Tom Stienstra's Outdoors

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OUtdOOrs A guide to the Bay Area’s best state and

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MOUNT TAMALPAIS
STATE PARK
Britt Williams Baker watches
the fog roll up to the East
Peak on Mount Tamalpais in
Marin County.
An insider’s guide to
the great outdoors
In nearly four decades as The San Francisco Chronicle’s outdoors col-
umnist, Tom Stienstra, left, has made sharing his love of nature his life’s
work. He’s hiked roughly 45,000 miles, traveled a million miles on the
road and flown 275,000 miles over the Bay Area and beyond. He’s
camped, boated, fished and cycled at more than 250 of the greater Bay
Area’s state and regional parks, wilderness and recreation areas, popular
and little-known spots. This magazine is a collection of his favorites. Here
he shares some tales and tips from his adventures.
Q: Where did your love of Q: What has all that time “should” list, your first priority
the outdoors come from? outside taught you? is to do what sets you free, not
little things that can fill up your
A: As a child, I had too much A: When you connect with days with nothingness. For big
energy and ambition for the nature, all your senses can come trips, schedule dates so you’re
amount of time my family had alive. You become open to expe- locked in to go. It helps to re-
to spend camping, fishing and riences that seem created just solve to improve your fitness.
hiking. I developed this pent-up for you. Along the way, you can You’ll find that the endorphins
need for more. Then, at 21, after have surprise moments that kick in out there and physical
a near-death experience, I decid- seem as if you have been activity becomes rhythmic and
ed to live life to the fullest. I touched by magic. The opposite euphoric. No matter your age or
wouldn’t settle for anything else. is what you see out there on the ability, there is a trail for you.
Outdoors, I felt released from road, where people drive as if in
all cares, the post-traumatic a tunnel, disconnected from the Q: How do you get kids to
stress, and set free to hike, world. They know nothing of appreciate the outdoors?
camp, fish, boat, bike, track what it’s like to take in the scent A: Youngsters want action. Go
wildlife and explore, and then of sage carried across a high to a place where you’re guaran-
write about it. desert, to dip your hands in a teed to see wildlife, like Pierce
cold stream and wash the sleep Ranch at Point Reyes for elk, or
Q: How much time do you out of your eyes at dawn, or to
spend outside? Elkhorn Slough at Moss Land-
taste the hint of granite in ing for sea otters. They don’t
A: I often integrate a half day in spring water at 11,000 feet in want to fly-fish; they want to
the field with a half day writing, the High Sierra. catch fish. They love identifying
and that usually works out to Q: What’s the biggest chal- animals and birds, looking for
about 175 to 200 days a year lenge getting folks outdoors? bugs under rocks. End the day
with at least one outdoor ad- with campfire time, with marsh-
venture in there. A: Time. When you make a mallows, s’mores and >
San Francisco Chronicle | 3

PEAK URBAN COASTAL
EXPERIENCES ESCAPES RETREATS
Castle Rock State Park 10 Indian Rock Park 30 Año Nuevo State Park 50
Butano State Park 12 China Camp State Park 32 Pillar Point Harbor 52
Skyline’s Highway 35 14 Alcatraz Island 34 Marin Headlands 54
East Bay Skyline National Recreation Marina Green to Fort Point 38 Pescadero State Beach 58
Trail 18 Tilden Regional Park 40 Point Reyes National Seashore 60
Angel Island State Park 20 Coastal Trail 42 Stinson Beach 64
Mount Tamalpais State Park 22 Lake Chabot Regional Park 46 Tomales Bay 68
Mount Diablo State Park 26
4 | San Francisco Chronicle

< stories about Bigfoot, bears and up at dawn in the Butte Sink in the
surprise encounters in far-off Sacramento Valley. Same with track-
places. ing the bears of the Ukonom Basin
of the Marble Mountain Wilderness,
Q: What has surprised you most
scoping the Sierra bighorn sheep in
on the trail?
the Eastern Sierra out of Bishop,
A: In the past 10 years, I’ve seen and my favorite this year, to track,
how some people rely on GPS and spot and stalk wild horses in the
electronic maps. When you get into Devil’s Garden in Modoc National
a bubble with your phone, you are Forest.
blocked off from everything around
Q: The one hike you never get
you. You don’t develop skills to read
tired of?
the land and are disconnected from
other people. In the John Muir Wil- A: The 34-mile Skyline-to-the-Sea
derness, about a half-mile above Trail, from Castle Rock State Park
Charlotte Lake, my son Jeremy and I through Waterman’s Gap to Big
were eating a trail lunch, and a guy Basin Redwoods and Rancho del
walked by us, back and forth three Oso at Highway 1. It takes three
times, staring into his phone at an days and two nights. There’s a sec-
digital trail map, and then turned to tion as you enter Big Basin out of
us and asked, “How do you get Waterman’s, where you walk across
down to the lake?” My son pointed a massive sandstone outcrop and
at the lake, and said: “It’s right there. then beyond on this remote knife-
You walk to it.” edge ridge, that nobody sees unless
they do this hike. Then on day
Q: Any tips for solo hikers?
three, the prize: the three waterfalls,
A: Always be ready to rely solely Berry Creek, Silver and the Golden
on yourself. If you have to hope Cascade. My favorite single spot in
your way through anything, you’re the greater Bay Area is from the
not ready to go solo. Before you brink of Silver Falls on up a few
depart, share your trip plan with feet to the lower section of the Gold-
somebody. When you’re done, en Cascade.
phone in and let them know you’re
Q: How did you select the parks
back. Those with medical concerns
for this magazine?
should carry SPOT, a satellite mes-
senger. If you get in trouble, you A: It took three incarnations. The
can send a satellite-transmitted first was where I rated all the parks,
rescue beacon that identifies your 1 to 250, and thought I’d do a count-
GPS location. down. That ended up being too pre-
dictable, with many well-known
Q: Besides water, one thing you
sites. Then I went to a list of the
always take with you?
more obscure sites, but that over-
A: I always carry a camera of some looked many of the gems that set the
kind. A photograph can capture an greater Bay Area apart from every
unrepeatable moment. My favorite other metropolitan area in the coun-
photo this year was taken in the try. So I ended up with a mix based
Modoc wildlands, when after five on the region’s diverse landscape:
hours of searching, we saw a wild mountains, foothills, coast, bay, estu-
INLAND stallion emerge from behind a juni-
per into a clearing and stare at us,
aries, wetlands, grasslands, forests,
streams and lakes.
ADVENTURES massive neck arching, shoulder
muscles flexing and dark coat glow-
Q: Best piece of trail advice?
Big Basin Redwoods State Park 72 ing in the afternoon sun. A: Years ago, my dad told me: “Peo-
Briones Regional Park 74 ple say to look at everything like it’s
Del Valle Regional Park 76 Q: Favorite spot for wildlife?
the first time you’ve seen it. They’ve
Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park 78 A: It can be electric to kayak out to got it backwards. The secret is to
Pescadero Creek Park 80 sea from Moss Landing in Monterey look at everything like it’s the last
Samuel P. Taylor State Park 82
Bay where the humpbacks can rise time you’ll ever see it.” That wisdom
Sunol Regional Wilderness 86
up right next to you, to stalk the can help you appreciate even the
Los Vaqueros Reservoir 88
Uvas Canyon County Park 90
game trails at Pierce Ranch to find smallest moment in every wild
the elk, and to watch a marsh wake place.

PEAK EXPERIENCES
5 Mount Tamalpais State Park
8 Angel Island State Park
% Mount Diablo State Park
* East Bay Skyline National Recreation Trail
a Skyline’s Highway 35
e Butano State Park
h Castle Rock State Park
FPO URBAN ESCAPES

6 China Camp State Park
9 Coastal Trail
0 Marina Green to Fort Point
! Alcatraz Island
@ Indian Rock Park
# Tilden Regional Park
& Lake Chabot Regional Park
COASTAL RETREATS
1 Tomales Bay
2 Point Reyes National Seashore
4 Stinson Beach
7 Marin Headlands
b Pillar Point Harbor
c Pescadero State Beach
f Año Nuevo State Park
MOUNT DIABLO STATE PARK

The Mary Bowerman Trail rings the summit
of Mount Diablo and leads to an overlook LEGEND
of the Devil’s Pulpit and beyond into the
Livermore Valley. Beach Climbing Fishing
Boating Cycling Hiking
Camping Dogs allowed Historical interest

20
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Mo erey Bay
Mont
Monterey

PEAK
EXPERIENCES
MOUNT TAMALPAIS
STATE PARK
Hikers wait for the fog to roll over the East Peak.

OUTDOORSPEAK EXPERIENCES
Castle Rock:
A seat with
the world
at your feet
SANTA CRUZ COUNTY —
San Mateo S.F. Fremont
Atop Goat Rock, where sculpt- Bay
ed sandstone makes for a per-
fect seat, you can feel as if you Palo Alto
are on top of the world. The S
Sa
San
an
an
view crowns Castle Rock State Sunnyvale
Su
Sunn
S
Sun
un
unn
nn
nyva
nyv
yval
yva
y
yvva
vale Jo
Jo
Jose
ose
osse
e
Park. Looking west, you can
see across a sea of conifers, esc
escadero
Pescadero
across Big Basin to Santa Cruz Lo
Lo
Los
oss
and Monterey Bay. On perfect- 10 MILES
ILE
ILES
IL
LES
L ES
E
G
Gato
Gat
Gatos s
ly clear days, those with sharp

vision can see the white of the
ocean breakers. On foggy days, you are above a blanket
of gray that’s just as pretty. The top of Goat Rock has a
few cupped “chairs,” shaped by wind-driven rain over
thousands of years. This top-of-the-world perch is one
of the best sites anywhere for a trail lunch. Castle Rock
also has sensational hikes to a waterfall, along the base
of honey-combed sandstone, to a trail camp, the head-
waters of the San Lorenzo River, and the best launch
point for the 34-mile Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail.
The drive People buy To Goat Rock From the

sport cruiser parking area at Castle Rock
motorcycles just for State Park, take the
this trip. On the Saratoga Gap Trail. The trail
Peninsula, you drive descends into a lush canyon CASTLE ROCK
through redwoods en and then emerges in about STATE PARK
route to Sky Londa at 40 minutes along the base
Technical climbing is
Skyline; on weekends of Goat Rock (on your right,
permitted at Goat Rock.
at the Skywood honeycombed sandstone)
Trading Post, a market for views (on your left). The
and delicatessen, you trail continues to a junction
might see hundreds of with the Ridge Trail. Turn
motorcycles. Turn left right and look for the cutoff
and cruise Skyline on your right for the spur
(watch out for road trail to the top of Goat Rock. Trail camp Requires an Campfires When fires are
bikes), with a great This final spur leads to the easy 2.8-mile hike; $15 per permitted, wood bundles
view at Vista Point top, where a short scramble night, $8 per extra vehicle, are available for purchase;
(next to Coal Creek puts you in position for that open year-round; gathering firewood,
Open Space Preserve, view of Monterey Bay. When first-come, first-served. including twigs and leaves,
on the left) over ready, return to the main Use the self-registration is prohibited. Campfires
Stanford, Hoover trail and turn right to system at the parking lot. are often prohibited in
Tower and the South complete the loop hike. It’s Up to six people per site. summer.
Bay. an easy 5.3-mile round trip.

Climbing Technical Access Good to know On Get there GPS location: 15000
climbing is permitted at Wheelchair weekends, the parking lot Skyline Blvd., Los Gatos. $8
Goat Rock. I once access is limited, can fill. Many park on the parking. No smoking, glass
free-climbed it with ropes impossible when shoulder of adjacent Skyline containers, dogs, firearms,
and a spotter and was trails are wet. No and walk in to avoid paying bikes on trails (OK on service
able to rock-scramble to mountain bikes the fee; there have been roads). Castle Rock State Park,
the top, so you know it on trails. reports of cars being 408-867-2952,
isn’t that difficult. vandalized while parked www.parks.ca.gov.
there.

Butano State Park: Camping,

redwoods and rim-top views
SAN MATEO COUNTY — Camping Butano has
Everywhere you look at three styles of
Butano State Park, an- campsites: 21 drive-in
other reward is unveiled. sites, 18 walk-in sites
I’ve been exploring for a and a trail camp with
long time, and Butano is eight sites for
one of my favorite parks. backpacking. The fee
Here, you get hikes on is $35 per night.
trails through redwoods Reserve at www.
reservecalifornia.
to match your ambition;
com. The trail camp
a mountain bike route on
requires a 5.5-mile
the Butano Rim that is hike (one way) with a
one of the best anywhere; 1,550-foot climb;
and campsites to suit pump-filter water
your style, whether it’s from a creek about
RV, tent or a distant trail 400 yards away.
camp. There are two Register at the park
little-seen attractions: a entrance for trail
hidden abandoned air- sites, first-come,
strip with a view and the first-served.
Candelabra Tree in a
Access The
remote forest on the edge
campground and
of Gazos Canyon. main park road are
wheelchair
Millbrae
accessible. No
Jackson Flats Loop San Mateo
Candelabra Tree The tree is mountain bikes on
Fremont
A 5-mile loop has a named for its five huge trails; mountain bikes
steep start at the Mill stems, which extend from a permitted on Butano
Ox Trailhead. That Half Moon Palo Alto trunk that is 20 feet around. Rim (a fire/service
climb ends at the Bay From the park entrance road), with access
Butano Rim, a service Sunnyvale
Sunn
Sunny
Sun
S
Su
un
unnyv
ny
yv
yval
yva
vallle
e station, take the Año Nuevo from Cloverdale
road. Turn right. The La H
L Honda
onda
onda
n da
a Trail, steep for a mile (the Road, not from within
route has good views Pescadero
escade
ero
er
ero former lookout view is the park.
over the valley below s Gatos
Los
Los G blocked by trees), up to the
and glimpses of the Olmo Fire Road, then History Butano is the
Pacific Spanish word for a
ocean. To complete Ocean 10
0MMILES
MILE
IL
ILE
L continue a short distance to
the loop, turn right on the turnoff on the right for drinking cup made
Jackson Flats Trail. It the Candelabra Trail. from a bull’s horn.
plummets a short Abandoned airstrip Hidden on Descend into Gazos Canyon Get there GPS
distance over a a sloped flat near the back of the to the short spur for the location: 1500
sandstone face, then canyon, 6 miles in, off the Butano Candelabra Tree. Cloverdale Road,
enters forest for an Rim, is an abandoned airstrip Pescadero. $10 per
Little Butano Creek The
easy walk through that provides views to the west of vehicle.
best easy walk at Butano is
redwoods. Best Butano Canyon and beyond to Map/brochure
the Little Butano Creek Trail.
all-round hike in the the ocean. It is best to get there available at entrance
It runs for 1.5 miles on the
park. on a mountain bike off the kiosk. No dogs on
center of the floor of Butano
access point at Cloverdale Road trails or service roads
Canyon along a pleasant
(not from inside the park). The in the park’s interior.
creek edged by redwoods
climb is 600 feet in the first 2 Butano Redwoods
and ferns. The trailhead is on
miles, a challenge, then a less State Park,
the main park road on the
steep climb of 800 feet in 4 650-879-2040,
left, just before you reach the
miles, with a spur on the right www.parks.ca.gov.
turnoff for the campground.
that leads to the site.

