Surcoat

A surcoat or surcote initially was an outer garment commonly worn in the Middle Ages by both
men and women in Western Europe. It can either refer to a coat worn over other clothes or the
outermost garment itself. The name derives from French meaning "over the coat", a long, loose,
often sleeveless coat reaching down to the feet.
Men's surcoat
From about the 12th century, knights wore long, flowing surcoats, frequently emblazoned with
their personal arms, over their armor. These usually extended to about midcalf, had slits in the
bottom front and back, thus allowing the wearer to ride comfortably and were either sleeved or
sleeveless.
Women's surcoat
Women began wearing surcoats during the 13th century, both with and without sleeves. A
particular style, known as the sideless surcoat, developed as a fashion in the 14th century. This
was a sleeveless, floor-length garment featuring exaggerated armholes, which at their most
extreme were open from shoulder to hip, revealing the gown underneath. The narrow strip
covering the torso, known as the plackard was usually no more than a foot wide.

Hose
Hose are any of various styles of men's clothing for the legs and lower body, worn from the
Middle Ages through the 17th century, when the style fell out of use in favour of breeches and
stockings.The old plural form of "hose" was hosen. In German these terms remained in use and
are the generic terms for trousers today. The French equivalent was chausses. Early wool hose
were fitted to the leg, and 15th century hose were often made particolored or having each leg a
different colour, or even one leg made of two colors. These early hose were footed, in the
manner of modern tights, and were open from the crotch to the leg. When very short doublets
were in fashion, codpieces were added to cover the front opening. By the 16th century, hose had
separated into two garments.

Hoop skirt
A hoop skirt is a women's undergarment worn in various periods to hold the skirt extended into a
fashionable shape. It originated as a modest-sized mechanism for holding long skirts away from
one's legs, to stay cooler in hot climates and to keep from tripping on the skirt during various
activities. Small hoops might be worn by farmers and while working in the garden. Hoops were
then adopted as a fashion item. Hoop skirts typically consist of a fabric petticoat sewn with
channels designed to act as casings for stiffening materials, variously rope, whalebone, steel, or,
from the mid-20th century, nylon.Lightweight hoop skirts, usually with nylon hoops, are worn
today under very full-skirted wedding gowns. They can sometimes be seen in the gothic fashion
scene.

Bustle
A bustle is a padded undergarment used to add fullness, or support the drapery, at the back of
women's dresses in the mid-to-late 19th century. Bustles were worn under the skirt in the back,
just below the waist. Fullness of some sort was still considered necessary to make the waist look
smaller and the bustle eventually replaced the crinoline completely. The bustle was worn in
different shapes for most of the 1870s and 1880s, with a short period of non-bustled, flat-backed
dresses from 1878 to 1882.
In the early stages of the fashion for the bustle, the fullness to the back of the skirts was carried
quite low and often fanned out to create a train. The transition from the voluminous crinoline
enhanced skirts of the 1850s and 1860s can be seen in the loops and gathers of fabric and
trimmings worn during this period. The bustle later evolved into a much more pronounced
humped shape on the back of the skirt immediately below the waist, with the fabric of the skirts
falling quite sharply to the floor, changing the shape of the silhouette.

Devils window
In the middle ages European artists and pheologians shaped a new terrifying region of certain
and the punishments waiting sinners in his reahlm. Perhaps the devils most famous depiction was
crafted by English poet John Milton in his 1667 masterpiece Paradise Lost. The Epic poem tells
two sories one of the fall of an angel once most beautiful of all angels Luisey Fur rebels against
God and becomes satan. Satan is deeply arrogant.

Chemise
A chemise is a modern type of women's undergarment or dress. Historically, a chemise was a
simple garment worn next to the skin to protect clothing from sweat and body oils. The English
"chemise" evolved from French. The chemise seems to have developed from the
Roman tunica and first became popular in Europe in the Middle Ages. Women wore a chemise
under their gown or robe; while men wore a chemise with their trousers and covered the
chemises with garments such as robes, etc. Until the late 18th century, a chemise referred to
an undergarment. In the eighteenth century, the primary female undergarment was the chemise a
knee-length, loose-fitting garment of white linen with a straight or slightly triangular silhouette.
The term chemise was first used to describe an outer garment in the 1780s, loose-fitting gown of
sheer white cotton, resembling a chemise in both cut and material. In Western countries, the
chemise as an undergarment fell out of fashion in the early 20th century, and was generally
replaced by a bra, full slip, and panties first came to be worn.

