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bigclivedotcom
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With the increasing popularity of the mini lithium jump starters
for cars, there seem to be some standard components
appearing. One of them is this set of plug-in leads with that
mysterious little box on one of them. So here's what's inside.
I've not taken a look at a jump starters yet as I don't have a
load high enough to test them to their often dubious
specifications. Note that there were two types of package in
the unit, one with a rating of 40V and one 45V. Jerry Korner
has done some tests though, so here's a link to one of his test
videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRyU5... It
appears that there has been a recall on some of these leads
due to the exact scenario I described of overcranking and
causing the diodes to fail short circuit, followed by rapid failure
of the lithium pack. http://www.cyntur.com/recall If you enjoy
these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar
for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
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ghoztmodeHace 1 año
Ok that's actually funny. thanks for sharing. :)
28
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Inductor87Hace 1 año
was it dead inside?
15
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Stefan F.Hace 1 año
Hehe
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dfghjkuytrHace 1 año
Did you get to jump anyone?
13
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TheOtherWhiteBread0Hace 1 año
Lol wtf
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MasterYoshidinoHace 1 año
This reply thread is so shorted...
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TheOtherWhiteBread0Hace 1 año
@MasterYoshidino chyeah broo. So sHorT3d.
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racpa5Hace 11 meses
I find this comment revolting.
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ColaHace 2 días
Lovely!
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MasterBataHace 2 años
In case anyone was let down by jumper cables they sell at gas
stations and supermarkets (those that have far more insulation than
actual copper), here is a recipe for cheap yet indestructible jumper
cables: - buy 4 welder ground clamps. Those are very robust and are
usually rated for 300A+ - buy 4 lug connectors - buy 6 meters of
25mm^2 welder ground cable (or thicker). You will make two 3m
cables out of this, buy more if you need longer. This type of cable is
very soft even in low temperatures. - split cable in half, crimp or
solder lug connectors onto cable, connect to clamps -
congratulations, you have jumper cables that can start a diesel truck.
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80
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RubenyoranpcHace 11 meses
Youtube, can we get a feature to save comments like these please?
Thanks
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btcsysHace 10 meses
I don't have a diesel truck
1
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Caterpillar CATHace 6 meses
Diesel v16 its work or not ( voltage 24v)
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trisymphonyHace 2 años
3:40 what a beautiful soldering job
41
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Ocultar 4 respuestas
Da veHace 1 año
Behave it's like a hamster turning the London eye lmfao
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radry100Hace 2 años
No magic smoke? I'm disappointed
65
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bigclivedotcom
Hace 2 años
There will be lots of unexpected smoke and flames in the next video.
9
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superhandsHace 2 años
Clive did you get a new microphone?
1
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MrKnowwunHace 2 años
I shall be very upset now if there isn't.
2
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dossodHace 2 años
connect the lead across a big battery 800+ cca and then there will be
magic smoke
1
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MagesticHace 1 año
We want smoke! We want smoke!
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MagesticHace 1 año
@bigclivedotcom it's not unexpected if you plan it & tell us about it!
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bami2Hace 2 años
small thermonuclear fusion reactor
4
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kuhrdHace 2 años
For continuous current with PVC insulation yes, 10 gauge is only
safe for around 30 Amps continuous. The big thing to consider here
is resistance and voltage drop. Since the leads are about 1 foot long
each you can actually push a few hundred amps through them for a
short time. High strand silicone insulated wire that is 10 gauge is
generally capable of 140Amps when leads are kept to a meter (about
3 ft) or less for 15 minutes duty cycle in 20C ambient air. In a
situation like starting a car where the leads are only connected for 60
seconds or so and the actual cranking time is likely less than a few
seconds, you could probably dump around 500Amps across the
cable without to much issue seeing a voltage drop of likely less than
1.5-3V.
64
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superdauHace 2 años
Assigning a current rating to a wire without environmental
conditions is pointless. If you put that wire in ice water it will have
no problem conducting hundred amps continuously. If you run it at
50°C ambient without air flow it will melt the insulation at much
less than 30 amps. A few hundred amps are fine as well without ice
water if it's just a very short time/pulse.
13
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Jusb1066Hace 2 años
them being short means more than 30a, cable rated at hundred of
amps and is say 2 meteres long, such as my home made jump lead,
are very thick and heavy, made from industrial welding cable, rated
for 500a, and 5x heavier than cheap jump leads that say 500a
2
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SillyhatdayHace 2 años
Yep. Check with the manufacturer of whatever cable your using for
the proper rating. I've seen many current ratings for an ambient
temperature of 85c.
