MarB 110 - OCEANOGRAPHY I

Exercise 4: Beach Profiling

Name : Eugene L. Codis Date Performed: February 7, 2020

Lab Sched: TTH (10:00 AM -01:00 PM) Date Submitted: February 27, 2020

INTRODUCTION

A beach is ground at the bottom of a body of water which usually consists of all sorts

of materials-sand, dirt, pebbles, cobbles, stones, or shells. Beach profile is one of the

most studied features of coastal morphology. The shape of the beach profile

determines the vulnerability of the coast to storms (Anders & Byrnes, 1991). “Beach

profile" applies to a cross-sectional outline of the water perpendicular to the high-tide

shoreline which stretches from the backshore cliff or dune to the inside continental

shelf or a position where waves and tides do not move sand to and from the beach.

Wave conditions, sediments, topographical elements, and tides influence the

morphology and short-term shore dynamics. Interactions between these various

forces affect the characteristics of the beach system.

OBJECTIVES
 1. To describe the type of beach or coastal landform in Pangasugan, VSU and

Guadalupe, Baybay City, Leyte.

2. To establish a beach profile of Pangasugan to Guadalupe, Baybay City, Leyte.

3. To present a zonation pattern of the substrate type along the beach.

4. To record and plot data into figures to represent the beach profile of

Pangasugan to Guadalupe, Baybay City, Leyte.

MATERIALS & METHODS

Emery proposed a simple method of beach profiling based on the use of two

graduated rods, whose alignment and reading of the intersection with the horizon

allow for the determination of differences in level along the profile. In spite of some

shortcomings, and because of its simplicity and low cost, researchers and volunteers

alike use the “Emery method” in monitoring studies of sand dunes and beaches.

(Andrade, F. & Ferreira, M. A., 2006)

Figure 1. Beach profiling with emery boards photo taken from:

https://fcit.usf.edu/florida/teacher/science/mod2/resources/emery.board.pdf
 Usually three people are required to measure beach profiles by this method. But

in this case there are 4 people in the group and they were task to exchanged turns as a

rod assistants, recorder and sighter.

A. Site Preparation

Upon arrival at the beach and carrying out a topographic survey, the first duty of

the students was to pick a location and to create a fixed point or reference point.

Students laid a transect line perpendicular to the shore, where the beach layout was

noticed and instantly noted. As the rod traveled toward the water, the disparity in

height / elevation (dz) and lengths (x) between front and back rods was observed.

And then, they divide the students into rod aides, tracker and sighter.

B. Operation

Started at the fixed point, back (landward) rod was placed near or on the fixed

point and the other or the front (seaward) rod was placed meter ahead and this might

be dedicated as a fixed distance (1 meter). At the first point, student A stand and

faced to the sea. Point 1 was the starting point of the reading which is the position of

the back (landward) rod. At point 1, x and dz was zero (0). Student B was task to hold

the front (seaward) rod at every 1 meters interval along the transect line. The time

started was noted. Student C was the sighter of the horizon in line with pole. The pole

was certain that it is balanced/leveled using the bubble level.

At point 2, the distance of the two rods was noted. The difference in elevation

(dz) between Point 1 and Point 2 was acquired by sighting the lower of the two rods

to the horizon and projecting the intersection of the lower rod and the horizon onto

the higher rod. If the beach has a downward slope, reading was made on the back
(landward) rod and recorded as a negative value. If the beach slopes upward, reading

was made at the front (seaward) rod and recorded as a positive value. Remarkable

features or zones was noted (e.g. Vegetation line, berm etc.).

After, the rods was move seaward following the transect orientation, with back

rod at Point 2 and the front rod was moved farther seaward (~1m interval) as Point 3

was established. Distance and elevation measurements was obtained as the rods

moved seaward until the waterline or sea level was reached. As the waterline or sea

level was reached, the time was noted and also the GPS reading. Also, sediment

samples was acquired and a grain size comparator was used to determine the sizes of

the sediments along the transect line.

RESULTS & INTERPRETATION

Location: Pangasugan Beach

Latitude/Longitude: 10°44'46.128''/124°47'10.266''

Transect orientation: 248°

Time started: 8:17 AM Time Ended: 9:05 AM

Description of fixed point: Near a Talisay Tree, a coconut tree and a hut. Before the

vegetation line

Table 1. Raw and processed data from beach profile worksheet of Pangasugan

Beach.

