Indo-Global Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 2011, Vol 1., Issue 1: Page No.

77-84 77

INDO GLOBAL
JOURNAL OF
PHARMACEUTICAL
SCIENCES

Formulation & Evaluation of Curcuminoid Based Herbal Face

Cream
Sahu Alakh N *a, Jha Sb and Dubey S Dc
a
Department of Pharmaceutics, I.T, Banaras Hindu University, Varanasi-221005, India
b
Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Birla Institute of Technology. MESRA, Ranchi, India
c
Department of Dravyaguna, Faculty of Ayurveda, IMS, Banaras Hindu University, Varanasi-221005, India
Received: 08th Dec. 2010; Accepted: 09th Jan 2011
Address for Correspondance: ansahu.phe@itbhu.ac.in

Abstract— Formulation of herbal cosmeceutical in the form of a face cream has been done. Curcuminoids from Curcuma

domestica Val. (turmeric) has been incorporated in the formulation. Pharmacognostical standardization of turmeric has been

done as per Indian Herbal Pharmacopoeia [IHP]-2002 to ensure the genuinity of the crude turmeric rhizomes. It includes

taxonomical authentication, morphological characterization, powdered drug microscopy, identification tests of turmeric

powder and quantitative standards - that are foreign organic matter(0.43%), alcoholic soluble extractive (7.36%), water

soluble extractive (20.32%), total ash(8.46%), acid insoluble ash (0.76%) and loss on drying (12.52%). All the quantitative

standard values are in compliance with IHP-2002. Turmeric rhizome powder has been extracted with methanol and curcumin

content in the methanolic extract has been quantified spectrophotometrically. It has yielded 3.79 g of curcumin per 100 g of

turmeric rhizome powder. Stearic acid cream base has been used to incorporate standardized methanolic extract in isopropyl

alcohol, triethanolamine, almond oil, light liquid paraffin oil, moisturizer conditioner and cetyl alcohol. Evaluation of

formulated cream with parameters - type of emulsion, ashing at 600 oC, pH, homogeneity and sensory parameters has been

conducted. Accelerated stability testing of 16 prepared formulations has been conducted at elevated temperature of 40 oC ± 1
o
C for 20 days. 4 out of 16 products have shown stability with no signs of bleeding and no change in the color of the product.

The Draize test for sensitivity testing has shown that the stable formulations are safe in respect to skin irritation and allergic

sensitization. © 2011 IGJPS. All rights reserved

Keywords : Curcuminoids, Cosmeceutical, Spectrophotometer, Standardization

78 Indo Global Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Vol 1; Issue 1: Page No. 77-84

INTRODUCTION

Herbal cosmetics are the products in which herbs are used in crude or extract form [1] .The basic idea of skin care cosmetic lies deep in

the Rigveda, Yajurveda, Ayurveda, Unani and Homeopathic system of medicine[2].In this modern era, the knowledge and experience

of usage of herbs are being blend with advanced cosmetic technology to develop a safe and elegant beauty product, which has wider

range of people acceptability. Basically it is beauty invented by nature and perfected through technology. Herbs have the advantage of

having no or least adverse effect and have a wide spectrum of consumer compliance. The herbal cosmetic market has a share of almost

Rs 200 crores out of an estimated Rs 2000 crores of total cosmetic industry in the country. The total cosmetic market is growing at the

rate of 20-25% per annum. Out of this growth about 60% is that of herbal cosmetic segment [1]. Non-Governmental Organization and

self-experience exposes the fact that turmeric is being exploited from unaware and poor farmers of Jharkhand region. Further it depicts

that one glass full of rice is exchanged for one glass full of turmeric powder by multinational companies and large scale industries.

The traditional methodology used for cultivation of turmeric provides us rhizomes which are organic certified and hence extremely

safe to be used in cosmetics. Formulation of herbal cosmeceutical in the form of a face cream is the ultimate objective of the study.

The formulation may provide better return for their cultivated turmeric.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

1. Pharmacognostical standardization
The turmeric rhizomes were collected from the local market of BIT Mesra, Chaibasa and Saraikela in the state of Jharkhand in the

month of August and September, identified and authenticated by Dr. S. Jha, Reader in Pharmacognosy, Department of Pharmaceutical

Sciences, BIT Mesra, Ranchi. The voucher specimen (BIT.-109) was deposited in herbarium of the same department.Morphological

and organoleptic characters of turmeric rhizome were carried out. Quantitative standards of turmeric powder that were determination

of foreign organic matter, extractives: both alcohol soluble extractives and water soluble extractives, ash content: both total ash and

acid insoluble ash, loss on drying were carried out as per IHP–2002 methods and compared with IHP–2002 standards.

