Wave Motion

V.Sundar

WORKED OUT EXAMPLES on WAVE MECHANICS

Problem – 1

A wave flume is filled with fresh water to a depth of 5m. A wave of height 1m and
period, 4 sec. is generated. Calculate the wave celerity, group celerity, energy and power.

Solution: -

d d
= tanh kd
Lo L
L o = 1.56 ∗ T 2 = 1.56 ∗ (4) 2 = 24.96 m
d 5
= = 0.2003
Lo 24.96
From ' Wave Tables'
d d
= 0.2251 corresponding to = 0.2003
L Lo
∴ L = 22.21 m
L 22.21
Celerity = = = 5.55 m / sec
T 4

C⎡ 2kd ⎤
Group Celerity = ⎢1 + ⎥
2 ⎣ sinh 2kd ⎦
.52 ⎡ 2.83 ⎤
= 1 +
2 ⎢⎣ 8.436 ⎥⎦
= 3.71 m/sec.

γH 2 1000 ∗ (1) 2
Energy = = = 125 kg / m
8 8
γH 2
Power = C G = 125 ∗ 3.71 = 463.75 kg / sec
8

PROBLEM – 2

Oscillatory surface waves were observed in deep water and the wave period was found to
be 6.7 sec.
(i) At what bottom depth would the phase velocity begin to be changed by the
decreasing water depth.
(ii) What is the phase velocity at a bottom depth of 15.3 m and 3.06 m.

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(iii) Compute the ratio of Celerity at the above water depths to the deep water
celerities.

SOLUTION: -

(i) L o = 1.56 ∗ T 2 = 1.56 ∗ 6.7 2 = 70.03m

The celerity will change, when water depth is less than

L o 70.03
= = 35.01m
2 2

(ii) At d = 15.3 m

d 15.3
= = 0.2185
L o 70.03

d
From Appendix ‘A’ (Wave tables) corresponding = 0.2408
L
15.3
Hence L = = 63.54 m
0.2408

L 63.54
Celerity = = = 9.48 m / sec
T 6.7

At d = 3.06 m

d 3.06
= = 0.0437
Lo 70.03
d
Corresponding = 0.0871
L

3.06
Hence L = = 35.13m
0.0871

L 35.13
Celerity = = = 5.24 m / sec .
T 6 .7

C 9.48 9.48
(iii) At d = 15.3, ratio = = 0.907
C o 1.56 ∗ T 1.56 ∗ 6.7

C 5.24 5.24
At d = 3.06, ratio = = = 0.501
C o 1.56 ∗ T 1.56 ∗ 6.7

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PROBLEM- 3
A wave flume is filled with fresh water to a depth of 5m. A deep-water wave height 2m
and time period, 4 sec. is generated. For a given n=0.6689, calculate the wave celerity,
group celerity, energy and power.

From tables, for n = 0.6689

d d
= 0.1990 = 0.2243
Lo L
L0 = 25.12 L = 22.29
Lo = 1.56 ∗T 2

T = 4 sec
C = L / T = 5.57
Cg = 3.72
H
= 0.9179
Ho
H = 0.9179 * 2 = 1.83m
γH 2 1000 ∗ (1.83) 2
Energy = = = 418.6 kg / m
8 8
γH 2
Power = C G = 418.6 * 3.72 = 1557.22kg / sec
8
PROBLEM – 4

A wave of height 3m and period, 6 sec. is generated. Calculate the wave celerity, group
celerity, energy and power in water depths, 2m, 5m and 10m.
Solution: -
d=5 m
d d
= tanh kd
Lo L
Lo = 1.56 ∗ T 2 = 1.56 ∗ (6) 2 = 56.16 m
d 5
= = 0.089
Lo 56.16
From ' Wave Tables '
d d
= 01313 corresponding to = 0.089
L Lo

n=0.8290 L=38.08

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L 38.08
Celerity = = = 6.34 m / sec
T 4

Group Celerity = C * n
= 6.34*0.8260
= 5.26 m/sec.

d=2m
d d
= tanh kd
Lo L
Lo =1.56 ∗ T 2 = 1.56 ∗ (6) 2 = 56.16 m
d 2
= = .0356
Lo 56.16
From ' Wave Tables '
d d
= 0.07748 corresponding to = .0356
L Lo

n=0.8290 L=25.81 m

L 25.81
Celerity = = = 4.30 m / sec
T 4

Group Celerity = C * n
= 4.30 * 0.9289
= 3.99m/sec.

d=10m
d d
= tanh kd
Lo L
Lo = 1.56 ∗ T 2 = 1.56 ∗ (6) 2 = 56.16 m
d 10
= = 0.1780
Lo 56.16
From ' Wave Tables '
d d
= 0.01780 corresponding to = 0 .2066
L Lo

n=0.6946 L=48.40

L 48.40
Celerity = = = 8.06 m / sec
T 4

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V.Sundar

Group Celerity = C * n
= 8.06*0.6946
= 5.59m/sec.

