BGMEA University of Fashion &

Technology

Course Code: TEX2203

Course Title: Testing of Textile

Presentation on Spirality
Submitted To:
Ms. Sumi Akter
Lecturer

Submitted By:
Md. Atikur Rahman
181-087-101
 Spirality
Fabric Spirality tester is a equipment for dimensional distortion in circular plain knitted
fabrics. This In House Test Method describes the method of test in order to determine
the spirality test method which occurs in a material resulting from laundering
procedures.

SCOPE
To determine whether weft knitted garments will twist or distort after being subjected to the relevant
washing cycle. This test can be carried out on both fabric and garment.

Similar Equipment
 Automatic Washing Machine
 Calibrated Tape or Ruler
 Conditioning/Drying Racks.
 Automatic Tumble Drier
 Make-weight 100% Polyester.
 Over-lock Sewing Machine.
 Conditioning of Spirality Tester
The test specimens are to be conditioned in the standard atmosphere of 65% Relative
Humidity (RH) +/- 2% and 20°C +/- 2°C for a minimum of 4 hours. Preparation of Test
Specimens/Materials

Fabric Spirality
 Fold the fabric along a Wale line.
 Place the marking template on the fabric parallel to the wales and drawn round.
 Cut out the double thickness specimen accurately g the knitted wale lines and cut at
right angles to these to produce a “bag” square.
 Note: The second cuts are not necessarily parallel to the knitted courses.
 Sew the two pieces of fabric together to form an open ended bag i.e. similar to a
garment. Overlock the single edges of the fabric to prevent unravelling.

Garment:
 Test the garment in its finished state.
 Record whether any spirality test method is present in the garment prior to washing.
 Measure original length and width dimensions.
 Note: It is recommended that garments that already exhibit Spirality are not tested
because deceptive results will be produced.
Test Procedure
Carry out Washing/Drying procedure as agreed, or specified

Results of Spirality Test Method

 After conditioning, lay the specimen on a flat smooth surface so that the natural fold in
the washed specimen is flat and free from wrinkles.
 Measure the distance “d” to nearest 1mm from the natural dried fold of the fabric
square to the inner edge of the seam (see diagram). Repeat on the other edge by
gently lifting back the opposite edge to the seam.
 On garments these measurements are made at the hem.
 Measure the length and width dimensions in order to determine the dimensional
change.
Reporting Of Results
Determine the average of the two measurements (in cms), call this “D”.

Calculate the %Spirality

i.e. “D” x 100

Where

L = Length of test Specimen (Fabric)

Or = Underarm to hem (Garment) (After Washing).

Effect of Yarn Twist On Spirality of A Fabric.

Finished fabric spirality may vary depending upon yarn twist.

Generally high twisted yarn may cause high spiraled of fabric and vise versa.

We know that,

TPI=TM*(Yarn Count) 1/2

Say for example 30 count yarn:

TPI= 3.5*(30)1/2

= 19.17

For Knit fabric yarn Lowest TM is 3.5 and the Highest TM is 3.7
For Viscose yarn TM is 3.5 because viscose is long staple fiber (near about 38 mm
long, where as cotton is near about 28.5 mm long)

For woven fabric yarn, TM is given to 4.5 because woven fabric yarn needs more
strength.

Skewness / Spirality Test Method

Parameter Description

To determine the Skewness/ Spirality /Torque of fabric Or

Scope
Garment after repeated home laundering procedure

Precondition 2Hrs ( Temperature Below 50°C, 5%-25% RH)

4Hrs (Temperature 21°C ± 1° C, Relative humidity 65% ±

Condition
4%

spirality test method Method 1= (38×38cm)(Length &

Specimen Size Width)
AATCC 179
spirality test method Method 2 = (38×66cm) )(Length &
Width)

Procedure A = (38×38cm)(Length & Width)Diagonal

Specimen Size Marking Method
ISO 16322-2
Procedure B = (38×66cm) Inverted Marking Method

580 ×510 mm , Mock Garment Marking Method

Specimen Size Procedure A = Within Garment Panel (Inverted Marking

ISO 16322-3 Method)

Procedure = B Garment Side Panel

Marking Procedure Method 1 = Tow Pair’s of 250mm Benchmark Length &

AATCC 179 Width To Make a Squire Box (See Fig.)

Method 2 = Inverted Marking Method ( See Fig.)

Procedure A = Tow Pair’s of 250mm Benchmark Length &

Marking Procedure Width To Make a Squire Box (See Fig.)

Procedure B = Inverted Marking Method ( See Fig.)

ISO 16322-2
Mock Garment Marking Method Face Side Together
Length =580mm Width=510mm, Sew 12 mm from edge
 Tow Length and one Width wise .Turn Inside Out for
making a Garment Mock.( See Fig.)

Marking Procedure Procedure A = Within Garment Panel (Inverted Marking

ISO 16322-3 Method) See Fig.)

Procedure B = Garment Side Panel ( See Fig.)

Over Lock All Edges For Preventing Fray Effect

Sewing & Note Note Down Washing & Drying Condition & BGDT No.)