transBROCHURE - NEW 10 MEASURES - TOTAL

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Cut
BY SYSTEM
10 MEASURES
Page 2
CUT TO THE SYSTEM 10 MEASURES

MEASUREMENT PROCEDURE
WITH FEMALE FIGURES
You will need:
- paper;
- a pencil;
- tape measure;
- Drawstring to encircle the waist.
When taking measurements, the figure should be in its natural position.
You need to consider a figure: how sloping or straight shoulders stooping

or kinky back.
Carefully determine the waist line.
Choose the best fit for your figure:
WITH - freedom of fit (Co)
Co - 0 - for very slim or tight-fitting knitwear
Co - 1.5 - for small sizes
Co - 3 - for medium sizes
Co - 4,5 - for large sizes or for outerwear (coat)
BEFORE TAKING MEASURES, YOU NEED TO CAREFULLY

READ THE ORDER OF REMOVAL OF MEASUREMENTS
http://paukshte.ru/ https://ok.ru/modnyeprak
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MEASUREMENT PROCEDURE
WITH FEMALE FIGURES
Osh - Neck circumference - measured at the base of the neck
Og - Chest circumference - measured at the most convex points of the chest strictly
horizontally
From - Waist circumference - measured by the belt around the waist strictly
horizontally
About - Hip circumference - measured by the most convex points of the buttocks strictly
horizontally, taking into account the convexity of the abdomen
Op - Arm circumference - measured by the fullest part of the arm at level

axillary hollows strictly horizontally
Шс - Width of the back - measured horizontally from the joint of the right
and left arm with back
DP - Shoulder Length - measured from the base of the neck to the end of the shoulder
DS - Length of the back - measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the lace at the waist
WB - Bust height - measured from the seventh cervical vertebra at the base of the neck
to the highest point of the chest
Cg - Center of the chest - measured horizontally between the highest points of the chest
BEFORE TAKING MEASURES, YOU NEED TO CAREFULLY

READ THE ORDER OF REMOVAL OF MEASUREMENTS
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NETWORK CONSTRUCTION
Our measurements: Freedom to fit:
Osh - 35 Co = 3
Og - 96
From - 76
About - 100
Ohr - 30
SS - 33
DP - 12.5
DS - 40
WB - 34
Cg - nineteen
1 About - the location of the seventh cervical vertebra.

Through it we draw a vertical line down - this is the line of the center of the back.
Through O we draw a horizontal line to the right - this is the line of the sprout.
2 From O - put down the measurement of DS. In our case, DS = 40.

Draw a horizontal line from 40.
This is the waist line.
3 The distance to the hip line is delayed from 40 down.
For low growth - 17 cm;

For average height - 18-19 cm;
For tall - 19-22 cm.
In exceptional cases, when the hips are very low, you need
measure the distance from the waistline to the hips, at
the widest place of the thigh. In our case, the distance
to the hips line as measured 23 cm.
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4 The distance to the chest line is calculated by the formula:
1/6 exhaust + 4
In our case: (96: 6) + 4 = 20

Set aside from 0 down, put 20.
five Through the obtained points we draw horizontal lines:
From O - the line of the sprout;

Out of 20 - the line of the chest;
From 40 - a line of a waist;
From 23 - a line of hips;
6 The width of the grid is determined by the formula:
1/2 exhaust gas + Co
The width of our grid = (96: 2) + 3 = 51

Set aside from the center of the back along the chest line (20) to the right,
put 51.
7 After 51, draw a vertical line up and down.

This line is the center line of the front.
This is the direction of the shared thread.
8 The width of the back is determined by the formula:
1/2 AL + 1/3 Co
In our case: (33: 2) + 1 = 17.5

It is postponed from the line of the center of the back along the line of the chest to the right.
We put 17.5. Draw a line up to the line of the sprout.
This is the line of the width of the back.
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nine The width of the armhole is determined by the formula:
1/3 OR + 1/2 Co
In our case: (30: 3) + 1.5 = 11.5
It is postponed from the line of the width of the back along the line of the chest to the right. We put 11.5.
From 11.5 we draw a line up to the line of the sprout - this is the line of the width of the armhole.
10 The height of the shelf is determined by the formula:

1/4 exhaust
In our case: 96: 4 = 24

Set aside the center of the front line from the chest line (51) up 24 cm.
Put 24 from it, draw a small horizontal line to the left.
This is the neckline.
11 Location of the side seam:

1/2 Width of the armhole
In our case: 11.5: 2 = 5.8

Set aside from the line of the width of the back along the line of the chest to the right 5.8 cm.
From 5.8 draw down the line of the side seam.

