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TEXTILE Chief Editor & Compiler:

~ Mason Brown

~
ABHISHEK
 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any
form, electronically or otherwise, in print, photoprint, micro film or
by any other means without written permission from the publisher.

ISBN 978-81-8247-342-3

Copyright Publisher
Revised Edition 2010

Published by
ABHISHEK PUBLICATIONS,
S.C.O. 57-59, Sector 17-C,
CHANDIGARH-1600 17 (India)
Ph.-2707562,Fax-OI72-2704668
Email: abhpub@yahoo.com
 textilestudycenter.com

Preface
Textiles are fibres that are spun into yarn or made into
fabric by weaving, knitting, braiding, and felting. The
term is now applicable to natural and synthetic filaments,
yarns, and threads as well as to the woven, knitted, felted,
tufted, braided, bonded, knotted, and embroidered fab-
rics. The spinning and weaving were one of the first crafts
that is believed to have been practiced as early as the
New Stone Age. In ancient Egypt, the earliest textiles
were woven from flax in India, Peru, and Cambodia, from
cotton in the Southern European; from wool in China.
Textile also includes non-woven fabrics produced by me-
chanically or chemically bonding fibres. Computerised tex-
tile mill with multiple machines run continuously to pro-
duce textiles in the modern market. In a mill, the initial
stage of processing fibre into fabric is almost entirely co-
ordinated and controlled by computer. Computers are able
to execute complex weaving and spinning jobs with great
speed and accuracy. Most are equipped with monitoring
sensors that will stop production if an error is detected.
The initial stage of textile manufacturing involves the pro-
duction of the raw material either by farmers who raise
cotton, sheep, silkworms, or flax or by chemists who pro-
duce fibre from various basic substances by chemical pro-
cesses. The fibre is spun into yarn, which is then pro-
cessed into fabric in a weaving or knitting mill. After
dyeing and finishing, the woven material is ready for de-
livery either directly to a manufacturer of textile products
=4======*======11
to finally get stitched into clothes that we wear.
This book gives you an insight for terminology used in
the textile industry. It should be helpful for everyone who
is associated with garment, and textile industry.

II = = = = = = = = 1 J : : d i l e
 textilestudycenter.com

II aha I accfJrdion 5
*================
.aba ~ • absorbency
a loose cloak, possibly of Ara- ~ the ability of a fabric to take in
bian origin related to the Jama ; moisture. Absorbency is a very
in men's wear. : important property, which af-
~ fects many other characteristics
• abaca
I such as skin comfort, static
this vegetable leaf fibre is de- ~ build-up, shrinkage, stain re-
rived from the Musa textiles : moval, water repelience, and
plant. It is mainly grown in the ~ wrinkle recovery.
Philippines but is also found, in
~ • abstract
smaller amounts in Mrica, Ma-
laysia, Indonesia and Costa ~ refers to a design in the abstract
Rica. The fibre is obtained from I style, i.e. one that represents a
the outer layer of the leaf. Pro- : general form and not an accu-
cessing occurs when it is sepa- ~ rate representation of a subject.
rated mechanically decorticated ~ • accessories
into lengths varying from 3 to
~ additional ornamentation to
9 feet. Abaca is very strong and
; accompany the garment in or-
has great lustre. It is very resis-
: der to create a certain look/im-
tant to damage from salt wa-
~ age. (shoes, jewelleries etc.)
ter.
• abho
a loose shirt-like garment,
worn by women mostly in
Gujarat and Rajasthan. The I
garment is generally worn I
with short, wide sleeves, open
at the neck, loose-fitting on
the upper part and really I
flared in its skirt. Often deco-
rated with embroidery and ~ • accordion
mirror-glass work. ~ Ixl rib knit alternating with a
; 2x2 rib.

Tllxtile======== II
6 aeet4te
• acetate
1. acetate, one of the ftrst manu-
factured ftbres is soft and has a
crisp feel. It has the lustrous
appearance of silk. and excellent
drapability. It is not a strong ft-
bre, as it is resistance to abra-
sion is poor. It does resist
shrinkage, moths, and mildew
and does not absorb moisture
readily. Its yarns are pliable and
supple and will always sprig
back to their original shape. It
is fast drying and when heated
becomes more pliable. Acetone
and alcohol dissolve acetate ft-
bres. Special dyes are required
if it is be coloured. Today ac-
etate can be found in a variety
of colours.
2. the term used to describe ft-
bres of cellulose ethanoate (ac-
etate) wherein between 74%
and 92% of the hydroxyl groups
of the original cellulose are
ethanoylated (acetylated). Puri-
fied cellulose is ethanoylated
(acetylated) byethanoic anhy-
dride (acetic anhydride) in the
presence of a catalyst (such as
sulphuric acid or perchloric
acid) in a solvent such as
dichloromethane (methylene
II = = = = = = = = ' H x t i l e
IlIChkan II
I chloride) or ethanoic (acetic)
I acid. The reaction proceeds un-
til primary cellulose acetate con-
taining 60% of combined
I ethanoic acid is formed. Second-
I ary cellulose acetate is formed
from the primary acetate by
I partial hydrolysis. It is obtained
I by adding water in excess of that
I required to react with the re-
sidual ethanoic anhydride,
I which thus allows the hydroly-
I sis to take place.
I • acetone-soluble cellulose
ethanoate
:I when the hydrolysis of primary
~ cellulose ethanoate (acetate) is
. allowed to proceed until ap-
~
proximately 54% of combined
ethanoic (acetic) acid remains in
I the product, the cellulose ac-
etate is soluble in propanone
(acetone) and is sometimes
I known as acetone-soluble cellu-
I lose acetate.
I • acetylation
I the process of introducing an
ethanoyl (acetyl) radical into an
organic molecule.
I • achkan
a men's long-sleeved coat-like
I garment, worn close to the
 textilestudycenter.com

7
.~====~~==~==
body, reaching down to the ~ - affinity
knees or even lower, and but- ~ the quantitative expression of
toned in front-middle. ; substantiality. It is the difference
_ acid dye : between the chemical potential
an anionic dye characterised by ~ ?f the dye in its standard state
substantiality for protein and ~ ~ the fib:e and the ~o~respond­
polyamide fibres and usually I mg chemIcal potennal m the dye
applied from an acidic or neu- :I bath.
tral dye bath. : - agneline
• I
_ acrylic : a black woollen fabric with a
1. it is manufactured fibres of ~ very long nape. It is coarse and
acrylonitrile. It is a durable fi- I heavy. When stretched the fi-
bre with a soft, woolly feel. It ~ bre~ tighten and become water
has an uneven surface makin : reSIstant.
. difli ,gl
It erent from most manu- : - aguillettes
factured
. fibres. It l
f comes in ' a I metal-tagged Iaces that repIace
varIety ~ co <:>urs, . and can be ; the sewn ones, to attach the
dyed easil~ It IS reSIstant to sun : breeches to the doublet.
and chemICals. I

2. a term used to describe fibres ~ - air laying

composed of synthetic linear ~ a method of forming a web (or
macromolecules having in the : batt) of staple fibres in which
chain at least 85% (by mass) of ~ the fibres are dispersed into an
recurring cyanoethene (acry- ; air stream and condensed from
lonitrile) groups. : the air stream on to a perme-
~ able cage or conveyor. .
- acrylic coated
£ b . . I - albatross
a La rIC which has been coated :
generally on the back, wid~ ~ a lightweight, plain weave fab-
acrylic resin to make it water- ; ric traditionally of wool or wool
proof or dawn proof. ~ blends with a napped, fleecy
: surface . So named because the
I texture resembles the breast of

T h m l e = = = = = = = II
8 albert cloth I allover lace
=================*
an albatross. Usually light in
colour, used in infant's wear,
sleep wears.
• albert cloth
it has a double layer of wool and
is reversible. Faces and backs
may vary in colour and pattern.
II
I droxide, the remainder being
I water. During the steeping of
the cellulose in sodium hydrox-
ide (18-20% wjw) to form the
I alkali-cellulose, soluble impuri-
ties, including soluble cellulose
are removed.
I

Provides additional warmth and • alley

body.
• alencon lace
a needlepoint lace on a fme net
ground characterised by a heavy
the area between the breaker
I carding and finisher carding
I machines in which the alley ten-
der works.
I

thread (cordon net) outlining • alligator skin

the design. Usually machine a design, printed or embossed,
made but sometimes the cordon I that suggests the characteristic
net is inserted by hand. I texture of an alligator.
• alginate (fibre) (generic I • allonge-perruqe
name) I French term for periwig, also
a term used to describe fibres called state-wig. Worn by fash-
composed of metallic salts of ~ ionable men in the late 17th,
alginic acid. I early 18th century, introduced

• alkali-cellulose probably by Louis XIV and usu-

ally in black or dark brown
the product of the interaction of I shades. The periwig had very
strong sodium hydroxide with ~ high 'horns' on top of the fore-
purified cellulose.note: in the head and was extremely long,
manufacture of viscose fibres, I curled and flowing down the
the cellulose may be cotton lint- I back and over the shoulders.
ers or wood-pulp. Mter press-
ing, alkali-cellulose usually con- I • allover lace
tains approximately 30% of cel- I general term for a wide lace in
lulose and 15% of sodium hy- which the pattern covers the full

11======Thaile
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II alpaca I angora 9
*================
width of the fabric. It is gener- ~ on the back of the hand, in-
ally sold and cut in the same way ; vented in 1684 by MIle Ie
as non-lace fabrics. : Rochois, an actress at the op-
~ era, who had unsightly arms.
- alpaca 1
: _ anaphe
a natural hair fibre obtained
from the Alpaca sheep, a do- ~ a wild silk from the larvae of
mesticated member of the ~ the Anaphe moth.
llama family. The fibre is most
~ - angarakfia
commonly used in fabrics made
into dresses, suits, coats, and ; a long, full-sleeved outerwear
sweaters. Also imitated in wool, :1 for men, literally 'that which
•
wool and alpaca, rayon, mohair : protects or covers the hmbs'.
and rayon or cotton and a cot- ~ Closely related to the Jama
ton warp and alpaca filling also ; (q.v.), but possibly of native,
synthetics e.g. orlon. : Indian origin. Generally open at
~ the chest and tied in front, with
Fine, silk-like, soft, lightweight
1 an inner flap or parda covering
and warm. It is very rich and
~ the chest. Full-skirted and of
silky with considerable lustre
: varying lengths.
and resembles mohair. If guard 1
hairs are used, it is inclined to : _ angiaiangika
be beardy. It is strong and du- ~ short, tight-fitting bodice worn
rable. Alpaca is found in white, ~ by women in India from very
black, fawn or grey. The fibres ; early times. Literally, 'covering
are less coarse than those of the : for the body'.
llama but are higher in tensile 1
strength. : - angora
I
: the hair of the angora rabbit.
- alter ~ The origin of the angora breed
to change the pattern so that it ; is unclear. It is believed to
corresponds to body measure- : corne from France, developed
ments. ~ from a mutation in a wild rab-
_ amadis Sleeve ~ bit, in the 18th century. Note:
· the hair of the Angora goat is
tight-fitting sleeve continuing I

Thxtile======11
~lO===========;"Bom904t IIIPJNIrentwtdlthiclmess II
referred to as mohair. I raffe are popular motifs.
• angora goat I • anionic dye
scoured mohair appears I a dye that dissociates in aque-
smooth and white. It varies in ous solution to give a negatively
fmeness and is highly resilient, charged ion.
very strong and has high lustre. • anti bacterial
Its value is determined by its I

lustre and not its sofmess. finish that makes a fabric resis-
I tant to the growth of bacteria.
Used. extensively in industries
such as ·carpet, upholstery, cur- I • anti pill
tain an~utomobile cloth. I a fmish applied to fleece which
• angora rabbit I involves shearing the surface so
hair from the angora rabbit. It I that the fabric is less likely to
is indigenous to Asia Minor and pill.
Turkey. Often blended and • antique satin
mixed with wool to lower the I a reversible fabric, one side
price of the fmished article or I looks like satin and the other
to obtain fancy or novelty ef- side like shantung. It often has
fects. a dark warp, which enhances
• anidex (fibre) I the texture. Often used for
I draperies.
a term used to describe fibres
made from a synthetic linear I • antique taffeta
polymer that consists of at least a stiff plain weave fabric , often
50% by mass of one or more iridescent, with a stubbed weft.
esters of a monohydric alcohol ~ May be of silk or synthetics.
and propenoic acid (acrylic
• antron
acid).
I brand of nylon fibre trade-
• animal skin I marked by the Du Pont Co.
refers to a design which sug-
gests the skin of an animal . I • apparent wall thickness
Leopard, tiger, zebra and gi- ; the apparent width of a fibre

11======'Htajle
 textilestudycenter.com

II llramid I art/embroidery linen 11

*================
wall as seen under the micro- ~ coloured ground, usually
scope. In the maturity test for ; crossed by lines in a diamond
cotton, the apparent wall thick- : shape.
I
ness is assessed visually at the : _ armour
widest part of the fibres as a I

fraction of the maximum ribbon : cotton, silk, wool, rayon, syn-

width. ~ thetics, and blends. Plain, twill,
I or rib, background often has a
_ aramid
~ small design either jacquard or
1. this strong fibre does not : dobby made with warp floats
have a melting point and is ~ on surface giving a raised ef-
flame proof. It retains its shape, ; fect. Design is often in two
even at high temperatures and : colours and rose. The name
is resistant to stretch. ~ was derived from original fab-
2. a term used to describe fibres ~ ric, which was woven with a
composed of synthetic linear ; small-interlaced design of chain
macromolecules having in the : armour and used for military
chain recurring amide groups, ~ equipment during the Cru-
at least 85% of which are joined; sades.
directly by two aromatic rings ; _ art linen
and in which amide groups may :. . .
be substituted for u to 50% of I It IS woven WI~ even threads
'd P : that are espeCIally good for
the amI e groups. I . .
: embroIdery. It IS very easy to
- argentan lace I 'draw' the yarns for drawn

a needlepoint lace on a net ~ thread work. Comes bleached,

ground similar to alencon lace : or coloured. Has a soft finish.
but on a larger net and without ~ _ art/embroidery linen
the cordon net outline thread of I bal d I' £ b .
alencon. :a ance p am weave la fIC
~ usually of linen or linen/cotton.
_ argyle ; It is made from smooth round
a design of various coloured dia- : yarns (not flattened by calender-
mond shaped blocks on a single ~ ing) . Used as a base for em-

Textile======== II
12 asbestos I atmosphere for testing II
=========*
broidered table linen, pillow- I loops or curls, imitating the coat
cases, also in drapes, slipcovers I of an astrakhan lamb. Some-
and some apparel. times made with a mohair warp
to add lustre and curl to the sur-
• asbestos
I face. Poor grades often have
a generic name used to de- cotton warp or back. Luxuriant
scribe a family of naturally fur, curly and wavy. Most popu-
occurring fibrous hydrated I lar shade is brown. It is a
silicates divided on the basis I caracul lambskin from the As-
of mineralogical features into trakhan section of Russia.
serpentines and amphiboles. I
Six varieties were of commer- I • atactic polymer
cial importance: serpentine: a linear polymer containing
chrysotile mg3 (si2oS) (oh)4, asymmetrically-substituted car-
amphiboles: actinolite ca2 I bon atoms in the repeating unit
(mgfe)5 (si6022) (oh)2, as- I of the main chain, a planar pro-
bestos grunerite ( amosite) : jection of whose structure has
(femg)7 (si6022) (oh)2,' I the same substitute situated ran-
anthhophyllite (mgfe)7 I domly to anyone side or the
(si6022)( oh) 2, crocidolite other of the main chain.
na2fe2+3fe3+2(si6022)(oh)2, • atansaw
tremolite ca2mgS (si6022) I
(oh)2,the six varieties are a wide, commodious chogha
deemed to be asbestos only like garment for wrapping
when they have a fibrous form I around the body.
I • atlas
• asharfi buti
a popular textile design consist- I a warp knit fabric in which a set
ing of small floral discs or I of yarns shifts diagonally one
circles, sometimes with small wale per course for several
I courses, then returns to the
patterns within the circle.
original position.
• astrakhan
I • atmosphere for testing
a thick woven or knitted cloth
often of wool with a surface of I 1. standard temperate atmo-

II = = = = = = = = 7 b : : t i l e
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II aut011taticfoeder I baldrick 13
*================
sphere: an atmosphere at the ~ the bobbins, from which roving
prevailing barometric pressure ; is drawn into the machine, are
with a relative humidity of 65% : held.
I
and a temperature of 20°C, : • backtanning
I
2. standard tropical atmo-
: an after-treatment to improve
sphere: an atmosphere at the I
: the wet fastness of dyed or
prevailing barometric pressure
I printed silk: or nylon, using ei-
with a relative humidity of 65%
~ ther natural or synthetic tan-
and a temperature of 27°C.
: ning agents.
I
• automatic feeder
: • badla
a machine that feeds a steady I
: flat metallic wire, otten silver-
supply of raw, dirty cotton to
~ gilt, used in brocading and em-
the carding machine.
; broidery.
• awning stripe
; • baghal bandi
1. a design of wide even stripes
~ a kind of tunic or jacket, worn
2. a heavy canvas fabric with : shorts and fastened under the
this design. May be yarn dyed ~ armpits.
or printed.
~ • balagny cloak
• azlon
~ first half of 17th century, cloak
. a term used to describe manu- ; or cape with wide collar, in
factured fibres in which the fi- : France named after a military
bre-forming substance is com- ~ hero.
posed of any regenerated natu-
rally occurring protein. The iso- ~ • balanced stripes
generic name is protein. ~ a design of stripes that are even
• back ; in width and spacing.
the underside of the cloth as ; • baldrick
woven in the loom. ; (French Bandelier) sword
: hanger, usually decorated with
• back frame
~ exquisite eIl}broidery, (often
the side of a fly frame on which

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
14 bale I bandanna II
================*
metal thread embroidery) and I ally synthetic-polymer fibre) in
worn from the right shoulder I the form of an unpacked bale,
to the left hip, usually over the 2. in the USA, a low cost pro-
waistcoat or earlier bolero-style cess for dyeing cotton fabric to
doublet, but under the coat or I produce a coloured warp and
justacorps. Frequently worn I white weft.
over the coat to show off the
I • baling press
embroidery, when the baldric
had become very broad and I a machine for compressing
long. The sword (rapier,/later bolts of cloth or waste into com-
also dress-sword) hangs very pact bales for shipment.
low at: the knees. • ball warping
• bal~ I the winding of a large number
a package of compressed raw I of individual strands of yarn of
cottOb, weighing, for American a specified length onto a beam
cotton, about 500 lbs., for in the form of a loose untwisted
Egyptian, 700 lbs., Brazilian, I rope, employed chiefly when
250 lbs., and East Indian, 400 I yarn is to be dyed.
lbs. • band
• bale breaker the cotton belt that drives the
a machine used for opening cot- spindle of textile machinery.
ton direct from a bale. Layers • bandanna
of compressed cotton are taken I
1. a print design characterised
from a bale and fed into a ma-
I by white or brightly colour
chine where the tearing action
I motifs on a dark or bright
of two coarse spiked rollers
ground, most often red or navy.
moving in opposite directions, I
Done by discharge or resist
produces a more open mass of :
I printing but originally do in In-
tufts. :
dia by tie-dyeing .
• bale dyeing 2. a fabric, usually cotton with
1. dyeing of loose stock (usu- such a design.

/I ========Textile
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II bIJ1IIlhani I bllS de cone / dejupe / de 1'0; 15

• bandhani ~
used in silk for cravat cloth and
a process of patterning cloth by ; after five wear.
tie-dyeing in which the design ; • bare pychon ka pyjama
is reserved on the undyed cloth ; a pyjama with wide, flared legs.
by tying small spots very tightly
with thread to protect them ; • bark cloth
. from the dye. Popular III ~ originally referred to fabric
Rajasthan and Gujarat. : made from the bark of trees.
• banyan ~ Now the term is used to de-
; scribe fabric with a surface tex-
name given in England to men's : ture resembling tree bark.
jacket in Indian cloth. The term I
is mostly used for indoor gar- I: • barras
ments 'dressing gowns'. : a coarse linen fabric similar to
• barathea ~ sackcloth, originally produced
I in Holland.
an indistinct twill or broken rib-
usually a twilled hopsack I • barre
weave- with a fine textured ; an imperfection, characterised
,slightly pebbled surface. Often ~ by a ridge or mark running in
of silk or silk blended with : the crosswise or lengthwise di-
wool, used for neckties, ~ rections of the fabric. It can be
women's fine suits and coats ; caused by tension variations in
men and women's evenings : the knitting process, poor quai-
wear. Worsted, silk, rayon or ~ ity yarns, and problems during
silk or rayon warp combined ~ the finishing process.
with cotton or wool. Usually a I • barrier fabric
twilled hopsack weaves. Fine
textured, slightly pebbled sur- ; fabrics that are barriers to dust
face. Appears to be cut off-grain. ~ , dust mites and associated al-
Very hard wearing. It is still : lergens.
often dyed black. Women's suits ~ • bas de cotte / de jupe / de
and coats, men's evening wear, I robe
dress goods in light fibres. Also I in the second half of the 17th

TeJaiIe======11
16 basic dye I batik 1/
=================*
century this term was used for I lationship. Both balanced and
the lower part of the petticoat I unbalanced basket weave fab-
or skirt, which went with the rics can be produced. Examples
petticoat or skirt body, covered of basket weave construction
by the gown body. I include monk cloth and oxford
cloth.
• basic dye
a cationic dye characterised by I
• basques
its substantivity for basic-dye- mid-17th century French word
able acrylic and basic-dyeable for short tabs at bodices and
polyester fibres, especially the I male doublets that extended
former. The term was origi- I below the waist. The jackets
nally applied to tannin-mordant with basques were worn in
cotton dyes. combination with skirts instead
I of gowns.
• basin waste
the silk waste consisting of co- I • bast fibre
coons that could not be com- I strong, soft, woody fibres, such
pletely reeled because of too as flax, jute, hemp, and ramie,
frequent breaks in the thread. which are obtained from the
I inner bark in the stems of cer-
• basket stitch
, tain plants.
a knit construction with mostly
purl loops in the pattern courses , • batik
to give a basket weave look a traditional Indonesian dyeing
process in which portions of fab-
• basket weave
I ric are coated with wax and
a variation of the plain weave I therefore resist the dye. The
construction, formed by treat- process can be repeated to
ing two or more warp yarns achieve multi-colour designs.
and/or two or more filling yarns I Fabric usually has a veined ap-
as one unit in the weaving pro- pearance where the dye has
cess. Yarns in a basket weave are gone through the cracks in the
laid into the woven construction , wax.
flat, and maintain a parallel re-

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II blltUte I balm
• batiste
a medium-weight, plain weave
fabric, usually made of cotton
or cotton blends. End-uses in-
clude blouses and dresses.
1. a sheer, fine, soft, light
weight, plain weave fabric usu-
ally of combed cotton or poly-
ester/cotton. It often has
lengthwise streaks due to the
use of 2 ply yarns. Used for
shirts blouses dresses
nightwear and lingerie.
2. a lightweight smooth all
wool fabric.
3. a sheer silk fabric.
• battery
a magazine on the loom that
holds the full quills, cops, or
17
*===============
~ stripes in the filling direction.
I Often-black warp. The colour
: effects are usually startling or
:I bOIZarre. Mostly produced in In-
I dia. Name derived from the
; Bajadere dancing girl of India,
: dedicated from birth to a danc-
~ ing life. The Bayadere costume
~ includes the striped garment, a
; flimsy scarf or shawl, jewelled
: trousers, spangles, sequins, an-
~ klets.
~ • beaded
~ referring to a fabric embel-
; lished with beads.
I

bobbins of fllling yarn, and from

which they are inserted into the
shuttle by an automatic chang- I

ing device .
• bave I
: • beading lace
the silk fibre complete with its I
natural gum (sericin) as it is : a machine made lace with a row
withdrawn from a cocoon. It is ~ of openwork holes designed for
I the insertion of a decorative rib-
composed of two brims.
: bon.
I
• bayadere
: • beam
crosswise rib (plain or twill I
weave). Has brightly coloured 1. a large spool "or roll, about

ThmIe=======·11
~18==========. beam warping I beet I
three feet in diameter, on which , coats. Twill and very heavily
warp or cloth is wound. , napped, and filled. Thick,
2. to wind yarn from a dyed ball gives excellent wear and very
warp onto a section beam. warm, resembles kersey.
, Length of nap varies with the
• beam warping cloth and its uses. Has a luxu-
the transferring of yarn from rious look. Has the longest
bobbins or cheeses onto a warp ~ nap of all the napped fabrics
or section beam in the form of ; and usually somewhat silky.
a wide sheet. Several of these Often light coloured fibres
beams are run through the added to nap to increase shine.
slashing machine to make one ~ Mostly used for warm coats.
loom beam. ; Cotton beaver is used for caps,
• beaming machine : shoe linings, work cloths, Mari-
~ time clothes and sports clothes
a machine which winds the in-
'. where work is required.
dividual yarn ends from a rope-
like bundle and distributes' • bedford cord
them evenly over a section ,La cord cotton-like fabric with
beam. raised ridges in the lengthwise
• beat up direction. Since the fabric has a
, high strength and a high dura-
to align strands of filling yarn
bility, it is often used for uphol-
and push them up close together '
stery and work clothes.
as they are woven. The reed ,
accomplishes this by advancing : 2. a woven fabric constructed to
and receding from the cloth af- ~ show pronounced rounded
ter each passage of the shuttle, ' cords in the warp direction with
driving each pick against the sunken lines between them.
fell of cloth already woven. , Used in trousers, uniforms,
, hats, and upholstery.
• beaver cloth
, • beet
a high quality, heavy, soft, a bundle or sheaf of tied flax
wool cloth with a deep,
smooth nap. Used in over- ; crop or straw.

II==-;======~le
 textilestudycenter.com

II beetled I birdseye 19
*================
• beetled ~ • bias

a finishing process in which a ~ any direction in the fabric which

fabric usually linen or cotton is ; does not exactly flow in the di-
pounded to produce a hard flat : rection of the weft yarn (verti-
surface with a sheen. ~ cal yarns) or warp yarns (hori-
I zontal yarns) of a fabric. A true
• bellies (wool) ~ bias makes an angle of 45 de-
the coarser quality of wool : gree across the length and
from the underside of sheep. ~ width of a fabric.
• bengaline ~ • bi-component fibre
a durable plain weave fabric ~ a man-made fibre having two
characterised by width wise ; distinct polymer components.
cords formed by using fine : Both components are them-
warp yarns and course weft ~ selves usually fibre forming.
yarns, used in dresses, coats, ; Wool and some other animal
suits, ribbons, draperies. : fibres are sometimes consid-
I
Silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, : ered to be bi-component since
cotton. Crosswise rib, warp ~ they possess a side-by-side con-
faced. First made of silk in ; figuration of the ortho- and
Bengal, India. Ribs are round : para-cortex, which results in
and raised. Often has wool or ~ crimp in the fibre.
cotton dolling in the ribs, ~ • binche lace
which doesn't show. Has a ten-
dency to slip at the seams if :Ia lace in which
" the lace motifs
,
too tightly fitted. Grosgrain ~are apphqued to a ~a~hllle
and Petersham is bengaline cut ;made ,net .ground. ?ngmally
to ribbon widths. The cloth is : made m Bmche BelgIUm.
usually 40' wide. Coats, suits, ~ • birdseye
millinery, trims, bouffant ~ a general term for a fabric with
dresses with a tailored look, I a surface texture of small, uni-

mourning cloth, draperies. ~ form spots that suggest bird's

eyes. Can be woven or knit.

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
20
~==============.
Very soft, light weight, and ab-
sorbent. Woven with a loosely
twisted filling to in~rease absor-
bency. Launders very well. No
starch is applied because the
absorption properties must be
of the best. Materi.al must be
free from any foreIgn matter.
It is also called 'diaper cloth'
and is used for that purpose as
well as very good towelling.
Also 'novelty' birds eye effects
used as summer dress fabrics.
_ birefringence
the difference between the re-
fractive index of a fibre mea-
sured parallel to the fibre axis
nii and that measured perpen-
dicular to the fibre axis nl, dn
= nii - nl, birefringence is fre-
quently used as a measure of
the orientation of the macro-
molecules within the fibre.
- biscuit
one of several narrow cylindri-
cal cheeses of yarn wound as a
composite package on a single
former side by side but not
touching. Biscuit packages are
used as the take-up in some
synthetic-fibre extrusion sys-
terns.
II = = = = = = = = T « t i ! e
birifringence I bleizching II
~ - blanket cloth
; wool, worsted, cotton, blends,
~ synthetics. Soft, raised finish,
: 'nap' obtained by passing the
~ fabric over a series of rollers
; covered with fme wire or tea-
~ sels. Heavily napped and filled
: on both sides. Nap loses and
~ may pill in laundering. Named
; in honour of Thomas Blanket
: (Blanquette), a Flemish weaver
~ who lived in Bristol, England in
; the XIV century, and was the
~ first to use this material for
sleeping to keep warm.
I
: - blanket plaid
I
a large vividly colour plaid de-
I
sign such as those often found
; on blankets.
:
~ - bleached
. chemical treatment to remove
impurities and whiten the fab-
I ric. It can be done either in
I preparation for dyeing and fm-
ishing or to obtain clean whites
~ in finished fabric.
;
: - bleaching
~ the procedure of ~proving ~e
~ whiteness of textile matenal,
; with or without the removal of
: natural colouring matter and/
I
 textilestudycenter.com

" bleaching agmt I block copolymer 21

*================
or extraneous substances, by a ~ • blending machine
bleaching agent. ~ a group of devices that are syn-
• bleaching agent ; chronized to proportion definite
. : amounts of various grades of
a chemiCal reagent capable of I hi h be bl d d
. . cotton w c are to en e
destroymg partly or completely . th
· matter 0 f
the natural co1ourmg I
:
toge er.
textile fibres, yarns and fabrics, I • blinding
and leaving them white or con- ~ a marked and undesirable loss
siderably lighter in colour. Ex- : of lustre of fibres caused by wet
amples are oxidising and reduc- ~ processing.
ing agents. Amongst the I

former, hydrogen peroxide is : • blitz

widely used. ~ a light to medium weight wo-
I ven fabric with a filament
• blend ~ warp and spun weft. Often has
a term applied to a yarn or a : a very fine crosswise rib.
fabric that is made up of more ~ Common blends are acetate/
than one fibre. In blended ; rayon and polyester/rayon.
yarns, two or more different
types of staple fibres are ; • block copolymer
twisted or spun together to ; a copolymer in which the re-
form the yarn. Examples of a : peating units in the main chain
typical blended yarn or fabric ~ occur in blocks, e.g,-(a)m-
is polyester/cotton. I (b)n-(a)p-(b)q- ,where a and

~ b represent the repeating

• blending
: units.
a process or processes con- I
cerned primarily with efficient : • block copolymer
mixing of various lots of fibres. ~ a copolymer in which the re-
Blending is normally carried out ~ peating units in the main chain
to mix fibres, which may be of ; occur in blocks, e:g, (a)m-
different physical properties, : (b)n-(a)p-(b)q- where a and b
market values, or colours. ~ represent the repeating units.

7extile=========-"
22
================*
• block printed
a hand printing method using
wood, metal, or l,i noleum
blocks. The design is carved on
the blocks, one block for each
colour. The dye is applied to the
block printed I boliT1ia (elysian) II
I to hold pins around which
I
thread is intertwmed. Bobbins
are used to hold and feed the
thread. Also called pillow late
I or bobbinet.
I • boiled wool

block, which is pressed or ham- I a wool or wool blend fabric,

mered against the fabric. woven or knitted which has
• blotch print been given a course, crepe tex-
refers to a print in which a large I ture by heavy felting or by
area of uniform colour is I

printed. The printed ground is

referred to as the blotch.
• blowing room
the room in a cotton spinning
mill where the preparatory pro- I

cesses of opening, cleaning and I

blending are carried out. putting it in a high temperature
I bath.
• bobbin
I • bolivia (elysian)
a small, wooden or metal core
on which yarn is wound. wool sometimes contains alpaca
I

or mohair. A pile weave(cut)

• bobbin cleaner with a diagonal pattern.
a machine that removes any ~ Pile face, which varies in
remammg yarn or rovmg I depth. Soft and has a velvety
from bobbins (quills) after feel. Usually piece dyed. Has
they have been used in the lines or ridges in the warp or
looms, spinning machines, or I in a diagonal direction on one
winders. I side. Comes in light, medium

• bobbin lace and heavy weights. Cloaking

and coatings and some suits.
a handmade lace using a pillow

11======ThaiIe
 textilestudycenter.com

II boll I boucle 23
*========~======
• boll ~ whose total mass is usually 2
a seed case and its contents, as ; kg.
of cotton or flax. ; • boot-hose
• bolt of cloth ; in the first half of the 17th cen-
a rolled or folded length of cloth. tury, stockings usually without
:
~ feet worn in the soft fashion-
• bombazine I able boots with turned cup-

usually has silk or rayon warp ~ shaped tops ('bucket' tops). The
and worsted filling. Imitations : lace-edge of the boot-hose is
are made in cotton. ~ turned over the boot-tops. They
Very fme English fabric. N arne wqe worn over the silk stock-
;
comes from Latin 'bombycinum' :I ings to protect them in the long
which means a silk in texture. : boots.
It is one of the oldest materials ~ • border
known and was originally all-
~ a design placed along the edge
silk.
I of the fabric or engineered in
Infants wear. When dyed black
~ such a way that it will fall on
it is used in the mourning cloth
: the edge of the fmished prod-
trade.
~ uct. Border designs are fre-
• bonded ; quently used in skirts and
a fabric composed of 2 or more : dresses.
I
layers joined together with an : • botany wool
adhesive ,resin, foarn, or fusible I
: a term applied to tops, yarns
membrane.
~ and fabrics made from merino
• bonnet ; wool. The term originated from
ladies headdress covering the ~ Botany Bay in Australia.
back of the head and having the : • boucle
brim in funnel form to shade I
: 1. a fancy yarn with an irregu-
the face. I
: lar pattern of curls and loops
• book ~ 2. a fabric made from boucle
a parcel of hanks of raw silk ; yarn. Wool, also in rayon, silk,
, II
=24========~.
conon, linen, blends, hair fi-
bres. Any weave, knit. A
draw~ out or ri~ge~, lo~ped
yarn IS used to gIve It a kinky
appearance at intervals. Made
in a variety of weights. Boucle
yarns are usually in both the
filling and the warp. Fabrics
are usually springy to handle
on account of the highly
twisted yarns used to achieve
the boucle effect.
• bourdalou
hat-ribbon, finer than gros-
grain, round the foot of the
crown of hats. This trimming
is sometimes finished off with
a buckle and has been in use
since the 17th century.
• bourdon lace
a machine made lace on a
mesh ground usually in a
scroll design outlined with a
heavy cord.
• bourette
a fancy plied yarn with nubs and
knots of another colour.
• bourrelet
a double knit fabric with a
rippled, corded texture running
horizontally.
11======ThaiIe
bourrUUou I bn4Iti"B(bRstejibres) II
~ • boxtruck
; a box mounted on wheels and
~ used for hauling such articles as
: bobbins and spools from one
I department of a mill to another.
• brandenburg coat
I fourth quarter of 17th century,
I a loose overcoat with rurned-
~ back cuffs. The sleeves are
: made in one with the rest of the
I garment.
I • breaker lap
I a roll of loosely matted cotton
fibres formed on the breaker
picker from tufts of opened cot-
I ton.
I • breaker picker
I the first of the two units of older
style picker machines. In this
unit the raw cotton is partially
cleaned by beating and fluffmg
I and then fed into a finisher
picker.
• breaking (baste fibres)
the deformation of the plant
structure by flattening the stem,
I loosening the bond between the
fibre bundles and the wood, and
breaking the woody part into
I short pieces, to facilitate their
I removal from the fibre by
 textilestudycenter.com

II breaking and opening machine 11ni9: =========~2=5

scotching. Breaking by means ~ called the actual breaking
of rollers is often referred to as I stress.
rolling. ; • breaking tension
• breaking and opening ; the maximum tension devel-
machine : oped in a specimen stretched to
a line of maclUnes, working as ~ Olpture. It is correcdyexpressed
a unit, that tear apart and par- I in Newton's.
tially clean matted, com- I • breast beam
pressed, baled cotton.
o 0 ; the bar, at front of the loom,
• breaking elongation : that guides the woven cloth
the elongation, or extension, of ~ onto the cloth roll.
a substance at its breaking load. ~ • breathable coated
• breaking length ~ refers to a coating that repels
the length of a specimen whose I water but allows water vapour
weight is equal to the breaking ~ (thus perspiration) to pass
load. : through, allowing garments to
~ be comfortable and waterproof
• breaking load
; . Used in garments for active
the load that develops the : wear and winter sports.
breaking tension. The recom- I
mended unit of measurement is :I • Breton lace
the Newton. : lace embroidered on an open
~ net with heavy often brightly
• breaking stress
I colour yarn. May be made by
the maximum stress developed ~ hand or machine. Said to have
in a specimen stretched to rup- : originated in the Breton region
ture. The force is usually related ~ of France.
to the area of the unstrained
specimen. If the actual stress, ~ • bright
defmed in terms of the area of ~ descriptive of textile materials,
the strained specimen, is used, ; particularly man-made fibres, the
then its maximum value is : natural lustre of which has not
I

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
26 brin I brocade II
================*
been substantially reduced. ~ dresses, particularly the tailored
Bright may denote the presence ; type in plain colours, blouses,
of a very small amount of ~ summer wear of all kinds.
lustrate, insufficient to reduce : • brocade
the lustre of the fibre significantly. I
cotton brocade often has the
.brin I ground of cotton and the pat-

a single filament of silk resulting I tern of rayon and silk. Pattern

from the degumming ofthe bave is in low relief. Jacquard and
withdrawn from the cocoon. dobby rich, heavy, elaborate
I design effect. Sometimes with
• broadcloth
coloured or metallic threads
cotton and silk, and rayon. Plain making the design usually
weave an<j. in mo~t cotton ~ against a satin weave back-
broadcloths made wIth a very I ground. The figures in brocade
fme crosswise rib weave. Origi- : are rather loose, while in dam-
nally indicated a cloth woven on I ask the figure threads are actu-
a wide loom. Very closely wo- I ally bound into the material.
ven and in cotton, made from I The pattern may be satin on a
either carded or combed yarns. twill ground or twill on a satin
The filling is heavier and has I ground. The motifs may be of
less twist. It is fmer than pop- I flowers, foliage, scrollwork,
lin when made with a crosswise I pastoral scenes, or other de-
rib and it is lustrous and soft: signs. Generally reputed to
with a good texture. Thread ~ have been developed from the
count ranges from high quality ; Latin name (brocade' which
144 x 6 count down to 80 x 60. : means to figure.
May be bleached, dyed, or I
printed, also is often
mercerised. Ifnot of a high qual- I
ity or treated it wrinkles very :
badly. Finest quality made from I
Egyptian or combed pima cot- I
ton, also sea island. Shirts,

