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Making of a Brand: Woodland

Dr. Vinita Srivastava


Prof. B.D. Nathani

BACK GROUND OF WOODLAND

A refugee by the name of Sardar Jiwand singh used to run a small little shoe shop in Ambala, mainly for
the locals. In 1954, Singh decided to relocate to Delhi. His interest in the shoe business, of course continued.
So he started a small manufacturing unit in New Delhi’s Karol Bagh area. The company was then called
the Aero Group.

During those days, Eastern Europe and the erstwhile Soviet Union were major markets for Indian leather
exporters. So for the Delhi based Aero Group, getting into exports was only a logical decision. The group
started exporting shoe uppers and leather to Canada and Soviet Union. Soon enough, exports accounted for
almost all its revenue. The business flourished. And during the 1980s, the annual exports of the company
had touched Rs. 102 crores. Soon an opportunity struck and group acquired one importer in Canada having
three brands white fox, boutique and woodland. During this time, they learnt to create waterproof and heat
retaining shoes as well as retailing, marketing and design.

But with the disintegration of the Soviet Union and much of the Eastern Bloc in the early nineties, the
company’s export business sank. By then they had built up a huge infrastructure to meet the demand for its
products. Factory equipment was shifted to India, but the brand acquired new life when Italian and German
designers stepped in to add value. Meanwhile, as a wave of reforms began in 1991 in India, it became a
market oriented economy. “We had to start afresh and search for new markets”. Says BD Nathani says
erstwhile Vice President of Aero Group. The domestic market was the obvious choice. Aero’s wide
infrastructure proved more than handy in this crucial endeavor. And the brand Woodland was born. Today
the brand is growing at a pace of 20-25 per cent every year.

WOODLAND INTRODUCED IN INDIA

The first trial runs of Woodland started in 1991 in key prime outlets of Delhi, including Wings store, a
successful retail outfit owned by Aero.

Positive feelers led to a full-fledged launch in Delhi and Mumbai in October 1992. Woodland was formally
launched in 1993 after making a dramatic entry in the Indian footwear market by opening up a hitherto non-
existent segment, the premium casual footwear market in 1991. Woodland emerged as a new brilliant idea.
This was first innovative product with virtually no competition in the market. Research agencies found that
outdoor category was missing (casual as well as outdoor). “Only formal and sports category was popular
during those times. As it went national, the euphoria being seen in and around Woodland led to a major
shake-up in the market”, shares Mr. B.D Nathani.

The cable television invasion exposed young Indian consumers to international trends and created a demand
for such products. And Woodland was there to fulfill that demand, all by itself, without rivals. The question
was how to create an identity, logo and brand name for woodland in this latent category.
The name woodland, was chosen keeping in mind, people who go for outing in jungles and woods
representing outdoor. Company officials say brand name was chosen because it described the products –
rugged, casual and durable. For emphasizing outdoor intent green tree was chosen. Punchline initially
chosen as “Born wild”. Later on, it was realized that it didn’t serve the purpose and then focus was made
on leather. The new punchline emerged as “Leather that weathers”. This punchline continued for next 10
years. Then after calculated decision non-leather material is introduced and punchline was revised to be
“Explore more”. This reflected the new merchandise introduced by the firm. Master display was created by
the merchandiser.

With a brand vision 'to empower explorers everywhere', woodland positions itself as a rugged, outdoor shoe
brand, preferred by adventure enthusiasts. It is the spirit of adventure that defines woodland. Woodland
offers an extensive line of footwear, performance apparel and outdoor gear. Whether it's a lightweight jacket
for active pursuits or a summit tested parka for the coldest places on earth, the focus is on creating truly
functional solutions for outdoor and adventure enthusiasts. Whether you're new to outdoor adventure or are
a seasoned pro, woodland's gear keeps you dry and warm for the trails and slopes, wherever you go.

