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48V Electric Flat Tracker

by Radioactive_Legos on January 3, 2009

Table of Contents

48V Electric Flat Tracker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro: 48V Electric Flat Tracker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1: The Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 2: Front Fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 3: Rear Brake Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 4: Rear Hub/Sprocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 5: Rear Drive Complete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 6: Motor Mount and Foot Pegs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 7: Mount: Drilled and Welded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Step 8: Seat Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Step 9: Welding Complete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 10: First Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 11: Final Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 12: The Maiden Voyage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

http://www.instructables.com/id/48V-Electric-Flat-Tracker/
Intro: 48V Electric Flat Tracker
About a year ago, my dad and I had the idea to convert a beach cruiser bike into an electric motorcycle. We purchased the bike and all the parts necessary and got to
work. We modified the frame and rebuilt the bike from the ground up. When we finished, we were extremely satisfied with the results - a 48 volt, 15 horsepower board
track racer.

Step 1: The Components

We started with a Felt beach cruiser because it had the right look. We wanted a beefy bike that could fit all the components. The goal was to keep the center of gravity as
low as possible. Here are the rest of the main components we purchased:
- Briggs and Stratton Etek motor (now discontinued)
- Alltrax AXE 300-amp programmable controller
- Magura 0-5K ohm twist-grip throttle
- 4 x 12V, 21Ah sealed lead acid batteries
- Avid BB7 mechanical disc brakes (160mm rotors)
- #35 moped chain
- 13-tooth drive sprocket
- 66-tooth rear sprocket
- big power switch
- 300-amp fuse
- 8 1/4 in. stainless steel motor mount (this replaces the original bottom bracket)

http://www.instructables.com/id/48V-Electric-Flat-Tracker/
Step 2: Front Fork
We removed the original rigid front fork and replaced it with a Manitou suspension fork. We also bolted on an Avid disc brake set to the front end. We chose to go with
mechanical discs instead of hydraulics simply because they are less expensive and less complicated. The Avid BB7's are fully adjustable. You can dial in each pad
separately.

Step 3: Rear Brake Mount

Because the bike we purchased used coaster brakes (pedal backwards to stop), we had to fabricate a mount in the rear to accept our other disc brake. We used a jigsaw
to cut out a piece of steel for the main shape. Next, we used a drill press to tap holes for the brake.

http://www.instructables.com/id/48V-Electric-Flat-Tracker/
Step 4: Rear Hub/Sprocket
The rear hub we used is designed as a "dual disc" front hub. It has a standard mountain bike 6 bolt disc pattern on both sides. We took a blank 66 tooth rear sprocket and
drilled it to accept the 6 bolt pattern. The alignment of the hub, sprocket, and disc rotor are critical.

Step 5: Rear Drive Complete

Here the brake mount is welded on, the wheels have been laced to the hubs, and on the right side, the seat stay has been crimped to get clearance from the chain and
sprocket. The axle tension adjusters we used were from Answer Products.

Step 6: Motor Mount and Foot Pegs

The motor mount (cut from the same piece of steel as the brake mount) is welded into the stainless steel ring and the ring is welded into place, exactly center, replacing
the original bottom bracket. The foot peg mounts are made from a couple of old work light stands welded together.

http://www.instructables.com/id/48V-Electric-Flat-Tracker/
Step 7: Mount: Drilled and Welded
Centering the motor ring is very important. The ring is a section of a stainless steel light post salvaged from a scrap yard cut to 4 1/4 inches wide. It is 8 1/4 inches in
diameter which leaves about a 1/8 inch gap around the motor. It is perforated on the drill press to allow air flow to the motor and notched on the right side for chain
clearance. The motor mount is welded offset inside the ring for optimal motor shaft and chain placement. Mounts are welded to the underside of the motor ring to accept
the removable foot peg assembly. The foot pegs themselves are aluminum BMX "grinder" pegs.

Step 8: Seat Mount

The original seat post was removed, cut short, and welded on the seat stay bridge over the rear tire and a gusset was added for strength. A rubber cap was put over the
existing seat tube, and the seat clamp was flipped and reversed.

http://www.instructables.com/id/48V-Electric-Flat-Tracker/
Step 9: Welding Complete
Here you can see the bike coming together. The beefy wheels and lower saddle position give it a retro look. Notice the brazed on eyelets for the rear brake cable routing.