11=======Texnle

II brocatelle I buckram
• brocatelle
silk, rayon, cotton, and synthet-
ics. Originally supposed to be
an imitation of Italian tooled
leather satin or twill pattern on
plain or satin ground. It is
recognised by a smooth raised
figure of warp-effect, usually in
a satin weave construction, on
a filling effect background. True
brocatelle is a double weave
made of silk and linen warp
and a silk and linen filling.
Present-day materials may have
changed from the XIII and XIV
century fabrics, but they still
have the embossed figure in the
tight, compact woven warp-ef-
fect. While brocatelle is some-
times classed as a flat fabric, it
shows patterns that stand out
in 'high relief' in a sort of blis-
tered effect. Draperies, furni-
ture, coverings and general
decorating purposes as well as
all kinds of after 5 pm wear.
• broken end
a thread or strand of cotton
which has broken in a textile
machine.
• broken twill ~ made in linen in a single fab-
a general term for twill weave ;
T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
textilestudycenter.com
27
*================
~ fabrics in which the twill line
; changes direction.
; • brushed/napped
; a finishing process to raise a nap
: on surface of the fabric using
~ wire brushes or other abrasive
I materials.
I • brushstroke
; refers to a print style in which
: colour looks as if it had been
I
: applied with a brush.
I
: • Brussels lace
~ may be a bobbin or needle-
I point lace usually on a machine
~ made ground. Sometimes de-
: signs are appliqued on the
~ ground. As Brussels Belgium
; is important in the history of
: lace-making, many different
I
: types of lace are called Brus-
I.
I sels lace.
I
buckram
cotton, some in linen, syn-
~ thetics. Plain cheap, low-tex-
: tured, loose weave, very
~ heavily sized and stiff. Also,
; fabrics are glued together,
: one is open weave and the
~ other much finer. Some is also
ric. Also called crinoline book
28
=========*
muslin or bookbinding. Name
from BOlc hara in southern
Russia, where it was first
made. Softens with heat. Can
be shaped while warm. Used
for interlinings and all kinds
of stiffening in clothes, book
binding, and for millinery (be-
cause it can be moistened and
shaped). Used to give stiffness
to leather garments not as
stiff and often coloured is
called 'tarlatan'.
• buckskin
a heavy satin weave fabric, of-
ten of fIne merino wool, with a
smooth face.
• buffalo check
a bold check pattern with blocks
of 2 or 3 contrasting colours.
Often red and black in twill
weave.
• bulked yarn
a yarn that has been treated
mechanically, physically or
chemically so as to have a no-
ticeably greater bulk.
• bunch (flax)
the aggregate of pieces, which are
tied up with two or more ties I most common chemical used.)
preparatory to baling.
1I======Thmle
buckskin I bur1HJUt II
I • bunting
I a plain, drapery, loosely wo-
ven fabric most often used for
flags and decoration. Also
I called banner cloth.
• burl
I a wool trade term for an imper-
I fection.
I • burlap
I a loosely constructed, heavy
weight, plain weave fabric used
as a carpet backing, and as in-
I expensive packaging for sacks
of grain or rice. Also, as fash-
ion dictates, burlap may also
I appear as a drapery fabric.
I
I
I .burn-out
I
a brocade-like pattern effect
I
created on the fabric through
the application of a chemical,
I instead of colour, during the
I burn-out printing process.
(Sulphuric acid, mixed into a
colourless print paste, is the
; Many simulated eyelet effects
 textilestudycenter.com

II burry wool I cablestitch 29

can be created using this
method. In these instances, the
chemical destroys the fibre and
creates a hole in the fabric in a
specific design, where the
chemical comes in contact with
the fabric. The fabric is then
over-printed with a simulated
embroidery stitch to create the
eyelet effect. However, burnout
effects can also be created on
velvets made of blended fibres,
in which the ground fabric is of
one fibre like polyester, and the
pile may be of a cellulose fibre
like rayon or acetate. In this
case, when the chemical is
printed in a certain pattern, it
destroys the pile in those areas
where the chemical comes in
contact with the fabric, but
leaves the ground fabric un-
harmed.
*================
~ tionally rendered as a flowering
; plant with a curling bud at the
: top. The motif is also some-
~ times reduced to a floral pattern
~ designed within the form of the
; plant.
; • butcher's linen
~ a strong, heavy, plain weave
: linen fabric with uneven, thick
~ and thin yarns in both warp and
; weft, often used in tablecloths
: and aprons.
I
: • buti
I
: a diminutive of buta very com-
~ monly used in Indian textile
~ design.
I • butt
; to level the root ends of flax
: straw at any stage of process-
~ ing by vibrating it upright on a
~ flat surface, either by hand or

• burry wool ; mechanically.

wool contaminated with veg- ; • cabin
etable impurities adhering to ~ a shelved compartment in
the fleece. : which the filling yarn of various
• buta ~ sizes, colours, and quality is
; stored until requisitioned.
literally, 'a plant'. A floral mo-
tif, derived generally from Per- ; • cable. stitch
sian sources, much used in In- I a knit fabric stitch that produces
dian textile design, and tradi- d design that looks like a heavy

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
30 cabled yarn I calico II
=================*
cord, common in sweaters and I the drawing rollers, into a
hosiery. I loosely matted layer.
• cabled yarn I • calendared

two or more folded yarns I a flat, smooth, glossy fInish ap-

twisted together in one or more plied to the fabric by passing it
operations. Combinations of ~ through heavy rollers under
folded yarn( s) and single I pressl're and usually heat. Cire,
yarn(s) may be described as chintz, moire, & glazing are
cabled yarns, e.g., a single yarn examples of calendared fInishes.
twisted together with two I • c alend armg .
folded yarns to give softness to I
the resulting yarn. In the tyre- the process of passing fabric
yarn and tyre-cord sections of ~ through a calendar in which a
the industry, cabled yarns are I highly polished, usually heated,
termed cabled cords or cords. steel bowl rotates at a higher
I surface speed than the softer
• cake I (for example, cotton- or paper-
the package, roughly cylindrical filled) bowl against which it
in shape, of continuous-fila- works, thus producing a glaze
ment yarn produced in the vis- ~ on the face of the fabric that is
cose spinning industry by i in contact with the steel bowl.
means of a topham box. The friction ratio is the ratio of
• calash the peripheral speed of the
I faster steel bowl to that of the
a protective folding hood worn slower bowl and is normally in
to protect high headdresses I the range 1.5 to 3.0.
1770s-1830s and made like a I
sunbonnet. • calico
1. a tightly-woven cotton type
• calendar rolls
I fabric with an all-over print,
a unit on the sliver lapper, rib- usually a small floral pattern on
bon lapper, and combing ma- a contrasting background
chine which presses the ribbon I colour. Common end-uses in-
lap or sliver, as it comes from I dude dresses, aprons, and

11======ThaiIe

II cambric I camel hair
quilts. A lightweight, plain
weave fabric usually cotton or
cotton blend typically printed
with small, all over, brightly
colour designs. Used frequently
in aprons, quilts & curtains.
2. originated in Calcutta, India,
and is one of the oldest cottons.
Rather coarse and light in
weight. Pattern is printed on
one side by discharge or resists
printing. It is not always fast in
colour. Sized for crispness but
washes out and requires starch
each time. Designs are often
geometric in shape, but origi-
nallyelaborate designs of birds,
trees, and flowers. Very little on
the market to day, but the de-
signs are still in use on other
fabrics and sold as 'calico print'.
- cambric
1. a plain weave, traditionally
light weight cotton fabric with
a lustre on the surface. Used for
handkerchiefs underwear,
shirts, aprons, and tablecloths.
2. soft, closely woven, light. Ei-
ther bleached or piece dyed.
Highly mercerised, lint free.
Calendared on the right side
with a slight gloss. Lower quali-
ties have a smooth bright fIn-
T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
textilestudycenter.com
31
*=================
~ ish. Similar to batiste but is
; stiffer and fewer slubs. Laun-
: ders very well. Has good body,
~ sews and fInishes well. Origi-
~ nally made in Cambria, France
; of linen and used for church
: embroidery and table linens.
I
: - camel hair
I
: 1. the hair of the camel
~ (camelus bactrianus) or drom-
; edary. It comprises the strong,
: coarse, outer hair and the un-
I
: dercoat.
~ 2. bactrian species of the Chi-
; nese and Mongolian deserts.
: Under hair is best. It is light-
~ weight, lustrous and soft. it
I ranges from a light tan to a
I
brownish-black colour. Usually
left its natural tones but can be
~ dyed-usually navy and some
; red. It has quite a long nap and
: is warm. Better grades are eX'-
~ pensive. Sometimes blended
I with wool to reduce the cost and
; increase the wear. All wool
: camel hair is not as lustrous and
~ is spongy. Can have either a rich
; nap or a flat fInish. Wears fairly
~ well, particularly if blended.
: Coats, women's suits, sports
~ coats, sweaters, some blankets
; and put in some very expensive
32 C/l.mQCII.S I Canton flannel II

=================*
oriental rugs. It is also used in ~ - candlewick
(fme) over coating, top coating, I a tufted pile fabric with a fuzzy
hosiery and transmission belts, surface that looks like chenille.
which will withstand dampness Looping a heavy plied yarn on
and moisrure. I a muslin base then cutting the

I loops makes it. Used for bed-

spreads, robes, and draperies.
- candlewick fabric
an unbleached muslin bed
~ sheeting (also called Kraft mus-
I lin) used as a base fabric on

~ which a chenille effect is formed

by application of candlewick
I (heavy plied yarn) loops, which

I are then cut to give the fuzzy

effect and cut yarn appearance

- camocas
was popular in the 14th and
15th centuries. It was a very
beautiful fabric which was often
stripped with gold or silver. It
of trUe chenille yarn.
I
: - canons
~ 17th century, full, wide ruffies/
I flounces attached at the bottom
~ of breeches, especially petticoat
: breeches. It was a sort of half-
I stocking, at fIrst long and nar-

had a satin base and was dia- I row, then wider and decorated

pered like fme linen. with flounces and lace.

- can
a large cylindrical container for
receiving and holding lengths of
sliver delivered from the front
of a carding machine, drawing
frame, or combing machine.
I
: _ canton flannel
I
: 1. a heavy, warm, strong cotton
~ or cotton blend fabric with a
; twill face and a brushed back .
~ Used for nightwear, underwear,
: gloves, and linings. Originally
I

11========Thaile

I~ canvas I carblmising
produced in canton china.
2. characteristics the filling yarn
is a very loosely twisted and soft
and later brushed ' to produced
a soft nap on the back, the warp
is medium in size. The face is
twill and comes bleached, un-
bleached, dyed, and some is
printed.
- canvas
mostly rugged, heavy material
made from plied yarns. Has
body and strength. It is usually
manufactured in the grey state
but some is dyed for different
uses. Tents, sails, mailbags,
sacks, covers, etc. finer types
used for embroidery and paint-
ings. Hair canvas is an mterfac-
ing material in various weights.
- cape net
~ (wet process), followed by heat-
a stiff heavy net which can be
shaped when wet and holds that ~
nxtile========
textilestudycenter.com
33
*===============
~ shape when dried. Used for
; hats.
; - capotain
~ a high conical, high crowned
: and small-brimmed cap fash-
~ ionable in the 16th cenrury. In
; the mid-17th century worn by
~ supporters of the puritan frac-
: tion in England.
I
: - carbon
~ a term used to describe fibres
~ containing at least 98% of car-
; bon obtained by controlled
: pyrolosis of appropriate fibres.
I
: - carbonised rag fibre
l
: animal b '
fibre recovered y el-
~ ther the wet or the dry
; carbonising process.
; - carbonising
; a chemical process for eliminat-
: ing cellulose matter from ad-
~ mixture with animal fibres by
; degrading the cellulose material
~ to an easily friable condition.
: The process involves treatment
~ with an acid, as by the use of
; hydrochloric acid gas (dry pro-
: cess) or sulphuric acid solution
ing.
I
34
~~=============.
• card
a unit of a pattern chain used
on a jacquard loom. It is a card-
board strip with holes (similar
to those in a player piano roll
punched in it), which serve to
control the action of the weav-
ing mechanism. It is joined, by
lacing, to other cardboard strips
to make a pattern chain.
• card clothing
special cloth or rubber, studded
with wire teeth, which serve to
open up the cotton fibres, clean
them of impurities, and align
them in parallel order. The
material is afftxed to the vari-
ous working parts of the card-
ing machines.
• card cutting
the act of punching holes in jac-
quard cards according to a pat-
tern or design draft, so that
when they are set up in the
loom, they control the weaving
mechanism and the pattern will
be woven into the cloth.
• card cylinder
that part of a jacquard loom
which holds the pattern cards in
position while plungers which
11======'Ikti1e
card I cardal II
I control the weaving of patterns,
I pass through the holes in cards.
I • card grinding
the periodic sharpening of the
wire bristles of the carding ma-
I chine with an abrasive cylinder.
• card punching machine
I a machine which perforates the
I cards that are used in jacquard
looms to control the weaving of
designs and patterns in the
I cloth.
I • card sliver
I a thick, untwisted rope of cot-
ton fibres, uniform in thickness
and relatively free from neaps,
I which represents the finished
I product of the carding machin~.
I • card stripping
the act of removing adhering
cotton fibres from the wire
I teeth of the carding machine
I with a small tooth-clad roller.
I • carded
I a yarn in which the fibres have
been partially straightened and
cleaned prior to spinning. The
I yarn is generally coarser and
more uneven than a combed
yarn.

II carding I cashmere
• carding
a process which eliminates fi-
bres too short for inclusion in
the spun yarn. The process also
removes dirt and foreign mat-
ter still remaining in the fibre
mass, and arranges the fibres
into a very thin layer.
• carding drum
the large rapidly revolving cyl-
inder of the carding machine,
covered with several million
wire teeth, that picks up (pulls
out) the cotton fibres and ,
working in conjunction with
other rollers, combs the fibres
p:rrallel 'and removes small par-
ticles of dirt and knotted fibres.
• carding machine
a machine which completes the
cleaning of the cotton, arranges
the fibres so they are mostly
parallel, and transforms the cot-
ton from lap into sliver.
• carrier (colouration)
a type of accelerant, particularly
used in the dyeing and printing
of hydrophobic fibres with dis-
perse dyes.
• carrotting
the modification of the tips of
T e x t i l e = = = = = = = II
textilestudycenter.com
35
*===============
~ fur fibre (rabbit fur) by chemi-
I cal treatment to improve their
~ felting capacity. Reagents gen-
: erally used are mercury in ni-
~ tric acid and mixtures of oxidiz-
; ing and hydrolysing agents.
; • casein
~ the principal protein in milk. It
: serves as the raw material for
~ some regenerated protein fi-
; bres.
; • casement cloth
; a general term for sheer, light-
: weight, open weave fabrics
~ used for curtains and backing
~ for heavy drapery.
I • cashmere
; 1. a luxury fibre obtained from
~ the soft fleecy undergrowth of
: the Kashmir goat of Tibet,
~ Mongolia, China, Iran, Iraq,
; and India. Most commonly used
: in sweaters, shawls, suits, coats,
~ and dresses. Currently similar
I hair from animals bred selec-
~ tively from the feral goat popu-
: lation of Australia, New
~ Zealand and Scotland, is also
; being regarded as cashmere
: provided the fibre diameter is
~ similar. Fibre is cylindrical, soft
I and silken
36
====~-----=====.
2. it is more like wool than any ~ •
~ther h~ fibre. I:Ias ~ verr. soft
silky f~sh, very light m weIght.
Doesn t stand up to hard wear
on accoun.t of extremely so~t
do,:ny firush. Natural fibre IS
white, black, brown or grey but
can be died a variety of shades.
The textile industry is only in-
terested in the soft fibres. Knit-
ted into sweaters for men and
women, also women's dresses.
• cassock
three-quarter length coat cut
with wide, full sleeves and
wide throughout the body,
ending at thigh-height or be-
low. An unbelted overcoat,
open-sided and almost always
covered with braid and woven
ornament, it was worn from
the middle of the 16th century,
mainly for hunting and riding.
11======'&tih
cassock I causticising II
casting out
~ the act of rigging some of the
; pattern controlling hooks of a
: jacquard loom so that they will
~ not act, when the pattern to be
I woven does not require the ac-
tion of all the hooks.
I
I
• cationic
; a type of dye used on acrylic or
I
on modified polyester or modi-
I fied nylon yarn . Often used to
achieve cross-dyed effects cat-
ionic dye able yarn is woven in
I a pattern with regular yarn in
I the same fabric. The pattern
becomes visible by dyeing the
fabric in 2 baths, one for each
I of the types of yarn.
I • cationic dye
I a dye that dissociates in aque-
ous solution to give a positively
charged coloured ion.
I
• causticising
brief treatment of cellulose
I fabrics with caustic soda solu-
I tion at room temperature
without tension to improve
the colour yield in printing and
I dyeing, particularly with reac-
I tive dyes.
 textilestudycenter.com

II CII:Palier-style I celluJoseethanoate(ac:te) 37

• cavalier-style ~ rial component used in the pro-

the flamboyant men's fashion of
the first half of the 17th century.
The supporters of the English
king Charles I were called cava-
liers, in contrast to the plain
dressed puritans.
; duction of the manufactured fi-
: bres of acetate, rayon, and tri-
I
: acetate.
~ • cellulose diacetate
~ an ester of cellulose and
I ethanoic acid containing 48.8%

• cavalry twill ~ of combined ethanoic acid (ace-

a sturdy woven fabric with a : tic acid). This, however, is not
steep pronounced double twill ~ a commercial product. The
line. Often of cotton or wool but ; same term is sometimes used
may be any fibre. It is a strong : loosely to describe propane-
I
rugged cloth, quite elastic, : soluble (acetone-soluble) cellu-
I lose acetate.
smoother in rib, feels and effect
and made of worsted yarn and I • cellulose ethanoate (ac-
a firmer weave. It also re- ~ etate)
sembles tricotine but tricotine ~ an ester formed from cellu-
is much fmer with a double di- : lose and ethanoic acid (acetic
agonal. ~ acid) used to make acetate fi-
• cavings (flax) ; bres. The reaction proceeds
the reject from the bottom until primary cellulose acetate
:
ridge of a roughing-out machine ~ containing 60% of combined
consisting mostly of rough bits I ethanoic acid is formed. Sec-
of broken straw and some root ~ ondary cellulose acetate is
ends. : formed from the primary ac-
~ etate by partial hydrolysis. It
• cellulose ; is obtained by adding water in
a material derived from the cell : excess of that required to re-
walls of certain plants. Cellulose ~ act with the residual ethanoic
is used in the production of I anhydride, which thus allows
many vegetable fibres, as well ~ the hydrolysis to take place.
as being the major raw mate-

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
=3",,8==========* cellulosetrUuetate I challis II
• cellulose triacetate Icentrifugally in fibre form from
a cellulose acetate containing I the edge of a surface rotating
62.5% of combined ethanoic at high speed. The term is also
acid (acetic acid) but the term used to describe a method of
is generally used for primary I yarn formation involving a ro-
cellulose ethanoate (acetate) I tating cylindrical container, in
containing more than 60% of ~ which, the yarn passes down a
combined ethanoic acid. central guide tube and is then
I carried by centrifugal force to
• cellulose xanthate the inside of a rotating cylindri-
a series of compounds formed cal container.
between carbon disulphide and ~ • chaconne
cellulose in the presence of ;
strong alkali. type of cravat made of a rib-
I bon dangling from the shirt
• cendal collar to the chest. It takes its
silk material resembling taffeta. name from the dancer pecourt
It was made in various quali- I who danced a chaconne in
ties, sometimes even men- I 1692 with his cravat tied in
tioned as a luxury fabric, some- this way.
times only as cheap lining ma- _ chaff
terial. Widely used during the I
middle ages, but in the 17th a component of trash in cotton
century it was only used for lin- in the form of a heterogeneous
I assortment of vegetable frag-
mg.
ments, most of them being
_ centre front
small pieces of leaf and stalk.
it is the portion of the pattern I
- challis
or the garment which is sup- I
pose to come in the exact front. 1. a lightweight, soft plain
I weave fabric with a slightly
- centrifugal spinning I brushed surface. The fabric is

a method of man-made fibre often printed, usually in a flo-

production in which the molten I ral pattern. Challis is most of-
or dissolved polymer is thrown I ten seen in fabrics made of cot-

11======Thaile

II c,.~ I chantilly we
ton, wool, or rayon.
2. Anglo-Indian word 'shallee'
meaning soft, very lightweight.
May be dyed or printed with a
delicate floral pattern, paisleys,
or geometric patterns and faint
designs. Washable and origi-
nated in Norwich, England in
1832.
• chambray
1. a plain woven fabric that can
be made from cotton, silk, or
manufactured fibres, but is
most commonly cotton. It in-
corporates a coloured warp (of-
ten blue) and white filling yarns.
2. a lightweight, plain weave
fabric, with a colour warp and
white weft . Usually plain but
may be in stripes, checks, or
other patterns. Often used in
shirts, dresses children's
clothes.
• chameleon
a 3 tone effect that changes with
the angle of view. It is achieved
by using a warp yarn of one
colour and double weft yarns of
2 different colours. It is often
found in taffetas, poplins or
faille's of silk or made filament
yarns.
T h m l e = = = = = = = = II
textilestudycenter.com
39
*===============
~ • chamois cloth
I characteristics fabric is napped,
~ sheared, and dyed to simulate
: chamois leather. It is stiffer
~ than kasha and thicker, softer
; and more durable than flannel-
: ette. Must be designated as 'cot-
~ ton chamois-colour cloth'.
I
: • chamoisette
I
: cotton, also rayon and nylon,
I knitted, double knit construc-
~ tion. A fme, firmly knit fabric
: that has a very short soft nap.
~ Nylon chamoisette is more of-
; ten called 'glove silk'.
; • chamois-like
; a hand suggesting the soft pli-
: able leather from the skin of the
I .
: chamOlS goat.
I
.• chand-tara
~ literally, 'moon and star', a pat-
; tern often-used in Indian textile .
I • chantilly lace
; a bobbin lace on a fine net
: ground characterised by delicate
~ motifs of scrolls, vines,
I branches, and flowers outlined
~ by a flat (cordon net) yarn. Of-
: ten in black. Originally made in
I Chantilly, France.
40 charged system I clH#eeloth II
================*
• charged system I • chauri
a method of dry cleaning in I a flywhisk made generally from
which an oil-soluble reagent a yak's tail. Important as a sym-
such as petroleum sulphonate is bol of royalty or divinity.
added to the solvent so that a • chausses en bours~
significant amount of water can I
be added to obtain a substan- early 17th century breeches
tially clear dispersion of water I made in bands and padded so
in the solvent. In a high-charged ~ they swelled out at the bottom,
system the concentration of ; ending in a flattened balloon
added reagent, a so-called de- shape.
tergent is 4% while, in a low- • check
charged system the concentra- I a small pattern of squares or
tion ranges from %% to 2%. I rectangles. It may be printed,
• charmeuse yarn dyed, cross-dyed or woven
a soft lightweight woven satin I ~to the fabric (as a dobby or
fabric with good drape. It is : pcquard).
made with high twist yarns, has I • cheese
a semi-lustrous face and a dull I a roll of yarn built up on a pa-
back. Often used for blouses, per or wooden .tube in a form
intimate apparel. that resembles a bulk cheese.
• charvet • cheesecloth
It is a soft, silky fibre with high I
originally used as a wrapping
lustre and a warp face. It origi- I material for pressing cheese.
nated as a silk fibre but is now I Loosely woven, thin, light in
made of manufactured fibres. weight, open in construction, and
• chaubandi chola soft. Carded yarns are always
a short tunic or shirt fastened I used. It is also called gauze
with tie-cords worn by children. I weave. When woven in 36'
widths it is called tobacco cloth.
• chaugoshia (topi) I When an applied finish is added,
a four-cornered cap. I it is called buckram, crinoline, or

11======ThmJe
 textilestudycenter.com

II chemic I cheviot 41
*================
bunting. In the grey cloth, it is ~ textile fibres, mostly plain
used for covering tobacco plants, ; weave. Characteristics warp
tea bags and wiping cloths. Fin- : yarn of any major textile fi-
ished cloth is used for curtains, ~ bre. Filling of chenille yarns
bandages, dust cloths, cheap ~ (has a pile protruding all
bunting, hat lining, surgical ; around at right angles). The
gauze, fly nets, food wrapping, : word is French for caterpillar
e.g., meat and cheese, costumes ~ and fabric looks hairy. Do not
and basket tops. I confuse with tufted effects
:I obtained without the use of
- chemic
: true chenille filling. For ex-
calcium or sodium hypochlo- ~ ample millinery, rugs, decora-
rite. ; tive fabrics, trimmings, and
- chemicking : upholstery.
I
bleaching non-protein fibre : - cheviot
material by means of a dilute :I 1. a rough surfaced fabric of
hypochlorite solution. ~ wool with a heavy nap.
- chemise ~ 2. a loosely woven tweed
a light undergarment made ; fabric with a shaggy texture .
from linen, for both sexes. : Cheviot was originally
~ made from the wool of the
_ chenille
; cheviot sheep in the hills at
1. a yarn with fuzzy pile pro- : the bordering England and
I
truding from all sides . It has a : Scotland.
velvety caterpillar-like appear- ~ Wool originally and mostly
ance. (the term chenille is de- ; made from wool from the
rived from the French word for : cheviot sheep but today also
I
caterpillar) : made of blends, spun synthet-
2. a fabric made with chenille ~ ics, crossbred and reused
yarn. ; wools. Very rugged, harsh,
- chenille fabric : uneven surface that does not
~ hold a crease and sags with
cotton and any of the main
I wear. Resembles serge but is

ThmIe======11
42 chevron I chi".silk II
========*
much more rugged and coarse ~
and will not shine because of ;
the rough surface. Also sold
as tweed. For example coats, I
suits, sportswear, and sports I
coat .
• chevron
a design which incorporates
herringbone elements of zigzag
stripes or joined.
• chiffon I • chikan kari
1. a plain woven lightweight, I embroidery in white cotton
extremely sheer, airy, and soft thread upon fme white cotton
silk fabric, containing highly fabric, like, muslin. Several
twisted filament yarns. The I techniques in chikan kari are
fabric, used mainly in evening I known, Lucknow was a famous
dresses and scarves, can also I centre of fme workmanship.
be made from rayon and: • children's
_other . manufactured
. fibres. .~ .
refers to deSIgns .
SUItable for the
2. a lIghtweIght, sheer, plain ~ children's market.
weave fabric with a dull sur- .
face, a soft hand , and good ~ • child's pudding
drape. It is made with fine I small round hats for children
high twisted yarns and has an I made of cloth or straw, form-
even or close to even number ing a shock-absorber to protect
of threads per inch in the ~ them if they fell.
warp .andilkweft. Originally ~ • chi na S1·lk
rnadems but now found in;. ..
polyester and other man-made : s~ ongI~ally hand woven in
filament yarns, used in dresses I chin~ of silk from the Bonabyx
blouses, scarves, veils. ~on, v~ry soft and extremely
lightweIght but fairly strong.

II = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
 textilestudycenter.com

II chinchilla I chino 43
*================
Irregularities of threads caused ~ worked into nubs and balls.
by the extreme lightness and ; Cotton warp is often used be-
softness are characteristic of the : cause it cannot show from ei-
fabric. Used mosdy for linings ~ ther side. It i made in medium
and underlining, and could be ~ and heavy weights and is very
used for blouses. ; warm and cosy fabric. Takes
: its name from Chinchilla,
~ Spain where it was invented.
~ In cotton, used for baby's blan-
; kets and bunting bags.
; • chino
~ 1. a sturdy, medium weight,
: twill fabric usually of cotton or
~ a cotton blend. It has often been

• chinchilla ; used for summer weight mili-

: tary uniforms, sportswear and
1. a thick, heavy, pile fabric with ~ work clothes. It is often found
surface curls or nubs, originally I in khaki and tan colours.
made to suggest chinchilla fur.
I 2. cotton twill combined two-
It is often double faced, it may
ply warp and filling. Has a
be woven or knit and is often I
sheen that remains. Fabric was
used as coating.
I purchased in china (thus the
2. cotton or wool, and some name) by the U.S. army for
manmade and synthetics. Sa_I uniforms. Originally used for
teen or twill construction with ~ army cloth in England many
extra fillings for long floats. ; years before and dyed olive
Does not resemble true chin- : drab. Fabric is mercerised and
chilla fur, has small nubs on ~ sanforised. Washes and wears
the surface of the fabric which ~ extremely well with a minimum
are made by the chinchilla ma- ; of care. Army uniforms, sum-
chine. It attacks the face and : mer suits and dresses, sports-
causes the long floats to be .I wear.

Textile=====---=== II
44 chinoiserie I choU II
========*
• chinoiserie .I the reaCtlon
. of a fibre with chlo-
a old Chinese decorative style ; rine. The chlorine may be in the
still used ·intextiles. ~ form of a gas, or its solution ill'
• chintz : water or it may be obtained from
. ~ a suitable compound.
1. a plam-weave fabric which .
has been glazed to pr~duce a ~ • chlorofibre (fibre) (generic
polished look. Usually made of ~ name)
cotton, this fabric is most com- ; a term used to describe fibres
monly used in blouses, dresses, : composed of synthetic linear
draperies, and slipcovers. ~ macromolecules having in the
~ chain more than 50% (by mass)
2. a glazed solid or printed fabric
usually ofcotton or a cotton blend; of chloroe~ene (vinyl chloride)
3. a plain weave fabric, usuall : or . 1,1-dlch~oroethene (vi-
cotton, with a multicolour prlt ~ nylidene chlon~e). groups. If the
which mayor may not be I rest of the cham IS made up of

glazed. If it is unglazed it is ~ cyanoethene (acylonitrile)

called cretonne. : groups then the chloroethene
I content must be greater than

• chirimen ~ 65%, thus excluding modacrylic

a Japanese term describing a : fibres from this defInition.
dull crepe fabric made with a ~ • chogaichoga
course yarn. Originally of silk I
but now found in man-made : a loose, sleeved coa~-like gar-
filaments such as polyester. ~ ment ~~~rnth°ver an mner gar-
I ment lTh.e e angarakha (q.v.),
• chite : generally sumptuous and ap-
painted linen, originally from ~ propriate for ceremonial occa-
Chitta (India) which started the ; sions. Turkish origin, the
fashion for painted linens in the :I chogha was also known as a
17th and 18th centuries. : chugha, chuha orjuha, in Rus-
I sia as shuba or sbubka.
• chlorination
I • choli
when used with reference to tex-
~e processing, a tenn indicating' a short, bodice-like breast gar-

Thmle

II chol" I circular knit
ment of wide popularity among
women in India, from early
times. Related to the classic
cholaka mentioned in Sanskrit
literature. The garment is worn
in many styles, thus, with back
covering or without, fastened
with strings or extended cloth-
pieces, with shaped breast-
pieces or flat, etc.
- cholu
a loose, shirt-like garment .
• chrome dye
a mordant dye capable of form- I
ing a chelate complex with a I
chromium atom. : • circular knit
• chrome mordant process
a method of dyeing whereby the
fibre is mordant with a solution
of a chromium compound and
subsequently dyed with a suit-
able chrome dye.
T e x t i u = = = = = = = = II
textilestudycenter.com
45
*=================
~ - chromophore
~ that part of the molecular struc-
; ture of an organic dye or pig-
: ment responsible for colour.
I
: - chrysalis
I
: the form taken by a silkworm
~ in the dormant stage of devel-
; opment between larva and
: moth. It is dark brown and
~ fragments of it can often be
~ detected in silk waste, especially
; noils.
; - churidar
~ with bangle-like gathers or
: wrinkles, as in a churidar payan.
I
I
: refers to fabrics knit on a circu-
~ lar knitting machine, i.e. one
; which has its needles arranged
: in a circle thus producing the
~ fabric in tubular form. The fab-
I rics may be sold tubular or slit
: and sold open width. A circular
46
==~~~~~~==*
knitting machine may be used
to produce full width fabrics or
narrow shaped components
such as for hosiery.
• eire
a fInishing process that produces
a high gloss on the surface on the
fabric by passing it through heavy
rollers (calendering) . Fabrics
made of thermoplastic fIbres like
nylon or polyester is cared by cal-
endaring with heat and pressure
alone. Other fabrics like rayon or
silks are calendared with wax or
other compounds.
• eisele velvet
a velvet with a pattern formed
by contrast in cut and uncut
loops.
• classing
a process by which whole
fleeces are separated into differ-
ent classes before being baled
and sold.
• clear
in synthetic fIbres the term clear
is commonly used to denote the
absence of delustrant.
• clip dot /clip spot
a design effect created on a
11======TC:ai1e
eire I cloth II
I woven fabric by the use of ex-
I tra yarns which are woven into
the fabric at a certain spot then
allowed to float over the fabric
I to the next spot. The float
threads are later trimmed but
often are allowed to protrude
~ from the surface of the fabric
; as part of the design.
: . .
~ • cloquet bhster fabric
; a general term to describe fab-
rics with a blister (pucker) on
the surface. The blister may be
I created by several different
methods such as printing with
caustic soda or other chemicals,
I by weaving together yarns un-
I der different tension, or by
weaving together yarns with
different shrinkage properties.
• closed shed
I
that shed in which some of the
I warp yarns are crossed over
others. The distinction between
closed shed and open shed
I arises only in weaving cross-
I thread tissues, such as gauze
I
weave and leno weave.
• cloth
a generic term embracing most
textile fabrics. The term was
 textilestudycenter.com

II clothing wool I coif 47

*================
originally applied to wool fab- ~ but may be done simply to al-
ric suitable for clothing. ; ter the hand or appearance of
: the fabric. Polyurethane, acrylic
~ and PVC resins are common
~ types of coating.

I.cockade
I a ribbon bow deriving from the
~ tie attaching the brim of a
• clothing wool : cocked hat. Originally decora-
~ tive, it was also used as politi-
wools of short fibre, not suit-
; cal identification, thus the white
able for combing, and used in
: cockade was worn by the
the manufacture of woollens.
~ jacobites, and the tricoleur by
• cluny lace ~ the French republicans.
a heavy bobbin lace using thick I • cocked hat
yarns usually of cotton or linen.
; a hat which is styled with the
Most often done in geometric
~ brim turned up. Particularly
patterns. Used for curtains doi-
: applied to styles of the 17th and
lies and trim for apparel.
~ 18th century.
• coarse ~ • cocoon (silk)
having thick yarns.
~ an egg-shaped casing of silk
• coated ; spun by the silkworm to pro-
refers to the application of ma- : tect itself as a chrysalis.
I
terial such as plastic resin, wax, : • cocoon stripping
oil, varnish or lacquer to the I
: the first threads secreted by the
surface of the fabric. Applica-
~ silkworm when it fmds a place
tion methods include dipping,
; to form its cocoon.
spraying, brushing, calendaring
or knife coating. Coating is of- ; • coif
ten applied to make a fabric ~ medieval to 17th century term
water repellent or waterproof : for close-fitting head covering.
I

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
"",48===========;oifTUre en bouffims I cOUJur constIJney II
Worn in the later period exclu- I this may be carried out in a
sively by women. I heated environment, colour,
and sensation. That character-
• coiffure en bouffons
istic of the visual sensation,
women's hairstyle from the end I which enables the eye to distin-
of the reign of Louis XIII, tufts guish differences in its quality,
of crimped hair over the such as, may be caused by dif-
temples, while the forehead was I ferences in the spectral distri-
covered by a fringe known as a I bution of the light rather than
garcette. by differences in the spatial dis-
• coiling head tribution or fluctuations with
a device at the front of carding I time of an object. The particu-
machines, drawing frames, and I lar visual sensation (as defined
combing machines that depos- above) caused by the light emit-
its the sliver in even coiled lay- ted by, transmitted through, or
I reflected from the object.
ers in tall cylindrical cans.
Colour can be described ap-
.coir proximately in terms of hue,
1. a reddish-brown-to-buff ~ saturation and lightness, or
coloured coarse fibre obtained I specified numerically by chro-
from the fruit of the palm co- maticity cQ-ordinates.
cos nucifera. • colour constancy
2. this seed fibre is obtained I
the ability of a coloured object
from the husk of the coconut, I to give the same general colour
brush-making, door mats, fish
I impression when viewed under
nets, cordage.
different illuminates, the ob-
• cold drawing server having been chromati-
the drawing of synthetic fila- I cally adapted in each case. The
ments or ftlms without the in- I most common comparison is
tentional application of external made between the impression
heat. Free drawing of ftlaments under artificial light, e.g, tung-
or ftlms at a neck is also referred I sten filament, and that under
to as cold drawing even though I daylight.

