Hiroshi Iwata •

Kunio Shimada

Formulas, Ingredients
and Production of Cosmetics

Technology of Skin- and Hair-Care

Products in Japan

^ Springer
Contents

Part I Ingredients and Productions of Cosmetics

1 Developing the Formulations of Cosmetics 3

1.1 Classification and Categories of Cosmetics 3
1.1.1 Parts of the Body '. 4
1.1.2 Efficacies and Effects 4
1.1.3 Purpose of Use 4
1.1.4 Method of Use 6
1.1.5 Properties and Product Forms 6
1.2 Constituents of Cosmetics 6
1.2.1 Ingredients for Giving the Product Form 6
1.2.2 Ingredients for Stabilizing the Products 7
1.2.3 Ingredients for Giving Efficacies,
Effects, and Concepts 7
1.2.4 Ingredients Acting on the Senses of Users 7
1.3 Categories of Cosmetics and Product Forms 8
1.3.1 Toilet Soaps and Cleansers 8
1.3.2 Shampoos 8
1.3.3 Conditioners 8
1.3.4 Creams 10
1.3.5 Leave-on Hair Care Products 10
1.3.6 Cosmetics Mainly Consisting of Oil 10
1.3.7 Facial Toner 11
1.4 Points to Note for Using Ingredients in Cosmetics 13

2 Raw Materials of Cosmetics 21

2.1 Oils 21
2.1.1 Hydrocarbons 22
2.1.2 Vegetable Oils and Fats 25
2.1.3 Waxes 27

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X Contents

2.1.4 Esters 32
2.1.5 Higher Alcohols 34
2.1.6 Fatty Acids 36
2.1.7 Silicones 39

2.2 Surfactants 39
2.2.1 Anionic Surfactants 40
2.2.2 Cationic Surfactants 50

2.2.3 Tertiary Amines 55

2.2.4 Amphoteric Surfactants 57
2.2.5 Nonionic Surfactants 60

2.3 Polymers 67
2.3.1 Structure of Polymers 67
2.3.2 Purposes of Using Polymers 68

2.3.3 Dissolving Polymers 76

2.4 Glycols 77
2.4.1 Kinds of Glycols 78

2.4.2 Purposes of Using Glycols 78

2.5 Other Ingredients 80
2.5.1 Ingredients for Giving Efficacies, Effects, and Concepts 80
2.5.2 Coloring Agents 81
2.5.3 Scenting Agents 81

2.5.4 Ingredients for Stabilizing Products 81

References 86

3 Emulsions 87
3.1 Designing the Formulations of Emulsions 87
3.1.1 Formulation of Emulsifiers 88

3.1.2 Selecting Surfactants 89

3.1.3 Selecting Oily Constituents 91

3.2 Factors Affecting Viscosity and Stability
and Preventive Measures 94
3.2.1 Separation and Viscosity Increase
atHigh Temperatures 94

3.2.2 Separation and Viscosity Increase

at the Room Temperature 94

3.2.3 Effects of Salts '. 95

3.2.4 Factors Causing Destabilization of Emulsions 97
3.3 Emulsification 98

3.3.1 Emulsification Method 98

3.3.2 Emulsification Device 99

3.3.3 Conditions of Emulsification 99

Reference 102

4 Sensory Properties of Cosmetics 103

4.1 Expressions of Sensory Properties :..
103
4.1.1 Classification of Expressions 104
Contents x'

4.1.2 Favored Senses 104

4.2 Sensory Evaluation 105
4.2.1 Points to Note in Human Sensory Evaluation 105

4.3 Sensory Properties of Alkyl Groups 108

4.3.1 Sensory Properties of Oils 108
4.3.2 Sensory Properties of Surfactants 109
4.3.3 Sensory Properties of Glycols 110

Part II Formulas and Productions of Cosmetics

5 Practice of Designing Cosmetics Formulations 113

5.1 Soaps and Cleansers 114

5.1.1 Combinations of Ingredients and Products 114

5.1.2 Toilet Soaps 114

5.1.3 Cream Soaps 115

5.1.4 Liquid Soaps 115

5.1.5 Viscous Soaps 117

5.1.6 Cleansing Cosmetics i 118

5.2 Shampoos 120

5.2.1 Purposes of Shampoo Formulation and Constituents 120

5.2.2 Anionic Surfactants 121

5.2.3 Amphoteric Surfactants 122

5.2.4 Cationic Polymers 122

5.2.5 Pearlizing Agents 126

5.2.6 Influence of Salts 130

5.2.7 Thickeners and Bubble Stabilizers ,

130
5.2.8 Ingredients for Improving the Feel of Use 130

5.2.9 Efficacious Components and

Conceptual Components 131

5.2.10 Stabilizers, Preservatives, and

Acidity Regulators 131
5.2.11 Sensory Evaluation of Shampoo 131

5.2.12 Methods of Adding Scenting Agents 132

5.2.13 Designing Shampoo Formulations 132

5.3 Hair Conditioners 139

5.3.1 Sensory Characteristics of Conditioners 139

5.3.2 Adjusting the Viscosity of Conditioners 140
5.3.3 Basic Prescriptions and Constituents 141

5.3.4 Sensory Evaluation 148

5.3.5 Prescriptions of Conditioners of Various Sensory
Characteristics 153
5.4 Skin Creams 157
5.4.1 Constituents of Skin Creams 157

5.4.2 of Oily Constituents 157

Investigation
5.4.3 Selection of Emulsifiers 159

5.4.4 Addition of Polymers 163

5.4.5 Selection of Glycols 164
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5.4.6 Formulation of Low-Viscosity Creams 164

5.4.7 Formulation of Gel Creams 165
5.4.8 Formulation of Massage Creams 166
5.5 Leave-On Hair Care Cosmetics 167
5.5.1 Hair Creams 167
5.5.2 Cationic Hair Conditioners 171
5.5.3 Hair Waxes 173
5.5.4 Hair Gels 181
5.5.5 Hair Mist Liquids 192
5.5.6 Hair Oils 198
5.6 Cosmetics Mainly Consisting of Oils 200
5.6.1 Characteristics and Techniques
for Designing Formulations 200

5.6.2 Liquid Oil Cosmetics 201

5.6.3 Solid and Stick-Type Cosmetics 204
5.7 Facial Toner 208
5.7.1 Sensory Characteristics of Facial Toner 208
5.7.2 Safety of Ingredients 208
5.7.3 Properties and Constituents of Facial Toner 209
5.8 Cosmetics not Containing Specific Ingredients 211
5.8.1 Transparent Shampoo Consisting of Ingredients
of Vegetable Origin 212
5.8.2 Pearl Shampoo Not Containing Sodium
Laureth Sulfate 213
5.8.3 Shampoo Not Causing Buildup of Hair 214
5.8.4 Hair Conditioner Not Containing
Specific Ingredients 214

5.8.5 Cream Using Food Additives as Surfactants 215

5.8.6 Gel Cream Not Containing Specific Ingredients 216

Index 219