PROBLEM – 5

Consider a particle initially 3.06m below the SWL and 12.24 m above the sea bed. After
the wave motion is established, what is the size and character of the orbit of the particle.
Repeat the calculations for the particle at the surface and the other at the sea bed. T = 6.7
sec. and Ho = 3.06 m.

Solution: -
Water depth, d = 3.06 + 12.24
= 15.3m
2
Lo = 1.56 T = 70.03 m

d 15.3
= = 0.2185
L o 70.03

1 d 1
The wave is in intermediate water depth condition < < . The particles will move in
20 L 2
elliptical orbit.
d H d
From Appendix ‘A’, = 0.2408 and = 0.9227 for = 0.2185
L Ho Lo
i.e., H = 0.9227 * 3.06m = 2.8235 m
2π
L = 63.6m : k = = 0.099 : kd = 1.515
L
Sinhkd = 2.16

At z = -3.06 m
H cosh k (d + z)
Semi Major axis (D) =
2 sinh kd
= 1.1923m
H sinh k (d + z)
Semi minor axis (B) =
2 sinh kd
= 0.9969 m.

At the surface, z = 0

H cosh kd
D= = 1.555m
2 sinh kd

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H sinh kd
B= = 1.4117 m
2 sinh kd

At the sea bed, z = -15.3 m

2.8235 1
D= * = 0.6536 m
2 2.16

H
B= *0 = 0
2

The water displacements at the three different levels are illustrated in the Fig. below.

PROBLEM – 6
The semi major axis and semi minor axis are 1.1m and 1.0m at z = -2m. Calculate the water
depth, time period, wave height corresponding to this, as well as deep water wave height when
k = 0.14 and also find the displacement at z=-5 m, at sea bed and at free surface.

Solution: -

for k = 0.14,
from table
d
= 0.4180
Lo
d
= 0.4222
L
H/HO=0.9795

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V.Sundar

2π
K=
L
L=44.87
d
= 0.4222
L

d = 19m

d
= 0 .4180
Lo

Lo=45.45 m
T=5.45 sec

At z = -2

Cosh k(d+z) = 5.44, sinh kd = 7.113

H cosh k ( d + z )
D= = 1.1m
2 sinh kd
H 5.44
* = 1 .1
2 7.113

H =2.87m
(we can also use the semi minor axis to find the H value)

H0 = H/0.9795
H0=2.93m

At the, sea bed z = 0

H cosh k (d + z )
D= = 1.44m
2 sinh kd
H sinh k (d + z )
B= = 1.435 m
2 sinh kd

At the surface, z = -19 m

2.87 1
D= * = 0.20m
2 7.113
H
B = *0 = 0
2

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V.Sundar

Z=-5 m
Cosh k(d+z) = 3.62 sinh k(d+z) = 3.47

H cosh k (d + z)
Semi Major axis (D) =
2 sinh kd
= 0.730m
H sinh k (d + z)
Semi minor axis (B) =
2 sinh kd
= 0.700 m.
PROBLEM – 7

Consider a particle initially 5m below the SWL and 20 m above the sea bed. After the
wave motion is established, what is the size and character of the orbit of the particle.
Repeat the calculations for the particle at the surface and the other at the sea bed. L=33m
and a=2 m

Solution: -
Water depth, d = 5+ 20
= 25m

d 25
= = 0.7575
L 33

d 1
The wave is in deep water depth condition > . The particles will move in circular
L 2
orbit.
d H d
From Appendix ‘A’, = 0.75745 and = 0.9994 for = 0.7600
L Ho Lo
i.e., H = a*2 = 4m
2π
L = 33m ; k = = 0.190 : kd = 4.75
L

Z=-5 m
H cosh k (d + z)
Semi Major axis (D) =
2 sinh kd
= 0.774m
Semi minor axis (B) = 0.774 m.(since deep water)

At the surface, z = 0

H cosh kd
D= = 2m
2 sinh kd

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B = 2 m (since deep water)

At the sea bed, z = -25 m

4 1
D= * = 0.034m
2 57.79

H
B= *0 = 0
2

Problem –8

For a wave of height 2m and period 7 secs, plot the variation of orbital velocity and
acceleration in the vertical and horizontal directions of a particle at a position 4m below
SWL and 20 m above the sea bed. Estimate the maximum velocities at this position, at
SWL and at the sea bed.

