DOC REF : TSP 2-5: Mandatory textile quality tests

DATE : 12/01/2017

REV NO : 8

TSP 2-5:
MANDATORY TEXTILE QUALITY
TESTS

HISTORIC OF THE DOCUMENT

REV NO DATE MODIFICATIONS BY
1 January 9th, 2015 Creation S.CAMISULI
2 June 23rd, 2015 Change of appearance test Method S.CAMISULI
3 August 10th, 2015 Adding standards and requirements on sheet 13 S.CAMISULI
4 November 12th, 2015 Change of package name, test and quotation S.CAMISULI
5 August 10th, 2016 Adding USA quality requirement S.CAMISULI
6 August 29th, 2016 Removing of LEAD exception on sheet 12 S.CAMISULI
7 September 07th, 2016 Removing of CADMIUM/PHTHALATE USA test on sheet 13 S.CAMISULI
Adding seam slippage test, formaldehyde even if there
8 January 12th, 2017 S.CAMISULI
OEKO TEX….

2
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

EUROPEAN QUALITY REQUIREMENTS .................................................................................. 4

I. SCOPE .......................................................................................................................... 4
II. LABELLING REQUIREMENTS for content.................................................................... 5
III. CHEMICAL REQUIREMENTS ...................................................................................... 6
IV. PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS ....................................................................................... 8
V. PACKAGES ................................................................................................................. 10
VI. LABORATORIES: ........................................................................................................ 11
VII. CONCLUSION ............................................................................................................. 11
USA QUALITY REQUIREMENTS ............................................................................................. 12
I. SCOPE ........................................................................................................................ 12
II. CHEMICAL REQUIMENTS ......................................................................................... 13
III. PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS ..................................................................................... 13
I. LABORATORIES: ........................................................................................................ 14
II. CONCLUSION ............................................................................................................. 14
CERTIFICATION FORM ............................................................................................................ 15

Pay attention, these tests are made within the context of auto control. This is the most popular tests but this is not all the
Authorities requirement. The full list is mentioned on our TSP1-3 TEXTILE QUALITY.
This manual is not for the textile childcare product. For textile childcare, follow the “TSP2-8 MANDATORY TEXTILE CHILDCARE
QUALITY TESTS”

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 EUROPEAN QUALITY REQUIREMENTS
I. SCOPE
The quality and safety of our product are essentials element to guaranty the success and popularity of our brand.
Moreover, authorities are increasing their inspections on our shops to control the conformity of the product sold.
Hence, with your support, we need to secure our Norms and Process so that we could guaranty quality and compliance of our
products, regardless to our fast evolution.

We have established ISO test packages. Note these tests are compulsory for each styles produced for Orchestra-Premaman
(new born, baby, boy, girl, maternity, textile accessories range). The cost of these tests shall be paid by suppliers. No exception will
be made or tolerated. The test has to be done on the full garment and on the PPS once you have got our ok production.

All the references must be tested but it can have some exception:

 All the garments parts must be tested without exception. It means main fabric, rib, body lining, sleeve lining, collar tape,
embroidery threads, ink for print, plastic button...

 We will accept no chemical tests (excepted PH and FORMALDEHYDE which have to be tested) if you can supply an Oeko
tex, Eco passport or Blue sign certification for each yarns, embroidery threads, fabric, ink for print, plastic accessories used. Take
care, you must proof the certified material was really used to make our garment. Therefore among with the Oeko Tex, Eco passport
or Blue Sign certificates, you have to provide to Orchestra-Premaman a certification form (see example of this form in sheet 15)
mentioning all relevant information on the garment. The certificate must be valid until shipment date. Specify the part concerned by
certificate on TRF.
Then, it has covered the right garment class. The class is defined like below:
KNIT: ≤ 2 YEARS
CLASS I
WOVEN: ≤ 3 YEARS
CLASS II DIRECT CONTACT WITH SKIN
CLASS III INDIRECT CONTACT WITH SKIN

Pay attention, for formaldehyde test the class is different. The 1st class includes 8 years due to USA requirements.

