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Custom Chopper
Vol. 1
www.Custom-Choppers-Guide.com
© 2004-2005 Brian Maroevich, Avalanche Holdings, LLC
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Copyright Notices
2004-2005 Brian Maroevich, Avalanche Holdings, LLC
www.custom-choppers-guide.com, all rights reserved.
Legal Notices
While all attempts have been make to verify information provided in
this publication, neither the Author nor the Publishers assumes any
responsibility for errors, omissions or contradictory interpretation of the
subject matter herein.
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The purchaser or reader of this publication assumes responsibility for
the use of these materials and information. Adherence to all applicable
laws and regulations, both federal and state and local, governing
professional licensing business practices, advertising and all other
aspect of dong business in the US or any other jurisdiction is t sole
responsibility of the purchaser or reader. Avalanche Response
Marketing Systems, assumes no responsibility liability whatsoever on
the behalf of any purchaser or reader of these materials.
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How to Build a Chopper Vol. 1
Introduction..................................................................... 5
2. An Assembly............................................................. 30
Appendix 1 - A checklist .......................................... 40
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From Bare Frame to Road Going
Machine
Introduction
This is something to think about early on. For me, there are
forks on the market that are beautiful, and there are forks
that do the job. It’s a matter of taste, like everything else to
do with choppers. Each of the main types of forks available
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on the market should, theoretically, have triple trees to fit
your frame. You need to consider various things before
purchasing anything, and your best bet is to discuss your
frame and intended set-up (in particular the wheel sizes)
with the company you’re buying your forks from. It’s often
necessary to buy forks that are specially suited for the
larger rakes of 33º and more. Most motorbike forks are
designed for a more upright rake, and just won’t work
properly when laid back because the stresses are so
different. You don’t want to see forks flexing in the wrong
direction (at right angles to the shock motion) – it means
they aren’t working.
Girders
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Springer
These are the forks with one or two large coil springs on
display at the neck end. At the wheel end is a little shock
arrangement based around a visible ‘hinge’ attached to the
bike, the neck via the struts and the springs. Like girders,
some riders and builders consider these forks more fitting
to the chopper look.
Hydraulic
These are the most common type, and are seen on almost
all modern factory motorbikes. Hydraulic forks contain the
shock and spring in a single closed unit - you can’t see the
spring. Particular care must be taken to get a hydraulic
shock made for the job, as mentioned above. For example,
hydraulic shocks are available as ‘inverted’ shocks, where
the lower part slides into the top part, rather than the other
way around as in the standard, non-inverted case. This is
designed to help manage the unusual strain the shocks take
when placed at extreme angles. Imagine how a shock
poorly designed for the job might spend much of its time
scraping up against the inside walls, leading to a leaden
ride (and a loss of mechanical efficiency). Many hydraulic
forks are designed for the job, however, and do it very well.
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know what job you need them to do. To do this, measure
the space the forks will need to fit in - you will need to
know what wheels and tires you’re going to use. Ideally, fit
the rear tire, and block the frame up to ride height. You’ll
then have something that looks like the figure below. The
measurements you’ll need to discuss when buying or
ordering forks are the rake angle, the two neck tube heights
as shown, the radius of the wheel and tire, and the radius of
the inside of the neck stem. Then just specify and wait.
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Hardware
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point (ultimate tensile strength, UTS) and the point at
which they begin deforming and acting in a plastic rather
than elastic way (this is the yield point). The table shows
how this varies.
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between the bolt an nut. Self locking nuts come in all
shapes and sizes and the plastic collared type (nylon
collared) are fine for most jobs. Because they are made
from nylon, they aren’t very good for any bits that get very
hot (like round the exhaust), so here you can use an all steel
lock nut.
Plumbing
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This can be avoided by using steel clamps to keep the lines
from rubbing, and also by casing the metal in a plastic
sheath. Plastic also insulates electrically, protecting against
electrical shorts.
Brakes
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The brake system consists of:
Apart from the caliper and the levers, the most noticeable
part of the braking system is the rotor. There are more
different designs of rotors than there are designs of wheel,
and matching the two is a matter of personal judgment and
style. The material is usually iron or stainless steel. The
hardness of stainless steel means that you need to use a
specially designed pad of sintered iron to get a decent grip
on the rotor. Kevlar pads work best with iron rotors, but not
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on stainless. Again, by thinking of the brake as a system,
you can get all the right parts together.