Solution:

d = 20 + 4 = 2m

d 24 24
= = = 0.314
L o 1.56 * T 2 1.56 * (7 )2

d
corresponding = 0.325, L = 73.96 m
L

At z = -4.0 m

Kd = 2.039, cosh k(d+z) = 2.826, cosh (kd) = 3.907

Sinh k(d +z) = 2.643, sinh (kd) = 3.776

Substituting the values in the expressions for u and w (eq.2.39 & 2.40)

π ∗ 2 2.826
u max = ∗ = 0.672 m / sec .
7 3.776

− π ∗ 2 2.643
w max = ∗ = − 0.628 m / sec .
7 3.776

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o 2π 2 H cosh k (d + z)
u max = − = − 0.603 m / s 2
2 sinh kd
T

o 2π 2 H sinh k (d + z)
w max = − = − 0.564 m / s 2
2 sinh kd
T

At z = 0.0

Coshk(d + z) =3.907, sinh k(d + z) = 3.776

π ∗ 2 3.907
u max = ∗ = 0.929m / sec .
7 3.776

− π ∗ 2 3.776
w max = ∗ = − 898 m / sec .
7 3.776

o
u max = − 0.833 m / s 2

o
w max = − 0.805 m / s 2

At z = -24.0

Coshk(d +z) = 1.0, sinh k(d +z) = 0.0

π∗2 1
u max = ∗ = 0.238 m / sec .
7 3.776

o
u max = − 0.213 m / s 2

o
w max = 0

− π∗ 2
w max = ∗ 0.0 = − 0.0 m / sec .
7

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1.0 1.0 1.0

u m/sec
0.5 0.5 0.5

w m/sec
0.0 0.0 0.0
(m)
0 90 180 270 360 0 90 180 270 360 0 90 180 270 360

-0.5 -0.5 -0.5

-1.0 -1.0 -1.0

1.0 1.0

0.5 0.5
2
U m/sec

W m/sec
0.0 0.0
o
0 90 180 270 360 0 90 180 270 360

-0.5 -0.5

-1.0 -1.0
o o
The phase variation of u, w, u and w are shown in the figure below.

Problem – 9

Determine the maximum orbital velocities and accelerations in the horizontal and vertical
directions of the particle at a position (i) 3.06m below SWL and 12.24 above the sea floor
(ii) at SWL and at the sea bed for H = 2.82 m and T = 6.7 sec.

Solution:

πH cosh k (d + z)
u max = .
T sinh kd

− πH sinh k (d + z)
w max = .
T sinh kd

. − 2π 2 H cosh k (d + z)
u= .
T2 sinh kd

. − 2π 2 H sinh k (d + z)
w= .
T2 sinh kd

d = 3.06 +12.24 = 15.3 m

L = 63.587m, kd = 1.512, sinh kd = 2.157

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Using the appropriate expressions

For z = -3.06m : cosh k (d+z) = 1.825, sinh k (d+z) = 1.527

π ∗ 2.82 1.825
u max = ∗ = 1.119 m / sec .
6 .7 2.157

− π ∗ 2.82 1.527
w max = ∗ = − 1.049 m / sec .
6.7 2.157

. 2 ∗ π ∗ π ∗ 2.82 1.825
u max = ∗ = − 1.049 m / sec 2
6 .7 ∗ 6 .7 2.157

. − 2 ∗ π ∗ π ∗ 2.82 1.527
w max = ∗ = − 0.878 m / sec 2
6 .7 ∗ 6 .7 2.157

Similarly

at z = 0.0 : cosh k (d+z) =2.378, sinh k(d+z) = 2.157

u max =1.457 m / sec, w max = − 1.322 m / sec

. .
u max = − 1.367 m / sec 2 , w max = − 1.24 m / sec 2

at z =15.3: cosh k(d+z) = 1.0, sinh k(d+z) = 0.0

u max = 0.613 m / sec , w max = 0.0

. .
u max = − 0.57 m / sec 2 , w max = 0.0

Problem -10

A wave with a height, 5.5m and period, 8 secs propagates in a water depth of 15m.
Determine the local horizontal and vertical velocities at a depth 3m below the SWL when
phase angle is 60o.

