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By Tim Gautrey
To clean the water of debris and suspended particles, remove ammonia and nitrites and aerate the water.
Biological. An aquarium filter is a breeding ground for two main types of bacteria. This is not something to worry
about, quite the opposite. The type of bacteria that filters culture is specifically to work on the chemicals that fish
produce through waste. The first type of bacteria breaks down the potentially very poisonous ammonia that fish
produce into less harmful nitrites, and then a second type of bacteria breaks down the nitrites into even less
harmful nitrates. Mechanical. The filters will also remove large suspended particles of debris from the water.
Chemical. Some filters allow the addition of Active Carbon in the form of balls, sheets, wadding or crystals. The
purpose of this is to remove medications and heavy metal traces from the water.
Aquarium filters come in several different forms, from Under-gravel filter trays, through Hang-on-back (HOB)
filters and internal power-head filters to external "Sump" filters. All of them do very similar jobs and all work
well. The main criterion for choosing which filter is best is the size of the tank and the load you are going to put it
under. Let's take them one at a time and explain the benefits and drawbacks for each. I'll start with the cheapest
and work upwards in cost:
Simple Air powered Filters:
Air-box and foam filters, which sucker onto the sides of the tank or just stand on the bottom and contain a filter
media, foam or wadding to hold the bacteria and filter out the large debris. These filters are very cheap, often
costing just a couple of pounds. The principle of filtration is very simple, using an air stream to force the water
through the filter. The principle use for these is in fry breeding, where you need a filter that doesn't cause strong
currents and that won't pull the small fry into the internal workings. They also make ideal backup filters for other
types and can be setup in minutes. You can even make your own filter like this out of bits and pieces you have
laying around! If you have an air pump, you can use this type of filter.
Dis-advantages:
Regular maintenance is a must. These filters can clog up with debris very quickly in heavy load situations.
Not able to handle heavy filtration. These filters are not suitable for tanks where you have diggers, as they clog up
very quickly and are limited on the amount of bacteria they can support. You need an air pump to run them.
Under-gravel Filter:
Out of all of the above, this is my personal favorite. Apart from anything else, it is the cheapest and simplest to
maintain. Over the years, these have become less popular, mainly due to commercialism, not in-effectiveness.
(Retailers make more money by selling more expensive options)
The filter works as follows: It draws water down through the gravel across the entire bottom of the tank through
small slots in the tray and forces the cleaned water back to the top through riser pipes in the corner of the tank
using either an air stone or a power-head. The filtration is done by the gravel removing the larger particles and the
bactreria that lives in the gravel and under the tray removing the harmful ammonia and nitrites. With the Active
Carbon filter attachment fitted to the top of the risers, it will also remove heavy metals and medications from the
water.
Advantages:
It aerates the water by means of the air stone which draws the water up the riser or simply by the disturbance of
the surface in the case of power-heads.
It regulates the water temperature throughout the whole tank, simply by drawing the colder water from the bottom
and pushing it out at the top. With the heater placed beside the riser pipe, this water is heated back up straight
away, giving more even temperatures.
It is flexible. By the addition of another riser pipe, the filter is capable of carrying a much larger bio-load, which is
very helpful for over-stocked tanks. Most trays come with spare riser sockets to add more risers if required.
It is a low-maintenance system. If you are pushed for time, this filter is very forgiving. It won't stop working over
a short period of time and can be left for weeks without any concern. It is safe to use with very small fish. So long
as the riser pipe is above water level this filter is very safe for smaller inhabitants.
It is good in planted tanks. Plants can root through the gravel and into the slots in the tray to get a good hold.
The cost is minimal. these filter trays are by far the cheapest alternative of all the filtration systems.
Disadvantages:
Cleaning: Can be difficult if not carried out regularly. (See the article on UGF cleaning for effective and quick
ways to clean these filters.)
Air Pump: You need an air pump powerful enough to run this filter effectively. It pays to buy a good air pump as
if the pump stops, the filtration stops too.
Substrate: You are restricted with the types of substrate you can use. Gravel is the only effective type of substrate
for this filter. If you want to use sand, don't use this filter!
Efficiency: The filter becomes less effective if not cleaned regularly. By regular, I mean at least every six months,
which is a lot less than other filter types.
