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Association of Textile, �parel & Matenals Professionals

AATCC takes no positwn respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection
with any item mentioned in this test method. Users of this test method are expressly advised
that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the risk of infringement of
such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.

This test method is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee
and must be reviewed every five years and if not revised, either reaffirmed or withdrawn.
Your comments are invited either for revision of this test method or for additional
procedures and should be addressed to the AATCC Technical Center. Your comments will
receive careful consideration at a meeting of the responsible technical committee, which
you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing, you
should make your views known to Diana A. Wyman, Technical Director, at the address
shown below.

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This test method is notfor resale.

The American Association of Textie Chemists and Colorists Licensee-ZHEJIANG INST OF STANOARDl2ATION 5950617
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
 AATCC Evaluation Procedure 6-2016
Developed in 1995 by AATCC Commit­
tee RA36; reaffirmed 1996, 1997, 2003,
2008; reaffirmed and editorially re­
vised 1998; revised 2016. Technically
equivalent to ISO 105-J01.
1. General Description ol
Color Measurement
1.1 Purpose
I.I .I This evaluation procedure is a
reference document to support the proper
measurement of the color stimulus of
specimens by instrumental means as re­
quired in many of the current AATCC
test methods. The document contains
three major subsections covering reflec­
tance measurement, transmittance mea­
surement and related calculations. In ad­
dition, an appendix is supplied which
details specific techniques and specimen
handli ng procedures.
1.2 Terminology
J.2.1 area-of-view, n.-o/ color mea­
suring instrument, the dimensions of the
surface area that a color measuring in­
strument is capable of covering in a sin­
gle color measurement.
1.2.2 col or m easu ring instrument,
n.- any device, such as a colorimeter or
spectrophotometer, used to meas ure the
relative amounts of energy reflected from
(or transmitted through) a specimen in
the visible region of the energy spectrum
(comprising the wavelengths from 360-
780 nm, and including as a minimum the
region from 400-700 nm).
1.2.3 color measurement, n.-a nu­
merical representation of the color stimu­
lus of an object obtai ned by use of a color
measuring instrument. A single measure­
ment may represent an average of multi­
ple readings of a specimen .
1.2.4 fluorescence, n.-a phenomenon
in which radiant flux of certain wave­
lengths is absorbed and re-emitted at other
visible, usually longer, wavelengths.
1.2.5 geometry, n.-of a color mea­
suring instrumenl, one of the following
terms (diffuse/O, O/diffuse, 0/45 or 45/0)
which describe the angle or manner in
which a color measuring instrument:
(1) iHumfoates the specimen (diffuse,
oo, 450).
(2) views the resulting reflected light
(0 [0°-10°], diffuse, 45°, 0°).
Diffuse/O and O/diffuse geometry instru­
ments contain a sphere used to diffuse the
light illuminating [or reflected from] the
specimen, while 0/45 and 45/0 geometry
instrumenis generally use mirrors or fiber
optics to direct the illumination [or view-
430 EP6-2016
The American Association of Textite Chemists and Colorisls
Prov!OOCI by IH$ unele< Hcense with AATCC
No reproduclion or netvlOft<jng pe1milted without lioense from IHS
Instrumental Color Measurement
ing] at a 45° angle to/from the specimen.
NOTE: Instruments of differe nt geo­
metrics may produce different colorimet­
ric results on most textile materials.
1.2.6 reflectance, n.-the ratio of the
reflected radiant or luminous energy
(light) to the i ncident energy in the given
Instrumental
conditions.
1.2.7 reflectance factor, n.-the ratio
of the light reflected from the specimen
to the light reflected from the perfect
reflecting diffuser under the same
geometric and spectral conditions of
measurement.
1.2.8 specular reflection, n.-the re­
flection without diffusion, in accordance
with the laws of optical reflection, as in a
mirror.
1.2.9 standardization, n.-of color
measuring instrumellt, the act of measur­
i ng one or more standard materials with
a color measuring instrument for the
purpose of calculating a set of correction
factors to be applied to all subsequent
measurements.
1.2.10 transmittance, n.-the ratio
of transmitted light to incident light under
specified geometric and spectral conditions.
NOTE: Regular transmittance (of trans­
parent materials) is the ratio of undifuf sed
transmit.led light to incident light.
1.2.11 transmittance factor, n.-the
ratio of the light measured after bei ng
transmitted through a transparent or trans­
lucent specimen to that measured in the
absence of the specimen. In case of liq­
uid samples, the test measurement is usu­
ally that of the colored solution in a cu­
vette and the reference measurement is
that of the identical cuvette filled with
the solvent used for dissolution (usually
di stilled water).
1.2.12 verification standard, n.- in
color measurement, any stable material
which is used for the purpose of con­
firming (or verifying) the validity of an
instrument standardization. Color mea­
surements, which are made immediately
following a standardization, are compared
to original measurements of the standard
to detect improper standardization.
1.3 Safety Precautions
1.3.1 T hese safet y precautions are for
information purposes only. The precau­
tions are ancillary to the testing
prOcedures and are not intended to be all
inclusive. It is the user's responsibility to
use safe and proper techniques in handling
materials in this test procedure. Manufac­
turers MUST be consulted for specific
deiails suc h as safe ty data sheets and
other manufacturer's recommendations .
Copyright e 2016 American AssociaQ�W'�t\l�*i��fh'i.�PJ'l::'&'Jr!fgU9566'7
All OSHA standards are rules must also
be consulted and followed.
