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Using AC with LEDs (Part 3) - The BIG light

by qs on August 21, 2008

Table of Contents

Using AC with LEDs (Part 3) - The BIG light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro: Using AC with LEDs (Part 3) - The BIG light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1: The no-transformer transformer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 2: Pushing the envelope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 3: Build time! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 4: Behold! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Step 5: Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 6: Crunching Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
Intro: Using AC with LEDs (Part 3) - The BIG light
In Using AC with LEDs, part 1 and part 2 , we looked at ways to adapt AC power to LEDs without the usual conversion to pure DC first.

Here, in part 3, we combine what we learned before to design a LED light that operated directly off AC mains.

Warning: AC mains is hundreds of volts, and is potentially lethal. Please take all necessary precautions before you start working with it!

Image Notes
1. 3-watts is all this LED light uses - and it is easily 10-times brighter than a 3-watt
night light.

Step 1: The no-transformer transformer.

When we connected LEDs to AC transformers, the calculation we used was:

Vac / 3.3

to give us the number of LEDs we need to be able to properly handle the power without additional resistors and other parts.

What if we bypass the transformer completely and consider AC mains? In some ways it is simpler - the voltage from transformers could vary greatly with the load we put
on it, whereas AC mains are much more stable.

If we use the 110v standard of the US, we first calculate the peak voltage, 1.4 * 110 = 156 and we can find the number of LEDs it can support:

156 / 3.3 = 47 LEDs

So, does that mean that if we put 47 LEDs in series, we can run the whole string directly off a 110v AC socket?

The answer is Yes! As long as we maintain the voltage across each LED at 3.5v or less, it will operate within its limits.

But then, let's not forget that for each positive cycle, there is a negative cycle! That means we need a mirror circuit like in (1).

Wow, that's an awful lot of bulbs!

However, if we add a blocking diode like in circuit (2), then we can safely operate our circuit. The 1N4003 is capable of handling 200 volts so is fine for US power.

For EU countries, the magic number is 103 LEDs (double if you want to use both cycles) and the diode for ckt (2) should be a 1N4004 or better.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
Step 2: Pushing the envelope
Remember that, because we're using the diode to block half our cycle, the LEDs in circuit (2) only works 1/2 the time. How can we make them light up for the other half
as well?

With a simple part called a Bridge Rectifier this can happen. This device is actually 4 diodes connected in a criss-cross way to make both cycles go in the same direction.
Electronic fans will know this as part of the 'Full-wave rectification' circuit (as opposed to Half-wave).

With this addition, our LEDs will be turning on twice as often and we WILL get twice as much light from them.

Step 3: Build time!

So, we can start our build of a simple all-LED + a bridge circuit to run off 110v mains.

You will need:

Lots of white LEDs - naturally! And TEST them all!

AC line cord

Perfboard

1N4003 diode or 200volt bridge rectifier

The first picture is what my circuit looks like when finished. Quick eyes will note that there are only 42 LEDs on board. Because of the need to accomodate the bridge on
the board, and because of the relatively stable nature of our mains, we can run our lights a tad over 20mA.

The Bridge has 4 leads: 2 marked (~), a (+) positive and a (-) negative. The (~) ones go to AC Mains.

Start by connecting the Bridge (+) to the longer (+) lead of the first LED, then take the short lead to the long lead of the next LED. Do 1 row, double and triple check
before soldering! Work your way down, ALWAYS connecting shorter to longer.

I have additional pictures below showing the various stages of completion. Print them out to help you do the wiring.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
 Image Notes
1. Incidentally, the size and tone of the yellow spot inside white LEDs can tell you
a lot about its health and brightness.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
Step 4: Behold!
...

And there is light!

Because of the hazardous nature of the components when plugged in, I covered the circuit board with a triple layer of parchment paper, which has a good dielectric
value, and can withstand over 400F of heat.

Then I mounted the board on the lid of a take out container, using a foam spacer from a DVD spindle, with a cutout for the power cord.

The light output is equivalent to a 40-watt frosted bulb, but the container is barely warm.

Remember: Always unplug the circuit before you touch any exposed parts.

Also, the LEDs will be running close to their rated current, which could mean temperatures as high as 85C on their surfaces.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
Step 5: Variations
Too bright?

You can combine circuits (2) and (3) to give our light a Hi/Lo switch. In Hi, the switch shorts the diode so that it operates in Full-wave mode as in (3). Opening the switch
only allows current to flow half the time, just like (2).

