GAP

Contents
I. Factory Visit Procedures
Preparation....................................................................................................................7
II. Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.)
What is A.Q.L.? ............................................................................................................8 Gap
Inc.’s A.Q.L. Standards.......................................................................................8 Critical
Defects ...........................................................................................................8 Result of
Finding A Critical Defect ..........................................................................8
III. In-Process Inspection
Purpose...........................................................................................................................9 In-
Process Inspection Forms .....................................................................................9 Cutting
Inspection Procedures ................................................................................. 9 Trim & Sewing
Inspection Procedures....................................................................10
IV. Shipment Inspection
Purpose...........................................................................................................................12
Shipment Inspection Forms .......................................................................................12
Shipment Inspection Methods...................................................................................12
Measurement Audit ..................................................................................................... 13
Measurement Audit Procedures.......................................................................13
“Snug Fitting Sleepwear” Measurement Audit Procedures........................13
Measurement Audit Sampling Plan ...................................................................14
Pass/Fail Levels for Minor Measurement Defects.........................................14
Visual Audit....................................................................................................................15
Visual Audit Methods...........................................................................................15 Visual
Audit Reference Sheets (Classification of Visual Defects)..............15 Visual Audit Sampling
Plans................................................................................15 Visual Audit
Procedures......................................................................................16 Measuring the Weight
of Sweaters and Fine Knits..............................................18 Gap/Old Navy
Procedures.................................................................................18 Banana Republic
Procedures..............................................................................19 Gap Asia Auditing
Procedures..................................................................................19 Seconds &
Overruns ...................................................................................................19 Pack
Audit......................................................................................................................20 Pack Audit
Procedures........................................................................................20 Pack Audit Sampling
Plan ....................................................................................21 Full Carton/CD Flow Pack
Programs ..............................................................22 Full Carton/CD Flow Auditing
Procedures....................................................22 Japanese Purchase Order Auditing
Procedures....................................................23 Outlet Division
Standards..........................................................................................24 Outlet Auditing
Forms................................................................................................24
Table of Contents 2 Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Table of Contents (con’t)
page #
Outlet Auditing Types.................................................................................................24 Outlet
Auditing Procedures ......................................................................................24 Seconds &
Overruns ...................................................................................................24 Sampling Plan for
Rejected Product Purchased by Outlet.................................25 Outlet Defects Classification
Guide..............................................................................25
V. Safety Procedures
Safety Procedures, kids & baby.................................................................................26
VI. Broken Needle Standards
Broken Needle Forms ................................................................................................27 Broken
Needle Procedures.......................................................................................27 Verification of
Factory’s Needle Control Procedures........................................27
VII. Country of Origin
(Refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook)................................................................29
VIII. Carton/Prepack
(Refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook)................................................................30
IX. Appendix 1 (General Forms)
In-Process Inspection Report....................................................................................AI-2 Visual
Inspection Worksheet ....................................................................................AI-3 In-Process
Audit Worksheet ....................................................................................AI-4 In-Process
Graphics Visual Audit Report...............................................................AI-5 Visual Inspection
Report ............................................................................................AI-6 Finished Product
Measurement Sheet.....................................................................AI-8 Finished Product
Measurement Sheet (Tops).......................................................AI-9 Finished Product
Measurement Sheet (Bottoms) ................................................AI-10 Outlet Inspection
Report...........................................................................................AI-11 Broken Needle
Log .....................................................................................................AI-12 Box Audit
Worksheet ................................................................................................AI-13
X. Appendix II (Classification of Visual Defects)
Woven and Knit Dresses / Jump-suits / Coats / Jackets ....................................AII-2 Knit Tops
and Activewear .........................................................................................AII-6 Woven
Shirts ................................................................................................................ AII-10 Denim
Shirts..................................................................................................................AII-13
Sweaters.........................................................................................................................AII-16
Woven Bottoms...........................................................................................................AII-18
Denim Bottoms ............................................................................................................ AII-22
Blazers.............................................................................................................................AII-26
Bras & Bodysuits...........................................................................................................AII-29
Underwear.....................................................................................................................AII-32
Table of Contents 3 Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR
I) Introduction 7
Liaison Office Quality Assurance
Contacts..........................................................................................7
Basic Quality Assurance
Expectations..................................................................................................8
II) Fabric Inspection Program 10
Four Point
System................................................................................................................................11
Defect
Classification.............................................................................................................................1
1
Fabric
Inspection.................................................................................................................................1
2
Knit Bundle
Inspections......................................................................................................................14
Color Program
Basics..........................................................................................................................14
Run Cards and Shade
Bands...............................................................................................................15
Trim and Raw Material
Inspections...................................................................................................16
III) Fabric Testing Basics 18
Finished Garment Testing
Summary..................................................................................................18
Testing Evaluation and
Reporting......................................................................................................19
IV) Cutting and Spreading Inspections 20
Monitoring Spreading and
Cutting....................................................................................................20
Important Points For
Knits.................................................................................................................21
Spreading and Cutting QC Inspector
Procedures.............................................................................21
Cutting Room Inspector
Procedures..................................................................................................22
Manual Cutting
Inspections................................................................................................................22
CNC / Computer
Cutting....................................................................................................................23
Bierrebi (B-R-
B)...................................................................................................................................23
V) In-process Inspections 24
Inspector
Procedures...........................................................................................................................24
Summary of the Follow-up Bundle
Process.......................................................................................25
