09 - Chapter 4

46
CHAPTER 4
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
4.1 INTRODUCTION
The present chapter contains the major results attained in each

studies of the research work followed by general discussion. In general the
common studies made for each dyeing combinations are FTIR analysis for
each dye extract, color fastness (light, wash and crocking) properties,
antimicrobial assessment and K/S color strength evaluation. Standardised
AATCC method was used to analyze the color fastness properties regarding
light, wash and crocking AATCC 135-1985, 16-1998 (2003). Further, color
measurements for K/S analysis and antimicrobial properties were also tested
in AATCC method AATCC 61-1996, 147-1998 (2003). The chapter is
broadly classified into three main divisions.
The first division discusses the results obtained from the studies on
the characteristic improvement properties on natural dyed cotton fabric. This
main division is further classified into six subdivisions that contain the studies
of six major dyes (Bv, Bo, Tc, Pg, Al and Cp) and its combinations for shade
variation and functional effect on cotton fabric.
The second division discusses the results obtained from the studies
on the characteristic improvement properties on natural dyed silk fabric. This
variation and functional effect on silk fabric.
47
The third division discusses the results obtained from the studies on
the characteristic improvement properties on natural dyed wool fabric. This
variation and functional effect on wool fabric.
4.2 STUDY ON THE CHARACTERISTIC IMPROVEMENT

PROPERTY OF NATURAL DYED COTTON FABRIC
The major natural dyes Bv, Bo, Tc, Pg, Al and Cp combinations
with other natural dyes If, Rc and Pp for shade variation, and combinations
with Vn, Eo, Ab and Ai to impart functional variation (antimicrobial
property) on cotton fabric are discussed in this division. The studies contain
FTIR analysis for the dye extract, color fastness properties (light, wash and
crocking), antimicrobial assessment and K/S evaluation for all the six major
dyes and their combination on natural dyed cotton fabric.
4.2.1 Berberis Vulgaris (Bv) and its Combination on Cotton Fabric

for Shade Variation and Functional Effect
The results obtained from the application method of berberis

vulgaris on cotton fabric in the intact form and in combination with other
natural ingredients are shown in Table 4.1. Based on the various trials, the
best obtained results are only presented in this table with respect to the
corresponding concentration of dyeing assistants, temperature, time, pH and
the type of mordanting technique. The basic color obtained on cotton fabric
using berberis vulgaris is yellow. There are various colors obtained (green,
red, orange) with different hues when berberis vulgaris is mixed with one or
more other natural ingredient.
48
Table 4.1 Application method of berberis vulgaris (Bv) and its

combination on cotton fabric
S. Dye Assistants (% owm)

Natural dye Temp Time Color
No. Sodium Sodium Potash
application (C) (min) obtained
chloride carbonate alum
1 Bv - - - - 1 Pr 60 30 yellow
2 Bv +If - - - - 1 Pr +32 60 Green
3 Bv +Rc - - - - 1 Pr +60 60 Red
4 Bv +Pp - - - - 1 Pr +70 60 Orange
5 Bv +Rc+If - - - - 1 Pr +60 90 Red
6 Bv +Pp+If - - - - 1 Pr +70 90 Red
7 Bv + (Rc+Pp) - - - - 1 Pr +70 60 Reddish green
8 Bv +Vn 1 Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +45 60 yellow
9 Bv +Vn+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +45 90 Red
10 Bv +Rc+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +60 90 Orange
11 Bv +Pp+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +60 90 Orange
12 Bv+(Rc+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +70 90 Red
13 Bv+(Pp+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +70 90 Red
14 Bv+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
15 Bv +Eo 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr 60 60 yellow
16 Bv +Eo+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 - +32 60 Red
17 Bv +Rc+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +60 60 Red
18 Bv +Pp+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Orange
19 Bv +(Rc+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +60 90 Red
20 Bv +(Pp+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Red
21 Bv +(Rc+Pp)+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
22 Bv +Ab 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr 70 60 yellow
23 Bv +Ab+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 - +32 90 Red
24 Bv +Rc+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +60 90 Red
25 Bv +Pp+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Orange
26 Bv +(Rc+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +60 90 Red
27 Bv +(Pp+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Red
28 Bv +(Rc+Pp)+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
29 Bv +Ai 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr 60 60 yellow
30 Bv +Ai+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 - +32 60 Red
31 Bv +Rc+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +60 60 Red
32 Bv +Pp+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 60 Orange
33 Bv +(Rc+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +60 90 Red
34 Bv +(Pp+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Red
35 Bv +(Rc+Pp)+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
49
Sodium chloride, sodium carbonate and potash alum are used as

dye assistants. The maximum usage of these dye assistants is set as 2.5%
owm. Dyeing assistants sodium chloride, sodium carbonate and potash alum
are used in natural dyeing with Vn combination and the concentration of these
are 1%, 0.5% and 1.5% respectively. 0.5% and 1.5% of sodium chloride and
potash alum is used for the combination of dyeing with Eo, Ab and Ai. The
temperature was maintained at 60° for berberis vulgaris dye alone, and for the
combination dyeing the temperature is varied from low (32° C) to high (70°
C) level based on the trials to get good dyeing. The duration of the natural
dyeing is 30 minutes for the berberis vulgaris dye alone whereas the duration
increases there afterwards upto 90 minutes as per trials based on the
combination for good results.
4.2.1.1 FTIR analysis of berberis vulgaris dye extract
The FTIR spectrum of berberis vulgaris natural dye extract is

shown in Figure 4.1. The natural dye berberis vulgaris shows the presence of
important groups, such as hydroxyl group OH (3500), carbonyl group C=O
(1700) and ether group C-O-C (800). The presence of these groups indicate
that berberis vulgaris contains chromophores (color giving groups), and
auxochromes (color retaining groups) responsible for good dyeing on cotton
fabric.
50
90
860.19
877.55
802.33
1934.47
1980.76
3975.02
892.98
2034.76
2054.05
765.69
2090.69
2345.28
2108.05
2146.62
2138.91
2125.41
2212.20
2194.84
2179.41
2162.05
2262.35
2248.84
2231.49
%T
2279.70
3726.22
2383.85
3770.58
437.81
3903.65
503.39
694.33
451.31
466.74
80
526.53
3689.57
557.39
663.47
592.11
538.10
640.32
3853.51
619.11
70
1718.46
1313.43
1508.23
3004.89
1269.07
1244.00
1157.21
3072.39
1400.22
1375.15
60 3109.04
1089.71
1569.95
1108.99
1610.45
1049.20
1033.77
1020.27
1577.66
3228.62
3265.26
3284.55
3299.98
3404.13
2852.52
50
3384.84
1627.81
3328.91
40
2923.88
30
20
4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1750 1500 1250 1000 750 500
Figure 4.1- FTIR spectrum of berberis vulgaris dye extract
4.2.1.2 Color fastness property of Bv dyed cotton fabric
The results of the fastness properties towards light, washing and

crocking (rubbing) on the natural dyed cotton fabric is given in Table 4.2.
There is moderate light fastness exhibited by the Bv combination dyed fabric.
The average light fastness is around 3. In washing fastness, both the color
change and stain properties are found to be good with an average value of 3-4.
The crocking fastness of the natural dyed cotton fabric is also good, and the
dry state of the dyed fabric shows good property than in the wet condition. In
both the condition there is not much difference in the color change and color
staining property.
51
Table 4.2 Color fastness ratings of berberis vulgaris (Bv) combination

on cotton fabric
Crocking fastness
S. Natural dye Light Washing Fastness
Wet Dry
No. application Fastness
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Bv 3 4 3 2-3 3 3 3-4
2 Bv+If 3 3 4 3 2 3 4
3 Bv +Rc 3 3-4 3-4 2 2 4 3
4 Bv +Pp 4 4 4 3 2 3 3
5 Bv +If+Rc 3 4 3 2-3 3 4 3
6 Bv +If+Pp 3-4 3-4 3 3 3 3 3
7 Bv +Rc+Pp 4 3 3 3 2 4 3-4
8 Bv +Vn 3 3 4 2 2-3 3 4
9 Bv +If+Vn 3 3 3 3 2 4 3
10 Bv +Rc+Vn 4 4 3 2-3 3 3-4 3
11 Bv +Pp+Vn 3-4 3 4 2-3 3 3 3
12 Bv +If+Rc+Vn 4 3-4 4 2 2-3 4 4
13 Bv +If+Pp+Vn 3 3 4 3 2 3 3-4
14 Bv +Rc+Pp+Vn 4 3 4 2-3 3 3 3
15 Bv +Eo 3 3 4 2 3 3-4 3
16 Bv +If+Eo 4 3 3 3 2 3 4
17 Bv +Rc+Eo 3 4 4 2 3 3 3
18 Bv +Pp+Eo 3-4 3 4 3 3 3-4 3
19 Bv +If+Rc+Eo 4 3 3-4 2 3 3 3-4
20 Bv +If+Pp+Eo 3 4 3 3 2-3 3 3
21 Bv +Rc+Pp+Eo 3 3-4 3 2-3 3 4 4
22 Bv +Ab 4 3 3-4 2 3 3-4 3
23 Bv +If+Ab 3 4 4 2 2 3 3
24 Bv +Rc+Ab 3 3-4 4 2 3 3 4
25 Bv +Pp+Ab 4 3-4 4 2 3 3 3
26 Bv +If+Rc+Ab 3 4 3 3 2 3 4
27 Bv +If+Pp+Ab 3 4 3 2 3 3 4
28 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ab 3 3 3-4 2 3 3 4
29 Bv +Ai 3-4 4 4 2 2-3 3 3
30 Bv +If+Ai 3 3 4 2 2 4 4
31 Bv +Rc+Ai 3 4 3 3 2 3 3-4
32 Bv +Pp+Ai 3 3-4 4 2-3 3 3 3
33 Bv +If+Rc+Ai 3 4 4 2 2 3-4 3
34 Bv +If+Pp+Ai 3 3 3-4 3 2 3 4
35 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ai 3 4 4 2 3 3-4 4
52
4.2.1.3 Antimicrobial assessment of Bv dyed cotton fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Bv dyed cotton samples are

given in Table 4.3. The bacterial count (Bc) for undyed cotton samples for
gram (+) and gram (-) is 1846 and 1998 respectively. From the number of
bacterial counts recorded for all the dyed samples, it is evident that the dyed
sample has restricted the growth of microbes for about 60% average reduction
rate. It is clear that the reduction rate of S.Aureous (gram +) cultured
microbes are restricted more than the negative cultured microbes E.coli and
the average percentage of reduction rate around 65 % for gram (+) and found
to be effective mostly than the gram (-) culture in reduction rate.
4.2.1.4 K/S analysis of Bv dyed cotton fabric
The K/S values for the Bv natural dyed cotton fabric are given in
Table 4.4. The average data for K/S value is around 12 which are considered
as good color strength value. Standard method of interpretation of data with
respect to sunlight and artificial light was done according to AATCC
procedure. The K/S values were determined from ΔE. The berberis vulgaris
by itself gives good color strength value on cotton fabric and also which is
retained when combined with other natural sources.
53
Table 4.3 Antimicrobial Assessment of Berberis vulgaris (Bv)

combination on Cotton Fabric
S. Natural Dye B.C B.C %R %R

No. Application gram(+)ive gram(- )ive gram(+)ive gram(-)ive
Undyed 1846 1998 - -
1 Bv 650 767 64.78873 61.61161
2 Bv+If 595 756 67.76815 62.16216
3 Bv +Rc 645 757 65.05959 62.11211
4 Bv +Pp 656 776 64.46371 61.16116
5 Bv +If+Rc 596 678 67.71398 66.06607
6 Bv +If+Pp 634 623 65.65547 68.81882
7 Bv +Rc+Pp 594 656 67.82232 67.16717
8 Bv +Vn 665 613 63.97616 69.31932
9 Bv +If+Vn 645 645 65.05959 67.71772
10 Bv +Rc+Vn 597 634 67.6598 68.26827
11 Bv +Pp+Vn 645 795 65.05959 60.21021
12 Bv +If+Rc+Vn 656 746 64.46371 62.66266
13 Bv +If+Pp+Vn 550 756 70.20585 62.16216
14 Bv +Rc+Pp+Vn 686 656 62.83857 67.16717
15 Bv +Eo 656 706 64.46371 64.66466
16 Bv +If+Eo 523 749 71.66847 62.51251
17 Bv +Rc+Eo 643 723 65.16793 63.81381
18 Bv +Pp+Eo 584 630 68.36403 68.46847
19 Bv +If+Rc+Eo 629 714 65.92633 64.26426
20 Bv +If+Pp+Eo 634 745 65.65547 62.71271
21 Bv +Rc+Pp+Eo 568 735 69.23077 63.21321
22 Bv +Ab 656 795 64.46371 60.21021
23 Bv +If+Ab 545 745 70.47671 62.71271
24 Bv +Rc+Ab 606 660 67.17226 66.96697
25 Bv +Pp+Ab 519 789 71.88516 60.51051
26 Bv +If+Rc+Ab 620 756 66.41387 62.16216
27 Bv +If+Pp+Ab 662 745 64.13868 62.71271
28 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ab 534 768 71.07259 61.56156
29 Bv +Ai 697 745 62.24269 62.71271
30 Bv +If+Ai 556 786 69.88082 60.66066
31 Bv +Rc+Ai 656 667 64.46371 66.61662
32 Bv +Pp+Ai 556 756 69.88082 62.16216
33 Bv +If+Rc+Ai 656 645 64.46371 67.71772
34 Bv +If+Pp+Ai 556 768 69.88082 61.56156
35 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ai 668 745 63.81365 62.71271
54
Table 4.4 Colorimetric data of Berberis vulgaris (Bv) combination on

cotton Fabric
Natural Dye
S.No.
Application L* a* b* C h K/S
1 Bv 34.15 -5.65 -16.98 22.54 246.54 12.65
2 Bv+If 36.24 -5.12 -17.65 21.87 259.87 13.98
3 Bv +Rc 31.15 -4.45 -17.41 22.21 248.65 12.74
4 Bv +Pp 34.85 -5.02 -16.52 23.60 254.20 14.12
5 Bv +If+Rc 33.62 -6.36 -17.65 22.32 245.36 12.50
6 Bv +If+Pp 32.36 -5.59 -16.30 21.65 251.54 12.62
7 Bv +Rc+Pp 34.98 -4.87 -16.25 22.40 242.01 12.30
8 Bv +Vn 35.14 -5.45 -16.84 23.16 253.74 13.54
9 Bv +If+Vn 32.50 -4.62 -17.87 22.32 250.80 12.87
10 Bv +Rc+Vn 35.05 -4.65 -16.54 21.50 255.54 13.45
11 Bv +Pp+Vn 34.85 -5.12 -17.95 22.12 258.62 14.95
12 Bv +If+Rc+Vn 33.65 -5.54 -16.60 23.62 247.03 12.62
13 Bv +If+Pp+Vn 32.41 -5.85 -17.32 22.08 250.65 13.03
14 Bv +Rc+Pp+Vn 35.78 -6.95 -16.51 22.95 246.98 12.54
15 Bv +Eo 36.95 -5.35 -16.41 23.30 255.74 14.51
16 Bv +If+Eo 32.62 -6.62 -16.20 22.41 244.01 11.20
17 Bv +Rc+Eo 34.04 -5.14 -17.25 21.02 240.32 12.36
18 Bv +Pp+Eo 34.75 -4.74 -16.98 22.58 241.65 13.98
19 Bv +If+Rc+Eo 35.60 -6.84 -17.65 23.74 247.98 14.74
20 Bv +If+Pp+Eo 36.35 -6.52 -16.32 22.62 258.70 11.54
21 Bv +Rc+Pp+Eo 32.84 -5.65 -17.65 21.30 249.41 12.20
22 Bv +Ab 33.01 -4.32 -17.98 22.58 255.32 13.14
23 Bv +If+Ab 35.74 -5.69 -17.56 22.45 244.32 12.51
24 Bv +Rc+Ab 32.95 -6.87 -16.54 23.62 240.65 14.03
25 Bv +Pp+Ab 34.03 -5.05 -17.65 22.04 252.94 12.65
26 Bv +If+Rc+Ab 35.65 -5.65 -16.98 21.65 254.70 13.60
27 Bv +If+Pp+Ab 34.02 -5.98 -17.41 22.32 255.54 13.35
28 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ab 36.95 -5.80 -16.54 23.65 251.20 13.84
29 Bv +Ai 34.74 -6.65 -17.62 22.32 240.65 12.65
30 Bv +If+Ai 32.23 -6.32 -16.30 21.64 253.32 14.98
31 Bv +Rc+Ai 35.14 -5.41 -17.54 22.81 246.32 12.65
32 Bv +Pp+Ai 34.45 -5.30 -16.65 22.65 259.40 12.74
33 Bv +If+Rc+Ai 32.85 -6.41 -16.98 22.32 248.12 13.01
34 Bv +If+Pp+Ai 35.74 -5.85 -17.74 22.30 257.54 14.25
35 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ai 34.01 -4.62 -16.02 23.65 244.80 12.65
55
4.2.2 Bixa Orellana (Bo) and its Combination on Cotton Fabric for
Shade Variation and Functional Effect
The results obtained from the application method of bixa orellana

on cotton fabric in the intact form and in combination with other natural
ingredients are shown in Table 4.5. Based on the various trials, the best
obtained results are only presented in this table with respect to the
corresponding concentration of dyeing assistants, temperature, time, and the
type of mordanting technique. The basic color obtained on cotton fabric using
bixa orellana is orange. There are various colors obtained with different hues
when the basic dye is mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.
Dyeing assistants sodium chloride, sodium carbonate and potash

alum are used in natural dyeing with Eo, Ab and Ai combination and the
concentration of these are 0.5%, 1.5% and 0.5% respectively. Sodium
chloride and sodium carbonate in 0.5% and 2% were used to Vn combination
and 1.5% of sodium carbonate was used to Bo dye and its first level of
combination with If, Rc and Pp. The temperature maintained was 60° for bixa
orellana dye alone, and for the combination dyeing the temperature was
varied for good dyeing. The duration of the natural dyeing is 30 minutes for
bixa orellana dye alone and the duration increased there afterwards upto
90 minutes based on the combination and results needed.
56
Table 4.5 Application method of bixa orellana (Bo) and its combination
on cotton fabric

Natural Dye Temp Time Color
Application (C) (min) obtained
1 Bo - - 1.5 Pr - - 60 30 Orange
2 Bo +If - - 1.5 Pr - - +32 60 Green
3 Bo +Rc - - 1.5 Pr - - +60 60 Reddish orange
4 Bo +Pp - - 1.5 Pr - - +70 60 Red
5 Bo +Rc+If - - 1.5 Pr - - +60 90 Reddish orange
6 Bo +Pp+If - - 1.5 Pr - - +70 90 Reddish orange
7 Bo + (Rc+Pp) - - 1.5 Pr - - +70 60 Reddish green
8 Bo +Vn 0.5 Pr,Po 2 Pr - - +45 60 Red
9 Bo +Vn+If 0.5 Pr,Po 2 Pr - - +45 90 Reddish orange
10 Bo +Rc+Vn 0.5 Pr,Po 2 Pr - - +60 90 Red
11 Bo +Pp+Vn 0.5 Pr,Po 2 Pr - - +60 90 Red
12 Bo+(Rc+Vn)+If 0.5 Pr,Po 2 Pr - - +70 90 Reddish orange
13 Bo+(Pp+Vn)+If 0.5 Pr,Po 2 Pr - - +70 90 Reddish orange
14 Bo+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 0.5 Pr,Po 2 Pr - - +70 90 Reddish green
15 Bo +Eo 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr 60 60 Red
16 Bo +Eo+If 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +32 60 Reddish orange
17 Bo +Rc+Eo 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +60 60 Reddish orange
18 Bo +Pp+Eo 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
19 Bo +(Rc+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish orange
20 Bo +(Pp+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish orange
21 Bo +(Rc+Pp)+Eo 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
22 Bo +Ab 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr 70 60 Red
23 Bo +Ab+If 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +32 90 Reddish orange
24 Bo +Rc+Ab 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish orange
25 Bo +Pp+Ab 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
26 Bo +(Rc+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish orange
27 Bo +(Pp+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish orange
28 Bo +(Rc+Pp)+Ab 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
29 Bo +Ai 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr 60 60 Red
30 Bo +Ai+If 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +32 60 Reddish orange
31 Bo +Rc+Ai 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +60 60 Reddish orange
32 Bo +Pp+Ai 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +70 60 Red
33 Bo +(Rc+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish orange
34 Bo +(Pp+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish orange
35 Bo +(Rc+Pp)+Ai 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
57
4.2.2.1 FTIR analysis of bixa orellana dye extract
FTIR spectrum of bixa orellana dye extract is shown in Figure 4.2.

From the given spectrum, it is seen that bixa orellana contains hydroxyl group
OH (3500), amine group NH (2000), carbonyl group C=O (1700), and alkyl
group CH (3000). The presence of these groups indicate that the dye sample
contains chromophores (color giving groups), and auxochromes (color
retaining groups) responsible for good coloring characteristics on cotton fabric.
860.19
90
892.98
2345.28
1934.47
1982.69
2036.69
2077.19
2057.90
2115.77
2090.69
2146.62
2127.34
2216.06
2198.70
2163.98
2237.27
2181.34
2252.70
2279.70
%T
2383.85
451.31
2399.28
781.12
2420.50
2435.93
2455.21
700.11
503.39
2491.86
464.81
2507.29
2528.50
555.46
570.89
536.17
2547.79
659.61
518.82
3770.58
3726.22
592.11
82.5
3903.65
3838.08
619.11
2732.94
3710.79
3735.86
3689.57
2785.02
1205.43
1226.64
1259.43
1244.00
3853.51
75
1317.29
3004.89
1382.87
1400.22
3072.39
1024.13
3093.61
1078.13
1047.27
3109.04
67.5
1101.28
1112.85
3124.47
2852.52
3147.61
3186.18
1610.45
3215.11
3228.62
3244.05
3263.33
3284.55
3299.98
60
3334.69
2923.88
52.5
45
4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1750 1500 1250 1000 750 500
Dye 2 1/cm
Figure 4.2 FTIR spectrum of bixaorellna dye extract
4.2.2.2 Color fastness property of Bo dyed cotton fabric

crocking (rubbing) on the natural dyed cotton fabric are shown in Table 4.6.
All the fastness properties recorded an average values between 2 and 3-4
which is the tolerable range. The average light fastness of Bo dyed cotton
fabric is around 3. In washing fastness, the average color change and color
stain values are between the average range of 3 and 3-4 which is of moderate
to good range. The crocking fastness of the cotton fabric dyed with different
natural sources is also good and the dry state of the dyed fabric shows good
property than in the wet condition. There is no much difference between the
58
crocking fastness values obtained for color change and color stain
characteristics both in wet and dry conditions.
Table 4.6 Color fastness ratings of bixa orellana (Bo) combination on

cotton fabric
Washing Crocking Fastness

S. Natural dye Light
Fastness Wet Dry
No. application Fastness
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Bo 4 3 3 2 2 3-4 3
2 Bo +If 3 3 4 2 2 3 3
3 Bo +Rc 3 3-4 4 2 2 4 4
4 Bo +Pp 3-4 4 3 2 2 3 3
5 Bo +If+Rc 3 3 3-4 2 2 4 3-4
6 Bo +If+Pp 3 3 3 2 2-3 4 3
7 Bo +Rc+Pp 4 3 3 2 2 4 4
8 Bo +Vn 3 3 3-4 2 2 4 3
9 Bo +If+Vn 3 4 4 2 2 3 4
10 Bo +Rc+Vn 4 3 3 2 2 3 4
11 Bo +Pp+Vn 3-4 4 3 2 2 3 3-4
12 Bo +If+Rc+Vn 3 4 3 2 2 4 3
13 Bo +If+Pp+Vn 3 3-4 4 2 2-3 4 3
14 Bo +Rc+Pp+Vn 3 3-4 4 2 2 3 4
15 Bo +Eo 4 4 3 2 2 3 3
16 Bo +If+Eo 3 3 4 2 2 4 3-4
17 Bo +Rc+Eo 3 4 3-4 2 2 4 3
18 Bo +Pp+Eo 3-4 4 3 2 2 3 3
19 Bo +If+Rc+Eo 3 3 4 2 2 4 4
20 Bo +If+Pp+Eo 4 3 4 2 2 3 3
21 Bo +Rc+Pp+Eo 3 3 3 2 2 3-4 3
22 Bo +Ab 3 4 3 2 2 3-4 3
23 Bo +If+Ab 3 3-4 4 2 2-3 3 4
24 Bo +Rc+Ab 3 4 3-4 2 2 4 3
25 Bo +Pp+Ab 4 3 4 2 2 4 3-4
26 Bo +If+Rc+Ab 3 4 3 2 2 4 3
27 Bo +If+Pp+Ab 3 3 4 2-3 2 4 3
28 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ab 4 3-4 4 2 2 4 3
29 Bo +Ai 3 3 3 2 2 3-4 4
30 Bo +If+Ai 3 4 3 2 2 3 3
31 Bo +Rc+Ai 3-4 4 3 2 2 3-4 4
32 Bo +Pp+Ai 3 4 3-4 2 2 4 3
33 Bo +If+Rc+Ai 3 3 4 2 2 3 3-4
34 Bo +If+Pp+Ai 4 4 3 2 2 3 3
35 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ai 3 4 3 2-3 2 3 3
59
4.2.2.3 Antimicrobial assessment of Bo dyed cotton fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Bo dyed cotton samples are

given in Table 4.7. The bacterial count (BC) for undyed cotton samples for
gram (+) and gram (-) is 1824 and 1860 respectively. The BC of gram (+) and
gram (-) dyed samples ranges from 500 – 600. The reduction rate of the gram
(-) e.coli culture is more than the reduction rate of gram (+) s.aureous culture.
The reduction rate of microbial attack have recorded 72% for gram (–) culture
and 70% for gram (+) culture. From the table it is evident that Bo samples
when combined with Rc and Pp gave a good microbial attack which ranges
for about 70% and some of the Eo combination samples gave 72% of
reduction rate. Thus it is inferred that Eo extract imparted more of
antimicrobial properties when combined with Bo combination dyes.
4.2.2.4 K/S analysis of Bo dyed cotton fabric
The K/S values for Bo natural dyed cotton fabric are given in Table
4.8. The average data of K/S value for Bo dyed cotton fabric is around 12
which are considered as good color strength value for textile fabric. Some
combinations of natural dyes particularly of Pp give good K/S value of
nearly 14.
60
Table 4.7 Antimicrobial assessment of bixa orellana (Bo) combination

on cotton fabric

Undyed 1824 1860 - -
1 Bo 571 545 68.69518 70.69892
2 Bo +If 595 525 67.37939 71.77419
3 Bo +Rc 545 595 70.12061 68.01075
4 Bo +Pp 515 545 71.76535 70.69892
5 Bo +If+Rc 626 575 65.67982 69.08602
6 Bo +If+Pp 536 665 70.61404 64.24731
7 Bo +Rc+Pp 525 698 71.21711 62.47312
8 Bo +Vn 514 512 71.82018 72.47312
9 Bo +If+Vn 612 625 66.44737 66.39785
10 Bo +Rc+Vn 632 578 65.35088 68.92473
11 Bo +Pp+Vn 558 614 69.40789 66.98925
12 Bo +If+Rc+Vn 545 645 70.12061 65.32258
13 Bo +If+Pp+Vn 656 616 64.03509 66.88172
14 Bo +Rc+Pp+Vn 569 536 68.80482 71.1828
15 Bo +Eo 563 512 69.13377 72.47312
16 Bo +If+Eo 532 595 70.83333 68.01075
17 Bo +Rc+Eo 625 648 65.73465 65.16129
18 Bo +Pp+Eo 515 575 71.76535 69.08602
19 Bo +If+Rc+Eo 532 615 70.83333 66.93548
20 Bo +If+Pp+Eo 545 525 70.12061 71.77419
21 Bo +Rc+Pp+Eo 515 626 71.76535 66.34409
22 Bo +Ab 525 523 71.21711 71.88172
23 Bo +If+Ab 623 695 65.8443 62.63441
24 Bo +Rc+Ab 529 684 70.99781 63.22581
25 Bo +Pp+Ab 535 614 70.66886 66.98925
26 Bo +If+Rc+Ab 695 525 61.89693 71.77419
27 Bo +If+Pp+Ab 545 542 70.12061 70.86022
28 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ab 648 559 64.47368 69.94624
29 Bo +Ai 547 512 70.01096 72.47312
30 Bo +If+Ai 643 645 64.74781 65.32258
31 Bo +Rc+Ai 565 676 69.02412 63.65591
32 Bo +Pp+Ai 532 595 70.83333 68.01075
33 Bo +If+Rc+Ai 615 635 66.28289 65.86022
34 Bo +If+Pp+Ai 648 518 64.47368 72.15054
35 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ai 536 619 70.61404 66.72043
61
Table 4.8 Colorimetric data of bixa orellana (Bo) combination on cotton

fabric
Natural Dye
S.No.
Application L* a* b* c h K/S
1 Bo 34.02 -5.61 -15.95 22.65 246.65 12.65
2 Bo +If 35.01 -5.45 -15.85 22.41 255.98 13.98
3 Bo +Rc 34.45 -5.84 -15.41 22.02 249.76 12.74
4 Bo +Pp 33.85 -6.95 -15.25 23.58 258.43 14.51
5 Bo +If+Rc 32.62 -5.62 -16.62 22.98 247.54 12.20
6 Bo +If+Pp 33.03 -4.03 -15.30 21.72 254.12 14.32
7 Bo +Rc+Pp 34.60 -5.65 -16.40 22.30 241.32 12.65
8 Bo +Vn 35.41 -6.97 -15.59 23.65 240.65 11.80
9 Bo +If+Vn 36.84 -5.80 -16.86 22.84 242.98 12.45
10 Bo +Rc+Vn 35.52 -4.64 -15.65 21.10 255.74 13.65
11 Bo +Pp+Vn 34.66 -5.50 -14.98 22.54 246.01 12.98
12 Bo +If+Rc+Vn 32.20 -6.32 -15.46 23.95 253.23 11.70
13 Bo +If+Pp+Vn 33.41 -6.65 -16.65 22.62 240.03 12.12
14 Bo +Rc+Pp+Vn 34.80 -6.45 -15.65 21.05 252.65 13.54
15 Bo +Eo 35.60 -5.78 -14.65 22.98 244.87 14.60
16 Bo +If+Eo 36.32 -4.95 -15.92 23.62 255.40 11.32
17 Bo +Rc+Eo 35.65 -5.41 -16.45 22.30 248.15 12.65
18 Bo +Pp+Eo 34.98 -4.51 -15.95 21.41 257.65 13.98
19 Bo +If+Rc+Eo 35.74 -5.32 -14.65 23.84 244.26 11.65
20 Bo +If+Pp+Eo 34.01 -5.65 -15.32 22.75 251.32 12.41
21 Bo +Rc+Pp+Eo 35.23 -5.98 -16.19 23.20 245.65 14.58
22 Bo +Ab 33.56 -4.03 -15.23 23.36 250.47 12.20
23 Bo +If+Ab 34.95 -5.65 -15.65 21.51 243.98 11.36
24 Bo +Rc+Ab 34.32 -4.82 -14.92 22.98 256.05 13.51
25 Bo +Pp+Ab 35.01 -4.95 -15.30 23.54 245.62 12.95
26 Bo +If+Rc+Ab 36.45 -5.74 -14.65 22.62 259.32 11.80
27 Bo +If+Pp+Ab 35.76 -6.65 -15.91 21.65 248.41 14.40
28 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ab 34.03 -5.02 -15.45 22.94 257.25 12.15
29 Bo +Ai 33.23 -4.36 -15.62 23.25 254.01 13.62
30 Bo +If+Ai 34.15 -5.32 -15.62 22.30 241.74 12.30
31 Bo +Rc+Ai 35.52 -5.65 -15.62 21.65 252.51 12.68
32 Bo +Pp+Ai 36.02 -5.74 -15.32 22.80 246.32 12.45
33 Bo +If+Rc+Ai 35.45 -4.85 -14.60 23.74 256.55 11.95
34 Bo +If+Pp+Ai 34.85 -5.97 -15.40 22.65 243.98 12.62
35 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ai 33.04 -6.32 -15.56 21.30 255.45 14.32
62
4.2.3 Terminalia Chebula (Tc) and its Combination on Cotton Fabric

