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Journal of Cleaner Production 162 (2017) 109e120

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Journal of Cleaner Production


journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/jclepro

Review

Why determinants of green purchase cannot be treated equally? The


case of green cosmetics: Literature review
Genovaite_ Liobikiene_ a, b, *, Jurga Bernatoniene_ b
a
Department of Environmental Sciences, Vytautas Magnus University, Vileikos st. 8, LT-44404 Kaunas, Lithuania
b
Department of Drug Technology and Social Pharmacy, Lithuanian University of Health Sciences, Sukileliu str. 13, LT-50161 Kaunas, Lithuania

a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t

Article history: Promotion of green purchasing is one of the ways to minimize the environmental impact of products and
Received 12 January 2017 achieve sustainability. The research on green marketing and green purchase behavior has recently
Received in revised form become a subject of study. This review of 80 papers published from 2011 to 2017 on green purchase
30 May 2017
behavior revealed that most of the studies were conducted during the last three years. Moreover, the
Accepted 31 May 2017
review showed that authors obtained different results of the analysis of the green products in general
(including all green products) purchase behavior. Thus, we suggested that the future researchers consider
^ as de
Handling Editor: Cecilia Maria Villas Bo categories to which particular green products could be attributed, since different factors influence the
Almeida purchase of separate products differently. In addition, we proposed a model for the analysis of green
personal care products purchase behavior, giving particular attention to the health consciousness as the
Keywords: main determinant with brand and quality variables, in regard to the color and styling cosmetics products.
Green products This study provides insight for future research, policy makers and marketing managers seeking the
Green cosmetics promotion of green products purchase behavior.
Determinant of purchase behavior
© 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
Sustainable consumption

Contents

1. Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
2. Research methodology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
2.1. Selection process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
2.2. Content analysis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
2.3. Material evaluation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
3. Descriptive analysis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
3.1. Distribution across the time period . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
3.2. The studies of green products purchase behavior according to products categories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
3.3. The determinants of general GPs purchase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
4. The tendencies of green purchase studies in general and according to product categories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
4.1. The differences of determinants of purchase of GPs in general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
4.1.1. Impact of internal factors on green purchase behavior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
4.1.2. Impact of social factors on green purchase behavior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
4.1.3. Impact of external factors on green purchase behavior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
4.2. The classification of GPs and its main determinants of purchase behavior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
4.2.1. The determinants of organic food purchase behavior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
4.2.2. The determinants of green luxury and durable goods purchase behavior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
4.2.3. The determinants of green cosmetics purchase behavior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
5. Discussion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
5.1. Why the determinants of green product purchase cannot be treated equally? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116

* Corresponding author. Department of Environmental Sciences, Vytautas Mag-


nus University, Vileikos st. 8, LT-44404 Kaunas, Lithuania.
_
E-mail address: g.liobikiene@gmf.vdu.lt (G. Liobikiene).

http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.05.204
0959-6526/© 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
110 _ J. Bernatoniene_ / Journal of Cleaner Production 162 (2017) 109e120
G. Liobikiene,

5.2. Green cosmetics and a suggested model of green personal care products and color cosmetics purchase behavior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
6. Conclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
Further references not included in the review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120

1. Introduction products into groups. Considering that purchase of products of


different categories is determined by distinct factors (Liobikiene_
The depletion of natural resources, climate change, air pollution et al., 2016), the necessity of the product specification is high-
and waste generation are the main environmental problems which lighted in this paper. Moreover, Joshi and Rahman (2015) presented
the policy should cope with. Over the last decade, great efforts have only the factors and their impact on GPs purchase; meanwhile, this
been put into policies aimed at production processes. However, review proposed a classification system for internal, social and
only in recent years the importance of the consumption perspective external factors determining the green purchase behavior. It was
has been highlighted, as high levels of consumption threaten the convenient and practical for analysis of the determinants of broad
quality of the environment and the processes of sustainable categories of products purchase.
development (Tukker et al., 2010; Liu et al., 2010; Liobikiene_ and In this study, as the case, the exclusive attention was paid to the
Dagiliu te,
_ 2016). The main aim of sustainable consumption is not purchase behavior of green cosmetics products, as currently there
to worsen the environmental quality by growth of goods and ser- is an imbalance between the growing use of organic cosmetics and
vices, not to reduce the consumption but to reduce its environ- the limited attention from researchers to this product category. The
mental impact. One of the main tools to achieve the sustainable product group of green cosmetics is very broad (it encompasses
consumption is to increase purchase of environmentally friendly products such as styling gels or mousses, fragrances (cologne,
products (in this paper we entitle them green products (GPs)). The essence, light essence, perfume, light perfume, etc.), color or make-
consumption of GPs could be a way to minimize the environmental up (lipstick, blush, compact powder, eyebrow pencil, etc.) cos-
impact (Mont and Plepys, 2008; Elliott, 2013; Ritter et al., 2015). metics, and personal care products (creams, lotions, oils, shampoos,
The research work regarding green marketing and GPs purchase soaps, cleansers, and even toothpaste) (Wu and Chen, 2012;
behavior started in late 1960s, however, the main studies appeared at Ecocert, 2012; Patel et al., 2015). Therefore, it is important as well
the end of 80sda time period that also saw a rise in eco-labeling to consider the categories of green cosmetics while analyzing the
(D’Souza et al., 2006; Horne, 2009; Coleman et al., 2011; Smith and main determinants of these products. Thus, this paper reviewed the
Brower, 2012; Braimah, 2015). The green marketing has received studies on green cosmetics purchase behavior and proposed a
increased attention due to the environmental deterioration related to model for the analysis of determinants of make-up, styling and
the rising level of consumption (Kumar, 2010). Thus, in a broad sense personal care products purchasing behavior.
the green marketing activities facilitate exchanges, which satisfy The literature review was conducted aiming to collect and
consumer needs and wants by minimizing the impact of these ac- analyze all relevant papers. The research methodology is described
tivities on the physical environment via: a) reduction of waste in in section 2, descriptive analysis (distribution of papers in a period
packaging; b) growth in resource use efficiency, and c) decrease of of time, product categories and main factors of green product
chemical and toxic emissions and other pollutants in production and purchase) is presented in section 3. In section 4, the material
use (Majumdar and Swain, 2015). Therefore, in general the GPs are evaluation is discussed. The discussion and model of green cos-
referred to as having a lesser impact on the environment and metics purchase behavior is proposed in section 5, while section 6
damaging human health less than traditional products, hence the produces the main conclusions.
term sustainable or environmentally friendly products (Janssen and
Jager, 2002; Albino et al., 2009; Chairy, 2012; Tsai, 2012; Tseng and
Hung, 2013; Biswas and Roy, 2015; Zhao and Zhong, 2015). 2. Research methodology
Braimah (2015) has recently stated that market for green brands
is growing exponentially at global level. These trends are related to 2.1. Selection process
increasing social and political pressures as many companies have
adopted green marketing strategies, and thus environmental issues This paper used the review methodology suggested by Mayring
became a competitive advantage (D’Souza et al., 2006; Coleman (2002) and Seuring and Müller (2008). The primary search for
et al., 2011; Subhani et al., 2012). Moreover, the studies (see related publications from 2011 to 2017 was conducted as a struc-
Oana, 2014; Kong et al., 2014) have shown that the demand of green ture keywords search. The main keywords were: “green products”,
(organic) products has increased significantly in recent years as “consumption of environmentally friendly products“, “organic
well, and, from the perspective of environment, it is evaluated very products”, “sustainable consumption”, “green purchase behavior”
positively. and “pro-environmental consumer”. Major databases (Scopus)
The determinants of GPs intention and purchase behavior have were used to search for related papers in peer-reviewed scientific
been explored in the vast number of research works. Joshi and journals in English. For selection of relevant studies, the following
Rahman (2015) presented a review of empirical articles on con- selection criteria were applied: (1) the study should have been
sumer green purchase behavior published in reputed academic published during 2011e2017; (2) the study should be empirical in
journals from 2000 to 2014. Their review focused on studies that nature; (3) the study should discuss or explain the various factors
sought to identify factors affecting green purchase behavior (except affecting consumer green purchase intention or behavior. More-
demographic variables). The main limitation of their review is over, this review considered not only the papers which analyze the
focusing on general research of GPs purchase and not separating determinants of general green purchase behavior (intention) but
also the ones analyzing the purchase determinants of separate
_ J. Bernatoniene_ / Journal of Cleaner Production 162 (2017) 109e120
G. Liobikiene, 111