1
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Dad_a_MonkHace 2 años
Stinky Cheese Actually, he used the word actually properly. He
explained that the 10 gauge wire, in question, is capable of more
than 30 amps. So how was he wrong to use it, in your opinion?
3
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Teardown DanHace 2 años
Pretty sure. There is no need to put multiple cells in parallel, LiPo
batteries can output over 200A on their own - radio-control hobby
batteries have discharges rates as high as 250C, which means over
750A for a stack of 3Ah cells. Here's my tear-down and poking
around of that PB06:
http://www.tomshardware.com/picturestory/751-silverstone-pb06-
usb-power-bank-tear-down.html
1
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toysareforboysHace 2 años
My ignition stops working at 9 volts. I know it's exactly that because
my stereo system draws so much current it drops down to there
before the car stalls :( 2007 Chevy Cobalt SS/SC
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toysareforboysHace 2 años
I have a big cap on it currently (500 farads safe for up to 16.2v). I
have another 1000 farads to install for 1500 farads total and also got
an aftermarket alternator for more power :) I haven't run a new front
to back power cable (the factory battery is in the trunk) but I'll do
that when I install the new alternator.
http://ecuflashking.com/07cobaltSS_SC/2015-10-08-
New_battery_terminals_and_wiring.jpg
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RenttaHace 2 años
Distance also matters.
3
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lilsammywasapunkrockHace 2 años
even a 20c 2000mah 3 cell lipo could easily start a car. that would
be a 60 amp continuous rating and roughly 90 amp peak (10
seconds). i have a model airplane i pull 50 amps out of a 12 guage
wire, never really more then 5-10 seconds though. what really makes
these things interesting though, they can carry more then 80% rated
amprage when they are dead, meaning even at 11.1v, the voltage
really isnt gonna drop much.
1
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HomefrontHace 1 año
Stinky Cheese actually, no
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Stepside1986Hace 1 año
@Teardown DanI am fairly sure that these cables are "CCA /
Copper Coated Aluminum". They will heat up more than copper
wire cables.
1
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LorisHace 2 meses
@Dad_a_Monk you know thos C numbers are fake and that mac C
for a lipo is 50C right?
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Dad_a_MonkHace 2 meses
@Loris Well, it has been over 2 years, so kind of a late point...The
question was not addressed to you, but glad you decided to
comment, all be it late. I was commenting on someone's use of the
word "actually". That had nothing to do with the "max C" of a LiPo
cell. The word "actually" applied to that one sentence, not his entire
post, which expanded beyond the rating on a cable. So glad you read
an article, on line, and decided to try to use the info. Good on you!
Perhaps you should have responded to @Ethan Poole and not me.
Obviously you feel a need to correct someone on the ratings of LiPo
cells, so good luck with that. So...nice comment, have a good day.
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Bostish2Hace 2 años
damn, I always thought it was just one of those massive car fuses.
5
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mikeselectricstuffHace 2 años
That's a fairly typical drop for a big schottky at low currents, it
doesn't stay that low under load though.
8
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bigclivedotcom
Hace 2 años
I'd guess it might go quite high at the real life starting currents. Oh,
remember your little pyrophoric incident? I've just had one that I
also caught on video.
2
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xfuwHace 2 años
3:28 oowww
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LiqtorHace 2 años
Want a high current test? Contact "Photonic Induction" here on
YouTube. He has some nice equipment. =P
youtube.com/user/Photonvids
8
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bigclivedotcom
Hace 2 años
And two types from the same series. 40 and 45V PIV.
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ThanatosXRSHace 1 año
Good i have a 4cyl
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Fred LastHace 1 mes
I have a 3 cylinder.
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mattmacd2009Hace 11 meses
I love watching your videos, almost as much as do pretending to
understand what in hell you're saying!!
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DavidgHace 2 años
try using a salt water load, tub of salt water and one of the electrodes
v, (arrow) shaped move up and down to allow adjustment of load,
3
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BeniHace 2 años
I saw these things sometimes, when my dad welded something onto
a car, and he didn't want to take the battery out. That would be my
first guess!
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373RN17YHace 1 año
3:45 that soldering job
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MandolinicHace 2 años
I'm so disappointed that the spudger worked. I wanted to see you
wielding the hammer of knowledge!
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karebu2Hace 2 años
I've used 3 different jumpstarters successfully before. They are all
brandless and from china. I'm really interested in how they work.
Thanks in advance
2
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girlsdrinkfeckHace 2 años
" photonicinductions " he will test it
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DarkLinkADHace 2 años
Clive, link Amazon, make money, come on man. :)
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gorillaauHace 2 años
Paul Gascoigne Oh, I don't know. Throwing a charged electrolytic
capacitor to someone, asking them to catch it, could be entertaining.