2. Isolation and quantification of curcumin

Turmeric rhizome powder was defatted in petroleum ether (60-80) for 3 hours and then extracted with methanol in soxhlet apparatus

for 4 hours. Curcumin in methanolic extract was quantified spectrophotometrically at 425 nm [3]

3. Formulation
The formulation components used were listed in Table 2. Moisturizer conditioner was mixture of propylene glycol: glycerin: sorbitol

:: 2:1:1. All aqueous soluble ingredients were dissolved in water and all oil soluble ingredients were mixed at 75 oC ± 5 oC in separate

beakers. The aqueous phase was then added to oil phase slowly with constant stirring. Perfume was added when the temperature

dropped to 45 oC ± 50 oC. As many as 16 formulations were prepared by varying the concentration of different ingredients. Out of

these 4 most physically stable formulations, studied for 7 days at room temperature, were chosen for accelerated stability test [4-6].
 Indo Global Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Vol 1; Issue 1: Page No. 77-84 79
4. Evaluation

Type of emulsion:
Dye method: A portion of the product was taken in a watch glass. To that water soluble dye (methylene blue) was added, mixed

properly and observed under microscope [7-8]

Dilution method: Fixed amount of cream was diluted with water and mineral oil separately [7-8]

Filter paper method: A streak of the cream was applied on the filter paper [7-8]

Ash: Product was taken in a flat –bottom platinum dish and ashing was done at 600 ˚C in muffle furnace [1]

Accelerated stability test:

Accelerated stability testing of prepared formulations was conducted for 4 most stable formulations at room temperature, studied for 7

days. They were formulation number 6, 9, 13 and 14 at 40 oC ± 1 oC for 20 days. The formulations were kept both at room and

elevated temperature and observed on 0th, 5th, 10th, 15th and 20th day for the following parameters [1]:

pH:

10% w/v suspension of the cream was prepared with water and the pH was measured using pH meter.

Homogeneity:

The formulations were tested for the homogeneity by visual appearance and by touch.

Appearance:

The appearance of the cream was judged by its color, pearlscence and roughness and graded.

Rubout:

It included spreadability and wetness. A fixed amount of cream was applied on dorsal skin surface of human volunteer and the

properties were observed.

After feel:

Emolliency, slipperiness and amount of residue left after the application of fixed amount of cream was checked.

Type of smear:

After application of cream, the type of film or smear formed on the skin were checked.

Removal:

The ease of removal of the cream applied was examined by washing the applied part with tap water.

Draize skin sensitivity test:

The cream was applied on shaved intact skin of albino rabbits and examined for any changes on the skin after 24 hours [1].
80 Indo Global Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Vol 1; Issue 1: Page No. 77-84

RESULTS

The shape of turmeric was unevenly cylindrical, short-branched finger like. The size of turmeric was 2-6 cm long and 1-2 cm diameter

with root scar; surface texture was rough with regular annulations. Color of turmeric was outer yellow to light yellow, inner yellow

to orange; odour was aromatic; taste was astringent and slightly bitter; internode spacing was 0.6 – 1.0 cm. The node regularity was

rarely regular. The results obtained for quantitative standards had complied with the IHP-2002 which has been shown in Table 1. The

yield of curcumin per 100 g of turmeric rhizome powder was 3.79 g. The formulated cream was O/W type as confirmed from dye,

dilution and filter paper method of testing of emulsion. There was no ash of the cream when ashing was done at 600 ˚C in muffle

furnace. The results of accelerated stability test have been shown in Table 3. The Draize test for sensitivity testing results had shown

that all the 4 formulations were safe in respect to skin irritation and allergic sensitization.

Parameters IHP-2002 standard Obtained value

Foreign organic matter Not more than 2.0% 0.43 %

Alcohol soluble extractive Not less than 8.0% 7.36 %

Water soluble extractive Not less than 12.0% 20.32 %

Total Ash Not more than 9.0% 8.46 %

Acid insoluble ash Not more than 1.0% 0.76 %

Loss on drying ------- 12.52 %

Table 1: Quantitative standards

 Indo Global Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Vol 1; Issue 1: Page No. 77-84 81