product groups, such as green (organic) food, cosmetics, clothing, majority of studies analyzed the determinants of GPs purchase
luxury items, durable and carbon offset products. Taking the stated behavior and intention in general, i.e. without separating products
delimitations into account, a total of 80 papers were reviewed. into categories. The main items assessing the general purchase
behavior (intentions) are: “I will consider buying products because
2.2. Content analysis they are less polluting in coming times”, “I will consider switching
to environmental friendly brands for ecological reasons”, “I feel
Descriptive dimensions were used to classify the papers in the more comfortable when I use green products rather than normal
first step of evaluation. The content of the papers was further ones”, “I aim to buy green products again after my first purchase”, “I
assessed by means of a descriptive analysis: 1) what is the distri- would recommend green products to my friends and family”, “I
bution of papers across the time period? 2) Which category of expect to purchase product in the future because of its positive
products is the most analyzed? 3) In terms of green products in environmental contribution”. However, respondents were asked
general, which factor (determinant) in the studies is analyzed the about purchase of GPs in general and such a generality could lead to
most frequently? In order to review the distribution of papers confusion. One group of consumers asked about purchase of GPs
across the time period and product categories, each publication was could be more concerned about organic food, another about the
assigned to exactly one category. However, reviewing the frequency energy efficiency or durability of products. Due to this, the de-
of factors included in analysis of GPs purchase behavior, one article terminants of purchase behavior might differ. Moreover, some au-
was attributed to more than one category; it depends on how many thors (see: Almossawi, 2014; Majumdar and Swain, 2015) have
factors were analyzed in the study. Thus, this analysis helped to found that the preferences of people regarding the eco-friendly
reveal the main topics of studies. Moreover, in this part there was products varied among the product categories as well. Bernard
suggested the classification system of factors determining the et al. (2015) also have showed that consumer familiarity with
purchase behavior, which was applied for the material evaluation. environmental information varies across product categories, and
they highlighted that it is crucial to understand the differences in
2.3. Material evaluation consumer behavior across product categories.
The analyses of determinants of organic food and environ-
The material analysis was divided into two subsections. In the mentally friendly luxury and durable goods purchase behavior are
first subsection, the determinants of green purchase behavior were second by their frequency. This is related to the fact that the de-
analyzed encompassing those studies which considered only GPs in mand and marketing of these products are developing very fast,
general. Thus, in this part, the differences and similarities of studies and the implementation of sustainable consumption and produc-
and the reasons of these occurrences were revealed. In the second tion of these categories is very important. Meanwhile, the green
subsection, there were studies reviewed which analyzed the pur- cosmetics, clothing and fashion products purchase behavior is
chasing determinants of GPs of these categories: organic food, scarcely analyzed (Fig. 2 and Table. 1). Thus, in the near future, the
durable and luxury products. Particular attention was paid to the interest in these products purchase behavior should grow, as
green cosmetic products and determinants of purchase behavior. environmentally friendly lifestyle includes all the categories of
According to the findings, the model for the analysis of de- consumption.
terminants of green personal care and color or makeup (and styl-
ing) products purchasing behavior was proposed. 3.3. The determinants of general GPs purchase

3. Descriptive analysis Analyzing the determinants of GPs purchase in general the au-
thors have referred to different theories. The main theories that
3.1. Distribution across the time period were applied: i) Consumption Value theory (takes into consider-
ation functional, social, epistemic, conditional and environmental
The basic body of literature encompasses 80 papers in the values) (Lin and Huang, 2012; Biswas and Roy, 2015; Suki, 2016); ii)
research period of 2011e2017. Joshi and Rahman (2015) presented the Theory of Reasoned Action (Coleman et al., 2011); and iii) the
a review of empirical articles on consumer green purchase behavior extended Theory of Planned Behavior (Kumar, 2012; Wu and Chen,
published in reputed academic journals from 2000 to 2014 which 2014; Paul et al., 2016; Liobikiene_ et al., 2016; Kumar et al., 2017),
included only 53 papers. Thus, there were more studies conducted which encompasses the attitude towards the behavior, subjective
during the last seven years than during 14 years from the beginning norms and perceived behavioral control factors (Ajzen, 1991). Other
of the 21st century. authors proposed various hypotheses and analyzed different
Most studies were conducted in the previous three years
(2014e2016). Moreover, despite that 2017 has just begun, 6 articles
have already been published. It shows that the studies of green
purchase behavior and its determinants are very relevant and
topical. Seeking to implement the sustainable consumption and
production policy the findings of these studies have important
implications for marketers and policy makers. These researches not
only reveal how to promote the GPs purchase but show the effec-
tiveness of applied tools (subsidies, advertisement) implementing
the sustainable consumption and production policy as well.
Therefore, we assume that in near future the studies in this field
will not recede but will grow even more.

