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It’s been a big year for the beauty industry. The sector saw a slew of
high-pro le exits, from Unilever’s $500M purchase of J Beauty
company Tatcha to Shiseido’s highly anticipated $845M acquisition of
clean beauty upstart Drunk Elephant.
corporate sides.
In this report, we look at the latest innovations across every part of the
beauty space, and highlight the top industry trends to watch in 2020.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Product Development
Product Development
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But it’s not just standalone apps and devices — brands are building
connected beauty systems to personalize skincare treatments, gather
behavioral data on shoppers, and encourage loyalty within brand-
powered skincare ecosystems.
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Big beauty corporates have been keen to showcase their tech savvy in
the consumer devices category. In recent years, L’Oreal has developed
wearable sensors to track sun damage and skin pH levels. L’Oreal-
owned Clarisonic is also trying to position itself as a high-tech,
science-driven brand, according to Glossy.
Other major players like P&G, Johnson & Johnson, and Shiseido have
unveiled their own tech-enabled systems.
Source: Shiseido
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Swedish beauty and personal care device brand Foreo was reportedly
contemplating a $1B sale earlier this year, according to Bloomberg. The
company launched its rst AI-enabled device, the Luna Fofo, in 2018.
The device integrates machine learning and sensors to monitor skin
hydration levels, and leverages the data to customize users’ cleansing
routines over time.
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Source: Foreo
For example, given that these devices could add extra steps to users’
personal care routines, companies may struggle to ensure consistency
of use, with skincare-obsessive consumers more likely to integrate
devices into their regimens than more casual users.
The spike in mobile apps, skin scanners, and smart mirrors also begs
the question of whether consumers are really bene ting from more
beauty tech. With greater adoption comes a need for beauty tech
companies to consider the built-in system biases that could be
impacting their end consumers.
Beauty tech platforms can create a vicious cycle in which shoppers are
constantly nding something to x about their appearance. Smart
mirrors, for instance, have been known to score consumers against
each other, or compare them to the “average, idealized 20-year old,”
according to Allure.
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Privately owned beauty brands are experiencing growth faster than the
total US beauty industry, with new indie brands popping up left and
right. But big beauty companies aren’t letting their market share slip so
easily.
On the M&A side, 2019 has seen some very high-pro le brand
acquisitions, especially within the premium skincare space.
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But while big beauty has recognized that incubation and M&A
strategies are essential to compete with smaller brands and maintain
market share long-term, their e orts have seen mixed results.
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“Boy beauty” and gender neutral products support this greater focus
on inclusive beauty.
Companies like Asos, Calvin Klein, Yves Saint Laurent, Clinique, and
others o er makeup for men, while startups like Context and
incumbent brands including MAC, Tom Ford, and Marc Jacobs have all
launched gender-neutral makeup lines.
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People of color
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Source: Mented
Boomers
Even though they represent one of the most a uent segments, beauty
brands and marketers have tended to ignore this demographic.
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Consumers have take notice: 70% of women aged 40+ want to see more
beauty products targeting perimenopausal and menopausal women,
according to an AARP report.
Beauty brands are also looking to babies and children for untapped
opportunities.
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Gen-Z focused brands have also been on the rise, such as UK-based
Plenaire and Millie Bobby Brown’s Florence by Mills, which recently
launched in Ulta. Meanwhile, incumbent brands like Chanel, YSL, and
others are revamping their product launch and marketing strategies to
attract Gen-Z shoppers.
Of course, to get into the hands of teens, brands must convince their
parents that these products meet a real need and are safe for regular
use.
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K-beauty hit the United States in 2011 when Sephora began carrying
Korean skincare brand Dr. Jart+. Since then, Western shoppers have
clamored for Korean beauty products.
Other Asian beauty markets on the rise include China, which is a hotbed
for virtual beauty thanks to its advanced mobile technologies and tech
giants (further discussed below). Meanwhile, Indonesia o ers a
booming halal beauty market.
brands such as Sahajan, Aavrani, Uma Oils, and others are targeting
Western shoppers.
Source: Sahajan
Manufacturing
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Skin tech became all the rage in 2018, with an increasing number of
companies incorporating AI and other technologies for personalized
skincare recommendations.
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At CES 2019, P&G showcased its Opté Precision Skincare System, which
detects skin blemishes and applies makeup to speci c spots without
wasting product on other parts of the skin.