1.3.2 Good laboratory practices should
be followed. Wear eye protection in all
laboratory areas.
1.3.3 The manufacturer's safety rec­
ommendations should be followed when
operating laboratory testing equipment.
1.4 General Guidelines
1.4.1 In general, instrumental color
measurement procedures are dictated by
the type of specimen to be measured and
the instrument with which it will be mea­
sured. Many types of color measuring in­
struments are available, differing in such
features as area-of-view, illumination
method and geometry. The user is cau­
tioned that conflicting results may be
obtained by comparing data acquired on
instruments of different designs.
1.5 Procedure
1.5.1 Operators who utilize Evaluation
Procedure 6 as a reference for color mea­
surement should generally conduct such
measurements as follows:
1.5.2 Refer to the a ppropriate section
(Reflectance or Transmittance) for speci­
men to be measured.
1.5.3 Standardize instrument (see 2.4).
Maintain a record of the procedure and of
the results for any verification standards
measured.
1.5.4 Obtain and prepare specimen,
noting any special sampli ng and/or con­
ditioni ng procedures that may be required
(see Appendix A.1.2).
1.5.5 Present specimen to color measur­
ing insnument, again following any spe­
cial techniques required for the type of ma­
terial being measured (see A ppendix A).
1.5.6 Measure the color of the speci­
men, obtaining the appropriate spectral
reflectance or transmittance factors or
colorimetric values.
1.5.7 Perform any appropriate numeri­
cal calculations as specified in Section 4 or
as is required by the specific test method.
2. Measurement ol Color by Reflectance
Methods
2.1 Principle
2.1.l Materials of an opaque or nearly
opaque nature (but not translucent) are
measured by reflectance methods to ob­
tain a numerical representation of the
color of the specimen. Proper equipment
setup, standardization of the color mea­
suring instrument, and proper presenta­
tion of the test specimens to the instru­
ment are required to achieve consistent,
reliable, and meaningful reflectance mea­
surement results. In addition, calculation
AATCC Technical Manual/2017

 of the colorimetric values required for
evaluating the results must be performed
in the prescribed manner.
2.2 Uses and Limitations
2.2. l This section is restricted to the
measurement of the color of opaque and
nearly opaque specimens by reflectance
spectrophotometers or reflectance color­
imeters. The use of special procedures
and/or aids to the presentation of speci­
mens is covered in the appendix.
2.3 Appara tus and Materials
2.3.1 Reflectance color measuring in­
strumentation illuminates a specimen imd
measures the amount of light which is re­
flected from the surface of the specimen.
Illumination is normally done in a poly­
chromatic manner (white light), however
monochromatic mode is acceptable for
nonfluorescent specimens. Reflectance
color measuring instruments may be
broadly divided between two groups:
Spectrophotometers and Colorimeters.
2.3.2 Specu·opbotometers (typically
diffuse/0°, using polychromatic illumina­
tion) separate and measure the spectrum
of light reflected from the specimen, rela­
tive to a reference, white at regular inter­
vals (wavelength intervals of 5 nm, l 0
nm, and 20 nm are most common). This
data may be used to calculate the needed
tristimulus values (X,Y,Z) for the selected
.ill un:tinant/observer combination. Some
spectrophotometers (typically 0/diffuse)
illuminate the sample with monochro­
matic light, and measure the an1ount of
1ight reflected from the surface as the
sample is illuminated ar regular wave­
length intervals.
2.3.3 Colorimeters measure the tristim­
ulus values (X, Y,Z) directly through
broadband filters which are designed to
produce colorimetric values for one illu­
minant and observer (typically C/2°).
Measurement of reflectance factors at
specific wavelengths is not possible with
a colorimeter.
2.3.4 Witbio these two categories, the
instrument5 are further defined by their
geometry. Two types of geometties are
prevalent: Sphere (also referred to as dif­
fuse/O [d/0] or 0/diffuse [0/d]) aod 45/0
or 0/45. The first term in each geometry
type refers to the method (or angle) by
which the sample is illuminated (ex: 45°
in a 45/0 instrument). The second term
refers to the angle at wbich the instru­
ment views the illuminated specimen (ex:
0° in a 45/0 instrument).
2.3.5 Diffuse/O (sphere) instruments il­
luminate the specimen indirectly when tl1e
specimen is placed against a port opening
into a diffusely illuminated sphere, and
view the specimen at an angle between 0°
and 10° from the perpendicular. This ar­
rangement is designed to capture all light
reflected from the specimen. Some sphere
instruments with a viewing angle greater
than 0° include a specular port wh.ich al-
AATCC Technical Manual/2017
The American Association of Te xt.iie Chemists and Coloris1$
Provided by IHS uncle< llceiise with MTCC
No rcproduetroo or n&tvlOtking permitted without lioonse lrotn IHS
lows for the inclusion or exclusion of the
specular reflecrance. The majority of
spectrophotometers in use in the textile in­
dustry use diffuse/0, where the actual
viewing angle is 8°. Measurements made
on otber geometries will likely produce
different spectral or colorimetric results.
2.3.6 O/diffuse (sphere) instruments are
similar, but die path of illumination and
viewing are reversed. This method illumi­
nates the sample at an angle between 0°
and 10°, and measures the an1ount of light
reflected from the surface into the sphere.
2.3.7 Instruments with 45/0 or (0/45)
geometry illuminate the specimen at the
first angle and view the specimen at the
second. These two geometries can be ei­
ther circumferential (viewing or illumi­
nating at 45° to the specimen in a com­
plete circle) or directional. For most
textile samples, either 45/0 or 0/45 yield
equivalent results.