Ozzies and Brits: You too can use the 42/47 LED circuits - just combine the US version (.4uF and 1K-ohm) circuit presented in part 2 and you too can make a AC-mains
light with just 42 LEDs! Or check out the calculations in the following step.

Oh yeah, our 'big' light is super thrifty - running off 110-volt mains, it barely consumes 3-watts.

Find out about more ways to light your house with LEDs off A/C mains here!

Image Notes
1. I call this "Still Life with LEDs"

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
Step 6: Crunching Numbers
Here is a recap of the calculations used for this project:

To operate white LEDs (nominal voltage 3.3v) safely off AC Mains without using any regulation (other than the diode bridge), the magic number is: Vac * 1.4 / 3.3. Which
is the minimum number of LEDs in series that will run off AC without exceeding its 'comfortable' operating range. The choice of LEDs can be 20mA or higher - AS LONG
AS they are all the same type and attached in series.

If you are using the full number of LEDs calculated above, that is all you need, but for arrangements using fewer LEDs (but no fewer than 30), we need to add the voltage
dropping RC combination. R is always a 1K, 1Watt resistor, while the value of C is calculate as:

Vpk= Vac * 1.4

Vdd= N * 3.3, where N is the number of white LEDs we wish to use in series.
Iled = 0.02, the current we want for our LEDs.
C = 1 / (2 * pi * f * (Vpk-Vdd) / Iled), where f is the mains frequency, but you can simplify it to: (58 / (Vpk-Vdd)) in micro-farads (uF), and should range between .1 and .5
uF. Make sure it is a non-polar capacitor.

IMPORTANT: Parts must be rated for at least Vpk, and enough current to handle Iled.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 83 comments

maanhe3r says: Mar 4, 2011. 5:57 PM REPLY

Hello qs.
I commend and thank you on a very interesting and educational Instructable. I really like the way you try to teach the principles instead of just showing how
to slap something together. Your style has inspired me to want to try building the circuit in sketch 3 / step 2.
My question: How many of the circuits as in sketch 3 step 2 can I connect safely to one 120V outlet? What is it I have to be careful of ( current, voltage,
power, ?).
I'm looking to replace a tube fluorescent lamp in the kitchen and am thinking I will probable need 4 or 6 such circuits (?) to get an equivalent lighting effect.

qs says: Mar 4, 2011. 7:09 PM REPLY

A crude rule-of-thumb is to multiply the wattage of the LEDs by 5 to get the equivalent output of a fluorescent. However, if the light is in a single direction,
the multiplier can be as high as 10, since the LED is naturally directional.

Here, if you are using 117v, then the 50 or so LEDs will dissipate about 4-watts, making them equivalent to a 20W tube; or a 40W one if aimed down
from the ceiling. Running 240v in other countries will see about 10watts.

clchee says: Feb 28, 2011. 2:40 AM REPLY

For the circuit with AC Cap, does it matter if Live and Neutral was connected the other way round ? Just in case deliberately or accidentally someone
swapped the L and N positions at the outlet.

qs says: Mar 4, 2011. 6:58 PM REPLY

It doesn't matter which side is used, AS LONG AS YOU ADHERE TO STRICT HIGH-VOLTAGE PRECAUTIONS: Do not touch or adjust ANY part of the
circuit if it is plugged in!

Dipankar says: Dec 9, 2010. 4:17 PM REPLY

Let me know if I am wrong.........

1.4 x 220v = 308

308 divided by 3.5 = 88
So 88 LED's on both sides without using a Bridge Rectifier.

positive cycle and negative cycle,

That means we have a mirror circuit with 88 + 88 LED's
Am I right?

qs says: Dec 9, 2010. 8:06 PM REPLY

Yes, your calculations are right.

Coincidentally, Phillips has announce THEIR version of this 'big' light for 230v where they place 96 SMT (Surface mount) LEDs in series with a bridge
rectifier. This allows the LEDs to run cooler and perhaps extend their life.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
 Dipankar says: Dec 10, 2010. 2:57 PM REPLY
I think the Phillips SMT (Surface mount) LEDs will be costing hell of a lot of money?

qs says: Dec 11, 2010. 12:15 AM REPLY

And you'd be right! No firm prices yet but bhey are claiming life in 10's if not 100-thousand hours and that a panel will save over $150 of electricity
over their life.

Dipankar says: Dec 11, 2010. 2:26 PM REPLY

$150 of electricity over their life time is peanuts?
I would rather stick to the present cheap ones, cause if they give me 5 years my money is worth it.
Over 2 years has passed and my LED Chandelier is being used daily is still going strong without any LED's packing up. Isn't that something?