The results obtained from the application method of terminalia

chebula on cotton fabric in the intact form and in combination with other
berberis vulgaris is green. There are various colors obtained with different
hues when berberis vulgaris is mixed with one or more other natural
ingredient.

alum with 2%, 0.5% and 0.5% are used in natural dyeing with Vn
combination and dye assistants sodium chloride and potash alum was used for
the dye combinations with Eo, Ab and Ai with concentrations 1% and 0.5%
respectively. The first level of combinations with If, Rc and Pp required the
dye assistants sodium chloride and potash alum with 1% and 0.5%
respectively for best results. The temperature was maintained at 60° for
berberis vulgaris dye alone, and for the combination dyeing the temperature
was varied from low to high level with respect to the best dyeing result. The
duration of the natural dyeing is 30 minutes for the berberis vulgaris dye
alone whereas the duration increases there afterwards based on the
combination and results needed.
63
Table 4.9 Application method of terminalia chebula (Tc) and its


1 Tc 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 30 Green
2 Tc +If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish green
3 Tc +Rc 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Yellow
4 Tc +Pp 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Reddish green
5 Tc +Rc+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Yellow
6 Tc +Pp+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Yellow
7 Tc + (Rc+Pp) 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Bluish green
8 Tc +Vn 2 Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 60 Green
9 Tc +Vn+If 2 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 90 Bluish green
10 Tc +Rc+Vn 2 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish green
11 Tc +Pp+Vn 2 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Yellow
12 Tc+(Rc+Vn)+If 2 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Yellow
13 Tc+(Pp+Vn)+If 2 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Yellow
14 Tc+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 2 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Bluish green le
15 Tc +Eo 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Green
16 Tc +Eo+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish green
17 Tc +Rc+Eo 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Yellow
18 Tc +Pp+Eo 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
19 Tc +(Rc+Eo)+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Yellow
20 Tc +(Pp+Eo)+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Yellow
Tc 1
21 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Bluish green
+(Rc+Pp)+Eo
22 Tc +Ab 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 70 60 Green
23 Tc +Ab+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 90 Bluish green
24 Tc +Rc+Ab 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Yellow
25 Tc +Pp+Ab 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
26 Tc +(Rc+Ab)+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Yellow
27 Tc +(Pp+Ab)+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Yellow
Tc 1
28 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Bluish green
+(Rc+Pp)+Ab
29 Tc +Ai 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Green
30 Tc +Ai+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish green
31 Tc +Rc+Ai 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Yellow
32 Tc +Pp+Ai 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Reddish green
33 Tc +(Rc+Ai)+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Yellow
34 Tc +(Pp+Ai)+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Yellow
35 Tc +(Rc+Pp)+Ai 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Bluish green
64
4.2.3.1 FTIR analysis of terminalia chebula dye extract
FTIR spectrum of terminalia chebula dye extract is shown in

Figure 4.3. The natural dye extract of terminalia chebula shows the presence
of hydroxyl group OH (3500), ether group C-O-C (800) and aromatic ring
chain vibrations C-C (1800). The presence of these groups indicate that
terminalia chebula contains the coloring components required for good dyeing
on cotton fabric.
100
%T
831.26
848.62
867.91
754.12
771.47
90
1934.47
1982.69
2009.69
3990.45
2032.83
2345.28
2042.48
3975.02
2077.19
2065.62
2246.92
2225.70
2208.34
2108.05
2090.69
2281.63
2192.91
2179.41
2162.05
2148.55
2135.05
2119.62
443.60
713.61
696.25
453.24
2401.21
2381.92
2420.50
921.91
943.13
472.53
2488.00
80
568.96
2549.72
582.46
3903.65
520.74
3770.58
617.18
3726.22
549.67
536.17
1209.28
2732.94
3689.57
1244.00
1267.14
1261.36
3853.51
70
1319.22
1386.72
3004.89
1400.22
3072.39
60
1670.24
1610.45
2852.52
1105.14
1018.34
3527.56
50
1051.13
2923.88
3267.19
3284.55
3299.98
3346.27
3361.69
3384.84
40
30
20
4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1750 1500 1250 1000 750 500
Dye 3 1/cm
Figure 4.3 FTIR spectrum of terminalia chebula dye extract
4.2.3.2 Color fastness property of Tc dyed cotton fabric

crocking (rubbing) on Tc natural dyed cotton fabric is given in Table 4.10.
There is a moderate light fastness value exhibited by the terminalia chebula
dyed cotton fabric, and the average value is around 3. The washing fastness in
color change and color stain of natural dyed cotton fabric is between 3 and
3-4. The crocking fastness of the cotton fabric dyed with different natural
sources is also good and the dry state of the dyed fabric shows good value
than in the wet condition. In wet condition, the staining property and color
change shows average effect of 2-3. This reveals that the general fastness
property of terminalia chebula dyed cotton fabric is good.
65
Table 4.10 Color fastness ratings of terminalia chebula (Tc) combination

on cotton fabric
Crocking Fastness
S. Natural Dye Light Washing Fastness
Wet Dry
No. Application Fastness
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Tc 3 3 4 2 3 4 3
2 Tc +If 3 3-4 3 2 3 3 3
3 Tc +Rc 4 3 3 3 2 3 4
4 Tc +Pp 3 3 3-4 3 2 4 4
5 Tc +If+Rc 4 4 3 2 2-3 3 3
6 Tc +If+Pp 3-4 3-4 4 3 2 4 4
7 Tc +Rc+Pp 4 3 3 3 2 4 3
8 Tc +Vn 3 4 4 2 2-3 4 4
9 Tc +If+Vn 3 3 4 2 2 4 3-4
10 Tc +Rc+Vn 3 3 3 3 2-3 3 4
11 Tc +Pp+Vn 3 4 3 2 3 3 4
12 Tc +If+Rc+Vn 4 3 4 3 2 4 3-4
13 Tc +If+Pp+Vn 3 3 3-4 3 2 4 4
14 Tc +Rc+Pp+Vn 3 4 3 3 2 3 3
15 Tc +Eo 4 3 3 3 2-3 3 4
16 Tc +If+Eo 3 4 4 2 2 4 3
17 Tc +Rc+Eo 3 3 3 3 3 3 3-4
18 Tc +Pp+Eo 3-4 3-4 4 2 3 4 3
19 Tc +If+Rc+Eo 3 4 3 2 3 3 4
20 Tc +If+Pp+Eo 4 3 4 3 2-3 3 4
21 Tc +Rc+Pp+Eo 3 4 4 2-3 3 3 3
22 Tc +Ab 3 3-4 3 3 2 3 4
23 Tc +If+Ab 4 4 3 2 3 3 3-4
24 Tc +Rc+Ab 4 3 3 3 2 3 4
25 Tc +Pp+Ab 3 3 3-4 2 2 4 4
26 Tc +If+Rc+Ab 3 4 3 2 3 3-4 3
27 Tc +If+Pp+Ab 3 4 3 3 2 4 4
28 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ab 3 3 3 2 3 3-4 4
29 Tc +Ai 4 3-4 3 3 2 3 4
30 Tc +If+Ai 3-4 4 4 2 2-3 4 3-4
31 Tc +Rc+Ai 3 3 4 2-3 3 3 4
32 Tc +Pp+Ai 3 3 4 2 2 4 3
33 Tc +If+Rc+Ai 3 3 3 3 2 4 4
34 Tc +If+Pp+Ai 4 4 3 2 3 3 3-4
35 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ai 3 3-4 4 2 3 3 3
4.2.3.3 Antimicrobial assessment of Tc dyed cotton fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Tc natural dyed cotton

fabric are given in Table 4.11. The bacterial count (BC) of the undyed cotton
samples for gram (+) and gram (-) culture is 1967 and 2004 respectively. The
Bacterial Counts of dyed Tc combination samples ranges from 650-750 for
66
gram (+) and 750-850 for gram (-) culture. The reduction% of microbial
attack is more in the case of gram (+) culture than gram (-) culture. This
indicates that terminalia chebula when applied on cotton fabric as a natural
dye increases the antimicrobial character, required for the cotton fabrics.
Table 4.11 Antimicrobial assessment of terminalia chebula (Tc)


Undyed 1967 2004 - -
1 Tc 698 745 64.51449 62.82435
2 Tc +If 658 712 66.54804 64.47106
3 Tc +Rc 645 715 67.20895 64.32136
4 Tc +Pp 725 725 63.14184 63.82236
5 Tc +If+Rc 726 824 63.091 58.88224
6 Tc +If+Pp 614 856 68.78495 57.28543
7 Tc +Rc+Pp 698 736 64.51449 63.27345
8 Tc +Vn 745 732 62.12506 63.47305
9 Tc +If+Vn 728 856 62.98932 57.28543
10 Tc +Rc+Vn 761 736 61.31164 63.27345
11 Tc +Pp+Vn 684 832 65.22623 58.48303
12 Tc +If+Rc+Vn 716 765 63.59939 61.82635
13 Tc +If+Pp+Vn 695 825 64.66701 58.83234
14 Tc +Rc+Pp+Vn 645 736 67.20895 63.27345
15 Tc +Eo 618 864 68.5816 56.88623
16 Tc +If+Eo 725 732 63.14184 63.47305
17 Tc +Rc+Eo 735 831 62.63345 58.53293
18 Tc +Pp+Eo 665 861 66.19217 57.03593
19 Tc +If+Rc+Eo 773 845 60.70158 57.83433
20 Tc +If+Pp+Eo 691 712 64.87036 64.47106
21 Tc +Rc+Pp+Eo 759 852 61.41332 57.48503
22 Tc +Ab 664 765 66.24301 61.82635
23 Tc +If+Ab 715 823 63.65023 58.93214
24 Tc +Rc+Ab 645 745 67.20895 62.82435
25 Tc +Pp+Ab 765 815 61.10829 59.33134
26 Tc +If+Rc+Ab 625 725 68.22572 63.82236
27 Tc +If+Pp+Ab 736 736 62.58261 63.27345
28 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ab 798 755 59.4306 62.32535
29 Tc +Ai 736 756 62.58261 62.27545
30 Tc +If+Ai 665 732 66.19217 63.47305
31 Tc +Rc+Ai 625 856 68.22572 57.28543
32 Tc +Pp+Ai 755 712 61.61668 64.47106
33 Tc +If+Rc+Ai 645 831 67.20895 58.53293
34 Tc +If+Pp+Ai 781 765 60.29487 61.82635
35 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ai 629 815 68.02237 59.33134
67
4.2.3.4 K/S analysis of Tc dyed cotton fabric
The K/S values for the Tc natural dyed cotton fabric are given in
Table 4.12. The average data for K/S value is around 13 for the Tc
combination natural dyed cotton fabric. This value facilitates that terminalia
chebula natural dye contains good color strength for good dyeing on cotton
fabric by its own as well as with the combination of other natural sources.
Table 4.12 Colorimetric data of Terminalia chebula (Tc) combination

on cotton Fabric
S. Natural Dye
No. Application L* a* b* C h K/S
1 Tc 34.15 -5.54 -15.84 22.65 246.65 12.65
2 Tc +If 33.50 -5.02 -15.75 23.74 255.74 13.98
3 Tc +Rc 33.65 -4.65 -15.95 22.01 244.01 12.41
4 Tc +Pp 34.32 -4.98 -16.62 21.23 257.22 14.57
5 Tc +If+Rc 35.95 -5.74 -15.30 22.65 249.65 12.20
6 Tc +If+Pp 34.99 -5.02 -16.40 23.98 255.98 12.54
7 Tc +Rc+Pp 25.04 -5.58 -15.58 22.74 264.70 14.10
8 Tc +Vn 25.45 -5.65 -14.95 21.01 261.65 12.65
9 Tc +If+Vn 36.21 -5.94 -15.60 22.25 250.14 13.30
10 Tc +Rc+Vn 26.62 -6.12 -16.45 22.63 242.12 12.58
11 Tc +Pp+Vn 35.30 -5.65 -15.13 22.68 253.02 14.74
12 Tc +If+Rc+Vn 34.65 -4.30 -14.62 23.74 265.32 12.05
13 Tc +If+Pp+Vn 33.98 -6.21 -15.65 23.65 255.65 13.65
14 Tc +Rc+Pp+Vn 33.70 -5.45 -16.98 23.84 248.98 12.98
15 Tc +Eo 26.15 -4.89 -15.76 21.74 259.74 14.46
16 Tc +If+Eo 28.62 -5.65 -14.02 22.15 266.01 11.15
17 Tc +Rc+Eo 33.30 -6.74 -15.56 23.23 253.25 12.65
18 Tc +Pp+Eo 34.25 -5.84 -16.48 22.65 240.65 13.98
19 Tc +If+Rc+Eo 35.48 -4.95 -15.23 21.98 254.32 12.10
20 Tc +If+Pp+Eo 35.96 -5.02 -15.59 22.74 267.65 13.25
21 Tc +Rc+Pp+Eo 36.30 -6.65 -15.14 23.01 255.98 12.65
22 Tc +Ab 29.21 -5.94 -14.48 22.23 248.74 14.98
23 Tc +If+Ab 32.54 -4.87 -15.26 21.98 250.01 12.63
24 Tc +Rc+Ab 33.51 -5.41 -14.35 22.65 252.54 14.30
25 Tc +Pp+Ab 33.32 -5.02 -15.65 23.23 246.32 12.25
26 Tc +If+Rc+Ab 34.41 -5.36 -16.98 22.54 259.68 13.65
27 Tc +If+Pp+Ab 27.51 -6.59 -15.74 21.12 262.44 12.74
28 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ab 28.87 -5.35 -14.01 22.32 254.65 14.12
29 Tc +Ai 33.63 -4.69 -15.20 23.65 240.32 12.65
30 Tc +If+Ai 35.21 -5.87 -15.36 22.98 251.65 12.32
31 Tc +Rc+Ai 33.80 -6.45 -15.59 22.41 265.98 13.98
32 Tc +Pp+Ai 34.61 -5.65 -15.87 21.56 258.74 14.70
33 Tc +If+Rc+Ai 36.40 -5.12 -15.40 22.26 247.01 12.45
34 Tc +If+Pp+Ai 26.50 -5.42 -15.51 23.98 254.25 13.62
35 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ai 35.32 -5.36 -15.65 22.32 256.32 14.30
68
4.2.4 Punica Granatum (Pg) and its Combination on Cotton Fabric

The results obtained from the application method of punica

granatum on cotton fabric in the intact form and in combination with other
punica granatum is brown. There are various colors obtained with different
hues when punica granatum is mixed with one or more other natural
ingredient.

alum are used in natural dyeing with Vn in concentrations 1%, 1% and 0.5%
respectively. Combination of dyeing with Eo, Ab and Ai required 0.5% of
sodium chloride and potash alum separately for best results. The first level of
dyeing combinations with If, Rc and Pp required 0.5% of sodium chloride and
sodium carbonate separately. The temperature was maintained at 60° for
berberis vulgaris dye alone, and for the combination dyeing the temperature
was varied for good dyeing. The duration of the natural dyeing is 30 minutes
for the punica granatum dye alone whereas the duration increased there
afterwards based on the combination and results needed.
69
Table 4.13 Application method of punica granatum (Pg) and its


1 Pg 0.5 Pr 0.5 Pr 60 30 Brown
2 Pg +If 0.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +32 60 purple
3 Pg +Rc 0.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +60 60 Reddish brown
4 Pg +Pp 0.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +70 60 Purple
5 Pg +Rc+If 0.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish brown
6 Pg +Pp+If 0.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish brown
7 Pg + (Rc+Pp) 0.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +70 60 Reddish purple
8 Pg +Vn 1 Po 1 S 0.5 Pr +45 60 Brown
9 Pg +Vn+If 1 Pr,Po 1 S 0.5 Pr +45 90 purple
10 Pg +Rc+Vn 1 Pr,Po 1 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Purple
11 Pg +Pp+Vn 1 Pr,Po 1 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish brown
12 Pg+(Rc+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 1 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish brown
13 Pg+(Pp+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 1 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish brown
14 Pg+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 1 Pr,Po 1 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish purple
15 Pg +Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Brown
16 Pg +Eo+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 purple
17 Pg +Rc+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Reddish green
18 Pg +Pp+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Purple
19 Pg +(Rc+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish brown
20 Pg +(Pp+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish brown
21 Pg +(Rc+Pp)+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish purple
22 Pg +Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 70 60 Brown
23 Pg +Ab+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 90 purple
24 Pg +Rc+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish brown
25 Pg +Pp+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Purple
26 Pg +(Rc+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish brown
27 Pg +(Pp+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish brown
28 Pg +(Rc+Pp)+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish purple
29 Pg +Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Brown
30 Pg +Ai+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 purple
31 Pg +Rc+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Reddish brown
32 Pg +Pp+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Purple
33 Pg +(Rc+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish brown
34 Pg +(Pp+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish brown
35 Pg +(Rc+Pp)+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 purple
70
4.2.4.1 FTIR analysis of punica granatum dye extract
The FTIR spectrum of punica granatum dye extract is shown in

Figure 4.4. The natural dye extract punica granatum shows the presence of
hydroxyl group OH (3500), carbonyl group (2000) and ether group (900). The
presence of these groups indicate that punica granatum contains the necessary
coloring groups needed for dyeing textile fabrics particularly cotton fabric.
90
860.19
877.55
802.33
1934.47
1980.76
3990.45
3975.02
2034.76
892.98
2054.05
765.69
2090.69
2345.28
2108.05
2146.62
2138.91
2125.41
2212.20
2194.84
2179.41
2162.05
%T
2262.35
2248.84
2231.49
2279.70
3726.22
2383.85
3770.58
437.81
3903.65
503.39
694.33
451.31
466.74
80
526.53
3689.57
557.39
663.47
592.11
538.10
640.32
3853.51
619.11
70
1718.46
1313.43
1508.23
3004.89
1269.07
1244.00
1157.21
3072.39
1400.22
1375.15
3109.04
60
1089.71
1569.95
1108.99
1610.45
1049.20
1033.77
1020.27
1577.66
3228.62
3265.26
3284.55
3299.98
3404.13
2852.52
50
3384.84
1627.81
3328.91
40
2923.88
30
20
4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1750 1500 1250 1000 750 500
Figure 4.4 FTIR spectrum of punica granatum dye extract
4.2.4.2 Color fastness property of Pg dyed cotton fabric

crocking (rubbing) on Pg natural dyed cotton fabric are given in Table 4.14.
Light, washing and crocking properties recorded an average of 3-4, 3-4 and 2-
3 respectively. In washing fastness, the values exhibited for color change and
color stain are good due to good dyeing. The wet and dry condition ratings of
crocking fastness recorded the range 2-3 and 3-4. The color change and the
staining property also recorded the average of 2 for wet state and 3-4 for dry
state which is moderate to good. The outcome of general fastness properties
on Pg natural dyed cotton fabric is good.
71
Table 4.14 Color fastness ratings of punica granatum (Pg) combination

on cotton fabric

S. Natural Dye Light
Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Pg 4 4 3 2-3 2 3 3
2 Pg +If 3 4 3 2 2 4 3
3 Pg +Rc 3 3 4 2 2 3 3
4 Pg +Pp 4 3-4 3 2 2 3 4
5 Pg +If+Rc 4 3 4 2 2 3-4 3
6 Pg +If+Pp 3 4 3 2 2 3 4
7 Pg +Rc+Pp 4 3 3 2 2 3 3
8 Pg +Vn 3 3 4 2 2 3 3-4
9 Pg +If+Vn 3 4 3 2-3 2 3 4
10 Pg +Rc+Vn 3-4 4 3 2 2 3-4 3
11 Pg +Pp+Vn 3 3 4 2 2 4 4
12 Pg +If+Rc+Vn 3 3 3 2 2-3 3 3
13 Pg +If+Pp+Vn 4 3 4 2 2 3 4
14 Pg +Rc+Pp+Vn 3 3 3 2 2 3 4
15 Pg +Eo 3 4 3 2 2 3 3
16 Pg +If+Eo 3 4 3-4 2 2 3 4
17 Pg +Rc+Eo 4 3-4 4 2 2 3-4 3
18 Pg +Pp+Eo 3 3 3 2 2 3 4
19 Pg +If+Rc+Eo 3 4 4 2 2 4 3
20 Pg +If+Pp+Eo 4 3 3 2 2 4 3-4
21 Pg +Rc+Pp+Eo 3 4 4 2 2 3 3
22 Pg +Ab 3 3 4 2 2 4 4
23 Pg +If+Ab 3-4 4 3 2 2 3 4
24 Pg +Rc+Ab 3 3 4 2 2 4 3-4
25 Pg +Pp+Ab 4 4 3 2-3 2 4 4
26 Pg +If+Rc+Ab 3 3 4 2 2 4 3
27 Pg +If+Pp+Ab 3 3-4 3 2 2 3 4
28 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ab 4 3 3 2 2 3-4 4
29 Pg +Ai 3 4 4 2 2 4 3
30 Pg +If+Ai 3 3 4 2 2 4 3
31 Pg +Rc+Ai 3 3 3 2 2 4 3-4
32 Pg +Pp+Ai 3-4 4 3 2 2-3 4 3
33 Pg +If+Rc+Ai 4 4 4 2 2 3 3
34 Pg +If+Pp+Ai 3 4 3-4 2 2 4 4
35 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ai 3 3 3 2 2 3 3
72
4.2.4.3 Antimicrobial assessment of Pg dyed cotton fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Pg natural dyed cotton

samples are given in Table 4.15. The bacterial count for undyed cotton
samples are 1896 and 1987 for gram (+) and gram (-) culture respectively.
The bacterial counts of Pg dyed cotton samples range from 550-700 for gram
(+) culture and 650-750 for gram (-) culture. From this it is evident that the
microbial attack of gram(-) culture is more in Pg dyed samples than gram(+)
culture and thus the reduction% of gram(+) is more than the gram(-). The
reduction rate is considerably more for gram (+) in some of the Pp
combination and the average reduction% of Pg combination dyed samples is
also 70%. The average reduction% for gram (-) culture is 65%. The overall
behaviour of Pg natural dye on cotton fabric by its own and with other natural
source combination for the antimicrobial characteristics is good.
4.2.4.4 K/S analysis of Pg dyed cotton fabric
The K/S values for Pg natural dyed cotton fabric are given in Table
16. The average data for K/S value is around 12 which are considered as good
color strength value. This good value of color strength given by Pg and its
combination on cotton fabric would be considered as better dyeing
characteristics.
73
Table 4.15 Antimicrobial assessment of punica granatum (Pg)