2.3.8 All color measuring instruments
require a white calibrated standard witb
which to standardize the instrument. The
colorimen·ic values for this calibration
standard are stored in the instrument or
the software and require only that a spe­
cific standard be used to standardize the
instrument. The co1Tect white standard is
usually identified with a serial number.
2.4 Standardization
2.4.1 Proper standardization of any
color measuriog instrument is absolutely
necessary to achieve unifonn, accurate
results. While different types of instru­
ments require varying methods of stan­
dardization, tbere are common principles
which must be observed.
2.4.2 ln general, an instrument stan­
dardization involves measuring a clean
white surface of known reflectance fac­
tors (referenced to a perfect reflecting
diffuser) and calculating (through soft­
ware built into the instrument or com­
puter program) a series of correction fac­
tors which will be applied to all
subsequent measurements. Some instru­
ments also require a black tile (or light
trap), and possibly a gray tile. Each of
these materials must be maintained in it�
original clean, unscratched condition. Re­
fer ro manufacturer's recommendations
for cleaning instructions.
2.4.3 The frequency with which this
standardization must be performed depends
on many factors including the type of in­
strument, the environmental conditions in
which the instrument operates, and the re­
quired accuracy of the results. For most ap­
plications, an interval of 2-4 h is typical.
2.4.4 Once the standardization step has
been performed, it is important to verify
the success of the procedure by measur­
ing some colored materials (verification
standards) and comparing the resulting
colorimetric values to tbe original values
for these materials. lf the measured val­
ues do not fall within an acceptable varia-
Copyright© 2016 American Associa����'OO���fh'ii�P.fe&'J.!ffis59�17
tion from their original values, the stan­
dardization is not considered valid. The
number of verification standards and
the acceptability limits depend on user re­
quirements, but are typically 1-3 stan­
dards and an acceptance lin:tit of 0.20
t1Ec,11c (2: I) (DM/ I 0°) unil5.
2.5 Sa mpling
2.5.1 All measurements taken on
color measuring instrumentation involve
"sampling. The area-ot�view of the in­
"
strument, the number of presentations
averaged to produce a single measure­
ment, the difficulty of presenting the
specimen to the instrument, and the accu­
racy with which the sample represents the
object of concern (garment, roll, dye lot,
etc.) all play important parts in achieving
meaningful and reproducible results. Re­
fer to ASTM E l 345 (see 7. I) and SAE
Jl 545 (see 7.3) for techniques in estab­
lisbing sampling procedures.
2.6 Specimen Preparation
2.6.1 The ideal specimen to measure is
a rigid, non-textured, inert, opaque speci­
men of uniform color. Such ideal speci­
mens do not exist in textiles, so it be­
comes necessary to employ techniques
and practices when measuring most tex­
tiJe materials which eliminate or reduce
the effect any objectionable characteris­
tics have on the insm1mental color mea­
surement. Specific procedures and tech­
niques for handling specimens which
meet the folJowing characteristics are
presented in Appendix A.
2.6.2 Fluorescence of the specimen
(from dyes or fluorescent whitening
agents [FWAs]) will influence the results
depending on the amount of fluorescing
material present and the amount and
quality of ultraviolet and visib.le energy
in the instrument light source. Results
may be pa1ticularly hard to duplicate be­
tween instruments. Example materials
are white or lightly colored materials
treated with FWAs (see Al .1).
2.6.3 Moisture Content of textile mate­
rials can affect their color and appearance
characteristics. Tbe amount of condition­
ing time necessary to achieve a stable
moisture state varies with fiber, fabric
construction, dyes and surrounding con­
ditions. Examples of materials which are
typically affected by moisture content are
cotton and rayon fabrics (see A1.2).
2.6.4 Non-Rigid specimens tend to pro­
trude (or "pillow") into the viewing port
of instruments which contact the speci­
men at the measurement port. The
amount of intrusion may vary depending
on number of layers, softness of material
and the backing pressure applied to
mount the specimen. Variations in the
amount of intrusion will result in signifi­
cant deviations in the resulting color
measurement which are both unpredict­
able and non-reproducible. Examples of
these materials are fiber, yam, knits and
EP6·2016 431
 layers of lightweight fabric (see A 1.4.3).
2.6.5 Non-Opaque specimens allow
some I ight to pass through the material
during measurement. Most textile materi­
als, by nature of their structure, fit this cat­
egory. During measurement, any light
which passes through the material to reach
the backing plate (or escape from the in­
strument) will yield false and unpredict­
able results. Examples of these materials
are knits, lightweight materials, and fiber
(see Al.3 and Al.3.1).
2.6.6 Sensitivity of the spec i men to
light (photochromism) and/or heat (ther­
mochromism) will result in unpredictable
and nonreproducible results, depending
on the degree of sensitivit y and the
amount of time the specimen is exposed
to objectionable conditions (see A2.5).
2.6.7 Size of the specimen is important
in obtaining a representative measure­
ment by the instrument. When the speci­
men is too small for normal measure­
ment, special techniques may be required
to achieve a proper color measurement
(see Al.6).
2.6.8 Surface Texture of the specimen
(including pile lay, twill, gloss, and lus­
ter) will affect the results of the color
measurement. The color measurement of
specimens with such physical character­
istics will be affected in different ways
depending on the geometry of the instru­
ment. Results between instruments may
be non-reproducible. Examples of these
specimens are carpet, corduroy and
wound yam (see A1.7).
