Long Term fortification

Memo
With zombie outbreaks occurring on both the northern and southern regions of the Salt Lake
valley, preparing our civilians for an impending threat is of paramount importance. We are
requesting funds to help our community not only survive this dreaded epidemic, but also to
thrive during perilous times. Our communities are in need of a permanent long-term settlement
to ride out any coming troubles. The sooner we can distribute this information the easier it will
be for people to build their own and not have to rely on the state to provide shelter and supplies.

Our instruction sets and guidelines will include detailed steps on how to:
● Location scouting: the best designed bunker can be a complete failure if you don’t place
it in the right spot.
● Edifying a wall and Defensive Perimeter: Protecting your living quarters is essential for
survival and keeping our people mentally sane during this frightening crisis.
● Creating a bunker: Being secure will also increase survivability if the zombies can't see
or reach you entirely. Having a strong wall and perimeter defense will eliminate the
possibility of a zombie attack within its walls. Knowing the ideal location of where to
rebuild a community or home will allow our valley to maintain its strength and inspire
unity.
● Security: early warnings to threats can be the difference between life and death
● Quality of life: Make your life a little bit easier during these times of crisis. Having a place
of unnecessary worries and keeping each other mentally sane.
 Instructions for Scouting locations in a Zombie Apocalypse

By Kevin Coulam

Introduction
For this set of instructions I will be going over how to scout for a good location to build a bunker.
I will cover the kind of features that will contribute to a bunkers survivability and what will detract
from it.

Location Planning
Hopefully you are reading this before any kind of apocalyptic disaster has happened, as
attempting to find and build a bunker afterwards will be exponentially more difficult. Your first
step in finding the right location is to grab a map and start marking any locations of interest that
have the following features.

Ideal Features
1. Natural Defenses: Depending on the size of the bunker you intend to build you will want
to find a flat piece of land big enough for your bunker, but is also surrounded by difficult
terrain. Such as steep rocky hills, preferably cliffs. The area doesn’t need to be
completely surrounded, but the fewer ways into your area the less places you have to
build defenses for. keep in mind if you pick a place that is completely surrounded you will
have good natural defenses, but will have a difficult time getting in and out for supplies.
2. Easy access to water: You should be looking for an area that either has a river running
through it or one nearby that you could build an aqueduct to transport water to you. You
could attempt to build a well for you water supply, but a river also has the potential option
of providing an electrical source from hydro electric energy generation.
3. Limited access from towns and roads: Although it may sound nice to have a town or road
close by to make collecting supplies easier. It also means that any passing hostile
people or even zombies could more easily find you.

Features to avoid:
1. Bad geographical features: It may sound like a good idea to build at the base of a cliff,
thinking it may provide a natural wall and concealment from being seen at a distance if
searches come from the wrong direction. It also provides an attacker a high ground they
can use to attack you while leaving you limited areas of cover to defend yourself. It is
also a terrible idea in a Zombie apocalypse as a horde of zombies could drop down on
top of you negating all of your well planned and build defenses. Unless of course you
 want to blast the songs “It’s raining men” or “Let the bodies hit the floor” during a zombie
attack.

Good and bad features:

1. Wide open spaces: These areas will give you a great view of your surroundings to spot
any people or zombies that may be trying to sneak up on you, but it will also make you
far more easily discoverable by any body passing by.
2. Dense forest: The opposite of wide open spaces, The trees will provide great cover from
being seen, but will also make spotting hostiles sneaking up on you far more difficult.
Which will make you vulnerable to surprise attacks.
3. The top of an unforested hill: You might be thinking that it will give an advantage with
being able to see everything around you for a great distance, but it falls in the Same boat
as wide open spaces. Except that you are more visible from greater distances as well.
So unless you think your defenses are strong enough to repel any attack from hostile
humans or large hordes of zombies I would avoid these areas as well.

Reflection on feedback:
In my instruction set i wrote about how to find an ideal location to build a bunker. The feedback
received was mostly positive. With people saying there was plenty of examples of the kinds of
features to look for and the kind to avoid. Two suggestions I received were to add other
geographical locations or to suggest a few locations that I felt would be good places.

I liked both suggestions, but decided to keep the features I was talking about related to what
you would find in the northern part of Utah. as for the example locations, I unfortunately did not
have the time to dig deep in google maps to find spots. What i did change in my instruction set
was to add more details as to why the features I listed were good or bad.