3.2. The studies of green products purchase behavior according to


products categories

As it is summarized in Fig. 1 and Table 1 (in the appendix), the Fig. 1. Distribution of publications per year across the analyzed period.
112 _ J. Bernatoniene_ / Journal of Cleaner Production 162 (2017) 109e120
G. Liobikiene,

who are close/important to the person, such as friends, relatives,


colleagues. Moreover, social norms involve an individual’s feeling of
social pressure towards certain behavior. Consumers with positive
social norms towards given behavior would purchase more GPs.
Accessibility (convenience level) or perceived behavioral control
is the factor revealing whether the consumer can easily consume a
certain product, or whether its consumption is difficult or impos-
sible. Usually this indicator shows the ability (time, money, enough
supply) to purchase green products and whether GPs are easily
available in shops, or whether environmentally-friendly products
are good value for money. In the studies this factor was considered
in almost one third of papers (Fig. 3). Thus, the ability to purchase
GPs can be one of the main indicators which can promote or be the
barrier in the green purchase process.
The impact of attitude toward purchase of GPs on GPs purchase
Fig. 2. The products categories in the studies. was analyzed in 10 papers. This indicator was assessed as a degree
up to which the person favors the behavior in question and includes
judgment on whether the behavior is good or bad, and whether the
factors (prices, environmental concern, etc.) as determinants of GPs
respondent wants to behave that way. The factor of perceived con-
purchase in general.
sumer effectiveness also relates attitude with consumer behavior.
The factors (determinants) analyzed taking into account the
However, in this case it describes the ability to affect outcomes and
purchase behavior of GPs in general are presented in Fig. 3 and
shows stable beliefs about the effectiveness of consumers’ choices.
Table 2 (see appendix). They are: environmental concern (attitude,
In literature, this indicator was included in 9 papers (Fig. 3).
values), environmental consciousness, environmental knowledge,
The impact of price and eco-label (brand) on purchase behavior
perception of consequences (responsibility), perceived consumer
were analyzed in 6 and 7 papers, respectively. These studies revealed
effectiveness, attitude towards GPs (green consumption), health
that higher price due to additional costs of better raw materials and
consciousness (quality of life), values (altruism, self-enhancement,
labeling authentication could be the reason not to buy green prod-
etc.), price, eco-labeling (brand), trust and accessibility (conve-
ucts, and the eco-brand can promote these products. Meanwhile, the
nience). The environmental attitude (concern) is the most
trust (confidence level) and the environmental consciousness were
frequently included factor in the studies. From 38 papers, this in-
analyzed only in 4 papers (Fig. 3). The trust is defined as willingness
dicator was included in 19 studies. The environmental attitude
to depend on objective based on the belief or expectation resulting
(concern) is based on how respondents value the importance of
from its credibility and reliability regarding environmental perfor-
environment components, problems and protection of the envi-
mance. The environmental consciousness assesses the presence of
ronment. The majority of authors assume that environmental at-
environmental resources, their cost of use and the impact of this use
titudes are very important in the process of GPs purchase.
to the environment and themselves. This indicator encompasses the
The factor of environmental knowledge is vastly analyzed as
dimensions of environmental attitude and the perceived re-
well. In more than one third of papers this indicator was considered
sponsibility of behavior. Thus, the environmental consciousness
(Fig. 3). Knowledge is the amount of environmental information
should absolutely contribute to the green purchase behavior.
held in one’s memory that affects the way in which consumers
The least frequently in the papers was analyzed the impact on
interpret and assess available preferences (Tan, 2011). In the studies
purchase behavior of values, perception of consequences (re-
the role of environmental knowledge was more often analyzed as
sponsibility) and health consciousnesse only in 2 papers (Fig. 3).
mediation of attitudes towards green consumption or confidence
The values (altruism, egoism, biospherism) and perception of
level (Kumar, 2012; Liobikiene_ et al., 2016; Kumar et al., 2017). Thus,
consequences are the factors of the theory of Value-Belief-Norms,
the environmental knowledge is related with attitude to environ-
which is usually applied analyzing the environmentally friendly
ment or GPs first, and then it influences the purchase behavior.
behavior. However, in terms of green purchase behavior this theory
The social norms as the perceived social pressure to perform or
is not applied and is left for future research. We assume that the
not to perform the behavior are the third indicator by frequency
health consciousness as the positive belief on health and health
which was included in 13 papers (Fig. 3). This indicator is related
concern is not suitable for the studies of GPs purchase in general
with social conditions and encompasses the influences of others
because this factor is prevalent in the studies of health related
products such as food or cosmetic.
Reviewing the determinants of GPs purchase behavior which can
be kept in check, it was noticed that all factors could be classified.
Therefore, there was proposed a classification system separating the
factors into: a) internal factors, which encompass attitudes, values,
awareness; b) social factors, and c) external factors, which are
related to the external circumstances (Fig. 4). According to this
classification most studies were conducted examining the internal
factors as the environmental attitude, the perception of environ-
mental friendly behavior, etc. (Liobikiene_ et al., 2016). However,
these analyses are rather simplex because other factors, such as
social context and different circumstances, are also very important
in the purchase behavior and can contribute more than internal
factors. For example, respondents can be very environmentally
aware; however, they do not buy green products because cannot
Fig. 3. The frequency of analyzed determinants of purchase of GPs in general. afford them. (Liobikiene_ et al., 2017). Therefore, analyzing the
_ J. Bernatoniene_ / Journal of Cleaner Production 162 (2017) 109e120
G. Liobikiene, 113