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 textilestudycenter.com
II colour Ipullity I combing 49
*================
• colour quality ~ • combed

a specification of colour in terms ~ refers to a process in the manu-

of both hue and saturation, but ; facture of cotton and other
not luminance. : staple yarns. The fibre is
~ combed to remove foreign mat-
• colour value
I ter and the shorter, undesirable
the colour yield of a colourant, : fibres leaving longer. more de-
compared with a standard of ~ sirable fibres tha; become
e~ual cost. It is ~sually deter- ~ straightened & aligned in par-
mmed by.comparmg the c~st of ; allel before spinning into yarn.
colourauon at equal vIsual : Combed yarns are fmer. cleaner
strength. Comparisons are nor- ~ and more even than th~se that
mally made between products ; are not combed.
of similar hue and properties.
~ • combed yarn
• colour yield
. ; yarn produced from fibres that
the depth of colour obtamed : have been carded (or prepared)
when a standard weight of ~ and combed.
colourant is applied to a sub- I •
strate under specified condi- : • comber sliver
tions. ~ the loose, untwisted strand of
• colourfastness ~ cotton fibres produced by the
; combing machines from ribbon
a term used to describe a dyed : lap.
fabric's ability to resist fading I
due to washing, exposure to :I • combination yarn
sunlight, and other environ- : a yarn in which there are dis-
mental conditions. ~ similar component. yarns espe-
• comb ; cially when these are of fibre
: and fIlaments.
a series of upright metal pegs I
which separate the individual :I • combing
warp strands and guide them : the combing process is an addi-
onto a beam in proper order. ~ tional step beyond carding. In

Textile======== II
50 combing nuu:hine I condenser II
=================*
this process the fibres are ar- I ponents, e.g., core spun or wrap
ranged in a highly parallel form, I spun.
and additional short fibres are I • compressive shrinkage
removed, producing high qual-
ity yarns with excellent strength, I a process in which fabric is
fineness, and uniformity. caused to shrink in length e.g.,
by compression. The process is
• combing machine I often referred to as CCS (con-
a machine which prepares rib- trolled compressive shrinkage).
bon lap for spinning into fme • conch or conque
yarn by removing short fibres, I
dirt, and neps and straighten- I
sort of large shell-shaped hat in
ing the remaining fibres into gauze or light crepe, mounted
parallel alignment. I on a wire framework, which
was in France mosdy worn my
• commode widows in the late 16th and
a wire frame on which the late I early 17th centuries. At the
17th century high ladies' head- I same time a similar veil, but
dress, the frontage was ad- generally much bigger and
justed. made of pale gauze, seems to
I have been high fashion in En-
• compact
I gland.
refers to a tight, dense fabric
I • condense dye
with a firm hand.
. a dye which, during or after
• composite .
application, reacts covalently
a solid product consisting of I with itself or other compounds,
two or more discrete physical ; other than the substrate, to
phases, including a binding form a molecule of greatly in-
material (matrix) and a fibrous I creased size.
material.
• condenser
• composite yarn
the last section of a condenser
a yarn composed of both staple I card: it divides a broad thin web
and continuous-f.tlament com- of fibres into narrow strips,

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II condensercard I conditioning 51
*=================
which is then consolidated by ~ the standard atmosphere for
rubbing into slubbings. I testing,

• condenser card ~ 3. to add relatively small quan-

: tities of water to textile materi-
a roller-and-clearer type of card,
~ als (raw materials, slivers, yarns
as distinct from a flat card,
; and fabrics). The object of con-
which converts fibrous raw
: ditioning is to prepare for test-
materials slubbings, by means
~ ing, or to bring textiles to
of a condenser.
~ agreed moisture content for
• condenser spun ; sale or to facilitate later pro-
descriptive of yarn spun from : cessing. Among methods used
slubbing. ~ for applying water are: a. me-
; chanical means during galling
• condensing : or winding, b. the use of condi-
the operation of dividing the ~ tioning machines, and storing
wide sheet of cotton fibres com- ~ in an atmosphere of very high
ing from the doffmg cylinder of ; relative humidity.
the carding machine into a num-
; • conditioner tube
ber of narrow ribbon-like
strands which, when acted upon ; a tube supplied with steam or
by the leather belts and rollers : hot air surrounding a melt-spun
of a condenser, are formed into ~ thread-line and located between
loose heavy strands (called rov- ; extrusion and wind-up, whose
ing) ready for spinning. : purpose is to control the fme
I
: structure of the yarn, cone, 1. a
• condition ~ conical support on which yarn
1. the moisture present in tex- ; is wound, 2. a conical package
tile fibres in their raw or partly : of yarn wound on a conical sup-
or wholly manufactured form, :I port.
2. to allow textile materials ~ • conditioning
(raw materiaL slivers, yarns,
and fabrics) to ~ome to hygro- ~ the act of exposing bobbins of
scopic equilibrium with the sur- ; filling yarn to steam or to a
rounding atmosphere or with ~ spray of conditioning solution

T~tile=========== II
52
================*
in order to set the twist, to re-
move kinks from the yarn, and
to prevent its kinking in subse-
quent processes.
• cone
(i) a tapered cylinder of wood,
metal, or cardboard around
which yarn is wound. (ii) a pack-
age of yarn wound into a con-
venient shape.
• continuous yam felting
a process were
h by slivers, rov-
ing, slubbings, or yarns are
felted on a continuous basis.
This is achieved by passing
wool-rich material through a
unit where it is agitated an aque-
ous medium where felting takes
place. The process is used to
produce a yarn, or consolidate
a spun yarn.
• continuous-filament yarn
a y~.n composed of one or
more ftlaments that run essen-
tially the whole length of the
yarn. Yarns of one or more ftla-
ments are usually referred to as
monoftlament or multiftlament
respectively.
• conventional allowance
the percentage that, in the cal-
II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
cune I conJ1erSion (tow) II
I culation of commercial weight
I and yarn count or linear density,
is added to the oven-dry weight
of the textile material, which
I has been previously washed free
of ftnish. For such material, the
conventional allowance is arbi-
I trarilychosen according to com-
I mercial practice, and includes
the moisture regain and the
normal fInish that is added to
I impart satisfactory textile quali-
I ties.
I • conversion (tow)
the production, from a fila-
ment tow or tows, of a staple
I
sliver in such a way that the
I
essential parallel arrangement
of the filaments is maintained.
I
The two methods of convert-
I
ing most commonly employed
are: (a) crush cutting, in which
the filaments of the tow are
I
severed by crushing between
an anvil roller and a cutting
roller with raised 'blades' he-
I
lically disposed around its sur-
I
face, and, (b) stretch break-
I
ing' in which the filaments of
the tow are broken by pro-
I
gressive stretch between suc-
I cessive sets of rollers, if sub-
sequently a top is required,

II converter I copolymer
further processes of re-break-
ing and/or gilling may be nec-
essary and the whole opera-
tion is then often referred to
as tow-to-top converting or
conversion.
• converter
a person or a company which
buys grey goods and sells them
as ftnished fabrics. A convener
organizes and manages the pro-
cess of ftnishing the fabric to
buyers' speciftcations, particu-
larly the bleaching, dyeing,
printing, etc.
• cool
a smooth, slick, hand generally I
associated with synthetics.
• cool colours
blue, violet and green are cool / ~
light colours. They are reduc- ;
ing in nature, as seen by the eye :
they move away from the ob- ~
ject thereby increasing its size. I
Cool colours have a calm and ~
restful effect.
• cooling cylinder
an open cylinder, or alterna-
tively a closed cylinder ftlled
with cold water, over which hot
fabric is passed to accelerate
Th:Jctile=======1I
textilestudycenter.com
53
*================
:I cooling.
~ • coolmax brand
~ a Du Pont brand of polyester
; with good wicking qualities al-
: lowing for better moisture
I .
: evaporatIon.
I
: .cop
~ a self-supporting package of
I yarn which does not have a core
~ through its centre.
~ • cop winding machine
: a machine which winds yarn
~ into small, headless, coreless,
~ cigar-shaped packages (cops) .
~ • copolymer
a polymer in which the repeat-
~ ing units are not all the same.
: Usually, but not always, copoly-
mers are formed from two or
more different starting materi-
also For example, chloroethene
(vinyl chloride) and 1,1-
dichloroethene (vinylidene
chloride) form a copolymer that
: contains the repeating units: -
~ ch2-chcl- and -ch2-cc12-, the dif-
; ferent classes of copolymer in-
: elude random copolymers, al-
I .
: ternatmg copolymers, block
~ copolymers, and graft copoly-
; mers.
54 cord I core sampli"D II
================*
• cord I • corduroy
a term applied loosely to a va- I 1. a fabric, usually made of cot-
riety of textile strands includ- ton, utilizing a cut-pile weave
ing (a) cabled yarns (b) plied construction. Extra sets of fill-
yarns and (c) in structures ing yarns are woven into the
made by plaiting, braiding or I fabric to form ridges of yarn on
knitting. the surface. The ridges are built
so that clear lines can be seen
• corded
I when the pile is cut.
1. a fabric with a surface rib ef-
2. a strong, durable, woven
I
fect resulting from the use of a
fabric characterised by verti-
heavier or plied yarn together I
cal cut pile stripes or cords
with finer yarns.
I with a velvet- like nap. The
2. a yarn made from two or I number of wales or cords to
more finer yarns twisted to- the inch classifies corduroy. It
gether. is traditionally of cotton but
• cordoban leather I may be cotton blends or other

goat skin, simply-tanned. The I fibres as well. It is common

art of preparing this leather in men's women's and
came from cordoba where the I children's apparel especially
craftsmen who were allowed to I trousers.
use it for shoes in the middle I • core sampling
ages were called cordwainers. . ~ a method of taking representa-
• cordon yarn tive samples from bales or
a two-ply union yarn made packs of textile fibres obtained
from a single cotton yarn and a I by inserting a coring tube
single worsted or woollen yarn. I driven by hand or machine into
each package.
• cordura brand I 1. core samples can be used for

a Du Pont brand of air textured I the determination of yield or

nylon yarn used in luggage and fineness, but not fibre length.
outerwear. 2. the term mini-core sampling

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 textilestudycenter.com

II c~spun yam I cottun 55

.================~
is applied to small-scale sam- ~ duced to give strength and elas-
piing. ; ticity to the fabric.
- core-spun yarn ~ 3. a spun yarn from either natu-
: ral or man-made fibres incor-
yarn consisting of a central I
. porating an electrometric core,
thread surrounded by staple fi- ; these yarns are normally used
bres. The yarn has the strength : in stretch fabrics.
and elongation of the central I
thread whilst exhibiting most of ~ - cornet
the other characteristics of the : the cornet headdress is a sim-
surface staple fibres. Consist of ~ plified frontage. The cap has an
a filament base yarn, with an ; upstanding frill in front and lap-
exterior wrapping of loose fi- : pets at the back. The veil is
bre, which has not been twisted ~ wired to stand up above the
into a yarn. Polyester filament ~ forehead. A topknot of wired
is often wrapped with a cotton ; ribbon is pinned at the front of
outer layer in order to provide : the cap, fourth quarter of 17th
the strength and resiliency of ~ century.
polyester, along with the mois- I • • • h
ture-absorbent aesthetics and : - correct mVOlce welg t
dye affmity of cotton. Sewing ~ the weight of material calcu-
thread as well as household and I lated from the oven-dry weight
apparel fabrics is made from ~ and the recommended allow-
these yarns. : ance.
1. a sewing thread consisting of ~ _ cortex
a central synthetic continuous- ~ the inner portion of most ani-
filament yarn surrounded by I mal hair fibres. It consists of
cotton fibres. ~ spindle-shaped cells.
2. worsted yarn with bulked-
nylon core, e.g, typically 1/24s ; - cotton
worsted count (37 tex) with ~ 1. a unicellular, natural fibre
approximately 33% of nylon. : that grows in the seed pod of
These yarns are normally pro- ~ the cotton plant. Fibres are

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
56 cotton dust I cott:o.like II
~=======. !

typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches I that may contain a mixture of

long. The longest staple fi - I substances, including smaller
bres, longer than 1 1/2 inch, particles of ground-up plant
including the Pima and Egyp- matter, fibre, bacteria, fungi,
tian varieties, produce the I soil, pesticides, non-cotton plant
highest quality cotton fabrics. matter and other contaminants
2. it is one of the world's major which may have accumulated
te>..we fibres. It is obtained from I during the growing, harvesting
bushy plants. There are four main I and subsequent processing or
types of cotton: American up- storage periods.
land, Egyptian, sea island and _ cotton waste
Asiatic. The flowers from which I
there are two classes of waste
these different types of cottOn are I
known as 'hard' and 'soft', and
obtained vary in colour and tex- I
their treatment differs accord-
ture, thus providing each type of :
ing to the class. Hard waste is
cotton with varying characteris- I
essentially that from spinning
tics. Cotton, in general, is very
I frames, reeling and winding
elastic. It can withstand high tem-
I machines and all other waste of
peratures, has high wash ability
a thread nature. Soft waste
and is very susceptible to dyes.
comes from earlier processes
I where the fibres are relatively
little twisted, felted, or com-
pacted.
- cotton wool
a web or batt of fibres used for
I medical or cosmetic purposes
I which is made from cotton and/
or Viscose rayon.
- cotton -like
- cotton dust refers to a fabric that feels like
dust present during the han- I cotton.
dling or processing of cotton I

11======Thxtile

II cotton-spun I cOPerfoetor (woven .ram;~",==========5=7
• cotton-spun
a term applied to staple yarn
produced on machinery origi-
nally developed for processing
cotton into yarn.
• count
1. the number of picks and
warp ends per inch in cloth.
2. a number assigned to yarn to
describe its fIneness. The num-
ber is based upon number of
hanks per pound of yarn.
3. methods of variously express-
ing the specifIc length or length
per unit mass of a yarn. Also
termed linear density, number
of yarn, yarn count, yarn num-
ber, grist.
• counting glass
a small mounted magnifying
glass for examining fabric. The
base of the mount generally
contains a unit of measurement
having an aperture one
centimetre square, one inch
square or cross-shaped with
various dimensions, convenient
for counting ends and picks, or
courses and wales in a fabric.
• couple ; a number that indicates the ex-
to combine a suitable organic ~ tent to which the area of a fab-
7 e x t i l e = = = = = = II
textilestudycenter.com
~ component, usually a phenol or
; an arylamine, with a diawnium
: salt to form an azo compound
~ as in the manufacture of azo
~ colourants, in azoic dyeing or in
; after treatment of direct dyeing.
; • course length (weft-
knitted)
I
: the length of yarn in a knitted
~ course.
~ • course, knitted (fabric)
~ a row of loops across the width
; of a fabric.
; • couvrechef
~ a veil or covering for the head.
; • cover
~ 1. the degree of evenness and
: closeness of thread spacing.
~ Good cover gives the effect of
; a plane surface and cannot be
: obtained with hard-twisted
I
: yarns.
~ 2. the degree to which, in fab-
; ric fInishing, the underlying
: structure is concealed by the fm-
~ ishing materials or treatments.
~ • cover factor (woven
. fabrics)
58 covered yarn I cnuh /I
================*
ric is covered by one set of ~ 2. a process of bringing a lus-
threads. By introducing suit- I trous weft to cover the surface
able numerical constants, its : of a fabric, e.g, a cotton-warp/
evaluation can be made in ac- ~ mohair-weft fabric.
cordance with any system of ~ • covert
counting. For any fabric there .
are two cover factors: warp 1. a medium to heavy twill fab-
cover factor and weft cover I ric with a contrast in colour be-
factor. tween the twill line and the
ground. Usually has a mottled
• covered yam I or flecked appearance caused by

a yarn made by feeding one I using a warp yarn with 2 or

yarn under a controlled degree more colours twisted together.
of tension through the axis or The filling generally is of a
axes of one or more revolving I single colour.
spindles carrying the other I 2. made with two shades of
(wrapping) yarn(s). colour e.g. (medium and light
• coverstock brown). The warp is 2 ply (1
I light, 1 dark) and filling 1 ply
a permeable fabric used in hy-
(dark or same as warp). Has a
giene products to cover and con- I
mottled or speckled effect. First
tain an absorbent medium,
I used as a hunting fabric. Has a
crabbing,
I clear finish and hard texture.
1. a process used in the worsted Wears exceptionally well and
trade to set fabric in a smooth I has a sman appearance. Over
flat state so that it will not I coating for both men and
cockle, pucker, or wrinkle dur- women. It is also made water-
ing subsequent wet processing. proof and used a great deal in
The fabric is treated in open I rainwater.
width and warp-way tension in
a hot or boiling aqueous me- I • crash
dium, the tension being main- I 1. a coarse woven fabric with a
tained while the fabric is cool- I rough surface, made with thick
mg. uneven yarns. Used for table lin-

II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e

II cravat I creel
ens, draperies, and backings.
2. it is very rugged and substan-
tial in feel. Come in white or
natural shades or could be dyed,
printed, striped, or checked.
The yarn is strong, irregular in
diameter but smooth. Has a
fairly good texture. For ex-
ample, towelling, suiting,
dresses, and coats.
- cravat
wide cloth or piece of lace knot-
ted or tied around the neck. The
term was first used in the mid-
17th century.
- cravat string
ribbon used in the 17th century
to tie a heavy lace cravat in
place, the forerunner of the 18th
century solitaire.
- crease-recovery
the measure of crease-resis-
tance specified quantitatively in
terms of crease-recovery angle.
- crease-resist finish
a finishing process, usually for
cellulose-fibre fabrics or their
blends, that improves the
crease recovery and smooth-
drying properties. In the pro-
cess used most extensively, the
Textile========11
textilestudycenter.com
59
*================
~ fabric is impregnated with a
; solution of a reagent that pen-
~ etrates the fibres, and, after dry-
: ing and curing cross-links the
~ fibre strUcture under the influ-
; ence of a catalyst and heat. The
: crease resistant effect is durable
I
. to wash and wear.
~ _ crease-resistance
~ a term used to indicate resis-
; tance to, and/or recovery from,
: creasing of a textile material
I
: durmg
. use.
:I _ creel
~ a structure for holding supply
~ packages in textile processing,
; crimp,
: 1. the waviness of a fibre. This
~ fibre characteristic may be ex-
I pressed numerically as the
~ crimp frequency or as the dif-
: ference between the lengths of
~ the straightened and crimped
; fibre, expressed as a percentage
: of the straightened length.
I
: 2. the waviness or distortion of
~ a yarn that is due to interlacing
; in the fabric. in woven fabrics,
: the crimp is measured by the
~ relation between the length of
~ the fabric sample and the cor-
; responding length of yarn when
",6",,0========== * crepe I crepe-back satin II
it is removed there from and I are softer than worsted. If it is
straightened under suitable ten- I fme, it drapes well. Have very
sion, crimp may be expressed good wearing qualities. Has a
numerically as (a) percentage ~ very slimming effect depending
crimp, which is 100 divided by ~ on weight, it is used for dresses
the fabric length and multiplied i of all types, including long din-
by the difference between the ner dresses, suits, and coats.
yarn length and the fabric I
• crepe de chine
Iengt h , and (b) crimp ratio,
which is the ratio of yarn length silk warp and crepe twist silk
to fabric length. in both meth- I filling 25 x 22. More ends than
ods, the fabric length is the ba- I picks per inch. Has a soft hand
sis, that is to say, 100 for per- and considerable lustre. Made
centage crimp and 1 for crimp of raw silk or rayon. It is easy
ratio. This definition could logi- I to manipulate and handle. Very
cally be applied to knitted fab- I long wearing. Most of it laun-
rics or fabrics of pile conStrliC- ders well. It is fairly sheer.
tion, but it is preferable to em- Could be piece dyed or printed.
ploy special terms, e.g, 'stitch I Has a slight rippled texture.
length', or 'terry ratio'. Heavy crepe de chine is called
'canton crepe' which is slightly
• crepe I ribbed and now mostly made in

1. a fabric characterised by an I rayon.

all over crinkled, pebbly, or
1_ I • crepe-back satin
puc1\.ered surface. The appear-
ance may be a result of the use I a satin fabric in which highly
of high twist yarns, embossing, twisted yarns are used in the
chemical treatment or a crepe I filling direction. The floating
weave. I yarns are made with low twist

2. It has a crinkled, puckered I and may be of either high or

surface or soft mossy finish. low lustre. If the crepe effect
Comes in different weights and I is the right side of the fabric,
degrees of sheerness. Dull with I the fabric is called satin-back
a harsh dry feel. Woollen crepes crepe.

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 textilestudycenter.com

II crepey I crimp frequency 61

*================
.. crepey ~ tonne often has very bright
refers to a fabric with a pebble colours and patterns. The fab-
;
like texrure. : ric has no lustre (when glazed,
~ it is called chintz). Some are
- crepon ~ warp printed and if they are,
crepe effect appears in direc- ; they are usually completely re-
tion of the warp and achieved : versible. Designs run from the
by alternate s and z, or slack, ~ conservative to very wild and
tension, or different degrees I often completely cover the sur-
of twist. Originally a wool ~ face. For example bedspreads,
crepe but now made of silk : chairs, draperies, pillows, slip-
and rayon. It is much stouter ~ covers, coverings of all kinds,
and more rugged than the av- ; beach wear, and sponswear.
erage crepe. Has a wavy tex-
; -crewel
rure with the 'waves' running
in a lengthwise direction. ; a type of embroidery using a
Mostly used for prints, dresses :I loosely twisted 2 ply worsted
and ensembles. : yarn.
-cretonne ~ - crimp contraction
1. a plain weave fabric, usually ~ the contraction in length of a

cotton, with a neutral ground ; previously texrured yarn from

and brightly colour floral de-
signs, siniilar to chintz but with
a dull finish and sometimes
heavier. Used for draperies and
upholstery.
2. fInished in widths from 30 to
50 inches. Quality and price
vary a great deal. The warp
counts are fmer than the fIlling
counts, which are spun rather
loose. Strong substantial and
gives good wear. Printed cre-
: the fully extended state (i.e,
I
: where the filaments are sub-
~ stantially straightened), owing
; to the formation of crimp in
: individual ftlament under speci-
~ fIed conditions of crimp devel-
; opment. It is expressed as a
: percentage of the ext... lded
~ length. .
I • fr
: - cnmp equency
I
: the number of full waves or

Te:aile======== II
62
=================*
crimps in a length of fibre di-
vided by the straightened
length.
• crimp stability
the ability of a textured yarn to
resist the reduction of its crimp
by mechanical and/or thermal I
stress. Crimp stability is nor- I
mally expressed as the ratio of :
. .
values of cnmp retractlon mea-
d afi
crimp stIIbility ! crimped yam II
I a process of three separate
I stages (now obsolescent) or as
a continuous process (false-
twist texturing). In an infre-
I quently used alternative
method, two yarns are continu-
ously folded together, heat-set,
then separated by unfolding,
2. the yarn is injected into a
I heated sruffer box either by feed
11 thr h I o.
ro ers or oug a p aStlClsmg
0

e. 0 :

sure d belore an ter a specl- I 0 fh fl·d (0 0 bi 0

fied mechanical and/or thermal : Jet 0 ot ~ mvarla y air or 0

I steam). The Jet process IS some-

treatment 0 f the yarn. kn . .
; tlmes own as Jet texturmg,
0 0

• crimped length : hot-air jet texturing, or steam-

the distance between the ends ~ jet texturing,
of a fibre when substantially ; 3. the yarn is plasticised by pas-
freed from external restraint, sage through a jet of hot fluid
measured with respect to its and is impacted on to a cooling
general axis of orientation. I surface (impact texturing),

• crimped yarn I 4. the heated yarn is passed over

a knife-edge (edge crimping),
a continuous-filament yarn that I (now obsolete),
has been processed to introduce
I 5. the heated yarn is passed be-
durable crimps, coils, loops or
I tween a pair of gear wheels or
other fme distortions along the
through some similar device
lengths of the filaments. The I
(gear crimping),
main texturing procedures,
which are usually applied to con- I 6. the yarn is knitted into a fab-
tinuous-filament yarns made I ric that is heat-set and then
from: unravelled (knit-deknit textur-
ing),
1. the yarn is highly twisted,
heat-set and untwisted either as I 7. the yarn is over-fed through

II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
 textilestudycenter.com

63
*~~~~~~~~

a turbulent air stream (air-tex- ~ - crock meter

turing, air-jet texturing), so that ~ an apparatl,lS for evaluating the
entangled loops are formed in ; colour fastness to rubbing of
the fIlaments, : dyed or printed textiles.
8. the yarn is composed of bi- I
: - crocking
component fIbres and is sub- I
jected to a hot and/or wet pro- :
the rubbing-off of dye from a
cess whereby differential ~
fabric. Crocking can be the re-
shrinkage occurs. ;
sult of lack of penetration of the
:
dyeing agent, the use of incor-
- crinkled ~ rect dyes or dyeing procedures,
an Wleven, wrinkle, or puck- ~ or the lack of proper washing
ered effect on the fabric surface ; prqcedures and fInishing treat-
which can be created by a vari- : ments after the dyeing process.
ety of mechanical or chemical I
. : - cross cut
fIrushes, or through the use of I .
high twist yarns. : refers to a corduroy fabnc
~ which has the pile cut in a weft
- crinoline ; wise direction, forming squares
a lightweight, plain weave, stiff- : or rectangles on the surface.
ened fabric with a low yarn I
: - cross dyed
count (few yarns to the inch in I
each direction). : a method of colouring fabric
~ made with strategically placed
- crisp I yarns of 2 or more different fI-
describes fa brics with a ~ bres. A pre-planned effect be-
smooth, clean surface, good : comes visible by dyeing the fab-
body, and a relatively fIrm hand ~ ric in different dye baths, one
which may make noise when ; for each of the types of yarn. For
rustled. : example a predominately rayon
- crochet lace ~ fabric may have a polyester
I yarn woven into it in a stripe
lace handmade with a crochet
~ pattern then dyed in a bath to
hook usually medallion pat-
: which only the rayon is sensi-
terns on a mesh ground. I

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
64
tive. The polyester stripe will be
made to appear since it remains
undyed. The stripe may then be
coloured by dyeing it again in a
bath of a different colour to
which only the polyester is sen-
sitive. Heather effects may be
achieved by mixing more than
one fibre in a single yarn then
cross dyeing.
• cross dyed & overprinted
a cross dyed fabric which has
also had a design printed on it.
• cross dyeing
the dyeing of one component of ~
a mixture of fibres of which at ; ered by crushing between an
least one is already coloured.
• cross lapping
;SS dyed & overprinted I crystallinity II
~ e.g, in a fibre or in a pigment
; binder this generally restricts
: swelling and alters elastic recov-
~ ery.
I • d k
~ cross-woun pa~ age
: a package ~haractensed by the
~ l:u-ge cro~smg angle of the he-
i lixes of sliver or yarn.
• crumbs
a term used to describe shred-
ded alkali-cellulose.
• crush cutting
a process in converting in which
the filaments of the two are sev-
anvil roller and a cutting roller
I with raised 'blades' helically dis-
I posed around its surface.

the production of a non woven I • crushed

web or batt from a fibre web
by traversing it to and fro across I a finish that creates a planned
a lattice moving at right angles irregular disturbance on the
to the direction of traverse. surface of the fabric, usually by
I mechanical means.
• crossbred
I • crystallinity
a term applied loosely to wool,
tops, yarns or fabrics produced I three-dimensional order in the
from wools of medium quality. I arrangement of atoms and mol-
ecules within a chemical phase.
• cross-linking ~ Most chemical compounds of
the creation of chemical bonds . low molecular weight may be
between polymer molecules obtained in a state of virtually

II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
 textilestudycenter.com

II cupra (fibre) I cut velvet 65

*=======
complete three-dimensional ~ tion. Bamberg rayon is a type
order. When polymers crystal- ; of cuprammonium rayon.
lize, in general the product con- ; • cuprammonium rayon
sists of regions of high order
(crystallites), regions of low ~ a term used to describe fibres
order (amorphous regions), : of regenerated cellulose ob-
and regions of intermediate or- ~ tained by the cuprammonium
~ process.
der. Different methods of mea-
suring the degree of crystallin- I • curing
ity (e.g, density, wide-angle x- ~ a process following addition of
ray scattering, enthalpy mea- : a finish to textile fabrics in
surement) emphasise different ~ which appropriate conditions
as pects and therefore lead to I are used to effect a chemical
quantitatively different values. ~ reaction. Heat treatment for
In recent years the simple con- : several minutes has been stan-
cept of crystalline and amor- ~ dard, but higher temperatures
phous regions has been ques- ; for short times (flash-curing)
tioned and terms such as para- : and long times at low tempera-
crystalline have been intro- ~ tures and higher regain (moist
duced .
• cupra (fibre) I.
~ curing) are also used.
cut
the term used originally, and still ; a length of warp required to
in the USA, to describe fibres : weave a piece of cloth. Also re-
of regenerated cellulose .ob- ~ fers to the length of a piece of
tained by the cuprammoruum ~ woven cloth.
process.
~ • cut velvet
• cuprammonium
~ jacquard fabric consisting of a
a process of producing a type ; velvet design on a plain ground.
of regenerated rayon fibre. In : Also called beaded velvet. Used
this process, the wood pulp or ~ in eveningwear and home fur-
cotton liners are dissolved in an ~ nishings.
ammoniac copper oxide solu-

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = II
66 cuticle I dead cotton II
~~~~~~~~=*
• cuticle I usually around 200.
the surface layer of animal hair I 2. double damask has an 8 shaft
fibres, consisting of flat over- satin construction with usually
lapping scales. twice as many filling yarns as
I warp yarns. This gives a much
• Dacron
I greater distincmess to the pat-
Du Pont brand of polyester fi- tern. Thread count ranges from
bre. 165 to 400.The quality of both
• damask I depends on the yarn used and
the thread count. If the same
a glossy jacquard fabric, usually ~
quality and thread count are
made from linen, cotton, rayon, ;
used, single is better than
silk, or blends. The patterns are I double because the shorter
flat and reversible. The fabric
floats are more serviceable and
is often used in napkins, table- I
the yarns hold more firmly.
cloths, draperies, and uphol-
I Double damask with less than
stery. Originally made of silk,
180 thread count is no good for
that came to us from China via I
home use.
Damascus. In the XIII Century, I
Marco Polo gave an interesting • deacetylated acetate
tale about it. It is one of the old- a term used to describe fibres
est and most popular cloths to I of regenerated cellulose ob-
be found today. Very elaborate I tained by almost complete de-
designs are possible. Cloth is ethanoylation (deacetylation) of
beetled, calendared and the bet- I a cellulose ethanoate (acetate).
ter qualities are gross-bleached. I
The firmer the texture, the bet- : • dead cotton
ter the quality. Launders well ~ an extreme form of immature
and holds a high lustre, particu- I cotton with a very thin fibre
larly in linen. Price range varies ~ wall. Commonly the cause is
a great deal. There are two excessively slow secondary
types of damask tablecloths: I growth, resulting in many of

1. single damask tablecloths: I the fibres having developed

construction. Thread count is only a thin secondary wall by the

II ===========Textile

II dead wool I deep dyeing
time the boll opens. It is some-
times caused by premature
'death' or cessation of growth
due to factors such as local pest
attack, incidence of some types
of disease, or curtailment of the
life of the plant itself, resulting
in the death of the fibres before
the full potential secondary-wall
thickening has been reached.
Particularly for such fibres there
may be no secondary thicken-
ing at all. The fibres are weak,
brittle and lacking in twist or
convolutions, become easily
entangled into neps, and are
generally lacking in lustre, with
a 'dead' appearance, although
some fibres without any second-
ary thickening tend to stick to-
gether and show up as small
bundles in ginned raw cotton.
• dead wool
wool taken from sheep that
have died from natural causes.
• de-aeration
the removal of all undissolved
gases and part of the dissolved
gases (chiefly air) from solu-
tions prior to extrusion.
• deburring
a process in wool yarn manu-
T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = /I
textilestudycenter.com
67
*================
~ facturing for extracting burrs,
; seeds and vegetable matter
: from wool. A burring machine
~ carries out de burring mechani-
~ cally.
I. deco
I refers to designs which suggest
~ the art deco style of the 20's and
: 30's, characterised by bold out-
~ lines and streamlined shapes.
~ • decrystallised cotton
~ cotton treated with reagents
; such as zinc chloride, concen-
: trated caustic soda solutions or
~ amines to reduce the degree of
~ crystallisation.
~ • deep dyeing
; descriptive of fibres modified so
: as to have greater uptake of se-
I
: lected dyes than normal fibres,
~ when the two are dyed together,
; 1. the removal of grease, suit,
: and extraneous matter from
I
: wool by an aqueous or solvent
~ process,
; 2. the removal of natural fats,
: waxes, grease, oil, and dirt from
~ any textile material by extrac-
~ tion with an organic solvent,
; degree of orientation, the ex-
: tent to which the macromol-
I
68
=================*
ecules composing a fibre or film
lie in a predominant direction
in the case of fibres the pre-
dominant direction is usually the
fibre axis. There are several
methods for assessment of the
degree of orientation, of which
measurement of birefringence
is the most usual. The degrees
of orientation of crystalline and
non-crystalline regions may be
evaluated separately.
• degree of polymerisation
the average number of repeat-
ing units in the individual mac-
romolecules in a polymer. In
general, this average will de-
pend on the basis on which it is
calculated, which should state.
For example, it may be based
upon a mass (weight) or a num-
ber average.
• degwnmed silk
by boiling the silk in hot water,
the gum is removed from the
yarn/fabric. By doing this, the
lustre of the silk is enhanced. It
is very lightweight.
• degumming
the removal of sericin ( silk
gum) from silk yarns or fabrics,
or from silk waste prior to spin-
II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
degree ofpolymerisatWn I denier II
I ning, by a controlled, hot,
I mildly alkaline treatment in-
tended to have little effect on
the underlying fibroin.
I • delicate
referring to a fme, light hand
I with good drape.
I • delustrant
I a particulate material added
before extrusion to subdue the
lustre of a man-made fibre.
I 1. the anatase form of titanium
I dioxide is commonly used for
this purpose.
2. terms used to indicate the
I level of delustrant in man-made
I fibres include clear, bright,
semi-dull, semi-matt, dull,
matt, extra dull, and super dull.
I • denier
I
: 1. a system of measuring the
I weight of a continuous filament
: fibre. In the united states, this
measurement is used to num-
I ber all manufactured fibres
I (both ftlament and staple), and
I silk, but excluding glass fibre.
: The lower the number, the fmer
I the fibre, the higher the num-
ber, the heavier the fibre. Nu-
merically, a denier is the equiva-
I

II denim I depth
lent to the weight in grams of
9,000 meters of continuous ftla-
ment fibre.
2. the weight in grams of 9000
metres of a ftlament or yarn etc.
the denier system was common
as the standard for all continu-
ous-ftlament yarns. Yarns spun
from man-made staple fibre
were usually designated by the
count system appropriate to the
method of spinning, although
denier denoted the fmeness of
individual fibres composing the
spun yam. The recommended
system is the tex system with
the unit of decitex for filament
yarns .
• denim
1. true denim is a twill weave
cotton-like fabric made with
different colour yarns in the
warp and the weft. Due to the
twill construction, one colour
predominates on the fabric sur-
face.
2. name derived from French
'serge de nimes'. Originally had
dark blue, brown or dark grey
warp with a white or grey filling
giving a mottled look and used
only for work clothes. Now wo-
ven in bright and pastel colours
Texrile========
textilestudycenter.com
69
*=================
~ with stripes as well as plain.
; Longwearing, it resists snags and
: tears. Comes in heavy and lighter
~ weights. For example work
~ clothes, overalls, caps, uniforms,
; bedspreads, slipcovers, draperies,
: upholstery, sportswear, of all
~ kinds, dresses and has even been
; used for evening wear.
~
;
I
I • dent
, the space between two wires in
: a comb or reed through which
I
: a warp strand passes.
~ • depitching
~ the removal of tar or other
I branding substances from wool,
.
·, usually, though not necessarily,
: by solvent-extraction.
,
: • depth
~ that colour quality an increase
,
II
70 dmgndmft I diMmize II
in which is associated with an ~ • developing
increase in the quantity of ~ a step in a dyeing or printing
colourant present, all other c~n- ; process in which an intermedi-
ditions (viewing, etc.) remam- : ate form of the colourant is con-
ing the same. ~ verted to the fmal form (e.g.
• design draft ; oxidation of a Vat Leuco Ester).
a diagram showing the pattern ~ • dhila
that is to be woven into a cloth ; loose or baggy, a wide and
and also the basic weave (plain, : roomy all over.
twill, or satin) of the cloth to ~ dh .
. • ott
be produced. I
: the traditional Indian dress for
• design paper ~ the lower part of the body, con-
cross-section paper on which I sisting of a piece of unstitched
design drafts are made. cloth draped over the hips and
I . .
• desizing : legs. Worn in varIOUS ways m
~ different parts of the country,
the removal of size from fab-
; alike by men and women.
ric.
; • diacetate (fibre)
• detergent . .
. ; a term used to descnbe fibres
a substanc~ normally. havmg : made from propanone-soluble
surface-~ct1ve propertIes spe- ~ (acetone-soluble) cellulose
cifically mtended to cleanse a ; ethanoate (acetate). The ISO
substrate. ~ generic name is acetate.
• detwisted : • diamond
descriptive of a yarn of fibres I referring to designs dominated
or filaments from which twist I
by diamond shapes.
has been removed.
• diazotize
• devantiere I . .
, .. . to convert a pnmary aromatic
17th centu~y w°thmen skndmg ; amine into the corresponding
costume split at e bac .

11========Thmle

II die swell I direct dye
diazonium salt, by treatment ~
with nitric acid.
- die swell
the increase in diameter that ~
occurs as a visco-elastic melt or ;
solution emerges from a die or :
spinneret hole.
- differential dyeing
usually descriptive of fibres of
the same generic class, but hav-
ing potentially different dyeing
properties from the standard
fibre.
- diffusion
movement of substance owing
to the existence of a concentra- ~
tion gradient.
- dimity
1. a lightweight, sheer, plain
weave fabric characterised by
lengthwise ribs. Sometimes
also with crosswise ribs form-
ing a check. Commonly used
for curtains, aprons.
2. a thin sheer with corded
spaced stripes that could be
single, double or triple group-
ing. Made of combed yarn and
is 36' wide. Has a crisp texture
which remains fairly well after
washing. Resembles lawn in the
Thmle=======11
textilestudycenter.com
71
*===============
white state. It is easy to sew and
; manipulate and launders well.
: May be bleached, dyed, or
d and often printed with
:I .
prmte
a small rosebud design. It is
mercerised and has a soft lus-
tre. Children's dresses, women's
~ dresses, and blouses, infant's
.I wear, collar and cuff sets ' bas-
; sinets, bedspreads, curtains,
: underwear. Has a very young
~ look.
~ _ dip
~ an immersion of relatively
; short duration of a textile in liq-
: uid, the depth of liquid in the
inner cylinder of a rotary wash-
I ing machine, a laboratory dye-
~ ing, usually to develop a dye
: formula.
:I - direct dye
I ..
: an amomc dye having
~ substantivity for cellulosic fi-
; bres, normally applied from an
: aqueous dye bath containing an
~ electrolyte, direct spinning,
~ 1. integrated polymerisation
; and fibre extrusion without in-
: tervening isolation or storage of
~ the polymer,
~ 2. the method whereby tow is
; converted to staple fibre and
72 direct style I dispersion spinning II
=========*
spun into yarn in an integrated I on a substrate to leave a white
operation, or differently coloured design.
3. a method of dry-spinning I • discharge printed
baste fibres whereby untwisted
slivers are drafted with suitable I a dyed fabric is printed with a
chemical paste that bleaches out
controls and directly twisted I
or 'discharges' the colour to al-
into yarn. Gill spinning and slip-
I low white patterns on a dyed
draft spinning systems are par-
ground. By adding a dye to the
ticular forms of the method.
paste that is not affected by the
• direct style I chemical it is possible to replace
a style of printing in one or sev- I the discharged ground colour
eral colours where the dyes are with another colour.
applied and then fixed by age- • disperse dye
ing or other appropriate means. '
a substantially water-insoluble
The fabric is usually initially,
dye having substantively for one
white but may sometimes have
or more hydrophobic fibres,
I
previously dyed.
e.g, cellulose acetate, and usu-
• direct warping ally applied from fme aqueous
the transference of yarn from a , dispersion.
package creel directly on to a I • dispersion spinning
beam.
I a process in which the polymers

• direct-spun that tend to an infusible, in-

1. a term used to describe fila- soluble, and generally intrac-
ments or yarn produced by di- ' table character (e.g,
rect spinning, ' polytetrafluoroethylene) are
2. descriptive of woollen yarns , dispersed as fme particles in a
spun on a mule onto weft bob- carrier such as sodium alginate
bins. ' or sodium xanthate solutions
that permit extrusion into fi-
• discharge (printing) bres, after which the dispersed
to destroy by chemical means a ' polymer is caused to coalesce
dye or mordant already present I by a heating process, the carrier

11======Thxtile
 textilestudycenter.com

II dissol'Ping pulp I doeskin 73

*================
being removed either by a heat- ~ ven into the fabric structure.
ing or by a dissolving process. ; Dobbies may be of any weight
: or compactness, with yarns
- dissolving pulp
~ ranging from very fine to
a specially purified form of cel- ~ coarse and fluffy. Standard
I
lulose made from wood tissue. ; dobby fabrics are usually flat
- distressed : and relatively fine or sheer.
describes a finish that disturbs ~ However, some heavyweight
the surface of the fabric, giving ; dobby fabrics are available for
it a used, beaten, or uneven ap- ~ home furnishings and for heavy
pearance. Often done through :I apparel.
sand or stone washing after the : - doeskin
fabric has been pigment dyed. ~ 1. generally applied to a type of
_ district check I fabric finish in which a low nap

a category of small check de- ; is brushed in one direction to

signs, sometimes with contrast- ~ create a .soft suede-like hand?n
ing over plaids, originally of : the fab~l~ surface. End-uses m-
Scottish origin. Glen plaids are I elude billiard table surfaces and
part of this category. ~ mens' sportswear.
: 2. very smooth, lustrous sur-
- dobby ~ face made with a slight short
1. a fabric with small, repeat- ; nap very close and compact
ing geometric patterns woven : weave to look like fme leather.
into the surface. ~ Weave not visible because of
2. an attachment to a 100m ~ napping. Very high quality wool
which controls the harness al- ; used. Needs care in handling.
lowing the weaving of these : Women's suits and coats, and
geometric patterns. ~ also in a lighter weight for
_ dobby weave I dresses, sportswear and riding
~ habits for both men and
a decorative weave, : women, trousers and waistcoats
characterised by small figures, ~ for men.
usually geometric, that are wo-

1ktile======11
74
=========*
• doff
to remove a filled package or
beam from a textile machine.
Frequently the operation in-
cludes replacing the full pack-
age or beam with an empty one.
• doffing comb
an oscillating, notched steel bar,
set adjacent to the doffmg cyl-
inder of a carding machine,
which strips the cotton from the
doffing cylinder in a light film
or sheet.
• doffing cylinder
a wire-tooth-covered drum on
a carding machine that strips
the cotton in a light film from
the carding drum and which is
stripped in turn by the doffmg
comb.
• doffing tube (rotor spin-
ning)
an extension to the navel to
guide the withdrawn yarn from
the rotor.
• dolly
I. a machine in which fabric I
pieces sewn end to end are cir- ~ • Donegal
culated repeatedly through a li-
quor by means of a single pair I I. a plain-weave fabric woven
of squeeze rollers above the li- ~ from woollen-spun yarns
II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
doff I Doneglll II
quor.
I 2. a machine in which lace, ho-
siery, or knitwears are subjected
to the action of free-falling beat-
I ers while immersed in a deter-
I gent solution and carried in a
moving rectangular or cylindri-
cal box,
I 3. an open-width washer, con-
I taining 3-5 compartments,
originally used for dunging
I
aged cotton prints, and now
I also used for any open-width
washing where a shorter ma-
chine than an open soaper is
I desired.
I • domett flannel
I soft filling yarns of medium or
I light weight are used to obtain
the nap. The term domett is
interchangeable with 'outing
I flannel' but it is only made in a
plain weave. Both are soft and
fleecy and won't irritate the
I skin. Any sizing or starching
I must be removed before using.
Outing flannel is also piece-
dyed and some printed and pro-
duced in spun rayon also.

II Donegal tweed I dot
characterised by a random dis-
tribution of brightly coloured
flecks or slubs. It was originally
produced as a coarse woollen
suiting in county Donegal.
2. originally a homespun woven
by the peasants in Donegal, Ire-
land. A rough and ready fabric
that stands much hard wears.
Yarns are coarse with thick
slubs and coloured nubs. Now
they are made in other places
as well, particularly England.
For example coats, heavy suits,
sportswear.
• Donegal tweed
a medium to heavy of plain or
twill weave fabric in which
colourful yarn slubs are woven
into the fabric. The name origi-
nally applied to a hand-woven
woollen tweed fabric made in
Donegal, Ireland. End-uses in-
elude winter coats and suits.
• dope
a solution (spinning solution) of
fibre-forming polymer as pre-
pared for extrUSion through a
spinneret. A spinning solution
is often referred to as dope, a
term historically associated with
cellulose ethanoate (cellulose
1 e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
textilestudycenter.com
75
*================
~ acetate) solutions as varnishes.
~ • dope-dyed
~ descriptive of man-made fibres
; in which colouring matter (e.g,
: dye or pigment) has been incor-
~ porated before the filamen~ is
I formed.
I.doru
; long rope with which the thick
: woollen coat worn by the
~ gaddis is secured around the
I waist.
I. dosuti
.
I a Hindi word, which literally
~ means 'two threads' used to
: describe the operation of com-
~ bining two threads together at
; a winding machine, in which
: case the operation is known as
~ 'dosuti winding'. When applied
I to fabric, it means that two warp
~ ends are working in pairs and
: that two weft threads are placed
~ in the same shed.
~ • dot
~ a design dominated by circular
; spots, which may be of any size,
: printed or woven into the fab-
~ ric. Small dots are often called
~ pin dots, medium to large dots
; may be referred to as aspirin
76
=================*
dots, coin dots or polka dots.
• dotted Swiss
1. a lightweight, sheer cotton or
cotton blend fabric with a small
dot flock-like pattern either
printed on the surface of the
fabric, or woven into the fab-
ric. End-uses for this fabric in-
clude blouses, dresses, baby
clothes, and curtains.
2: dots could be a single colour
or multicoloured. Placed regu-
larly or irregularly on a semi-
sheer usu;illy crisp fabric, which
mayor may not be permanent.
First made on hand looms in
Switzerland. It is made in 32'
width. The lappet is the most
permanent. When hand woven
with a swivel attachment the
dots are tied in by hand on the
back of the cloth. The ground
fabric is usually a voil or a lawn.
For example children and
women's summer dresses and
blouses, aprons, curtains, bed-
spreads. It is a young looking
fabric.
• double cloth
1. a fabric construction, in which
two fabrics are woven on the
loom at the same time, one on
11======Textile
dotted Swiss I double knit II
I top of the other. In the weav-
I ing process, the two layers of
woven fabric are held together
I using binder threads. The wo-
I ven patterns in each layer of fab-
ric can be similar or completely
different.
I
2. a fabric consisting of 2 layers
I woven together on the same
loom. The fabrics may be held
together with binder threads or
I
interwoven. The 2 layers often
I are of different patterns, colours
or weaves. Used for coatings,
I
sportswear, blankets, and up-
I holstery.
I • double face
I a reversible 2 layer fabric, usu-
ally with a different colour or
pattern on each side. Double
I face is usually a double cloth but
I some reversible bonded fabrics
may be referred to as double
face.
I • double knit
a weft knit fabric in which two
I layers of loops are formed that
cannot be separated. A double
knit machine, which has two
I complete sets of needles, is re-
I quired for this construction. As
they curl, sag, and shrink less
 textilestudycenter.com

II doublewetl-l'e I doupion, douppioni . . ==========",,7=7

than single knits, they are more ~ • doubling machine

suitable for sportswear and tai- I a machine which folds cloth to
lored garments. ; half or quarter of its original
• double weave : width.
I
a woven fabric construction : .doup
I
made by interlacing two or : a special kind of heddle, used
more sets of warp yarns with ~ in conjunction with ordinary
two or more sets of filling ; heddles on the harnesses of a
yarns. The most common : loom to cross and uncross
double weave fabrics are made ~ warp filaments (in both a hori-
using a total of either four or ~ zontal and vertical plane)
five sets of yarns. ; when weaving cross-thread
• double-face satin : tissues, such as gauze weave
~ or leno weave.
yarn woven with two warps and
one filling, to simulate a double ~ • doupion, douppioni
satin construction. Has satin on ~ 1. silk yarns made from the co-
both sides. Cotton filling is of- ; coon of two silk worms that
ten used in cheaper qualities. : have nested together. In spin-
• doubling ~ ning, the double strand is not
1. the process of combining I separated so the yarn is uneven
two or more strands of roving ; and irregular with a large diam-
or sliver and drawing out the : eter in places.
resulting strand. The purpose ~ 2. fabric is of silk made in a
of this operation is to increase I plain weave. The fabric is very
the uniformity of the cotton ~ irregular and shows many slubs
strand and, ultimately of the : seem to be made in a hit and
yarn made from it. ~ miss manner. It is imitated in
2. the act of winding two or ; rayon and some synthetics, and
more strands of yarn onto one : one such fabric is called 'cupioni'.
package without twisting ~ Doupion yarns also used in
~ shantung, pongee.
them.

Thdile=---====== II
78 dtnvn proof I draw pin II
=================*
• down proof I • draw (mule)
a fabric which resists the pen- I the cycle of operations from the
etration of down. The fabric start of the outward run to the
may be closely woven to be finish of the inward run of the
down proof by nature or may ~ carriage of a spinning.
be cired or coated to make it I • draw (sampling)
down proof.
I a sample of fibres abstracted
• draft I manually from a bulk lot of raw
1. when drafting the degree of : material or sliver with a view
attenuation calculated either as ~ to assessing the length and/or
the ratio of the input and out- ~ distribution of length of fibre
put linear densities, or as the ; within the sample.
ratio of the surface speeds of : • draw mechanism (knit-
the output and input machine ~ ting)
components which bring about ;
drafting, : a mechanism on a straight-bar
I knitting machine for converting
2. to reduce the linear density
I rotary motion into reciprocat-
of a fibrous assembly by draw-
ing motion for the purpose of
ing, or drafting.
laying the yarn and kinking it
• drapey I round the needles.

refers to a fabric with good I • draw pin

drape, that is, one that is
I a stationary pin or guide, which
supple and falls easily into
by inducing a localised change
graceful folds when hung or I
in yarn tension and/or tem-
tailored.
I perature may be used to

• draping stabilise the position of the

draping means to hang or to draw-point or neck in some pro-
adorn the body form with loose I cesses of drawing of man-
fabric, and to obtain a body fit- I made-fibre yarns. For the draw-
ted garment by using adequate ing of some fibre types, e.g.,
sewing techniques. polyester, a heated pin may be

11======1Cxtile
 textilestudycenter.com

II dmwratW I drawing (staple yarn) * ===========7",,9

used: with other types, e.g., ~ - draw thread (knitting)

nylon, the pin is normally not I a thread introduced in the form
heated. ; of one row ofloops during knit-
_ draw ratio : ting which, on removal, permits
h· d .. ~ the separation of articles that
md ac .Ine raw rahtlo, .In a ; are knitted as '1 succession of
rawmg process, t e ratio of . .
. 1leraI spee d 0 f t h e ;
t h e penp uruts connected together.
draw roller to that of the feed ~ - draw threads (lace)
roller.: true draw ratio, in a : removable threads included in
drawing process, the ratio of I the construction of lace either
the linear density of the ~ to act as a temporary support
undrawn yam to that of the ; for certain parts of the pattern
drawn yam Residual draw ra- : or to hold together narrow
tio, the draw ratio required, in ~ widths or units that are sepa-
draw texturing, to convert a ; rated subsequently by their re-
partially oriented yarn into a : moval.
commercially acceptable prod- I
uct. Natural draw ratio, the :I - draw-down
ratio of the cross-sectional ar- : in man-made filament extru-
eas of a filament: before and ~ sion, the ratio of take-up or
after the neck, when a syn- ~ haul-off speed to the average
thetic filament or film draws ; speed of the spinning fluid as it
at a neck. leaves the spinneret. The terms
~ spin-stretch ratio and extrusion
- draw roller
; ratio are also commonly used.
the output roller of a zone in
which drawing takes place. ; - drawing (staple yarn)
; operations by which slivers are
- draw sliver
: blended (or doubled) levelled,
the loose, untwisted strand of ~ and by drafting reduced to the
cotton fibres which is the I state of sliver or roving suitabl~
product of the drawing ~ for spinning. In cotton spinning
frames. : the term is only applied to pro-
I

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
80 .. dmwingframe I drawing-in 1/

cessing at the draw frame. Vari- I of the cleaner box cover, \vhich
ous systems of drawing are I serves to wipe away the dust and
practised in modern worsted lint that collects on the draw-
spinning, but with machinery ing rollers as they draw out the
development, and the greater I roving or sliver.
use of man-made staple fibres, I _ drawing rollers
the differences are becoming
less distinct. Most modern I two or more pairs of rollers,
drawing sets incorporate three I each yair of which rotates at a
passages of pin drafting and a higher speed than the preced-
roving process. The systems ~ ing pair, serving to draw out or
differ mainly in the means of I attenuate the roving or sliver
fibre control between the ma- . passing between them.
jor pairs of drafting rollers and _ drawing, cold
in the types of output package. I the drawing of synthetic fila-
- drawing frame ments or films without the in-
a machine in which several I tentional application of external
strands of sliver are combined I heat. Free drawing of fllaments
into one strand and drawn out or films at a neck is also referred
so that the combined strands I to as cold drawing even though
approximate the weight and I this may be carried out in a
size of anyone of the original heated environment.
strands. _ drawing, hot
_ drawing in a term applied to the drawing
the process of threading the I of synthetic fllaments or films
warp filaments from a beam ~ with the intentional application
through the heddles and reed of ; of external heat.
a loom in the order indicated on - drawing-in
a design draft. the process of drawing the
_ drawing roll cleaner threads of a warp through the
a pad of felt or similar mate- I eyes of a healed and the dents
rial, attached to the underside I of a reed.

II ========ThxU/e

II dmlPing-in.frame I dm",-lPind
• drawing-in frame
a frame for holding a beam of
warp strands, harnesses, and
reeds so that the strands may
be drawn' easily through the
harnesses and reeds in a speci-
fied order.
• drawing-in hook
a tool similar to a crochet
hook, used to draw the indi-
vidual warp filaments through
the heddles and reed of a
loom.
• drawn yarn
extruded yarn that has been sub-
jected to a stretching or draw-
ing process that orients the
long-chain molecules of which
it is composed in the direction
of the ftlament axis. On further
stretching, such yarn acquires
elastic extension as compared
with the plastic flow of undrawn
yarn.
• draw-spinning
a process for spinning par-
tially or highly oriented fila-
ments in which the orientation
is introduced prior to the first
forwarding or collecting de-
Vlce.
Textile========
textilestudycenter.com
*~~~~~~~~~~"",8=1
~ • draw-texturing
~ a process in which the drawing
; stage of man-made-yarn manu-
: facture is combined with the
~ texturing process on one ma-
I chine. The drawing and textur-
~ ing stages may take place in
: separate, usually consecutive,
~ zones of a machine (sequential
; draw-texturing) or together in
: the same zone (simultaneous
~ draw-texturing).
I d raw-twIst
.
.•
~ to orient a filament yarn by
I drawing it and then to twist it
~ in integrated sequential stages.
~ • draw-warping
: a process for the preparation of
~ warp beams or section beams
~ from a creel of packages of par-
; tially oriented yarn in which the
: traditionally separate stages of
~ drawing and beaming are com-
; bined sequentially on one ma-
: chine, also termed draw-beam-
~ ing, warp drawing.
~ • draw-wind
~ to orient a fllament yam by draw-
~ ing it, and then to wind it on to a
; package in an integrated process
: without imparting twist.
I
II
82 dressi; (jIRx) I dressi"lJ ("'"rp preparation) II
• dressing (flax) ~ (a) splitting-off from stock ball
a combing process applied to ; warps (bleached or dyed, and
stricks or pieces of line flax fi- : sized) the required number of
bre to parallelise the strands, ~ threads of the required colours,
remove naps or bunches of en- 1 (b) the winding of the differ-
tangled fibres, and square the 1 ently coloured warps, each onto
ends of the pieces by pulling or a separate 'back' or warper's
breaking fibres that protrude 1 beam, and, (c) the simultaneous
from the ends. I winding of the threads from a
set of back beams ~rough a
• dressing (lace) coarse reed onto a loom beam:
the operation of stretching lace, ~ 2. (dresser sizing, scotch warp
net, or lace-furnishing products ; dressing) a method of warp
to size, then drying, after the preparation, used particular
application of stiffening or soft- I linen llWustry, which incorpo-
ening agents. The stretching I rates sizing. Yam in sheet form
and drying may be carried out is withdrawn from two
on either a running or a station- Warper's beams (one set at each
ary frame. 1 end of the machine) and wound

1 onto a loom beam at a head-

• dressing (warp prepara-
tion) stock. Each half of the machine
has its own size box and hot-
the operation of assembling I: air-drying arrangement,
yarns from a ball warp, beam, yorkshire dressing, a method of
or chain on a beam immediately 1 preparing a striped warp beam
prior to weaving, scotch dress- 1 for a loom. Four operations are
mg, I involved, (a) splitting-off from
1. (dry taping, scotch beaming) stock ball warps (bleached or
a .method of preparing striped 1 dyed, and sized) the required
warps for weaving, suitable for 1 number of threads of the re-
use when long lengths of any ~ quired colours, (b) the disposi-
one pattern ~re to b~ woven. : tion of these threads to pattern
Three operatIons are mvolved, I in the reed with or without ends

11======Thmle
 textilestudycenter.com

II drill I dry cIetm 83

.==============~
from stock grey warps, (c) the ~ uses.
slow and intermittent winding; dr·
of the threads onto the loom:· IP-dry
beam, during the process they ~ descriptive of textile materials
are tensioned by means of rods ' that are reasonably resistant to
,
and rollers, brushed by hand, : disturbance of fabric structure
and kept and in correct position : and appearance during wear
and if, as is usual, there are two ~ and washing and require a mini-
or four ends per reed dent, ; mum of ironing or pressing.
these are further separated by ~ • drop stitch
means of a rod, and, (d) the . .. .
icking of an end-and-end Iease. ; refers to. a knit d· fabnc With
. an
P
The process ensures that in the ~ open strIpe eslgn ~t set tnter-
warp all threads will be ke t : vals made by removmg some of
P ,the needles.
paralle,I separated one from
another, in their correct posi - ; • drop wire
tion, and correctly tensioned. ~ a flat piece of metal, with a hole
• drill : in it, through which warp fila-
, . d
1. a strong, medium to heavy : ment IS passe .. It drops and
weight 2xl or 3xl warp faced ~, stops the machme when t~e
· · · " filament threaded through it
twill usually 0 f cotton. ItIs Slffil-
lar to denim but drill is usually ~ breaks.
piece dyed. : • dry
2. closer, flatter Wales that ~ refers to a fabric that feels lack-
ganardine. Medium weight and ' ing in surface moisture or natu-
course yarns are used. Also ~ ral lubrication. Cottons are of-
made in some other weights. : ten said to feel dry.
Some left in the grey but can ~ • dry clean
be bleached or dyed. When I
dyed a khaki colour it is known : to remove grease, oil, and dirt
by that name. For example uni- ~ from. garments. or fabrics by
forms, work clothes, slipcovers, ~ treatmg the.m. m an organic
sportswear, and many industrial ; solvent, as distlllct from aque-

1kti1e======= II
84 dry lRying I duehesse /au !I
~~~~~~~.