Step 10: First Assembly

The battery trays were fabricated from aluminum stock. Each tray was then riveted together and bolted to a right and left panel. The panels are then bolted to each side of
the frame. Note the power switch in the center. The right and left panels are asymmetrical to accept the terminals on the back side of the power switch. The controller is
mounted upside down under the top tube with the terminals pointing backwards.

Step 11: Final Assembly

After we had finished the assembly, we had to wire it up. Within a few hours, we were testing it up and down the parking lot. It really accelerates quickly and we have not
tested it for top speed. It is estimated to do better than 50 mph.
The controller we used can connect to a PC via a serial (RS-232) cable. With the freeware on their site, alltraxinc.com , you can view statistics in real time, change
settings, and adjust the power curve for the throttle.

http://www.instructables.com/id/48V-Electric-Flat-Tracker/
Step 12: The Maiden Voyage
This was the first chance we really got to ride the bike to its (almost) full potential. The bike is smooth, quiet, well-balanced, all torque and pretty fast. It's a blast to ride!
After finishing it, we decided to call it the EV-12 for various reasons.

http://www.instructables.com/id/48V-Electric-Flat-Tracker/
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 298 comments

1up says: Aug 10, 2010. 3:51 PM REPLY

Without a doubt, the nicest electric bike I have ever seen. Amazing work.

norrisj says: Mar 17, 2011. 4:10 PM REPLY

How much did it cost?

Tinworm says: Sep 7, 2009. 5:25 AM REPLY

hi (this is my maiden posting!) according to a site I just saw, in order to be street legal in the UK (without need for insurance, MOT, TAX and helmet), an
electric cycle must be capable of being pedalled without the engine, have an output of no more than 250watts and a maximum speed of 15.5mph under
power. I love this project. It looks superb, but I presume that in the UK you would need to treat it as a motor vehicle and that it would then be subject to all the
usual bureaucracy?

dasimpson1981 says: Mar 7, 2011. 6:40 AM REPLY

this bike in the uk from what i know would come under the 125cc category for horsepower it would also need an sva test befor it could be taken on the
rode

dasimpson1981 says: Mar 7, 2011. 6:38 AM REPLY

shame these motor do not rotate at 6000rpm otherwise a 125cc motorcycles gear box could be used with them

I8mAll says: Mar 6, 2011. 10:25 AM REPLY

Concentrated Art is what this is. Buckminster-Fuller said "If it looks elegant, then it's probably right'. This thing ticks all the right boxes. My Compliments...

http://www.instructables.com/id/48V-Electric-Flat-Tracker/
 rybokc1 says: Mar 3, 2011. 9:43 AM REPLY
I definitely agree this is a great look for an electric bike. I wonder about leaving the batteries opena nd exposed though. Any dieas on building casing around
the batteries without making it too bulky (likely also packed with foam to keep them in good shape)?

rybokc1 says: Mar 3, 2011. 8:41 AM REPLY

You know what would make this bike even more practical is a solar recharger. I live about 8 miles from my work. If I could take this to work, leave it outside
in the sun knowing it was recharging, that would really be something! I would feel comfort knowing that my bike was recharged (maybe not fully - but enough
to replenish some of what I used to get there).

taiden says: Jan 22, 2011. 12:08 AM REPLY

I love the bike. I love the vtwin look. I'm curious how much you estimate the whole project cost? Not including labor of course.

Also was it MIG or TIG welded?

Best wishes,
Luke

cody777 says: Feb 19, 2011. 7:27 PM REPLY

it looks like stainless so you need to tig weld it

taiden says: Feb 19, 2011. 8:16 PM REPLY

You can MIG and even stick weld stainless steel. That is a common misconception about stainless. :)

cody777 says: Feb 19, 2011. 7:24 PM REPLY

how much did this cost

FurtherThanTesla says: Feb 8, 2011. 7:00 PM REPLY

I want to make a solar racer with that motor setup, and was wondering- Whats the gear ration on the sproket and motor? and how much was that particular
motor?

