SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS

ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING & TECHNOLOGY SHOWCASE

-REGISTRATION MATERIAL-
December 9-10, 2010 New York Hilton Hotel, New York City
Annual Scientific Meeting program arranged by the Society's Committee on Scientific Affairs
Jim Vlasic, Chair

REGISTRATION
FULL registration includes admission to the Technical Sessions, the Luncheons on Thursday
and Friday, the Technology Showcase, and the Suppliers’ Cocktail Reception on Thursday
evening. STUDENT registration includes the Technical Sessions, Technology Showcase and
lunch on Thursday and Friday. NOT included in base registration are Continuing Education
Programs and hotel accommodations. A discount of $25 off the registration fee will be
given if you register for the full Meeting (both days) and a Continuing Education
Course.
THURSDAY ONLY registration includes admission to the Technical Sessions, the
Luncheon on Thursday, the Technology Showcase, and the Suppliers’ Cocktail Reception on
Thursday evening. FRIDAY ONLY registration includes admission to the Technical
Sessions, the Luncheon on Friday and the Technology Showcase.
SPLIT registration allows two individuals from the same company to attend sessions with
one individual attending on Thursday and one on Friday. SPLIT registration includes access
for only those functions scheduled on the day on which each individual registrant is
attending. There are no exceptions. Split registrations will be accepted until November 30th.
There will be no split registrations accepted at the door. The split registration fee covers both
individuals.
UNEMPLOYED members are invited to attend the technical sessions free of charge; please
report to the SCC Registration Desk for your name badge.
ON SITE registration will be available, however, the registration fees will be much higher
($750 for Members and $850 for Non Members). It is highly recommended that you pre-
register to avoid waiting and to save money.
HOTEL reservations MUST be made directly with the SCC National Office. The SCC
Room Block and Rate at the New York Hilton & Towers are reserved through the National
Office on a first-come-first-served basis by November 16th. Neither the Society nor the New
York Hilton are responsible for the availability of rooms for reservations received after
November 17th. ABSOLUTELY NO HOTEL RESERVATIONS WILL BE MADE
INFORMATION
WITHOUT PAID RECEIPT OF ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING
REGISTRATION FEES. Once the Registration fee is paid, then the National Office will
secure a hotel room for the registrant at the New York Hilton. Only one room reservation per
registrant will be accepted. Due to the high demand for hotel reservations over the
weekend following the conference (Friday and Saturday) and limited number of rooms
available on these nights, we recommend you make “back up” arrangements in the
event that the SCC block becomes sold out. Please complete the hotel reservation form
attached and include credit card information. The SCC is acting as the Housing Bureau in an
attempt to be fair to those members and non-members who register to attend the Annual
Meeting. After our registrants have been entered, then the room block will be opened for
reservations.
Confirmations will be sent via email from the New York Hilton within one week after
your registration and reservation forms are received. Please be sure to confirm all
information on your reservation is correct upon receipt o the email.
If you send your registration in without a hotel form and decide later to request a room,
your request will be handled in the order in which it is received. It will not matter if you
have already registered for the meeting. For those registering online and wishing to
make a reservation please fax your reservation form immediately upon completion of
your online registration.
REGISTRANTS may pick up their registration material beginning Wednesday, December
8th at the SCC Registration Desk between 5:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. Those registered for
Continuing Education Programs may pick up their course registration material on the
morning of the course beginning at 8:00 a.m. outside the rooms scheduled for these sessions.
The Supplier Cocktail Reception will run from 5:00 to 7:00 p.m. on Thursday Evening.
New for 2010: The Technology Showcase will run from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. on
Thursday and from 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. on Friday.

HOW TO REGISTER
COMPLETE the enclosed form and mail (with a check made payable to the SCC or credit card payment information) to Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 120 Wall Street, Suite 2400, New
York, NY 10005-4088. Type or print your name and company as you wish it to appear on your badge. Please make sure to include your telephone number and company address. You
must mail your check to the SCC National Office with a copy of the Registration Form so that proper credit can be issued. FAXED registrations are only acceptable with credit card
payment information included (212-668-1504). Meeting Registration Forms received without the Hotel Reservation Form will not be registered at the New York Hilton.
Registrants may also register for the meeting online. For more information, please visit the SCC Website, www.scconline.org.

POLICIES
Pre-Printed badges will be made available only to those who register prior to December 3, 2010. Registrants will be included on the Pre-Registration List of Attendees after receipt
of payment. Requests for refunds in writing and no later than November 19th will be granted, less a $150 service fee. Registration fees are transferable to another registrant but
not refundable after November 19, 2010. The Society of Cosmetic Chemists cannot be held responsible for forms lost in the mail.

SECURITY
BADGES AND WRISTBANDS MUST BE WORN TO ALL TECHNICAL SESSIONS, LUNCHEONS, EXHIBITS AND SOCIAL EVENTS. IF THE PROPER SCC
BADGE IS NOT DISPLAYED, YOU WILL BE ASKED TO EITHER LEAVE THE MEETING SITE, OR REGISTER FOR THE MEETING.