determinants of green purchase behavior, it is very important to et al. (2015) have stated that environmental concern had no effect on
include in the models factors attributed to all dimensions (internal, the declared purchase of GPs. Braimah (2015) has revealed that other
social, and external), in order to reveal the tools necessary for the determinants, such as price and brand name, performed better than
promotion of GPs purchase behavior. consumers’ concerns for green issues influencing the purchase de-
It is noteworthy that this classification system is convenient and cisions. These authors revealed that there exists a gap between at-
practical for analyzing determinants of purchase of broad cate- titudes and behavior, which can be caused by ingredient habits,
gories of products. Moreover, it is useful in the review process. This affordability, not satisfied expectations of GPs in the marketplace
classification was applied reviewing the findings of researches (Tseng and Hung, 2013). Therefore, the future researches analyzing
concerning the green purchase behavior. the impact of environmental attitudes on green purchase should
consider this gap between attitude and behavior.
4. The tendencies of green purchase studies in general and Reviewing the findings of environmental awareness (Boztepe,
according to product categories 2012; Ritter et al., 2015; Suki et al., 2016), all authors confirmed
that this indicator affected buying of GPs behavior. With the increase
Authors analyzing the determinants of green purchase behavior of environmental pollution and consciousness of environmental
referred to different theories and included various factors in their protection, there is observed the growth of awareness of green
models. The major part of studies analyzed purchase of GPs in products and the decrease of use of harmful to the environment
general, while other authors considered specific categories of products. All authors analyzing the impact on GPs purchase of
products. In the following part of paper, adopting the proposed perceived consumer effectiveness (green consumption self-efficacy)
classification system (Fig. 4) for the data related to the general and attitudes toward GPs or green purchase behavior (see: Coleman
analysis of the GPs (including all green products), we showed the et al., 2011; Tan, 2011; Kumar, 2012; Chen and Chang, 2012; Lin and
results obtained by the main authors, which were partially dis- Hsu, 2015; Wang et al., 2014; Kong et al., 2014; Kanchanapibul et al.,
cussed in Joshi and Rahman (2015) study. Further in this section, 2014; Wu and Chen, 2014; Biswas and Roy, 2015; Kabadayi et al.,
there are reviewed findings about the determinants of green pur- 2015; Suki, 2016; Kumar et al., 2017) equally supported the idea
chase behavior considering product categories. This part encour- that these determinants are significant in determining consumers’
ages future researches to consider categories to which particular involvement (intentions) as well as their actual purchase behavior.
green products could be attributed. Ritter et al. (2015) and Azizan and Suki (2014) showed that health
consciousness also significantly determined the green purchase
4.1. The differences of determinants of purchase of GPs in general behavior. However, in this case, the respondents asked about the
consumption of GPs were more concerned about food or cosmetic
4.1.1. Impact of internal factors on green purchase behavior products directly related with human health.
The internal factors in the studies of green purchase were
analyzed the most often; however, their findings were different. 4.1.2. Impact of social factors on green purchase behavior
Taking into account the environmental attitude (concern, values, Considering various groups of social factors, the vast number of
perceived seriousness of environmental problems), authors (see: research studies have declared that social context (or social sanc-
Tan, 2011; Chen and Chang, 2012; Paço et al., 2013; Almossawi, 2014; tions) encouraged consumers to purchase GPs, and it was one of the
Wang et al., 2014; Azizan and Suki, 2014; Biswas and Roy, 2015; dominant factors influencing sustainable consumption (Lin and
Ritter et al., 2015; Chekima et al., 2016; Goh and Balaji, 2016; Lai Hsu, 2015; Wu and Chen, 2014; Biswas and Roy, 2015; Ritter
and Cheng, 2016; Moser, 2016; Paul et al., 2016) have found that et al., 2015; Liobikiene_ et al., 2016; Suki et al., 2016; Suki, 2016).
those determinants significantly influenced green purchase inten- Liobikiene_ et al. (2017) also found that the more people agree that
tion and behavior. People for whom the environment and its prob- buying green products can make a real difference to the environ-
lems were important were more likely to purchase GPs for the sake ment and set a good example to others, and that their family or
of environment. Newton et al. (2015) have revealed the direct effect friends support this behavior, the more often they buy green
of environmental concern on environmental purchase intentions products.
(mediated by intentional and incidental learning). Meanwhile, Junior Moreover, analyzing the social norms impact on green purchase,
there is a very important cultural aspect to consider, like the index of
individualism and collectivism. Kumar (2012) has found that the
subjective norms are positively related to the level of collectivism. In
more collectivistic countries the social norms determined the green
purchase behavior more. Liobikiene_ et al. (2016) revealed that the
level of subjective norms in EU significantly depended on individ-
ualism level; however, the dependence was negative. Therefore, the
future researches analyzing the influence of social norms should
consider the countries’ collectivism (or individualism) dimension.
Meanwhile, the other authors (see Kumar, 2012, Paul et al.,
2016; Kumar et al., 2017) have found that subjective norms were
related to purchase intention insignificantly. This may occur
because some respondents did not feel that “going green” increases
social approval or makes a good impression. Likewise, Lin and
Huang (2012) have declared that social value did not have a sig-
nificant impact on behavior choice regarding green products even
in collectivistic societies. Considering social norms it is important to
distinct whether the social norms are related with hedonistic or
normative goals. According to the hedonistic perspective, the social
norms are important because they increase the social status of a
Fig. 4. Classification of factors determining the purchase behavior. person. In terms of normative goal, people are motivated to
114 _ J. Bernatoniene_ / Journal of Cleaner Production 162 (2017) 109e120
G. Liobikiene,

