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spring/summer
2010
Spring fashion typically gets short shrift compared to the winter season. Warm
weather doesn’t require heavy duty fabrications and endless accessories that
garner so much editorial ink. But without being hemmed in by the need to
ward off hostile weather, spring and summer fashion offer plenty of room
to play with color, texture and lightweight layering—all the little details that
make a big difference.
Our overview of the season’s key collections shows that there’s plenty of rea-
son to get excited about the new crop of fashions soon to arrive in stores. Let
the following rundown of spring’s top trends serve as preparation to narrow
your shopping list.
WHITE NOW
Color, or rather its absence, was a noticeable element in many collec-
tions. All-white looks opened several runway presentations. While the bold
(and neat) might venture to try wearing white head-to-toe, the rest will be
pleased to find that a single burst of bright white is all that’s necessary to
make an entrance.
IN THE TRENCHES
It’s hard to think of a single piece of clothing that’s more iconic than the
trench coat. Yes, it’s practical, but also supremely elegant and just a bit
mysterious. There are so many options to choose from this season that now
is the time to invest in one or add to your existing collection, especially in
leather or an offbeat color.
NAVAL GAZING
Designers have been especially maritime-minded lately. Whether through
symbols, like anchors and regatta flags, or classic colors that signal naval
associations, many brands incorporated perennially popular sea motifs into
their collections.
SHORTS STORY
No man should be shy about showing off his legs this season. Shorts trooped
down so many runways that the look is sure to translate to reality. Super skimpy
versions have disappeared in favor of options that are full enough to be forgiving.
ATHLETIC INSPIRATIONS
If designers have their way you may be sporting their high-priced wares to
the athletic fields. Luxe interpretations of gym class favorites—sweats, an-
oraks, and sneakers—appeared at every turn. Grown-ups who are still kids
at heart will surely embrace the look’s relaxed luxury.
CLASSICAL STUDIES
Spring 2010 has been a season of wearable, desirable clothes instead of
out-there statements. Traditionalists will find plenty of reworked versions
of classic pieces to stoke excitement to get shopping. Top-notch tailoring
had a huge presence with just enough updates to tried-and-true formulas
to make getting the right suit relevant again.
Collection Highlight
Classic, generation-spanning creations
are Asprey’s signature. The principle
applies to everything it offers, from
exquisite fine jewelry and watches, to
goods for the home, to perfectly-wrought
leather goods. The Bond Attaché, a roomy
briefcase lined in the brand’s trademark
purple and boasting the perfect quantity
of compartments, is a prime example of
Asprey’s penchant for combining prac-
ticality with notes of whimsy and style.
(Bond Attaché in black lido calf, $3,950).
asprey
No brand is more thoroughly British than Asprey. Since the 18th century it has outfitted royals and aristocracy from around
the world with custom-made luxuries and keeps current with contemporary collaborations like its latest jewelry collection
with Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt.
aquascutum
Proudly made in England since 1851, Aquascutum is a master of the trench coat. The extent of the brand’s respect for quality
extends to tiny details that make a big difference, including hand pressing each component of a trench coat before it’s assembled
to ensure perfect stitching.
bally
Under the creative direction of Brian Atwood—best-known for the lust-inspiring stilettos of his eponymous women’s line—this
nearly 160-year-old label puts a new spin on old classics. Specializing in must-have items like trench coats, sleek suits and of
course, amazing shoes, the overall effect is decidedly chic, not to mention masculine.
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at the Bally boutique in Beverly Hills.
Corporate Contact: Jason Schmidt, (310) 271-3310. Visit www.bally.com.
Collection Highlight
Trademark pieces from Belvest include
unstructured, unlined jackets in light-
weight wool or cashmere. The garments
strike the perfect balance between ease
and elegance and make perfect traveling
companions; they emerge from suitcases
unscathed and ready for wear no matter
how rough the journey. A growing part of
the Belvest portfolio is casual sportswear.
Look out for playful denim in a complete
menu of sugary shades. It’s a smart play
to introduce new customers to the brand
and excite long-time fans with a hit of
bright color. (Single-breasted black wool
suit with miniature dot design, $2,970;
grey stripe cotton shirt and black dotted
silk tie, both price available upon request).
BELVEST
Masters of perfectly finished wardrobe staples, the artisans at Belvest produce beautifully fitting garments of stunning craftsmanship.
A combination of first-rate textiles developed through exacting research and painstaking details that extend to handmade
buttonholes and cuffs define the brand’s supreme quality.
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at the Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers store in New York.
Corporate Contact: Edward Sadovnika, (212) 929-2763. Visit www.brooksbrothers.com.
Collection Highlight
After seasons of quiet collections in
comforting monochromatic palettes,
Bottega Veneta’s spring 2010 collection
featured confident blasts of bright color.
Shots of lilac, mandarin and cherry struck
a strong contrast against khaki, olive and
chocolate. Casual selections included
varsity-style jackets stripped of their tra-
ditional bulk and done in buttery leather,
torso-hugging cardigans in featherweight
cashmere and cotton jackets and pants
in micro butterfly and maple leaf prints.