ous liquors. Examples of suit- ~ • drying cylinder

able solvents are white spirit, I heated, rotating, hollow
trichloroethylene (trichloreth- ~ cylinder(s) around which textile
ylene) and tetrachloroethyl- : material or paper is passed in
ene (perchlorethylene). The ~ contact with it.
Process was originally known;.• dry-spun
as 'French c 1eamng, . , a1so .
termed French cleaning ~ 1. descriptive of a worsted yarn
. ; produced from a dry-combed
• dry laymg : top or of synthetic yams spun
a method of forming a fibre ~ on similar machinery,
web or batt by carding and/or ~ 2. descriptive of coarse flax yarn
air laying, followed by any type ; spun from air-dry roving,
of bonding process. ~ 3. descriptive of man-made f~a-
• dry spinning : ments produced by· dry-spm-
I .
conversion of a dissolved poly- : nmg.
mer into fllaments by extrusion I • duchesse
and evaporation of the solvent ~ this form of satin has a wonder-
from the extrudate. ~ fullustre and a smooth feel. Its
• dry-combed top : thread count is very high.
I
a wool top containing not more : • duchesse lace
than 1 % of fatty matter~d ~ a guipure lace characterised by
on the oven-dry, f~t-free w~Ight ~ floral and leaf designs with very
as tested b! the mte~na~on~ ; little ground. Heavier threads are
wool textIle orgamsation s : intertWined to give raised tex-
method which specifies sachet ~ ture. Used in bridal veils and
extraction with dichloromethane, ;
the standard regain of a dry- : gowns.
combed top is 18.25% based on ~
the combined weight of oven- I
,-I ... , fat-free wool and the fatty :
...... y, I
matter.

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 textilestudycenter.com

II duek I dupiqn 85
*==============~
• duck ~ a crosswise rib. It is produced
1. a tightly woven, heavy, plain- in a variety of weights & used
;
weave, bottom-weight fabric : in a variety of products such as
with a hard, durable finish. The ~ tents, awnings, sails, upholstery,

women's slacks, and children's

I.
fabric is usually made of cotton, ~ footwear, jackets, and trousers.
and is widely used in men's and dull
I descriptive of textile materials,
play clothes.
~ the lustre of which has been re-
2. also called canvas. Name : d uce. d
originated in 18thcenrurywhen I
canvas sails from Britain bare : • dupaluidupallari top
I
the trademark symbol a duck. : small, close-fitting cap made
It is the most du~able fabric ~ generally of muslin, and co1\-
made. There are many kinds of ; sisting of two identical pieces
duck but the heavier weighs are : cut slightly rounded and curved
called canvas. It may be un- ~ towards the top.
bleached, white, dyed, printed ~ • dupatta
or painted. Washable, many are
waterproof and wind proof. ~ veil-cloth worn by women,
Made in various weights. For ; draped loosely around the up-
example utility clothing in ~ per part of the body. .
lighter weights, such as trou-
sers, jackets, aprons. Also for
awnings, sails, slipcovers,drap- I
eries, sportswear, tents, and
many industrial uses .
• duck canvas
a strong, firm, tightly woven,
durable fabric usually of cotton I
but sometimes of linen, hemp ; • dupion
or other fibres. It is usually; a silk-breeding term meaning
plain weave but sometimes with : double-cocoon. Hence, an ir-
I

'Dwtile====== II
86
regular, raw, rough silk reeled ~
from double cocoons.
d . f b .
- uplon a nc
originally a silk fabric woven I
from doupion yarns. The term :
is nowadays applied to imita- ~
tions woven from man-made- ~
fibre yarns, but it is recom- ;
mended that in such contexts:
the name of the fibre be indi- ~
cated.
- durability
the ability of a fabric to resist I
wear through continual use.
_ durable finish
f fi . h bl I
an~ type 0 filS reasona y ;
resistant to normal usage,.
· .
washing, and/or dry-cIeanmg. I
- durable press
a treatment applied to the fab-
ric in the fInishing process in
which it maintains a smooth
attractive appearance, resists
wrinkling, and retains creases
or pleats during laundering.
- d ura
°
ble press
0 • °
a firushing treatme~t deslgn~d
to impart to a textile matenal
or ~ent. The re~entio~ of
speCific contours mcludmg
1I'========7i:aile
creases and pleats resistant to
; normal usage, washing, and/or
: dry-cleaning. The treatment
~ may involve the use of synthetic
resin, which may be applied and
cured either before or after fab-
rication of a garment, or, in the
case of textiles composed of
heat-settable fibres, may in-
volve high-temperature press-
ing.
I d
: - uvetyn
I 1. medium to heavy weight
twill fabric with a soft, shon
nap covering the weave. It has
a suede, velvety hand. Origi-
nally made of wool or wool
blends but may be of cotton or
th fib U d" ts
0 er res. se m SUIts, coo ,
d millin0
: an ery.
~ 2. close weave, brushed, singed,
; and sheared to conceal the
: weave. Has a smooth plush ap-
~ pearance resembling compact
I velvet. Has a good draping
~ quality, soft and wears well if
: looked after. Spots easily and
~ care must be taken when han-
.I dling It.
°
Back IS
° f1
0 ten s
lighdy
; napped also. Name derived
. from the French word 'duvet'
~ meaning 'down'. Women coats,
; suits, and dresses, depending on
 textilestudycenter.com

II dye I eliuti&ity 87

the weight, it uses a great deal ~ are sufficiently different in fibre,

in the millinery trade. ; count, or construction to form
• dye : or enhance a pattern.
I

a colourant that has substan- :I • Egyptian cotton

tively for a substrate, either in- : cotton from Egypt
herent or induced by reactants. ~ characterised by its strong, fine,
~ long and lustrol,lS fibres.
• dyed & overprinted
refers to fabrics which have I • elastane (fibre) (generic
been first piece dyed, then ; name)
printed in colours that are : a term used to describe fibres
darker than the dyed ground. ~ that are composed of synthetic
~ linear macromolecules having
• dye-fixing agent
; in the chain at least 85% (by
a substance, generally organic, : mass) of segmented polyure-
applied to a dyed or printed ~ thane groups and which rapidly
material to improve its fastness ; revert substantially to their
to wet treatments. : original length after extension
I .
• easy care : to three runes that length.
I
refers to fabrics which are re- : • elastic fabric
stored to their original appear- ~ a fabric containing rubber or
ance after laundering with little I other elastomeric fibres or
or no ironing. Generally such; threads, having recoverable ex-
fabrics can be machine-washed : tensibility in a direction paral-
and tumble dried/see drip-dry. ~ lel to the elastomeric threads,
• ecru (knitting) ; and characterised by a high re-
: sistance to deformation and a
descriptive of fibres, yarns, or ~. high capacity to recover its nor-
fabrics that have not been sub-
jected to processes affecting ~ mal size and shape.
their natural colour. ~ • elasticity
• effect threads I the ability of a fibre or fabric to

yarns insened in a fabric that ~ return to its original length,

7b:tik======11
88 eI4rtotlime I emboss II
shape, or size immediately af- I with relatively inenensible fi-
ter the removal of stress. I bres. Wrapping is done by cov-
ering, core spinning or
• clastodiene
uptwisting. For example are
a term used to describe fibres I elastane and elastodiene yarns.
composed of natural or syn-
thetic polyisoprene, or com- I • electrostatic flocking
posed of one or more dienes I the process of applying a flock
polymerised with or without to an adhesive-coated substrate
one or more vinyl monomers, in a high-voltage electrostatic
which rapidly revert substan- I field.
tially to their original length I • elongation
after enension to three times
I see enension the increase may
that length.
be expressed in three ways,
• elastomer namely (i) as a length, (ii) as a
1. any polymer having high ex-I percentage of the initial length,
tensibility together with rapid I and, (iii) as a fraction of the ini-
and substantially complete elas- tial length.
tic recovery. Most fibres formed • elysian
from elastomers have breaking I
elongations in excess of one I a thick, heavy, usually woollen
hundred percent. fabric with a deep nap that
I forms a diagonal or ripple pat-
2. it is a synthetic rubber that
tern on the surface.
can be stretched to at least three I
times it's original length. Once ; • emboss
the exerted pull force is re- to produce a pattern in relief by
leased, this fibre returns to its passing fabric through a calen-
original length. I dar in which a heated metal

I bowl engraved with the pattern

• elastomeric yarn
: works against a relatively soft
a yarn formed from an elas-
~ bowl, built up of compressed
tomer. Elastomeric yarn may
I paper or cotton on a metal cen-
either be incorporated into fab-
tre.
ric in the bare state or wrapped I

II = = = = = = = = T e : a i l e
 textilestudycenter.com

II embossing lend-group 89
*===============
• embossing ~ 2. (weaving) an individual warp
a calendaring process in which thread,
;
fabrics are engraved with the ~ 3. (fabric) a length of ftnished
use of heated rollers under pres- : fabric less than a customary unit
sure to produce a raised design ~ (piece) in length,
on the fabric surface. • 4. (ftnishing) , (a) each passage
• embroidery ~ of a length of fabric through a
: machine, for example, in jig-
an embellishment of a fabric or ~ dyeing, (b) a joint between
garment in which coloured ; pieces of fabric due, far ex-
threads are sewn on to the fab- : ample, to damage or short
ric to create a design. Embroi- ~ lengths in weaving or damage
dery may be done either by hand ~ in bleaching, dyeing or ftnish-
or machine. ; ing.
; • end & end
~ a plain weave fabric with a warp
: yarn of one colour alternating
~ with a warp yarn of white or a
; second colour. Often the weft
: yarns alternate with the same 2
~ colours forming a mini check
~ design .
• emerising ~ • end-group
a process in which fabric is • a chemical group that forms the
passed over a series of emery- ~ end of a polymer chain. Linear
covered rollers to produce a : polymers possess two end-
suede-like finish. A similar pro- ~ groups per molecule and
cess is known as sueding. ; branched polymers with n
• end : branch points possess n + 2 end-
:• groups per molecule.
1. (spinning) an individual
strand,

Te:aile======== II
90 nulsdolm I et/mit: II
~=============.
- ends down ~ more of its properties, e.g., its
(i) a condition in which one or I electrical conductivity.
~ore ends.have ?roken in a tex- ~ _ eponge (souftle)
tile machine. (11) a defect in: .
cloth that h . I denved from the French term
occurs w en weaVIng . c.,
is continued after ends have bra- i eponge lor ~po~gy'. Ve~ soft
ken, without first mending : and sponge-like .m a vanety of
them. ~ novelty effects With loose weave
i of about 20 x 20. Also known
- engageantes : as ratine in cotton. Rayon and
lace cuffs with two or three ~ silk is soft, loose, and ~pongy,
rows of ruffles, finishing ~ something like terry cloth.
women's gown sleeves in Louis i Does not have surface loops.
XIV'S time. They were still: Many stores now call eponge
worn in the 18th century with ~ 'boucle'. For example suits,
gowns a la francaise. i dresses, coats, sportsWear, and
_
: summer suits.
enzyme was hed I

refers to the process of wash- :I - eri

ing with a cellulose enzyme, one : a type of wild silk.
which attacks the cellulose in ~ _ ethnic
the fabric giving it a used, worn I ._ .
appearance and a desirable soft ~ refers to.desIgns With elements
hand. The effect is similar to : suggestmg the culture or
stone washing but is less dam- I
aging to the fabric. it is some-
times called bio-washing. Done
commonly with denim or other
cottons and fabrics of lyocell.
- epitropic fibre
a fibre whose surface contains I
partially or wholly embedded : traditional designs of a particu-
particles that modify one or ~ lar group of people.
I

11========1l:aik
 textilestudycenter.com

II '-".foliation I eyeletplllte
• exfoliation
an inherent fault in silk only
apparent after degumming or
dyeing. It is characterised by
fme fibrils or fibrillae that be-
come separated from the fila-
91
*================
~ • extrusion
~ in the spinning of man-made
; ftlaments, fibre-forming sub-
: stances in the plastic or molten
~ state, or in solution, are forced
I through the holes of a spinneret

ment, so giving a speckled, di- ~ or die at a controlled rate.

shevelled appearance. : There are five general methods
~ of spinning (extruding) man-
• exhaustion
; made fllaments, but combina-
the proportion of dye or other : tions of these methods may be
substance taken up by a sub- .I used.
strate at any stage of a process I • •
to the amount originally avail- . • extrusIOn ratio
able. ~ in man-made filament extru-
; sion, the ratio of take-up or
• expression (percent)
~ haul-off speed to the average
the weight of liquid retained by : speed of the spinning fluid as it
textile material after mangling ~ leaves the spinneret.
or hydroextraction, calculated
as a percentage of the air-dry ~ • eyelash
weight of the goods. I a fabric with clipped yarn on the
; surface suggesting eyelashes.
• extension
an increase in length. The in- ; - eyelet
crease may be expressed in ~ a type of fabric which contains
three ways, namely, (i) as a : patterned cut-outs, around
length, (ii) as a percentage of ~ which stitching or embroidery
the initial length, and, (iii) as a ; may be applied in order to pre-
fraction of the initial length. : vent the fabric from ravelling.
I

• extract : - eyelet plate

I
wool or hair recovered by the : a cross bar attached to the end
wet process of carbonisation. ~ of a creel immediately in front

1baile======11
~92=========* fabric (textile) I~to-ftu:ecarpets II
of each row of spindles. It is I numbering, when the fabric is
perforated with the same num- I measured laid flat on a table in
ber of holes, as there are the absence of tension.
I
spindles in the row and serves
:I - fabric width
to guide the individual ends
from the packages on the unless otherwise specified, the
spindles to the warping ma- ~ distance from edge to edge of a
I fabric when laid flat on a table
chine.
~ without tension. In the case of
- fabric (textile) commercial dispute the mea-
a manufactured assembly of fi- I surement should be made after
bres and/or yarns that has sub- I the fabric has been conditioned
stantial surface area in relation in a standard atmosphere for
to its thickness and sufficient testing. When buying and sell-
mechanical strength to give the I ing fabric it is normal to specify
assembly inherent cohesion. I the basis on which the width is
Fabrics are most commonly: to be assessed e.g., overall,
woven or knitted, but the term ~ within limits, or usable width
includes assemblies produced by ; (which implies within setter pin
lace making, tufting, felting, net : marks).
making, and the so-called non- _ face
woven processes.
the right side or the better-look-
ing side of the fabric.
- face-finished (fabric)
I descriptive of a finish, for ex-
I ample, to wool fabrics, in which
the face side is treated selec-
tively, as in raising.
- fabric length - face-to-face carpets
unless otherwise specified, the I carpets manufactured as a sand-
usable length of a piece between I wich in which the pile is at-
any truth marks, piece-ends, or tached alternately to two sub-

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 textilestudycenter.com

II focing Ifiule 93

strates, two cut pile carpets are ~ weight, and could be slightly
made by cutting the pile yarns ; creped. Background is much
between the two substrates. : more sheer than the designs,
~ therefore the designs seem to
• facing ~ stand out. Very effective when
a piece of fabric that is sewn to ; worn over a different colour.
the collar, front opening, cuffs, : drapes, handle, and wears well.
or arms eye of a garment to cre- ~ For example dresses, blouses,
ate a fInished look. ; scarves, after 5, dressy after-
• facing silk :I noon and bridal wear.
a fine lustrous fabric of silk : • faconne velvet
I
(usually of corded satin, twill : patterned velvet made by burnt-
weave, or barathea) used for ~ out print process. The design is
facing, e.g., lapels in men's ~ of velvet with background
evening wear. (Fabrics of other ; plain.
fIbres are used for facing pur-
poses but are not properly de- ~ • fad
scribed as 'facing silk'.) ~ short lived fashion are called
: fad's, they seldom have any last-
• facings
~ ing impact on future fashion.
edging of fme fur or rich cloth, ; They are briefly and suddenly
these trimmings were purely : seen everywhere and just as
for decoration. During the ~ suddenly they vanish.
course of time the meaning
changed towards the contempo- ~ • fade
rary meaning of today, the term ~ 1. in fastness testing, any
was extended to cover all the ; change in the colour of an ob-
reveres of the body or sleeves : ject caused by light or contami-
I .
of a garment. : nants m the atmosphere, e.g.,
~ burnt-gas fumes. The change in
• faconne
; colour may be in hue, depth or
faconne in French, means fancy : brighmess or any combination
weave. Have small designs all .I of these,
over the fabric. Fairly light in

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
~94~~~~~~~~= * foBIJoting lfolse-twisting II
2. colloquially, a reduction in the ~ weave. Has a distinct rib effect
depth ~f colour of an object, ir- ; and is usually quite heavy and
respectIve of cause.: fallers, (a) : firm.
~traight, pinned bars employed ~ _ falli bands
m the control of fibres between • ng
drafting rollers, (b) curved arms ~ :USO known as Rabat and hang-
fixed to two shafts on a mule : mg collars, linen or lace collars
carriage and carrying the faller ~ (or combined) with two distinct
wires. ; ends hanging down over the
_ f: otin : chest. Worn by both men and
agg g ~ women.
a openwork stripe effect with
~ - false-twist direction
connecting threads across the
open area that create a ladder ~ the direction, s or z, of twist
effect. ; generated by a false-twisting
• faille ~ device.
. : - false-twisting
1. a gIossy, soft, fmely-nbbed •
silk-like woven fabric made: a twisting operation applied at
from cotton, silk, or manufac- ~ an intermediate position on a
tured fibres. • yarn or other similar continu-
2. a plain weave fabric ~ ous assembly of fibres, so that
characterised by a narrow. cross- : no net twist can be inserted, as
wise rib which is usually ,the re-:'di' Stlnct fIrom twisting at the end
sult of a fme warp yarn crossed • of a yarn where real twist is in-
with a heavier weft yarn. Most ~ ~en:ed. Real ~isting necessar-
commonly made with filament : ily mvolves eIther rotation of a
yarns but can be from a variety ~ yam end~ ~ in up twisting or
of fibres and weights. It usually • down twlStlng, or the repeated
has a soft hand and a light lus- : passage of a thread loop around
tre with good body and drape. ~ an end, as two-for-one-twisting.
£,_:11 tatE • In false twisting, a yarn nor-
- l.auJe eta ;. mally runs contlnuously
. over or
made with a crosswise rib : through a false-twisting device,
•
II = = = = = = = ' I b : I i I e

which may act at either a con-
stant or varying rate. When the
twisting rate is constant and
equilibrium has been estab-
lished, the yarn passes through
a zone of added twist then, on
leaving the twisting device, re-
turns to its original twist level.
The added (false) twist level is
equal to the ratio of the rota-
tional and axial speeds of the
yarn. Equilibrium false-twisting
is utilised in one method of yarn
texturing where thermal setting
is carried out in the zone of
temporary twist, it is also used
to provide temporary cohesion
and thus strength in some
staple-fibre processing systems.
The self-twist process is an ex-
ample of the use of a varying
false-twisting rate. Static ele-
ments such yarn guides may, in
certain circumstances, generate
either equilibrium or varying
false-twist in running yarns.
- false-twist-textured yarn
a continuous process in which a
yarn is highly twisted, heat-set
and untwisted. In an infre-
quently used alternative
method, two yarns are continu-
ously folded together, heat-set,
ThaiIe======11
textilestudycenter.com
~ then separated by unfolding.
~ _ fancy yarn
~ a yarn that differs from the nor-
; mal construction of single and
: folded yarns by way of deliber-
~ ately produced irregularities in
' its construction. These irregu-
~ larities relate to an increased
: input of one or more of its com-
~ ponents or to the inclusion of
~ periodic effects such as ~ots,
; loops, curls, slubs or the like.
: _ fargul
~ a kind of jacket.
,
~ - farji
: a kind of jacket. Defmed by the
~ dictionaries as simply 'a kind of
; garment', the farji was pOssibly
: a long over-garment without
~ sleeves, or with very short
~ sleeves, open in front and worn
; like a coat over pyjama.
; _ farshi pyjama
~ wide-legged pyjama that trails
: on the ground, sometimes com-
~ pletely covering the feet, worn
; often with a kurta or
,
: angarakha.
,: - fasciated yarn
: a staple fibre yarn that by vir-
I
96
=================*
tue of is manufacturing tech-
nique consists of a core of es-
sentially parallel fibres bound
together by wrapper fibres. The
current technique of manufac-
ture is often referred to as jet
spmnmg.
• fashion forecast
to predict of foretell future
fashion tread for a specific pe-
riod of time.
• fastness
the property of resistance to an
agency named (e.g., washing,
light, rubbing, crocking, gas-
fumes). On the standard scale,
five grades are usually
recognised from signifying un-
affected to grossly change. For
light fastness eight grades are
used, representing the highest
degree of fastness.
• fatuhi
a 'jacket without sleeves'. Gen-
erally understood as a vest
lightly padded with cotton
wool, and quilted.
• faux fur
a pile fabric made to simulate
animal fur. May be woven or
knit in a variety of fibres al-
II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
foshion foreaut I fell II
I though acrylic and mod-acrylic
I are most common.
I • faux leather
I a fabric made to imitate animal
leather. Often a polyurethane
laminate.
• faux linen
I a fabric made with slubbed
I yarns to imitate linen. Usually
inexpensive, easy care fabrics.
• faux sheading
fabrics made to imitate shear-
ing- the pelt of a sheep with the
I wool in place.
I • faux silk
I a fabric of manufactured fibre,
most commonly polyester, with
I good drape, lustre and a soft
I hand to imitate silk.
I • faz-vi
I a 'jacket without sleeves'.
I • feed roller
I a roller that forwards a yarn to
a subsequent processing or
take-up stage.
• fell
the last picks that have been
I woven in the cloth by the
shuttle.
 textilestudycenter.com
II fellmon.tJering Ifibre length 97
*================
- fellmongering ~ are pennants, slippers, lining,
the process of pulling wool ; insoles, and toys.
from sheep skins. Felt, a textile ; - felting
fabric characterised by the en-
; the matting together of fibres
tangled condition of most, or
all, of the fibres of which it is ~ during processing or we~.
composed. Three classes of felt :I - fibre
can be distinguished, (a) fabrics : the basic entity, either natural
with a woven or knitted struc- ~ or manufactured, which is
ture, (b) pressed felt, which is I twisted into yarns, and then
formed from a web or batt con- ~ ~ed in the production of a fab-
taining animal hair or wool con- : ne.
solidated by the application of I fib
heat and mechamc · al action
. that·. - re (flax)
causes the constituent fibres to ~ flax cultivated mainly for fibre
mat together, (c) needle felt. ~ production as distinct from that
_ felt ; culti."ated for linseed-oil pro-
: ductIon.
1. a non-woven fabric made I
: - fibre length
from wool, hair, or fur, and I
sometimes in combination with : 1. crimped length, the distance
certain manufactured fibres, ~ between the ends of a fibre
where the fibres are locked to- ; when substantially freed from
gether in a process utilizing : external restraint, measured
heat, moisture, and pressure to ~ with respect to its general axis
form a compact material. ~ of orientation,
2. a very compact fabric in vari- ; 2. fibre extent, the distance be-
ous weights and thickness. Has : tween two planes which just
grain so can be cut any way. ~ enclose a fibre without inter-
Needs no hemming or finish- ~ cepting it, each plane being per-
ing, because it does not fray. ; pendicular to the direction of
Many industrial uses, such as : the yarn or other assembly of
piano hammers and in the ~ which the fibre forms a pan,
printing industry. For example I 3. staple length, a quantity by

Tl4Ctile======= II
98 jibreultimate lfibrillated II
================*
which a sample of fibrous raw I _ fibres
material is characterised as re- I the hair-like filaments of any
gards its technically most im- textile substance, such as the fi-
portant fibre length. The staple bres of cotton or the individual
length of wool is usually taken I hairs of wool.
as the length of the longer fi-
bres in a hand prepared tuft or - fibrid
'staple' in its naturally crimped I a netted filamentary or fibril-
and wavy condition. With cot- liar structure, substantially
ton, on the other hand, the longer in one dimension than
staple length corresponds very in the other two that exhibits
closely to the modal or most I a capacity for mechanical en-
frequent length of the fibres tanglement with other struc-
when measured in a straight- tures and much higher water-
ened condition, I holding capacity than fibres

4. span length, the extent ex- I produced by conventional

ceeded by a stated proportion spinning means. Fibrids are
of cotton fibres, e.g., 2.5% used as bonding elements in
span length is the length ex- I the production of wet-laid syn-
ceeded by only 2.5% of fibres I thetic papers.
by number. _ fibrillae
- fibre ultimate specks visible on the surface of
one of the unit botanical cells silk yarns.
into which leaf and baste fibres _ fibrillated
can be disintegrated.
a finish which causes tiny fibrils
- fibrefill I or fibrous elements to be spilt
specially engineered manufac- I from the fibres and protrude
tured fibres, which are used as from the surface of the fabric.
ftller material in pillows, mat- Results in a frosted, hazy, laun-
tresses, mattress pads, sleeping I
dered appearance and a soft
bags, comforters, quilts, and I
hand.
outerwear.

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 textilestudycenter.com

II fibrillated yarn Ifilament 99

*================
_ fibrillated yarn ~ nected fibres. Processes for pro-
a yarn produced by the process ducing fibrillation may be di-
;
of fibrillation. : vided into two groups, (a) those
~ producing random splitting to
_ fibrillated-film fibre ~ give a relatively coarse network,
staple fibre produced by cut- ; e.g., twisting, and, (b) those
ting, chopping or stretch-break- : producing controlled splitting
ing fibrillated yarn or fibrillated ~ to give a relatively fme network
fIltn two. I e.g., by rapidly rotating pinned

_ fibrillated-film tow : rollers.