Crinoline
Crinoline is a stiff or structured petticoat designed to hold out a woman's skirt, popular at
various times since the mid-19th century. Originally, crinoline described a stiff fabric made
of horsehair and cotton or linen which was used to make underskirts and as a dress lining.
By the 1850s the term crinoline was more usually applied to the fashionable silhouette provided
by horsehair petticoats.
Crinolines were worn by women of every social standing and class across the Western world,
from royalty to factory workers. They were also hazardous if worn without due care. Thousands
of women died in the mid-19th century as a result of their hooped skirts catching fire. Alongside
fire, other hazards included the hoops being caught in machinery, carriage wheels, gusts of wind,
or other obstacles.

Frock Coat
A frock coat is a man's coat characterised by a knee-length skirt all around the base, popular
during the Victorian and Edwardian periods.The frock coat is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a
centre vent at the back and some features unusual in post-Victorian dress. These include the
reverse collar and lapels, where the outer edge of the lapel is cut from a separate piece of cloth
from the main body and also a high degree of waist suppression, where the coat's diameter round
the waist is much less than round the chest. The frock coat was originally widely worn in much
the same day-to-day professional situations as modern lounge suits but gradually came to
embody the most formal attire, with different variations. One example is that a frock coat
for formalwear was always double-breasted with peaked lapels and came with waistcoat.

Dinner Jacket
The first dinner jacket is traditionally traced to 1865 on the then Prince of Wales, later
King Edward VII (1841–1910). The late 19th century saw gradual introduction of the lounge
jacket without tails as a less formal and more comfortable alternative to the frock coat.
Similarly, the shorter dinner jacket evolved as a less formal alternative to the dress coat out of
the informal smoking jacket, itself an evolvement out of the banyan. Thus in many non-English
languages, a dinner jacket is still known as the false friend "smoking". In American English, its
synonym "tuxedo" was derived from the town of Tuxedo Park in New York State.
Traditionally worn only for events after 6 p.m., black tie is less formal than white tie but more
formal than informal or business dress. As semi-formal, black tie are worn for dinner parties and
sometimes even to balls and weddings.

Trench Coat
A trench coat is a coat variety made of waterproof , leather, or poplin. It generally has a
removable insulated lining, raglan sleeves, and the classic versions come in various lengths
ranging from just above the ankles (the longest) to above the knee (the shortest). It was originally
an item of clothing for Army officers and shows this influence in its styling.
Traditionally this garment is double-breasted with 10 front buttons, and has wide lapels, a storm
flap, and pockets that button-close. The coat is belted at the waist with a self-belt, as well as has
straps around the wrists that also buckle (to keep water from running down the forearm when
using in the rain). The coat often has shoulder straps that button-close; those were a functional
feature in a military context. The traditional color of a trench coat was khaki, although newer
versions come in many colors.

Chaperon Hood
Chaperon was a form of hood or, later, highly versatile hat worn in all parts of Western Europe
in the Middle Ages. Initially a utilitarian garment, it first grew a long partly decorative tail
behind called a liripipe, and then developed into a complex, versatile and expensive headgear
after what was originally the vertical opening for the face began to be used as a horizontal
opening for the head. It was especially fashionable in mid-15th century . It is the most
commonly worn male headgear in Early Netherlandish painting,.
The chaperon began before 1200 as a hood with a short cape, put on by pulling over the head, or
fastening at the front. The hood could be pulled off the head to hang behind, leaving the short
cape round the neck and shoulders. The edge of the cape was often trimmed, cut or scalloped for
decorative effect. There were wool ones, used in cold weather, and lighter ones for summer. In
this form it continued through to the end of the Middle Ages, worn by the lower classes, often by
women as well as men, and especially in Northern Europe. The hood was loose at the back, and
sometimes ended in a tail that came to a point.

French Tail
French Braid is also known as French tail . The three-strand gathered plait includes three sections
of hair that are braided together from the crown of the head to the nape of the neck. In the
simplest form of three-strand braid, all the hair is initially divided into three sections, which are
then simultaneously gathered together near the scalp. In contrast, a French braid starts with three
small sections of hair near the crown of the head, which are then braided together toward the
nape of the neck, gradually adding more hair to each section as it crosses in from the side into the
center of the braid structure. The final result incorporates all of the hair into a smoothly woven
pattern over the scalp.

