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Waxes and Oils are lipids, having hydrophobic properties, and are
derived from plants and animals. Oil is simply fat with unsaturated
fatty acid chains, and is found in liquid form at room temperature.
Waxes are very much like fats or oil, except that they are malleable
in normal conditions, and have only single long-chain fatty acid,
attached to a long-chain alcohol group. In general, lipids are a
group of molecules made up of organic compounds such as fats and
oils, waxes, phospholipids, steroids, sphingolipids, and
prostaglandins, and are very much like the carbohydrates, but the
hydrogen-to-oxygen ratio of lipids will be greater than 2:1. Their
carbon-hydrogen-oxygen bonds will also remain non-polar
covalent. Lipids are not soluble in water, and they accumulate in
the body as a source of energy, making the cells, with the help of
carbohydrates and proteins.
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Wax
Waxes are non edible, low melting point solids, available in
synthetic and natural forms. The natural waxes that are
synthesized by animals contain esters of carboxylic acids bonded to
long chain alcohols, while those produced by the plants have typical
mixtures of substituted hydrocarbons. Irrespective of species and
geographic locations, the composition of these natural waxes will
remain the same. They are very soft and melt easily than the
synthetic waxes. Plants make use of the insoluble-in-water nature
of their waxes for providing waterproofing and protective covering
of stems and leaves by preventing any water leakage. Likewise,
animals also produce the waxes to protect their body. The ear wax
of humans, which is an example, protects the ears from any foreign
materials entering the ear and injuring the canal area.
Oil
Oil is defined as any neutral, non-polar chemical substance in the
form of a viscous liquid at normal temperatures, having
hydrophobic and lipophilic properties. It is called a triglyceride as
it is formed out of glycerol and three fatty acids through the process
of dehydration synthesis. Due to their high carbon
and hydrogen content, oils become flammable and slippery. Oil can
be extracted from animals, vegetables or petrochemicals either as
a volatile or as a non-volatile liquid. It is best as fuel and lubricant,
and also as a purifying agent in religious ceremonies. Oil has been
used throughout the human history as a support for the life.
Cooking oils are produced either from animal fat or from plants,
through natural metabolic processes. Organic oils contain
chemicals including proteins, waxes and alkaloids. Oil is the most
important fuel in the world and is responsible for our present
standard of living. Petrol, diesel, jet fuel, etc., are examples of
transport oils. The byproducts got during the oil refining process
are very valuable and are used in the production of plastics,
chemicals, pesticides, fertilizers, lubricants, waxes, tars and
asphalts. Commercial oil production was started in the 1850s.
Oils, fats and waxes are important raw materials used throughout numerous industries.
This essay offers an overview of the types and characteristics of oils, fats and waxes,
outlining the difficulties in achieving a distinct classification.
Consideration is given to both natural and synthetic oils, fats and waxes, examining
their origin, and the production and processing techniques applied to each.
Focusing on their role within the cosmetics industry, examples of their uses will be
discussed, along with a review of the potential limitations and formulation problems that
can arise as a result of their chemical nature.
Figure 1:
Although different, oils, fats and waxes can be subdivided into the same classifications,
ie natural, comprising ‘true’ and natural derivatives, and synthetic, comprising
petrochemical derivatives and silicones.
Figure 2:
The different types of triglyceride present give oils and fats their various properties. For
example, whether the triglycerides are saturated or unsaturated affects the melting
point, unsaturated triglycerides having a lower melting point than saturated triglycerides
with the same carbon chain length.
The triglycerides’ carbon chain length also affects the melting point, with a longer chain
giving a higher melting point. Waxes are also comprised of esters. However, they
mainly consist of monoesters, which are formed between a fatty alcohol molecule and a
fatty acid molecule.
These monoesters range in chain length, from 16-30 carbon atoms, and are usually
saturated.
The only discernible difference between fats and oils is
their state at ambient temperature
Figure 3:
Figure 5:
To produce the silicones used in cosmetics and toiletries, silicon/silicon metal first
needs to be extracted from raw materials, such as sand, quartzite and granite rock,
because silicon does not occur in its unbound form in nature.