I

an assembly of fibrillated tex- :I - fibroin

tile ftlms. : the part of a silk thread remain-
_ fibrillated-film yarn ~ ing after the gum has been dis-
~ charged.
yarn produced from fibrillating
I _ fichu
ftlm that has been converted into
a longitudinally fibrillated struc- I large neckerchief at the end of
ture. ~ the 18th century that was worn
: around the neck and shoulders
- fibrillating film
~ together with the robe a
a polymer ftlm in which mol- ; l'anglaise.
ecule orientation has been in-
; _ figue
duced by stretching to such a
degree that it is capable of be- ; a fibre from the leaf of the plant
ing converted into yarn or twine : furcraea macrophylla.
by manipulation, e.g., by twist- I
: - figured velvet
ing under tension which results I
in the formation of a longitudi- : a velvet fabric with a design in
nally split structure. ~ relief created by cutting or
; pressing of the pile.
_ fibrillation
; _ filament
the process of splitting a longi-
tudinally oriented textile flim or ; a manufactured fibre of indefi-
tape into a network intercon- :I nite length (continuous), ex-

Thmle======11
100 • filament blend yarn Ifindings II
truded from the spinneret dur- I • filling
ing the fibre production process. I 1. non-substantive and gener-
• filament blend yarn ally insoluble materials, such as
a fllament yarn which contains china clay, gypsum, etc, added
to fabrics together with starches
separate filaments of two dis-
I or gums during finishing to add
tinct types, the fllaments being
weight or to modify their ap-
more or less randomly blended I
pearance and handle. This term
over the cross-section of the
I is usually applied only to cellu-
yarn.
I lose textiles. Finishes in which
• filament yarn starches or gums are used with-
a yam composed of one or out the addition of insoluble
more fllaments that run essen- I materials are sometimes re-
tially the whole length of the ferred to as 'fillings' but are
yarn. Yams of one or more flla- more correctly described as 'as-
ments are usually referred to as I sisted finishes',
monofllament or multiftlament I 2. the equivalent term in North
respectively. America is 'fllier',
• filamentation • filling bobbin
a fibrous or hairy appearance a tapered core on which filling
due to broken filaments on the yarn is wound for use in the
surface of a yarn package or I shuttle.
fabric.
I • filling yarn
• filler fabric I also called woof and welt. It is
a rubber-coated cross-woven the yarn which is interlaced
fabric which is placed around through the warp to produce
the bead section assembly of a I cloth.
tyre and serves to reinforce the I • findings
join between apex and casing
plies. (In all-metallic radial-ply I any extra items attached to a
tyres this filler often consists of ~ garment during the manufac-
a ply of wire cords). . turing process. This can include

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 textilestudycenter.com

II finish Iflame rmstant 101

*================
trims, buttons, hooks, snaps, or ~ ments.
em bellishments.
~ - finisher picker
- finish I the second of the two units of
a term used broadly in the ; older style picker machines.
paint, paper, printing ink, : This unit receives partially
leather, plastics and textile in- ~ cleaned cotton in the form of
dustries to include the added I lap from a breaker picker and
materials, the finishing pro- ~ completes the cleaning and
cesses employed, and the fmal : fluffing process.
I
result,
: - finn
1. a substance or mixture of I
substances added to a substrate : refers to a fabric with a rela-
~ tively solid, compact texture,
at any stage in the process to
; good body and reduced drape.
impart desired properties,
2. the type of process, physical ; - fishnet
or chemical, applied to a sub- ~ a wide, coarse, relatively heavy
strate to produce a desired ef- : mesh used in apparel and trim-
fect, ~ mingo
3 . such properties, e.g., ~ _ fixation accelerator
smoothness, drape, lustre, gloss
or crease resistance, ~ a product added to a fmishing
; formulation to speed up, or
4. the state of the substrate as
. . : lower the temperature required
It leaves a prevIOUS process, I c. h . al .
. lor, c ernIC reaction.
5. the quality or appearance of ; .
a paint or printing-ink fllm, : - flame resIstant
6. to apply or produce a fmish. ~ refers to a fabric which will burn
; only when the source of the
- finished fabric :I flame remains lit, and will
a fabric that has gone through : quickly self extinguish when the
all the necessary fmishing pro- I source is removed. Standards
cesses, and is ready to be used ; for flame resistance are gener-
in . the manufacturing of gar- ally set according to the end use

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
102 Jlameraardant IJlannelette I
================*
of the fabric. Flame resistance I woven fabric with a soft,
may be the result of the nature I slightly napped surface. Expen-
of the fibre or of a chemical fm- sive flannels of wool and wool
ish put on the fabric. blends are usually napped and
I fuelled whereas less expensive
• flame retardant
flannels of cotton and other fi-
a chemical applied to a fabric, bres are usually just napped.
or incorporated into the fibre at I
3. originated in Wales. Soft,
the time of production, which
I with a napped surface that par-
significantly reduces a fabric's
tially cancels the weave. Dull
flammabili ty.
finish. Made in a variety of
• flame stitch I weights. More loosely woven
a zig zag design that suggests a I than worsted flannel with a
flame. higher nap and bulkier hand.
Shrinks if not pre-shrunk. Sags
I with wear, unless underlined.
Does not shine or hold a crease.
Comes in many colours,
weights, and fancy effects.
I Sometimes has a prickly feel
when worn. For example blaz-
ers, dresses, skirts, suits and
• flannel coats.
1. a medium-weight, plain or I • flannelette
twill weave fabric that is typi-
cally 'made from cotton, a cot- I 1. a medium-weight, plain
weave fabric with a soft hand,
ton blend, or wool. The fabric I
usually made from cotton. The
has a very soft hand, brushed I
on both sides to lift the fibre fabric is usually brushed only on
ends out of the base fabric and lone side, and is lighter weight
than flannel. End-uses include
create a soft, fuzzy surface. End- I
shirts and pyjamas.
uses include shirts and pyjamas.
I 2. a fabric made from cotton
2. a light to medium weight

II======~

II flash spinning I flat knitting machi:.. ==========10=3
warp and soft-spun cotton
weft, the fabric being subse-
quently raised on both sides
to give an imitation of the
true woollen flannel. The
weave may be plain, plain
with double -end warp, or
twill. It may be woven grey
and dyed or printed, or it may
be woven from dyed yarns.
Fibres other than cotton are
sometimes present in the weft
yarn. If these exceed 7% they
are named in the description,
e.g., cotton-rayon flannelette.
- flash spinning
a modification of the accepted
dry-spinning method in which
a solution of a polymer is ex-
truded at a temperature well
above the boiling point of the
solvent such that on emerging
from the spinneret evaporation
occurs so rapidly that the indi-
vidual filaments are disrupted
into a highly febrile form.
- flash-spun fabric
a non woven formed from the
fme fibrillation of a film by the
rapid evaporation of solvent
and subsequent bonding during
extruslOn.
Tl!.%tile=======
textilestudycenter.com
~ - flat
~ a flat piece of material covered
; with a special type of card cloth-
: ing, held in a horizontal posi-
~ tion on the 'flat top' type of
; carding machine. Working in
: conjunction with a carding
I . th
: drum, it aids in operung e cot-
~ ton fibres.
~ - flat crepe
I also called French crepe or lin-
; gerie crepe but not exactly the
: same. It is the flattest of all the
~ crepes with only a very slight
; pebbled or crepe effect hard
: twist alternating 25 x 22 in fill-
~ ing, warp has ordinary twist. It
~ is very soft and pliable, which
; makes it good for draping. It is
: very lightweight. It may be
~ white, coloured, or printed. For
; example accessories, blouses,
: dress goods, negligees, pyjamas
~ and other pieces of lingerie and
~ linings.
~ - flat fabric
I a two-dimensional woven or
~ knitted fabric that has no pile
: loops.
I
: - flat knitting machine
I h .
: a weft-knitting machine avmg
I
II
104 flat metRl yarn Iflat yarn "
=================*
straight needle beds carrying I the screen corresponds to the
independently operated latch I area to be printed in that
needles. Rib machines have two colour. The areas where
needle beds, which are opposed colour is not to pass through
to each other in inverted-v for- I are blocked. Dye paste is
mation. Purl machines have I forced through the open mesh
two needle beds horizontally: area with a squeegee. The fab-
opposed in the same plane. I ric is then moved or the screen
• flat metal yam I replaced to allow printing of
the next colour. In flat screen-
a yarn consisting of one or ~ printing the screens are in the
more continuous lengths of ; form of flat panels, the width
metal strip or incorporating one : of which is the same as the
or more continuous length (s) as repeat of the pattern. Flat
a major component, a notable I screen-printing allows for
example is a singles metal yarn I greater flexibility than rotary
in banknotes, which may be printing as the panel size can
0.50mm (0.020in.) wide and I often be adjusted to various
0.08 mm (0.003 in.) thick. For I repeat sizes.
this purpose, it must be with-
out twist, i.e., flat throughout I • flat setting
its length in the banknote. ~ the setting of fabric at open-
Analysis of the metal is proof ; width. The term is particularly
of the authenticity of a used in the finishing of woven
banknote, twist inserted in flat I wool fabrics, where setting is
metal yarns may form irregu- I usually affected by steaming
lar facets, which reflect light under pressure.
accor~gly t~ give decorative • flat yarn
effects m fabncs.
1. descriptive of full drawn con-
• flat screen printed tinuous-fllament yarns substan-
in screen printing a separate I tially without twist and
screen is created for each I untextured.
colour. The open mesh part of : 2. a synonym for straw.
I

II = = = = = = = = T e : a i / e

II jlRX IjlRX tow
• flax
1. the plant from which cellu-
lose linen fibre is obtained.
Linen is used in apparel, ac-
cessories, draperies, uphol-
stery, tablecloths, and towels.
2. this fibre is taken from the
stalk of the linum
usitaatissimum plant. It is a
long, smooth fibre and is cy-
lindrical in shape. Its length
varies from 6 to 40 inches but
on average is between 15 and
25 inches. Its colour is usually
off-white or tan and due to its
natural wax content, flax has
excellent lustre. It is consid-
ered to be the strongest of the
vegetable fibres and is highly
absorbent, allowing moisture
to evaporate with speed. It
conducts heat well and can be
readily boiled. Its wash abil-
ity is great, however, it has
poor elasticity and does not
easily return to its original
shape after creasing. When
processed into fabric it is
called linen. It is also used for
tablecloths, napkins, doilies,
twine, aprons, fishing tackle,
and nets.
1h:tile========
textilestudycenter.com
105
I
I
I
I
I • flax fibre bundle
; one of the aggregates of ulti-
: mate fibre that run from the
I
: base of the stem up to the top
I of the branches of flax straw.
; They are each composed of
: large numbers of ultimate fi-
~ bres overlapping each other.
~ • flax fibre strands
~ flax fibres after removal from
; the plant, consisting in the cross-
: section of more than one ulti-
I
: mate fibre.
I
: • flax tow
~ short flax fibres that are re-
I moved during the scutching or
~ hackling processes,
: (a) rug tow: short flax fibre re-
~ moved during scutching and
I containing extraneous woody
~ material,
II
106 flax yarn bundle Ifleecy fobric /I
========*
(b) re-scutched tow: short fibre I 2. has a deep, soft nap or pile,
which has been cleaned in a ; obtained by heavily napping
tow-scutching apparatus, : with wire brushes or with a pile
(c) machine tow: short fibre ~ weave. This provides air space
which has been removed from ~ giving good insulating proper-
scutched long flax during the ; ties without too much weight.
hackling process. : The inter-lacing is will covered
~ by the nap. The nap wears out
- flax yarn bundle ; in time, but good quality cloth
the standard length by which : gives good wear. Ral1ge from
wet-spun flax yarns are bought ~ cheap to expensive clothes.
and sold. The 'bundle' tradition- t Material is often cumbersome
ally contained 60000 yards . and bulky, therefore it may be
(about 55000 m) of yarn. difficult to manipulate.
- flax, green (obsolescent) - fleece wool
scutched flax produced from any wool as shorn from a living
deseeded straw without any in- I sheep. The term is in use to dis-
termediate treatment such as t tinguish this wool from other
retting. forms such as skin wool.
I
- flax-spun : _ fleecy
I
a term applied to staple yam resembling a wool fleece in ap-
that has been prepared and spun t pearance and handle, or descrip-
on machinery originally de- t tive of fabrics having a fine,
signed for spinning yarns from soft, open, and raised structure.
flax. _ fleecy fabric
- fleece a weft-knitted fabric composed
1. a fabric with a thick, soft nap of three separate yarns, a
or pile resembling sheep's I ground yarn of normal count, a
wool. Commonly a knit which fmer binding yarn, and a thicker
has been brushed and sheared fleecy yarn which is held into
but may be woven. I the fabric at close intervals by

II = = = = = = = = T e x r i l e
 textilestudycenter.com

II flock I flocking 107

the binding yarn. The fleecy
yarn appears on the back of
plain-knitted fabric and presents
an ideal surface for brushing or
ratsmg.
- flock
a material obtained by reducing
*================
~ contained in the adhesive, or the
; fibres may be applied electro-
: statically to hold them erect.
I
: - flock printing
I
: a method of fabric ornamenta-
~ tion in which adhesive is printed
I on and then finely chopped fi-

textile fibres to fragments as by ; bres are applied all over by

cutting, tearing, or grinding.
There are two main usages, (a)
stuffing flock: fibres in en-
tangled small masses or beads,
u~ually of irregular broken fi-
bres, obtained as a by-product,
: means of dusting-on, an air-
~ blast, or electrostatic attraction.
; The fibres adhere only to the
: printed areas and are removed
~ from the unprinted areas by
I mechanical action.

as, for example, in the milling, I _ flocked carpets

cropping, or raising of wool fab-
ric, and mainly used for stuff- I carpets manufactured by apply-
ing, padding, or upholstery; (b) I ing short chopped lengths of
coating flock: cut or ground fi- fibre(flock) to an adhesive-
bres used for application to I coated backing fabric. The ap-
yarn, fabric, paper, wood, I plication is usually carried out
metal, or wall surfaces prepared ~ electrostatically.
with an adhesive (see also elec- : _ flocking
trostatic flocking). ~ a type of raised decoration ap-
- flock printed ~ plied to the surface of a fabric
a method of printing resulting I in which an adhesive is printed

in short fibres, rather than ~ on the fabric in a specific pat-

colour, being applied in a design
to the surface of the fabric. The
fabric may be printed with an
adhesive and the fibre dusted
onto it, or the fibres may be
: tern, and then finely chopped
~ fibres are applied by means of
; dusting, air-brushing, or elec-
:I trostatic charges. The fibres
: adhere only to the areas where

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
108 JIocks (wool) I flyer II
=================*
the adhesive has been applied, ~ • fluoro fibre
and the excess fibres are re- I a term used to describe fibres
moved by mechanical means. composed of linear macromol-
• flocks (wool) ecules made from fluorocarbon
waste fibres obtained from aliphatic monomers.
wool during the different finish- • fly
ing processes. I fibres that fly out into the at-
• floral I mosphere during processing.
refers to design motifs domi- I • fly frame
nated by flowers. lone of several machines that
progressively combine two
strands of partially processed
I roving into one, draw out the
combined strands until they are
of prescribed weight, and twist
I them loosely in order to give

I them sufficient strength to

: withstand subsequent opera-
I .
nons .
• fly shot loom
a multi-piece loom for weaving
• flounce I narrow fabrics in which each
shuttle is knocked through the
a band of cloth or lace fluting I
open shed by means of a peg
around a garment to which it is
I fixed in a slide. The term is also
attached only by its upper edge.
I sometimes applied to single-
• fluff head narrow-fabric looms.
lint or fluff that has accumu- • flyer
lated on a knitting machine and I
become incorporated in the fab- a hollow, u-shaped rotor,
I mounted open-side-down on
dc.

11======Th:ai/e

II flyer spinning I fontange
top of a spindle of a fly frame.
It is rotated independently of
the spindle and serves to twist
the roving and wind it on bob-
bins which are held on the
spindtes.
- flyer spinning
textilestudycenter.com
109
*================
~ outerwear and carpet backings.
; _ folded yarn
:
~ a. yarn in which two. or more
I smgle yarns are tWIsted to-
~ gether (fold) in one operation,
: e.g., two-fold yarn, three-fold
I yarn, etc. in some sections of the

a spinning system in which yarn ~ textile industry, e.g., the mar-

passes through a revolving flyer : keting of hand-knitting yams,
leg guide on to the package. the ~ these yarns are referred to as
yarn is wound-on by making
the flyer and spinning package
; two-ply, three-ply, etc..
; - folding machine
rotate at slightly different
speeds ; a machine which folds cloth into
: yard length folds for baling.
- foam backed fabric I
: - folk weave
a combined fabric usually hav- I
ing two layers, one of which is : a term applied to any construc-
of cellular plastics material. ~ tion which, when used in loosely
; woven fabrics made from coarse
- foam bonding : yams, gives a rough and irregu-
I
a method of making non wo- : lar surface effect. Coloured
ven fabrics in which a fibre web ~ yarns are commonly used to
or batt is treated by theappli- ; produce weft way and/or warp
cation of a liquid in the form of : way stripes.
a foam. ~ _ fontange
I
- foam laminated : a bow on a ladies' headdress
a layer of foam usually polyure- ~ worn in the late 17th and early
thane, PVC or latex is bonded ; 18th centuries, named after
to the fabric with adhesive or : the duchesse de fontanges.
fused to the fabric with heat. ~ The term is often incorrectly
Generally results in a 'breath- ~ applied to the whole head-
able' fabric. Used for footwear, ; dress.

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
~1~1O==========* forehead cloth l.frictionspinning II
• forehead cloth I usually printed with small fig-

16th and 17th century term, for lures .on a dark or light back-
a band covering the front of a ground. Was originally im-
woman's head. It was often tri- ported from India. For example
I dresses, robes, scarves, and
angular.
neckwear of all kinds. First
• forming trumpet made for the handkerchief
(i) a short, flared, metal tube I trade.
at the front of a carding ma- I • fox
chine. The film of cotton fibres
from the machine is passed I colour varies from black to red,
through the tube, which forms I silver, silver-grey and white. For
them into a sliver. (ii) a similar example scarves, muffs, jackets,
device at the front of a warping coats, trimmings, also to pro-
machine. It is used for gather- I vide softness in wool blends for
ing a number of strands of yarn I textile industry.
into a loose, untwisted rope • French terry
when ball warping. a knit jersey with loops on one
• forte of a garment side. Sometimes napped to
means the strong point of the I make fleece.
garment. I • Frey
• foulard I threads which come out from
1. a lightweight, lustrous, soft I the fabric during handling.
2x2 twill fabric usually found • friction spinning
printed . Used in neckties a method of open-end spinning
scarves dresses. which uses the external surface
2. small all over geometric I of two rotating rollers to col-
print design usually on a plain I lect and twist individual fibres
solid ground typical of those into a yarn. At least one of the
found on neckties. rollers is perforated so that air
3. very soft, light fabric. Noted I can be drawn through its sur-
for its soft finish and feel. It is face to facilitate fibre collection.

II ================== Textile

II frictUm-twisting I fuji
The twisting occurs near the nip
of the rollers and, because of
the relatively large difference
between the yam and roller di-
ameters, the friction between
the roller surface and the yarns
achieves high yarn rotational
speeds.
- friction-twisting
the generation of false-twist by
a device in which the yarn lies
in contact with one or more sur-
faces of high friction driven in
a direction at substanti.al--angle
to the yarn axis. In practice,
friction disks, belts or bushes
are commonly used
- frieze
a pile fabric with the loops left
uncut. Usually the loops are
sheared to various heights to
form a pattern. Used widely
for upholstery and slipcovers.
- frise
rayon most popular, also mo-
hair and silk and synthetics. The
ground or backing yarns are
usually made of cotton. Some-
times jute or hemp is combined
with the cotton. Made usually
with uncut loops in all-over pat-
T , . , m ! e = = = = = = = II
textilestudycenter.com
III
*===============
~ tern. Shearing the loops at dif-
; ferent lengths sometimes pat-
: terns it. Some made with both
~ cut and uncut loops in the form
~ of a pattern.
; Upholstery, also used widely as
: transportation fabric by rail-
~ roads, buses, and airplanes.
.I _ froIsons
~ the first waste obtained in the
; process of reeling silk cocoons.
~ It is composed of the tangled
: beginning of the silk filament
~ that is removed by the reeler
; up to the point when the fila-
: ment begins to reel properly.
I
: - fugitive tint
I
: a colourant for application to
~ textile materials for their
; identification during han-
: dling. The colourant must be
~ removed easily during normal
~ textile scouring or dyeing pro-
; cedures.
; - fuji
~ a lightweight, plain weave fabric
: originally of silk but now usually
~ of polyester bi-component yarn
; which gives the appearance of a
: subtle texture on the surface.
~ Used in blouses, dresses.
112 fuftette Igabardine II
========*
• fujiette ~ and garments that are shaped
a medium weight fabric with a I wholly or in part by widening
fllament yarn warp and a spun ~ and/or narr?wing by loop trans-
yarn weft. Usually it has a fme : ference to mcrease or decrease
crosswise rib. Commonly found ~ the number of Wales.
in rayon and blends of acetate ; • fusible
and rayon. Used in blouses,
~
refers to a fabric, usually a non
dresses.
; woven, that can be bonded to
• full cardigan : another fabric with heat and
a variation of a lxl rib stitch ~ pressure. Used as interlinings
with 2 sets of needles there is ~ t? give body and shape to a fab-
alternate knitting and tucking I nco
on one course then tucking and : • fustian
knitting on the next course. The I cotton or cotton with linen or
I
: flax. It was used for undergar-
I ments and linings.

fabric has the same look on
both sides as every wale on both
sides has both a held loop and a
tuck loop. Also called polka rib.
• full-fashioned
terms applied to knitted fabrics
I • gabardine
I 1. a tightly woven, twilled, wor-
sted fabric with a slight diago-
nalline on the right side. Wool
I gabardine is known as a year-
round fabric for business suit-
ing. Polyester, cotton, rayon,
and various blends are also used
I in making gabardine.
I 2. clear finish, tightly woven,
firm, durable, rather lustrous.
I Can be given a dull fmish. Has
I a single diagonal line on the
face, raised twill. Wears ex-
tremely well. Also comes in

II = = = = = = = = 1 i : X t U e
 textilestudycenter.com

II gait (flax) IgllS fume foding 113

*================
various weights. Inclined to ~ worn in the mid 17th century
shine with wear. Men and ; in the hair and attached to the
women tailored suits, coats, : garments in various places.
I
raincoats, uniforms, and men's : _ galatea
shirts. I
: a durable, warp faced, left
- gait (flax) ~ handed twill fabric often found
a large handful of loose, pulled I in white and stripes. Used in
flax, stood up on end in a cone ~ children's wear, uniforms.
form to dry.
~ - galloon
- gait (lace machines) : lace.
I
1. the distance between the cen-
: - gamla buti
tres of adjacent comb blades, I
: a popular motif in textile design
2. a measure of the distance
~ in India, consisting of flowers
over which a thread is moved.
I of different kinds growing in a
- gait (weaving) ~ flowerpot, neatly arranged.
a full repeat of the draft in the ~ - gamma value
healds, or in the case of jac-
~ the mean number of xanthate
quard, in one complete row of
: groups per 100 glucose residues
the harness.
I in cellulose xanthate.
- gait up (weaving)
~ - garters
general terms used to describe
~ ribbon tied around the leg to
the positioning of the warp,
; hold up the stockings.
healds, and reed in a loom, in
readiness for weaving. Where ; - gas fume fading
drop wires are mounted on the ~ an irreversible change in hue
warp during warp preparation, : which occurs when textiles, par-
gaiting also includes the posi- ~ ticularly cellulose ethanoate (
tioning of the drop wires. ; acetate) and triethanoate (triac-
- galants or gallants : etate) dyed with certain blue
~ anthraquinone disperse dyes
small ribbon bows which were

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
114
~~~~~~~=*
are exposed to oxides of nitro-
gen which arise from, for ex-
ample, gas or storage heaters.
• gassed yam
a yarn that has been passed
through a flame or over a
heated element to remove sur-
face -fibres.
• gating (knitting)
the relative alignment of 2 sets
of knitting elements e.g.,
needles, on knitting machines.
Two forms of needle gating (rib
and interlock) are common and
may be interchangeable on the
same machine. Types of gating
are: (a) interlock gating: inter-
lock gaiting (knitting), the op-
posed alignment of one set of
needles with the other on a
knitting machine. (b) purl gat-
ing: purl gaiting (knitting), the
opposed alignment of tricks of
two needle beds lying in the
same plane, on a machine
equipped with double-headed
needles. (c) rib gating: rib gait-
ing (knitting), the alternate
alignment of one set of needles
with the other on a machine
equipped with two sets of
needles arranged to knit rib fab-
II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
gassedyam Igear-crimpetlyam II
I ncs.
I
• gauge
I a measurement most commonly
I associated with knitting equip-
ment. It can mean the number
of needles per inch in a knitting
I machine. However, in full-fash-
ioned hosiery and sweater ma-
chines, the number of needles
I per 11/2 inches represents the
I gauge.
I • gauze
a thin, sheer plain-weave fabric
made from cotton, wool, silk,
I rayon, or other manufactured
I fibres. End-uses include cur-
tains, apparel, trimmings, and
surgical dressings.
~ • gauze weaving
I
: a term commonly used as a syn-
~ onym for leno weaving, strictly,
I a method of producing the sim-
; pIer types of light-weight fab-
I ric by leno weaving.
I • gauze/cheesecloth
I a loosely woven, thin, sheer,
I plain weave fabric usually cot-
ton.
I
; • gear-crimped yam
a form of textured yarn m

II gel dyeing Igeometric
which the heated yarn IS
passed between a pair of gear
wheels or through some simi-
1ar device.
• gel dyeing
a continuous tow dyeing
method in which soluble dyes
are applied to wet-spun fibres
(e.g., acrylic or modacrylic fi-
bres) in the gel state (i.e., af-
ter extrusion and coagulation,
but before drawing and dry-
ing).
• genappe yarn
a gassed worsted yarn.
• generic name
when used here a name to dis-
tinguish different classes of
textile fibre. For natural fi-
bres, distinguishing attribute
is the fibre source, for man-
made fibres (see fibre, man-
made) chemical difference,
which often results in distinc-
tive property differences, is
the main basis for classifica-
tion: other attributes are in-
cluded where necessary. Ge-
neric names are ~ormally used
as adjectives, are descriptive
of the nature of the fibre or
filament components of the
1extile======11
textilestudycenter.com
115
~ associated object (yarn, top,
; sliver, fabric, garment, etc).
: The attributes used for speci-
~ fication of the generic names
I of man-made fibres are how-
; ever not necessarily identical
: with the attributes used for
~ naming chemical molecules,
I the international organisation
~ for standardisation has pub-
: lished, a list of the generic
I names and definitions of the
; different categories of man-
: made fibres at present manu-
~ factured on industrial scale for
I textile and other purposes.
~ These definitions and catego-
: ries are used throughout this
~ publication where possible.
; • geometric
:
~ refers to designs dominated by
; relatively simple, clearly defmed
~ geometric shapes.
I
I
t
I
I
116
=================*
• georgette
1. a sheer lightweight fabric,
often made of silk or from such
manufactured fibres as polyes-
ter, with a crepe surface. End-
uses include dresses and
blouses.
2. a lightweight, plain weave,
crepe fabric with a pebbly tex-
ture and slightly raspy hand.
uses high twist yarns which al-
ternate between S and Z twist
every thread or 2 in both warp
and weft.
• georgette crepe
lightweight, heavy, sheer fabric.
Has quite a bit of stiffness and
body. Gives excellent wear. Has
a dull, crinkled surface.
Achieved by alternating sand z
yarns in a high twist in both
warp and filling directions.
Georgette has a harder, duller,
more crinkled feel and appear-
ance than crepe de chine.
• geotextiles
manufactured fibre materials
made into a variety of fabric
constructions, and used in a va-
riety civil engineering applica-
·tions.
'-II======7baiU
geQrgette Igill box II
I • ghaghra
I skirt, usually with a great deal
of flare. The simple ghaghra has
only one vertical seam, which
turns the cloth or 'ghaghra-pata'
I into a tube, fastened . with a
drawstring passing through a
long, narrow slot at the waist.
I Flared ghaghras are made up
I of, several triangular gored
pieces stitched together.
• gherdar
I
flared with an ample skirt, as
I in a gherdarjama.
I • ghundi
I loop, generally used to hold the
I little button-like boss called the
tukma.
I
• ghutanna
a short paoan, worn by men,
I tight and ending just below the
I knees. Much favoured in 19th
century Sikh.
• gigging
the process of raising a nap on
I fabrics by means of a teasle
I machine.
I • gill box
I a drafting machine, used in

II gilling Iglassfibre
worsted processing, in which
the motion of the fibres is in
part controlled by pins fixed on
moving bars (pinned fallers).
• gilling
a system of drafting in which the
direction of the fibres relative
to one another in a sliver is con-
trolled by pins.
• gin
a machine used to remove seeds
and to clean dirt from cotton as
it comes from the field.
• gin cut cotton
cotton that has been damaged
in ginning by the cutting saws
to the extent that its value is
reduced.
.gingham
1. a medium weight, plain
weave fabric with a plaid or
check pattern. End-uses include
dresses, shirts, and curtains.
2. a plain-weave, light-weight
cotton fabric, approximately
square in construction, in which
dyed yarns, or white and dyed
yarns, form small checks or, less
usually, narrow stripes. If fibres
other than cotton are used the
term should be suitably quali-
Te:&tile========
textilestudycenter.com
117
*================
~ fied (e.g. viscose rayon ging-
; ham).
~ 3. medium or fine yarns of
: varying quality are used to ob-
~ tain the checks, plaids, stripes,
; and plain effects. The cloth is
: yarn dyed or printed. The warp
~ and the filling are usually bal-
I anced and if checks of two
; colours, usually same sequence
: in both the warp and the filling,
~ it is strong, substantial, and ser-
; viceable. It launders but low
~ textured, cheap fabric may
: shrink considerably unless pre-
~ shrunk. Has a soft, dull lustre
; surface. Tissue or zephyr ging-
: hams are sheer being woven
~ with finer yarns and a higher
I thread count.
; For example are dresses,
: blouses, for both women and
~ children, trimmings, handker-
I chiefs, aprons, beach wear, cur-
~ tains, bedspreads, and pyjamas.
~ • ginning
: a process that removes cotton
~ fibres (lint) from the seed.
I
: • glass fibre
~ an inorganic fibre which is very
I strong, but has poor flexibility
~ and poor abrasion resistance.
II
118
==---------=======*
Glass will not burn and will not
conduct electricity. It is imper-
vious to insects, mildew, and
sunlight. Today, the primary use
of glass fibre is in such indus-
trial applications as insulation
or reinforcement of composite
structures.
• glaze
to produce a smooth, glossy,
plane surface on a fabric by heat,
heavy pressure, or friction, glaz-
ing may be produced intention-
ally, e.g., by friction calendaring,
or as a fault.
• glen plaid (also called glen
urquhart)
a popular Scottish district check
made of elements of hounds
tooth and guard's check often
with a fme line over plaid in a
contrasting colour.
• glove silk
made on a warp knitted frame.
Very fmely knit but very strong.
Now called nylon simplex. For
example are gloves and under-
wear.
• gossypium
the generic name of the cotton
plant.
II = = = = = = = = T e : a i l e
glaze Igreasewool "
I • gota
I narrow ribbon made of'gold' or
'silver' thread.
I • graft copolymer
a copolymer formed when se-
quences of one repeating unit
I are built as side branches onto
I a backbone polymer derived
from another repeating unit.
I
I
• gr~ polymerisation
the production of a branched
macro-molecule, with a high
I molecular weight backbone of
one polymeric species, to which
a second polymer is attached
I (grafted) at intervals.
• grain
I another word used for the
I length wise (weft yarn) or
cross-wise (warp yarn) threads
of the fabric.
• grass 'bleaching
I a process for bleaching linen
I cloth after it has been washed
by exposing it, while spread our
on a grass lawn or field known
I as a green, to the action of the
elements.
I • grease wool
sheep's wool still containing the
 textilestudycenter.com

II greasy piece Igrinding roll 119

natural grease.
• greasy piece
a piece of woollen fabric as it
comes from the loom.
*================
~ has been given to them. Some
; of these fabrics, however, may
: contain dyed or ftnished yams.
~ In some countries, particularly
I in the North American conti-

• green flax (obsolescent) ; nent, the term greige is used for

scutched flax produced from : woven goods, the term loom
deseeded straw without any in- ~ state is frequently used as an
termediate treatment such as ; alternative. In the linen and lace
retting. ~ trades, the term brown goods
: are used.
• greige I
: • grey scale
fabric that has not been
bleached, dyed or ftnished after ~ a series of pairs of neutrally
production if woven sometimes ~ coloured chips, showing in-
called loom state. ; creasing contrast within pairs,
: used visually to assess con-
• greige goods ~ trasts between other pairs of
an unfinished fabric, just re- ; patterns: for example the (in-
moved from a knitting machine : ternational organisation for
or a loom. Also called grey ~ standardisation) grey scales
goods. ~ comprise two series of chips

• grenadine ; against which the magnitude

: of the change in colour of a
a leno weave fabric with high ~ specimen submitted to a fast-
twist yarns often with woven in I ness test and of staining of ad-
stripes, checks. or other patterns. ~ jacent uncoloured material
Used for dresses, blouses cur- : can be visually assessed and
tains. I rated on a 1-5 scale.

• grey goods ~ • grinding (rag)

woven or knitted fabrics as they ~ a local term for pulling.
leave the loom or knitting ma-
chine, i.e., before any bleaching, ~ • grinding roll
dyeing or fmishing treatment I a device used to sharpen the wire

T h x t i l e = = = = = = II
120
=====~==.
teeth on the cylinders and flats
of carding machines.
• gros point
also known as point 'de venise
and venetian lace', very expen-
sive heavy lace from Venice,
the most fashionable material
for cravats among aristocrats
and royalty in the 17th century.
The lace was usually held to-
gether with a ribbon or cra-
vat string, or sewn into a pre-
formed bow and fall because
it was too heavy to be tied ac-
curately.
• grosgrain
a fIrm, tightly woven fabric with
a heavy; pronounced, crosswise
rib. Used for neckties , millinery;,
trim. The term often describes
ribbon but may be a full width
fabric as well.
• guanaco
indigenous to Southern Argen-
tina. Produced fleece of the
most glorious natural honey
beige colour.
• guard hairs
fibres which project beyond the
under-coat of some mammals.
They are usually coarser than
11=======Textile
gros point I habit II
I under-coat fIbres.
I • 1ace
• gwpure
I a needlepoint lace.made with a
I heavy buttonhole stitch and
with the pattern on a coarse
mesh or held together with con-
I necting threads.
I • gum waste
I waste comprising all broken
silk threads that have been dis-
carded during reeling, or at the
I inspection of the skeins, and
I that have not undergone any
further processing.
• gum-sericin
a gelatinous protein, usually
I ..
compnsmg 20% to 30% by
I mass of raw silk, cementing the
two fIbroin fIlaments (brins) in
a silk fIbre (bave).
• gunny
a strong, coarse, plain weave
I fabric usually of jute. Used for
baling and sacks.
• habit
in the 17th century it meant for
men the suit of clothes all in the
I same cloth or colour. The court
I habit in the 17th and 18th cen-
turies meant men's clothes, and
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II habutai I hairy 121

*===============
the grand habit women's, worn ~ this definition implies a distinc-
only at court and at festivities ; tion between sheep's wool and
where the court was present. : the covering of other animals,
~ notwithstanding the similarity in
• habutai I their fibre characteristics. Thus

very light weight and soft, a ~ the crimped form and the scaly
little heavier than china silk, but : surface are not confined to
similar. Sold by weight measure ~ sheep's wool. It seems desirable
known 'momme' (1 momme = ; in the textile industry, however,
3.75 g). Made from waste silk : to avoid ambiguity by confining
that can be twisted. It is piece ~ the term wool to the covering or
dyed or printed and sized. Has ~ sheep and to have available a
many defects in the cloth, which ; general term for other fibres of
has a 'shot-about' appearance, : animal origin. Normally the less
but this does not affect the cloth. ~ widely used fibres are known by
Comes from Japan, originally; name e.g., alpaca, mohair, etc,
woven in the gum on Japanese : but collectively they should be
hand looms. Lighter than ~ classed as hair. A difficulty arises
shantung but heavier than silk. ~ when it is desired to distinguish
For example are dresses, coats, ; between the fibres of the under-
shirting, lampshades, lingerie, : coat and the remainder of the
and curtains. ~ fleece, for instance, between the
h kr ; soft short camel hair used for
• ac mg : blankets and the coarse long
a process in which stricks of ~ camel hair used for belting. The
scutched flax are combed from ~ term wool is sometimes used for
end to end, both to remove ; the shorter fibre, qualified by the
short fibre, naps (or neps), and .. name 0 f the arum . al,e.g., cash -
non-fibrous material, and to I I
: mere woo.
sub-divide and parallelise the
fibre strands. I
: . h'atry
• hair ~ refers to fabrics with a lot of
; protruding fibres on the sur-
animal fibre other than sheep's
wool or silk. It is recognised that
~ face.
I
Textile=======1
122 hid/cardiglln I hllrness II
========*
• half cardigan · .hank
a variation of a IxI rib stitch ~ I. a synonym for skein. Textile
with knitting & tucking in al- ; linear material in coiled form,
ternate courses on one set of : 2. a definite length of sliver,
needles. The construction on • slubbing, roving, or yarn, e.g.,
the back is the reverse of the • in the metric system it is 1000
face. • metres,
• hammered satin 3. a synonym for count as ap-
a satin fabric with an all over plied to sliver, slubbing, or rov...
surface texture that looks like • ing.
hammered metal. • • hank sizing
• hand I the application of size solution

the way the fabric feels when it • to yarn in hanks.

is touched. Terms like softness, ~ • hard
crispness, dryness, and silkiness describing fabrics with a firm,
are all terms that describe the ~ coarse hand.
hand of the fabric. • d.
: • har erung
• handkerchief linen •
treatment of man-made re-
a fme lightweight plain weave. generated-protein filaments
fabric of linen or a linen blend. so as to render them com-
Used in blouses, dresses pletelY insoluble in cold water
• handle • and cold dilute saline solu-
the quality of a fabric or yarn • tions.
assessed by the reaction ob- • • harlequin
tained from the sense of ~ a design motif dominated by
touch. It is concerned with the : diamond shapes or checks in 3
subjective judgement of ~ or more contrasting colours as
roughness, smoothness,; in a harlequin costume.
harshness, pliability, thick-
I • harness
ness, etc.
• an assemblage of heddles

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IlhtJrness.frtune I heattmnsforprinted . . =========1=2=3

mounted on a harness frame ~ which an extruded yarn passes
that moves them all together. ; after leaving the spinneret, and
A separate harness is used for : whose surface speed determines
each group of warp ends that ~ the spin-stretch ratio.
must be moved independently I
: - haute couture
to weave a desired pattern.
~ high-fashion garments (of
- harness frame I which only a single price is pro-
a wooden or metal frame upon ~ duced) it's extravagant, it's ir-
which is suspended a series of : rational, it's unique and it's to-
cords or wires called heddles, ~ tally unaffordable.
each of which has a small eye ~ _ head Gute)
through which a warp end is
passed according to a prede- lone of a number of bunches of
termined design. Each har- ; raw jute forming a bale. The
ness frame is fastened to a : heads are each given a twist and
mechanism that raises and ~ folded over before being made
I into the bale.
Iowers it in proper sequence .
to form the sheds through ; _ heat setting
w~ich the shuttle carries the ~ the process of conferring stabil-
filling yarn to produce cloth of
: ity of form upon fibres yarns
a specI°fiIed pattern. :I or fabrics, usually by means
'
of,
- Harris tweed ~ successive heating and cooling
a woollen tweed fabric hand ; in moist or dry conditions.
woven on the outer Hebrides ; _ heat transfer printed
~ a method of printing fabric by
islands off the coast of Scotland.
(Harris is one of these islands).
: transferring a design from a
It is genuine Harris tweeds are ~ paper to fabric by passing them
certified by the Harris Tweed ; together through heated rollers
association. : or a heated press. Also called
- haul-off roller ~ sublistatic printing or sublima-
the first driven roller around ~ tion printing.

° ThmIe======11
124
========~.
• heather
a yarn that is spun using pre- I
dyed fibres. These fibres are
blended together to give a par-
ticular look. (For example, I
black and white may be blended.
together to create a grey
heather yarn.). The term, •
heather, may also be used to •
describe the fabric made from
heather yarns.
• heddle
a fibre or metal strand, pierced
with a hole (eye) , through which •
the warp end it controls is •
threaded.
• hemp
1. a coarse, durable baste fibre
obtained from the inner bark of
the hemp plant. Used primarily
in twines and cordages, and
most recently apparel.
2. hemp is a baste fibre that
was probably used first in
Asia. The fibre is dark tan or
brown and is difficult to
bleach, but it can be dyed
bright and dark colours. The
hemp fibres vary widely in
length, depending upon their
ultimate use. Industrial fibres
II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
heather I herringbone II
I may be several inches long,
while fibres used for domes-
tic textiles are about 3/4 inch
to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.54 cm)
long. The elongation (1 to 6
percent) is low and its elastic-
ity poor. The thermal reac-
tions of hemp and the effect
of sunlight are the same as for
cotton. Hemp is moth resis-
tant, but it is not impervious
I to mildew. Coarse hemp fi-
• bres and yarns are woven into
cordage, rope, sacking and
heavy-duty tarpaulins. In
Italy, fine hemp fibres are
used for interior design and
apparel fabrics.
• henequen
~ the fibre obtained from the leaf
• of agava fourcroydes lemaire,
which is native to Mexico. It is
produced by mechanically deco-
• rticating the leaves into strands
• from 4 to 5 feet.
• • herringbone
a variation on the twill weave
•
construction in which the twill
I
is reversed, or broken, at regu-
I lar intervals, producing a zigzag
effect.
•
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II higl1chargedsystem I hologfoam 125

*================
• high charged system ~ or more different widths.
a method of dry cleaning in ~ • high-bulk yarn
which an oil-soluble reagent ~ a yarn that has been treated
such as petroleum sulphonate ; mechanically, physically or
is added to the solvent so that : chemically so as to have a no-
a Significdadntdamount .of water ~ ticeably greater voluminosity
can be a e to obtam a sub-; bulk
stantially clear dispersion of : or .
water in the solvent. In a high- ~ • hi~h-~peed spinning (melt
charged system the concentra-; spmnmg) •
tion of added reagent, a so- : a melt spinning process in which
I
called detergent is 4% while, : ftlaments are drawn down abd
in a low-charged system the ~ collected at high speeds.
concentration ranges from I • hog wool
%% to 2%.
I the first clip from a sheep not
• high count ~ shorn as a lamb, also termed tag
refers to fabrics woven with a : wool.
relatively high thread count, I
: • Holland shade cloth
resulting in a dense, tight fab-
nco ~ a plain weave fabric similar to
~ sheeting with a stiff sometimes
• high twist ; glazed finish. Often of linen or
refers to yarn that are manufac- : cotton.
tured with a relatively high I
: • hollow filament
number of turns per inch. This I
may be done to increase the : a man-made fibre continuous
yarn strength or to give the fab- ~ ftlament or fibre with a single
ric a crepe texture or hand. ; continuous lumen.

• high/low ; • hologram
1. pile fabrics that have varia- ; a three dimensional effect pro-
tion in pile height : duced with a laser that changes
2. a corduroy with Wales of 2 ~ with the angle of view and re-

Textile======== II
126
========*
flects light in a striking way .
Often printed on reflective ma-
terial.
• homespun
coarse, rugged yarn is used.
Originally an undyed woollen
cloth spun into yarn and wo-
ven in the home, by peasants
and country folk the world
over. Has substantial appear-
ance and serviceable qualities.
Made with irregular, slightly
twisted uneven yarns. Has a
spongy feel with a hand-
loomed tweedy appearance.
Genuine homespun is pro-
duced in a very limited quan-
tity and much power loom
cloth is sold as genuine home-
spun. Many qualities made the
best is an ideal rough -and -
ready type of cloth.
• homopolymer
a polymer in which the repeat-
ing units are all the same (cf.
copolymer) .
• Honan
a high quality, plain weave
pongee fabric made with wild
silk from Henan in Eastern
China. The best grade of wild
11======1i:m1e
humespun I hopstu:king II
I silk, similar to 'pongee' but
I finer, made from wild silk-
worms raised in the Honan
area of China. The only wild
I type that gives even dyeing
results.
I • honeycomb
a pique fabric with a waIDe or
cellular appearance. May be
I woven or knit.
I • honeydew
I theresultofinfestationofgrow-
I ing cotton by aphids of white-
fly. It takes the form of more
or less randomly distributed
I droplets of highly concentrated
I sugars, causing cotton sticki-
ness.
• hoop cutter
I
a hand tool, resembling a
I large pair of pliers, which is
I used to cut the metal ties of
cotton bales.
• hopsacking
wool, worsted, cotton, linen,
rayon, silk, hem, jute. In wool
I and worsted 2 x 2 basket usu-
I ally or novelty basket to re-
semble hopsack cloth. Made
I with coarse yarn. Has a rather

II hose(narrowfobric) I hottenrt1thnumb;=========1=2=7
rough texture and quite du-
rable.
- hose (narrow fabric)
a tubular woven fabric for con- I
veying liquid under pressure.
Hose is manufactured in both
unlined and lined forms. I
When unlined, the weave is
plain and the material is gen-
erally flax or hemp with a I
weaving density so arranged ;
that when the fibres swell on ~
wetting, the fabric becomes :
tight enough to reduce perco- ~
lation under pressure to a neg- ;
ligible amount. For lined
hose, fibres other than flax or ;
hemp may be used in a 'plain I
or twill weave. Lightweight:
hose woven from synthetic ~
yams may incorporate an in- ;
dependent tubular plastic lin- ~
ing, which is introduced. : _ hottenroth number
- hosiery
1. knitted coverings for the feet
and legs,
2. formerly in the UK, the
term was used in the generic
sense of all types of knitted
fabrics and, goods made up
there from.
T~le========11
textilestudycenter.com
I
- hosiery knitting machine
a knitting machine for the pro-
duction of hosiery. Most are
small-diameter latch-needle cir-
cular knitting machines.
- hot drawing (synthetic
filaments and films)
a term applied to the drawing
of synthetic ftlaments or fIlms
with the intentional application
of external heat.
I
: a measure of the degree of rip-
~ ening of viscose a hottenroth
I number is expressed as the
:I number of millilitres of 10%
: ammonium chloride solution
~ that it is necessary to add to a
; somewhat diluted viscose (so-
: lution) to induce incipient co-
~ agulation under standard con-
I ditions.
128 hounds tooth check I Uudryun "
========*
• hounds tooth check ~ effect in certain areas .
a variation on the twill weave ~ • hue
construction in which a broken ; that attribute of colour whereby
check effect is produced by a : it is recognized as being pre-
· I
variation in the pattern 0 f mter- : dominantly red, green, blue,
lacing yarns, utilising at least ~ yellow, violet, brown, Bor-
two different coloured yarns. ; deaux, etc .
• hounds tooth
; • humidifier
a pointed broken check design.
; a device that vaporizes water
Most commonly a woven pro-
: and sprays it into the atmo-
duced with contrasting yarns in
~ sphere in order to increase the
groups or multiples of 4, wo-
I amount of moisture in the air.
ven in 2x2 twill.
I •husks (silk)
• huckaback ~ silk waste remaining on cocoons
1. a soft towelling fabric with : at the bottom of the basin after
short, loosely twisted filling ~ reeling.
floats to aid absorption, and a I dr hili" fib
.. -C.
birds eye or honeycomb SWlace • • hy
; op c res .
texture. It is sometimes em - : fibres that absorb water easily,
broidered. ~ take longer to dry, and require
2. it is strong, rough in the sur- ; more ironing.
face fmish but fmer, shinie~ ~an ~ • hygral expansion
cotton huckaback, has VarIatiOn : the reversible changes in length
in weaves but most have small ~ and width of fabrics containing
squares on the surface that I hygroscopic fibres as a result
stand out from the background,: h . gam
'
comes in white, colours, or :Icangesmre .
coloured borders and also I • iaedryun
stripes. The motif is made from : a short jacket, often richly em-
a series of floats, some of them broidered, worn mostly in
rather long, which·gives a loose I Kutch and Saurashtra, in coni-

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II iIu# I iruligo & werprinted 129
*~~~~~~~==

bination with an embroidered ~ disease or through plant senil-

pyjama. ; ity, or occasionally because of
: the genetic nature of the vari-
-ikat
~ ety, the secondary-wall thicken-
term ap~lied t? the r~sist-dye ~ ing may first be delayed and
process m whIch desIgns are . then proceed at a reduced rate
reserv.ed in warp or weft yarns ~ or wall development may cease
by tym~ off small bun~les of ~ prematurely: the ripened boil
y'ar~ with p~lm-Ieaf stnps or ; will contain a high proportion
similar matenal to prevent pen- : of developed immature fibres
etration of dye from the Indo- t
nesian Mengikat, 'to tie' or 'to :t - indiennes
bind'. : in the 17th and 18th centuries
~. the name given to all eastern
- illusion
~ painted and printed cloths,
a very fme sheer net fabric usu- ; whatever their country of ori-
ally of nylon or silk. Very fme, : gin.
all-silk tulle, which originated in t
France. It has a cobweb appear- :t - indigo
ance. For example veiling, par- : a type of blue dyestuff originally
ticularly for weddings, and trim- ~ obtained from the indigo plant
mmgs. ; but now produced synthetically,
: used for denim.
- imberline t

a woven fabric with various t - indigo & colour

:
coloured stripes in the warp of- : refers to yarn dyed fabrics us-
a
ten separated by gold thread. ~ ing combinations of indigo
used in upholstery, drapery. ; dyed yarns and yarns of other
~ colours together in the design.
- immature cotton
cotton in which the thickening ~ - indigo & overprinted
of the fibre wall is appreciably : refers to printing done on an
less than usual, note. If growth ~ indigo denim, indigo chambray,
conditions are not favourable, ~ or indigo dyed fabric.
possibly as a result of attack by

ThmI#======11
130
~~~~~~~=.
• indigo dyed ~ woolsey in the 18th and early
refers to a fabric which has been i 19th centuries.
piece dyed with indigo dye. i • inspecting machine
• indirect warping i a machine which draws cloth
the transference of yam from a ~ ~ver a wide surface for. inspec-
package creel onto a swift from : ~on purposes and which par-
which it is subsequently wound ~ ~ally cleans the cloth by brush-
onto a beam. ; mg.
• ingrain (filament yarn) ~ • inspecting table
descriptive of a ftlament yarn ; an inclined. table ov~r which
composed of ftlaments of differ- : cloth to be mspected IS drawn
ent colours, the ingrain effect ~ by hand.
I • intarsia