From 5.8 up, draw a dotted line for further construction.
This is the mid-armhole line .
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BUILDING THE BACK
1 The width of the sprout is determined by the formula:
1/6 OR + 0.5
In our case: (35: 6) + 0.5 = 6.3

Set aside from O to the right, put 6.3.
2 The height of the sprout is determined by the formula:
1/3 Width of the sprout + 0.5
In our case: (6.3: 3) + 0.5 = 2.6

Set aside from 6.3 up, put 2.6.
Draw a sprout in a smooth line.
3 Back shoulder tilt:
1.5 cm - for a figure with straight shoulders;

2 cm - for a standard figure;
2.5 cm - for a figure with sloping shoulders.
Set aside on the line of width of the back from the line of the sprout down.
Put 2 (because in our case the drawing is based on a standard figure).
4 Draw an auxiliary line of the shoulder of the back:

Connect 2.6 to 2 and extend 2 cm beyond the line of back width.
Put 2x. Measure from 2.6 to 2x and record.
In our case, it is 14 cm. This is the auxiliary line of the shoulder.
five On the shoulder line from 2.6 to postpone 4 cm - this is a constant value.
Put 4. From it we draw a vertical line down to the line of the hips.
It will be needed to build the shoulder and waist tucks.
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BUILDING THE BACK
6 The solution of the shoulder tuck is determined by the formula:
Shoulder length
minus the measure of shoulder length (DP)
In our case: 14 - 12.5 = 1.5

The tuck solution cannot be less than 2 cm and not more than 3.5 cm
(for large sizes).
The point of the end of the shoulder 2x can shift to the right or left.
If the tuck solution according to the formula is less than 2 cm

then the shoulder line needs to be lengthened
to the required distance.
If the tuck solution according to the formula is more than 3 - 3.5 cm,
then the auxiliary shoulder line needs to be shortened
to the required distance.
But, if 2x has shifted beyond the line of the width of the back to the left,
this means that a mistake has been made in the standards of a DP or AL.
It is necessary to carefully recheck these measurements.
In our case, the solution of the humeral tuck of the back is 14 - 12.5 = 1.5 cm.
1.5 cm is not enough for a proper tuck solution.
It is necessary to forcibly increase the tuck solution to 2 cm.
To do this, extend the auxiliary shoulder line by 0.5 cm
(2x is shifted to the right by 0.5 cm).
In further construction, a new 2x is used.
Now the auxiliary shoulder line = 14.5 cm.
Further, according to the formula:
14.5 - 12.5 = 2 (tuck solution)
Set aside along the auxiliary shoulder line from 4 to the right 2 cm.
Put 2.
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BUILDING THE BACK
7 Tuck length is determined by the formula:
Tuck solution x 3
In our case: 2 x3=6

Set aside from 4 down 6 cm. Put 6.
8 Connect 6 to 2 - got the second side of the shoulder tuck of the back.
6 is the tip of the tuck.
nine Graphic alignment of the shoulder line with a compass:
a) Measure the distance from the top of the tuck (6)

to the end of the shoulder (2x). And from 2 to draw an arc up.
b) With a compass, measure a distance equal to the measure of DP

(in our case, DP = 12.5). And from the beginning of the shoulder (2.6) spend
second arc, so that it intersects with the first arc.
c) Connect the beginning point of the shoulder (2.6) with the intersection point of the arcs.
Extend to this line both sides of the shoulder tuck.
Get 4 'and 2'.
d) Draw the final shoulder line with the tuck, connecting the points:
2.6 → 4 '→ 6 → 2' → 2x.
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BUILDING THE BACK
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BUILDING A RACK
1 Neck width = sprout width from the back drawing.