 For range between 2 to 10 years, please refer to class I ONLY.

 We keep on not asking for tests for the nominated metal accessories (zippers and metal trims).

 If you have 2 similar references with the same fabric (same content, same fabric supplier…), the exactly same color, same
accessories… We accept one report for both references but if there is only one difference as a different accessory or print… The
report has to mention all the references concerned by the tests.

Example:
1 - One legging and one tee-shirt on same color, same content, same fabric factory, exactly same print color but without
accessories = one report with the both references mentioned
2 - One legging and one tee-shirt on same color, same content, same fabric factory, but two different print = two report,
but one with full tests required and reference + other report for the print only (for example, no need colorfastness tests
for fabric)
3 - One legging and one tee-shirt on same color, same content, same fabric factory, same print but different weight = 2
reports with full tests

 Then, if you have one reference in several colors, we accept one report for the darker color and no report for the other color
(For example, basic styles)

 It’s better to send the bigger size of range for tests to reduce the sample quantity.

 Regarding number of samples to be sent to Labs, we advise you to first send a picture of the garment to the lab in order for
them to advise you the exact quantity of needed samples/material.

 If you have set with same fabric for top and bottom, it’s not necessary to do test for top + bottom. Only test for top or bottom and
not both, same if you have collar tape and chest pocket in same fabric. Specify the part concerned on TRF.

 Labs will commit on not charging more than agreed package prices unless getting a confirmation from you and/or
Orchestra (France or local Orchestra offices).

 Retesting can be done either on the fabric or garment based on the applicability of the test. We accept fabric for retest in case
the test can be done in fabric. Wherever retest need to be done in garment form like stability, it has request garment. Specify the
old report in the TRF

The supplier responsibility will be committed in case of non-conformity detection.

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 II. LABELLING REQUIREMENTS for content
(Regulation EU 1006/2011)

Goods shall meet the European standards in force concerning the compositions and labelling of goods.
Take care, the content should comply with the relevant state laws and regulations and provisions. It should be
simple and exact.

For each packages, you must tests the fiber composition for the full garment and not only on the fabric. Labs
will be able to confirm the right content that you will have to use on the labels.

Test item Method Requirement

Fiber content

Contains only one kind of fiber Fiber content tolerance is 0

PRODUCT OR A PART OF Contains 2 or more kinds of Fiber content tolerance for each
THE PRODUCT fibers fiber labeled is 3%

Contains 2 or more kinds of

Regulation The tolerance of this fiber is 30%
fibers (for a fiber <15%; filling
EU 1006/2011 of nominal value
<30%

Can be labeled as
FIBER CONTENT Equal or less than 0.5%
“CONTAINING TRACE OF XX”

FILLING / Tolerance is 10%

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 III. CHEMICAL REQUIREMENTS
The supplier commits to organize the necessary process of production and control to guarantee the absence of
these substances on our products. The supplier is responsible for the respect of rules by its own manufacturers.

II III
I direct indirect
Test item Method
Baby contact contact
with skin with skin
Azo dyes

4-Aminodiphenyl/xenylamine/Biphenyl-4-ylamine 92-67-1

Benzidine 92-87-5

4-Chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2

2-Naphthylamine 91-59-8
o-aminoazotoluene/ 4-o-tolylazo-o-toluidine/4-amino-2’,
97-56-3
3-dimethylazobenzene
2-Amino-4-nitrotoluol/5-nitro-o-toluidine 99-55-8

p-Chloranilin/4-chloroaniline 106-47-8

2.4-Diaminoanisol/4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine 615-05-4

4.4'-Diaminodiphenylmethane/4,4-methylenedianiline 101-77-9
3.3'-Dichlorobenzidine/3,3’dichlorobiphenyl-4,4’-
91-94-1
ylenediamine
3.3'-Dimethoxybenzidine/o-dianisidine 119-90-4
TEXTILE: EN
3.3'-Dimethylbenzidine/4,4’-bi-o-toluidine 119-93-7 14 362-1 + 3/
LEATHER: 20 mg/kg
3.3'-Dimethyl-4.4'-diaminodipenylmethane/4,4’- EN 17 234-1
838-88-0
methylenedi-o-toluidine +2
p-cresidin/6-methoxy-m-toluidine 120-71-8
4,4’-Methylene-bis-(2-chloro-aniline)/2,2’-dichloro-
101-14-4
4,4’methylene-dianiline
4.4'-Oxydianiline 101-80-4

o-Toluidine/2-aminotoluene 95-53-4

4,4’-Thiodianiline 139-65-1

2,4-Toluylendiamine/4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine 95-80-7

