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NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

MITHAPUR, PATNA

APPAREL QUALITY MANAGEMENT

COMPLIANCE GUIDELINES OF MARKS AND SPENCER

SUBMITTED BY:
ABHINAV VERMA

(BFT/17/426)
TABLE OF CONTENT

S. NO TOPIC PAGE NO

1. Preface 3

2. Acknowledgement 4

3. MARKS AND SPENCER 5

4. Compliance in a Garment Industry 6

5. Compliance Requirement of M&S 7

5.1. Factory/Worker Safety 7

5.2 Environment 8

5.3 Chemical Safety 9

5.4 Production Safety 10

5.5 Quality 11

6 References 13

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PREFACE

Compliance Guidelines of MARKS AND SPENCER mainly aims Basic Quality Tools and its implementation on the
garment industry.

I have covered the basic compliances in a garment industry and compliance requirements of M&S which
further include compliances relating to Factory/Worker Safety, Environment, Chemical Safety, Production
Safety and Quality.

ABHINAV VERMA

BFT/17/426

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I would like to thank National Institute of Fashion Technology for giving me the opportunity to take up this
project on the Compliance Guidelines of MARKS AND SPENCER.

Foremost, I would like to thank my subject faculty as well as my CC, Mr. Jayant Kumar for giving their
invaluable feedback and guidance on this project throughout the semester. This could not have been achieved
without their support.

I also acknowledge with a deep sense of gratitude, the encouragement and inspiration received from my
seniors and friends for providing me relevant information throughout this assignment.

ABHINAV VERMA

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MARKS & SPENCER

Marks & Spencer Group (commonly abbreviated as M&S or colloquially Marks and Sparks) is a major British
multinational retailer with headquarters in Westminster, London that specializes in selling high quality
clothing, home products and food products.

Marks & Spencer has been around since 1884, and over more than a century, the group has changed the way
we think and feel about the retail world in the UK. Though M&S has faced a few hurdles in its time, it’s also
shown us the power of a brand that stays true to its values, and consistent with its corporate image, while still
continuously evolving.

Marks & Spencer offers high quality fashion, award-winning food and stylish home ware. Founded more than
a century ago and with 1463 stores across 57 countries, today they are one of the UK’s leading retailers.

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COMPLIANCE IN A GARMENT INDUSTRY

Adhering to set standards, practices, industry rules and government regulation is crucial, no matter which
industry you work in. However, in the apparel industry, conforming to recognized standards of production is
one of the most important steps in order to produce high-quality products while achieving production goals
and maximizing profits.

Compliance means conformity of certain standards. Every apparel industry should maintain a moderate
working condition for their employees. Also the entire well established project tries to maintain good
compliance but there are some lacking of proper compliance issues.

Here are some of the general compliance guidelines for garment industry:

 Compensation for holiday

 Leave with wages
 Labor welfare
 Overtime register
 Drinking water supply
 First aid box
 Rubber mats and ironers
 Emergency exits
 Doctor
 Room temperature
 Lighting facility

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COMPLIANCE REQUIREMENT OF M&S
 FACTORY/WORKER SAFETY

i. All fire exits and escape routes are clearly signposted (in local language), unlocked and
are not obstructed
All and any exit within a building should be considered a potential exit to safety. Often these exits become
invisible or forgotten about by employees and start to blend in and become more unnoticed. Exit paths are
often somewhat obstructed by items such as boxes, workstations, garbage containers and other items that
can slow down the progression of getting to safety quickly. The importance of a clear hallway, stairwell or
ramp is not realized until they have been completely inaccessible during an emergency. Therefore these areas
should be clear and properly signed.

ii. Regular safety training is given to workers

Workplace safety training is as vital as workplace safety itself. It enables the workers to ensure a safe and
healthy work environment. It also helps the employees to recognize safety hazards and correct them. It
enables them to understand best safety practices and expectations.

iii. Combustible materials are stored safely

When not in use, containers of flammable liquids needed for current work activities should be kept closed and
stored in suitable cabinets or bins of fire-resisting construction and which are designed to retain spills. These
should be located in designated areas that are where possible away from the immediate processing area and
do not jeopardize the means of escape from the workroom/working area. The flammable liquids should be
stored separately from other dangerous substances that may enhance the risk of fire or compromise the
integrity of the container or cabinet/bin.

iv. All machines are electrically & mechanically safe with dated service records
The machines should be properly guarded and kept safe with correct date of servicing or maintenance done.
This should be done to prevent electric shocks or any other mishappening in the industry.

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  ENVIRONMENT

i. Monthly independent effluent test results are retained for at least 12 months
Effluent from textile coloration is viewed as the biggest source of pollution and environmental damage in the
supply chain when it is not correctly managed. The Marks & Spencer policy with regards to effluent control
have been in place for many years and are designed to ensure that any mills supplying Marks & Spencer
comply with the local and national laws as an absolute minimum.

ii. Air quality meets local authority standards satisfactory throughout factory
Control of air emissions is important for both environmental and worker safety reasons, as fumes, dust and
smoke can create serious health issues. It is normal for local authorities to have strict standards for air
emissions and factories must be in possession of the appropriate certification to demonstrate compliance.

iii. Waste is stored in segregated, labeled areas and should be accordingly recycled
Marks & Spencer suppliers should only send waste to disposal when all other safe opportunities for recycling
and reuse have been explored. Empty chemical drums and boxes can be reused, waste fabric can be sold to
textile waste processors, and solid waste from ETPs can in some areas be used as a fertilizer.

iv. Records of water, energy & chemical use are kept

There are many opportunities to reduce water, energy, chemicals and environmental impacts without making
fundamental changes to dyeing, laundry, tannery and printing processes.

