Desaliza, Kathlene Mae D.

BSED ENGLISH 2

Floro, Ma. Carol G

Written Report

on

Rizal’s Grand Tour of Europe with Viola (1887)

After the publication of the Noli, Rizal planned to visit the important places in
Europe. Dr. Maximo Viola agreed to be his traveling companion. Rizal had received
Paciano’s remittance of P1000 which was forwarded by Juan Luna from Paris. He
immediately paid Viola the sum of P300 which the latter kindly loaned so that the Noli
could be printed. Having paid his debt and with the adequate funds in his pocket, he
was ready to see Europe before returning to Calamba. First, he and Viola visited
Postdam, a city near Berlin , which Frederick the great made famous.

The Tour Begins.

At dawn of May 11, 1887, Rizal and Viola, two-brown-skinned doctors on a

roaming spree, left Berlin by train. It was an ideal season for travel. Spring was in the
air, and all over Europe the flowers were blooming, the meadows were turning green,
and the villages were humming with activity. According to Viola , the luggage of Rizal
included all the letters he had received from his (Rizal’s) family and friends. Their
destination was Dresden, “one of the best cities in Germany.”

Dresden.

Rizal and Viola tarried for some time in Dresden. Their visit coincided with the
regional floral exposition. Rizal, who was interested in Botany, studied the “numerous
plant varieties of extraordinary size and beauty.” They visited Dr. Adolph B. Meyer, who
was overjoyed to see them. In the Museum of Art, which they also visited, Rizal was
deeply impressed by a painting of “Prometheus Bound” and recalled seeing a
representation of the same idea in an art gallery in Paris.

First Meeting with Blumentritt.

At 1:30 pm of May 13, of 1887, the train,with Rizal and Viola on board, arrived at
the railroad station of Leitmeritz, Bohemia. Professor Blumentritt, who had received
their wire , was at the station.He was carrying a pencil sketch of Rizal which the latter
had previously sent him, so that he could identify his Filipino friend. He warmly received
Rizal and Viola.

Beautiful Memories of Leitmeritz.

Rizal had beautiful memories of his visit. He enjoyed the warm hospitality of the
Blumentritt family. The professor’s wife Rosa,was a good cook, and she prepared
special Austrian dishes which Rizal liked very much.

One afternoon he invited them to a beer garden where the best beer of Bohemia
was served. At a near table there was a lively discussion among the drinkers about the
advisability of having the railroad pass through a neighboring town. One of the men in
the group was the burgomaster (town mayor) Blumentritt knew the burgomaster, so that
he approached the party and delightfully introduced his two Filipino friends. Rizal talked
in fluent German, for which reason the burgomaster and his friends were amazed. The
burgomaster asked Rizal how long it took him to learn German. And Rizal replied
:“Eleven months , sir.”

Rizal, desiring to commemorate his happy hours at the Blumentritt home, painted
a portrait of the kind professor and gave it to him. Blumentritt was pleased with the gift.
On their last night in Leitmeritz, Rizal and Viola, to reciprocate Blumentritt’s hospitality,
tendered a banquet- a farewell dinner- in his honorat their hotel.

On May 16, at 9:45 A.M., Rizal and Viola left Leitmeritz by train. Rizal carried
unto his grave the beautiful memories of his visit to Leitmeritz. In a letter to Blumentritt,
written in Vienna on May 24, 1887, Rizal expressed his and viola’s concern for the
illness of Dora, the professor’s little daughter ,”Viola and I” thus Rizal wrote, “are very
sadbecause our little friend Dora is sick. We still remember her little blue eyes; we hear
her merry laughter, and we see her little teeth. Poor Dorita! I saw her run after us when
the train was leaving! With all my heart I wish her prompt recovery.”

Prague.

After Leitmeritz, Rizal and Viola visited the historic city of Prague.They carried
letters of recommendation from Blumentritt to Dr. Willkomm, professor of Natural History
in the University of Prague. The good professor and his charming wife and daughters
welcomed them and showed them the city’s historic spots.

Rizal and Viola visited the tomb of Copernicus, the famous astronomer; the
museum of natural history; the bacteriological laboraties; the famous cave where San
Juan Nepomuceno, Catholic saint, was imprisoned; and the bridge from which this saint
was hurled into the river.

After saying good-bye to Professor Willkomm and his family, the two tourists
went to Brunn. According to Viola, “nothing of importance happened” in this city.

Vienna.

On May 20, Rizal and Viola arrived in the beautiful city of Vienna, capital of
Austria-Hungary. Famous in song and story, this city fascinated Rizal because of its
beautiful buildings , religious images , haunting waltzes , and majestic charm. Vienna
was truly the “Queen of the Danube.”

Rizal and Viola, armed with a letter of recommendation from Blumentritt, met Norfenfals,
one of the greatest novelists in Europe during that time. This great Austrian novelist was
favourably impressed by Rizal, and years later he spoke highly of Rizal, “whose genius
he so much admired.”