VI) Additional Monitoring 26
Seam Seal /
Bonding.............................................................................................................................26
Measurement
Procedures....................................................................................................................27
Pre-Final
Inspections...........................................................................................................................27
Quality Reports and Daily
Meeting....................................................................................................27
Quality
Standards................................................................................................................................27
Display and Organizational
Boards....................................................................................................27
Recognition and Incentive
Programs..................................................................................................28
Defect
Codes.........................................................................................................................................
28
Pilot
Lots..............................................................................................................................................
.28
Vestibule
Training................................................................................................................................28
VII) Final Inspection29
VIII) The Final Audit Process 30
Random
Sampling................................................................................................................................30
Sampling
Plans.....................................................................................................................................30
When to
Inspect...................................................................................................................................30
Single Sampling Plan for Normal
Inspection.....................................................................................32
Using the “How To Measure”
Manual................................................................................................33
Re-
Audits..........................................................................................................................................
....33
VIII) Qualified Factory Inspector Program 35
APPENDIXES36
I) Broken Needle and Auxiliary Sewing Tool Policy 36
II) Down Product Compliance Overview 40
CCS 151 Test Lab
Requirements........................................................................................................40
CCS 152 Down
Suppliers.....................................................................................................................40
CCS 153 Factory Monitoring and
Testing..........................................................................................41
CCS 154 Finished Goods Factory In-Process and Final Inspection
Monitoring.............................42
CCS 155 Finished Goods
Testing........................................................................................................43
CCS 156 Fully Vertical Down Supplier
Testing.................................................................................43
CCS 157 CSC QC
Monitoring............................................................................................................44
(III) Finished Garment Testing 54
Requirement...............................................................................................................................
..........54
Procedure....................................................................................................................................
..........54
Testing Evaluation and
Reporting......................................................................................................56
Torque /
Skew.......................................................................................................................................57
(IV) CCS 1800 Seam Tape Commercialization 60
CCS 1801 Seam Seal Trial
Condition.................................................................................................60
CCS 1802 Seam Seal Machine Calibration
Procedures....................................................................62
CCS 1803 Testing
Requirements.........................................................................................................62
CCS 1804 In-Process Seam Seal Testing
Procedures.........................................................................63
CCS 1805 Finished Product Garment Washing
Procedures.............................................................64
CCS 1806 Seam Seal
Troubleshooting................................................................................................65
CCS 1807 Seam Seal Tape Storage
Examples....................................................................................67
CCS 1808 Seam Seal Exterior Appearance
Examples.......................................................................68
CCS 1809 Seam Seal Interior Appearance
Examples........................................................................69
CCS 1810 Seam Seal Test Report
Form.............................................................................................70
CCS 1811 Seam Seal Machine Calibration Report
Form.................................................................71
(V) Heat Transfer/Screen Print Quality Requirements 72
CCS 1850 Heat Transfer/Screenprint
Commercialization................................................................72
CCS 1851 Application Equipment
Requirements..............................................................................73
CCS 1852 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Development
Testing.............................................................73
CCS 1854 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration
Procedures..............................................................74
CCS 1855 Heat Transfer Pre-Production Testing
Requirements......................................................75
CCS 1856 In-Process Heat Transfer/Screenprint Audit
Procedures................................................76
CCS 1857 Finished Product Garment Washing
Procedures.............................................................77
CCS 1858 Heat Transfer/Screen Print
Troubleshooting...................................................................77
CCS 1860 Heat Transfer Exterior Appearance
Examples................................................................78
CCS 1861 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Wash Test Report
Form........................................................79
CCS 1862 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Report
Form...........................................................80
(VI) Puckering Standards 81
Double Needle Puckering
Standards..................................................................................................81
Single Needle Puckering
Standards....................................................................................................82
(VII) A & E Technical Bulletin 83
Sewing Machine
Maintenance.............................................................................................................83
Sewing Maintenance
Checklists.........................................................................................................................83
Preventative
Maintenance...............................................................................................................................
...83 Stitch Forming
System.......................................................................................................................................8
4 Thread Handling
System....................................................................................................................................84
Other Thread Handling
Systems.......................................................................................................................86 Stitch
& Seam
Quality........................................................................................................................................
86
I) Introduction
(VIII) Factory Apparel Sizing Audits 88
(IX) Packaging Compliance Audits 91
Inspection
Procedures..........................................................................................................................92
Lot Integrity and
Selection.................................................................................................................................92
Packaging Compliance
Audits...........................................................................................................................92
Auditing the
Cartons........................................................................................................................................
..92 Auditing the
Contents......................................................................................................................................
...92 Packaging
Defects........................................................................................................................................
.......93 Audit
Results.........................................................................................................................................
..............93 Audit
Failures........................................................................................................................................
..............93
(X) QFI Introduction 94
(XI) Form Examples 96
Garment Wash Test Reporting Form
Example.................................................................................96
Fabric Inspection Sample
Form..........................................................................................................97
Fabric Inspection
Worksheet..............................................................................................................97
Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 1 Form
Example.................................................................................98
Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 2 Form
Example.................................................................................99
Fabric Inspection Summary Report
Form.......................................................................................100
Cutting Quality Control Inspection Form
Example........................................................................101
Sample Sizing Worksheet Form
Example........................................................................................102
Re-Audit Requirements and
Form...................................................................................................103
Inline Inspection Form
Example.......................................................................................................104