Edifying a Secure Wall and Defensive Perimeter:

By Zack Stidham

Your world just flipped upside down and now all you really care about is protecting your family,
loved ones, and yourself. However, you’ve never even considered a need for turning your yard
and home into a fortress, much less how or where to start. These instructions are a perfect
guide on helping you live undetected by the Zombies, protect your belongings, allow you to
focus on other important tasks and most importantly, help you sleep comfortably at night.
Completion of these instructions greatly depends on the materials you can collect, thorough
planning, and precise measurements.

​Get out of sight: if you are not in their line of vision, Zombies will not generally be drawn to
you. In order to prevent any threat from getting near you or your home it is important to build a
firm wall around the area you wish to protect and call home. Building a wall is the perfect way to
keep them back and you alive.

o​ T
​ emporary wall:

● Anything you can use to create a quick barrier. Materials most effective can be Sheet
metal or steel roofing.
○ Create a crude fence line by placing several posts outside of your designated
walled off area. Typically fence posts are about 6-8 feet apart. Again, don’t worry
about strength and durability yet, just create some breathing room and prevent
zombies from seeing you.
○ Try to be as quiet as possible while working due to the unknown functionality of a
zombies hearing.
○ Between the posts run either picket fence segments, chain link fence with tarps
draped over them, sheet metal, steel roof segments, brick, or anything else that
will prevent zombies from reaching you while you construct the permanent wall.

o​ P
​ ermanent wall:

● Organizing your lay out.

○ Plan exactly where you want to set the posts and how long and wide the fence
will be.
■ Measure out the distances between posts accurately and mark the spot
by staking or painting the measured distance to help you find these
measurements again later. Staying consistent will make the wall easier to
construct. The posts should be 6 to 8 feet apart. In addition, the post hole
needs to have a diameter 3 times larger than the diameter of your post.
(ex: a 4 inch thick post needs a hole with a 12 inch wide diameter)
■ you need to know beforehand what material and its dimensions you will
be using as your posts. weather you choose to place wooden lumber,
Metal posts or large branches from a tree; measuring and knowing their
height is crucial. It is important to note that for constructing a sturdy fence,
plan on digging the hole of the post to be about ½ of your post length (ex:
an 8-foot-tall fence needs at least a 3 or 4-foot-deep post hole, meaning
your post itself should be around 11 or 12 feet long).
■ Take into consideration where you will have your exit/entrance. Also
include some form of emergency exit if the main entrance becomes
inaccessible.
○ Avoid any gas lines or pipes so that you won't cause dangerous fumes and
flooding to leak in the vicinity of where you wish to live. 811 most likely will not be
 available to aid you, so we recommend that you dig slow and make adjustments
as needed.

● Begin Construction.
○ Start with your first corner post.
■ You will need to have gathered all of your material by now so that you
can work as quickly and safely as possible, due to inevitable noise
caused by the construction, zombies will be attracted to your work site.
Prepare accordingly in advance.
■ To dig the post hole a Seymour or Auger is obviously ideal (construction
tools used to quickly and effectively dig post holes) If you don’t have one
available, you’ll have to get creative and busy with a shovel. You want
your hole to be 3X the diameter of your post (ex: a 3 inch wide post
requires a hole with a 9 inch wide diameter) After digging the corner hole,
make sure again that you measure consistently 6 to 8 feet apart between
the rest of the posts. I recommend measuring from the center of one hole
to the center of the next to keep an accurate frequency.
■ After all the post holes are excovated, fill the bottom 6 inches of each
post hole with gravel or cement. This is to provide the needed moisture
drainage and add significant sturdiness to each post.
■ Next place the post in the hole and have someone support it straight up
(or build a brace to hold it) and pour in cement. Filling the hole with
cement weill give the post strength and guarantee that your wall stays
erect. If cement is not available to you, a lower quality version can be
made by combining and mixing large amounts of ash with small amounts
of water until a thick consistency is formed. Bake the resulted “clay” and
then add a little more water and ground up rock (refined dirt essentially),
immediately fill the hole with the resulting cement. The posts will need to
be supported while in the hole until your cement is completely cured.
Repeat this process for all other posts.
■ Attach horizontal rails that run between posts. Rails should be connected
to at least 2 different posts, but can attach to more if the rails are long
enough. Attach at least 3 rails to run in-between each post, one on the
top, another in the middle, and another slightly above the ground near the
bottom of each post. To attach the rail you will need to place a nail on the
rail so that when hammered through the wooden rail, the point of the nail
will then enter into the post behind it and firmly secure both together. I
recommend using at least 2 nails for each join in which a rail will attach to
a post. If using metal rails and posts, you will need to plan on using
screws and carving a tight hole for each screw into the post before.
Adding additional rails will significantly strengthen your barricade. (At this
 point your wall should resemble a barnyard fence, with spaces between
each rail so that they form something like this ###)
■ Lastly, place pickets or metal sheets onto each of the rails so that they
run parallel with the posts (vertically). Wooden pickets, or the material
used to run between these pickets, need to be secured to each of the rails
it comes in contact with. Run the pickets around the entire perimeter and
limit the spacing between as much as possible to add strength. Braces
can be attached at a 90 degree angle from within to add an extra strength
to the wall if desired.