BUTANO REDWOODS
STATE PARK
Views of the Butano trail camp.
Nabeel Awan and his 14-month-old
daughter, Aairah, walk along the Little
Butano Creek, left.

PURISIMA CREEK
REDWOODS
PRESERVE
The North Ridge Trail near
Skyline’s Highway 35 in
San Mateo County.
Skyline’s Highway 35:

13 trailheads lead to
parks, nature center
S.F. Bay
SAN MATEO COUNTY — You could search every corner
of the nation for the best drive with views, parks and Re
Red
Red
edw
ed dwood
dwwood
w
Redwoodood
d
Fremont
trailheads and not find a better one than the Peninsula Cit
Citty
ity
ty
City
Skyline’s Highway 35. In the 28.6 miles from Highway 92
Ha
H
Hal
allf
alf
a lf
Half Palo
P
Pa
a Alto
to Castle Rock State Park in Santa Cruz County (see Page M
Moo
oon
oo
Moonon
o n
Pacific O
10), there are 13 launch points for views, hikes, mountain Bay
ayy
Mountain
bike trips and many surprises. The surprises include the View
Methuselah Tree, the Tafoni Monolith and many pristine

ce a
Pescadero
sites along creeks in canyons and clearings with long- Los
n
Gatos
distance views. Here are the highlights, north to south. 10 MILES
Purisima Creek Redwoods, 1 El Corte de Windy Hill From Spring Ridge, a

A 6.5-mile loop drops 1,600 Madera A sweeping view across the South
feet into redwoods in 6.5-mile hike that Bay. 7.5-mile loop descends into
Whittemore Gulch, before leads to the Tafoni foothills above Portola. Location:
returning on a wilderness ridge. Monolith, and From Sky Londa, 2.3 miles south.
Location: From Highway 92, then to an picnic
Coal Creek At Cloud’s Rest,
4.5 miles south on right. site perched at
views plummet to the South Bay,
2,200-foot Vista
then trail descends to Alpine
Purisima Creek Redwoods, 2 Point. Location:
Road. Location: From Sky Londa,
The Redwood Trail is a short, From Highway 92,
6 miles south.
easy loop walk through 9.6 miles south.
redwoods and links to a trail Russian Ridge A 0.7-mile hike
that descends along Wunderlich The leads to 2,572-foot Borel Hill for a
headwaters of Purisima Creek. 4.5-mile loop view to the west across the
Location: From Highway 92, descends into a coastal foothills to the ocean.
6.5 miles south on right. pristine and Location: From Sky Londa, 6
remote redwood miles south at Gate #RR01.
Methuselah Tree This canyon with
Skyline Ridge A short walk
2-minute walk leads to the Alambique Creek.
through a tunnel emerges at a
biggest redwood on the north Location: From
nature center perched on stilts at
Peninsula. Location: From Highway 92, 10
Alpine Pond. Location: At Alpine
Highway 92, 9.1 miles south. miles south.
Road.

Skyline Ridge An
easy 1-mile descent
leads to little
Horseshoe Lake and
trail network. OK for
mountain bikes.
Location: From
Alpine Road, 1 mile
south.
Upper Stevens
Creek A trailhead for
a great mountain
bike ride, 2 miles
downhill on a fire
road along Grizzly
Flat and into Upper
Stevens Creek
County Park.
Location: From
Alpine Road, 2 miles
south on the left.
Long Ridge This
4.6-mile loop hike
descends into a
valley and then
climbs 400 feet to
Long Ridge and the
Stegner Bench, a
prize lookout across
Butano Rim and the
coast near
Pescadero. Location:
From Alpine Road,
3.3 miles south.
Saratoga Gap The
trail leads into Upper
Stevens Creek
County Park.
Location: Junction
with Highway 9.
Get there Parking,
access free.
Midpeninsula Open
Space District,
650-691-1200,
www.openspace.
org; San Mateo
County Department
of Parks,
650-363-4020,
http://parks.smcgov.
org.
LONG RIDGE OPEN SPACE

PRESERVE
Above, Peter’s Creek feeds into
Portola Redwoods State Park en
route to its confluence with
Pescadero Creek. Left, hikers walk
the North Ridge Trail.
Skyline Trail:
ALAMEDA COUNTY — All this Martinez
trail needs is a few campgrounds
Richmond
along the way and you’d have one Walnut
Creek
31 miles
of the best urban hikes in Amer-
ica. As it is, 31 miles with a shuttle Berkeley
ride home each day, it is a spectac-
ular two-day trek (as I did it) or Oakland
and
a
an
n
nd
d
across the
San
three days for the less ambitious. Francisco
S.F.
The East Bay Skyline National Bay
Trail runs from Lake Chabot 10 MILES
Castro
Cast
Ca
C
Cas
ast
as
a sttro
Valley
Va
V a
all
al
ro
llley
ey
Regional Park near Castro Valley
best of the to Wildcat Canyon Regional Park

in the Richmond hills. You pass through six parks in the East
Bay Regional Park District, getting a feel for many of the
East Bay
region’s wildest lands and loveliest views. Bicycles and hors-
es are permitted on 65 percent of the trail. In addition, each of
the sections can make for a great day hike. Here’s how to do it,
south to north:

Bort Meadow to MacDon-
EAST BAY ald Gate From the picnic
SKYLINE area at Bort Meadow at the
NATIONAL head of Grass Valley, the
TRAIL trail climbs steeply and then
becomes a service road. You
A view of San
head north (look for a view
Pablo Reservoir
window in the bushes to the
from Nimitz Way
Trail in Tilden
right) and then drop 500
Nature Area. feet to Redwood Road,
Above right: where you cross the road to
Nimitz Way Trail; gain entrance to Redwood
right: Conlon Trail. Regional Park. Total: 2.7
miles.
MacDonald Gate to Sky-

line Gate The trail doubles
as the Stream Trail, where
you hike along Redwood
Lomas Cantadas to Inspiration Get there GPS loca-
Creek, flanked by redwoods.
Point, Tilden Regional Park tion: Southern trail-
Total: 5 miles.
Once you top the ridge, you head: 17007 Redwood
Skyline Gate through descend nearly 900 feet with Road, Castro Valley;
Proctor Gate to Bort
Huckleberry Preserve to views across the foothills to the northern trailhead:
Meadow The trail-
Sibley Preserve The upper east. You emerge at famous 5755 McBryde Ave.,
head is next to the
end of this section gets little Inspiration Point. Total: 3 miles. Richmond. Parking fee
Willow Park Golf
traffic. The route passes may be charged at
Course. It starts with a
through upland habitat with Inspiration Point to Wildcat some trailheads. Dogs
steady climb to a
lots of songbirds, then rises Canyon Regional Park This permitted. Mountain
ridge and enters
nearly 500 feet into Huckle- section of trail starts out paved, bikes are restricted in
Anthony Chabot
berry. Total: 3 miles. famous and popular, and is some sections. East
Regional Park. You
heavily used for 4 miles. You then Bay Regional Park
continue past Sto- Sibley Preserve to Lomas break left, where the route turns District, 888-327-2757,
nebridge and into Cantadas, Tilden Regional to dirt. You cross through a gate www.ebparks.org (click
Grass Valley, gor- Park It feels like something and hike along San Pablo Ridge on Regional Parks and
geous in spring with of a phenomenon to see with spectacular views of the Trails).
blooming blue-eyed Sibley and its volcanic past,
grass, wild radish and bay to your left, below to San
and then walk over the top Pablo Reservoir on your right. You
poppies, and beyond of the Caldecott Tunnel. It’s
to Bort Meadow. are encircled by wildlands during
then a 600-foot climb to an 800-foot descent through
Total: 6.5 miles. Tilden. Total: 3.4 miles. Wildcat. Total: 7.2 miles.

Angel Island:
Make it your own
MARIN COUNTY — From Lookout Bench on the south edge of San
San Pablo Bayy
Angel Island, you can see the San Francisco waterfront to the San
S
Saan
a
Raf
n
Rafael
Ra
Rafa
R afae
afa
fa
ae
ae
ell
Golden Gate Bridge and take in miles of water, passing ships and
all the landmarks. For those familiar with Angel Island, one of Ric
Rich
R
Richmond
ich
ic
ich
ch
hmo
mo
mon
mond
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the best strategies is to search out the hidden beaches in coves or
to camp and climb to the top of the island’s peak, Mount Liver- Berk
B
Ber
Be
Berkeley
er
e
erk
r
rk
more, at night. For those on a first trip, biking the Perimeter Oakland
O
Oa
Oak
ak
ak
Pac
Road or hiking to the Livermore Summit are essentials. In the San
S n
Sa
ific O
Francisco
Francis
Fran
F an
ncis
is
sc
s co S.F.
process, you might imagine all those who have come before, a F
Bay
history that is as dramatic as the views. Ferryboats out of Tibu-
cean
10 MILES
ron leave daily for Angel Island. On weekends and in summer
months, you can board ferryboats out of the East Bay at Alame-
da Main Street, Oakland Jack London Square or the Vallejo ferry docks for the ride to the San
Francisco Ferry Building and transfer to the ferry that heads to Angel Island.
When you arrive Hike The peak of 788-foot Mount Access Visitors must be
Ferries dock in Livermore has one of the best able to board a ferryboat
Ayala Cove. The urban views anywhere. From the and then walk along a
cafe, bike rentals visitor center, walk along dock to reach the foot of
and other Perimeter Road a short distance Ayala Cove. Bicycles
concessionaire to the Sunset Trail. Turn left, hike permitted. No dogs.
services will be on inland and climb to Summit Ridge
Get there From Marin:
your left. It’s a short and then to the junction with the
Angel Island Tiburon
walk to the small North Ridge Trail. Take that final
Ferry, first-come,
visitor center at the push to the top. It’s a 4.5-mile
first-served, $15, cash or
foot of Ayala Cove, round trip. Bikes are prohibited.
checks only; see schedule
where a
Camp California State Parks at www.angelisland
map/brochure is
operates 10 walk-in campsites. On ferry.com. From San
available. A beach
the west side of the island, you get Francisco: Blue & Gold
rings the foot of
nearby views of the Golden Gate, Fleet, weekends only.
Ayala Cove, and a
and on the east side, pretty Depart from Pier 41 or
shaded picnic area
sunrises and short nighttime treks Ferry Building; $19.50
is just beyond.
(with a flashlight) to the round-trip; first-come,
Bike The best trip Livermore Summit. At night on first-served or online, see
for most is the top, the lights of the cities and the schedule at www.blue
5-mile ride on bridges ring you in a 360-degree andgoldfleet.com. East
Perimeter Road. panorama. Bay: Weekends only.
After an initial short From docks at Alameda
History A historical landmark,
climb, the route Main Street, Oakland Jack
Angel Island was a fishing and
undulates around London Square and
hunting site for native Miwok. In
the island, passing Vallejo, buy round-trip
1775, Commander Juan de Ayala
a series of lookouts, tickets to Pier 41 in San
guided a Spanish naval vessel into
along with short Francisco. From Pier 41 at
what is now called Ayala Cove.
cutoff spurs to Blue & Gold Fleet, buy
During the Civil War, it was an
historical sites. If separate round-trip
outpost for the North to guard
you’re bringing your tickets to Angel Island;
shipments of gold to help finance
ANGEL ISLAND own gear, hybrids prices vary; www.sanfran
the war. Ultimately, it became
STATE PARK and mountain bikes ciscobayferry.com. Angel
known as the Ellis Island of the
are the best fit for Island State Park,
Cyclists take in the view West, an immigration station for
the road surface, 415-435-1915; Ayala Cove
of the Richmond Bridge. people from 84 countries,
which is packed Kiosk Visitor Information,
including more than 1 million from
gravel. 415-435-5390, www.
China.
parks.ca.gov.

MOUNT TAMALPAIS
STATE PARK
The skyline from Trojan Point,
above; the steep road
down, right.

Mount Tamalpais: Trails

to the state’s best lookouts
MARIN COUNTY — Connect 10
0MMILES
ILE
ILE
ES
E S
one of the prettiest drives in San Pablo
Pab
the Bay Area to one of six San
Sa
S an
an
Bay
trailheads at Mount Rafael

Raf
Ra
Rafa
R afa
a
affa
fae
ell
Tamalpais. From Marin City at Richmond
Rich
R
Ric
Riich
ch
sea level, the drive ascends A biker makes his way down Mount Tamalpais State Park
through redwoods and Sausalito
Saus
Sau
Sa
aus
usa
us
saalit
lito
B
Ber
Berkeley
in Mill Valley, Calif., on Thursday, Dec. 13, 2018.
grasslands to one of the best
Pac
Oakland
Oa
Oak
O akk
lookouts in California — the
ific
Francisco
San Frannci
cisc
cis
cisc
sco
Mount Tam summit. You pass
O
S.F.
ce
n Bay
trailheads at Bootjack, Pantoll,
a
Rock Spring, Mountain

Theater and East Peak, with nearby Laurel Dell just a short
jog away on Mount Tam’s west flank. Mount Tamalpais, of
course, is the peak that towers over Marin County. The trip
ends at 2,571 feet at the Gardner Lookout at the East Peak.
From each side of the lookout, take in miles of beauty and
dozens of landmarks. To the west, the ocean stretches out
forever, often obscured by a sea of fog, always with great
sunsets. As you drive in, these are the trailheads you will
pass. Note: All trail miles listed here are one-way distances.
Bootjack A 1.8-mile hike to East Peak Take

the West Point Inn. Take the Summit Trail for 0.2
Matt Davis Trail 1.3 miles, mile, short but steep
turn left on Nora, 0.5 mile to with 330-foot climb,
inn. Walk-in campsites to lookout and one of
available at Bootjack. the ultimate views in
the Bay Area.
Pantoll A 1.5-mile walk into
Steep Ravine, where a East Peak, bike
redwood canopy and fern down From the park-
grottoes shelter Webb ing lot, ride down a
Creek, is one of the Bay short distance to
Area’s most pristine hikes in Railroad Grade on the
winter. You cross a series of left, then take Rail-
wood bridges en route to a road Grade 1.4 miles
miniature waterfall. Walk-in to West Point Inn.
campsites available at Stay on Railroad
Pantoll. Grade down the
Laurel Dell Walk Get there GPS location: East Peak Park-
mountain to the trail-
Rock Spring Cross the road down the fire ing Lot, E. Ridgecrest Blvd., Mill Valley. $8
head at the end of
on southwest side, then road 0.7 mile to per vehicle at Bootjack, Pantoll, East
West Blithedale out
take O’Rourke’s Bench Trail Laurel Dell picnic Peak. Parking free at Rock Spring, Moun-
of Mill Valley; a fa-
for 0.3 mile to, you guessed site, then turn tain Theater, Laurel Dell. Mount Tam Trail
mous 281-turn,
it, O’Rourke’s Bench for left on Cataract map, Tom Harrison Maps, www.tom
2,200-foot descent,
beautiful ocean views. Trail for a 1-mile harrisonmaps.com. Mount Tamalpais
one way with shuttle
descent into a State Park, 415-388-2070, www.parks.
Mountain Theater Walk car.
steep canyon to ca.gov; West Point Inn, www.westpoint
past Mountain Theater and see Cataract inn.com.
then continue on Rock Falls, a series of
Spring Trail for 1.4 miles to tiny waterfalls in
West Point Inn. a lush setting.