-shtoink- says: Mar 28, 2010. 9:47 AM REPLY

I am hoping that you might be able to verify that I am going about this the correct way. I'm not actually trying to drive LEDs right from the AC in the wall, but
rather from an AC inverter meant to drive a CCFL for a small LCD picture frame. It's a 7 inch wide screen LCD. I would like to still be able to make use of the
features for controlling the backlight-off timer built in to the device, but may not be able to if this isn't a good option. Before I go ahead with this, does it sound
possible or should I look at using DC to drive the LEDs from another location on the board.

Here's what I measured: V AC is about 540V and the current is about 2.5 A.

I wasn't able to measure the frequency, but looked of the values of other DC-AD inverters and they ranged between 30 to 50 kHz.

Running through the calculations, I get X=38184 ohms and C=1.4E-10 F when using the 30 kHz frequency.

ironsmiter says: Oct 21, 2010. 3:27 AM REPLY

I know this reply is a bit dated, but in case anyone goes rummaging through the archives....
The answer is NO.
DO NOT attempt to run led's from the inverter output.
In actuality, you may have measured 540VAC, but due to the frequency put out, it may actually be producing over 1000volt, and your meter just not able
to cope with the switching speed.

If you MUST use that control board, I'd suggest tapping into the circuit somewhere safe, and before the inverter.
To retain the most factory like operation, I'd personally remove the inverter, anbd tap into the former input locations to power my led circuit. but that's just
me.

-shtoink- says: Mar 28, 2010. 10:30 AM REPLY

I should note that I did these calculations with the measured VAC*sqrt(2). Thinking about that now, it was probably not correct.

R = 540 / 0.02 = 27000

C = 1/(2*PI*30000*27000) = 1.96E-10

Those are most likely the values I need to use if this is something that might work.

kreak403 says: Feb 16, 2010. 7:46 PM REPLY

Drink much?

budiyanto says: Jan 13, 2010. 11:15 PM REPLY

pak kalau diindonesia tegangan umumnya 220 volt bagaimana sama saja tidak skemanya atau beda terima kasih

elementarywatts says: Sep 17, 2009. 8:39 AM REPLY

If the leds are 100ma instead of 20ma would the value of R change? The purpose of R is to protect against spikes in the current? How id the value of R
calculated? Thanks

qs says: Sep 17, 2009. 10:03 AM REPLY

For anything other than 20mA LEDs, it is not advisable to use this method to reduce the voltage: use a transformer (See part 1 ) or a direct-connect
switchmode system as in Part 4 of this series.

elementarywatts says: Aug 27, 2009. 7:07 PM REPLY

If I use a bridge rectifier the dc rms output voltage is lower than the input AC voltage. Would I still use the rule to increase the DC V rms measurement by 1.4
for the purpose of determining the amount of leds per string? If I install a capacitor 100uF 200v on the DC side the voltage goes up. Do I need a capacitor?
Would that increase overhead at the line source? Using the same method as you I am making a spotlight with some 400 leds + or - with serial / parallel. If I
do this correctly would I expect the life of the leds to be long as they are rated 100,000 hrs.? Thanks 3.5v 20ma 5mm I would not like a lot of overhead only
to drive these leds.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
 qs says: Aug 27, 2009. 8:39 PM REPLY
Are you saying that by adding a 100uF capacitor the measured voltage goes up? That is probably because you are using a DC voltmeter to measure the
rectified AC. Rectified AC is still sine-wave, so a DC voltmeter will not give you an accurate reading.

The addition of the capacitor forces the LEDs to work continuously and, in circuits involving large number of LEDs, heat becomes a problem. In cases
where the LEDs are of good quality and operated within the rated current, the biggest factor affecting the life of the LED is heat. Ideally, they should
never run over 80oC, but it they are placed close together without ventilation, they could reach over 100oC.

For spotlight use, you may find the 25mA 10mm LEDs, with its tight +/- 6-degree beam-spread more usable.

rob_bisnar says: Aug 9, 2009. 3:24 AM REPLY

Hello qs! its me again. How will you measure the power consumption of this LED series? and How much does each LED consumes in this set-up? thanks in
advance!

qs says: Aug 9, 2009. 1:30 PM REPLY

Since we know that the MAXIMUM current we allow for is 20mA, then the power consumption is under 2.4-watts. Dividing this by the number of LEDs will
give us 57mW per LED for 42 LEDs, or 51mW per for 47.

rob_bisnar says: Jul 28, 2009. 8:07 AM REPLY

Hi qs! I am very thankful for this, it really helps me a lot. I have a question though, you said, the max voltage is about 156V, is this equivalent to the DC
voltage level?