PyroBuilder15 says: Feb 14, 2011. 1:57 PM REPLY

The new version of it is about $450 USD, i found it here, http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/ETK-ETEKR.html
You might be able to find it a bit cheaper somewhere else though.

FurtherThanTesla says: Feb 15, 2011. 7:04 PM REPLY

Ive seen similar Perm Mag DC motors on ebay for upper 200's

PyroBuilder15 says: Feb 13, 2011. 12:41 PM REPLY

AWESOME! I'm gonna build this! I already have a beach cruiser lying around some where, so i'll take off the rust and hopefully begin working on it... I hope.

coolbhuvanjain says: Jan 17, 2011. 3:39 AM REPLY

in the materials it was written that the motor is discontinued so how we will get that motor

mabyu says: Jun 14, 2010. 4:45 PM REPLY

would this motor work? http://cgi.ebay.ca/NEW-1000-Watt-36-Volt-Motor-w-t-Braket-MY1020-
B_W0QQitemZ330273477976QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4ce5d55558#ht_111

Radioactive_Legos says: Jun 14, 2010. 6:17 PM REPLY

That would probably work alright for a light bike, however it is only around 1/10th the power of the motor we used on the bike so don't expect great
acceleration or speed. Electric scooters usually have a motor between 100 and 500 watts as a point of reference...

Heinestien says: Dec 27, 2010. 5:23 PM REPLY

How about this motor?...they say it is the new successor for ur motor
http://www.robotcombat.com/products/ETK-ETEKR.html

Radioactive_Legos says: Dec 27, 2010. 5:25 PM REPLY

Yep, that'll do it :)

http://www.instructables.com/id/48V-Electric-Flat-Tracker/
 tinyneutrino says: Jul 8, 2010. 1:39 PM REPLY
I have a E+Bikes Tidal Force M-750; which gets me a good 20MPH. The acceleration is terrific on the "Turbo" setting and a dog on regular. Of
course, turbo setting gets less distance on the battery. But after looking at this build, and having some experience now, I know I want a 1000 watt or
more. The EV-12 is the right idea, though I would use NMIH batteries and I've been looking into RC motors too.

Radioactive_Legos says: Jul 8, 2010. 2:39 PM REPLY

Thanks for the comment. We knew going into the build that there were better battery options, but we decided to go with SLA for the price. Even
better would be Lithium Polymer, and the prices are coming down on those so maybe next time we will use them. What do you mean by RC
motors? As in one from an RC car?

astra says: Aug 18, 2010. 5:18 AM REPLY

I have lots of new 12v Lithium batt sets with BMS on board

tinyneutrino says: Jul 8, 2010. 3:45 PM REPLY

The RC motors from large airplanes and trucks, etc. There's a number of websites that have some plans available (don't have them at this
very moment), with hi wattage and torque power, apparently. On my bike I have the original NIMH battery and a 3 month old Lithium Polymer
- which cost about a $1000.00 with the rear rack and a charger included. Its an awesome battery though. Holds a charge well and recharges
quickly. Has a long life. I'm very much wanting to build one like yours. I have a few beach cruisers lying around, and a good friend who's a car
designer and has a full machine shop that likes to mess around too. We've done some Atomic Zombie trikes too.

Radioactive_Legos says: Jul 8, 2010. 5:38 PM REPLY

Hmm, interesting. I am into RC cars/trucks so I know a bit about them. I have a 1/10th scale truck that has a brushless motor (outputting
something like 700 watts) and a 2-cell 7.4V Lithium Polymer Battery. Some larger brushless truck motors have power in the 4kW range
(about 5hp), so I can imagine that a large scale airplane motor could have more...

tinyneutrino says: Jul 9, 2010. 11:18 AM REPLY

So I've heard. I'm going to try a build with those in the near future. I also understand that the RC motors can be had at a reduced price
over similar other makes. I don't know about that, seems RC motors are specialized and would cost more. But they're supposedly very
reliable and long lasting. Myself, I truly would like a 1.5 - 2hp with batteries for a good 80 miles - no pedals. I love my my Tidal Wave,
but sure would like to go faster.

mabyu says: Jun 15, 2010. 7:37 AM REPLY

sorry i mean this one... http://cgi.ebay.com/1-2-HP-48V-DC-ELECTRIC-SCOOTER-BATTLE-BOT-TOOL-MOTOR-
/230465215912?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a8cc1da8 what gear ratio would you use? if it does work.