MOUNT TAMALPAIS
STATE PARK
Sunset lights up the
Marin County hills.
Mount Diablo: Rock City

to a landmark summit
CONTRA COSTA COUNTY — Big Vallejo
allejo
al
all
llejo
ejjo
jo Devil’s Elbow to Juniper Camp/Diablo
San Pablo
views, great hiking trails and moun- Bay
North Peak At the Overlook Mount Diablo
tain biking routes, sandstone mono- foot of the summit, State Park provides camp-
Walnut
Wa
Wal
Waln
aln
ln
nuut
u
liths at Rock City and campgrounds Creek
ree
eek
ee k
0.7 of a mile from the sites at Juniper and Live
that always seem to have open sites — first parking lot, you’ll Oak Campgrounds. Juniper
see a small signed is the first choice, perched
Mount Diablo is a king of outdoor Oakland
kla
kl and
an
nd Danville
D
Danv
Dan
Da
anv
an
nville
nv
ville
ll
trailhead on the east high on Diablo, only a 5-
places. The moment you hit the trail, San
Francisco side of the road. This minute walk from the Dia-
the sensation of freedom washes over
S.F. is Devil’s Elbow, the blo Overlook. Reserve
you like a rain after a dust storm. The Bay Pleasanton trailhead to the campsites at www.reserve
views span Diablo’s high crags and 10 MILES 3,557-foot North california.com.
canyons far below. To the east, you Peak. It’s a rock perch
can see across the San Joaquin Valley Rock City This is a complex
on the east side of
to the snow-covered Sierra crest. From the Juniper Camp parking mosaic of sandstone rock
the North Peak that
area and viewpoint, you can see west across the ridges of the East formations that you can
towers over the Sac-
hike past, climb or use to
Bay and Peninsula to the ocean. ramento-San Joaquin
create your own perch for a
River Delta and San
picnic. When you enter the
Joaquin Valley. The
park, get the map for the
trek includes one of
Trail Through Time. The No.
Diablo summit On the drive to the 3,849-foot summit, there are the steepest sections,
1 location is Sentinel Rock,
several turnouts with plunging views below to the Diablo Valley about 150 yards, of
where a rock staircase
and the Interstate 680 corridor. The visitor center sits right on top trail/road anywhere.
leads up the back side to
of Mount Diablo — in fact the summit actually pokes up through The hike starts out
where you top off the climb
the floor of the visitor center. Outside, stairs lead to a castle-like easy, and descends
with an easy scramble, with
perch with long-distance views. On clear afternoons, you can see 500 feet to Prospec-
cables set up like guardrails.
downtown Sacramento and across the San Joaquin Valley to the tors Gap. You then
Start at the Live Oak Camp-
Sierra crest with its bright white snow. Mount Hamilton, Mount turn right to North
ground.
Tamalpais and Mount St. Helena are among the landmarks. Peak and climb 600
feet in less than a Mitchell Canyon The best
Mary Bowerman Trail To the left of the visitor center is the trail-
mile to the crag- hike is an 8-mile loop with a
head for the Mary Bowerman Trail. This is a near-level arc around
spiked summit. 4- 1,600-foot climb on the
the summit with a series of views, crowned by Devil’s Pulpit and
mile round trip. way up, with creeks, wild-
beyond to the Livermore Valley. On clear days, you can see the
flowers and ultimately
high-rises of downtown Sacramento without binoculars.
views across Carquinez
Strait.

MOUNT DIABLO
STATE PARK
Views from the top of Rock
City. Left, Mount Diablo
looms above Walnut Creek.
Bike On road bikes, the 17-mile ride up is History According to an Get there GPS location: Summit Road,
a rite of passage. At the entry kiosk, account published in Mount Diablo State Park. $10 entrance.
rangers advise each park visitor to 1995, Mount Diablo Park brochure/map provided with park
please share the road and watch out for received its name in entrance fee. Detailed trail map, $7.50,
the others. Along the road up, signs are 1805 when a local tribe free with membership in Mount Diablo
posted over and over: “Share the road,” escaped from Spanish Interpretive Association, www.mdia.org.
“Watch downhill speed,” “Slow Down.” military into thick brush. No beer, wine or other alcohol of any
Cycling pullouts on the uphill route allow They named it Monte kind is permitted. No dogs permitted on
cars to pass. The biggest danger is for del Diablo which means trails. Mount Diablo State Park, record-
downhill cyclists who face the potential “thicket of the devil.” In ed information, 925-837-2525; Summit
of a head-on collision if they encounter a time, others then dis- Visitor Center, 925-837-6119; www.
fast uphill driver who crosses into the torted the word “Monte” parks.ca.gov.
oncoming lane on a curve when passing to make it Mount Diablo,
a slow, uphill cyclist. says the account.

GOLDEN GATE
BRIDGE
The view and entrance road
to Fort Point.

URBAN
ESCAPES
OUTDOORSURBAN ESCAPES
Indian Rock: A climbers’

mecca in the Berkeley hills
History In 1917,
the man consid-
ered “the father
of modern rock
climbing,” Dick
Leonard, devel-
oped his skills at
Indian Rock.
According to
several accounts,
environmentalist
David Brower
used the rock-
climbing knowl-
edge he learned
at Indian Rock to
develop training
manuals the
Army used for
surprise ap-
proaches against
Germany in
World War II.
Access The
parking area and
access to the
Indian Rock
Path, which
extends three
ALAMEDA COUNTY — A panoramic view of San San
n Pablo Bay
y blocks, is wheel-
San Martinez
Mart
Ma
Ma
art
rtine
rtine
inez
inez
ez
Francisco Bay, framed in the distance by the Golden Rafael
chair accessible.
Gate, awaits visitors at Indian Rock Park. It’s one of
Get there GPS
the best lookouts around, yet is known mainly by Richmond
ch
chmond
hmo
mon
mon
ond
ond
location: 950
Berkeley locals and a handful of rock climbers who Indian Rock Ave.,
Berkeley
Berk
Ber
Be
B erk
e
er
rrkel
kele
k
kel
ele
eley
el
elley
le
e
scale the face of Indian Rock in preparation for the big Berkeley. Parking
walls of Yosemite Valley. Those climbers have included Oakland
Oakl
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and
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d free. No rest-
Pac
the late Galen Rowell and present-day legend Hans Sann room, no off-
ific O
Florine, who went on to establish records and new Francisco S.F. street parking.
Bay
routes in Yosemite. Both were elected to the California
cean
10 MILES
City of Berkeley
Outdoors Hall of Fame. Another route, an easy walk parks, 510-981-
for most, provides a way for non-climbers to get the 6660, www.ci.
big view. Indian Rock Park is in the Berkeley hills, Adding to the trip Most visi- berkeley.ca.us
with views facing west to San Francisco Bay. tors walk up the rock stairs to (click and hold
get the view of the bay. Or they on “Services,”
take a seat and watch the and in the pull-
When you arrive This is a small city park that often climbers scale the wall. The down menu,
is overlooked by out-of-towners. The centerpiece is park also has a picnic area and click on Parks,
Indian Rock, which rises in a monolith above the hills small play area that makes it a Recreation and
around it. local getaway, where you can Waterfront).
go for a spur-of-the-moment
picnic, a short walk up the rock
and a view.

INDIAN ROCK PARK
Far left: Jonathan Gutierrez of
Berkeley. Left: Ryan Crochiert
climbs Indian Rock Traverse.

China Camp: Walk

through history
at bay’s shore
MARIN COUNTY — The sight of San Bayfront picnic As you Five-bridge view From the top of the
Pablo Bay from picnic sites perched on enter the park, get a bro- McNears Fire Trail, on clear days, you can
shoreline bluffs is reason enough to chure/map, on which you see the Bay Bridge, Richmond-San Rafael
make the trip to China Camp State will find picnic sites on Bridge, Carquinez Bridge, Benicia Bridge
Park. You can crown the day with the bluffs along North San and the tops of the Golden Gate Bridge.
hike to a lookout for a five-bridge view, Pedro Road. They include It’s a 2.5-mile loop with a 500-foot climb
launch a kayak and paddle along a Buckeye, Weber and China on the way up. Start at the ranger station.
Camp Point. Pick your Take the Shoreline Trail north to the Oak
marsh or take in the park’s history and
favorite, spread out the Ridge Trail. Turn left and then climb to a
landmark settlement. The park has also
map on a table, take in the junction with the McNears Fire Trail. Turn
become one of the most popular in Mar-
view and enjoy lunch while right and you emerge at a lookout.
in for mountain biking. China Camp is planning the rest of your
on the shore of San Pablo Bay near San trip.
Rafael.

CHINA CAMP STATE
PARK
A fisherman off Five Pines
Point in San Rafael. Left, the
remnants of the 19th century
Chinese shrimping village.
Kayak Launch your kayak Novato

Nova
Nov
N
No
ovat
ov
ova
atto
o History China Camp Walk-in Get there GPS loca-
at China Camp Beach San
n Vallejo
V Camp is named trail sites for tion: 730 N. San Pedro
Pablo
(there’s an adjacent dock). Bay
for the settlement tents, with hikes Road, San Rafael. $5
The wind is often light here San
Sa
San
an
of 500 Chinese, that range from parking. No dogs on
and the water flat. Paddle Rafael
Raf
Rafa
afa
fae
fae
faell mostly shrimpers. 50 to 300 yards, trails or in camp-
north along the Marin shore. Ri
Riic
c
ch
hm
hm
mon
mo
oon
Richmond The park main- are available at grounds. China Camp
You will pass Rat Rock en S.F.
tains many Back Ranch State Park, 415-456-
route to Jake’s Island, ad- Bay Berkeley
Be
Be photos, artifacts Meadows Camp- 0766, www.parks.
Pa
jacent to a saltwater marsh. and structures ground ($35 per ca.gov.

cif
Oakland
ic O
Shorebird numbers are San from the period, night). Reserve at

Francisco
cea
often good, water views 10 MILES extending back to www.reservecali

n
spectacular. Note: No kayak the late 1800s. fornia.com.

rentals on site.

Alcatraz Island:
Bay tours aren’t
just for tourists
SAN FRANCISCO — The first U.S. fort and lighthouse
Ric
R
Riic
ch
hmo
mon
Richmond
on the West Coast were built on Alcatraz. The island
also gained notoriety during the 18-month occupation Berkeley
Ber
Berk
B
Bee
erk
er
rk
rk
by the Indians of All Tribes starting in November 1969.
But most know Alcatraz as the site of the federal peni-
Oakland
Oa
O
Oak
ak
ak
tentiary that housed many of the nation’s most in-
famous criminals from 1934 to 1963. There’s nothing PacSan
S
Sa
Fra
Fran
Fra
an
nci
ciis
sco
Franciscoco
quite like sitting in a cell on Alcatraz, even for just a S.F.
ific O
minute. On one of my visits, I asked the guides to lock Bay

cean
the cell and leave, and in that moment, I imagined 10 MILES

being Al Capone. It’s a strange sensation to be con-
fined to a tiny cell where the walls were painted in two
tones of light green to create the illusion of a larger space. Alcatraz is just a short
ride out of Pier 33, yet only about 20 percent of the 1.3 million visitors to the
island each year are from the Bay Area.
On the Rock From Pier Garden surprise Alcatraz’s gardens are alive with species
33 it’s a quick but that thrive in harsh conditions. Planted in the 1930s by
dramatic 1.4-mile ferry the warden’s secretary, they survived four decades of
ride across the bay with neglect. In 2005, they were restored thanks to the Garden
views of the San Conservancy and Golden Gate National Parks
Francisco waterfront Conservancy in partnership with the National Park
and Golden Gate Bridge. Service. Take a self-guided or docent-led tour starting at
From the dock, hike up a 9:45 a.m. Fridays and Sundays.
hill to the main doors of
A “Star Wars” secret When an electronic switch is
the prison. Visitors can
thrown, all the cell doors slam shut with a whoosh and a
sit in an old cell, take in
bang. George Lucas spent a day recording the sound; it’s
the bay views and tour
what you hear when the door slams shut on Darth
the main cell block, the
Vader’s star cruiser.
dining hall, the library
(don’t miss the photos
of the thugs posted next Access Visitors must
to the barbershop). An be able to board a
audio tour explains the large ferryboat and
history and includes then walk up a paved
interesting anecdotes. walkway to reach the
You might sense the site of the prison. No
ghosts of the famous dogs.
inmates once jailed Get there Tours
there: Birdman (Robert depart from Pier 33
Stroud), Machine Gun Alcatraz Landing on
Kelly and Al Capone. The the Embarcadero.
Agave Trail is a short Tickets: $35, senior
walk to the island’s discounts; reserve at
southern tip for dramatic 415-981-7625 or
views across the bay to www.alcatraz
San Francisco and west cruises.com.
to the Golden Gate
Bridge.

ALCATRAZ ISLAND
At Alcatraz Island, left and below left,
Cellblock A, below center, was used
during the prison’s military era. Below
right, political slogans were left during
the Indian occupation of 1969.