I have arranged a bridge rectifier consists of four 1n4003, I measured its output voltage and the meter reads 105Vdc with measured input of 115Vac. Why is
it the output is not 115*√2= 163V ?

qs says: Jul 28, 2009. 4:10 PM REPLY

The problem with calling what comes out of a full-wave bridge "DC" is the implication that it is the same current as what you might get from batteries.

The real waveform from your bridge, as this image Wikipedia shows is still very much recognisably "AC", except all the sine-waves appear in the same
direction (polarity).

That is why you must add a capacitor to + and - to smooth out the "ripples" before your multimeter can recognize it as true "DC".

rob_bisnar says: Jul 28, 2009. 11:19 PM REPLY

thank you very much for your response. Does it mean that the reading of 105Vdc is the RMS?

qs says: Jul 29, 2009. 3:10 AM REPLY

The meter is expecting a steady input so the reading will depend on the time frame your meter checks to see if the input has changed - the
'Samples/sec' number in the spec sheet.

opliko says: May 10, 2009. 5:11 PM REPLY

So if I were to make this for Higher powered leds, say 1 watt, would it work? Considering they use only slightly higher voltage, in what way could I figure out
the current? I know it wouldn't work out to say 40 instead of 47 LEDs. Just for example lets say it is a 3.7V 350mA LED.

qs says: May 13, 2009. 4:35 PM REPLY

Higher power LEDs can work in this circut as well, as long as the maximum currents are calculated and observed. Of course the sheer number of LEDs
required, at $3-$8 apiece will make the project a bit more expensive. Then we have to worry about the heat generated by such an arrangement - the
'usual' star-type LEDs may have a 'hot' base, and so care must be taken not to short things out - at 150v it would be quite dangerous!

acmefixer says: Jul 12, 2009. 6:54 PM REPLY

"..a bit more expensive." - I like that understatement. Forty-seven 5mm LEDs for $20 something, versus up to $200 for 1 watters..

opliko says: May 13, 2009. 6:43 PM REPLY

Yeah, I realized it would be quite a few, haha. My other question would be, if the rectifier says "200V 1.5A" that means I need to "use up" all 1.5 amps
or I would be over driving them? Last question, since there is only 154(6) volts to work with, would it really matter what the amp rating is?

qs says: May 14, 2009. 7:50 AM REPLY

Voltage and current ratings are given as "do-not-exceed" values. In other words, running your rectifier at 10-volts and 0.1-amp is perfectly fine;
but NEVER go over the limits. Amp x Volt equals power, so, in the rectifier, more amps mean more power-loss, and subsequently, more heat.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
 opliko says: May 14, 2009. 10:24 AM REPLY
Thank You, you have been very helpful with lots of insight into AC led applications. So let me digest this really quick and spew out a circuit
and figures to see if I am correct. If I used the bridge and the switch as in step 5, with 20 leds using 3.3V and 25ma each, would draw 500mA
and 66V. Now with the switch only allowing one side of the AC current through, Would that stress the bridge as much as having the switch in
the on position with both cycles going through? Kind of a stupid question but I like to be clear about things when working with AC especially
high levels of voltage and current.
As for the high powered leds, say you have 4 that draw 350mA, that uses 1400mA total, with only 3.6V x 4 = 14.4V. Leaving 142V x 100ma =
14.2V wasted or dissipated as heat in the rectifier? Thank you again for all your patience.

qs says: May 14, 2009. 1:00 PM REPLY

OK, I see we're treading in dangerous grounds here. It really helps to visualize an electric circuit like water going through a pipe.

Voltage is the pressure of the water, while the Amperage is the amount of water going through the pipe. The two are not interchangeable.

The current throughout the pipe (and circuit) STAYS THE SAME, whether it's gals/minute or electrons, this analogy holds. Meaning the
current flowing through the first LED is identical to the current through the last LED.

What we are doing is reducing the voltage (pressure) by putting LEDs in between. If we know that the LEDs can 'use up' 3.3-volts each,
then we need 154 / 3.3 = 47 of them to make the circuit work. Regardless of whether they are 25mA or 350mA ones, the magic number of
LEDs for this circuit, is 47.

And, because everything is in series (one after another), the 'total' current through them stays at 25mA or 350mA - this is not added.

