I ~II

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 23, March 1998, pp.44-48

Effect of various softeners on the performance of polyester-viscose ring and

air-jet spun yam fabrics
. I C Sharma, D P Chattopadhyay, K N Chatterjee, A Mukhopadhyay &A Kumar
The Technological Institute of Textile and Sciences, Bhiwani 127021, India

Received 4 March 1996; revised received and accepted 24 December 1996

The effects of various softeners, viz. cellulase enzyme, caustic soda, a combination of cellulase
enzyme and caustic soda, and non-ionic softener on the performance of twill fabrics made from
polyester-viscose ring and air-jet spun yarns have been investigated in terms of flexural rigidity, tensile
strength and crease recovery. The influence of pick density on the above properties has also been
studied. It is observed that crease recovery and flexural rigidity improve considerably for the fabrics
treated with cellulase enzyme followed by caustic soda, reasonably for the fabrics treated individually
with the cellulase enzyme and caustic soda and marginally for the fabrics treated with non-ionic
softener. On the other hand, the fabric strength is affected in all the above cases to a small extent. The
effect of chemical treatment is greater on the mechanical properties of air-jet spun yarn fabrics. With
varying pick del}sity,the response of air-jet yarn fabrics to chemical agents is different than that of ring
yarn fabrics. Improvement in crease recovery and flexural rigidity is greater for air-jet yarn fabrics at the
cost of reduced tensile strength.

Keywords: Air-jet spun yarn, Crease recovery, Flexural rigidity, Non-ionic softener, Ring-spun
yarn, Tensile strength

1 Introduction
Fabrics made from air-jet spun yam have higher
flexural rigidity than those made from ring-spun
yam . This is due to the interlocking of wrapper
fibre at yam cross-over which restricts yam
movement during fabric deformation, resulting in a
stiff fabric. The formation of wrapper fibre under
high tension in air-jet spinning results in a high
component force directed towards the yam core.
This high internal pressure severly restricts the
fibre movement during bending, preventing fibre
strain relieP. Air-jet spun yam fabrics are less
prone to pilling than ring yam fabrics.
In the present work, an attempt has been made
to reduce the rigidity of air-jet spun yam fabrics by
the application of enzyme (cellulase), alkali and a
commercial non-ionic softener. Cellulase enzymes
are being widely used today for eco-friendly bio-
polishing and softening of cellulosic garments.
They are very specific in their action and act only
on the cellulosic portion in cellulosic blended
fabrics . Alkali, on the other hand, attacks the
polyester component as cellulose is rather resistant
to mild alkaline attack. Therefore, both the
treatments have been applied separately and in
tandem and the effects of these treatments have
been compared with those of the commercial
softener.
2 Materials and Methods
2.1 Materials
Six twill weave fabrics were made using
polyester-viscose (65:35) ring-spun yams as warp
and polyester-viscose (65:35) ring/air-jet spun
yams as weft with different pick densities (18, 20
and 22). The properties of ring and air-jet spun
yams are given in Table 1. The fabrics were given
different softening treatments (Table 2).
2.2 Methods
The fabrics were conditioned for 24h and all the
tests were carried out in an atmosphere' of 20±2°C
and 65±2% RH as per the standard procedures laid
down in the B.S. Handbook, ASTM, etc.

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 SHARMA et a/.: RING AND AIR-JET SPUN YARN FABRlCS 45

