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Boubaker Jaouachi1, 2,

F. Khedher1
Evaluation of Sewed Thread Consumption
of Jean Trousers Using Neural Network
and Regression Methods
1Textile Engineering Laboratory, Abstract
2National Engineering School of Monastir,
This paper deals with the prediction of the sewing thread consumption of jean trousers us-
ing the neural network technique. The neural network results and analysis are discussed
University of Monastir, and investigated. Indeed the findings show that neural network consumption values give
Ibn ElJazzar Street, Monastir 5019- Tunisia better fitting of experimental results than the ones obtained using regression technique.
E-mail: boubaker.jaouachi@enim.rnu.tn/
boubaker.jaouachi@gmail.com However, compared to the experimental consumption results, theoretical ones of the sewn
jean pants seem widely predictable in the desired field of interest. Among the all parameters
studied, statistical analysis results also indicate that five inputs can be considered as influ-
ential ones. When classifying these five influential inputs, only three parameters are con-
sidered most significant. In fact the thread consumed to sew jean trouser samples remains
influenced especially by the thread properties and needle fineness as well. Compared with
the regression model, the neural network model gives a more accurate prediction and to a
great extent provides the amount of sewing thread.

Key words: consumption, prediction, sewing, thread, neural network, regression.

mathematical methods (fuzzy, math- regulation points were varied: the thread
n Introduction ematical, geometrical, statistical, subjec- components expressed by the number of
tive, etc.) in defining, prediction and in twisted thread ends (Tye), the needle size
With actual increases in sewing speeds
modelling both complex and non-linear (Ns), fabric thickness (Fth), the mass or
and with the advent of both synthetic fab-
problems, the neural network method of- weight of fabric (Wf), the stitch length
rics and threads, the problem of exces-
fers large levels of flexibility and remains (SL), and sewing machine type (Smt).
sive thread consumption in sewing op-
an excellent method for predictors [2, Each level of the input parameters (1 and
erations has become more critical and of
3, 13 - 15, 26 - 28, 32]. The purpose of 2) for adjustment represents a regulation
greater interest. A reasonable estimation
this study is to determine accurately the point, with 1 corresponding to the mini-
of potential thread sewn for the garment
amount of sewing thread as a function mum, and 2 referring to the maximum, as
industry should be determined objective-
of some influential inputs. Moreover in shown in Table 1.
ly not only to predict suitable thread con-
this work, the amount needed by the type
sumed and to reduce the stocks unused,
of garment was deduced by selecting the These input parameters are considered
but it also allows us to use a better-quali-
ty of sewing thread for the same cost and most significant parameters using statisti- because of their probable contribution to
to avoid stock rupture. However, in the cal analysis, therefore it is focused on the the thread consumption value of the jean
general literature survey, the thread con- evaluation and prediction of the thread trousers. They are investigated objective-
sumption problem has not been studied consumption of jean trousers using neu- ly according to the factorial experimental
sufficiently for two important reasons: ral network modelling. The efficiency of design. Factorial designs allow for simul-
first because of the complexity of sewn our model was then analysed and inves- taneous study of the effects that several
thread evaluation, and second the high tigated. factors may have on a process. When
input parameters. Some works relating to performing an experiment, varying the
thread consumption evaluation are tack- levels of the factors simultaneously rath-
n Materials and methods
led and conducted in the literature survey. er than one at a time is efficient in terms
Thread consumption evaluation using Data collection and analysis of time and cost, and also allows for the
such techniques was measured as a func- Six different input parameters were cho- study of interactions between the factors.
tion of some input parameters such as the sen and used in the experiment to sew Interactions are the driving force in many
stitch length, thread tension and its com- jean trouser specimens in order to evalu- processes. Without the use of factorial
pressive modulus [1, 4 - 12, 15, 17 - 22, ate their experimental thread consump- experiments, important interactions may
25, 34 and 35]. However, the sewing tion values. Table 1 shows the input pa- remain undetected. Hence, in a full facto-
thread consumption of a garment needs rameters and their corresponding levels. rial experiment, responses are measured
to be provided and predicted accurately. To regulate and adjust the sewing condi- at all combinations of the experimental
Several factors determine the extent of tions, overall input parameters with two factor levels. The combinations of the
thread consumption in any sewn gar-
ment, such as the stitch length, stitch Table 1. Input parameters and their corresponding levels.
density, seam type and material thickness
[16, 33]. Until now, there has been no an- Input Twisted thread Needle size Sewing machine
Fabric Stitch Weight of
thickness length fabric
alytical model using the neural network level ends, Tye Ns, Nm type, Smt
Fth, mm SL, mm Wf, g/m2
technique to evaluate the amount of sewn Without automatic
1 2 90 0.60 2.25 268
thread required to make up jean trouser thread trimmer
garments and to predict accurately the 2 3 120
Within automatic
0.92 2.85 417
thread trimmer
consumed thread value. Compared with