I 1. weft-knitted plain, rib, or

; purl fabrics containing designs
: in two or more colours. Each
~ area of colour is knitted from a
I separate yam, which is con-
: tained entirely within that area,
~ 2. a motif design in stitch and/
I or colour

being produced by the random :
exposure of the differently ~
coloured fllaments at the yarn ;
surface.
• inkle, beggar's
a fabric constrUcted as linsey-
~ • interfacing
I fabrics used to support, rein-
; force and give shape to fashion
fabrics in sewn products. Often
placed between the lining and
the outer fabric, it can be made
: from yarns or directly from fi-
~ bres, and may be either woven,
~ non woven, or knitted. Some

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II inm'liningl irUiescmt 131
*~~==========~
interfacings are designed to be ~ knit constructions.
fused (adhered with heat from
~ - intermingled yarn
an iron), while others are
meant to be stitched to the fash- ~ a multifilament yarn in which
ion fabric. ; cohesion is imparted to the
: filament bundle by entwining
- interlining ~ the filaments instead of, or in
1. an insulation, padding, or I addition to, twisting. The ef-
stiffening fabric, either sewn ~ fect is usually achieved by
to the wrong side of the lin- : passing under light tension
ing or the inner side of the ~ through the turbulent wne of
outer shell fabric. The inter- ; an air-jet. Some manufactur-
lining is used primarily to pro- : ers describe such a product as
vide warmth in coats, jackets, ~ an interlaced yarn. Intermin-
and outerwear. ~ gling should be distinguished
2. anyone of a wide variety of ; from air texturing in which a
fabrics used between the in- : much higher level of entangle-
ner and outer layers of a gar- ~ ment is achieved with the ob-
ment to improve shape reten- ~ jective of producing texture or
tion, strength, warmth or ; bulk.
bulk. Interlining may be of : _ intermingling jet
woven, knitted, or non woven ~ . d d· d
material and may be produced ; an arr-~erate eVlce use as
with or without a fusible ad- : ar;
anc ary to. somel~oc~ses
hesive coating. ~ 0 yam extrusIOn, 0 rawmg
; and texturing to induce inter-
- interlock : mingling.
I
the stitch variation of the rib : - iridescent
stitch, which resembles two I
: a fabric with a changeable colour
separate 1 x 1 ribbed fabrics ~ effect depending on the angle
that are interknitted. Plain ; of view and lighting. It is usu-
(double knit) interlock stitch : ally the result of weaving with
fabrics are thicker, heavier, ~ one colour in the warp and an-
and more stable than single I other in the weft.

'J.b:rik======== II
132
~~~===========*
• Irish lace
refers to any lace made in Ire-
land. Most often they are cro-
chet or needlepoint laces.
• Irish lawn
a lawn fabric produced from
fme linen yarns.
• Irish linen
a woven fabric produced in Ire-
land from 100% flax yam.
• Irish poplin
a poplin made from a dyed pure
silk organise warp and a three-
fold genapped fine worsted
weft. It is a silk-face and -back
fabric, the weft being com-
pletely covered by the warp.
The fabric is usually hand-wo-
ven and is frequently given a
moire fmish.
• ixtle
it is strong, rough in the surface
finish but fmer, shinier than cot- I
ton huckaback. Has variation in I
weaves but most have small
squares on the surface that
stand out from the background. I
Comes in white, colours, or
coloured borders. The motif is .'
made from a series of floats, I
11======7ixriJe
Irish laee I jRelbout II
some of them rather long,
I which gives a loose effect in cer-
tain areas.
• izarband
drawstring at the waist for a
garment like the pyjama.
• jabot
I originally the term meant the
I neck opening of the chemise,
and its lace trimmings, show-
ing through the opening at the
I doublet. Early cravat of lace,
often ready-made, were worn
during the 17th century. The
I lace fell in a soft bunch to the
I upper chest and was either
knotted and draped or tied in a
soft bow.
I
• jackboot
over-knee high riding boot with
I square toes and low heel, made
from stiff leather.
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II jtu:lJU4rd Ijaspe 133

• jacquard
woven fabrics manufactured by
using the jacquard attachment
on the loom. This attachment
provides versatility in designs
and permits individual control
of each of the warp yarns. Thus,
fabrics of almost any type or
complexity can be made. Bro-
cade and damask are types of
jacquard woven fabrics.
. d kni
• Jacquar t :
a weft double knit fabric in
which a jacquard type of mecha-
*===============
~ • jama
.I full-sleeved outerwear for men,
; greatly popular at the Mughal
: and Rajput courts and worn
.~ well into the 19th century.
.
I • d .
: • Jam am
~ fme cotton muslin with a floral
I pattern brocaded in thick soft
~ cotton. Dacca was a famous
: centre for the production of fme
I jamdani work.
~ • janghia
~ short drawers, worn by men

nism is used. This device indi- ; and boys.

vidually controls needles or ~ • jaquard mechanism (weav-
small groups of needles, and ing)
allows very complex and highly I
: a shedding mechanism, at-
patterned knits to be created. ~ tached to a loom, that gives in-
• jacquard-card lacer ; dividual control of up to several
a machine which laces together : hundred warp threads and thus
in a pattern chain the perfo- ~ enables large figured designs to
I be produced. (named after the
rated cards that control the op-
eration of a jacquard loom in ~ inventor, Joseph Marie J ac-
weaving designs and patterns in : quard, 1752-1834).
I
cloth. : • jaspe
I
• jaffer : a woven fabric with a series of
a plain-weave cotton fabric ~ faint stripes formed by the ar-
with warp and weft in differ- ; rangement of light, medium,
ent colours producing a shot :I and
.
dark warp yarns or by twist-
effect. : mg together 2 yarns of differ-

II
134
~~~~~~~~=.
ent colours. Used for drapery, ~ printed designs. Can look very
upholstery, suiting, etc. i much like woven fabric wear
• jean ~ very well and if washable, it
: washes very well.
a 2/1 warp-faced twill fabric I
used chiefly for overalls or ca- • jersey fabric
sual wear. Typical cotton par- the consistent inter looping of
ticular 18's x 28's (32 x 21 tex), I yarns in the jersey stitch to pro-
90 x 60 (35 ends/cm x 24 picks/ duces a fabric with a smooth,
cm). flat face, and a more textured,
I but uniform back. Jersey fabrics
• jerkin I may be produced on either cir-
outer doublet worn in England cular or flat weft knitting ma-
in the late 16th and early 17th I chines.
centuries. It was sleeveless or
with loose sleeves. • jersey stitch
I a basic stitch used in weft knit-
• jersey
I ring, in which each loop formed
1. single knit fabric with an in the knit is identical. The jer-
intermeshing of stitches in the I sey stitch is also called the plain,
same direction on the face and I felt, or stockinet stitch.
a series of semicircular loops on
the back. I • jet craters

2. a general term referring to I annular deposits that some-

any knit fabric without a distinct I times form around the holes on
rib. the face of jets used in the ex-
3. right side has lengthwise ribs I trusion of viscose.
and wrong side has crosswise I • jet rings
ribs, very elastic with good drap- I annular deposits formed occa-
ing qualities, has special crease- I sionally inside the holes of metal
resistant qualities due to its con- : jets or spinnerets when used in
struction, is knitted plain or has ~ the extrusion of viscose, particu-
many elaborate tweed designs ~ larly into coagulants containing
and fancy motifs as well as ; much zinc sulphate.

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135
*==~~~~~~~
-jet spinning ~ -jhumb
a system of staple-fibre spin- ~ a covering for the head and
ning which utilises air to ap- ; body made simply by tying
ply the twisting couple to the : sheet or blanket at one end all...
I
yarn during its formation. The : draped over the head.
air is blown through small I • I

holes arranged tangentially to : - Jupe

the yarn surface and this ~ from the Arabic 'djuba', jacket.
causes the yarn to rotate. The ; Jupe had two meanings from
majority of systems using this ~ the Middle Ages on towards the
technique produce fascinated : mid 17th century, jacket and
yarns, but by using two air jets ~ skirt. Only in 1672 did the dic-
operating in opposing twist ; tionaries de l'academie francaise
directions it is possible to pro- : defme the term Jupe, 'part of
duce yarns with more con- ~ women's costume, from the
trolled properties but of more I waist to the feet.' The term had
complex structure. ~ disappeared by then from men's
: costume, except for the panels
- jet-dyeing machine ~ of certain garments. From the
1. a machine for dyeing fabric ; 1670s on Jupe corresponds with
in rope form in which the fab- : the modern meaning. In the
I
ric is carried through a narrow : 17th century women wore 3
throat by dye-liquor circulated I jupes one on top of the other
at a high velocity, ~ the modeste, a top skirt that
2. a machine for dyeing gar- : often trailed, the friponne in the
ments in which the garments ~ middle, which covered the
are circulated by jets of liquid ; secrete, the underskirt. The lat-
rather by mechanical means. : ter two reached the ground.
I

-jhabba
loose, tunic-like garment.
- jhula
a kind of blouse for children.
:I - justaucorps
: male coat developed in the sec-
~ ond half of the 17th century.
I Tight fitting in the shoulders,
; collarless and with flaring skirts

7i:Jaik======== II
136 jute liuJin buri II
=---------*
and knee-length. Th~ flare was I brown or grey colour, with a
extended and made wider until I silky lustre. It consists of
the early 18th century. Later the bundles of fibre held together
coat became narrow, cut away by gummy substances that are
in the front and sides, with a ~ pertinacious in character. It is
standing collar. (Second half of ; difficult to bleach completely,
18th century). so many fabrics are bright,
I dark, or natural brown in
• jute
I colour. Jute reacts to chemi-
1. a baste fibre, chiefly from cals in the same way as do cot-
India, used primarily for gunny I ton and flax. It has a good re-
sacks, bags, cordage, and bind- I sistance to microorganisms
ing threads in carpets and rugs. and insects. Moisture in-
2. the fibre obtained from the creases the speed of deterio-
baste layer of the plants I ration but dry jute will last for
corchorus capsularis and I a very long time. Jute works
corchorus olitorius. Commer- well for bagging, because it
cially, jute is divided into two does not extend and is some-
main classes, white jute gener- I what rough and coarse. This
ally being associated with tends to keep stacks of bags
corchorus capsularis, and dark in position and resist slippage.
jute with corchorus olitorius. I It is widely used in the manu-
Each of the above-noted classes I facture of linoleum and car-
is further sub-divided into nu- pets for backing or base fab-
merous grades denoting qual- nc.
ity and other characteristics.
• jute-spun
• jute and burlap
descriptive of staple yarn that
jute is used in textiles for in- I has been prepared and spun on
teriors, especially for wall I machinery originally designed
hangings and a group of : for spinning yarns from jute.
bright, homespun-effect .drap- .~ • k"" b ti"
aIrl u
eries and wall covenngs. I . . . .
Natural jute has a yellow to : a floral motif m Indian textile
I

11========Temte
 textilestudycenter.com

IlluUiWatttm I ~rchobi work 137

*================
design, based on the form of a ~ parts from excessive heat and
green mango with a light curve ; cold.
at the tip. ; .kapadu
• kalabatton ; cloth used to cover the breasts.
silver-gilt thread, used in em- : In Rajasthan and Gujarat a
broidery. ~ simple choli-blouse is some-
~ times referred to by this name.
• kalgha
a popular motif in Indian tex- ~ • kapok
tile design, broadly cypress- I 1. a short, lightweight, cotton-
shaped and curving to one sides :I like, vegetable fibre found in
at the top, crest. : the seed pods of the
I bombocaceae tree. Because of
.kali
; its brittle quality, it is generally
gore wedge-shaped, triangular : not spun. However, its buoy-
piece of cloth. ~ ancy and moisture resistance
• kalidar ghagra I makes it ideal for use in cush-
ghaghra made up of many ~ ions, mattresses, and life jack-
gored pieces and thus flared in : ets.
early Sanskrit literature. ~ 2. a unicellular seed hair ob-
I tained from the fruit pods of the
• kanjari ~ kapok tree eriodendron
blouse like garment, worn a : anfractuosum ( formerly
little long in front and generally ~ known as ceiba pentranda). The
backless, held together with tie- ; fibre is also called ceba, ceiba,
cords, with no shaped parts like : java cotton silk cotton, silk floss
cups. ~ etc. Indian kapok comes from
I bombax malabaricUffi.
• kantop
literally, 'topi, worn around I • karchobi work
the ears'. This kind of cap; worksimilarto'zardozi'inwhich
covers the ears and the back ~ gold or silver metal threads are
of the neck to protect these : sewn on to satin or velvet with

7 1 t x r i 1 e = = = = = = II
138 kRmis I knit II
=~~~~~~=.
metallic threads to yield the ef- ~ erally of wool or a wool blend
feet of true embroidery. ; with a fme lustrous nap, used
• kasnis :I for overcoats.
: 2. medium to heavy weight,
tie-cords or strings used for
~ similar to Melton and Beaver.
tightening.
; Well fulled in the fmishing with
• katoris ~ a rather lustrous nap caused by
cups, the word is used to de- : the use of lustrous crossbred
scribe breast-cups as in a choli ~ wools, gives good wear and is
or angIa. ; dressy looking. Blue, brown
: and black are the most popular
• kemp ~ colours.
a coarse animal fibre with a wide
~ • kimkhab
lattice-type medulla that is shed
from the skin at least once a ~ silk fabric brocaded with silver
year, it is often shorter than ; and gold. The metal thread used
other fibres of the fleece , has a :I for brocading is made from a
long tapering tip, and, when : fme strand of flattened metal
completely shed, tapers sharply ~ wound over a core of silk, us-
towards the root end. ; ing yellow silk under gold, and
: white silk under silver.
• kenaf I

the fibre obtained from the ~ • kneeing

baste layer of the plant hibiscus : an unstable condition arising in
cannabinus. I melt-spinning wherein the

I. kenaf is commonly known as I extrudate forms an inflexion on

mesta in India, leaving the spinneret instead of
2. being similar to jute in many drawing down directly from the
of its properties, kenaf is used ~ orifice. The mo~ten filam~nt
either as an alternative to, or in I thus has a Ia:ee-like shape Just
admixture with, jute. : below the orifice .
• knit
• kersey
to form a fabric by the
1. a fulled, woven fabric, gen-

11========7Qmle

II bitfobrics I kurtR.
intermeshing of loops of yarn. ~ knots in yarn at various stages
• knit fabrics I of manufacture.
fabrics made from only one ; • kodel
set of yarns, all running in the
same direction. Some knits
have their yarns running
along the length of the fab-
ric, while others have looping
the yarns around each other
holds their yarns running
across the width of the fab-
ric, knit fabrics together.
Knitting creates ridges in the
resulting fabric.
• knit-de-knit
a type of yarn texturising in
which a crimped yarn is made
by knitting the yarn into a fab-
ric, and then heat-setting the
fabric. The yarn is then
unravelled from the fabric and
used in this permanently
crinkled form.
• knitwear
a term applied in the generic
sense to all knitted outer gar-
ments except stockings and
socks.
• knotter
an automatic device for tying
Thmk=================================== II
textilestudycenter.com
139
*================
; a brand of polyester, trademark
: of the Eastman chemical com-
I
: pany.
~ • kontush
~ generously cut caftan-shaped
I mantle worn in Poland. The
~ term passed to Germany and
: the Nordic countries where it
~ referred to women's gowns,
; robes volantes or gowns a la
: francaise worn in the 18th cen-
I
: tury.
~ • kurdi
~ a jacket or coat meant for out-
; erwear. The garment popular
: under this name in Persia was
I .
: known m India as a nadiji.
I
: - kurta
~ variously described in the dic-
~ tionaries as 'a tunic, waist coat,
; jacket, shirt', the kurta became
: popular in the 18th and 19th
~ centuries essentially as a slightly
I loose-fitting garment for outer
: wear, often with a round neck
I '
: of knee-length or even longer,
~ with side-slits at the hem and
140
=========*
generally flared skirt. It ac-
quired great elegance as a gar-
ment in centres like Lucknow
and H yderabad.
• kurti.
a shirt-like garment, with most
of the f-eatures of a kurta, but
often worn a little shorter. when
worn by women, it is defmed
as 'a short bodice reaching to
the hips, with very short, if any,
sleeves, open under the throat'.
• labeda
a loose, tunic-like garment
worn by men, mostly in Nepal.
• lace ..
a fine openwork fabric with a
ground of mesh or net on which
patterns may be worked at the
same time as the ground is
rrmed or applied later, and
kum IIMne II
I which is made of yarn by loop-
I ing, twisting, or knitting, either
by hand with a needle or bob-
bin, or by machinery, also a
I similar fabric made by crochet-
ing, tatting, darning, embroi-
dering, weaving, or knitting.
I
: .lacing
I
the operation of uniting a series
I of jacquard cards to form the
I pattern chain that controls the
weaving of a jacquard loom .
• Lahore
a piece-dyed dress fabric made
I from cashmere in small dobby
I effects.
I • lamb's wool
I the first clip of wool sheered
from lambs up to eight months
old. The wool is soft, slippery
and resilient. It is used ill fme
grade woollen fabrics .
• lambskin cloth
a term particularly applied to a
heavily weft cotton fabric, with
I a dense pile of fibre on the SUf-
I face. The weave is of a weft-sa-
teen character.
I
• lame
a fabric woven or knit with
I
Textile