Undyed 1896 1987 - -
1 Pg 558 646 70.56962 67.48868
2 Pg +If 545 658 71.25527 66.88475
3 Pg +Rc 512 612 72.99578 69.1998
4 Pg +Pp 525 692 72.31013 65.17363
5 Pg +If+Rc 623 761 67.14135 61.70106
6 Pg +If+Pp 635 795 66.50844 59.98993
7 Pg +Rc+Pp 562 645 70.35865 67.539
8 Pg +Vn 565 713 70.20042 64.11676
9 Pg +If+Vn 692 695 63.50211 65.02265
10 Pg +Rc+Vn 558 761 70.56962 61.70106
11 Pg +Pp+Vn 645 634 65.98101 68.0926
12 Pg +If+Rc+Vn 575 665 69.673 66.53246
13 Pg +If+Pp+Vn 525 694 72.31013 65.07297
14 Pg +Rc+Pp+Vn 635 741 66.50844 62.7076
15 Pg +Eo 695 748 63.34388 62.35531
16 Pg +If+Eo 575 734 69.673 63.05989
17 Pg +Rc+Eo 545 665 71.25527 66.53246
18 Pg +Pp+Eo 525 718 72.31013 63.86512
19 Pg +If+Rc+Eo 619 669 67.35232 66.33115
20 Pg +If+Pp+Eo 695 735 63.34388 63.00956
21 Pg +Rc+Pp+Eo 661 626 65.13713 68.49522
22 Pg +Ab 592 728 68.77637 63.36185
23 Pg +If+Ab 583 623 69.25105 68.6462
24 Pg +Rc+Ab 564 694 70.25316 65.07297
25 Pg +Pp+Ab 558 712 70.56962 64.16709
26 Pg +If+Rc+Ab 631 771 66.71941 61.19779
27 Pg +If+Pp+Ab 695 654 63.34388 67.08606
28 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ab 645 612 65.98101 69.1998
29 Pg +Ai 535 735 71.7827 63.00956
30 Pg +If+Ai 565 695 70.20042 65.02265
31 Pg +Rc+Ai 534 768 71.83544 61.34877
32 Pg +Pp+Ai 661 636 65.13713 67.99195
33 Pg +If+Rc+Ai 661 634 65.13713 68.0926
34 Pg +If+Pp+Ai 634 753 66.56118 62.10367
35 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ai 658 617 65.29536 68.94816
74
Table 4.16 Colorimetric data of punica granatum (Pg) combination on

cotton fabric
S. Natural Dye
1 Pg 34.01 -5.84 -15.85 22.65 256.65 12.65
2 Pg +If 36.51 -5.56 -15.47 21.98 249.98 13.98
3 Pg +Rc 35.65 -5.95 -15.60 22.47 258.65 12.10
4 Pg +Pp 33.32 -5.30 -14.52 23.52 247.87 14.25
5 Pg +If+Rc 34.04 -5.80 -15.41 22.69 254.41 12.60
6 Pg +If+Pp 34.84 -6.79 -14.58 21.85 241.01 13.32
7 Pg +Rc+Pp 25.52 -5.55 -15.95 22.32 252.23 11.65
8 Pg +Vn 26.60 -6.65 -14.60 23.65 250.65 12.70
9 Pg +If+Vn 34.32 -5.48 -16.32 22.87 255.84 13.45
10 Pg +Rc+Vn 34.51 -4.82 -15.41 21.41 256.05 12.60
11 Pg +Pp+Vn 36.85 -5.65 -14.05 22.25 249.14 12.32
12 Pg +If+Rc+Vn 25.95 -5.47 -15.98 23.90 258.55 14.95
13 Pg +If+Pp+Vn 24.63 -5.85 -16.65 22.56 243.98 11.84
14 Pg +Rc+Pp+Vn 23.21 -6.92 -15.32 21.34 266.65 12.03
15 Pg +Eo 34.41 -5.14 -14.05 22.26 255.32 13.15
16 Pg +If+Eo 35.74 -4.56 -15.98 23.87 242.01 12.62
17 Pg +Rc+Eo 32.02 -5.63 -14.41 22.41 251.48 11.36
18 Pg +Pp+Eo 33.59 -6.65 -15.02 21.02 244.74 12.65
19 Pg +If+Rc+Eo 34.63 -5.32 -16.65 22.56 255.51 13.65
20 Pg +If+Pp+Eo 36.02 -5.95 -15.98 23.98 248.20 12.98
21 Pg +Rc+Pp+Eo 35.54 -5.84 -14.74 22.56 258.32 14.41
22 Pg +Ab 34.78 -4.95 -15.01 21.32 267.65 11.05
23 Pg +If+Ab 23.95 -5.60 -15.52 22.41 254.98 12.65
24 Pg +Rc+Ab 27.63 -4.10 -15.65 23.58 241.74 13.98
25 Pg +Pp+Ab 25.06 -5.25 -15.98 22.47 250.02 12.41
26 Pg +If+Rc+Ab 36.95 -4.45 -16.65 21.41 262.54 11.65
27 Pg +If+Pp+Ab 35.74 -5.85 -15.30 22.25 255.74 14.32
28 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ab 35.15 -6.32 -14.21 23.36 246.84 11.65
29 Pg +Ai 34.95 -6.95 -15.47 23.95 253.26 12.80
30 Pg +If+Ai 26.87 -6.74 -15.95 22.41 260.35 13.41
31 Pg +Rc+Ai 28.45 -4.01 -16.65 21.20 252.95 11.65
32 Pg +Pp+Ai 26.12 -5.58 -14.98 22.23 243.61 14.30
33 Pg +If+Rc+Ai 35.62 -4.95 -16.32 22.65 256.45 12.65
34 Pg +If+Pp+Ai 24.62 -5.62 -15.74 22.98 265.32 13.98
35 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ai 28.21 -6.03 -15.15 23.74 254.65 12.41
75
4.2.5 Allium Cepa (Al) and its Combination on Cotton Fabric for
shade Variation and Functional Effect
The results obtained from the application method of allium cepa on

cotton fabric in the intact form and in combination with other natural
berberis vulgaris is pink. There are various colors obtained with different hues
when allium cepa is mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.

alum are used in natural dyeing with Vn combination with concentration
1.5%, 0.5% and 0.5% and dye assistants sodium chloride and potash alum
with 1% and 0.5% was used for the first level of combinational dyeing with
If, Rc and Pp. Combination of Al with Eo, Ab and Ai required 1% and 0.5%
of sodium chloride and potash alum for best results. The temperature was
maintained at 60° for Allium cepa dye alone, and for the combination dyeing
the temperature was varied from low to high level with respect to the best
dyeing result. The duration of the natural dyeing is 30 minutes for the allium
cepa dye alone whereas the duration increases there afterwards based on the
combination.
76
Table 4.17 Application method of allium cepa (Al) and its combination
on cotton fabric

1 Al 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 30 Pink
2 Al +If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish pink
3 Al +Rc 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Red
4 Al +Pp 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Green
5 Al +Rc+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
6 Al +Pp+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
7 Al + (Rc+Pp) 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Red
8 Al +Vn 1.5 Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 60 Pink
9 Al +Vn+If 1.5 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 90 Bluish pink
10 Al +Rc+Vn 1.5 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Green
11 Al +Pp+Vn 1.5 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
12 Al+(Rc+Vn)+If 1.5 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
13 Al+(Pp+Vn)+If 1.5 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
14 Al+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 1.5 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
15 Al +Eo 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Pink
16 Al +Eo+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish pink
17 Al +Rc+Eo 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Red
18 Al +Pp+Eo 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Green
19 Al +(Rc+Eo)+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
20 Al +(Pp+Eo)+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
21 Al +(Rc+Pp)+Eo 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
22 Al +Ab 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 70 60 Pink
23 Al +Ab+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 90 Bluish pink
24 Al +Rc+Ab 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
25 Al +Pp+Ab 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Green
26 Al +(Rc+Ab)+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
27 Al +(Pp+Ab)+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
28 Al +(Rc+Pp)+Ab 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
29 Al +Ai 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Pink
30 Al +Ai+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish pink
31 Al +Rc+Ai 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Red
32 Al +Pp+Ai 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Green
33 Al +(Rc+Ai)+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
34 Al +(Pp+Ai)+If 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
35 Al +(Rc+Pp)+Ai 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
77
4.2.5.1 FTIR analysis of allium cepa dye extract
The FTIR Analysis of allium cepa dye sample is shown in

Figure 4.5. The infra-red spectrum curve indicates the presence of groups
according to the peaks obtained that showed the presence of hydroxyl group
OH (3400), ether group C-O-C (700) ,cyano group (1600) and carbonyl
group (1000). The presence of these groups indicate that allium cepa contains
coloring component required for good dyeing on cotton fabric.
90
860.19
877.55
802.33
1934.47
1980.76
3975.02
2034.76
892.98
2054.05
765.69
2090.69
2345.28
2108.05
2146.62
2138.91
2125.41
2212.20
2194.84
2179.41
2162.05
2262.35
2248.84
2231.49
%T
2279.70
3726.22
2383.85
3770.58
437.81
3903.65
503.39
694.33
451.31
466.74
80
526.53
3689.57
557.39
663.47
592.11
538.10
640.32
3853.51
619.11
70
1718.46
1313.43
1508.23
3004.89
1269.07
1244.00
1157.21
3072.39
1400.22
1375.15
3109.04
60
1089.71
1569.95
1108.99
1610.45
1049.20
1033.77
1020.27
1577.66
3228.62
3265.26
3284.55
3299.98
3404.13
2852.52
50
3384.84
1627.81
3328.91
40
2923.88
30
20
4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1750 1500 1250 1000 750 500
Figure 4.5 FTIR spectrum of allium cepa dye extract
4.2.5.2 Color fastness property of Al dyed cotton fabric

crocking (rubbing) on the natural dyed cotton fabric are shown in Table 4.18.
The average light fastness value is around 3-4 on the Al dyed cotton fabric.
The color change and color stain character during washing fastness test on Al
dyed cotton fabric is good (3-4). The crocking fastness of cotton fabric dyed
with different natural sources is also good. Compared to wet state, the dry
state showed more effect. In both the wet and dry state of crocking fastness
testing, the color change and color stain values are similar.
78
Table 4.18 Color fastness ratings of allium cepa (Al) combination on

cotton fabric

Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Al 4 3 4 3 2 3-4 3
2 Al +If 3 4 3 2 3 4 4
3 Al +Rc 4 3-4 3 3 3 3 3
4 Al +Pp 3 3 4 3 2-3 4 3
5 Al +If+Rc 3 4 3 2 2 4 3
6 Al +If+Pp 3 3-4 4 3 2 3 3-4
7 Al +Rc+Pp 4 4 3 2-3 3 3 4
8 Al +Vn 3 4 4 2 3 3 4
9 Al +If+Vn 3 3 4 2 2 4 3
10 Al +Rc+Vn 3 3-4 3 2 3 4 3
11 Al +Pp+Vn 3-4 4 4 3 2 3-4 4
12 Al +If+Rc+Vn 4 3 3 2 3 4 4
13 Al +If+Pp+Vn 3 3 4 3 2-3 4 3
14 Al +Rc+Pp+Vn 3 4 4 2-3 3 4 3
15 Al +Eo 3 3-4 3 3 2 3 4
16 Al +If+Eo 4 4 4 3 2 4 4
17 Al +Rc+Eo 3 4 3-4 3 2 4 3-4
18 Al +Pp+Eo 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
19 Al +If+Rc+Eo 4 3 4 3 2 4 4
20 Al +If+Pp+Eo 3 3-4 3 2 3 3 3
21 Al +Rc+Pp+Eo 3 4 4 2 2-3 4 4
22 Al +Ab 4 4 4 3 2 3 4
23 Al +If+Ab 3-4 4 3 2 3 3 3
24 Al +Rc+Ab 3 3 4 3 2 4 3
25 Al +Pp+Ab 4 4 3-4 3 2 4 4
26 Al +If+Rc+Ab 4 3 3 3 2-3 3 4
27 Al +If+Pp+Ab 3 3 3 3 2 3 4
28 Al +Rc+Pp+Ab 3 4 3 2-3 3 4 3
29 Al +Ai 4 4 4 2 3 4 3-4
30 Al +If+Ai 3 3-4 4 3 2 4 3
31 Al +Rc+Ai 3 4 3 3 3 4 4
32 Al +Pp+Ai 4 3 4 2-3 2 4 3-4
33 Al +If+Rc+Ai 3 3 4 3 2 4 4
34 Al +If+Pp+Ai 3-4 3-4 3 2 3 4 3-4
35 Al +Rc+Pp+Ai 4 4 4 2 2 3 4
79
4.2.5.3 Antimicrobial assessment of Al dyed cotton fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Al natural dyed cotton

samples are given in Table 4.19. The bacterial count for undyed cotton
samples are 1889 and 1860 for gram (+) and gram (-) cultures. From this it is
inferred that there is only a slight deviation of the number of bacterial counts
for gram (+) and gram (-) culture. The number of gram (+) and gram (-)
ranges about 500-700 for dyed samples and thus the reduction% of the
microbial attack also has not deviated much, and it has recorded an average of
65% for both the cultures.
4.2.5.4 K/S analysis of Al dyed cotton fabric
The colorimetric data of allium cepa (Al) and its combination

applied on cotton fabric is given in Table 4.20. The average data for K/S
value is around 12 which are considered as good color strength value. There is
a good color strength value on the cotton fabric dyed by Al alone (12.65), and
few combination dyeing (Al+Vn, Al+Pp) also give prominent K/S values
suitable for cotton dyeing.
80
Table 4.19 Antimicrobial assessment of allium cepa (Al) combination

on cotton fabric

Undyed 1889 1860 - -
1 Al 525 698 72.20752 62.47312
2 Al +If 554 656 70.67231 64.73118
3 Al +Rc 526 521 72.15458 71.98925
4 Al +Pp 654 548 65.37851 70.53763
5 Al +If+Rc 598 626 68.34304 66.34409
6 Al +If+Pp 636 536 66.33139 71.1828
7 Al +Rc+Pp 625 595 66.91371 68.01075
8 Al +Vn 598 647 68.34304 65.21505
9 Al +If+Vn 546 512 71.09582 72.47312
10 Al +Rc+Vn 635 545 66.38433 70.69892
11 Al +Pp+Vn 698 617 63.04923 66.82796
12 Al +If+Rc+Vn 514 689 72.78984 62.95699
13 Al +If+Pp+Vn 525 626 72.20752 66.34409
14 Al +Rc+Pp+Vn 578 525 69.4018 71.77419
15 Al +Eo 532 545 71.83695 70.69892
16 Al +If+Eo 699 636 62.99629 65.80645
17 Al +Rc+Eo 539 612 71.46638 67.09677
18 Al +Pp+Eo 525 519 72.20752 72.09677
19 Al +If+Rc+Eo 665 583 64.79619 68.65591
20 Al +If+Pp+Eo 698 636 63.04923 65.80645
21 Al +Rc+Pp+Eo 674 654 64.31975 64.83871
22 Al +Ab 532 521 71.83695 71.98925
23 Al +If+Ab 569 548 69.87824 70.53763
24 Al +Rc+Ab 675 669 64.26681 64.03226
25 Al +Pp+Ab 514 535 72.78984 71.23656
26 Al +If+Rc+Ab 632 551 66.54314 70.37634
27 Al +If+Pp+Ab 526 568 72.15458 69.46237
28 Al +Rc+Pp+Ab 695 674 63.20805 63.76344
29 Al +Ai 532 621 71.83695 66.6129
30 Al +If+Ai 645 665 65.85495 64.24731
31 Al +Rc+Ai 698 529 63.04923 71.55914
32 Al +Pp+Ai 675 535 64.26681 71.23656
33 Al +If+Rc+Ai 512 564 72.89571 69.67742
34 Al +If+Pp+Ai 536 637 71.6252 65.75269
35 Al +Rc+Pp+Ai 699 691 62.99629 62.84946
81
Table 4.20 Colorimetric data of allium cepa (Al) combination on cotton

fabric
S. Natural Dye
1 Al 35.62 -5.65 -15.65 22.65 256.65 12.65
2 Al +If 34.01 -5.85 -14.41 21.87 245.98 13.84
3 Al +Rc 32.45 -5.65 -15.52 22.15 258.74 12.02
4 Al +Pp 36.85 -6.85 -16.32 23.23 267.14 14.56
5 Al +If+Rc 33.95 -5.40 -15.65 22.65 261.52 12.98
6 Al +If+Pp 26.62 -4.12 -14.98 21.09 262.62 13.70
7 Al +Rc+Pp 34.30 -5.56 -15.75 22.45 253.30 11.46
8 Al +Vn 27.41 -6.95 -15.12 23.45 242.25 14.36
9 Al +If+Vn 28.52 -5.84 -15.32 23.65 256.47 11.26
10 Al +Rc+Vn 35.60 -4.70 -14.65 23.98 245.89 12.51
11 Al +Pp+Vn 26.32 -5.15 -15.30 21.70 259.66 13.65
12 Al +If+Rc+Vn 32.45 -5.62 -16.65 22.45 248.21 13.41
13 Al +If+Pp+Vn 33.85 -5.51 -15.90 23.62 257.65 12.02
14 Al +Rc+Pp+Vn 36.62 -5.30 -14.41 22.32 244.98 14.59
15 Al +Eo 35.30 -5.24 -15.84 21.50 250.741 11.84
16 Al +If+Eo 34.14 -4.84 -15.50 22.41 261.565 12.15
17 Al +Rc+Eo 35.85 -5.65 -15.65 23.84 262.32 13.20
18 Al +Pp+Eo 34.95 -4.23 -15.98 22.50 263.41 12.30
19 Al +If+Rc+Eo 25.62 -5.65 -14.70 21.26 256.74 11.36
20 Al +If+Pp+Eo 26.32 -6.98 -14.21 22.33 245.54 14.65
21 Al +Rc+Pp+Eo 28.15 -5.72 -14.54 22.65 254.65 12.97
22 Al +Ab 32.62 -4.45 -15.32 22.98 249.98 12.05
23 Al +If+Ab 26.42 -5.15 -15.65 23.70 257.74 12.40
24 Al +Rc+Ab 35.35 -4.80 -14.04 22.45 262.12 13.15
25 Al +Pp+Ab 26.75 -5.65 -15.85 21.65 255.36 11.62
26 Al +If+Rc+Ab 33.95 -5.32 -14.65 22.32 244.50 14.30
27 Al +If+Pp+Ab 36.45 -5.59 -14.32 23.65 258.54 12.95
28 Al +Rc+Pp+Ab 32.23 -5.25 -15.50 22.98 269.87 13.87
29 Al +Ai 33.65 -4.45 -15.41 21.70 256.41 12.40
30 Al +If+Ai 36.32 -5.84 -15.84 22.42 243.32 11.12
31 Al +Rc+Ai 35.45 -6.65 -16.62 23.35 252.65 14.32
32 Al +Pp+Ai 26.65 -5.32 -15.30 22.65 261.98 12.65
33 Al +If+Rc+Ai 35.95 -4.62 -14.65 21.98 254.74 13.80
34 Al +If+Pp+Ai 36.26 -5.52 -15.95 22.74 245.02 11.65
35 Al +Rc+Pp+Ai 32.52 -5.62 -16.56 22.32 257.56 12.30
82
4.2.6 Citrus Paradise (Cp) and its Combination on Cotton Fabric for
The results obtained from the application method of citrus paradisi

on cotton fabric in the intact form and in combination with other natural
citrus paradisi is purple. There are various colors obtained with different hues
when citrus paradisi is mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.

alum are used in concentrations 1%, 0.5% and 0.5% in natural dyeing with Vn
combination. The first level of combinational dyeing with If, Rc and Pp
required 0.5% of sodium chloride and potash alum separately for best results.
Combination of dyeing with Eo, Ab and Ai required 0.5% of sodium chloride
and potash alum separately. The temperature was maintained at 60° for Cp
dye alone, and for the combination dyeing the temperature was varied from
low to high level with respect to the best dyeing result. The duration of the
natural dyeing is 30 minutes for the citrus paradisi dye alone whereas the
duration increases there afterwards based on the combination and results
needed.
83
Table 4.21 Application method of citrus paradisi (Cp) combination on

cotton fabric

1 Cp 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 30 purple
2 Cp +If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish purple
3 Cp +Rc 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Reddish green
4 Cp +Pp 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Greenish orange
5 Cp +Rc+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish green
6 Cp +Pp+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
7 Cp + (Rc+Pp) 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Reddish purple
8 Cp +Vn 1 Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 60 purple
9 Cp +Vn+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 90 Bluish purple
10 Cp +Rc+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Greenish yellow
11 Cp +Pp+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Greenish red
12 Cp+(Rc+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
13 Cp+(Pp+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
14 Cp+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish purple
15 Cp +Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 purple
16 Cp +Eo+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish purple
17 Cp +Rc+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Reddish green
18 Cp +Pp+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Greenish orange
19 Cp +(Rc+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish Green
20 Cp +(Pp+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish Green
21 Cp +(Rc+Pp)+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish purple
22 Cp +Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 70 60 purple
23 Cp +Ab+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 90 Bluish purple
24 Cp +Rc+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish Green
25 Cp +Pp+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Greenish orange
26 Cp +(Rc+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish green
27 Cp +(Pp+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
28 Cp +(Rc+Pp)+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish purple
29 Cp +Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 purple
30 Cp +Ai+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish purple
31 Cp +Rc+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Reddish green
32 Cp +Pp+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Greenish orange
33 Cp +(Rc+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish green
34 Cp +(Pp+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
35 Cp +(Rc+Pp)+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish purple
84
4.2.6.1 FTIR analysis of citrus paradisi dye extract
The FTIR Analysis of citrus paradisi dye sample is shown in

Figure 4.6. The infra-red spectrum curve indicates the presence of groups
according to the peaks obtained that shows the presence of hydroxyl group
OH (3400), ether group C-O-C (700) ,cyano group (1600) and carbonyl
group (1000). The presence of these groups indicate that citrus paradisi
contains chromophores (color giving groups), and auxochromes (color
retaining groups) responsible for good colors with good fastness properties on
all cotton fabric.
90
860.19
877.55
802.33
1934.47
1980.76
3975.02
2034.76
892.98
2054.05
765.69
2090.69
2345.28
2108.05
2146.62
2138.91
2125.41
2212.20
2194.84
2179.41
2162.05
%T
2262.35
2248.84
2231.49
2279.70
3726.22
2383.85
3770.58
437.81
3903.65
503.39
694.33
451.31
466.74
80
526.53
3689.57
557.39
663.47
592.11
538.10
640.32
3853.51
619.11
70
1718.46
1313.43
1508.23
3004.89
1269.07
1244.00
1157.21
3072.39
1400.22
1375.15
3109.04
60
1089.71
1569.95
1108.99
1610.45
1049.20
1033.77
1020.27
1577.66
3228.62
3265.26
3284.55
3299.98
3404.13
2852.52
50
3384.84
1627.81
3328.91
40
2923.88
30
20
4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1750 1500 1250 1000 750 500
Dye 1 1/cm
Figure 4.6 FTIR spectrum of citrus paradisi dye extract
4.2.6.2 Color Fastness Property of Cp dyed cotton fabric

crocking (rubbing) on the natural dyed cotton fabric is given in Table 4.22.
There is a moderate light fastness exhibited by the Cp natural dyed cotton
fabric. The light fastness property is in the range of 3 and 3-4. The average
washing fastness value is about 3-4. The color change and staining property
of wash fastness on the Cp dyed cotton fabric is good (3-4). The crocking
fastness of cotton fabric dyed using Cp with different natural sources also
shows good fastness property particularly in dry condition. The dry condition
85
of the dyed sample shows good rating of average 3-4 when compared to wet
condition that gives around 2. The color change and the staining property of
both the condition is more or less the same separately for wet and dry
condition respectively.
Table 4.22 Color fastness ratings of citrus paradise (Cp) combination

on cotton fabric

Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Cp 4 3 3-4 2 2 3 4
2 Cp +If 3 3 3 2 2 3 3-4
3 Cp +Rc 3 4 3-4 2 2 3 4
4 Cp +Pp 3 3 4 2 2 4 3
5 Cp +If+Rc 3 4 4 2 2 3 3
6 Cp +If+Pp 4 4 3-4 2 2 3-4 4
7 Cp +Rc+Pp 4 3-4 4 2 2 4 4
8 Cp +Vn 3 4 4 2 2-3 4 4
9 Cp +If+Vn 3 3 3 2 2 3 3
10 Cp +Rc+Vn 4 4 4 2-3 2 4 3-4
11 Cp +Pp+Vn 3 3-4 3 2 2 3 4
12 Cp +If+Rc+Vn 3 3 3 2 2 3-4 4
13 Cp +If+Pp+Vn 3-4 4 4 2 2 4 3-4
14 Cp +Rc+Pp+Vn 3 4 3 2 2-3 3 3
15 Cp +Eo 4 3 3-4 2 2 4 4
16 Cp +If+Eo 4 4 4 2 2 3 4
17 Cp +Rc+Eo 3 4 4 2 2 4 3
18 Cp +Pp+Eo 3 4 3 2 2 4 4
19 Cp +If+Rc+Eo 3 3 4 2-3 2 3-4 3
20 Cp +If+Pp+Eo 3 3 3 2 2 4 3
21 Cp +Rc+Pp+Eo 4 4 3 2 2-3 3 4
22 Cp +Ab 3 3 3-4 2 2 3 3-4
23 Cp +If+Ab 3 3 3 2 2 4 4
24 Cp +Rc+Ab 3-4 3 3 2 2 4 4
25 Cp +Pp+Ab 3 4 4 2 2 4 3
26 Cp +If+Rc+Ab 3 3-4 3 2 2 3 3
27 Cp +If+Pp+Ab 3 3 4 2 2 3 3-4
28 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ab 4 4 4 2 2 4 4
29 Cp +Ai 3-4 4 3 2 2 3 3
30 Cp +If+Ai 4 3-4 4 2 2 3 3
31 Cp +Rc+Ai 3 3 3-4 2 2 4 4
32 Cp +Pp+Ai 3 4 4 2 2 3-4 4
33 Cp +If+Rc+Ai 4 4 3 2 2-3 4 3
34 Cp +If+Pp+Ai 3 4 4 2-3 2 4 4
35 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ai 3 3-4 3 2 2 3 3-4
86
4.2.6.3 Antimicrobial assessment of Cp dyed cotton fabric
The data of antimicrobial assessment of citrus paradisi (Cp) and its

combination on cotton fabric are given in Table 4.23. The reduction
percentage of microbial growth on all the natural dyed cotton fabric is above
65 when compared to the undyed samples. The natural dyed cotton fabric
gave very good result both in gram (+) bacteria reduction rate and gram (-)
bacteria reduction rate. This is because, the dyed Cp samples in combination
with antimicrobial ingredients are good in resisting the growth of gram (+)
microbes and gram (-) microbes.
4.2.6.4 K/S analysis of Cp dyed cotton fabric
The K/S values of Cp natural dyed cotton fabric are given in

Table 4.24. The average data for K/S value is nearly 13 which are considered
as good color strength value. The citrus paradisi itself gives good color
strength value on cotton fabric. There is no considerable difference in the
color strength value for combination dyeing using Cp on cotton fabric.
87
Table 4.23 Antimicrobial assessment of citrus paradisi (Cp) combination

on cotton fabric

Undyed 1854 1897 - -
1 Cp 612 654 66.99029 65.52451
2 Cp +If 645 585 65.21036 69.16183
3 Cp +Rc 665 565 64.13161 70.21613
4 Cp +Pp 588 512 68.28479 73.01002
5 Cp +If+Rc 549 641 70.38835 66.2098
6 Cp +If+Pp 556 658 70.01079 65.31365
7 Cp +Rc+Pp 625 595 66.2891 68.63469
8 Cp +Vn 569 562 69.3096 70.37428
9 Cp +If+Vn 532 532 71.30529 71.95572
10 Cp +Rc+Vn 598 654 67.74542 65.52451
11 Cp +Pp+Vn 556 674 70.01079 64.47022
12 Cp +If+Rc+Vn 645 512 65.21036 73.01002
13 Cp +If+Pp+Vn 674 585 63.64617 69.16183
14 Cp +Rc+Pp+Vn 525 695 71.68285 63.36321
15 Cp +Eo 554 535 70.11866 71.79758
16 Cp +If+Eo 521 615 71.8986 67.58039
17 Cp +Rc+Eo 523 575 71.79072 69.68898
18 Cp +Pp+Eo 665 695 64.13161 63.36321
19 Cp +If+Rc+Eo 598 645 67.74542 65.99895
20 Cp +If+Pp+Eo 645 575 65.21036 69.68898
21 Cp +Rc+Pp+Eo 585 515 68.4466 72.85187
22 Cp +Ab 532 646 71.30529 65.94623
23 Cp +If+Ab 641 565 65.42611 70.21613
24 Cp +Rc+Ab 667 598 64.02373 68.47654
25 Cp +Pp+Ab 557 536 69.95685 71.74486
26 Cp +If+Rc+Ab 598 668 67.74542 64.78651
27 Cp +If+Pp+Ab 656 536 64.61704 71.74486
28 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ab 625 696 66.2891 63.31049
29 Cp +Ai 565 536 69.52535 71.74486
30 Cp +If+Ai 545 635 70.6041 66.52609
31 Cp +Rc+Ai 532 532 71.30529 71.95572
32 Cp +Pp+Ai 565 665 69.52535 64.94465
33 Cp +If+Rc+Ai 685 524 63.05286 72.37744
34 Cp +If+Pp+Ai 542 612 70.76591 67.73853
35 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ai 532 658 71.30529 65.31365
88
Table 4.24 Colorimetric data of citrus paradisi (Cp) combination on

cotton fabric
S. Natural Dye
1 Cp 36.16 -5.65 -15.65 22.65 256.65 12.65
2 Cp +If 35.50 -5.02 -15.84 21.84 255.98 13.95
3 Cp +Rc 34.2 -5.65 -16.26 22.70 267.45 12.26
4 Cp +Pp 32.65 -6.41 -15.53 23.25 254.12 14.35
5 Cp +If+Rc 33.94 -5.25 -14.65 22.65 248.62 12.54
6 Cp +If+Pp 26.51 -6.90 -15.01 21.30 255.30 13.15
7 Cp +Rc+Pp 25.02 -5.32 -16.45 22.51 269.40 12.95
8 Cp +Vn 29.36 -4.65 -15.85 23.48 255.15 11.62
9 Cp +If+Vn 34.59 -5.87 -14.85 22.95 246.87 14.30
10 Cp +Rc+Vn 25.12 -4.40 -15.15 21.60 252.98 11.74
11 Cp +Pp+Vn 32.45 -5.51 -16.52 22.32 263.65 12.05
12 Cp +If+Rc+Vn 28.85 -4.23 -15.65 23.65 250.35 13.89
13 Cp +If+Pp+Vn 36.62 -5.65 -15.30 22.74 241.71 12.65
14 Cp +Rc+Pp+Vn 35.30 -6.98 -15.21 21.32 244.92 14.32
15 Cp +Eo 34.25 -5.70 -14.44 22.80 245.64 12.82
16 Cp +If+Eo 35.48 -4.25 -15.89 23.14 256.85 13.69
17 Cp +Rc+Eo 36.95 -5.62 -16.26 22.75 245.62 12.54
18 Cp +Pp+Eo 27.62 -5.32 -15.26 22.65 259.55 14.95
19 Cp +If+Rc+Eo 26.41 -5.54 -14.95 21.32 268.65 12.75
20 Cp +If+Pp+Eo 26.32 -5.87 -15.62 22.65 257.93 13.62
21 Cp +Rc+Pp+Eo 34.65 -5.45 -16.01 23.84 260.02 12.32
22 Cp +Ab 25.74 -5.95 -15.45 22.10 251.35 12.65
23 Cp +If+Ab 32.85 -5.60 -14.98 21.25 262.48 12.98
24 Cp +Rc+Ab 27.15 -4.32 -15.78 23.65 253.98 13.74
25 Cp +Pp+Ab 36.62 -5.65 -16.60 23.32 256.71 12.25
26 Cp +If+Rc+Ab 25.30 -4.41 -15.35 23.65 255.25 14.61
27 Cp +If+Pp+Ab 34.14 -5.98 -14.65 21.87 249.65 12.42
28 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ab 25.78 -6.50 -15.21 22.40 258.34 13.51
29 Cp +Ai 25.32 -5.41 -16.02 23.56 247.84 12.36
30 Cp +If+Ai 26.65 -5.21 -15.65 21.98 260.95 14.65
31 Cp +Rc+Ai 35.41 -6.32 -14.98 22.65 243.65 12.68
32 Cp +Pp+Ai 34.52 -6.65 -15.70 23.02 266.63 12.95
33 Cp +If+Rc+Ai 27.95 -5.98 -16.12 22.48 244.32 12.45
34 Cp +If+Pp+Ai 33.62 -4.40 -15.65 21.65 261.82 13.12
35 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ai 36.31 -5.12 -15.03 22.98 242.51 12.75
89