Jaouachi B, Khedher F. Evaluation of Sewed Thread Consumption of Jean Trousers Using Neural Network and Regression Methods. 91
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2015; 23, 3(111): 91-96.
which are chosen to analyse the overall
specimens. The output predicted using
the neural network (STCNN) and regres-
sion models (STCact) is the thread length
sewn, which represents the thread con-
sumed to sew classic Jean trousers with
5 pockets. These values refer to the sewn
thread lengths predicted and the actual
Lockstitch
measures of unstitch thread length val-
ues founded experimentally. As shown in
Table 1, two types of jean fabrics (heavy
and light) were used in the study within
two different compositions: 100% Cot-
ton and 98% Cotton + 2% Elastane. The
Safety-stitch majority of assemblies made on the jean
pants were sewn with different types of
stitches, for example: flat felled seam
(2 × 401), safety stitch machine (ISO-
516), overlockstitch machine (401)
and lockstitch machine (301). In spite
of its cross section, which is different,
the appearance of this stitch, 401-401,
as shown in Figure 1, can, however,
be made using a JUKI DDL-8700 ma-
chine, to obtain a similar stitch. That is
why we used this kind of sewing ma-
Lockstitch Felled seam
chine in our case. We will study their
effect on thread consumption. All adjust-
ment conditions are regulated to obtain
Figure 1. Different stitch types used to sew the jean trousers. good quality of assembly. Jean fabrics
were seamed on JUKI DDL-8700 and
Table 2. Sewing thread consumption of trousers predicted and evaluated by the ANN model MO-3316 sewing machines with two
developed. ♦STCact - Represents the actual length of thread consumed during sewing of jean different sewing needle sizes: 111 and
trouser samples, measured experimentally by unstitching. ♣ STCNN - Represents the theo- 83 dtex. All machine settings were the
retical consumption of sewing thread predicted using the ANN model developed.
same for all trouser samples. Denim fab-
Inputs tested within their levels Sewing thread consumption, m ric layers were seamed with stitch den-
Test Experimental ♦ Theoretical ♣ sities of 4.5 and 3.5 stitches/cm, which
Smt SL Tye Ns Fth Wf
STCact values STCNN values were not identical to those selected by
1
1
2.25 120 0.60 268 300 290.0 Webster et al. [34, 35].
2 0.92 417 420 416.3
2.85 3
3 0.60 268 420 413.1 Therefore this study is essentially carried
2 90
4 2.25 0.92 417 375 373.6
out according to these stitches. Overall
5 1 2.85 268 360 372.1
0.60 seam operations are realised within the
6 2 120 417 190 165.8
2.25 2 same type of mean sewing thread count,
7 1 345 364.2
0.92 268 16.6 tex, to obtain jean trousers with
8 2 2.85 90 348 355.1
5 pockets, as shown in Figure 1. In the
9 1 2.25 0.60 380 390.6
3 same Figure, all stitch kinds in some spe-
10 0.92 417 250 258.3
11
120
200 182.6
cific and basic zones are shown. In the
12 2
2.85
90
0.60
268 350 346.3
area of the belt, belt loops and pockets,
13 2 120 417 210 191.4
the stitches used to sew them are men-
14 2.25
0.92
268 330 338.3 tioned by lockstitch type 301 and over-
15 1 2.85 0.60 417 345 340.6 lockstitch type 401. Indeed this use of
16 3 90 0.92 405 405.2 many more different types of stitch in
268 Figure 1 than was explained previously
17 2.25 310 329.5
2 2 0.60
18 417 300 297.9 is required to prevent redundant informa-
19 2.85 3 320 289.8 tion, which makes Figure 1 and the ex-
120 0.92 268
20 1 2.25 2 230 232.0 planation in the text complementary and
not doubtful.
factor levels represent the conditions at vation. The entire set of runs is the “de- Sewing thread consumption values
which responses will be measured. Each sign.” The number of tested samples giv- (STC) are determined by unstitching the
experimental condition is a called a “run” en by the full experimental design, using seam and measured according to French
and the response measurement an obser- Minitab 14 software, is 64 combinations Standard NF G07 101. Thus after every