WOODLAND A SALIENT BRAND

A brand with green and white logo could claim a long stint in the international market and very well aware
of international fashion as well as quality. The brand personality attributes were “tough” and “wearable”.
Woodland brand was carried over to summer products. But winning customers was not the only challenge.
In the west, casual rugged footwear was the rage amongst the youth those days. So, woodland decided that
what will be its USP-shoes that were smart and tough. The only reliability with woodland was the quality
of products offered. Woodland was positioned as an adventure, rugged, outdoor leather shoe brand. The
youngsters found the brand to be impressive and a product line especially for India was developed. Since
then they have never looked back.

The target audience for the Firm was clearly the younger generation in the age group of 15 to 20 years –
which was looking for international quality shoes at affordable prices. Soon enough, many other companies
like Mescos and Wasan followed. In later years, Reebok, Adidas and Nike also joined the bandwagon. But
Woodland continued to lead the market as it witnessed rather quick departure of Mescos, Wasons and
Lumberjack from the market. Though sportswear brands targeted a similar market, they never posed a direct
threat to Woodland. This initiated the focus on this segment. This segment was primarily available in the
following channels MTV, V Channel, Sports , Cricket and college fest. Now the focus was on fashion to
create aspiration. Fashion Shows were sponsored in colleges. Rock show Times FM, which is hot favorite
of this segment was sponsored by Woodland. Campus promotional sale– 20 percent discount for students.
Informative ads were being aired. PR activity – press conference was done. In 1993, Taj Palace Mid night
bazaar 24 dec to 2nd Jan was done. In 1993-94 Brand became wholesale oriented, and in 1994 April Sharjah
match first ad was launched.

Fashion shows were sponsored by Woodland in university colleges and T shirts and Jackets were given as
a promotional merchandise for models. In 1996 competitive stories were aired. In 1998 mall pricing strategy
was adopted. Woodland was advertised heavily and POS activities like glow signs and cloth banners were
initiated.
The brand used earthy colors to represent its ruggedness. The company presented international quality
standard and tried new concepts like thermoplastic soles and water resistant leather. And with that came
the tag line “Leather that weathers” that became an instant hit. The company, in a short span of eight years
cornered 40 percent of premium casual footwear market and manufactured around 5000 pairs a day. With
the shoe market under its feet so to say, the company entered the branded casual wear market. It had a chain
of 54 exclusive stores and more than 2000 multibrand outlets. The barnd was also being sold in Mauritius,
Bangladesh and UAE. The USP of the brand was the earthy colors and of course, international quality.
Although it was an absolutely new product in the market with no competition, in 1990’s company faced the
following challenges : Finding new channel partners, leather shoe price was high- thick leather TPR sole,
introduction of new buck water resistant with premium pricing. They had to adopt selective distribution
strategy against liberty(bata and liberty were using intensive distribution).

