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Eric Dollard Magnetizer Tesla 2019 Energy Energy Donate Energy Times Advertising
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Renewable Energy Discussion on various alternative energy, renewable energy, & free energy technologies. Also any discussion about the environment, global
warming, and other related topics are welcome here.
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Quote:
TWO pair of wire ends will not be connected to a DAMN THING AT ALL. (there WILL BE a paralleled capacitance between them to make
them resonate same as dipole setup).
I have not searched for experiments setup like this but I think
not to many people look at things right. Great progress, keep me
on track. The evolution is coming along fast.
Oh yeah one more thing on how my brain works with the dipole circuit
you have just pointed out. Are you ready?
__________________
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03-12-2016, 05:46 AM #1052
Dipole question
Quote:
I have not searched for experiments setup like this but I think
not to many people look at things right. Great progress, keep me
on track. The evolution is coming along fast.
Oh yeah one more thing on how my brain works with the dipole circuit
you have just pointed out. Are you ready?
Hello BroMikey,
On the question about the dipole with regard to the wire for antenna and then to ground rod - that
I don't know? have never heard any past conversation on it either.
ALSO BRO: go to your search engine and type in : Donald L Smith Inventors Weekend 2001 - YouTube
, pull it up and you will have the full video he gives on the exact Dipole setup I mentioned and explains
most everything you want to know about it. do it if I was you!
thanks again,
respects,
Clarence
__________________
Clarence I've managed to replicate you're effect earlier. (like 6 months ago ?).
Anyways potential in [voltage] -> and amps out (verified with clamp meter on an limited inverter). Only occurred randomly for 3 times for
approx 20 seconds so no proof.
Although it was enough to convince me that there is more possible.
Can you update diagram's you currently have in 1 overview able post ?
Personally planning to create tesla coil (on glass) -> spark show -> catch spark show with another tesla coil (on glass) and from there on I
don't know exactly.
Though it's logical though, 1 MM == 1000 voltage and you can pull amp's out of the ground. Tesla coil also creates tremendous hertz, reduce it
to 60Hz 220 volt somehow.
Ah well whatever, can you please give some updated diagrams and what you're setup currently is ?
Please with pictures, as an picture tells an thousand words.
__________________
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Quote:
On the question about the dipole with regard to the wire for antenna and then to ground rod - that
I don't know? have never heard any past conversation on it either.
Just a thought.
__________________
Hello Clarence, just a thought, could the battery be replaced with a truck capacitor that has a 16 volt rating? The starting capacitor that the
truck lines are using instead of batteries?
__________________
Quote:
Hello Why-me,
Don't know about the Cap battery. never have looked into it.
the whole problem in not whether it's battery or cap battery,
BOTH would require a good method of constant charge to prevent draw down.
THATS the problem that is being worked out here.
glad to see you jumped in anyway!
Respectfully,
Clarence
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Here is the link to the truck capacitors. Maxwell Technologies Engine Starting Module
Or Maxwell Technologies 16 Volt Large Modules Ultracapacitors General Purpose Modules
__________________
Quote:
Anyways potential in [voltage] -> and amps out (verified with clamp meter on an limited inverter). Only occurred randomly for 3 times
for approx 20 seconds so no proof.
Although it was enough to convince me that there is more possible.
Can you update diagram's you currently have in 1 overview able post ?
Personally planning to create tesla coil (on glass) -> spark show -> catch spark show with another tesla coil (on glass) and from there
on I don't know exactly.
Though it's logical though, 1 MM == 1000 voltage and you can pull amp's out of the ground. Tesla coil also creates tremendous hertz,
reduce it to 60Hz 220 volt somehow.
Ah well whatever, can you please give some updated diagrams and what you're setup currently is ?
Please with pictures, as an picture tells an thousand words.
djarno,
You are mistaken, amperage does not come from the ground! voltage only.
the amperage comes by means of the CAPTOR LOOP with the neutral return
wire wrapped 2 1/2 turns around the Captor loop and THEN fed on to use
for electrical supply purposes. if you do it any other way you might as well find a DARK closet- go inside - close the door - and stay there
forever by yourself so you don't pollute the rest of the community!
also sounds like you have a way to small inverter for what you are trying to do!
Also a tesla coil does not create HERTZ big or small.
whatever the frequency of the device used to DRIVE the tesla coil SETS the
frequency of the TC! once set you have to live with it!!!!! you can try to change the frequency with proper parallel capacitors but THAT changes
the frequency of the DRIVER at the SAME TIME! then all hell brakes loose and
the volt/amps that you strived to get goes to hell in a hand basket.
The moral of the story IS: if you don't know what you are doing - DON'T!