Noise: The filter itself is silent, but sometimes the air pump the runs it can be noisy, so and the sound of bubbles
bursting on the surface all the time can get annoying. Careful selection of the pump is very important.
Internal Power-head filters:
By far the most common system used today, these filters come in a range of sizes and shapes to suit most small to
medium sizes tanks. They simply sucker onto the side or back of the tank and connect to mains power. The filter
works through an impeller drawing the water through the filter media and forcing it back into the tank.
Advantages:
Cleaning: The filters simply slide onto a bracket inside the tank, so removal for cleaning is easy. The media is
contained in a removable section of the unit and can be made up of several elements, each one to do specific
tasks. They can contain wadding, foam or crystals or a combination of any of the above. If they use foam pads,
then you simply rinse them out and replace them when necessary, if they contain wadding, this can be rinsed a
few times, but mostly requires replacement each time. Crystals will last for around 4 weeks at a time, then need
replacing.
Noise: Most of these filters run quietly.
Disadvantages:
Looks: The physical size of the filter unit can be a problem if you want to hide it away. As it hangs inside the tank,
it also takes up room and in a small tank, this could be a real nuisance. You need to take care when trying to hide
it behind plants etc, as there must be clear passage for the water, otherwise it just won’t work!
Cleaning: These filters must be cleaned regularly. They will clog up very quickly in high demand areas and
become ineffective very quickly.
Cost: They can be expensive to buy initially, especially the larger ones. The cost of maintenance can be high.
Depending on the type of media used in the filter, it can get expensive to keep replacing media all the time.
Water Currents: The current they create can be a problem. Some fish don’t like strong currents, and these fish do
not do well in tanks with this type of filter. On the other hand, some fish love it! They also create a strong current
at the intake, which can trap or even kill small fish and fry.
HOB or Canister Filters:
Hang on Back or Canister filters are becoming more common these days. I have prouped these two together since
they are essentially very similar in performance and operation. They use two pipes that hang or clip over the back
of the tank and water is pumped through the filter which can be on the back or anywhere away from the tank.
Usually installed in a cupboard under the tank, but also wall-mountable. This type of filter contains lots of
different types of media, depending on the manufacturer. Usually fairly expandable too, so individual choices of
media can be made according to need. The recommendation for this type of filter is that it should be large enough
to circulate ten times the volume of water per hour, which means that a 100 gallon tank requires a filter capable of
moving 1000 gallons per hour!
Advantages:
Power: These filters tend to be very powerful and move a great deal of water, capable of handling high demands
on medium and larger tanks. Some are also adjustable so you control the power it uses. Effectiveness: For diggers
and bottom dwellers they are very effective, since they clean large amounts of water very quickly. On most tanks
where these filters are fitted, they give crystal-clear water all the time.
Visability: They are easy to hide away, since it is only the two pipes that enter the tank, and these are easy to
disguise.
Current: These units create a really strong current from both ends. The intake needs a good pre-filter fitted to stop
the inhabitants being drawn in and the outlet creates a very strong circulation in the tank which is perfect for some
fish, but not so good for others.
Disadvantages:
Cleaning: Can be difficult to clean and some need to be primed before they work. There have also been reports of
flooding during the cleaning process, as when installed below the tank water level they can act as a siphon if the
valves are not closed properly. Not so prone to clogging as they use lots of media.
Cost: These are very expensive units, and maintenance costs can be high too, depending on the type you buy. The
recommendations tend to insist on a much larger unit than you would expect to need. Noise: They can be quite
noisy, the HOB filters especially, but canister filters can be installed away from the tank, this means that they can
be put in another room if necessary.
Sumps:
Although these are not necessarily the most expensive to buy, I have put them last because they are by far the
most adaptable, but need a lot of skill and patience to set up, and the cost is totally dependant on what you use.
A sump is a separate tank, usually a small 20 - 30 gallon fish tank, split into compartments for various uses. A
sump is completely adaptable to suit individual requirements, and there are no real guidelines for this. Examples
can range from a simple multi-stage filter, through internal heaters, live plants, biological additives, the list is
almost endless.
Mainly fitted to the larger tanks, care needs to be taken in the planning, location, building and use intended. Most
sumps are purely DIY and usually only attempted by experienced aquarists. Unless you have a real need for this
type of filter, stay away from it!
What Is Filtration?
