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fig. 4
When viewed from a satellite, the expanse strong Mediterranean winds, and an aver-
of greenhouses in Almería resembles a age of 18 degrees Celsius in the winter, its
monochromatic patchwork quilt, stitched climate is a formidable lure for mass agri
together by roads and punctuated by the cultural production. As these optimal cli-
rectangular balsas (swimming pool-like res- matic coincidences were matched with rel-
ervoirs) that hold pumped groundwater atively simply greenhouse construction
in reserve for on-demand irrigation. From techniques, an accessible groundwater sup
the ground, however, this apparent conti ply to offset the less than 300mm average
nuity disappears, revealing instead a land- annual rainfall, a precarious immigrant la-
scape of stark contrasts, exemplified by bour force, and the continuing appropria-
fig. 2 the route I followed from the 2249m-high, tion and deployment of advanced techno-
goat-strewn Sierra de Gádor mountains, logical innovations, the so-called el milagro
through fields of reflective white plast ic de Almería (the miracle of Almería) has
on the Campo de Dalías, a burgeoni ng emerged in less than 40 years.
company town called El Ejido, boom-era With nearly 27,000 hectares of green-
condos and high-end golf courses, and end- houses, located primarily in the low-alti-
ing at the glistening blue of the Mediterran- tude plains of the Campo de Dalías, and in
ean. While this area can easily be mistaken the higher Campo de Níjar, this so-called
as one giant vegetable factory due to the “plastic sea” produces almost 3 million tonnes
greenhouses’ dramatic aesthetic figuration of vegetables per year (2009), half of which
fig. 1 on what was once a barren desert back- are exported.3 These exports comprise 50
ground, the totalizing view from the sky un- per cent of the peppers, 25 per cent of the
fig. 3
der estimates the heterogeneous, continuous, tomatoes and cucumbers, and significant
and intensive human agency required on the quantities of eggplants, zucchini, green
ground in order to produce tender crops like beans, and melons for the major supermar-
tomatoes, even with the unique geographical ket chains in Europe.4 Such a scale of pro-
When the human desire to have the food we want whenever we and climatic conditions specific to Almería. duction is praised for contributing almost
want it is coupled with industrial production processes that benefit 2 billion euros per year to the struggling
El Milagro de Almería
the world’s most affluent, a global chain of political, economic, so- Spanish economy.5 In total, the 13,500 fam-
Before visiting, I was confronted during ily-owned greenhouse operations directly
cial, and environmental causalities is set in motion. At this moment my research with a wealth of superlative employ 40,000 people, while their agri-
of extravagant consumption, we often forget that food was once claims: Almería is, by turns, home to the business cluster of over 500 supporting
largest concentration of greenhouses in industries, such as plastic manufacturing
intimately and precariously tied to seasonal availability, local cli- the world, the driest area of Europe, the and recycling, vegetable packaging and dis
mate, and cultural heritage; it is only recently that food itself began primary source of Europe’s winter salads, tribution, and seed production and seed-
to appear as just another commodity, delivered by way of refrig- home to the largest population of foreign- ling breeding employs 19,000.6 In addition,
born residents in Spain, and the site of the the area provides itinerant employment
erated containers in a logistically optimized global transportation largest desalination plant in Europe. This for an estimated 100,000 migrant workers,
network. In response to the technopolitical advances in optimized collection of descriptive extremes—scalar, primarily from northern and sub-Saharan
geographical, industrial, economic, tech- Africa.7 The rapid expansion of this vege
yields and maximized capacities, many regions have moved to in- nological—nevertheless allow Almería to table economy is reflected in the 75 per cent
crease the exploitation of natural and human resources to further be compared with other industrial land- increase in the province’s population since
scapes of extraction and production devel- 1981, when there were only 7,000 hectares
capitalize on their localized advantages for industrial food produc oped to exploit a region’s natural resources. of greenhouses and the province was one
tion.1 Because of global market transformations, such local produc- What is especially unique to Almería, how- of the poorest in Spain;8 comparatively, in
tion is required to satisfy out-of-season desire. Exemplary of an ever, is that the foundation of the explo- 2012, Almería’s GDP per capita ranked
sive growth of the horticulture industry is third in the country.9
area marked by this global shift towards omni-seasonal availabil- the climate itself. With anywhere between
ity is the province of Almería in Andalucía, southern Spain. 3,200 and 3,500 hours of sunlight per year,2
fig. 6
autumn gota fría (torrential downpours);
much of what is not washed into the sea is
fig. 9
left instead to slowly leach toxins into the
groundwater.14 Aside from the excessive production of
As the industry has grown, plot sizes solid waste, which stubbornly refuses to
and the number of crop turnovers per year be dreamt away, the most pressing issue
have increased two- to three-fold, forcing in Almería is the dwindling supply of fresh,
the traditionally family-run farms to rely clean water. In addition to the 700m-deep
more heavily on paid labour, which is both confined aquifer well drilled in 1985,19 and
their highest cost (46 per cent as of 200515) the Benínar Reservoir, the largest source
fig. 8
and the area where they can most increase of fresh water is the desalination plant
fig. 5 profits by paying lower wages to legal and in Carboneras, completed in 2005 on the
ing practices of over-exploitation. Exces- illegal migrant workers. Almería has the eastern coast of the province, in the mid-
sive extraction has led to a 15m drop in highest population of immigrants in Spain, dle of the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park.