Respects,
Clarence
__________________
quote
Personally planning to create tesla coil (on glass) -> spark show -> catch spark show with another tesla coil (on glass) and from there on I
don't know exactly. End quote
If you use glass then prepare for breakage. If you leave glass in sunlight, it will completely break down into very small pieces once you crack
it. Heat cracks glass.
Try a pvc pipe. Not pretty but insulates and less brittle.
Okay, at little off topic. Sorry Clarence.
I want to learn all the Tesla technology I can before the Internet disappears.
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03-17-2016, 05:14 PM #1060
Quote:
If you use glass then prepare for breakage. If you leave glass in sunlight, it will completely break down into very small pieces once you
crack it. Heat cracks glass.
Try a pvc pipe. Not pretty but insulates and less brittle.
Okay, at little off topic. Sorry Clarence.
I want to learn all the Tesla technology I can before the Internet disappears.
__________________
Hi Clarence
__________________
Hello BroMikey. I did It, I thing maybe you know better place to buy some materials, anyway, I try to make different coils for the TPC with the
end not connected and not luck, Mr Clarence if he show the picture how to do It will be a gool, is not to easy, I try to use calculator to do It but
nothing for the moment the consume from the ZVS It go way to high, I will try to do my best. Thanks and good luck.
__________________
Quote:
Hello BroMikey,
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missed that I guess? The new and old TPC coil takes 25 feet of black and 25 feet of red # 6 AWG tinned stranded battey cable. I get mine on
line at
Pacer Group - Marine Wire, Battery Cable and Electrical Parts. pull it up on your search and you can navigate around their site until you get
used to it and then go to the section on battery cable
and check it out. not really hard to get used to their system. they ship and charge for shipping. most all places do!
Also the Red and Black #10 AWG Parallel wire that you see in the attached photo I use for all the TBC coils comes from E-Bay.Com. I order
that from them and also the Hyperbond SuperGlue Medium Flex too!
I don't give out info on numbers of turns and such - up to everybody to use their eyes and count. the photos are quite clear! you will need a
lot of super glue as you go. make a few turns and keep it tight and weighted down and NO gaps between turns before you spread super glue
between wires. then let dry and get after it again till through.
It IS a real pisser to get it complete for sure! like breathing, just keep doing it! I showed a photo of the type of jig I made for flat coil winding
awhile back. I works damn good too!
I put the finishing touches on my added Dipole TPC this afternoon. will take another day or two to finish for install and then run for a good
while for results.
respects,
Clarence
Attached Images
DSC00166.JPG (204.8 KB, 84 views)
__________________
My specialty is mechanical physical devices and I know just about beans about electronics, but again I cheer you as you work toward your free
energy goal.
And I again pray that Lord God blesses you in your good righteous work to help humanity get out of the prison made by poverty due to the
lack of cheap, or, free, energy.
Amen
CANGAS
__________________
Amen
Quote:
My specialty is mechanical physical devices and I know just about beans about electronics, but again I cheer you as you work toward
your free energy goal.
And I again pray that Lord God blesses you in your good righteous work to help humanity get out of the prison made by poverty due to
the lack of cheap, or, free, energy.
Amen
CANGAS
Hello CANGAS,
Respectfully,
Clarence
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__________________
Quote:
missed that I guess? The new and old TPC coil takes 25 feet of black and 25 feet of red # 6 AWG tinned stranded battey cable. I get
mine on line at
Pacer Group - Marine Wire, Battery Cable and Electrical Parts. pull it up on your search and you can navigate around their site until you
get used to it and then go to the section on battery cable
and check it out. not really hard to get used to their system. they ship and charge for shipping. most all places do!
Also the Red and Black #10 AWG Parallel wire that you see in the attached photo I use for all the TBC coils comes from E-Bay.Com. I
order that from them and also the Hyperbond SuperGlue Medium Flex too!
I don't give out info on numbers of turns and such - up to everybody to use their eyes and count. the photos are quite clear! you will
need a lot of super glue as you go. make a few turns and keep it tight and weighted down and NO gaps between turns before you
spread super glue between wires. then let dry and get after it again till through.
It IS a real pisser to get it complete for sure! like breathing, just keep doing it! I showed a photo of the type of jig I made for flat coil
winding awhile back. I works damn good too!
I put the finishing touches on my added Dipole TPC this afternoon. will take another day or two to finish for install and then run for a
good while for results.
respects,
Clarence
http://www.alliedelec.com/images/pro...E/70003896.pdf
Bulk Wire: Online Shopping for Electrical Wire & Cable, Hookup Wire, Magnet Wire, Teflon Coated Wire,
Red/Black Zip Cord
https://wirencable.com/bulk-wire-cab...?sort=priceasc
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__________________
Thanks BroMikey and Clarence for the info, hope the best for you.