2.6.9 Variation. in. Col.or (non­
uniformity) within the specimen, as
related to the area-of-view of the instru­
ment can cause inaccurate and non­
reproducible results. Examples are denim
and heathers (see A 1.8).
3. Measurement of Color by
Transmittance Methods
3.1 Principle
, 3.1.1 Materials of a transparent nature
are measured by transmittance methods
to obtain a numerical representation of
their color and/or their relative strength
(concentration) compared to that of a
standard material. The most common ap­
plication is the measurement of solutions
of dyes in clear solvents contained in a
glass cuvette or flow cell for the pur­
poses of determining colorant identity,
relative strength or color difference.
3.2 Uses and Limitations
3.2. l This method is generally suitable
for the measurement of true solutions
which are transparent and void of particu­
late matter. Although translucent or tur­
bid liquids are sometimes measured by
transmittance methods, such methods are
beyond the scope of this evaluation
procedure .
3.3 Apparatus, Reagents, and Materials
3 .3 .1 Transmittance instruments may
432 EP6-2016
The American Association ofTextite Chemists and Colorisls
Prov!OOCI by IH$ unele< Hcense with AATCC
No reproduclion or netvlOft<jng pe1milted without license from IHS
be dedicated instru ments (capable only of sociation. When preparing specimens
measuring transmittance specimens), or where solubility is unknown, it is neces­
may be combined with a sphere for an in­ sary to let the prepared solution stand for
strument capable of performing both re­ a period of time to observe any settling of
flectance and transmittance measure­ contents. If such settling is observed, a
ments. Most transmittance instruments true solution does not exist and other sol­
are spectrophotometers although a few
, vent systems are required. All specimens
are colorimeters. should be allowed to reach room temper­
3.3.2 Transmittance cells or cuvettes ature prior to presenting the specimen to
(used to hold the solution during mea­ the instrument.
surement) are typically made of glass or
quartz, and are designed for specific 4. Calculations
pathlengths (normally IO mm) suitable
Most calculations of colorimetric nature
for measurement of most textile related
are perfom1ed by the software being used
solutions (usually requiring some dilution
to operate the color measuring instru­
steps to be taken before measurement).
ment. In no rmal cases of reference to this
Flow-through cells, which allow the solu­
Evaluation Procedure it will not be neces­
tion to be pumped or fed through them,
sary for the user to perform these calcula­
are more efficient for high volume appli­
tions; however they are described in this
cations and usually result in better repro­
Evaluation Procedure as a means of refer­
ducibility of results.
ence and standardization for those who
3.3.3 'When using volumetric procedures,
may need to perform such calculations.
volumetric glassware (pipettes and flasks)
4.1 Tristimulus Valu es
is absolutely required for proper prepara­
4.1.1 The tristimulus values (X,Y,Z) are
tion of specimens and only glassware
derived from spectral data and are the ba­
,
which is rated at class A should be used.
sis for all colorimetric calculations. The
3.3.4 Balan ces which are capable of exact X,Y,Z values derived from a set of
accurate results within 0.1 % of the quan­
spectral data depend on several factors in­
tity being weighed must be used when cluding the wavelength range (and inter­
weighing speci mens used to prepare the val) of measurement and the user's choice
solution for measurement. of illuminant/observer functions used in
3.4 Standardization the calculation. While most calculations of
3.4.1 Before measuring specimen(s), tristimulus values are performed by com­
the instrument must be standardized ac­ puter programs, interested persons should
cording to the manufacturer's directions. refer to ASTM E308 (see 7.1) for defini­
Normally this requires measuring a clear tive procedures (see 7.2).
solution of the solvent used for dissolu­ 4.2 1976 CIE L*,a*,b*, C*, and hue
tion (usually distilled water) in a clean angle (h.b)
transmittance cell to produce a l 00% ref­ 4.2. l Calculate the L*,a*, b*, C*ab• h,,1,
erence line . Some instruments require the values from the X,Y,Z tristimulus values
measurement of a "blocked beam" to set for both the reference and specimen as
a 0% reference. This procedure produces follows:
a set of co1Tection factors which are ap­
L* 116(Y/Y,,)113- 16
plied to all subsequent measurements.
=
if
The use of one or more colored fllters as
Y!Y,, > 0.008856
a verification standard to check both
photometric and wavelength accuracy is but
recommended. L* = 903.3 (YIY,,)
3.5 Sampling if
3.5.1 Sampling procedures for trans­ YIY,, $ 0.008856
mission methods depend on the nature of a* =5001/(X/X,,) -f(YIY,,)]
the material and the type of specimen col­ b* = 200[/(Y/Y,,) - f('ZJZ,,)]
lected. Powder and paste specimens
should be taken from enough locations to where :
ensure a reproducible sample within the f(X!X,,) = (X/X,,)'13
population being sampled and thoroughly if
mixed prior to proceeding with weighing XIX,,> 0.008856
and dissolving. or
3.6 Specime n Preparation f(XIX,,) = 7.787(X/X,,) + 16/ l l 6
3.6. l Specimens must be prepared by if
prescribed laboratory procedures using XIX,,$ 0.008856
analytical balances and volumetric glass­ f(YIY,,) = (YIY,,)'13
ware. Solutions should be prepared at a if
concentration at which the percent trans­ YIY,,> 0.008856
mittance of the solution in the transmit­ or
tance cell is between I 0% and 50% at the j(YIY,,) = 7.787(Y/Y,,) + 16/116
wavelength of maximum absorbance (see if
7.4). Each specimen must be in true solu­ YIY,, � 0.008856
tion, not in suspension, di spersion or as- f(ZIZ,,) = (Z/Z,,)113
AATCC Technical Manual/2017
ST OF $IAN O/.BOIZATION
a \..OIOflSt S59566 1 7
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Copyright e 2016 American AsSOC13\11>1
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•
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 if wavelength O.) is: where:
ZIZ,, > 0.008856 KIS = ((1.0 - R1)2)/(2.0R,) K/S = KJS as calculated in equation
or 4.3.2 above
where:
f(ZIZ.) =
7.787(Z/Z,,) + 16/116 E = Energy of selected illuminant
Ri. is the reflectance factor of the spec­
if (normally 065)
imen at wavelength A (the %R value is
ZIZ,,::; 0.008856 x,y,z = tristimulus weighting values
normally measured by a specu·ophotometer
C*,w (a*2 + b*2)1n
= for selected observer (normally
and normalized to LO [i.e., 100% I .OJ ) .