PROPERTY OF NATURAL DYED SILK FABRIC
The major natural dyes Bv, Bo, Tc, Pg, Al and Cp combination
with other natural dyes If, Rc, Pp for shade variation, and combination with
Vn, Eo, Ab and Ai to impart functional variation (antimicrobial property) on
silk fabric were discussed in this division. The studies contained color
fastness property, antimicrobial assessment and K/S evaluation for all the six
major dyes and their combination for the dyed silk fabric.
4.3.1 Berberis Vulgaris (Bv) and its Combination on Silk Fabric for

vulgaris on silk fabric in the intact form and in combination with other natural
type of mordanting technique. The basic color obtained on silk fabric using
berberis vulgaris is orange. There are various colors obtained with different
hues when berberis vulgaris is mixed with one or more other natural
ingredient.
Dye assistants sodium chloride, sodium carbonate and potash alum

are used in natural dyeing with Vn combination and the concentration of the
same is 1%, 0.5% and 1% respectively. The dye assistants sodium chloride
and potash alum with concentration 0.5% and 1% was used in combination
with Vn. The first level of combination required only potash alum of 0.5% to
give best result. The temperature was maintained at 60° for berberis vulgaris
low to high level with respect to the best dyeing result. The duration of the
natural dyeing is 30 minutes for the berberis vulgaris dye alone whereas the
duration increases there afterwards based on the combination and results needed.
90

combination on silk fabric

application (C) (min) obtained
1 Bv - - - - 0.5 Pr 60 30 orange
2 Bv +If - - - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Green
3 Bv +Rc - - - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Red
4 Bv +Pp - - - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 orange
5 Bv +Rc+If - - - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
6 Bv +Pp+If - - - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
7 Bv + (Rc+Pp) - - - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Reddish green
8 Bv +Vn 1 Po 0.5 S 1 Pr +45 60 orange
9 Bv +Vn+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1 Pr +45 90 Red
10 Bv +Rc+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1 Pr +60 90 Orange
11 Bv +Pp+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1 Pr +60 90 Orange
12 Bv+(Rc+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1 Pr +70 90 Red
13 Bv+(Pp+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1 Pr +70 90 Red
14 Bv+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
15 Bv +Eo 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr 60 60 orange
16 Bv +Eo+If 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +32 60 Red
17 Bv +Rc+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +60 60 Red
18 Bv +Pp+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +70 90 Orange
19 Bv +(Rc+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +60 90 Red
20 Bv +(Pp+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +70 90 Red
21 Bv +(Rc+Pp)+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
22 Bv +Ab 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr 70 60 orange
23 Bv +Ab+If 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +32 90 Red
24 Bv +Rc+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +60 90 Red
25 Bv +Pp+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +70 90 Orange
26 Bv +(Rc+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +60 90 Red
27 Bv +(Pp+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +70 90 Red
28 Bv +(Rc+Pp)+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
29 Bv +Ai 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr 60 60 orange
30 Bv +Ai+If 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +32 60 Red
31 Bv +Rc+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +60 60 Red
32 Bv +Pp+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +70 60 Orange
33 Bv +(Rc+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +60 90 Red
34 Bv +(Pp+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +70 90 Red
35 Bv +(Rc+Pp)+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 1 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
91
4.3.1.1 Color Fastness Property of Bv dyed silk fabric

crocking (rubbing) on the natural dyed silk fabric are given in Table 4.26. The
values indicate good light fastness property with an average of 4, which is of
good range. The washing fastness of the natural dyed silk sample also gave
good ratings of an average of 4. The color change and staining property of
washing fastness on Bv dyed silk fabric are good with an average value of 4.
The crocking fastness was carried out in two different conditions wet and dry
and the two different parameters color change and staining property was also
assessed. The average wet fastness ratings were low when compared to the
dry state showing 2-3 and 3-4 respectively.
4.3.1.2 Antimicrobial assessment of Bv dyed silk fabric
The data of antimicrobial assessment of Bv and its combination on

silk fabric are shown in Table 4.27. The reduction percentage of microbial
growth on the natural dyed silk fabric is above 65 when compared to the
undyed samples. The natural dyed silk fabric gives very good result in gram
(+) bacteria reduction rate as well as for gram (-) bacteria reduction rate. This
is because, the dyed Bv samples in combination with antimicrobial
ingredients are good in resisting the growth of gram (+ive) microbes and gram
(-ive) microbes.
92

on silk fabric

Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Bv 3-4 4 4-5 2-3 2-3 4-5 4
2 Bv+If 4 3-4 4 2-3 3 4-5 3-4
3 Bv +Rc 3-4 4 4 2-3 2-3 4 4-5
4 Bv +Pp 3-4 4 3-4 3 2-3 3-4 4
5 Bv +If+Rc 3-4 4-5 4 2-3 3 4 3-4
6 Bv +If+Pp 4 3-4 3-4 3 3 3-4 3-4
7 Bv +Rc+Pp 4-5 4 4-5 3 2-3 3-4 4
8 Bv +Vn 3-4 4 4-5 2-3 2-3 3-4 4-5
9 Bv +If+Vn 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 2-3 4 3-4
10 Bv +Rc+Vn 3-4 -4 4 2-3 3 4 4-5
11 Bv +Pp+Vn 4 3-4 3-4 2-3 2-3 4-5 4-5
12 Bv +If+Rc+Vn 3-4 4 4 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
13 Bv +If+Pp+Vn 4-5 4 4 3 2-3 3-4 3-4
14 Bv +Rc+Pp+Vn 3-4 4-5 4 2-3 2-3 3-4 3-4
15 Bv +Eo 3-4 3-4 4-5 2-3 3 3-4 4-5
16 Bv +If+Eo 4 3-4 3-4 2-3 3 4 4
17 Bv +Rc+Eo 3-4 4-5 4-5 3 2-3 4-5 4
18 Bv +Pp+Eo 4-5 4 4 3 2-3 4 3-4
19 Bv +If+Rc+Eo 3-4 4 4 2-3 3 3-4 3-4
20 Bv +If+Pp+Eo 3-4 3-4 4-5 2-3 2-3 4-5 4
21 Bv +Rc+Pp+Eo 3-4 4 3-4 2-3 3 4-5 4-5
22 Bv +Ab 4 3-4 4-5 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
23 Bv +If+Ab 4 3-4 4 2-3 2-3 3-4 3-4
24 Bv +Rc+Ab 3-4 4-5 3-4 3 2-3 3-4 4
25 Bv +Pp+Ab 3-4 3-4 3-4 2-3 3 4 4
26 Bv +If+Rc+Ab 4-5 3-4 4 3 2-3 4-5 4-5
27 Bv +If+Pp+Ab 3-4 4-5 4-5 2-3 2-3 4-5 4-5
28 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ab 3-4 4 4 2-3 2-3 3-4 4-5
29 Bv +Ai 4 4 4-5 2-3 3 4 4
30 Bv +If+Ai 3-4 4-5 3-4 2-3 3 4-5 3-4
31 Bv +Rc+Ai 4-5 3-4 4-5 3 3 4-5 4
32 Bv +Pp+Ai 3-4 4 3-4 3 2-3 4 3-4
33 Bv +If+Rc+Ai 3-4 4 4 2-3 2-3 4 4-5
34 Bv +If+Pp+Ai 4 3-4 4 2-3 2-3 4 4-5
35 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ai 3-4 4-5 3-4 2-3 3 3-4 4
93
Table 4.27 Antimicrobial assessment of berberis vulgaris (Bv)


Undyed 2096 1945 - -
1 Bv 759 696 63.78817 64.21594
2 Bv+If 756 645 63.9313 66.83805
3 Bv +Rc 732 685 65.07634 64.78149
4 Bv +Pp 745 612 64.45611 68.5347
5 Bv +If+Rc 787 727 62.45229 62.62211
6 Bv +If+Pp 759 785 63.78817 59.6401
7 Bv +Rc+Pp 656 623 68.70229 67.96915
8 Bv +Vn 623 795 70.27672 59.12596
9 Bv +If+Vn 724 636 65.45802 67.30077
10 Bv +Rc+Vn 748 798 64.31298 58.97172
11 Bv +Pp+Vn 751 645 64.16985 66.83805
12 Bv +If+Rc+Vn 756 715 63.9313 63.23907
13 Bv +If+Pp+Vn 629 625 69.99046 67.86632
14 Bv +Rc+Pp+Vn 738 636 64.79008 67.30077
15 Bv +Eo 636 665 69.65649 65.80977
16 Bv +If+Eo 792 784 62.21374 59.69152
17 Bv +Rc+Eo 714 675 65.93511 65.29563
18 Bv +Pp+Eo 775 712 63.02481 63.39332
19 Bv +If+Rc+Eo 769 696 63.31107 64.21594
20 Bv +If+Pp+Eo 625 735 70.1813 62.2108
21 Bv +Rc+Pp+Eo 718 665 65.74427 65.80977
22 Bv +Ab 736 795 64.8855 59.12596
23 Bv +If+Ab 759 686 63.78817 64.73008
24 Bv +Rc+Ab 693 745 66.93702 61.69666
25 Bv +Pp+Ab 732 612 65.07634 68.5347
26 Bv +If+Rc+Ab 645 774 69.2271 60.20566
27 Bv +If+Pp+Ab 785 665 62.54771 65.80977
28 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ab 674 685 67.84351 64.78149
29 Bv +Ai 715 769 65.8874 60.46272
30 Bv +If+Ai 795 636 62.07061 67.30077
31 Bv +Rc+Ai 778 745 62.88168 61.69666
32 Bv +Pp+Ai 763 685 63.59733 64.78149
33 Bv +If+Rc+Ai 634 725 69.75191 62.72494
34 Bv +If+Pp+Ai 796 636 62.0229 67.30077
35 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ai 764 798 63.54962 58.97172
4.3.1.3 K/S analysis of Bv dyed silk fabric
The K/S values for the Bv natural dyed silk fabric are shown in
Table 28. The average data for K/S value is more than 12 which are
94
considered as good color strength value. The berberis vulgaris by itself gives
good color strength value on silk fabric and for the combination dyeing on
silk fabric, there is no significant changes in the color strength values.
Table 4.28 Colorimetric data of berberis vulgaris (Bv) combination on

silk fabric
Natural Dye
S.No.
Application L* A* b* C h K/S
1 Bv 36.65 -4.65 -15.95 21.51 249.65 14.84
2 Bv+If 35.98 -5.98 -14.84 22.02 250.40 13.95
3 Bv +Rc 34.74 -6.25 -15.02 23.60 265.21 12.30
4 Bv +Pp 32.15 -5.65 -16.56 22.87 254.84 14.92
5 Bv +If+Rc 33.20 -4.95 -15.98 21.54 247.51 12.65
6 Bv +If+Pp 26.36 -5.74 -14.60 22.20 255.65 13.75
7 Bv +Rc+Pp 35.98 -6.15 -15.65 23.62 266.32 12.84
8 Bv +Vn 26.55 -5.22 -16.99 21.30 252.00 11.41
9 Bv +If+Vn 35.65 -5.65 -15.87 22.65 243.32 12.30
10 Bv +Rc+Vn 36.41 -5.30 -14.40 23.98 259.25 13.62
11 Bv +Pp+Vn 35.02 -4.24 -16.51 21.76 267.20 12.95
12 Bv +If+Rc+Vn 38.36 -5.84 -14.20 21.42 250.54 11.87
13 Bv +If+Pp+Vn 35.95 -4.70 -15.62 22.53 244.87 14.54
14 Bv +Rc+Pp+Vn 26.84 -5.45 -14.30 21.50 255.10 12.25
15 Bv +Eo 33.74 -6.95 -15.65 23.62 262.21 13.30
16 Bv +If+Eo 28.12 -6.62 -16.98 21.85 250.30 12.62
17 Bv +Rc+Eo 34.65 -6.03 -15.70 23.20 243.65 11.95
18 Bv +Pp+Eo 25.32 -4.65 -14.45 21.4 256.98 14.73
19 Bv +If+Rc+Eo 26.65 -6.48 -15.95 22.15 265.74 12.48
20 Bv +If+Pp+Eo 29.02 -4.10 -16.60 23.60 259.13 13.25
21 Bv +Rc+Pp+Eo 33.58 -5.15 -15.32 22.30 248.95 12.30
22 Bv +Ab 36.74 -5.65 -14.15 21.65 257.60 14.65
23 Bv +If+Ab 35.01 -5.98 -15.42 22.98 244.54 11.54
24 Bv +Rc+Ab 34.56 -6.05 -16.68 23.70 250.95 12.50
25 Bv +Pp+Ab 28.65 -5.56 -15.94 22.85 261.30 13.63
26 Bv +If+Rc+Ab 33.98 -6.32 -14.75 21.40 252.65 12.95
27 Bv +If+Pp+Ab 36.02 -5.98 -15.62 22.45 243.70 11.54
28 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ab 35.40 -6.74 -16.36 23.62 256.41 12.87
29 Bv +Ai 36.15 -5.52 -15.65 22.65 265.50 14.30
30 Bv +If+Ai 36.60 -4.62 -14.98 21.98 258.20 13.62
31 Bv +Rc+Ai 25.35 -5.35 -15.70 22.70 249.36 12.52
32 Bv +Pp+Ai 36.98 -6.95 -16.45 23.54 250.95 11.84
33 Bv +If+Rc+Ai 28.70 -5.75 -15.60 22.20 264.60 14.14
34 Bv +If+Pp+Ai 33.40 -4.65 -14.32 21.30 245.54 13.20
35 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ai 27.15 -5.98 -15.85 22.65 253.87 12.65
95
4.3.2 Bixa Orellana (Bo) and its Combination on Silk Fabric for

on silk fabric in the intact form and in combination with other natural
bixa orellana is red. There are various colors obtained with different hues
when Bo is mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.

were used in natural dyeing with Eo, Ab and Ai combination and the
concentration of the same was 0.5%, 1.5% and 0.5% respectively. The dye
assistants sodium chloride and potash alum with concentration 0.5% and 2%
was used in combination of Bo with Vn. The first level of combination
required only sodium carbonate of 1.5% to give best result. The temperature
was maintained at 60° for Bo dye alone, and for the combination dyeing the
temperature was varied from low to high level with respect to the best dyeing
result. The duration of the natural dyeing is 30 minutes for the bixa orellana
dye alone whereas the duration increases there afterwards based on the
96
Table 4.29 Application method of bixa orellana (Bo) and its combination
on silk fabric

1 Bo - - 1.5 Pr - - 60 30 Red
2 Bo +If - - 1.5 Pr - - +32 60 Green
4 Bo +Pp - - 1.5 Pr - - +70 60 Red
8 Bo +Vn 0.5 Pr,Po 2 Pr - - +45 60 Red
15 Bo +Eo 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr 60 60 Red
16 Bo +Eo+If 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr +32 60 Reddish orange
22 Bo +Ab 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr 70 60 Red
29 Bo +Ai 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr 60 60 Red
97
4.3.2.1 Color fastness property of Bo dyed silk fabric

crocking (rubbing) on the natural dyed silk fabric are given in Table 4.30. The
fastness rating indicates that there is an average of moderate to good light
fastness of 3-4. The washing fastness of the Bo dyed silk sample gave good
color change property with an average of 4 and the staining property also
recorded more or less the same. There is very good dry crocking fastness on
Bo dyed silk fabric compared to the wet crocking fastness. The differences in
the color change and color stain of crocking fastness both in wet and dry
condition on the Bo dyed silk fabric are only marginal.
4.3.2.2 Antimicrobial assessment of Bo dyed silk fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Bo Natural dyed silk

samples are given in Table 4.31. The values show that the Bo of gram (+) and
gram (-) undyed silk samples are 2087 and 1994 respectively. The bacterial
counts of respective gram (+) and gram (-) ranges about 700-800 and 600-700
for Bo dyed samples. The number of bacterial counts is more in gram (+) than
gram (-) and due to this the reduction% is more in gram (-) than gram (+) for
the dyed samples. The average R% is 65% for gram (+) and 67% for gram (-).
The overall reduction percentage expressed by the silk fabric dyed with Bo
and its various combinations is good.
98
Table 4.30 Color fastness ratings of bixa orellana (Bo) combination on

silk fabric

Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Bo 3-4 4 3-4 2-3 3 4 4
2 Bo +If 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 3 4-5 4-5
3 Bo +Rc 4 4 3-4 2-3 3 3-4 3-4
4 Bo +Pp 3-4 3-4 4 2-3 3 4-5 4
5 Bo +If+Rc 4-5 3-4 4-5 3 3 3-4 3-4
6 Bo +If+Pp 4-5 4 3-4 2-3 3 3-4 4
7 Bo +Rc+Pp 3-4 4-5 4-5 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
8 Bo +Vn 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 3 4-5 3-4
9 Bo +If+Vn 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 3 4 3-4
10 Bo +Rc+Vn 4 3-4 4-5 3 2-3 4 4-5
11 Bo +Pp+Vn 4 4-5 4 3 2-3 3-4 4
12 Bo +If+Rc+Vn 3-4 3-4 4 2-3 2-3 3-4 4
13 Bo +If+Pp+Vn 4 4-5 3-4 2-3 3 4 3-4
14 Bo +Rc+Pp+Vn 3-4 4-5 4 2-3 3 3-4 3-4
15 Bo +Eo 3-4 4 4 3 2-3 4-5 4
16 Bo +If+Eo 3-4 4 4-5 3 2-3 4-5 3-4
17 Bo +Rc+Eo 3-4 3-4 4-5 3 3 4-5 4-5
18 Bo +Pp+Eo 4-5 3-4 4-5 2-3 3 3-4 4-5
19 Bo +If+Rc+Eo 4 4 3-4 2-3 3 3-4 4-5
20 Bo +If+Pp+Eo 4-5 3-4 3-4 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
21 Bo +Rc+Pp+Eo 3-4 4 4 3 2-3 4 3-4
22 Bo +Ab 3-4 4 3-4 2-3 3 3-4 3-4
23 Bo +If+Ab 3-4 3-4 4 3 3 3-4 4
24 Bo +Rc+Ab 4-5 3-4 3-4 3 2-3 4-5 3-4
25 Bo +Pp+Ab 3-4 4 3-4 3 3 4-5 4
26 Bo +If+Rc+Ab 3-4 4-5 3-4 2-3 3 4 4-5
27 Bo +If+Pp+Ab 4 4-5 4 2-3 3 3-4 4-5
28 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ab 3-4 4-5 4-5 3 2-3 4 3-4
29 Bo +Ai 3-4 3-4 4-5 3 2-3 4-5 3-4
30 Bo +If+Ai 4-5 4 3-4 3 3 4-5 4
31 Bo +Rc+Ai 3-4 4-5 3-4 3 3 3-4 4
32 Bo +Pp+Ai 3-4 3-4 3-4 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
33 Bo +If+Rc+Ai 3-4 4 4 3 2-3 4 4-5
34 Bo +If+Pp+Ai 4 3-4 4 2-3 3 3-4 4-5
35 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ai 3-4 4-5 4-5 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
99

on silk fabric

Undyed 2087 1994 - -
1 Bo 745 689 64.30283 65.44634
2 Bo +If 787 665 62.29037 66.64995
3 Bo +Rc 759 636 63.63201 68.10431
4 Bo +Pp 756 615 63.77575 69.15747
5 Bo +If+Rc 736 648 64.73407 67.50251
6 Bo +If+Pp 725 614 65.26114 69.20762
7 Bo +Rc+Pp 645 695 69.09439 65.14544
8 Bo +Vn 688 639 67.03402 67.95386
9 Bo +If+Vn 712 669 65.88404 66.44935
10 Bo +Rc+Vn 795 658 61.90704 67.001
11 Bo +Pp+Vn 774 769 62.91327 61.4343
12 Bo +If+Rc+Vn 786 636 62.33828 68.10431
13 Bo +If+Pp+Vn 725 758 65.26114 61.98596
14 Bo +Rc+Pp+Vn 695 695 66.69861 65.14544
15 Bo +Eo 664 747 68.184 62.53761
16 Bo +If+Eo 658 714 68.47149 64.19258
17 Bo +Rc+Eo 648 725 68.95065 63.64092
18 Bo +Pp+Eo 714 796 65.78821 60.08024
19 Bo +If+Rc+Eo 778 636 62.72161 68.10431
20 Bo +If+Pp+Eo 795 695 61.90704 65.14544
21 Bo +Rc+Pp+Eo 763 765 63.44034 61.6349
22 Bo +Ab 798 745 61.7633 62.63791
23 Bo +If+Ab 745 785 64.30283 60.6319
24 Bo +Rc+Ab 678 615 67.51318 69.15747
25 Bo +Pp+Ab 615 795 70.53186 60.13039
26 Bo +If+Rc+Ab 665 636 68.13608 68.10431
27 Bo +If+Pp+Ab 736 695 64.73407 65.14544
28 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ab 695 645 66.69861 67.65296
29 Bo +Ai 747 778 64.207 60.98295
30 Bo +If+Ai 685 666 67.17777 66.5998
31 Bo +Rc+Ai 795 656 61.90704 67.1013
32 Bo +Pp+Ai 796 626 61.85913 68.60582
33 Bo +If+Rc+Ai 725 626 65.26114 68.60582
34 Bo +If+Pp+Ai 785 755 62.3862 62.13641
35 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ai 658 655 68.47149 67.15145
4.3.2.3 K/S analysis of Bo dyed silk fabric
The K/S values for Bo natural dyed silk fabric are given in
100
to be preferable color strength for textile dyeing. The bixa orellana itself gives
good color strength value on silk fabric. Many combinations of natural dyeing
with Bo on silk fabric give marginal increase in the color strength that
exhibits the value around 13.
Table 4.32Colorimetric data of bixa orellana (Bo) combination on silk fabric
S. Natural Dye
L* a* b* C h K/S
No. Application
1 Bo 32.65 -5.66 -14.65 23.62 258.95 11.65
2 Bo +If 33.84 -4.97 -15.25 22.80 269.01 12.74
3 Bo +Rc 35.01 -5.65 -16.65 21.45 245.62 13.51
4 Bo +Pp 34.54 -6.98 -15.98 22.70 257.75 12.20
5 Bo +If+Rc 32.60 -5.74 -14.70 23.21 260.84 12.32
6 Bo +If+Pp 33.23 -4.15 -15.45 22.60 258.01 12.65
7 Bo +Rc+Pp 26.65 -5.23 -16.65 21.32 249.32 13.98
8 Bo +Vn 35.98 -5.65 -15.32 23.65 256.65 12.74
9 Bo +If+Vn 28.02 -5.02 -14.65 22.04 260.40 14.12
10 Bo +Rc+Vn 32.54 -6.65 -15.90 21.87 252.85 11.60
11 Bo +Pp+Vn 26.74 -5.97 -14.45 22.50 249.01 12.32
12 Bo +If+Rc+Vn 36.80 -4.80 -15.71 23.65 256.62 13.54
13 Bo +If+Pp+Vn 33.56 -5.20 -14.50 22.90 265.95 12.87
14 Bo +Rc+Pp+Vn 32.95 -6.54 -16.65 23.32 248.85 14.41
15 Bo +Eo 35.60 -5.65 -14.26 21.60 254.47 11.20
16 Bo +If+Eo 34.32 -4.30 -15.98 23.54 260.01 12.32
17 Bo +Rc+Eo 27.65 -5.36 -14.03 21.84 255.32 13.65
18 Bo +Pp+Eo 33.98 -6.54 -15.65 23.01 248.60 12.98
19 Bo +If+Rc+Eo 26.74 -5.81 -14.95 21.25 257.95 11.74
20 Bo +If+Pp+Eo 35.01 -4.90 -15.32 23.65 264.45 14.16
21 Bo +Rc+Pp+Eo 28.25 -5.65 -14.98 21.98 250.80 12.21
22 Bo +Ab 32.65 -6.40 -15.74 23.74 245.17 13.02
23 Bo +If+Ab 33.98 -5.15 -16.50 21.02 258.54 12.36
24 Bo +Rc+Ab 36.74 -4.62 -15.12 22.03 269.32 13.65
25 Bo +Pp+Ab 25.02 -4.30 -14.62 23.65 256.60 12.21
26 Bo +If+Rc+Ab 32.35 -4.69 -15.30 22.98 243.58 13.20
27 Bo +If+Pp+Ab 29.62 -5.87 -16.65 21.70 250.12 12.65
28 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ab 32.63 -6.54 -15.98 22.45 262.74 14.87
29 Bo +Ai 28.54 -5.80 -14.74 23.12 251.98 12.41
30 Bo +If+Ai 36.65 -4.46 -15.50 22.03 245.36 13.20
31 Bo +Rc+Ai 25.62 -5.53 -16.12 21.65 250.02 12.65
32 Bo +Pp+Ai 27.68 -6.32 -15.62 22.98 264.45 11.98
33 Bo +If+Rc+Ai 28.97 -5.65 -14.32 23.05 257.01 14.74
34 Bo +If+Pp+Ai 33.40 -4.98 -15.95 21.74 258.84 13.51
35 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ai 36.65 -5.88 -16.84 22.52 249.65 12.32
101
4.3.3 Terminalia Chebula (Tc) and its Combination on Silk Fabric


chebula on silk fabric in the intact form and in combination with other natural
terminalia chebula is green. There are various colors obtained with different
hues when Tc is mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.

are used in natural dyeing with Vn combination and the concentration of the
same is 2%, 0.5% and 0.5% respectively. The dye assistants sodium chloride
and potash alum with concentration 1% and 0.5% is used in combination of
Bo with Eo, Ab and Ai. The first level of combination required sodium
chloride and potash alum of 1 and 0.5% to give best result. The temperature
was maintained at 60° for Tc dye alone, and for the combination dyeing the
temperature was varied from low to high level for good dyeing. The duration
of the natural dyeing is 30 minutes for the terminalia chebula dye alone
whereas the duration increases there afterwards based on the combination and
results needed.
102