Best wish.
__________________
Hello BroMikey,
did not use a parallel capacitor as you can see in photos - forgot that it was already in resonance with the ZVS.
use of a new TPC coil as a dipole worked pretty well. the first TPC coil dipole showed its usual amp draw of .54 amps with no load. nothing new
there.
the second TPC dipole with it's TBC coil energized and unloaded did not
increase anything either. the AC voltage unloaded reading of the TBC was around its usual value of 45 vac. also. nothing new there. the
rectified voltage
from the FWBR you see in the photo was around 76 vdc. the AC output of the ZVS was 40.9 vac which was slightly different from the usual
41.70 vac.
all of the previous values were without the FWBR placing any load on the
whole Zvs circuit at all.
I was not sure what the layered flux field for these FLAT Tesla coils would
do, since it is entirely different from the vertical wound Coils that are mostly used now days. I figured it would probably have "sweet spots"
that would have to be discovered by coil manipulation and that did turn out to be the case.
I watched for two things when I made coil movements: most important was the40.9 acv output of the ZVS. any difference in it as I moved
things told me whether good or bad. the second thing I watched for was the amp load on the ZVS circuit.
to make a long story short, I wound up with 40.1 acv on the ZVS circuit
and a value of .81 amps on the complete circuit when the rectified dcv output was applied as a load to the battery charge circuit. starting at
12.5 dcv on the battery the run time was a little shorter than the previous run times.
the second Dipole did increase the amp value by about a half of the usual .54
amps (.27 amps ) giving the total of the .81 amps reading.
the main concern in all of this is that I believe the ambient background in a FLAT coil as a Dipole does not perform AMPERE wise as well as a
vertical coil does! definitely not good.
Will have to think about it for awhile to see how to improve all the new efforts.
Clarence
Attached Images
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DSC00183.JPG (252.0 KB, 73 views)
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Nicely done coil set and thanks again for the experimental
update on what have found, step by step.
And it seems only light bulbs were used and resistance so that
when the high voltage hit a bank of lights all strung up in series
the TPC that produced the dramatic increased voltage from 20vdc
ZVS was able to produce a higher output than input.
Not to say that a little bit smaller voltage out put does not
deserve just as much experimental attention as other designs
have revealed.
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Tbc
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__________________
03-26-2016, 01:11 AM
BroMikey
Platinum Member
Hey Clarence
Tell me more.
__________________
03-26-2016, 03:54 PM
clarence
Silver Member
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Quote:
Tell me more.
Hello BroMikey,
still did not understand your CLICK AND COPY to have a photo to stay at the TOP and visible to see ABOVE all the message words?? but OH WELL -
since you have already done it here I will go ahead and use it to the members and your advantage!!!! pull up a chair and get comfy - it's a long SOB! an
that' all allowed on this posting - rest immediately following on another posting (Forum rules)!
Here goes:
1. in the schematic the Black and Blue input wires you see would be coming
from the SMALL size CAPTOR which I have! 12KW unit (if I had the
magnetic ground potential anomaly to enable it - which I don't have because of my location) which is the initial unit B&L used to POWER the OTHER TW
LARGER units. a 25KW and a 50 to 100KW unit. the 25KW unit is the one I am explaining now! onward.
2. the first thing you see at the end of the BLACK input lead is just a normal type household circuit breaker! it is rated for ONLY HALF of the maximum
output amperage the unit is capable of producing. they used this value
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rating so as not to OVERLOAD their unit!
3.the next thing you see attached to the RED lead and located NEXT to the circuit breaker is a GDT( gas discharge tube)/VARACTER/LIGHTNING SURGE
the same purpose.
4. the next thing you see is the SMALL green lead connected to the GDT/etc.
this actually does supply HOT voltage to the LARGE GREEN GROUND WIRE
and also serves as the POLARIZING wire for the circuit AND a NEUTRAL
EARTH GROUND ROD SYSTEM RETURN line for the circuit - ALL at the same time. Busy! in the event of a SURGE from the EARTH - everything shuts dow
5. the next thing you see is the LARGE GREEN EARTH GROUND wire make a SINGLE WRAP around ONLY ONE of the (close to center turn) turns of the C
AMPERAGE ABILITY HERE
at this point!
6. the next thing you see connected to the RED LEAD wire is the connection to the TOROID PRIMARY connection AND THEN ON TO SERVE AS THE CAPT
7. the BLUE INPUT LEAD IS CONNECTED TO THE TOROID NEUTRAL wire.