ALCATRAZ ISLAND
Visitors walk past prison cells.
The island gets 1.3 million
visitors a year.
Marina Green
to Fort Point: Get to
know S.F.’s waterfront
SAN FRANCISCO — One way to beat vacation stress is to avoid it altogether. You can do
that when an international destination is in your backyard: the San Francisco waterfront
from the Marina Green to Fort Point along the Presidio, a former military post. The 1.5-
mile (one-way) segment of the Bay Trail provides a succession of views across San Fran-
cisco Bay to Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge. Walk your dog, bike, skate, run, picnic
or simply snap photos.
Marina Green From Gashouse Beach at Presidio

Cove, the Bay Trail runs along the From the St. Fran- Ric
Rich
Richmond
waterfront, past the harbor, then cis Yacht Club,

Berkeley
B
turns right toward the bay front- continue west on
age and along the St. Francis the Bay Trail and
Yacht Club. You can then continue you will arrive in Oakland
O
past the Golden Gate Yacht Club minutes at the San

S
Sa
Pac
to the mouth of the harbor and, at beach at the Presi- Fra

Fran
Fra
an
nci
cis
ciis
sc
s
Franciscoco
co
S.F. Torpedo Wharf Most locals
ific O
the entrance, the Wave Organ. dio. The beach Bay

When the tides and wind are just stretches west for call this the Fort Point Pier.
cean
right, best on high and incoming more than a mile. 5 MILES Visitors can walk out to the
tides, it creates sounds from the It’s great for dogs end to watch passing boats
movement of water into 25 plas- and, often in the and ships. Fishing is tide-
tic pipes set in concrete. If you afternoon, windsurfing. dependent for shiner perch,
hike from Marina Green to Fort which you then use for live
Crissy Field The Bay Trail borders bay beach bait for halibut. Rock crabs,
Point, this side trip adds about a
frontage to your right, the restored Crissy Field not Dungeness, work the
quarter mile to the trip.
marsh on the left, and then continues past bottom.
Crissy Field into the Presidio.

THE PRESIDIO
Johnny Michals and Tori Heu
walk from the Wave Organ.
left, Katrina Thomas
stretches at East Beach.
Fort Point At the end of the trail Get there GPS location: Marina and Good to know The largest parking
is Fort Point, a historical land- Scott Street, San Francisco. Parking, area is along the bay waterfront at
mark. During the Civil War, Fort access are free. A map/brochure is Marina Green, and just east at the
Point and its 126 cannons protect- available at the visitor center. Gold- Marina Green Triangle adjacent to
ed the entrance to the bay. The en Gate National Recreation Area, East Harbor/Gashouse Cove (mari-
giant brick building is set at the 415-561-4700, www.nps.gov/goga; na). Parking is also available just
foot of the Golden Gate Bridge. Fort Point National Historic Site, west of the St. Francis Yacht Club
From the top, look to the bridge 415-556-1693, www.nps.gov/fopo; and beyond to the west, along the
across to Marin and beyond to Crissy Field Center, 415-561-7690, frontage at the beach at the Presidio.
Sausalito, Angel Island and Al- www.parksconservancy.org. Another parking area is available
catraz. near Fort Point.

Tilden:
Inspiration
Point’s portal
to the wild
ALAMEDA COUNTY — Even a famous San Pablo Bayy Easy and short The primary trailhead is Nim-
spot can surprise you. Inspiration Point at Martinez
Mart
Ma
Ma
art
artine
rttine
iinez
in
nez
neez
ez itz Way, a paved byway marked with lanes
Tilden Regional Park, well known and Richmond
mon
m
moo
on
nd
nd
that separate traffic. Many will park at In-
popular, is such a place. A short walk spiration Point, walk 5 minutes to a bench
leads to a view of San Francisco Bay, and with a lookout, and stay just long enough to
that is as far as many get. But you can Berkeley
Berkeele
el
ele
le
eyy Orinda
Or
Orin
O
Ori
riin
nda
da take in the view west across Meadows Canyon
keep on, by bike or on foot, to remote and beyond to San Francisco Bay.
foothills with excellent hilltop lookouts or Oakland
Oakl
O
Oa
Oakla
Oak
a
aklk
klla
la
an
and
nd
nd
Bike and hike On a mountain bike, ride out on
San
descend on a trail into Wildcat Gorge. Francisco paved Nimitz Way, with pretty foothill views
Inspiration Point is on Wildcat Canyon S.F.
10 MILES and a glimpse of San Pablo Reservoir off to
Bay
Road in the Berkeley hills, part of the East your right. At 4.1 miles, the route turns to dirt
Bay Regional Park District. It is common and to your left continues through a gate. A
to arrive on weekends and find the parking area full. Don’t despair. series of hilltops rise along the route. Lay your
Often spaces open up quickly. bike down in the grass and hike up to a sum-
mit for a big-time 360. It’s a 10-mile round
trip.

TILDEN REGIONAL
PARK
The paved Nimitz Way Trail is
lined with eucaluptus, above
right. The parking area at
Inspiration Point, right, often
fills on weekends.
The view Along the trail, you Canyon loop hike At the Get there GPS location: In-
are surrounded by miles of paved entryway at the start of spiration Point, Wildcat Can-
wilderness-like foothills and Nimitz Way, look to the left for yon Road, Orinda. Parking,
views across San Pablo Bay to the trailhead for the Curran access free. Map/brochure is
Mount Tamalpais. Below you Trail. It leads about 200 yards available in a box at the trail-
to the west are San Francisco to a junction. Continue straight head; Tilden Regional Park,
Bay, San Francisco and the on the Curran Trail. This de- 888-327-2757, option 3, ext.
Golden Gate Bridge. To the scends for 0.6 mile to the 4562; www.ebparks.org.
north, you can often see the Wildcat Gorge Trail. Turn right
outline of Mount St. Helena. In and follow along Wildcat Creek
spring, the hills glow green and for a mile to a junction on the
pop with wildflowers. When I right with the Meadows Can-
hiked the 31-mile East Bay yon Trail. Turn right. This rises
Skyline National Trail, this was 500 feet over 1.5 miles back to
my favorite spot, and I keep the start. 3.1-mile loop.
coming back.

Coastal Trail:
Experience the
Golden Gate
COASTAL TRAIL
The Golden Gate Bridge on a
typical summer day near
Battery Godfrey. Right, sunset
on the Coastal Trail.

SAN FRANCISCO — For an easy The hike, Part 1 Start by Get there GPS
Riic
Ricc
Richmond
getaway, head to Battery Godfrey walking on the Coastal location: Lang-
and the San Francisco Coastal Trail toward the Golden don Court, San
Berkeley
Trail. Perched on a bluff west of Gate Bridge. It is a short Francisco. Park-
the Golden Gate Bridge, Battery distance to a spot called ing and access
Oakland Overlook. A bench is are free. Map/
Godfrey in the Presidio is a turn-
of-the-century military bunker S
Sa
San sited toward the bridge. brochure, PDF at
Paci
Fra
Fra
an
nci
ciis
sc
s
Franciscoco
co The trail extends a short www.nps.gov/
armed with three 12-inch guns that S.F.
S.F
fic O
distance to the toll pla- goga. Dogs are

could fire 1,000-pound shells 10 Ba
Bay
za, where you can walk permitted. Not
cean
miles. What’s left is the concrete 5 MILES under the road to the suited for bikes.
structure that supported the can- well-known designated Presidio Visitor
nons. There are concrete steps overlook near the south- Center, 415-561-
leading to a platform with a view of the Golden Gate and across ern foot of the bridge 4323, www.
to the Marin Headlands. Just beyond is a trailhead for the above Fort Point. nps.gov/prsf;
Coastal Trail, which runs along the bluff tops of the San Fran- Golden Gate
cisco Headlands from the Golden Gate Bridge to your right to The hike, Part 2 From
National Recre-
China Beach to your left. Battery Godfrey, turn left
ation Area,
on the Coastal Trail and
415-561-4700,
walk along Lincoln Bou-
www.nps.gov/
The view This one is a 10, worth the trip no matter where you levard to Battery Cham-
goga.
live. It’s often best when turbulent skies add drama to the berlain and Baker Beach,
setting. To your right is a magazine-cover-quality view of the and beyond to China
Golden Gate Bridge. From the Coastal Trail, the cliffs plunge Beach. The views of the
to the water and extend to the entrance of the bay, where entrance to the bay and
ships, fishing boats and sailboats pass. Directly across are the passing ships are won-
Marin Headlands, topped by Hawk Hill and tipped by Point derful.
Bonita and its lighthouse.

THE GOLDEN GATE
A bicycle-pedestrian bridge
connects the coastal trail and
the bridge.
Lake Chabot:
Boats, big fish
and bald eagles
ALAMEDA COUNTY —
Richmond
Your first glimpse of Lake Walnut
Creek
Chabot can catch you by
Berkeley
rke
rke
rkeley
ele
el
ley
le
leyy
surprise. There’s nothing
like the anticipation you
Oakland
Oakl
O
Oa
Oakla
Oak
akl
akla
ak
kland
kla
klla
and
an
nd
nd
feel when you see the San
emerald water set against Francisco
a sloping ridge peppered

San
an
with oaks. Chabot is a Francisco
cisco
Castro
Cas
Ca
C
Cast
ast
a strro
st
Valley
Vall
Va
Vall
ro
allley
y
great place to boat, fish, 5 MILES
Bay
ay
bike, hike and picnic. Its
315 acres are in a pocket in
the East Bay hills on the outskirts of Castro Valley. The
lake is shaped like a horseshoe, with little Live Oak
Island creating a scene out of a storybook. After Cha-
bot was created in the late 1800s, it was closed to the
public for 91 years, similar to the rules at lakes on the
San Francisco Peninsula and in Marin County. In the
1960s, legislation by a local assemblyman opened it to
boating, fishing, hiking, biking and picnicking. Lake
Chabot is now the centerpiece of a regional park, and
along with Los Vaqueros, Del Valle and San Pablo, is
one of the best lake-based destinations in the Bay
Area. Sighting the area’s bald eagles is a wild card.
Walk Near the Bike Near the marina, turn

marina, turn right left on the West Shore Trail.
on the East Shore This is a great, easy ride on
Trail. This is an a paved road up and down
easy, flat stroll short hills with sweeping
along the shore of views of the lake. It is 1.8
the lake that ex- miles to the dam (3.6-mile
tends 1.6 miles to round trip), an excellent ride
Honker Bay, a for children. You will pass
3.3-mile round Coot Landing and Alder
trip. You will pass Point, where you’ll have
Indian Cove and your best chance to see
Catfish Landing, bald eagles. Look across
Boat If you own a kayak or canoe, it is a short portage to the
then make the the lake, above Half Moon
marina, where you must have your boat declared mussel free
right turn at Rac- Bay. During spring, a mated
before you hand-launch. On the water, the experience is quiet
coon Point along pair of eagles has tended
and intimate. You can fish, bird-watch and have a picnic lunch.
Honker Bay. an active nest here.
Most choose to venture up one of the lake arms. You can head
There’s a restroom
past the island on your left and up the Honker Bay arm or straight
at the end of the
out of the marina, past the island on your right, beyond Half
cove at Honker
Moon Bay and into Bass Cove.
Bay.

LAKE CHABOT
REGIONAL PARK
Marco David, 8, left, and
Marietou Keita, 7 fish on the
dock at the lake on the
outskirts of Castro Valley.
Rentals Kayaks, canoes, pedal Fish During the cool months, trout Get there GPS location: 17600 Lake Chabot Road,
boats, rowboats, boats with fishing is good. In spring and early Castro Valley. $5 parking, $2 per dog; $2 to hand-
electric motors, deluxe electric summer, the big bass start to feed. launch kayaks, canoes (20 feet or less, short portage
boats and pontoon boats are The first dock by the marina and required from parking lot), plus $4 watercraft inspec-
available. Guided kayak tours Raccoon Point are good spots for tion. $5 daily fishing permit. Map/brochure free at
are offered. Look for discounts, trout. Rod-and-reel rentals, bait and park entrance; PDF at website; Lake Chabot Marina,
including weekday and senior, tackle are available at marina shop. 510-247-2526, Lake Chabot Regional Park, 888-327-
as well as package rates for The lake also has some of the big- 2757, option 3, ext. 4536, www.ebparks.org.
pontoon boats. gest and most elusive largemouth
bass in Northern California.

COASTAL
RETREATS
MARIN HEADLANDS
The sun sets in a blaze of orange off
the Marin County coast.

OUTDOORSCOASTAL RETREATS
Año Nuevo:
A walk to
view nature’s
mating game
SAN MATEO COUNTY — One of nature’s best
shows takes place on the southern San Mateo
County coast. In one encounter at Año Nuevo
State Park, spectators watched a female come
ashore and drive the
young males crazy.
Her blubber quiver- Half Palo Alto
AÑO NUEVO STATE PARK
ed as she squirmed Moon
Bay Sunnyvale
Sun
Sunn
S
Suunn
un
unn
nnyva
y va
val
va
alle
San
Jose
across the beach. Left, an elephant seal bull shares the beach with
She used a flipper to shorebirds. Far left, young males vie for dominance.
P
Pes
Pescadero
throw sand on her Los
Pac
coarse, gnarled skin. Gatos

ific
The males could not Boulder

B
Bo
Bou
ou
oul
o u
ullld
de
de
O
contain themselves.
ce
n C
Cr
Cre
Cree
Creek
re
ree
eek
eeek
a
In a mass onslaught, Tours Roughly 50,000 What you see Tours are
10 MILES Santaa Cruz
Cr
they chased her people take the tour at about 3 miles long. As you
almost 25 feet and peak season in winter, walk along roped-off routes
cornered her. Off to the side, a monster-size bull, hoping to see the ele- within good camera range,
nicknamed the Beach Master by the park rang- phant seals’ courtship some seals are motionless,
ers, arose to defend the female. This bull, 20 feet and birth rituals. From but some males are
and 5,000 pounds, raised his head and issued a Dec. 15 through March 31, constantly wriggling from
warning roar. A mosaic of deep scars marked his docents lead groups of up place to place, occasionally
neck, the result of dozens of battles. The upstarts to 20 people. Each tour is squaring off and fighting
experienced a sudden attitude adjustment. Off unique; as the elephant with each other. The
they went in defeat, vanquished without a single seals move, rangers ad- mainland can get crowded,
bite. just the routes. Groups though, so many of the
leave every 15 minutes. elephant seals take up
residence at nearby Año
Nuevo Island.