hob= arctan( b*/a*) expressed on a 0° to
=
JOO)
* 4.3.3 For applications where the Pineo
n number of wavelength inter-
360° scale with the a positive axis be­ correction form of the equation is re­
=

*
ing 0° and the b positive axis at 90°. vals used
quired (generally for deeply dyed tex­
For these equations, X,,, Y. and Z,, are tiles), the fomrnla used is: (TSVSTR) tristimulus color strength
the tristimulus values of the illuminant. value (X,Y,Z function). Normally the Y
KIS = (1.0 - (R1• - s)2)/2.0(R,_ - s)
For daylight the preferred illuminant/ value is used as a gross color strength
where: value related to the visual lightness
observer combination is 065/10°. Table I
s is the minimum reflectauce achiev­ function, although either the X or Z
gives the values for all combinations in
able in the deepest dyed shade and is used may be chosen for measurement of
ASTM E308.
for all wavelengths. components where the absorption
4.3 Color Strength Value using Re­
4.3.4 The four types of Color Strength characteristics are known and fall into
flectance Measurement
Value calculations that are most com­ widely separated regions of the visible
4.3.1 Color Strength Value is a single
monly used are: spectrum. In most applications, the
numerical value related to the amount of
color absorbing material (colorant) con­ smallest of the 3 tristimulus values (X,
(SWL) KJS at single wavelength (usu­
tained in a specimen. It is most often used Y or Z) is chosen and is used in place of
ally wavelength of maximum absor­
to calculate the difference in strength (% the %R value in equation in 4.3.2
bance). Use equation 4.3.2 and calcu­
strength) between two colored speci­ above. While the TSVSTR equation is
late K/S for a single wavelength.
mens. Color Strength Value may be cal­ used in the textile industry, no specific
culated by any one of four acceptable (SUM) K/S summed over wavelength scientific suppon of it can be found in
methods. The value which results from interval within the visible spectrum. normally accepted reference books.
Use equation 4.3.2, calculate K/S at
one method may not agree with any other NOTE: See 4.5 below to calculate the
method. The choice of method is usually each desired wavelength interval and
relative difference in strength between
dependent on the nature of the specimen sum. The resulting value may be nor­
two specimens using one of these calcu­
and the need for obtaining a color malized by dividing it by the number lation methods.
of intervals summed.
strength value. Colorimeters must calcu­ 4.4 Color Strength Value using
late this value using a tristimulus function (WSUM) K/S weighted by visual Transmittance Measurement
method. The methods used are labeled as function (such as the x,y,z functions 4.4.1 Color Strength Value is a single
SWL, SUM, WSUM and TSVSTR, and and the 065 illuminant energy function) numerical value related to the amount of
are calculated as follows: and summed over a wavelength inter­ color absorbing material (colorant) con­
4.3.2 Color Strength Value of speci­ val within the visible spectrum, then tained in a solution. It is most often used
mens measured on a spectrophotometer divided by the number of wavelength to calculate the difference in strength (%
most often involves calculation of a K/S intervals summed. strength) between two colored solutions.
value at one or more wavelength inter­ Color Strength Value may be calculated
vals. The commonly used equation for WSUM = Li. [(K/S,_ * xi. * E1) by any one of four acceptable methods.
*
(K/S1, + Y1-. E1-.)
calculation of the K/S value for opaque +
The value which results from one method
+ (K/S1. * z,
* E,_)]ln
specimens (i.e., textiles) at a specified may not agree with any other method.
The choice of method is usually depen­
dent on the nature of the specimen and
Table 1-Tristimulus Values for Illuminant/Observer Combinations the need for obtaining a color strength
value. Colorimeters must calculate this
Trislimulus Values
Illuminant/Observer value using a tristimulus function
Combinations x. Y, z. method. The methods used are labelled as
110° observer) SWL, SUM, WSUM and TSVSTR, and
are calculated as follows:
N10° 111.146 100.000 35.203
4.4.2 Color Strength Value of specimens
C/10° 97.285 100.000 116.145
o:.o110• measured on a spectrophotometer most ot�
96.720 100.000 81.427
Dssf10° 95.799 100.000 90.926 ten involves calculating an absorbance
Dss/10° 94.811 100.000 107.304 value at one or more wavelengths. The
D7J10' 94. 41 6 100.000 120.641 eq ua tion for calculating the absorbance
F2/10° (Cool White Fluorescent) 103.279 100.000 69.027 value at a specified wavelength (1.) is:
F7/10° (D ayl ight Fluorescent) 95.792 100.000 107.686 A1-. = log,0 (l.O/t1)
F11/10° (Ultralume 4000, TL84) 103863 100 000 65.607 where:
12° observer) ,;,_ is the internal transmittance of the
A/2' 109.850 100.000 35.585 specimen (the %T value normally mea­
C/2° 98.074 100.000 118.232 sured by a spectrophotometer and nor­
D:J2° 96.422 100.000 82.521 malized to 1.0 (i.e., 100% = 1.0)).