8. the next thing you will see is the CAPTOR WINDINGS. it is 7 (seven)
feet of # 1 ought tinned stranded copper cable( from PACERGROUP ).
it is five to six turns (closer to six) and the ends are connected by a COPPER SPLIT BOLT connector.
the BOTTOM TURN is the ONLY one that passes THROUGH the TOROID
CENTER ( does NOT WRAP - IF any silly so-and-so starts making WPAPS
the WHOLE COIL will VAPORIZE! be WARNED! DO NOT DO THAT!)
NOTE: the TORoid only uses .08 amps which will turn the CAPTOR COIL
with ONLY that mere amps into a coil that bcan produce 1000 to 2000
amps and you damn well won't like it! P-O-O-F!!!
9. the CT marking near the CAPTOR COIL end connection denotes TWO
separate pizzeo transducers (available on line) . one sends its values to a
digital amp meter (available on line) and the other sends it values to a
voltage meter ( available on line ).
10. as you can see, each of the meters are powered by the BLACK and BLUE
source leads at the top of the schematic.
11. POINT OF INTEREST: I used a 40 watt refrigerator bulb to purposely demonstrate the minute amperage that is needed to energize the particular CA
photo shows .38 amps
for the WHOLE CIRCUIT! the 40 watt bulb uses .30 amps - that means that the TOROID only uses .08 amps to produce (in this case) 109+- amps.
and that will NOT INCREASE no matter how much amperage the the CAPTOR COIL induces into the GROUND ROD SYSTEM!
Now I will attach only six of the photos I made. Forum allows only that many at this time. rest will immediately follow.
respectfully,
Clarence
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__________________
03-26-2016, 04:31 PM
clarence
Silver Member
More info
Quote:
Tell me more.
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Hello BroMikey ,
Thanks,
Clarence
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Quote:
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here's the rest of the photos.
Thanks,
Clarence
Hello,
using 500gram of copper wire 0.315 mm in diameter for the primary coil?
Best Regards
luc2010
luc2010
__________________
03-26-2016, 08:20 PM
BroMikey
Platinum Member
Hi Clarence
Never mind that just let me know when you want it done.
At your service
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Hello BroMikey,
__________________
Quote:
Hey Clarence
My pleasure Sir.
But when I look at this circuit outside the box I think that
YOU see what the 109 amps represents in terms of available
energy as you have done a Captor before other ways.
The larger awg wire circling the outer Dia. of the toroid.
Wow this is very different. I'll have to give this some thought.
__________________
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__________________
Quote:
using 500gram of copper wire 0.315 mm in diameter for the primary coil?
Best Regards
luc2010
luc2010
Hello luc2010,
you are one of the reasons why I put this information out there.
many have been asking about how to do the one toroid with the one Barbosa & Leal Captor Coil and THIS is not my setup. It is strictly the
same thing they built and used and are STILL using.
SO be SURE to always refer back to this information and build and construct
every thing exactly as you see it! do NOT deviate from their method or you will screw up.
I am aware that you are in the process of building your own toroid with the same type of blank salvaged stator as they used. I also know that
you are doing things this way because the cost and availability in your country of
Africa are prohibitive . my hat is off to you SIR and the many others just like you.
I do also hope that the location you are in is beneficial to this type of unit
and also to you.
My location did not turn out so good . However I have been working to overcome that deficiency for a good while now and will continue to do
so.
I will always wish the VERY BEST to you!!!! keep doing the good things and it will happen!
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Respectfully,
Clarence
__________________
Quote:
Hey Clarence
My pleasure Sir.
But when I look at this circuit outside the box I think that
YOU see what the 109 amps represents in terms of available
energy as you have done a Captor before other ways.
The larger awg wire circling the outer Dia. of the toroid.
Wow this is very different. I'll have to give this some thought.
HelloBroMikey,
with respect to the toroid amperage BOTH of my toroids TOGETHER are ALWAYS at idle and only consume .08 to .3+- amps ( the variation
depending upon whether or not they are in or out of saturation - and they do that off and on continually while in use) . they NEVER go over
that amount
regardless of whatever the rest of the unit is doing. never.
once they start doing their job they are CONTENT to just sit there forever
as if they were on vacation. that I have always liked about them.
small but powerful!
ALSO BRO. the reason I was so adamant about making only ONE WRAP around the blank part of the toroid is because I tried making my usual
2 1/2 wraps
as I did on my unit and when I eventually turned the unit on with my AMP meter clamped in place the amperage on the clamp meter
immediately went to 280 AMPS!
and the cable went HOT BIGTIME ALSO!!!!! so I shut it off and re worked the cable through the center of the toroid !
So if you think 109 + amps is HUGH think again, and still only at .o8 amp to the toroid!
respectfully,
Clarence
__________________
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