinking it’s a fill plug.
This band is used in reverse, and first
through fourth; but in forward gears, the
reduction sprag will hold, even if the band
isn’t anchored or it’s broken.
If the customer’s been driving the car
for awhile since that service, chances are
the band rotated, wedging it between the
case and drum. By now it’s probably worn
out; nothing you can do will fix it without
removing the unit and replacing the band.
But if the car was towed in without Figure 1
being driven very far, you might be able to
fix it in the vehicle: Remove the servo to release tension on scan tool. Check for codes in all systems, and examine
the band, and use a pick through the band anchor hole to sensor inputs and solenoid operations.
reposition it. One thing to keep in mind when any vehicle loses
If no one worked on the vehicle recently, start by reverse is whether the transmission is capable of inhibiting
checking the fluid level and condition, and connect your reverse (figure 1). Many transmissions have this capability
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 Basic Test Procedures Isolate No Reverse on a Jatco JF506E

to prevent damage caused by

engaging reverse while the vehicle
is moving forward.
On those systems, the
vehicle’s computer monitors the
output speed sensor during reverse
engagement. If it sees movement,
the computer will command
solenoids on or off to prevent
reverse from engaging. If you
lose reverse because of an output
speed sensor problem, it’ll usually
be accompanied by forward shift
pattern issues.
Here are a few possible causes
for false signals on the output
speed sensor signal:
• Alternator failure, causing
electromagnetic interference
• Faulty computer or sensor
grounds
• Aftermarket electronics
installed improperly or
incompatible with the vehicle’s
computer system
• Ignition system problems,
such as faulty wires, plugs, or
waveform irregularities
For Land Rover, Jaguar, and Figure 2
Volkswagen, the computer turns
the low clutch timing solenoid
on to inhibit reverse (figure 2).
Mazda computers turn the neutral
shift solenoid on to inhibit reverse
(figure 3).
Even if the computer isn’t
commanding the solenoid on, it’s
still a good idea to check whether
the solenoid is being energized.
Use a current clamp, backprobe
the solenoid wire, or simply
disconnect the case connector and
see if the solenoid turns off.
Solenoid failure can cause
also prevent reverse all the time or
only when cold. These solenoids
sometimes stick on when cold
and begin operating properly after
they warm up. So if you’re missing
gears during cold operation but
the transmission works okay after
it warms up — or vise versa —
check the solenoid application
chart and start with that solenoid.
When checking solenoid
operation on the bench, use a
lab-type power supply that can
adjust current to the solenoids Figure 3

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 Basic Test Procedures Isolate No Reverse on a Jatco JF506E
to prevent damage (figure 4). If the
failure occurs when the solenoid’s
cold, place the solenoid in a freezer
for a couple hours.
If it fails hot, use a heat gun,
or place the solenoid in a pan filled
with ATF and heat it on a hotplate to
warm the solenoid up. Use an infrared
thermometer to monitor solenoid
temperature, and retest the solenoid
when it reaches normal operating
temperature.
If the solenoid passes the bench
test, your next check should be the
valve that the solenoid controls, to see
if it’s sticking.
One thing to consider when
checking for a sticking valve is that
some valves will rotate in their bore
as they stroke. And some valves can
stick in one position, while they move
freely in all other positions. This is
usually because of debris embedded
in the valve or bore.
Another check for isolating a
sticking valve is to remove the suspect
valve, spring, and end plate from the
valve body. Bolt the valve body —
minus the valve assembly — to the
case and torque it down. Then try to
reinstall the valve.
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Figure 4
If the valve moves freely with
the valve body off the transmission,
but won’t slide freely once the valve
body’s bolted to the transmission,
suspect a warped valve body or case.
If the valve still strokes freely
with the valve body bolted to the
case, try placing the valve body and
valve in a freezer or use a heat gun,
depending when the problem occurs.
And as always, vacuum test the
valve body: Like all other aluminum
valve bodies, these are prone to wear.
Minor leaks may pass a road test, but
burn up clutches in just a few hundred
miles. A vacuum test will isolate those
leaks that are right on the edge.
When clutches are burnt, refer to
a hydraulic diagram to verify which
valves operate that clutch to narrow
down which valves to vacuum test.
The real key here is to follow the
diagnostic procedures, and examine
every part of the system when faced
with a failure. A little extra time
on the bench can help you avoid
a transmission comeback and an
unhappy customer.
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