1
 SCIENTIFIC
Thursday, December 9, 2010
9:00 a.m. – 11:00 a.m.
SUN PROTECTION
Moderator — Howard Epstein, Ph.D.
Nothing to See but Also Nothing to Hide: An Evaluation of
the Skin Penetration Capability of Nanoparticles Used in
Sunscreens
OBJECTIVE: Cosmetic formulators have been using nanoparticles in
sunscreen products for the last two decades because of the transparency
of the applied product film. Recently, organizations representing the
general public’s interests have issued warnings about the dangers of
nanotechnology, in particular about those nanoparticles that are
frequently used in cosmetics, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. In order
to cause these detrimental effects, they have to penetrate into the living
skin layers, but do they really?
METHODOLOGY: All published papers (up till November 2010)
investigating the skin penetration of nanoparticles have been reviewed
to objectively answer the question whether they penetrate human skin,
with the aim to obtain a helicopter view on whether nanoparticles can
penetrate skin at all and then to apply this knowledge to nanoparticles
used in cosmetics.
RESULTS: This review leads to the conclusion that skin penetration of
nanoparticles can occasionally occur but only when the experimental
conditions fit one or more of the following characteristics: (1) skin with
Inorganic UV Filter Composites for Better Safety
and Performance
OBJECTIVE: Sunscreen agents are important to protect consumers
from harmful UV damage. However, there are safety concerns over
many actives. For example, nano sized inorganic UV filters are feared
for their ability to penetrate skin. The interaction among organic UV
filters and their dermal absorption have been a concern for consumers
and formulator alike. Therefore, there is a need to constrain sunscreen
actives in a matrix without jeopardizing its efficacy and sensory feel.
METHODOLOGY: Ultrafine TiO2 and ZnO were entrapped in Nylon
and PMMA. The encapsulation in Nylon was done by kneading a
mixture of nylon, a water-soluble auxiliary component and TiO2 or ZnO
and subjecting this composite to water followed by membrane filtration.
Encapsulation in PMMA was made by emulsion polymerization of a
dispersion of TiO2 or ZnO in MMA monomer.
The size and structure were analyzed using electron microscopy and
particle size analyzer. They were formulated in sunscreen lotions and
their performance was tested by in-vivo testing. They were also
formulated with organic sunscreens, especially with avobenzone.
Stability was tested by measuring PFA at different time intervals or by
measuring the residual amount of avobenzone using spectrophotometer.
2
SESSION A
Johann Wiechers, Ph.D.
JW Solutions
a high follicular density is used (i.e., young animal skin); (2) skin is
mechanically insulted (sandpapered or flexed); (3) the nanoparticles’
size is smaller than 10nm; (4) the core within the nanoparticle is a metal;
(5) the coating of the nanoparticle is neutral or positively charged.
CONCLUSIONS: As the nanoparticles used in cosmetics are normally
applied to healthy human skin, consist of a TiO2 or ZnO core with a
negatively charged coating and are at least 40-60nm in size, it is not
amazing that until April 2010 when this abstract was written, all
published scientific studies have concluded that nanoparticles used in
cosmetics do penetrate into the stratum corneum but not into the living
components of human skin. It is also concluded that the cosmetic
industry needs to be much more transparent in its use of nanotechnology
as there is nothing to hide in the first place. Cosmetics needs
nanotechnology to create transparent sunscreen products but the
cosmetic industry needs to be transparent about its nanotechnology to
gain its customers. Nanotechnology, there may be nothing to see, but
there is also nothing to hide....
David Schlossman, Yun Shao, Ph.D., Pascal Delrieu and
Carl Orr
Kobo Products, Inc.
RESULTS:
1. No existence of nano particles was found in size analysis of the
composites of ultrafine TiO2 or ZnO. The in-vivo testing showed that
composites provided a reasonable efficacy. However, due to the limit of
active content in the composites, the composites were found to be more
useful in combination with organic sunscreens. The TiO2 composition
was found to boost SPF as expected but improved PFA scores at a
surprisingly high level. The composite ZnO did not have much SPF
boosting effect, but boosted PFA at an expected level.
2. When TiO2 or ZnO composite were used in combination with
avobenzone, they were found not to cause any noticeable degradation.
The use of inorganic UV filters and the incorporation of a microsphere
at the mean time was able to improve substantially the skin feel of
sunscreen lotions.
CONCLUSIONS: The encapsulation of ultrafine inorganic UV filters
were found to eliminate completely the existence of nano particles. They
remained UV active, especially when used in combination of organic
UV filters. In addition, their spherical shape and particulate nature
improved the sensory feel of the sunscreen lotions in study.
 SCIENTIFIC SESSION
Oxothiazolidine: A Safe and Bioavailable Antioxidant
Opposes to Deep-Penetrating Solar Radiations
OBJECTIVE: Oxothiazolidine (OTZ) was designed for protection
against deeply penetrating radiations ultraviolet A (UVA) and near
infrared (IRA), both being responsible for photoaging of the skin. UVA
has long been in the focus, but it only recently that skin damaging effects
of infrared, and especially IRA, have been discovered. It was shown that
IRA deeply penetrate in the dermis and generate ROS directly into the
mitochondria of fibroblasts. Leakage of mitochondrial ROS in the
cytoplasm then triggers the production of collagen-degrading Matrix
Metallo Proteinase 1 (MMP1).
METHODOLOGY: OTZ was designed for bioavailability using in
silico tools and a predictive algorithm. OTZ percutaneous absorption
was assessed with human skin explants. Regular biochemical methods
were used to assess ROS, RNS (reactive nitrogen species), and RCS
(reactive carbonyl species) scavenging properties of OTZ. Photo-
protection against UVA and IRA was demonstrated using 2D & 3D in
vitro systems, and human skin explants.
FRONTIERS OF SCIENCE AWARD LECTURE
SPONSORED BY COSMETICS & TOILETRIES®
STRATUM CORNEUM LIPID COMPOSITION AND
STRUCTURE IN RELATION TO BARRIER FUNCTION
Lipids in the stratum corneum provide barriers against the penetration of
molecules and particles into the skin and participate in protection
against microbial colonization. The structural lipids of the stratum
corneum consist mainly of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. The
fatty acids of stratum corneum are mostly straight-chained saturated
species with 20 – 28 carbons. The ceramides represent a structurally
diverse group of sphingolipids. The base components contain
sphingosine/dihydrosphingosine (S), phytosphingosine (P) and 6-
hydroxysphingosine (H), and the amide-linked fatty acids include
normal fatty acids (N), α-hydroxyacids (A) and ω-hydroxyacids (O). In
the free ω-hydroxyacid-containing ceramides, linoleate is found ester-
linked to the ω-hydroxyl group (prefix E). The normal fatty acids in the
ceramides are mostly 20 – 28 carbons long and lack double bonds or
methyl branches. The α-hydroxyacids are also straight and saturated and
range from 16 – 28 carbons in length. The ω-hydroxyacids are 30 – 34
carbons long. The linoleate-containing acylceramides, EOS, EOP and
EOH, are responsible for organization of the free lipids into trilaminar
units. The long alkyl chains and cylindrical shapes of the stratum
corneum free fatty acids and ceramides makes them well suited to form
highly ordered and, thereby, impermeable membranes. The cholesterol
may provide a degree of fluidity to these membrane systems. These
membrane structures determine the diffusional resistance of the stratum
corneum to small molecules. In addition to the free lipids, the stratum
corneum also contains covalently bound ceramides. These consist of
ceramides OS, OP and OH, and they are covalently attached through
3
A (CONTINUED)
Jean-Francois Nicolay, Ph.D.
Exsymol SAM
RESULTS: OTZ is a large spectrum antioxidant scavenging hydroxyl
radical, hydrogen peroxide, peroxynitrite, and several RCS, including
the highly cytotoxic 4-hydroxynonenal. Upon ROS and RNS
scavenging, OTZ transforms into taurine, a compound naturally present
in the skin, which accounts for safety and provides additional benefit.
OTZ can access the dermis and protects dermal cells against UVA-
generated ROS. We also show that OTZ enters into the fibroblasts and
scavenges IRA-generated ROS in their cytoplasm.
CONCLUSION: OTZ unique features enable deep-sited antioxidant
protection. OTZ can thus oppose to the damaging effects of deep-
penetrating radiations UVA and IRA, and limits skin aging.
Philp W. Wertz, Ph.D.
University of Iowa
ester linkages between the ω-hydroxyl group and acidic groups on the
outer surface of the corneocyte envelope. The covalently bound lipid
layer contributes to the impermeability of the corneocytes and may
provide a template upon which the lamellae formed from the free lipids
form. In transmission electron micrographs with ruthenium tetroxide
post-fixation one trilaminar unit with a 13 nm overall width and broad-
narrow-broad lucent bands is seen between the edges of adjacent
corneocytes in the same layer of stratum corneum. Between the broad
flat surfaces of corneocytes in adjacent layers of stratum corneum
contain multiple trilamellar units, again with a 13 nm width. The 13 nm
units between the edges of corneocytes are thought to represent
interdigitated covalently bound ceramides with some free lipids filling
in some of the space. This imposes a strict limit on the physical size of
particles that could penetrate through the stratum corneum intercellular
space. The follicular route of penetration provides an alternative
pathway that can accommodate much larger particles but is of limited
importance on most regions of skin. The face and scalp are exceptions
to this. In addition to the major structural lipids, the stratum corneum
also contains free sphingosine/dihydrosphingosine and is coated with
sebaceous lipids including lauric acid (C12:0) and sapienic acid
(C16:1Δ6). These lipids are potent antimicrobials and contribute to an
antimicrobial barrier.
 SCIENTIFIC SESSION
Thursday, December 9, 2010
1:30 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.
GENOMICS
Moderator — Karl Lintner, Ph.D.
Correlation Between Cell Viability and DNA Damage:
Studying Chromosomal Effect of Cosmetic Substances
METHODOLOGY: Chinese hamster ovary cells (CHO-K1) where
exposed to test compounds with and without metabolic activation. After
incubation, cells were fixed and observed under the microscope for
micronuclei counting. Cell viability was examined by 3-(4, 5-
dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2, 5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay
and statistical significance was analyzed using ANOVA. Genotoxicity
of studied compounds was evaluated using Aroclor-1254 induced S9
mix. Two positive controls were tested; cyclophosphamide that requires
S9 activation and ethyl methanesulfonate that does not. Cells were
cultured and then incubated with the test compounds and controls. After
24 hours of the incubation the media from all the flasks were removed,
cells were fixated and the nuclei were stained. The cells were then
observed under microscope for detecting the presence of micronuclei.
RESULTS: The two positive controls were tested: cyclophosphamide
with metabolic activation and ethyl metanesulfonate induced substantial
genetic damage leading to the formation of micronuclei. In contrast,
cellular nuclei appeared intact after the incubation with test compounds.
Cellular viability measurements indicated that the test compounds and
A Review of Current Analytical Genomic Techniques Used
for Gene Expression Profiling of the Skin
OBJECTIVE: To review all of the major small scale and large scale
methodologies used for gene expression profiling in the skin and their
application to the cosmetic industry.
METHODOLOGY: The details of each review will include
evaluations on protocol designs, benefits, limitations as well as data
interpretation tools used for each of the major methods as they apply to
cosmetics.
4
B (CONCURRENT)
Nava Dayan, Ph.D., Tamara Minko, Ph.D. and Vatsal Shah
Lipo Chemicals, Inc. and Rutgers University School of Pharmaceutics
the two positive controls did not inhibit the growth of cells.
Interestingly, ethyl metanesulfonate significantly enhanced cellular
viability (P < 0.05).
CONCLUSION: While our industry is actively seeking for compounds
that will possibly regulate the expression of specific genes we should
employ safety assessment studies to ensure DNA integrity. This study
demonstrates that conducting cell viability assessment concurrently with
observation of chromosomal aberrations allows differentiating between
cell death related to metabolic dysfunction and death that is caused by
mutations of the DNA. It can assist in the identification of substances
that may not promote cell death but can induce significant chromosomal
changes that can potentially lead to carcinogenicity. Ethyl
metanesulfonate may have generated a shift in cellular function that
caused elevation in cell proliferation.
.
Remona Gopaul
Nu Skin Enterprise
RESULTS: Recommendations based on comparisons between all of the
major small scale and large scale technologies will be made to guide the
cosmetic scientist in efficiently choosing the right method for their
genomic experiments based on specific study objective and goals.
.
CONCLUSION: Although there are many different types of genomic
techniques available to the cosmetic industry, not all of them can be
efficiently applied to cosmetics. This review offers critical information
for each of the major genomic techniques and their specific application
to the cosmetic industry.
Session B is Continued on Page 5
 SCIENTIFIC SESSION
Achillea Millefolium Extract: An Innovative
Anti-Aging Neuro-Cosmetic Ingredient?
So far, neurocosmetics have primarily been linked to well-being and
sensitive skin related claims. Although the skin is a major interface in
sensorial perception, the relations between skin and nervous system
appear to be much more complex. The role of neuropeptides notably in
epidermal homeostasis is of great importance.
POMC is the acronym for pro-opiomelanocortin. POMC is a pro-
peptide originally described in the pituitary that was later shown to be
expressed in many organs, including the skin. After enzymatic cleavage,
POMC pro-peptide gives rise to multiple neuro-peptides including
ACTH and β-endorphin. These latter were shown to have significant
implications in epidermal function: β-endorphin induces keratinocyte
differentiation and epidermal thickening. ACTH stimulates keratinocyte
proliferation.
Since POMC-derived peptides normally participate in the normal
functioning of the epidermis, and since epidermal functioning is
disturbed with aging, we studied the age related variations of POMC as
well as the related-receptors in aged epidermis. We discovered that
POMC significantly increased with aging whereas MC-2R and MOR-1,
the respective receptors for ACTH and β-endorphin continuously
decreased with a dramatic drop after the age of 50. This appears as the
hallmark of an age-disturbed balance between neuropeptide (POMC)
and receptors (MC-2R and MOR-1) that could have implications in age-
related epidermal dysfunction.
Looking for a cosmetic ingredient that would boost expressions of MC-
2R and MOR-1 in cultured normal human epidermal keratinocytes
(NHEK) from old donors, we identified Achillea millefolium extract as
the most potent one. Indeed, a water extract of Achillea millefolium
Comprehensive Exploration of Efficacy through
Vector Analysis
DNA microarrays have become invaluable tools to cosmetic and
personal care product development. These test methods give scientists
the ability to explore how active ingredients influence properties of skin
at the level of RNA expression. This information is an important first
step in identifying how skin reacts to various actives. While DNA
microarrays have introduced a new realm of possibilities for claim
identification, their data outputs are notoriously vast and difficult to