Bunker Building
Shane Bronson

Having a functional bunker as a preventative measure against zombies is possibly the most
imperative assets our communities could have. Such a settlement would also provide shelter in
the event of war or economic downturn. In this instruction set we will not discuss simple home
remodeling; the purpose of this section is for competent individuals to be equipped with ample
knowledge for the planning and construction of a permanent settlement.

1. Know Your Location

As we should suspect, not all environments are created equal. We stand by Kevin
Coulam’s criteria for a well-placed establishment. Optimal areas are described as areas
of higher ground that are difficult to traverse, as well as having direct access to water
and supplies. Paper maps are indispensable for this application. High population areas
are NOT optimal for bunker construction purposes.

2. Material Choice
To prevent against zombie attacks, our bunker must have the outsides completely
sealed in approved zombie-proof materials, which consists of very strong, durable,
sturdy, gapless materials. Strong metals such as steel or iron, as well as concrete
constantly prove to be the most dependable and efficient use of materials, so stick to
these. The bunker’s intended duration must also be a consideration. In expectation of a
small outbreak one might consider more cost effective options like concrete, which may
chip or crack overtime, while bunkers intended for long term use may prefer hard metal.
3. Construction Planning
The number of people being housed, facilities and supplies required are all great
considerations when committing to a layout for a bunker. Any of these factors can
drastically change the requirements of the settlement. Factors like food storage or
escape routes should not be overlooked. The skills of your community must be
considered, an independent community may be able to be self-sufficient, whereas
groups with lesser means may need to fund outside efforts, and maintain a larger
storage unit. Height and depth of the bunker construction are also important for our
vision to the outside world and also our safety. Also plan for trap doors and emergency
exits. There is no such thing as 100% zombie proof, so we must take all precautions.
Ziplines and slides make for an easy one-way-out escape in the event that the bunker is
overrun with zombies.Mark all exits and ensure all residents are made aware of the
fastest escape routes or doors from any given location. Let both height or depth
requirements influence the design; a bunker above ground has more visibility, although
an underground bunker may appear less visible, and one can always dig deeper.
 -------

Security
By Zach McCray

Power
We rely on Rocky Mountain Power (RMP) for our electricity. Kemmerer, WY is powered by RMP
and, although they’ve had a recent outbreak, still have power in the region. RMP does have a
geothermal facility in Blundell, UT. However, in case we lose power we encourage citizens to
legally obtain or make the best use of any consumer or commercial solar panels they may have
at their disposal as well as moderate or rare usage of any generators (due to noise and lack of
fuel).
People or groups with access to powered CCTV security camera systems should make the
most of it by having at least two people take turns watching the cameras at all times. Powered
alarm systems should be deactivated to avoid attracting unwanted attention (for more
information on alarms, see ​Alarms​).
If you are in a safe area and when possible, make one immediate stop to restock any kind of
power you may need (ie. gasoline, lighter fluid, batteries, etc.) and return to your shelter
promptly. Use your resources sparingly to reduce trips for fuel or electricity.

People
Hopefully by this point you’ve either met some survivors or escaped with your loved ones. But
even after you’ve found or made a good shelter from the elements and infected, there are still
other things to consider if you want to keep your shelter safe:

● Are you alone or in a group?

● Have you checked your location for any points of entry you may have missed (ie. doors,
windows, broken walls, holes in building or fence, etc.)?
● What resources do you see available? (ie. food, water, weapons, ammunition, fuel, tools,
etc.)
● If you’re in a group:
○ Are the others in your group responsible and trustworthy?
○ Has anyone been acting erratic, quiet, sick, withdrawn or confrontational?
○ Is anyone having a particularly hard time coping with current events?
○ Who is armed with a weapon? Is it concealed?
 ○ Do you suspect anyone steals or is violent?
○ Is there anyone in the group who is weak or vulnerable like a child or elderly
person?