Solution :

z =-3m, d = 15m, T = 8 sec., kd = 1.152, L = 81.79,

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Cosh k(d+z) = 1.456, sinh kd = 1.425

Sinh k(d+z) = 1.058

πH cosh k (d + z)
u= . . sin θ
T sinh kd

− πH sinh k (d + z)
w= . . sin θ
T sinh kd

Subsituting the corresponding values in the above expressions at

θ = 60 o

π ∗ 5.5 1.456
u= ∗ ∗ sin 60 = 1.911 m/s
8 1.425

where as,

u max = 2.21 m / sec .

− π ∗ 5.5 1.058
w= ∗ ∗ cos 60 = − 0.8 m / sec .
8 1.425

where as,

w max = − 1.604 m / sec .

Problem – 11

A wave of height 5.5m and wave length of 81.79m propagates in a water depth of 15m.
Determine the local horizontal and vertical velocities at depth 3m below the SWL at a
position one fifth ahead of the wave crest.

Solution:

For L = 81.79 m, d=15m, kd = 1.152

1 ⎛1 ⎞
Phase angle at ∗ L⎜ ∗ 81.79 = 16.358 m ⎟
5 ⎝5 ⎠
16.358
θ= ∗ 360 o = 72 o + 90 o = 162 o
81.79

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At z = -3m,

Cosh k(d+z) = 1.456, sinh kd = 1.425

Sinh k(d+z) = 1.058

Using the expressions for u and w

π ∗ 5.5 1.456
u= ∗ ∗ sin (162) = 0.68 m / s.
8 1.425

Similarly for w

− π ∗ 5.5 1.058
w= ∗ ∗ cos (162 ) = + 1.5216 m / sec .
8 1.425

Problem 12

A wave of height H = 3m and wave period T = 10s, propagates in a water depth of

12m, the corresponding deep-water wave height Ho = 3.5m. Estimate,
(a) The horizontal and vertical displacements from its mean position at z = 0 and
Z=-d.
(b) The maximum water particle displacements at a depth of 7.50m below SWL,
Where the wave is in deep water.
(c) For the deep water conditions of above show that the water particle
Displacements are small relative to the wave height at z = − Lo
2
(d) Also, compare the water particle displacements in deep water conditions for
the corresponding deep-water wave height, Ho = 3.5m and wave period T =
15s at z = -7.5m

Solution:-

Given Data
Wave height, H = 3m
Wave period, T = 10s
Deep water wave height, Ho = 3.5m
(a) The maximum horizontal (D) and vertical (B) displacements of water particle.
Lo = 1.56 T2 = 1.56 (10)2 = 156m.
d 12
= = 0.07692
Lo 156

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d d 12
From table = 0.1205 ⇒ L = = = 99.58m
L 0.1205 0.1205

2π 2π
K= = = 0.0631
L 99.58

tanh kd = tanh (0.0631 x 12) = 0.6394

sinh kd = sinh (0.0631 x 12) = 0.8316

@z=0

H cosh k (d + z )
D=
2 sinh kd

D (z = 0 ) =
H cosh kd H 1 3 1
= = ×
2 2 sinh kd 2 tanh kd 2 0.6394
= 2.34m.

H sinh k (d + z ) H sinh kd H 3.0

B= = = =
2 sinh kd 2 sinh kd 2 2
= 1.5m.

@ z = -d = -12m

H 1 3⎛ 1 ⎞
D= = ⎜ ⎟ = 1.80m
2 sinh kd 2 ⎝ 0.8316 ⎠
B=0

D=2.34m
B=1.50m
Z=0

Z = -d
B=0
D = 180m

(b) In deep water conditions, at z = -7.5m

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2π 2π
Ko = = = 0.0402
L o 156
H o k o z 3.5 (0.0402 × (− 7.5))
D=B= e = e
2 2
= 1.2938m
− Lo
(c) In deep water conditions at z =
2
− 156
z= = − 78m
2
H o = 3 .5 m
H o k o z 3.5 [0.0402 × (− 78)]
D=B= e = e
2 2
= 0.07562m.

So, it is inferred that for deep-water conditions the particle displacements are very small at

− 156
z= = − 78m Z=-7.5m
2
Compared with z = -7.5m. 17D
1.2938
= 17.1092 ≅ 17 D
0.07562
17B
− L0
Z=-78m= 2

(d) T = 15s, Ho = 3.5m.