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use one of the kits that pump fluid in at this bleeding point).
There are various ways to make bleeding easier (one of
which is get someone else to do it). There are kits on the
market that pump fluid in at the bleeding point and pumps
that work the fluid through the system.
Always use the best quality fastenings (grade 8 – see
above) on the brake parts because they will be subject to
massive strain. Usually suitable components are provided
with the brakes, of course.
Wheels
Billet wheels look like they were made from solid pieces of
metal with various designs seemingly carved into them.
They range from just three very large spokes upwards, and
come in many patterns. There are forged from a lump of
aluminum or cast in aluminum.
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Tires
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Then there are combinations of letters for various
manufacturers that don’t quite fit this convention, but they
publish the data in any case.
The 17 written on the tire wall simply means that the tire
fits a 17 inch wheel.
The final part of our example reads 90V, and is the load
index. The V part refers to the speed at which the load
index was measured (149 mph), and the load index needs to
be looked up – in this case 90 equates to a 600kg load. If
you had front and back tires rated like this, then you’d be
happy with a 1200kg load, which is about 2650 lbs! Again
this data is published and your best bet (if you’re
interested) is to look the load index up on a chart.
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The Powertrain
We’ll deal with the engine and the drive train separately.
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Engine
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and a B version that does. The counter balance stops the
engine vibration being passed directly to the rider.
However the B version, aside from costing a little more,
won’t fit on the frames with a center post like the one
we’ve been describing here. It also must be used with a
matched transmission that is quite different from other
transmissions.
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Drivetrain
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inner and outer covers, the sprockets, the clutch, the chain,
and a starter motor that fits. Whole kits are available for
this if you have a standard combination of newer engines.
Otherwise you need to match components by using the year
and machine that they were designed for as a guide (for
example for softails, 1989-1993), and discussing your
choices. Another thing to watch out for is older clutches
that weren’t really designed for big engines and can’t cope
well with the job. These can be upgraded to heavy duty
clutches (made of Kevlar, for example) at the time of
building. There are also various levels of outer housing,
from leaving the workings exposed, to partially covering, to
complete encasing in shiny metal.
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The Electrical System
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Wire
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Distance 10 feet 15 feet 20 feet 25 feet
Current
5A 18 ga 16 ga 14 ga 12 ga
10A 14 ga 12 ga 10 ga 10 ga
15A 12 ga 10 ga 10 ga 8 ga
20A 10 ga 10 ga 8 ga 6 ga
25A 10 ga 8 ga 6 ga 6 ga
30A 10 ga 8 ga 6 ga 4 ga
50A 6 ga 6 ga 4 ga 2 ga
60A 6 ga 4 ga 4 ga 2 ga
80A 6 ga 4 ga 2 ga 2 ga
100A 4 ga 2 ga 2 ga 1 ga
120A 4 ga 2 ga 1 ga 0 ga
160A 2 ga 1 ga 0 ga 00 ga
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The ignition system
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contacts in the way we think of, but they do exactly the
same job. The starter relay is nothing more than a switch
that allows the action of passing current to take place a
little further away from the push buttons and a little nearer
where it is needed.
The Battery
This usually sits in the oil tank below the seat, though
sometimes moves around the bike when space is tight.
Because space is an issue there are various sizes of battery.
If you’ve bought a pre-fabricated oil tank, the decision has
been made for you and you simply need a battery to fit. The
two figures a battery carries are cold cranking amps and
amp hour rating. The first is how much power the battery
generates when cold and being called upon to deliver 7.2
volts for 30 seconds – bigger ratings mean more power and
underpowered batteries may lead to starting problems with
big engines. The second measure is an amount of time that
the battery will provide a given power and voltage.
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battery, the earth needs to be in contact with unpainted
metal, since paint insulates to some extent.
The Starter
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bulbs etc. The diagram below uses some of the factory
colors (yellow, white, orange, green red and tan) to
illustrate how easy a basic circuit can be.
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this case), just like the wire and all the other components.