II iIImiMted I iIIp waste (wool)
*================
metallic yarns. It is usually gold ~
or silver in colour, used in ;
eveningwear. Silk or any textile :
fibre in which metallic threads :
are used in the warp or the fill- ~
ing. Lame is also a trademark ;
for metallic yarns.
-laminated
£: b . uall
a compound a rIC us y com- ~
prised of a .continuoush sheet 1of_..
thermoplastIc film suc as po y I
urethane or PVC bonded to a ~
base fabric with heat or adhesive.
- lampas
a multi-colour figured drapery
and upholstery fabric similar to
a brocade, made of silk, viscose
rayon, or combinations of
yams. Two warps, on~ forming
the ground and one-bmd wefts,
in regular or irregular order,
form the figure.
1. a sheet of fibres or fabric
wrapped round a core with
specific applications in differ-
ent sections of the industry,
e.g., sheets of fibre wound on
rollers or round endless
aprons to facilitate transfer
from one process to the next.
In cotton spinning, the sheets
'Iixtiu=----======
textilestudycenter.com
141
of fibre from openers and
scutchers, sliver-lap machines,
and ribbon-lap machines are
I
wound on cores.
2. an arrangement of the fi-
bre strands in scutched flax,
: pieced out for hackling, or in
~ pieces of hackled flax, to fa-
I cilitate their removal as sepa-
rate units from built-up
bundles. 3 . the Iength of f:ab ..
ric between successive trans-
verse folds when pieces are
~ plaited down or folded,
: 4. an individual layer of fabric
~ in roll form,
I 5. fibres wrapped accidentally
~ round any rotating machine
: part,
~ 6. silk waste after discharging
I and combing, but before pro-
~ cessing into sliver or top. The
: staple length of the fibre de-
~ creases between the first, sec-
; ond and third drafts.
; -lap stick
; a small metal rod, around which
: the wide sheet of cotton lap is
~ wound as it emerges from a tex-
I tile machine.
~ -lap waste (wool)
; a sheet of fibres accidentally
II
142 IR.sercut IIelJ (cotton) II
~~~~~~~=.
w~und roun~ roller~ or aprons. ~ solid coloured, or printed.
It IS substantially WIthout twist I 2. word derived from Laon a
andh may be city in France , where lin~n
.carded without fur- :
t I
er processmg. : lawn was manufactured exten-
• laser cut ~ sively. Light weight, sheer,
the process of cutting a design I soft, washable. It is crispier
into the fabric by using a nar- ~ than v~ile but no~ as crisp. as
row beam laser to vaporize the : organdie. Made WIth fme high
fabric. ~ count yarns, silky feel. Made
; with either carded or combed
• latent crimp : yarns. Comes in white or may
a crimp that is potentially ~ be dyed or printed. When
present in specially prepared fi- ~ made with combed yarns with
bres or fllaments and that can ; a soft feel and slight lustre it
be developed by a specific tteat- : is called nainsook. For ex-
ment such as thermal relaxation ~ ample underwear, dresses~
or .tensioning and subsequent ; blouses, night wear, curtains,
relaxation. : lingerie, collars, cuffs, infant
• latex ~ w~ar, shirting, and handker-
I chIefs.
natural and synthetic fibres are
made from this raw material. ~ • lawn finish
Natural Latex is a white milky ~ a medium-starch fmish applied
emulsion. ; to lawn and other fine-yarn
• lawn : plain fabrics to give a crisp fm-
I ished effect.
1. a light, fme cloth made us-
ing carded or combed, linen or ~ • lea (cotton)
cotton yarns. The fabric has a ~ in cotton, a length of 120
crease-resistant, crisp finish. ; yards, in worsted 80 yards, in
Linen lawn is synonymous : linen 300 yards. In cotton and
with handkerchief linen. Cot- ~ worsted these lengths are one-
ton lawn is a similar type of ; seventh of the standard hank. /
fabric, which can be white , :I It was less wasteful to count

II = = = = = = = ' I i x r i l e
 textilestudycenter.com
II U. (linen) IImgtb,fobrie 143
*================
leas per 1000 grains than ~ weaving is completed.
hanks per pound (7000 ~ • lease rod
grains).
~ a metal or wooden rod, which
• lea (linen) ; is inserted in the lease to pre-
the count of a flax -spun yarn, : vent the warp yarn from becom-
lea count-strength product, ~ ing tangled and to facilitate
break factor, the product of the ~ thread selection during dressing
lea strength, and the actual ~and twisting in.
count of cotton yarn.
~ .lehnga
• leader cloth ~ a kind of skirt worn generally
a strip of cloth left threaded : in combination with aI).
through a textile machine to ~ 'odhani', which is tucked into it
facilitate the starting of a new ; at the waist. Possibly derived
length through the machine. : from Sanskrit 'lanka', standing
I .
• leader strings (or threads) : for the waist, and 'anga' or
I limbs.
strands of yarn that are left
threaded through the various I
parts of a textile machine and I
to which new strands of yarn to
be processed are attached, thus
eliminating the necessity for I
threading the strands through
the machine each time a differ-
ent lot of yarn is to be pro- I
cessed .
• lease
~e arrangement of strands
adopted to keep all warp ~ • length, fabric
threads in the same relative ~ unless otherwise specified, the
position after warping until I usable length of a piece between
~ any truth marks, piece-ends, or

ThaiIe======11
144
========~*
numbering, when the fabric is lout of position. Also called the
measured laid flat on a table in I gauze weave. Leno weave fab-
the absence of tension. rics are frequently used for win-
aleno dow treatments, because their
. ~ structure gives good durability
refers to an open weave fabnc. ; with almost no yarn slippage,
In a leno wea:e th~ warp .Y~ .: and permits the passage of light
are arranged m parrs, twlStIng I and air.
or interlocking around the fill-
ing yarn to prevent slippage and I a letona
make the open weave stronger I a baste fibre obtained from the
and firmer. I plant agave letonae

a leno fabric I • letting off

a fabric in which warp threads
have been made to cross one
another, between the picks, dur-
ing weaving. The crossing of the
warp threads may be a general
feature of plain leno fabrics (as
marquisette and some gauzes
and muslins) or may be used in
combination with other weaves
(as in some cellular fabrics).
aleno weave
a construction of woven fabrics I
in which the resulting fabric is I
very sheer, yet durable. In this I
weave, two or more warp yarns
are twisted around each other I
as they are interlaced with the I
filling yarns, thus securing a
firm hold on the filling yarn and :
reventing them from slipping'
the turning of the loom beam
to unwind the warp as weaving
progresses.
I aleuco dye
I a reduced form of a dye from
I which the original dye may be
I
regenerated by oxidation.
a levelling
migration of dye leading to uni-
form colouration of a substrate.
a lever lace
lace made on a leavers machine.
The machine uses mechanically
controlled bobbins and is con-
trolled by a jacquard mecha-
nism. They can produce fme
delicate patterns that resemble
handmade laces.
 textilestudycenter.com

Illicker-in I linseed flax 145

*================
• licker-in ~ stem of the flax plant. Linen fi-

a roller, covered with coarse bres are much stronger and

;
wire teeth, that is located in the ~ more lustrous than cotton.
carding machine in such a posi- : Linen fabrics are very cool and
tion as to gradually draw in the ~ absorbent, but wrinkle very eas-
cotton from the feed rollers , ; ily, unless blended with manu-
partially open it, and pass it for- : factured fibres. Linen is one of
ward to the carding drum. ~ the oldest textile fibres.
I . lingene
: "
.limbric
a light- to- medium-weight, ~ feminine underwear, slumber
closely woven, plain-weave, cot- ; wear and similar garments of
ton fabric made from good- ~ fine texture and aesthetic ap-

quality yams. The weft is : peal. The term, derived from

coarser and more closely spaced ~ the French 'lin', referred origi-

and has a lower twist factor than
the warp giving a soft fabric in
which the weft predominates
on both sides (cf. casement
doth). A example was 50's x
36's (12 x 16 tex), both Egyp-
tian yams, 68 x 102 (27 ends/
cm x 40 picks/cm).
• limp
refers to a fabric that is very
drape and lacking in body.
• linear density
the mass per unit length of lin- : lining is made of a smooth lus-
ear textile material.
; nally to linen articles, especially
: ladies' underwear.
I
: • lingo
I
: that part of the shedding
~ mechanism sometimes called
; the weight. It is used for de-
: pressing one strand of warp in
I .
: a .Jacquard loom .
I . lini"ng
:
~ a fabric that is used to cover the
~ inside of a garment to provide
; a finished look. Generally, the
~ trous fabric.

• linen ~ • linseed flax

a fabric made from linen fibres ~ varieties of flax cultivated

obtained from inside the woody ; mainly for seed production.

Textile ====================== II
146
================*
• linsey-wolsey
1. a coarse linen fabric,
2. a strong, coarse fabric with a
linen warp and a worsted weft.
• lint
1. the main seed hair of the cot-
ton plant,
2. a plain-weave, highly absor-
bent material with one raised
fleecy surface. For surgical pur-
poses it is sterilised.
• lint ball
lint or fluff that has accumu-
lated on a knitting machine and
become incorporated in the fab-
nco
• linters
whole and broken lint fibres and
fuzz fibres, which are removed
from ginned cotton seed by a
special ginning process. The
first ginning of cotton removes
most of the lint fibres from the
ordinary raw cotton of com-
merce. The seed is then sub-
jected to a second processing on
a special gin to remove the lint-
ers, which are composed of a
small proportion of whole-lint
fibres, greater amounts of bro-
ken-lint fibres, and fuzz fibres
II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
linsey-wolsey I live spindle II
I that are much coarser and
I shorter than the lint. The re-
moval of lint and fuzz is not
completed by this operation
I and the residue may be succes-
sively re-ginned. The products
are termed 'first-cut linters'
I 'second -cut linters', etc, th~
I length of the fibres in each suc-
cessive cut becoming progres-
sively shorter.
• liquid ammonia treatment
a process during which textile
I material is immersed in or
brought into contact with anhy-
drous liquid ammonia. The
treatment confers 'flat setting',
I i.e., smooth drying properties
and an attractive soft handle to
I cotton fabrics.
I
• lisle thread
a highly twisted, plied (usually
I 2-ply) good quality cotton ho-
I siery yarn, spun generally in fine
counts. All lisle threads are
I gassed and some may be
I mercerised (mercerised lisle).
A lisle thread was formerly a
plied yarn having singles of op-
I posite twist.
I • live spindle
I a power-driven shaft that sup-
 textilestudycenter.com

II'la1tUJ I loose 147

*===============
ports and rotates a bobbin on ~ • loden cloth
which twisted yarn is wound. ~ wool or mixed-wool. Its name
• llama ; comes from the German word
: Loeia, which means haircloth. It
found mainly in south
~ was originally made exclusively
America. Colour may be from
I from wool but is now found in
white to brown and black. This
fibre has impressive lustre ~ a combination of wool with al-
: paca, mohair or camel. It is well
and warmth and is very light-
~ known for its thickness, dura-
weight.
; bility and resistance to water.
• loading
; • lofty
increasing the weight of fabrics
; a term applied to an assem-
by the addition of deliquescent
: blage of fibres to denote a rela-
salts, starch or china clay. This
term is not restricted to one ~ tivdy high degree of openness
class of textile fabrics, but is ~ and resilience, or a large volume
used loosely in connection with ; for a given mass.
fmishing of wool, cellulose, or :I • 100m
silk goods. : a machine used for weaving fab-
I .
• locks : ncs.
a term used in wool-sorting ~ • loom beam
for short oddments of wool
: ahlarg~ sp~ol on which warp,
I
which fall from the skirting
tables or are swe t u from ~ t at as een .arranged and
1... dIP P . I slashed for use m the loom is
the LJoar s. n some countnes . d '
it can include soiled tufts and ; woun .
pieces from near the rumps of : • loom-state
sheep. ~ any woven fabric as it leaves the
• loden ~ loom before it receives any sub-
I sequent processing.
coarse woollen milled water-
repellent fabric used for jackets, ; • loose
coats and capes. ; refers to a fabric that is not

T e x t i l e = = = = = = - - = - - = \I
148
=========*
tightly constructed and shifts
easily.
• lungi
a garment-piece worn by men,
as a long, straight skirt-cloth.
• lustre
the display of different inten- I
sities of light, reflected both I
specularly and diffusely from I
different parts of a surface ex-
posed to the same inci d ent I
light. High lustre is associated I
with gross differences of this
kind, and empirical measure- I
ments of lustre depend on the r
ratio of the intensities of re- I
fleeted light for specified I
angles of incidence and view-
ing .. This definition makes I
these differences in intensity I
of light the key point, since
this form the chief subjective :
impression on the observer of ~
lustre. Both specular and dif- ;
fuse light must be present to-
gether, for, if diffuse light only ~
is present, the surface is matt, I
not lustrous, whereas, if:
· h
specular 1Ig t only·IS present, :I
the surface is mirror-like, and I
again not lustrous. The phrase ~
'exposed to the same incident
II = = = = = = = = T h c t i l e
lungi I lyons velvet 1/
I light' has been included to
I rule out shadow effects, which
have no part in lustre proper.
The general term 'surface' is
I intended to apply to fibres,
yarns, and fabrics, and indeed
to other surfaces, e.g., that of
a pearl (through there the dif-
ferently reflecting parts are
very close together). In the
second sentence of the defini-
tion, lustre is regarded as a
positive function of the differ-
ences, the appropriate adjec-
tive of intensification being
'high'.
• lyocell fibre
a manufactured fibre composed
of regenerated cellulose. lyocell
has a similar hand and drape as
rayon, but is stronger, more
durable, and in many cases ma-
chine washable. it has a subtle
lustre and is rich in colour.
lyocell possesses low shrinkage
characteristics, as well as good
absorbency and wrinkle resis-
tant qualities.
• lyons velvet
a stiff, thick pile velvet used for
hats, coat collars, also for s~ts,
coats and dresses, when thick

II machine-washable I maline
velvets are fashionable.
• machine-washable
a term denoting that a textile
article can be washed in a do-
mestic washing machine to re-
move dirt and other extraneous
substances using an aqueous
detergent solution at elevated
temperatures.
• mackinaw
ordinary grade of wool and of-
ten has shoddy re-used or
remanufactured wool mixed in.
sometimes a cotton warp is
used.
Very heavily felled or felted and
napped on both sides to conceal
the weave. Much of the fabric
is in a plaid or large check de-
sign or brightly coloured, or
different colours on eat:h side.
Heavy and thick, very similar to
Melton. Used by miners, lum-
bermen, hunters, trappers, fish-
ermen, and cowboys use much
of the fabric for jackets, macki-
naws and coats.
• madapolam
a bleached or dyed plain cotton I
fabric with a soft finish in any ~ • maline
of a wide range of qualities used a fme hexagonal open mesh net
T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
textilestudycenter.com
149
*================
~ for ladies wear.
~ • Madras
~ 1. a lightweight plain weave
; cotton fabric with a striped,
: plaid, or checked pattern. True
~ Madras will bleed when
I washed. This type of fabric is
~ usually imported from India.
: End-uses are men's and
~ women's shirts and dresses.
I 2. originated in Madras, India
~ and it is a very old cloth. Much
: of it has a plain coloured back-
~ ground with stripes, plaid,
.
I checks, or designs on it. Has a
: high thread count and fine.
~ Made with combed or carded
~ yarns depending on the quality.
; Some is mercerised to make it
: lustrous and durable. Often the
~ dyes are not fast and with each
; washing, colour changes take
: place.
I
~ • magazine
: a device which holds full bob-
~ bins of filling yarn and auto-
I matically inserts them, singly,
~ into a shuttle to replace de-
: pleted bobbins.
150 mandeel I marl ytJm (woollen) II
================*
similar to tulle. Used for veils ~ corset and an underskirt. Front
millinery trim. ; skirt edges were often pulled to
• mandeel : the back and fastened to form
~ a draped effect, the so-called
a kind of decoratively worn rur- ~ waterfall-back drape.
ban.
I • manufactured fibre

• mangle ; it's commercial use is still fairly

a machine whose purpose is to : recent. It was only one hundred
express liquid from moving t~x- ~ years ago that Manufacrure Fi-
tiles by passage through a mp. I bres were utilised in this fash-
The textile may be in rope form ~ ion, beginning with artificial silk
or in open width, and the: in 1889. It is very flexible and
. f I
mangle may consIst 0 two or . versatile and can be cared for
more rollers (bowls) running in ; easily. It is wrinkly free flame
contact. ~ resistant and very comfortable .
• man-made fibre ~ • marl
a fibre manufacrured by man as to run together and draft into
distinct from a fibre that occurs ~ one, two slubbings or roving of
naturally. I different colour or lustre.

• mantua, also manteau ~ • marl effect yarn (continu-

widespread female dress of the;
late 17th century. Develo~ed ~
from a t-shaped garment, which :
is first pleated informally at the ~
shoulders and a belt controls ~e ;
waist pleats. Instead of cuttlng :
the bodice and skirt as separate ~
pieces that were sewn together, I
bodice and skirt were cut in one :
length from shoulder to hem. ~
Cut to fall full in back and front, I
the garment was worn over a ;
ous-filament)
two single, continuous-ftlament
yarns, of different solid colours
or dyeing properties (subse-
quently dyed) doubled together,
also termed ingrain (filament
yarn).
I ( 11)
• mar yarn woo en
a yarn cons~sting of t~o
woollen-spun smgle ends of dif-
ferent colours twisted together.

11========Textile
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II marlboroughbueketboot I mass~ted 151

- marlborough bucket boot ~ in white, solid colours and nov-

thigh-high riding boot with; elty effect, sometimes with a
cup-shaped wide top, square ~ swivel dot or clip spot.
toes and higher heels than the : _ mashru
jackboot, made from stiff .~ c. b .
a la nc woven 0 f silk and co- t
leather, fourth quarter
. . of 17th .I ton, the warp 0 f one rnaten·al
cenrury to begmmng of 18th ; and the weft of the other. liter-
century. ~ ally, 'that which is in accordance
- marled : with the Shara, Muslim holy
yarns made up of 2 different ~ law, which disapproves of an
colours, produced by combin- ~ arel made of silk.
ing fibre strands (rovings) of ; _ mask
2 different colours, or twist-
; theatrical accessory in ancient
ing together 2 yarns of differ-
: times, it was adopted in the 16th
ent colours, or by cross dye-
~ and 17th century by women, to
ing plied yarns of 2 different
I protect the wearer's complex-
fibres.
~ ion and preserve her incognito.
- marocain ; - mass stress
a woven crepe fabric with a
: a term that has been superseded
wavy rib effect in the weft re-
~ by specific stress.
sulting from the use of high I
twist yarns, used in women's : - mass-coloured
dresses, suits. ~ descriptive of man-made fibres
I in which colouring matter (e.g.,
- marquisette
~ dye or pigment) has been incor-
1. fme lightweight open mesh
: porated before the filament is
fabric, used for curtains, mos-
~ formed.
quito netting, trim for evening
wear, or millinery. ~ - mass-pigmented
2. very lightweight, open, sheer, ~ descriptive of a form of mass-
mesh fabric. Wears very well ; colouration in which a pigment
and launders very well. comes : is used.
I

Textile======== II
152
========*
• matchings
wool that has been sorted.
• mate1asse
1. a fancy double woven or com-
pound fabric that has the ap-
pearance of being padded,
puckered or -quilted, it is usu-
ally woven on a jacquard loom,
used for upholstery, drapery,
vests. Lighter weights are used
for dresses and other apparel.
2. a medium to heavyweight
luxury fabric made in a double
cloth construction to create a
blistered or quilted surface.
Common end-uses are uphol-
stery, draperies, and evening
dresses.
• matte jersey
tricot with a dull surface made
with fine crepe yarn.
• mature cotton
cotton whose fibre wall has
thickened to an acceptable de-
gree.
• maturity
an important cotton fibre
characteristic which expresses
the relative degree of thicken-
ing of wall. It is sometimes
defined as the ratio of the
II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
matchings I mechlen lace II
I cross-sectional area of the fi-
I bre wall to the area of a circle
having the same perimeter as
that of the fibre, or the ratio
I of the average wall thickness
to the radius of the circle hav-
ing the same perimeter as
I that of the fibre. However, in
I practice, measurement of the
degree of wall thickening is
seldom carried out and the
I average maturity of a given
I sample of cotton is estimated
by one or more of several in-
I direct tests which are often
I used to discover the propor-
tion of fibres having a matu-
rity greater than some se-
I lected level.
I • mauritius hemp
I a fibre from the leaf of the plant
furcraea gigantea, also termed
mauritius fibre.
• mechanical stretch
fabrics that have stretch prop-
I erties but do not use spandex
I or other stretch yarns. The
stretch is usually created in the
I finishing process.
I
• mechlen lace
a bobbin lace characterised by
I
 textilestudycenter.com

II medulla I melt-spun 153

*================
delicate floral outlined with a ~ dition in which the surface of
silky thread. ; the extrude becomes rough and
: irregular.
- medulla I

the central portion of some ani- I - melt spinning

:
mal fibres consisting of a series : conversion of a molten polymer
of cavities formed by the med- ~ into filaments by extrusion and
ullary cells which collapse dur- I subsequent cooling of the ex-
ing the growth process in some ~ trude.
fibres e.g., wool and kemp, the : _ melton
medulla forms the greatest por- I
tion of the fibre and is sur- 1. a heavyweight, dense, com-
rounded by a comparatively ~ pacted, and tightly woven wool
I or wool blend fabric used
thin layer of cortex.
; mainly for coats.
- melange/heather : 2. a heavily felted, tightly wo-
a variation in tone or mottled ~ ven fabric with a sheared nap
look, may be done by mixing ~ giving it a smooth surface. It
fibres or yarn of different ; is almost always of wool or a
colours together, printing of the : wool blend used mainly for
top before spinning the yarn, or ~ coats but lighter weights may
cross dyeing the fabric. I be used for other apparel.

_ melt blowing ~ Mostly used for men in over

. h· h I · : coating, uniform cloth of all
a process m w lC a po ymer ·IS I k·m d s (army, navy, etc, as we11
me1t-extrud ed t h rough a d Ie: 1· d f· )
. hi h I · f I as po Ice an lremen, pea
mto a. ghi-ve . .0 .. .JaC kets, reg al Iiver1V. U sed lor
h OClty stream f:

hot alr, w c converts It mto I •

. 1 h fib . heavy outer sports garments
fime and re1atlve y s ort 1 res.· d f:
A C. hi b
ruter quenc ng y a co alr ld· I an coats lor women.
stream, the fibres are collected ~ - melt-spun
as a sheet on a moving screen. ; descriptive of man-made fila-
_ melt fracture ~ ~ents produced by melt-spin-
: nmg.
an unstable melt-spinning con- I

Textile============= II
154
========*
• mercerisation
1. a process of treating a cotton
yarn or fabric, in which the fab-
ric or yarn is immersed in a caus-
tic soda solution and later
neutralised in acid. The process
causes a permanent swelling of
the fibre, resulting in an in-
creased lustre on the surface of
the fabric, an increased affInity
for dyes, and increased strength.
. I tre, unproved strength and an
2 . the. process
. takes ItS name
firom Its discoverer, John Mer-
cer (1844), the additional effect
of enhancing the lustre by
stretching the swollen materi-
als while wet with caustic alkali
and then washing off was dis-
covered by Horace Lowe
(1889). The modern process of
mercerisation involves both
. • menno
swelling m caustic alkalis and
stretching, to enhance the lus-
tre, to increase colour yield, to
improve dye ability of dead cot-
ton and to improve the strength
of the cotton. A related process,
liquid ammonia treatment pro-
duces some of the effects of
mercerisation. In chain
mercerising, shrinkage in fab-
ric width is allowed, followed by
re-stretching and washing on a
II = = = = = = = 7 b : t i 1 e
merr:erisation I merino /I
~ clip-stenter. In chainless
; mercerising, the fabric is effec-
~ tively prevented from shrinking
by transporting over rotating
I drums
I • mercerised
:
~ a ~Inishing process for cotton
; usm~ caustic soda which may be
~ apphed at. the. yarn. ~r fabric
: stag~ resultmg m additional lus-
.. unprove
. d abili·ty to t ake d ye
I .
~ • merchant converter
an individual who or an organi-
I
zation which locates a supplier
I and purchases grey fabric, pro-
cures its fInishing and then re-
: sells the fInished fabric to cus-
~ tomers.
I •
:
~ 1. wool from .merino sheep.
; T~e. meri~o breed of sheep
ongmated m Spain and the wool
is noted for its fineness and
~ whi~enes~. It was confined to
; Sp~ until the late 1700's when
: mermo sheep were exported to,
I and bred in, many other coun-
I tries. Well known types of me-
rino are: Australian
Ramboulliet, Vermont, South

II mesh I metalfibre
*================
Mrican, Saxony etc. the word
'merino' is now almost synony-
mous with 'fme wool',
2. a pre-20th centuiy term ap-
plied in France and Germany to
worsted fabrics produced from
yarns using merino or other
fme wools,
3. a plain back worsted fabric
developed in England in the
1820's. It was made from fine
yarns spun from merino or
other fine wools of 23 to 28
tex for the warp and 17 to 22
tex for the weft. The stimulus
for the development of this
fabric was the availability of
fine machine-spun worsted
yarn,
4. woollen fabrics made in En-
gland from yams produced
from wool reclaimed from soft
woollen and worsted dress
goods,
5. a French shawl made from
two-fold warp yam using me-
rino wool. The weft yarn is
made from other wool or silk,
. : mium complex is formed
6. a fme cotton fabnc used ..as a
dress material in the Phlhp-
pines. It is made from yarns of
13 tex for the warp, and 15 to
10 tex for the weft with 32 ends
Thmle======11
textilestudycenter.com
155
~ x 32 picks per cm.
~ • mesh
~ 1. a type of fabric characterised
; by its net-like open appearance,
: and the spaces between the
~ yarns. Mesh is available in a
I variety of constructions includ-
~ ing woven, knits, laces, or cro-
: cheted fabrics.
~ 2. a general term for fabric with
I open spaces between the yarns.
.
; It may be knit, woven or knot-
: ted (net) in construction.
I
: • messaline
~ often believed to be named af-
; ter the Roman emperor
~ Claudius' third wife. It is very
: soft, lustrous and lightweight.
~ It usually comes in solid
I colours.
I • metachrome process
; a single-bath method of dyeing
: in which the fibre is treated in a
~ dye bath containing a suitable
~ chrome dye together with a
; chromate, whereby a dye-chro-
.I WI·thin theIre.
fib
.
~ • metal fibre
~ a term used to describe fibres
; made from any metal.
156 metal pegs I metamerism II
========*
• metal pegs I (acetate), butalloate (butyrate),

small metal pins, about an inch ; or polyester. The ftlm may be

long, which are arranged in the : coloured,
pattern chain of a dobby loom 3. yarns on which metal is de-
to control the weaving of cloth I posited, e.g., chemically or bv
designs. electric arc, or by adhesive, •
• metallic 4. multi-end yams in which at
least one single yarn is metal-
a highly lustrous, reflective fab- I lic,
ric that has the appearance of :
5. a gimp in which the helical
metal. May be coated or made I
covering consists of a metallic
from synthetic yarns in metal- I
or laminated strip.
lic colours.
• metamerism
• metallic fibre
an inorganic fibre made from a phenomenon whereby the
minerals and metals, blended I nature of the colour difference
and extruded to form fibres. I between two similarlv coloured
The fibre is formed from a flat objects, changes with change in
ribbon of metal, coated with a the spectral distribution (char-
protective layer of plastic, which I acteristics) of the illuminant.
reduces tarnishing. Metal used I Metamerism is most frequently
in apparel fabric is purely deco- seen when two coloured objects
rative. I match in daylight, but differ
I markedly in colour when viewed

• metallised yarn in tungsten-ftlament light. This

I. a yam which has free metal arises because the visible ab-
as a component. There are sev- ~ sorption spectra of the two ob-
eral types, the best known of ; jects differ significantly, al-
which are, : though the tristimulus values in
2. metal of narrow strip section, I daylight are identical. This term
usually lustrous. The metal I is often used loosely to describe
may be coated with film such the behaviour of a single
as viscose cellulose ethanoate coloured object that shows a

1I=======Textile
 textilestudycenter.com

II microfibre I milling 157

*===============
marked change of colour as the I • milanese
illuminant changes. Use of this ; a warp knit process resulting in
term in this way is incorrect: ~ a fabric with a fme rib on the
this effect should be described : face and a diamond effect on the
as lack of colour constancy. ~ back, used for women's linge-
• micro fibre ; rie and other apparel.
1. extremely fme synthetic fibre
; • mildew
used to produce soft, light- ; a superficial growth of certain
weight fabrics. Micro fibre is : species of fungi on textile ma-
often defined as fibres of less~ terials. This may lead to
than 1 denier per filament but I discolouration, tendering, and

the term is used loosely in the; variation in properties.

industry may be polyester, ny- ~ • milled/fulled
lon, acrylic, rayon or other fi-
. .
bres. Used for rainwear, outer-; a method of compressmg. '
wear and various other types of: shrinking and felting a fabnc
apparel. ~ through the use of moisture
; heat and mechanical pressure,
• micro mattique
: usually done on wool and wool
brand of polyester micro fibre ~ blends such as Melton. The pro-
trademarked by Du Pont. ; cess often obscures the weave.
• micronaire value ~ • milling
a measurement of cotton fibre ; the process of consolidating or
quality which is a reflection of ~ compacting woven or knitted
both fineness and maturity. : fabrics that usually, although
Low values indicate fme and/or ~ not exclusively contain wool,
immature fibres, high values ; note, the treatment, which is
indicate coarse and/or mature : usually given in a cylinder mill-
fibres. Micronaire value is de- ~ ing machine or in milling
termined in practice by measur- I stocks, produces relative mo-

ing the air permeability of a ~ tion between the fibres of a fab-

specified plug of cotton fibres. : ric that have been wetted out and

Textile=======11
158 millitex I mohair II
=~~~~~~~=.
swollen with a liquid of suitable ~ dobby loom with an open mesh
ph. depending on the type of ; design that simulates a leno
fibre and structure of the fabric : weave by interlacing and group-
and on variations in tho:: condi- ing the warp and weft yarns
tions of milling, a wide range I with spaces between the groups.
of effects can be obtained vary- Warp yarns are not paired as in
ing from a slight alteration in a true leno weave.
handle to a dense matting with I • modacrylic
considerable reduction in area. I
1. fibres composed of synthetic
• millitex I linear macromolecules having

a ubit of the Tex system I in the chain between 35% and

85% (by mass) of recurring

• mini check
cyanoethane (acrylonitrile)
a very small pattern of squares I groups.
or rectangles that may be yarn
I 2. a manufactured fibre similar
dyed, printed, or woven into the
to acrylic in characteristics and
fabric.
end-uses. Modacrylics have a
• mirzai I higher resistance to chemicals

a kind of jacket, often under- I and combustion than acrylic, but

stood as a 'quilted coat'. It was also have a lower safe ironing
generally worn sleeveless over I temperature and a higher spe-
a shirt as outer garment, worn I cific gravity than acrylic.
sometimes also next to the skin I • mohair
without anything underneath it.
I from the angora goat, some has

• mispick cotton warp and mohair filling

an imperfection in the weave (sometimes called brilliantine).
caused by a length of filling yarn I Angora goat is one of the old-
not being interlaced in its cor- I est animals known to man. It is
rect place across the warp. 2 1/2 times as strong as wooL
I Goats are raised in South M-
• mock leno I rica, Western Asia, Turkey, and
a woven fabric made on a neighbouring countries. The

II ========Textile
 textilestudycenter.com

II *
mohairbraid I molarma.tf(polymer) 159

fabric is smooth, glossy, and ~ tern on the face of the fabric.

wiry has long wavy hair. Also ~ _ moisture content
made in a pile fabric of cut and
uncut loops similar to frieze ~ the weight of moisture in a
with a cotton and wool back ; material expressed as a percent-
and mohair pattern similar to : age of the total weight.
I
alpaca. : - moisture regain
I
: the amount of water a com-
~ pletely dry fibre will absorb
; from the air at a standard con-
: dition of 70 degrees F and a
~ relative humidity of 65%.
I •
: - mOIsture transport
I
- mohair braid . the movement of water from
lone side of a fabric to the other,
any type of braid made from
~ caused by capillary action,
m@hair yams.
: wicking, chemical or e1ectro-
- moire ~ static acti6n.
1. a wavy watermark pattern ~ - moity wool
produced by calendaring 2 lay-
~ a term used mainly in the UK,
ers of fabric together or em-
; for wool containing vegetable
bossing with an engraved
: matter (straw, hay, twigs, etc,)
roller. This causes the em-
~ picked up by sheep during graz-
bossed or crushed parts of the
fabric to reflect light differently. ~ ing.
It is often done on corded fab- ~ - molar mass (polymer)
rics and is often used for uphol- ; the average of the sum of the
stery and drapery. :I atomic weights of the atoms
2. a corded fabric, usually made : present in the chains of mac-
from silk or one of the manu- ~ romolecules in a polymer.
factured fibres, which has a dis- ; This average will in general
tinctive water-marked wavy pat- : depend upon the basis on
I

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
160 moleskin l11UJ1UJfilammt JII:m II
========*
which calculated, and this ~ • monk's cloth
should be stated, e.g., it may ~ 1. a heavy weight cotton fabric
be based on a number average . utilizing the basket weave varia-
or a mass average. cion of the plain weave. Used
• moleskin I for draperies and slipcovers,

I monk's cloth is an example of 4

a strong, heavy, woven fabric
. x 4 basket weave. It has poor
wIth a short, smooth nap pro- I dim . al bili· d cis
. : enslOn sta ty an ten
d uced by b rusbing and sh earmg I
the surface. to snag.
I 2. quite heavy, due to construc-
• molten-metal dyeing cion. It is difficult to sew and
process manipulate as the yarns have a
a method of continuous dyeing ~ tendency to slide, stretch and
in which material is impreg- ; fray. May sag in time depend-
nated with an aqueous liquid : ing on the compactness of the
dye and chemicals and then ~ weave. It can also be made in I

passed through a bath of liquid I other basket weaves quite

low-melting alloy usually below rough in texture. Also used for
100°C. coats and suits for women and
I sports coats for men .
• momme
a Japanese measurement of ~ • monofilament
mass equivalent to 3.76g (ap- ~ a single fllament of a manufac-
proximately). It is used to indi- ; tured fibre, usually made in a
cate the weight per unit area of : denier higher than 14.
silk fabric, this being expressed ~ monofllaments are usually spun
as the weight in momme of a ; singularly, rather than extruded
length of degummed fabric 22.8 as a group of fllaments through
m in length and 3.8 cm in a spinneret and spun into a
width. The length measure- I yarn. End-uses include hosiery

ments used are standard units I and sewing thread.

of length in the Japanese silk

I • monofilament yarn
industry.
a yam composed of one fila-

II = = = = = = = = T e : a i l e
 textilestudycenter.com

II monomer I moss crepe/pebble crepe .. ==========1",,6=1

ments that run essentially the ~ strate to form a complex with a

whole length of the yarn. Yams ; dye, which is retained by the
of more than one filament are : substrate more firmly than the
usually referred to as multifila- ~ dye itself.
ment. I
: • mordant dye
• monomer ~ a dye that is fixed with a mor-
a small, simple, chemical com- I dant.
pound from which a polymer is
formed. In most cases a given
I.
moshla
polymer can be made from a ; a cap, worn usually by children,
variety of alternative mono- ~ covering, apart from the back,
mers. In some cases two or : the back of the neck through a
more different monomers are ~ long, suspended flap.
involved in the production of a ~ • moss crepe
polymer. I mossy crepe or sand
• monotone ~ crepe(trade mark) has a fine
refers to a design in one colour. : moss effect created by plain
~ weave or small dobby made
• montagnac ; with a spun-rayon warp and a
twill, this luxurious textile is : filament rayon filling. The two-
soft and lustrous. It is mainly ~ ply warp yarn is very coarse and
, created with cashmere or camel ~ bulkier than the filling. Mostly
hair. ; made in rayon and synthetics
• moquette : but some in silk.
I

a firm double woven pile fabric : • moss crepe/pebble crepe

I
used mainly for upholstery. Pile: a woven fabric with a character-
may be cut, uncut or partially ~ is tic grainy surface and often a
cut. ; spongy hand. Generally made
• mordant : with high twist yarn in a crepe
~ weave used in women's suits,
a substance, usually a metallic I dresses etc.
compound, applied to a sub-

Thmle======11
162 mossed I muff II
========*
.mossed ~ coat are frequently termed
1. a fmish usually applied to ; seed-coat neps.
synthetics which gives the fab- ; • mouches
ric surface an irregular, mottled
I french word for small black
appearance.
patches worn on the face to
2. a fibrous texture on the sur- I hide little blemishes. They
face of felted woollen fabrics. I came into fashion in the second
- motes (cotton) half of the 17th century and
there are two broad categories, developed far into the 18th cen-
I tury a language of its own,
fuzzy motes, the largest of this
type of mote consists of whole I where they were exaggeratedly
used even by men and available
aborted or immature seed with I
in diverse shapes.
fuzz fibres and sometimes also
with very short lint fibres, the • mousseline
development of which has I general term for crisp, light-
ceased at a very early stage. I weight, semi-opaque fabrics.
Small fuzzy motes originate as ~ May be made from a variety of
either undeveloped or fully- fibres.
grown seeds, which are broken I
in ginning and disintegrate still • mousseline de soie
further in the opening, cleaning it is silk muslin. It is something
and carding processes, bearded I like chiffon but with a crisp fm-
needles. a piece of seed coat I ish produced by sizing. It does
with fairy long lint fibres at- not wear well and it does not
tached. Both classes of mote I launder. Evenings wear, and
become entangled with the lint I bridals wear. Also used in mil-
cotton and, when they are linery as a backing.
present in quantity, their com- _ muff
plete elimination is impossible I
except by combing. Fuzzy and I round band of fur or fur lined
bearded motes carrying only a cloth to protect the hands from
small piece of barely visible seed I the cold.

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II mug" I muslin 163

*================
.muga ~ • mungo
wild silk I the fibrous material made in the

; woollen trade by pulling down

• mughlai pyjama
a pyjama of the 'mughal' cut.
• mule spinner
a somewhat outmoded machine
which spins many strands of
loosely twisted roving into
many strands 0 f yarn.
• mull
soft, thin, plain weave fabric I • muslin
usually of cotton or silk.
: new or old hard-woven or
~ milled fabric or felt in rag form.
~ • muskrat
~ mostly found in north America.
; The thick blue-grey, which re-
: sembles the beaver's has fibres
I '
: that are extremely fme. Prima-
~ rily used by the fur industry.
I 1. an inexpensive, medium

• multi-filament yarn ~ weight, plain weave, low count

a yam composed of filaments (less than 160 threads per
:
that run essentially the whole ~ square inch) cotton sheeting
length of the yarn. Yams of one ; fabric. In its unfinished form,
filament are usually referred to : it is commonly used in fashion
as monofilament. ~ design to make trial garments
~ for preliminary fit.
• multilobal ; 2. a large group of plain weave
descriptive of a fibre or filament : cotton or cotton blend fabrics.
whose cross-section resembles ~ They cover a variety of weights
a polygon but has concave sides I from light, fine sheers to
and rounded vertices (lobes). ~ heavier sheeting. Used in
The prefixes Tri- 3, Penta- 5, : interfacings, dresses, shirts,
Hexa- 6, Octa- 8, etc, are used ~ sheets, furniture covers, and
with the sufflx-Iobal to indicate ; many other applications.
the number of lobes. ~ 3. a generic name for a light-
.munga : weight, open fabric of plain or
I simple leno weave traditionally
wild silk.

Thctile======= "
164
~========*
with a cover factor of 5- 10 in
the warp and 5-9 in the weft.
Normally, muslins did not ex-
ceed 2oz/yd2 (68 g.m-2). Some
of these fabrics are used in the
grey state (butter muslin and
cheese cloth), whereas others
(dress muslins) are bleached
and dyed.
• mutton cloth
a plain-knitted fabric of loose I
texture, usually cotton, made on
a multi-feeder circular-knitting I.net
machine.
mutton cloth I ninnon II
I • nap
I a fuzzy, fur-like feel created
when fibre ends extend from
the basic fabric structure to the
I fabric surface. The fabric can be
I napped on either one or both
sides.
I
• neps
short immature fibres, or por-
tions of mature fibres which are
tangled and broken.
I 1. an open fabric, which is cre-

ated by connecting the intersec-

• nacre velvet
tions in a woven, knitted, or cro-
the back is of one colour and the I cheted construction to form a
pile of another, so that it gives I mesh-like appearance that
a changeable, pearly appear- won't ravel. End-uses include
ance. veils, curtains, and fishnets.
• nainsook I 2. a mesh fabric made in a vari-

produced in the finishing pro- I ety of geometric-shaped meshes

cesses from the same grey of different sizes and weights.
goods as used for batiste, cam- It forms the foundation for a
bric, lawn. Fine and soft and has I great variety of laces, curtains,
a slight lustre in the better quali- I millinery, fancy pillows, trims,
ties (mercerisation). Usually evening and bridal wear. In cot-
found in white but also comes I ton,some is used for mosquito
in pastel colours and some I netting and screening.
printed. Tucked or embroi- I • ninnon
dered, blouses, night wear, lin- a sheer, fairly crisp fabric,
gerie, and infant's wear. heavier than chiffon. Much like

11========7emle

II novelty ,am I olefin
voile, but more body. The warp
yarns are often grouped in pairs.
Washes well, particularly in the
synthetics.
Mostly used for curtains, and
some for evening or bridal
wear.
• novelty yarn
a yarn that is intentionally pro-
duced to have a special or unique
effect. Twisting together un- I
even single yarns can produce
these effects by using yarns that
contain irregularities, or by I
twisting yarns that contain a I
colour variance. A slubbed yarn ;
is an example of a novelty yarn.
• nylon
this manufactured fibre is very ~
strong and is resistant to both ;
abrasion and damage from ~
many chemicals. It is elastic, :
easy to wash and is quite lus- ~
trous. It returns easily to it's ;
original shape and is non-absor- :
bent. It is fast drying, resistant ~
to some dyes, and resistant to I
moths and other insects, water, I
perspiration and standard dry-
cleaning agents.
Women's hosiery, knitted or
woven lingerie, socks and
T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
textilestudycenter.com
165
*================
~ sweaters, rugs and carpets,
; tents, sleeping bags, duffle bags,
: racquet strings, fishing lines,
~ sails, tire cord, machine belting,
~ filter netting, fish nets, lami-
; nates, and ropes.
• nytril
; a manufactured fibre, most of-
: ten used in sweaters or pile fab-
rics, where little or no pressing
is recommended, as the fibre
has a low softening or melting
point. However, it has also been
successfully used in blends with
wool for the purpose of mini-
mizing shrinkage and improv-
ing the shape retention in gar-
ments.
• olefin
I a manufactured fibre
: characterised by its light weight,
~ high strength, and abrasion re-
=166~~~~~~~=. oleftnftbre lomabuTlJ II
sistance. Olefm is also good at ~ - organdy
transporting
a . kin moisrure
. E creating
d ' .; l '
. a stiffened, .
sheer, lightweight
Wldc ~ actIon. n -uses m- ; plain weave fabric with a me-
cl
. e actIve wear apparel' rope,.. dium to hig h yarn' count End-
u
mdoor-outdoor
. d carpets
hIs' lawn I . uses· .
mclude blouses dresses
fur rurure , an up 0 tery.· . ~ and curtains/draperies. "
- olefin fibre ; 2. made with tightly twisted
it is very lightweight yet strong. : yarns. Crispness is due to a fm-
It is resistant to abrasion, soil, ~ ish with starch and calendaring
stains and deterioration from ~ which washes out, or a perma-
mildew, and damage from; nent crispness obtained with
chemicals. It is also quick dry- .: chemicals. Wrinkles badly un-
ing and colourfast. ~ less given a wrinkle-free fmish,
Various uses such as apparel, I may be bleached, dyed, printed,
interior parts of automobiles : frosted, flocked, embroidered
. ' I '
furrurure and carpets. : or plisse.
I
_ open shed : - organza
the shed in which the warp ~ a crisp, sheer, lightweight plain
yarns are uncrossed and paral- ~ ~eave fabric, with a medium to
leI. The distinction between ; high yarn count, made of silk,
open shed and closed shed only : rayon, nylon, or polyester. The
arises in weaving cross-thread ~ fabr~c is used primarily in
tissues, such as gauze weave or I evenmg and wedding apparel
leno weave. ~ for women.
_ opossum ~ - osnaburg
can be found in Australia : a tough medium to heavy-
, I . h
Southern USA and Argentina. : welg t coarsely woven plain
White face and fur that is loose, ~ weave fabric, usually made of a
greyish and white-tipped. Pelt- ; cotton or cotton/poly blend.
ing used chiefly as trimming for Lower grades of the unfmished
cloth coats. I fabric are used for such indus-

11=======Thai/e
 textilestudycenter.com
II ottoman Ipaillettesatin 167
*================
trial purposes as bags, sacks, ~ manufactured fIbres in a 2 x 1
'and pipe coverings. Higher ; basket weave variation of the
grades of fInished osnaburg can : plain weave construction. The
be found in mattress ticking, ~ fabric is used primarily in shirt-
slipcovers, work wear, and ap- ~ ing.
parel. ; 2. warp has two fine yarns
: which travel as one and one
~ heavier softly-spun bulky fIlI-
~ ing which gives it a basket-
; weave look. Better qualities
: are mercerised, rather heavy,
~ usually is all white but some
; has a spaced stripe in the warp
: direction. When made with
I .
• ottoman : yarn dyed warp and whIte
~ weft, it is called oxford cham-
a tightly woven plain weave ; bray. The one remaining com-
ribbed fabric with a hard slightly : mercial shirting material
lustre surface. Weaving a fIner ~ made originally by a scotch
silk or manufactured warp yarn I mill, which bore the names of
with a heavier filler yarn creates ~ four universities Oxford,
the ribbed effect. Usually made : Cambridge, Harvard, and
of cotton, wool, or waste yarn ~ Yale.
in the construction, the heavier
filler yarn is completely covered ~ - package
by the warp yarn, thus creating ~ a general term for any wound
the ribbed effect. End user for ; arrangement of yarn, such as a
this fabric include coats, suits, : cheese or cone.
I
dresses, upholstery, and draper-
: - paillette satin
Ies. I
: it is characterised by it's
• oxford ~ changeable colour and is avail-
1. a fme, soft, lightweight wo- ; able in a variety of different
ven cotton or blended with : colours. It was originally ex-
I

ThaiIe======11
168
=================*
ecuted in silk but is now made
with manufactured fibres.
• paisley
a tear-drop shaped, fancy
printed pattern, used in dresses,
blouses, and men's ties.
• panne
panne is a French word mean-
ing plush. It resembles velvet
but has a much longer pile. It
has high lustre and is made in
silk, silk blends or with manu-
factured fibres.
• panne velvet
has a longer or higher pile than
velvet, but shorter than plush.
It is pressed flat and has a high
lustre made possible by a tre-
mendous roller-press treatment
given the material in finishing.
Now often made as knit fabric.
• paper taffeta
plain weave, very light in weight
and treated to give a crisp, pa-
per-like finish.
• pattern chain
1. an arrangement of wooden
crossbars and metal pegs which
is used to control the weaving
of cloth designs and patterns.
11======7b:tj/e
paisley I pea" de soie II
I 2. the sequence of laced-to-
I gether perforated cards which
are used to control the weaving
of cloth designs and patterns.
I
• peau de cynge
the name comes from a French
I phrase that means 'swam skin'.
Crepe yarns are woven to cre-
I
ate a silk textile with high lus-
I
tre. It has a slightly slubbed tex-
I ture and a good body.
I • peau de peche
the name comes from a French
phrase meaning 'skin of peach'.
I This textile has a soft nap that
I is acquired after a finishing pro-
cess.
I
I
• peau de soie
soft, satin-face, good quality
cloth. It has a dull lustre. Has a
I grainy appearance, and is a
characteristic in the cloth, which
may have a single or double face
I
construction. Fine close ribs are
I seen in the filling direction, with
the best grades, the fabric can
be used on either side. Lower
I qualities are finished on one
I
side only. Some cloth sold as
I
peau de soie is really a de-lus-
tre satin. It doesn't have the
 textilestudycenter.com
II percale I pile knit 169
*================
grainy appearance because of ~ ters the number of filling yarns
crosswise rib, fabric difficult to ; woven into a piece of cloth.
ease. ; • pick finding
• percale ; the process of turning back the
1. a medium weight, plain : loom and unweaving the cloth
weave, low to medium count ~ to find a mispick, which is to be