B (CONTINUED)
Boris Vogelgesang, Sabine Pain, Cecile Altobelli and Valerie Andre-Frei
BASF Beauty Care Solutions
extract at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% dose-dependently
increased the mRNA expression of MC-2R and MOR-1 in monolayer
cultures of normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) as measured
using quantitative RT-PCR methods. Moreover, MOR-1 and MC-2R
protein syntheses were significantly increased by x2.8 and x19
respectively vs. untreated control after a 48h incubation in the presence
of Achillea millefolium extract at 0.5% as quantified using Western-blot
methods.
The ability of a 72h hour incubation with Achillea millefolium extract at
0.5% to improve the expression pattern of epidermal differentiation
markers was next assessed in full-thickness skin biopsies from a 60-year
old donor. Involucrin, filaggrin and cytokeratin 10 expressions were
thus measured using image analysis after specific immuno-staining. All
three markers were increased and/or their expression profile improved
compared to untreated biopsies incubated in the culture medium alone.
Finally, as measured using automated image analysis, the epidermal
thickness of biopsies was also significantly increased by 10% compared
to untreated biopsies after 72h of incubation with Achillea millefolium
extract at 0.5%.
In vitro results show that Achillea millefolium extract significantly and
dose-dependently increases production of MC-2R and MOR-1 receptors
in NHEK. In addition, full-thickness skin biopsies incubated in the
presence of Achillea millefolium extract apparently display a normalized
pattern of differentiation marker. In vivo studies are now in progress to
evaluate the ability of a cosmetic formula containing 2% of Achillea
millefolium extract to improve the appearance of aging skin.
Erica Babson, Barbara Brockway, Ph.D., Durant Scholz and Peter Dow
Active Concepts, LLC
interpret and evaluate. Vector analysis systems have begun to solve this
problem by easily identifying patterns in gene regulation and by
approaching and analyzing microarray data in a more manageable,
holistic way. Combining the breakthrough technology of DNA
microarrays with a more user-friendly data analysis system will
influence how actives are developed and how claims are substantiated in
the future.
5
 SCIENTIFIC SESSION
Thursday, December 9, 2010
1:30 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.
INNOVATION IN HAIR STYLING
Moderator — Jim Vlasic.
Hair Vibrance Factor: A New Claim for Combination of Hair
Shine with Color Strength
OBJECTIVE: The research is conducted to develop a new technology
to support a new claim of combination of hair shine/luster with color
strength — Hair Vibrance Factor (HVF). HVF has been defined,
validated, and used to study effects of cosmetic treatments on different
types of colored hair. The correlation between objective measurements
and subjective evaluations has been investigated.
METHODOLOGY: A SAMBA hair system from Bossa Nova
Technologies, Venice, CA has been used for measurements of hair
Luster (LBNT), Chroma (C), Shine (S), and Overlapping Coefficient
(Oc). The HVF can be calculated from the following equation:
HVF = LBNT * (1 + Oc)
Penetration and Substantivity of Materials in Hair
OBJECTIVE: Very often in the cosmetic industry we find ourselves
focused on large molecules such as surfactants, polymers, oils and
proteins. However, due to their size, the activity of such materials with
hair is likely restricted to the surface; or at least the very outer regions.
In order for a material to significantly alter the bulk properties, one
would presume that penetration into the hair should readily occur -
preferably with some retention. However, surprisingly, the scientific
literature in this area is rather sparse.
Undoubtedly, the molecule which has the biggest effect on hair is water.
The properties of wet and dry hair are clearly very different; while
intermittent states relating to different relative humidity also produce
very noticeable effects. There is already a sizable literature relating to
the penetration and interactions of water in hair and consequently this
work provides a spring-board for our studies.
Adsorption isotherms will be shown for various volatile materials with
hair. These include commonly-used formulation ingredients (solvents,
oils, fragrance) and also some model compounds intended to yield
fundamental learning. Findings lead to contemplation of potential
adsorption pathways and adsorption sites, while also noting the sizable
influence of adsorption rates. Furthermore, as our understanding
develops, it becomes possible to postulate and pursue pathways for
specifically tailoring the bulk properties of hair.
METHODOLOGY: Adsorption isotherms for volatile materials were
generated by a gravimetric approach involving commercially-available
Dynamic Vapor Sorption (DVS) equipment from Surface Measurement
6
C (CONCURRENT)
Timothy Gao, Ph.D., Sam Zhu and Peter Landa
Croda, Inc.
RESULTS: HVF values of various colored hair samples before and
after cosmetic treatments were determined. Dyed Auburn-colored hair
showed larger increases in LBNT, Oc, and HVF than those of white and
dark hairs. It was observed that larger change in HVF value, more shine
with vibrant/stronger color the hair looks.
CONCLUSION: A new technology of measuring HVF of hair has been
developed and used to study effects of cosmetic treatments on various
hair samples. The HVF can be used to quantitatively describe changes
in combination of hair shine with color strength/intensity. The
instrumental results showed good agreements with panelists’
observations.
Trefor Evans, Ph.D., Don Harper, Kimun Park and Jeff Yang
TRI-Princeton
Systems. Meanwhile, adsorption of non-volatile “actives” was
determined by measuring concentration depletion of aqueous solutions
after immersing hair tresses under different conditions. Additional
complimentary mechanistic information was obtained from swelling
experiments (performed using a laser micrometer) and from
conventional Dia-stron tensile testing.
RESULTS:
While water readily penetrates into hair fairly quickly, results will show
that the same is not true for other small volatile molecules. For example,
ethanol adsorption occurs drastically slower. This raises a number of
fundamental questions about the penetration of materials into hair. For
example, if such a small molecule, with hydrogen-bonding capability,
penetrates and adsorbs so slowly, then what is the likelihood of bigger
molecules adsorbing? Also, given the very different adsorption profiles,
does ethanol adsorption occur in the same regions of the hair?
Additional results will be shown suggesting that ethanol appears to
adsorb at the same sites as water; although methanol absorption
isotherms potentially suggest an ability to access other regions in the
hair. Isotherms will also be shown for other model materials and
cosmetic ingredients in an attempt to further probe penetration ability.
Additional results will also show how materials can be adsorbed which
appear to block water-binding sites and consequently lead to significant
reduction in moisture adsorption. These materials can be delivered from
aqueous solutions; but, again, considerable time may be necessary for
penetration to occur.
 SCIENTIFIC SESSION
CONCLUSION: Studies are on-going in an attempt to better
understand the penetration of cosmetic ingredients into hair. To date,
experiments have involved a combination of common cosmetic
ingredients, together with some model systems. Findings appear to
suggest that any penetration of volatile ingredients (such as solvents,
Hair Health: Effect of Diameter, Density, and Age
It is well known that women lose satisfaction with hair quality as they
age. For centuries, humans have fought this decline in hair health and
appearance through changes in habits and practices such as teasing,
dying, permanent waves and straightening.
While several small studies implicate multiple scalp hair parameters
with advancing age, including decreased shaft diameter and terminal
hair density, few comprehensive data sets exist. The paucity of scalp
related hair data is the result of the extreme cost, vast number of hairs,
enormous variability between individual hairs and individuals, impact of
life and environmental factors, and lack of robust, reproducible
methods.
This presentation will summarize changes in hair diameter and density
across several recent studies with current methods. In the reviewed
studies, diameter and density were measured among over 1000 normal
Innovations in Hair Styling
One of the latest trends in the hair styling product category is the
importance of multi-functional products. The Hair Styling sub-category,
in fact the whole Hair Products market, is becoming increasingly
segmented with an array of choices and claims which go above and
beyond simply holding a hair style in place. While products which
provide several benefits are appealing on an economical, added value
and convenient level, companies need to ensure that their products
deliver what they claim.
Hair Styling products are offering more than just keeping a style in
place; such as moisturizing, conditioning, adding shine, protecting from
UV rays and the environment. All natural, organic and no
additives/preservative type products are also being seen on the Market
shelves. Long-lasting hold remains the top claim. Its dominance is no
surprise given that most consumers want to maintain their hair styles for
as long as possible throughout the day or night, without having to re-
apply gel, hairspray, wax etc. The use of Hair Styling products is often
reliant on what hair style the individual is sporting, not to mention their
gender and age. Fashion is also influential.1
Typically the polymer or resin provides many of the attributes during the
styling process, as well as the holding and texture characteristics.
However the total formulation determines the functionality of the
styling product such as ease of application, distribution of polymer,
7
C (CONTINUED)
oils, fragrance) tends to occur rather slowly. Similarly, diffusion of