In our case, the width of the sprout = 6.3.
Set aside along the neckline from the center line of the front to the left.
Put 6.3.
2 Neck depth = neck width + 1 cm

In our case: 6.3 + 1 = 7.3 cm
Set aside from the neckline along the center line of the front down.
Put 7.3. Draw the neckline in a smooth line.
3 The distance from the center of the front to the center of the chest:
1/2 CG In our case: 19: 2 = 9.5 cm

Set aside from the center of the front, along the chest line to the left.
Put 9.5.
After 9.5 draw a vertical line up and down
is the line of the center of the chest.
4 It is necessary to determine the length of the sprout.
Sprout length = Sprout width + 1
In our case: 6.3 + 1 = 7.3
five The length of the chest tuck is determined by the formula:
Mercury WB - sprout length
In our case: 34 - 7.3 = 26.7

Set aside 26.7 from the neckline down the center of the chest.
Put 26.7.
6 Determine the direction of the shoulder line . Connect Width Point

necks (6.3) with 2 (tilt of the back of the shoulder).
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BUILDING A RACK
7 On the shoulder line from the line of the center of the chest, put 1 cm to the left.
Put 1.
The distance from 1 to the point of the width of the neck (6.3) - measure and record.
In our case, the segment of the beginning of the shoulder is 4.5 cm.
1 connect to the top of the chest 26.7.
Got the first side of the chest tuck.
8 The shoulder inclination of the shelf = 4 cm (constant value).

Set aside from the point of intersection of the shoulder line with the midline
armholes down 4 cm. Put 4.
nine The rest of the shoulder shelves is determined by the formula:
DP - a segment of the beginning of the shoulder
In our case: 12.5 - 4.5 = 8 cm

8 cm - the rest of the shoulder shelves.
Set aside a compass from 4 on the shoulder line 8 cm. Put 8.
Connect 4 to 8 - this is the remainder of the shoulder shelf.
ten Hold the second side of the chest tuck.

Connect 8 to 26.7 (top of chest).
elevenAligning the sides of the chest tuck.

To do this, measure both sides of the chest tuck
and align on the larger side.
If you need to lengthen the first side of the chest tuck (1), then the segment “beginning of the shoulder”
you need to raise parallel to the initial segment of the “beginning of the shoulder”.
If you want to extend the second side of the chest tuck (8), then the segment “shoulder rest”
you need to raise parallel to the initial segment of the “remainder of the shoulder”.
In our case, the first side of the tuck was 0.7 mm shorter than the second, therefore
it needs to be lengthened. And lift the beginning of the shoulder parallel to the original
0.7 cm cut.
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BUILDING A RACK
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BUILDING AN APPLIANCE
1 Connect a straight line to the end of the shoulder of the back (2x) and the end of the shoulder of the shelf (4)
2 DivideDivide this distance in half. From the received point
this distance in half. From the received point
vertical down. Put 3 cm on it - this is a constant value.
From 3 draw an arbitrary horizontal line.
This is the line of the top of the okat of the sleeve.
3 The depth of the armhole is determined by the formula:

1/3 OR + Co (30: 3) + 3 = 13
Set sleeves (3) down 13 cm from the line of the tip of the ridge.
Draw a horizontal line through the resulting point.
This is the line of depth of the armhole .
The line of depth of the armhole may coincide with the line of the chest,
or maybe above or below it.
4 Draw armhole:
a) On the line of depth of the armhole from the middle of the armhole towards the ledge
set aside 1 cm. Put 1. From 1, restore the perpendicular up.
b) Measure with a compass a distance from 1 to the line of the width of the back (17.5)
and set that distance aside perpendicular. From received serif
draw a pair of compasses on the lower part of the armhole of the back.
Connect to arm end of shoulder back.
c) Measure with a pair of compasses the distance from 1 to the line of the width of the armhole (11.5)
and set that distance aside perpendicular. From received serif
draw a compass with the bottom of the armhole of the shelf. Connect
with the end of the shoulder shelf.
The shoulder-arm angle should be 90 ° .
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BUILDING AN APPLIANCE
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HIP CALCULATIONS
If the girth of the hips is greater than the girth of the chest, then the pattern on the hips
need to expand.
If the hip circumference is less than the chest circumference, then the pattern along the hips
need to be reduced.
1 Find the difference between the hips and the chest:

1/2 RP - 1/2 OG
In our case:
50 - 48 = 2
In our case, the pattern needs to be expanded by 2 cm.
2 Divideand
this value in half and set aside the hips to the right
to the left of the side seam.
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CALCULATIONS BY WAIST
1 Determine the amount of waist thrusts:

1/2 exhaust - 1/2 OT
48 - 38 = 10 - sum of darts
It is necessary to fit evenly around the entire circumference of the waist.
The solution of each tuck should be no more than 2.5 cm.
If a very large amount of tucks, then additional tucks are built.
2 First youTo need to fit in the center of the back.

do this, on the waist line from the center line of the back, postpone:
1 cm - for a flat back;

1.5 - 1.8 cm - for the kinky back.
In our case, 1.5 cm.
3 Fit in the center of the back after 1.5.
4 Waist tucks are built:

a) vertical on the back from 4 down;
b) on the line of the side seam;
c) on a shelf along the line of the center of the chest.
In our case, it remains to tighten 8.5 cm.
10 (sum of tucks) - 1.5 (in the center of the back) = 8.5
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CALCULATIONS BY WAIST
In our case, the waist tucks are built:
a) the vertical on the back from 4 down - 2.5 cm;

b) on the side seam line - 2.5 cm;
c) on a shelf along the line of the center of the chest - 2.5 cm.
5 In our case, after uniform fitting, an extra 1 cm remained.

It’s better not to fit it, but look at trying on a fabric layout
how to do it better.
6 The top of all tucks should be no higher than the top of the chest.
7 The lower part of the tucks does not reach the hip line by 3-5 cm
(depending on the figure).
8 Draw the line of the side seam and the line of the center of the back with a smooth line.
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CALCULATIONS WITH WAIST AND HIPS
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BUILDING A SLEEVE
1 A segment equal to 1/2 of the width of the armhole (5.8) to lay off the line of the width of the armhole
(11.5) to the right of the armhole depth line. Put 5.8.
This is the far right point of the sleeve.
2 Sleeve width is determined by the formula:

OR + Co
In our case: 30 + 3 = 33
Set aside 33 cm to the left on the depth line from the far right point of the sleeve
armholes. Put 33.
This is the leftmost point of the sleeve.
3 Finding the first control point (CT1).

On the line of the width of the armhole up, lay as much as to the armhole
It was 0.5 cm. Put KT1 on the armhole.
4 Connect CT1 to the far right point of the sleeve in a smooth line,
repeating a segment of the armhole KT1 to the middle of the armhole (5.8).
five Finding a second control point (CT2).

From the point of intersection of the line of the width of the back and the line of depth of the armhole, draw
bisector to the armhole. At the point of intersection with the armhole, put CT2.
From CT2 lower the perpendicular to the line of depth of the armhole.
Put a.
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BUILDING A SLEEVE
6 Measure the distance from a to the middle of the armhole (5.8). The resulting segment
set aside from leftmost point of sleeve (33) to the right. Put a *.
7 Finding the third control point (CT 3 ).

From point a * restore the perpendicular upward equal to the segment CT2 a.
Put CT 3 .
8 Connecta line
CT and the leftmost point of the sleeve (33) to connect smoothly
3
repeating the armhole segment from CT to the middle of the armhole (5.8). 2
nine Measure with a compass a segment from CT 2 to the end of the back arm (2x) and from CT 3
draw an arc.
ten Measure with a compass a segment from KT1 to the end of the shoulder of the shelf (4) and from KT1
draw an arc.
11 Through the intersection of the arcs draw a vertical line, which is

the center line of the sleeve.
12 The sleeve
intersection of the center line of the sleeve and the peak line of the sleeve ridge is
top (BP).
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BUILDING A SLEEVE
13 Connect BP and CT1 with a straight line. Measure and record.