Dssf2' 95 682 100000 92.149 4.4.3 The four types of Color Strength
DssJ2° 95.047 100.000 108.883
Value calculations that are most com­
07,)2° 94.97 2 100.000 122.638
monly used are:
F2/2'(Cool White Fluorescent) 99.186 100.000 67.393
F7/2°(0aylight Fluorescent) 95.041 100.000 108.747 (SWL) absorbance at single wavelength
Fl 1/2° (Ultralume 4000, TL84) 100.962 100.000 64.350 (usually wavelength of maximum ab-

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The American AssociatiOn of Textite Chemists and Colorisls Li!{E! I
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
 sorbancc). Use equation in 4.4.2 and
calculate A for a single wavelength.
(SUM) absorbance- summed over
wavelength inte� within the visible
spectrum. U e equation in4.4.2. calcu­
late A at each desired wavelength in­
terval and sum. The resulting value
may be normalized by dividing it by
the number of intervals summed.
(WSUM) absorbance weighted by
visual function (such as the x.y,z func­
tiornc and the 06.1 illuminant energy
function) and summed over a wave­
length interval within the visible spec­
trum, then divided by the number of
wavelength intervals summed.
WSUM = I:,_ [(A, * x, * E,)
+(Ai, * Yi. * E,)
+(Ai.* q* E,)J/ n
where:
A Absorb:mce calculated in equa-
= sion and bias are affected in part by sam­
tion in 4.4.2 above
E Energy of selected illuminant
= the repeatability and accuracy of the indi­
(normally 06�)
x.y.z = tristimulus weighting values
for selected observer (normally
)Qo)
n number of wavelength intervals
=
used
(TSVSTR) tristimulus color strength
value (X. Y,Z function). Nonnally the Y
value is used as a gross color strength
value related to the visual lightness
function. although either the X or Z may
be chosen for measurement of compo­
nenL� where the absorption characteris­
tics are known and fall into widely sep­
arated regions of the visible spectrum.
In most applications. the smallest of the
three tristimulus values (X, Y or Z) is
chosen and is used in place of the % T
value in equation in4.4.2 above. While
rhe TSYSTR equation is used in the
textile industry, no spccitic scientitic
support of it can be found in normally
accepted reference books.
4.5 Relative Stren gth
4.5. I Color Strength Values calculated
by the above method(s) may be used to
calculate the relative difference in
strengrh between two specimens, one of
which is considered to be a standard. The
result of this comparison yields a numeri­
cal quantity which is tenned %strength.
%stren1,'1h = (ColorStrValue,P<d...J
C olorS t r Va lue
,
,. .... ,...) (100.0)
5. Reporting
Reponing of procedures and data ac­
complished through reference to this
evaluation procedure should include, as a
minimum, the following information:
5.1 The in trument geometry rype that
was used to measure the specimen(s).
5.2 The identification of the spectro­
photometer or colorimeter used.
5.3 The illuminant\observer used to
434 EP6-2016
The American Astoe1t'tfor\of Ttuctde Ct'iielTllltt w Cololllls
Pfovicsed by IHS undor llcenso w11h MTCC Copyright 02016 American
No reproduetton or netwMJno pounltted without bnH trOffl IHS
calculate the colorimetric values.
5.4 Identification of specimen.
5.5 The color strength value calcula­
tion (if any) used (SWL, SUM, WSUM,
TSVSTR).
5.6 The specimen presentation and aver­
aging methods employed, such as area-of­
view, number of thick'llesses. temperature
and % relative humidiry if not at standard
conditions and number of readings in a
measurement.
6. Precision and Bias
6.1 Evaluation Procedure 6 is meant to
be used as a supportive reference method.
Specific precision and bias statements
contained within each referring AATCC
test method must be used ro evaluate the
significance of any colorimetric results
obtained as pan of that test method pro­
cedure. The user is cautioned that preci­
ple presentation, averaging methods, and
vidual color measuring instrument used.
7. References
7.1 ASTM standards arc available from
ASTM. W. Conshohocken. PA; web �ite:
www.astm.org.
7.1.l ASTM E1345; Standard Practice for
Reducing the Effect of Variability ofColor Mea­
surement by Use of Multiple Mea�urcmenL�.
7.1.2 ASTM E308: Standard Test Method
for Computing 1he Colors of Objec1s by Using
the CIE System.
7.2 CIE Publication 15.2004. Colorimetry
Third Edition is available through the US Na­
tional commiuee of 1he CIE or via 1hc CIE
Webshop (www.tech-street.com/cic/). One
me1hod to verify that the correct calculations
are being made is 10 cn1er l00"/o rcflecmncc
values iato the co111pu1cr progmm being used
and have the system calculate the tristimulus
values. These values should agree with the
values in Table f (from ASTM E308) 10 the
second decimal place for the illuminant being
checked.
7.3 SAE Jl545: Instrumental Color Differ­
ence Measurement for Exterior Finishes, Tex­
tiles and Colored Trim, available from SAE
lnternational, 400 Commonwcal1h Dr., War­
rendale, PA 15096; web site: www.sac.org.