1 Tc 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 30 Green
3 Tc +Rc 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Yellow
8 Tc +Vn 2 Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 60 Green
14 Tc+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 2 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Bluish green le
15 Tc +Eo 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Green
21 Tc +(Rc+Pp)+Eo 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Bluish green
22 Tc +Ab 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 70 60 Green
28 Tc +(Rc+Pp)+Ab 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Bluish green
29 Tc +Ai 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Green
103
4.3.3.1 Color fastness property of Tc dyed silk fabric
The results of the fastness properties of Tc dyed silk fabric are

shown in Table 4.34. There is a good light fastness value of average 4. The
wash fastness on Tc dyed silk fabric for both color change and color stain is
very good. Tc dyed silk fabric gave good rubbing fastness in dry state and fair
ratings in wet condition with 4 and 2-3 respectively. In both wet and dry
states of crocking fastness on Tc dyed fabric, the color change and color stain
values are more or less same.
4.3.3.2 Antimicrobial assessment of Tc dyed silk fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Tc natural dyed silk samples

are given in Table 4.35. The table shows that bacterial count of gram (+) and
gram (-) undyed silk samples are 1965 and 1982 respectively. The bacterial
counts of gram (+) and gram (-) ranges about 600-800 for dyed samples with
not much difference. In both the cases, the reduction% of microbial growth
has an average of 65%. The combination dyeing on silk fabric using Tc has
only marginal effect.
104
Table 4.34 Color fastness ratings of terminalia chebula (Tc) combination

on silk fabric

Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Tc 3-4 3-4 4 3 2-3 4 3-4
2 Tc +If 3-4 4 3-4 3 2-3 4-5 3-4
3 Tc +Rc 4 4 3-4 3 3 4-5 4
4 Tc +Pp 3-4 3-4 4-5 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
5 Tc +If+Rc 3-4 3-4 4-5 2-3 2-3 3-4 3-4
6 Tc +If+Pp 4-5 4-5 4 3 3 3-4 4-5
7 Tc +Rc+Pp 4-5 4-5 3-4 3 3 4 4-5
8 Tc +Vn 3-4 4 3-4 2-3 2-3 3-4 4
9 Tc +If+Vn 4-5 4 4-5 3 3 3-4 3-4
10 Tc +Rc+Vn 4 3-4 4-5 3 2-3 4-5 3-4
11 Tc +Pp+Vn 3-4 3-4 3-4 2-3 3 4 4-5
12 Tc +If+Rc+Vn 3-4 4-5 4-5 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
13 Tc +If+Pp+Vn 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 2-3 3-4 3-4
14 Tc +Rc+Pp+Vn 4 4 3-4 2-3 2-3 3-4 4
15 Tc +Eo 3-4 3-4 4 3 3 4-5 3-4
16 Tc +If+Eo 3-4 4-5 3-4 3 3 3-4 4-5
17 Tc +Rc+Eo 3-4 4-5 4 2-3 3 3-4 4
18 Tc +Pp+Eo 4-5 3-4 4-5 2-3 2-3 4 4
19 Tc +If+Rc+Eo 4 4-5 4-5 2-3 3 4-5 3-4
20 Tc +If+Pp+Eo 4-5 4-5 4-5 3 2-3 3-4 4
21 Tc +Rc+Pp+Eo 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 3 3-4 4-5
22 Tc +Ab 3-4 3-4 3-4 2-3 3 4-5 4-5
23 Tc +If+Ab 4 4 4 2-3 2-3 3-4 3-4
24 Tc +Rc+Ab 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 3 4 3-4
25 Tc +Pp+Ab 3-4 4 4 3 3 3-4 4
26 Tc +If+Rc+Ab 3-4 3-4 4 3 3 4-5 4-5
27 Tc +If+Pp+Ab 3-4 4-5 3-4 2-3 2-3 3-4 4-5
28 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ab 4 4-5 4-5 2-3 2-3 3-4 4
29 Tc +Ai 4 3-4 4-5 3 3 3-4 3-4
30 Tc +If+Ai 3-4 4 4 3 2-3 4 3-4
31 Tc +Rc+Ai 3-4 4-5 3-4 2-3 3 4 4
32 Tc +Pp+Ai 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 2-3 3-4 3-4
33 Tc +If+Rc+Ai 4-5 4-5 4-5 2-3 3 4 4-5
34 Tc +If+Pp+Ai 3-4 4-5 4 2-3 2-3 3-4 3-4
35 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ai 3-4 4 3-4 3 3 4-5 3-4
105

Natural Dye B.C B.C %R %R

S.No.
Application gram(+)ive gram(- )ive gram(+)ive gram(-)ive
Undyed 1965 1982 - -
1 Tc 654 695 66.71756 64.93441
2 Tc +If 614 669 68.75318 66.24622
3 Tc +Rc 625 636 68.19338 67.9112
4 Tc +Pp 695 615 64.63104 68.97074
5 Tc +If+Rc 624 684 68.24427 65.4894
6 Tc +If+Pp 762 785 61.22137 60.39354
7 Tc +Rc+Pp 623 796 68.29517 59.83855
8 Tc +Vn 769 725 60.86514 63.42079
9 Tc +If+Vn 658 795 66.51399 59.889
10 Tc +Rc+Vn 774 685 60.61069 65.43895
11 Tc +Pp+Vn 714 774 63.66412 60.94854
12 Tc +If+Rc+Vn 725 659 63.10433 66.75076
13 Tc +If+Pp+Vn 795 769 59.54198 61.20081
14 Tc +Rc+Pp+Vn 736 637 62.54453 67.86075
15 Tc +Eo 625 759 68.19338 61.70535
16 Tc +If+Eo 635 785 67.68448 60.39354
17 Tc +Rc+Eo 648 788 67.0229 60.24218
18 Tc +Pp+Eo 695 769 64.63104 61.20081
19 Tc +If+Rc+Eo 615 655 68.70229 66.95257
20 Tc +If+Pp+Eo 736 726 62.54453 63.37033
21 Tc +Rc+Pp+Eo 696 695 64.58015 64.93441
22 Tc +Ab 732 785 62.74809 60.39354
23 Tc +If+Ab 615 736 68.70229 62.86579
24 Tc +Rc+Ab 759 725 61.37405 63.42079
25 Tc +Pp+Ab 625 614 68.19338 69.02119
26 Tc +If+Rc+Ab 695 715 64.63104 63.92533
27 Tc +If+Pp+Ab 647 695 67.07379 64.93441
28 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ab 658 685 66.51399 65.43895
29 Tc +Ai 754 774 61.6285 60.94854
30 Tc +If+Ai 655 696 66.66667 64.88396
31 Tc +Rc+Ai 759 736 61.37405 62.86579
32 Tc +Pp+Ai 626 695 68.14249 64.93441
33 Tc +If+Rc+Ai 758 714 61.42494 63.97578
34 Tc +If+Pp+Ai 625 685 68.19338 65.43895
35 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ai 796 729 58.49109 63.21897
106
4.3.3.3 K/S analysis of Tc dyed silk fabric
The K/S values of Tc natural dyed silk fabric are given in

as good color strength value for textile dyeing. The terminalia chebula itself
gives good color strength value on silk fabric. The combination of Tc on
other natural sources applied on silk fabric shows marginal average increase
of color strength value.
4.3.4 Punica Granatum (Pg) and its Combination on Silk Fabric for

granatum on silk fabric in the intact form and in combination with other
hues when Pg is mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.

were used in natural dyeing with Vn combination and the concentration of the
same was 1%, 0.5% and 0.5% respectively. The dye assistants sodium
chloride and potash alum with 0.5% concentration was used in combination of
Pg with Eo, Ab and Ai. The first level of combination required only sodium
chloride of 0.5% for best result. The temperature was maintained at 60° for Pg
low to high level for good dyeing effect. The duration of the natural dyeing is
30 minutes for the punica granatum dye alone whereas the duration increases
there afterwards based on the combination and results needed.
107
Table 4.36 Colorimetric data of terminalia chebula (Tc) combination

on silk fabric
S. Natural Dye
L* a* b* C h K/S
No. Application
1 Tc 36.65 -5.98 -14.65 22.60 255.65 13.20
2 Tc +If 35.98 -4.65 -15.84 23.20 250.62 14.21
3 Tc +Rc 34.21 -5.32 -16.12 22.14 252.84 13.74
4 Tc +Pp 32.40 -6.74 -15.63 21.54 241.54 12.84
5 Tc +If+Rc 33.58 -5.85 -14.66 22.80 254.32 14.95
6 Tc +If+Pp 26.95 -4.15 -15.41 23.66 267.52 12.36
7 Tc +Rc+Pp 35.60 -5.65 -16.23 22.93 258.12 13.20
8 Tc +Vn 27.32 -6.98 -15.65 21.83 249.52 12.51
9 Tc +If+Vn 32.65 -5.74 -15.98 22.30 256.98 14.74
10 Tc +Rc+Vn 25.06 -4.12 -15.02 23.54 265.36 12.98
11 Tc +Pp+Vn 28.48 -5.65 -14.14 21.87 243.25 13.30
12 Tc +If+Rc+Vn 26.56 -6.30 -15.87 23.95 260.10 12.62
13 Tc +If+Pp+Vn 35.98 -5.25 -16.21 21.62 242.74 14.95
14 Tc +Rc+Pp+Vn 26.62 -4.95 -15.56 23.31 265.98 12.74
15 Tc +Eo 32.30 -5.08 -16.30 21.54 254.65 12.38
16 Tc +If+Eo 27.65 -5.65 -14.65 22.80 244.32 14.02
17 Tc +Rc+Eo 33.98 -5.98 -16.98 23.45 258.21 12.54
18 Tc +Pp+Eo 36.40 -6.70 -14.74 22.60 249.45 13.65
19 Tc +If+Rc+Eo 32.50 -5.45 -15.50 21.32 265.87 12.64
20 Tc +If+Pp+Eo 35.21 -4.60 -14.32 22.65 246.54 14.05
21 Tc +Rc+Pp+Eo 34.57 -5.32 -15.65 23.98 253.21 12.32
22 Tc +Ab 32.56 -6.65 -16.90 22.76 242.30 13.54
23 Tc +If+Ab 33.95 -5.98 -15.87 21.60 261.52 14.28
24 Tc +Rc+Ab 26.62 -4.74 -16.45 23.41 244.74 12.95
25 Tc +Pp+Ab 25.35 -5.65 -15.62 21.52 267.84 14.62
26 Tc +If+Rc+Ab 28.21 -6.23 -14.02 23.80 248.65 12.95
27 Tc +If+Pp+Ab 27.54 -5.65 -15.65 21.65 255.30 14.75
28 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ab 33.87 -4.06 -15.15 22.32 266.52 12.84
29 Tc +Ai 26.65 -5.98 -14.65 21.09 253.01 13.95
30 Tc +If+Ai 35.32 -6.74 -15.98 22.70 242.74 12.65
31 Tc +Rc+Ai 28.65 -5.04 -16.20 23.54 250.98 11.32
32 Tc +Pp+Ai 35.98 -4.56 -15.30 22.65 264.65 14.20
33 Tc +If+Rc+Ai 32.52 -5.65 -14.32 21.32 255.30 12.71
34 Tc +If+Pp+Ai 36.62 -5.98 -16.65 22.04 246.21 13.84
35 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ai 33.32 -4.32 -15.51 23.50 255.54 12.65
108


1 Pg 0.5 Pr - - - - 60 30 Brown
2 Pg +If 0.5 Pr - - - - +32 60 purple
3 Pg +Rc 0.5 Pr - - - - +60 60 Reddish brown
4 Pg +Pp 0.5 Pr - - - - +70 60 Purple
5 Pg +Rc+If 0.5 Pr - - - - +60 90 Reddish brown
6 Pg +Pp+If 0.5 Pr - - - - +70 90 Reddish brown
7 Pg + (Rc+Pp) 0.5 Pr - - - - +70 60 Reddish purple
8 Pg +Vn 1 Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 60 Brown
9 Pg +Vn+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 90 purple
10 Pg +Rc+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Purple
11 Pg +Pp+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish brown
12 Pg+(Rc+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish brown
13 Pg+(Pp+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish brown
14 Pg+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish purple
15 Pg +Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Brown
22 Pg +Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 70 60 Brown
29 Pg +Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Brown
109
4.3.4.1 Color fastness property of Pg dyed silk fabric
The results of the fastness properties of Pg dyed silk fabric are

shown in Table 4.38. The table indicates that the light fastness of Pg dyed silk
samples are good with an average value of 4. The washing fastness of the
natural dyed silk sample gave good average ratings of 4 for both color change
and color stain parameters. Crocking fastness of the Pg dyed silk sample was
tested under dry and wet condition separately and the color change and
staining parameters for dry state was found to be better than wet state by
recording 4 and 2-3 respectively.
4.3.4.2 Antimicrobial assessment of Pg dyed silk fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Pg natural dyed silk samples

are given in Table 4.39. The bacterial count of gram (+) and gram (-) undyed
silk samples are 1936 and 1979 respectively. From this it is evident that there
is a slight deviation in the number of bacterial counts in gram (+) and gram
(-). The bacterial count of gram (+) and gram (-) Pg dyed silk samples ranges
about 600-700 and 650-750 respectively. Depending on the number of
bacterial count, the reduction percentage also deviates slightly by recording
an average of 66% and 64% of gram (+) and gram (-) respectively. The
average reduction percentage is marginally increased for the combination
dyeing of Pg with other natural sources on silk fabric.
110

on silk fabric

Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Pg 4-5 3-4 4 2-3 3 4 4-5
2 Pg +If 4-5 3-4 4 2-3 3 4-5 3-4
3 Pg +Rc 3-4 4-5 3-4 2-3 3 4-5 3-4
4 Pg +Pp 3-4 4-5 3-4 3 3 3-4 4
5 Pg +If+Rc 3-4 4 4-5 3 2-3 3-4 4-5
6 Pg +If+Pp 3-4 4 3-4 3 2-3 4 4-5
7 Pg +Rc+Pp 3-4 3-4 4-5 3 3 3-4 3-4
8 Pg +Vn 4 3-4 4-5 3 3 3-4 4
9 Pg +If+Vn 3-4 3-4 4-5 2-3 2-3 4-5 4
10 Pg +Rc+Vn 3-4 4-5 3-4 2-3 2-3 4-5 3-4
11 Pg +Pp+Vn 4 4 3-4 3 3 4 3-4
12 Pg +If+Rc+Vn 4 4 4 3 2-3 3-4 3-4
13 Pg +If+Pp+Vn 3-4 3-4 4 3 3 4 4
14 Pg +Rc+Pp+Vn 3-4 4-5 3-4 2-3 3 4 4-5
15 Pg +Eo 3-4 4 3-4 3 3 4-5 4-5
16 Pg +If+Eo 4-5 3-4 4 2-3 2-3 4-5 3-4
17 Pg +Rc+Eo 4-5 4-5 4-5 3 3 3-4 4-5
18 Pg +Pp+Eo 3-4 4 4-5 2-3 2-3 3-4 3-4
19 Pg +If+Rc+Eo 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 3 4 4-5
20 Pg +If+Pp+Eo 3-4 3-4 4 3 3 3-4 3-4
21 Pg +Rc+Pp+Eo 4 4 3-4 3 3 4-5 4
22 Pg +Ab 4 4-5 4 2-3 2-3 4-5 4-5
23 Pg +If+Ab 3-4 4-5 3-4 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
24 Pg +Rc+Ab 3-4 3-4 4 3 3 3-4 4-5
25 Pg +Pp+Ab 3-4 4-5 4 2-3 3 3-4 4-5
26 Pg +If+Rc+Ab 3-4 3-4 4-5 3 2-3 3-4 4
27 Pg +If+Pp+Ab 4 3-4 4-5 3 3 4 4
28 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ab 3-4 4-5 3-4 3 2-3 4 4
29 Pg +Ai 4-5 4 3-4 2-3 3 4-5 3-4
30 Pg +If+Ai 3-4 4 4-5 2-3 3 4-5 3-4
31 Pg +Rc+Ai 3-4 4 4-5 2-3 2-3 3-4 4-5
32 Pg +Pp+Ai 4-5 3-4 3-4 3 3 3-4 4-5
33 Pg +If+Rc+Ai 4 3-4 3-4 3 2-3 4 4
34 Pg +If+Pp+Ai 3-4 4 4 3 2-3 3-4 3-4
35 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ai 3-4 4 4 3 3 4 4
111


No. Application Gram(+)ive gram(- )ive gram(+)ive gram(-)ive
Undyed 1936 1979 - -
1 Pg 695 798 64.10124 59.6766
2 Pg +If 745 754 61.5186 61.89995
3 Pg +Rc 715 714 63.06818 63.92117
4 Pg +Pp 725 725 62.55165 63.36534
5 Pg +If+Rc 736 795 61.98347 59.8282
6 Pg +If+Pp 695 725 64.10124 63.36534
7 Pg +Rc+Pp 695 774 64.10124 60.88934
8 Pg +Vn 765 795 60.48554 59.8282
9 Pg +If+Vn 638 665 67.04545 66.39717
10 Pg +Rc+Vn 752 725 61.15702 63.36534
11 Pg +Pp+Vn 651 763 66.37397 61.44517
12 Pg +If+Rc+Vn 654 669 66.21901 66.19505
13 Pg +If+Pp+Vn 748 741 61.36364 62.55685
14 Pg +Rc+Pp+Vn 785 659 59.45248 66.70035
15 Pg +Eo 795 715 58.93595 63.87064
16 Pg +If+Eo 732 695 62.19008 64.88125
17 Pg +Rc+Eo 665 725 65.65083 63.36534
18 Pg +Pp+Eo 714 736 63.11983 62.8095
19 Pg +If+Rc+Eo 698 796 63.94628 59.77767
20 Pg +If+Pp+Eo 615 614 68.23347 68.97423
21 Pg +Rc+Pp+Eo 625 615 67.71694 68.9237
22 Pg +Ab 765 785 60.48554 60.3335
23 Pg +If+Ab 695 674 64.10124 65.9424
24 Pg +Rc+Ab 714 785 63.11983 60.3335
25 Pg +Pp+Ab 624 795 67.7686 59.8282
26 Pg +If+Rc+Ab 726 665 62.5 66.39717
27 Pg +If+Pp+Ab 736 735 61.98347 62.86003
28 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ab 696 715 64.04959 63.87064
29 Pg +Ai 757 747 60.89876 62.25366
30 Pg +If+Ai 618 785 68.07851 60.3335
31 Pg +Rc+Ai 754 795 61.05372 59.8282
32 Pg +Pp+Ai 725 615 62.55165 68.9237
33 Pg +If+Rc+Ai 796 652 58.8843 67.05407
34 Pg +If+Pp+Ai 725 736 62.55165 62.8095
35 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ai 652 626 66.32231 68.36786
112
4.3.4.3 K/S analysis of Pg dyed silk fabric
The K/S values of Pg natural dyed silk fabric are given in

as good color strength value for silk dyeing. The terminalia chebula itself
gives good color strength value on silk fabric and also with combination dyes.
There is only a marginal average increase in the color strength of Pg
combination with other natural sources dyed on silk fabric.
4.3.5 Allium Cepa (Al) and its Combination on Silk Fabric for Shade
Variation and Functional Effect

silk fabric in the intact form and in combination with other natural ingredients
are shown in Table 4.41. Based on the various trials, the best obtained results
are only presented in this table with respect to the corresponding
concentration of dyeing assistants, temperature, time, and the type of
mordanting technique. The basic color obtained on silk fabric using allium
cepa is pink. There are various colors obtained with different hues when Al is
mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.

same was 1%, 0.5% and 0.5% respectively. The dye assistants sodium
Al with Eo, Ab and Ai. The first level of combination required sodium
chloride and potash alum of 0.5% for best result. The temperature was
maintained at 60° for Al dye alone, and for the combination dyeing the
of the natural dyeing is 30 minutes for the allium cepa dye alone whereas the
duration increases there afterwards based on the combination and results needed.
113

silk fabric
S. Natural Dye
L* a* b* C h K/S
No. Application
1 Pg 35.65 -6.65 -15.62 23.67 259.41 12.41
2 Pg +If 33.98 -5.98 -14.01 22.32 268.62 13.70
3 Pg +Rc 32.41 -5.12 -15.58 21.01 257.95 12.95
4 Pg +Pp 35.02 -6.62 -16.79 23.45 244.87 11.35
5 Pg +If+Rc 34.54 -5.30 -15.60 22.87 250.54 14.20
6 Pg +If+Pp 28.84 -4.54 -14.32 21.90 252.20 11.74
7 Pg +Rc+Pp 36.62 -5.87 -15.65 22.65 245.63 12.98
8 Pg +Vn 27.06 -6.80 -16.41 23.30 260.12 13.65
9 Pg +If+Vn 33.95 -5.50 -15.80 22.54 243.20 12.32
10 Pg +Rc+Vn 36.87 -4.62 -14.54 21.14 266.45 13.20
11 Pg +Pp+Vn 35.40 -5.60 -16.62 22.50 255.87 13.51
12 Pg +If+Rc+Vn 34.51 -6.54 -14.03 23.20 244.95 12.74
13 Pg +If+Pp+Vn 35.20 -5.87 -16.98 22.65 251.65 13.98
14 Pg +Rc+Pp+Vn 26.36 -4.90 -14.65 22.98 240.63 12.65
15 Pg +Eo 32.95 -4.45 -15.60 23.70 252.02 13.30
16 Pg +If+Eo 28.62 -4.65 -16.48 23.65 243.51 12.65
17 Pg +Rc+Eo 36.54 -5.87 -15.75 22.30 256.74 14.82
18 Pg +Pp+Eo 35.78 -6.54 -14.21 21.65 265.84 11.17
19 Pg +If+Rc+Eo 34.95 -5.12 -15.04 22.20 254.04 12.54
20 Pg +If+Pp+Eo 35.62 -5.65 -16.52 23.41 248.32 13.30
21 Pg +Rc+Pp+Eo 26.35 -6.30 -15.65 22.02 267.60 12.62
22 Pg +Ab 34.74 -5.65 -14.98 21.57 259.52 11.95
23 Pg +If+Ab 25.50 -4.98 -15.65 23.90 245.01 14.80
24 Pg +Rc+Ab 36.14 -5.74 -16.03 22.65 256.74 11.87
25 Pg +Pp+Ab 27.26 -6.51 -15.65 21.30 260.98 12.54
26 Pg +If+Rc+Ab 32.30 -5.03 -14.40 21.87 253.06 13.20
27 Pg +If+Pp+Ab 35.65 -4.65 -15.15 22.54 242.12 12.63
28 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ab 34.98 -5.98 -16.87 22.01 261.74 14.80
29 Pg +Ai 26.74 -6.50 -15.40 22.20 244.84 11.51
30 Pg +If+Ai 32.50 -5.46 -14.51 23.65 265.65 12.74
31 Pg +Rc+Ai 27.41 -5.32 -15.60 21.30 248.02 13.98
32 Pg +Pp+Ai 36.62 -5.65 -16.23 22.65 257.13 12.35
33 Pg +If+Rc+Ai 26.35 -6.98 -15.65 22.98 260.85 11.02
34 Pg +If+Pp+Ai 34.98 -5.74 -14.98 23.60 253.74 14.41
35 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ai 36.65 -4.51 -15.74 22.54 246.65 13.65
114
on silk fabric

1 Al 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 30 Pink
2 Al +If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish pink
3 Al +Rc 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Red
4 Al +Pp 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Green
5 Al +Rc+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
6 Al +Pp+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
7 Al + (Rc+Pp) 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Red
8 Al +Vn 1 Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 60 Pink
9 Al +Vn+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 90 Bluish pink
10 Al +Rc+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Green
11 Al +Pp+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
12 Al+(Rc+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
13 Al+(Pp+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
14 Al+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
15 Al +Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Pink
16 Al +Eo+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish pink
17 Al +Rc+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Red
18 Al +Pp+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Green
19 Al +(Rc+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
20 Al +(Pp+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
21 Al +(Rc+Pp)+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
22 Al +Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 70 60 Pink
23 Al +Ab+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 90 Bluish pink
24 Al +Rc+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
25 Al +Pp+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Green
26 Al +(Rc+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
27 Al +(Pp+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
28 Al +(Rc+Pp)+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
29 Al +Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Pink
30 Al +Ai+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish pink
31 Al +Rc+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Red
32 Al +Pp+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Green
33 Al +(Rc+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
34 Al +(Pp+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
35 Al +(Rc+Pp)+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
115
4.3.5.1 Color fastness property of Al dyed silk fabric
The results of the fastness properties of Al dyed silk fabric are

shown in Table 4.42. The results indicate that the light fastness of Al dyed
silk samples recorded an average range of 4 which is considered to be good.
The washing fastness of the dyed sample tested for color change and staining
property also showed good average range of 4. The dyed silk samples gave
fastness ratings of about 2-3 and 4 for wet and dry conditions of rubbing
fastness. The dyed silk samples seemed to give good effect in dry state when
compared to wet condition. The differences between color change and color
stain in both wet and dry crocking fastness on Al dyed silk fabric is not
significant.
4.3.5.2 Antimicrobial assessment of Al dyed silk fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Al natural dyed silk samples

are shown in Table 4.43. The table indicates that the bacterial count of gram
(+) and gram (-) of undyed silk samples are 2189 and 2157 respectively. From
this it is evident that there is not much difference in the microbial attack of
gram (+) and gram (-). The average bacterial counts of gram (+) and gram (-)
ranges for 700-850 on dyed Al combinations samples. The average reduction
percentage of Al combination natural sources in both the cases of gram (+)
and gram (-) microbial attack on silk fabric is marginally increased.
116
Table 4.42 Color fastness ratings of allium cepa (Al) combination on

silk fabric

Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Al 3-4 3-4 4 3 2-3 4 4-5
2 Al +If 3-4 4 4-5 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
3 Al +Rc 4 3-4 4-5 3 3 3-4 3-4
4 Al +Pp 3-4 3-4 3-4 2-3 2-3 4-5 3-4
5 Al +If+Rc 4-5 4-5 3-4 2-3 2-3 4-5 4
6 Al +If+Pp 3-4 4 4 3 3 4-5 4-5
7 Al +Rc+Pp 3-4 3-4 4-5 2-3 3 3-4 4-5
8 Al +Vn 4 4-5 3-4 3 2-3 3-4 3-4
9 Al +If+Vn 4-5 3-4 4 2-3 3 4 4
10 Al +Rc+Vn 3-4 4-5 3-4 2-3 3 3-4 4
11 Al +Pp+Vn 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 3 3-4 3-4
12 Al +If+Rc+Vn 3-4 4-5 4 3 2-3 4-5 4-5
13 Al +If+Pp+Vn 4 4 4-5 2-3 2-3 3-4 4-5
14 Al +Rc+Pp+Vn 3-4 4 3-4 3 3 4 3-4
15 Al +Eo 4-5 3-4 3-4 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
16 Al +If+Eo 3-4 3-4 4-5 3 3 3-4 4-5
17 Al +Rc+Eo 3-4 4-5 3-4 3 2-3 4 4
18 Al +Pp+Eo 3-4 4 4 2-3 2-3 3-4 3-4
19 Al +If+Rc+Eo 4 3-4 4-5 2-3 3 4-5 3-4
20 Al +If+Pp+Eo 4-5 3-4 4-5 3 3 3-4 4
21 Al +Rc+Pp+Eo 3-4 4-5 3-4 3 3 3-4 3-4
22 Al +Ab 4-5 3-4 3-4 3 2-3 3-4 4-5
23 Al +If+Ab 3-4 4 4 2-3 2-3 4-5 4-5
24 Al +Rc+Ab 4 4 3-4 2-3 3 4-5 3-4
25 Al +Pp+Ab 3-4 3-4 4-5 3 3 3-4 4
26 Al +If+Rc+Ab 4 4-5 4-5 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
27 Al +If+Pp+Ab 3-4 3-4 4 3 3 3-4 4-5
28 Al +Rc+Pp+Ab 3-4 4-5 3-4 3 2-3 4-5 3-4
29 Al +Ai 3-4 4-5 4-5 2-3 3 3-4 4-5
30 Al +If+Ai 4-5 3-4 3-4 3 3 4 4-5
31 Al +Rc+Ai 4 3-4 4 2-3 3 3-4 3-4
32 Al +Pp+Ai 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 2-3 4-5 3-4
33 Al +If+Rc+Ai 3-4 4 3-4 2-3 3 4-5 4
34 Al +If+Pp+Ai 3-4 3-4 4-5 3 3 3-4 3-4
35 Al +Rc+Pp+Ai 4 3-4 4-5 2-3 2-3 4 4-5
117

on silk fabric

Undyed 2189 2157 - -
1 Al 784 785 64.18456 63.60686
2 Al +If 758 796 65.37232 63.09689
3 Al +Rc 756 756 65.46368 64.95132
4 Al +Pp 759 758 65.32663 64.8586
5 Al +If+Rc 752 745 65.64641 65.46129
6 Al +If+Pp 832 712 61.99178 66.99119
7 Al +Rc+Pp 768 723 64.91549 66.48122
8 Al +Vn 811 769 62.95112 64.34863
9 Al +If+Vn 736 795 66.37734 63.14325
10 Al +Rc+Vn 854 875 60.98675 59.4344
11 Al +Pp+Vn 778 715 64.45866 66.85211
12 Al +If+Rc+Vn 758 848 65.37232 60.68614
13 Al +If+Pp+Vn 856 736 60.89539 65.87854
14 Al +Rc+Pp+Vn 759 895 65.32663 58.50719
15 Al +Eo 836 784 61.80905 63.65322
16 Al +If+Eo 852 714 61.07812 66.89847
17 Al +Rc+Eo 741 825 66.14893 61.75243
18 Al +Pp+Eo 725 878 66.87985 59.29532
19 Al +If+Rc+Eo 765 898 65.05254 58.3681
20 Al +If+Pp+Eo 836 766 61.80905 64.48771
21 Al +Rc+Pp+Eo 754 836 65.55505 61.24247
22 Al +Ab 858 759 60.80402 64.81224
23 Al +If+Ab 756 765 65.46368 64.53408
24 Al +Rc+Ab 885 847 59.57058 60.7325
25 Al +Pp+Ab 795 875 63.68205 59.4344
26 Al +If+Rc+Ab 762 861 65.18958 60.08345
27 Al +If+Pp+Ab 754 736 65.55505 65.87854
28 Al +Rc+Pp+Ab 812 845 62.90544 60.82522
29 Al +Ai 752 715 65.64641 66.85211
30 Al +If+Ai 836 875 61.80905 59.4344
31 Al +Rc+Ai 725 795 66.87985 63.14325
32 Al +Pp+Ai 895 778 59.11375 63.93139
33 Al +If+Rc+Ai 765 745 65.05254 65.46129
34 Al +If+Pp+Ai 735 765 66.42302 64.53408
35 Al +Rc+Pp+Ai 715 825 67.33668 61.75243
4.3.5.3 K/S analysis of Al dyed silk fabric
The K/S values for Al natural dyed silk fabric are given in
118
as good color strength value for good dyeing of textiles. The color strength is
considerably good on silk fabric dyed by Al alone and by its combination
with other natural sources.
Table 4.44 Colorimetric data of allium cepa (Al) combination on silk fabric
S. Natural Dye
L* a* b* C h K/S
No. Application
1 Al 26.65 -5.65 -14.65 23.75 256.65 12.62
2 Al +If 36.98 -4.98 -15.40 22.84 242.30 11.51
3 Al +Rc 25.41 -5.29 -16.21 21.98 254.62 14.74
4 Al +Pp 32.05 -6.45 -14.51 22.65 261.95 12.84
5 Al +If+Rc 34.62 -5.63 -16.30 23.30 250.85 13.42
6 Al +If+Pp 35.30 -4.25 -14.63 22.62 242.70 12.30
7 Al +Rc+Pp 36.65 -5.40 -15.86 22.24 255.98 13.62
8 Al +Vn 32.98 -6.15 -14.64 21.15 264.20 12.95
9 Al +If+Vn 33.70 -6.87 -15.65 23.47 268.51 13.75
10 Al +Rc+Vn 35.54 -6.95 -16.4 21.95 257.74 12.84
11 Al +Pp+Vn 27.60 -5.60 -15.12 23.86 244.98 14.41
12 Al +If+Rc+Vn 32.32 -4.32 -14.80 21.35 255.30 11.30
13 Al +If+Pp+Vn 28.65 -5.54 -15.74 22.42 249.62 12.32
14 Al +Rc+Pp+Vn 35.84 -6.87 -16.60 23.61 266.85 13.62
15 Al +Eo 29.50 -5.02 -14.32 22.95 252.47 12.95
16 Al +If+Eo 36.65 -4.65 -16.65 21.57 243.01 14.85
17 Al +Rc+Eo 35.30 -5.98 -14.98 22.04 260.52 11.75
18 Al +Pp+Eo 34.25 -6.52 -16.74 21.98 242.98 12.15
19 Al +If+Rc+Eo 32.14 -5.65 -14.05 23.65 251.36 13.40
20 Al +If+Pp+Eo 33.84 -4.35 -15.62 21.05 264.20 12.52
21 Al +Rc+Pp+Eo 36.95 -5.24 -16.30 23.74 255.51 14.96
22 Al +Ab 35.60 -6.32 -15.54 22.98 248.74 11.48
23 Al +If+Ab 27.24 -4.955 -14.12 21.65 257.98 12.57
24 Al +Rc+Ab 32.65 -5.65 -15.62 22.02 264.48 13.04
25 Al +Pp+Ab 25.98 -6.95 -16.90 23.63 255.55 12.32
26 Al +If+Rc+Ab 32.70 -5.22 -15.32 22.50 248.41 11.96
27 Al +If+Pp+Ab 33.15 -4.96 -14.60 21.21 259.30 14.85
28 Al +Rc+Pp+Ab 36.65 -5.24 -15.54 22.40 266.62 11.51
29 Al +Ai 35.32 -5.01 -16.97 23.87 253.95 14.74
30 Al +If+Ai 34.02 -4.85 -15.80 21.54 240.84 12.98
31 Al +Rc+Ai 28.59 -5.96 -14.60 22.32 252.06 13.65
32 Al +Pp+Ai 35.98 -5.02 -15.40 23.60 265.12 14.20
33 Al +If+Rc+Ai 36.84 -5.45 -15.12 22.65 254.74 12.41
34 Al +If+Pp+Ai 32.65 -4.95 -14.60 21.87 241.48 14.75
35 Al +Rc+Pp+Ai 33.32 -5.26 -15.30 22.65 258.56 13.65
119
4.3.6 Citrus Paradise (Cp) and its Combination on Silk Fabric for

on silk fabric in the intact form and in combination with other natural
when Cp is mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.