water-soluble ingredients can also take considerable time, despite the
ease of water penetration. Nonetheless, an understanding of penetration,
together with subsequent alterations in properties, provides a means by
which we can begin to tailor certain hair attributes.
Thomas L. Dawson, Ph.D., R. Scott Youngquist,
Brian Fisher and Clarence Robbins, Ph.D.
Procter & Gamble
(without diagnosed hair loss) women ages 18-65, with or without self-
perceived thinning. The role of menopause was also investigated.
It was found that hair density decreased with age after the twenties, with
increasing rate after age 40. Hair diameter increased until the 4th
decade, then dropped. Changes in hair density were similar across the
scalp, while the changes in diameter were accentuated on frontal scalp
versus occipital scalp. Hair shaft diameter was more influenced by
menopause than density.
In conclusion, multiple factors contribute to the drop in satisfaction with
hair quality associated with intrinsic aging. While decreasing number
density is an obvious and important factor, decreasing hair diameter is
also a key contributor. To fully address aging related concerns with hair,
products must address multiple issues.
Colleen M. Rocafort
BASF Corporation
absence from flaking, shine, longevity of hold, restylability, and
removability. The final hair style and styling technique will also
determine the type and level of ingredients used in the styling products
you develop.
During the wet phase, the hair is softened and susceptible to stretching
and abrasion damage. Therefore, protection during the styling process is
another key need that the styling product must offer. Added slip,
detangling, or reduced friction between the hair and the styling devices
during the entire process from very wet to the drying stage. Thermal
damage has been quantified, and subsequently protection from thermal
damage has been attributed to some polymers and conditioning agents.
Styles can be retouched and refreshed throughout the day or daily
between shampoos using thermal styling implements (curling irons/flat
irons). Certain subsections of the hair may be curled repeatedly thus
creating damage at the ends.
This paper will review the global market hair styling trends, the new hair
styling products introduced into the marketplace to address these trends,
and the new innovations in Hair Styling which have been developed to
address these trends.
1. Mintel “Hair Styling Trends” Report, July 2010
 SCIENTIFIC
Friday, December 10, 2010
9:00 a.m. – 11:00 a.m.
GENOMICS
Moderator — Timothy Gao, Ph.D.
KEYNOTE AWARD LECTURE SPONSORED BY
RUGER CHEMICAL CORPORATION
COSMETOGENOMICS: A NEW APPROACH TO
UNDERSTANDING SKIN PHYSIOLOGY
Over the course of the past five years, cosmetogenomics became a
recognized field in cosmetic research. More and more products reach the
marketplace by claiming activities found to be elicited at the level of
gene expression. However, one has to be cautious since gene expression
profiling generates a tremendous amount of data and thus, the
observation that a given gene expression is modulated is not by itself
sufficiently significant for understanding.
Indeed, genes function in an orchestrated manner and encoded proteins
may participate in different pathways, depending on the types of cells
and/or the inducers that initiate their regulation. Gene regulation is
complex and integrates positive and negative feedback loops that lead to
cloud and overshadow the global impact. Protein activity does not
always reflect the modulation seen at the transcriptional level. “Velocity
of change” is another parameter which, when taken into account,
contributes and helps to point out sequential events and important time
regulated activities.
The Application of Proteomics and Genomics in
Cosmetic Formulation Development
OBJECTIVE: To present the power of computational methods in
cosmetic research by providing examples and to discuss the relevance of
cDNA microarray analysis in the development of cosmetic skin care
products. Proteins are the “working” molecules of the cell, they carry
out the program of activities encoded by genes. The human genome
project has resulted in the development of biological assay techniques
that have proven useful for development of cosmetic products. The aim
of this presentation is to discuss what is important for the formulator to
know regarding these assays.
METHODOLOGY: Computational modeling was used to successfully
commercialize a peptide available for use in cosmetic products. In vitro
binding competition assays with isolated integrins and in vitro cDNA
microarrary analysis were conducted on human full thickness
keratinocyte/fibroblast skin models. MetaCore™ software was used to
8
SESSION D
Philippe Benech, Ph.D.
Prediguard
In the presence conference, we will address these issues through three
examples highlighting the crucial requirement for data mining tools
dedicated to identify functional networks.
The examples will cover:
A. Functional networks involving longevity factors in the
regulation of autophagy: a new concept in cosmetic research
B. Discovering an alternative pathway that inhibits melanogenesis
C. Gene expression profiling of age spots: Prediction of individual
outcomes
In conclusion, we will then discuss the use of these tools to decipher
individual changes, thus paving the road for personalized care and
introducing an emerging area billed as cosmetogenetics.
Sohelia Anzali, Ph.D. and Howard Epstein, Ph.D.
Merck KGaA and EMD Chemicals, Inc.
evaluate experimental data that included results of microarray gene
expression, metabolics, proteomics and biological pathways.
RESULTS: Microarray of skin equivalents treated with the peptide
revealed many downregulated genes related to cellular organization,
communication and also mediated by integrins. In vitro binding assays
showed strong binding competition of the peptide. Statistical analysis of
the gene expression profile was conducted.
CONCLUSION: Computational modeling, microarray data analysis
and other related studies provide the ability to predict the activity of a
functional ingredient to provide skin care benefits. Observed effects
give new insight into the potential action of the ability of the peptide, in
this case, to regenerate aging skin by signaling via integrin ligand
binding sites on the cell.
 SCIENTIFIC SESSION
The Epidermal Basal Cellular Layer Environment and the
Proteins of the Chromosomal Passenger Complex are Together
Involved in the Homeostasis and Protection of the Somatic
Stem Cells of the Epidermis
OBJECTIVE: To better understand epidermal self-renewal process
through mitosis supervision by the chromosomal passenger complex
(CPC) and correct extracellular environment required to maintain
homeostasis of the somatic (or adult) stem cells of the epidermis
(SSCEs).
METHODOLOGY: Fractions of primary cells from human epidermis
(enriched in keratinocytes progenitors, transient amplifying and
SSCEs); Evaluation of clonogenic potential; Evaluation of
mitochondrial superoxide in oxidative and UVB stress conditions;
Comet assay to evaluate DNA protection after UVB stress;
immunohistochemistry of CRM1on skin biopsies to investigate its role
and consequences on survivin localization; siRNA-induced knockdown
expression of survivin to evaluate its effect on the clonogenic potential.
Genomic and Proteomic Investigations of a Novel Mechanism
to Stimulate Skin Moisture Regulation
OBJECTIVE: To study genetic and metabolic reactions of human
keratinocytes and 3D skin models to sphingosine-1-phosphate and its
analog myristylphosphomalate and to better understand the complex
interactions of enzymes (filaggrinase, caspase-14, transglutaminase...)
involved in apoptosis, skin homeostasis and barrier maturation.
METHODOLOGY: Culture of human skin keratinocytes; DNA chip
analysis of mRNA extracts from keratinocytes and 3D epidermis in
response to stimulation; fluorescence tagging and immunolabeling
techniques and image analysis to detect filaggrin, caspase-14,
filaggrinase, loricrine; quantification of transglutaminase by qRT-PCR
and enzymology; thin layer chromatography analysis of ceramides and
other skin lipids. Clinical confirmatory studies assaying Caspase-14 in
vivo and glycerin content in the epidermis, TEWL and impedance
measurements.
RESULTS: The DNA array study of the effect of myristyl-
phosphomalate revealed the induction of all genes coding for proteins
involved in keratinocyte differentiation and linked to the protection of
the epidermal permeability barrier, just as is observed for the natural
bioactive lipid sphingosine-1-phosphate. Almost all the genes induced
in the keratinocyte culture were also induced in the reconstructed 3D
epidermis model. A network of genes involving corneocytes maturation
such as Transglutaminase-1 (TGM1) and Involucrin (IVL), as well as
GRLHL3 protein, S100P protein and CASP14 is activated. Claudine-7
(CLDN7) and claudine-4 (CLDN4) genes, occludine and zonula
occludens genes (1OCLN and ZO1), vital proteins for the formation of
tight junctions — are induced in the keratinocyte membrane. Also, lipid
metabolism is promoted as expression of the FATP4, FATP6 and
ELOVL1, LASS3 and UGCG together with FA2H genes are seen to
increase, leading to the path of ceramide synthesis and hydroxylation, as
well as triglyceride hydrolysis which liberates glycerin.
The proteomic studies allowed us to confirm these data, as we observe
an important stimulation of various elements that play a fundamental
role in the synthesis of the NMF, in particular the caspase-14 (+229%;
9
D (CONTINUED)
Isabelle Imbert, Ph.D., F. Labarrade, C. Meyrignac, A. Lebleu,
J.M. Botto, C. Gondran, C. Dal Farra and N. Domloge
ISP-Vincience
RESULTS: Compound IV08.009 positively modulates Survivin
expression in human keratinocytes (+54%) without affecting the
clonogenic potential of SSCEs. Protective effect of IV08.009 on SSCEs
was demonstrated by a reduced mitochondrial superoxide production
after stress and by reduced DNA damages (-44.3%) evaluated by comet
assay after UVB stress. Protective effect of IV08.009 on human skin and
foreskin biopsies was also evidenced by Haematoxylin and Eosin