In 2014, Woodland launched a campaign to promote its new range of 'survival gear' created by Lowe Lintas
& Partners. Titled 'Live to tell the Tale', a self-explanatory name, the campaign showcases items designed
to help adventurers survive the harsh outdoors. They include warm-grip shoes with temperature control,
ResQ Jacket with RECCO tracker technology (can guide rescuers to one's location in the event of an
accident) and solar bag (can convert sunlight into electricity). Some of these products, like the jacket, are
priced as high as Rs. 12,000. Shot in Falls Creek, the 'ski capital' of Australia, the campaign was aired
across India, Hong Kong, China, West Asia, some parts of Europe and the CIS countries through AXN,
MTV, Channel V, Star World, Star Movies, VH 1, National Geographic, Fox Traveler, Discovery and Sony
Pix, among others. The campaign comprised outdoor ads(hoardings in metros like Mumbai, Delhi, Pune
and Bengaluru), print ads and a 30 second-long TVC, which was basically the story of an outdoor
enthusiast being rescued from a snow-covered mountain. The copy on the print ads read, 'I never realised
where I was walking until the crack gave way' and 'The slope beneath my skies gave way, my will to survive
didn't'.
Woodland associates itself with youth-oriented events like college events and rock/music festivals. The
brand used these platforms to engage the youth by giving them a first-hand feel of adventure; this is done
with the help of bouldering walls, climbing walls, slack lines, bungee jumping and other such simulated
adventure settings. Woodland is not in direct competition with sports brands like Nike, Reebok and Puma,
but shares a large chunk of its TG(17-25 years) with these players. The same youngster can wear a sports
shoe brand or a pair of Woodland shoes to college. Of late, schools plan small adventure camps for their
students. Moreover, when people plan vacations nowadays, they prefer locations where they can try out
adventure sports, rather than stick to the erstwhile sightseeing-shopping mix. Lot of groups - like cycling
groups and weekend trek groups - are being formed by people and the demand for outdoor products beyond
apparel and shoes has increased, for instance, sleeping bags. Woodland plans to position itself as a one-stop
shop for all adventure gear. Malaika Vaz is a teenaged extreme sports’ enthusiast who is a national-level wind-
surfer, a certified advanced PADI scuba-diver, horse rider and football player has been promoting woodland on
its website.

GROWTH OF WOODLAND

By the year 1996, Woodland launched its first company owned store. During the initial stage a lot of
research on consumer preferences was carried out to study the market. Being a new brand, brand was sold
through retailers like Bata and Carona, and today chain of retail stores are spread across the world. Company
was keen to associate with retailers who were willing to experiment with completely new category-
'Outdoor & adventure’.

In 2005, Woodland, entered Tier 2 and Tier 3 cities. 300 sq feet stores were opened in Jaipur and Udaipur.
Stores flopped and had to shut down in a short time. In 2008, re-launched store in these smaller cities with
a new winning strategy. They decided to take up 30-40%space in a mall to showcase and sell their products.
It worked.

In 2009, the company invested about Rs 5 to 10 crore (Rs 50 million to Rs 100 million) in new automated
machinery from Italy. In 2009, four stores were shut down as they were not viable, six were relocated
because of high rental. Woodland got good business from large-format multi-brand retailers like Shoppers
Stop, Lifestyle and Reliance. About 30 per cent of the sales happened from stores other than Woodland's.

By 2010, total 300 stores with 6,00, 000 sq feet retail space(Rs. 5000 sq feet revenue) were opened out of
which 60 percent were in metros and 40 percent were in cities. Stores were opened in Varanasi, Allahabad,
Vapi, Sangli, and Thrissur etc. 3,000 distributors were operating across India for apparel category, which
contributed to 40 percent to Woodland’s business. A large focus was on water-proof jackets, eco-wear
garments, kids wear and yoga range. It tied up with several designers in Italy to supply latest designs as
well the know-how to manufacture it. Woodland’s almost 80 per cent of its stores are profitable.

By 2012, Woodland had 350 company owned stores and was present in 3000 multi-brand outlets. It was
using a robotics aided plant and manufacturing in India, Bangladesh, Vietnam and China. It was using
Direct Injection Process(DIP), German Technology for making tough rubber soles. It used Italian
machinery for tanning and finishing of leather.

In 2013, Woodland ran a network of 380 exclusive stores worldwide. It also undertook many CSR activities
to encourage youth to have an environment friendly approach. The brand already existed in many markets
across the world. Woodland got a good response on their own website as well as our partners in online
retailing. The actual sales of Woodland through Internet shopping was still very minute when compared to
showroom sales. Both of them will remained parallel in working.

The year for apparel and footwear brand Woodland was good in 2016 and 2017 in compare to previous
years 2014-15. Outdoor products such as jackets and boots contributed well given the winter season and
discount. Demonetization made a big impact and the sportswear brand couldn’t achieve the target in 2015-
16. The store business of the brand didn’t get affected because of credit card sales but the distribution
channel was impacted in different parts of the country.