Radioactive_Legos says: Jun 15, 2010. 2:57 PM REPLY

I wouldn't use that motor for an electric bike. It's only about 400 watts, which is just enough to move a scooter past 15mph.

mabyu says: Jun 15, 2010. 3:23 PM REPLY

how much watts should it have?

tinyneutrino says: Jul 9, 2010. 11:23 AM REPLY

Don't settle for anything less than 750watts. And more if you can afford it. If you're building it yourself, go higher. Invest in batteries. When
using pedals and electric power, with two batteries, I can get 60-80 miles range with my M-750. Just on electric alone, I can stretch it to
35-40 miles on low power. On turbo (high power), electric alone, I get about 20-25 miles range. I'm located in Tempe Arizona, so when its
hot out (ha ha), the batteries can act nasty and get really hot. So I'm careful about switching batteries, stopping regularly to let them cool
down, etc.

2 stroke says: Sep 20, 2010. 5:20 PM REPLY

get a chainsaw engine thats what i did but the bike motor bounts and the pivot bent so im going to start the mounts over again lol

Radioactive_Legos says: Jun 15, 2010. 3:26 PM REPLY

Our bike has upwards of 10kW, but something above 1kW should get you moving. I don't know for sure, though, because my points of
reference are this bike and my 500W electric scooter that has horrible acceleration and tops out at around 20mph.

mabyu says: Jun 15, 2010. 7:42 AM REPLY

and what controller? sorry I'm commenting so much.

IX Smith XI says: Dec 17, 2010. 9:47 PM REPLY

How well doses the bike go up hill?

http://www.instructables.com/id/48V-Electric-Flat-Tracker/
 freak1693 says: Dec 9, 2010. 3:13 AM REPLY
how far did it can go.....i think to build one from my old bicycle...

lewisz says: Aug 28, 2010. 7:32 PM REPLY

has there been any developments in batteries that mean i could go 30km+ on mine?

The Cloak says: Aug 18, 2010. 12:38 PM REPLY

This might sound kind of weird, but how exactly do you charge the batteries, do you take them out and charge them one by one or what?

phephq says: Aug 9, 2010. 6:38 PM REPLY

how fr can one charge get you? I just bought the same motor a couple days ago. I was wondering whether or not to invest in larger batteries for more range (
I live a few miles away from anything ) also - do you think 36v would be sufficient?

iloveairsoftstuff says: Aug 2, 2010. 1:30 PM REPLY

i noticed that this bike and many others like it use a direct drive and do not use a jackshaft. what is the approximate horsepower and rpm of your motor. i was
originaly going to build a gas bike but the motor hates me, so i decided to go electric. i have a 24v powerchair motor that is very powerfull and gets good
rpm's, but i was planning on using a jackshaft to get more tourque. is this nessasary with an electric motor?

Wesley666 says: Jul 18, 2010. 4:40 PM REPLY

I was thinking of doing this with a 4hp gas engine and I remembered seeing this 'Ible awhile back. Could come in handy. Would like to get opinions on how
well mounting a 4hp Kohler to a Bike would work. Thanks and nice 'Ible! :D

ailgup says: Jul 25, 2010. 2:05 PM REPLY

there are really two ways to mount a motor in between the frame as seen here, and then attached using a chain to the rear wheel. You can also (if the
motor is too wide or big to fit between the frame on the rear where a rack would go. There you can either use a chain to connect the motor to the wheel
or what many people do is add a roller wheel that is in direct contact with the wheel and spins it. This method is probably easier but is slightly less
efficient. If you add a motor something that many people often overlook is a clutch. when you get a non electric (motorized) bike up to around 30 mph
(yes they can defiantly reach that speed) even with a kill switch the motor will still be turning over and cause a difficulty stopping quickly. I myself wanted
to do this and found it much easier to buy a kit which included a everything for about $150 it mounted easily and I am still using it with over 400 miles on
it. If you want to mount that motor good luck! but 4hp is often rather strong and may not be road legal in some states (not saying you want to ride it on the
road, but some people myself included do) Whatever you decide to do have fun and keep us informed.