As the line between food and beauty products thins, expect to see
beauty brands partner more closely with farmers for ingredient
sourcing.
Source: L’Oreal
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Source: Synbio Beta
But manufacturing companies could serve as the next big beauty M&A
wave.
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For one thing, there are fewer beauty brands for sale. With the potential
for a beauty bubble, private equity rms are looking towards
investment opportunities in more “behind the scenes deals,” such as
ingredients or manufacturing operations, according to WWD.
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For example, Unilever has pledged to cut down its plastic usage and
speci cally halve its use of “virgin plastic” by 2025. Earlier this year,
L’Oreal invested in biotech startup Carbios, which is developing plastic
recycling technologies, and also stated it will move to paper-based
cosmetic tubes in 2020.
Source: CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com
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A slew of indie brands are building their value propositions not just
around their products but also on their sustainable packaging. Lerer
Hippeau Ventures-backed By Humankind o ers personal care products
such as deodorant in re llable dispensers.
Source: By Humankind
Keep an eye out for more incubation initiatives, indie brand launches,
and sustainable development and recycling technologies to further
eco-friendly packaging in the beauty industry.
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Consumer desire for transparency has also inspired new models for
delivering quality cosmetics minus markups.
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Source: Racked
Retailers are also using private labels as an a ordable entry point into
more premium products. For instance, Sephora’s private label plays a
key role in attracting shoppers and controlling pricing and
inventory. Sephora Collection is Sephora’s most a ordable line, with a
range of nearly 500 products including makeup, skincare, fragrance,
beauty tools, and more. Today, Sephora positions the brand as a
gateway drug to introduce novice beauty shoppers to its collection,
with the idea that they could eventually graduate to premium brands.
Alternative retailers
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Gone are the days when high-end beauty products could only be
purchased at department stores.
Retailers like Sephora and Ulta have blurred the lines between prestige
and “masstige,” but a deluge of alternative retailers have been
aggressively expanding into beauty retail to cash in on the sector’s high
margins and low barrier to entry.
Apparel retailers
Amazon
Over the last couple of years, Amazon has been aggressively pushing
into beauty e-commerce.
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But it’s uncertain how Amazon’s presence in beauty retail will play out
— and no clear consensus exists on whether indie brands should
choose to partner with Amazon.
Read more about Amazon’s aggressive push into beauty retail in our big
tech and beauty brief.
These booths are placed in public locations with high foot tra c, such
as malls, o ces, and transportation hubs, allowing customers to
privately adjust their makeup and hair on the go. Users scan a QR code
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to enter the booth, where they can then access a facial recognition
system that provides personalized makeup suggestions.
Meanwhile beauty brands from Too Faced to Eos have partnered with
Gen-Z-popular platform TikTok, as platform stars increase their
following and in uence over younger consumers.
The beauty wellness connection is alive and well, with beauty products
and experiences increasingly being associated with various sectors
within the wellness economy.
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06/02/2020 15 Trends Changing The Face Of The Beauty Industry In 2020 | CB Insights Research
Fitness
For instance, Amorepaci c recently tapped into the trend with the
launch of its supplement brand CUBEME in 2018. The brand, which sold
out during its pre-launch, o ers beauty supplements that aims to
combat urban lifestyle stressors, promote weight loss, and more.
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Medicine
Notably, East Asian markets have seen a growing demand for cosmetic
surgery, thanks to increased medical tourism and relatively a ordable
treatments across the region.
Companies have raised millions of dollars for di erent use cases across
the medical aesthetics space. This includes Eunogo, which o ers a
virtual assistant for arranging medical aesthetic appointments for
foreigners visiting Korea; GengMei, a Chinese cosmetic surgery app;
and SoYoung, an online marketplace and social network for consumers
interested in plastic surgery.
Botox bars like Alchemy 43 and Ever/Body have respectively raised $3M
and $17M from investors like Forerunner Ventures, Tiger Global
Management, and others. Online aesthetics marketplace RealSelf has
raised over $40M.
And outside of the US, Shoppers Drug Mart, which is Canada’s largest
drug chain, launched a standalone clinic o ering Botox injections,
llers, laser treatments, and
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These channels can help beauty brands access new markets while
allowing traditional players to cater to consumers’ increased desire for
beauty and wellness products.
Brands are also targeting hotel-goers for beauty products and services.
