Swimming pools - water quality

If not properly maintained, the water in your domestic swimming pool harbours a range of
microbes, including bacteria and algae, that can cause health problems such as ear, nose and
throat infections. You should check your swimming pool regularly to make sure that the water is
healthy. A simple way to do this is to take a daily look into the pool. Is the water clear? Can you
see to the bottom of the pool? Does the water look any different to how it looked the day before?
Any changes, such as cloudiness, mean that you need to test the water and take steps to improve
water quality before anyone goes swimming.

Sources of contamination
Some of the various sources of bacteria and microbes in your pool can include:

 People swimming in the pool - this is the main source of bacteria.

 Animals, such as dogs - some pets like to paddle in the pool on hot days.
 Dead wildlife - for example, frogs or lizards or insects may occasionally drown in your
pool.
 Debris from around the property, such as leaves, grass and dust.

Swimming pool maintenance

The five keys to maintaining water quality in your swimming pool include:
 Filtration
 Chlorination
 pH level
 Total alkalinity (TA)
 Calcium hardness.

Filtration
The water in your pool is pumped through a filter to remove debris and particles. How long you
need to run the filter depends on the size of your swimming pool and the horsepower of your
pool pump. If you are unsure, check your instruction manual or consult with a pool maintenance
company. Remember that even when you are filtering your pool according to specifications,
about 35 per cent of the water still won't be filtered.

Chlorination
Chlorine is a chemical that disinfects the water and helps to remove debris. You should use a
chlorine stabiliser to extend the chlorine's half-life. Generally, the longer your filtration cycle, the
less chlorine you will need. Similarly, the more chlorine you use, the shorter your required
filtration cycle. Remember that your chlorine requirements will be affected by a range of factors
including your pump and filter system, water temperature, water level, amount of debris, and the
number of swimmers in your pool.

pH level
The pH level indicates how acidic or alkaline the water is at any given time. A pH level of 7
means that water is neutral; above 7 means the water is alkaline, while below 7 indicates acidity.
You should aim for a pH level of between 7 and 7.6. If the water pH is higher than 8, anyone who
swims in the pool is at risk of skin rashes, while a pH of lower than 7 can sting the swimmers'
eyes. Some of the many factors that can affect your pool's pH level include heavy rain, lots of
swimmers and pool chemicals. Remember to regularly check your pool's pH level.

Total alkalinity (TA)

Total alkalinity (TA) means the sum of all alkaline chemicals in your water. If TA is too low, the
pH balance can become unstable; concrete and painted pool surfaces will also deteriorate over
time. TA and pH are interconnected; for example, raising the TA could also raise the pH. Make
sure you don't disrupt your pool's pH when adjusting the TA, and vice versa.

Calcium hardness
Calcium hardness refers to the amount of the mineral calcium dissolved in your water. Low
calcium levels will deteriorate pool surfaces, while high calcium levels will leave a 'scum' or scale
on surfaces and equipment.

General water quality suggestions

Be guided by pool professionals, but general suggestions on maintaining good water quality in
your swimming pool include:
 Check your pH and chlorine levels daily. Preferably, these tests should be done before
the first swim of the day, to make sure the water quality hasn't altered overnight.
 In very hot weather, it is a good idea to check the pH and chlorine twice daily.
 Remember that heated pools need more chlorine than non-heated pools.
 Brush and vacuum your pool on a regular basis.
 Regularly check the pump, skimmer boxes and other pool equipment, and repair or
replace parts as necessary.

Solving common problems

Be guided by your pool maintenance specialist or pool chemical supplier, but general suggestions
include:
 Algae - these single-celled organisms have a short life cycle, and can turn the water in
your swimming pool green within a few hours. The cause is zero chlorination, which
allows these organisms to thrive. Treatment includes lowering the pH level by adding
pool acid and, later, adding a copper treatment to the water to kill the spores. You can
use a brush and garden hose to remove algae from pool surfaces. The next day, vacuum
the settled algae from the floor of your pool - don't try to remove it by running the filter.
Make sure you check the TA, pH and calcium hardness before you allow anyone to
swim.
 Faeces - young children can occasionally have a toileting accident while swimming. Get
everyone to vacate the pool, and fish out the faeces using a fine mesh scoop. If your pool
is small, you might consider draining and cleaning it. Otherwise, superchlorinate the
pool for at least half an hour before letting anyone swim. Always ensure chlorine levels
are back to regular levels before swimming.
 Chlorine smell - a strong chlorine smell can affect the eyes, nose and skin. Contrary to
popular belief, it's too little chlorine that causes the smell, not too much. Too little
chlorine permits chloramine compounds to form. It is these compounds that have the
strong smell and that cause the irritation. If your pool smells strongly, check the chlorine
level - you'll find you need to superchlorinate.