92 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2015, Vol. 23, 3(111)


sewing operation of the garment, the ex- n Results and discussion Network inputs Hidden layer
perimental seam length was measured
(see Table 2) and the thread requirement Statistical and regression analysis a
Network output
consumption of the garment obtained by In order to assess the performance of the
adding the thread consumption of each statistical (based on regression equations) b S

operation STCact. Besides this, to com- and artificial neural-network models for
pare theoretical and experimental results, predicting thread consumption, we in- c

twenty jean trouser specimens were sewn vestigated the experimental consumption
and unstitched in order to measure thread values under applied factorial design. In Figure 2. Example of Neural Network
consumption at the levels prescribed by fact, by classifying the contribution of structure.
the factorial design. each input parameter to the mean thread
consumption, we analysed the factorial [15], for the highest needle size the sew-
Artificial Neural Network parameters design using Minitab software analysis. ing thread can cause a surplus of length-
Figure 2 shows an example of a neural Figure 3 shows the overall means at each ening and a large loop of thread, which
network structure which is composed of level of input, represented using main ef- we can avoid. Thus, according to Seyam
three different inputs (a, b, and c) and fect plots. The main effect plots can be and El Sheikh’s study [31], an appro-
one predictable output. To build a neural drawn for either the raw response data, priate thread for the correct needle size
network model, some parameters should the means of the output parameter for should be selected carefully. However,
be considered. Hence the size of the hid- each input level,  fitted values after ana- to reduce the mean value of the thread
den layers, the number of neurons in each lysing the design and predicted values for consumed, it is suitable to use sewing
hidden layer and the neurons in the out- each input level. These plots are used to thread composed of two twisted threads.
put layer play a vital role during model- compare the magnitudes of all different Furthermore increasing the number of
main effects studied. A main effect oc- twisted threads to sew jean trousers en-
ling steps.
curs when the mean response changes courages a high consumption value. An
For example, the model shown in Fig- across the input levels. average increase value of 21.82% was
ure 2 is built using one hidden layer of saved when the thread was composed
Moreover, Figure 3 also shows the vari- of three twisted threads instead of two
three neurons and to test the training
ation of main input parameter effects on only. Thus in order to minimise sewing
of network inputs. Moreover a suitable
the mean sewing thread consumption thread consumption, a low twisted thread
transfer function, adjusted weights and
values. According to the same figure, it number seems more recommended. By
thresholds should be selected to start
is clearly noted that the needle size and classification of the contributions of in-
prediction. In fact, these neural network
type of thread used to sew jean trousers puts, we can also remark that the weight
parameters are automatically modified
are the most influential parameters. Due of fabric is significant. Indeed the weight
during training as a function of the best
to the high variation presented and saved fabric parameter participates in the vari-
accuracy of the model. The performance when the input value changes from one ation in consumption because it presents
results of the network express the accu- level to another, the mean thread con- a non negligible effect when the level is
racy of the model, measured after train- sumed changes enormously too. Hence modified from the lowest to the highest.
ing and evaluated by the error values we can remark also that the decrease in Regarding the increase in the weight of
between the actual and predicted output. the size of needle (83 dtex instead of fabric, the consumption value decreases
Some works were conducted using the 111 dtex) caused an average decrease by an average of 10.18%. Compared to
neural networks method [3, 13, 16]. To equal to 33.64% of the mean consump- Ns, Tye and Wf, the other input parameters
test our network model, we divided each tion value. According to earlier work can be considered as less significant due
under-design of experiments formed
of 64 tests into two samples: A training
sample that contains 44 random tests Smt SL Tve
and a validation sample with the rest as 360
remaining tests. In fact, our neural net-
330
work is characterised by 300 iterations,
for 6 inputs and one output. To build our 300
Mean STC actual value, m

neural model we chose one hidden layer 270


within 4 neurons and transfer function 240
purelin was selected. Hence the optimal 1 2 2.25 2.85 2 3
value is obtained with four hidden neu- NS Fth Wf
rons. The training is done and after this 360
step the untrained data set is tested. We 330
use the back propagation method to train 300
the neural network and adjust weights
270
and thresholds in the network. The train-
ing data set used in this paper consists of 240
90 120 0.60 0.92 268 417
twenty sewn jean trouser samples. Dur-
ing the training step, all input parameters
are fed to the network. Figure 3. Main inputs effect variation for the mean value of STC given by Minitab software.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2015, Vol. 23, 3(111) 93