7.4 S1eams, E. L, The Pracrice ofAl1so171-
1ion Spec1ropho10111e1ry, Wilcy-lncerscicncc,
1969.
7.5 Wyszecki and Stiles. Color Science,
2nd E d.
7.6 ASTM 01776: Standard Practice for
Conditioning ofTexliles for Testjng.
Appendix A
A1. Reflectance Measurement Problems
and Guidelines
Al.1 Fluo rescence-For color mea­
suring instruments which do not have the
abiliry to control accurately the amount
of UV energy illuminating the specimen,
the operator may insen a UY-absorbing
filter between the light source and the
sample, effectively eliminating the UV
Associa���\'(l��P�f�1N J'eb�t;!��9566'7
induced fluorescence. Note that this tech­
nique may result in disagreement with vi­
sual results. Note also that this technique
is only applicable in those cases where
the fluorescence is caused by absorption
of ultraviolet radiation. Instruments
which can control the UV energy will
produce results more consistent with vi­
sual observation. but the.�e result� may be
harder to reproduce on other non-similar
instruments. in either case when speci­
mens are fluorescent, all specimens to be
compared must be measured on the same
instrument at nearly the same time. Previ­
ously measured data (standards, controls.
etc.) should not be used for direct com­
parison. Fluorescent specimens which
absorb visible energy cannot be measured
consistently except on an instrument
where the quantity and quality of incident
energy can be controlled. While such in­
struments do not currently exist commer­
cially, the best alternative is to use a 04
/ 5,
4510 (circumferential or bidirectional)
type measuring instrument.
A 1.2 Moisture Cont ent-If the exist­
ence of moisture affects the measurement
of color it is necessary 10 "condition" the
specimens to allow the moisture content
to stabilize. This conditioning should
take place in a room or chamber where
the temperature and humidity are con­
scant. aod enough time should be allowed
for all samples to regain moisrure to a re­
producible amount This is rypically sev­
eral hours for most specimens containing
cotton or hydroscopic fiber, but can vary
significantly with different ambienc con­
ditions. The condition of the specimen
should be maintained as much as possible
during measurement. Standard atmo­
sphere for textile testing is defined by
AATCC to be a relative humidiry of 65%
(± 5%) and ambient temperature of21 ±
2°C (70 ± 4°F) (see 7.6).
Al.3 Non-Opaque-Most textile sam­
ples are non-opaque to some extent. All
specimens must be measured using the
same procedure. Lf sufficient quantity of
material is available, it is advisable to
layer the material until light will no longer
penetrate through the layers. If the mea­
surement of the specimen backed with a
white tile is not signiticantly different to
the measurement of the same specimen
backed with a black tile, then the number
of layers is considered sufficient. Note
that many layers of soft material can cause
other problems (see Non-Rigid below)
and may require a compromise. Ln such
cases it may be necessary to use a nominal
number of layers (always the same nwn­
ber for eacb specimen measured) backed
by the same material or tile that contains
no fluorescent whitening agents.
A 1.3.l When it is not possible to
achieve complete opaciry a correction
equation may be used which yields a
corrected %R (R") value. R" is detined
AATCC Technical Manual/2017
 as the opaque reflectance of a layer so
thick that no change in reflectance is seen
between the over white and over black
measurements. This procedure requires
measurement of the specimen backed by
a white tile. and measurement of the
specimen backed by a black tile. The fol­
lowing equations are then used to pro­
duce a corrected %R value (R.) at each
wavelength interval (see 7.5):
a = 0.5 [Rw + ((Ra - Rw + R1)/
(R8R.))], then
R. =a- (a2- l}'12
where:
Rw = R of specimen backed by white tile
R8 = R ofspecimen backed by black tile
R, = R of white tile alone
Where R.,. R8 and Rg are expressed in
decimal fraction form; i.e, 0-1.0.
A 1.4 Non-Rigid -To avoid intrusion
of soft specimens into the measuring port
of the color measuring instrument use
one of the following procedures:
Al.4.1 Winding, fastening. or mount­
ing to a card or other sufficiently rigid
structure. The backing structure must b e
o f a neutral color, reproducible for all
specimens to be measured and the opac­
ity rules (see above) must be ob erved.
When yarn specimens arc wound onto
cards it is necessary to control the ten­
sion, orientation, and thickness of the ma­
terial to achieve reproducible results.
Al.4.2 A few instruments are designed
to measure specimens without con1acting
their surfaces. Specimens Lo be measured
must be flat, backed by a rigid structure
and have sufficient thickness to eliminate
any effects from non-opacity.
Al.4.3 Measurement of some specimens
behind glass increases repeatability of color
measurement for spectrophotometers, par­
ticularly on fiber and yam specimens. The
resulting reflectance measurements must
be corrected by a glass correc1ion equation,
or the effects of the glass may bias the re­
sults. In addition, the amount of material
and the pressure used to press the material
against the glass must be controlled. The
equation nonnally used is:
R,, = (Rg + Tc - I)/
(Rg +Tc-1.0-(Td * R1) +Td)
OTE: All R and T values are ex­
pre ssed in decimal fraction fonn.
where:
R: = measured %R behind glass
T< = transmittance of glass to colli­
mated light (nominally equal to
0.92 for glass with a refractive
index of I .SO and no absorption)
Td = transmittance of glass to diffuse
light (nominally eqL1ril 10 0.87
for glass as described above)
R,, = corrected % reflec tance with no
glass
OTE: See 7.4.This fonn of the glass
equation is derived from that in the refer-
AATCC Technical Manual/2017
The Amencan A.tlOOlation of Textile Che fl'llSts and Cobisls
ProYided by IHS under llcense Wtth MTCC
No toproducllon 0t netwotk.inQ pe1miued without bns.t t1om IHS
ence, page 307.