purchase more GPs because they think that this behavior protects also declared that premium price had no moderating effect, thus
the environment and it is the right thing to do, and that it con- denying its role as one of the main barriers for consumers. Liobikiene_
tributes to wellbeing of other people. Thus, the future researches et al. (2016) found that the importance of prices significantly
should reveal in more detail the role of environmentally friendly determined the green purchase behavior only in a few European
social norms in green purchase behavior, which should be sepa- countries. Moreover, Suki (2016) revealed that the price as functional
rated and attributed to the hedonistic or normative goals value had no significant effect on environmental concern expressed
(Liobikiene_ et al., 2017). as purchase of GP in general. Thus, in terms of price impact on green
purchase behavior, the income level is another factor related with
4.1.3. Impact of external factors on green purchase behavior price effect on the purchase of green products (Grankvist and Biel,
The findings about external factors’ impact on GPs purchase are 2007; Paço and Raposo, 2010). The lower the income level, the
inconsistent as well. Taking into account the environmental more important price is in the decision process regarding buying
knowledge, the most authors (see Tan, 2011; Wang et al., 2014; GPs. Therefore, in this case, the ratio between income and price level
Almossawi, 2014; Azizan and Suki, 2014; Kanchanapibul et al., is a more suitable indicator than the price.
2014; Ritter et al., 2015; Biswas and Roy, 2015; Goh and Balaji, Similar results have been observed considering other external
2016) have discovered that knowledge has a positive relationship factors, as influence of eco-labeling (Boztepe, 2012; Smith and
with intention and purchase of GPs. The environmental informa- Brower, 2012; Azizan and Suki, 2014; Kong et al., 2014; Braimah,
tion guides consumers by pointing out the environmentally pref- 2015; Chekima et al., 2016) and confidence (trust) level on pur-
erable products among otherwise equal ones and engages citizens chase behavior (Chen and Chang, 2012; Tseng and Hung, 2013;
to purchase these products. However, Lin and Hsu (2015) showed Liobikiene_ et al., 2016). The authors revealed that these factors
that the influence on green consumer behavior of knowledge about significantly influenced the GPs purchase behavior. Therefore, policy
climate change and the mass media was not significant. Kong et al. makers should promote the implementation of strict, clear and fair
(2014) also showed that green advertising had no significant green labeling policy, and companies must enhance their green trust
impact on consumer intention to purchase GPs. Kumar et al. (2017) in order to raise green purchase behavior (Chen and Chang, 2012).
indicated that environmental knowledge does not necessarily
result in significant linkage between knowledge about GPs and 4.2. The classification of GPs and its main determinants of purchase
green consumer behavior. This factor may be a mediated variable behavior
for attitudes towards green consumption and confidence level
(Kumar, 2012; Liobikiene_ et al., 2016; Kumar et al., 2017). Referring The goods are commonly classified into two categories: the
to Frick et al. (2004), the environmental knowledge is divided into necessity and luxury goods. According to the purchase frequency,
three levels: systemic (knowledge about environmental problems, the goods are divided into everyday products and non-everyday
components), action related (knowledge about how to behave) and products. Also, goods can be durable and quickly consumed.
effectiveness related (knowledge about behavior impact on envi- Generally, the necessity goods, which are consumed daily, are
ronment). However, the influence of systematic, action related and mainly sold in retail stores and have a short consumption life, they
effective knowledge on green purchase behavior has not been are chosen habitually and are considered as low-involvement
analyzed yet. Therefore, in studies of the environmental knowledge products. Meanwhile, the decision making process of purchase of
impact on green purchase behavior, it is important to consider the luxury and durable goods, such as electronic ones, are more com-
classification of knowledge. plex, and the purchase of these products is not so frequent
Considering the convenience (accessibility) level, Braimah (Achabou and Dekhili, 2013). Therefore, the determinants of pur-
(2015) has revealed that it influences the purchase decision, chase of necessity or luxury (durable) goods should be different.
while Liobikiene_ et al. (2016) showed that only in four European The next subsections review the main findings about determinants
Union countries this variable determined the green purchase by separate product categories.
behavior. Grimmer et al. (2016) revealed that purchase situation
moderates the intention-behavior relationship, with availability 4.2.1. The determinants of organic food purchase behavior
and ease of purchase influencing the relationship. Kumar (2012), Organic food provides long-term benefits to both people and the
Wang et al. (2014), Wu and Chen (2014) and Paul et al. (2016) environment, such as increased soil fertility, pest and disease
also found that perceived behavioral control (which reflects the control without pesticides, safe quality of water resources (Vermeir
convenience level) significantly predicts purchase intention. Lin and Verbeke, 2008; Yazdanpanah and Forouzani, 2015). Analyzing
and Huang (2012) and Biswas and Roy (2015) supported the hy- the purchase of organic food, which is attributed to necessity goods,
pothesis that conditional values, such as environmentally friendly and applying the Theory of planed behavior, the authors have found
products being easily acquirable, influence the GP purchase as well. that subjective norms are the main underlying factor driving the
Meanwhile, Suki (2016) revealed that conditional values had no organic food consumption (de Maya et al., 2011; Rezai et al., 2012).
significant effect on environmental concern expressed as purchase However, Yazdanpanah and Forouzani (2015) indicated that, while
of GP in general. In this case, it is important to consider not only the the attitude was the main predictor of intention to purchase
convenience level but also the quantity of supply. organic foods, the perceived behavior control and subjective norms
The findings about the price impact on purchase behavior are also were not significant predictors of intention.
inconsistent. Boztepe (2012) and Braimah (2015) confirmed that One of the main indicators of organic food purchase behavior is the
price clearly was picked as the most relevant determinant in influ- attitude towards the health (or health consciousness), as food con-
encing their respondents purchase decisions. Liobikiene_ et al. (2017) sumption is directly related to the human health. Teng and Lu (2016)
showed that people for whom the price was important in purchase have found that three sub-dimensions of organic consumption mo-
decision process seldom bought green products. Thus, the price level tives: health consciousness, food safety concern, and ecological mo-
is the main barrier in terms of green purchase behavior, and the tives, are all positively related to consumers’ involvement with
decrease of prices of green products could obviously promote the organic foods. The importance of health aspect has also been
green purchase behavior. However, Ritter et al. (2015) indicated that confirmed by other authors (see Rezai et al., 2012; Schleenbecker and
the relationship between price and quality does not play a central Hamm, 2013; Majumdar and Swain, 2015; Lee and Yun, 2015).
role in the decision to consume green products. Chekima et al. (2016) Hemmerling et al. (2015) have conducted a literature review of
_ J. Bernatoniene_ / Journal of Cleaner Production 162 (2017) 109e120
G. Liobikiene, 115

organic food consumption and stated that health, taste, safety, and unwanted exposure to preservatives, synthetic ingredients, hor-
environmental protection are the main purchasing motives for mones, bioengineering products, and pesticide residues are more
organic foods. Lee and Hwang (2016) have also revealed that food likely to use green (organic) cosmetics. Consequently, the demand
safety and eco-friendliness appear to be more powerful drivers of of green cosmetics has increased exceptionally (Ferrer et al., 2012).
quality perception than price is, which further influences organic food In Europe, the market for organic cosmetics had been growing 20%
purchase intention. Bradu et al. (2014) showed that the traceability per year and, according to the advance calculations, represented
label has a significant impact on willingness to buy a chocolate bar. almost 30% of the total cosmetics sales in 2015 (Organic Monitor,
Meanwhile, the lack of consumer trust is a barrier for development of 2011). The main requirements for green cosmetics are that the in-
organic food market (Nuttavuthisit and Thøgersen, 2017). gredients should be environmentally-friendly, i.e., grown without
pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, toxic materials, genetically modi-
4.2.2. The determinants of green luxury and durable goods fied organisms or ionizing radiation. Thus, green cosmetics guar-
purchase behavior antee environmental conservation all along the production line, a
The environmentally friendly durable and luxury goods encom- respect for consumers and utilization of natural materials of su-
pass all energy efficient (and environmentally friendly) appliances, perior ecological quality for better health.
equipment, light bulbs, vehicles, furniture, etc. Taking into account Authors (see Mueller, 2006; Essoussi and Zahaf, 2008; Kim and
the studies of luxury and durable goods purchase, Zhao et al. (2014) Chung, 2011; Kalita, 2014), analysing the green cosmetics, declared
have found that environmental attitudes are the most significant that some similarities are expected to exist between organic food
predictors of energy efficient household appliances and light bulbs and organic cosmetics purchase behavior. Primarily, food products,
purchasing. Yang and Zhao (2015) have explored the energy-efficient as well as cosmetics, are seen as low-involvement products which
and renewable energy equipment purchase and showed that family entail minimal effort and consideration before a purchase decision
income positively moderates the relationship between the equip- (Mueller, 2006). Furthermore, the ingredients are one of the most
ment purchase attitude and behavioral intention, and subsidy in- important product attributes in choosing the food and cosmetic
centives positively affect the moderating effect of family income. product which is directly related with human health. However,
Nguyen et al. (2016) have revealed that biospheric values some differences between these two product categories are ex-
encourage active engagement in energy efficient household appli- pected. Unlike food products, cosmetic products affect consumers’
ances purchase behavior by enhancing consumers’ attitudes towards appearances and consumers use these products to manage their
environmental protection, their subjective norms and environ- appearances (Marcoux, 2000).
mental self-identity, and by mitigating their perceived inconve- Applying the proposed classification (in Fig. 4) and considering
nience associated with eco-friendly products. Achabou and Dekhili internal factors, Kim and Chung (2011) have highlighted that health
(2013), when analyzing purchase behavior of green luxury goods, consciousness is the most important factor influencing attitude
emphasized that despite the increasing consumer concerns about towards organic cosmetics (personal care products), and in decision
preservation of the planet the responsible behavior of purchasing the process this factor is the most considered. Consumers believe that
brand remains a secondary selection criterion. The consumers of green products are better for their body, are safer than traditional
luxury goods primarily focus on the intrinsic quality of the product. cosmetics (Hall, 2008; Pearson and Henryks, 2008) and promote a
Angelis et al. (2017) also confirmed that a brand is very important in healthy lifestyle by containing ingredients which are beneficial for
terms of green luxury products. Moreover, Davies et al. (2012) have body and skin (Kim and Chung, 2011; Rezai et al., 2012). Moreover,
showed that many luxury consumers do not see environmental people who strongly desire to maintain a youthful look and
protection as a factor of primary importance to the point that improve their appearance look for chemical-free products. Thus,
emphasizing sustainability may lower their overall perception of Kim and Chung (2011) revealed that appearance consciousness is
luxury goods’ quality. Meanwhile, Steinhart et al. (2013) found that an important predictor of consumers’ attitudes towards organic
the environmental claim may improve evaluations of luxury prod- personal care products as well.
ucts by providing available justification to indulge and use luxuries. Aside from the increasing concern about the effects of in-
Medeiros and Ribeiro (2017) indicated the important green at- gredients on health, several authors (see Pervin et al., 2014;
tributes for automobiles, such as “economy”, “engine” and “new Tamashiro et al., 2014; Patel et al., 2015) have indicated that the
technologies”. Regarding furniture, green attributes, such as environmental concern has an impact on the preference for green
“design”, “origin label” and “origin of the raw material”, were indi- cosmetics. Consumers who believe that the use of organic cos-
cated as important. Knez et al. (2014) have declared that the most metics would help to save the environment and reduce the use of
relevant factor for purchasing a low emission vehicle is the total chemicals are more likely to buy green cosmetic products (Pervin
vehicle price. Wu et al. (2015) have supported the argument that et al., 2014). In the context of personal care products, Kim and
image, risk, value, and perceived usefulness are key determinants of Chung (2011) and Hsu et al. (2017) found that the attitude to-
electric motorcycle purchase intention. Rudolph (2016) has showed wards buying organic products has significant impact on purchase
that subsidizing zero emission vehicles may increase the likelihood intention of green skincare products as well.
of choosing an alternatively propelled vehicle. Taking into account the social factors which engage consumers
in the cosmetic purchase due to the perceived encouragement from
4.2.3. The determinants of green cosmetics purchase behavior their family, friend or colleague, expert, sale representative and
Cosmetics are substances used to enhance the appearance or presenter or celebrity endorsement, Kim and Chung (2011) and Hsu
odor of human body (Rawat and Garga, 2012; Pervin et al., 2014; et al. (2017) have shown the strong relationship between subjective
Patel et al., 2015). Modern cosmetics industry uses a wide range norm and intention to buy organic skin and hair care products.
of chemicals such as parabens, petrochemicals, sodium lauryl sul- Considering the external factors, Pervin et al. (2014) have
phate, artificial colors and preservatives. There is no doubt that highlighted an eco-label as a powerful tool for differentiating green
long-term exposure to such chemicals may cause many health cosmetics. Brands that are committed socially and environmentally
related problems, such as cancer, dermatitis and allergies. More- are valued as they explicitly show information about the in-
over, Nijkamp et al. (2015) have confirmed that personal care gredients and company’s policies (Mason, 2009; Akehurst et al.,
products contribute to consumers’ general exposure more than 2012). Thus, brands perceived as green can create a more positive
household cleaning agents. Therefore, consumers avoiding public image resulting in more advantages for green cosmetics
116 _ J. Bernatoniene_ / Journal of Cleaner Production 162 (2017) 109e120
G. Liobikiene,