Sl.
Ingredients Formula % w/w
No.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
Methanolic
extract dried and
1.
soln. in IPA (40 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
mg/ml)
Stearic acid
2. 10 10 10 10 10 10 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12
Triethanolamine
3. 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60
Almond oil
4. 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Mineral oil
5. 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3 3 3 3 3 2.5 2.5 2.5
Moisturizer
6. 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12
conditioner
Cetyl alcohol
7. - 4 3 2.5 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
Methyl paraben
8. 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 - - - 0.18 0.18 0.18 -
Propyl paraben
9. 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 - - - 0.02 0.02 0.02 -
Sodium
10. 0.1 0.1 - 0.1 - 0.1 - 0.1 0.1 0.1 - 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 -
metabsisulfite
EDTA
11. 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 - 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 - 0.1 0.1 0.1 -
Water, qs, 100
12. qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs
Table 2: Composition of turmeric extract based face cream

IPA: Isopropyl alcohol; EDTA: Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid

82 Indo Global Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Vol 1; Issue 1: Page No. 77-84

Days Temperature Formulation Parameters

pH Homogenity Appearance Spreadability After Type of Removal

feel smear
6 6.43 ** P, 8M100Y ** E NG ES

RT 9 6.52 ** P, 6M100Y ** E NG ES

0 13 6.49 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES

14 6.61 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES

6 6.43 ** P, 8M100Y ** E NG ES

RT 9 6,51 ** P, 6M100Y * E NG ES
5
13 6.51 ** P,7M100Y ** E NG ES

14 6.62 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES

6 6.44 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES

40 oC + 1 oC 9 6.51 ** P, 6M100Y ** E NG ES

13 6.50 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES

14 6.62 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES

6 6.44 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES

RT 9 6.51 ** P, 6M100Y ** E NG ES
10
13 6.51 ** P, 7M100Y * E NG ES

14 6.62 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES

6 6.44 ** P, 5M100Y ** E NG ES

40 oC + 1 oC 9 6.52 ** P, 6M100Y ** E NG ES

13 6.52 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES

14 6.63 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES

Continued…………..
 Indo Global Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Vol 1; Issue 1: Page No. 77-84 83

Parameters

Days Tempe- Formul-

rature ations pH Homog- Appea-rance Spreada- After Type of Removal
enity bility feel smear

6 6.44 ** P, 5M100Y ** E NG ES
9 6.52 ** P, 6M100Y ** E NG ES
RT 13 6.51 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES
14 6.63 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES
15 6 6.44 ** P, 5M100Y ** E NG ES
9 6.51 ** P, 6M100Y ** E NG ES
40 oC + 1 oC 13 6.51 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES
14 6.63 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES
6 6.44 ** P, 5M100Y ** E NG ES
9 6.53 ** P, 6M100Y ** E NG ES
RT 13 6.51 ** P, 6M100Y * E NG ES
14 6.64 ** P, 7M100Y ** E NG ES
20 40 oC + 1 oC 6 6.44 ** P, 5M100Y ** E NG ES
9 6.53 * P, 6M100Y ** E NG ES
13 6.51 ** P, 6M100Y ** E NG ES
14 6.64 ** P, 6M100Y ** E NG ES
Table 3: Accelerated stability testing

**: Good, *: Satisfactory, P: Pearlescent, E: Emollient, NG: Non greasy, ES: Easy

Color index: 8M 100Y:- Intense bright yellow color, 7M 100Y: -Moderate bright yellow color, 6M 100Y:- Less bright yellow color
RT: Room temperature

DISCUSSION
The marketed turmeric creams are mainly for cosmetic use. They do not provide the information regarding the quantity of

curcuminoids in the formulation. The obtained quantitative standards of turmeric rhizomes confirms with the stated standards in IHP-

2002. This supports their use for the purpose of formulation. The herbal face cream was O/W type emulsion, hence can be easily

washed with plane water that gives better customer compliance. No ash formation indicated absence of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide,

salts of chlorides, sulphates and phosphates. Products formulated with phase inversion technique had produced finer internal phase

and showed more physical stability in long storage condition. Out of 16 formulations 4 were stable with no signs of bleeding and

change in color of the product. These formulations had almost constant pH, homogeneous, pearlescent, emollient, non-greasy and

easily removed after the application. The stable formulations were safe in respect to skin irritation and allergic sensitization. The

prepared herbal face cream is intended for cosmeceutical use rather than as mere cosmetic. It contains curcuminoids as anti-oxidant,

curcumin as bactericide, anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory agent. Hence it is beneficial to normal human keratinocytes.
84 Indo Global Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Vol 1; Issue 1: Page No. 77-84

CONCLUSION
The formulated turmeric based herbal face cream is a cosmeceutical that contains quantified amount of curcuminoids. It is safe and

stable too.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I am thankful to Dr. S.Jha for his precious guidance and suggestions.

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