This method involves the raw liquid plastic
5 types of plastic being poured into a heated mould and then
modeling
1. Extrusion Moulding
With extrusion moulding, hot melted plastic is
pressed through a shaped hole to create a
lengthy shaped plastic part. This customizable
shape that the liquid plastic gets pressed
through is called a die. This die is custom made
for the particular outcome that is desired. It is
almost like pressing dough through a press to
make shaped cookies.
The other forms of plastic moulding also use
extrusion so get the raw liquid into the moulds,
the difference here is that other methods use
the moulds to make the desired shape and here
the extrusion itself is making the shape with the
use of the die’s shape.
Common Uses of
Extrusion Moulding
When using this method your outcome
product will continuously have the same
shape along the length of it. These can be
things like straws or PVC pipes. These types
of parts can be made at very high volumes
because it can just keep producing the same
shape without end.
In comparison, this type of moulding is low
cost because the equipment is fairly simple
and can have high productivity. The
downside to this method is that you are very
boxed in when it comes to the variety of
parts you can make.
2. Compression Moulding
being compressed together to form the
desired shape. The high temperature of the
entire process ensures good strength in the
final product. The process is finished off by
cooling the liquid plastic so that it keeps its
form before being trimmed and removed
from the mould.
Common Uses of
Compression Moulding
The most effective use for this method is when
you want to make plastic replacement parts for
broken metal parts. The reason for this is
because the high-temperature method makes
for a very strong and durable end product. Even
though it is plastic, it is a strong and low-cost
replacement for the metal parts.
The cost-effectiveness of this moulding method
depends on factors like the complexity of the
design, the number of
cavities and the surface finish. When you are
mass producing then this method is ideal
because the cost per part will be very low.
3. Blow Moulding
With blow moulding, the custom plastic parts
come out hollow and thin-walled. This method is
ideal for when the plastic part has to have
uniform wall thickness. This is very similar to the
process of glass blowing.
The machine heats up the raw plastic until it
becomes liquid and then injects air into it like a
balloon. The plastic is blown into a shaped mould
and as it gets bigger it presses against the mould
walls and it starts to take its shape. After the
liquid balloon fills the mould it is cooled to keep
its shape. The process is very fast and can
produce up to 1400 pieces in a 12-hour work
day.
4. Injection
Moulding
Injection Moulding is fairly similar to
extrusion moulding. The difference here is
that with injection moulding the melted
plastic is injected directly into a custom
mould. The injection is under high pressure
so that the mould is filled and a solid part is
made. As with the other methods, after the
mould is filled, the plastic is cooled as to
keep its new shape and then the mould is
opened.
Common Uses for
Injection Moulding
This is a common method to produce a high
volume of plastic parts like car parts or even
parts for surgical applications. Products can also
be made with increased flexibility to suit the
needs of designers or engineers.
When it comes to the pricing the moulds can be
very expensive because they need to be steel or
aluminium for higher strength and durability.
Luckily, as with most methods, the cost per unit
drops drastically depending on your production
volume.
It is also worth noting that tooling can take up to
16 weeks and production up to 4 weeks.
5. Rotational
Moulding
Also sometimes called rotomoulding, this
method involves the resin or liquid being placed
inside the mould and then being rotated at high
speeds. The liquid then evenly covers the entire
surface of the mould to create a hollowed part
with all the walls evenly thick. After the mould is
cooled and the liquid plastic has taken its new
form it is then taken out of the mould.
This method is very material efficient and very
little goes to waste making it more economical
and environmentally friendly.
Common Uses for
Rotational Moulding
The most common use for this method is for big
and hollow parts. These parts include car parts,
bins, kayaks, road cones, pet houses and storage
tanks.
The moulds that are used in rotational moulding
are highly intricate to make products
customizable and changeable. This can include
things like special inserts and curves as well as
logos and slots. These can be placed into the
mould to change the final product.
The tooling costs with rotational moulding are
lower than other methods like injection and
blow moulding. This makes for lower start-up
costs and more effective production costs even
at low volume production.