Filtration is a process involving mechanical, biological and chemical means to remove organic pollutive elements
and other toxins that are present in an aquarium (Or other enclosed aquatic environment containing living
organisms). A build up of liquid and solid fish waste primarily causes this pollution.
Mechanical filtration. Water is drawn through holes in the canister and passes through the sponge inside so
trapping small particulate waste. The benefit over traditional under gravel filters is that this waste is removed from
the aquarium entirely when the foam is cleaned. You will be amazed at how much waste is removed by the foam.
Biological filtration. The bio-foam has a large surface area which becomes colonized by aerobic bacteria on its
external and internal surfaces. The bacteria consume Ammonia, the most toxic component of fish waste,
converting it into Nitrite (No2). Other bacteria also present convert the Nitrite into Nitrate (No3) which is a less
toxic organic compound(s) and is subsequently removed by regular water changes and can also be absorbed by
other filter media (See chemical filtration below). This process is known as the “Nitrite Cycle”.
Chemical filtration (Not available with all filters). Many filters have a plastic core that is situated within the
center of the bio-foam or other separate section. If present, this core or other section can be filled with absorptive
filter media so providing chemical filtration. Media suitable are Zeolites (Sometimes called Ammonia Remover)
and Activated Carbon. These materials polish the water removing organic toxins that cannot otherwise be
removed by the filter unit.
Additionally the water flow provided by the pump circulates the aquarium water and if positioned close to the
water surface (Approximately 1cm ( ½”) below water surface) increases the Oxygen content as the water surface
is rippled so increasing the surface area available for Oxygen absorption and other gaseous exchange
STEP 1. Bio-foam maintenance. Before carrying out any maintenance on the filter unit always disconnect from
the mains electrical supply.
On average, the filter Bio-foam will need cleaning every 2 to 4 weeks. If the foam clogs up quicker than this
(Evident by a much reduced flow from the pump unit) you are probably overstocked (Either in quantity or
physical size of fish), or are overfeeding.
Following manufacturers instructions for the particular filter, remove the Bio-foam. Squeeze the foam clean in
waste aquarium water NOT tap water. If the foam is cleaned in tap water the beneficial bacteria it contains are
killed, dramatically reducing the efficiency of the filter. For this reason it is best to carry out the filter cleaning
operation together with the regular water change which should be carried out, on an average aquarium, on a 2 to 4
week cycle. Recommended water change is 15 to 20% of aquarium volume. Some systems such as Discus and
Marine may require larger changes and/or greater frequency. See “ How to maintain a Tropical/Coldwater/Marine
aquarium”)
STEP 2. Motor unit maintenance. Before carrying out any maintenance on the motor unit always disconnect
from the mains electrical supply.
The motor unit is the top part of the filter. It will usually separate easily from the canister beneath which contains
the Bio-foam. Refer to manufacturers specific instructions if unsure. In the centre of the motor unit is the drive
part that is made up of a cylindrical magnet attached to radiating plastic tines looking something like a little
propeller. This is known as the impellor. Remove the impellor and clean off any sludge or other attached debris.
Clean out the cavity into which the impellor sits. Replace and re-assemble. It is important to do this on an average
system about every three months minimum. Failure to clean the impellor will create excessive load on the motor
unit and reduce the life of the filter.
STEP 3. Improving performance. Regular maintenance as described above will ensure maximum efficiency but
the performance of the filter unit can be further enhanced by addition of Bio agents. These are usually in liquid or
powder form and contain beneficial bacteria which, when added, boost the ability of the filter to consume waste.
The UK’s best selling additive is “Cycle” by Hagen but most companies produce an alternative, many of which
are featured on this website. These agents are highly recommended.
Much physically larger than Internal Power filters they are able to hold a great deal more filter media and,
therefore, process more waste so ensuring the provision of better water conditions.
The motor units are more powerful and able to deliver a higher, more consistent flow rate.
Several types of filter media can be contained within the canister so the aquarium water can benefit from multi
process treatment, biological, mechanical and chemical filtration. Some internal filters can also offer multi
treatment but they are limited by the volume of media that can be contained. Additionally, material can be
included to specifically alter the water chemistry such as peat extracts for Discus aquaria.
Because the filter contains more media, which will be able to trap, as well as process large amounts of waste, the
periods between essential maintenance are reduced.
As the whole unit is situated external to the aquarium, either underneath or to one side so there is less equipment
visible inside the aquarium.