were used in natural dyeing of Cp with Vn combination and the concentration
of the same was 1%, 0.5% and 0.5% respectively. The dye assistants sodium
Cp with Eo, Ab and Ai. The first level of combination required sodium
maintained at 60° for Cp dye alone, and for the combination dyeing the
result. The duration of the natural dyeing is 30 minutes for the citrus paradisi
dye alone whereas the duration increases there afterwards based on the
120
Table 4.45 Application method of citrus paradisi (Cp) and its


1 Cp 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 30 purple
8 Cp +Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 60 purple
15 Cp +Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 purple
22 Cp +Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 70 60 purple
29 Cp +Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 purple
121
4.3.6.1 Color fastness property of Cp dyed silk fabric
The determined light, washing and rubbing fastness of the Cp dyed

silk fabric is shown in Table 4.46. The light fastness ratings of the dyed
samples recorded a moderate range of 3-4 which is considered and accepted
as a good range for natural dyed samples. There is very good washing fastness
on Cp dyed silk fabric for both color change and color stain parameters. The
crocking fastness is very good in dry condition compared to the wet condition
(poor 2 to moderate 3), and there is no significant change between color
change and color stain values.
4.3.6.2 Antimicrobial assessment of Cp dyed silk fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Cp natural dyed silk

samples are given in Table 4.47. The values show that bacterial count of gram
(+) and gram (-) undyed silk samples are 2067 and 2108 respectively. The
average bacterial count of both gram (+) and gram (-) dyed silk samples
ranges about 700. The reduction% of bacterial count of gram (+) and gram (-)
recorded an average of 65% and the samples dyed in combination with Pp
gave good reduction% than any other combination.
122

on silk fabric

Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Cp 3-4 4-5 3-4 3 3 3-4 4-5
2 Cp +If 3-4 4-5 3-4 2-3 3 3-4 3-4
3 Cp +Rc 4 3-4 4 2-3 2-3 4-5 3-4
4 Cp +Pp 3-4 4 4-5 3 3 4-5 4-5
5 Cp +If+Rc 4-5 3-4 3-4 2-3 2-3 4 4
6 Cp +If+Pp 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 2-3 3-4 3-4
7 Cp +Rc+Pp 3-4 4-5 4 2-3 3 4 4-5
8 Cp +Vn 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 3 4 3-4
9 Cp +If+Vn 3-4 4 4-5 3 2-3 3-4 4
10 Cp +Rc+Vn 4 3-4 4-5 2-3 3 3-4 4
11 Cp +Pp+Vn 3-4 3-4 3-4 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
12 Cp +If+Rc+Vn 4 4-5 3-4 2-3 2-3 3-4 4
13 Cp +If+Pp+Vn 3-4 4 4-5 3 3 4-5 4-5
14 Cp +Rc+Pp+Vn 3-4 3-4 4 2-3 3 4-5 3-4
15 Cp +Eo 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 2-3 4 3-4
16 Cp +If+Eo 4-5 3-4 3-4 3 3 3-4 4-5
17 Cp +Rc+Eo 3-4 4-5 4-5 2-3 3 3-4 3-4
18 Cp +Pp+Eo 3-4 3-4 4 2-3 2-3 4-5 4-5
19 Cp +If+Rc+Eo 4-5 4 3-4 3 2-3 4-5 4
20 Cp +If+Pp+Eo 4-5 4 4-5 3 2-3 3-4 3-4
21 Cp +Rc+Pp+Eo 3-4 4-5 3-4 2-3 3 4 3-4
22 Cp +Ab 3-4 4-5 4-5 2-3 3 3-4 3-4
23 Cp +If+Ab 3-4 3-4 4-5 3 3 4 4
24 Cp +Rc+Ab 4 3-4 4-5 2-3 3 3-4 4-5
25 Cp +Pp+Ab 4 4 4 3 2-3 4-5 4-5
26 Cp +If+Rc+Ab 3-4 3-4 4 2-3 3 4-5 4-5
27 Cp +If+Pp+Ab 3-4 4-5 4 2-3 2-3 3-4 3-4
28 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ab 4-5 3-4 3-4 3 3 4 3-4
29 Cp +Ai 3-4 4-5 3-4 3 2-3 3-4 4
30 Cp +If+Ai 3-4 4-5 3-4 2-3 3 4-5 3-4
31 Cp +Rc+Ai 4-5 3-4 4 3 2-3 3-4 4-5
32 Cp +Pp+Ai 3-4 4-5 4-5 3 3 4 3-4
33 Cp +If+Rc+Ai 3-4 3-4 4 3 3 4 4
34 Cp +If+Pp+Ai 4 4 3-4 2-3 3 3-4 3-4
35 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ai 4-5 4 3-4 3 2-3 4-5 4
123
Table 4.47 Antimicrobial assessment of citrus paradisi (Cp)


Undyed 2067 2108 - -
1 Cp 748 665 63.81229 68.45351
2 Cp +If 745 684 63.95743 67.55218
3 Cp +Rc 787 675 61.9255 67.97913
4 Cp +Pp 714 612 65.45718 70.96774
5 Cp +If+Rc 785 695 62.02225 67.03036
6 Cp +If+Pp 765 735 62.98984 65.13283
7 Cp +Rc+Pp 798 636 61.39332 69.82922
8 Cp +Vn 745 759 63.95743 63.99431
9 Cp +If+Vn 712 662 65.55394 68.59583
10 Cp +Rc+Vn 728 742 64.77987 64.80076
11 Cp +Pp+Vn 669 615 67.63425 70.82543
12 Cp +If+Rc+Vn 662 796 67.97291 62.23909
13 Cp +If+Pp+Vn 636 645 69.23077 69.40228
14 Cp +Rc+Pp+Vn 698 715 66.23125 66.08159
15 Cp +Eo 774 785 62.55443 62.76091
16 Cp +If+Eo 618 774 70.1016 63.28273
17 Cp +Rc+Eo 695 612 66.37639 70.96774
18 Cp +Pp+Eo 715 795 65.40881 62.28653
19 Cp +If+Rc+Eo 654 636 68.35994 69.82922
20 Cp +If+Pp+Eo 745 796 63.95743 62.23909
21 Cp +Rc+Pp+Eo 745 641 63.95743 69.59203
22 Cp +Ab 799 784 61.34494 62.80835
23 Cp +If+Ab 768 655 62.8447 68.92789
24 Cp +Rc+Ab 645 781 68.79536 62.95066
25 Cp +Pp+Ab 685 759 66.86018 63.99431
26 Cp +If+Rc+Ab 714 725 65.45718 65.60721
27 Cp +If+Pp+Ab 669 736 67.63425 65.08539
28 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ab 765 695 62.98984 67.03036
29 Cp +Ai 715 684 65.40881 67.55218
30 Cp +If+Ai 648 774 68.65022 63.28273
31 Cp +Rc+Ai 775 659 62.50605 68.73814
32 Cp +Pp+Ai 632 752 69.42429 64.32638
33 Cp +If+Rc+Ai 755 663 63.47363 68.54839
34 Cp +If+Pp+Ai 754 758 63.52201 64.04175
35 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ai 755 715 63.47363 66.08159
4.3.6.3 K/S analysis of Cp dyed silk fabric
The K/S values for Cp natural dyed silk fabric are shown in
124
as good color strength value, for dyeing of silk fabric. There is no

considerable increase in the color strength of Cp combination on silk fabric.

silk fabric
S. Natural Dye
L* a* b* C h K/S
No. Application
1 Cp 36.65 -5.65 -15.65 22.65 255.84 13.30
2 Cp +If 36.84 -4.98 -16.98 21.50 246.30 12.62
3 Cp +Rc 34.05 -5.41 -15.74 22.21 252.01 12.85
4 Cp +Pp 35.62 -6.50 -14.01 23.54 261.74 11.74
5 Cp +If+Rc 36.03 -6.26 -15.52 22.80 245.95 12.95
6 Cp +If+Pp 27.65 -6.32 -16.60 21.65 258.85 12.33
7 Cp +Rc+Pp 26.90 -4.65 -15.32 23.98 267.34 14.62
8 Cp +Vn 26.74 -5.90 -14.09 22.60 244.60 11.95
9 Cp +If+Vn 35.51 -6.87 -15.55 21.32 250.95 12.75
10 Cp +Rc+Vn 27.02 -5.54 -16.65 23.50 262.65 13.84
11 Cp +Pp+Vn 35.56 -4.20 -15.97 21.47 253.10 12.32
12 Cp +If+Rc+Vn 26.98 -5.14 -14.40 23.85 246.74 14.60
13 Cp +If+Pp+Vn 32.60 -6.54 -16.51 21.20 255.54 11.12
14 Cp +Rc+Pp+Vn 33.32 -5.85 -14.20 23.41 269.32 12.40
15 Cp +Eo 36.65 -4.62 -16.36 21.56 250.60 13.62
16 Cp +If+Eo 35.70 -5.30 -14.59 22.32 248.95 12.85
17 Cp +Rc+Eo 34.84 -5.54 -15.87 23.60 257.45 11.94
18 Cp +Pp+Eo 32.56 -4.80 -14.45 22.54 264.01 14.78
19 Cp +If+Rc+Eo 25.32 -5.65 -15.32 21.84 241.62 12.38
20 Cp +If+Pp+Eo 36.65 -6.90 -16.50 22.50 262.74 13.54
21 Cp +Rc+Pp+Eo 27.02 -5.30 -15.65 23.32 240.95 12.30
22 Cp +Ab 36.14 -4.24 -14.65 22.60 266.58 13.65
23 Cp +If+Ab 35.58 -5.87 -15.98 21.95 249.87 12.42
24 Cp +Rc+Ab 34.98 -6.54 -16.04 22.40 247.65 13.85
25 Cp +Pp+Ab 35.65 -4.95 -15.62 23.21 254.63 12.96
26 Cp +If+Rc+Ab 32.32 -5.74 -14.65 22.60 241.25 11.87
27 Cp +If+Pp+Ab 36.06 -6.85 -16.70 21.35 252.96 14.51
28 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ab 23.43 -5.60 -15.15 22.98 240.85 12.74
29 Cp +Ai 32.65 -5.21 -14.62 23.74 256.47 13.98
30 Cp +If+Ai 25.40 -5.30 -1530 22.65 255.01 12.05
31 Cp +Rc+Ai 34.98 -5.65 -16.65 21.32 248.62 14.21
32 Cp +Pp+Ai 35.32 -6.84 -15.80 22.02 257.95 11.54
33 Cp +If+Rc+Ai 36.01 -5.05 -11.74 23.54 264.85 12.62
34 Cp +If+Pp+Ai 32.65 -4.65 -15.51 21.41 250.47 14.54
35 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ai 33.98 -5.90 -16.65 22.30 259.65 13.35
125

PROPERTY OF NATURAL DYED WOOL FABRIC
The major natural dyes Bv, Bo, Tc, Pg, Al and Cp combinations
with other natural dyes If, Rc, Pp for shade variation, and combinations with
Vn, Eo, Ab and Ai to impart functional variation (antimicrobial property) on
wool fabric were discussed in this division. The studies contained color
fastness property, antimicrobial assessment and K/S evaluation for all the six
major dyes and their combination for the dyed wool fabric.
4.4.1 Berberis Vulgaris (Bv) and its Combination on Wool Fabric for

vulgaris on wool fabric in the intact form and in combination with other
type of mordanting technique. The basic color obtained on wool fabric using
berberis vulgaris is orange. There are various colors obtained with different
hues when Bv is mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.

same is 1%, 0.5% and 1.5% respectively. The dye assistants sodium chloride
and potash alum with 0.5 and 1.5% concentration is used in combination of
Bv with Eo, Ab and Ai. The first level of combination required only potash
alum of 1% for best result. The temperature is maintained at 60° for Bv dye
alone, and for the combination dyeing the temperature is varied from low to
high level with respect to the best dyeing result. The duration of the natural
dyeing is 30 minutes for the berberis vulgaris dye alone whereas the duration
increases there afterwards based on the combination and results needed.
126

combination wool fabric

application (C) (min) Obtained
1 Bv - - - - 1 Pr 60 30 Orange
2 Bv +If - - - - 1 +32 60 Green
3 Bv +Rc - - - - 1 Pr +60 60 Red
4 Bv +Pp - - - - 1 Pr +70 60 Orange
5 Bv +Rc+If - - - - 1 Pr +60 90 Red
6 Bv +Pp+If - - - - 1 Pr +70 90 Red
7 Bv + (Rc+Pp) - - - - 1 Pr +70 60 Reddish green
8 Bv +Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +45 60 Orange
9 Bv +Vn+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +45 90 Red
10 Bv +Rc+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +60 90 Orange
11 Bv +Pp+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +60 90 Orange
12 Bv+(Rc+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +70 90 Red
13 Bv+(Pp+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +70 90 Red
14 Bv+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 1.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
15 Bv +Eo 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr 60 60 Orange
16 Bv +Eo+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 - +32 60 Red
17 Bv +Rc+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +60 60 Red
18 Bv +Pp+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Orange
19 Bv +(Rc+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +60 90 Red
20 Bv +(Pp+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Red
21 Bv +(Rc+Pp)+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
22 Bv +Ab 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr 70 60 Orange
23 Bv +Ab+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 - +32 90 Red
24 Bv +Rc+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +60 90 Red
25 Bv +Pp+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Orange
26 Bv +(Rc+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +60 90 Red
27 Bv +(Pp+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Red
28 Bv +(Rc+Pp)+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
29 Bv +Ai 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr 60 60 Orange
30 Bv +Ai+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 - +32 60 Red
31 Bv +Rc+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +60 60 Red
32 Bv +Pp+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 60 Orange
33 Bv +(Rc+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +60 90 Red
34 Bv +(Pp+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Red
35 Bv +(Rc+Pp)+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 1.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish green
127
4.4.1.1 Color Fastness property of Bv dyed wool fabric
Table 4.50 shows the results of color fastness ratings of Bv natural

dyed wool samples. Fastness in relevance with light gives a rating that
recorded an average of 3 which falls under moderate rating. The washing
fastness is god on Bv dyed wool fabric. For the color change and color stain
parameters, there is an average of 4 rating which is a very value for wash
fastness. The crocking fastness on Bv dyed wool fabric is very good (average
of 4) in dry condition compared to the wet condition (average of 2-3). There
is no considerable change between color change and color stain parameters of
Bv dyed wool fabric in both wet and dry condition of crocking fastness.
4.4.1.2 Antimicrobial assessment of Bv dyed wool fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Bv natural dyed wool

samples are given in Table 4.51. The table shows that the bacterial count of
gram (+) and gram (-) undyed wool samples are 2114 and 1987 respectively.
From this it is evident that the gram (+) microbial attack to the textile sample
is more than that of gram (-) microbe. Similarly the number of gram (+)
bacterial count are more than gram (-) bacterial count to the dyed samples
ranging around 800 and 700 respectively. The reduction percentage for the
microbial attack in both the cases of gram (+) and gram (-) is slightly
increased for the combination dyeing on wool fabric.
128

on wool fabric

Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Bv 3 3 4 2-3 2 4 3-4
2 Bv+If 3 3-4 3 3 2-3 4 3
3 Bv +Rc 3 3 4 3 2-3 4 3
4 Bv +Pp 4 4 3 2 3 3 3
5 Bv +If+Rc 3-4 3-4 3 2 2 3 4
6 Bv +If+Pp 4 3 3-4 3 3 3-4 3
7 Bv +Rc+Pp 3 4 3 2 2 4 4
8 Bv +Vn 3 3-4 3 2 2-3 3 4
9 Bv +If+Vn 3 4 4 2-3 2 3 4
10 Bv +Rc+Vn 4 4 3-4 2 3 4 3-4
11 Bv +Pp+Vn 3-4 4 4 2 2 4 4
12 Bv +If+Rc+Vn 4 3 3 3 2 3-4 4
13 Bv +If+Pp+Vn 3-4 3-4 3 3 3 4 3
14 Bv +Rc+Pp+Vn 3 4 4 2 3 3 3
15 Bv +Eo 3 3 3-4 2 3 3 4
16 Bv +If+Eo 3-4 3 4 2-3 2-3 3-4 4
17 Bv +Rc+Eo 4 3-4 3 2 2 4 3
18 Bv +Pp+Eo 3 4 3 3 3 4 4
19 Bv +If+Rc+Eo 3 4 3-4 3 3 3 3
20 Bv +If+Pp+Eo 4 3 4 2 2 4 3
21 Bv +Rc+Pp+Eo 3 4 4 3 2 3 3-4
22 Bv +Ab 3-4 4 3-4 2-3 3 3 4
23 Bv +If+Ab 3 3 3 2-3 2 3 3
24 Bv +Rc+Ab 3 3-4 3 3 2-3 4 3
25 Bv +Pp+Ab 3 3-4 3 3 2 3 3
26 Bv +If+Rc+Ab 4 4 4 2 3 3 3
27 Bv +If+Pp+Ab 3 3 4 3 3 4 4
28 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ab 3 4 3 2 2-3 3-4 4
29 Bv +Ai 3-4 4 4 2 2 3-4 3-4
30 Bv +If+Ai 4 3 3 3 3 4 4
31 Bv +Rc+Ai 3 3 3 2-3 2 3 3
32 Bv +Pp+Ai 3 3-4 3 3 2 3 3-4
33 Bv +If+Rc+Ai 3 3 4 2 3 4 4
34 Bv +If+Pp+Ai 4 3-4 3 2 2 3 3
35 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ai 3 4 3-4 3 2 3-4 3-4
129
Table 4.51 Antimicrobial assessment of berberis vulgaris (Bv)

combination on wool fabric

Undyed 2114 1987 - -
1 Bv 758 695 64.1438 65.02265
2 Bv+If 765 645 63.81268 67.539
3 Bv +Rc 798 678 62.25166 65.87821
4 Bv +Pp 714 615 66.22517 69.04882
5 Bv +If+Rc 725 626 65.70482 68.49522
6 Bv +If+Pp 836 795 60.45412 59.98993
7 Bv +Rc+Pp 785 626 62.8666 68.49522
8 Bv +Vn 845 736 60.02838 62.95924
9 Bv +If+Vn 717 698 66.08325 64.87167
10 Bv +Rc+Vn 882 745 58.27815 62.50629
11 Bv +Pp+Vn 796 612 62.34626 69.1998
12 Bv +If+Rc+Vn 892 798 57.80511 59.83895
13 Bv +If+Pp+Vn 815 615 61.44749 69.04882
14 Bv +Rc+Pp+Vn 836 774 60.45412 61.0468
15 Bv +Eo 748 785 64.61684 60.49321
16 Bv +If+Eo 869 765 58.89309 61.49975
17 Bv +Rc+Eo 765 795 63.81268 59.98993
18 Bv +Pp+Eo 895 615 57.6632 69.04882
19 Bv +If+Rc+Eo 774 725 63.38694 63.51283
20 Bv +If+Pp+Eo 885 636 58.13623 67.99195
21 Bv +Rc+Pp+Eo 795 795 62.39357 59.98993
22 Bv +Ab 762 675 63.95459 66.02919
23 Bv +If+Ab 736 795 65.18448 59.98993
24 Bv +Rc+Ab 725 614 65.70482 69.09914
25 Bv +Pp+Ab 848 725 59.88647 63.51283
26 Bv +If+Rc+Ab 795 636 62.39357 67.99195
27 Bv +If+Pp+Ab 884 695 58.18354 65.02265
28 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ab 756 626 64.23841 68.49522
29 Bv +Ai 895 635 57.6632 68.04227
30 Bv +If+Ai 836 796 60.45412 59.93961
31 Bv +Rc+Ai 825 645 60.97446 67.539
32 Bv +Pp+Ai 745 715 64.75875 64.0161
33 Bv +If+Rc+Ai 798 684 62.25166 65.57625
34 Bv +If+Pp+Ai 812 775 61.5894 60.99648
35 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ai 745 695 64.75875 65.02265
130
4.4.1.3 K/S analysis of Bv dyed wool fabric
The K/S values for Bv natural dyed wool fabric are given in the
as good color strength for wool fabric dyeing. The average color strength of
combination dyeing with Bv on wool fabric is considerably increased.
4.4.2 Bixa Orellana (Bo) and its Combination on Wool Fabric for

on wool fabric in the intact form and in combination with other natural
bixa orellana is red. There are various colors obtained with different hues
when Bo is mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.

were used in natural dyeing of Bo with Eo, Ab and Ai combination and the
concentration of the same is 0.5%, 1.5% and 0.5% respectively. The dye
assistants sodium chloride and sodium carbonate with 0.5% and 2%
concentration was used in combination of Bo with Vn. The first level of
combination required only sodium carbonate of 1.5% for best result. The
temperature was maintained at 60° for Bo dye alone, and for the combination
dyeing the temperature was varied from low to high level for good dyeing.
The duration of the natural dyeing is 30 minutes for the bixa orellana dye
alone whereas the duration increases there afterwards based on the
131
Table 4.52 Colorimetric data of berberis vulgaris (Bv) combination on

wool fabric
S. Natural Dye
L* a* b* C h K/S
No. Application
1 Bv 38.65 -5.50 -15.95 22.85 248.51 11.62
2 Bv+If 26.84 -6.09 -16.84 23.45 262.10 14.01
3 Bv +Rc 31.20 -5.54 -15.52 23.01 240.32 12.04
4 Bv +Pp 27.54 -4.70 -14.56 23.23 265.47 13.05
5 Bv +If+Rc 30.95 -6.62 -15.13 23.69 245.54 14.65
6 Bv +If+Pp 33.60 -4.30 -16.92 21.58 256.45 12.98
7 Bv +Rc+Pp 36.32 -6.15 -15.04 22.57 242.01 13.74
8 Bv +Vn 39.84 -4.84 -14.51 21.14 251.30 14.01
9 Bv +If+Vn 37.75 -5.52 -15.75 22.03 254.62 12.25
10 Bv +Rc+Vn 25.96 -6.60 -16.95 21.62 255.95 12.35
11 Bv +Pp+Vn 31.52 -5.68 -14.62 21.84 248.45 14.62
12 Bv +If+Rc+Vn 20.41 -4.95 -15.32 21.45 269.25 15.05
13 Bv +If+Pp+Vn 32.43 -5.74 -16.84 23.45 244.01 12.46
14 Bv +Rc+Pp+Vn 28.62 -6.51 -15.91 21.01 267.75 13.89
15 Bv +Eo 36.54 -5.02 -14.35 21.03 241.84 14.22
16 Bv +If+Eo 25.81 -4.59 -15.74 22.60 262.65 12.30
17 Bv +Rc+Eo 34.71 -5.62 -16.59 21.52 243.02 12.24
18 Bv +Pp+Eo 39.62 -6.30 -15.62 22.23 256.71 14.15
19 Bv +If+Rc+Eo 38.30 -5.15 -14.62 23.15 265.84 12.94
20 Bv +If+Pp+Eo 35.95 -4.95 -15.35 23.74 268.65 12.87
21 Bv +Rc+Pp+Eo 32.84 -5.74 -14.74 23.98 267.30 13.50
22 Bv +Ab 27.74 -6.10 -15.15 23.65 262.52 13.14
23 Bv +If+Ab 33.52 -5.25 -14.62 22.25 261.14 14.25
24 Bv +Rc+Ab 26.36 -4.96 -15.35 23.51 252.02 14.30
25 Bv +Pp+Ab 35.60 -5.32 -16.84 22.65 243.52 12.65
26 Bv +If+Rc+Ab 24.85 -6.58 -15.75 23.25 256.74 13.95
27 Bv +If+Pp+Ab 31.74 -5.74 -16.95 22.98 245.98 14.74
28 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ab 27.62 -4.62 -15.62 23.65 254.65 12.01
29 Bv +Ai 30.54 -5.43 -16.32 21.74 247.03 13.52
30 Bv +If+Ai 25.51 -6.05 -15.51 22.48 258.20 13.62
31 Bv +Rc+Ai 32.40 -5.84 -14.04 21.32 249.41 14.30
32 Bv +Pp+Ai 28.62 -4.75 -15.58 22.84 250.87 12.55
33 Bv +If+Rc+Ai 30.30 -6.62 -14.90 21.51 261.54 13.42
34 Bv +If+Pp+Ai 29.98 -5.32 -15.65 22.32 252.15 14.20
35 Bv +Rc+Pp+Ai 31.70 -4.05 -14.32 22.02 240.20 12.54
132
Table 4.53 Application method of bixa orellana (Bo) and its