Suiting with seriously structured sartorial
shoulders may have felt extreme in fire-
engine red, but the jackets felt fresh and
pitch-perfect paired with stiff indigo jeans
and checked shirts.
bottega veneta
Tomas Meier’s work at Bottega Veneta is associated with pared-down, almost austere luxury, but for spring
things let loose with flashes of blazing color, bohemian tie-dye, and whimsical prints.
brioni
Brioni’s spring 2010 collection holds to its roots in classic Italian tailoring but with a leisurely new attitude and a heightened
emphasis on elegant sportswear.
brunello cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli’s always assured combination of lived-in knits and com-
fortably tailored pieces ensures its customer never appears to be trying too
hard. There’s no need to in body-skimming garments made from the very best
cashmere, cotton and linen you’re likely to find.
calvin klein
Calvin Klein Creative Director Italo Zucchelli is always forward-thinking without being inscrutable. The designer knows how to
tweak traditional pieces in wearable new ways. Transparency, technical fabrics and pops of color animate one of spring’s best
collections.
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Calvin Klein boutiques and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York.
Corporate Contact: Eva Baud, (212) 292-9000. Visit www.calkinklein.com.
Collection Highlight
(Left: Two-button linen-cotton Kei jacket,
$1,295; pure linen cotton trousers, $250;
pure linen shirt, $295; calfskin belt,
$195; striped linen-silk scarf, $195; soft
calfskin moccasins, $595; linen canvas
handbag, $695. Right: Double-breasted
iridescent pure linen suit, $1,695; pure
linen shirt, $295; silk tie, $125; calfskin
derby shoes, $595).
Canali
After 75 years of being at the top of the tailoring business, Canali has plenty to celebrate. Its blockbuster anniversary runway show
had a triumphant spirit that touched on its classics with a fresh outlook.
cesare paciotti
Cesare Paciotti’s range of footwear, handbags, eyewear and jewelry tempers provocative and fashion-forward designs with exqui-
site craftsmanship. More than just a flash in the pan, these accessories strike the right balance between envelope-pushing and
elegant, kind of like the stylish celebrities—among them John Legend and Justin Timberlake—who covet them.
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Cesare Paciotti boutiques in New York, Beverly Hills and Bal Harbour.
Corporate Contact: Cinzia Bernasconi, (212) 245-1409; cinzia@cesare-paciotti.us. Visit www.cesare-paciotti.com.
Collection Highlight
The process of creating each Church’s
shoe is a laborious one involving more
than 250 different steps that can take up
to eight weeks to complete. Using Good-
year construction, the brand focuses on
producing variations on styles that will
undeniably be worn centuries from now:
Loafers, brogues, oxfords and boots.
Keeping the collection fresh comes
from subtle tweaks to scale and color.
The spring collection focuses on soft,
natural hues to give the styles a lighter
touch. To complement the footwear that
has earned the brand renown, a small
range of accessories has been added to
the Church’s lineup, including totes in
tumbled leather and even a dapper rain
jacket. (Left: Girth bag, $255. Below:
Bradfield shoe, $465).
CHURCH’S
Staunchly proud of its English heritage, Church’s was founded in Northampton in 1873 by a family that produced men’s shoes
since the 17th century. Never interested in chasing trends, Church’s focus has always been on values that never date—quality,
reliability and comfort.
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at the Church’s boutique in New York.
Corporate Contact: Dominick Lauria, (212) 307-9300; dominick.lauria@prada.com. Visit www.church-footwear.com.
Collection Highlight
Cufflinks are Deakin & Francis’ signa-
ture. It boasts an inventory that tops
1,000 styles ranging from accessible
offerings in sterling silver to intricate
creations heaped with precious stones.
The brand has cornered the market on
fanciful, cheeky cufflinks: It boasts skulls
with eyes that pop as its jaw opens and
shuts, a menagerie of animals and em-
blems that represent every conceivable
hobby. For those who can’t find the
perfect statement to accent a sleeve
among the existing (and ever-growing)
catalog, there’s always the option of a be-
spoke masterpiece created to one’s own
specifications.
dunhill
Steeped in a rich heritage of fine English craftsmanship, Dunhill deftly navigates modern sensibilities while maintaining the quality in
menswear and accessories that’s the foundation of its sterling reputation.
ermenegildo zegna
With its spring collection, Ermenegildo Zegna proves that elegance doesn’t have to be uptight. Dusky, retro-influenced color and
slouchy tailored pieces make suiting look just as comfortable as the brand’s luxuriously easygoing sportswear.
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Ermenegildo Zegna boutiques, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, select Neiman Marcus,
Saks Fifth Avenue, Barney’s New York and Bloomingdale’s department stores, and specialty boutiques.
Corporate Contact: Franco Salhi, (212) 421-4488. Visit www.zegna.com.
Collection Highlight
Two styles stand out at the heart of the
Fratelli Rossetti spring line-up. The first
is the laced oxford with a slightly rounded
toe. The most luxurious version of the style
is one that combines three exotic skins on
a single shoe: Lizard, croc and python.
