Chapter 9

Rizal’s Grand Tour of Europe with Viola (1887)

Rizal had received Paciano’s remittance of P1,000 which was

forwarded by Juan Luna from Paris. He immediately paid Viola the sum
of P300 so that Noli could be printed.

Having paid his debt, and with adequate funds in his pocket, he’s
ready to explore Europe before returning to Calamba and Dr. Maximo
Viola agreed to be his travelling companion.

First, he and Viola visited Potsdam, a city near Berlin, which

Frederick the Great made famous.

The Tour Begins (May 11, 1887)

 Rizal and Viola, two browned-skinned doctors on a roaming spree,

left Berlin on a train.
 It was an ideal season for travel. Spring was in the air, and all over
Europe the flowers were blooming, the meadows were turning
green, and the villages were humming with activity.
 According to Viola, the luggage of Rizal included all the letters he
had received from his (Rizal’s) family and friends.
 Rizal and Viola’s destination was Dresden.

Dresden
  “One of the best cities in Germany”
 Coincided with the regional floral exposition which is one of
Rizal’s interest as he studied Botany.
 They visited Dr. Adolph B. Meyer in the Museum of Art, who was
overjoyed to see them. Rizal was impressed by the painting of
“Prometheus Bound”.
 While at the Floral Exposition, they met Dr. Jagor and upon
hearing their next destination, he advised them to wire Blumentritt
first before paying a visit in Leitmeritz (Litomerice,
Czechoslavakia).

First Meeting with Blumentritt (May 13, 1887)

 At 1:30 pm, the train with Rizal and Viola on board, arrived at the
railroad station of Leitmeritz, Bohemia.
 Professor Blumentritt a kind-hearted and an old Austrian professor
was waiting for them in the station. He was carrying a pencil
sketch of Rizal which the latter had previously sent him so that he
could identify his Filipino friend.
 They greeted each other in fluent German, upon seeing the talented
Rizal for the first time, he immediately took him into heart, loving
him as a son.
 Professor Blumentritt helped them get a room at Hotel Krebs, after
which he brought them to his home and introduced them to his
wife and family.
 They stayed in Leitmeritz from May 13 to May 16, 1887

Beautiful Memories of Leitmeritz

  Rizal enjoyed the warm hospitality of the Blumentritt family. The
professor’s wife Rosa, was a good cook, and she prepared special
Austrian dishes which Rizal liked very much. His children were
Dolores (called Dora/Dorita by Rizal), Conrad and Fritz.
 Blumentritt invited them in various occasions; as the with the
burgomaster (town mayor) went, they were impressed as to Rizal
spoke fluently in German which he learned for 11 months.
 They were then invited in a Tourist’s Club of Leitmeritz which
Rizal then spoke and got the others impressed by his good German
speaking skills.
 Rizal painted a portrait of Blumentritt as a gift for him and wrote
him and his family letters of bidding farewell.
 Rizal met another renowned scientist of Europe, Dr. Carlos
Czepelak and Professor Robert Klutschak, an eminent naturalist.
 On May 16 at 9:45 am Rizal and Viola left Leitmeritz by train.
 Rizal told Blumentritt that he forgot his diamond stickpin at his
room in Hotel Krebs.

Prague

 They carried letters of recommendation from Blumentritt to Dr.

Willkomm- a professor of natural history in the University of
Prague.
 Rizal and Viola visited the tomb of Copernicus, the famous
astronomer; the museum of natural history, the bacteriological
laboratories; the famous cave where San Juan Nepomuceno, the
 Catholic saint was imprisoned; and the bridge from which this
saint was hurled into the river.

Vienna

 May 20, 1887, Rizal and Viola arrived in the beautiful city of
Vienna, capital of Austria-Hungary.
 Famous in song and story, this city is fascinated Rizal because of
its beautiful buildings, religious images, haunting waltzes and
majestic charm.
 “Queen of the Danube”
 Norfenfals- one of the greatest novelists in Europe during that
time.
 Rizal received his lost diamond stickpin found by the maid in
Hotel Krebs.
 Rizal and Viola stayed at Hotel Metropole, they visited the city’s
interesting places such as churches, museums, art galleries,
theaters, and public parks.
 They met two good friends of Blumentritt- Masner and Nordmann,
Austrian scholars.

Danubian Voyage to Lintz

 May 24, 1887, Rizal and Viola left Vienna on a river boat to see
the beautiful sights of the Danube River.
  They noticed that the passengers on the river boat were using paper
napkins during the meals. Viola commented that the paper napkins
were “more hygienic and economical than cloth napkins”.

From Lintz to Rheinfall

 The river voyage ended in Lintz, they traveled overland to

Salzburg, and from there to Munich to savor the famous Munich
beer reputed to be the best in Germany.
 From Munich, they went to Nuremberg (one of the oldest cities of
Germany), saw horrible torture machines by the inquisition and got
impressed by the manufacture of dolls which is big in the city.
 Then they visited Ulm, the Cathedral in this is the “largest and
tallest in Germany”
 According to Viola, Rizal did not even get tired nor dizzy on their
way above the cathedral.
 From Ulm, they went to Stuttgart, Baden and then Rheinfall
(Cascade of the Rhine) which they saw the waterfall, “the most
beautiful waterfall of Europe”

Crossing the Frontier to Switzerland

 From Rheinfall, they crossed the frontier to Schaffhausen,

Switzerland. They stayed in this city from June 2 to June 3, 1887.
They continued their tour to Basel (Bale), Bern and Lausanne.
Geneva

 After sightseeing in Lausanne, Rizal and Viola left on a little boat,

crossing the foggy Leman Lake to Geneva.
 June 19, 1887- Rizal’s 26th birthday, he celebrated his birthday
with a sumptuous meal with Viola.
 They spent 15 delightful days in Geneva
 June 23, 1887- Viola returned to Barcelona while Rizal continued
the tour to Italy.

Rizal Resents Exhibition of Igorots in 1187 Madrid Exposition

 While on Europe an exposition of the Philippines was held in

Madrid, Spain. A sad news from his friends in Madrid of the
deplorable conditions of the primitive Igorots who were exhibited
in this exposition. Some of them died and whose scanty clothing
(G-strings) and crude of weapons were objects of mockery and
laugher by the Spanish people and press.
 Rizal was outraged by this degradation of his fellow countrymen
the Igorots of Northern Luzon.

Rizal in Italy

 From Geneva, Rizal went to Italy. He visited Turin, Milan, Venice

and Florence.
 On June 27, 1887, he reached Rome, the “Eternal City” and also
called the “City of the Caesars”
 He was thrilled by the sights and memories of the Eternal City.
Describing to Blumentritt, the “grandeur that was Rome” he wrote
on June 27, 1887.
 On June 29th, the Feast Day of St. Peter and St. Pau, Rizal visited
for the first time the Vatican (City of the Popes) and the capital of
Christendom, he was deeply impressed by the magnificent edifices,
particularly of St. Peter’s Square, the colorful papal guards and the
atmosphere of religious devotions that pervaded the Vatican.
 Every night, after sightseeing the whole day, Rizal returned to his
hotel, very tired. “I am tired as a dog”, he wrote to Blumentritt,
“but I will sleep as a god”
 After a week of wonderful sojourn in Rome, he prepared to return
to the Philippines. He had already written to his father that he was
coming home.