Table 3. Input parameters as presented by Minitab Software analysis: ▪F-test - Evaluates Equation 2 presents a fitted model within
whether the statistic observed exceeds a critical value from the distribution. If the F-statis- the output predicted, [29, 30].
tic observed exceeds the critical value, the null hypothesis should be rejected; ●T - Indicates
that the parameter might be judged as significant when its p value is smaller than 0.05; Y = b0 + b1x1 + b2x2 + ... + bkxk + Err (1)
○P - when the p-value of the input is less than a value of 0.05, thus this input will be kept
and classified as significant. In contrast (p-value more than 0.05), the input is considered Ŷ = b0 + b1x1 + b2x2 + ... + bkxk (2)
as non significant. ♣SE Coef. - Standard error coefficient checks the store of standard er-
rors of the coefficients estimated down a column in the order that they appear in the model.
where, Y and Ŷ - represent the output
Predictors Coefficient ♣SE Coef. ●T ▪F ○P parameter value and predicted or fitted
Constant 581.28 50.94 11.41 - 0.000 output, respectively, x - represents the
Smt -21.056 7.279 -2.89 8.37 0.005 predictors, bk - this parameter estimates
SL 28.69 12.10 2.37 5.62 0.021 the population regression coefficients,
Tye 65.749 7.261 9.06 82.00 0.000 Err - error term with normal distribution.
Ns -4.1843 0.2420 -17.29 298.88 0.000 In general, it is equal to 0.
Fht 31.41 22.69 1.38 1.92 0.172
Wf -0.18499 0.04873 -3.80 14.41 0.000 Referring to findings given by Minitab
software, the linear regression model is
to their slight contributions to the mean input parameter, such as the linear re- established as shown in Equation 3. For
consumption of jean trousers. However, gression method and analysis of variance the factorial experimental design stud-
among the remaining inputs, fabric thick- technique. This step allows us to keep the ied, the coefficient of determination R2
ness Fth, seems non significant because most significant inputs only referring to is equal to 0.877, which can explain that
the analysis of variance test. Hence re- the regression model is acceptable, but it
its variation cannot affect the mean
garding the analysis of variance, which remains a function of the significance of
consumption value considerably. After
each input parameter, as shown in Equa-
removing the insignificant input param- represents the essential step to validate
tion 3.
eter (Fth), the analysis is performed once the accuracy of the model in the regres-
STC = 581 - 21.1 × Smt + 28.7 SL +
again to obtain a more significant regres- sion modelling method, overall input pa-
+ 65.7 Tye - 4.18 × Ns + (3)
sion equation, presented in the text as rameters predicted using factorial design
+ 31.4 Fth - 0.185 Wf in m
Equation 4. However, this part will be analysis were investigated and given as
investigated deeply in the next works to shown in Table 3. Analysis of variance is
Predicted R2 indicates how well the mod-
optimise and analyse the consumption a statistical test which helps the assess-
el predicts responses for new observa-
value of the sewing thread accurately. ment of the input significance and its ef-
tions, whereas R2 indicates if the model
In fact, to verify the optimised regres- fects on the output studied. Based on a
fits the data tested or not. Predicted R2
sion equation and to improve our results comparison of actual variance values of
prevents over fitting the model, which is,
more, other samples will be tested to vali- input parameters, those in the case of the
fitting the model too closely to the data in
date the findings and generalise the mod- same inputs are non significant [23, 24]. the current database set. As a result, it is
els obtained in a large design of interest. In fact, regarding the p-value test, each not useful for predicting new data. In ad-
That is why further works will help in- input was analysed comparing to 5%. dition, the adjusted R2 value can be use-
dustrialists to predict and determine their ful to validate models proposed. In fact,
consumed thread values as a function of Nevertheless when the p-value of the in- its value is equal to 0.845, which means
garments. But the others two inputs, such put is less than a value of 0.05, this input it is high and can prove the effectiveness
as SL and Smt, seem influential, and as a will be kept and classified as significant of the model of regression proposed [29,
result should be preserved and improved [29, 30]. However, when the p-value is 30]. By comparison of predicted R2 and
accurately. more than 0.05, the corresponding input adjusted R2 values, the superiority of
should be removed because it is not sig- the first parameter may be concluded.
Therefore to improve the analysis find- nificant. In this study, our equation of re- Therefore the superiority of predicted R2
ings, it should be necessary to investigate gression contains all factors which seem is based on its value, which is calculated
the pertinence and significance of each significant with a risk of 5%, except for within observations that are not included
the fabric composition parameter. Indeed in the model calculation. Predicted R2
when the non significance of this param- is also ranged between 0 and 1. Indeed
Network inputs eter is registered, we can understand this larger values of the predicted R2 value
Smt Hidden layer because it presents a p-value equal to suggest accurate models of greater pre-
17.2%, which is more far than 5%. Ac- dictive ability. As a result, after analysing
SL
Network output
cording to p-value probability, the fabric all the input parameters’ significances,
composition factor seems not sufficiently the optimised regression equation can be
Tye STC
significant, with a risk of 5%, to be mis- rewritten in the following way:
Ns taken. Our regression analysis results
STC = 581 - 21.1 × Smt + 28.7 SL +
show that the findings obtained, accord-
+ 65.7 Tye - 4.18 × Ns + (4)
Fth ing to the factorial experimental design,
+ 31.4 Fth - 0.185 Wf
are acceptable. Generally for a model
Wf
with both multiple predictors and output Artificial neural network
studied (Y), the regression equation form modelling method
Figure 4. Artificial neural network model can be presented as shown in Equation To build our neural network model,
used. 1. Due to error, which usually means 0, shown in Figure 4, the number of hidden