Everyone must consider these questions when dealing with the safety and security of others as
a group. Therefore, it is crucial that ​some level of trust​ be reached among party members who
choose to stick it out together. Everyone should be made aware of each other’s mental and
emotional health and check-in occasionally to prevent any violent or emotional outbursts.
Failure to do so could jeopardize the entire group.

What are other ways we can keep each other safe?

● Stay calm. It makes you more focused and reliable. This is valuable as a group.
● Sleeping areas should be close together so attacks during sleep will alert others.
● Try to spend a majority of the time in the innermost areas of your shelter and avoid
making noise.
● Don’t gossip or sow seeds of distrust. Only address vital concerns with leaders or the
ones you trust most and avoid creating unnecessary drama.
Perimeter

Be sure to observe your surroundings and safely check the perimeter of your base for any blind
spots and unseen breaks in your defences. You want to be able to view every area of your
bunker. This not only keeps you aware of zombie conditions but can prevent hostile citizens
from invading your shelter. Although windows should be boarded up, make a note of which
areas are best to observe the outside without being seen.
This knowledge is necessary for an escape plan during an emergency. Find exit points in your
shelter that are the least populated or have the clearest path to an open area. Avoid exits that
are crammed, crowded and overall shrouded.

Bunker sizes
Small:​ Single rooms, single-story homes, gas stations, etc.
Medium:​ Large buildings with wider areas and/or more than one floor
Large:​ Areas with one or more large buildings, generally contained within a fence or gate.
Expandability is important when there are enough trusted members to help expand.
A.
B.

A. Diagram of which walls can be seen from which areas of the building. About 100%
coverage.
B. Points of entry, typical camera field-of-view and threat level of intruder.

High ground​ is important to have in surveying large areas for zombies from a distance. Use of
binoculars is important, and if you have a watch tower available or have made one, someone
should ​always​ be in it. This is a valuable resource. Take turns watching as you would a security
camera system (even taking turns staying up at night).
Escape routes​ should be more hidden, either underground or through buildings areas without
windows and doors whenever possible.
Traps

Cheval de frise
Used in medieval times to defend against cavalry, the cheval de frise is an effective defense
against zombie hordes as well.

1. Collect wood
2. Sharpen 5' spikes out of wood
3. Create an “X” shape out of 2-3 wooden spikes. Repeat this for the rest of the spikes and
line them up together. Works great with barbed wire.
4. Stand spikes in front of pathways to block off zombies.

Examples:
 Ground spikes
Although a hazard for innocent residents, ground spikes can both trap, harm and/or kill
unsuspecting zombies or other hostile intruders to your base.

1. Collect sharp objects like (like wooden spikes from the cheval de frise)
2. Dig a hole where you suspect only zombies and no innocents will walk over
3. Stick spikes pointing up at the bottom of the hole
4. Cover hole with weak sticks, leaves, pine needles, and other foliage to hide the hole
(Remember where you made the trap!)

Alarms
Can Alarms

1. Collect empty cans and string

2. Punch holes in the cans
3. Thread the string through the holes in the cans
4. Tie knots in the cans to keep them from sliding around. (if the hole is too big, tie the
string around the can).
5. Hang the cans on string from areas where zombies could pass through. This way, you
hear them at their position without sounding an alarm to your current position.
Storage areas
● Food:​ AVOID PACKAGED FOOD!​ ​There has been a recall on a preservative called ​C88
which is allegedly connected to the outbreak.
● Weapons:​ Keep sharp and blunt melee weapons (ie. knife, bat, etc.) at arms length
while storing firearms away from unsafe individuals

Reflection on feedback:

The feedback I received was mostly about the ​cheval de frise,​ which is understandable because
even​ I ​had to look up the name of it when coming up with instructions (nobody uses that phrase,
I just thought they were "zombie spikes"). Otherwise, it appears my instructions were relatively
easy to understand. I was sure to include some pictures in case some people had trouble
visualizing the ideas I tried to convey in my writing.
I actually took the advice of explaining what the traps were because in retrospect having
instructions for something that someone hasn't even heard of is not very useful. Also, an
introductory explanation lends well to the overall way the instructions look.
------

Build a table instruction set

By Jenson Hernandez

WIth this instruction set the end goal is to make a sturdy and stable table/work bench. During a
zombie apocalypse not all the necessary tools and materials are going to be available, but we’ll
use tools and materials which could be found around. The necessary tools you are going to
need are wood boards, a hammer/rock, and nails. Assuming there’s trees to cut down and make
boards from, this build will need wood.

