DIYaudio Class AB amplifier - "options.

txt"

This document will guide you through all the many variations this amplifier
project
is set up for and the benefits and/or compromises you can expect with these
choices.

---- LTP ----

Comprised of Q1 and Q2 , C1 - C4 , R1 - R6 , and D1 - D2.

This stage is the "first in line" , it sees both your music input signal and a
attenuated
version of the final amplifed signal. It is called a "long tailed pair" or
"differential input pair",
"LTP" for short.
You can choose many devices for Q1 and Q2 ,as long as they are E-B-C in lead
designation
and have low noise and high gain (200Hfe+ - 3-500 preferred)... 40-65V NPN To-92
BJT. FET's can be used with this amp and will be
offered as a future modification.

The "offset" adjustment (R17) will be set after powering up the amplifier for the
first time and
usually just needs a 1/4 to half turn to bring the output voltage within 1-2mv of
0V.
This all depends on how closely these 2 devices (Q1-2) "match". A DMM Hfe test
within a few digits will
usually produce the 1/4-1/2 turn scenario described above.

---- Cascode/Current mirror ----

Cascode = Q3 - Q4 R18/D3-19 + D3

Current mirror = Q5 - Q6 R20-21

These stages are what "transmits" and refines your LTP signal so it is usable to
the next stage. The Cascode is a
"level shifter"and allows for low voltage LTP devices as well as increasing the
impedance going to the current mirrors (CM).
The current mirror keeps the current between the "front and rear"(Q1/3 and Q2/4)
LTP and cascode devices equal to improve
performance.

The cascode (Q3-4) can be setup in 2 (or more) ways.

- The first is a zener referenced design - omit R18 , replace

with a 1/2w- 1w 12-15V zener diode and set jumper pad "C" to "Z" with thin wire.
The "CRZ" jumper pads
are located above D1-2 near "OFFSET". You will have a cascode reference of either
12 or 15V , depending
on Zener diode choice.

- The second way is to use the "luxman" way , crude resistive design. R18 is left
as is (NO D3) , jumper "C"
will bridge to "R". This will set the cascode reference to roughly 1/3 of the
supply voltage ... whatever that is.

- Either of these 2 Options can use the "C to R" or "C to Z" jumpers in any
combination ... all will work !
-The current mirrors - Real simple 2 device pair setup with 2 resistors.
Normally... 220R , these can be reduced to
100R if a FET input pair is used (more gain). Otherwise - leave them alone.

--- VAS/CCS ---

Comprised of Q9,Q10,Q11,Q12 R12-13 R22-27 C5,7-8 (VAS - "BIG"CCS) and Q 7,8 R7-
11,C5 ("small CCS").

The "small CCS" is next to the "big CCS" on the PCB. "CCS" refers to "constant
current source" , both CCS's share the same
voltage source (the V- rail) and reference to ground through R11,12,13 ... filtered
by C5. This common reference makes them
"turn on" simultaniously , reducing "thump" for a smooth turn-on experiance.

The VAS , (Voltage Amplification stage) is what takes the small signal from the
cascode/current mirrors and creates a
wide, rail to rail "swing" . With 60V supplies ,this can be a large as 110V peak to
peak. This signal is also what you "hear"...
after the big devices of the output stage increase the current a 1000 times or
more.

The "OPTIONS" here are numerous. The small CCS just has a 20 turn 200R trimmer(R7)
, this CCS controls the LTP current , it can
be adjusted between 1.8ma to almost 6ma , optimum is 70-100R-R7 giving 3.5ma at the
"tail" of the LTP.
The "BIG CCS" is a part of the VAS .... with R27=68R ,the VAS will have a current
of about 9 mA. Other values-R27 are 100R=6ma or
56R=10.5ma. These changes will affect the Bias of the amplifier , MAKE SURE "bias"-
R30 is set at maximum 500R if you change R27!!

The VAS itself has 2 compensation modes:

1. Conventional miller compensation (CMC)- Omit R24 - (the feedback 820R 1/4w
resistor) , omit EITHER C7 or C8 replace one witha wire jumper and the remaining
one with a 68pF 300-500v silver mica capacitor . So ... C8= jumper R24=nothing
C7=68pF(as an example).

2.Transitional miller compensation (TMC)- This will reduce distortion further ,

R24-820 feeds output back to junction of C7 and 8.
Schematic shows correct values.

This stage can also work with MJE340(NPN)/MJE350(PNP). Reduced performance may be
experianced , but it will work ... even with the
2sc3503/2sa1381 compensations.

--- VBE ---

Comprised of R28-R31, C9, and Q13 (on the main heatsink) , this section keeps the
output stage biased correctly and sets a negative
temperature compensation (coefficient) to keep the output transistors from
overheating and ultimate destruction.

Adjusting this is simple. R30 (BIAS) should be set to 500R (read it with your
DMM). This will forward bias Q13 to the max and make
the voltages across C9 their smallest , biasing the output stage to class B levels.
Slowly turn R30 until you see your first
few millivolts across TP1 and TP2. Continue until the test points show 15-20mv ,
allow to thermally stabilize ... adjust further.
Note: Some like it "hot" (30-40mv = 100ma/ per device) , some like it "cool" (20-
25mv = 50mv) crossover distortion usually minimizes
at >50mV and up. This will depend on output choice.

--- general construction tips ----

A. LTP , current mirror and cascode coupling - use a dab of thermal compound and
1/4" polyolefin heat shrink tubing to enclose the "pairs"

B. VAS heatsink - cut a 25mm X 75-80mm piece of thin aluminum , line up with Q10-12
, mark holes , use 4-40 small screws with
thermal compound to complete coupling. THIS VAS will stay cool !!!

C. Build the amp totally EXCEPT for the output stage TO-3P/TO-247 devices, DO NOT
solder in R36. Instead temporarily solder 2- 68R resistors
between R40 and R37 and the long output trace that is hooked to L1. This will turn
your drivers into the outputs !!! When powering up for the
first time either use the 2 fuse safety resistors (R53 and 54) , or solder 2
"sacrificial" 10R 1/4-1/2W resistors to the "V+ and V-"
terminals (after the fuses). Adjust R30 for +/- .55V on resistors R34 and 35 ...
output should just be a few millivolts. This will insure
that the outputs are non-biased when they are installed.

--- Other "TWEAKS" ----

Labeled as "LC" above R6 is the option lead compensation capacitor. It's value is
usually 2-10pF (silver mica 3-500V). It can
change the sound , increase stability. With 2 pF and a single 68pF CMC (VAS
SECTION) , this could make driving pure capacitive
loads easier on this amp. In this CMC mode , the phase margin is increased at the
unity gain point. Don't overdo it. A 2-5pf will really change the high frequency
phase drastically. This is an ADVANCED "option" , download LT spice to see the
results beforehand.

At this final point- make sure you install R36 , remove the 2 68R's , and any
other temporary components. I have NEVER blown an output with this method!!

I am sure this amp will operate like a "champ" for many years (maybe even 20) Your
choices in components (derating), and the avoidance
of the "dreaded counterfiets" (EBAY) , will prove wise in the MTBF (mean time
between failure) arena.

Happy building. (OS)