(Kim and Seock, 2009). Therefore, consumers who pay attention to safety and environmental protection (Hemmerling et al., 2015).
the eco-label are more likely to purchase eco-labeled cosmetics. Meanwhile, authors analyzing the purchase behavior of green
The environmental knowledge is also an important factor deter- luxury and durable goods considered price, quality and brand fac-
mining whether or not to purchase organic cosmetics (Bachleda et al., tors. Thus, it could be summarized that different factors influence
2012; Tamashiro et al., 2014). However, Cervellon et al. (2010) have the separate groups of GPs purchase behavior.
stated that there is a lack of information that consumer has about In addition, the motives and goals which prompt to purchase GPs
green products in general and about green cosmetics in particular. are different as well. Saving energy and money in the household
Therefore, information about green cosmetics would be effective could be the main motive to purchase and consume energy efficient
promoting the green market (Pervin et al., 2014). bulbs and appliances (Liobikiene_ and Juknys, 2016). The enhance-
Moreover, the ability is very important in purchase of green ment of status could be the main motive to buy eco-friendly clothing
cosmetics (Bachleda et al., 2012). In particular, when people believe and fashion goods (Cervellon and Carey, 2011; Cervellon and
that they have more time, money and assortment their behavioral Wernerfelt, 2012; Elliott, 2013). Health aspects could promote pur-
intentions increase (Kim and Chung, 2011; Hsu et al., 2017). The chase of organic food and personal care products (Magnusson et al.,
most important is financial ability (Bachleda et al., 2012; Kalita, 2001; Chen, 2009). Moreover, it is very important to consider that
2014). According to Organic Monitor (2010), due to the economic products are also distinct in terms of their functional benefits, such
crisis in Europe, since 2009 the consumers of green cosmetics have as superior quality, performance and health benefits. The factors
been becoming more price-sensitive. Refering to the Organic which influence GPs purchase could be different according to the
Monitor (2011), since 2011 there has been observed a slowdown functional specification of the latter (Kumar, 2014). Therefore, these
in sales of organic cosmetics due to economic situation. Hsu et al. results confirmed that in the analysis of GPs purchase it is very
(2017) have shown that price sensitivity can enhance the positive important to consider the product categories and their specifications.
effects of green skincare products purchase intention and its an- Bernard et al. (2015) also confirmed that it is crucial to understand
tecedences. Thus, retailers might try to change consumers’ per- and consider the differences in consumer behavior across product
ceptions of higher prices to affordable prices using marketing categories. The analysis of determinants of GPs purchase behavior in
strategies (e.g., discount, advertisement, new product develop- general, not distinguishing between separate groups of the products,
ment), which would make consumers believe that they are capable is limited and the suggested tools for policy should be treated
of buying organic personal care products (Kim and Chung, 2011). carefully (Liobikiene et al., 2016). Therefore, the future researches
should avoid the analysis of the determinants of purchase behavior
5. Discussion of GPs as general group. The policy promoting the consumption of
GPs should consider the category of product group as well. For
Seeking sustainability and implementation of the sustainable example, in order to enhance the purchase of environmentally
consumption and production policy, one of the main tools is pro- friendly bulbs and appliances, the aspect of saving money should be
motion of GPs purchase. There is vast literature analyzing the de- highlighted. Meanwhile, for the promotion of organic food, the
terminants of green purchase where authors, according to their health aspects should be in the foreground.
findings, suggested how to effectively promote this behavior. In order to reveal the comprehensive view of determinants of
However, for the suggestions to be useful, it is important that the green purchase behavior and the tools necessary for the promotion
used methods and data are suitable. The major contribution of this of GPs purchase behavior, it is very important for future researches
paper is to provide a comprehensive review of peer-reviewed to include in the models factors which attribute to all dimensions
journal publications on green purchase behavior. This concluding (internal, social, and external). Thus, analyzing green purchase
section points out the most important weaknesses of analyzed behavior, the theory of planned behavior or the consumption value
papers, which should be considered in future researches. The theory are absolutely suitable for application as these theories
particular attention is paid to cosmetic products purchase behavior, encompass all these dimensions and reveal the general view of
as this category is scarcely analyzed, and to this group of products determinants impact.
being multidimensional. Thus, in this part there is proposed a
model for studies of green personal care products and color (and 5.2. Green cosmetics and a suggested model of green personal care
styling) cosmetics purchase behavior. We believe that in the near products and color cosmetics purchase behavior
future these theoretical considerations will be confirmed or cor-
rected by other experts in the field. In this study the exclusive attention as for the case was paid to
purchase of green cosmetic products, as currently there is an
5.1. Why the determinants of green product purchase cannot be imbalance between the growing use of organic cosmetics and the
treated equally? limited research attention focused on this product category.
Moreover, it is one of the product groups which are comprised of
This literature review showed that the most of studies analyzed two different categories. Color (make-up) and styling cosmetics are
the determinants of GPs purchase in general including all green attributed to luxury products, which reflect status of consumers.
products into one term. Reviewing the literature data related to the Meanwhile, the personal care products are attributed to necessity
general analysis of the GPs (including all green products), it was products (Wu and Chen, 2012). On the other hand, purchase of
observed that authors obtained different results in terms of inter- personal care products satisfies one’s needs for beauty and care for
nal, social and external factors impact on green purchase. These one’s general appearance (Todd, 2004; Kim and Chung, 2011).
differences could be explained by the fact that they encompassed Therefore, in the analysis of determinants of green cosmetics pur-
different countries with distinctive culture, economic development chase researchers should consider the category to which a partic-
and GPs supply. However, another insight could be that the re- ular cosmetic product is attributed.
spondents were asked about purchase of GPs in general and such a Proposing a model for the analysis of determinants of personal
generality could confuse them and the determinants could also care products and color (and styling) cosmetics purchasing
differ. Analyzing the separate categories of products, authors in behavior it is important to include all factors which could reveal the
their models included different variables. In terms of organic food comprehensive view of determinants of green cosmetic purchase
purchase behavior, the biggest attention was paid to health, taste, behavior. Thus, primarily in the model there are adjusted internal,
_ J. Bernatoniene_ / Journal of Cleaner Production 162 (2017) 109e120
G. Liobikiene, 117