3
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DeltaDanHace 1 año
those jump starters are awesome!
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Ed JonesHace 2 años
Erik Bruijn and ui
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erg0centricHace 2 años
start booster? wouldn't it be easier to service your car battery once
every five years?
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hellshade2Hace 1 año
@matthew miller there are many factors involved when it comes to
new battery for your car. who makes it,how many year battery it
is ,how long that battery has been sitting on a shelf waiting for you
to buy it. if you have the fortune of buying that new battery within a
month of it's manufacture then chances are it will last as long as
advertised. within a batteries first year it must be used to do what is
called cycling if this does not occur then the battery will fail early. if
the battery is serviceable and you can open it to check water level in
the cells then you can easily check for a bad cell with a volt meter as
each cell should have a minimum of 1.5 volts. if any cell checks less
than 1.5 volts than that cell is bad.
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hellshade2Hace 1 año
@matthew miller just so you know it is not voltage that charges a
battery but amperage.yes voltage must be between 13.5-14.5 volts
but there must be at leasty 30 amps output from the alternator and
that is without anything else in the vehicle on,headlights,radio,etc
these days a cars headlights alone will use between 15-20 amps just
on low beams.most cars today you should be seeing anywhere from
65-120 amps output from an alternator depending on what
accessories a vehicle has that draw power from the alternator. just
thought you might be interested :)
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SKYGuyHace 2 años
damn...it's too early for BG vids!
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fhhsvnggbhHace 2 años
thankyou for pulling that apart so I don't have to irreparably damage
more of my stuff hahaha!
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achuymanHace 2 años
bigclive favorite word: spudger
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TheSizzlingIcetrayHace 2 años
Guess: Capacitor to take starting load..?
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fhhsvnggbhHace 9 meses
Clive did i miss the other video, id love to know how those
jumpstart packs work.
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bigclivedotcom
Hace 9 meses
There are a few booster videos on my channel. They basically work
by using a stack of three high current lithium cells in series to
deliver enough current to jump start the car.
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MitgardxxlHace 2 años
My spear twitches. Thanks
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bigclivedotcom
Hace 2 años
You're welcome.
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101rotarypowerHace 2 años
+bigclivedotcom can you please do a series on these, there are so
many, most being completely deceitful on ratings and capacity.
People would be helped to understand the difference between a
power bank and a engine boost unit. As well as understand the
different modes/benefits of charging between a USB or 12vdc barrel
plug. I added a balance plug, and it seems to help, as the cells are
generally low quality and poorly managed.
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MushiousHace 2 años
Guessing before watching: some kind of surge protection.
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TheCrakkleHace 2 años
Don't think I would like to crank and engine with one of these !
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LeonHace 2 años
I'm guessing it's some kind of surge protection to prevent damage to
the control circuits of modern cars.
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AnonymaxHace 2 años
Seems like such a lot of solder on the diode connections, and so
messy!
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erik61801Hace 2 años
so you dont get feedback from the alternator when the car starts ;)
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SkräckenHace 2 años
I'm guessing there's a couple of magnets in it to improve fuel
efficiency.
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insylemHace 2 años
I guessed a diode! Yay I was right!
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playdav485Hace 2 años
i believe the block in the wire is a lossless diode made of mosfets to
prevent the car from charging the jump starter
2
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ZMBPHace 2 años
Fascinating video, very well explained. If only I knew what the hell
it all meant!
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HeisenbergdlHace 1 año
Fusable link?
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hpux735Hace 2 años
Yay! I guessed right ;p
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Mrflash222006Hace 2 años
Seen these cheap packs it use - before they blow they tend to melt
the solder in the joints, They then fall apart, Cheap thermal
protection maybe ?
2
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minnsminnsHace 1 año
Used a lithium jump starter (from Halfords) twice a day at least for
about two weeks, started my car flawlessly every time.
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12799MaDeuceHace 2 años
new channel logo?
1
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classicshit2Hace 2 años
I would love to see one of these jump start packs explained. how the
hell do they get enough power to jump start a car? I went out to a
totally flat petrol engines fiat doblo... no lights on the dash flat as a
pancake. customer comes out with one connects it up and boom off
she goes couldn't believe it had enough power to start it and didn't
even seem to struggle!!!! I bet a normal small car battery would
have taken a while to get it going. I usually use leads off my twin
battery Toyota Hilux. keep up the great work Clive your videos are
superb and make me more interested in electronics every time I
watch!! :-)
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bigclivedotcom
Hace 2 años
The secret is in the very high current capability of the lithium cells
optimised for sport applications. That's also what makes them quite
scary, as they tend to fail violently if damaged or overloaded.