staining after UVB irradiation. Potential of IV08.009 to restore CRM1
expression in skin was demonstrated by its capacity to limit the effect of
CRM1 inhibitor.
CONCLUSION: These studies show the capacity of a newly developed
compound to regulate the epidermal basal microenvironment and
maintain interaction of CRM1-Survivin, both required in SSCEs
homeostasis, protection and renewal potential.
Karl Lintner, Ph.D., Philippe Mondon, Ph.D.,
Nada Andre and Emmanuel Doridot
Sederma
p<0.01), but also filaggrinase (+304%; p<0.01), synthesized by human
keratinocytes in culture. It results in an increase in the synthesis of
profilaggrin/filaggrin by +259% (p<0.01). These results were confirmed
by a test on explants of human skin in which an increase in the
production of profilaggrin/filaggrin of +33% in the case of normal skin
and by +69% in the case of stripped skin, was clearly shown.
The elements relating to the construction of the cutaneous barrier were
also evaluated: the transglutaminase-1 increased by +101% (p<0.01) in
quantity and by +124% (p<0.01) in activity. The synthesis by human
keratinocytes of proteins constitutive of the cornified cell envelope,
loricrine (+426%; p<0.01) and involucrin (DNA-Array), were
reinforced. Lastly, the barrier effect was consolidated by stimulation of
the synthesis of ceramides (non hydroxylated: +256%, p<0.01 and
hydroxylated: 7.5 times) and cholesterol (+107%, p<0.04) in human
keratinocyte culture.
A clinical study carried out on a mixed panel for 2 months and one week
(regression) confirmed the results observed in vitro. A new test made it
possible to show the increase in caspase-14 and glycerol in the superior
layers of the skin (+34.8% and +327% compared to placebo,
respectively). TEWL data corroborate the improved barrier integrity
expected from the increase in epidermal lipids (cholesterol, ceramides).
CONCLUSION: Thus, a body of data, precisely tying genetic activity
to protein synthesis and -activity in both monolayer keratinocyte culture
and 3D epidermal models, points to the installation of the corneocyte
layer, at the level of the construction of both the cornified cell envelope
and the essential intra-corneocyte lipids. All these data clearly show that
sphingosine-1-phosphate and its analog myristylphosphomalate act in
similar ways on the pathways of keratinocyte maturation which involve
a cascade of genes, enzymes, structural proteins and complex lipids, the
production of which elements is essential in the establishment of the
hydration and the cutaneous barrier.
 SCIENTIFIC
Friday, December 10, 2010
1:30 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.
NEW TECHNOLOGIES AND TRENDS IN SKIN
Moderator — Martha Tate, Ph.D.
Polymers as Stabilizers for W/O Emulsions with Solid
Particles: A Comparison between Crosslinked Homopolymers
and Copolymers of Acrylic Acid
OBJECTIVE: The use of polymers in stabilizing emulsions has been
well documented and is widely used. The addition of solid particles to
emulsions often causes stability problems. The ability of polymers to
stabilize such systems has been very limited. Historically, most success
was obtained by using gums and/or clays. The use of crosslinked
acrylic-acid (AA) based polymers is very limited if non-existent. In the
current paper, we are introducing a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic
acid and vinyl pyrrolidone (AA/VP) that is shown to enhance the
stability and esthetics of such systems.
METHODOLOGY: The ability to incorporate zinc oxide, titanium
dioxide and iron oxides into non-ionic o/w emulsions stabilized with
different polymers was studied. Microscopy was used to determine the
quality of dispersions created and the ability of polymers to lower
interfacial tension. Stabilities of all dispersions were monitored at 45 C
for 3 months.
The Autophagic System: A New Era in Skin Detoxification
OBJECTIVE: To study on an in-vitro model of skin cell culture, a
powerful system of detoxification very few investigated in dermo-
cosmetic research: the Autophagic System.
METHODOLOGY: Cell culture studies with human keratinocytes
under conditions of oxidative stress. Determination of conditions of
treatment with H2O2: study of the mitochondrial dehydrogenase activity,
double staining with JC1 / TOPRO-3 probes and measurement by flow
cytometry (rate of intact cells, cells engaged in late apoptosis or in
necrosis). Immunodetection of carbonylated proteins by oxyblot
immediately after oxidative stress with or not a step of recovery.
Quantification by western blotting and visualization by fluorescence
immunostaining of the autophagic marker LC3. Visualization of
lysosomes by fluorescence microscopy (LysoTracker® probes). Study of
LC3 on primary culture of human keratinocytes from young and aged
donors.
RESULTS: We tested different concentrations of H2O2 (125µM,
250µM and 1000µM) and we determined the best conditions to study
the autophagic system which takes place to eliminate carbonylated
proteins, lipoperoxides and damaged organelles. We showed for the first
time in dermo-cosmetic research that some skin cells have the capacity
to induce the autophagic system (significant increase of the LC-3
marker) to fight against ROS and their consequences on the rate of
carbonylated proteins (which significantly increases after H2O2
treatments). We showed also that the number of lysosomal vacuoles
10
SESSION E
Hani Fares, Ph.D., Donald Prettypaul,
Santosh Yadav, Ph.D. and Nevine Issa
International Specialty Products
RESULTS: Both AA-based polymers and AA/VP copolymer were able
to reduce the interfacial tension on o/w dispersions as demonstrated by
the reduction in particle size. The polymers appeared to be more
effective at reducing interfacial tension than non ionic emulsifiers when
used at the same concentration. AA/VP copolymer was found to be
superior to AA-based polymers in dispersing zinc oxide, titanium
dioxide and iron oxides in nonionic o/w emulsions. Stabilities of
emulsions, homogeneity of the dispersions and particle size distribution
were all indicators favoring the AA/VP coplymer.
CONCLUSION: The data generated in this paper seems to indicate that
AA/VP are superior to AA-based polymers in stabilizing emulsions with
relatively high level of solid particles. The dispersions created were
uniform, monodisperse and stable. This will enable formulators to create
texture that are unique in feel.
David Boudier, Elodie Aymard, Vincent Barruche, Sandrine Grofflo,
Sylvie Bordes, Brigitte Closs, Mireille Verdier and
Marie-Helene Ratinaud
SILAB and University of Limoges, France
increases after H2O2 treatments. We underlined that the rate of LC-3
synthesis is decreased in aged keratinocytes in comparison to young
keratinocytes.
CONCLUSION: There are two major systems in eukaryotic cells that
degrade cellular components: the proteasome and the autophagy. At a
basal level, proteasome degrades short-lived soluble proteins, while
autophagy is a dynamic process essentially eliminating long-lived
proteins (the majority of cellular proteins) and altered organelles such as
mitochondria, which are source of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) and
DNA mutations.
In the case of more severe stress, altered intracellular proteins overload
then deplete the degradation capacity of proteasome and thus
accumulate. These modified or aggregated proteins, become not only
resistant to degradation by the proteasomal pathway, but also inhibit the
process. As the capacities of the proteasome are exceeded, autophagy
takes over to compensate for proteasome inadequacies.
By investigating the Autophagic System in skin cells, the back-up
system for the proteasome, we open a new era in cutaneous cells
detoxification. Consequently, the autophagic system may be used as a
valid target for increasing skin cellular resistance to oxidative stress and
it could serve as a basis for further development in innovative active
ingredients for the cosmetic industry.
 SCIENTIFIC SESSION
The Corneovacumeter: A New Device for Evaluation of
Biomechanical Properties of the Skin
OBJECTIVE: The understanding and the evaluation of the
biomechanical properties of the skin with aging and/or photoaging is
one of the main targets of cosmetic and dermatological research.
Many different non invasive devices using different measuring
approaches such as stretching, torsion, indentation or suction have been
developed. The measurement of skin deformation after suction and
torsion are the most widely used techniques.
The objective of the study was to demonstrate the suitability and validity
of the newly developed device, Corneovacumeter, based on the principle
of multiple point measurements for evaluation of skin biomechanical
properties and to compare its performance to a standard non invasive
method of suction.
METHODOLOGY: The skin deformation was measured
simultaneously on 12 apertures for the Corneovacumeter. A Cutometer®
was used as the standard method (time elevation mode).
The biomechanical properties were measured on a panel of 113 female
volunteers aged between 18 and 73 years. The measurements were
carried out on the internal sites of the forearms and on the face, on
neighboring areas. The classical skin biomechanical parameters, such as
firmness, elasticity, extensibility and recovery parameters, were
calculated.
A statistical analysis of obtained results in function of age was
performed for each tested device and a correlation between the two
measuring methods for the different calculated parameters was
established.
Powered Devices for Facial Cleansing: Should They Occupy
Space in the Cosmetic Device Toolbox?
With the emergence of facial cleansing devices into the market, a new
spotlight has been put on the skin benefits and consumer need for them.
To date there have been few reports detailing the technical advantages
and consumer acceptance of powered cleansing compared to
conventional manual skin cleansing. Using objective clinical methods,
we compared commercially available powered cleansing devices to
conventional manual skin cleansing for cleansing effectiveness,
gentleness, and consumer acceptance. Clinical endpoints included