5 TYPES OF METAL
CONDUIT
Rigid Metal Conduit—RMC and IMC
Rigid metal conduit, or RMC, is heavy-
duty galvanized steel tubing that is
installed with threaded fittings. It is
typically used outdoors to provide
protection from damage and can also
provide structural support for electrical
cables, panels, and other equipment.
RMC is sold in 10- and 20-foot lengths
and has threads on both ends.
Intermediate metal conduit, or IMC, is a
thinner, lighter-weight version of rigid
metal conduit and is approved for use in
all of the same applications as RMC.
Because IMC is lighter and easier to work
with than RMC, it is more common in
new construction.
Electrical Non-Metallic Tubing—ENT
Electrical nonmetallic tubing (ENT) is
flexible corrugated plastic tubing that is
moisture-resistant and flame-retardant.
It is easy to bend and installs with snap-
lock or glued plastic fittings. Unlike EMT,
non-metallic tubing cannot installed in
exposed locations, so it is commonly
used inside walls. In addition to
installation in standard wood- or metal-
frame walls, ENT can be installed inside
concrete block structures and can be
covered with concrete. Due to the blue
color of one common brand of this
conduit, ENT is nicknamed "smurf
tube," after the Smurfs cartoon
characters
Flexible Metal Conduit—FMC and LFMC
Flexible metal conduit (FMC) is also
called "Greenfield," after the name of its
inventor. It has a spiral construction that
makes it flexible so it can snake through
walls and other structures. Standard FMC
is used in dry indoor locations, often for
short runs between a wall box and a
motor or fixed appliance, such as a
garbage disposer.
Liquid-tight flexible metal conduit (LFMC)
is a special type of flexible metal conduit
that has a plastic coating and is used with
sealed fittings to make it watertight. It is
commonly used with outdoor
equipment, such as air conditioner units.
Rigid PVC Conduit
Rigid polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is similar
to plastic plumbing pipe and is installed
with plastic fittings that are glued in
place. It can be bent after being heated in
a portable heater box. Because the
conduit tubing and fittings are glued
together, the conduit assemblies can be
watertight, making PVC suitable for
direct burial in the ground for many
applications. It is also allowed in
corrosive environments.
 4 Different Types of
Flexible Conduits
Explained
Flexible Metallic Conduit (FMC)
The flexible metallic conduit is manufactured out
of a strip of self-interlocked aluminum or steel
that has been coiled. The product is a kind of
hollow tube that can house wires and let them
in. The flexible metallic conduit is often used in
cases where a thin walled electrical metallic
conduit wouldn’t be wise, but still keeping in
consideration the capacity to sufficiently protect
the conductors that are to be housed inside.
Despite its being flexible, you cannot expect an
FMC to keep a bent position for a very long
period of time. In other words, it cannot be
expected to contort permanently.
Liquidtight Metallic Tubing
(LMT)
Liquidtight metallic tubing (LMT) is a
type of flexible conduit that has the capacity to
keep its inside from being penetrable by water.
This makes liquidtight metallic tubing ideal for
situations where you have to protect conductors
from being exposed to the harsh elements. You
can even use this tubing when you have to install
conductors in environments that have a lot of
coolant and are often exposed to mechanical
vibrations. The reason for the LMT being an
efficient house for any kind of wire is that the
aluminum strip that is coiled into a tube is
supplemented with a flexible PVC covering that
keeps everything out, making the tubing highly
impenetrable.
Flexible Metallic Tubing (FMT)
Flexible metallic tubing is
perfect for when you have to place wires
in high places like plenum ceilings and air
handling areas. As such, flexible metallic
tubing is perfect for when you are
working with light fixtures and anything
that would require stepping up on a
ladder. The reason for such functionality
is that FMT can prevent smoke and other
gasses from leaking out into any air
handling area. Because flexible metallic
tubing is not covered by any kind of
jacket, you don't have to worry about
fire burning the jacket off. Its only
weakness is that you can't use flexible