NORDSTROM
 SECTION PAGE(S) Foreword 2

Introduction - NPG Quality Assurance Team 3 Final Inspection Procedure 4-24

• Final Random Inspection Overview 4-5

• NPG Approved Inspectors 6

• Booking Form 7

• Combined Inspections 8

• Replenishment Inspections 9

• Product Inspection Process 10-12

• Product Inspection (AQL / Sampling Plan) 10

• During the Booking Stage 11

• Upon Inspectors Arrival at Factory 12

• Carton Inspection 13-14

• Carton Selection Process 13

• Carton Inspection Process 14

• Visual (Construction / Workmanship) Review 15

• Defects Judgment for Visual Check 16

• Measurements / Dimensions Review 17-22

• Measurements / Dimensions Inspection Process 17-19

• Recording Measurements / Dimensions 20-22

• On Site Test 23

• Defect Sorting and Carton Re-Sealing 24

 Final Inspection Report 25-26

• Inspection Report Instructions 25

• Inspection Report Distribution 26

CRITERIA GAP NORDSTROM

COLUMBIA
SPORTS
• 0.1 for appraising Critical AQL for Critical Defectives - Not
AQL Visual Defects Allowed
• 0.25 for OCR/Ticket Defects AQL for Major Defectives - 2.5
 • 4.0 or 2.5 for appraising AQL for Minor Defectives - N/A
Major Visual Defects (varies by
division)
• 6.5 for appraising Minor
Visual Defects
• 6.5 for appraising Major
Measurement Defects
CRITICAL DEFECT A Critical Defect is defined as A defect likely to result in a
anything potentially harmful to hazardous or unsafe condition for
the product user. A Critical an
Defect can be, but is not individual using the product or
limited to, sharp points/edges, fails to meet mandatory
broken needles, loose regulations.
components or other foreign
items which are potentially
harmful. Improper or
inaccurate country of origin or
fiber, component content
markings and CPSC snug fitting
sleepwear measurements that
are greater than tolerance are
also considered Critical Defects.
CUTTING In-Process cutting inspection Cutting and Spreading
INSPECTION Inspections

Trim & Sewing Inspection Trim and Raw Material

Inspections

METAL Metal Detection Test: For ALL Search the floor for used or
DETECTION children’s products (12 YEARS broken needle parts. Pick up and
AND UNDER & Size save any you find to discuss with
Boys/Girls 0-20). factory management.