So, unless there are other 'restricting' elements in the circuit, putting fewer than 47 LEDs will force each LED to work beyond what they
are designed to do. And this will likely burn them up, maybe even literally.

opliko says: May 14, 2009. 3:39 PM REPLY

KK that is why I asked all these questions :). Wasn't sure on AC and bridges and such. Looks like I'll probably be using the DX.com
constant current thing, or the previous step with the capacitors/resistors. Thanks

japanjot says: Jun 8, 2009. 2:25 PM REPLY

in d magic formula 230 * 1.4 / 3.3 , , , , , , 230 is my ac volt, 3.3 is led volt but wot is 1.4 here????? wud b glad if u clear dis to me ...thnx again

qs says: Jun 8, 2009. 4:41 PM REPLY

The value reported for AC power is known as the RMS value, which is lower than the peak value. To find the peak value, you have to multiply by sqrt(2),
or about 1.4

japanjot says: Jun 8, 2009. 10:34 PM REPLY

ohhkkkzzz now i understand,wel u guided me so well, thank u frnd............this means on 230v rms the peak value ud be of 322v................nd one
more thing if i connect 49 led's to the 230v ac,and i include a rectifie of max 400v, wt else wud be required more??? a capacitor??? if yes then plz tell
of wt value.

qs says: Jun 9, 2009. 1:31 PM REPLY

I added step (6) above with the calculation - hope it helps!

japanjot says: Jun 6, 2009. 1:09 PM REPLY

plz help me, m new to this but want to learn alot from you people...... i ant to connect 44 leds in series and want them to work on 230 volts please tell me how
can i without burning these leds nd myself 2 :)

qs says: Jun 7, 2009. 11:46 AM REPLY

For 230v, the 'magic' number of white LEDs is 230 * 1.4 / 3.3 or 98 LEDs.

This is the number of white LEDs (the same type) that you can connect together in series and operate on 230V-AC without needing resistors or
transformers. Just add a suitable bridge rectifier in front.

japanjot says: Jun 8, 2009. 2:21 PM REPLY

well thanks alot bro for ur help, but if u don't mind can u also tell me abot bridge rectifier nd its construction nd values.... thank you

qs says: Jun 8, 2009. 4:59 PM REPLY

A bridge (full wave) rectifier is simply a package of 4 diodes connected so that regardless of which direction (polarity) an AC voltage is, the + and
- always go to separate outputs. Bridge rectifiers have 2 input connections marked (~) and 2 outputs. You have to make sure the specified
voltage is higher than the peak voltage and the amperage is greater than what the LEDs draw. You can also make your own bridge by connecting
4 1N4007-type diodes (400V 1A) like in the diagram below.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
 wkumtrider says: Jun 1, 2009. 8:43 AM REPLY
If I want to run 6 leds off AC, I would need a capacitor to reduce the voltage, correct? What is the best way to calculate the correct type of capacitor? Thanks
for your help.

qs says: Jun 1, 2009. 8:09 PM REPLY

Take a look at the instructions posted here for the correct values.

wkumtrider says: Jun 2, 2009. 6:34 PM REPLY

Thanks qs, but I don't quite understand the formual. It has two variables C and X. I'm not sure how to solve the formula with two variables. I must be
missing some data.

qs says: Jun 3, 2009. 11:13 AM REPLY

X is the resistance (reactance) of capacitor, C.

If we know we need a resistance of 7500-ohms at 50Hz, then the correct capacitor value is:

C= 1/(2 x pi x F x X) = 1 / (2 x 3.1415... x 50 x 7500) = 0.424 uF, with 0.47uF as the nearest standard value.

wkumtrider says: Jun 3, 2009. 11:27 AM REPLY

Ok, thanks so much. Makes sense now.

opliko says: May 13, 2009. 2:03 PM REPLY

Wouldn't 110 times 1.4 be 154? Lol. Sorry I'm just nit picking.

qs says: May 13, 2009. 4:23 PM REPLY

I was using the actual factor of 110 * sqrt(2), which is 1.4142 and so the result is a tad higher than using 1.4.

Good catch...

ferociousllama says: May 1, 2009. 8:25 AM REPLY

What i meant was that I want to make a circuit like the one in part 3 with a rectifier and 42 leds. But I don't want to use that many leds. Is there a way to
make a circuit like that with only say 14 leds? I don't want to use the setup in part 2 becuase I want to try to minimize the number of leds used and maximize
the light output. Thanks.

qs says: May 1, 2009. 8:54 PM REPLY

I think I understand your question now. Yes, you can connect a bridge (of suitable voltage rating) before the dropping capacitor in the circuit in part 2,
then you can connect just one string of LEDs which will run brighter (but not quite double).

ferociousllama says: May 2, 2009. 11:19 AM REPLY

Thank you.

view all 83 comments

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/