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  CHEMICAL SAFETY

i. All stored dyes and chemicals are labeled, and hazards are clearly signed
All chemicals, both substances and preparations, should have a clear marking to indicate their identity. The
packages and containers of dangerous substances and preparations should, in addition to marking only, to
have a label with required information.

ii. Incompatible chemicals are stored separately (e.g. acid and alkaline)

It is essential to segregate incompatible substances. The improper storage or mixing of chemicals can result in
serious incidents and injuries. Being aware of time-sensitive compounds such as ethers which once opened
and exposed to the air can produce peroxides which are highly explosive. This means a regular review of what
is being stored and disposal of surplus or unwanted chemicals.

iii. The latest version of the M&S ECP (MSDS) document is available in the factory in the
local language

An authentic Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for each chemical must be available in the local language and
kept in close proximity to the chemical for ease of access. Storage advice on the MSDS must be followed at all
times. MSDS’s should be consulted for advice on safe storage.

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  PRODUCTION SAFETY

i. The lab must have direct access to Marks & Spencer spectral data standards

The most obvious task for the dye laboratory is to produce lab dyes that match color standards for customer
approval. To ensure the efficiency of this task, substrates should be prepared in the bulk dye house wherever
possible since laboratory preparation is notoriously poor and inconsistent and should be matched with the
data standards.

ii. Instrumental color measurement and intelligent computerized systems must be used
for recipe prediction and formulation

Marks & Spencer were one of the pioneers of instrumental color measurement and spectral data standards.
We expect all our suppliers to be using instrumental color measurement and intelligent computerized recipe
prediction systems. Once a recipe has been developed it is recommended that automated dispensing
equipment is used to prepare the laboratory recipes to ensure accurately weighed dyestuffs are used for the
lab dyes.

iii. Dye stores must be clean, dry and tidy and all dyes & chemicals must be labeled

Marks & Spencer require as a minimum that dye and chemical stores are clean, dry and tidy and that workers
are provided with appropriate PPE. Each dyestuff should be stored in a clearly labeled closed container, and an
individual scoop or spoon for each dyestuff must be used to minimize the risk of cross-contamination. It is best
practice to transport these containers to the balance before the dye is removed, as carrying small quantities of
dye over large distances results in inaccuracy.

iv. Machines must be maintained and serviced on a regular basis

Machine selection, maintenance and control systems are important factors in determining if a factory is
capable of making products efficiently and to the required Marks & Spencer standards. The last two decades
have seen some major changes in the fundamental design of dyeing, printing and finishing equipment so it
important to keep machine knowledge up to date.

v. Sand blasting is not to be used on any Marks & Spencer products

To ensure the safety and long term health of workers, sand blasting using crystalline silica is banned for all
Marks & Spencer production, and alternatives such as hand scraping, enzyme treatment and laser techniques
should be considered.

vi. The use of pumice is not permitted for any Marks & Spencer Children wear products

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 Residual pumice left in the pockets of Children wear products is considered a choking hazard. As a result of
this potential risk to children, Marks & Spencer have banned the use of pumice in any Children wear products.
The use of abrasive balls in combination with cellulose enzymes is recommended as an alternative.

 QUALITY

i. Colour continuities must be retained

Colour continuity is a system used to manage shade consistency of bulk batches relative to the approved
standard. Good colour continuity is based on the use of continuity cards which help ensure ‘drift’ from the
original standards does not occur for repeat batches. Continuity cards must always have the approved
customer colour attached. A copy of a typical Marks & Spencer master standard is shown below.

ii. Finished fabrics and products must be tested in an accredited laboratory using M&S test
methods

Finished fabrics and products must be tested in an accredited laboratory using Marks & Spencer test methods
to demonstrate that the product meets the required specification and standards. A record of the test results
must be kept in case there are any consumer complaints, product failures or legal investigations.

iii. Products must be examined

Examination of fabric should only occur after testing, as products that fail tests will need to be rejected or
reprocessed before they are inspected. In general it is best to have the fabric examination tables with
standard lighting and a back light. It is recommended that swatches are taken from each fabric roll for
assessment of color. Fault labeling is very helpful for garment makers and there are some automatic systems
that create an electronic ‘fault map’ and produce cutting plans with minimal wastage.

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iv. There must be a quarantine area for non-conforming products

Quarantine areas are where non-conforming products are separated from conforming products. These areas
should be clearly marked, and even segregated from the rest of the factory to ensure poor quality, non-
conforming products are not shipped to the customer.

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REFRENCES

 https://corporate.marksandspencer.com/documents/plan-a-our-approach/ecp-modules-2016/mns-ecp-textile-
wet-processing.pdf
 https://corporate.marksandspencer.com/documents/plan-a-our-approach/ecp-modules-2016/mns-ecp-self-
audit-wet-processing.pdf
 https://global.marksandspencer.com/about-ms/
 https://www.nottingham.ac.uk/safety/documents/chem-storage.pdf
 https://www.ilo.org/legacy/english/protection/safework/cis/products/safetytm/classify.htm

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