metallic tubing for places where
moisture is sure to accumulate. FMT
must only be placed in dry areas.
Liquidtight Flexible Nonmetallic
Conduit (LFNC)
The safest among all the
flexible electrical conduits invented, the
liquidtight flexible nonmetallic conduit is both
flame-resistant and water-resistant. You can use
a liquidtight flexible nonmetallic conduit for
areas that are wet, damp, and where fire is most
likely to develop. At the same time, a liquidtight
flexible nonmetallic conduit can be buried
underground, as corrosion is not an issue.
Types of Non-metallic Conduit
Rigid Non-metallic Conduit (RNC): This is a non-
metallic, unthreaded, smooth walled tubing. It
has been used for several years in the United
States, Canada, and Europe but has been under
scrutiny for years due to the fact that it is made
of combustible materials.
Electrical Non-metallic Tubing (ENT): This is a
thin-walled corrugated tubing that is moisture
resistant and flame retardant. It is pliable and
can be bent by hand. Installation is easy due to
its flexible properties. It is not threaded due to
its corrugated shape, although some fittings may
be.
Liquid-tight Flexible Non-metallic Conduit (LFNC):
this refers to several types of flame resistant
non-metallic tubing. It is recommended as a
raceway for the installation of approved
conductors with a nominal rating of 600V or less
for non-hazardous locations. Interior surfaces
can be smooth or corrugated.
Different Types of Electrical
Boxes
Electrical boxes are critical components of your
home's electrical system. But for many DIYers,
the wide variety of boxes is bewildering. There
are plastic and metal boxes; "new work" and "old
work" boxes; round, square, and octagonal
boxes; and boxes with load ratings for ceiling
fans and heavy light fixtures.
All of the most commonly used boxes for home
wiring projects are available at home centers and
large hardware stores, and it's important to
know the differences in order to buy the correct
boxes. There are a number of options to
consider: materials, shape, and size.
Metal and Plastic Electrical
Boxes
Most electrical boxes are either metal or plastic.
Metal boxes are generally made of steel, while
plastic boxes are either PVC or fiberglass.
Weatherpoof metal boxes for outdoor use are
generally made of aluminum.
If you are using metal conduit to run wiring to
the electrical box, then a metal box is required—
both to anchor the conduit and because the
conduit and metal box system itself may be used
to ground the system. If you are using non-
metallic cable, such as Type NM-B (non-metallic
sheathed cable), then you can use either plastic
boxes or metal boxes, as long as the cable is
secured to the box with an appropriate cable
clamp.
Modern wiring systems with NM-B cable usually
include a ground wire inside the cable, so the box
is not part of the grounding system (however,
metal boxes must be connected to the system
ground, usually with a short length of wire called
a pigtail).
Standard Rectangular Boxes
Single light fixture switches and outlet
receptacles typically fit into standard
rectangular boxes, also known as "single-
gang" or "one-gang" boxes. They are
generally 2 x 3 inches in size, with depths
ranging from 1 1/2 inches to 3 1/2 inches.
Some forms are "gangable"—with
detachable sides that can be removed so the
boxes can be linked together to form larger
boxes for holding two, three, or more
devices side-by-side.
Standard rectangular boxes come in various
types of "new work" and "old work" designs.
Some types have built-in cable clamps for
securing NM cables.
 2-Gang, 3-Gang, and 4-Gang
Boxes
Like standard rectangular boxes, these are used
to hold household switches and electrical
outlets, but they are oversized so that two,
three, or four devices can be mounted side-by-
side. Like other boxes, these come in a variety of
"new work" and "old work" designs, some with
built-in cable clamps.
The same effect can be created by using
standard rectangular boxes with a "gangable"
design that allows the sides to be removed so the
boxes can be joined together to form larger
boxes.
Round Pan Electrical Boxes
Round pan, or "pancake," boxes typically are
only 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch deep. They are used
most commonly for ceiling- or wall-mounted