11
E (CONTINUED)
Melanie Sabadotto, Olga Freis, Gilles Perie and Andreas Rathjens
Cognis France, A Division of Laboratoires Serobiologiques
RESULTS: Both devices confirmed a significant evolution of the skin
biomechanical properties with aging: loss of skin firmness and elasticity,
increase in the residual deformation.
The measurement variability was lower for Corneovacumeter
comparatively to Cutometer® which is due to the principle of
measurement, where the mean of multi aperture skin deformation is
measured.
As to the measurement site, a better correlation between biomechanical
parameters and age was obtained on the forearms than on the face.
A good correlation between Corneovacumeter and Cutometer® was
found on the forearms. This correlation was of lower degree for the
measurements carried out on the face.
CONCLUSION: The newly developed device is suitable for the
evaluation of biomechanical properties of the skin. The good
repeatability, a low variability of the obtained results and a good
responsiveness to quantify the modification of skin properties with
aging, make the Corneovacumeter an additional tool for cosmetic
research.
Brian Czetty and Greg Hillebrand, Ph.D.
Procter & Gamble
make-up removal, level of exfoliation, decrease in surface microbes,
change in pore size and pore porphyrin reduction, change in skin
permeability to topically applied agents and moisturizer effectiveness.
In addition to these technical measures, our studies captured subjective
measures of consumer acceptance with using a powered cleansing
device on a daily basis. The results help provide a raison d’etre for
powered cleansing as a valuable tool in the cosmetic device toolbox.
 CONTINUING EDUCATION PROGRAMS*