Points x dz Cumulativ Reset to Tide Remarks

(Distance (change e dz Sea Corrected (Sediments)

in meters) in Level
 elevation

in cm)

1 1 0 0 179.7 157.7 Fine sand

2 1 -10.8 -10.8 168.9 146.9 Fine sand

3 1 -10.5 -21.3 158.4 136.4 Small

4 1 -9.8 -31.1 148.6 126.6 Medium

5 1 -8.6 -39.7 140 118 Medium

6 1 -9.6 -49.3 130.4 108.4 Medium

7 1 -9.5 -58.8 120.9 98.9 Medium

8 1 -7.2 -66 113.7 91.7 Large

9 1 -7.1 -73.1 106.6 84.6 Large

10 1 -6.4 -79.5 100.2 78.2 Very Large

11 1 -6.3 -85.8 93.9 71.9 Very Large

12 1 -3.7 -89.5 90.2 68.2 Very Large

Fine and
13 1 2.3 -87.2 92.5 70.5
Small

Fine and
14 1 -8.3 -95.5 84.2 62.2
Small

Fine and
15 1 -15.3 -110.8 68.9 46.9
Small

Fine and
16 1 -4.9 -115.7 64 42
Small

Small
17 1 -5.8 -121.5 58.2 36.2
Rocks

Small
18 1 -2.6 -124.1 55.6 33.6
Rocks

Large
19 1 -5.3 -129.4 50.3 28.3
Rocks

20 1 -6.8 -136.2 43.5 21.5 Large

 Rocks

Large
21 1 -10.8 -147 32.7 10.7
Rocks

-
Large
22 1 -10.7 -157.7 22 2.84217E-
Rocks
14

Large
23 1 -7.5 -165.2 14.5 -7.5
Rocks

Large
24 1 10.3 -154.9 24.8 2.8
Rocks

Large
25 1 -9.1 -164 15.7 -6.3
Rocks

Large
26 1 -9 -173 6.7 -15.3
Rocks

Large
27 1 -6.7 -179.7 0 -22
Rocks

200

150

100

50

0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27

-50

Reset to Sea Level Tide Corrected

 Figure 2. Beach profile of Pangasugan

Location: VSU beach

Latitude/Longitude: 10°44'37.5''/124°47'14.5''

Transect orientation: 240°

Time started: 9:41 AM Time Ended: 9:51 AM

Description of fixed point: Before a coconut tree, near a sea wall, in between the

Sea Front Suite and VSU beach garden

Table 2. Raw and processed data from beach profile worksheet of VSU Beach.

dz

x (change
Cumulativ Reset to Tide Remarks
Points (Distance in
e dz Sea Level corrected (Sediments)
in meters) elevation

in cm)

1 0 0 0 67.1 59.1 Fine

2 1 -12 -12 55.1 47.1 Fine

3 1 -12.9 -24.9 42.2 34.2 small and

medium
 rocks

small and

4 1 -10.5 -35.4 31.7 23.7 medium

rocks

small and

5 1 -1.7 -37.1 30 22 medium

rocks

small and

6 1 -5.6 -42.7 24.4 16.4 medium

rocks

small and

7 1 -4.4 -47.1 20 12 medium

rocks

small and

8 1 -1.2 -48.3 18.8 10.8 medium

rocks

small and

9 1 -3.3 -51.6 15.5 7.5 medium

rocks

small to
10 1 -2.8 -54.4 12.7 4.7
large rocks

small to
11 1 -4.5 -58.9 8.2 0.2
large rocks

small to
12 1 -8.2 -67.1 0 -8
large rocks
 80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
-10
-20

Reset to Sea Level Tide Corrected

Figure 3. Beach profile of VSU beach

Location: Guadalupe Beach

Latitude/Longitude: 10°44'17.604''/124°47'26.04''

Transect orientation: 245°

Time started: 10:44 AM Time Ended: 11:04 AM

Description of fixed point: Near the edge of a wall of a mansion facing the sea, in

the left side.

Table 3. Raw and processed data from beach profile worksheet of Guadalupe Beach.

dz

X ( Change Remarks
Cumulativ Reset to Tide
Points (Distance in (Sediment
e dz Sea Level Corrected
in meters) Elevation Sizes

in cm)