Woodland had 600 stores across the country in 2017 and opened 50-60 new stores this year.
The brand is selling their products in offline mode from last 25 years and forayed into online sales four
years back. Currently, they are selling around 14 per cent of their stock online.
Woodland has differentiated between offline and online sales. The group created new fresh lines for both
the platform as they received complaints from distributors and retailers with the same product being
available at a good discount online. Woodland is expecting the offline and online ratio to be 60:40
respectively in coming few years.
Woodland’s biggest competitor, Timberland, the maker of hiking shoes and outdoor gear shut its shops in
2015. Currently, Woodland is seeing some competition from the retail chain Decathlon. Decathlon is a big
retailer which is easier to buy and do a lot of products like outdoor shoes and outdoor wear. But they are
not very specific. Woodland is more focused on a certain category which is upmarket. Business Abroad
Woodland has launched a company called Woodland Asia-pacific which looks after all the Asia pacific
countries. They already selling in Hong Kong and neighbouring countries for the last 6-7 years.
In China, Woodland has tied up with one of the biggest retailers, Okang. Both the retailers have planned to
do something jointly for smooth entry in each other’s countries. Woodland will be available in 150 stores
of Okang and Okang will present in 40 stories in India as well.

WOODLAND AND ENVIRONMENT

Woodland has always been a brand which has been working in sync with nature internally and externally.
It focused on brand mantra of explore more-through adventure in nature, exploring and preserving mother
nature. Product hangtags and visiting cards of company officials have been using hundred percent recycled
paper. It has partnered with eco-conscious organizations like Leave no trace, UNICEF, WWF and many
more. It promoted Pro-Planet community(Rs. 30 cr investemnt) through social media (Twitter and
Facebook) by raising awareness and communicating eco-friendly brand values. In 2011, Woodland started
selling through online store. Woodland supported first Education Base(E-Base) in Ladakh powered by solar
energy.

It ensured that less harmful materials and chemicals are used while making products. It has been ensuring
minimum environment footprint by energy conservation and recycling consumer and industrial waste
products. Material like polyurethanes are used in shoe manufacturing which is eco-friendly as per German
standards. It uses vegetable tanned, harmless chemicals for tanning leather. It processes 25,000 discharge
every eight hours in an environmentally responsible manner. Woodland maintains an unswerving
commitment to sustainable and eco-friendly business practices through innovation and technology.
Woodland shares a passion for adventure, nature, exploring and preserving the planet Earth. Hence, the
brand mantra 'Explore More' is integrated into every product it manufactures and the activities it is
associated with.

Woodland has been supporting UNICEF’S, WASH (Water, Sanitation and Hygiene) programme running
across 500 schools since 2011. It has improved access to basic hygiene, sanitation and clean water
availability for these children. It has also helped in creating toilets and spreading awareness curb open
defecation.

PREMIUM BRAND WOODS

A premium sub-brand WOODS was relaunched after a failed debut in 1998-99 in a semi-formal category.
Premium priced footwear, bags and accessories were launched through existing stores and exclusive stores.
It was also launched in territories like Russia, China, Malaysia, Singapore, Canada, Africa and the UAE.
Woods intended to be an aspirational brand like Aldo, Charles & Keith, Pavers England, Hush Puppies,
Clarks, Steve Madden, Tod’s and Bally, Louis Vuitton, Jimmy and Longchamp. The company invested Rs
60 crore to open 30 boutique stores in high-end shopping malls this year under this brand and the focus
shall be on women segment.

Woodland shoes retail in the range of ₹3,000-5,000; Woods is priced between ₹5,000 and ₹12,000, in the
premium and luxury band.The premium and luxury market for shoes in India is extremely small. According
to a report by CARE (Indian retail industry-Structure and Prospects), organised footwear accounts for just
2 per cent of the organised retail market. Of this, the premium market is an even thinner slice. According
to analysts, the premium and luxury footwear segment amounts to ₹1,000-1,500 crore. For Woods,
however, the numbers are not a deterrent. The company says the Indian youth is more aware of brands than
earlier generations.