Fig. 5. Model of green personal care products and color cosmetics purchase behavior.

social and external factors which are applied to purchase behavior these products may not play the main role in purchase behavior.
of both personal care products and color cosmetics. According to the insights from the work of Achabou and Dekhili
The internal factors such as environmental concern or aware- (2013), we assumed that brand and quality variables are the main
ness should positively determine the green personal care and color factors directly determining the green color cosmetics purchase.
cosmetics purchase (Kim and Seock, 2009; Kim and Chung, 2011; The brand and quality variables can also serve as mediators and
Pervin et al., 2014; Tamashiro et al., 2014; Patel et al., 2015; Hsu indirectly, via motivational factors (internal, social and external),
et al., 2017). The social factors like positive attitudes of the family affect the purchase of color cosmetics products (Fig. 5).
and friends towards these products should also positively influence Therefore, we suggest that the future researchers and policy
the purchase behavior of green personal care products and color makers in order to enhance the purchase of green personal care
cosmetics (Moungkhem and Surakiatpinyo, 2010; Kim and Chung, products should give particular attention to the health conscious-
2011; Hsu et al., 2017). The external factors such as information, ness. For future researches we also propose to include in the
convenience and confidence level, and a big assortment of these analysis of green color cosmetics the brand and quality variables as
products should promote the purchase behavior as well (Cervellon the main motivators and mediators to buy colored cosmetics.
et al., 2010; Kim and Chung, 2011; Bachleda et al., 2012; Tamashiro Meanwhile, the policy makers in order to promote the green color
et al., 2014; Hsu et al., 2017). However, the price would be the main cosmetics consumption should make effort to achieve greener
obstacle to buy green cosmetics products (Kim and Chung, 2011; production of well-known brand products. The quality aspect of
Bachleda et al., 2012; Kalita, 2014; Hsu et al., 2017). green color cosmetics should be highlighted as well.
Considering the categories of green cosmetics (personal care
products and color cosmetics), we enriched the model by including 6. Conclusion
particular variables which have the main impact and can act as
mediators of other factors influencing green cosmetics purchase The research on GPs purchase behavior has developed very fast in
behavior. By taking into account the green personal care products, the last three decades. In this literature review it was revealed that,
the particular attention was paid to health consciousness, because particularly recently, the researches on green purchase behavior
personal care products could be equated to organic food product increased extensively. During the years 2011e2017 there were con-
category (Mueller, 2006; Essoussi and Zahaf, 2008; Kim and Chung, ducted 80 studies. Seeking to implement the sustainable consump-
2011; Kalita, 2014). Considering that the ingredients are one of the tion and production policy, the findings of these studies are
most important product attributes in choosing the food and per- important for marketers and policy makers. However, the major
sonal care products, which is directly related with human health, in share of analyses was generally concerned with the GPs, without
this model we assumed that the health consciousness should be the distinguishing these products into separate categories. The envi-
main direct motivator to buy these products. In addition, we sup- ronmental attitude (concern) was the most frequently analyzed
posed that health variable could be a mediator (Fig. 5). We predict factor. In this review it was suggested that in order to reveal the
that health consciousness will have indirect effect (mediation ef- comprehensive view of green purchase (organic food, luxury prod-
fect). Mediation effects occur when an independent variable in- ucts) determinants, the models need to include the factors which are
fluences the dependent through its effects on or as a result of a attributed to all dimensions (internal, social, and external).
mediator variable. In this case, we assume that health consciousness Reviewing the findings about internal, social and external fac-
influences the purchase of green personal care products by affecting tors impact on GPs (including all green products) purchase
motivational (internal, social and external) factors. Moreover, we behavior, it was discovered that authors obtained different results.
assume that internal and social factors have a greater or the obsta- In the models authors included different factors analyzing separate
cles as price have a lesser impact on green personal care products for categories (such as organic food, luxury, durable goods). Consid-
those people for whom the health is very important. ering organic food the most popular determinants were environ-
The color (and styling) cosmetics are attributed to luxury mental attitude, health and taste, taking into account the durable
products; thus, the consumption of these products reflects status of goods e price, quality and brand. The motives and goals which
consumers. Consequently, the health consciousness in regard to prompt to purchase GPs and functional benefits, such as superior
118 _ J. Bernatoniene_ / Journal of Cleaner Production 162 (2017) 109e120
G. Liobikiene,