Safety suggestions for pool chemicals

Pool chemicals can be dangerous if not handled properly. Suggestions include:
 Keep pool chemicals locked up in a cool, dry place.
 Don't store pool chemicals near other chemicals or flammables, including petrol,
detergents or alcohol.
 Always use chemicals strictly as instructed.
 Don't combine chemicals together - for example, mixing different types of chlorine
together (such as granular and liquid) can cause an explosion.
 To avoid splashing the chemicals, add the chemicals to water - don't add the water to
 the chemicals.

 If you are splashed, rinse contaminated clothing straight away and wash your skin
thoroughly in plenty of water.

Conditions for water disinfection

Disinfection of swimming pool water

Micro-organisms polluted swimming pools. Every swimmer adds 1.000.000 to 1.000.000.000 microorganisms
to the water. The water itself contains microorganisms, as well. After oxidation a disinfectant must be added
to the water to kill pathogenic microorganisms.
Demands on disinfectants
Disinfectants used for swimming pool water disinfection must meet certain demands. They should be
harmless and non-irritating to swimmers and attendants. They must be active in small concentrations and
remain their activity for a long time.
Contrary to drinking water disinfectants, disinfectants for swimming pool treatment must be active in the
pool itself, because pollutions and pathogenic micro-organisms are constantly added to the water. Therefore
the water has to maintain a residual disinfectant concentration. The disinfectant must be easily traced and
measured and should be safe to use.

Disinfection methods for swimming pool water

In some countries, sodium hypochlorite is used for both oxidation and disinfection of swimming pools.
When it is added to water, sodium hypochlorite increases the pH value. It is better to use chlorine as a
disinfectant and an oxidizer at a pH value of 6,5. Often, acid is added to lower the pH value.

Demands on swimming pool conditions

Chlorine-based disinfectants are among the most frequently applied disinfectants and oxidizers for
swimming pool treatment. Chlorine is usually added as hypochlorous acid (HOCl) or hypochlorite (OCl-).
Chlorine kills pathogenic microorganisms that are present in the water. When too much chlorine is present,
it can cause eye and mucous membrane irritation, as a result of chloramine formation.
Threshold and maximum levels are set for chlorine concentration. For available chlorine the minimum
concentration in swimming pools is set to 0,5 milligram per litre. The maximum level is set to 1,5 mg/l.
When using cyanic acid (stabilizer) minimum and maximum values are set to respectively 2,0 and 5,0 mg/L.
For outdoor swimming pools and indoor pools smaller than 20 m2, the maximum level is set to 5,0 mg/l.
Lowering the chlorine concentration is undesirable, because this increases the risk of waterborne diseases.
Alternative disinfectants can be used as well, these decrease the required amount of chlorine or cause
chlorine addition to be irrelevant.
The pH value is measured daily. It should be between 6,8 and 7,8. At a pH of 7,0, the amount of free chlorine
present is 70%, while this concentration decreases to 20% at pH of 8,0.
The water and air temperature in swimming pools is usually high. Furthermore the humidity is high. This
influences the activity of disinfectants and the behaviour of substances that are formed in the swimming
pool during disinfection. When sodium hypochlorite is used, chlorine gas is formed due to reactions with
the acid that is added to lower the pH of the water. Chlorine gas must be removed, because it can be
harmful to human health and corrosive on materials. Chloramines, formed through reactions of ureum and
chlorinated disinfectants, are corrosive as wel