There are also versions in woven suede,
a technique strongly associated with the
label, plus traditional vintage nappa.
fratelli rossetti
Family-run Fratelli Rossetti confidently revisits the archive that made it one of the top artisan brands in the world. Its vintage
designs and updated classics are failsafe choices to complete a timeless wardrobe.
gucci
With a mix of influences as disparate as Oscar Niemeyer’s mid-century architecture and traditional Persian weaving, Frida
Giannini gave Gucci’s spring collection eclectic energy and far-reaching appeal.
harrys of london
Harrys of London stresses scrupulous craftsmanship with a dapper, sporty edge—the product of American and English
approaches to shoe construction. Comfort, longevity and uncompromising style unite a collection that spans from oxfords to
camouflage-covered mocs.
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Mojito’s in the Wynn Las Vegas Casino & Resort.
Corporate Contact: Julia Rogers, (212) 217-2745; jrogers@harrysoflondon.com. Visit www.harrysoflondon.com.
Collection Highlight
The look at Hermès consisted of classic
pieces tinged with a languid bohemian
sensibility. Oversized knits, cotton trou-
sers worn long and baggy or cuffed and
cropped and blousy button-front shirts
looked like the wardrobe of a well-heeled
Sorbonne student on holiday. Designer
Véronique Nichanian went with a palette
of smoky blue, chocolate, olive and russet
throughout—strong neutrals that don’t
just fade into the background. The brand’s
long history of manipulating leather
means it leads the pack when it comes
to producing exquisite garments from the
material. Shirt jackets, unbulky bombers,
hip-slung belts, and slipper soft loafers
practically glowed with a warm sheen that
will only improve with age.
Hermès of Paris
Hermès has come a long way from its origins as a saddle maker serving aristocracy nearly two centuries ago. Now the label is
at the vanguard of producing understated clothes that exude permanent luxury over passing flash.
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at the BOSS Store in New York.
Corporate Contact: Richard Presser, (212) 940-0639; richard_presser@hugoboss.com. Visit www.hugoboss.com.
Collection Highlight
Frequently Paul & Shark introduces
items that reflect its expert fabric
research. This season the Niagara
jacket, made of incredibly supple rub-
ber, demonstrates the brand’s capac-
ity to develop beautiful clothing that
stands up to tough treatment. The
rest of the collection stresses the
importance of the polo shirt in col-
ors like yellow, royal, pink and violet,
plus striped varieties emblazoned
with decorative crests, block print and
the like. Yachting collection sweat-
ers capture the brand’s outdoorsy
outlook with a slightly dressier feel.
(On model: Typhoon silk jacket, $595;
striped cotton polo, $295; 5-pocket
yachting pant, $179; cotton and leath-
er sneaker, $409; canvas messenger
bag, $369).
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Paul & Shark stores in New York, Bal
Harbour, Beverly Hills, Sausalito and Short Hills, New Jersey.
Corporate Contact: Glenn Pennell, (212) 452-9868; madison@paulsharkusa.net.
Visit www.paulshark.it.
Collection Highlight
Kiton’s CI.PA. jacket has been reintro-
duced for spring. First created by Kiton
founder Ciro Paone in the 1960s, its navy
blue color, peaked lapel and checked
linen lining encapsulate Kiton’s mastery
of classicism with a unique spirit. The
brand’s range is so broad that it’s unlikely
that it would be difficult to find whatever
whim comes to mind. And bespoke ser-
vices are available to create the suit of
one’s dreams.
KITON
No one beats Naples-based Kiton when it comes to knockout fabrics and exquisite construction. The brand is one of the undisputed
leaders in head to toe dressing. Beyond superior suits, the collection includes knits, sportswear and leather goods from shoes to
luggage.
Loro Piana
Essentially synonymous with cashmere, Loro Piana has flourished as six generations of its namesake family have mastered the
art of creating superior luxury fabrics, which often requires going to the ends of the Earth in the process: Loro Piana is one of the
few companies in the world to offer garments in rare Andean vicuña and Mongolian baby cashmere.
louis vuitton
The quintessential French luxury brand, Louis Vuitton never fails to produce iconic pieces that will feel desirable now and always.
The ultimate trench, anorak and bomber jacket were the backbone of a stellar spring collection.
pringle of scotland
With origins dating back to 1815, Pringle of Scotland is one of the world’s first luxury knitwear labels, having paved the way for “knitwear
as outerwear” in the 1870s with their trend-setting cashmere garments. Nearly two centuries later, the brand that pioneered such
wardrobe staples as argyle patterns and twinsets continues to deliver classics with an instant, and enduring, appeal.
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren is the imitable king of haute American style in all its guises. From East Coast preppy to rugged cowboy chic, Ralph
Lauren hones the highlights of the country’s key looks in covetable new incarnations from season to season.
santoni
There’s no mistaking a Santoni shoe, whether it’s a handmade oxford or a playful sport shoe. With reverence for tradition and main-
taining exceptional quality, Santoni advances its art with shoes that are both modern and timeless.
zilli
Zilli specializes in money-is-no-object luxury sportswear. Founded in 1970, and still family-run, the brand is the place to indulge
a passion for exuberantly refined fashion, from outerwear to accessories.