While beauty conglomerates like L’Oréal, Ulta, Shiseido, and others are
making acquisitions to become more tech-enabled, tech giants like
Google, Amazon, Facebook, and Apple are pursuing the high margins in
beauty through partnerships, consumer insights, e-commerce, and
more.
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Below, we note a few areas where big tech and beauty are
collaborating.
Earlier this year, the company launched in-app checkout for shoppable
posts and since then, it has rolled out features such as augmented
reality shopping and in-app reminders for new product drops.
Voice assistants
Amazon, Apple, and Google have launched their own virtual assistants,
and mentions of “voice” or voice products on earnings calls indicate
just how much these companies are betting on voice-enabled smart
home devices.
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For instance, Sephora has partnered with Google Assistant to launch its
own app, which allows users to book beauty services, take quizzes, and
listen to in uencer-curated beauty podcasts.
Source: Voicebot
Other initiatives
Google has leveraged its search data to help brands better understand
beauty shopper preferences. The giant has leveraged partnerships with
personal care brands, industry research, and consumer insights
reports, and even events to create a more data-driven process for
beauty companies.
Expect to see new kinds of partnerships between tech and beauty and
personal care brands — beyond some of the more obvious use cases.
Though beauty and personal care hasn’t historically been a focus area
for tech companies, these giants will undoubtedly extend their
in uence in the sector — seeking to monetize their data, platforms,
and devices as the beauty industry becomes more tech-enabled.
To learn more about how the big tech and beauty industries are
partnering, check out our brief here.
Ingredient transparency
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Ingredient transparency has become a top priority not only for beauty
and personal care brands, but also for CPG and retail companies more
broadly. Corporates like Unilever, P&G, and Target are tapping into this
trend through acquisitions, accelerators, internal brand incubation,
and more.
In other words: not all natural ingredients are good and not all
synthetics are bad. Often, ingredient concentrations are more
important than the actual ingredients themselves.
Transparency tech
Tech is aiming to do the work for consumers who don’t have the savvy
or patience to sit and read cosmetic labels.
For example, active beauty brand Yuni Beauty partnered with smart
packaging company Thin lm to integrate NFC tags, allowing
customers to access digital experiences which showcase the brand’s
story and products.
Biotech ingredients
It could help improve the beauty production value chain and also help
brands distinguish themselves as the clean beauty market becomes
more saturated.
The EU’s ban on “free from” marketing claims also suggests a future
where we move beyond today’s buzzwords of “clean” and “natural”
and develop more tangible standards for personal care ingredients.
rules will apply to air fresheners, dish soap, and other household
categories.
Customer Experience
Virtual try-on
Virtual try-on in the beauty industry represents one of the best use
cases for augmented reality — a technology that has struggled to
achieve mainstream adoption.
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Even nail color is getting the AR treatment, with companies like Wanna
Nails (owned by Wannaby) and Metaverse Makeovers specializing in
augmented reality for nail polish try-on.
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WeChat, which rolled out its AR e ects capability this summer, o ers
clear advantages for beauty brands — especially the app’s massive
scale. WeChat boasts a daily user base of 1B along with a strong
in uencer community.
Tencent-owned WeChat is not the only Chinese tech giant vying for
virtual try-on technologies: Perfect Corp just raised a Series B round
led by Alibaba. The company also inked a partnership to integrate its
YouCam virtual try-on tech with Alibaba’s online platforms — Tmall
and Taobao.
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Beauty services are decoupling from traditional spas and salons, thanks
to on-demand technologies.
Founded in 2008 and with 90+ locations today, Drybar upended the
traditional salon model by o ering spaces solely devoted to hair
blowouts.
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Conclusion
Beauty is taking notes from the the streetwear space, with beauty
brands increasingly leveraging tactics common in street culture such as
limited edition products and collaborations. Clearly, localization will
continue to play a big role as beauty brands take cue from adjacent
sectors.
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Beyond such cultural shifts, global events will continue to play a major
role in the future of the beauty industry. From the e ect of Brexit on
UK-based beauty brands to China’s tari s on personal care goods and
ingredients, beauty companies will have to consider implications for
hiring, third-party relationships, and more.
On the tech side, keep an eye out for new — or improved — technology
applications in the beauty industry. On the theme of personalization,
Mink resurfaced to make the world’s rst 3D portable makeup printer
available for pre-order earlier this year.
But with all these buzzy applications, don’t forget about the major
opportunities around solving supply chain and operational
ine ciencies across the sector.
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