Al.S Sensitivity t o Light or Heat­
Specimens which are sensitive 10 light
and/or heat are bes1 mca.�ured in a color
measuring instrument which exposes the
specimen to light for only a brief moment
during the actual measurement Flash illu­
mination insU'Ul11ents and instruments with
automatic light shuuers provide mecha­
nisms for limiting the amount of time that
the specimen is exposed to light. Instru­
ments which must scan the visible spec­
trum (taking several seconds to perform a
single measurement) shou ld not be used
for these specimens. In all cases, sample
preparation must include precautions for
limiting the amount of light the specimen
is exposed to prior to measurement Instru­
ments which illuminaic the specimen
monochromatically are also acceptable for
measuring these types of specimens.
Al.6 Small Specimens-Specimens
which are small enough to require the use
of a SAY (small area view) option on the
color measuring instrument must be read
multiple times and averaged to improve
the precision of 1he measurement. Speci­
mens smaller than the area-of-view of the
instrument cannot be measured reliably.
Al.7 Surface Texture-The difficulty
in measuring specimens with pronounced
physical surface characteristics first lies
in the decision as to what physical at­
tribute interests the user. The ability of an
instrument to separate color from appear­
ance is an advantage in some situations,
and a disadvantage in others. When it is
advisable to measure only the color of the
specimen, the most effective means is to
mount the specimen behind glass and ap­
ply enough pressure 10 eliminate any tex­
ture differences. The same precautions
and requirements apply as in the use of
glass for non-rigid samples above. When
the texture of the surface results in direc­
tionality variation, the specimen may be
measured in multiples of 4, rotating 90°
after each measurement. All measm·e­
men1s are then averaged 10 produce a sin­
gle set of colorimetric values. An example
of such a procedure developed for auto­
motive fabrics is SAE JI 545 (see 7.3).
A 1.8 Variation in Color-When the
specimen to be mea�urccl is not uniform
in color, measurement averaging (or
spectral data from a specrrophotometer or
tristimulus value data from a colorimeter)
is necessary to achieve uniform, repro­
ducible measuremenL�. This requires de­
termining the nllmber of readings neces­
sary for the area-of-view employed
whfoh. when averaged together to pro­
duce a single result. cm1 be reproduced by
repeating the procedure at random loca­
tions on the specimen (see SAE JI 545).
A2. Transmittance Measurement Problems
and Guidelines
A2. l Chemical Instability-Solutions
Copyright 0 20 l6 American Assoc1n11bl'
.
-st�
J, lollle�
• :lt#.ll\'1(l.
EJ 1M /1/l
\ll .ll\l QF
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which are chemically unstable should not
be measured. The reason for the instabil­
ity must be dc1crmincd and an appropriate
procedure and/or solvent developed
which results in a stable solution.
A2.2 Foaming, Air Bubbles-The ad­
dition of a drop or two of isobutyl alcohol
(2-methyl propanol} will help to remove
any bubbles or foam during die specimen
preparation phase. When adding the liquid
specimen to the transmission cell, the op­
erator should hold the cell at an angle and
pour the solution down the side of the cell
to minimize the formation of air bubbles.
A2.3 pH Sensitivity-Many dyes are
sensitive to pH changes and will exhibit a
marked shift in the color of the prepared
specimen if the pH is changed. The use of
distilled water (or demineralized water)
as well as 1he addi1ion of a pH buffer dur­
ing preparation is usually required.
A2.4 Plating-Dye solutions (espe­
cially Basic Class dyes) have a tendency
to form a single layer of dye molecules
adhering to the walls o f the glass trans­
mission cell. The transmission cell should
always be rinsed (or flushed) with the so­
lution to be measured, emptied, then re­
filled with fresh solution before mea�ur­
ing the color. Note that this procedure
assumes that the cell was clean (free of
plating) prior to testing, and that all speci­
mens arc treated identically. Where prac­
tical. an instrument standardization mea­
surement should be made immediately
prior to the specimen measurement, and
after the reference cell has been similarly
flushed with the colored solution, then
filled with clear solution (usually distilled
water). If a dual beam instrument is being
used (where both a specimen and refer­
ence cell are simultaneously employed in
the measurement), the reference cell
(containing clear solution) is flushed with
the colored solution before being filled
with the clear solution. ln this case, the
normal me1hod of instrument standardiza­
tion is suflicient.
A2.5 Sensitivit y to Light or Heat
(photochromism or then11ochromism)­
When possible transmission measure­
ment should be performed using an in­
strument which illuminates the specimen
monochromatically (at a single wave­
length). If this is not possible, an instru­
ment which provides a light blocking
shutter. or which illuminates the speci­
men using a momentary flash of light
may be used 10 reduce the effect.
A2.6 Resolution (wavelength intcr­
val)-ln general. the transmission curves
for dyes in solurion have sharper, more pro­
nounced peaks than those obtained from re­
t1ectance measurement Spectrophotome­
ters which measure at wavelength intervals
of 10 nm or less are required to obtain ac­
curate, reproducible result�. In addition. the
bandpass of the instrument being used m ust
be less than or equal to 1.0 run.
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