2.2.1 Fabric Mass and Fabric Thickness

Goodbrand's tensile strength tester and expressed
Fabric area density was determined as detailed in g/tex. Fabrics were tested according to BS:2576-
in BS : 2491 (1971). Thickness was measured by 1967.
the R & B cloth thickness tester of James H. Heal
& Co. Ltd, Halifax, England, at a pressure foot of 3 Results and Discussion
20 g/cm2• The physical and mechanical properties of air-
jet spun yarn fabrics and ring-spun yam fabrics
2.2.2 Crease Recovery
before and after the softening treatments are given
Crease recovery was determined as detailed in in Tables 3-5.
IS:4681-1968 using the Shirley crease recovery
tester. 3.1 Fabric Thickness and Fabric Weight
It is clear from Table 3 that the thickness of the
2.2.3 Flexural Rigidity
enzyme- treated fabric is less than that of the grey
Stiffness was determined using the Shirley
fabric as the enzyme treatment leads to removal of
stiffness tester. Fabrics were tested according to
ASlM 0: 1388-557. very fine surface cellulosic fibres .A reasonable
decrease in the thickness of the fabric treated with
2.2.4 Tensile Strength caustic soda has been found which may be due to
The tensile strength was measured on the dissolution of surface fibres. However, the
fabric treated with cellulase enzyme followed by
Table I~roperties of polyester-viscose ring and air-jet NaOH shows the lowest thickness. In fabric treated
spun yams
with non-ionic softener (Auxisoftener NI), the
Parameter 7.2540/2
0
12.54
0.64
3.71
65/35
3139
16.91
6
MJSyarn 065/35
15.240/2
0.81
21.55
]4.36
3810
Ring 9.1yarn
1.67
extent of decrease is much lower as compared to
.cm2 Thin (-50%)
that in other treatments. The increase in pick
density with ring and air-jet spun yarns shows no
definite trend of decrease in thickness.
It is also observed from Table 3 that the weight
of all the fabrics decreases to marginal exient due
to the softening treatments. Fabrics treated with
cellulase enzyme followed by NaOH show higher
reduction in weight in comparison to fabrics
subjected to other treatments. However, weight is
not much affected with non-ionic softener

Table 2-Various softening treatments given to grey fabrics

Cellulase enzyme NaCH Cellulase enzyme Non-ionic softener (Auxisoftener
& Nl-a polyglycolic long-chain
NaOH compound)
Cellulase enzyme, NaOH(2%) Cellulase enzyme, Auxisoftener. 4 gIl
1.5% on the 1.5% on the weight Acetic acid, I gIl
weight of viscose of viscose
Temperature,50-55OC Temperature, R.T. Temperature,50-55OC Temperature, 40450C
Duration, 60 min Duration, 20 min Duration, 60 min Duration, 30 min
L:M=40:1 L:M=40:1 L:M=40:] L:M=40:1
pH,44.5 pH, 44.5
Washed with dilute N~C03 Washed, neutralised and Washed with N~C03' dried
and dried dried and then treated with
2% NaOH under the
following conditions:
Temperature, R.T.
Duration, 20 min
L:M=40:1
Washed and neutralised
 46 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., MARCH 1998

D
B
A
Picks/em
0.612
0.601
201.85
202.15
207.89
207.07
C
0.372
212.21
0.367
200.26
201.77
0.365
0.356
E
214.07
0.380
0.361
0.398
22
0.357
202.62
0.378
0.360
0.352
0.355
0.407
0.607
0.608
0.408
0.401
214.55
0.603
208.45
0.405
199.64
216.21
213.09
0.391
0.411
0.614
(-0.42)
(-41.4)
(-1.02)
(-0.69)
(-1.14)
(-38.3)
(-0.57)
(-41.2)
(-0.61)
(-1.44)
(-I.
(-0.60)
(-1.69»
(-41.1)
(-37.8)
(-0.76)
(-33.4)
(-1.8)
(-38.1)
(-36.3)
(-1.60)
(-1.55)
(-37.4)
(-0.45)
(-33.7)
(-33.5)
(-33.0)
(-1.17)
(-33.3)
(-32.9)
(-1.78)
(-0.72)
(-37.6)
Table A
18 76)3-Effect
201.07
213.35
212.98
203.31
210.35
215.57
203.86
214.87
206.79
207.95
214.01
20
0.382
0.369
210.92
209.95
207.15
0.370
209.45
200.10 (-39.4)
(-39.9)of Weight,
(-39.7)
(-29.9)
(-39.5) glm2
various softening Thickness,
treatments rom and thickness of ring and air-jet spun yam fabrics
on weight
and
The E---Control
C-Fabric
values
[Warptreated
A-Fabric inand fabric.
parentheses
withblend
weft cellulase
indicateenzyme
enzyme;
composition, &B-Fabric
% change 2%
dueNaOH;
65:35 to treatment
PN; D-Fabric
treated
Warp with
with
and treated
respect
2%
weft NaOH;with
to control
count,40/2 Auxisoftener
fabric.
tex; and NI; twill]
Weave,
s Fabric