Take care over all the connections you need to make -
soldering and shrink-wrapping two wires that need to be
joined results in a solid, secure wire in a way snapping
them together with quick connectors doesn’t. There seems
little point in saving time here, given how much time you
put into the whole build. And remember, if the wiring is to
be neatly hidden within the frame then the wiring needs to
be figured out before the final build, rather than as a
finishing touch. I suggest thinking about it from the start
(where do I want the switches to end up?) and I will
mention it again at the end of the build sequence below.
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2. An Assembly
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made and improvised, the main thing being a good true
surface and some way to be sure that the heavy machine
will not fall on you.
With the forks in place the front wheel (with tire on and
inflated) should be put in place. The front rotor or rotors
should already be on the wheel so we can fit the calipers
later. The rotors just bolt into place on the wheel. Once the
wheel and forks are on the frame the bike can be put in
place if you’re using a front wheel vice – it will stand
upright in an approximate riding position. It’s a good idea
to block it up to riding height at this stage. Next is the
engine.
2. The Engine
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drops. Don’t tighten them right up at this stage. Any
problems can be addressed at this stage (this is the point of
the mock up), but obviously don’t keep weakening the
mounting by drilling and so on. Generally it’s better to get
the right mounting plate and start again. The top support we
will need to mark and drill before bolting. This we’ll do
when we’ve fitted the other large parts to the frame.
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transmission where it attaches to the frame. The exact
offset you need depends on the size of the rear wheel and
the exact transmission, engine and frame combination.
Spacers are usually used between the engine and the inner
primary – they match the shape of the large circle the
engine forms around the moving wheel, and the inner
primary is bolted straight through them into the engine
block.
At this point you will have a roughly oval inner with two
shafts poking thorough, one from the engine and a second
from the transmission. The next thing to do is to somehow
connect the power of the engine with the control offered by
the transmission.
Aside from the two shafts that are showing there is also an
obvious hole up to the top right as you look directly at the
inner primary. This is where the starter will push out. The
starter itself sits on the other side of the inner primary.
Install it, and then lubricate and slide into place the
jackshaft, which is the part that sticks through the inner
primary. Onto this slide the outer coupling, the drive (the
cogwheel) and screw it into place with the supplied long
bolt.
Now we’re ready to add the primary drive wheel beside the
engine and the clutch beside the transmission. As we have
already discussed the connection will be made by either a
chain or a belt. The only thing to remember is that the big
wheel (main shaft) has a left hand thread, because
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otherwise it would come undone when everything is
turning!
The goal for the rear wheel is that it sits in the middle of the
frame and runs straight. This is complicated by the rotor on
one side and the pulley (and the belt or chain) on the other.
You would have immediate problems if this combination
didn’t fit in the frame, but this isn’t likely to happen if
you’ve done you’re planning. In fact there should be plenty
of space and the trick is to use spacers to get the positioning
you need.
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On the right hand side of the rear wheel we want to put a
spacer next to the rotor to allow clearance for the brake
caliper bracket. You can get the rotor in the right place by
placing a metal rule between the rotor and the tire – it will
be snug against the widest part of the tire at both sides and
then you can slide the rotor up to the metal rule. You can
use a spacer here to get it right before putting the wheel on
the bike. A spacer on this side of the rotor needs to be in
the same pattern as the rotor, so if the rotor has five bolt
holes, the spacer needs five bolt holes and the same internal
diameter.
Put the wheel in place on the frame, fitting the belt to the
pulley on the left hand side. Here you want the belt to be
close to the outer edge of the tire, whilst clearing it. When
in place on the bike, the axle spacer on the left hand side of
the bike should protrude by, say, an eighth of an inch.
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the neck, along the center and beyond the wheel. This will
let you see exactly how good your wheel centering has
been. There are also simple alignment tools available,
which are really just appropriately bent pieces of metal. If
you now block the bike up a little further you can roll the
wheel and watch the belt. What is essential here is that the
belt tracks smoothly and centrally on the pulley. If it
doesn’t, it isn’t going to work very well. If you have a
problem it can be with the alignment of the wheel and the
transmission (try altering the spacer configuration, or
checking the transmission is not at an angle), or with the
wheel not being in straight in the frame.