Wesley666 says: Jul 25, 2010. 6:42 PM REPLY

Yes, I already have a clutch for it, luckily, I am not a mechanical noob so this should be a smooth build. I live in Canada so everything motorized is
legal (According to me, and I am the only one that matters). However, I can see it not being street legal. Anything over 50cc technically has to be
registered and insured (mine is like 180cc), but building something, you would have to get someone to do a complete inspection of it and that's a
huge pain. I was planning on using it as a regular bike, just you don't have to pedal, so bike paths, sidewalks, maybe some back streets, but nothing
major, so I doubt it would be much of a problem. It is small enough that it could be mounted in the frame like this 'Ible, but it is heavy. I have alot of
scrap metal around, and was thinking of just getting a bike from the dump about a kilometer down the road and using it as a template to make my
own sturdier frame. This way I could make a stronger frame and could build everything to fit more snugly, while still making sure I would have enough
room to mount everything. I am not sure what ratio to use for the sprocket yet. It would be nice if it had reasonable acceleration and hill climbing
ability while still having a good top end. Any thoughts for what ratio I should use? I was thinking of using the fairly standard, 11:40 ratio for a go-kart,
but with a large tire, around 24 inches (60cm) it would have a top speed of 117km/h at 3600 rpm. Even with the high end of go-kart ranges of 10:60,
at 3600 rpm, it would do 71km/h, which I have done on a pedal bike before, but it is incredibly unnerving, and I still have my doubts on its
acceleration then. A 10 tooth clutch is the smallest they have, and I think 60 is, or close, to the largest, so there isn't alot of wiggle room. I also would
really like to not have to put a custom gear box reducer on, or more then one chain, so any thoughts? If it accelerates good, then I have no problem
with 10:60, I just wouldn't have to take it up to 3600rpm ever, which might reduce engine wear a bit. I was also thinking if the bike chain would handle
that much power. I may need to get a clutch with a bigger sprocket and a small motorbike wheel.

ailgup says: Jul 26, 2010. 5:21 AM REPLY

I wish i lived in canada where anything goes, here the laws say i need to do all these things to make mine legal ugh. Anyways about your
questions my motor tops out arround 6000rpm but has only 3.5hp . The gear ratio for me is a 5 tooth sprocket to a 44 tooth sprocket. Since you
have a different engine you will probably want to change it. On my bike this motor gear is mounted on the other side of the bike than the regular
rear gears, this allows it to still work as a bike. I also use a #415 heavy duty chain. This can handle the increased power. Hope this helps. Chris

Wesley666 says: Jul 26, 2010. 4:17 PM REPLY

Ah, thanks, that does help alot! Also, no, you don't want to live in Canada. Every year for about a month, it gets warm enough that our Igloos
melt and everyone is homeless. Sometimes a Tim Horton's closes, and there is the odd Grand Theft Polar Bear. Oh, it is hard in Canada! ;)

Sokolwar34 says: Jul 5, 2010. 5:29 PM REPLY

That's so cool! My cousin did something like that with his Schwinn mountain bike. It goes about 27 mph and sounds great but there is some problems with
his muffler and leaking or something...But it's still cool!

http://www.instructables.com/id/48V-Electric-Flat-Tracker/
 nepheron says: Jul 5, 2010. 5:34 PM REPLY
Uh, sokol, his bike is electric and my bike is gas.. -the cousin

Sokolwar34 says: Jul 6, 2010. 8:38 AM REPLY

oh, haha...

oud25 says: Jul 4, 2010. 5:14 PM REPLY

u need to chop the front and make it into a chopper hahaha

max0506 says: Jul 1, 2010. 6:11 AM REPLY

speed?

view all 298 comments

http://www.instructables.com/id/48V-Electric-Flat-Tracker/