treatment as no surface dissolution takes place in fabrics treated with cellulase enzyme followed by
this case. caustic soda, improvement in crease recovery
3.2 Crease Recovery increases with the increase in pick density. A
It is observed from Table 4 that the crease similar trend is also observed when the fabrics are
recovery improves substantially after all types of treated with the above softeners separately .. For
finishing treatments. Treatment with cellulase fabrics treated with Auxisoftener, no define trend
enzyme followed by caustic soda gives the best is observed.
result. The effect of Auxisoftener NI on crease
recovery is minimum while that of caustic soda 3.3 Flexural Rigidity
and cellulase enzyme (when treated separately) is It may be seen from Table 4 that cellulase
moderate. It is interesting to note that although the enzyme treated fabrics exhibit considerably lower
decrease in thickness is maximum in case of fabric value of flexural rigidity. This is due to the
treated with cellulase enzyme followed by caustic hydrolysis of 1-4 glucosidic bond of the cellulose
soda, still the fabric exhibits maximum crease molecules, which, in turn, leads to decrease in
recovery value. The above phenomenon could be modulus of fibre constituents in fabric. Increase in
explained from the decrease in fabric weight per inter-yam spacing in the fabric due to removal of
unit area. Higher reduction in fabric weight will fine fibrils from surface may also contribute to the
result in more open fabric which may assist fibre above phenomenon.
strain relief in yam during creasing and hence Fabrics treated with NaOH show lower rigidity
better recovery. than the control fabrics. Also, there is a
It is further observed from Table 4 that for the considerable decrease in flexural rigidity of fabrics
same pick density, th~ air-jet spun yam fabrics when treated with cellulase enzyme followed by
show substantial improvement in crease recovery caustic soda. The above phenomenon is due to the
compared to ring-spun yam fabrics. This may be morphogical change in the constituent fibre which
due to the partial dissolution of wrapper fibres, decreases the modulus of fibre and ,in turn,
which leads to greater ease of fibre movement as decreases the fabric bending modulus.
yam gets flatten at creasing area, resulting in The extent of improvement in flexural rigidity is
development of less stress and strain during higher for air-jet spun yam fabric. This
creasing. For both ring and air-jet spun yam phenomenon can be explained through the

Ii' IIIII IIHlI i

 SHARMA et af.: RING AND AIR-JET SPUN YARN FABRICS 47

Table 4--Effect of various softening treatments on the total crease recovery and total flexural rigidity of ring and air-jet spun
yarn fabrics