To achieve separation, a carbo-thermic smelting process is employed, in which the
reduction of sand at very high temperature releases the silicon. The silicon then
undergoes three additional manufacturing processes before becoming silicones.
The first process is chlorosilane synthesis, where silicon is reacted with methylchloride
in the presence of a copper-based catalyst to produce chlorosilanes, the most abundant
of which is dimethyldichlorosilane. Distillation is then carried out to separate the
chlorosilanes. The next process is chlorosilane hydrolysis, which yields silanols.
These cyclic and linear oligomers can then be used without further processing.
However, the majority of silicones used in cosmetics and toiletries require a final
“finishing process”, ie polymerisation (cyclic) and polycondensation (linear). This
enables the creation of the vast array of silicones used in cosmetics and toiletries.
Oils, fats and waxes in cosmetics
Oils, fats and waxes can be used in cosmetic formulations as solubilisers, superfatting
agents, consistence factors, consistency factors, emollients and dispersing agents.
Natural oils and fats are especially important as they are also used for the production of
all classes of surfactants.
The solubiliser polysorbate 20 can be derived from coconut oil and enables fragrance or
essential oils to be incorporated into a solution; superfatting agents cetyl and stearyl
alcohols are used in hair conditioners; and the consistency factors ozokerite and
microcrystalline wax are a frequently used in combination in lipsticks, providing good oil
binding and strength.
Emollients lubricate, protect, moisturise and provide a pleasant skin feel. Petrolatum is
commonly used as an emollient in a wide variety of products. Cocoa butter and shea
butter are examples of commonly used natural emollients, while silicone derivatives
dimethicone and cyclomethicone can be used as emollients in products for which a non-
greasy feel is desired.
The main problem for natural oils and fats is that their
triglyceride components have a propensity to oxidise
and hydrolyse
Advantages &
Disadvantages of Fats
By Karen Curinga
Believe it or not, a healthy body needs fats. Getting the right kind and amount
of dietary fat, however, can be tricky. If you eat too much of the wrong kind of
fat, you increase your risk for health problems. If you don't get enough of the
right kind of fats, your body's optimal functioning is compromised. Making the
right dietary fat choices helps promotes long-term heath and well-being.
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Fat's Function
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Like carbohydrates and proteins, fats are nutrients that supply energy to your
body. This not only supports physical activity but also keeps your body's
internal processes working at their optimal level. Fat is an important part of
cell membranes and influences how your body's muscles respond to insulin.
Cholesterol -- a waxy, fatlike substance found in every cell of your body -- is
needed for the production of certain hormones. Fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E
and K depend on fat for absorption and transportation throughout the body.
Fats also make foods taste good.
Advantages of Good Fats
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Eating unsaturated fats, which primarily come from plant sources and are
liquid at room temperature, is advantageous to your body's health.
Unsaturated fats, also referred to as good fats, reduce inflammation, stabilize
your heartbeat and reduce low-density lipoproteins. This LDL cholesterol
increases your risk for heart disease. Polyunsaturated fats found in foods
such as salmon, tuna and walnuts contain omega-3 fatty acids, which help
lower triglycerides and LDL cholesterol. Vegetables oils, including corn,
soybean, safflower and sunflower oil, are also polyunsaturated fats - PUFAs.
Monounsaturated fats -- MUFAs -- include olive oil, canola oil and peanut oil.
Saturated and Trans Fats
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Understanding the differences between good fats and bad fats is the key to
making better food choices that support your heart health and weight
management while reducing your risk for chronic disease. Check food labels
to ensure you're avoiding foods packed with saturated or trans fats. Consume
less than 10 percent of your daily calories from saturated fats and replace
them with unsaturated fats whenever possible. Eliminate trans fats from your
diet.
Deodorization, which is the last step of refining process, is a distillation process, using steam
as carrier, in order to remove unwanted odor and taste from the degummed or
neutralized oil for the purpose of producing high quality oil or tallow
tal·low
/ˈtalō/
Learn to pronounce
noun
1. a hard fatty substance made from rendered animal fat, used in making candles and
soap.