INTERNATIONAL REGULATORY
Instructed by David Steinberg
Wednesday, December 8, 2010 * 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
COURSE OUTLINE

This course will focus on understanding the regulations of cosmetics in the European Union, cosmetics and quasi-
drugs in Japan and all of the new Canadian regulations. Amongst the topics under Europe will be an overview of
the Cosmetic Directive, how the Directive is changed, the 7th Amendment and how this will affect the US
companies, what is contained in the Product Information Package (Dossier); correct labeling of product; and
finally a review of REACH and its impact on both raw material suppliers and cosmetic manufacturers. The topics
covered about Japan include the definitions of cosmetics and quasi-drugs and how they are regulated, and updates
on the positive list of preservatives, colors and UV filters, the restricted list and the prohibited.

1. THE EUROPEAN UNION REGULATIONS 2. JAPANESE REGULATIONS

a. The Cosmetic Directive a. New definition of a cosmetic and the
i. Articles differences between this and a Quasi-drug
ii. How are they Changed b. The Positive Lists
iii. Annexes i. Colors
b. Labeling and Package Sizes ii. UV Filters-new approvals
i. The EU address and its importance iii. Preservatives-new approvals
c. The product information package and what the c. The Negative List-new additions
public is allowed to see d. The Restricted List
d. The 7th Amendment and its problems
e. Labeling
e. The Latest ATP’s
f. REACH 3 CANADIAN REGULATIONS
a. Cosmetic labeling
b. Natural Health Products and Drugs
c. CEPA and its effect on cosmetics and raw
material

SPECIAL DISCOUNT — Individuals that register for a Continuing Education Course at the New York Hilton as well as
register for the Annual Scientific Meeting (Full Registrations Only) may deduct $25 off the Meeting Registration.
* The registration fee includes Continental Breakfast and Lunch on day of the Course.

12
 CONTINUING EDUCATION PROGRAMS*

PERFORMANCE INGREDIENTS FOR SKIN

Instructed by Rebecca James Gadberry
Wednesday, December 8, 2010 * 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
COURSE OUTLINE
Starting with a brief review of skin anatomy and physiology, this course is a high level overview of performance
ingredients from the skin’s point of view. Each section of the skin — from skin cells to dermal tissue — is
examined with popular ingredients designed to target specific skin sectors highlighted during the presentation.
Topics are developed to offer a foundation from which all skin care professionals — regardless of scientific
background — can understand current and future advances in skin care ingredient technologies. Cosmetic
chemists, product developers, marketers, raw material suppliers, trainers and others should find the material
highly applicable and appropriate to their interests.

1. SKIN ANATOMY & PHYSIOLOGY 4. THE EPIDERMIS

a. Epidermis a. Supporting Skin’s Cellular Immunity
b. Dermis b. Trends in Skin Brightening
c. Major Skin Cells i. Upstream Inhibition
ii. Downstream Inhibition
2. CELL TARGETED TECHNOLOGIES
a. Cell Membrane 5. EPIDERMAL/DERMAL JUNCTION
b. Mitochondria, Oxygen & Cell Energizing a. Strengthening the EDJ
c. Cellular Antioxidants i. Collagens
d. Lipofuscin & Cell Detoxification ii. Integrins
e. DNA Protection & Repair iii. Laminins
f. Telomeres
g. Heat Shock Proteins 6. THE DERMIS
h. Aquaporins a. Role of Inflammation in Dermal Aging
i. Sirtuins i. Cosmetic “Anti-Inflammatories”
j. Stem Cells b. Matrix Up-Regulation
i. Collagens
3. THE STRATUM CORNEUM ii. Elastin
a. Supporting the First Line of Defense iii. Glycosaminoglycans
i. Defensins & Cathelicidins c. MatrixMetalloProteinases
ii. Probiotics i. MMP Inhibitors
b. Barrier Damage & Repair d. Glycation
i. Rebuilding the Barrier i. Reactive Carbonyl Species
ii. Antioxidant Defense Mechanisms ii. Glycation Inhibitors
c. Humectants & Hydration e. Medical Mimics: Line Filler & Botox® Rivals
d. Comedogenicity & Comedogenic Ingredients
e. New Technologies in Pore Size Reduction

SPECIAL DISCOUNT — Individuals that register for a Continuing Education Course at the New York Hilton as well as
register for the Annual Scientific Meeting (Full Registrations Only) may deduct $25 off the Meeting Registration.
* The registration fee includes Continental Breakfast and Lunch on day of the Course.