External canister filters are well worth the extra outlay and are highly recommended by Lifeforceonline.
Activated Carbon
For many years, carbon has been used as an agent to remove impurities from air and water. Activated carbon is
one of the most effective absorbents currently used. Activated carbon is carbon which has a positive charge added
to it, which makes it much more effective at absorbing impurities and chemicals. An activated carbon filter works
by the law of attraction. When water passes over the positively charged carbon, the impurities in the water which
have a negative charge will be locked into the activated carbon filter.
Usually activated carbon filters use either granular activated carbon or powdered block carbon. Both types of
filters are effective, however the powdered block carbon filters do tend to remove more impurities than its
counterpart.
The efficiency of activated carbon filters are dependant on two factors. First, the amount of activated carbon
which is contained in the filter and second, the amount of time the impurities stay in contact with the carbon. Of
course the more carbon there is in the filter, the better it will do its job. Contact time of the impurities and the
carbon can be affected by the flow rate of the water, thus slower running water is best.
The more carbon you have, the better your results will be. If you set your water to a lower flow rate, the carbon
will have more time in contact with the water contaminants, enabling the carbon to absorb the contaminants much
better.
When you purchase your activated carbon filter, keep in mind that they are rated based upon the average size of
the particles they are able to remove, the most effective one being rated at 0.5 microns. The least effective
activated carbon filter you can buy is rated at 50 microns.
Most counter top activated carbon filter systems contain between twelve and twenty-four ounces of actual carbon.
There are three main carbon types that can be used for the purpose of water filtration: coconut shell, wood, and
bituminous carbons. The most expensive of the three is the coconut shell carbon; however, it has been proven to
be the best out of the three types.
Activated carbon is able to remove contaminants from your fish tank via two different methods, either through
absorbing the contaminants, or through catalytic reduction, in which the negative ions contained in the
contaminant are drawn to the positive ions that make up the carbon. Generally, organic particles can be removed
via absorption, while chemical contaminants, such as chlorine, are removed by catalytic reduction.
Many home water purifying systems use activated carbon filtration. Activated carbon filtration helps to remove
the chemical bad taste from your tap water, absorbs unpleasant odors, and takes out many of the chemicals used in
the water treatment process, such as chlorine. It also helps to remove many organic water contaminants as well.
Activated carbon filters can also help remove many of the heavy metal compounds that are found in your tap
water. Some more expensive activated carbon filters have been proven effective at removing some of the iron,
hydrogen sulfide, and manganese that live in tap water.
There are some inorganic particles that cannot be absorbed by activated carbon filters, such as arsenic, asbestos,
cadmium, chromium, copper, fluoride, thallium, and mercury. To remove these kinds of contaminants you have to
have either a reverse osmosis filter system or a water distiller.
Adding a sediment filter can help make your activated carbon cartridge last much longer as it removes larger
particles that can possibly cause a clog, limiting the effectiveness of your activated carbon. To remove large
quantities of sediment, you should consider using a carbon block filter rather than an activated carbon filter.
The good thing is that you don’t have to do very much maintenance for your activated carbon filter, other than
make certain it gets replaced as needed. To prevent your water quality from being effected, make sure that you
change the filter promptly as recommended by the manufacturer.
Filtration over activated carbon can prove useful in the long term to treat water containing high concentrations
of undesirable substances like chlorine, chloramines, alum, phenols and insecticides and pesticides. Reverse
osmosis systems are usefully coupled with activated carbon pre-filters. Used in conjunction, they eliminate
chlorinated by-products than can damage the membrane. However, they are not very effective in the removal of
nitrogenous by-products. Only the rigorous upkeep of biological filters and efficient biological filtration can
help eliminate ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
The Negative Impact of Activated Carbon Activated carbon can be criticized for its inability to differentiate
between “good” and “bad” molecules. It also fails to retain important trace minerals, including those needed by
many hard water fish species and many plants. In reality, the adsorption power of activated carbon is dependent
upon the different parameters (e.g. pH of the water) or the chemical form under which the element in question is
found. The power of adsorption is limited and it losses its fixation capacity after several days, once it has
become saturated. Even worse, it may then release the molecules it had previously extracted back into the water.
Therefore, it must be replaced frequently; frequency being dependent on the saturation or concentration level of
undesirable elements in the aquarium.