light fixtures that weigh no more than 50
pounds. Some types of specially rated metal pan
boxes may be used for mounting ceiling fans,
but not all pan boxes may be used for this
purpose.
It's important that the fixture wires can be
properly connected and fitted within the round
pan box. These are shallow electrical boxes with
only enough space for fitting two or three
electrical connections. If there are more wire
connections to be made, you will probably need
a full-sized octagon or round electrical box with
more volume. The number of wires in the box
should never exceed its safe fill capacity.
Octagon and Round Electrical
Boxes
Octagon and standard-size round boxes range
from 1 1/2 to 3 inches deep and are the standard
box for ceiling- or wall-mounted light fixtures
weighing up to 50 pounds. They provide much
more room for wiring than shallow round pan
boxes and can be used as junction boxes.
Metal boxes are suitable for surface-mounted
installations using metal conduit. Round plastic
boxes often have "ears" for fastening to the wall
or ceiling surface in existing or "old work"
applications. These allow you to secure the box
to the drywall (or other surface material) rather
than cutting a large hole in the drywall to fasten
the box to the framing
Ceiling Fan-Rated Electrical Box
Ceiling fan boxes come in several different types
and sizes, including 1/2-inch-deep "pancake"
versions and standard 2 1/8-inch-deep
boxes. They are usually round but may be
octagonal.
Ceiling fan boxes must be UL-listed for ceiling fan
mounting and marked “For Use With Ceiling
Fans.” Do not use standard round or octagonal
boxes for installing ceiling fans. Ceiling fan boxes
require special fastening to withstand the
dynamic loading of a rotating fan.
Most ceiling fan boxes are rated for fans or light
fixtures weighing up to 75 pounds, depending on
the installation method. Boxes can be mounted
directly (with four screws) to a ceiling joist or
wood blocking, or they can attach to adjustable
braces spanning between ceiling joists.
4-Inch Square Box
Square boxes come in standard
depths of 1 1/4 to 2 1/8 inches, but
their square corners give them
additional interior space, providing
maximum volume for multiple
conductors and connectors. For this
reason, 4-inch square boxes often are
used to run multiple conductors in two
or more directions. They are also
commonly used as junction boxes and
can also be installed in ceilings or walls
for supporting lighting fixtures or for
housing switches or receptacles when
matched with the proper cover plates.
Junction Box
A junction box is not a special type of
box but rather a term used to describe
any standard electrical box used to
enclose wire splices. The standard box
used for junctions is a 4-inch square
box, which offers plenty of space for
making wire connections with multiple
wires or cables, but other type of
boxes can be also used for this
application.
Junction boxes must be installed
where they are always accessible;
never install a junction box in a
concealed wall or ceiling space where
the box cannot be accessed in the
future. Junction boxes also must be
covered with solid covers with no
holes.
Electrical Box Covers
Electrical box covers come in a wide
variety of sizes and shapes to match
different types of boxes. A cover
is used to enclose the front of the box
and is required by code; it is unsafe,
and usually illegal, to leave an
electrical box uncovered.
Solid, or "blank," covers have no holes
and typically are used with junction
boxes or for enclosing unused boxes.
Covers for 4-inch square boxes may
have special cutouts to accommodate
switches or receptacles (outlets).
These typically include a raised center
area that extends the box so the
opening for the switch or outlet will be
flush with the exposed surface of the
drywall or other wall or ceiling finish
Outdoor Electrical Box
Weatherproof outdoor boxes
are sealed enclosures designed for
mounting to the surface of exterior
walls, roof overhangs, decks, and
other structures. They are used for
installing outdoor receptacles
(outlets) and light fixtures. Outdoor
boxes must have an outdoor cover or
fixture rated for damp or wet
locations, depending on
the application.
Plastic outdoor boxes are usually
made from high-impact PVC, while
metal outdoor boxes are typically
made from aluminum rather than