● Material:
○ Wood
● Tools:
○ Hammer/rock
○ Lots of Nails = dots on pictures
● Preparation:
○ A​: 7 - 2” Height x 4” Width x 84” Length wooden boards
○ B​: 4 - 2” Height x 4” Width x 42” Length wooden boards
○ C​: 3 - 1” Height x 4” Width x 28” Length wooden boards
○ D​: 2 - 2” Height x 4” Width x 24” Length wooden boards
○ F​: 1 - 2” Height x 4” Width x 76” Length wooden boards
Step 1: ​As part of the preparation, wood will need to be cut into the measurements given
above.

Step 2:​ Once cut, line up the 7 A boards in a vertical fashion on the ground next to each other
individually as such:

Step 3: ​Take the 3 C boards and place them under the 7 A boards on the north, south and
center.. Place them horizontal so the C boards are under all the A boards on one side. This will
be called the back side of the table.

Step 4: ​The length of the nails will matter because we don’t want them going too far into the
wood making it split. Now take 14 nails and nail the north side of the A boards individually to the
C board with 2 nails per board. These nails are supposed to pierce the C boards in order to stick
together you’re going to do the same thing with the center and south of the A boards. C boards
should be behind the center and south of the A boards. Remember to do 2 nails per board going
into a C board.
Step 5: ​Next we are going to flip the whole thing around. For the next few steps we’re going to
require the assistance of 1 or 2 people. We are going to put on the B boards with the A and C
boards on top.

Step 6: ​With the 4 B boards you place them on top of the C boards in a vertical fashion pointing
straight into the air on each corner. We have 4 B boards only because we want 1 for each
corner.

Step 7: ​Where the B board meets with the C board, smash in a nail diagonally hitting the B and
C boards. For this step I would do 2 nails on each corner where the B and C boards connect.
Do one nail diagonally for each side of the B board connecting to the C board. You’re going to
do this for all 4 corners of the table.
Step 8:​ The diagonal nails are not the only support we are going to need. Next you’re going to
flip the whole table to the front side. With the front side facing towards you, grab 4 long nails and
begin hammering them in the top left corner where the B boards are under the A boards. Your
goal here is to get that nail through the A, C and B boards in order for the table to hold together.
Now begin hammering 4 more long nails per corner until they are completely in. The front side
of the table should look like this:

Step 9: ​Now it should look more like a table. Flip the whole table around with the front side
facing the ground and the back side facing you. This next step we're going to put more support
on the legs. Keep your table facing horizontal on the ground towards you, D boards will be used
for the next step.

Step 10: ​Now take 1 D board and place it in between the top left corner leg and bottom left leg
long ways. This board should be the connection between the top left peg and bottom left leg.
Place the D board on the center of the legs to keep them leveled.
Step 11: ​Hammer 4 nails in the top left leg in center with the intent of going through to the D
board. Making the nails hold the D board in between the top left leg and bottom leg. Do the
same with 4 different nails on the bottom left leg going through the B boards with the intent of
piercing the D board to hold the connection. Now repeat this process with the two remaining
legs.

Step 12: ​Keep the table on the ground for now. The whole purpose of the F board is for
additional support. These measurements were cut to be able to connect everything together
without any additional wood pieces. The F board will go in between the 2 D boards in the center
of them. The F board should be placed horizontally so it can reach both D Boards. The F board
should be placed facing the floor and not upright. Now the final nails in the coffin(pun intended)
should be placed on the D boards across each other. When the F board meets with the D board
is where you're going to hammer in 4 nails. First through the D board then piercing the F board
in order to hold together. 4 nails in a square fashion going through the D board and into the F
board. Repeat this process on the other end with the D and F board.

Other purposes:

Once the table is constructed it doesn’t only have 1 primary

purpose. You can modify the table to have other purposes
like barriers or trap doors. Like the old doors of an ancient
tomb, you can add spikes to the front of the board to prevent
anyone from getting too close.
 Reflection feedback of instruction set:

The feedback I received from my 2 co-workers was overall really good. One thing they pointed
out was how much wording I had for every step. I tried to go for a more detailed approach, but
they said it could be dumbed down a little bit for a shorter instruction set. They did mention how
the prepared pre-measurement boards were good because planning out the right
measurements can be a pain.

The pictures did do its job to visualize what we were creating, but they could’ve gone a long way
on some of the other steps just because it can get a little confusing on where exactly to place
something. I did struggle with the fact that they said the instruction set could be dumbed down a
little because I wanted to be as detailed as possible in order to not have any confusion around.