Rizal and Viola stayed at Hotel Metropole. They visited the city’s interesting places,
such as churches, museums , art galleries, theaters, and public parks. They met two
good friends of Blumentritt- Masner and Nordmann Austrian scholars.
Danubian Voyage to Lintz.

On May 24, Rizal and Viola left Vienna on a river boat to see the beautiful sights
of the Danube river. As they travelled along the famous river, Rizal observed keenly the
river sights-the barges loaded with products, the flowers and plants growing along the
river banks, the boats with families on them, and the quaint villages on the river sides.

From Lintz to Rheinfall.

The river voyage ended in Lintz. They travelled overland to Salzburg, and from
there to Munich where they sojourned for a short time to savor the famous Munich beer,
reputed to be the best in Germany.

From Munich, they went to Nuremberg , one of the oldest cities in Germany.
Among the sights which they saw in this city were the horrible torture machines used by
the inquisition. Rizal examined carefully these torture machines. He and Viola were
impressed by the manufacture of dolls which was the biggest industry of the city.

After Munich, they visited Ulm. The cathedral of the city was “the largest and
tallest in all Germany.” Viola related that he and Rizal climbed its many hundred steps.

From Ulm, they went to Stuttgart, Baden , and the Rheinfall (Cascade of the
Rhein). At Rheinfall, they saw the waterfall, “the most beautiful waterfall of Europe”.

Crossing the Frontier to Switzerland.

From Rheinfall, they crossed the frontier to Schaff, Switzerland. They stayed in
the city from June 2 to 3, 1887. They continued their tour to Basel (Bale), Bern, and
Leusanne.

Geneva.

After sightseeing in Leusanne, Rizal and Viola left on a little boat, crossing the
foggy Leman lake to Geneva. This Swiss city is one of the most beautiful cities in
Europe, visited by world tourists every year. The people of Geneva were linguists,
speaking French, German, and Italian. Rizal conversed with them in these three
languages.

On June 19, 1887, Rizal treated Viola to a blow-out. It was his 26th birthday,
according to a Filipino custom , he celebrated his birthday with a sumptuous meal.

Rizal and Viola spent fifteen delightful days in Geneva. On June 23, they parted
ways- Viola returned to Barcelona while Rizal continued the tour to Italy.

Rizal Resents Exhibition of Igorots in 1887 Madrid Exposition.

While Rizal, accompanied by Dr. Viola, was happily touring Europe, an

exposition of the Philippines was held in Madrid, Spain. Upon reaching Geneva
(Switzerland), he received sad news from his friends in Madrid of the deplorable
conditions of the primitive Igorots who were exhibited in this exposition, some of whom
died, and whose scanty clothing (G-Strings) and crude weapons were object of mockery
and laughter by the Spanish people and press.

Being a champion of human dignity, Rizal was outraged by this degradation of

his fellow countrymen the Igorots of Northern Luzon. In a letter to his friend, Blumentritt ,
dated Geneva, June 6, 1887, he said: “My poor compatriots (Igorots----Z.) who are now
being exhibited in Madrid are mocked by Spanish newspaper, except, El Liberal which
says that it is not consistent with human dignity to be exhibited side by side with animals
and plants. I have done everything possible to prevent the display of degradation of
men of my race, but I have not succeeded. Now one woman died of pneumonia. The
Igorots were housed in barraca (rustic house made of bamboo, grass, and tree
branches---Z). And El Resumen still makes mean jokes about it.

Rizal in Italy.

From Geneva, Rizal went to Italy. He visited Turin, Milan, Venice and Florence.
On June 27, 1887, he reached Rome, the “ Eternal City” and also called the “City of the
Caesars.”
 He was thrilled by the sights and memories of the Eternal City. Describing to
Blumentritt , the “grandeur that was Rome”, he wrote on June 27, 1887.

I am in Rome! Everything I step on is the dust of heroes. Here I breathe the same
air which the Roman heroes have breathed. I salute every statue with reverence, and to
me, a humble native of a small island, it seems that I am in a sanctuary. I have already
seen the Capitolium, the Tarpeian Rock, the Palatinum, the Forum Romanum, the
Amphitheatre etc. Everything here is glorious except the cafes and the café singers. I do
not enter these (café) because I loathe to hear their French songs or see modern
industries. My favourite places are the Amphitheatre and the Roman Forum; there I
remain seated for hours, contemplating everything and restoring life to the ruins…

I have also visited some churches and museums like the Capitoline Museum and
the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore , which is also grandiose.

On June 29th, The Feast Day of St. Peter and St. Paul, Rizal visited for the first
time the Vatican, “ City of the Popes” and the capital of Christendom. He was deeply
impressed by the magnificent edifices, particularly of ST. Peter’s Church, the rare
works of Art, the vast St. Peter’s Square, the colourful Papal Guards and the
atmosphere of religious devotion that pervaded the Vatican.

Every night, after sightseeing the whole day, Rizal returned to his hotel, very
tired “ I am tired as a dog,” he wrote to Blumentritt, “but I will sleep as a god.”

After a week of wonderful sojourn in Rome, he prepared to return to the

Philippines. He had already written to his father that he was coming home.