(180 to 250 threads per square I rectified.
inch) cotton-like fabric. End-
~ • picker machine
uses include sheets, blouses,
and dresses. ; a machine which cleans, sepa-
: rates, and fluffs raw cotton,
2. medium weight, firm, I
: forms the cotton into a uniform
smooth, with no gloss. Warps
~ layer, and winds it into a roll
and washes very well. Made
; about a core.
from both carded and combed
yarns. Comes white or can be ; • piecing up
printed. Percale sheeting is the ~ the operation of tying together
finest sheeting available, made : broken strands of yarn, sliver or
of combed yarns and has a ~ roving.
count of 200 carded percale
sheeting has a count of 180. It ~ • pile knit
has a soft, silk-like feel. The ~ a type of knit construction
thread count ranges usually ; which utilizes a special yarn or
from 180-100. : a sliver that is interloped into a
~ standard knit base. This con-
• pick I struction is used in the forma-
a single strand of weft or filling : tion of imitation fur fabrics in
. d d . I '
yarn carne across an rnter-: special liners for cold weather
laced through the strands of ~ apparel such as jackets and
warp yarn. ; coats, and in some floor cover-
• pick clock : ings. While any basic knit stitch
the automatic counting device
~ may be used for the base of pile
attached to a loom that regis- ~ knits, the most common is the
; jersey stitch.

Textile
170
=========*
• pile weave
a type of decorative weave in
which a pile is formed by addi-
tional warp or filling yarns in-
terlaced in such a way that loops
are formed on the surface or
face of the fabric. The loops
may be left uncut, or they may
be cut to expose yarn ends and
produce cut pile fabric.
• pill
a tangled ball of fibres that ~p-
pears on the surface of a fabric,
as a result of wear or continued
friction or rubbing on the sur-
face of the fabric.
• pin check
worsted, also made in cotton
and rayon. A minute check ef~
fect caused by a combination of
weaves and colour. It has the
appearance of tiny white dots
appearing in rows, vertically,
and horiwntaliy. Holds a sharp
crease, tailors and wears excep-
tionally well. In time, it is in-
clined to shine with wear. For
example men's suits, women's
tailored suits and skirts. In cot-
ton, it usually has a white dot
on a blue ground and it is used
for work clothes.
1I======7extile
pile wmve I plain wmve "
• pique
I originally was a crosswise rib
but now mostly a lengthwise rib
and the same as Bedford cord.
I Ribs are often filled to give a
I more pronounced wale (cord
weave). Comes in medium to
heavy weights. It is generally
I made of combed face yarns and
I carded stuffier yarns. Some of
the patterns are birds' eye
(small diamond), waffie (small
I squares), honey comb (like the
design on honeycomb honey).
I
When the fabric begins to wear
lout it wears at the corded areas
I first. Trims, collars, cuffs, mil-
linery, infants wear, coats, and
bonnets, women's and
I children's summer dresses,
~
skirts and blouses, shirts, play
. clothes, and evening gowns.
• plain cloth
I
cloth in which the strands of
I warp and filling yarn are inter-
I laced alternately with one an-
other, as in darning.
I
• plain weave
a basic weave, utilizing a simple
I alternate interlacing of warp
I and filling yarns. Any type of
yarn made from any type of fi-
 textilestudycenter.com
II plied yarn Ipolyester 171
*================
bre can be manufactured into a ~ application of a caustic soda so-
plain weave fabric. ; lution, which shrinks the fabric
: in the areas of the fabric where
- plied yarn
~ it is applied. Plisse is similar in
a twisting together of two or ~ appearance to seersucker. End-
more single yarns in one opera- ; uses include dresses, shirting,
tion. : pyjamas, and bedspreads.
I
- plisse : - plush
I
1. could be made from any fine : velvet or velveteen where the
material, e.g..Organdie,. lawn, ~ pile is 1/8' thick or more. E.g.
etc. Treated With a caustic soda . Cotton velour. hat velour. plush
solution, ~hich shrinks parts of ~ 'fake furs'.' ,
the goods either all over or in I
stripes giving a blistered effect. ~ - point d'esprit
This crinkle mayor may not be : first made in France in 1834.
removed after washing. This ~ Dull surfaced net with various
depends on the quality of the I sized holes. Has white or

fabric. It does not need to be ~ coloured dots individually

ironed, but if a double thick-
ness, such as a hem, needs a
little, it should be done after the
fabric is thoroughly dry.
Sleepwear, housecoats, dresses,
blouses for women and chil-
dren, curtains, bedspreads, and
bassinets.
2. a lightweight, plain weave,
fabric, made from cotton,
rayon, or acetate, and
characterised by a puckered
striped effect, usually in the
warp direction. The crinkled
effect is created through the
: spaced or in groups.
I
: _ polyester
~ 1. a manufactured fibre intro-
~ duced in the early 1950s, and is
; second only to cotton in world-
: wide use. Polyester has high
~ strength (although somewhat
; lower than nylon), excellent re-
~ siliency, and high abrasion re-
: sistance. Low absorbency al-
~ lows the fibre to dry quickly.
; 2. it is an extremely resilient fi-
~ bre that is smooth, crisp and
: particularly springy. Its shape is
I

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
172 polypropylene I protein basefibres II
================*
determined by heat and it is in- I include blouses, dresses, etc.
sensitive to moisture. It is light- • 2. originally from china and
weight, strong and resistant to originally woven on hand looms
creasing, shrinking, stretching in the home. Some is dyed, but
and abrasion. It is readily wash- • colour is not quite uniform,
able and is not damaged by sun- • some printed. Warp is finer and
light or weather and is resistant more even than filling. Nubs or
to moths and mildew. irregular cross ribs produced by
- polypropylene • uneven yarns. It is woven from
wild tussah silk and it is a 'raw
a manufactured fibre'
silk'.
characterised by its light weight, •
high strength, and abrasion re- - poplin
sistance. Polypropylene is also a fabric made using a rib varia-
good at transporting moisture, • tion of the plain weave. The
creating a wicking action. End- construction is characterised by
uses include active wear ap- having a slight ridge effect in
parel, rope, indoor-outdoor car- • one direction, usually the filling.
pets, lawn furniture, and uphol- • Poplin used to be associated
stery. with casual clothing, but as the
_ pompadour taffeta 'world of work' has become
• more relaxed, this fabric has
originally executed in silk. Of- • developed into a staple of men's
ten have large floral designs in wardrobes, being used fre-
velvet or pile on a taffeta • quently in casual trousers.
ground. Occasionally stripes are
used instead of flowers. Today - portable frame
it is made with manufactured • a rack for holding a full warp
fibres. • beam while strands of warp
- pongee yarn are being secured to old
warp in a loom.
1. the most common form is a •
naturally coloured lightweight, - protein base fibres
plain weave, silk-like fabric this cellulose fibre is highly ab-
with a slubbed effect. End-uses •

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II prwence I rajfl,h (tradenmne) 173

*================~
sorbent. Its drape ability and ~ - quill
dye ability are excellent and it ~ a small bobbin or spool, usually
is fairly soft. ; made of paper, around which
- provence : filling yarn is wound.
I
this is a typed style of printing : - quilting
I
which characterises provence, a : a fabric construction in which a
French country. ~ layer of down or fibrefill is
- purl stitch ; placed between two layers of
a basic stitch used in weft : fabric, and then held in pla<:e by
knitting, which produces knit
~ stitching or sealing in a regu-
fabrics that have the same ap- ~ lar, consistent, all-over pattern
pearance on both sides. The ; on the goods.
purl stitch is frequently used ; • raccoon
in combination with the jersey ~ native American. The fur is
and rib stitches to produce a : greyish-brown and black.
knitted fabric design. Sweat- I
ers, knitted fabrics for infants :I - railway sewing machine
and children's wear, knitted : a power sewing machine which
fabrics for specialised sports- ~ is specially devised to sew the
wear, and bulky knit fabrics ; ends of cloth lengths together.
are commonly made using the ; - rajah (trade name)
purl stitch.
; made from a tussah silk or cer-
- Pyrenees : tain silk wastes. It belongs to
this fabric is made in France ~ the pongee family of silks.
from the wool of Pyrenees' ; Made from irregular yarns, so
flocks of sheep. The Pyrenees : has slubs and irregularities but
is a mountain chain between ~ thicker than shantung. It is
France and Spain. The fabric is ~ rather compact and strong. Has
well known because it is a high ; a pebble-like feel and appear-
quality fabric, which keeps : ance and comes in all colours as
warm. ~ well as natural ecru shades, but

'HmIe======1I
174 rtlmie I redwood btJrk II
========*
often warp and filling are dif- I as adulteration with silk fibres,
ferent colours (iridescent ef- I and as a substitute for flax. The
fect). china-grass cloth use by the
• ramie Chinese is made of ramie. This
I fibre is also useful for rope,
ramie is a natural woody fibre twine, and nets.
resembling flax. Also know as
rhea and china grass, it is ob- I • raschel knit
tained from a tall shrub grown a warp knitted fabric in which
in Southeast Asia. China, Ja- the resulting knit fabric re-
pan, and southern Europe. The I sembles hand crocheted fabrics,
fibre is stiff, more brittle than I lace fabrics, and nettings.
linen, and highly lustrous. It can Raschel warp knits contain in-
be bleached to extreme white- laid connecting yarns in addition
ness. Ramie fibres are long and I to columns of knit stitches.
very fine. They are white and I • rayon
lustrous and almost silk-like in
appearance. The strength of ~ a manufactured fibre composed
ramie is excellent and varies ; of regenerated cellulose, de-
from 5.3 to 7.4 grams per de- rived from wood pulp, cotton
nier. Elastic recovery is low and I linters, or other vegetable mat-
elongation is poor. Ramie lends I ter. Today, various names for
itself to general processing for rayon fibres are taken from dif-
textile yarns, but its retting op- ferent manufacturing pro-
eration is difficult and costly, I cesses. The two most com-
making the fibre unprofitable I monly used production meth-
for general use. When combed, ods for rayon are the
ramie is half the density of linen, cuprammomum process and
but much stronger, coarser, and I the viscose process.
more absorbent. It has perma- I • redwood bark
nent lustre and good affinity for this fibre is obtained from the
dyes, it is affected little by mois- bark of the California redwood
ture. Ramie is used as filling I tree. It is used for insulation and
yarn in mixed woollen fabrics, I sometimes for blending with

II = = - i ! ; ; ; ; ; = = = = = ' I B t m l e
 textilestudycenter.com

II ned I mpirator 175

*~~~==~~~~
other fibres such as wool and ~ cally duplicates the perfora-
cotton. ~ tions of a sample jacquard
• reed : loom pattern chain in blank
I
: cards. .
a toothed, comb-like part of a I
loom. Its function is to hold the : • repellency
strands of longitudinal yarn\ ~ the ability of a fabric to resist
(warp) in alignment between I such things as wetting and
its teeth and also to push each ~ staining by water, stains, soil,
transverse thread (pick) tight : etc.
against the rest as the cloth is :I • repp or rep
woven.
~ wool, worsted, silk, rayon, wool
• reed hook I ottoman, cotton or a blend. It

a flat metal tool, similar to a ~ has a pronounced narrow cylin-

crochet hook, used for drawing : drical rib in the filling direction,
the individual strands of yarn ~ less distinct than bengaline,
through the dents in the reed. I more distinct than poplin.
~ Sometimes a very distinct rib is
• reeling
: alternated with a small rib. It is
winding yarn from bobbins, ~ similar to poplin but heavier in
onto a revolving reel in the form I cotton.
of a skein or hank in which it is
best arranged for dyeing. ~ • resiliency

~ the ability of a fabric to spring

• regenerated fibre
: back to its original shape after
a man-made fibre produced ~ being twisted, crushed,
from a naturally occurring fi- ~ wrinkled, or distorted in any
bre-forming polymer by a pro-
~ way.
cess that includes regeneration
of the original polymer struc- ~ • respirator
ture. : a device for covering the mouth
I
: and nose, worn by the card
• repeating machine
~ stripper to prevent the inhala-
a machine which automati- ; tion of dust and lint.

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
",,1=76==========* rewinding I ringspinner II
• rewinding ~ tion, usually the filling. Such
;
the act ofwinding yarn from one fabrics may have problems with
package to another. : yarn slippage, abrasion resis-
:• tance, and tear strength. Ex-
• rib knit • amples of this construction in-
a basic stitch used in weft knit- clude broadcloth, poplin, taf-
ting in which the knitting ma- feta, faille, shantung, and cord
chines require two sets of ~ fabric.
needles operating at right ; • ribbon lap
angles to each other. Rib knits
have a very high degree of elas- • the roll of closely matted cot-
ticity in the crosswise direction. • ton fibres, about 10 inches
This knitted fabric is used for wide, formed on the ribbon
complete garments and for such lapper from several sliver laps.
specialized uses as sleeve bands, • • ribbon lapper
neckbands, sweater waistbands, • a machine which draws and
and special types of trims for • combines several rolls of lap
use with other knit or woven from a sliver lapper into one roll
fabrics. Lightweight sweaters in ~ of ribbon lap ready for feeding
rib knits provide a close, body ; to a combing machine, straight-
hugging fit. • ening the fibres slightly and
• rib weave making the lap more uniform
one of the plain weave varia- in weight and texture.
tions, which is formed by using: • • ring bar
1. heavy yarns in the warp or • a rail, extending the length of
filling direction, or • the ring spinner, which, by a
2. a substantially higher num- properly timed up-and-down
her of yarns per inch in one di- motion, builds the yarn onto
rection than in the other, or • bobbins in even layers.
3. several yarns grouped to- • • ring spinner
gether as one. Rib fabrics are
all characterised by having a • a machine which transforms
slight ridge effect in one direc- • one or more strands of slightly

11========Te6dile
 textilestudycenter.com

II ring tm:veller I ssteen 177

*====~~~~====
twisted roving into one strand ~ 2. a strong .canvas or duck.
of spun yarn. ; The weights vary, but most
: often the count is around 148
• ring traveller
~ x 60. Sailcloth for clothing is
a small weight on a ring spin- ~ sold frequently and is much
ner that is arranged to spin ; lighter weight than used for
freely on a circular track around : sails.
the bobbin at a rate slightly
~ For example sails, awnings, and
slower than the bobbin rotates,
~ all kinds of sportswear for men,
in order to guide the yarn onto
; women, and children.
the bobbin.
; • saran fibre
• rip-stop nylon
~ a manufactured fibre which has
a lightweight, wind resistant, : an excellent resistance to sun-
and water resistant plain weave I
. light and weathering, and is
fabric. Large rib yarns stop ; used in lawn furniture, uphol-
tears without adding excess
: stery, and carpets.
weight to active sportswear ap- I
parel and outdoor equipment ~ • sateen
such as sleeping bags and tents. : lustrous and smooth with the
• roving ~ sheen in a filling direction.
. d d f I Carded or combed yarns are
t h e 1oose1y twiste stran o · d . .
· .. use . Better qualIties are
cotton fibI res firom the tIme It I . . .
. : mercensed to gIve a hIgher
1eaves the suer
1 bb until It goes I h S 1 1
thr h th . fi d seen. orne are on y ca en-
oug e spmner rames an ~ dared to produce the sheen but
becomes yarn. .. this disappears WI·th sashing and
• sailcloth ~ is not considered genuine sa-
1. any heavy, plain-weave can- I teen. May be bleached, dyed, or
vas fabric, usually made of cot- ~ printed. Difficult to make good
ton, linen, polyester, jute, nylon, : bound buttonholes on it as it has
etc. that is used for sails and ~ a tendency to slip at the seams.
apparel (i.e. bottom weight ; For example dresses, sports-
sportswear). : wear, louses, robes, pyjamas,
I

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
178 sateenfobric I sannTWIIJ1e II
linings for draperies, bed- I cotton filling is often used in
spreads, slipcovers. I cheaper cloths.
• sateen fabric I • satin fabric
a fabric made from yarns with I a traditional fabric utilizing a
low lustre, such as cotton or satin weave construction to
other staple length fibres. The achieve a lustrous fabric surface.
fabric has a soft, smooth hand I Satin is a traditional fabric for
and a gentle, subtle lustre. Sa- evening and wedding garments.
teen fabrics are often used for Typical examples of satin weave
draperies and upholstery. I fabrics include: slipper satin,
I crepe-back satin, faille satin,
• sateen weave
bridal satin, moleskin, and an-
a variation of the satin weave, I tique satin.
produced by floating fill yarns
over warp yarns. • satin faconne
I jacquard figured fabric with an
• satin I all-satin weave background.
originated in China (Zaytoun, Various types of striping effects
China, now canton, a pon from I are obtained.
which satins were exponed dur- I
ing the middle ages). Became • satin weave
known in Europe during the a basic weave, characterised by
XII, and XIIT centuries in Italy. I IQIlg floats of yarn on the face
It became known in England by of the fabric. The yarns are in-
the XIV century. It became a terlaced in such a manner that
favourite of all court life be- I there is no definite, visible pat-
cause of its exquisite qualities I tern of interlacing and, in this
and feel. Usually have a lustrous manner, a smooth and some-
surface and a dull back. The lus- what shiny surface effect is
tre is produced by running it I achieved. The shiny surface ef-
between hot cylinders. Made in I fect is further increased through
many colours, weights, variet- the use of high lustre fIlament
ies, qualities, and degrees of ~ fibres in yarns, which also have
stiffness. a low grade silk or a I a low amount of twist. A true

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\1 satin-bRei I serge 179

satin weave fabric always has ~ seersucker, some of the warp

the warp yarns floating over fill- ; yarns are held under controlled
ing yarns. : tension at all times during the
~ weaving, while other warp
• satin-back
~ yarns are in a relaxed state and
satin on one side and anything ; tend to pucker when the filling
on the other. E.g. very good : yarns are placed. The result pro-
velvet ribbon has velvet on one ~ duces a puckered stripe effect
side and satin on the other. i in the fabric. Seersucker is tra-
• satin-back crepe ~ ditionally made into summer
a reversible cloth with satin on : sportswear such as shirts, trou-
one side and crepe on the other. ~ sers, and informal suits.
~ • selvage
• satin-crepe
satin weave on the face and a ~ 1. the edge of woven fabric that
crepe effect on the back ob- ; is so formed as to prevent rav-
tained with twisted crepe yarns : eUing. The finish may be differ-
in the filling 2 or 3 times as ~ ent or the same as that of the
many ends as picks per inch. It ; fabric.
is a soft fabric, which is revers- ; 2. the thin compressed edge of
ible. it is usually piece dyed. : a woven fabric which runs par-
Very interesting effects can be ~ allel to the warp yarns and pre-
obtained in a garment by using ; vents ravelling. It is usually
both sides, in different parts. : woven, utilizing tougher yarns
E.g, the crepe side for the body ~ and a tighter construction than
and trim or binding with the I the rest of the fabric.
satin part up. For example ~ • serge
dresses, blouses, linings, after
I 1. a fabric with a smooth hand
5 pm wear.
~ that is created by a two-up, two-
• seersucker : down twill weave.
a woven fabric which incorpo- ~ 2. a very distinct twill (2 upj2
rates modification of tension I down) which shows ,on both
control. In the production of ~ sides of the fabric. On the

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180
====""====*
face, the distinct diagonal runs
from the lower left to the up-
per right piece dyed. It has a
smooth, hard finish that
wears exceptionally well but
will shine with use. The shine
cannot be removed perma-
nently. It is a good cloth in
tailoring as it drapes and
clings very well. French sere
is made of very fine soft yarns
and has very fine twill.
• serging
an over casting technique done
on the cut edge of a fabric to
prevent ravelling.
• shantung
1. a medium-weight, plain
weave fabric, characterised by I
a ribbed effect, resulting from I
slubbed yarns used in the warp
or filling direction. End-uses
include dresses and suits.
2. it is a raw silk made from I
tussah silk or silk waste, de-
pending on the quality. It is I
quite similar to pongee, but I
has a more irregular surface, I
heavier, and rougher. Most of :
the slubs are in the filling di- ~
reccion.
II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
serging I_tush II
I • sharkskin
I 1. a hard-finished, low lustre,
medium-weight fabric in a twill-
weave construction. It is most
I commonly found in men's wor-
I sted suiting. However, it can
also be found in a plain-weave
I construction of acetate, triac-
I etate, and rayon for women's
I sportswear.
It has a heavy, semi-crisp tex-
rure. It is very smooth and slip-
I pery, has a flat look, and is
I
mostly made in white but some
also comes coloured.
2. the yarns in both the warp
I and filling are alternately white
(or very light yarns) and
coloured. The combination of
weave and colour results in
coloured lines running diago-
nally to the left opposite to the
twill lines in a 'step' effect. AI-
I though it is fairly light in
weight, it has a very substantial
feel. It gives excellent wear and
sheds dirt readily. It is used for
men's and women's suits, light-
weight coats and sportswear.
• shatush
.. f th fi extil
.I this IS one 0 e mest t es.
: It is created from white, silver
 textilestudycenter.com

II shearingmRCbine I Shutt[e..throwing~IY 181

or grey hair of wild goats. The
supply of this hair is very lim-
ited so the textile is very ra:c .
It is one of the most expensIve
fabrics in the world.
• shearing machine
a machine which cuts away
knots and loose yarn ends from
the surface of cloth after it has
been woven, to give the cloth a
smooth surface.
• shed
the opening made across tel h :
warp by the raising of some :
. f I
threads ~d the depre~smg 0 :
others. It IS through this open- ~
ing that the shuttle passes and_ ;
lays the cross of fIlling yarn ot :
a fabric.
- sheer
any very light-weight fabric (e.g. ~
chiffon, georgette, voile, sheer
crepe) . usually has an open
weave.
- shetland
1. wool from Shetland sheep in I
Scotland. Sheep have a coarse ;
outer coat and a very fme un- ;
dercoat, which gives added:
warmth. The best is the under- ~
growth. It is not shorn but I
~ pulled out by hand in the spring.
I 2. has a very soft hand and a
~ shaggy fInish of protruding fI-
: bres. Often the natural colours
~ ranging from off-white, various
; greys to almost black and
: brown are used and not dyed.
~ Real Shetland wools are expen-
; sive, high quality products. For
~ example coats, suits, and
: sportswear for both men and
~ women. Fine Shetlands are
; made into fme shawls~ under-
wear crochet, work and hosiery.
_ shot taffeta
usually plain weave, woven with
one colour in the warp and an-
other colour in the fIlling, which
gives the fabric an iridescent
~ look. If fabric is moved in the
~ light this colour changes.
- shuttle
I the device used to carry the cross
; or fIlling yarn back and forth
: through the strands of longitu-
I . .
: dinal or warp yarn m weavrng
cloth.
_ shuttle-tllfowing assembly
the mechanism that kicks or
throws the shuttle, carrying
the filling yarn, between the

T e x t i J e = = = = = = = II
182 silk I sV;e ~ II
strands of warp yarn in weav- ~ - sisal
ing cloth. I 1. a strong baste fibre that origi-
_ silk I nates from the leaves of the

a natural filament fibre pro- agave plant, which is found in

duced by the silkworm in the the West Indies, C~ntral
construction of its cocoon. I America, and Mrica. End-uses
Most silk is collected from cul- I include cordage and twine.
tivated worms, tussah silk, or 2. sisal is one of a group of fi-
wild silk, is a thicker, shorter bres obtained from the leaves
fibre produced by worms in I of plants. It is obtained from a
their natural habitat. All silk I plant that belongs to the agave
comes from Asia, primarily : family and is raised in Mexico,
China. I es~cially in the Yucatan penin-
I sula. The fibre is also cultivated
in Mrica, Java, and some areas
of South America. Sisal can be
I dyed bright colours, by means

of both cotton dyes and acid

dyes normally used for wooL It
I is important in the manufacture

I of such items as matting, rough

handbags, ropes and cordage
and carpeting.
_ simulated linen fabrics ~ - size box
various rayon, cottons, syn- ~ a unit of the slashing machine,
thetics, and blends are woven I which contains the sizing solu-
with threads of uneven thick- I tion with which the yarn is
ness to simulate linen. They : treated.
lack the cool, firm, yet soft feel I • •
·
o f 1men. Th··
elf Irregularities :I - SIZe ffilXer
are too even when seen beside a large (300 gallon) tank
real linen. I equipped with steam coils and

II = = = = = = = = 7 l : a i l e
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II sUsing I smIISh 183

a powered paddle, within which ~ brocaded effectS

sizing is prepared. ~ • sliver
• sizing ~ the loose, untwisted strand of
1. a stiffening substance used to ; cotton fibres produced on the
give yarn strength, stiffness, : carding machine, drawing
and smoothness, which im- ~ frame, and combing machine.
prove its weaving qualities. ~ • sliver tapper
2. treating yarn with a stiffen-
~ a machine which draws and
ing substance to improve its
; combines several strands of
weaving qualities.
: sliver into a sheet of lap and
• skein ~ winds it on a spool ready for
a continuous strand of yarn ar- ~ ribbon lapping or combing.
ranged in a loose coil. I • slub

• skewer I a thick place in a strand of yarn

a wooden peg or spindle on ~ caused by improper spinning.

which bobbins of roving are ~ • slubber
held in a creel.
; a machine which draws out
• slashing machine : strands of sliver and twists them
a machine in which warp yarn ~ together loosely in order to give
is arranged in a prescribed se- ; the strands (now roving) suffi-
quence, impregnated with siz- :I cient strength to .
withstand sub-
ing to improve its weaving : sequent operatlons.
qualities, and wound on a ~ • slubbing
loom beam ready for use.
~ the process of drawing out and
• slipper satin ; loosely twisting sliver to make
strong, compactly woven with ; roVIng.
quite a bit of body. It is used : • smash
chiefly for footwear. Textures are I
: the breaking of a large number
high and the material comes
~ of strands of warp yarns while
coloured, black or white, or richly
I the warp is in the loom.

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = = II
184 snarl I spun myon II
• snarl I very fme holes used in the spin-
a tangle of yarn. I ning process of manufactured
fibres. The spinning solution is
• solution-dyed forced or extruded through the
a type of fibre dyeing in which I small holes to form continuous
coloured pigments are injected ftlament fibres. The holes in the
into the spinning solution prior spinneret can vary in diameter
to the extrusion of the fibre I to produce fibres of various de-
through the spinneret. Fibres I flIers.
and yarns coloured in this man-
I • spinning
ner are colourfast to most de-
structive agents. I the process of making yarn
from cotton fibres by drawing
• spandex out and twisting the fibres into
it is an electrometric fibre that I a thin strand.
can be stretched up to five times I • spool
it's original length without be-
ing damaged. It is lightweight I a flanged cylinder, usually of
and flexible. It resists deterio- I wood, upon which yarn is
ration from perspiration, deter- : wound.
gent ad body oils. It is • spot weave
characterised by its strength and I a woven construction in which
durability. I patterns are built in at spaced
The main uses are athletic wear intervals through the use of
and foundation garments. extra warp and/or extra fill
• spindle I yarns are placed in selected
J:. I areas. These yarns are woven
a metal rod or wooden stick lor
holding spools, cheeses, or bob- I into the fabric by means of a
dobby or jacquard attachment.
bins on such machines as spin-
ner frames, warping machines, • spun rayon
and winders. 1. simulated cotton or wool
• spinneret I made with staple fibres in a con-
a metal nozzle type device with I tinuous strand to give this ef-

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II staple fibres I sulfor 185

fect. Wears well and is washable,
made in different weights,
comes in plain colours and
prints, has soft, fuzzy surface
and blends well with cotton.
2. a yarn made by taking a
group of short staple fibres,
which have been Cut from the
longer continuous filament fi-
bres' and then twisting these
short staple fibres together to
form a single yarn, which is
then used for weaving or knit-
ting fabrics.
• staple fibres
short fibres, typically ranging
from 1/2 inch up to 18 inches
long. Wool, cotton, and flax
*=.===============
~ strands always remain station-
; ary and the others are pulled up
: or down to make way for the
I
: shuttle.
~ • stop motion device .
~ an automatic device that is de-
I signed to stop a textile machine
~ on the occurrence of such
: events as a thread breaking or
~ the spindle bobbins becoming
; fulL
; • stripper
; the small roller in a carding
: machine which takes the cotton
~ from the worker and in turn
I.
~ gives it to the carding drum.

suede
exist only as staple fibres. ; wool, cotton, rayon, synthetics
Manufactured staple fibres : and blends. Napped on one side
are cut to a specific length :I to resemble suede leather.
from the continuous filament ~ Short, close nap gives a soft,
fibre. Usually the staple fibre ; smooth hand. When made in
is cut in lengths ranging from : cotton, it resembles duvetyn,
1-1/2 inches to 8 inches long. ~ but heavier.
A group of staple fibres are
~ • sulfar
twisted together to form a
yarn, which is then woven or ~ it is a nonconductive fibre that
knit into fabrics. ; is retardant to flame. It has ex-
: cellent resistance to a variety of
• stationary shed
~ damaging chemicals and severe
a method of dividing the warp ~ temperatures. This high-perfor-
in which some of the warp ; mance fibre retains its supreme

Thctile======11
186 sunn I take-up roller II
strength, even in unfavourable I rally occurring fibre-forming
conditions. I polymers.
.sunn I • taffeta
this baste fibre is obtained from I I. a lustrous, medium weight,
the crotalaria juncea plant. The plain weave fabric with a slight
fibres grow from 4 to 5 feet long ribbed appearance in the filling
and are retted and prepared like I (crosswise) direction. For for-
other baste fibres. Sunn con- mal wear, taffeta is a favourite
tains over 80% cellulose and is choice. It provides a crisp hand,
highly resistant to moisture and ~ with lots of body. Silk. taffeta
meldew. This fibre is mainly ; gives the ultimate rustle, but
produced in India although : other fibres are also good
small amounts are grown in choices.
Uganda. It is mainly used for I 2. a cloth supposed to have
cordage, rug yarns, and paper. I originated in Iran (Persia) and
In India it is also used for fish- was called 'taftah' (a fme silk.
nets and is sometimes used as I fabric). It is made in plain
a substitute for jute in bagging I colours, fancy prints, watered
cloths. designs, and changeable effects .
• surah It is smooth with sheen on its
I surface. The textures vary con-
a light weight, lustrous twill
weave constructed fabric with a I siderably and they have a crisp-
ness and stiffness. Taffeta in silk
silk-like hand. Surah is the fab- I
will not wear, as long as other
ric of ties, dresses, and furnish-
I high quality silks, since weight-
ings. It is available in silk, poly-
ing is given the fabric to make
ester, and rayon.
it stiff. If it is over weighted, the
• synthetic fibre I goods split or crack .

a man-made fibre produced I • take-up roller

from a polymer built up by man
from chemical elements or
compounds, in contrast to fi-
bres made by man from natu-
I
a powered shaft, at the front of
I a textile machine, that rolls up
the cloth as it is processed.
I

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II taking up I ti&king 187

*===============
- taking up ~ - tension control weave
the action of the take-up roller ~ a type of decorative weave,
as it rolls up the cloth as it is pro- ; characterised by a puckered ef-
cessed. : fect which occurs because the
~ tension in the warp yarns is in-
- tape condenser
; tentionally varied before the flll-
a device which transforms the ~ ~g yarns are placed in the fab-
film of cotton coming from a fin- : nco
isher carding machine directly I
into several strands of roving. : - terry cloth
~ a typical uncut pile weave fab-
- tapestry
I ric. Using two sets of warp
a heavy, often hand-woven, ~ yarns forms this fabric. One set
ribbed fabric, featuring an : of warp yarns is under very
elaborate design depicting a his- ~ little tension, when the filling
torical or current pictorial dis- ; yarns are packed into place,
play. The weft-faced fabric de- : these loose yarns are pushed
sign is made by using coloured ~ backward along with the filling
filling yarns, only in areas ~ yarns, and loops are formed.
where needed, that are worked ; Typical uses include towels,
back and forth over spun warp : robes, and appareL
yarns, which are visible on the I
back. End-uses include wall :I - terry velour
hangings and upholstery. : a pile weave cotton fabric with
~ an uncut pile on one side and a
- tare weight
; cut pile on the reverse side.
the weight of the container or : Terry velour is valued for its
wrappings in which goods are ~ soft, luxurious hand. Typical
purchased. It is deducted from I uses include towels, robes, and
the total (grOSS) weight to obtain ; appareL
the net weight of a product.
; - ticking
- tensile testing machine
~ a tightly woven, very durable
a machine for measuring the : fabric, usually made of cotton,
elasticity and strength of yarn. I

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = II
188
=========*
and used for covering mat-
tresses, box springs, pillows,
and work clothes. Using a plain,
satin, or twill weave conStrliC-
tion can make the fabric.
• tissue taffeta
plain weave, very light weight
and transparent.
• transparent velvet
lightweight, very soft, draping
velvet made with a silk or rayon
back and a rayon pile.
• triacetate
a manufactured fibre, which
like acetate, is made by modi-
fying cellulose. However, even
more acetate groups have been
added to create this fibre. Tri-
acetate is less absorbent and
less sensitive to high tempera-
tures than acetate. It can be
hand or machine-washed and
tumble dried, with relatively
good wrinkle recovery.
• tricot
silk, rayon, synthetics, knit,
warp knitted. Has a thin tex-
ture, made from very fme or
single yarns. Glove silk is a
double bar tricot (very run-re-
sistant).
II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
tissue taffeta I tropical worsteds "
I • tricot knit
I a warp knit fabric in which the
fabric is formed by interloping
adjacent parallel yarns. The
warp beam holds thousands of
I yards of yarns in a parallel ar-
I
rangement, and these yarns are
fed into the knitting area simul-
I taneously. Sufficient yarns to
I produce the fmal fabric width
and length are on the beam.
Tricot knits are frequently used
I in women's lingerie items such
as slips, bras, panties, and night-
gowns.
I
• trimmer
a machine for cutting the loose,
I hanging threads from the sel-
I vages of cloth.
I
. I h
• trIP e seers
I
heavier and flatter than sheers,
almost opaque, many are made
I from <bern berg , which wears,
I drapes, and washes well. Sheers
are used extensively for after 5
wear, as well as afternoon
I dresses in heavier weights, and
I some coats, lingerie, curtains,
trims, etc.
• tropical worsteds
I
the yarns are very tightly twisted
 textilestudycenter.com

II tube I twill weave 189

*========
and woven to permit a free cir- ~ wear. It wrinkles a little, but not
culation of air. It is lightweight ; as much as some.
and is ideal for summer and ; -tweed
tropical wear. It has a dear fm-
ish. ~ 1. a medium to heavy weight,
: fluffy, woollen, twill weave fab-
-tube ~ ric containing coloured slubbed
a piece of rolled paper or card- ; yarns. Common end-uses in-
board of suitable dimensions : dude coats and suits.
I .
upon which yarn is wound. : 2. it is the scotch name for twill
• tulle ~ and originated along the banks
; of the tweed river, which sepa-
1. a lightweight, extremely fme,
: rates England from Scotland.
machine-made netting, usually I known as 'twee
1 '.
: SometImes.
with a hexagon shaped mesh
I Sister clothe of homespun
effect. End-uses include dance
; cheviot and Shetland. They are
costumes and veils.
: the same in texture, yarn,
2. derived name from tUI.le, ~ weight, feel, and use. Originally
France. First made by machine I only made from different
in 1768. Has a hexagonal mesh: coloured stock-dyed fibres, pro-
and is stiff, it is difficult to la~- ~ ducing various colour effects.
der, it is .a stately type of fabnc ~ There are wide ranges of rough
when used for formal wear, and ; surfaced, sturdy fabrics. There
weddings. It is also used for: are also some closely woven
ballet costumes and wedding ~ smoother, softer yarn fabrics,
veils. ~ and many monotone tweeds
• tussah I • twill weave

made from wild or uncultivated ; a basic weave in which the fab-

silkworms. It is coarse, strong,
and uneven. Has a rough tex-
ture with many slubs, knots,
and bumps. Wears well and be-
comes rougher looking with
Textile
: rics are constructed by interlac-
~ ing warp and filling yarns in a
~ progressive alternation which
; creates a diagonal effect on the
: face or right side, of the fabric.
, ' II
190 twist I urena II
=========*
In some twill weave fabrics, the I to facilitate the work of the
diagonal effect may. also be seen I twister in joining them together.
clearly on the backside of the I • twisting
fabric.
the operation of building up ply
• twist yarn by combining two or more
a term that applies to the num- I individual strands of yarn.
ber of turns and the direction I • twisting machine
that two yarns are turned dur-
ing the manufacturing process. I a machine which twists two or
The yarn twist brings the fibres I more strands of spun yarn into
close together and makes them I a heavier, stronger, single
compact. It helps the fibres ad- strand.
here to one another, increasing • tying in
yarn strength. The direction and I the operation of tying the ends
amount of yarn twist helps de- I of yarn from the warp beam to
termine appearance, perfor- the ends of yarn left threaded
mance, and durability of both I through a loom.
yarns and the subsequent fab- I
ric or textile product. Single • tying-in machine
yarns may be twisted to the a machine which automatically
right (s twist) or to the left (z I ties strands of warp yarn from
twist). Generally, woollen and a fresh beam of warp to those
worsted yarns are s-twist, while left in a loom from a former
cotton and flax yarns are typi- ~ beam.
cally z-twist. Twist is generally I • urena
expressed as turns per inch :
(tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or I this baste fibre comes from the
turns per centimetre (tpc). I urena lobata plant. In it's wild
state it grows 3 to 7 feet high
• twister's hook and when cultivated can grow
a device for holding the ends of ~ as tall as 13 feet. The fibre
strands of warp yarn from the strands are cream coloured and
loom and from the warp beam have a wonderful lustre. This

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 textilestudycenter.com

11 utrecht velvet I velPet satin 191

*================
fibre is mainly grown in the ~ 'Velours' is the French term for
Congo area although small ; velvet. 'Cotton velour' is sim-
amounts are also raised in Bra- : ply cotton velvet.
I
zil, India and the Philippines.
:I - velvet
- utrecht velvet : 1. a medium weight cut-pile
originated in Utrecht, Holland ~ constructed fabric in which the
where it was made of silk. It I cut pile stands up very straight.
was pressed and crimped to pro- ~ It is woven using two sets of
duce a raised effect. Today both : warp yarns, the extra set creates
mohair and silk are used. ~ the pile. Velvet, a luxurious fab-

-vair ; ric, is commonly made with a

: filament fibre for high lustre and
thought to be the fur of the :I smooth hand.
squirrel, one of the most valu-
~ 2. it is mostly made with a plain
able furs of the middle ages.
; back but some with twill. Some
-velour : are made with a silk pile and a
I
1. a medium weight, closely : rayon or cotton back. The
woven fabric with a thick pile. ~ cheaper cloths give little service
it can be made using either a ; and look well only a few times
plain weave or a satin weave : before beginning to deteriorate.
construction. It resembles vel- ~ Better velvet may be crush re-
vet, but has a lower cut pile. End ; sistant, water resistant, and
uses include apparel, uphol- : drapes well and has to be
stery, and drapes. ~ handled with care, and pressed
I on a velvet board. Velvet should
2. the pile is characterised by
uneven lengths (usually two) ; be cut with v~ry simple lines in
which gives it a rough look. The : the garment, so not to destroy
two lengths of pile create light ~ the beauty of the fabric. it has
and shaded areas on the surface, ; the tendency to add weight to
a rather pebbled effect. This ~ the figure.
type of velour was invented and ~ • velvet satin
made in Lyons, France, in 1844. a satin weave is used as the base

Textile======== II
192
========*
for this luxurious figured silk.,
~ade with a cut pile effect.
• velveteen
1. a cotton cut-pile weave fab-
ric, utilizing extra fill yarn con-
struction, with either a twill or
a plain weave back. The fabric
is woven with two sets of fill-
ing yarns, the extra set creates
the pile.
2. woven with an extra fllling
yarn with either a plain or a twill
back (twill back is the best).
Warp yarns 80/inch, weft
ranges from 175 to 600 de-
pending on the desired density
of the pile. Mercerised with a
durable fmish, strong and takes
hard wear, poor quality rubs off.
Some of it can be laundered. It
has to be cut all one way.
• venetian
has a very good lustre finish
which resembles satin. In a
good quality used for expensive
suits' for women and sports
jackets for men. Also used for
fine coatings for both men and
women. In cotton, it resembles
very heavy sateen and is used
mostly for lining.
II ===========Textile
velvetem I voile II
I • vichy
I the weave of this fabric is
formed of horizontal bands and
vertical bands respectively in a
light and strong variants of the
I same colour.
I .vicuna
I fleece is reddish brown, shad-
ing to white on the belly. Tex-
tile industry uses the fibres to
I manufacture the softest coat
cloth in the world.
• viscose
I
I the most common type of rayon.
It is produced in much greater
I quantity than cuprammonium
I rayon, the other commercial
type.
• viyella
has the appearance of very fme
flannel. It is soft, fine, and
I warm. Excellent for all kinds of
children and baby's wear,
sportswear, men's and women's
I tailored shirts and dresses.
I • voile
I 1. a crisp, lightweight, plain
weave cotton-like fabric, made
I
with high twist yarns in a high
yarn count construction. Simi-

II warp I warping machine
lar in appearance to organdie
and organza.
2. sheer and very light weight.
Usually made with cylindrical
combed yarns to obtain a top
quality fabric, very highly
twisted yarns are used. Voile
drapes and gathers very well.
The clear surface is obtained by
singeing away any fuzzy yarns
has a hard finish and crisp,
sometimes wiry hand.
-warp
in woven fabric, the yarns that
run lengthwise and is interwo-
,·en with the fill (weft) yarns.
- warp ball
J loose rope of untwisted
strands of yarn wound onto a
core, usually for dyeing.
- warp knit
a type of knitted fabric construc- : the operation of winding warp
tion in which the yarns are
formed into stitches in a length-
wise manner. Warp knits are I.
generally less elastic than weft ; - warping machine
knits. Common examples of : a machine which draws yarn
warp knit~ are tricot knits and ~ from many packages, arranges
Rachel knits.
_ warp knitting jacquard
a term generally applied to a 1
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textilestudycenter.com
193
*================
~ warp-knitting machine with a
; string-type jacquard placed
: above to control pins placed
~ between specially shaped
~ guides mounted in a normal
; guide bar. The pins when,
: raised do not affect the guides
~ but when in a low position de-
; ,flect individual guides in the
~ :guide bar to extend or reduce
: by one needle space the move-
~ ment by the pattern chain or
; pattern wheel. The term is also
: applied to a machine in which a
~ string jacquard raises individual
1 guides in a guide bar so reduc-
~ ing the lapping movement of
: these individual guides com-
~ pared to that applied to the
; guide bar by the pattern chain
: or wheel.
1
: - warping
1
~ yarn onto a beam in suitable
1 arrangement for use as warp in
: the loom.
~ the strands parallel in a pre-
; scribed sequence, and winds
: them 0n beams for use in looms.
II
194 warp-print taffota I whipcord II
=================*
• warp-print taffeta '.weft
usually a plain weave, the I in woven fabric, the filling yarns
warp yarns are printed before that run perpendicular to the
the filling is inserted. The fab- warp yarns.
ric has a very fuzzy design • weft knit
when design is distorted as I
fabric is woven. a type of knitted fabric in which
I yarns are formed into stitches
• waste machine I in width wise manner. Com-
a machine which beats, pulls mon examples of weft knits are
apart, and fluffs up waste cot- circular knits and flat knits.
ton to prepare it for reo use. • weft-knitted interlock
• water repellent a double-faced rib-based struc-
a term applied to fabrics that I ture consisti~1g of two 1 x 1 rib
have been treated with a finish fabrics joined by interlock
which causes them to shed wa- loops. It is made on machines
ter, but are still air-pemleable. I equipped with two sets of op-
I posed needles, from various
• waterproof
materials for a variety of pur-
a term applied to fabrics whose I
poses, including outerwear.
pores have been closed, and
therefore, will not allow water or • whipcord
air to pass through them. very much like gabardine, but
I the yarn is bulkier and much
• weaver's knot
more pronounced. The twill is
a peculiar twisting knot used I
steep 63 degrees and goes
throughout the textile industry. I from left to right (except for
It can be tied very quickly, does I cotton). It is very durable, rug-
not slip, and is not easily de- ged and stands hard usage and
tected. wear. For example topcoats,
• weaving I uniform cloths, SllltIng,
the interlacing of warp and fill- I sportswear, and riding habits.
ing yarn to form a cloth. In cotton, it is also used fo:

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 textilestudycenter.com

II wick ability I worstedflannel 195

*==~==~========
automobile seat covers and ~ mere or Angora goat or the
little boys play suits. ; specialty hair fibres of the
: camel, alpaca, llama, or vi-
• wick ability I
: cuna.
the ability of a fibre or a fabric I
to disperse moisture and allow : • worker
it to pass through to the surface ~ the roller in the carding ma-
of the fabric, so that evapora- I chine which, in conjunction
tion can take place. ~ with the carding drum, opens
• winder : and combs out the fibrous
~ masses of cotton presented to
a machine which simulta- I it.
neously winds yarn from many
spinner bobbins onto many ; • worsted fabric
cheeses, cones, or filling bob- ; a tightly woven fabric made
bins. : by using only long staple,
I
• winding and measuring : combed wool ~r wool-blend
machine ~ yarns. The fabnc has a hard,
· hi h . d I gth f; smooth surface. Gabardine is
a deVlce w c wm s en s 0
. 11 d th : an example of a worsted fab-
cI0 th mto ro s an at e same I . d
. rIC, a common en use IS
time measures the lengths. ; men's tailored suits.
• winding reel ; • worsted flannel
a cylinder of known circumfer-
; twill made in a variety of
ence about which yarn can be
: weights, more closely woven
wound for measuring purposes. I
: and harder than wool flannel,
• wool I can have a very slight nap on

usually associated with fibre ; one side. Tailors very well

or fabric made from the fleece : press well and hold a hard
of sheep or lamb. However, ~ crease.
the term 'wool' can also apply ~ For example, men's suits, jack-
to all animal hair fibres, in- ; ets and trousers.
cluding the hair of the Cash-

Thxtile======== II
""1",,,96==========* wovenfobric Izibeline II
- woven fabric I gether. These long yarns are
fabrics composed of two sets of I used to create fabrics, either by

yarns. One set of yarns, the ~ knitting or weaving.

warp, runs along the length of : _ yarn conditioner
the fabric. The other set of ~
yarns, the fill or weft, is perpen-
; a device for steaming or moist-
dicular to the warp. Weaving ening filling yarn so it will not
the warp and the fill yarns over I kink during subsequent pro-

and under each other holds I cesses.

woven fabrics together. - zibeline

_ wrinkle recovery
similar to resiliency. It is the
ability of a fabric to bounce
back after it has been twisted,
wrinkled, or distorted in any
way.
the fabric is napped then
steamed and pressed. The nap
is long and lies in one direction.
~ It mayor may not be given a
; soft finish and feel. It is usually
: strong coloured and sometimes
I striping (removal of colour) is

- yarn noted in the cloth. Named for

a continuous strand of textile the 'zibeline' a small animal
fibres created when a cluster of ~ found in Siberia. It belongs to
individual fibres are twisted to- ; the sable family and has fine
black fur.

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