quality, performance and health benefits, were different as well. view of determinants of green cosmetic purchase behavior.
Therefore, there was emphasized the importance of considering the Analyzing the purchase of green personal care products, which in
classification of product categories and the product specificity our model were attributed to necessity products, it was suggested
when analyzing the determinants of GPs purchase behavior. The to pay a particular attention to health consciousness. Meanwhile,
analysis of determinants of GPs purchase behavior in general when considering the color and styling cosmetics which in our
without distinguishing groups of the products can distort the re- model were attributed to luxury products, we highlighted the
sults, and the recommendations for policy could be perverse. importance of brand and quality. By proposing this model we hope
In this study, the exclusive attention was paid to the purchase of that in the near future our theoretical considerations of the green
green cosmetics products, as currently there is an imbalance be- products purchase behavior will be confirmed or corrected by other
tween the growing use of organic cosmetics in the marketplace and experts in the field. This study also can provide more insight for the
the limited research attention paid to this product category. It is policy makers and marketing seeking the promotion of GPs pur-
known that for the purchase of green cosmetics several factors (the chase behavior, which is important for the sustainability and
health consciousness, environmental concern, social factors, eco- implementation of sustainable consumption and production policy.
label, environmental knowledge and price) are of great impor-
tance. However, it was highlighted that for the analysis of the de- Acknowledgments
terminants of green cosmetics purchase behavior authors should
consider a category to which a particular cosmetics product can be The authors are thankful for financial support provided by sci-
attributed. encefoundation of Lithuanian University of Health Sciences.
Thus, there was a model proposed for the analysis of de-
terminants of green personal care and color (and styling) products Appendix
purchasing behavior. Primarily, the internal, social and external
factors were included in both personal care products and color
cosmetics purchase studies in order to reveal the comprehensive

Table 1
Summary of studies on GPs purchase (intention) behavior according to the product categories.

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Liobikiene_ et al., 2017; Kumar et al., 2017.
Food de Maya et al., 2011; Rezai et al., 2012; Wheeler et al., 2013; Schleenbecker and Hamm, 2013; Kalita, 2014; Bradu et al., 2014; Yazdanpanah and
Forouzani, 2015; Lee and Yun, 2015; Majumdar and Swain, 2015; Hemmerling et al., 2015; Bernard et al., 2015; Hwang, 2016; Yadav and Pathak,
2016; Lee and Hwang, 2016; Teng and Lu, 2016; Nuttavuthisit and Thøgersen, 2017.
Cosmetics product Kim and Chung, 2011; Bachleda et al., 2012; Rawat and Garga, 2012; Wu and Chen, 2012; Ferrer et al., 2012; Jawahar and Tamizhjyothi, 2013;
Pervin et al., 2014; Tamashiro et al., 2014; Patel et al., 2015; Bernard et al., 2015; Hsu et al., 2017.
Clothing and fashion Cervellon and Carey 2011; Cervellon and Wernerfelt, 2012; Achabou and Dekhili, 2013; Angelis et al., 2017.
products
Luxury and durable Davies et al., 2012; Tsai, 2012; Steinhart et al., 2013; Zhao et al., 2014; Knez et al., 2014; Wu et al., 2015; Yang and Zhao, 2015; Zhao and Zhong,
products 2015; Liu et al., 2015; Rudolph, 2016; Nguyen et al., 2016; Medeiros and Ribeiro, 2017.

Table 2
Summary of studies on GPs purchase (intention) behavior (including all green products) according to the analyzed determinants.

Determinants References

Environmental attitude (concern, Tan, 2011; Chen and Chang, 2012; Lin and Huang, 2012; Kaufmann et al., 2012; Paço et al., 2013; Almossawi, 2014; Wang et al., 2014;
values) Azizan and Suki, 2014; Newton et al., 2015; Ritter et al., 2015; Junior et al., 2015; Braimah, 2015; Biswas and Roy, 2015; Chekima et al.,
2016; Goh and Balaji, 2016; Lai and Cheng, 2016; Moser, 2016; Paul et al., 2016.
Environmental consciousness Boztepe, 2012; Kaufmann et al., 2012; Ritter et al., 2015; Suki et al., 2016.
Perceived consumer effectiveness Tan, 2011; Kumar, 2012; Kaufmann et al., 2012; Lin and Hsu, 2015; Wang et al., 2014; Kong et al., 2014; Kanchanapibul et al., 2014;
Kabadayi et al., 2015.
Perception of consequences Wang et al., 2014; Lai and Cheng, 2016.
(responsibility)
Health consciousness (quality of Azizan and Suki, 2014; Ritter et al., 2015.
life)
Attitude towards GPs (green Coleman et al., 2011; Chen and Chang, 2012; Kumar, 2012; Lin and Huang, 2012; Wu and Chen, 2014; Kong et al., 2014; Biswas and Roy,
consumption) 2015; Suki, 2016; Paul et al., 2016; Kumar et al., 2017.
Values Kaufmann et al., 2012; Chairy, 2012.
Social norms Coleman et al., 2011; Kumar, 2012; Lin and Huang, 2012; Lin and Hsu, 2015; Wu and Chen, 2014; Biswas and Roy, 2015; Ritter et al.,
2015; Liobikiene_ et al., 2016; Suki, 2016; Paul et al., 2016, Suki et al., 2016; Kumar et al., 2017; Liobikiene_ et al., 2017 .
Environmental knowledge Tan, 2011; Kumar, 2012; Kaufmann et al., 2012; Lin and Hsu, 2015; Wang et al., 2014; Kong et al., 2014; Almossawi, 2014; Azizan and
(information) Suki, 2014; Kanchanapibul et al., 2014; Ritter et al., 2015; Biswas and Roy, 2015; Goh and Balaji, 2016; Kumar et al., 2017; Liobikiene_
et al., 2016.
Eco-labelling (brand) Smith and Brower, 2012; Boztepe, 2012; Tseng and Hung, 2013; Azizan and Suki, 2014; Kong et al., 2014; Braimah, 2015; Chekima et al.,
2016.
Trust Kaufmann et al., 2012; Chen and Chang, 2012; Tseng and Hung, 2013; Liobikiene_ et al., 2016.
Accessibility Conditional values Kumar, 2012; Lin and Huang, 2012; Kaufmann et al., 2012; Wu and Chen, 2014; Wang et al., 2014; Biswas and Roy, 2015; Braimah,
2015; Liobikiene_ et al., 2016, Grimmer et al., 2016; Paul et al., 2016; Suki, 2016.
Price Boztepe, 2012; Braimah, 2015; Ritter et al., 2015; Chekima et al., 2016; Liobikiene_ et al., 2016; Suki 2016; Liobikiene_ et al., 2017.
_ J. Bernatoniene_ / Journal of Cleaner Production 162 (2017) 109e120
G. Liobikiene, 119

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