steel.
Box Extenders
Box extenders, or extension
rings, come in a variety of sizes and
shapes to match standard electrical
boxes. They are shaped like boxes but
have no back. They are designed to be
installed onto the front of standard
electrical boxes to increase the box
capacity or to bring the box flush with
the drywall or other surface material.
.
1. Size of Wires – Each application requires a
certain wire size for installation, and the right
size for a specific application is determined by
the wire gauge. 2. Wire Lettering – The letters
THHN, THWN, THW and XHHN represent the
main insulation types of individual wires. These
letters depict the following NEC requirements:.
T – Thermoplastic insulation
H – Heat resistance
HH – High heat resistance (up to 194°F)
W – Suitable for wet locations
N – Nylon coating, resistant to damage by oil or
gas
X – Synthetic polymer that is flame-resistant
3. Types of Wires – There are mainly 5 types of
wire: .
4. Color Codes – Different color wires serve
different purposes, like:.
Black : Hot wire, for switches or outlets.
Red : Hot wire, for switch legs. Also for
connecting wire between 2 hardwired smoke
detectors.
Blue and Yellow : Hot wires, pulled in conduit.
Blue for 3-4 way switch application, and yellow
for switch legs to control fan, lights etc.
White : Always neutral.
Green and Bare Copper : Only for grounding.
5. Wire Gauge, Ampacity and Wattage Load
– To determine the correct wire, it is important
to understand what ampacity and wattage a wire
can carry per gauge. Understanding Electrical
Cable
Solid wire, also called solid-core or single-
strand wire, consists of one piece of
metal wire. Solid wire is useful
for wiring breadboards. Solid wire is cheaper to
manufacture than stranded wire and is used
where there is little need for flexibility in
the wire.
Stranded wire
A metal wire that is made up of several
smaller wires twisted together. Stranded wire is
more flexible than wire with a solid core.
Prefused wire
is stranded wire made up of strands that
are heavily tinned, then fused
together. Prefused wire has many of the
properties of solid wire, except it is less likely to
break.
Braided wire
A tube of fine wires woven around a conductor
or cable for shielding purposes or used alone in
flattened form as a grounding strap.
THHN
stands for "Thermoplastic High Heat-
resistant Nylon-coated." THHN is a
designation for a specific insulation material,
temperature rating, and condition of use
(suitable for dry and damp locations) for
electrical wire and cable.
THWN stands for "Thermoplastic
Heat and Water-resistant Nylon-
coated." THWN is a designation for a
specific insulation material, temperature
rating, and condition of use (wet locations)
for electrical wire and cable
.THW wire– Indicates a single conductor
having flame-retardant, moisture and heat-
resistant thermoplastic insulation.
.TW wire– Indicates a single conductor
having flame-retardant, moisture-resistant
thermoplastic insulation. The wire is rated
60°C wet or dry.TW cable and wires are
used generally in building wiring, feeder and
branch circuits, and internal secondary
industrial distribution.
DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw)
This switch is equal to two SPDT
switches, it means two separate circuits,
connecting two inputs of each circuit to
one of two outputs. The switch position
controls the number of ways and from the
two contacts each contact can be routed.

Types of Switch
SPST (Single Pole Single Throw)

The SPST is a basic ON/OFF switch, that

is used to connect or break the
connection between two terminals. The
power supply for the owl circuit is given
by this switch. A simple PST switch is
shown below

SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw)

The SPDT switch is a three terminal

switch, one terminal is used as input and
remaining two terminals are used as
outputs. It joins a mutual terminal to one
or the other of two terminals. In the SPDT
switch, instead of other terminals, just
use COM terminal. For example, we can
use COM & A or COM & B.

DPST (Double Pole, Single Throw)

The DPST switch consists of two poles

that means it includes two identical
switches located on side by side. This
switch is operated by one single toggle,
which means that two discrete circuits
are controlled at a time through one
push.