4. The Calipers
Now, if you want, you can fit the front and rear calipers.
They just need bolting on, with extra care being taken to
ensure that the split in the caliper is dead center over the
rotor. This almost always requires some fine tuning, which
is why most calipers come with shims as well as mounting
bolts (that must be good bolts - grade 8, as we discussed
above).
5. The Metalwork
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Although we have some kind of attachments in mind for
the gas tank, it’s likely that the final fitting will need some
extra work. This could involve cutting a piece of tubing (or
piping – the difference is less important here than in
building the frame!) so the flat strap that will be bolted onto
the gas tank can be fitted exactly then welded onto the fame
itself. It’s just as easy to have done this early on, of course.
The tank will also need marking out for any other drill
holes on the other attachment point on the frame, usually
on the top engine mount. The tank will be fastened with
some rubber spacers when finally put in place. The fenders
will need to be drilled now, however, because this is the
first time the wheels have been in place. A regular spacing
is needed between the tire and the fender, and this is
achieved by taping something to the tire and resting the
fender on this whilst marking out. Many builders use an old
belt from the belt drive here, since that happens to offer
about half an inch. This is also an opportunity to fabricate
other struts and supports for the fenders, if you want.
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it to pieces again. Paint it remembering to mask the engine
mounts where a metal to metal contact will be needed and
the other sections where an earth will be needed (see the
section on the electrical system), rebuild it, and ride it!
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Appendix 1 - A checklist
ENGINE
Engine
Cam Cover
Motor Mount
Skid Plate
Generator & Generator Gasket
Carburetor
Intake Manifold
Choke Lever
Idle adjusting Screw
Air Cleaner
Throttle Cable Support Bracket
Spark Plugs
12v Coil
Accelerator Regulator
Exhaust Pipes
Exhaust Port Gaskets
Pipe Clamps
TRANSMISSION
Transmission Assembly
Chrome side cover
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Kick Pedal
Transmission Mount Plate
Clutch
Primary Chain
Sprocket
Counter Sprocket
Drive Chain
Clutch Release Arm
Inner Primary Cover
Outer Primary Cover
Gasket Set
Throttle Set
CHASSIS
The Frame
Forks
Hangers
Mirror and bracket
Sidestand
Gas Tanks
Gas Caps
Gas Tank Mountings
Fuel Valve
Oil Tank
Speedometer and cable
Seat and Pillion Pad
Fenders
Rear Foot Peg Bracket
Foot Pegs
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WHEEL, TIRES AND BRAKES
Front and Rear Wheels and Tires, rim strips, tubes
Front Brakes
Front Brake Cable Clamp
Rear Axel
Oil Line Nipples & Nuts
Stainless Braided Hose (10 feet)
Hose Ends
Rear Brake Linkage
Rear Brake Drum & Sprocket
Wheel Lug Nuts
Rear Chain Guard
ELECTRICS
12v Battery
Horn
Headlight, bulbs, brackets
Stoplight Switch
Side Mount Tail light Assembly
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Appendix 2 - Suppliers
The internet sites listed below are mainly on-line stores, though
one or two are included because they have interesting information.
From this list you could gather your parts without leaving your
computer desk. They usually have telephone numbers as well, and
as I’ve said throughout, it is often worth talking to someone to
make sure you are getting the right product for your needs. This is
a particularly useful list if you are miles from a supplier.
All the suppliers listed here are US based, and it doesn’t represent
anywhere near a complete list. I haven’t chosen the listings
because they are necessarily the best – I haven’t used them all, so
the list isn’t a recommendation as such.
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Also offer a good online store and delivery on a
wide range of parts are:
3. Engines
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4. Belt drives
5. Headlights
6. Custom Painting
7. Finishing touches
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- Aeromach Manufacturing offer finishing
parts like mirrors, brake levers, bullet axle
covers etc in chrome
http://www.aeromach.net/cat_pg1.html
Phone: 619-258-5443
8. Vintage
www.Custom-Choppers-Guide.com
© 2004-2005 Brian Maroevich, Avalanche Holdings, LLC
www.Custom-Choppers-Guide.com
All Rights Reserved.
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