In our case, this is 15.3. This segment is divided by 3.
BP CT1: 3 15.3: 3 = 5.1 cm

Set aside the obtained value from BP along a segment down. Put 5.1.
From 5.1, restore the perpendicular on which to postpone:
1/10 KT1VR + 0.5 (15.3: 10) + 0.5 ≈ 2 cm
Put 2.
14 Connect BP and CT3 with a straight line. Measure and record.

In our case, this is 16.3. This segment is divided by 3.
BP KT3: 3 16.3: 3 = 5.4 cm

Set aside the obtained value from BP along a segment down. Put 5.4.
From 5.4 restore the perpendicular on which to postpone:
1/10 KT3VR + 0.5 (16.3: 10) + 0.5 ≈ 2.1 cm
Put 2.1.
15 Build the sleeve over through the points:

33 → CT3 → 2.1 → BP → 2 → CT1 → 5.8
If necessary, the BP point can be raised by 0.5 - 1 cm for decoration
okata with a more beautiful line.
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BUILDING A SLEEVE
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RESULT
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Page 26 Memo. CUT TO THE SYSTEM 10 MEASURES
NETWORK CONSTRUCTION: It is necessary to determine the length of the sprout.
From O - put down the measurement of DS.

Sprout length = Sprout width + 1
Distance to the hip line:
The length of the chest tuck is determined by the formula:
For low growth - 17 cm;
For average height - 18-19 cm; Mercury WB - sprout length
For tall - 19-22 cm.
Determine the direction of the shoulder line.
Distance to the chest line:
Connect neckline point
1/6 exhaust + 4 c 2 (tilt of the back of the shoulder).
On the shoulder line from the center line of the chest, set aside
Mesh Width:
left 1 cm. Distance from 1 to a point
1/2 exhaust gas + Co neck width - measure and record.
1 connect to the top of the chest 26.7.
Back Width:
The shoulder inclination of the shelf = 4 cm (constant value).
1/2 cc + 1/3 co Set aside from the point of intersection of the shoulder line
with the middle line of the armhole down 4 cm. Put 4.
Armhole Width:
1/3 OR + 1/2 Co The rest of the shoulder shelves:
DP - a segment of the beginning of the shoulder

Shelf height:
Connect the ends of the shoulder back and shelves.
1/4 exhaust Divide in half.
From the received point, draw a vertical down.
Side seam location:
Put 3 cm on it - this is a constant value.
1/2 Width of the armhole From 3 draw an arbitrary horizontal line.
This is the line of the top of the okat of the sleeve.
BUILDING THE BACK:
The depth of the armhole is determined by:
Sprout width:
1/3 OR + Co
1/6 OR + 0.5
Draw armhole:
On the line of depth of the armhole from the middle of the armhole
The height of the sprout is determined by the formula:
put 1 cm to the side of the shelf. Restore from 1
1/3 Width of the sprout + 0.5 perpendicular up. Outline the armhole with a compass.
Hip calculations:
Back shoulder tilt:
1.5 cm - for a figure with straight shoulders; 1/2 RP - 1/2 OG
2 cm - for a standard figure;
2.5 cm - for a figure with sloping shoulders. Calculations at the waist:
Draw a line of the shoulder of the back:

1/2 exhaust - 1/2 OT
Connect 2.6 to 2 and extend per line
A segment equal to 1/2 the width of the armhole to lay off the line
back width 2 cm.
the width of the armhole on the line of depth of the armhole to the right.
Put 2x. Distance from 2.6 to 2x
This is the far right point of the sleeve.
measure and record.
The solution of the shoulder tuck is determined by the formula:

HOSE BUILDING:
Sleeve width is determined by the formula:
Shoulder length
minus the measure of shoulder length (Dp) OR + Co
Finding the first control point (CT1).
Tuck length is determined by the formula:
Set aside the width of the armhole up
Tuck solution x 3 so that to the armhole was 0.5 cm. Put CT1 on the armhole.
Finding a second control point (CT2).