Fabric E
D
238.3
254.5
1.20
249.4
3.91
3.17
218.3
232.9
221.9
242.6
219.2
1.03
3.42
3.17
3.83
202.2
1.41
1.14
221.7
237.4
2.56
3.08
3.42
2.67
3.74
1.31
237.8
C2.43
1.42
1.30
234.8
4.00
4.42
3.51215.9
247.3
4.36
216.4
227.0
230.8
206.7
218.8
212.2
217.5
B
240.7
2.34
3.12
E2.78
238.5
227.8
1.58
3.38
A
231.0
1.75
1.59
I.71
1.52
224.5
1.88
225.8
1.91
1.73
1.82
1.95
1.79
1.71
1.54
1.83
1.50
1.98
1.42
1.44
1.61
1.84
1.85
1.64
1.97
1.92
1.51
Weft
1.66
2.01
1.99
1.82
1.89
1.72
1.86
1.78
1.94
1.74
1.58
1.76
1.67
1.80
1.43
1.63
1.92
Weft
2.08
(+ AI)
1.70
(+8.7)
(-6.5)
1.84
1.77
1.95
(+11.2)
(-69.3)
(-24.0)
(-23.0)
1.55
1.79
1.6)
(+2.3)
(-18.6)
(-65.5)
(-66.5)
(+1.6)
(+2.2)
(+1.1)
(+6.7)
(+9.3)
(-20.7)
(-68.1)
(+9.4)
(-71.6)
(-70.3)
(+2.3)
(+3.7)
(+8.0)
(-2.4)
(+7.9)
(+11.7)
(+6.0)
(+8.4)
(-1.2)
(-1.3)
(+1.6)
(-26.0)
(-1.7)
(6.94)
(8.86)
(3.2)
(9.64)
(I.I6)
(10.12)
(4.71)
(3.36)
(4.35)
(5.32)
(1.24)
(1.24)
(6.3)
(3.8)
(2.15)
(1.01
(5.05)
(5.76)
Warp
(6.53)
(3.85)
(1.66)
(3.47)
(7.1
(6.73)
(2.71)
(4.78)
(6.09)
(1.09)
(3.52)
(3.67)
(9.04)
(5.78)
(5.5)
(5.0)
(1.2)
(4.82)
Warp
(4.8)
(6.45)
(5.37)
(3.5)) ED
A(-21.0)
(-66.7)
B
(-67.9)
(-20.9)
(-69.8)
C
(-23.2) Flexural
1.24
1.31
Crease recovery, deg Tensile rigidity,mg-cm2
strength, g/tex
(+7.2) 2.86 (-19.1)
bric. Fabric
to control fabric. 233.2
Table 5--Effect of various softening treatments on the tensile strength of ring and air-jet spun yarn fabrics

minimum for fabrics treated with Auxisoftener NI.

dissolution of wrapper fibre in case of air-jet yarn
fabric as with the removal of sheath fibre, core
fibres are able to flatten easily while bending takes
place, leading to less flexural rigidity. It may also
be noted that the percentage improvement
gradually increases as the pick density increases
for both types of fabric. However, the air-jet yarn
fabric is more responsive to finishing process than
the ring-yarn fabric.
3.4 Tensile Strength
It is clear from Table 5 that there is a marginal
loss in strength due to all types of softening
treatments. However, the maximum drop in
strength is observed for fabrics treated with
cellulase enzyme followed by NaOH, and
The above phenomenon could be explained from
the morphological change in the fibre constituents
in fabric and fabric weight. Fabrics treated
separately with NaOH and cellulase enzyme show
moderate drop in strength as expected.
All air-jet spun yarn fabrics, except the one
treated with Auxisoftener NI, show higher loss in
weft-way tensile strength as compared to ring-spun
yarn fabrics at the same pick density. The above
phenomenon is expected as the dissolution of
wrapper fibres reduces inter-fibre friction in the
yarn, which, in turn, reduces the fabric strength.
However, warp-way tensile strength does not
follow any particular trend with different types of
softener. Again, with increase in pick density, the
 48 INDIAN 1. FIBRE TEXT. RES., MARCH 1998

tensile strength of the fabrics does not show any above properties is greater for air-jet spun yarn
definite tend for different softening treatments. fabric as compared to ring-spun yam fabric.

4 Conclusions
Thickness, weight, flexural rigidity and strength
values of fabrics made from ring and air-jet spun
yams decrease by all the softening treatments
studied. Crease recovery improves substantially
with the application of different softening
treatments, the maximum effect being observed
with cellulase enzyme followed by caustic soda
treatment and the least with non-ionic softener
(Auxisoftener NI) .Cellulase enzyme and caustic
soda treatments when applied separately give
moderate effect .The extent of influence on all the
Acknowledgement
The authors are grateful to Prof. R C D Kaushik,
Director, TIT&S, Bhiwani, for providing facilities
to carry out this work. They are also grateful to the
management and staff of Bhiwani Textile Mills for
the preparation of fabric samples.
Reference
1 Vohs K M, Barker R L & Mohamed M H, in Objective
measurement: Applications to product design and process
control, edited by S Kawabata, R Postle and M Niwa
(Text. Mach. Soc, Japan), 1985, 121.

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