2.4.5-Trimethylaniline 137-17-7

4-Aminoazobezene 60-09-3

o-Anisidine/2-Methoxyaniline 90-04-0

2,4-Xylidine 95-68-1

2,6-Xylidine 87-62-7

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 II III
I direct indirect
Test item Method
Baby contact contact
with skin with skin
Cadmium (%)

BS EN
Cd (Cadmium) 0.004
1122:2001

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) (mg/kg)

Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) 50-32-8

Benzo[e]pyrene (BeP) 192-79-2

Benzo[a]anthracene (BaA) 56-55-3

Chrysen (CHR) 218-01-9

ZEK 01.4-08 0.5 1.0
Benzo[b]fluoranthene (BbFA) 205-99-2

Benzo[j]fluoranthene (BjFA) 205-82-3

Benzo[k]fluoranthene (BkFA) 207-08-9

Dibenzo[a,h]anthracene (DBAhA) 53-70-3

Perfluoro-octane sulfonates (µg/m²)
CEN/TS
Perfluoro-octane sulfonates (PFOS) 1
15968
Ph
NF EN ISO
PH 4.0-7.5 4.0-8.5 4.0-9.0
3071-2006
Phthalates (%)
BBP, DBP, DEHP, DMEP, DIHP, DHNUP, DCHP, DHxP, ISO
0.1
DIBP, DIDP, DIHxP, DINP, DHP, DNOP, DPP, Total 14389:2014
Organotin compounds (ppm)

Tributyl tin (TBT) 0.5 1.0

Triphenyl tin (TPhT) 0.5 1.0

NF EN ISO
17353
Dibutyl tin (DBT) 1.0 2.0

Dioctyl tin (DOT) 1.0 2.0

> 8 Years > 8 Years

direct indirect
Test item Method ≤ 8 Years
contact contact
with skin with skin
Formaldehyde (mg/kg)
TEXTILE:
ISO14184-
Formaldehyde 1:2011/ ND (16) 75 300
LEATHER:
ISO 17226-1

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 IV. PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS
Orchestra-Premaman guarantees a quality level to its customers.
Therefore, we request some physical tests to control this grade:

Test item Method WOVEN KNIT

Appearance after 3 washing including dimensional stability, spirality and colorfastness to washing
Domestic washing method according
Appearance after washing to the care label: Satisfactory
 Use of a domestic washing
machine, e.g. Miele (no
Dimensional stability after Wascator) when the care
instruction is : washing machine ± 3% ± 5%
washing
 Detergent: SKIP with optical
brightener agent
TOP: ± 5%
Spirality after washing  Quantity of detergent: 40 ± 2%
BOTTOM: ± 3%
grs/powder detergent
 Load capacity of washing
Colourfastness to washing machine: 3 kg (mix 4
synthetic/cotton)

This test is used to evaluate the appearance of garments after 3rd washing. Evaluation is performed by rating
the appearance of specimen in comparison with initial sample. It is based on the visual appearance.
This test should respect the care instruction defined by the supplier.
Below are some part checked:
 Change and staining of all prints
 Print breakage
 Embroideries quality
 Puckering
 Stripe bias
 Seam aspects
 Side seam spirality
 Fuzziness

WARNING:
How to avoid color change after a domestic washing?
-home washing powders contain systematically optical agents (brightener) which attack natural yellow color (ecru,
unbleached) of the fiber. This affects the color of the fabric-garment which can change after a domestic washing. To
avoid this situation, fabric supplier has to add, before dying, optical brightener to saturate the raw material. Then, it
will be dyed to the right color (dyeing recipe should change). Consequence is during a domestic washing of a final
client, optical agents of the washing detergent won’t have any effect on the color. If the color is well fixed, it won’t
change. It is also important to confirm that use of direct dyes is totally banned, due to their poor fastness.