Muff
A muff is a fashion accessory for outdoors usually made of a cylinder of fur or fabric with both
ends open for keeping the hands warm. It was introduced to women's fashion in the 16th century
and was popular with both men and women in the 17th and 18th centuries. By the early 20th
century, muffs were used in England only by women. It is also reported that the fashion largely
fell out of style in the 19th century.It briefly returned in the mid 1940s, and was also developed
as a motorcycle accessory for attachment as rider-protection and comfort during the cooler
months. In Roman times, the place of the glove was taken by long sleeves reaching to the hand,
and in winter special sleeves of fur were worn.

Vest
A waistcoat or vest, is a sleeveless upper-body garment. It is usually worn over a dress
shirt and necktie and below a coat as a part of most men's formal wear. It is also sported as the
third piece in the traditional three-piece male lounge suit. Historically, the vest can be worn
either in the place of or underneath a larger coat dependent upon the weather, wearer, and
setting.The term waistcoat is used in the United Kingdom and many Commonwealth
countries. The term vest is used widely in the United States and Canada, and is often worn as
part of formal attire or as the third piece of a lounge suit in addition to a jacket and trousers. The
term vest derives from the French language veste “jacket, sport coat". The term vest in European
countries refers to the A-shirt, a type of athletic vest. The Banyan, a garment of India, is
commonly called a vest in Indian English. A waistcoat has a full vertical opening in the front,
which fastens with buttons or snaps. Both single-breasted and double-breasted waistcoats exist,
regardless of the formality of dress, but single-breasted ones are more common. In a three piece
suit, the cloth used matches the jacket and trousers. Waistcoats can also have lapels or revers
depending on the style.

Tail Coat
A tailcoat is a knee-length coat with the front of the skirt cut away, so as to leave only the rear
section of the skirt, known as the tails.The tailcoat shares its historical origins in clothes cut for
convenient horse riding in the Early Modern era.
Thus, in 21st-century Western dress codes for men, mainly two types of tailcoats have survived:
1. Dress coat, an evening wear with a squarely cut away front, worn for formal white tie
2. Morning coat a day wear with a gradually tapered front cut away, worn for
formal morning dress
A morning coat is a single-breasted coat, with the front parts usually meeting at one button in the
middle, and curving away gradually into a pair of tails behind, topped by two ornamental buttons
on the waist seam. The coat can be grey or black as part of morning dress, and is usually worn
with striped, or very occasionally checked, trousers.The morning coat may also be worn as part
of a morning suit, which is mid-grey with matching trousers and waistcoat.

Stomacher
A stomacher is a decorated triangular panel that fills in the front opening of a
woman's gown or bodice. The stomacher may be boned, as part of a corset, or may cover the
triangular front of a corset. If simply decorative, the stomacher lies over the triangular front
panel of the stays, being either stitched or pinned into place, or held in place by the lacings of the
gown's bodice. A stomacher may also be a piece or set of jewellery to ornament a stomacher or
bodice.
In the 15th and 16th centuries, men and women both wore decorative stomachers with open-
fronted doublets and gowns. The form and style of these stomachers in combination with the
headgear is often used. Stomachers were often embroidered, or covered in pearls and
other jewels. They could be made of the same fabric as the dress or of a contrasting fabric.
Depending on the period, their bottom point was at waist level, or lower; towards the end of the
18th Century they could be as deep as 10 inches below the waistline, making it impossible for
the woman wearing them to sit. Necklines also defined the length of a stomacher.

Hobble Skirt
A hobble skirt was a skirt with a narrow enough hem to significantly impede the wearer's stride.
It was called a "hobble skirt" for that very reason; it seemed to hobble any woman as she tried to
walk around while wearing one. Hobble skirts were a short-lived fashion trend that peaked
between 1908 and 1914.The hobble skirt may have been inspired by one of the first women to fly
in an airplane. At a 1908 Wright Brothers demonstration in Le Mans, France, Mrs. Hart O. Berg
asked for a ride and became the first American woman to fly as a passenger in an airplane,
soaring for two minutes and seven seconds. She tied a rope securely around her skirt at her
ankles to keep it from blowing in the wind during the flight.The French fashion designer in the
Berg story might have been Paul Poiret who claimed credit for the hobble skirt. but it is not clear
whether the skirt was his invention or not