Lo = 1.56 T2 = 1.56 (15)2 = 351m
2π 2π
Ko = = 0.0179.
L o 351
− L o − 351
At z = = = − 175.5m
2 2
H 3.5 (0.0179 × (−175.5))
D = B = o ek oz = e
2 2
= 0.07563m.

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at Z = -78m

H o k o z 3.5 (0.0179×(− 78))

D=B= e = e
2 2
= 0.43318m.

Horizontal and vertical Displacements

(at Z = − 78m ) = 0.43318
Horizontal and vertical Displacements 0.07563
⎛ L ⎞
⎜ at Z = o = − 175.5m ⎟
⎝ 2 ⎠

= 5.72 ≅ 6
Hence, the displacements of the water particle at Z = -78m are approximately six
− Lo
times the displacements at Z = = − 175.5m.
2
If z=-0.2depth, for T=15secs and 10secs, B=D=1.67m for the former and B=D=1.37m for
the later, indicating that the displacement for longer period wave, the displacement is
more.

Problem 13
Aerial photographs of a coastal line displayed the presence of two wave systems. One with
crests 60m apart and another with crests at 12m spacing. Timing of major breaking on the
beach in the same period indicated the wave period to be10 sec., for the longer wave. What
was the depth of water in the zone of wave observation and what was the period of the minor
wave system?
Solution:
Lmajor = 60m : Lminor = 12m
Tmajor = 10 sec.

gT 2
L= tanh (kd )
2π

g 10 2
60 = * . tanh (kd )
2 π
tanh (kd) = 0.3840

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Corresponding to this value, from the ‘wave tables’ d/L = 0.06478

Since Lmajor = 60 m
d = 0.06478 * 60 = 3.89m
2
gTmin ⎛ 2π ⎞
L min or = or
tanh ⎜ * d ⎟
2π ⎝ L ⎠

gT 2 ⎛ 2π ⎞
12 = min or * tanh ⎜ * 3.98 ⎟
2π ⎝ 12 ⎠

24 π
Tmin or = = 2.8 sec
9.8 * 0.97

Problem 14
Ocean waves measure 90m from crest to crest when travelling at a point at a speed of 32
km/hr. Find the depth in the ocean at this point and the period of waves. If the waves
were fully grown and their steepness, H/L = 1/23, what is the wave height?

Solution:
L = 90m
L
= 32km / hr
T
L 90 * 60 * 60
T= = = 10.1 sec .
32 32000
C = 32 km / hr = 32 * 5 / 18 = 8.89 m / sec

gL
C= tanh kd = 8.89
2π
gL tanh kd
i.e. = (8.89) 2 = 79.012
2π
79.012 * 2 * π
Therefore tanh kd = = 0.5629
9.8 * 90
Corresponding ‘kd’ from wave tables = 0.6366

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0.6366 * 90
d= = 9.1186 m
2π
H 1
=
L 23
L 90
H= = = 3.913 m
23 23

Problem 15
If a pressure sensing instrument is set up at 4m below SWL in a water depth of 20m,
determine the phase distribution of pressure head this instrument would record. Plot this
pressure head against phase and compare this result to the phase variation of hydrostatic
pressure. The wave height is 2m and period is 10 sec. and γ = 1020 kg/m3.

Solution:
The pressure head under a progressive wave is
p ⎛H ⎞
= ⎜ sin θ ⎟ K p − z
γ ⎝2 ⎠
For T = 10 sec, d = 20 m
L is calculated as 121.24m
k = 0.0519 kd = 2π/L * d = 1.037

cosh k (d + z) cosh (k (20 − 4)) 1.364

Kp = = = = 0.859
cosh kd cosh (k * 20) 1.587

p 2.0
Dynamic pressure head , = * 0.859 * sin θ
γ 2
2 .0
Dynamicpressure, p = x 0.859 x 1 x 1020 = 876 Kg / m 2
2
= 0.876 m of water column.
⎡⎛ 2 ⎞ ⎤
Total Pressure , p = ⎢⎜ sin θ ⎟0.859 + 4⎥ x 1020 = 4956.18 kg / m 2
⎣⎝ 2 ⎠ ⎦

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Hydrostatic pressure head = 0.5*H*sinθ - z