Timing Elephant Access A shorter History Año Nuevo is Spanish Get there GPS location: 1
seals live on the wheelchair-accessible route is for new year. For years, the New Years Creek Road,
main beach available. No mountain bikes. island, just offshore a Pescadero. Reserve tours
year-round, but the No dogs. mainland peninsula, has been at www.reservecalifornia.
arrival of migrants in off limits to the public. On your com, $8 per person (plus
Photography Bring a
large numbers, often visit, though, you can see the reservation fee for
200-millimeter (or longer)
500, starts in broken shells of abandoned groups), plus $10 parking
lens.
November. The buildings on the island where per vehicle. Año Nuevo
mating shenanigans Rules Don’t harass the wildlife. elephant seals now live. An old State Park,
start in December. Self-guided tours prohibited lighthouse, at risk of falling, 650-879-2025, www.
Many pups, weighing between Dec. 15 and March 31. was knocked over on its side parks.ca.gov.
about 75 pounds, No collecting abalone shells. so no animals would be injured
are born in if it collapsed on its own.
mid-January to early
February.

PILLAR POINT
HARBOR
Left, Andrea Pescetelli carries
his daughter Anamarie, 4.
Right, fisherman Jay Karpinski
loads a king salmon into Leo
Wu’s bag. Far right, a dinghy
at Pillar Point Beach.
Pillar Point Harbor: Fish, float,

ride, walk on the San Mateo Coast
SAN MATEO COUNTY — Time it right, and Pillar Coastal Trail Near the boat
Oakland
Point Harbor at Princeton in Half Moon Bay is the ramp, the bike route extends San
kind of place you fall in love with. For more than 10 south 6 miles to Half Moon Francisco
years, I lived a few minutes away in Moss Beach and Bay State Beach. This is routed Hayward
past Miramar, beyond past S.F.
El Grenada. It’s all there: kayaking, stand-up paddle- Bay
boarding and boating. Get on a party boat and go several spurs to state beaches,
whale watching or fish for salmon or rockfish. Hike and then eventually past open Fremont
grasslands en route to the San
S
Saan
n
the beach or the bluffs, ride the Coastal Trail or just Mate
Ma
Mat
M
Mateo
ate
ateo
eo
main southern trailhead. Bicy-
take in the views. It’s all within a 2-mile radius. Ha
Hal
Half
Half
allff Mo
Moon
M
Moo
oon
nBBa
Bay
a Palo Alto
cle rentals are available a short
distance from the state park, in 10 MILE
MILES
LE
ES
ES
Make it work On weekends, the key is to beat the Half Moon Bay.
traffic on Highway 1. Better yet, go on a weekday.
Fishing/whale watching
Then as you turn into the harbor area, look for the
Salmon in late spring, rockfish Catch of the day You can
radar station. It looks like a giant tennis ball atop
in summer and fall, and whale buy fish right off the com-
Pillar Point Head.
watching in winter make this a mercial fishing boats; find
North Beach/Pillar Point Headlands Just below top launch point for ocean out what they are selling at
Pillar Point Head, there’s a small parking lot on the adventures. If you own a boat 650-726-8724, ext. 3.
left. From there, a trail extends along a bluff perched capable of an ocean trip, the
above a beach and the waterfront of the harbor, boat ramp inside the second- Get there GPS location: 1
inside the rocky jetty. You walk to the north jetty and ary jetty, on the left as you Johnson Pier, Half Moon
then can turn right to Mavericks Beach. This extends enter the harbor, is one of the Bay. Parking free in most
out to the point, a great tide pool area during low best in Northern California. lots. Boat launch and park-
tides. You can also rock-hop around Pillar Point Head Queen of Hearts, 510-581- ing is $13. Daily marine
until you reach a cliff that plunges into cove that 2628, www.fishingboat.com; weather, 650-726-6070,
connects to Fitzgerald Marine Reserve. Half Moon Bay Sportfishing, ext. 2. Harbormaster, Pillar
650-728-3377, www.hmb Point Harbor, 650-726-
Kayak/SUP rentals Get fitted for a wet suit, and 4382, www.smharbor.com/
fishing.com; Huli Cat, 650-726-
then paddle around the harbor. In a rental kayak near pillarpoint.
2926, www.hulicat.com; New
the north jetty, I watched a sea otter swim right up to
Capt. Pete, 650-726-6224,
me. Half Moon Bay Kayak supplies all the gear and
www.newcaptainpete.com;
offers guided trips, 650-773-6101, www.hmbkayak.
Riptide Sportfishing, 650-728-
com.
8433, www.riptide.net.

OUTDOORS COASTAL RETREATS
Marin Headlands: Rodeo Beach

and a historic lighthouse
MARIN COUNTY —
Rodeo Beach along the
Marin Headlands pro-
vides a beautiful ocean-
front expanse in a wide
cove that backs up to
Rodeo Lagoon. At the
north end of the beach is
a Coastal Trail trailhead
that leads to Wolf Ridge
and 1,053-foot Hill 88 for
a 360-degree panorama
of the Marin Headlands,
Pacific Coast the ocean
and — to the northeast —
up the flank of Mount
Tamalpais. The best
drive in is on the Coastal
Route at the Marin Head-
lands, where you pass
Hawk Hill. You get a
view of the Gate Bridge
to San Francisco and
across the mouth of the
bay. As you drive west,
you top a hill for views
beyond to the Farallon Rodeo Beach A delightful Novato Point Bonita Light-
islands. You will pass the beach set in a half-moon cove, San Pablo house A short walk
Nike missile site en route it’s the kind of place where you Bay through a tunnel leads to
to Rodeo Lagoon and can take a seat and watch the small, white suspension
San
Sa
Sa Rafael
Rafa
afa
fa
aeell
parking for Rodeo Beach. waves without a care in the bridge that takes you to
world. The far end of the beach the Point Bonita Light-
is where night photographer house, built in 1855. It is
Pacif
Sau
Saus
S
Sausalito
a
auusalito
o
When you get Tony Rowell captured his fa- perched on a crag that
ic O
there There is a mous nighttime images of overlooks the entrance

c
San Francisco
Fran ncis
cis
ci
is
sco
scco
ea
large parking area bioluminescence, light emited to the bay.

n
S.F
S.F.
at the end of the by living organisms, in 2018. 10
0 MILES Bay
Tennessee Valley An
entrance road (on The cove is bordered by Ten-
easy walk or bike ride
the right) as you nessee Point to the north and
leads to Tennessee Cove.
arrive past Rodeo Bird Island to the south, each with showstopping lookouts
En route, trails break off
Lagoon. Parking is accessible by short hikes. Dogs are permitted, including off
into the headlands for
also available along leash if under voice command. The Marine Mammal Center
valley and ocean views.
Rodeo Lagoon on often releases rehabilitated animals here.
your left, and also Get there GPS location:
Hill 88 Loop A 5.5-mile loop, with a 1,000-foot climb on the
near Fort Cronkhite 11050 Mitchell Road, Mill
way up. The trailhead starts at the end of the gated service
(on your right) at Valley. Parking, access
road, the Coastal Trail, just past the foot of Rodeo Lagoon. It
large lots off Bun- free. Park map/brochure
climbs, steeply at times, to Wolf Ridge and a spur on the right
ker Road (on your at Visitor Centers, PDF at
to Hill 88. Turn right for 0.1 mile, where you reach a concrete
right) near the website. Marin Head-
bunker and a sweeping view. For a loop hike, return to Wolf
Marine Mammal lands Visitors Center,
Ridge, turn right and, in 1.3 miles at the Miwok Trail, turn right
Center, which res- near foot of Rodeo La-
again. That leads down to Gerbode Valley and back along
cues and rehabili- goon, 415-331-1540,
Rodeo Lagoon (and the road) to parking.
tates wildlife. www.nps.gov/goga.

MARIN HEADLANDS
A view of the Golden Gate Bridge and the
headlands from Sausalito.
Left, a great egret at Rodeo Lagoon.

MARIN HEADLANDS
The Point Bonita lighthouse,
built in 1855, perches on a
crag that overlooks the
entrance to the bay.
Pescadero:
Beach, reef
bluffs and marsh
PESCADERO BEACH
Above, a natural tunnel; above right, Horatio, the
pet goat; right, Pescadero Marsh.

San Mateo S.F. Fremont
Bay
SAN MATEO COUNTY — You get a twofer at Pescadero State Beach and the Palo
Pa
Pal
Palo
llo A
Alto
adjoining Pescadero State Natural Preserve: beaches, carved-out havens against Hal
Half
alff Moon
al on
San
Bay
y
the cliffs, tidal reefs, lagoons and marshes. I spent years in this region and ex- Sunn
Sun
Su
Sun
u
unn
nn
nyva
yv
y va
va
Sunnyvale Jose
plored the coastline and hills from Pescadero Creek to Pigeon Point Lighthouse.
Pacif
Often I ended up here to enjoy the marsh, stream, lagoon, beach and sea, all in Pescadero
Pesc
P
Pes
Pe
esc
escaadero
ader
one easy day. Pescadero State Beach and marsh are along Highway 1, 15 miles
ic O
Los
Gatos
south of Half Moon Bay. Four parking lots are available, three along Highway 1,
ce
an
another along Pescadero Road. Pick the right one for what you are looking for. 10 MILES
Boulder
Bou
Boul
Bo
oul
ou
oul
ul
C
Creek
Northern beach
From here, you
walk north along a
beachfront that
extends for a mile
along a series of
high bluffs.
Against those high
bluffs is a series of
sculpted hide-
aways, out of view
and ideal for pic-
nics with water
views.
Central beach/
marsh The central
beach parking lot
is just south of the
Pescadero Creek
Bridge. Trails lead
down to a small
beach fronted by a
tidal reef. To the
immediate north is
Pescadero La-
goon, which
breaks free and Get there GPS loca-
flows to the ocean tion: Pescadero State
when winter rains Beach, Highway 1,
arrive. You can Pescadero. $8 for
also reach the developed parking
marsh from this (along Highway 1) at
parking lot. To get Pescadero State
there, walk across Beach; parking and
the pedestrian access are free at
walkway on the Pescadero Marsh (off
Highway 1 bridge Pescadero Road). No
over Pescadero dogs are permitted
Creek, then walk on trails at the marsh
under the bridge or at state beach. No
to reach the fires, collecting,
marsh on the drones or fireworks.
eastern side of Restrooms are avail-
Southern beach Marsh The dirt lot along Pescadero able at the northern
Highway 1. The
After you drop to the Road provides access to the trailhead and southern parking
Sequoia Audubon
beachfront, you get for the walk along the Butano Creek lots for Pescadero
Trail then leads a
access to small estuary. You get a sweeping view State Beach. There is
short distance
beaches edged by across the marsh. This is an estuary no running water.
along the lagoon
reefs. If you venture fed by two streams, joined in a la- Pescadero State
to Pescadero
north, you can walk goon, with habitat that attracts both Beach, Pescadero
Creek. It is current-
to the central beach resident and migrant shorebirds. Marsh Natural Pre-
ly closed at about
area and venture to serve, both through
0.3 mile in be- Guided nature walks Free guided
Pescadero Lagoon, Half Moon Bay State
cause of erosion. walks in the marsh are available at 10
Highway 1 Bridge and Beach, 650-726-
a.m. the first Sunday and 1 p.m. the
the route under the 8819; www.parks.ca.
third Sunday of each month.
bridge to the marsh. gov.

Point Reyes: Unmatched beauty,

adventure at national seashore
MARIN COUNTY — In early morning light, the Napa Trailheads en route to lighthouse You will
Sono
So
S ono
ono
om
om
ma
Sonoma a
tufts of coastal clouds above Inverness Ridge at Petaluma
Pe
Pet
Peta
etalum
lumaa
pass cutoff roads or trailheads for Mount
Point Reyes look like pink cotton candy. As the Vision, Estero Trail, North Beach, Drakes
day evolves, the changes in light make the Beach and South Beach. Of these, the Este-
park’s landmarks look like murals. Like this San
Sa
Sa
an Pablo ro Trail is one of the best easy first hikes you
beauty, the scope of adventure is unmatched in Bay can take in the park.
San
S an Rafael
an Rafa
R
Ra
afa
ael
el
the Bay Area: miles of ocean; a coast with a Pierce Ranch You can often see tule elk
Pacific
dramatic mix of sand, rocks and cliff-top bluffs; Ocean from the parking lot and dozens more on the
grassland foothills loaded with wildlife and the San Francisco
hike to Tomales Point. On the drive in, you
best opportunity to see elk in California; old- 15 MILES
S.F. will pass trailheads for Abbotts Lagoon and
Bay
growth forests; ridge-top views; and one of the McClures Beach.
most popular lighthouses in America. Most Limantour Beach Limantour Beach is drop-
travelers begin the adventure at Point Reyes National Seashore at the Bear dead beautiful. The parking lot is bordered
Valley Visitor Center, then choose from a series of major destinations with by blooming iris in spring, and you can walk
trailheads. for miles along Limantour Spit. On your way
to the beach, you will pass cutoff roads or
trailheads for the Sky, Bayview, Point Reyes
Bear Valley Visitor Center Lighthouse From the visitor center, it Hostel, Laguna and Coast trails. Of these,
The park is big, more than is a 20-mile drive to the lighthouse my favorite is Sky Trail, where you can create
71,000 acres. Newcomers parking lot and staging area. The an ambitious loop hike with ocean views,
can stop in at the visitor historic Point Reyes Lighthouse has pass through old-growth forest on Inverness
center, get a map and ask been renovated and is a great — and Ridge and descend on the Woodward Trail
questions to match desti- popular — late-winter site for whale to Coast Camp and the beach.
nations with desires. Trail- watching. At the lighthouse, a left turn
heads here include Bear will take you to the trailhead for the Palomarin The Palomarin Trailhead north of
Valley Trail, where you can trail to the Chimney Rock Headlands, Bolinas is the launching point for the Coast
hike out to Arch Rock or where an easy hike on clear days pro- Trail to freshwater lakes and beyond to
turn right and head up to vides sensational views, and in late Wildcat Camp. The ambitious can hike on
the Sky Trail on the flank of March, a wildflower spectacle. During the beach for a head-on view of Alamere
Mount Wittenberg for a peak whale watching in winter, a shut- Falls as it sails over the brink and to the
panorama of Drakes Bay. tle is required from the Drakes Beach beach below.
turnoff to the lighthouse or headlands.