 Sand – The bullet proof filter

Water is pushed through a bed of filter sand and removed through a set of lateral tubes at the bottom. The
filter area of a sand filter is equal to the area of the filter itself. For example, a 24” filter will have 3.14 sqft
of filter area. Only the top 1” of sand is actually used to filter the water. The principle behind this filter is
that water is pushed through the filter sand, somewhat like an espresso machine. Dirty water goes in the
top and clean water exits out the bottom. As the filter sand becomes plugged with debris from the pool,
 the pressure increases on the filter and the water flow drops. In order to clean the filter, you just run it in
reverse and dump the waste water; this is referred to as “backwashing” the filter. Once the filter is
backwashed, you move to the rinse mode and that repacks the sand and then back to filter. This has to be
done manually every few weeks. From a hydraulics standpoint, a backwash valve is typically the most
inefficient piece of equipment you can add to a swimming pool system. Should the sand ever become
really dirty, it is easily and inexpensively replaced. In terms of particle size filtered out, sand is the lease
effective method – it can allow smaller particles to pass back into the pool.
 Cartridge – The economic low maintenance filter.
This one is easy to understand. Water passes though a filter material and the filter captures the debris.
This is just like the water filters used under your sink. Cartridges have much more available area to filter
than sand. Most start at 100 sqft and the majority of the cartridge filters sold are larger than 300 sqft. So
they don’t clog up as quickly and therefore you touch them less frequently. There are two types of
cartridge filters in general. In the first case, there are filters elements that are inexpensive to replace and as
such, they don’t tend to last as long. Then there are other filters that have very expensive elements and
these last 5 or more years. In both cases, cartridge filters are designed to run at lower pressure than sand.
This puts less back-pressure on the pump and hence you get more flow and turnover for an equivalent
pump size. Generally these filters have to be cleaned once or twice a season by simply hosing them off, so
you don’t touch them as often. In terms of particle size filtered out, cartridge is somewhere between sand
and DE.
 DE – The water polisher.
Diatomaceous earth is mined and is the fossilized exoskeletons of tiny diatoms. They are used to coat
“grids” in the filter housing and act as tiny sieves to remove debris. They are very small and as such can
filter out particles as small as 5 microns. Diatom filter area are sized between sand and cartridge – around
60-70 sqft are most common. Once the filter pressure rises, the filter is backwashed just like a sand filter
and then “recharged” with more DE powder. Typically it is poured in a slurry into the skimmer and it
then coats the filter grids. DE filters run at higher pressures than cartridge filters and as such can lead to
some inefficiency and flow loss.

Cleaning the Swimming Pool water

Pollution in pool water comes either from the environment or is carried into the water by the swimmers.
Environmental pollution includes dust, leaves, chemical wastes, pollen, spores, bacteria and so on, that are
blown into the water by the wind. Swimmers carry other pollutants into the water: sweat, suntan oils, urine,
bacteria, viruses, etc.

Every swimming pool has a circulation pump and filter. The filters most common these days are sand filters,
and are much easier to maintain than the earlier diatomaceous filters of a few years back. The pool pump
ensures that the swimming pool water moves through the filter every day, thus removing unwanted
pollutants and disinfected organic materials as quickly as possible.

Other common pool filters include DE (diatomaceous earth) filters, which are able to filter out finer particles
of dirt, though they require more maintenance. Cartridge filters are also quite widespread and are quite
simple to maintain. Nowadays a filter sand substitute containingzeolite is gaining in popularity. The zeolite
(specifically the clinoptilolite mineral) is able to filter particles as finely as DE filters in addition to having a
capacity to absorb ammonia and its complexes (reducing combined chlorine and offensive chlorine odours),
while not requiring any extra maintenance.

Generally, the swimming pool pump should run for at least 6 - 8 hours each day. There is usually a timer
which cycles the pool pump on and off to ensure this constant filtration. The circulation of pool water will
remove floating or suspended particles of dirt from the water, but has no effect on the substances which
have settled to the bottom of the swimming pool or "stuck" to the walls.
Depending on the environmental conditions and swimmer load, the swimming pool needsregular brushing
and vacuuming, generally about once a week in the swimming season for home pools. With the circulation
pump turned off, the walls and floor of the pool are swept with a stiff brush. When the "dust" from the
brushing settles, it is vacuumed off the floor of the swimming pool. The pool must also be vacuumed after
treating with a flocculant. Nowadays, there is a variety of automatic swimming pool cleaners, which suck
the dirt off the walls and floor of the swimming pool whenever the pool pump is running. These are really
great for pool owners who never seem to have the time for swimming pool chores.

Now that the vacuuming is done, it is time to backwash the filter. Sand filters trap dust and dirt, as the
name implies, in a bed of sand. When the filter has accumulated a large amount of dirt, the water cannot
pass freely through the sand and the filter loses efficiency as the pressure increases. Backwashing sends
water backwards through the filter and flushes the trapped dirt out. After backwashing, you will notice an
increase in return pressure to the pool, and if you have a pressure guage, you should notice an increase of at
least 0,5 bar.

With the pool pump off, turn the filter setting to "backwash". Remove the leaf basket from the weir, clean
and replace it. Turn on the pump and let it run until the water coming out of the waste pipe is clear. This
generally needs a few minutes. Turn off the pump and set the filter to rinse; this cleans out the pipes and
prevents any dirt from returning to the pool. It also settles the sand in the filter which has been stirred up by
the backwashing. Run the pump for about a minute and then turn it off. Set the filter to "closed". Open the
leaf trap near the pump, remove the basket and clean out all the leaves, twigs and rubbish it may have
collected. Replace the basket, set the filter to "filter" and turn your pump back to its automatic (timer)
operating position.

Great! The swimming pool looks clean and the filter has been rejuvenated. Now it's time totest the pool
water and adjust the pH and chlorine levels.