groundwater levels in 15 years, and helped over half of whom work in intensive, horti- Although this desalination plant is current-
produce an average rate of 5mm of subsid- culture-related industries.16 Some of the ly working at only 15 per cent capacity, it
ence per year in some areas of the prov- social and political economic consequences meets the needs of all the greenhouses in
ince.11 In the Campo de Dalías, where the of this demographic shift reported in recent the Campo de Níjar (some 7,000 hectares)
majority of the oldest and least technolo years include the sub-standard working and in so doing suggests that the seeming-
gically advanced greenhouses are concen conditions and subsistence-level wages ly infinite supply of the Mediterranean it-
trated, horticultural practices have led to of many underpaid migrant workers.17 The self is yet to be fully exploited. The Carbon
the Norias lagoon, which emerged as early influx of migrant settlements has also led eras plant has positioned the desalinated
as 1998 in a lutite quarry. This remarkable to labour disputes and race riots, parti water supply as the miraculously “sustain
site is assumed to be the result of a com- cularly in 2000 and 2008. Worker illnes able” future of the region, despite a cost of
fig. 7
bination of subsidence, increased waste- ses linked to long hours in excessive heat 1.5–4 times above that of pumped water20
water discharge, the shallowness of the breathing chemically tainted air in insuf- and the enormous amount of energy need
unconfined aquifer below and the decrease ficiently ventilated greenhouses have also ed for industrial processing.21
Water, Waste, and Labour
in extraction due to the decline in the water dramatically increased. Undoubtedly, technical innovations in
The success of this solar-enabled, desire- quality because of saltwater contamina In response to these attendant realities water recycling processes have been im-
fueled horticultural production is not with tion.12 The lagoon is currently being pumped accompanying the miracle economy, a num- plemented as partial solutions to the dwin-
out attendant costs— externalities riddled for treatment and reuse, as well to reclaim ber of corporate, academic, governmental, dling, and therefore increasingly expen-
with contradictions and violence. The most flooded land formerly home to makeshift and community programs have been ini- sive, water supply. In the most technically
serious impacts to the environment include housing for workers, ramshackle greenhous- tiated, spinning off other new industries, advanced, multi-tunnel, rigid plastic green
the depletion of the region’s aquifers and es, and industries such as waste manage- products, and research. The dream of trans houses, computer-controlled passive ven-
their contamination through polluted waste- ment; it is also used as an informal dumpsite forming these social and environmental tilation and water recycling systems are
water discharge and salt-water intrusion. for construction, and plastic and vegetable contingencies into neoliberal opportuni- employed to monitor and control nutrient
Although the adoption of drip irrigation, waste. Ironically, it is the only “naturally” ties for profit has many variations here, and salinity levels, adding fresh water and
enarenado artificial soil layering, and soil- vegetated area amidst hectares of closely including the development of the saline fertilizer depending upon the needs of the
less substrates such as perlite or coco-peat, packed greenhouses, with successional water-tolerant “RAF tomato,” a French vari plants. To promote the adoption of new
were intended to reduce water use through vegetation filling the abandoned parral ety developed in 1969 and sold as a luxury techniques and the potential of the indus-
decreased evaporation and direct applica structures and water edges. Because it product to high-end restaurants for 10–15 try to become more productive and sus-
tion of water and fertilizer to the plant roots, remains somewhat secluded, this postnat- euros per kilo. Another variation of this tainable, the Andalusian Medal-winning
these effects have not been fully realized.10 ural site has become a popular fishing spot dream is vegetable waste being used to vegetable producer Clisol Agro stocks their
Instead, the reliance on vernacular practi for migrant workers and home to a diverse generate energy by being processed into show greenhouse with over twenty variet-
ces of overwatering and the high cost of population of local and migrating birds. fuel briquettes, assuming that the entan- ies of colorful tomatoes and provides tours
using deep-well (confined aquifer) water, Officially, the increasing amounts of pest gled plastic from the twining vines can be and educational talks to tourists. Accord-
recycled wastewater, or desalinated water icides and chemical fertilizers, contami efficiently removed to prevent the release ing to my guide, Lola Gómez Ferrón, who
from Carboneras, contributes to continu- nated vegetable waste— over 700,000 toxic fumes when it is subsequently burned.18 is also the founder of the company, in the
fig. 10
fig. 11
energy required to desalinate its water company its growth than, Difunta Correa,
must inevitably be understood as a operat- especially considering the offerings she