History The Coast
Miwok inhabited the
area after the Ice Age,
dating back more
than 5,000 years,
and more than 100
historic village sites
have been verified in
the park. Explorer Sir
Francis Drake was
said to have landed
here in 1579. After
many shipwrecks, the
Point Reyes Light-
house was estab-
lished in the late
1800s. Ranching and
farming have been
common for nearly
200 years, and when
the landscape be-
came Point Reyes
National Seashore in
1962, many of the
existing operations
were grandfathered
in. In a survey of the
California coast in
2010, the cleanest
beaches in the state
were at Point Reyes.
Access Visitor cen-
ters and some short
interpretive trails and
service roads are
wheelchair acces-
sible.
Get there GPS loca-
tion: 1 Bear Valley
Visitor Center Access
Road, Point Reyes
Station. Parking,
access, map/bro-
chure, free. No dogs.
No fires on beach.
Mountain bikes only
on designated roads
or trails. Reserve trail
camps at www.reser
vation.gov; reserve
lodging at www.ptrey
es.com. Bear Valley
Visitor Center, 415-
464-5100, www.nps.
gov/pore.
POINT REYES
The historic Point Reyes lighthouse,
above; two fawns above South
Beach, left.

POINT REYES
Sky Trail meets Woodward Valley Trail in the
deep forest on Inverness Ridge at Point Reyes
National Seashore in western Marin.
Stinson:
Bay Area
coast’s
No. 1 beach
MARIN COUNTY — Novato
From a bluff along San Pablo
Highway 1 in Marin, San
Saan
an
Bay
B
you can see why Raf

Ra
Rafa
R afa
a
afae
fa
fae
ae
ell
e
Rafael
Stinson Beach may
be the best of the
beaches along the Pacific Sausalito
Saus
Sau
S aus
au
Bay Area coast. Ocean
Three miles of arc- San Francisco
Fran
ncis
ciiis
c sco
sc
s co
ing beachfront along S.F.
10 MILES
Bolinas Bay pro- Bay
vides room to
spread out. A calm surf, at least most days in late
summer and early fall, make it an ideal place to
play tag with the gentle waves, stand-up paddle
board or swim. The views are gorgeous across the
sea to Bolinas and Duxbury Point. It’s common
for pelicans to glide past in squadrons and fly out
to sea, to see fishing boats up close and tankers
and freighters in the shipping lanes. A bonus at
Stinson Beach is a giant parking lot at its southern
end. That can solve the parking dilemma inevita-
ble at many weekend destinations, especially in
Marin.
Parking/bus route Jekyll-and-Hyde

On warm, clear week- affair Many days
ends, even this giant are quiet, beauti-
parking lot can fill ful and idyllic,
before noon, there where I’ve count-
are no overflow sites, ed 10 people in a
and legal spots in span of 3 miles.
town are all taken as Then there are the
well. Late starters clear, hot days
should call ahead for when Highway 1 in Hike north The beach leads north to Upton Beach To the north,
parking updates. The Marin County the mouth of Bolinas Lagoon, a Upton Beach is a county park
best option is to take turns into a 10- pretty spot with a light tidal surge to that is contiguous with Stinson
Marin Transit No. 61, mile traffic jam, swim, stand-up paddle board or fish Beach. The border is signed.
known as the Marin every parking spot for perch and striped bass when the Many activities banned at
Stagecoach. It runs is taken and thou- tide is right. If you instead venture Stinson, as a national park, are
from Marin City and sands of people south, you leave the crowds behind allowed at Upton. These in-
along the Panoramic arrive. Choose and arrive at a more secluded area clude beachcombing for shells
Highway to Stinson. your day wisely. backed by bluffs, edged to the south and pocket rocks and bringing a
by Rocky Point. dog on the beach.

STINSON BEACH
Plants along Highway 1 south of Stinson Beach.
Left, wildlife feeds in Bolinas Lagoon.
Swimming Rip currents and Sharks In late summer and fall, Get there GPS location: Stinson Beach Parking
undertows can make swim- salmon migrate just offshore from Lot, Stinson Beach. Parking, access are free.
ming dangerous. If you go in Stinson Beach en route to the San Brochure at visitor center. Recorded updates
the water, make sure to have a Francisco Bay. That brings in sea from ranger, 415-868-1922; Stinson Beach
flotation device, like a board, lions, which can attract great white Visitor Center, Golden Gate National Recreation
that is tethered to you to keep sharks. When there are shark sight- Area, 415-388-2596, www.nps.gov/goga/
you above the rips and un- ings, alerts are posted and well stbe.htm; Upton Beach, Marin County Parks,
dertows. publicized. www.marincountyparks.org.

STINSON BEACH
Dino Colombo, a 21-year resident,
draws flowers in the sand.
Tomales Bay:
Beaches, hikes
and kayaking
MARIN COUNTY —
So
Son
S
Sonoma
on
on
Once you reach Tomales Napa
Bay in West Marin, get Petaluma
Peta
Peta
e talu
lu
um
uma
ma
ma
off the road and get out
of your car and your day San Pablo
Bay
will turn spectacular in
San
S an
n Rafael
Raf
Rafa
Ra
R afa
a ael
el
minutes. No matter what
you love, you’ll probably Pacific
Ocean
find it here. On a clear
San Francisco
day, there are few better S.F.
15 MILES
places to kayak on flat Bay
water, find secluded

beaches or take in a landscape of water, foothills and
lookouts. You can also hike, view wildlife and camp.
This loop ventures first to Tomales Bay State Park,
the often-bypassed waterfront park on the western Wildlife watching
shore of the bay. Soak in the water view at Heart’s Often you can see
Desire Beach, and go for a short hike or launch a tule elk in the vicin-
kayak. Then loop around to the eastern shore of To- ity of the parking lot
males Bay, through Point Reyes Station, past Mar- at Pierce Ranch. A
shall and Blakes Landing. short walk to the
ridge provides a
panorama of Toma-
les Bay. From Pierce
Ranch, hike the
Secret coves A Smooth paddling From Tomales Point Trail.
series of fairly Inverness, you can rent a You’ll see game
hidden beaches, kayak and paddle in flat trails that you can
tucked away along wind-sheltered water. trace out to find the
15 miles of Tomales Paddle to the southern elk; the herd num-
Bay, includes end to a wetlands area bers over 500, not Pitch a tent A series of 20 boat-in
Chicken Ranch for sightings of shore- counting newborns. campgrounds, located at secluded
Beach (county birds and waterfowl. Bring binoculars and beaches along the northwest shore of
park), Heart’s Rentals are also avail- keep your distance. Tomales Bay, is run by Point Reyes Na-
Desire Beach, Peb- able out of Marshall, or tional Seashore; $20 per site; reserve at
Hike Johnstone 877-444-6777, www.recreation.gov.
ble Beach and launch your own out of
The trail runs (in
Shell Beach (To- Miller Boat Launch, from Get there GPS location: 1100 Pierce
part) along the
males Bay State where you can paddle an Point Road, Inverness. Free access at
shore to Pebble
Park), and a series hour across to the west- county park sites and Point Reyes Na-
Beach, then arcs in a
of secluded coves ern shore to find seclud- tional Seashore; $8 per vehicle at Toma-
horseshoe-shaped
on the northwest ed beaches and have a les Bay State Park. Marin County Parks,
route to Shell
side of the bay water view of the elk at 415-473-6387, www.marincountyparks.
Beach. Jepson Trail
(Point Reyes Na- Pierce Ranch. Note: org; Tomales Bay State Park, 415-669-
goes through the
tional Seashore) Access to the east side of 1140, www.parks.ca.gov; Point Reyes
ancient Bishop Pine
where you can land Hog Island in Tomales National Seashore, www.nps.gov/pore.
Forest. Indian Na-
a kayak. Bay is prohibited to pro- Kayaks/stand-up paddleboards: Blue
ture Trail, to Indian
tect harbor seals. Waters Kayaking, 415-669-2600, www.
Beach, is a short
interpretive trail to bwkayak.com.
wood tepees.

TOMALES BAY
Nick’s Cove cottages on Tomales Bay;
Heart’s Desire Beach, left; ranching has
a long history here, below right.
UVAS CANYON
COUNTY PARK
A 1-mile waterfall loop trail starts
with a rock staircase that leads
to a bridge over Swanson Creek.
INLAND
ADVENTURES
OUTDOORSINLAND ADVENTURES
Big Basin Redwoods:

Ancient trees and
backcountry waterfalls
SANTA CRUZ COUNTY — Camping All styles of
No matter what your age, a Half
Moon
oonn
Palo Alto camping are available: 31
SSan
trip to Big Basin Redwoods, Bay
ay Sun
Sunn
Su
S unn
u
un
nn
nnyva
yval
yv
y v
va
val
Sunnyvaleae
al JJose
Jo
o sites for tents or RVs up
California’s oldest state park, to 27 feet or trailers up to
can feel as if you’re pushing Pescadero
escad
ad
dero 24 feet (no hookups), 69
the restart button on life. Lo
Lo
os
Los
drive-in sites for tents
Walking amid the ancient only, 38 walk-in sites;
Pac
Gatos
Ga
G a
redwoods has a way of put- $35 per night. Reserve at
ific
Boulder
B
Bo
Bouou
oul
ou
ullld
de
der
err
www.reservecalifornia.
O
ting everything in perspec- C

Cre
Cree
Creek
ree
rre
eek
e
eeek
ce
n
com.
a
tive. In just a short walk, you 10

0 MILES SantaaCCruz
ruz
can see a series of colossal Trail camps There are
redwoods, including the 52 backpack-style hike-
Mother and Father of the Forest. in campsites, $15 per
person, reserve at 831-
338-8861. For details
about trail sites in Santa
Redwood Trail The loop is 0.6 mile, flat and takes Cruz Mountains, go to
about a half hour. The trailhead is just beyond the west www.parks.ca.gov/
side of the parking lot and is well marked. You pass ?page_id=26658 (trail-
old-growth redwoods en route to the Mother and Father camp page).
of the Forest. The Mother has a circumference of 70 feet Tent cabins There are
and is 280 feet tall (the top 50 feet snapped off in a 36 tent cabins (fully
storm a few years ago), and the Father is 250 feet tall. booked most Friday and
In addition, one tree has so many burls at its base that it Saturday nights), $85 to
looks like a science experiment gone wrong. $105 per night, depend-
Views The Meteor Trail starts along Opal Creek and ing on amenities, two-
then climbs 400 feet to Middle Ridge Fire Road and night minimum on week-
nearby to Ocean View Summit. ends. Located at Huckle-
berry Loop. Reserve at
Waterfalls The Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail runs from www.reservecalifornia.
headquarters 4.7 miles to 70-foot Berry Creek Falls, and com.
another mile up to Silver Falls, a 60-foot freefall where
the trail rises next to the brink, and to Golden Falls, Get there GPS location:
which looks like a water slide with clear water over 21600 Big Basin Way,
golden sandstone, and feeds into Silver Falls. Note: In Boulder Creek. $10 park-
big winters, fallen trees and erosion can close the direct ing, access. Big Basin
route to Berry Creek Falls; another route is available on Redwoods State Park,
the Sunset Trail. Another waterfall, Sempervirens Falls, 831-338-8860, www.
a narrow chute, is a short distance from the Huckleberry parks.ca.gov. Map/bro-
Loop and tent cabins. chure available at the
park visitor center and at
A personal note The brink of Silver Falls, where you can www.parks.ca.gov. Trail
reach out from the cable railing and touch the water as it map: Mountain Parks
flows past, and where you can turn to your right, take a Foundation, 831-335-
few steps and look up to the final chute of the Golden 3174, www.mountain
Cascade, is my favorite spot in the greater Bay Area. parks.org (click on Buy
Access Hikers, wheelchairs OK. No bikes, dogs or hors- Maps).
es.

BIG BASIN REDWOODS
STATE PARK
Hikers snap photos of the Mother of the
Forest, which is 280 feet tall and 70 feet
around.

Briones: Explore a wildland

in the Contra Costa hills
Val
Vall
Va
allejo
al ejjo
Vallejoo
Pabl
bllo
San Pablo
Bay
ay
mon
mo
m on
ond
nd
Richmond
Walnut
W alnut
ut
Lafa
L
Laafa
af
affa
ay
yett
yet
ye
e
ettte
ette
tttte
Lafayette
n
C
Creek
Oak
O
Oa
akl
ak
akla
kl and
an
nd
Oakland
San
sco
s
scco
Francisco
S.F. Pleasanton
Bay
10 MILES
CONTRA COSTA
COUNTY — Every trip
to Briones Regional
Park is unique, a vast
wildland with a net-
work of trails that pro-
vides options from
short walks to ambi-
tious treks, plus moun-
tain biking and horse-
back riding. It is
crowned by 1,483-foot
Briones Peak and its The trek My favorite
great views. In spring, hike at Briones is the
loop route past
the hills practically
Briones Peak. From
glow, alive with wild-
the Alhambra Creek
flowers. Briones is an staging area, begin
island wilderness, bor- on Alhambra Creek
dered to the north by Trail and turn right
Martinez and the High- on Spengler Trail to
way 4 corridor, on the Old Briones Road
east by Walnut Creek Trail. Turn left and
and Interstate 680, and hike a half mile to
on the south by Lafay- Briones Crest Trail.
ette and Highway 24. Turn left again and
The park spans 6,255 climb to Briones
acres that stretch west Peak in less than a
to Briones Reservoir, mile. To complete
and the wildlands ex- the loop, stay to the
tend beyond on East left for Table Top
Bay Municipal Utility Trail and then again The views From Briones Peak, you get a Mountain bikes
District land to San for Spengler Trail (it panorama of rolling foothills that extend Allowed on ranch
bends to the left at far beyond to Mount Diablo, the west roads, which
Pablo Reservoir. It is
several junctions), Delta and Suisun Bay. At the end of the make up most of
one of the best parks
then right on Diablo loop, on the Diablo View Trail, you get the park’s routes.
for hiking, wildflowers views to the southeast across the In-
View Trail 1.1 miles
and foothill views in terstate 680 corridor, past Shell Ridge
back to parking. It’s
the Bay Area. a 5.6-mile loop, and across the northwest slopes of
3-plus hours. Mount Diablo.

Briones Reservoir/hiking
No water contact, boats or
fishing are permitted at the
lake. Instead, venture out on
the Oursan Trail; you can go
for 5 minutes or 5 hours.
Combined with the Bear
Creek Trail, a 13.2-mile route
circles the lake. From the
Overlook Staging Area, you’ll
see the trailhead, then turn
left and head to the dam for
a photo. After you cross atop
the dam, the trail ventures to
remote watershed lands
north of the lake. It climbs
400 feet up a ridge for occa-
sional lake views, then even-
tually descends along the
north shore of the reservoir.
Waterfall Abrigo Falls has a
15-foot stream with a hol-
lowed-out plunge pool,
pretty after heavy rain. Park
at Bear Creek Staging Area,
pick up the Abrigo Valley
Trail. For the cutoff to the
falls, a map is essential.
Distance is 2 miles.
Dogs Pets must be leashed
(6-foot maximum) on the
Alhambra Creek Trail (from
parking south to the water
trough), Diablo View Trail
(between Alhambra Creek
Trail and Hidden Pond
Trail), Tavan Trail and Or-
chard Trail. In many areas,
dogs are allowed to be
off-leash if they are under
owner control (see rules on
website).
History The land is a histor-
ic grazing and ranching
property, which continues
to the present day, and was
purchased in 1909 as a
watershed. The park was
ultimately established in
1967.
Get there GPS location:
2537 Reliez Valley Road,
Martinez. $3 access, park-
ing; $2 per dog; $3 for horse
trailers. Map/brochure
BRIONES REGIONAL PARK available at park entrance;
Lupine overlooking Sindicich Lagoon. PDF at website. Briones
The high ridges, below left, are great Regional Park, 888-327-
for hiking, left. 2757, option 3, ext. 4508;
East Bay Regional Park
District, www.ebparks.org.