Recently, French luxury brand Longchamp opened its first store at the DLF Emporio mall in Delhi. It plans
to open a few more over the next year. For Woods, the entry of big international names is a validation of
the promise that the market holds out. The first Woods Store in Delhi, an exclusive all-leather footwear and
allied lifestyle accessories outlet, was opened recently. Singh says in the next two years, the company will
open around 25 Woods stores. Each store would involve an investment of ₹2-2.5 crore, he said. The
company has also tied up with Amazon and Flipkart.

For a long time now, the Woods brand has been a part of the Woodland stores. Almost 60 per cent of
Woodland stores sell Woods products; it is also sold through multi-brand stores such as Shoppers Stop,
Lifestyle and others. Of a total revenue of ₹1,350 crore, around 20 per cent was from the Woods brand in
2016-17. The number, Singh says, has been growing consistently at 15-20 per cent. "Today the brand has
matured enough to have separate stores." Singh is targeting the millennial consumer. He believes there is
greater acceptance for brands with the look and feel of Woods today than earlier. Well-travelled and more
exposed to global styles, these customers are hungrier for brands that meet their standards at home. Singh
says the current market presents a dilemma for the brand in that while Woods has seen a steady acceptance
by Woodland customers, it has failed to evolve into its own label. He is clear he does not want to develop
it as a sub-brand. That was why he started stand-alone stores. The viability of Woods as a stand-alone brand
may not be as good as Woods in Woodland stores. But, this will help create its identity and push the brand
on a higher growth trajectory Singh says. The brand is also planning to venture into shirts, T-shirts, dresses
and party wear. The company has hired a team of designers and a new line-up is expected by September.
The company is also on the lookout for a suitable endorser for the Woods brand and it plans to spend nearly
7-8 per cent of the sales budget on marketing alone.

WAY FORWARD

Woodland refuses to compromise on quality or performance for any reason and all of its products meet the
highest quality standards for outdoor performance. Woodland is present globally in over 40 countries that
include- Hong Kong, China, Australia, Europe, Middle East, South America, GCC , CIS Countries and
more. Also, it has 15 plus stores in overseas markets and have the presence in over 500 multi-retail stores
(excluding China). The company has set up international regional offices and warehouses in Hong Kong,
Moscow and Dubai to cater to the requirements of countries in different regions as the business is growing
everywhere. They entered China this year and are planning similar collaborations in some South African
countries and Canada.

Woodland entered China in partnership with Aokang International and received a positive response from
the same. Chinese market is good for company’s long-term planning and development. It will help us to
grow in the global market. This partnership will allow us to sell our products in about 5,000 retail outlets
in China. We will initially start selling through 150 Aokang outlets. After testing the market with 150 stores,
we shall scale up stocks by September and will be available in Aokang stores across China.

Now, the big question before Woodland is how to move ahead from here. They have recently started
Woodland Asia Pacific to keep an eye on Woodland operations in the region. Is this a right move? How to
take Woods ahead? Which new areas brand can foray in? How can the marketer ensure that the customers
resonate with the brand mantra?

Exhibit 1

Life cycle of Woodland


Year Sales

1993-94 7
1994-95 25
1995-96 50
1996-97 65
1997-98 85
1998-99 100
1999-00 105
2000-01 115
2001-02 145
2002-03 155
2003-04 175
2004-05 200
2005-06 230
2006-07 280
2007-08 335
2008-09 405
2009-10 485
2010-11 575
2011-12 690
2012-13 780
2013-14 980
2014-15 1020
2015-16 1135
2016-17 1250
2017-18 1400
15% business comes from e commerce
The mix of domestic sales versus exports is currently in the ratio of 80:20 and we are consciously trying
to increase the contribution of exports and gradually to bring it to 50:50 ratio.
https://www.indiaretailing.com/2017/04/11/fashion/woodland-open-50-stores-fy18-expects-25-pc-
jump-revenue/
Exhibit 2 : Testimonials