1 Bo - - 1.5 Pr - - 60 30 Red
2 Bo +If - - 1.5 Pr - - +32 60 Green
4 Bo +Pp - - 1.5 Pr - - +70 60 Red
8 Bo +Vn - - 2 Pr - - +45 60 Red
15 Bo +Eo 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr - - 60 60 Red
16 Bo +Eo+If 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr - - +32 60 Reddish orange
22 Bo +Ab 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr 70 60 Red
29 Bo +Ai 0.5 Pr 1.5 Pr 0.5 Pr 60 60 Red
133
4.4.2.1 Color fastness property of Bo dyed wool fabric

crocking on the natural dyed wool fabric are given in Table 4.54. The table
indicates that there is moderate light fastness exhibited by Bo combination
dyed wool fabric with an average of 3-4. The washing fastness property was
tested under two parameters color change and staining. Both the parameters
gave a moderate rating of 3-4. The rubbing fastness of the dyed sample was
tested under two different conditions wet and dry. The dry state ratings were
found to be good than wet by recording 3-4 and 2-3 respectively. In cases
(wet and dry), the color change and color stain values are similar.
4.4.2.2 Antimicrobial assessment of Bo dyed wool fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Bo natural dyed wool

gram (+) and gram (-) of undyed wool samples are 2169 and 2145
respectively. From this it is evident that there is not much difference in gram
(+) and gram (-) microbial attack to the wool samples. Similarly the average
bacterial count of gram (+) and gram (-) to the wool samples range from 700-
850. The average reduction percentage of gram (+) and gram (-) to the dyed
wool samples is 64% and the samples dyed in combination with RC dyes give
good reduction percentage preferably.
134
Table 4.54 Color fastness ratings of combination bixa orellana (Bo)


Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Bo 3 4 3-4 2 2 4 4
2 Bo +If 3 4 3 2 2 3 4
3 Bo +Rc 3 3 3 2-3 2 4 3
4 Bo +Pp 4 4 4 2 2-3 3 3
5 Bo +If+Rc 3 3 3-4 2-3 2 3-4 4
6 Bo +If+Pp 3 3 3 2-3 2-3 3 3
7 Bo +Rc+Pp 3-4 3-4 4 2-3 2-3 4 4
8 Bo +Vn 4 3 4 2 2 3 3
9 Bo +If+Vn 3 4 3 2 2 3 4
10 Bo +Rc+Vn 4 4 3 2-3 2 4 3
11 Bo +Pp+Vn 3 3-4 4 2 2-3 3-4 3
12 Bo +If+Rc+Vn 3 3 3 2 2 4 4
13 Bo +If+Pp+Vn 3-4 3 3 2 2 3-4 3
14 Bo +Rc+Pp+Vn 4 4 3-4 2-3 2-3 4 3
15 Bo +Eo 3-4 4 3 2-3 2-3 4 4
16 Bo +If+Eo 3 3 4 2 2 3 3-4
17 Bo +Rc+Eo 3 4 4 2 2 4 4
18 Bo +Pp+Eo 4 3 4 2 2-3 3 3
19 Bo +If+Rc+Eo 3 3 3 2-3 2-3 3-4 4
20 Bo +If+Pp+Eo 3-4 4 3-4 2 2-3 3 3
21 Bo +Rc+Pp+Eo 3 3 4 2-3 2 4 3
22 Bo +Ab 3 3-4 3-4 2 2-3 3 3
23 Bo +If+Ab 3 4 4 2-3 2-3 3 4
24 Bo +Rc+Ab 4 3 3 2 2 4 3-4
25 Bo +Pp+Ab 3 4 3 2 2-3 3 4
26 Bo +If+Rc+Ab 3 4 4 2 2 3-4 3
27 Bo +If+Pp+Ab 3-4 3 3 2 2 4 3
28 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ab 3 3 3 2 2-3 3 4
29 Bo +Ai 3 3-4 4 2-3 2 4 3
30 Bo +If+Ai 3-4 3 4 2-3 2-3 3-4 4
31 Bo +Rc+Ai 4 3-4 3 2 2 4 3-4
32 Bo +Pp+Ai 3 4 3-4 2 2-3 4 4
33 Bo +If+Rc+Ai 3 3 4 2 2 3 4
34 Bo +If+Pp+Ai 3 3 4 2-3 2-3 3 3-4
35 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ai 4 3-4 3 2-3 2-3 4 4
135

on wool fabric

Undyed 2169 2145 - -
1 Bo 722 751 66.71277 64.98834
2 Bo +If 756 795 65.14523 62.93706
3 Bo +Rc 798 726 63.20885 66.15385
4 Bo +Pp 745 736 65.65237 65.68765
5 Bo +If+Rc 714 814 67.0816 62.05128
6 Bo +If+Pp 885 748 59.19779 65.12821
7 Bo +Rc+Pp 725 875 66.57446 59.20746
8 Bo +Vn 865 795 60.11987 62.93706
9 Bo +If+Vn 789 815 63.62379 62.00466
10 Bo +Rc+Vn 833 895 61.59521 58.27506
11 Bo +Pp+Vn 865 847 60.11987 60.51282
12 Bo +If+Rc+Vn 895 765 58.73675 64.33566
13 Bo +If+Pp+Vn 775 784 64.26925 63.44988
14 Bo +Rc+Pp+Vn 814 712 62.47118 66.80653
15 Bo +Eo 716 865 66.9894 59.67366
16 Bo +If+Eo 895 798 58.73675 62.7972
17 Bo +Rc+Eo 832 774 61.64131 63.91608
18 Bo +Pp+Eo 895 715 58.73675 66.66667
19 Bo +If+Rc+Eo 885 798 59.19779 62.7972
20 Bo +If+Pp+Eo 874 865 59.70493 59.67366
21 Bo +Rc+Pp+Eo 745 732 65.65237 65.87413
22 Bo +Ab 895 815 58.73675 62.00466
23 Bo +If+Ab 712 775 67.17381 63.86946
24 Bo +Rc+Ab 853 894 60.67312 58.32168
25 Bo +Pp+Ab 795 715 63.34716 66.66667
26 Bo +If+Rc+Ab 869 874 59.93545 59.25408
27 Bo +If+Pp+Ab 765 885 64.73029 58.74126
28 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ab 815 815 62.42508 62.00466
29 Bo +Ai 795 732 63.34716 65.87413
30 Bo +If+Ai 774 869 64.31535 59.48718
31 Bo +Rc+Ai 795 785 63.34716 63.40326
32 Bo +Pp+Ai 832 814 61.64131 62.05128
33 Bo +If+Rc+Ai 795 795 63.34716 62.93706
34 Bo +If+Pp+Ai 815 736 62.42508 65.68765
35 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ai 774 715 64.31535 66.66667
136
4.4.2.3 K/S analysis of Bo dyed wool fabric
The K/S values for Bo natural dyed wool fabric are given in
Table 4.56. The average data for K/S value is slightly more than 12 which are
considered as good color strength value for wool dyeing. Some of the
combination dyeing of Bo with other natural sources on wool fabric gives the
color strength value around 14 which is considered for a good dyeing trend.
4.4.3 Terminalia Chebula (Tc) and its Combination on Wool Fabric


chebula on wool fabric in the intact form and in combination with other
natural ingredients are shown in Table 57. Based on the various trials, the best
terminalia chebula is green. There are various colors obtained with different
hues when Tc is mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.

were used in natural dyeing of Tc with Vn combination and the concentration
of the same is 2%, 0.5% and 0.5% respectively. The dye assistants sodium
chloride and potash alum with 1 and 0.5% concentration was used in
combination of Bo with Eo, Ab and Ai. The first level of combination
required sodium chloride and potash alum of 1% and 0.5% for best result. The
temperature was maintained at 60° for Tc dye alone, and for the combination
dyeing the temperature was varied from low to high level with respect to the
best dyeing result. The duration of the natural dyeing is 30 minutes for the
terminalia chebula dye alone whereas the duration increases there afterwards
based on the combination and results needed.
137
Table 4.56 Colorimetric data of bixa orellana (Bo) combination on wool

fabric
S. Natural Dye
L* a* B* C h K/S
No. Application
1 Bo 35.54 -5.51 -15.65 22.02 259.51 12.62
2 Bo +If 26.20 -6.06 -14.41 23.10 262.02 14.01
3 Bo +Rc 31.70 -5.55 -16.20 22.87 254.45 12.05
4 Bo +Pp 20.95 -6.62 -15.54 21.54 240.84 13.47
5 Bo +If+Rc 27.42 -5.30 -14.87 22.14 265.60 14.84
6 Bo +If+Pp 25.65 -4.87 -15.95 23.01 256.21 12.50
7 Bo +Rc+Pp 28.73 -5.40 -16.62 22.30 243.45 12.32
8 Bo +Vn 37.91 -6.15 -15.30 21.62 250.80 14.60
9 Bo +If+Vn 29.54 -5.96 -14.24 22.95 262.14 13.95
10 Bo +Rc+Vn 35.26 -4.32 -15.15 23.54 241.30 14.87
11 Bo +Pp+Vn 26.34 -5.85 -14.85 23.21 250.24 12.45
12 Bo +If+Rc+Vn 32.85 -6.84 -15.30 23.40 244.87 13.12
13 Bo +If+Pp+Vn 30.96 -5.75 -14.54 22.84 255.51 12.03
14 Bo +Rc+Pp+Vn 33.32 -4.62 -15.18 23.95 268.02 14.65
15 Bo +Eo 36.54 -4.65 -16.75 22.23 267.65 12.98
16 Bo +If+Eo 27.71 -5.84 -15.95 23.51 250.98 13.70
17 Bo +Rc+Eo 36.50 -6.95 -16.62 22.87 252.63 14.42
18 Bo +Pp+Eo 27.96 -6.62 -15.30 22.15 241.02 12.50
19 Bo +If+Rc+Eo 30.33 -6.30 -16.60 22.32 256.54 12.32
20 Bo +If+Pp+Eo 31.52 -5.04 -15.15 22.02 240.51 14.60
21 Bo +Rc+Pp+Eo 34.80 -4.51 -16.24 23.74 251.22 12.41
22 Bo +Ab 37.64 -585 -15.84 22.98 244.20 13.51
23 Bo +If+Ab 25.70 -4.62 -14.71 23.65 265.01 14.87
24 Bo +Rc+Ab 39.62 -5.95 -15.52 22.32 247.47 12.09
25 Bo +Pp+Ab 27.64 -6.87 -14.35 21.02 268.54 13.65
26 Bo +If+Rc+Ab 33.87 -5.41 -15.96 21.51 259.62 14.32
27 Bo +If+Pp+Ab 30.62 -4.20 -16.30 21.87 242.32 12.06
28 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ab 32.06 -5.30 -15.08 21.59 251.01 14.54
29 Bo +Ai 25.73 -6.65 -14.74 21.36 260.25 12.84
30 Bo +If+Ai 31.04 -5.98 -15.52 22.02 254.45 14.50
31 Bo +Rc+Ai 28.65 -4.75 -16.16 23.54 245.88 14.21
32 Bo +Pp+Ai 37.31 -5.20 -15.02 22.87 252.51 12.30
33 Bo +If+Rc+Ai 29.51 -6.41 -14.59 21.14 260.41 13.54
34 Bo +If+Pp+Ai 35.30 -5.30 -15.65 22.25 242.52 12.87
35 Bo +Rc+Pp+Ai 36.80 -4.65 -16.84 23.01 255.54 14.30
138

S. Dye Assistants (%)

1 Tc 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 30 Green
3 Tc +Rc 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Yellow
8 Tc +Vn 2 Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 60 Green
14 Tc+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 2 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Bluish green
15 Tc +Eo 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Green
21 Tc +(Rc+Pp)+Eo 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Bluish green
22 Tc +Ab 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 70 60 Green
28 Tc +(Rc+Pp)+Ab 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Bluish green
29 Tc +Ai 1 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Green
139
4.4.3.1 Color fastness property of Tc dyed wool fabric
The results for the fastness properties towards light, washing and
crocking on Tc dyed wool fabric is given in Table 4.58. There is a moderate
(3) to good (4) light fastness rating on Tc dyed wool fabric. The washing
fastness is good both in the case of color change and color stain. There is a
good crocking fastness in the dry state (3-4) compared to the wet state which
is poor to moderate only (2-3). The difference between color change and color
stain in both wet and dry state is only marginal, for the crocking fastness of
Tc dyed wool fabric.
4.4.3.2 Antimicrobial assessment of Tc dyed wool fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Tc natural dyed wool

gram (+) and gram (-) undyed wool samples are 1984 and 1967 respectively.
From this it is evident that the gram (+) microbial attack to the wool fabric is
slightly more than that of gram (-) microbe. Similarly, the average number of
gram (+) bacterial counts is also more than gram (-) bacterial count to the
natural dyed wool samples ranging 600-750. The reduction percentage for
microbial attack is considerably increased on the combination dyed wool
fabric for both the cases of gram (+) and gram (-).
140
Table 4.58 Color fastness ratings of terminalia chebula (Tc)


Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Tc 4 4 3 2 2-3 3 3
2 Tc +If 3 4 3 2-3 2-3 3-4 3
3 Tc +Rc 3 3 4 2-3 2 4 4
4 Tc +Pp 3 4 3 2-3 2-3 3 3-4
5 Tc +If+Rc 4 3-4 4 2-3 2-3 3 4
6 Tc +If+Pp 4 3 3 2 2-3 3 3
7 Tc +Rc+Pp 3 3 3 2-3 2-3 4 4
8 Tc +Vn 3 3 3-4 2-3 2 4 3-4
9 Tc +If+Vn 3 4 3 2-3 2-3 3 4
10 Tc +Rc+Vn 3-4 4 4 2-3 2-3 4 4
11 Tc +Pp+Vn 4 4 3 2-3 2-3 3-4 4
12 Tc +If+Rc+Vn 3 3-4 3 2-3 2-3 4 3
13 Tc +If+Pp+Vn 3 4 4 2 2-3 4 4
14 Tc +Rc+Pp+Vn 3 3 3-4 2-3 2-3 3-4 3
15 Tc +Eo 4 4 4 2-3 2-3 4 3-4
16 Tc +If+Eo 3 3-4 4 2-3 2-3 3 4
17 Tc +Rc+Eo 3 4 3 2 2 3-4 3
18 Tc +Pp+Eo 3 4 3 2-3 2-3 3 3
19 Tc +If+Rc+Eo 3-4 4 3-4 2-3 2-3 3 3
20 Tc +If+Pp+Eo 4 3-4 4 2-3 2 4 3-4
21 Tc +Rc+Pp+Eo 4 3 3 2-3 2 4 3
22 Tc +Ab 3 3 4 2 2-3 3 3
23 Tc +If+Ab 3 4 3-4 2-3 2-3 3 4
24 Tc +Rc+Ab 3 3 4 2-3 2-3 3 3-4
25 Tc +Pp+Ab 3-4 4 3 2 2-3 4 4
26 Tc +If+Rc+Ab 3 3-4 3 2-3 2-3 3 3
27 Tc +If+Pp+Ab 3 4 4 2-3 2 3-4 3
28 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ab 3-4 3 3 2-3 2-3 4 4
29 Tc +Ai 3 4 3 2-3 2-3 3-4 3
30 Tc +If+Ai 3 3 3 2-3 2-3 4 3
31 Tc +Rc+Ai 3 3 3-4 2-3 2-3 3 3
32 Tc +Pp+Ai 4 3-4 4 2 2-3 4 4
33 Tc +If+Rc+Ai 3 4 3 2-3 2-3 3 4
34 Tc +If+Pp+Ai 3 3-4 3-4 2-3 2-3 3 4
35 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ai 3 3 4 2-3 2 3 3
141


Undyed 1984 1967 - -
1 Tc 658 656 66.83468 66.64972
2 Tc +If 645 698 67.48992 64.51449
3 Tc +Rc 615 645 69.00202 67.20895
4 Tc +Pp 695 798 64.96976 59.4306
5 Tc +If+Rc 732 678 63.10484 65.53127
6 Tc +If+Pp 666 756 66.43145 61.56584
7 Tc +Rc+Pp 714 698 64.0121 64.51449
8 Tc +Vn 625 769 68.49798 60.90493
9 Tc +If+Vn 798 795 59.77823 59.58312
10 Tc +Rc+Vn 648 765 67.33871 61.10829
11 Tc +Pp+Vn 756 748 61.89516 61.97255
12 Tc +If+Rc+Vn 752 665 62.09677 66.19217
13 Tc +If+Pp+Vn 725 725 63.45766 63.14184
14 Tc +Rc+Pp+Vn 695 636 64.96976 67.6665
15 Tc +Eo 736 795 62.90323 59.58312
16 Tc +If+Eo 695 614 64.96976 68.78495
17 Tc +Rc+Eo 745 785 62.4496 60.09151
18 Tc +Pp+Eo 695 774 64.96976 60.65074
19 Tc +If+Rc+Eo 614 715 69.05242 63.65023
20 Tc +If+Pp+Eo 618 795 68.85081 59.58312
21 Tc +Rc+Pp+Eo 795 663 59.92944 66.29385
22 Tc +Ab 663 625 66.58266 68.22572
23 Tc +If+Ab 795 798 59.92944 59.4306
24 Tc +Rc+Ab 625 655 68.49798 66.70056
25 Tc +Pp+Ab 759 725 61.74395 63.14184
26 Tc +If+Rc+Ab 736 614 62.90323 68.78495
27 Tc +If+Pp+Ab 795 795 59.92944 59.58312
28 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ab 741 763 62.65121 61.20996
29 Tc +Ai 658 725 66.83468 63.14184
30 Tc +If+Ai 746 684 62.39919 65.22623
31 Tc +Rc+Ai 653 674 67.08669 65.73462
32 Tc +Pp+Ai 765 615 61.44153 68.73411
33 Tc +If+Rc+Ai 695 725 64.96976 63.14184
34 Tc +If+Pp+Ai 712 698 64.1129 64.51449
35 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ai 745 765 62.4496 61.10829
142
4.4.3.3 K/S analysis of Tc dyed wool fabric
The K/S values of Tc natural dyed wool fabric are given in

as good color strength value for textile dyeing. The K/S value is not increased
significantly after combination dyeing using Tc on wool fabric.
4.4.4 Punica Granatum (Pg) and its Combination on Wool Fabric for

granatum on wool fabric in the intact form and in combination with other
hues when Pg is mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.

were used in natural dyeing of Pg with Vn combination and the concentration
Pg with Eo, Ab and Ai. The first level of combination required only sodium
chloride of 0.5% for best result. The temperature was maintained at 60° for Pg
low to high level for better dyeing. The duration of the natural dyeing is 30
minutes for the punica granatum dye alone whereas the duration increases
there afterwards based on the combination and results needed.
143
Table 4.60 Colorimetric data of terminalia chebula (Tc) combination

on wool fabric
S. Natural Dye
L* a* B* C h K/S
No. Application
1 Tc 27.60 -5.50 -15.62 23.84 248.63 13.62
2 Tc +If 35.54 -4.14 -16.51 22.65 251.15 12.01
3 Tc +Rc 28.80 -5.52 -15.4 21.32 260.40 13.54
4 Tc +Pp 35.45 -6.96 -14.20 21.50 252.87 14.87
5 Tc +If+Rc 36.92 -5.85 -15.65 22.14 243.55 14.40
6 Tc +If+Pp 33.15 -4.74 -16.98 23.20 255.65 12.25
7 Tc +Rc+Pp 36.36 -5.52 -15.74 22.74 266.58 13.60
8 Tc +Vn 35.95 -6.60 -14.51 21.98 259.24 14.32
9 Tc +If+Vn 34.74 -4.32 -15.02 22.65 248.30 12.65
10 Tc +Rc+Vn 35.51 -6.54 -16.59 21.03 258.96 12.98
11 Tc +Pp+Vn 26.08 -4.14 -15.62 23.52 247.45 14.74
12 Tc +If+Rc+Vn 33.96 -6.75 -14.30 21.48 251.21 12.51
13 Tc +If+Pp+Vn 26.30 -4.95 -15.04 23.01 240.10 14.20
14 Tc +Rc+Pp+Vn 35.51 -5.84 -16.84 23.32 262.87 12.32
15 Tc +Eo 25.84 -6.62 -15.95 23.60 262.54 13.65
16 Tc +If+Eo 35.71 -5.35 -14.60 21.95 266.45 14.84
17 Tc +Rc+Eo 36.05 -4.95 -15.04 22.48 250.01 12.75
18 Tc +Pp+Eo 32.96 -5.05 -16.51 21.01 240.32 13.95
19 Tc +If+Rc+Eo 33.30 -6.70 -15.85 22.42 252.96 14.62
20 Tc +If+Pp+Eo 26.24 -5.14 -14.95 22.51 241.85 12.30
21 Tc +Rc+Pp+Eo 35.85 -4.85 -15.62 22.26 254.24 12.14
22 Tc +Ab 28.65 -5.62 -14.03 23.03 255.10 12.58
23 Tc +If+Ab 31.95 -6.30 -15.65 23.87 264.54 14.95
24 Tc +Rc+Ab 32.62 -5.65 -14.74 23.84 257.85 12.62
25 Tc +Pp+Ab 35.30 -4.80 -15.01 22.05 264.84 13.32
26 Tc +If+Rc+Ab 36.41 -5.14 -14.58 21.14 245.25 14.30
27 Tc +If+Pp+Ab 27.51 -6.58 -15.95 22.32 266.30 12.65
28 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ab 32.87 -5.96 -16.62 21.60 249.52 13.84
29 Tc +Ai 25.54 -4.32 -15.03 21.95 256.12 14.71
30 Tc +If+Ai 34.95 -5.60 -14.95 21.75 242.74 12.20
31 Tc +Rc+Ai 25.62 -6.54 -15.74 22.48 243.48 12.54
32 Tc +Pp+Ai 32.30 -5.84 -14.51 23.65 242.59 13.95
33 Tc +If+Rc+Ai 26.95 -6.75 -15.80 22.32 250.45 14.62
34 Tc +If+Pp+Ai 32.32 -4.21 -14.25 21.02 260.02 12.30
35 Tc +Rc+Pp+Ai 36.45 -5.62 -15.03 23.15 252.51 13.24
144


1 Pg 0.5 Pr - - - - 60 30 Brown
2 Pg +If 0.5 Pr - - - - +32 60 purple
3 Pg +Rc 0.5 Pr - - - - +60 60 Reddish brown
4 Pg +Pp 0.5 Pr - - - - +70 60 Purple
5 Pg +Rc+If 0.5 Pr - - - - +60 90 Reddish brown
6 Pg +Pp+If 0.5 Pr - - - - +70 90 Reddish brown
7 Pg + (Rc+Pp) 0.5 Pr - - - - +70 60 Reddish purple
8 Pg +Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 60 Brown
9 Pg +Vn+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 90 purple
10 Pg +Rc+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Purple
11 Pg +Pp+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Reddish brown
12 Pg+(Rc+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish brown
13 Pg+(Pp+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish brown
14 Pg+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Reddish purple
15 Pg +Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Brown
22 Pg +Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 70 60 Brown
29 Pg +Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Brown
145
4.4.4.1 Color fastness property of Pg dyed wool fabric
The results of the fastness properties of Pg dyed wool fabric is

shown in Table 4.62. The table indicates that the light fastness of Pg dyed
wool samples give moderate ratings 3-4. The washing fastness of the Pg dyed
wool sample is good both for color change and color stain parameters. There
is a significant difference between the dry crocking (3-4) fastness and wet
crocking fastness (2-3). The color change and color stain are more or less
same in wet and dry conditions of crocking fastness on Pg dyed wool fabric.
4.4.4.2 Antimicrobial assessment of Pg dyed wool fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Pg natural dyed wool

samples are shown in Table 4.63. The table indicates that the bacterial count
of gram (+) and gram (-) of undyed wool samples are 1938 and 1954
respectively. From this it is seen that there is not much difference in the
microbial attack of gram (+) and gram (-). The average bacterial counts of
gram (+) and gram (-) ranges 600-750 for dyed Pg combinations samples. The
average reduction% of gram (+) and gram (-) is about 65%. There is a
marginal increase in the reduction rate for microbial attack on combination
dyed wool fabric using Pg, for both gram (+) and gram (-).
146

on wool fabric

Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Pg 3-4 3 3 3 3 3-4 3-4
2 Pg +If 3 3 3-4 3 3 4 4
3 Pg +Rc 3 4 4 3 3 4 3
4 Pg +Pp 3 3-4 4 3 3 3 3
5 Pg +If+Rc 4 4 3 3 2-3 3 4
6 Pg +If+Pp 3 3-4 4 2-3 3 3-4 4
7 Pg +Rc+Pp 4 3 3 3 3 4 3
8 Pg +Vn 3 4 3-4 3 3 3 4
9 Pg +If+Vn 3 4 4 3 3 4 3
10 Pg +Rc+Vn 3 4 3 3 2-3 4 4
11 Pg +Pp+Vn 3 3-4 3-4 3 3 4 3-4
12 Pg +If+Rc+Vn 3-4 3 4 3 3 3 4
13 Pg +If+Pp+Vn 4 3-4 3 3 3 4 3
14 Pg +Rc+Pp+Vn 3 4 3 2-3 3 3 4
15 Pg +Eo 3 4 3 3 3 3 3-4
16 Pg +If+Eo 4 4 4 3 2-3 3 4
17 Pg +Rc+Eo 3-4 3 3-4 3 3 3-4 3
18 Pg +Pp+Eo 4 4 4 3 3 4 3-4
19 Pg +If+Rc+Eo 3 3-4 3 3 2-3 4 3
20 Pg +If+Pp+Eo 3 4 3-4 3 3 3-4 4
21 Pg +Rc+Pp+Eo 3 3 4 3 3 4 4
22 Pg +Ab 4 4 3 2-3 3 3 4
23 Pg +If+Ab 3 3-4 3 3 3 3 3
24 Pg +Rc+Ab 3 3 4 3 3 4 4
25 Pg +Pp+Ab 4 4 4 3 2-3 3-4 3-4
26 Pg +If+Rc+Ab 3-4 3-4 4 2-3 3 4 3
27 Pg +If+Pp+Ab 3 3 3 3 2-3 3-4 3-4
28 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ab 3 4 3 3 3 4 3
29 Pg +Ai 3-4 4 4 3 3 3 3
30 Pg +If+Ai 3 3-4 3 3 3 3 4
31 Pg +Rc+Ai 4 3 3-4 3 2-3 3 3-4
32 Pg +Pp+Ai 3 4 4 3 3 3-4 3
33 Pg +If+Rc+Ai 3 3 3-4 3 2-3 4 4
34 Pg +If+Pp+Ai 3 3-4 4 2-3 3 3 3
35 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ai 4 4 3 3 3 3 3-4
147


Undyed 1938 1954 - -
1 Pg 758 765 60.88751 60.84954
2 Pg +If 648 745 66.56347 61.87308
3 Pg +Rc 695 784 64.13829 59.87718
4 Pg +Pp 615 614 68.26625 68.57728
5 Pg +If+Rc 625 612 67.75026 68.67963
6 Pg +If+Pp 736 652 62.0227 66.63255
7 Pg +Rc+Pp 662 795 65.84107 59.31423
8 Pg +Vn 715 663 63.1063 66.0696
9 Pg +If+Vn 656 695 66.15067 64.43193
10 Pg +Rc+Vn 615 615 68.26625 68.5261
11 Pg +Pp+Vn 695 795 64.13829 59.31423
12 Pg +If+Rc+Vn 775 674 60.01032 65.50665
13 Pg +If+Pp+Vn 614 714 68.31785 63.45957
14 Pg +Rc+Pp+Vn 784 625 59.54592 68.01433
15 Pg +Eo 695 765 64.13829 60.84954
16 Pg +If+Eo 705 615 63.62229 68.5261
17 Pg +Rc+Eo 636 685 67.18266 64.94371
18 Pg +Pp+Eo 602 674 68.93705 65.50665
19 Pg +If+Rc+Eo 630 615 67.49226 68.5261
20 Pg +If+Pp+Eo 725 695 62.5903 64.43193
21 Pg +Rc+Pp+Eo 630 663 67.49226 66.0696
22 Pg +Ab 714 720 63.15789 63.15251
23 Pg +If+Ab 689 612 64.44788 68.67963
24 Pg +Rc+Ab 662 758 65.84107 61.20778
25 Pg +Pp+Ab 610 695 68.52425 64.43193
26 Pg +If+Rc+Ab 746 762 61.50671 61.00307
27 Pg +If+Pp+Ab 650 603 66.46027 69.14023
28 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ab 648 762 66.56347 61.00307
29 Pg +Ai 695 701 64.13829 64.12487
30 Pg +If+Ai 762 741 60.68111 62.07779
31 Pg +Rc+Ai 610 795 68.52425 59.31423
32 Pg +Pp+Ai 759 702 60.83591 64.07369
33 Pg +If+Rc+Ai 662 662 65.84107 66.12078
34 Pg +If+Pp+Ai 795 703 58.97833 64.02252
35 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ai 645 761 66.71827 61.05425
148
4.4.4.3 K/S analysis of Pg dyed wool fabric
The K/S values of Pg natural dyed wool fabric are given in

Table 4.64. The average data for K/S value is slightly more than 14 which are
considered as good color strength value for textile fabric dyeing. There is no
increase in the K/S value of combination dyed wool fabric using Pg.
4.4.5 Allium Cepa (Al) and its Combination on Wool Fabric for

wool fabric in the intact form and in combination with other natural
allium cepa is pink. There are various colors obtained with different hues
when Al is mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.