DEL VALLE
Boats are for hire on Lake Del Valle, which is
surrounded by rolling hills, right.
Del Valle: From lake to

wilderness, park has it all
ALAMEDA COUNTY — Among the Bay Area’s 275 Fish We’ve had some of our
recreation destinations, Del Valle is the only park best days anchored at the
upper end of the lake on the Walnut Creek
that provides top-shelf fishing, boating, moun-
tain biking, hiking, camping, backpacking, wild- edge of the underwater chan- Oakland
flowers and wildlife. The park spans 5,000 acres nel, rigging with two hooks with San
south of Livermore. The centerpiece is its gor- Power Nuggets and a night Francisco
Livermore
ve
erm
rm
mor
moorre
o
crawler for bait. For the big S.F. Bay
geous lake, marina and campgrounds. Once
ones, we have trolled 15 to 20
you’re afloat, miles of lake, coves and quiet water
feet deep with a gold-black
come into focus. Bald eagles sometimes fly in to Palo Alt
Alto
A
Al
lto
lt
lto
to
jointed Rapala along Swallow
nab a trout. 15 MILES
Bay and approached the dam San
Sa
San Jose
Jose
Jos
Jo
os
ose
se
on the right. A $5 daily fishing
permit is required.
Boat The lake is 5 miles long with 16 miles of
shoreline and a 10-mph speed limit. Fees are Mountain bike From the boat Hike From near the Lichen
charged for launching, based on the type of ramp parking lot, ride north on Bark Picnic Area, take the
boat, and all boats are required to be inspect- the East Shore Trail/Road for Ohlone Wilderness Trail to
ed for mussels before launching. Launch fees 1.8 miles to Venados Group Rocky Ridge (2,426 feet). You
are $5 for trailered boats and $3 for car-top Camp (on left). Turn right on get a towering view over the
(such as a kayak) or inflatables. Mussel in- Swallow Bay Trail and make the reservoir and across to Cedar
spections cost $7 for trailered boats, $4 for rhythmic climb up above Bad- Mountain, and then west to-
car-top boats. Boats must be clean and dry ger Cove, then drop down to ward Wauhab Ridge and Rose
before launching; 10-mph speed limit, no per- Swallow Bay. You can continue Peak, with good blooms of
sonal watercraft. Boat rentals available for north to Heron Bay, with several goldfields on top in spring. It’s
motorboats, rowboats, canoes and pedal short climbs and drops, for a a 4.4-mile round trip, with a
boats at marina. 10-mile round trip. 1,700-foot climb.

Camp/cabins Choose open campsites Backpacking Ohlone Wil-
Get there GPS location: 7000 Del Valle
within walking range of the lake, or more derness Trail runs 28 miles
Road, Livermore. Fees: $6 per vehicle, $2
private sites amid trees. Sites for tents or from Del Valle through
per dog, $14 per boat or trailered RV;
self-contained RVs cost $25 per night; RV Sunol Regional Wilderness
leashed dogs permitted. A map/brochure
sites with hookups cost $45 per night. Rest- past Mission Peak to Oh-
is provided at entry kiosk; PDF at
room with showers are available. No genera- lone College. Reserve trail
www.ebparks.org. Del Valle Regional
tors permitted. Quiet hours are 10 p.m.-7 campsites in Ohlone Wil-
Park, 888-327-2757, option 3, ext. 4524,
a.m. The park’s model cabins can be rented derness at 888-327-2757;
www.ebparks.org; Del Valle Marina, 925-
for $100 per night, two-night minimum. $5 per camper 16 and over,
449-5201, Rocky Mountain Recreation,
Bring sleeping bag, cooler with food and free for those 15 and under
www.rockymountainrec.com; Rocky
drink and other camping gear. Reserve at with adult; $8 service fee
Ridge Visitor Center, 510-544-3146.
www.reserveamerica.com. per site reserved.

Henry Cowell:
Redwoods, river
and a railroad
SANTA CRUZ COUNTY — Palo Alto Walk From the Nature Camp Forested campsites are
Henry Cowell Redwoods Center, the nearby Red- located on campground loops
Sunnyvale
has a 65-year history as a wood Grove Trail Loop is at an entrance apart from the
San
beloved state park for JJose
ose
os
osee
flat, easy and dramatic. main park entrance. In summer,
Pescadero
s
scadero they attract out-of-state visitors
hiking, mountain biking, Hike From the Redwood
Lo
Los
Los
os touring Highway 1. In the shoul-
camping, swimming and Gatos
Gato
Gat
G attos Grove Trail, you can
Paci
fishing. Redwoods age Boulder

Bou
Boul
B oul
oulder
ul
uldde
deer der and offseason, you can
extend the walk by
fic
well, you’ll find. This trip Creek

C
Cree
Cre
Cr
rree
re
ee
e ek often have the campground
linking a mosaic of trails
O
largely to yourself. $35. Reserve

ce
starts with a scenic drive, into a 4-mile loop hike,

an
at www.reservecalifornia.com.
either through the red- 15 MILES
LES
Santa
taa Cr
Cruz
C
finishing with a 550-
woods of the Santa Cruz Monterey Bay foot climb to the Obser- Fish In late December through
Mountains or on Highway vation Deck at an eleva- January, when stream flows are
1 down the coast along the Pacific Ocean. At Henry tion of 805 feet. sufficient to allow passage of
Cowell Redwoods State Park, there’s a gorgeous walk Mountain bike Cycling
steelhead from ocean to lagoon
amid the trees near the San Lorenzo River, hiking up and upstream, fishing is permit-
is permitted on Pipeline,
to a viewing platform or biking a network of fire ted on Wednesdays and week-
Rincon, Ridge and Pow-
roads, and a surprise swimming hole. During the holi- ends on the San Lorenzo River.
der Mill, which are fire
days, you can finish the day at one of the choose-and- Check for closures and special
roads. Helmets are
cut Christmas tree farms or take a ride on the adjacent rules from the Department of
required for those under
Fish and Wildlife. 707-944-
Roaring Camp Railroad. The park is near Felton, about 18, advised for all.
5500, www.wildlife.ca.gov.
15 miles inland from Santa Cruz.

Swim A swimming hole
called the Garden of
Eden is off the Ox Fire
Road. To reach it re-
quires a three-quarter-
mile walk with a 200-
foot descent. No diving,
alcohol, glass contain-
ers or dogs permitted.
Dogs Allowed in paved
areas, the picnic area,
Pipeline Road, Graham
Hill Trail and Meadow
Trail. They are not al-
lowed on other trails or
fire roads.
Roaring Camp Rail-
road Located adjacent
to the Visitor Center, a
100-yard walk from
parking. Two trains
available, the Redwood
Forest Steam Train
($29) and the Santa
Cruz Beach Train ($31),
round trip, plus parking.
831-335-4484,
www.roaringcamp.com.
Motorcycles From Sky
Londa, take Highway
35/Skyline for 14 miles
to Highway 9. Turn right
on Highway 9 and drive
18 miles to Felton, then
continue a half mile to
North Big Trees Park
Road. Turn left to park.
Get there GPS location:
For day-use visits, 101 N.
Big Trees Park Road,
Felton; for camping,
2591 Graham Hill Road,
Scotts Valley. $10 park-
HENRY COWELL ing; map/brochure, PDF
REDWOODS at website. Henry Cow-
ell Redwoods State
Hikers enter the park.
Roaring Camp Park, Santa Cruz Coun-
Railroad, left. Inset, a ty, 831-335-4598;
cross section of one of www.parks.gov; Nature
the oldest known
coast redwood trees. Center, 831-335-7077;
campground kiosk,
831-438-2396; Moun-
tain Parks Foundation,
831-335-3173, www.
mountainparks.org.

Pescadero Creek: Gateway

to Peninsula wildlands
SAN MATEO COUNTY — Pescadero Road provides entry San Mateo S.F.
Fish Every winter through early
Fremont
into some of the Bay Area’s deepest forests and most Bay spring, steelhead migrate from the
extensive wildlands. The heart of it is Pescadero Creek ocean up the creek to spawn in the
Palo
Pa
Pal
Palo
llo A
Alto
County Park with its redwoods and watersheds. With Half
Hal
alf
lf Moon
lf on vicinity of Pescadero Creek County
Bayy SSan
adjoining Memorial, Heritage Grove and Sam McDonald JJose
Park and Portola Redwoods State
county parks, the complex encompasses 8,020 acres. Park. In summer and fall, the “little
Pacific O
Adjacent Portola Redwoods State Park has 2,800 acres, trout” you might see are actually
Pescadero
Pe
Pesc
Pes
Pes
essc
cader
a o steelhead smolts. Fishing for them
and 18,000-acre Big Basin Redwoods State Park can be Lo
L
Los
o
is illegal. When rain raises the creek
accessed by a backcountry trail. The sum is nearly 30,000
ce
Ga
G
Gatos
a
an
and blasts a hole in the sandbar at

acres of contiguous wildlands, most of it redwoods, that Boulder
Bou
B
Boul
Booul
ou
o u
ulld
der
deer
er
10
0 MILES Creek the lagoon at the Highway 1 bridge,
is accessible to the public. From San Francisco, the pre- the juvenile steelhead will migrate
ferred route is along Highway 1 for ocean views; start to the sea.
early to avoid traffic. At Pescadero Road, head inland through coastal grasslands,
past Pescadero and into the redwoods at Loma Mar. The road becomes slow, twisty Get there GPS location: 9500
and narrow as you enter the heart of the forest. From the East Bay and Peninsula, Pescadero Creek Road, Loma Mar.
take Highway 84 to La Honda and then turn left on Pescadero Road to the Redwood $6 at developed parking at Me-
Triangle. morial, Sam McDonald; free at
several spots in park complex. For
Old Haul Road Trailhead, rangers
suggest parking at the gate on the
Mountain bike Wurr Road leads Hike For those on foot, trails lead into
left-hand side of Wurr Road (do
into Pescadero Creek County Park the adjacent Pescadero Creek County
not block road), no fee required.
and to the trailhead for the Old Park and to a matrix of trails and roads.
Trail map, $6, available at ranger
Haul Road. This is an excellent Pescadero Creek and its corridor are
station at Memorial County Park.
mountain bike ride on a gravel stunning. A cutoff leads up to the remote
Memorial and Pescadero Creek
service road. It extends 5 miles one Butano Ridge Fire Road and a little-
county parks, 650-879-0238; San
way along Pescadero Creek, with a known 1,727-foot lookout and ocean
Mateo County Parks Department,
graded 500-foot elevation gain view.
650-363-4020, https://parks.smc
(OK for children) into Portola Red-
gov.org.
woods State Park.

PESCADERO CREEK
Mushrooms fruit on a tree stump in Heritage
Grove at Pescadero Creek Park complex,
which contains some of the largest
redwoods, left, in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

SAMUEL P. TAYLOR
STATE PARK
Redwoods along the Pioneer
Tree Trail; right, Joel Talevi
and Molly Bradshaw warm up
at their campfire.
Samuel P. Taylor: Woods,

water and a few surprises
MARIN COUNTY — From a small airplane, you could
fly from San Rafael to Fairfax to Bolinas, and see the
sharpest interfaces from urban to rural in the Bay
Area. It’s stunning how the landscape transforms
within a mile or two. From your car, you can drive
through this same portal. You can leave the city life
behind at Fairfax for open foothills and then enter into
creekside redwoods at Samuel P. Taylor State Park in
western Marin County. With it, you get an array of
recreational activities: trailheads for easy walks, a hike
to a view, bike rides, a swimming hole. A family-style
campground for tents and self-contained RVs sells out
most summer days.
Redwood walk The Pioneer Tree Trail starts at the

Redwood Grove Picnic Area and runs for 2 miles
amid the park’s old-growth redwood trees with a
400-foot climb in and out of Wildcat Canyon and
then a loop back along Lagunitas Creek.
Barnabe Peak To reach 1,466-foot Barnabe Peak
(on the north side of Sir Francis Drake), you need to
connect to the Barnabe Fire Road, a 1,300-foot
climb, steep at times. At the summit is a former fire
lookout with a view across the foothills and to the Camp Maximum-length RVs,
Marin coast. Get a state park map/brochure and San Pablo 27-foot trailers, 31-foot motor
turn it into a 6-mile loop. Note: The preferred route Bay homes. Some small cabins are
out of Devil’s Gulch on Bill’s Trail is closed from also available, and also are
Sa
San
S a Rafael
Raf
Rafa
afa
fa
ae
ell booked through most of the
winter storm damage, with repair dates delayed Richmond
because of the discovery of spotted owls in the summer. Reserve at
area. www.reservecalifornia.com.
Sausalito
Pacific Dogs OK on paved areas,
Mountain bike Take the Cross-Marin Trail for 3 Ocean
miles along Lagunitas Creek, great for kids or as a San Francisco picnic area, campground and
launch point for mountain bikers. This is a former 10 MILES
S.F. Cross-Marin Trail.
Bay
railroad line, so it’s nearly flat. The more ambitious Access The campground,
can link west out of the park to the Jewell Trail, restrooms and main park area
where the climbs start, and into the Golden Gate are wheelchair accessible.
National Recreation Area. You can connect to Boli- Mountain bikes are permitted
nas Ridge and a network of roads/trails. You can For the future Out of on the Cross-Marin Trail, Bay
also ride east and link to the Inkwells Bridge. Devil’s Gulch, Bill’s Trail will Ridge Trail and can connect
eventually be reopened to out of the park to the Jewell
Swimming hole The Inkwells, a series of pools on
Barnabe Peak with its Trail.
Lagunitas Creek, provide a swimming hole on hot
cutoff spur to Stairstep
days. They are just east of the park (near Shafter Get there GPS location: 8889
Falls. The trail was closed
Bridge on Sir Francis Drake). From the park, take Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Lagun-
by a slide, and repairs have
the Cross-Marin Trail east along the creek to the itas. $8 per vehicle at main
been restricted because of
Inkwells Bridge, a bridge for hikers and bikers. Near- entrance station. Map/bro-
a spotted owl nest identi-
by is a short scramble down to the swimming hole chure included with entry fee.
fied in the area, where
(do not jump or dive in). In winter, you can often see Samuel P. Taylor State Park,
crews are prohibited from
coho salmon here, as well as at the nearby Leo 415-488-9897,
entering the area most of
Cronin Fish Viewing Area and Shafter Bridge. www.parks.ca.gov.
the year.