If your swimming pool needs topping up, now is the ideal time to put the hose in the pool. It is very healthy
for the swimming pool water to be replaced bit by bit, to prevent it becoming stale and creating chemical
problems or pool water problems. A routine of 5-minute backwashing followed by a 1-minute rinse every
week will ensure that you replace about 5% of the swimming pool water each month. This means a complete
changeover of swimming pool water approximately every 2 years.

REMEMBER too, that the useful lifespan of the sand in your filter is 3-5 years. If you neglect to change the
sand, your filter will not be able to remove the finer particles of dirt and your swimming pool can never be
completely clean. Have the pool filter opened for inspection at least every 2 years to avoid filtration
problems

Swimming pool water treatment

Swimming pool water must undergo treatment, in order to remain clear and clean, free from harmful
substances, bacteria, viruses, algae and other pathogens and suitable for use by swimmers.

Purification steps

Swimming pool water is treated by means of various purification steps (figure 1). The water is first
transported from swimming pools to a water purification plant (1). In the water purification plant, it will
flow through a hair removal filter (2), which removes raw pollutions, such as hairs, plasters and leaves, from
water. After that, a flocculant (3) is added, which causes smaller colloids to bind together. Colloids are
visible floating particles of organic matter, such as skin tissue and textile fibers. This group of pollutants also
concerns colloidal pollutants, such as saliva, soap remains, cosmetic products and skin fats. When these
pollutants are abundant, they cause turbidity.
Parameters that indicate the presence of undissolved particles are water turbidity
and potassium permanganate (KMnO4) demand of the water. Potassium permanganate is used as an
indicator of organic matter oxidation.
Floating particles are removed from water in a sandfilter. The sandfilter is backflushed periodically. Finally,
pollutants are discharged into the sewer.

Read more: http://www.lenntech.com/processes/disinfection/swimming-pool-/swimming-pool-

treatment.htm#ixzz0meQRfZMr

. The balancing tank is located below and beyond the pool wall and it has a suction line going to the
equipment. The tank itself, is filled by pool water that either goes over the edge ( like in a vanishing edge
pool) or via a pipe or channel near the pool surface. The tank itself is the reservoir that the pump takes water
from and filters. That filtered water is then sent back after being treated and heated, to the pool returns. This
fills the pool to the level of the wall (vanishing edge) or to the channel or pipe, for overflow to the balancing
tank. In a nut shell, that's how these pools work. How you plumb it, type of pipe you use, etc, will vary
depending on your local codes. These days, most municipalities will insist on a schedule 40 PVC pipe or a
red stripe poly pipe. If you go with the poly, DON'T use nylon insert fittings. The nylon, though more
expensive, degrades when exposed to chlorine. Use the cheaper poly

Balance Tank
A balance tank is used in pools that do not use skimmer boxes. Its primary use is for the storage of excess
water generated from the displacement of swimmers bodies. A pool with a balance tank maintains a
constant depth regardless of how many people are in the pool. Once the swimmers exit the pool the extra
water that the balance tank has been holding returns to the pool and the balance tank returns to its normal
operating level. The balance tank is also fitted with an equalising and control valve and is an ideal place to
dose chemicals that are able to be "slug dosed". The circulating pump's suction is also located in the balance
tank.fittings and avoid using any galvanized as well

Pool Tile
Pool tile has been around for a long time, mostly because it offers a customized look in a variety of colors
and patterns. The other big advantage to this material is its durability and low maintenance. Aside from
regular cleanings and the occasional re-grouting, this material is built to last with relatively little care. If tile
is your choice in a pool finish, you will be happy to know that in addition to a rainbow of color choices, you
can expand your options even further with a pattern or design. Some pool owners love the look of a random
mosaic dotting the sides of the pool. Others enjoy a mosaic filled with dolphins, turtles and tropical fish
created with colored tiles.
Fiberglass Pools
Fiberglass pools come in prefabricated shapes with steps and platforms built into the surface. These pools
are relatively inexpensive compared to other types of pool finishes, but fairly durable, making them a good
value. Fiberglass offers a smooth, slip-proof finish that families with children may appreciate. The pools are
usually available in a variety of shades of blue and grey for a natural look and feel.
Gunite Finishes
Gunite has become one of the most popular and durable pool finishes today. This concrete mixture is
sprayed onto a rebar infrastructure, allowing more flexibility and strength than traditional poured concrete
pools. These pools can be platered and or painted to dress up the pool's interior. The surface can also be
coated with a skid proof sealant to protect slipping in the pool. Gunite is a wonderfully durable material.
Often times a plaster material is coated over a roughened concrete and give a permanent strong finish.
Additives can be added into the plaster such as aggregate, colored quartz sand and tile insets.