1 0 0 0 181.4 191.4 Sandy

2 1 -11.3 -11.3 170.1 180.1 Sandy

3 1 -10.1 -21.4 160 170 Sandy

4 1 -10.4 -31.8 149.6 159.6 Sandy

5 1 -10.6 -42.4 139 149 Sandy

6 1 -9.6 -52 129.4 139.4 Sandy

7 1 -8.4 -60.4 121 131 Sandy

8 1 0.5 -59.9 121.5 131.5 Pebbles

9 1 -8.9 -68.8 112.6 122.6 Pebbles

10 1 -7.2 -76 105.4 115.4 Pebbles

11 1 -15.2 -91.2 90.2 100.2 Pebbles

12 1 -13.9 -105.1 76.3 86.3 Pebbles

13 1 -12.3 -117.4 64 74 Pebbles

14 1 -4.2 -121.6 59.8 69.8 Pebbles

Medium
15 1 -10.4 -132 49.4 59.4
Rocks

Medium
16 1 -11.8 -143.8 37.6 47.6
Rocks

Visible
17 1 -10.8 -154.6 26.8 36.8
Sand

Visible
18 1 -10.4 -165 16.4 26.4
Sand

19 1 -8.5 -173.5 7.9 17.9 Visible

 Sand

Small
20 0.8 -7.9 -181.4 0 10
Rocks

250

200

150

100

50

0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Reset to Sea Level Tide Corrected

Figure 4. Beach Profile of Guadalupe

 200

150

100

50

0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

-50

Reset to Sea Level (Guadalupe) Tide Corrected (Gudalupe)

Reset to Sea Level (VSU beach) Tide Corrected (VSU beach)
Reset to Sea Level (Pangasugan) Tide Corrected (Pangasugan)

Figure 5. Beach profile in all sites

The raw data in the above tables are found in the first three columns, Points,x

(distance in m), and dz (change in elevation), respectively. The dz value (change in

elevation) column has been added to each other in order to reach the cumulative dz

(change in elevation) from the fixed point until it reaches the water level. Getting

cumulative dz (elevation change) values involves adding zero (0) to point 1 and point

2 elevation change. The step was repeated until the cumulative dz (change of

elevation) was acquired. Cumulative data were added to the positive value of total

cumulative dz but in reverse trend by adding the last point up to the fixed point. The

step is done to determine how the points from the point where land and seawater

meet, which are data found in the Reset to Sea level, were elevated. To have a

comparison, a program called WXTide was used which can predict tide and currents.

The elevation values in which the tide was corrected were acquired with the given

mean tide from the application and with the corresponding time we commenced the

exercise. To arrive at the Tide Corrected values, the mean tide was then added to the

values in the Reset to SL column.

 It is clear from the results given that negative elevation values contribute to a

sloping downward trend, while positive values increase the trend. As a result, most of

the data collected where the negative value in the data collection is most evident in

the beach slope. Those points with positive elevation values have led to an increase in

the slope or berm which can be seen in the figures above.

The individual beach profiles Pangasugan (Figure 1), VSU (Figure 2), and

Guadalupe (Figure 3) were presented above. And the beach profiles of the three sites

for comparison were shown in Figure 4.

When the three sites ' beach profile was compared by plotting all of their values

in a single chart (Figure 4), some observations might be made. Both Pangasugan and

Guadalupe beach profile has a similar downward sloping trend with two fair-weather

berms. The VSU beach, however, is unique to the three locations. It has a steep trend

in the slope but it has a berm that has made a significant plain and then follows a

gentle slope. However, these may be induced by human activity of deposition of the

sediments to the seawall, it is eroded at high tides.

DISCUSSION

General beach profile characteristics of the study area

Leyte was designated a research field for beach sampling at three locations in the

city of Baybay. Namely beach of Pangasugan, the beach of VSU and the beach of

Guadalupe. The general beach design characteristics of the three locations are the

fair-weather berm and a sloping downward. Beach profiling is a simple survey

technique employed to measure a beach's contour. There are some factors in nature

that affect the shape of beach profiles. These may be divided into factors that are
active and passive. Active factors include; waves, tides, winds, rainfall, temperature

and duration of influence of active factors. Passive factors include; beach material,

initial profile shape, geology and/or other constraints. On the results or analysis, the

shift in tides by which time began deciding and time finished with the aid of

WXTide, and the forms and sizes of sediments are the only factors observed.

The three sites have the same general features, the fair-weather berms and slope

downward. Although, some site characteristics (e.g., vegetation) vary. Pangasugan

beach is distinguished by fine sand near the fixed point and it expands into small to

medium, medium to large and very big rocks and fine sand was found at 13 meters

and it goes the same way, it rises towards the seaward. Pangasugan beach was the

longest of the three sites with a length of 27 meters, from the fixed point to the sea

level. Fine, small and medium rocks were observed for VSU beach, and as it heads

towards the seaward, large rocks were visible and this site was the shortest with 12

meters shorter. And it's 20 meters long for Guadalupe with a sandy layer at the fixed

point to pebbles, pebbles to medium rocks, so clear sand and rocks to the seaward.