SAMUEL P. TAYLOR
STATE PARK
During winter, coho salmon
spawn in Lagunitas Creek.
Sunol: Crags, fossils

and Little Yosemite
ALAMEDA COUNTY — In late winter and

spring, rain saturates the hills and flushes
water through the aquifers and into the
headwaters of Alameda Creek. It turns a
dry, rocky gorge into a torrent of miniature
waterfalls.
This sparks Little Yosemite The trailhead is not
Little Yosem- Walnut Creek near the first parking area, picnic areas
ite to life in and visitor center, but a short distance
Oakland
kla
kl
klan
and
and
n d
the Sunol San
beyond to the east. The road stops
Regional Francisco Live
Live
Li
Livermore
vermmo
m orre
o near a restroom with a turnaround.
Wilderness. S.F. Bay Just beyond is the trailhead, a gated
The entrance ranch-style road that starts where you
Fremont
mont
ont
onnt
to Sunol- cross a bridge over Alameda Creek.
Ohlone Wil- Milpitas
Mil
Milp
Mi
M ilp
lp
pitas
tas
as
a From the trailhead, it takes an easy
derness is walk of only 0.9 of a mile on a ranch
15 MILES San
Sa
Sa ann Jo
Jose
Jos
Jose
ose
osse
road to reach it — a 1.8-mile round trip.
about 6 miles
After you cross the bridge, the trail
from In-
climbs gently, with the creek to your
terstate 680 near Sunol. It’s a gateway for a
right. The trail climbs a short hill,
wilderness that spans 30 miles east to Del where you get a view ahead of the
Use your imagination It takes
Valle Regional Park (south of Livermore) gorge. It takes about a half hour for
an imaginative eye to think this
and 8 miles west to Mission Peak (near looks like Yosemite, but on the
most hikers to reach the cutoff on the
Fremont). It’s one of the best parks in the left, there is a sandstone es-
right to Little Yosemite and its minia-
Bay Area for hiking, biking, horseback carpment that could resemble
ture procession of waterfalls. From a
riding, wildlife watching and camping. a miniature El Capitan, and
bluff-top perch, you can get a fair
Abundant populations of ground squirrels below, a small spire that looks
glimpse of the gorge, and many don’t
somewhat like Cathedral Rock
give rise to some of the highest numbers of get any closer. It’s a short scramble,
or the Lost Arrow Spire. Be-
golden eagles, red-tailed hawks, prairie slippery at times on wet clay and
yond is an eroded wall, near
falcons and peregrine falcons anywhere. In sandstone, down to the water’s edge.
vertical, that adds to the can-
addition, there are high numbers of deer, A larger boulder is set perfectly along-
yon look.
and the predators that eat them, including side a pool, just below the highest fall,
mountain lions, bobcats and coyotes. a small sheetlike fall.

SUNOL REGIONAL
WILDERNESS
Joseph Merkel and Susie
Cohen hike the McCorkle
Trail. Lower right: A ground
squirrel. Below: Little
Yosemite.
Backcountry A series of sand- Wilderness Get there 1895 Gea-

stone crags, Flag Hill, Cerro Este camping ry Road, Sunol. $5
and others, rises from the ridges. Wilderness per vehicle, $2 for
The crags provide towering views permit and a dogs. Map/brochure:
over the valley below and the camping Free in box at trail-
Alameda Creek watershed. On the reservation head. Sunol Regional
crags, if you look closely, you can required. Wilderness, 510-544-
see fossilized shells that tell a Reserve at 3249 or 888-327-
story of when these mountain- 888-327-2757, 2757, option 3, ext.
tops were once at the bottom of option 2. 4559; East Bay Re-
the sea. From Little Yosemite, the gional Park District,
trip can be expanded to these www.ebparks.org.
more distant landscapes.

Los Vaqueros:
Haven for fish,
wildlife, adventure
CONTRA COSTA COUNTY — From the shore of Two access points There are
Los Vaqueros Reservoir, you can take in what is Antioch
A
Ant
Anti
nt och
nti
n och h
two ways to get into Los Va-
emerging as the most vibrant fish and wildlife Walnut queros: at South Gate (out of
Creek
paradise in the western United States. This is by Livermore), which leads to the
far the biggest lake in the East Bay and, accord- marina, the choice for those
Danville
Da
Danv
D
Dan
an
a
anv
anville
nville
llle
lle who fish, want to rent a boat
ing to scientists with the Contra Costa Water Oakland
District, supports striped bass, trout, large- or enjoy easy shoreline walks;
Liv
Live
Livermore
ver
ve
erm
rmore
rmor
rrmo
m
mo
mor
or
oe and at North Gate (out of
mouth bass, catfish and bluegill. A 20,000-acre S.F. Pleasanton
nton
nton
o n
Brentwood), which leads to a
watershed surrounds the reservoir, in remote Bay
visitors center near the dam,
Contra Costa County. It’s in the Diablo Range, Fremont 10 MILES the choice for those who want
roughly between Livermore and Brentwood. to hike for ridgetop views or
The landscape encompasses miles of oak wood- mountain bike amid a matrix
lands, hills and ravines, and is contiguous to parklands and greenbelt. Bob- of dirt roads.
cats and raptors thrive on a robust ground squirrel population. Spend a day
fishing, boating, hiking, mountain biking, watching wildlife. Bring a camera
— there are plenty of opportunities for photography.

LOS VAQUEROS RESERVOIR
Looking out from the dam near Brentwood
at the biggest lake in the East Bay.
Marina/eagle sightings Fish For trout, the best Hike The best short hike is Get there GPS location: For
For the best first visit, go to spots are often South out of North Gate, with the South Gate/marina out of
the marina and rent a boat. Cove or Oak Point, using trailhead near the John Muir Livermore: 9990 Los Vaqueros
The electric motors look like bait. Trout stocks are Interpretive Center. Take Road, Byron. For North Gate/
miniature marine outdrives high. In the fall, you have the Crest Trail up to the visitor center out of Brent-
and are stronger than many the chance to catch ridge. You will emerge on wood: 19 Walnut Blvd., Brent-
expect. Explore the lake and scads of small striped the Vista Grande Trail. Turn wood. $6 per vehicle (dis-
its coves and get a view bass. Troll until you get a left and walk toward the counts for seniors, county
across the hills. Bring binoc- bite, then stop and cast dam. It’s easy to turn this residents). Daily fishing permit:
ulars to see eagles, hawks to the school. Before a into a 2.6-mile loop. What a $5 per day, which pays for
and falcons. The best spot trip, make sure to get the view from the ridge: across trout stocks. No private wa-
is often in the hills and oaks latest report, including the lake, and to the north, tercraft, even kayaks, permit-
above the West Fork of wind conditions, from up to Mount Diablo. At the ted. No dogs. Los Vaqueros
Kellogg Creek. In winter, the marina. At times, ridge, stop and take in the Marina, 925-371-2628; hiking
trails are often closed to most often in the spring, scene below. At your feet is questions, 925-688-8175, free
keep hikers well clear of boats can be put on a a vista of water and land trail guide on website; water-
active golden eagle nests. wind hold. like none other. shed information, www.cc
water.com/losvaqueros.

Uvas Canyon: Campsites,

trails and suprise waterfalls
SANTA CLARA COUNTY — The trip to Uvas Canyon
County Park in the foothills west of Morgan Hill
brings with it an easy walk with a series of small, wa-
terfalls, a good loop hike and a campground with a
guarantee that you won’t have to deal with parties.
Swanson Creek is the heartbeat of the park. It runs
down a long canyon, with four small waterfalls that
range from torrents in winter and spring to wisps in
summer and fall. Uvas Reservoir, about 15 minutes
away, provides shoreline bass fishing.
Winter, spring weekends Parking reservations are

required for weekend day use when the waterfalls
are at their peak, from late winter through spring:
408-355-2201 or www.gooutsideandplay.org. No
reservations needed on weekedays.
Walk/hike After parking, walk up the hill and past
the restroom to the trailhead. You’ll see a pretty rock
staircase that leads to a bridge overlooking a cas-
cade, little Granuja Falls. The trail then climbs for
0.35 of a mile to a spur for Black Rock Falls. Up the
hill on the main trail, another spur leads to little
Basin Falls. Beyond that is Upper Falls, about a 50-
footer, which is pretty even when dry weather reduc-
es it to a thin stream of silver. It’s 1.8 miles out and
back, and can be extended to a 3.6-mile loop hike on
Alec Canyon Trail.
Camp Most sites are set in shaded oak woodlands.
There are 25 sites for tents or small, self-contained
RVs, with drinking water and restrooms with flush
toilets and showers; $34 per night. Reserve at www.
gooutsideandplay.org. The gate is locked a half-hour
after sunset. Quiet time is 10 p.m.-7 a.m.
Fish Uvas Reservoir is not at Uvas Canyon County
Park, but rather is along Uvas Road, about 15 minutes
away. In the morning and evening, when shade takes
over the coves, fishing for small bass can be good
from shore. Cast small jigs and grubs. No boating
10 MILES
permitted (even though there is a boat ramp).
Palo
Alto
Facilities A restroom with flush toilets, sink and San
S
Saa
an
n Jos
JJose
Jo
o
os
ose
se
se
drinking water is available near the parking lot; an-
other restroom is available near the campground. Los Gatos
ato
to
os
Morgan
M org
Get there GPS location: 8515 Croy Road, Morgan Hill. Hill
$6 per vehicle. For weekend dates, reserve and pay
for day-use permit in advance at 408-355-2201 or Santa
ant
anta
nt
www.gooutsideandplay.org. Map/brochure is avail- ruz
z
Cruz Gil
G
Gi
Gilroy
Gilr
ilr
il
ilroy
oy
able at entrance; PDF at website. Leashed dogs OK

Monterey
nterey Bay
on trails; dogs allowed in campground and must be
leashed, attended and quiet. Uvas Canyon County
Park, 408-779-9232; Santa Clara County Parks,
408-355-2200; www.sccgov.org/sites/parks.

UVAS CANYON
A fern unfurls along the Waterfall Loop.
Micheal, 11, and Rodney Vasquez, 6, left,
search for insects in a pool of water.
Inset: a wild fuchsia blooms.

UVAS CANYON COUNTY PARK
The headwaters of Swanson Creek,
which builds and feeds a series
of waterfalls and smaller
cataracts.

SUNOL REGIONAL WILDERNESS
Flag Hill at Sunol Regional Wilderness
towers over the headwaters of Alameda
Creek and is a sensational perch to see
hovering raptors at eye-level.
OUTDOORS
WRITER
Tom Stienstra
MAGAZINE EDITOR
Deb Wandell
DESIGN DIRECTOR
Elizabeth Burr
DEPUTY DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY
Russell Yip
COPY EDITOR
Andrea Behr
GRAPHICS
Todd Trumbull
COLOR IMAGING
Anna Sarpieri
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Paul Chinn; Sean Culligan; Nathaniel Y.
Downes; Preston Gannaway; Carlos Avila
Gonzalez; Talia Herman; Mike Kepka;
Nader Khouri; Paul Kuroda; Scot Lang/City
of Santa Cruz; Frederic Larson; Gabrielle
Lurie; Michael Macor; Katie Meek; Connor
Radnovich; Sarah Rice; Eric Risberg/AP;
Walter Scriptunas/Visit Santa Cruz County;
Michael Short; Chris Stewart; Tom
Stienstra; Scott Strazzante; Ali Tahnawalla;
Mason Trinca; Alex Washburn
PUBLISHER
Bill Nagel
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Audrey Cooper
DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR, FEATURES
Kitty Morgan
ASSISTANT MANAGING EDITOR,
PRODUCTION
Ron Kitagawa
VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING
Sarah Morse Cooney CASTLE ROCK
SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, SALES STATE PARK
Ginger Neal King’s Creek feeds Castle
Rock Falls in San Mateo
VICE PRESIDENT, CIRCULATION County.
Brad Nichols

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San Francisco Chronicle | 3

4 | San Francisco Chronicle

San Francisco Chronicle | 5

8 Angel Island State Park

% Mount Diablo State Park

* East Bay Skyline National Recreation Trail

e Butano State Park

h Castle Rock State Park

FPO URBAN ESCAPES

0 Marina Green to Fort Point

@ Indian Rock Park

# Tilden Regional Park

& Lake Chabot Regional Park

2 Point Reyes National Seashore

b Pillar Point Harbor

c Pescadero State Beach

f Año Nuevo State Park

MOUNT DIABLO STATE PARK

Boating Cycling Hiking

Camping Dogs allowed Historical interest

6 | San Francisco Chronicle

d Pescadero Creek County Park

g Big Basin Redwoods State Park 35

Horses allowed Surfing Tours i

San Francisco Chronicle | 7

San Francisco Chronicle | 9

ly clear days, those with sharp

The drive People buy To Goat Rock From the

10 | San Francisco Chronicle

San Francisco Chronicle | 11

Butano State Park: Camping,

12 | San Francisco Chronicle

San Francisco Chronicle | 13

Skyline’s Highway 35:

Methuselah Tree, the Tafoni Monolith and many pristine

Purisima Creek Redwoods, 1 El Corte de Windy Hill From Spring Ridge, a

16 | San Francisco Chronicle

LONG RIDGE OPEN SPACE

best of the to Wildcat Canyon Regional Park

18 | San Francisco Chronicle

MacDonald Gate to Sky-

San Francisco Chronicle | 19

San Francisco Chronicle | 21

22 | San Francisco Chronicle

Mount Tamalpais: Trails

trailheads at Mount Rafael

Rock Spring, Mountain

Bootjack A 1.8-mile hike to East Peak Take

San Francisco Chronicle | 23

Mount Diablo: Rock City

26 | San Francisco Chronicle

San Francisco Chronicle | 27

28 | San Francisco Chronicle

Indian Rock: A climbers’

30 | San Francisco Chronicle

San Francisco Chronicle | 31

China Camp: Walk

32 | San Francisco Chronicle

Kayak Launch your kayak Novato

Tom Stienstra's Outdoors

Tom Stienstra's Outdoors