were used in natural dyeing of Al with Vn combination and the concentration
Al with Eo, Ab and Ai. The first level of combination required sodium
maintained at 60° for Al dye alone, and for the combination dyeing the
of the natural dyeing is 30 minutes for the allium cepa dye alone whereas the
duration increases there afterwards based on the combination and results
needed
149

wool fabric
S. Natural Dye
L* a* b* C h K/S
No. Application
1 Pg 33.54 -6.51 -15.62 21.25 245.54 14.51
2 Pg +If 36.21 -4.40 -16.95 22.85 250.02 12.02
3 Pg +Rc 35.50 -5.20 -15.78 23.04 261.15 13.65
4 Pg +Pp 24.62 -4.95 -14.48 23.62 262.48 14.98
5 Pg +If+Rc 32.30 -5.87 -15.65 23.50 263.95 12.70
6 Pg +If+Pp 23.98 -4.45 -16.45 23.04 256.62 12.41
7 Pg +Rc+Pp 36.74 -5.62 -15.01 22.51 240.30 12.52
8 Pg +Vn 25.51 -4.30 -14.62 21.47 255.21 14.30
9 Pg +If+Vn 32.20 -5.65 -16.95 22.02 264.54 14.65
10 Pg +Rc+Vn 33.32 -4.84 -14.57 21.96 257.87 13.98
11 Pg +Pp+Vn 36.60 -6.75 -15.04 22.35 248.40 12.74
12 Pg +If+Rc+Vn 25.54 -4.62 -14.30 22.85 259.20 12.51
13 Pg +If+Pp+Vn 34.87 -6.30 -15.62 22.74 260.54 13.20
14 Pg +Rc+Pp+Vn 25.50 -4.51 -14.95 22.15 242.81 12.32
15 Pg +Eo 36.12 -6.84 -15.75 23.02 255.32 14.65
16 Pg +If+Eo 25.62 -4.75 -16.84 22.41 244.65 14.84
17 Pg +Rc+Eo 36.95 -6.95 -15.15 21.87 241.95 14.75
18 Pg +Pp+Eo 25.87 -5.60 -16.02 22.95 240.74 12.65
19 Pg +If+Rc+Eo 32.45 -6.32 -15.63 23.36 255.15 13.32
20 Pg +If+Pp+Eo 33.26 -5.54 -14.01 23.15 246.02 12.01
21 Pg +Rc+Pp+Eo 36.30 -6.84 -16.62 23.04 253.35 11.45
22 Pg +Ab 35.05 -5.15 -14.95 23.15 240.62 14.87
23 Pg +If+Ab 26.76 -6.26 -16.47 22.02 252.56 12.95
24 Pg +Rc+Ab 35.92 -5.35 -14.28 23.75 266.90 13.62
25 Pg +Pp+Ab 26.30 -4.95 -16.60 22.82 262.45 14.30
26 Pg +If+Rc+Ab 32.54 -5.87 -15.41 22.50 260.51 12.21
27 Pg +If+Pp+Ab 23.87 -6.45 -14.03 22.43 261.30 13.45
28 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ab 36.54 -5.62 -15.64 22.10 254.21 14.58
29 Pg +Ai 25.51 -4.30 -14.58 21.02 245.54 12.62
30 Pg +If+Ai 31.40 -5.54 -15.01 22.32 259.74 13.30
31 Pg +Rc+Ai 2520 -6.87 -14.62 21.62 268.01 14.21
32 Pg +Pp+Ai 36.62 -5.62 -15.95 22.85 256.20 12.48
33 Pg +If+Rc+Ai 25.30 -4.50 -16.75 21.47 242.32 13.51
34 Pg +If+Pp+Ai 34.95 -5.41 -15.84 22.15 250.65 13.20
35 Pg +Rc+Pp+Ai 25.62 -6.62 -15.65 23.02 262.87 14.32
150
on wool fabric

1 Al 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 30 Pink
2 Al +If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish pink
3 Al +Rc 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Red
4 Al +Pp 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Green
5 Al +Rc+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
6 Al +Pp+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
7 Al + (Rc+Pp) 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Red
8 Al +Vn 1 Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 60 Pink
9 Al +Vn+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 90 Bluish pink
10 Al +Rc+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Green
11 Al +Pp+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
12 Al+(Rc+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
13 Al+(Pp+Vn)+If 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
14 Al+(Rc+Pp)+Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
15 Al +Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Pink
16 Al +Eo+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish pink
17 Al +Rc+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Red
18 Al +Pp+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Green
19 Al +(Rc+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
20 Al +(Pp+Eo)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
21 Al +(Rc+Pp)+Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
22 Al +Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 70 60 Pink
23 Al +Ab+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 90 Bluish pink
24 Al +Rc+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
25 Al +Pp+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Green
26 Al +(Rc+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
27 Al +(Pp+Ab)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
28 Al +(Rc+Pp)+Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
29 Al +Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Pink
30 Al +Ai+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +32 60 Bluish pink
31 Al +Rc+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 60 Red
32 Al +Pp+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 60 Green
33 Al +(Rc+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +60 90 Red
34 Al +(Pp+Ai)+If 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
35 Al +(Rc+Pp)+Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr +70 90 Red
151
4.4.5.1 Color fastness property of Al dyed wool fabric
The results of the fastness properties of Al dyed wool fabric is

shown in Table 4.66. The table indicates that the light fastness of Al dyed
wool samples recorded an average range of 3-4 which is considered to be
moderate rating. The washing fastness property of the Al dyed sample tested
for color change and staining property recorded an average of 3-4 for both the
parameters. The dry state of crocking fastness gives better value (4) than the
wet state (2-3). The color change and color stain values are similar in both
wet and dry conditions of crocking fastness on Al dyed wool fabric.
4.4.5.2 Antimicrobial assessment of Al dyed wool fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Al natural dyed wool

respectively. From this it is clear that there is not much difference in gram (+)
and gram (-) microbial attack to the wool samples. Similarly the average
bacterial count of gram (+) and gram (-) to the wool samples range from 600-
700. The reduction% of gram (+) and gram (-) to the dyed wool samples is
around 64%. There is considerable increase in the reduction percentage of
microbial attack on wool fabric dyed by Al and its combination for both gram
(+) and gram (-).
152
Table 4.66 Color fastness ratings of Allium cepa (Al) combination on

wool fabric

Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Al 3 3 4 3 2-3 4 3
2 Al +If 3 4 3 2-3 3 4 3
3 Al +Rc 3 4 3 3 3 3 3-4
4 Al +Pp 4 3 3 3 3 4 4
5 Al +If+Rc 3 4 4 3 2-3 4 3-4
6 Al +If+Pp 3 3 3-4 3 3 3 3
7 Al +Rc+Pp 4 4 4 2-3 3 3 3
8 Al +Vn 3-4 4 3 3 3 3 4
9 Al +If+Vn 4 3-4 3 3 3 3-4 3-4
10 Al +Rc+Vn 3 3 4 3 3 3 4
11 Al +Pp+Vn 3 4 3-4 2-3 3 4 4
12 Al +If+Rc+Vn 4 3 4 3 3 4 4
13 Al +If+Pp+Vn 3-4 3 4 3 3 3 3
14 Al +Rc+Pp+Vn 4 3-4 4 3 3 3-4 4
15 Al +Eo 3 4 3 3 2-3 4 3
16 Al +If+Eo 3 3-4 3 3 3 3-4 3
17 Al +Rc+Eo 3 4 3 3 2-3 4 3
18 Al +Pp+Eo 4 3 3-4 3 3 4 4
19 Al +If+Rc+Eo 3 3 4 3 3 3 4
20 Al +If+Pp+Eo 4 3-4 3-4 2-3 3 4 3-4
21 Al +Rc+Pp+Eo 3 4 3-4 3 3 3 4
22 Al +Ab 3 4 3 3 3 3 3
23 Al +If+Ab 3 3-4 4 3 3 3-4 3
24 Al +Rc+Ab 3 3 4 3 3 4 3-4
25 Al +Pp+Ab 3-4 3 3-4 3 3 3 4
26 Al +If+Rc+Ab 4 3 3 2-3 3 3 4
27 Al +If+Pp+Ab 4 4 3 3 2-3 3 3-4
28 Al +Rc+Pp+Ab 3-4 3 3-4 3 3 4 3
29 Al +Ai 3 4 4 3 2-3 3-4 4
30 Al +If+Ai 3 4 4 3 3 4 3
31 Al +Rc+Ai 4 3-4 3 3 3 3-4 3
32 Al +Pp+Ai 3 4 3 2-3 3 3 3
33 Al +If+Rc+Ai 3 3-4 3 3 2-3 3 4
34 Al +If+Pp+Ai 4 3-4 4 2-3 3 3 3
35 Al +Rc+Pp+Ai 3 3 3 3 3 4 3-4
153

on wool fabric

Undyed 1966 1983 - -
1 Al 602 754 69.37945 61.9768
2 Al +If 662 701 66.32757 64.64952
3 Al +Rc 602 754 69.37945 61.9768
4 Al +Pp 756 695 61.54629 64.95209
5 Al +If+Rc 684 702 65.20855 64.59909
6 Al +If+Pp 701 665 64.34385 66.46495
7 Al +Rc+Pp 659 795 66.48016 59.90923
8 Al +Vn 762 663 61.2411 66.56581
9 Al +If+Vn 730 602 62.86877 69.64196
10 Al +Rc+Vn 725 760 63.12309 61.67423
11 Al +Pp+Vn 698 664 64.49644 66.51538
12 Al +If+Rc+Vn 701 701 64.34385 64.64952
13 Al +If+Pp+Vn 662 654 66.32757 67.01967
14 Al +Rc+Pp+Vn 702 784 64.29298 60.46394
15 Al +Eo 674 702 65.71719 64.59909
16 Al +If+Eo 784 695 60.12208 64.95209
17 Al +Rc+Eo 769 762 60.88505 61.57337
18 Al +Pp+Eo 702 630 64.29298 68.22995
19 Al +If+Rc+Eo 632 701 67.85351 64.64952
20 Al +If+Pp+Eo 765 674 61.0885 66.01109
21 Al +Rc+Pp+Eo 695 654 64.64903 67.01967
22 Al +Ab 705 602 64.14039 69.64196
23 Al +If+Ab 612 756 68.8708 61.87595
24 Al +Rc+Ab 765 630 61.0885 68.22995
25 Al +Pp+Ab 625 721 68.20956 63.64095
26 Al +If+Rc+Ab 701 654 64.34385 67.01967
27 Al +If+Pp+Ab 654 787 66.73449 60.31266
28 Al +Rc+Pp+Ab 665 626 66.17497 68.43167
29 Al +Ai 603 759 69.32859 61.72466
30 Al +If+Ai 796 755 59.5117 61.92637
31 Al +Rc+Ai 654 632 66.73449 68.1291
32 Al +Pp+Ai 701 703 64.34385 64.54866
33 Al +If+Rc+Ai 625 632 68.20956 68.1291
34 Al +If+Pp+Ai 787 705 59.96948 64.44781
35 Al +Rc+Pp+Ai 740 615 62.36012 68.98638
154
4.4.5.3 K/S analysis of Al dyed wool fabric
The K/S values of Al natural dyed wool fabric are given in

Table 4.68. The average data for K/S value is between 13 and 14 which are
considered as good color strength value for textile dyed fabric. The K/S value
is significant for Al dyed wool fabric alone. Further there is no improvement
in the color value for combination dyed wool fabric.
4.4.6 Citrus Paradise (Cp) and its Combination on Wool Fabric for

on wool fabric in the intact form and in combination with other natural
when Cp is mixed with one or more other natural ingredient.

were used in natural dyeing of Cp with Vn combination and the concentration
Cp with Eo, Ab and Ai. The first level of combination required sodium
maintained at 60° for Cp dye alone, and for the combination dyeing the
result. The duration of the natural dyeing is 30 minutes for the citrus paradisi
dye alone whereas the duration increases there afterwards upto 90 minutes for
better dyeing effect.
155
Table 4.68 Colorimetric data of allium cepa (Al) combination on wool

fabric
S. Natural Dye
L* a* b* C h K/S
No. Application
1 Al 35.60 -6.37 -15.65 21.65 259.84 14.50
2 Al +If 26.54 -5.95 -16.21 22.25 262.51 12.12
3 Al +Rc 35.81 -4.45 -15.54 23.95 255.20 13.45
4 Al +Pp 26.52 -5.87 -14.84 22.87 242.32 12.87
5 Al +If+Rc 33.60 -4.04 -15.71 21.54 253.65 13.45
6 Al +If+Pp 36.80 -5.32 -16.02 22.21 260.98 14.10
7 Al +Rc+Pp 35.76 -4.62 -15.35 23.03 261.71 12.36
8 Al +Vn 34.95 -6.75 -14.62 22.14 256.04 13.59
9 Al +If+Vn 26.41 -5.51 -15.95 21.11 256.58 14.87
10 Al +Rc+Vn 35.52 -6.74 -16.84 21.32 240.61 12.45
11 Al +Pp+Vn 28.30 -5.33 -15.05 22.90 252.25 13.12
12 Al +If+Rc+Vn 36.65 -6.62 -14.48 22.65 261.36 14.03
13 Al +If+Pp+Vn 27.92 -4.95 -15.62 23.25 255.52 12.26
14 Al +Rc+Pp+Vn 32.84 -6.08 -16.35 22.01 244.89 14.54
15 Al +Eo 26.71 -5.84 -15.84 21.74 257.85 13.51
16 Al +If+Eo 35.52 -4.65 -14.71 22.98 262.72 14.02
17 Al +Rc+Eo 34.36 -5.32 -15.01 21.65 259.42 12.41
18 Al +Pp+Eo 27.60 -6.80 -16.56 22.35 245.02 12.57
19 Al +If+Rc+Eo 32.54 -5.45 -15.92 23.02 256.12 12.84
20 Al +If+Pp+Eo 26.82 -4.62 -14.30 23.75 252.54 13.59
21 Al +Rc+Pp+Eo 33.95 -5.75 -15.15 23.14 253.61 14.56
22 Al +Ab 36.62 -6.24 -16.48 22.05 250.98 14.23
23 Al +If+Ab 35.32 -5.14 -15.20 21.03 261.65 12.21
24 Al +Rc+Ab 34.04 -4.30 -16.15 22.58 255.40 13.54
25 Al +Pp+Ab 32.84 -5.62 -15.63 23.43 244.12 14.20
26 Al +If+Rc+Ab 25.75 -6.95 -16.21 22.15 257.32 12.54
27 Al +If+Pp+Ab 36.95 -5.45 -14.57 21.02 268.65 13.15
28 Al +Rc+Pp+Ab 28.62 -4.87 -16.84 22.03 250.98 14.87
29 Al +Ai 32.32 -6.41 -14.95 21.52 242.74 12.40
30 Al +If+Ai 25.05 -4.35 -16.62 22.20 254.01 14.25
31 Al +Rc+Ai 34.95 -5.56 -14.02 22.87 245.62 13.46
32 Al +Pp+Ai 26.74 -6.92 -15.15 22.54 259.03 14.30
33 Al +If+Rc+Ai 28.62 -5.54 -16.45 23.51 240.65 12.21
34 Al +If+Pp+Ai 29.30 -4.87 -14.46 22.14 253.98 13.60
35 Al +Rc+Pp+Ai 26.54 -5.54 -15.45 23.02 262.74 14.54
156
Table 4.69 Application method of citrus paradisi (Cp) and its


No Sodium Sodium Potash
1 Cp 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 30 purple
8 Cp +Vn 1 Pr,Po 0.5 S 0.5 Pr +45 60 purple
15 Cp +Eo 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Purple
22 Cp +Ab 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 70 60 Purple
29 Cp +Ai 0.5 Pr - - 0.5 Pr 60 60 Purple
157
4.4.6.1 Color fastness property of Cp dyed wool fabric
The determined light, washing and rubbing fastness of the Cp dyed

wool fabric is shown in Table 4.70. The light fastness ratings of the Cp dyed
wool samples recorded a moderate range of 3-4 which is considered and
accepted as a good range for natural dyed samples. The washing fastness
ratings recorded 3-4 for both color change and staining property. The
crocking fastness is good in dry state (3-4) than in wet state (3). The color
change and color stain values are similar in wet and dry states of crocking
fastness on Cp dyed wool fabric.
4.4.6.2 Antimicrobial assessment of Cp dyed wool fabric
The data of antimicrobial properties of Cp natural dyed wool

respectively. The average bacterial counts of gram (+) and gram (-) to the
wool samples ranges from 650 - 800. The average reduction percentage of
gram (+) and gram (-) to the dyed wool samples is nearly 63%. The
percentage reduction of bacterial growth on wool fabric of combination dyed
using Cp for both gram (+) and gram (-) is only marginal.
158

on wool fabric

Fastness Wet Dry
CC CS CC CS CC CS
1 Cp 4 4 3 2-3 3 3 3
2 Cp +If 4 3 3-4 3 3 3 3
3 Cp +Rc 3 3 4 3 3 3-4 3
4 Cp +Pp 4 3 4 3 3 4 4
5 Cp +If+Rc 3 4 3 2-3 3 3 4
6 Cp +If+Pp 3 4 3-4 3 3 4 3-4
7 Cp +Rc+Pp 3 3 3 3 3 3-4 3-4
8 Cp +Vn 4 4 3-4 3 3 3 4
9 Cp +If+Vn 3 3-4 34 3 3 3 4
10 Cp +Rc+Vn 3 4 4 3 3 4 3
11 Cp +Pp+Vn 3 3 3 2-3 3 4 4
12 Cp +If+Rc+Vn 3 3-4 4 3 2-3 4 3-4
13 Cp +If+Pp+Vn 3-4 4 3-4 3 3 3 4
14 Cp +Rc+Pp+Vn 4 4 4 3 3 3-4 3
15 Cp +Eo 3 3 3 3 3 4 4
16 Cp +If+Eo 3 3 3-4 3 3 3 3-4
17 Cp +Rc+Eo 3 3 4 2-3 3 3 3
18 Cp +Pp+Eo 4 3-4 4 2-3 3 3-4 3
19 Cp +If+Rc+Eo 4 4 3 3 3 3 4
20 Cp +If+Pp+Eo 3 4 4 3 3 3 3-4
21 Cp +Rc+Pp+Eo 3 3-4 3 3 3 3-4 4
22 Cp +Ab 3 4 3-4 3 3 4 3-4
23 Cp +If+Ab 3-4 3 3 3 2-3 4 4
24 Cp +Rc+Ab 4 3-4 3 2-3 3 3 4
25 Cp +Pp+Ab 3-4 3-4 4 3 3 3-4 3-4
26 Cp +If+Rc+Ab 4 4 3-4 3 3 3 3
27 Cp +If+Pp+Ab 3 4 4 2-3 3 3 3
28 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ab 3 3 3-4 3 3 4 3-4
29 Cp +Ai 3 4 4 3 2-3 3-4 3
30 Cp +If+Ai 3-4 3 4 2-3 3 4 4
31 Cp +Rc+Ai 4 3 3 3 2-3 3-4 4
32 Cp +Pp+Ai 3-4 4 3 2-3 3 4 3
33 Cp +If+Rc+Ai 3 3 3-4 3 3 3 4
34 Cp +If+Pp+Ai 3 3 4 3 2-3 3 3-4
35 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ai 3 3-4 3 3 3 3-4 3
159
Table 4.71 Antimicrobial assessment of citrus paradisi (Cp) combination

on wool fabric

Undyed 1924 2009 - -
1 Cp 665 751 65.43659 62.61822
2 Cp +If 612 702 68.19127 65.05724
3 Cp +Rc 651 732 66.16424 63.56396
4 Cp +Pp 784 702 59.25156 65.05724
5 Cp +If+Rc 685 785 64.39709 60.92583
6 Cp +If+Pp 760 801 60.49896 60.12942
7 Cp +Rc+Pp 623 745 67.61954 62.91687
8 Cp +Vn 760 762 60.49896 62.07068
9 Cp +If+Vn 650 703 66.21622 65.00747
10 Cp +Rc+Vn 741 769 61.48649 61.72225
11 Cp +Pp+Vn 702 887 63.51351 55.84868
12 Cp +If+Rc+Vn 765 841 60.23909 58.13838
13 Cp +If+Pp+Vn 795 802 58.67983 60.07964
14 Cp +Rc+Pp+Vn 640 859 66.73597 57.24241
15 Cp +Eo 706 763 63.30561 62.02091
16 Cp +If+Eo 613 832 68.13929 58.58636
17 Cp +Rc+Eo 730 765 62.05821 61.92135
18 Cp +Pp+Eo 614 801 68.08732 60.12942
19 Cp +If+Rc+Eo 681 841 64.60499 58.13838
20 Cp +If+Pp+Eo 622 865 67.67152 56.94375
21 Cp +Rc+Pp+Eo 630 723 67.25572 64.01195
22 Cp +Ab 762 801 60.39501 60.12942
23 Cp +If+Ab 704 747 63.40956 62.81732
24 Cp +Rc+Ab 684 884 64.44906 55.99801
25 Cp +Pp+Ab 752 795 60.91476 60.42807
26 Cp +If+Rc+Ab 615 762 68.03534 62.07068
27 Cp +If+Pp+Ab 706 703 63.30561 65.00747
28 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ab 695 765 63.87734 61.92135
29 Cp +Ai 762 801 60.39501 60.12942
30 Cp +If+Ai 695 748 63.87734 62.76755
31 Cp +Rc+Ai 774 895 59.77131 55.45047
32 Cp +Pp+Ai 684 762 64.44906 62.07068
33 Cp +If+Rc+Ai 715 832 62.83784 58.58636
34 Cp +If+Pp+Ai 602 702 68.71102 65.05724
35 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ai 765 865 60.23909 56.94375
4.4.6.3 K/S analysis of Cp dyed wool fabric
The K/S values of Cp natural dyed wool fabric are given in the
Table 4.72. The average data for K/S value is between 12 and 13 which are
160
considered as good color strength value for textile dyed fabrics. The color
strength of wool fabric dyed by Cp is around 13. In some combination of
dyed wool fabric, the color strength is marginally increased.

wool fabric
S. Natural Dye
L* a* B* C H K/S
No. Application
1 Cp 36.65 -4.84 -15.65 22.21 259.62 12.95
2 Cp +If 35.41 -5.52 -16.41 22.98 245.54 12.02
3 Cp +Rc 34.20 -6.62 -15.02 22.45 250.10 14.32
4 Cp +Pp 32.35 -5.30 -14.54 22.01 262.25 14.51
5 Cp +If+Rc 33.65 -4.14 -15.87 23.32 261.87 12.74
6 Cp +If+Pp 26.98 -5.52 -16.52 22.59 261.45 13.84
7 Cp +Rc+Pp 35.50 -6.65 -15.62 21.21 253.95 13.51
8 Cp +Vn 27.41 -5.74 -14.30 22.70 240.62 14.26
9 Cp +If+Vn 36.20 -4.15 -15.16 23.14 252.30 12.96
10 Cp +Rc+Vn 25.65 -5.85 -14.42 21.54 261.21 13.30
11 Cp +Pp+Vn 33.95 -6.95 -15.62 22.32 255.54 12.25
12 Cp +If+Rc+Vn 36.30 -5.62 -14.35 21.55 254.81 14.41
13 Cp +If+Pp+Vn 35.52 -4.30 -15.01 21.36 258.74 12.15
14 Cp +Rc+Pp+Vn 34.75 -5.21 -16.48 21.20 257.10 14.87
15 Cp +Eo 36.94 -4.54 -15.95 21.41 260.23 12.01
16 Cp +If+Eo 34.62 -5.87 -16.62 22.87 241.56 13.24
17 Cp +Rc+Eo 25.30 -4.95 -14.30 23.25 264.98 14.95
18 Cp +Pp+Eo 34.54 -5.86 -16.25 22.45 245.65 12.60
19 Cp +If+Rc+Eo 25.18 -6.62 -14.15 23.01 260.02 13.32
20 Cp +If+Pp+Eo 36.95 -5.84 -15.01 22.30 261.15 14.54
21 Cp +Rc+Pp+Eo 28.62 -4.75 -14.48 22.62 262.78 12.45
22 Cp +Ab 33.30 -5.52 -15.56 22.75 253.62 13.30
23 Cp +If+Ab 36.04 -6.61 -16.93 22.48 240.02 14.65
24 Cp +Rc+Ab 35.85 -5.40 -14.32 21.56 256.54 12.02
25 Cp +Pp+Ab 34.09 -4.30 -15.01 22.62 245.84 13.14
26 Cp +If+Rc+Ab 29.50 -5.62 -16.45 21.52 249.51 14.84
27 Cp +If+Pp+Ab 33.54 -6.85 -15.98 21.43 248.23 12.75
28 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ab 26.74 -5.74 -16.74 21.85 247.65 14.02
29 Cp +Ai 35.96 -4.54 -15.57 21.45 254.02 12.65
30 Cp +If+Ai 27.82 -5.21 -14.56 21.10 260.14 12.30
31 Cp +Rc+Ai 35.32 -4.62 -15.26 23.02 251.84 14.25
32 Cp +Pp+Ai 26.54 -6.30 -16.15 23.32 245.75 12.41
33 Cp +If+Rc+Ai 25.42 -4.87 -15.84 23.56 250.95 12.01
34 Cp +If+Pp+Ai 27.15 -5.84 -14.21 23.02 262.62 13.47
35 Cp +Rc+Pp+Ai 27.85 -6.52 -15.51 23.04 253.30 14.80

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46

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

The present chapter contains the major results attained in each

4.2 STUDY ON THE CHARACTERISTIC IMPROVEMENT

4.2.1 Berberis Vulgaris (Bv) and its Combination on Cotton Fabric

The results obtained from the application method of berberis

Table 4.1 Application method of berberis vulgaris (Bv) and its

S. Dye Assistants (% owm)

Sodium chloride, sodium carbonate and potash alum are used as

4.2.1.1 FTIR analysis of berberis vulgaris dye extract

The FTIR spectrum of berberis vulgaris natural dye extract is

Figure 4.1- FTIR spectrum of berberis vulgaris dye extract

4.2.1.2 Color fastness property of Bv dyed cotton fabric

The results of the fastness properties towards light, washing and

Table 4.2 Color fastness ratings of berberis vulgaris (Bv) combination

4.2.1.3 Antimicrobial assessment of Bv dyed cotton fabric

The data of antimicrobial properties of Bv dyed cotton samples are

4.2.1.4 K/S analysis of Bv dyed cotton fabric

Table 4.3 Antimicrobial Assessment of Berberis vulgaris (Bv)

S. Natural Dye B.C B.C %R %R

Table 4.4 Colorimetric data of Berberis vulgaris (Bv) combination on

The results obtained from the application method of bixa orellana

Dyeing assistants sodium chloride, sodium carbonate and potash

S. Dye Assistants (% owm)

4.2.2.1 FTIR analysis of bixa orellana dye extract

FTIR spectrum of bixa orellana dye extract is shown in Figure 4.2.

Figure 4.2 FTIR spectrum of bixaorellna dye extract

4.2.2.2 Color fastness property of Bo dyed cotton fabric

The results of the fastness properties towards light, washing and

Table 4.6 Color fastness ratings of bixa orellana (Bo) combination on

Washing Crocking Fastness

4.2.2.3 Antimicrobial assessment of Bo dyed cotton fabric

The data of antimicrobial properties of Bo dyed cotton samples are

4.2.2.4 K/S analysis of Bo dyed cotton fabric

Table 4.7 Antimicrobial assessment of bixa orellana (Bo) combination

S. Natural Dye B.C B.C %R %R

Table 4.8 Colorimetric data of bixa orellana (Bo) combination on cotton

4.2.3 Terminalia Chebula (Tc) and its Combination on Cotton Fabric

The results obtained from the application method of terminalia

Dyeing assistants sodium chloride, sodium carbonate and potash

Table 4.9 Application method of terminalia chebula (Tc) and its

S. Dye Assistants (% owm)

4.2.3.1 FTIR analysis of terminalia chebula dye extract

FTIR spectrum of terminalia chebula dye extract is shown in

Figure 4.3 FTIR spectrum of terminalia chebula dye extract

4.2.3.2 Color fastness property of Tc dyed cotton fabric

The results of the fastness properties towards light, washing and

Table 4.10 Color fastness ratings of terminalia chebula (Tc) combination

4.2.3.3 Antimicrobial assessment of Tc dyed cotton fabric

The data of antimicrobial properties of Tc natural dyed cotton

Table 4.11 Antimicrobial assessment of terminalia chebula (Tc)

S. Natural Dye B.C B.C %R %R

4.2.3.4 K/S analysis of Tc dyed cotton fabric

Table 4.12 Colorimetric data of Terminalia chebula (Tc) combination

4.2.4 Punica Granatum (Pg) and its Combination on Cotton Fabric

The results obtained from the application method of punica

Dyeing assistants sodium chloride, sodium carbonate and potash

Table 4.13 Application method of punica granatum (Pg) and its

S. Dye Assistants (% owm)

4.2.4.1 FTIR analysis of punica granatum dye extract

The FTIR spectrum of punica granatum dye extract is shown in

Figure 4.4 FTIR spectrum of punica granatum dye extract

4.2.4.2 Color fastness property of Pg dyed cotton fabric