For T = 5 sec., d = 20 m, d/L = 0.5, L = Lo = 39

k = 2π/39 = 0.1611, kd = 3.22
cosh [0.1611 (20 − 4 )] cosh (2.578) 6 .6
Kp = = = = 0.52
cosh (0.1611 * 20 ) cosh (3.222) 12.54

⎡ 2 .0 ⎤
Total Pr essure P = ⎢ * 0.5282 sin θ⎥ x 1020 = 538.73 kg / m 2
⎣ 2 ⎦
Note:
For a wave period of 5 secs the total pressure is less when compared to the wave period
of 10 sec for the other conditions NOT being changed.
So, For longer waves the pressure is more

Problem 16
A subsurface pressure type recorder is installed at a depth of 6m at the point where water
depth is 8m. The average maximum pressure and the period registered by the recorder
are 3060 kg/m3 and 9.2 sec respectively. Compute η, γ = 1020 kg/m3.

Solution:

k = 0.0823
cosh [0.0823 (8 − 6)]
Kp = = 0.8276
cosh [0.0823 * 8]

p
=η Kp − z
γ
3060
= η * 0.8276 − (−6)
1020
⎡ 3060 ⎤ 1
η =⎢ − 6⎥ .
⎣ 1020 ⎦ 0.8276
η = - 3.62 m
Note: Problem incorrect due to wave breaking condition

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Problem 17
An average maximum pressure of 12500 kg/m2 is measured by a sub surface pressure
recorder located at 0.6m above the sea bed in a water depth of 12m. The average wave
frequency is 0.0666 cycles/sec. and γ = 1025 kg/m3. Determine the wave height.

Solution:
p
= K pη − z
γ
The maximum pressure would occur at
η = H/2 (Crest of the wave)
pmax = 12500, γ = 1025, z = - (12 – 0.6) = -11.4 m
1
T= = 15 sec ., L = 157.6m
0.0666

⎡ 2π ⎤
cosh ⎢ * (12 − 11.4⎥
Kp = ⎣157.6 ⎦ = 1.0003 = 0.8952
⎡ 2π ⎤ 1.1174
cosh ⎢ *12⎥
⎣157.6 ⎦

Substituting for the variables in the above formula

= 0.8952 * − (− 11.4 )
12500 H
1025 2

Hence H=1.78 m

Problem: 18

Water depth,d =12m, Wave period, T=10sec and Wave height, H=1.0m

21
 Wave Motion
V.Sundar

(a) Calculate mass transport velocity, u(z) for z=0 to –d and find out the effect of z/d on
u(z)
(b) d=12m, T=10sec and H=0.5 to 9m at 0.5m interval. Find the effect of H/L on u(z) at
z=0.0
(c) d=12m, H=2.0m and T=5 to 15sec at every 1sec interval. Find the effect of d/L on
u(z) at z=0.0

Solution:
2
⎛ πH ⎞ C cosh 2 k ( d + z )
Mass transport velocity u(z) = ⎜ L ⎟ m/sec
⎝ ⎠ 2 sinh 2 kd

(i) Effect of z/d on u(z):

Fig.1 shows the variation of u(z) with respect to the various values of z/d. It is
observed that the mass transport velocity decreases with increase in z/d values. i.e the
mass transport velocity decrease from the free surface towards the sea bed.

(ii) Effect of H/L on u(z):

Fig.2 shows the variation of u(z) with respect to the various of H/L. From the plot, it is
clear that u(z) increases with increase in H/L values. This means that, as the wave height
increases the mass transport velocity also increases.

(iii) Effect of d/L on u(z):

Fig.3 shows the variation of u(z) for various values of d/L. The plot shows that with
increase in d/L values u(z) also increases. If wave period increases, then the mass
transport decreases.

22
 Wave Motion
V.Sundar

d=12m, T=10sec , H=1.0m

z=0.0 to d @ 1m interval
0.020

U(z) m/sec
0.010

0.000

0.0 0.5 1.0

z/d

Fig.1 Variation of U(z) with z/d

d=12.0m, H=2.0m, z=0.0

d=12.0m, T=12sec, z=0.0
T=5 to 15sec @ 1 sec interval
H=0.5 to 9m @ 0.5m interval
0.20
2.0
U(z) m/sec
U(z) m/sec

0.10
1.0

0.00
0.0

0.04 0.08 0.12

0.0 0.1 0.1
d/L
H/L

Fig.3 Variation of U(z) with d/L

Fig.2 Variation of U(z) with H/L

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