94 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2015, Vol. 23, 3(111)


layers, the number of neurons in the hid-
y = 1.074x - 25.37
den layer, the learning rate and the num- R2 = 0.973

STC neural network value, m


ber of cycles during the training were 400
fixed. The thread components expressed
300
by number of twisted thread ends, (Tye),
the needle size (Ns), fabric thickness 200
(Fth), the mass or weight of fabric (Wf), STC neural network

the stitch length, (SL), and the sewing 100 Linear regression

machine type, (Smt) are the input param-


0
eters of the neural network model struc-
90 200 250 300 350 400 450
ture. The consumption of thread to sew
jean trouser samples is the output of the STC actual value, m

networks, as shown in Figure 4.


Figure 5. Post-training analysis of neural network results.
The data were all scaled and the hyper-
bolic tangent sigmoid function (tan sig) veloped seems accurate to widely predict by industry to predict the amount of
was used as the activation function for the consumption of jean trousers. Fig- thread required to sew jean trouser gar-
the hidden neurons. The pure linear trans- ure 5 shows the accuracy of the values ments and, hence, enable reliable estima-
fer function for the output neuron is the obtained using the validation sample to tion of the trouser costs and raw material
purelin function. This structure is called test this neural network model. This is required.
multilayer perceptron (MLP). During the in good agreement with Jaouadi et al.’s
training step of t h e MLP, a n error back study [16]. Regarding the good fitting of
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Objective Method of Measuring Fabric 835-845. Received 19.04.2013 Reviewed 03.08.2014

INSTITUTE OF BIOPOLYMERS AND CHEMICAL FIBRES

LABORATORY OF ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION


AB 388

The Laboratory works and specialises in three fundamental fields:


n R&D activities: research works on new technology and techniques, particularly environmental protection; evaluation and improvement
of technology used in domestic mills; development of new research and analytical methods;
n research services (measurements and analytical tests) in the field of environmental protection, especially monitoring the emission of pol-
lutants;
n seminar and training activity concerning methods of instrumental analysis, especially the analysis of water and wastewater, chemicals
used in paper production, and environmental protection in the paper-making industry.

Since 2004 Laboratory has had the accreditation of the Polish Centre for Accreditation No. AB 551, confirming that
the Laboratory meets the requirements of Standard PN-EN ISO/IEC 17025:2005.

Investigations in the field of environmental protection technology:


n Research and development of waste water treatment technology, the treatment technology and abatement of gaseous emissions, and
the utilisation and reuse of solid waste, Monitoring the technological progress of environmentally friendly technology in paper-making and
the best available techniques (BAT), Working out and adapting analytical methods for testing the content of pollutants and trace concentra-
tions of toxic compounds in waste water, gaseous emissions, solid waste and products of the paper-making industry, Monitoring ecological
legislation at a domestic and world level, particularly in the European Union.

A list of the analyses most frequently carried out:


n Global water & waste water pollution factors: COD, BOD, TOC, suspended solid (TSS), tot-N, tot-P, Halogenoorganic compounds (AOX,
TOX, TX, EOX, POX), Organic sulphur compounds (AOS, TS), Resin and chlororesin acids, Saturated and unsaturated fatty acids,
Phenol and phenolic compounds (guaiacols, catechols, vanillin, veratrols), Tetrachlorophenol, Pentachlorophenol (PCP), Hexachlorocy-
clohexane (lindane), Aromatic and polyaromatic hydrocarbons, Benzene, Hexachlorobenzene, Phthalates, Polychloro-Biphenyls (PCB),
Carbohydrates, Glyoxal, Glycols, Tin organic compounds.

Contact:

INSTITUTE OF BIOPOLYMERS AND CHEMICAL FIBRES


ul. M. Skłodowskiej-Curie 19/27, 90-570 Łódź, Poland
Małgorzata Michniewicz Ph. D.,
tel. (+48 42) 638 03 31, e-mail: michniewicz@ibwch.lodz.pl

96 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2015, Vol. 23, 3(111)

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