17
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SigEpBlueHace 2 años
It's that "fail violently" part, why I don't use them in automotive
applications, even for jump-starting. Bound starters or dead shorts
can draw as much current as you can feed them, and I don't feel like
putting out another car fire, thanks. ;)
1
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classicshit2Hace 2 años
Yeah to be honest I like jump leads because if the discharged battery
will take a charge you can give it a charge for a while to lower the
massive draw and not melt something. I've used quite a few of the
classic style jump packs but they can be hit and miss. that and I'm
too tight to buy one... It makes me laugh when you get people
jumping of a 12v battery (not on a vehicle) and wondering why it
still won't start. The fully charged battery and 14.5 volts and 100amp
from the alternator don't half make a difference lol and you can
leave the leads on to give the alternator chance to start charging. I'm
preaching to the choir now. :-)
1
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pillsburiedHace 2 años
There is usually so much resistance in the clamp and leads that the
load is not as massive as one may think. In addition, by giving it
time, you are allowing things to heat up. And then consider that
there will be losses in the vehicle battery itself, both charging and
discharging. I believe it's best to turn on the jump starter and
immediately crank the engine (making sure all possible accessories
are turned off first). It can be helpful to have someone tightly
squeeze the clamps for better contact. For some reason I've had a lot
of experience jump-starting vehicles. I'm just too nice. The old lead-
acid jump starters are such a pain in the ass, with the need to lug
them around and recharge monthly. I just love these lithium jump
starters. They can go in your pocket and only need charging once or
twice a year if not used.
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Mr B moneyHace 1 año
I'll split it open using violence. 😂😂 don't forget fowl language too
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RBTechHace 2 años
Stupid question...The numbers on each of the diodes is different.
Does that mean they are differently rated? I dont suspect its just a
different manufacturers number as they dont tend to do
this...confused mechanical brain here.
32
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superdauHace 2 años
The changing number quite likely are datecodes when they were
produced. With the numbers all over the place it tells you they used
"leftovers" and not new stock from a reel (the dates also look like
the parts are from 2001/2002). In a proper design you would never
do that, because you must not put diodes in parallel without
precautions (this is true for LEDs as well). Diodes from different
batches will have slightly different characteristics even if it's the
same part number. And mixing different part numbers like they did
(2040CT and 2045CT) is a big nono as well. The problem is, if the
diode aren't almost exactly the same (not just the type, but in
measured electrical characteristics) and thermally coupled to each
other (at least they are on the same piece of board, so that's a bonus),
there's always one that conducts slightly more current than the others
at the same voltage. More current means more heat for that diode
and diodes conduct better when they are hotter! So the diode takes
even more current, heating up more and more. Depending on how
much you overload it, it might die immediately or after repeated use.
Now that that diode is dead, it's time for the second best conducting
to take it's turn, except now the current will be devided between on
less diode, so more current for all of them and die even faster. That's
also a good way to kill LEDs if you skimp on limiting the current of
each strand of LEDs individually.
14
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superdauHace 2 años
+Mix Bag Check how the diodes are oriented. These diodes are not
reverse polarity protection (no point in having that with power
sources on both ends anyway). They are back feed protection.
2
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mman454Hace 2 años
Mix Bag is it a charger you made yourself? Every charger I've seen
has reverse polarity protection built in.
1
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TroniqueHace 2 años
I think he just didn't notice that they were different. Yes, the ratings
would be different, but probably fairly similar in this case.
2
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SkyWizardlessHace 2 años
It's not for polarity protection, it's to prevent the Li-Ion cells being
charged by the alternator after the engine has been started. You can't
use MOSFETs as a low Vf diode with only two terminals.
4
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JasonMastersHace 1 año
If you use the charger as just a charger and don't try to crank the
engine with the charger connected, you can probably get away with
using a single high-current rated Schottky diode. But bear in mind
that if you do try to crank the engine with the charger still
connected, you'll likely blow the diode because the charger will be
trying to feed into what it sees as a short circuit. To prevent this, you
could try adding a fuse with a rating slightly higher than the rated
current of the charger. For example, if the charger is rated at 5A, you
could probably use an 8A fuse.
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rstmg60Hace 1 mes
Khron's Cave d
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MobiusHorizonsHace 2 años
does the diode voltage drop when you put them in parallel? if so,
~0.12v * 4 = 0.60v which is about right for a silicon diode.
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RalphHace 2 años
Hey Clive, i just wanted to say thank you for making these excellent
videos. I've learned a lot i wouldn't have otherwise, and been
entertained the whole way. I recently got an electronics kit for my
birthday and i'm having s great time experimenting with it, as well
as trying some soldering tricks i've learned from you. Thank you