 Woodland is fondly remembered. Manoj Kejriwal, a senior government official remembers


his university days and his casual footwear. “Owning a pair of woodland was the ultimate
craving as without it you were not taken as contemporary.” (Business India 2002)

 “Woodland was a statement for the youth. There is no doubt that Woodlands became a part
of university uniform and has been able to sustain a strong relationship between brand and
customer.” Adds Prem Madan, deputy general manager, Tej Group(owner of tsf brand of
shoes)

 I always felt woodland is an international classy brand. I as a student aspired for it during
the era of 90’s. It’s advertising was catchy and touched the heart. Finally, when I got the
job, the day I could afford it, I felt on the top of the world. Today I know, what the brand
could achieve in my mind was great. (a senior academician)

 Woodland : Strengths :Family-owned : Family owned companies embody stability and


longevity, Dynamic leadership with an astute business acumen , Strong 2nd leader in the
wings, Third generation on the brink of joining , Brand has been versatile and adapted to
survive, Long and sustained stability and trustworthy. Weakness : Should become more
customer-friendly as a retailer : Losing hold of the youth as many international brands have
entered the fray. Opportunity : To diversify further , Capture the youths imagination ,
Strong distribution and retail hold so penetrate the market latently , Concentrate more on
premium and higher margin , Increase global presence immediately. Threat :Expensive
imports , Losing hold due to international and diversified brands taking positions ( lee
cooper, zara etc)

By Amit Chopra, MD, Shoes n Accessories magazine

 Woodland, was the pioneer in branded footwear in its approach, branding, marketing and
positioning. It was a market leader and a trend setter in the footwear industry. Over last
decade the brand has lost its leadership position and has been loosing it's market share.
My honest words.
By Susil Dungarwal, CEO, Beyond Square-feet, Mall Management company
 If any customer comes to my showroom asking for casual WOODLAND shoe..he will not
go for any other brand inspite explaining good about other brand .but ultimately he will
settle for only woodland....this i hv seen in my retail experience.. .
By Amin, Shoe Wagon, Retailer of Bangalore

 It was a great learning experience working under able guidance of Shri Nathani Ji as he
was a great Tutor of the industry and Woodland laid the platform for me for my future
endeavours as it helped us to enhanced of skills and had great working environment
View of Amit Khanna, ex ASM at Woodland, presently working as GM of Alberto Torresi

 After long time there came a revolution in footwear industry where style was redefined.It
broke the barriers of masses from traditional footwear to something more fashionable,
stylish and durable.It also was the first brand in India to identify with youth .
By Deepak Patil Ex RSM West.Based at Mumbai. Presently consultant with Kewal Kiran
group

 A deep survey about indian brands ethoes and percieved image...concludes..


That india is proud of few indigenous brands created an international image and earned the
trust as well...which are most preffered by millions like..Amul, Royal Enfield, Montecarlo,
Tata, and one and only from Footwear industry..WOODLAND..We are proud to be the
part of inception Team under the guidence of Guru Sir..B.D.Nathani.
View of Prem Madan earlier with Woodland in 90's now an Entrepreneur n CEO of

BEANZ kids footwear brand

 Mr B D Nathani: Woodland is a good consumer centric brand. The products are


comfortable, offer better grip, are durable and mainly good outdoor and all weather
footwear. They also have a good aftermarket service. It's parent company Aero Group is
well known cannadian brand. it entered India in 1992. Today it has over 550 to exclusive
stores and shelf space at over 3000 MBO's. And also present in countries like Hong Kong
and Singapore.
View of IFTEKHAR one of Franchise partner in Bangalore in 95-2005
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