Graphic alignment of the shoulder line
From the intersection of the line of the width of the back and the line
using the compass:
the depth of the armhole to hold the bisector to the armhole.
a) Measure the distance from the top of the tuck with a compass At the point of intersection with the armhole, put CT2.
to the end of the shoulder (2x). And from 2 to draw an arc up. From CT2 lower the perpendicular to the line of depth of the armhole.
b) With a compass, measure a distance equal to the measure of DP Put a.
And from the beginning of the shoulder draw a second arc. Measure the distance from a to the middle of the armhole (5.8).
c) Connect the beginning point of the shoulder with the intersection point of the arcs. Set aside the received segment from the leftmost point
Extend to this line both sides of the shoulder tuck. sleeves (33) to the right. Put a *.
BUILDING A RACK: Finding the third control point (CT3).
From point a * restore perpendicular up equal
Neck depth = neck width + 1 cm segment KT2a. Put CT3.
The distance from the center of the front to the center of the chest:
BP CT *: 3
1/2 CG 1/10 CT * BP + 0.5
Page 27
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Page 1

CUT TO THE SYSTEM 10 MEASURES

You will need:

When taking measurements, the figure should be in its natural position.

You need to consider a figure: how sloping or straight shoulders stooping

Carefully determine the waist line.

Choose the best fit for your figure:

WITH - freedom of fit (Co)

Co - 0 - for very slim or tight-fitting knitwear

Co - 1.5 - for small sizes

Co - 3 - for medium sizes

Co - 4,5 - for large sizes or for outerwear (coat)

BEFORE TAKING MEASURES, YOU NEED TO CAREFULLY

CUT TO THE SYSTEM 10 MEASURES

Osh - Neck circumference - measured at the base of the neck

Op - Arm circumference - measured by the fullest part of the arm at level

BEFORE TAKING MEASURES, YOU NEED TO CAREFULLY

CUT TO THE SYSTEM 10 MEASURES

Our measurements: Freedom to fit:

1 About - the location of the seventh cervical vertebra.

2 From O - put down the measurement of DS. In our case, DS = 40.

3 The distance to the hip line is delayed from 40 down.

For low growth - 17 cm;

CUT TO THE SYSTEM 10 MEASURES

4 The distance to the chest line is calculated by the formula:

In our case: (96: 6) + 4 = 20

five Through the obtained points we draw horizontal lines:

From O - the line of the sprout;

1/2 exhaust gas + Co

The width of our grid = (96: 2) + 3 = 51

7 After 51, draw a vertical line up and down.

8 The width of the back is determined by the formula:

In our case: (33: 2) + 1 = 17.5

CUT TO THE SYSTEM 10 MEASURES

nine The width of the armhole is determined by the formula:

10 The height of the shelf is determined by the formula:

In our case: 96: 4 = 24

11 Location of the side seam:

In our case: 11.5: 2 = 5.8

From 5.8 draw down the line of the side seam.

CUT TO THE SYSTEM 10 MEASURES

BUILDING THE BACK

1 The width of the sprout is determined by the formula:

In our case: (35: 6) + 0.5 = 6.3

2 The height of the sprout is determined by the formula:

1/3 Width of the sprout + 0.5

In our case: (6.3: 3) + 0.5 = 2.6

3 Back shoulder tilt:

1.5 cm - for a figure with straight shoulders;

4 Draw an auxiliary line of the shoulder of the back:

CUT TO THE SYSTEM 10 MEASURES

BUILDING THE BACK

6 The solution of the shoulder tuck is determined by the formula:

In our case: 14 - 12.5 = 1.5

If the tuck solution according to the formula is less than 2 cm

14.5 - 12.5 = 2 (tuck solution)

CUT TO THE SYSTEM 10 MEASURES

BUILDING THE BACK

7 Tuck length is determined by the formula:

In our case: 2 x3=6

nine Graphic alignment of the shoulder line with a compass:

a) Measure the distance from the top of the tuck (6)

b) With a compass, measure a distance equal to the measure of DP