13
 REGISTRATION FORM
2010 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING #
DECEMBER 9-10 * THE NEW YORK HILTON & TOWERS HOTEL * NEW YORK CITY
Type or print your name and company as you wish it to appear on your badge, complete and mail with check or credit card information to:
SCC, 120 Wall Street, Suite 2400, New York, NY 10005-4088, (212) 668-1500, Fax: (212) 668-1504
Participants may register for the meeting online. For more information, please visit the SCC Website, www.scconline.org.

NAME (full and one day registrations) ____________________________________________________________________________

(First Name) (Last Name)
COMPANY __________________________________________________________________________________________________

Phone ( ) __________________________________ E-mail ________________________________________________________

NAMES (split registrations):

THURSDAY ____________________________________ Phone ( )__________________ E-mail ______________________

FRIDAY ________________________________________ Phone ( )__________________ E-mail ______________________

COMPANY __________________________________________________________________________________________________

MAILING ADDRESS ________________________________________________________________________________________

REGISTRATION FEE REGISTRATION FEE
On/Before NOVEMBER 19 After NOVEMBER 19*
FULL REGISTRATION - Member $600.00 $650.00 $ ____________
FULL REGISTRATION - Non-Member $720.00 $770.00 $ ____________
THURSDAY ONLY REGISTRATION - Member $500.00 $550.00 $ ____________
THURSDAY ONLY REGISTRATION - Non-Member $620.00 $670.00 $ ____________
FRIDAY ONLY REGISTRATION - Member $400.00 $450.00 $ ____________
FRIDAY ONLY REGISTRATION - Non-Member $520.00 $570.00 $ ____________

FULL REGISTRATION - Student $200.00 $200.00 $ ____________

SPLIT REGISTRATION - Member $750.00 $800.00 $ ____________
SPLIT REGISTRATION - Non-Member $850.00 $900.00 $ ____________
*Onsite Registration Fees will be $750 for Members and $850 for Non-Members.

CONTINUING EDUCATION PROGRAMS

Wednesday, December 8, 2010* 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.* Courses are Limited

International Regulatory: Member: $300.00** $ ____________

Non-Member: $400.00** $ ____________

Performance Ingredients: Member: $300.00** $ ____________

Non-Member: $400.00** $ ____________

** If you register for the full Meeting and a Continuing Education Course, you may deduct $25 from the Meeting Registration Fee above.
This discount does not apply to one day or split registrations.

PAYMENT INFORMATION TOTAL ENCLOSED: $ ____________

Circle Choice: Check (made payable to SCC) Visa MasterCard American Express

Card No. Exp. Date

Signature
REGISTRATION FEE IS TRANSFERABLE TO ANOTHER REGISTRANT BUT NOT REFUNDABLE AFTER NOVEMBER 19, 2010.

SCC USE: Received_________ Amount_________ Check #________ Charge date __________

14
 HOTEL RESERVATION FORM

NEW YORK HILTON & TOWERS HOTEL

1335 AVENUE OF THE AMERICAS, NY, NY 10019
ROOM BLOCK AVAILABLE FROM DECEMBER 7-10, 2010
# __________

HOTEL RESERVATIONS ARE MADE ON A FIRST-COME FIRST-SERVE BASIS THROUGH THE NATIONAL
OFFICE. THE NATIONAL OFFICE AND THE NEW YORK HILTON CANNOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE
AVAILABILITY OF ROOMS AFTER NOVEMBER 17, 2010 OR AFTER OUR ROOM BLOCK IS FILLED
WHICHEVER COMES FIRST.

Confirmations will be sent via email (as indicated on this form) from the New York Hilton within one week after your
registration and reservation forms are received. Please be sure to confirm all information on your reservation is correct upon
receipt of the email.

Name ____________________________________ Company______________________________________________

Phone ( ) ______________________________ Email ________________________________________________

Please reserve a room for me at the New York Hilton*:

______ Single Room (King Bed) $376.00 per night

______ Double Room (2 Double Beds) $376.00 per night

* Your room choice will be assigned unless the hotel no longer has this room type available.

I am checking in on __________________________________, December ______, and

Day of the week (ie. Thursday)

checking out on __________________________________, December ______ for a total of _____ room nights.
Day of the week (ie. Friday)

Hilton Honors Membership # ________________________

In order to secure a room reservation and guarantee late arrival, a credit card is necessary.
You may cancel your reservation within 48 hours of your arrival date to avoid any penalties.

Circle Choice:

Visa MasterCard American Express Carte Blanche Diners Club Discover

Card No. __________________________________ Exp. Date ________ Signature _________________________

SCC USE: Received ______________ Input to NY Hilton __________________ Confirmation # ________________

15
 AWARDS, ETC.

DR. YASH KAMATH TO RECEIVE THE 2010 MEDAL AWARD

The Board of Directors is pleased to announce that the 2010 Maison deNavarre Medal Award, the
Society’s highest honor, will be presented to Dr. Yash Kamath. The award presentation will be made
at the Luncheon on Thursday, December 9th in conjunction with the Annual Scientific Meeting. Dr.
Kamath is being recognized for his significant contribution to the Cosmetics Industry through his
research and actively publishing on hair science for more than 30 years.

DR. ROBERT SAUTE TO RECEIVE THE ROBERT KRAMER

LIFETIME SERVICE AWARD
The Board of Directors is pleased to announce that the Robert A. Kramer Lifetime Service Award will
be presented this year to Dr. Robert Saute. Dr. Saute will be the 8th recipient of this prestigious award
which has not been presented since 2006. The award presentation will be made at the Luncheon on
Friday, December 10th in conjunction with the Annual Scientific Meeting. Dr. Saute is being
recognized for his extraordinary service over the course of his membership which spans 57 years!

DR. MINDY S. GOLDSTEIN TO RECEIVE

THE 2010 MERIT AWARD
The Board of Directors is pleased to announce that the 2010 SCC Merit Award will be presented to
Dr. Mindy S. Goldstein. The award presentation will be made at the Luncheon on Friday, December
10th in conjunction with the Annual Scientific Meeting. Dr. Goldstein is being recognized for her
significant contributions, achievement and service to the Society including her term as the Society’s
56th President in 2002.

SUPPLIER COCKTAIL RECEPTION

The Suppliers Cocktail Reception will take place in the Grand Ballroom of the New York Hilton
on Thursday evening from 5:00 to 7:00 p.m. with cocktails and a large variety of food being served
buffet style. The two-hour format was started last year and was well received by attendees. Hence
it will continue this year. This change allows individuals a chance to go out on the town without
missing this important function of the Annual Meeting. The reception starts immediately following
the close of the Technology Showcase on Thursday afternoon allowing attendees to go straight to
the reception prior to any other plans they may make for the evening.

NEW CHANGES FOR TECHNOLOGY SHOWCASE

Based on continued feedback received, the Society will offer some time changes for the 2010
Technology Showcase. The Showcase will run on Thursday from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. On Friday,
the Showcase will run from 9:00 am to 3:00 p.m. Special time for attendees to visit the posters will be
as follows: On Thursday morning, Session A will conclude at 11:00 a.m. to provide one full hour for
viewing the posters. Sessions B and C will end around 4:00 p.m. Thursday afternoon providing another
hour prior to the cocktail reception for the posters.

EMERITUS MEMBERS “MEET AND GREET”

All Emeritus Members are invited to a “Meet & Greet” on Thursday afternoon from 4:00 to 5:00 p.m.
(prior to the Cocktail Reception) in the Clinton Suite on the 2nd floor at the New York Hilton. Please
take this opportunity to come and see your fellow Emeritus Members to catch up or just say Hi!

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