Zonation pattern based on the substrate

The zonation pattern was observed in the three sites and analyze which may

contribute to the formation of beach sediment in the areas .Zonation refers to trends

that are detected in a neighborhood from a distance, based on the distinct fauna and

flora contained along the region. Although the dominant species inhabiting them

define the different zones, the division of zones is not always a simple straight line,

but rather there is some overlap of species, especially where the zones intersect. The

presence or abundance of a species in an area depends on various biotic factors, such

as altitude, temperature, and salinity, as well as abiotic factors, such as predation, and
competition for food and space. This results in zoning, since each species is adapted

to the survival of specific conditions not found everywhere [ CITATION Bio17 \l 13321 ].

Through defining the components of sand you can determine what the sand consists

of. The source of soils, biogenic sand and abiogenic sand, can be commonly divided

into two groups. Biogenic components are live components of an ecosystem, or one-

time components. Abiogenic elements are the non-living chemical and physical

constituents of an ecosystem [ CITATION Exp \l 13321 ] The sand or substratum on the

sites were mostly abiogenic components, and only a bit of biogenic origin, such as

straws of plant material, may come from the vegetation, or may just be brought on by

waves from another place of origin. Consequently, since the substratum mainly

consists of abiogenic components, the zoning patterns are not quite established.

These may be attributed to the limited abundance and diversity of life in the beach's

near-shore region.

Possible factors that influences the beach profile in three sites

The potential factors influencing the beach profile in Pangasugan, VSU, and

Guadalupe, Baybay City Leyte include sediment source, sediment size, and waves.

Due to the size of the sediments, they generally have steep slopes that are mostly fine

to coarse to large cobbles. Larger sediment size absorbs most water from swash and

fewer grains move back to the sea leaving sediments accumulating and piling up to

form steep slopes. The source of sediments also contributes to the beach profile

resulting in a difference in steepness of a slope for different sources. Those of

biogenic origin tend to have finer sediment sizes than those of the river-derived ones

like stones, gravels, and cobbles. Waves affect the sample sites ' appearance on the

water. The sites were subjected to high-wave energy waves which resulted in the
erosion of larger sediments onto the beach, which was evident on the beach coastline

and offshore transport of finer sediments. Lastly, the shift in tides by which time

began deciding and time finished with the aid of WXTide, and the forms and sizes of

sediments are the only factors observed.

Significant sediment deposition or erosion

Significant soil erosion was detected as visible in the coconut roots

exhibited, which were allegedly concealed beneath the ground. The dirt that protected

the coconut tree's roots was destroyed when the waves conquered them. There was

also evidence of substantial erosion, like berms. The observed berms are in the

category of fine-weather because they were formed during fine-weather and not by a

storm that could be close to the study areas ' fixed points.

CONCLUSION

Pangasugan, VSU, and Guadalupe beaches, Baybay City, Leyte are the

intermediate of a type of sandy and cobble beach. Place sediment size is comparable

in the pattern. The sediments in the near-shore are larger then gradually decrease as

they approach the backshore to the area's vegetation. The slopes of these beaches are

defined with those sizes to be gentle and steep. The sediments are mostly river-

derived, which is evident at the three sites ' location. They are in two barangays

divided by two rivers: Lago-Lago and Calbiga-a. Backshore length also depends on

the size of the sediments. The beach with better sand like the Guadalupe Beach has

longer backshore for the waves hold the larger sediments then move smaller offshore

sediments. Then, the finer sediments would be deposited back to the shore as time
goes by and an extension is made. Significant depositions are also mainly caused by

the shore's steepness, the thickness of the sediments and the intensity of the waves

that bear them.

RECOMMENDATION

For future conductivity of the exercise, the researcher would like to recommend

that the profiling should extend to the beach foreshore. This is to establish a

substratum zoning trend around research region beaches. However, the researcher

suggests for data consistency and precision reasons the gap interval should be 0.5

meters. Furthermore, future studies should have different beach profiles with

different types of beach to produce comparison into what separates this kind of beach

from the others.

REFERENCES

https://link.springer.com/referenceworkentry/10.1007%2F1-4020-3880-1_37

https://www.jcronline.org/doi/pdf/10.2112/SI75-261.1

https://www.jcronline.org/doi/full/10.2112/04-0387.1

https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/80f7/fa3aa12d5d3a31ff52800b44984ecb16b3bb.pdf

http://njseagrant.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/beach_zonation.pdf

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/262879945_Vertical_zonation_is_the_main

_distribution_pattern_of_littoral_assemblages_on_rocky_shores_at_a_regional_scale

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0272771496900335
https://www.jstor.org/stable/4449211?seq=1

https://biologydictionary.net/zonation/