Test item Method WOVEN KNIT

Seam slippage

≤ 220g/m² - 60N = 6mm

Seam slippage NF EN ISO 13936-1 N/A
> 220g/m² - 120N = 6mm

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 II III
I
Test item Method direct contact with indirect contact
Baby
skin with skin

Colorfastness to saliva DIN 53160-1 4 N/A

Waterproofness (mmH2O)

Fabric (Ski) 1 500

EN 20811
Fabric (Parka) 700

UV protection properties (UPF)

UV protection properties NF EN 13758-1 & 2 + A1 50+

A – Children’s C – Babies’
B – Children’s
Test item Method nightwear nightwear
pyjama
(not pyjama) (≤ 3 months)
Flammability (Burning behaviour of children’s nightwear)
1) No surface
1) No surface flash flash
2) 3rd marker 2) 3rd marker
Flammability BS EN ISO 14878:2007 thread (520 mm) thread (520 N/A
not severed in mm) not
less than 15s severed in less
than 10s

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 V. PACKAGES

TEXTILE SWIMWEAR
CLASS
ACCESSORIES (summer season)
WOVEN NON COATED COATED SKI
TESTS STANDARD UNITY KNITTED SWEATER WOVEN TOP NIGHT CLOTHES UNDERWEAR
BOTTOM OUTERWEAR OUTERWEAR Ex:Sock, thigh, scarf, (winter season)
I II III glove, beach towel, Non - antiv UV anti UV
hat

FIBER CONTENT REGULATION (EU) 1007/2011 % SINGLE: 0% - BLEND: 3% X X X X X X X X X X X X

PHTHALATES * ISO 14389 % 0,1 X X X X

CADMIUM * BS EN 1122 % 0,004 X X X X X

TEXTILE: EN 14362-1, -3
AZO DYES * mg/kg 20 X X X X X X X X X X X X
LEATHER: EN 17234-1, -2
CHEMICAL REQUIREMENT

> 8 Years direct > 8 Years indirect

TEXTILE: ISO 14184-1
FORMALDEHYDE mg/kg ≤ 8 Years: ND (16) contact with skin: contact with skin: X X X X X X X X X X X X
LEATHER: ISO 17226-1
75 300

PH ISO 3071 / 4,0-7,5 4,0-8,5 4,0-9,0 X X X X X X X X X X X X

PFOS CEN/TS 15968 µg/m² 1 X

TBT, TPhT: 0,5 TBT, TPhT: 1,0

ORGANOSTANNIC & DIBULTIN (DBT) COMPOUNDS * NF EN ISO 17353 mg/kg X X X X X X X X X X X X
DBT, DOT: 1,0 DBT, DOT: 2,0

POLYCYCLIC AROMATIC HYDROCARBONS (PAHs) * ZEK 01.4-08 mg/kg 0,5 1,0 X X X X X X X X X X X X

STABILITE: woven ±3% - knit ±5%

APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING (3 WASHING CYCLES) House method / SPIRALITY: woven ±2% - knit (top) ±5%, (bottom) ±3% X X X X X X X X X X
COLORFASTNESS TO WASHING: 4

COLOUR FASTNESS TO SALIVA (JUST FOR CAT A - BABY) DIN 53160-1 / 4 N/A X X X X X X
PHYSICAL REQUIREMENT

NF EN 13758- 1& 2 +A 1 Avril

UV PROTECTION PROPERTIES / UPF 50+ X
2007

Ski: 1500
WATERPROOFNESS (fabric) EN 20811 mmH2O X
Parka: 700

≤ 220g/m² - 60N = 6mm

SEAM SLIPPAGE NF EN ISO 13936-1 / X
> 220g/m² - 120N = 6mm

FLAMMABILITY * BS EN ISO 14878 / CHECK MANUAL ON SHEET 9 X*

* Not applicable for maternity product

* Not required for part with oeko tex certificate

Phthalates: paints, coating, plastisol inks, flexible plastics, fake leathers

Cadmium: plastics, coating + metal for jewelry
Organotin: print, textile fabrics and leather
PAHs: plasic and other synthetic materials (PU/PVC/RUBBER…) + Coating/Printing + soft plastic
PFOS: water, oil or oil repellence

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 VI. LABORATORIES:

For the tests listed above (Chemical and physical tests), Orchestra-Premaman has negotiated cost with
3 laboratories which have all the necessary accreditations to perform the requested analysis. (SGS, Intertek
and TUV Rheinland). The use of these laboratories is mandatory.
The request will be done by the “technical request form” and attached with samples.
Be careful, if you’re using some Oeko tex certified materials, you have to clearly advise it on request
form and therefore not to ask for full package but individual test cancelling the one related to the certified
trim.

VII. CONCLUSION

The tests are mandatory. You must follow this process.

The tests are charged to supplier.
These tests don’t concern the accessories like belt, bag… but these items must respect the European
standard and we might ask you for some random test reports.

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 USA QUALITY REQUIREMENTS
I. SCOPE

We have established USA tests. Note these tests are compulsory for children’s product. The children’s product is defined
as consumer product designed or intended primarily for children 12 years of age or younger.
The tests are applicable for all our garments and textile accessories except nightwear with long sleeve and pants, maternity
product...
The cost of these tests shall be paid by Orchestra.
The test has to be done on the full garment and on the PPS once you have got our ok production.

All the references must be tested but it can have some exception:

 If you have 2 references with the same fabric (same content, same fabric supplier…), the exactly same color, same
accessories… We accept one report for both references but if there is only one difference as a different accessory or print…
The report has to mention all the references concerned by the tests.

Example:
1 - One legging and one tee-shirt on same color, same content, same fabric factory, exactly same print color but
without accessories = one report with the both references mentioned
2 - One legging and one tee-shirt on same color, same content, same fabric factory, but two different print = two
report, but one with full tests required and reference + other report for the print only (for example, no need
colorfastness tests for fabric)
3 - One legging and one tee-shirt on same color, same content, same fabric factory, same print but different weight
= 2 reports with full tests

 Then, if you have one reference in several colors, we accept one report for the darker color and no report for the other
color (For example, basic styles)

 It’s better to send the bigger size of range for tests to reduce the sample quantity but don’t forget to note the size range on
request form to select the right requirement.

 Regarding number of samples to be sent to Labs, we advise you to first send a picture of the garment to the lab in order
for them to advise you the exact quantity of needed samples/material.

 If you have set with same fabric for top and bottom, it’s not necessary to do test for top + bottom. Only test for top or bottom
and not both, same if you have collar tape and chest pocket in same fabric. Specify the part concern on TRF.

 If retest is required, it is charged to the supplier. Retesting can be done either on the fabric or garment based on the
applicability of the test. We accept fabric for retest in case the test can be done in fabric. Specify the old report in the TRF

 For USA, a Certificate of Compliance (CoC) must be done for each reference ship to USA. The CoC is delivered by Lab
but the lab need information from supplier like: date of manufacturing (the end of production), place of manufacturing… The
supplier has to mention this information directly on the TRF. The lab don’t make the tests without the information for CoC.

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 II. CHEMICAL REQUIMENTS

Test Item Regulations/ citations Requirements

Consumer Product Safety

Improvement Act of 2008,
Lead content of Shall not contain lead or lead compounds in which the lead
CA Proposition 65
Paint, Surface content is in excess of 90 ppm (0.009% by the weight of the
Settlements, Washington
Coatings total content)
State CSPA
CPSC-CH-E1003-09.1

Any accessible part, before and after use and abuse testing,
Consumer Product Safety
on items intended for children ages 12 and under shall not
Improvement Act of 2008,
contain lead more than 0.01% weight of the total content
CA Proposition 65
Lead Content of (100 ppm)
Settlements, WA CSPA,
Accessible
Non-metal:
Component Part Exempt lead testing for CPSC substrate materials listed in
CPSC-CH-E1002-08.3
§1500.91 exemption list
Metal:
CPSC-CH-E1001-08.3
Lead in PVC <30 ppm

III. PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS

Test Item Regulations/ citations Requirements

Flammability Test for

16 CFR 1610
General Clothing
(Test non-exempt fabrics Class I
(not applicable to
only)
children's sleepwear)

The rate of burning shall not exceed 1.2 in./sec as judged by

Flammability of vinyl
16 CFR 1611 the average of five determinations lengthwise and five
film
determinations transverse to the direction of processing.

Sharp Points and Products intended for children under 8 years of age shall not
Sharp CPSC 16 CFR 1500.48 & 49 have accessible, potentially hazardous sharp points and edges
Edges before or after use and abuse testing.

Products intended for children under 36 months of age shall

not include removable, liberated components, or fragments of
Small Parts CPSC 16 CFR 1501
products after use and abuse that are small enough (without
being compressed) to fit entirely within the small parts cylinder.

 For 18 months and younger – 2 in. * lbs for 10 sec. in

clockwise/anticlockwise direction.
Abuse tests - Torque  For age range from 18-36 months – 3.0 in. * lbs for 10 sec.
16 CFR 1500.51-53 Part E
Test in clockwise/anticlockwise direction.
 For age range from 36-96 months – 4.0 in. * lbs for 10 sec.
in clockwise/anticlockwise direction.

Abuse tests -Tension  For 18 months and younger – 10 lbs for 10 sec.
16 CFR 1500.51-53 Part F
Test  For age range from 18 to 96 months – 15 lbs for 10 sec.

13
 I. LABORATORIES:

For the tests listed above, Orchestra-Premaman has negotiated cost with TWO laboratories which have
all the necessary accreditations to perform the requested analysis. It is INTERTEK and SGS. The use of this
laboratory is mandatory. Then, pay attention, the prices were not negotiated on all the countries. So, select a
lab on a country with the USA prices negotiated.
The request will be done by the “USA technical request form” and attached with samples.

II. CONCLUSION

The USA tests are mandatory. You must follow this process.
The tests are charged to Orchestra.
These tests don’t concern the garment like nightwear with long sleeve and pants, maternity items…

14
 CERTIFICATION FORM

CERTIFICATION FORM PHOTO

This frame is to be filled in by SUPPLIER

SUPPLIER NAME MANUFACTURER NAME UVC CODE STYLE NAME THEME COLOR PO NUMBER

MAIN FABRIC COUNTRY of Dyeing/ Printing / Finishing :

LINING COUNTRY of Dyeing/ Printing / Finishing :
FULL GARMENT MADE IN / COUNTRY OF ORIGIN :

COMPONENTS DETAILS
Oeko-Tex (*) or test report
MAJOR COMPONENTS Full NAME of supplier Full ADDRESS of supplier Composition
number
MAIN FABRIC (**)
CONTRAST FABRIC (**)
LINING 1 (**)
LINING 2 (**)
DYEING 1 - PRINTING HOUSE
DYEING 2 - PRINTING HOUSE

MINOR COMPONENTS (where Oeko-Tex (*) or test report

Full NAME of supplier Country of dyeing/printing/finishing Composition
applicable) (***) number
Appliques
Artificial Fur
Badges
Belt
Buttons
Elastic
Embroidery thread
Eyelets
Hooks and eyes
Interlining
Lace
Placed prints
PU tape
Rivets
Sequins
Sewing thread
Smock elastic
Snaps
Stoppers & Toggles
Strass
Tapes, Drawstrings
Trimmings
Velcro
Wadding / Padding
Zipper
Any other relevant component :
Labels

Date filled out by SUPPLIER : Supplier's Signature + Stamp:

(*) If the component is Oeko-Tex certified, mark the oeko tex number and attach a copy of the Certificate.
(**) If more than 1 fabric/lining in 1 garment please use extra row and specify part of garment
(***) If other component than minor components list, please use extra row and specify additionnal component

15